It’s officially July, and according to the weather forecast, it’s going to be a hot one.

This year’s July garden jobs are centred around keeping plants, grass and wildlife hydrated, with other supportive measures that ensure healthy, productive growth. There’s a focus on keeping our gardens cool in heatwaves, too – and thankfully, there are more than a few ways to do that.

Here are the top jobs to do in the garden in July to ensure your plants thrive in hot, dry weather.

What you'll need

1. Keep on top of watering

One of the most important July garden jobs is the most obvious one: watering, watering, and more watering. You’ll need to be extra attentive when it comes to watering container plants in July.

‘Water new and young plants heavily and regularly throughout July to encourage the formation of deep and strong roots,’ says garden expert Sarah Raven. ‘If plants are showing signs of mildew (especially calendulas, courgettes, and roses), water well during dry spells.’

Sarah also recommends mulching when the soil is wet to conserve moisture. RocketGro Peat-Free Magic Mulch is highly rated on Amazon, and it works to suppress weeds and enrich the soil with nutrients, too.

For established, hardier plants and lawns, there isn’t quite so much urgency – and if your area is affected by a hosepipe ban this July, you’ll need to be extra careful about how you use water.

‘Containers, greenhouses and some vegetables can’t be allowed to dry out, but established plants and lawns rarely suffer lasting damage from drought, and they have their own mechanisms to cope with water shortages,’ says Topher Martyn, head gardener at Syon Park.

2. Support tall perennials

Watering isn’t the only way you can support plants in July – you’ll also need to keep an eye on tall or heavy flowering perennials like dahlias and chrysanthemums and find the best plant supports for them.

‘Ensure your perennials are propped up with stakes as by the time dahlias and chrysanthemums are at their peak height, autumn wind and rain will be on the way,’ says Sarah. ‘Dahlias are best supported in a triangle of canes, while chrysanthemums perform best when tied in and supported.’

I'm ordering these bamboo canes for my tomato plants, but they're perfect for the likes of dahlias and other tall flowering perennials, too.

3. Look out for wildlife

Wildlife needs a helping hand in hot weather, too, and simple additions like a bird bath (I’ve got my eye on this Home Bird Bath from Argos) can make a huge difference to visiting birds, mammals and insects.

‘If you have a bird bath in your garden, keep it topped up with fresh water and make sure to clean it whenever it starts looking grubby,’ says Nigel Lawton, plant buyer at Dobbies Garden Centres.

It’s also worth knowing what to feed birds in the summer, since they’ll still be feeding their young this month.

‘While food sources are less scarce for birds in summer, supplementary feeding is always necessary,’ says gardening and wildlife expert James Ewens from Green Feathers.

‘It’s one of the busiest and most demanding stages of their lifecycle, so responsible feeding is essential. Just keep away from foods that spoil quickly in heat, ensure you regularly clean your bird feeders, and use hanging feeders rather than flat ones.’

James recommends nutrient-rich foods that birds can easily digest, like mealworms (these Pet Ting premium dried mealworms are Amazon's Choice). There are certain foods you should never feed birds, though, like bread and kitchen scrap.

4. Plant drought-tolerant plants

There’s a long list of things you can plant in July, but with more heatwaves on the way this month, it’s worth looking at drought-tolerant plants as a starting point. They’re more likely to survive the heat and continue on as normal in dry weather.

‘There are many ways that we can all ensure we are being considerate of the environment whilst also maintaining the beauty, colour, and joy of our outside havens.,’ says Sarah. ‘One of the simplest things you can do is to introduce drought-tolerant plants to keep your garden looking lively and vibrant without the need for excessive watering.’

Sarah recommends the likes of lavender, pelargoniums and verbena for a beautiful, climate-resilient garden. I've got my eye on purple top verbena, which you can buy from Crocus. If you’re a vegetable grower, there are even drought-tolerant vegetables that thrive in hot weather.

5. Deadhead plants

Deadheading is a simple skill that’ll grant you longer flowering displays and healthier plants – and July is the prime time to do it.

‘Regularly deadhead your bedding, container, and basket plants, and any other repeat-flowering perennials to enjoy a longer display of blooms in your garden,’ says Nigel from Dobbies Garden Centres. ‘This is also a great way to keep your garden looking great during the summer months, as it gets rid of any wilted or dying flower heads to make way for new ones.’

A simple pair of garden snips like these Spear & Jackson Garden Snips from Amazon is ideal for this July garden job.

6. Cut back long-flowering perennials

Besides deadheading, many long-flowering perennials benefit from being cut right back in July. It might sound counterproductive, but it’ll actually encourage the plants to produce a second round of blooms.

‘Most long-flowering perennials such as Geranium pyrenaicum 'Bill Wallis' and Geranium x johnsonii 'Johnson's Blue' finish blooming in summer,’ explains Sarah Raven. ‘With that in mind, cut them right to the ground and water generously to encourage a second flush of flowers and foliage.’

7. Feed fruiting and flowering plants

July is a productive month in the garden, since flowering plants are often at their peak and fruits and vegetables are busy developing harvests. To get the most out of them, though, it’s worth feeding your plants.

‘Your flowers may benefit from a liquid feed, particularly your container plants, roses, and our outdoor Plant of the Month, dahlias,’ says Nigel from Dobbies Garden Centre.

Roses are the ideal candidate for July feeding, actually, and Sarah Raven advises us to ‘Feed roses after the first flush of flowers to encourage more. Use a rose food or straightforward, well-rotted manure. Intersperse rose beds with other plants such as nepetas and salvias to help reduce the spread of disease like black spot.’

Companion planting ideas are a staple in my garden – they really can keep pests at bay during the hotter months of the year, and if this year's heatwaves are anything to go by, it's better to get defences in place now.

8. Weed beds, borders and lawns

If your lawn, beds or borders are rampant with weeds right now, you can thank the warmer weather.

Thankfully, there are plenty of ways to get rid of weeds fast, or even recover a lawn from weeds if they’ve already taken hold of your garden. My lawn was covered in dandelions, but GARDENA's weed puller, which you can order from B&Q, has been helping me keep on top of things (at speed!).

‘Weeds thrive in dry, warm weather, so continue hoeing any weeds around your beds or vegetable patches in dry weather, as this gives you the best chance of not allowing them to re-root,’ says Nigel from Dobbies Garden Centres.

Add these July garden jobs to your list to keep your garden healthy and productive in whatever heatwave the weather next throws at us!

July can be a precarious time for UK gardens, especially when we’re flocked with heatwaves like the ones we’ve seen so far this summer. Lawns can bear the brunt of the hot weather – which is why it’s wise to have a few July lawn care tips up your sleeve.

It’s arguably one of the most pivotal months in the lawn care calendar, since grass is more vulnerable to heat stress, drought and mower damage right now. You’ll also need to know the best way (and time) to water a lawn, along with other lawn care tips that could mean the difference between a yellow lawn and a lush green one.

I’ve rounded up the most important July lawn care tips, with tips from the experts, to help you keep your lawn in shape (or give it a well-needed boost!).

What you'll need

1. Keep it hydrated

Like the other plants in our garden, our lawns become extra thirsty during hot weather – which is why deep watering is the July lawn care tip experts swear by.

‘Watering matters, especially with another heatwave on the way,’ says Chris McIlroy, lawn expert at The Grass People. ‘Aim for around one inch of water on your lawn per week, ideally in one or two deep soakings rather than light sprinkles, to encourage deep roots.’

It’s worth investing in a sprinkler like this Hozelock Rectangular Oscillating Sprinkler from Argos that provides even lawn coverage up to 220 square metres (and saves you watering the entire thing yourself!)

There’s also the question of whether or not you should water your grass in the sun, and many experts advise waiting for the cooler parts of the day.

‘Watering in the morning is best so that the moisture doesn’t evaporate in the midday heat,’ says Lawnsmith's grass expert, Jonathan Davis.

2. Consider a wetting agent

Ever heard of a wetting agent? It’s basically something you put on a lawn to make water wetter. Yep – really!

In a nutshell, wetting agents can be gamechangers for keeping a lawn hydrated in hot weather. They're a recommendation of Jonathan's.

‘A wetting agent is a chemical that reduces surface tension of water,’ he explains. ‘When applied to soil, it helps rain and water penetrate the turf and spread more efficiently.’

It’s also a brilliant way to make every drop count if your region is affected by a hosepipe ban this July.

‘I’d recommend using a wetting agent to prepare your lawn for dry, summer conditions, supporting its hydration ahead of warmer weather,’ advises Jonathan.

Apparently, a wetting agent can be used to revive a dry lawn, too. You can order a Garden Lawncare Guy wetting agent from Amazon.

3. Adjust your mowing schedule

It’s easy to assume that the warmer weather will have our grass growing quicker than usual, and during periods of heavy rainfall, that’s true.

During a heatwave, though, growth is likely to slow right down – so you’ll need to adjust your mowing schedule accordingly.

‘Approaching July, conditions may become drier, slowing grass growth, so mow at least once every two weeks and raise the mower height,’ says Jonathan.

It’s also important to know how to mow a lawn in hot, dry weather, and many experts recommend the one-third rule, which means never cutting more than one third of the length of the grass at a time. Longer grass creates more shade, which means less evaporation.

Robot lawn mowers are ideal for keeping on top of mowing little and often, and this approach is gentler on the grass. Machines like the Eufy E15 Robot Lawn Mower can be set on a schedule, allowing them to cut your grass at specific times, even when you're away.

4. Leave grass clippings on your lawn

One of the best ways to reuse grass clippings in the garden? Leave them on your lawn. It's more productive than it sounds!

'If you’re mowing the lawn regularly, up to once a week, then your grass clippings will be short enough to leave them on the lawn to break down and decompose,' says Michael Holden, lawn guru and gardening expert at Flymo.

'This adds natural nitrogen-rich fertiliser to your lawn without costing you a penny and will keep your lawn a luscious, vibrant green. Plus, who doesn’t love that freshly mown grass smell that will be coming from your garden?'

That's why robot lawn mowers than be healthier for a lawn than traditional lawn mowers – they often cut tiny amounts of grass at a time and dispense the fine clippings back onto the lawn. I've actually noticed that my lawn is a lot greener since using the Segway Navimow i208 LiDAR Robot Lawn Mower (which you can order from Amazon).

5. Aerate your lawn

If your lawn is compacted like mine, it’s likely that your grass is struggling more than the average healthier lawn for water and nutrients. Left unchecked, this can lead to yellow, patchy grass – but thankfully, July is the ideal time to learn how to aerate your lawn.

'Getting hands-on to aerate the lawn will improve grass growth, ensuring a luscious, thriving lawn,' explains Michael from Flymo.

‘Loosening the soil allows oxygen and microbes to circulate around the grass roots, promoting growth. Grab a standard garden fork to create small holes of around 2cm deep in your soil, focusing specifically on compact areas.’

You could even buy a specialised aerating tool like this Walensee Lawn Aerator Tool from Amazon.

6. Feed with caution

If you’re wondering what to put on your lawn in summer, it very much depends on the weather – and since the forecast has another heatwave in store, you’ll need to be extra careful this July.

‘You can feed your lawn in July, but avoid any heatwave or drought conditions and look out for signs of stress,’ warns Chris from The Grass People. ‘Fertiliser can burn grass if applied incorrectly. Opt for a summer lawn feed specifically designed for summer use rather than a high-nitrogen spring formula.’

Chris also recommends applying fertiliser to your lawn before or after so that the soil has some moisture, as opposed to putting it on dry turf that’s more prone to fertiliser scorch. Seaweed fertilisers like The Shropshire Seaweed Company Organic Seaweed from Amazon are generally a safe bet for lush, green grass.

Keep these July lawn care tips to hand to protect and nourish your lawn, regardless of what the weather throws at it!

Garden experts have revealed five ways to heatproof a garden, to ensure your plants survive when temperatures soar.

The most recent heatwave and the promise of a July one have left many of us looking for ways to cool our gardens. From garden shade ideas to opting for drought-resistant plants, there are plenty of ways to help support your outdoor space during periods of extreme heat.

But considering meteorologists expect extreme heat to become more frequent in future summers, perhaps it is time to stop looking at the things people with cool gardens always have and start looking at the preventive measures to help a garden survive in the first place.

1. Increase shade

One of the most important things you can do to effectively heatproof a garden is to learn how to shade a garden. It can help cool a garden as well as protect you and your plants from harmful UV rays. This shade can come in the form of a parasol, pergola ideas or even natural shade from plants and trees.

‘Shade is one of the most effective ways to lower the ambient temperature in your garden. A mature tree can reduce the temperature beneath its canopy by up to 10C. Pergolas and shade sails can protect soil from baking and plants from scorching,’ says Jonathan Davis, a grass expert at Lawnsmith.

‘Leaving grass a little higher than usual can create shade for the soil at its base, helping it to retain moisture for longer. Even creating temporary shade structures before a heatwave lands can protect your plants and grass from heat damage.’

2. Harvest rainwater

If you haven’t already thought about installing a water butt, you definitely should be. Fantastic for recycling rainwater, they really come into their own during a hosepipe ban or period of extended drought. You can pick up a well-reviewed water butt starter kit for £72.99 at B&Q.

‘Relying on mains water during a heatwave can often be restricted by hosepipe bans. Adding dedicated water butts into your garden is one of the easiest ways to secure a free, independent water supply. People often underestimate how much water a single downpipe can collect; a brief summer downpour on a decent-sized roof can fill a standard water butt in very little time,’ says Noah Mabey, Senior Gardener at Thornbridge Hall and Horticultural Advisor to Platinum Spas.

‘Look beyond just the main house. You can connect a water butt via a rainwater diverter kit to the downpipe of any roof structure on your property. This might be a greenhouse, garden shed or garage.

‘To make this harvested water go as far as possible, step away from the hosepipe, which encourages overwatering. Fill a traditional watering can directly from the butt tap. This forces you to be more targeted, ensuring you can see exactly how much water is going directly to the root area of specific plants.’

3. Swap your lawn your something tougher

Keeping a perfectly manicured lawn is difficult in hot weather, and a far more sustainable option is to opt for something a little less polished…

‘Traditional grass can struggle in prolonged heat. You could consider swapping it out or introducing areas of clover or wildflowers, which are much more resilient in warm weather. These alternatives need far less water, stay greener for longer and support pollinators - all while reducing maintenance,’ says Jonathan.

At Ideal Home, we love a creeping thyme lawn because not only is it a brilliant low-maintenance choice, but it will fill your garden with a stunning purple hue, too.

4. Assess your watering routine

In hot weather, it's best to water your garden in the morning when the plants have the best chance of absorbing the water before it evaporates. However, you shouldn’t be tempted to overwater your garden when it gets hot.

‘Light, daily watering can be counterproductive as it only wets the top few millimetres of soil, which then evaporates quickly and can cause plant roots to grow upward toward the surface. This makes them more vulnerable to drought,’ says Noah.

‘Plants desperately need air pockets in the soil to maintain healthy roots; if the soil is constantly soaking wet, the roots will suffocate and rot.

‘Don't just look at a dry surface layer and assume a plant is desperate. Poke your finger a few inches deep into the soil to check the actual moisture levels. Be aware that many plants naturally look a bit wilted or floppy during the absolute hottest part of the day as a defence mechanism to reduce transpiration, but they will perk right back up by evening once the sun drops.’

5. Add mulch to plants

Consider mulch (£13, B&Q) your plant’s very own suncream. Mulching has so many benefits for plants, and temperature control is one huge benefit.

‘If a severe heatwave is on its way, adding a layer of organic mulch can insulate your plants and grass. It shields soil from the direct sun, reduces evaporation and keeps roots cooler. Mulched beds can retain up to 70% more moisture, meaning plants and lawns stay hydrated for longer,’ says Jonathan.

‘Mulch is not suitable to be left on lawns and some plants for a long time. It can provide protection from heat, but you don’t want to permanently block sunlight, nutrients and oxygen reaching roots, so remove once heat has subsided.’

What you need

Going forward, gardeners will need to consider how ‘heatproof’ their gardens are if they want them to thrive. These five practical steps are easy measures you can begin to implement now that will make a huge difference in the future.

It's really important to prune certain plants at the right time of year, and July is one of those key months.

Pruning early-flowering shrubs helps to keep them healthy and growing well. It prevents disease, encourages good growth and more flowering – depending on what your plant is – and helps to keep the plant in the right shape.

Our experts give us the lowdown on the top five varieties to prune this month and why.

1. Weigela

Weigela is a favourite amongst those who want to attract as many pollinators as possible – bees and butterflies love it!

Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation, explains, 'Weigela is an easy-to-grow deciduous shrub whose prolific tubular, bell-shaped flowers appear from late spring to early summer and are rich in nectar.'

'In order to produce a dense, colourful display of flowers in the following year, it’s important that you prune Weigela as soon as it finishes flowering. Pruning later in the year means you risk getting fewer blooms or none at all as it sets its flower buds for the following year on the previous season's growth.'

Cut back the stems as soon as the flowers start to fade. 'Use a sharp pair of bypass secateurs to cut them back to a healthy node or side stem further down the stem. At the same time, remove any damaged, diseased, or crossing stems to improve airflow through the plant,' advises Lucie.

If you like the idea of weigela, then have a look at this lovely All Summer Peach variety with its apricot coloured flowers, £25.99 for a two-litre pot, Crocus. For a richer colour scheme, we like Thompson & Morgan's Tower of Flowers Cherry, currently £12.99 for a 9cm pot.

2. Sweet peas

A variety you might not think of 'pruning' is sweet peas. It's more of a picking and deadheading activity, but one that's essential at this time of year.

'The secret to sweet peas is simple: the more you pick, the more they grow! Keep harvesting the flowers for your indoor vases and snip off any spent heads before they go to seed to keep the blooms coming,' says Noah Mabey, senior gardener at Thornbridge Hall and horticultural advisor to Platinum Spas.

You can still buy sweet peas now, and we recommend plug plants – Suttons has this lovely Barbie Mix, which has outstanding fragrance, £9.99 for a 9cm pot.

These dwarf sweet peas are perfect for troughs and come in lilacs, white and shades of pink, £15.99 for a 6 pack, B&Q.

3. Rambling roses

Rambling roses usually only flower yearly, so to encourage growth and good health, they need pruning during the summer.

'Rambling roses usually flower in June, and can flower well in their early years without pruning,' says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture.

'However, once established, the rose will need annual pruning. After flowering, cut side shoots back to a few healthy shoots. Remove dead, diseased and damaged growth right down to the base. Avoid pruning the current year's growth, as this will carry flowers in the following year.'

The key with rambling roses is to deadhead diligently, says Noah, 'When a rose flower fades, don't just snip the head off, cut the spent stem back to a healthy set of five leaves. This tricks the plant into pushing out another flush of gorgeous blooms.'

Siluetta Romantic is a great rambling rose variety for small gardens and containers. It has pretty pastel pink petals and is happy in full sun or partial shade, £19.95 for a 5-litre pot, Gardening Express.

For a country cottage style rambling rose, have a look at the yellow Banksiae 'Lutea' variety, which is a very vigorous climber and comes in a 3-litre pot, £39.99, Suttons.

4. Apple and pear trees

According to Richard, there are some rules of thumb when it comes to pruning fruit trees.

'Standard fruit trees, or those that have little to no formal shaping, are best pruned when they are dormant, between November and March. However, fan-trained and espalier trees do have a formal shape and should be pruned again in summer.'

So if the lower third of your tree feels woody and firm, that's the sign to prune the current year's shoots. 'Begin with removing dead, diseased and damaged stems, or any vigorous upright shoots that are growing above the top branches. The shoots that need to be pruned are those that were produced this year, usually lateral shoots from the main branches. These should be cut back to within a few leaves of last year's growth. Pruning cuts should be made just above a leaf joint, and shorten all side shoots, only leaving unpruned shoots if they are needed to extend the main framework of the tree.'

Noah has a top tip for growing apples and pears: 'They often over-produce, so if you see large, congested clusters of fruit, thin them down to just two or three healthy fruits per cluster. This ensures the tree channels its energy into growing larger, healthier fruit rather than a crowd of tiny ones.'

If you fancy growing apples, then the 'Cox's Orange Pippin' is a highly popular variety and can cope with the UK's climate. You can currently buy two 12-litre pots for £69.99 or one for £99.90 from Dobies.

Gardening Express have a pear tree duo of Conference and Williams for £79.99, the tree won't grow taller than 10ft, so you can always reach the fruit.

5. Climbing honeysuckle

If your honeysuckle flowers early in the summer, it should be pruned after flowering.

Richard explains, 'Cut back the plant by about a third to maintain a neat shape, but do not remove dying flowerheads as these will become berries. Those that flower later in the summer should be pruned lightly in spring instead. As these flower on the current season's growth, they should not be cut back too hard, or you risk losing flowers.'

Honeysuckle has a lovely sweet fragrance and is a firm favourite with bees, butterflies and birds. For the more classic variety, check out the Serotina variety that has that wonderful country cottage look, currently £11 for three 9cm pots from Thompson & Morgan.

If you'd like something a little different, then consider Suttons Scentsation with its yellow and ivory blossom, £29.99 for a 3-litre pot.

Pruning essentials

Giving the right plants a thorough prune at the right time of year will ensure they remain healthy, disease-free, and maintain the right shape.

My tomato plants are beginning to fruit, so I’m dedicating this month to support and care tasks that will encourage a bumper crop.

Knowing what to do with tomato plants in July is crucial if you want them to produce as many harvests as possible – especially in light of recent (and upcoming!) heatwaves. If you've grown your own tomatoes before, you'll know that hydration is key, but there are a few other tasks that I’ll be ticking off over the course of this month to nurture them into strong, healthy plants.

Add these jobs to your July to-do list, and you might just grow your best crop of tomatoes yet.

What you'll need

1. Provide support

One of my tomato plants in particular has shot up at speed over the last month. It’s become very top-heavy, especially now that tomatoes are starting to form – so I had to put a plant support in place, fast.

Staking is crucial for cordon tomatoes (the ones that grow tall). So far, I've used some jute string and a simple stick from an old bunch of peonies, but I’ll be ordering these bamboo canes from Amazon when it’s time to support my other tomato plants.

You can even buy tomato support frames like these Halatool tomato cages from Amazon.

2. Keep them hydrated

Tomatoes are thirsty plants, which is why watering remains paramount in July. If you’re growing tomatoes in pots, they’ll need extra hydration because they’ll dry out faster – and the same applies if you’re growing tomatoes in hanging baskets.

'Inconsistent watering can cause flowers to drop and lead to problems such as blossom end rot and split skins,' says Annelise Brilli, Thompson & Morgan's horticultural expert. 'Water deeply, then allow the top two inches (5cm) of soil to dry out before watering again.'

3. Feed the plants

Fertiliser is no joke when it comes to tomato plants – it really can make a world of difference to their fruiting potential, and July is the perfect time to feed it to them.

'Tomatoes are also hungry plants and benefit from regular feeding,' says Annelise. 'Add a liquid fertiliser to the watering can once a week, using a high-potash tomato feed to encourage strong flowering and abundant fruit production.'

Levington Tomorite, which you can order from Amazon for just £4, is one of the most popular choices, and it’s a fertiliser that’s earned me tons of tomatoes in the past.

This year, though, I planted my young tomato plants in Dalefoot Wool Compost for Tomatoes (available at Crocus), which is said to feed plants for the entire season. So far, that’s proving to be more than accurate – I’ve never seen a tomato plant grow so fast, and the stems are already piling on the fruit!

4. Pinch out side shoots

Don’t overlook this July tomato job if you’re growing a cordon tomato variety. Pinching out a tomato plant's side shoots (those little pairs of leaves that sprout in the junction of the main stem and adjacent stems) is absolutely key to conserving the plant’s energy for the fruiting stems.

'Remove side shoots as they appear so the plant's energy is directed into developing fruit,' says Annelise.

This tomato pruning technique takes seconds, but it can make a huge difference to your plant’s overall yield. Plus, it allows you to enjoy that signature tomato leaf scent!

5. Tidy dead growth

My main cordon tomato plant is thriving right now, but one of my other tomato plants isn't enjoying the same success yet (I think that's owing to a lack of pot drainage, so my bad!). I've noticed a fair amount of yellowing leaves at the base of the plant – and according to Annelise, it's best to get rid of it as soon as you can.

'Remove any dead or yellowing leaves from around the base to improve airflow and reduce the risk of disease,' she advises.

You can usually remove dead tomato plant material by hand, but if you're using a pair of snips, make sure you clean your garden tools with something like this Agralan Citrox Ready To Use Natural Citrus Disinfectant Spray from Amazon before and after.

Keeping these five tomato care tasks on your list for July, and you'll set yourself up for a summer of delicious harvests.

Garden and wildlife experts have revealed five of the best wildflowers for attracting birds to your garden this summer.

Attracting birds to your garden is a great perk of any wildlife garden. Not only are they natural pest control, but birds are delightful to watch and listen to, too. Not to mention, declining populations within songbird species mean they need our help, too.

Planting wildflowers in your garden is an excellent way to attract birds. Mimicking their wild environments, here are five beautiful wildflowers that attract birds and make your garden look gorgeous.

1. Cornflowers

Cornflowers frequently top lists of the best flowering plants for birds. Its stunning blue flowers are not only wonderful at brightening up our beds and borders, but pollinators are attracted to the colour, too.

‘Cornflowers are loved for their vivid blue flowers. They’re not only aesthetic for humans, but for birds too. They’re not only eye-catching, but also incredibly beneficial for birds, so they’re a favourite of mine,’ says James Ewens, wildlife expert at Green Feathers.

‘The bright blooms attract bees, hoverflies and other pollinators and insects, so not only are you supporting pollinators, but you’re also increasing the amount of natural food available to insect-eating birds.

‘Cornflower’s long flowering season means they keep supporting wildlife for months. Your garden will be buzzing with activity. Once flowering time is over, the seed heads can provide an additional food source for birds such as finches and sparrows, making cornflowers useful at multiple stages of the year.’

Where to buy cornflowers

• Cornflower Plant - Centaurea cyanus Victoria (Blue Maid), £5.99, Gardening Express
• Centaurea cyanus, £3.29, Crocus
• Mr Fothergills Tall Mix Cornflower Flower Seeds, £3, B&Q

2. Asters

Asters are one of the best autumn flowering perennials, making them a perfect choice if you want to extend the period of colour and flowering in your garden, as well as attracting wildlife.

‘Asters are invaluable because they flower later than many other garden plants, providing nectar for pollinating insects well into autumn. This helps sustain insect populations during migration and as temperatures begin to fall. Once flowering has finished, the plants produce seeds that are enjoyed by a variety of garden birds, making asters a fantastic choice for extending wildlife value throughout the season,’ says Amber Tunney, Horticultural Specialist at Cherry Lane Garden Centres.

Where to buy asters

• Aster × frikartii 'Mönch', £8.99, Crocus
• Aster alpinus Mixed, £19.99, Thompson & Morgan
• Aster novi-belgii 'Neron', £7.99, Gardening Express

3. Sunflowers

Who doesn’t love growing sunflowers? Adding plenty of height and colour to your garden, they make a beautiful, sunny display, while birds love feasting on their seeds.

‘Few flowers are as attractive to birds as the sunflower. Its large flower heads produce hundreds of nutrient-rich seeds that are packed with oils and fats - providing an excellent energy source for species such as goldfinches, greenfinches, tits and sparrows - which is especially helpful in summer as they’re feeding their young and active for longer,’ says James.

‘The bright yellow flowers are also highly attractive to pollinators while in bloom, supporting insects that many birds feed on. Leaving the flower heads intact rather than cutting them down allows birds to forage naturally, turning the garden into a valuable feeding station well into autumn.’

Where to buy sunflowers

• Sunflower SunBelievable Brown Eyed Girl 9cm Potted Plant x 4, £24.99, B&Q
• Sunflower SunBelievable™ 'Brown Eyed Girl', £13.99, Thompson & Morgan
• Sunflower Moonshine Easy Grow Lemon Yellow Blooms Bee-Friendly Cutting Garden Favourite, £3.49, B&Q

4. Bergamot

Bergamot is a great choice for attracting insects, which birds like to eat, to your garden. It’s a bushy perennial that provides striking red and pink flowers.

‘Also known as bee balm, bergamot is excellent for encouraging pollinators and other beneficial insects into the garden. While birds may not feed directly on the flowers, the abundance of insects they attract provides an important food source for species that rely on insects, particularly during the breeding season when adults are feeding hungry chicks,’ says Amber.

Where to buy bergamot

• Monarda 'Fireball' (PBR), £8.99, Crocus
• Monarda didyma 'Balmy Pink', £29.99, Thompson & Morgan
• Monarda didyma "Sugar Buzz Pink Frosting", £6.95, Gardening Express

5. Oxeye daisy

Not only is oxeye daisy a great plant for attracting birds, but it’s a highly drought-tolerant plant, making it a great choice for gardens that receive a lot of sun, or anyone looking for low-maintenance choices during summer.

‘Oxeye daisies may have a simple appearance, but they’re incredibly effective at supporting bird populations. They have open, accessible flowers that attract a wide range of insects, including bees, beetles and hoverflies,’ says James.

‘This bustling insect activity doesn’t go unnoticed by birds, especially in early summer as they’re feeding their growing chicks. Insect-eating birds, such as blue tits and robins, frequently visit daisy patches to hunt insects to feed their young protein-rich food.

‘As a native wildflower, oxeye daisy is also well suited to wildlife-friendly planting schemes and helps create the natural meadow-style habitats that birds are naturally drawn to.’

Where to buy oxeye daisy

• Ox-Eye Daisy - Wildflower Seeds, £1.59, Thompson & Morgan
• Mr Fothergills Ox Eye Daisy Flower Seeds, £3.50, B&Q
• Fresh Oxeye Daisy Seeds (Leucanthemum vulgare) 6000 seeds, £3.99, B&Q

If you want to make your garden welcome to birds, these beautiful flowers provide not only food, but also make it look like their home, too.

June has seen record-breaking temperatures, and with more very hot weather like this expected over the summer, our gardens are taking a punishing. While my garden border plants are coping ok as they’re able to draw on moisture deeper underground, it’s the thirsty potted plants that are suffering most in the heat, which has got me thinking about low-maintenance container plant options that might do better in these very hot and dry spells.

‘It’s all about gardeners thinking differently about what they plant and choosing drought-tolerant plants that won’t wilt the moment the sun comes out,’ according to Julian Palphramand, Head of Plants at British Garden Centres.

‘Gardeners don't need to dread these hotter summers,' says Julian, 'they just need to plant a bit smarter. Pick the right plants, get the timing right, and a garden can sail through a heatwave without anyone having to stand out there with a hosepipe every evening to protect plants.’

1. Lavender

‘If you want containers that look beautiful without needing constant attention, lavender is one of the best picks,’ says David Denyer, flower and garden expert at Eflorist. ‘Lavender is more prone to over-watering than under-watering and actually prefers drier soil, perfect for the summer months. It brings fragrance, soft colour and plenty of pollinator appeal, so it is a lovely choice for a patio, doorstep or cottage-style container display.’

‘You can't really go wrong with lavender,’ agrees Julian. ‘Plant it somewhere sunny with decent drainage, and it'll flower its heart out all summer while the bees do the rest of the work for you.’

Where to buy lavender plants:

• Crocus: Pop this Lavandula angustifolia 'Hidcote', from £4.79, in pots or borders.
• Gardening Express: Or go for the super fragrant Lavender stoechas Purple Flag - French Lavender, £5.99.

2. Geraniums

‘My next pick would be geraniums,’ says David. ‘Geraniums are a UK summer staple for good reason, because, similar to lavender, they love a sunny spot, prefer not to be constantly wet, and will flower for months with very little fuss.’

‘Deadheading geraniums will give them a helping hand, but even with the most minimal intervention they’ll still do you proud and look great during the summer,' adds David.

Chris Bonnett, owner of Gardening Express, agrees: ‘Geraniums come in a variety of shades and require very little maintenance. They tend to bloom annually and will fade once summer ends. With plenty of sunlight, well-draining soil, and regular watering, geraniums will thrive with minimal effort.’

Where to buy geranium plants:

• Suttons: Buy these garden-ready Geranium 'Best Red' F1, from £4.99.
• Thompson & Morgan: Enjoy a blaze of bright colour with these Geranium 'Jackpot Candyfloss' Mix, from £12.99.

Shop these planters

3. Verbena

‘Verbenas will keep a neat and colourful appearance and are great for really sunny spots, producing clusters of colourful flowers from late spring all the way into autumn,’ says David.

Summer bedding verbenas tend to be quite compact (about 30cm tall) and are great for containers and tubs. Trailing varieties of verbena will cascade over the sides of containers, so they are brilliant for hanging baskets and window boxes.

‘Alternatively, a perennial like this verbena bonariensis purple top, from £6.39 at Crocus, is a great drought-tolerant plant that makes a statement with its height in flower beds and borders,’ adds Julian. ‘Thin stems shoot up tall with clouds of purple flowers on top, so it looks like it's floating above everything else in the border.’

Where to buy verbena bedding plants:

• Gardeners Dream: In a pretty pale pink colour, try the delightful Verbena Light Pink Basket Plants, £12.73.
• Primrose: Or go for the vibrant tones of these Verbena Homestead Purple, £3.99.

4. Erigeron karvinskianus

‘Erigeron karvinskianus (also known as Mexican fleabane) is a wonderfully tough, low-maintenance plant, tolerating dry conditions well once established,’ suggests David. ‘They produce soft clouds of small white and pink daisy-like flowers that are more than happy in well-drained pots, cracks and walls.’

To grow erigeron karvinskianus, start seeds off, like these erigeron karvinskianus 'Profusion ' seeds, £2.49 from Suttons, popping them in trays or small pots (or buy plug plants) and then plant them up in your container, with well-drained soil and in a sunny spot on the patio. Once established, it requires very little looking after and being a self-seeder, it will often spread of its own accord.

Where to buy erigeron karvinskianus plants:

• Crocus: Ready to plant, try these potted Erigeron karvinskianus Mexican fleabane, from £6.99.
• Marshalls Garden: Or try these in pots or as ground cover - Erigeron Karvinskianus 'Stallone', from £14.99.

5. Bidens

‘Bidens are more drought-tolerant than many bedding plants and will cope well with the odd missed watering,’ suggests David. ‘Through most of the season, you'll be treated to a lovely yellow or white daisy-like flower which can work really well when spilling over container edges.’

Plant bidens in rich compost, like this Miracle-Gro All Purpose Enriched Compost, £8.54 from Amazon, with good drainage and position pots in full sun. They need little root space, so are perfect for hanging baskets, window boxes and planters. As well as requiring very little watering, they don’t need to be deadheaded and will continue producing new blooms.

Where to buy biden plants:

• Suttons: Enjoy these sunny yellow Bidens ferulifolia 'Taka Tuka Double Yellow Red Centre', £29.99.
• Thompson & Morgan: Or enjoy these bold orange Bidens ferulifolia 'Taka Tuka Red Yellow Brush', £29.99.

6. Shasta daisies

‘Shasta daisies are another great choice for summer containers,’ suggests Chris. ‘They usually appear in white with yellow centres, and these hardy flowers tolerate a variety of conditions, whether full sun, partial shade, or differing soil types.’

‘They only require light watering and can withstand periods of drought, making them an ideal low-maintenance planting choice - you can expect to see shasta daisies blooming throughout the summer months.’

When planting Shasta daisies in window boxes or pots, ensure that the container has adequate drainage and use an all-purpose potting compost, like this Westland Multi Purpose Compost with John Innes Peat Free, £6.28 from Amazon. And opt for a ceramic or plastic container if you can, which will retain moisture better than terracotta pots.

Where to buy Shasta daisy plants:

• Gardening Express: Go for the double-bloomed Leucanthemum x Superbum Coconut - Shasta Daisy, £7.99.
• Suttons: Or try Shasta Daisy 'Madonna', from £11.99, with its abundant blooms.

7. Echinacea

‘Echinacea (or coneflowers) can handle dry and sunny conditions perfectly and will continue to produce their bold, daisy-like blooms through summer into early autumn,’ says Chris. ‘Not only do they attract pollinators, but they also provide food for birds later in the season, thanks to their seed heads.’

When growing coneflowers in pots, opt for a compact variety, like this Echinacea Little Magnus, £10.99 at B&Q. Shorter varieties like this are more manageable and less prone to toppling over in strong winds. Just ensure that you choose a deep, sturdy pot.

Where to buy echinacea plants:

• Crocus: Try these stunning pink Echinacea Delicious Candy, from £14.99.
• J. Parker's: Or enjoy a variety of colours with these Echinacea purpurea Primadonna Mix, from £8.99.

8. Sedum

‘Look closely at the leaves, and you'll see why sedums cope so well with hot and dry heat,’ says Julian. ‘Sedums are thick and fleshy, so they are basically little water tanks. Leave sedum alone in a dry spell, and it won't even flinch; then it turns a rich rusty red as autumn comes in.’

‘Sedum foliage actually stores water, which makes it far more forgiving during dry spells than many traditional bedding plants, and they even look attractive when not in bloom,’ adds David.

Where to buy sedum plants:

• Gardening Express: Go for a mix of colours and shapes with this Hardy Succulent Sedum Collection, £19.99.
• Crocus: Try the striking Hylotelephium 'Lime Zinger', £12.99.

Adapt watering during hot spells

‘Make sure you water deeply but less often,’ advises Julian. ‘A good soak encourages roots to grow down into the soil rather than staying near the surface, which makes plants far more resilient when a dry spell hits.’

‘A layer of mulch around the base of plants also makes a big difference, helping to lock moisture into the soil so it doesn't evaporate as quickly in the heat.’

‘Timing matters too. Planting in autumn or early spring, rather than the height of summer, gives roots time to properly settle in before the heat arrives, so your plants are far better prepared when the next hot spell comes around.’

Plant pot watering essentials

Are your garden containers flagging in the heat? Share your summer watering tips with us.

Did you know you can reuse grass clippings in your garden? Not only does this save you from trips to the tip to dispose of them, but reusing grass clippings in your garden can also bring excellent benefits to your plants and lawn.

Grass clippings are high in nitrogen. When you reuse grass clippings on your lawn or in your garden, they decompose and release nutrients into the soil, where it is absorbed by the plants. Nitrogen encourages leaf growth and supports healthier plants and a more verdant lawn. It is a key component in many commercial plant feeds, so reusing this natural source rather than purchasing it will also save you money – a great budget gardening idea.

Here are four way syou can reuse clippings around your garden to help your plants and greenery flourish.

1. Add to compost

The most common way to reuse grass clippings is to add them to the compost bin or heap. Compost is made from a mix of nitrogen-rich green waste – grass clippings, uncooked vegetables, peelings and fruits – and carbon-rich brown waste – wood, dry leaves, twigs and cardboard. Together, these decompose to create healthy, rich soil that will encourage stronger and healthier plants.

Compost bins are readily available, and designs like this Outsunny 160L Tumbling Compost Bin from Amazon remove the need for manual turning, making the task of creating your own compost even easier.

2. Use as mulch in borders

Grass clippings can be used as an effective mulch across garden borders, vegetable beds and pots. The benefits are instant, but to reuse grass clippings in this way can also have a long-term impact on your soil health.

When you first reuse grass clippings as mulch, it helps lock moisture in the soil – ideal for keeping plants cool during heatwaves. Then, as the grass breaks down, it releases nitrogen into the soil in much the same way as a slow-release fertiliser – like this Lawn Feeder from Amazon. This is what makes it one of the best mulches for vegetable gardens, as plants like cabbage, broccoli and kale particularly benefit from the nitrogen that is released as the grass decays.

It has the added benefit of being a free weed suppressant.

3. Leave on the lawn

One of our favourite lawn care tips – leaving grass clippings on your lawn can actually make your grass look greener. In fact, leaving grass clippings on the lawn is a great way to protect your grass during a heatwave.

'It may be tempting to collect up the grass clippings after mowing, but it can actually be very useful to leave them on the grass. Sprinkling a light layer of cuttings onto your lawn after mowing acts as a mulch that locks in any moisture and nutrients, helping to grow thick, healthy grass!' says experts from garden machinery specialist, Cobra. 'Mulching mowers – like this Cobra model from Amazon – are a fantastic way to do this as they not only mow the lawn, but instead of collecting up the cuttings, automatically return the cuttings to the grass so that it can work its magic!'

To reuse grass clippings, cut the grass using one of the best lawnmowers, then use a rake or broom – like this 10" Yard Broom, currently £12.99 at Amazon – to evenly spread the clippings over the lawn. Avoid mulching when it's wet, as damp clipping won't break down as easily as dry ones. 'Late spring through to late summer is the best period to mulch with grass clippings,' adds lawn expert Jonathan Hill.

4. Use to fill a raised bed

Large raised beds can be daunting (and potentially very costly) to fill. However, if you reuse grass clippings alongside cardboard, shredded newspaper and twigs, you can easily fill a raised bed for free.

‘Green waste is high in nitrogen, such as grass clippings or used coffee grounds, while brown waste is high in carbon, like sawdust, wood shavings, shredded newspaper, or cardboard,' says Darren Stephens, Head Chef and Kitchen Gardener at Bishopstrow Hotel. ‘Layering the two in a raised bed creates heat and breaks down all the matter, turning it into compost.'

You can then top your raised bed with a thick layer of compost – like this Peat-free Westland compost from B&Q – for immediate planting.

So before you chuck those grass clippings in your garden waste bin or bundle them up for a trip to the tip, think of all the ways you could be using them to help your garden to thrive.

Stinging nettles aren’t the most pleasant weeds out there – the clue is in the name – but should you actually get rid of nettles in the garden?

Well, before you start researching the best ways to remove nettles, it’s worth learning about the wildlife benefits they have to offer. Sure, most weeds have their biodiversity merits – but according to experts, nettles cater to one pollinator in particular: butterflies.

I even spotted nettles in an award-winning show garden at this year’s RHS Chelsea Flower Show – so it’s safe to say they’re becoming recognised as a star of the show rather than a background character (or worse, something to banish entirely). If you’ve been wondering if you should get rid of nettles in your garden, take a look at what the experts say first.

When we talk about the weeds we should leave in a garden, it’s usually flowering types like clover and dandelions that get the spotlight. Bees adore them, obviously – but butterflies are crucial pollinators, too, and there’s one weed that they love even more.

Enter, nettles – the unsung heroes of the UK’s butterfly population. According to Morris Hankinson, managing director at Hopes Grove Nurseries, red admirals are especially fond of nettles.

‘The red admiral is a bold black and red migratory butterfly which lays its eggs mostly on stinging nettles, which is why it is so important to let some of your garden grow a little more wild,’ he says. ‘Leaving a patch of nettles provides breeding and feeding habitats for caterpillars.’

The wild garden trend was huge at this year’s Chelsea Flower Show, and Sarah Eberle, designer of The Campaign to Protect Rural England Garden: On the Edge (RHS Chelsea Garden of the Year), told me that over 40 species of invertebrates are supported by nettles. It’s no surprise, then, that the award-winning garden featured nettles in its planting scheme.

Nettles are best grown in moderation, though. They can be a safety hazard, thanks to their tendency to sting, and they can also be a job to control.

‘Nettles are aggressive growers, capable of spreading rapidly if left unmanaged, leading many homeowners to consider their removal as the most straightforward option for maintaining a tidy, low-maintenance garden,’ explains horticulture expert and The Plant Pod host Ross Dyke.

That said, Ross is very much in favour of leaving a small patch of nettles to support wildlife.

‘Rather than viewing them purely as a pest, some gardeners will adopt a more nuanced approach by managing nettles instead of eradicating them through complete removal,’ he says. ‘For instance, you might consider designating a specific corner of your garden to contain a patch of nettles. This strategy allows you to enjoy their benefits, such as supporting wildlife and enriching the soil, without allowing them to dominate your garden space or detract from its overall appearance.’

It's worth leaving out hydration stations like these bee watering stations from Amazon to look after pollinators in hot weather, too. The long stakes can be poked into a garden border or bed.

Ross also mentioned that you can harvest nettle leaves (wearing a good pair of gardening gloves, of course!) and make your own nutrient-rich fertiliser: ‘nettle tea;

‘This organic fertiliser is highly praised among gardeners for its ability to promote healthy plant growth and enhance soil fertility, making it a valuable tool for those who practice organic gardening techniques,’ Ross says.

Other ways to support butterflies

It's worth keeping a patch of nettles in your garden if you want to support the butterflies, or make your own fertiliser. Just be wary of pets and children!

If you're in the middle of landscaping your garden or have just moved in and are dealing with a wild garden that needs reconfiguring, you may have an excess of paving slabs and gravel.

Once you've got your pavers and gravel up from where they were, it's time to figure out what you can do with them. Do you pay for removal or try to reuse them in the garden? We prefer the latter as a genius sustainable garden idea.

We've spoken to our gardening experts to see what they can suggest, and they have some easy, practical ideas.

1. Make an insect habitat

Have you always wanted to create a bug hotel for your wildlife garden but haven't got round to it – here's the moment!

Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation explains, 'To help turn your garden into a haven for these helpful bugs and create a self-sustaining ecosystem you can recycle leftover pavers and gravel in order to create areas in your garden where they can bask in the sun, shelter and hibernate over winter'
Pick a quiet, sheltered, shady corner of your garden says Lucie, 'Place a random, off-centre short stack of pavers to create a structure full of gaps and spaces for ground beetles, woodlice etc to shelter.'

If you want to use a wooden bug hotel, then you can use the pavers and gravel. 'They are used to form a firm ‘foundation’ which will prevent wood from rotting as well as leaving some shady spots for some insects to hibernate in.'

We love Amazon's large wooden bug hotel, currently £21.20. It's the ideal size to be mounted on pavers.

2. Use rubble to fill large planters

'You can use rubble when filling large planters, but it can take up space that plant roots need, and it can affect the soil moisture,' advises Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture.

Care is required to make this work properly; the planter needs to be large so there's enough space, and you need to check a couple of things first. Richard explains, 'Check that any rubble you are using does not contain lime, as this can sometimes leach into the soil and alter the pH, which can be very damaging if you are growing acid-loving plants. Ensure that the rubble is not blocking any of the planter's drainage holes, as this can cause waterlogging.'

Another great tip from Richard is to place a layer of permeable landscaping fabric between the rubble and the soil if using rubble in a planter. 'This will prevent soil from falling into the gaps between the pieces of rubble, stopping it from potentially clogging drainage holes.'

Check out the GroundMaster 1m x 10m heavy-duty weed control membrane to pop in your pot if you try this method, £9.99, Amazon.

3. Create a path

This is a great way to use up pavers and gravel. We spoke to Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres, for his advice.

'Old pavers and gravel don’t have to go straight to the skip. If the slabs are in good shape, they can be reused for creating DIY paths, edging or small hardstanding areas, and broken pieces or surplus gravel can often be taken to a local recycling centre or used as hardcore where appropriate.'

Lucie agrees, 'If you only want to create a narrow edging, then you can tip the pavers on their sides – this works well when recycling broken pavers – sinking them into the ground around the edge of your lawn to create a definitive border around flower beds.'

Amazon's Neilsen steel scutch hammer is ideal for this, £10.99, and made from alloy steel.

4. Garden zones

Similar to designing zones within your home, you can also design similar spaces in your garden. These can be achieved by the materials you use, and this is where your leftover pavers and gravel can be put to work.

'Excess or recycled gravel can be used to create a simple band around curved flower beds, with the gravel both defining the growing space as well as practically helping to prevent weeds from transitioning from lawns into borders or vice versa, as well as providing great drainage,' says Lucie.

Create curves with B&Q's Hardys grass lawn edge border edging tool, now £10.63. It will give a sharp, straight edge.

5. Place them around a pond

We love this genius idea that will work better with broken pavers close to the edge and some of the gravel, too.

Lucie explains how to achieve this great reuse: 'Pavers are great for overhanging the edge of the pond by a couple of centimetres, creating natural shadows around the edge and helping to hide the liner – just be careful that you don’t have sharp edges to the pavers. If you are using paver pieces, then you can fill in gaps with gravel, and the immediate space between paver and lawn/soil can be divided by a space of gravel to help prevent the spread of weeds or runoff.'

Use good quality building sand and cement to keep them in place – a ratio of 5 or 6 parts sand to 1 part cement will create the right mix. Amazon's mortar, cement and sand ready-to-use mix is ideal, £8.99 for a 5kg bag.

Shopping essentials for getting rid of pavers and gravel

These expert garden ideas will hopefully give you some inspiration to use your pavers and gravel again and again, instead of throwing them out.

Wondering how to fill small pots in the garden? It isn’t as simple as gathering soil from the border – but there is a right way to top them up.

There are plenty of ways to fill the bottom of a large planter, but small pots don’t have as much room for trial and error. They’re far more susceptible to drying out, and because space is limited, it isn't unusual for heavier soils to suffocate the plants growing in them.

I’ve got a few small pots to fill in my own garden, so I set out to find out the best ways to fill them (and ensure I don’t accidentally kill my plants!). Here's what the experts recommend.

What you'll need

If your container garden ideas revolve around small pots, knowing the best way to fill them is more crucial than ever.

You’ll need to make sure you’re giving your plants the breathing space and nutrients they need to thrive. That's why it’s wise to distinguish between garden soil and potting mixes.

‘For small pots, skip the heavy garden soil and go for a light peat-free potting mix,’ advises Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. ‘Small containers can compact quickly, and thick soil or straight compost can end up choking roots.’

Jamieson Brothers Professional Preat Free Compost, which you can order from Amazon, includes John Innes and feeds plants for six months.

Chris Bonnett, horticulturist and founder of GardeningExpress.co.uk, agrees that using garden soil instead of potting mix is one of the most common container garden mistakes.

‘In containers, garden soil can compact and suffocate roots,’ he says. ‘Proper container mix will remain airy, stay dry, drain well and hold moisture more evenly, supporting plants in their growth.’

Julian already told us that a peat-free potting mix is the best option – it's generally lighter (and a lot more sustainable) than peat-based composts – but it’s a good idea to improve drainage in other ways, too. Pot feet are brilliant in heavy rain, but comfortable conditions for small potted plants start with the potting mix itself.

‘A good all-purpose peat-free mix works best, and if you're growing herbs or plants that hate sitting wet, add a bit of perlite or horticultural grit,’ says Julian. ‘It helps water drain properly and keeps the root zone airy, crucial when you're working with such limited space.’

You can order a 20kg bag of Westland Potting Grit from Amazon, or buy a large 50-litre bag of Hardys Perlite from Amazon.

'Fill your small pot and leave a gap at the top so water doesn't wash compost over the edge,' Julian adds. 'Water slowly at first to let the mix settle. It keeps things tidy, avoids waterlogging and makes maintenance much easier.'

So, garden soil is out when it comes to filling small pots in the garden, but a peat-free, multi-purpose potting mix (ideally, mixed with horticultural grit or perlite) gets the green light from the experts.

Just make sure you keep them well-watered – especially during hot weather!

Here’s a question I didn’t expect to be asking during this week’s heatwave: can a pond cool a garden down?

I was browsing for simple ways to keep a patio cool during a heatwave in light of this week’s very real red weather warning, and water features were among the expert suggestions. I’d actually been considering adding a pond to my garden, so I had to know if they really can cool a garden down.

I checked in with a few other experts to find out just how much truth is in the claim.

What you'll need

You don’t usually read about garden pond ideas that cool a garden down, but this week’s heatwave has seen them emerge as a brand-new hot weather solution. Can a pond really cool a garden down, though?

‘Keeping gardens cool during a heatwave isn’t just about shade and materials, as airflow and water can also make a big difference in helping outdoor spaces feel fresher and more comfortable during periods of hot weather,’ says Tom Douglas, senior gardening buyer at Cherry Lane Garden Centres.

Shop ready-made ponds

‘Water features such as small fountains and birdbaths can help naturally cool the surrounding area through evaporative cooling.’

Ponds are fantastic wildlife garden ideas anyway, so it’s never a bad idea to consider building one. You can either dig a hole in the ground for one (a preformed pond like this one from B&Q is ideal), or build a mini bucket pond using an old galvanised bucket or container.

To maximise a pond’s cooling effects, you’ll need to know where to position it.

‘If you want to use a pond to cool down part of your garden, it is best to position it in partial shade in an open and slightly elevated area,’ advises Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture. ‘The area should also have some kind of air circulation, as this aids water evaporation to cool the surrounding areas.’

To boost the rate of evaporation from the pond with moving water, Richard recommends adding a fountain like this best-selling solar-powered fountain pump from Amazon.

‘If you have garden seating, placing the pond in proximity to this can allow you to take advantage of its cooling effects,’ Richard adds.

So, a pond really can cool a garden down! Duly noted...

If, like me, you’re wondering how to keep your lawn alive during this week’s heatwave, you’ll be pleased to know that the red weather warning doesn’t have to spell disaster for your grass.

There are plenty of ways to keep a garden cool in a heatwave, but we’ve experienced the hottest June day on record this week, which means we need to make sure we’re giving our lawns the TLC they need to survive.

Luckily, there are a few ways to keep a lawn alive during a heatwave – it’s just about knowing how long to leave your grass, when to water it, and which other lawn care tasks are worth adding to your list.

1. Don't cut your grass too short

Knowing how to mow your lawn in hot, dry weather is crucial this week, because short grass is much more vulnerable to stress and heat damage. Longer grass, unsightly as it might seem, will actually protect your lawn right now.

‘Keep grass taller, around three inches, to reduce evaporation, enhance root depth and shade the soil,’ say the experts at Envii. ‘ Mow regularly but never remove more than one-third of the blade length at a time.’

The best robot lawn mowers out there, like the Segway Navimow i208 LiDAR Robot Lawn Mower (which is currently on sale at Amazon), can be set to a mowing schedule that cuts the grass little and often, and this approach tends to be the gold standard for summer lawn care.

Robot lawn mowers can also be healthier for a lawn than traditional lawn mowers, because they’re much gentler on the grass and dispense nutrient-rich mulched grass clippings back onto the lawn.

2. Water deeply

Intense heatwaves dry out lawns much faster than usual, so you’ll need to keep your garden as hydrated as possible. You might be wondering whether you can water your grass in the sun, though – and according to Lawnsmith’s lawn expert, Jonathan Davis, it’s best to stick to the cooler parts of the day.

‘Importantly, water deeply and infrequently, meaning giving your lawn a good soaking early in the morning and early in the evening when the temperatures are lower,’ Jonathan advises.

To save time (and in case, like me, you forget to water your lawn), it’s wise to buy a sprinkler that can be set on a timer. Bundle up this Hozelock Round Sprinkler Plus (which covers up to 254m²) with this Hozelock Sensor Controller Plus to set a watering schedule for your lawn.

3. Watch out for weeds

Weeding your lawn is probably the last thing you want to be doing in this heat, but Jonathan says the combination of recent rainfall and this week’s hot weather can create the perfect breeding ground for the likes of couch grass and creeping thistle. Left unchecked, they’ll take over your lawn.

‘A single weed can release hundreds of seeds if it’s left to flower,’ Jonathan explains. ‘Once those seeds spread across your lawn, you’ve got a much bigger job on your hands.

‘Weeds like dandelions have deep taproots that will regrow if you simply pull the top off. Use a trowel or a dedicated weeding tool to get underneath and remove the full root.’

I’ve been using the GARDENA weed puller, which you can order from B&Q, and it’s halved the time it usually takes to remove stubborn dandelions from my lawn!

Of course, there are ways to recover your lawn if weeds have already taken over – but if they haven't, prevention is better than cure.

4. Consider seaweed fertiliser

If your lawn is looking really worse for wear, it’s worth knowing what to put on your lawn in summer. Not every fertiliser is suitable for use in hot weather, though – especially during this week’s heatwave.

‘If you are looking to feed your grass without the risk of burning or scorching your lawn, the best options are organic or slow-release granular feeds, as well as liquid seaweed formulas,’ says Envii. ‘These are non-synthetic, meaning there are no harsh mineral salts that can scorch the turf.’

Liquid seaweed is perhaps the best option here, and solutions like The Shropshire Seaweed Company Organic Seaweed from Amazon promote strong, healthy grass that, when watered and mown correctly, thrives during a heatwave.

Keep these tips up your sleeve, and your lawn should survive this week's red weather warning.

In case you've been living under a rock (which would be cooler than where I am sitting right now), temperatures are soaring into uncomfortable territory, and lots of portable air conditioners are either sold out or carrying eye-watering price tags.

I've found myself recommending a different cooling appliance to friends and family this week: an air cooler. In fact, the Midea 5L Air cooler became an Amazon bestseller as we were all looking for a way to beat the heat, but on a budget, and I can see history repeat itself. With features like three speeds, 75° automatic oscillation, a 7h timer and minimal noise output, it's clear that it offers sweet relief from hot and humid weather.

If you've never come across one before, I'll give you a little explainer on them and how they differ from the best air conditioners and fans. Sitting somewhere between a fan and an air conditioner, air coolers are an underrated appliance that seem to fly under the radar until a heatwave arrives.

But after testing quite a few cooling appliances over the years at Ideal Home, I think they're one of the most affordable ways to stay comfortable when the mercury rises. Here's more on what they are and why you should get your hands on one, quicksnap.

What is an air cooler?

Unlike a standard fan, which moves warm air around a room, an air cooler uses water to help create a cooling-feeling breeze.

Emma Coleman, seasonal buyer at Robert Dyas, explains that unlike a fan, an air cooler releases cool air instead of circulating warm air, which will have a more noticeable effect on the temperature.

You fill an internal tank with cold water (and sometimes reusable ice packs), and as hot air passes through the appliance, it is cooled before a fan inside the unit circulates it around your room. In fact, it works a lot like this effective fan ice cube hack.

'This temperature will also be felt across the whole room, instead of the focus point that a fan cools. Some also have a heating function, making them useful in the winter as well,' explains Emma.

It's important to be clear, though, that an air cooler isn't a portable air conditioner by any stretch of the imagination. It won't dramatically reduce the temperature of an entire room in the same way a fitted AC unit can.

However, it will make the air blowing towards you feel cooler and fresher than a standard fan, which can make a huge difference on hot, sticky days.

Shop these in-stock air coolers

We haven't tested any of the models below; however, we have based our selection on brand reputation and shopper reviews.

If you see an air cooler that will suit your home, I wouldn't wait around for a deal, as I expect these coolers are going to sell out fast.

The biggest advantage is their affordability. While many portable air conditioners cost £300 to £600 or more, a good air cooler can often be snapped up for under £100. They're also much easier to live with, with no bulky exhaust hose to hang out of a window, no complicated installation, and they tend to be quieter and more energy-efficient than portable AC units.

Saying that, if you're expecting a more dramatic cooling effect, you'll probably be a bit disappointed, but if you're just looking for a way to cool yourself down during a heatwave, it's an option well worth considering, since there are a lot still in stock right now.

With more spells of hot weather forecast and air conditioners increasingly hard to get hold of, it's the cooling appliance I'll be recommending to friends and family for some quick relief.

If you're struggling to find an in-stock air conditioner, you can sign up for stock notifications for our best air conditioners on sites like Argos and AO.com. Or if you want a budget cooling alternative for right this second, a compact air cooler could just be the sweet spot.

It won't necessarily cool down your room like an AC, but it can make you feel a lot more chill, and I think that's what really counts in the middle of a muggy UK summer.

Are lawn mowers or robot lawn mowers healthier for your lawn? If you’re hoping to see greener grass this summer, one stands slightly ahead of the game.

The lawn mower vs robot lawn mower debate is an interesting one, because both have their benefits in the garden. Lawn mowers can be more budget-friendly, for example, while robot mowers make up for their cost in convenience and eco-friendliness. When it comes to actual lawn health, though, experts are leaning towards one winner in particular.

So, are traditional lawn mowers or robot lawn mowers better for a healthy lawn? Here’s everything you need to know.

If we want to understand which type of lawn mower is healthiest for our grass, it's wise to start by looking at the mechanical action of the blades on the grass. The best lawn mowers out there are designed to cut grass cleanly, with minimal tearing – but robot lawn mowers can guarantee that a little bit more.

‘Robotic lawn mowers are actually gentler on your lawn than traditional machines,’ explains George Ren, CEO at Segway Navimow. ‘A dull rotary blade tears the grass, leaving jagged wounds that make turf more vulnerable to drought and lawn diseases. In contrast, robotic mowers use small, razor‑sharp blades that cut frequently, little and often, promoting denser, healthier growth.’

Of course, you could learn how to sharpen lawn mower blades to reduce the chance of dull rotary blades hacking away at your grass – but the benefits of the best robot lawn mowers don’t stop there.

‘Robotic mowers work continuously, trimming little and often to keep the lawn at an optimal height,’ echoes Ryan Patterson, head of product management at Husqvarna UK. ‘This approach helps create a healthier, more consistent finish, with fine clippings naturally fertilising the grass.’

That mulching effect is something I’ve noticed on my own lawn since using the Segway Navimow i208 LiDAR Robot Lawn Mower, which is currently on sale at Amazon. A couple of months ago, my lawn was dry, yellow and patchy – but this month, it’s looking greener than ever.

I’ve actually heard the same feedback from friends and colleagues who have made the switch to a robot lawn mower. Those fine clippings really do enrich the grass – and you’ll save yourself the task of emptying a collection bag after mowing, too.

It’s worth noting that some lawn mowers have a mulching plug, like the GARDENA Handymower (also available at Amazon). These mowers also chop grass clippings into a fine mulch and dispense it back onto the lawn.

3 robot lawn mowers I recommend

So, are lawn mowers or robot lawn mowers healthier for your lawn? Both have their merits, especially if you want to cut costs and grab a traditional lawn mower with a mulching blade – but since robot lawn mowers are that little bit more gentle on your lawn, and cut the grass little and often, they just beat regular lawn mowers for this one.

With their gorgeous creamy-white blooms, lush evergreen foliage and sweet, heady fragrance, gardenias are the ultimate summer plant. But while there’s a lot to love about gardenias, they do have a reputation as being tricky plants to grow, so ensuring they have the right growing conditions and a little extra TLC is a must.

A flowering fragrant shrub, gardenias were traditionally grown indoors in conservatories and summer houses as they require plenty of warmth, humidity and bright, indirect light to thrive. But in recent years, hardier outdoor varieties of gardenia have been developed that can be grown in sheltered spots or milder areas outdoors.

Whether growing a gardenia in a garden border or as a flowering container idea on a small patio, positioning it where you can take it in and enjoy the intense fragrance is a must, so always try to place your gardenia near an outdoor seating area, beside an entranceway or close to a window if you can.

1. Choose the right spot

While indoor gardenias can be tricky to master, growing outdoor gardenias is much more straightforward. Gardenias like warmth and bright light, but they don’t like strong sun which can scorch the leaves and make flowers wilt. So choose a spot that gets plenty of light but is out of direct sunlight, such as an area of dappled shade cast by larger plants in a flower bed or border, which will also help provide shelter from wind.

‘Keep gardenias out of strong mid-day sun and try not to position in a very exposed area as both can stress the plant and affect flowering,’ advises Julian Palphramand, Head of Plants at British Garden Centres.

Growing gardenias in containers outside is also worth considering, as they can be moved somewhere sheltered over winter, such as inside a porch, conservatory or greenhouse which will protect them from frost and harsh weather.

Shop for gardenias online

2. Ensure soil conditions are right

‘Gardenias do best in acidic soil, so choosing an ericaceous compost is the best option,’ advises Julian. ‘Ericaceous compost, like this Verve Ericaceous Peat-free Compost, £7 at B&Q, is specially formulated for acid‑loving plants such as gardenias, rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias, as these plants require a lower soil pH to absorb nutrients effectively.’

‘Ericaceous compost contains materials such as pine bark and peat substitutes that help maintain acidity while providing iron and micronutrients essential for healthy growth. Its airy, moisture‑retentive structure also supports strong root development and vibrant flowering.’

Check your soil’s PH levels by using a kit, like this PH soil test kit, £7.89 at Amazon. To change soil PH and make it more acidic, in addition to adding organic matter or an ericaceous compost, you can also try adding ferrous sulfate to the water once a month, which adds soluble iron and can help prevent gardenia’s leaves from yellowing.

3. Ensure gardenias are well-hydrated

‘Gardenias prefer light, steady moisture, so keep the soil moist but not waterlogged,’ advises Julian. ‘Rainwater is best if you can manage it from a water butt, especially in hard water areas, as gardenias don’t like alkaline conditions.’

If your gardenia starts to drop flower buds or the leaves dry out, it’s a sign that it needs more water. Check how moist the soil is by digging your finger in - the soil should feel damp and hold together, but not feel muddy or wet.

Water gardenias at the base of the plant around the trunk. If your gardenia is in a container, empty any excess water in the saucer about 20 minutes after watering so the gardenia isn’t left sitting in water.

Shop for watering essentials

4. Fertilise regularly

Gardenias are hungry plants, so to keep them thriving, feed every two weeks over the spring and summer months. Use an ericaceous liquid feed, such as this Miracle-Gro Ericaceous Liquid Plant Food, £8.99 from Amazon, which can be diluted in a watering can and applied directly to the soil around the plant.

Alternatively, go for a slow release specialist feed, like Miracle-Gro Ericaceous Plant Food Granules, £9.45, from B&Q, which should be sprinkled evenly over the soil around the plant and gently forked in and watered to activate. This will only need to be applied once at the start of the season.

5. Keep gardenias in shape

To keep gardenia bushes in shape over the summer months, make sure to deadhead them regularly, which will redirect energy from seed production into creating more blooms.

Look for flowers that are wilting and turning brown and gently pinch or snip off any faded blooms, using clean, sharp secateurs, like these Burgon & Ball ergo deadheader snips, £12.99, Crocus. Cut off the entire spent bloom just above a leaf set. Collect in a trug or let them drop onto the soil and naturally compost down into mulch.

So there you have it, give your gardenia plants some TLC and they'll thrive. Let us know if you have your own gardenia and how it is faring.

Knowing what to do with clematis in June can be a game-changer in your climbing plant. Get the care right this month, and you'll be rewarded with bigger and better blooms and a generally healthier plant.

Even if you are already familiar with the basics of growing a clematis, these garden jobs to do in June are essential when it comes to ensuring a healthy and vigorous plant. 'June is a really important month for clematis as many varieties are either coming into flower, finishing their first flush or putting on lots of fresh, new growth,' says Richard Barker at LBS Horticulture. 'In June, focus on making sure your clematis has plenty of light; that their roots are kept cool and moist; that they receive consistent watering and that they have good support. The flowering of the plant will almost always suffer if one of those things is missed.'

1. Keep watered

Warm weather and prolonged dry spells are the enemy of clematis in June. So regularly watering a clematis in hot weather and throughout the rest of the summer is essential.

'If there's one thing I'd tell gardeners in June, it's don't let your clematis dry out. They're thirsty plants and can struggle if the soil becomes too dry, particularly during periods of warm weather. Regular watering will help keep the plant healthy and encourage stronger growth and more blooms,' says Dobbies’ plant buyer, Nigel Lawton.

Watering is especially important for potted clematis in June. 'Most varieties of clematis are happy in containers, especially more compact varieties. However, because plants in pots dry out quickly, check container-grown clematis regularly and water whenever the compost begins to dry out, this may be needed daily during warmer spells,' says Paul Parker, CEO of plants and perennials specialists at J. Parker’s.

'Regardless of whether you're growing in a pot or the ground, during a heatwave, a good tip is to soak the soil around your climber as well as watering at the base, enough for water to reach the deeper roots.' Watering too sparingly is one of the most common watering mistakes, especially in hot weather.

2. Mulch

Tied into the importance of watering is mulching. Laying a fine layer of bark mulch – like this from Amazon – around the base of the clematis in June will reduce evaporation and help the soil retain water.

'For the best results, think about creating the conditions clematis enjoy in nature – cool, moist roots and plenty of sunlight on the stems and flowers. Mulching around the base is a great tool in achieving this,' says Nigel Lawton, plant buyer at Dobbies.

3. Feed your clematis

In June, clematis will be working overtime, creating beautiful blooms and putting on plenty of new growth. 'Their vigorous growth makes them incredibly hungry plants, especially in the summer months. In June, feed clematis plants every one to two weeks using a high potash fertiliser to achieve the best flowering displays,' says Paul Parker, CEO of plants and perennials specialists J. Parker’s.

However, Julian Palphramand, Head of Plants at British Garden Centres, urges restraint. 'If the plant is growing well, a light feed can help it carry on flowering, but don’t go overboard. Too much fertiliser, especially anything high in nitrogen, tends to give you lots of leafy growth and fewer flowers. It’s also worth checking that the stems are properly supported and gently tying in any growth.'

Vitax stocks a variety of specialist Clematis feeds, including this concentrated fertiliser, available on Amazon. Bronte also offers a lower-maintenance slow-release fertiliser, also on Amazon, ideal for those who struggle to maintain a regular plant feeding schedule.

3. Deadhead and lightly prune to encourage more blooms

Knowing how to prune clematis is one of the main challenges of growing this beautiful plant. There are three different types of clematis, each with its own pruning schedule. If your clematis falls into type one or two, then it is one of the plants you should prune in June.

Group one plants don't need pruning, but this clematis will still benefit from deadheading.

'For a group 2 clematis, which includes many of the large-flowered varieties that bloom in May and June, then you can lightly prune it after the first flush of flowers has faded, but don’t cut it back hard,' advises Richard Barker at LBS Horticulture.

Instead, deadhead the spent flowers for a second bloom. 'To do this remove the spent flowers and trim back to a strong pair of buds or a healthy side shoot just below the faded bloom. This helps tidy up the plant and can encourage fresh growth and a second flush later in summer,' advises Richard.

You shouldn't prune group three clematis in June; these are some of the best plants to prune in January.

4. Tie back before stems harden

Clematis are vigorous climbers, especially in June, so keeping on top of these fastest-growing climbing plants is essential.

'Clematis can grow very quickly at this time of year, but the stems are delicate and can snap off easily in any wind. To help prevent this, use some soft garden twine and tie stems loosely to one of the best plant supports, spreading them out rather than letting everything bunch together,' says Nigel Lawton, plant buyer at Dobbies.

This soft bio-stretch twine, from Amazon, would be ideal for securely tying the stems in without damaging them.

'Tying in the new growth gives the plant much better coverage and protection, improves airflow, and helps you get flowers across the whole support rather than just at the top,' explains Nigel.

Tying in the growth in June, when the stems are new and more malleable, is also much easier than when they have hardened and become woody later in the season. 'A neglected clematis can quickly become a tangled mass of stems, whereas regular tying in will help create a much neater display and ensure flowers are spread evenly across the plant,' adds Richard Barker at LBS Horticulture.

5. Pest control

You should always keep a weather eye out for pests or problems, but June is a good time to be extra vigilant.

'Check for any issues such as sudden collapsing stems, pest infestations, slugs and snails. If you do notice anything, then make sure to remove any dead, damaged or diseased growth and keep the area around the base clear to maintain good airflow,' says Richard Barker at LBS Horticulture.

Aphids are a particular problem and will destroy buds and new shoots if kept unchecked. Thankfully, a simple soapy water spray is one of the easiest ways to get rid of aphids and is very effective. Alternatively, you could use ladybirds to control aphids.

Add to basket

If you care for your clematis well now, you should be rewarded with another flush of blooms and strong growth over the summer.

I don't use the word 'magic' that often when it comes to things I use in the garden, but RocketGro's Magic Mulch, £14.84 from Amazon, has genuinely lived up to its name in my garden this year.

I've been using it everywhere from my plant pots to flower beds, largely because our weather has been so unpredictable of late. One week it's pouring with rain, and the next I'm rushing around with a watering can trying to keep everything alive.

Since I've started using Magic Mulch, though, I've noticed a big difference. The plants that would normally start looking wilted and sorry for themselves are looking much happier, and I'm worrying less about watering my plants in hot weather because the compost and soil are staying moist for longer.

And this is just one of the many benefits of using this magical stuff. Here's all it can do for your plants this summer.

I've actually tried plenty of different types of mulch in the past, and the biggest benefit I've found is its ability to regulate moisture levels, and that's where Magic Mulch really comes into its own.

It forms a protective layer over the soil and compost, slowing down evaporation and helping the ground stay cool and damp during warm spells. At the same time, it's also brilliant during rainy spells. I've found it helps protect my plants in pots from very heavy rain by preventing compost from being saturated and waterlogged, while also improving soil structure in my borders. Hence, excess water drains away more effectively, and that's what Holly Reaney, content editor at Period Living, found in her new-build garden.

I've been happily spreading it around my flower beds to help protect my plants from slugs and snails, where slugs are a constant battle. While no product can promise a completely pest-free garden, this mulch says slugs don't particularly like it, and I've found some of my vulnerable plants seem to be faring much better this year, bar the slug-loving plants like my hostas, which are an uphill battle at the best of times.

Another big plus is weed suppression. A generous layer blocks light from reaching weed seeds and suffocates any roots, so far fewer seem to pop up, which means I'm spending way less time weeding! It's now officially on the list of my go-tos for a weed-free garden.

Then there's the added bonus that it's feeding my plants at the same time. Its Peat-free, organic formula slowly releases nutrients back into the soil for up to three months, according to RocketGro. This helps to improve soil health while supporting plant growth.

I can't really fault this mulch. It feeds my plants, helps keep weeds in check, and seems to deter slugs, but what I love most is how it helps my garden cope with the extremes.

Whether it's a heatwave or days of torrential rain, my pots and borders seem to stay at that sweet spot between neither too dry nor too wet, and that's pretty darn magical!

My Magic Mulch toolkit

After seeing how much happier my plants look, RocketGro's Magic Mulch has firmly earned a permanent spot in my gardening arsenal.

Ever considered parasol trees as a garden shade solution?

I hadn’t either, but after spotting Nigella Lawson’s beautiful setup in her recent Instagram post, I’m convinced it’s one of the best natural garden shade ideas. Nigella's magical garden setup includes a fizz of pretty fairy lights, and together, they create the most whimsical garden seating area.

It’s had me wondering just how achievable parasol trees are to grow at home, and how long they actually take to reach the point that Nigella’s have – so I spoke to the experts to find out how we can achieve a similar look at home.

Get the look

Nigella’s outdoor seating setup takes garden lighting ideas to the next level, boasting a ceiling of twinkling fairylights. What really stands out for me, though, is the fact that the lights are hanging from a real-life tree canopy – not a parasol in the traditional, man-made sense.

You can spot three tree trunks in Nigella’s Instagram post, and the garden furniture set is positioned in the centre of the triangle. The branches have been trained in a canopy-like fashion, providing a dense cover above the table and chairs.

So, just how achievable are parasol trees?

‘For a longer-term solution, planting a small tree or multi-stem shrub is worth considering,’ says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. ‘While it takes a little patience, it will provide reliable natural shade and structure over time, and there are plenty of compact options available in garden centres suited to smaller spaces.’

It looks like Nigella’s have been part of her garden for a while, then, but that doesn’t mean you can’t start a parasol tree project now if you’ve got the patience for it. It’s all about knowing how and when to prune trees (typically, late winter), and dealing with the right branches.

‘To train trees to create canopy cover in your garden, you will need to form a durable framework that can take several years,’ says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture.

Richard says you’ll need to establish a vertical leading stem, remove competitors, and gently tie young, flexible branches so that they’re facing outwards. That way, you’ll create a wider, flatter canopy. Plane trees, pear trees and crab apple trees are among the most popular species suited to training as parasol trees, and you can often find them pre-trained at garden centres – but if you want to buy a larger specimen for instant shade, this Indian bean tree from Gardening Express is ideal.

You’ll also need to select scaffold branches, which Richard advises leaving on the tree permanently to form the main canopy.

‘The lowest branches should offer enough clearance for someone to walk comfortably underneath,’ he says.

Nigella Lawson's tree parasols might seem unachievable, but with some time, patience and pruning skills, you can get the look at home. Or, buy a mature tree as a standalone parasol!

Whether it's a fast-growing hedge, an overhanging tree branch, or a new garden room near the boundary, the garden features that cause neighbour disputes are often the ones that homeowners don't tend to give much thought to before starting a project.

While most outdoor features begin with the best intentions, it's surprisingly easy for issues around rights to garden privacy, sunlight and boundaries to cause tension next door. In fact, research from Checkatrade found that six in ten Brits have experienced a garden dispute with a neighbour.

Before you go any further with your garden fence idea or building a new pergola, it's worth knowing which features are most likely to spark complaints. We've spoken to leading garden experts to help you understand the rules every homeowner should be aware of.

1. Fence updates and repairs

Fences are one of the most common causes of disputes between neighbours. From height restrictions to ownership, fence rules are often full of grey areas that regularly catch people out.

If you're wondering how high a fence can be, in England it can be up to two metres high before you need to seek planning permission - though that drops to one metre if it borders a highway or footpath.

There's also the question of who owns the fence. 'The common myth that you own the fence on the left-hand side is just that: a myth,' says Jamie MacGregor, Checkatrade's 2025 Landscaper of the Year.

Jamie advises looking at your title register and title plan from HM Land Registry. 'The presence of a ’T’ mark on the boundary means you own that fence - but note that also means you are responsible for maintaining it. Meanwhile, ‘H’ indicates shared responsibility.'

And if you've been eyeing up your side of the fence and wondering if you could give it a lick of paint, you should think twice, says Jamie. 'Legally, even your side of the fence still belongs to the owner, so painting or staining it without permission could be considered criminal damage.'

If you do want a different finish, installing your own garden screening just inside your boundary is usually the safest option.

Slatted privacy fencing has also surged in popularity. But the other side often shows supports, fixings, and black fabric - which can lead to disputes.

'When installing, you need to stay within the 2-metre height limit. Careful design, correct orientation, and coordinating with neighbours on placement are advised to avoid disputes over how they look when installed,' advises Jamie.

Shop garden screening

2. Tall hedges and overhanging branches

Mustafa Sidki, litigation partner at law firm Thackray Williams, says that overhanging branches and high hedges are among the most common disputes his team deals with.

'It is generally the case that you are entitled to cut branches or hedges that have grown over a boundary,' he says. 'As branches are owned by the landowner from which they originate, you should ask whether they would like the branches returned or disposed of.'

While there is no legal height restriction on garden hedges, any hedge over two metres in height which obstructs your or your neighbours' light or view can be complained about to your local council, which can issue a notice for it to be cut back.

3. Pleached trees

Pleached trees - trained to grow with flat, dense, horizontal branches - have gained viral online attention in recent years. The hashtag #pleachedtrees has even racked up over 15 million views. While pleached trees can be a striking alternative to fencing, their height and density mean they can quickly become a source of tension.

'Rows of pleached trees over two metres may be classed as “high hedges,” giving neighbours the right to request action if they are being impacted, particularly if they are blocking light,' says Jamie.

If your neighbour's tree is blocking your sunlight or damaging your fence, it's worth knowing where you stand. While you can cut back branches that overhang your property, any work must stop at the boundary line, and you should always check whether the tree is under a Tree Preservation Order before carrying out any pruning.

'Communication is the key to avoiding conflict, particularly when it comes to trees or fences blocking light,' says Morris Hankinson, managing director of Hopes Groves Nurseries. 'It might be helpful if you take photos of the tree or view from your garden so they can see firsthand how the lack of sunlight is impacting the space.'

Morris adds that neighbours aren't always aware of the impact a tree or hedge is having, making an informal chat the quickest and easiest way to try and find a solution.

4. Garden rooms and pergolas

Garden rooms and pergolas have become one of the most popular home improvements in recent years - but they're also one of the garden features that cause neighbour disputes, often because of that one rule that catches homeowners off guard.

'They are legal providing they are no more than 2.5 metres tall near boundaries, cover less than half the garden, and are used for purposes ‘incidental to the house’,' warns Jamie.

This means they cannot have a kitchen or toilet, which would allow them to be used as a separate dwelling or permanent bedroom. 'If they do, that requires planning permission,' advises Jamie.

Go above the 2.5m boundary height without permission, and it's something you'll need to disclose when it comes to selling. It could result in an enforcement notice requiring alterations, or, worst-case scenario, removal.

There are, however, some important exceptions, says Helen Godsiff of home improvement specialists, Eurocell. 'It's always best for homeowners to check local planning rules carefully before purchasing or installing a garden room or large shed,' she says.

It's worth talking to your neighbour building a pergola or garden room - a structure that sits perfectly within the rules can still cause friction if it affects their light or sense of privacy.

5. Invasive plants

The chaos gardening trend - a no-rules, scatter-and-see approach to planting - has been one of the most joyful recent shifts in garden culture. But using mixed or poorly labelled seed mixes can unintentionally attract invasive species - which is where things get complicated.

'Certain invasive plants are covered by legislation due to the damage they can cause,' says Jamie. 'If one spreads into neighbouring properties, you could be held responsible. And under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981, it’s illegal to plant or cause certain non-native species to grow in the wild.'

To avoid problems, Jamie recommends only bringing plants of known origin into your garden and checking for any restrictions before introducing new species.

6. Garden lighting

A well-lit garden is one of the most effective ways to extend how you use your outdoor space in the evenings - but poorly positioned, or bright lighting can lead to neighbours complaining about outside lights.

'Bright or badly placed garden lights can spill over into neighbours’ gardens or homes, causing glare and reducing privacy,' says Jamie. 'While most garden lights are legally fine, very disruptive lighting could be considered a ‘statutory nuisance’.

If you are putting up lights, be considerate with your placement to avoid garden lighting mistakes. 'Aiming fixtures downwards will minimise spillover,' advises Jamie. 'And using timers or motion sensors can ensure lights are only on when needed.'

FAQs

Whether you're planning a new fence, adding a new garden room, or simply getting on top of your planting, a little forward planning - and a conversation with your neighbours - will pay off.

Whenever I plan my vegetable garden for the year ahead, I always make sure I factor in two flowering annuals that keep pests at bay.

I’ve celebrated companion planting ideas for a long time now, and now that the growing season is here in full swing, it isn't too late to plant up your own garden with a few beneficial flowering plants. For me, those are marigolds and nasturtiums – both are brilliant at luring and warding away pests in their own way.

Here's a breakdown of why marigolds and nasturtiums are some of my favourite gardening sidekicks.

What you'll need

1. Marigolds

I praise marigolds as superhero flowers every single year, because they have tons of benefits in a vegetable garden (besides looking really pretty when they're in bloom).

For one, they produce a strong scent that keeps a range of pests at bay – so if you're looking for ways to get rid of aphids, for example, they're a brilliant flowering annual to have on-side. They're also attract ladybirds, which naturally prey on aphids and other unwanted pests, which is why I always plant marigolds next to the peas in my vegetable garden.

'They thrive alongside a range of vegetables but are particularly effective when planted with tomatoes, potatoes, and beans, as well as brassicas like cabbage and broccoli,' adds Lechuza's horticultural expert, Ross Dyke. 'Their interaction with these crops can enhance growth and yield.'

Ross recommends compact French marigolds if you're planting in small areas or containers, like Fothergill's Marigold (French) Double Dwarf Mixed' from Amazon.

2. Nasturtiums

Nasturtiums are a type of sacrificial plant, which means they're good at luring pests to a designated spot in your garden. That might sound like a terrible idea, but if they can actually save your vulnerable crops from annihilation.

'Nasturtiums act as a sacrificial trap crop, luring aphids away from your precious veg!' says Lucy Hutchings, co-founder of heirloom seed company She Grows Veg.

I also find that nasturtiums grow at speed, so you'll quickly find there's plenty of foliage for the likes of cabbage white caterpillars to feed on (in favour of your hard-earned vegetable crops!). Nasturtiums are another plant that attracts ladybirds, too, which means you'll have a larger arsenal of predatory insects on your team.

Fothergill's Oh Sow Simple Nasturtium 'Red' seeds, which you can order from Amazon, produce striking red blooms.

Marigolds and nasturtiums are staples in my vegetable garden, and I don't think I'd ever be without them now. There are plenty of other pest-repellent plants that work brilliantly alongside fruiting and vegetable crops, too.

Love your house but have a north-facing garden that's tricky to deal with? North-facing gardens aren't a reason not to buy a house, but they do come with their issues – we're here to help you solve them with our experts' help.

Of course, there are some advantages too – no direct sunlight, which means you can fill the space with plants that love a little shade.

'A north-facing garden doesn’t have to feel dark or uninspiring,' agrees Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. 'In fact, with a few smart tweaks, it can become one of the most atmospheric and usable spaces in your home.'

1. Lighten up your surfaces

'Start by using light-coloured surfaces, think pale paving, and use white or pastel-toned containers to bounce the limited sunlight around and make the garden feel more open,' suggests Julian.

Gravel is also good for this; choose white for a completely bright look. B&Q sell white 10- 20 mm chippings for a large bag that will cover 0.3m2 for £10.

Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture, agrees, 'Change dark coloured decking or muddy lawns for paving in lighter shades to naturally brighten the space. Any darker coloured areas will absorb the little light that your garden receives.'

For paler paving, check out B&Q's Bradstone fossil buff sandstone paving slabs, £7 each for 30 x 60cm. They are warm in colour and will lighten up your dark patio.

2. Add shade loving plants

If you've always wanted a variety like foxgloves but haven't been able to in the past, then now is the time.

'Plants such as ferns, hostas and hellebores can thrive in low-light conditions, making them ideal for including in a north-facing garden,' says Richard. 'They can be strategically placed in areas that receive little to no sunlight, brightening the garden more naturally.'

'These shade-loving plants are your best friends and will thrive in these conditions, giving you lush foliage and reliable colour without needing full sun,' adds Julian.

Foxgloves are such a striking plant to grow. Go bold with your colour choices like this Firecracker variety in a bright orange, £15.99 for a 2-litre pot, Gardening Express. For a resilient option, consider hellebores, this Double Ellen Pink Spotted is a lovely variety with double petaled flowers, currently £9.74 for a 9cm pot, Crocus.

3. Cover your walls and fences

There are two options when it comes to walls and fences: you can either paint them or train climbers up them – or do both, of course – both are great ways to brighten up these areas.

There are so many great paint colours that will brighten up a shady garden. We love Cuprinol's Country Cream, which is a definite win when it comes to lightening up your garden, £4.75 for a tester pot from B&Q.

'A great way of introducing colour and texture is to select some climbers which thrive in shady spots. These will also provide shelter for wild birds or insects, as well as pollen or berries for food,' advises Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert, Easy Garden Irrigation.

Lucie recommends climbing hydrangeas: 'They have lush, bright green, heart-shaped leaves in the spring, large, fragrant white flower heads throughout the summer, followed by the foliage turning bright yellow in autumn, and once these fall, it leaves reddish-brown stems throughout winter.' 


You can buy 'hydrangea petiolaris', a reliable self-clinging climber, for a reduced rate presently of £17.21 for a 2-litre pot from Crocus.

4. Check out low maintenance perennials

'Perennials are a great addition to any garden as they provide you with a cost-effective, reliable and low-maintenance backbone to your garden,' advises Lucie. 'With herbaceous perennials such as hardy geraniums, astilbe and lily of the valley dying back in winter and then reemerging the following year, bringing with them fresh lush foliage and colourful blooms – they are definitely worth considering.'

Crocus have a lovely hardy geranium variety called 'geranium sanguineum var. striatum or striped bloody cranesbill, currently on offer for £7.49 for a 9cm pot. It has lovely pale pink flowers and loves partial shade.

Lucie also suggests evergreen perennials, which will add structure all year round. 'A good option is heuchera 'Midnight Rose' with its glossy dark maroon foliage with bold pink speckles.' You can buy a 1-litre potted plant of this variety from Dobies for £19.99. It's an excellent filler for containers, too.

5. Add splashes of colour with annuals

Annuals are a really good option, but you need to plan your seasons, Lucie explains, 'You can use annuals to add a splash of colour to a north-facing garden through the year as long as you are careful with which plants you select as they need to be able to cope with shade, cooler temperatures and damper environments.'

For example, in spring, pansies and violas will add light and colour. Then in the summer, you will have lots of choices. 'Begonias which will still provide nonstop blooms of bright colours when in permanent shadow and cool soil, impatiens, fuchsias and even lobelia which can cope in partial shade,' advises Lucie.

'When the autumn months arrive, you could then introduce chrysanthemums, which will provide bright bursts of colour in low light as well as hardy cyclamen, which are perfect for shaded areas or underplanted by trees or shrubs.'

At this time of year, you can buy begonias; they like bright indirect light and are great for beds, borders and hanging baskets. We like the 'begonia x tuberhybrida' variety, which is shades of apricot, from £8.99, Dobies.

Early summer is a good time to buy established chrysanthemum plants as they can be planted straight into your borders. Check out B&Q's Garden Bloom chrysanthemum plug plants, 12 for £17.09.

6. Choose brighter greenery

'In areas where you do not get natural light, include plants that have bright or variegated foliage,' suggests Richard. 'This can add colour and interest in shaded areas instead of hiding dark plants in the already dark areas of your garden.'

You can pick plants and shrubs that have brighter green foliage, like low-maintenance ferns, for example. The shuttlecock/ostrich fern variety is the most common and will work beautifully, £9.95 for a 2-litre pot from Gardening Express.

Or opt for varieties that have colourful leaves like Coprosma 'Eclipse', £11.99 from B&Q, which has striking, almost neon pink and black foliage and loves partial shade.

7. Pop in some reflective surfaces

'To lift the mood, add a few reflective touches: a mirror on a wall or fence, or a small water feature, can catch and throw light deeper into the garden,' says Julian.

We love Dobies Serenity Laurel Green large mirror, it's currently £129.99 and will definitely help to bounce the light around your north-facing garden.

Water features bring a calmness to a garden as well as lift it up visually. Take a look at Amazon's Primrose 60cm stainless steel waterfall blade cascade, £87.98. It's easy to install and will enhance your garden instantly.

North-facing garden essential buys

Having a north-facing garden isn't the end of the world. In fact, some fabulous plants and accessories will instantly lift the space. It's about layering your planting and thinking ahead so you can have texture and colour all year round.

June is the peak of rose season, the month when roses are in full bloom and looking their most fabulous. And while it’s tempting to sit back and just enjoy them, knowing what to do with roses in June and you can help extend their flowering season and keep those blooms in abundance for longer.

While learning how to grow roses is all about putting in the effort at planting time in autumn or knowing when to hard prune roses in winter or early spring, in June it’s more about general maintenance to ensure your roses' longevity and set them up for the following year’s performance… and putting in the effort this month can really pay off.

So if you’re unsure what you should be doing with your roses in June to get the best out of your blooms, follow this checklist of the key tasks needed.

1. Deadhead consistently

The June task that is essential for roses, according to Monty Don, is disciplined deadheading. ‘Do this, and you’ll extend the flowering season by stimulating fresh side shoots which will bear new flower buds,’ says Monty.

Julian Palphramand, Head of Plants at British Garden Centres, agrees: ‘June is really about keeping roses in good shape to encourage more flowers. And by deadheading repeat-flowering types regularly, it will help keep them producing.’

‘You don’t need any special tools or training to deadhead roses,’ adds Julian. ‘The key is to remove the whole flower head, not just the petals - as leaving the base behind still allows seed development to begin, which is exactly what you’re trying to prevent.’

‘For plants with tougher or woodier stems, like roses and dahlias, it’s always worth using a clean pair of secateurs. Cut at a slight angle just above a leaf joint or an outward-facing bud. This encourages the plant to grow outwards rather than inwards, which is better for air circulation and overall shape.’

‘Deadheading works best when you do it regularly during peak growing season rather than an occasional blitz. The more consistently you do it, the longer and more generously your plants will flower.’

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2. Keep roses well hydrated

‘In June, roses should be in full bloom, so apart from removing any spent flowers, there’s usually no need for pruning unless you spot signs of disease,’ says Chris Bonnett, founder of Gardening Express. ‘But with the rising temperatures, roses will benefit from good hydration, so regular watering during dry spells is a must to help keep blooms vibrant and healthy.’

Don't make the watering mistake of watering during the hottest part of the day. Instead, water early on in the day if you can, to allow the plant’s roots to absorb moisture before the heat evaporates it. Aim the water directly onto the soil around the base of the plant so that it reaches the roots. And avoid the foliage and flowers as water droplets can magnify the heat from the sun and dry out leaves.

3. Apply mulch to conserve moisture

‘June is one of those months where a little bit of regular care makes a big difference when it comes to roses,’ says Julian. ‘Giving roses a good watering in dry spells will help them keep producing, and applying a layer of mulch, like this Strulch Organic Garden Straw Mulch, £17.50 at Amazon, around the base of your rose plants will help to hold moisture, which is especially useful once the weather warms up.’

Aside from aiding moisture retention, mulching also helps to suppress weeds, which will be in competition for water and nutrients.

‘A layer of compost or mulch spread around the base of the plant, but not touching the stem, helps the soil stay moist and cool during dry spells,’ adds Julian. ‘It takes five minutes, whether it's a rose in a flower bed or a container rose, and makes a noticeable difference through a hot summer, protecting your rose but still allowing it to do its thing in your garden.’

4. Give roses a summer feed

‘If you haven’t fed your roses since their spring blooms, now is also a great time to apply rose fertiliser,’ advises Chris. ‘Feeding roses in June will help to encourage more flowering throughout the summer and keep your plants looking lush and full of colour.’

‘Roses are hungry plants, and they’ll reward you for feeding them well throughout the season,’ advises Julian. ‘Slow-release granules like these Miracle-Gro Feed Granules, £6.50 at B&Q, work well and should be applied at planting, in June and again in August to keep them going. Top that up with a liquid rose feed every couple of weeks through the flowering season and you’ll notice the difference and get abundant blooms.’

‘Always water your plants before you feed them,’ advises Julian. ‘Dry soil is poor at absorbing nutrients, and there’s a risk of scorching roots if you apply feed to parched ground. Once the soil is moist, apply liquid feed directly around the base of the plant, not over the leaves, which can cause brown patches, and dilute according to the instructions on the bottle.’

5. Monitor for pests and diseases

‘June is also a good time to keep an eye out for pests like aphids, as well as diseases like black spot,’ says Julian. ‘Roses can go downhill pretty quickly if you leave problems alone.’

Black spot is one of the most common rose problems and is caused by a fungus. Round purple or black spots form on lower or older leaves, and the leaf then starts to yellow around the spots before falling off. To combat, remove any infected leaves and prune the plant to keep the centres open, making sure to clean away any fallen debris underneath. Using a remedy like this, Sulphur rose and fungicide spray, £12.99, Thompson & Morgan, can help to prevent and stop the spread.

‘During June, roses can also fall victim to pests like aphids and sawfly larvae, so it’s worth keeping an eye on them to make sure they don’t spoil your display,’ adds Chris. ‘Aphids tend to cluster around new shoots, while sawfly larvae look a bit like caterpillars and can quickly munch through leaves.’

‘To keep pests under control, try using natural sprays and regularly check plants for larvae. To get rid of aphids, they can often be removed by spraying them off with a jet of water or simply picking them off by hand,’ adds Chris.

Are your roses looking fabulous right now? Share your favourite rose care tips and tricks with us.

A blue hydrangea is the jewel in the crown of any British garden; however, certain varieties can change colour if certain conditions are not met. This can spell disaster if the last thing you want creeping into your garden is a frothy pink or purple bloom.

If you want to keep your plant beautifully blue, rather than pink, you need to maintain high levels of soil acidity. To keep a hydrangea blue, you need a pH of less than 5.5. If the pH rises to between 5.5 and 6.5, the blooms will turn purple, and if it goes above a pH of 6.5, the flowers will turn pink.

Another key factor, however, is also knowing which hydrangea to plant. The colour-changing power of hydrangeas is limited to mophead and lacecap varieties. This means if your hydrangea isn't one of these varieties, the colour will remain the same regardless of the pH of the soil.

1. Use a hydrangea colourant

Where you plant your hydrangea is key in determining the colour of the blooms – acidic soil will result in blue flowers, alkaline soil will create pink blues. So if you want to keep a hydrangea blue, you need acid soil.

A pH soil monitor is your best friend if hoping to keep a hydrangea blue. Traditional methods of testing soil pH involved soil testing kits – like these from Amazon – where you mix a soil sample with water, dip the tester strip in the solution and compare its colour to the guide. However, there are now lots of digital measures – like Sonkir monitor from Amazon – that make monitoring the soil pH a breeze.

If you find your plot a little on the alkaline side, then you'll be relieved to discover that there are several ways to change soil pH; one of the easiest is to use a hydrangea colourant – such as this Westland hydrangea colourant on Amazon. This product – and similar ones like this Vitax colourant on Amazon – are made from iron and aluminium salts, which acidify the soil and will help keep a hydrangea blue.

Specific instructions vary, and you should always follow the manufacturer's instructions. However, applying the colourant once while planting, then using the product as a regular feed (typically weekly) will help to keep a hydrangea blue.

'Pale pink varieties tend to blue best, with the darker pink varieties tending to produce mauve/blue flowers,' says experts from Vitax.

2. Use household waste to up the acidity of the soil

If you're looking for a budget garden idea to turn a pink hydrangea blue, there are plenty of quick hacks online.

A common one is to use a teabag to change your hydrangea's colour. ‘Burying used tea bags in the soil will change the colour of hydrangeas because the tea contains tannic acid, which lowers the pH level of the soil and increases its acidity,’ says Graham Smith MCIHort, a gardening expert from LBS Horticulture.

You could also try using coffee grounds in the garden or even watering your hydrangea with a cup of coffee every day (it may be worth buying a cheap instant coffee for the project).

While these methods are a fun experiment and often do work, Graham does note that using aluminium sulphate (£5.35 on Amazon) is a more reliable method.

Also, be careful in which hacks you try. If your goal is to keep a hydrangea blue, then avoid using fire pit ash in your garden, as this will increase the soil's alkalinity. For the same reason, you should never use eggshells around the base of a hydrangea.

3. Grow it in a pot

If you have no luck with maintaining the right levels of acid in the border. It is a good idea to try growing hydrangeas in pots. This gives you total control over the soil acidity.

Choosing one of the best hydrangea varieties for pots will set you up for success – just ensure they are also mophead and lacecap varieties. Crocus's Love mophead hydrangea would be a great option; you can buy a two-litre pot for £24.99.

Planting in ericaceous soil is essential if you want blue blooms, and it's readily available – B&Q stocks it at £7 for 50ltrs. Ericaceous compost is sometimes sold as azalea, rhododendron, and/or camellia compost, but it is typically the same product and will help keep a hydrangea blue.

Why are my hydrangeas turning pink?

If your hydrangeas are turning pink, then it is because your soil is alkaline. To turn a pink hydrangea blue, you need to raise the acidity in the soil. The best way to do this is with a hydrangea colourant or by adding aluminium sulphate to the soil.

How long does it take to turn a hydrangea blue?

It take a long time to turn a hydrangea blue – typically several months as a minimum. Larger plants will also take longer than smaller ones. It may be the case that you don't see the results of your efforts in the following year's blooms.

What often strikes me about UK summers is that they can really feel like you’re on holiday when the weather’s hot and the sun is shining. To really nail the holiday-from-home aesthetic, though, it’s worth adding a few of the best Mediterranean plants for pots to your garden.

There’s a broad selection of plants that best create a Mediterranean garden scheme, but some are better suited to container-growing than others. In fact, pots provide even more drainage than garden borders, which is ideal for Mediterranean plants that prefer free-draining soils.

Whether you’re looking for a fruit tree, an evergreen shrub or vibrant flowers, there really is something for everyone – and they’ll all thrive in heatwaves and dry summers. Here’s a roundup of my favourite potted Mediterranean plants for pots.

Pots for a Mediterranean garden

1. Olive trees

Olive trees are Mediterranean garden staples, and when the sun is shining, the one in my garden makes me feel like I’m on holiday. You’ll often spot olive trees in garden borders, but they’ll also feel right at home in a pot.

‘When choosing Mediterranean plants for pots, it's usually the classics that work best," says Jo McGarry, luxury garden design expert at Caragh Nurseries.

‘Olive trees are always a great option because they add so much character and don't need a huge amount of space. They have that lovely, relaxed look that instantly makes an outdoor area feel more Mediterranean.’

If you’re lucky, the trees will produce olives in hot summers, too. This terracotta olive pot from Crocus is perfect for olive trees.

Where to buy olive trees:

• B&Q: Order a large olive tree in a 4-litre pot.
• Amazon: Or, go for a much tinier Gardeners Dream olive tree.

2. Lavender

Lavender is popular for a reason – not only does it produce a soothing fragrance when it’s in flower, but it’s also one of the best drought-tolerant plants you can add to your garden, which means it can cope better in heatwaves and dry weather than other container plants.

‘Lavender is another plant that's perfectly suited to life in a container,’ says Jo. ‘It loves sunshine, smells amazing and brings lots of colour through the warmer months.’

Where to buy lavender plants:

• Gardening Express: English lavender 'Hidcote Blue' is one of the most popular varieties.
• M&S: Buy a lavender plant in a pretty terracotta pot.

3. Bay trees

When it comes to the best Mediterranean plants for pots, bay trees are another go-to for me. I grew up with a bay tree in my mum’s garden border, but they’re perfectly suited to container life, too.

‘Bay trees work really well in pots and are one of those plants that look good whatever the season,’ agrees Jo.

To really nail the Mediterranean oasis look, it’s wise to think about the type of pot you choose, too.

‘Plants can be paired with classic terracotta pots for a natural look, or with ceramic and recycled polyrattan options for a more contemporary feel,’ says Rachel Horton, retail lead at Patch Plants.

These classic Italian terracotta pots from Crocus are available in a range of different sizes.

Where to buy bay trees:

• YouGarden: Order a pair of standard bay trees.
• Thompson & Morgan: Bay 'Pyramid' thrives in pots, too.

4. Rosemary

Rosemary is one of the best drought-tolerant plants that’s safe for dogs, so it’s a win-win for small garden pots. It’s an incredibly climate-resilient herb, and ideal if you enjoy taking fresh harvests into the kitchen.

‘Rosemary is a brilliant option,’ agrees Jo. ‘It's tough, easy to grow, and its flowers attract bees and other pollinators, adding a bit of extra life to the garden.’

Where to buy rosemary:

• B&Q: Order a rosemary plant in a terracotta pot.
• Crocus: Order rosemary in a range of sizes.

5. Citrus trees

You might overlook citrus trees as Mediterranean plants that are suitable for pots here in the UK, but both Jo and Rachel think that they’re ideal for gardens with milder microclimates.

‘For something a little more eye-catching, a citrus tree is hard to beat,’ says Jo. ‘Give it a warm, sheltered spot, and it will reward you with scented flowers, fruit and that unmistakable Mediterranean feel.’

Where to buy citrus trees:

• Bloom & Wild: The Orange Tree comes in a seagrass basket.
• YouGarden: Or, go for a Sicilian Lemon Tree.

Which Mediterranean plants will you be planting in pots this summer?

Putting up a bird feeder is one of the easiest ways to support garden wildlife, but knowing where not to put a bird feeder is just as important as what you fill it with. The wrong spot can leave birds vulnerable to predators, increase the risk of disease, or put them off visiting altogether.

When it comes to caring for garden birds, most people focus on what to feed birds in a garden. But following updated guidance from the RSPB on the spread of the deadly finch disease trichomonosis, knowing where to position a feeder is just as important. Placement plays a key role in reducing contamination and helping birds feed safely.

The good news is that small tweaks to your setup can make all the difference. Here are the spots experts warn you should avoid when it comes to bird feeder placement - and what to do instead.

1. Leaving it in the same spot for too long

This one surprises most people, but the RSPB warns that leaving bird feeders in the same spot in your garden can allow waste, seed husks and droppings to accumulate, increasing the risk of disease.

'We advise that the position of bird feeders are rotated around your outdoor space, to reduce the likelihood of contaminated food building up beneath a feeder,' says Charlotte Ambrose, wildlife expert at the RSPB.

The RSPB guidance is to give bird feeders a thorough clean every week, which is also when you should rotate them. 'This is a great time to then also move them to a new spot once cleaned, and once any existing debris beneath feeders has been cleared up,' advises Charlotte.

This is especially important when feeding birds during wet weather - heavy rain can increase the build-up of contaminated food and droppings beneath a feeder - making regular rotation even more of a priority.

2. Next to a window

Next to a window might seem like the perfect spot to place a bird feeder, but it can significantly increase the risk of collisions as many birds struggle to identify a reflection in a window.

Dick Woods, founder of Finches Friend Nature warns that window collisions are one of the most common significant threats to birds.

'Never place a feeder next to a window,' he says. 'When a feeder is placed beside glass, birds see the reflection of the garden, not the barrier. If startled, they can take off at speed and fly straight into the window.'

To reduce risk, place feeders well away from windows, or use a purpose-built window feeder with a controlled, close-range feeding design that slows bird movement and reduces the risk of collision.

3. Close to fences or dense cover

While it might feel logical to tuck bird feeders against hedges or fences for shelter, it can be exactly the kind of spot a cat will stake out.

'Position feeders away from dense shrubs, thick hedges, or fence lines where predators can easily ambush birds,' advises Sean McMenemy, wildlife expert at Ark Wildlife.

Charlotte also adds that while it can be tempting to attach feeders to a fence, this practice can make it easier for rats to reach the feed and for cats to prey on feeding birds.

The ideal positioning is near, but not touching a tree, bush or hedge. 'Try to position feeders near either bushes or a hedge, so that there is cover close enough by that birds can dart into if needed, but not so close that predators could be lying in wait,' says Charlotte.

A useful rule of thumb, Charlotte adds, is that birds prefer a clear 360-degree view of their surroundings while feeding.

4. Underneath a tree

Hanging a bird feeder from a tree sounds like a natural spot, but placing it directly beneath branches can create several problems.

'The RSPB recommends not placing feeders underneath trees,' Charlotte says. 'This can unwittingly provide a spot for predators to sit and wait, and can also result in bird droppings from perching birds landing on feeders.'

If you do want to use a tree, hang the feeder from the end of an extending branch or bracket away from the trunk, so it sits clear of the main canopy.

5. On flat surfaces or bird tables with trays

Bird tables and feeders with attached flat trays look charming and traditional, but the RSPB is now actively warning against using them.

'Our scientific research has confirmed that flat feeding surfaces carry a higher risk of Trichomonosis spreading between birds,' says Charlotte. 'So we’re asking the public to retire feeders with flat surfaces, such as bird tables and feeders with attached trays, including window feeders.'

Instead opt for hanging tube or mesh feeders, which keep food moving and helps prevent contamination from building up.

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Where is the best place to put a bird feeder?

'The best location for a bird feeder is one that balances safety, shelter and visibility,' says Sean McMenemy, wildlife expert at Ark Wildlife. 'In UK gardens, feeders should ideally be positioned near, but not directly touching, trees or shrubs, providing birds with a quick escape route if they feel threatened.'

Sean says it's also important to choose a sheltered location that protects food from strong winds and excessive sun while maintaining a clear view of the surrounding area. 'A quiet part of the garden, away from heavy foot traffic and road noise, will help birds feel more secure and encourage regular visits throughout the year.'

By choosing a sheltered spot with nearby cover and a clear line of sight, you'll create a feeding station that is both safer and more attractive to visiting birds.

With concerns around trichomonosis and other diseases growing, getting bird feeder placement right has never been as important. A few simple changes can help keep visiting birds safer while encouraging them to return to your garden year-round.

In June, fertiliser can give our flowering and fruiting plants the boost they need to produce even more blooms and harvests – but according to experts, overfeeding your plants could invite one troublesome pest into your garden.

The pest in question? The infamous aphid – and while there are plenty of ways to get rid of aphids, prevention is usually better than cure. They’re common antagonists of peas, roses and a range of other plants, and they can wreak havoc on an otherwise productive garden.

Here’s why overfeeding your plants can attract aphids – and what to do if you’ve already given them too much fertiliser.

Aphids are among the most active garden plant pests at this time of the year, and that activity multiplies rapidly when you overfeed your plants. Not just any type of fertiliser, though; it’s feeds that are high in nitrogen, specifically, that you’ll need to watch out for.

‘Don’t overfeed with nitrogen,’ warns heirloom seed company She Grows Veg. ‘Aphids love new growth, and too much nitrogen encourages exactly that.’

It’s actually the smell of overfed plants that attracts aphids in the first place.

‘When plants are overfed with nitrogen, they produce a stronger scent which aphids can detect,’ explains Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation.

‘They know that following the scent to its source will lead to a plant which will be easy for them to feed on and provide them with high-quality sap, packed full of amino acids and proteins which enable them to reproduce even faster.’

So, striking the right balance is key when it comes to feeding your plants in June. You could even make your own balanced feed.

‘Balance feeding with a mix of compost, seaweed feed and slow-release organic fertiliser to create healthy plants,’ says She Grows Veg.

For example, you could mix this The Shropshire Seaweed Company Organic Seaweed, available at Amazon, with this Envii Allgrow, which you can also buy from Amazon.

If you think you’ve already overfed your plants, don’t panic. The first thing you’ll need to do, of course, is stop feeding your plants – but Lucie says that if your plants are part of your container garden, you can also flush the soil of excess nutrients.

‘With plants in containers, this is a simple process of using lukewarm clean water to pour over the soil until it drains out of the base of the pot, which will flush out the buildup of nutrients,’ she explains.

‘You need to give yourself a couple of hours in order to completely clean out the soil, pouring the water onto the surface of the soil until it starts to drain from the base, leaving for about 15 minutes to completely drain and then repeating the process again and again – ideally, flushing water through the soil three times.’

June plant feeding kit

Even though feeding your plants is one of the most important June garden jobs, going to heavy with nitrogen fertilisers can do them more harm than good!

We like these kinds of plants – those that love bad soil, shade and neglect! If you're new to gardening and the three above are all you have, it's a matter of finding out what works. We can't all be blessed with gardens that all plants love, and improving your soil can take time.

'If you’ve got a shady spot with poor soil and not much time to spare, the secret is to choose plants that are already happy in those conditions,' says Julian Palphramand, head of plants, British Garden Centres.

Below, with the help of experts like Julian, we list our top five low-maintenance plants to try in your space this year.

1. Hellebores

'Woodland plants and tough evergreens are the best performers here, as they’re used to less light and less-than-perfect ground – we recommend hellebores as one option,' suggests Julian.

Hellebores are hardy and give you that first flush of colour from mid-winter to mid-spring. They're plants that love shady spots and provide an early boost of nectar for pollinators.

They come in a wider range of colours than you may think, from whites and creams, to pinks, reds and yellows and bicolours.

The most seen is the dusky pink – we like the Helleborus x hybrides 'Maid of Honour', currently £9.74 for a 9cm pot from Crocus.

If you'd like something a little different, then opt for the hellebore 'Breeder's Mix', £22.99 for five jumbo plug plants from Dobies. You get a mix of yellows, greens, apricots and reds.

2. Yarrow

Yarrow, or as it's sometimes known, Achillea millefolium, is a hardy perennial with clusters of small flat-topped flowers that come in different colours.

It's rather dainty-looking, but very resilient. Richard Baker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture says, 'Yarrow is capable of growing in poor soil, and can tolerate a range of soil types as long as it is not waterlogged. It is also good for growing in gravel gardens. Once established, yarrow does not need a lot of care and is drought-tolerant.'

It does need a little care, though. Richard advises cutting back old foliage in spring and deadheading the plant in summer to encourage more flowers. 'You do not need to fertilise yarrow, as this can actually do more harm than good by making the stems weak and the plant produce fewer flowers,' he adds.

For punchy colour, we love the Summer Berries collection that includes 12 garden-ready plants, currently £11.99 from Suttons. For a more classical, elegant look, opt for the pure white achillea millefolium from Crocus, presently £6.74 for a 9cm pot.

3. Lady's mantle

Also known as alchemilla mollie, Lady's Mantle is a very hardy perennial that thrives in most soil types and is rarely affected by pests and disease.

Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation, explains, 'It's the perfect low-maintenance ground cover, forming healthy velvety green, scalloped leaves which suppress weeds. Whilst making the perfect addition to informal borders and cottage gardens, its water-trapping leaves shimmer after a shower, and during the summer months it produces gorgeous sprays of chartreuse/ lime green flowers which form the perfect backdrop to other bright blooms within your summer garden.'

You can buy it from Gardening Express for £7.99 for a 1-litre pot. Add it to your garden borders and pathways for a lush-looking display.

4. Hardy geranium

'A hardy geranium is a low-maintenance, resilient perennial that returns year after year – cranesbill – its other name – is a great addition to any garden,' says Lucie. 'Not only do they produce an abundance of blooms continuously from late spring through to the first frost, but their dense foliage is also excellent for covering bare soil, with their attractive leaves suppressing weeds.'

There are over 700 varieties to choose from; Lucie recommends selecting the ideal ones for your garden based on size, colour and habitat.

'For example, geranium ‘Rozanne’ is great for a nearly continuous display of large, saucer-shaped violet-blue blooms with white centres,' suggests Lucie. You can buy this variety from Thompson & Morgan, £11.99 for a 9cm pot.

'In contrast, if you prefer a vibrant splash of colour, choose geranium ‘Elke’ which produces masses of small, bright pink flowers with white trim and veining from July to September,' adds Lucie. This is available from J.Parkers, you can buy a single litre pot for £9.99, or three for £21.97.

5. Lavender

'Once established, lavender can thrive on neglect and prefers being in dry soil instead of rich soil,' advises Richard.

The beauty of growing lavender varieties is that they can survive outside in temperatures as low as -15°C, meaning that they can be left outside all year. '

Richard adds, 'Although newly planted lavender will need watering well in its first year, established lavender is drought-tolerant and will rarely need watering unless there is a severe drought. As it likes soil that is low in nutrients, it will not need fertilising. However, the plant will need trimming annually after it has finished flowering so that it does not grow to be too woody.'

If you want to plant a lavender hedge, then this lavendula English dwarf variety is a good choice, £15 for a pack of six, Amazon. For extra fragrance and a more magenta-purple colour, the Purple Flag French lavender produces bushy plants that are full of buds and blooms in season, currently £5.99 for a 2-3 litre pot, Gardening Express.

Shopping essentials for low maintenance planting

Follow our guide above on what low-maintenance plants will thrive. 'The key is to give them a decent start: add a little organic matter when you plant and top with a mulch to help them settle in, hold moisture and keep weeds down. Once they’re established, they’ll look after themselves far better than anything that wants rich soil and full sun,' shares Julian.

A north-facing balcony can be a challenging position for plants, but that doesn’t mean you can’t grow a thriving garden on one. It’s just about choosing the best plants for a north-facing balcony.

More apartment owners and renters are getting into gardening than ever, which is why balcony garden ideas are so popular right now. Not all of us are blessed with an east-, west- or south-facing outdoor space, though, which is why north-facing garden ideas are perhaps the most crucial to creating a productive space in shadier conditions.

I’ve rounded up a list of the best plants for a north-facing balcony garden, handpicked by the experts, to help you infuse your outdoor space with flowers, foliage and harvests.

Balcony growing essentials

1. Ferns

Low-maintenance ferns thrive in shadier conditions, which means they’re perfect for north-facing balconies. They’ll add lush greenery to pots, planters and hanging baskets, and if you choose evergreen varieties (try this Evergreen Hardy Fern Collection from YouGarden), they’ll stay green all year round.

‘For shadier balconies, it’s just about picking plants that are happy without full sun,’ says Jo McGarry, a leading expert in luxury garden design from Caragh Nurseries. ‘Ferns are solid choices and still look really good in containers.

‘If you’re short on space, I’d go for a few bigger pots rather than loads of small ones. It looks better, and it’s way easier to keep everything watered.’

Where to buy ferns:

• Crocus: Dryopteris erythrosora is a deciduous fern that starts out coppery-red before maturing to dark green.
• Gardening Express: Cyrtomium fortunei var. clivicola produces leathery evergreen fronds.

2. Begonias

Begonias are popular for their bold, colourful blooms, which have brilliant staying power from late spring to autumn, depending on the variety. I always assumed that flowers like that needed plenty of sunshine – but I was wrong!

‘For shadier spots such as north-facing balconies, begonias provide long-lasting colour without needing direct sun,’ says Lance Russell, horticultural expert at Thompson & Morgan.

I can actually vouch for begonias being a brilliant north-facing garden plant, because my mum’s potted begonias flower beautifully in her north-west-facing front garden. They're a similar colour to Begonia 'Funky Pink', which you can order from Thompson & Morgan.

Where to buy begonias:

• Thompson & Morgan: Begonia x tuberhybrida 'Apricot Shades Improved' F1 produces fiery blooms.
• Marshalls Garden: Begonia 'Nonstop Mocca Light Pink Shades' is on my list to grow.

3. Fuchsias

Learning how to grow fuchsias is an absolute joy, because they produce masses of pretty flowers in shades from mid-summer all the way through to the autumn. As luck would have it, they’re one of the very best plants for a north-facing balcony.

‘When it comes to summer colour on a shady north-facing balcony, fuchsias are one of my top picks,’ says Pim Dickson, senior horticultural manager at Fothergill's. ‘Their exquisite blooms are a delight, and, paired with the hot, jewel-like colours of begonias, they lend a wonderfully exotic feel to what might otherwise be a challenging spot.’

Where to buy fuchsias:

• Gardening Express: Buy a pair of 'Purple-Red Angela' standard fuchsia trees, already in bloom.
• Crocus: Fuchsia 'Heidi Ann' produces delicate pink blooms.

4. Hostas

Hostas are a popular classic in UK gardens for a reason: they’re low-maintenance, produce stunning, bold foliage, and thrive in shady spaces. They’re another recommendation of Pim’s for north-facing balcony plants.

‘Hostas are a favourite of mine for creating a lush, leafy backdrop to flowering plants, and with such a wide variety available, you can craft a stunning leaf-scape,’ he says. ‘A top tip here: always double-check any incoming pots and plants for slugs, snails and their eggs. Do that, and your balcony hostas will look pristine right up to the first frosts.’

Some copper slug tape, like this from Amazon, will create a barrier that keeps slugs away from pots.

Where to buy hostas:

• B&Q: Pick up Hosta 'Purple Heart' in a 9cm pot for two-tone leaves.
• Crocus: Hosta 'Francee' has white margins on its leaves.

5. Evergreen bittersweet

Another evergreen plant you can grow in pots on a north-facing balcony is evergreen bittersweet, sometimes known as fortune’s spindle. It’s a tough shrub that sits perfectly happy in a shadier spot.

‘For year-round structure and privacy, leafy evergreens like Euonymus fortunei are a brilliant choice,’ says Pim. ‘They tolerate shade beautifully and, because they're evergreen, will help provide both privacy and a little screening from colder northerly winds throughout the year. Like hostas, they come in a fantastic range of interesting leaf colours, so there's plenty of room to get creative.’

Where to buy evergreen bittersweet:

• Crocus: Order 2-litre pots of variegated Euonymus fortunei 'Silver Queen'.
• Debenhams: Euonymus fortunei 'Harlequin' is a little more unusual.

There are plenty of other shade-loving plants for pots that will feel right at home on a north-facing balcony.

We know from Nigella's TV shows that she's always adored fairy lights, and we noticed on her Instagram over the weekend that she's adorned her garden too.

Her magical fairy light display proves that more really is more when it comes to garden lighting. The post shows a beautiful tree canopy with a stunning array of fairy lights hanging below.

'Nigella's courtyard is proof that you never need to hold back on fairy lights,' shares Thalia Shaw, founder of Sparkle Lighting. 'Greenery and fairy lights are the perfect mix, and the warm glow layered through the foliage turns an ordinary courtyard into a magical oasis.'

The big question is, 'Can you have too many fairy lights?' And of course what types work best...

'Like in any part of the home, lights can make or break the atmosphere in a garden setting,' explains Claire Bassett, head of product at Lights4Fun. 'You ideally want gentle lighting that ensures the space feels elevated and lit enough, without overpowering the space or detracting from the atmosphere.'

Claire recommends a combination of outdoor string and fairy lights to create an impactful look. 'Swagging string lights or festoon lighting also adds a nice touch, forming a canopy overhead and adding a true cinema-feel.'

For a subtle look, choose fairy lights that have a clear cable. We like the Essential Connect 10m 100 warm white connectable fairy lights, £11.99 from Lights4Fun.

How many fairy lights does it take to create Nigella's look? We asked Thalia for a prediction – 'It's hard to say for sure, but approximately 120 metres in length and 1,500 LEDs!'

'What makes it work so beautifully is the structure,' adds Thalia. 'The lights are all the same style and colour temperature, with a clear start and end point that guides the eye through the space. It's that sense of cohesion and purpose that makes the display feel magical rather than messy.'

Recreate Nigella's fairy lights look

What's also noticeable is the lovely walkway towards the fairy light canopy area. Nigella has used containers along each side filled full with stunning mid-pink foxgloves and garden-style roses.

Underneath the fairy light-lit area is a pink table and chairs set, which really adds to the beautiful summer scene that Nigella has created – for similar, have a look at B&Q's MOF 3-piece folding bistro set in pink, £69.99.

How to style it

Now is the perfect time of year to create your own dreamy fairy garden, ready for those barmy summer evenings spent chilling with friends and family.

Warm summer evenings are made for open windows, but they're also when outside noise tends to be at its loudest. Late-night garden gatherings, children playing outside, or bass from a nearby speaker can quickly leave you wanting to block the sound of noisy neighbours from your bedroom.

The good news is that you don't need to invest in a huge renovation to soundproof your bedroom and help you sleep better. 'Even quiet sound from next door stops your brain switching off properly,' explains Ben Hancock, managing director of Oscar Acoustics. 'Bedrooms feel worse because we expect peace there. The daytime hum is gone, so every creak or thud upstairs lands harder.'

From strategic furniture placement to simple upgrades that absorb sound, these expert-approved fixes can help block out neighbour noise and create a more restful sleep space.

1. Seal gaps around doors and windows

One thing you shouldn't do, says Ben, is treat only one surface when trying to block out unwanted noise.

'Sound behaves like water, it pours through any opening,' he says. A gap under the bedroom door, poorly fitted window frames or spaces around skirting boards can let in a surprising amount of airborne noise - the sound of the TV, the radio and neighbours' voices - even when everything appears shut.

Ben is clear on where to start. 'Seal every gap. Acoustic sealant or draught excluders around doors and skirting will cut airborne noise.'

In practice, this means working around the room methodically. As well as using draught excluders around doors, draught-proofing your windows can help reduce gaps that let sound travel indoors. A brush-style or rubber door sweep tackles gaps at the bottom of the door.

For small cracks around skirting boards or window frames, acoustic sealant is worth choosing over standard filler because it stays flexible and won't crack over time.

2. Layer your windows with heavy curtains

If outside noise is disturbing your sleep, your windows are often the first place to look. While shutting them can help reduce the sound of neighbours chatting in the garden or hosting a late-night gathering, your bedroom curtain ideas can make a surprising difference.

'One of the most effective budget-friendly updates is adding heavier curtains, particularly if you currently have blinds or lightweight window dressings,' advises Martha Ferreira, interior designer at built-to-rent neighbourhood, Present Made.

Look for dense, lined fabrics, such as velvet, thermal-lined curtains or heavyweight woven material. 'Soft, dense materials are your best allies when it comes to sound absorption,' says Martha. 'They help to create a bedroom that feels noticeably calmer and quieter.'

If replacing your curtains isn't an option, adding a thermal or blackout blind can also help.

3. Use upholstered furniture and textiles to soften shared walls

Hard, bare surfaces such as painted walls, wood floors and large mirrors reflect sound rather than absorb it, which can make any noise from next door seem louder and more noticeable.

When designing a quieter bedroom, Martha says she focuses on creating layers between the sleeper and the source of the noise.

'Upholstered headboards, full-height curtains, large rugs, and well-filled bookshelves can all help soften sound within the room,' she says.

Ben echoes this. 'Heavy soft furnishings, like thick rugs, a padded headboard or a bookcase packed with books along a shared wall, can cut airborne noise.'

4. Rearrange your layout to create distance between you and the noise

This is the fix that often costs nothing but can be easily overlooked. If your bed is pushed against a wall shared with your neighbour, you're sleeping as close as possible to the source of the problem.

'Positioning the bed away from a shared wall where possible can make a noticeable difference,' Martha points out. 'The goal isn't necessarily to eliminate every sound, but to create an environment that feels calmer.'

Placing a large wardrobe, chest of drawers or bookcase against a shared wall before repositioning the bed can also help. Large, solid furniture pieces create an extra layer between you and the source of the noise.

5. Mask disruptive sounds while you sleep

Even with all the above in place, some noise will inevitably find its way through the walls and into your bedroom. While a white noise machine won't stop sound travelling through walls or floors, it can be surprisingly effective at disguising low-level disturbances such as distant TVs and muffled conversations.

'A fan or white noise machine masks low-level hum,' says Ben. A dedicated sound machine, like the Dreamegg available on Amazon, offers more consistent, non-looping audio than a phone app - with many including multiple sound options, from fan noise to rain. Alternatively, the best bedside fan serves a dual purpose in the summer; it keeps the room cooler while producing a gentle, consistent background noise.

What to buy

Even just tackling one or two of these fixes can help block the sound of noisy neighbours from your bedroom, and make a noticeable difference to how peaceful your bedroom feels.

Ever heard of the Chelsea chop? It’s a pruning technique that’s typically carried out between late May and early June – and since June is whizzing by at speed, there are a fair few plants you should give the Chelsea chop before the window closes.

The Chelsea chop is as simple as cutting herbaceous perennials back by a third, and it can work magic on their performance. It’ll delay flowering for a couple of weeks, but then you’ll enjoy a fuller, stabler round of blooms later in the season.

As long as they haven’t already started flowering yet, you can give these plants the Chelsea chop now. This list is by no means extensive – a broad range of herbaceous perennials benefit from the Chelsea chop – but I’ve rounded up a few of the most popular types.

What you'll need

1. Summer phlox

Summer phlox (Phlox paniculata) generally begins flowering from mid-summer, so now is the time to give your plant the Chelsea chop.

‘Also known as the ‘Chelsea Chop’, this is the best time to give plants like phlox a hard prune, removing up to half the foliage and stems,’ says Tim Clapp, head of range and qualified botanist at Verve. ‘This helps to delay flowering and create an overall sturdier plant, preventing them from becoming too floppy and leggy.’

Make sure you use a sharp pair of high-quality secateurs, like these Spear & Jackson Razorsharp Advantage Bypass Secateurs, which you can buy from Amazon.

2. Verbena

If you want to encourage bees and butterflies to your garden, verbena is one of the best herbaceous perennials you can grow. Flowering usually begins in June, so if your plant hasn't quite burst into bloom, it’s worth squeezing in the Chelsea chop this weekend.

‘I give my Verbena bonariensis a modest ‘Chelsea chop’ in May, cutting them down by about a third,’ says Annelise Brilli, Thompson & Morgan’s horticultural expert. ‘This results in stockier, shorter plants with more flowering side shoots.’

Although Annelise gives her verbena the Chelsea chop in May, you can still perform the pruning technique if your plants haven’t started flowering yet.

3. Asters

Asters offer vibrant pops of colour in garden pots and borders, and their potential as an autumn-flowering perennial only gets bigger if you give them the Chelsea chop.

‘The Chelsea chop works best on a wide range of late-flowering perennials,’ says Julian from British Garden Centres. 'June is the best time to prune plants like asters. 'Make your cuts just above a set of leaves or buds, which encourages new growth from that point.'

It's wise to clean your garden tools before and after pruning, and you can buy eco-friendly solutions like Agralan Citrox Ready to Use Natural Disinfectant Spray (available at Amazon).

4. Coneflowers

Coneflowers, or Echinacea, are another plant you should give the Chelsea chop now. They typically begin flowering from mid-summer, so they're excellent examples of perennials to cut back in June.

'After pruning, give your plants a good watering and consider applying a liquid plant feed to help them recover and encourage strong, healthy growth,' advises Julian.

This Miracle-Gro All-Purpose Concentrated Liquid Plant Food from Amazon is budget-friendly and highly rated.

5. Penstemons

Penstemons are another recommendation of Julian's for plants you should give the Chelsea chop, but you'll have to act fast before they start flowering.

'Early June is the sweet spot to prune some of the plants in your garden, and the Chelsea chop is a simple way to make sure your outdoor space is thriving throughout summer,' says Julian. 'This simple pruning method can dramatically improve the appearance and health of your gardens, so get chopping now!'

This list of plants you should give the Chelsea chop covers some of the most popular herbaceous perennials, but you can also give varieties like campanula, hardy geraniums and upright sedums a prune this week, too. Just make sure they haven't started flowering already!

If you've ever wondered whether roses like coffee grounds, the answer is yes, but only when they're used in moderation.

Coffee grounds have long been recommended as a free, eco-friendly way to feed plants, and while roses are included on lists of plants that love coffee grounds, experts say there's a right and wrong way to use them. Adding too much can actually create problems for your roses, even though this is a really popular gardening hack.

While you might want to throw it straight from your coffee machine's grounds container, it's worth noting that there are places you should never put coffee grounds in your garden, as some plants and soil conditions simply won't respond well to them.

'Coffee grounds can be used on roses, but only in the right way,' explains Jo McGarry, a leading expert in garden design from Caragh Nurseries. They're not a magic fix, but they can be useful in small amounts.' And here's why and how to use them correctly to benefit your roses.

Why coffee grounds can help roses

One of the main reasons gardeners use coffee grounds on roses is that they can improve soil health.

As Jo explains, you'll often notice more worms where coffee grounds have been used, which is a positive sign for soil quality. 'You'll also often notice more worms, which is always a good sign, and roses do tend to like that kind of healthy soil.'

Gardening expert Lucie Bradley from Easy Garden Irrigation says used coffee grounds can benefit a wide range of garden plants, from acid-loving favourites such as azaleas, lilies and lupins to hungry plants like begonias and roses.

If you're learning how to grow roses successfully, feeding is one of the most important things to get right. Roses are particularly demanding plants that need a steady supply of nutrients throughout the growing season. Lucie explains that nitrogen is especially important because it helps produce strong stems and healthy foliage, which ultimately fuels flower production.

'Being able to recycle your coffee grounds to boost nitrogen for your roses is a simple, free way to help them without having to rely solely on chemical fertilisers,' she says.

She adds that coffee grounds provide not only nitrogen but also smaller amounts of potassium, phosphorus and micronutrients, including calcium, copper and magnesium. Added to the soil, they act as a slow-release fertiliser, gradually releasing nutrients over time.

Richard Barker, Horticulture expert at LBS Horticulture, also highlights that they help feed beneficial soil microbes, improving overall soil health and making nutrients more available to plants.

The coffee ground mistake gardeners make

The biggest misconception is that more coffee grounds equal healthier roses.

In reality, adding too much can cause problems. Richard warns that coffee grounds left sitting on the soil surface can lock together and form a water-resistant layer, making it harder to penetrate the soil.

To avoid this, he recommends using coffee grounds sparingly and working them into the soil rather than leaving them on the surface.

Jo agrees with this advice. 'If you're going to use them, I'd go easy. A light sprinkle around the base now and then is fine, or even better, pop them in the compost first so they've had a chance to break down properly.'

How to use coffee grounds on roses

Lucie recommends allowing used coffee grounds to dry completely before applying them.

'The best way to add used coffee grounds into the soil to help your roses is to first let them dry completely so that you are able to sprinkle them over the soil rather than using them as soggy clumps,' she explains.

Once dry, she recommends applying up to two tablespoons per plant around the base of the rose, taking care to avoid the main stem.

After sprinkling the grounds around the plants, gently work them into the top 10cm of soil with a hand rake and water thoroughly. This helps speed up decomposition, so the nutrients become available more quickly.

Lucie also says you can create a liquid feed by steeping used coffee grounds in water overnight and using the resulting 'coffee tea' around the base of your roses.

Is it better to compost coffee grounds first?

According to the experts I spoke to, composting coffee grounds is often the safest option. Adding them to your compost heap allows them to break down fully before they're applied to your borders, while also helping you make use of kitchen waste that would otherwise be thrown away.

Once composted, coffee grounds can be used around roses as part of a nutrient-rich homemade compost.

What else should you feed roses?

While coffee grounds can provide a small boost, the experts don't necessarily recommend relying on them as your main rose fertiliser.

'But if you want really good roses, coffee grounds are just a small part of it,' explains Jo. 'A proper rose feed in spring will always do more for growth and flowering.'

Richard recommends using a slow-release granular rose fertiliser, like Miracle-Gro's Rose & Shrub continuous release plant food, £8.49 at Amazon, in spring before new growth begins. Throughout the growing season, liquid seaweed feed, like Envii's SeaFeed Xtra, £13.95 at Amazon, can strengthen roots and improve plant resilience, while tomato feed can encourage stronger flowering thanks to its potassium content.

Jo is also a fan of organic soil improvers. 'Well rotted manure, like Westland's farmyard manure, which you can pick up at Amazon for £13.99, is also a really good option because it feeds the plant slowly while improving the soil at the same time. Seaweed feed is another useful choice if you want something a bit gentler through the growing season.

Lucie adds that banana peels can also be repurposed as a natural source of potassium for flowering plants, such as roses.

Shop rose-feeding essentials

So there you have it. Coffee grounds can certainly benefit roses, but they aren't the miracle ingredient they're sometimes made out to be.

Used occasionally, they can improve soil health, support beneficial microbes and add organic matter to your borders, but they're best used alongside a proper rose-feeding routine.

As Jo puts it: ' Once your soil is in good shape, roses are actually pretty straightforward to grow. Coffee grounds are a nice extra, but they're definitely not the main thing.'

Lavender is a Mediterranean staple, but it’s also one of the most common perennials in the UK. Right now, they’re bursting into bloom all over the country – and if you know what to do with lavender in June, those flowers will last all summer.

Learning how to grow lavender is actually really easy because it’s low-maintenance and really drought-tolerant. In June, it’s more about maintaining the plant’s health than giving it any extravagant care. In fact, less is more this month.

Here’s what you should be doing with lavender in June to get the best out of the scented perennials.

What you'll need

1. Keep watering to a minimum

Temperatures are set to rise again next week, but climate-resilient plants like lavender don't need as much water as you might think.

Since lavender is one of the best drought-tolerant plants out there, it actually doesn’t need too much hydration to survive.

'Water sparingly, only when the top few centimetres of soil have dried out, and always at the base rather than over the foliage,' says Annelise Brilli, Thompson & Morgan's horticultural expert. 'Established plants in the ground rarely need watering unless there is a prolonged dry spell.'

You’ll just need to be a little more attentive during heatwaves, especially if you’re growing lavender in pots.

2. Make sure it’s receiving plenty of sun

Lavender is a classic Mediterranean garden plant, which means it loves the sunshine. It’ll actually flower best in full sun, so if you’re growing container lavender in a shady spot, it’s wise to move it into a sunnier part of the garden.

‘In most cases, if your lavender is in a sunny spot and looks healthy, the best thing you can do is let it get on with it,’ says Jo McGarry, a leading expert in luxury garden design from Caragh Nurseries.

If you're looking to expand your lavender collection, Lavandula angustifolia 'Arctic Snow', which you can order from Crocus, produces stunning white flowers.

3. Remove weeds

It’s true that lavender is really low-maintenance, but few plants out there enjoy keeping weeds as company.

‘At this time of year, it's more about making sure it's getting plenty of sunshine and isn't being crowded by weeds or other plants,’ says Jo.

A weeder like this Draper Carbon Steel Heavy Duty Hand Weeder from Amazon is ideal for keeping on top of any competition, but there are plenty of other natural ways to get rid of weeds in the garden.

4. Prune lightly (if you have to!)

If you’re thinking about learning how to prune lavender, June might not be the month for it. According to Jo, it’s best to leave the plants to their own devices this month, since they’re already coming into bloom.

‘If there are a few dead bits or stray stems sticking out, feel free to tidy those up, but I'd leave any proper pruning until after flowering,’ advises Jo. ‘Cutting it back too early can mean missing out on some of the best parts of the display.’

So, ultra-light tidying is acceptable, but any hard pruning is a total no-no.

'Never cut into old, woody stems, as lavender rarely regrows from old wood and hard pruning can permanently damage the plant,' adds Annelise.

Add these pointers to your list of June garden jobs for lavender plants that thrive all summer.

Household recycling has become part of our daily routine, sorting and separating glass, plastics, paper and waste into different crates and bins. But while the sorting part is pretty simple, the problem of where to store everything before rubbish collection day rolls around can be a challenge.

Living in a terraced house with no side access to the back garden means that everything has to be stored in our tiny front garden. And with a large wheelie bin and various crates to make room for because of the latest recycling rules, there’s very little space to hide any of it… and it pains me every time I step outside the front door.

But determined not to let the wheelie bin completely dominate the space, I’ve come up with an easy cover-up that hasn’t cost me a fortune, together with some clever buys and easy garden ideas that will also help tackle the problem, including stylish wheelie bin storage ideas.

1. Hiding my bins with strategically-placed planters

With one large, tall wheelie bin and a couple of recycling crates that need to be stored in our small front garden, it has meant that they are always on show to passersby…which I hate (swipe to see the problem).

Tucking them up against the ivy-covered side fence makes the bin and crates feel a bit less visible from the road, and by gradually training the ivy along the front wall, it has created a corner of greenery that I can then tuck the wheelie bin into. Then, by placing a large planter with taller greenery just in front, the wheelie bin definitely feels a bit less ‘on show’.

To tackle the problem of the recycling crates, I then positioned a couple of lower planters around them, with colourful bedding plants and a few tall alliums so that the eyes are drawn to these (rather than the crates at the back). And covering the crates with wooden lids also helps to camouflage them a bit.

And lastly, because the wheelie bin and crates need to be pulled out and left kerbside on collection day, I’ve also gone for a lightweight wheeled planter (the circular one) that I can roll out of the way as needed.

A brilliant budget garden idea, for this I used a couple of mini castors, like these small fixed castors, £6.99 for 4, Amazon, and screwed them into the base of a lightweight plastic planter, like this Muddy Hands galvanised planter, £22.99, Amazon. Alternatively, you could always buy a planter on wheels, or a pot stand on wheels, £8.40, Dunelm, to rest an existing planter on.

2. Construct a cover-up

Alternatively, make use of your DIY skills and put together a custom-built cover-up or garden storage cupboard that can house the wheelie bin and recycling boxes so they’re hidden away from sight.

If you’re fairly DIY savvy, then constructing a simple timber framework shouldn’t be too tricky; it’s just a matter of adding a hinged door and cladding the exterior with wooden slats, panelling or shiplap cladding, from £11.97, B&Q. Choose a colour that complements your front garden and finish with garden paint or stain.

Alternatively, flat-pack bin stores are another easy option that is fairly straightforward to put together and are available in different sizes and configurations to suit the type and size of bins and boxes to be stored.

Shop for bin stores

3. Disguise with a green roof

Whether you’ve constructed your own bin store or gone for a purpose-built design, adding a green roof on top is an aesthetic upgrade that will make it more of a garden feature and help it blend more beautifully with the surroundings.

Adding a green roof involves creating a frame on top of your bin store and covering the surface with waterproof membrane, soil and gravel before planting up with low-maintenance plants like sedums, grasses and moss.

You can buy sedum matting to cut to size, like this fully-grown sedum carpet, £25.80, from Sedum Supply, or invest in a green roof kit, like this sedum flat roof kit, from £52.18 per sq m, Turf Online, which will provide all the essentials needed.

For a purpose-built bin store with a plantable top, try the double wheelie bin cover, £399.99, B&Q.

4. Create a mini wildlife garden

If you’re really keen to go green, then a wildlife-friendly garden idea like this open-sided bin store looks fabulous and is a great way of attracting pollinators to your front garden space. With a sturdy wood and metal frame, the BinDock Double, £850, from the Front Yard Company, has a lush green roof on top plus space underneath for two wheelie bins to be slotted in.

In addition to the green roof, the bin store also incorporates integral planters with wires on each side for growing climbing plants, as well as wooden bee nesting posts at each end that provide a place for bees to nest.

5. Conceal behind a screen

For a simple way of hiding your wheelie bin and recycling crates that involves minimal DIY, a simple trellis garden screen is an easy option worth considering. Depending on the size and shape of your front garden, you’ll need to buy a length of basic wooden trellis, like this pine trellis panel, from £37, B&Q, together with a couple of support posts to go at either end.

Keep the design basic, with a single trellis screen like this expanding trellis, £24.95 at Amazon, that spans the bin area, or construct a folding screen by adding hinges to two or more lengths of trellis, like these chrome hinges, £4.50 for two, Screwfix, which will give you more flexibility when positioning the screen around the bins.

Shop for garden screens

6. Camouflage with climbing greenery

Let nature lend a hand by training climbing foliage and flowers to create a colourful and fragrant cover-up for recycling bins and crates. If your front garden has an open picket-style fence or trellis screen, then climbing flowers and foliage like evergreen Star Jasmine, £19.95 for a 2L pot from QVC, make great natural camouflage that will detract from anything stored behind it.

Alternatively, growing a hedge in the front garden is another option that will provide more dense budget screening to help conceal a bin area. And by choosing a fast-growing hedge, you’ll ensure that you won’t have to wait too long for coverage.

Is your wheelie bin and recycling an eyesore? How do you tackle the problem... let us know.

When you're trying to sell your home, first impressions matter. Your front garden is one of the first things potential buyers see, so paying attention to the outside of your property can be just as important as updating the inside. In fact, experts say there are a number of front garden ideas that could add value to your home, while helping it stand out to buyers.

'Rather than focusing on major projects, concentrate on the details that create a positive arrival experience,' advises Nikki North, a property consultant at Redbrik Estate Agents. 'A sense of care and attention, and a frontage that feels inviting can often have a bigger impact than people realise.'

The good news is that many of the most effective ways for boosting kerb appeal can be affordable and easy to tackle. We asked estate agents to share the small front garden upgrades that can make the biggest difference when it comes to attracting buyers and maximising your home's value.

1. Refresh your front door

It's one of the most overlooked front garden upgrades, but painting your front door can instantly transform how the front of your home looks and feels.

'A clean, freshly painted front door can instantly make a property feel more welcoming and better cared for,' says Robin Edwards, a property buying agent at Curetons.

Nikki agrees. 'Refreshing your front door colour can instantly improve the appearance of a property,' she says. 'It's a relatively small investment, but it can help to create a much stronger overall impression.'

The smaller details around your entrance matter too. House numbers and letterboxes can look tired and worn over time, so updating them can give the front of your home a more polished look.

2. Tidy plants and borders

'Poor maintenance is one of the biggest issues for buyers, and an untidy front garden immediately creates the impression that the property may not have been cared for elsewhere,' warns Rob Twitchett, director of new homes at Beresfords.

You don't need to completely redesign your entire front garden to make it feel fresh - small tweaks can go a long way.

'Simple additions such as hanging baskets, planters and window boxes can transform the appearance of a home at relatively little cost,' adds Rob.

Making a strong first impression isn't necessarily about spending a lot of money; it's about creating a sense that the property has been looked after.

'A clear pathway to the front door, attractive planting, and a well-presented entrance can all help create that feeling,' says Nikki. 'I also think symmetry works surprisingly well, whether that's matching planters, balanced borders or a clearly framed front door.'

3. Hide bins and clutter from view

One thing that doesn't cost anything, but can be the difference between a good and bad first impression, is where you store your wheelie bins.

'A lack of thought around bin storage can quickly make a front garden look cluttered,' says Rob. 'There are now some excellent storage solutions available, from attractive timber enclosures to modern composite bin stores, which keep everything organised and out of sight.'

It's not just bins that can create the impression of clutter – recycling boxes, unused pots, children's toys and general clutter can quickly distract from the property itself.

'One of the biggest mistakes is treating the front garden as a storage space,' believes Nikki. 'Buyers want to appreciate the home at first glance, and anything that hides its best features can make it feel less appealing.'

4. Pressure wash your driveway and paths

Pressure washing a driveway can make a surprising difference to how the front of a property looks, and costs next to nothing if you already own a machine, or very little to hire one.

'Power washing driveways and paths can all be done relatively cheaply, but make a noticeable difference to first impressions,' says Robin.

Over time driveways gather moss, dirt and general grime that can make the entire front of the property feel uncared for. A thorough clean strips all that back and can dramatically improve the look of an ageing driveway.

5. Invest in outdoor lighting

One of the most commonly overlooked front garden upgrades that can add value to your home is garden lighting.

'Exterior lighting is often overlooked but can make a huge difference, particularly during darker months,' says Nikki. 'It's another relatively simple way to make the property look well cared for.'

Front porch lighting looks considered and inviting, whereas an unlit frontage can feel uninviting in the evenings.

Outdoor wall lights, such as wall-mounted lanterns, are a classic choice, while solar-powered path lights can be installed in minutes with no wiring required.

Shop front garden upgrades

What front garden upgrades should homeowners prioritise if they're trying to sell?

Nikki North, property consultant for Redbrik Estate Agents recommends asking yourself what draws your eye and what distracts from the home.

'I always advise homeowners to stand across the road and look at their property as if they're seeing it for the first time,' she says.

Before spending, prioritise cleanliness, maintenance and presentation, Robin Edwards, property buying agent suggests. 'A tidy, well-kept front garden that looks easy to maintain will appeal to far more buyers than an expensive redesign,' he says. 'The goal is to create a positive first impression that encourages buyers to step through the front door.'

First impressions count - get the basics right, and your front garden will do the selling before you've opened the front door.

June is here, so naturally it’s got me thinking about hanging baskets for my garden and what plants to put in them.

Creating structure is a must, so I always follow the thriller, filler, spiller rule for foolproof results when choosing plants. But to make baskets look fuller, quicker, choosing the right ‘spiller’ plants is the key.

‘When choosing fast-growing trailing flowering plants for hanging baskets (the spiller element), it’s all about picking varieties that will quickly fill out the space and create plenty of movement and colour throughout the season,’ says Duncan McLean, Horticulture Buyer at B&Q.

‘Plants like calibrachoa, bacopa and trailing verbena are great options for hanging basket plants because they establish quickly and spill beautifully over the sides of baskets, helping you achieve that full, overflowing look faster,’ adds Duncan. ‘And many trailing varieties are also well suited to baskets, window boxes and containers, making them ideal for smaller outdoor spaces too.’

1. Calibrachoa

‘When it comes to how to plant up a hanging basket, to get the best results, think about creating layers by combining trailing plants with upright varieties (or thrillers) in the centre for height and impact and bushier plants to fill out your basket,’ advises Duncan. ‘Calibrachoa is especially useful if you want lots of colour and comes in a spectrum of shades.’

Known as ‘million bells’, Calibrachoa is also a prolific bloomer and produces dozens of trumpet-like blooms that resemble mini petunia flowers cascading over the edges of pots and hanging baskets. Buy Calibrachoa as plug plants (I love these Calibrachoa Million Bells Super MixMillion Bells, from £9.99 at J.Parker's) and position around the rim of your hanging basket so that they can trail easily over the edges. And deadhead regularly for continuous blooms.

Where to buy calibrachoa:

• J. Parker's: Enjoy a cascade of rainbow colour with these Calibrachoa Million Bells Super MixMillion Bells, from £9.99.
• Primrose: Or keep it simple with the all-white Calibrachoa 'Cabaret Double White', from £7.99.

2. Bacopa

One of my favourite low-maintenance plants for pots and hanging baskets, bacopa looks super-pretty with its tiny white, pink or purple daisy-like blooms and lush green foliage. The Bacopa 'Baristo® Snowflake'Sutera diffusus, from £10.99 at Thompson & Morgan, is already in my basket.

No deadheading is needed with bacopa, just a light trim if it gets too long, and bacopa will stay in flower from late spring through to autumn, making it a great value-for-money plant.

‘It’s worth remembering that hanging baskets dry out much quicker than pots on the ground, especially during warmer weather, so regular watering to keep hanging baskets hydrated is key,’ adds Duncan. ‘On hot days, that could mean watering once in the morning and again in the evening.’

Where to buy bacopa:

• Thompson & Morgan: Enjoy pretty flowers throughout the summer with this Bacopa 'Baristo® Snowflake'Sutera diffusus, from £10.99.
• YouGarden: Or go for masses of multicoloured flowers with this Bacopa 'Topia' Mix, from £12.99.

3. Trailing verbena

‘Trailing verbena is another great pick for hanging baskets, creating long-lasting displays that work brilliantly in sunny spots,’ says Duncan.

Trailing verbena flowers abundantly in a vibrant choice of rich reds, purples, pinks and white and will provide non-stop colour for months in hanging baskets and containers. But like many summer bedding plants, trailing verbena isn’t hardy, so it won't survive a frost.

‘When it comes to looking after hanging baskets, in addition to frequent watering, use a peat-free compost with added water retention, like this Verve multi-purpose compost, £12 at B&Q, and feed little and often through the growing season - this will all help encourage stronger growth, more flowers and healthier plants,’ advises Duncan. ‘With the right mix and a bit of regular care, you can create a fabulous display that looks full and established in just a few weeks.’

Where to buy trailing verbena:

• J. Parker's: Fill hanging baskets with multicoloured blooms with this Verbena Trailing Mixed, from £9.99.
• Gardeners Dream: Or go for these striking purple-blue toned Verbena Blue Basket Plants, from £11.99.

Shop these hanging baskets

4. Petunias

‘If you want hanging baskets to look full quickly, I’d go for trailing petunias, calibrachoa, verbena or bacopa,’ says Julian Palphramand, Head of Plants at British Garden Centres. ‘They’re all brilliant because they grow fast, flower well and give you that lovely spilling-over effect without much fuss.’

Petunias are one of the most popular summer flowers for hanging baskets and containers, with vigorous growth and vibrant, long-lasting blooms that trail beautifully. The frilly blue Petunia 'Frills & Spills Belinda', from £9.99 at Thompson & Morgan, is particularly beautiful. Petunias like a sunny spot and frequent watering and will flower continuously through the summer months. Just remember to deadhead petunias, pinching out the spent flowers regularly.

Where to buy petunias:

• Primrose: These striking purple and white blooms will add wow to hanging baskets - Petunia Designer Royal Lace, from £7.99.
• Suttons: With extra-large flowers, try these Petunia 'Superbissima Triumph Mix', from £6.99.

5. Lobelia

‘Lobelia is another good trailing plant pick for hanging baskets and containers if you want something a bit softer and more relaxed,’ suggests Julian.

With masses of tiny purple, blue or white blooms that spill over the edges of hanging baskets, tubs and troughs, lobelia works well on its own in a container, or can be partnered with an upright ‘thriller’ plant like a geranium (I love the Geranium Jackpot, £12.99 at Thompson & Morgan for its mix of striking colours) or fuchsia for a more structured display.

‘The main thing with baskets is not letting them dry out,’ adds Julian. ‘Plant them fairly generously, use a moisture-retentive compost, and start feeding once they’re established - this Feed for Hanging Baskets and Tubs, £4.99, at Amazon is ideal. Baskets definitely need a bit of attention once summer kicks in and during warm weather spells, they may need watering every day.’

Where to buy lobelia:

• B&Q: Enjoy a variety of colours with this Lobelia Trailing Mixed Bedding Plants 3 x 10 Pack, £24.99.
• Marshalls Garden: Or go for the stunning all-white Lobelia 'Waterfall White Sparkle', from £12.99.

6. Trailing geraniums

As an alternative to growing upright geraniums that make a good ‘thriller’ element in containers and hanging baskets, you can achieve the 'spiller' effect by choosing trailing geraniums (also known as ivy-leaf pelargoniums) that will spill over the sides and add fullness. The Geranium 'Balcon Mix', from £19.99 from Thompson & Morgan, is a stunner.

Easy to grow and often still blooming long after summer baskets have finished, trailing geraniums have stiff, fleshy leaves that tumble down the sides of containers, teamed with cheery single or double-formed flowers that come in vibrant shades of pink, red and white.

Trailing geraniums thrive in full sun and well-drained soil. Between waterings, let the soil dry out partially, as they are drought-tolerant and prone to root rot if they get soggy.

Where to buy trailing geraniums:

• Suttons: Enjoy a variety of cheery colours with this Geranium Trailing Collection, from £19.99.
• Dobies: Or go for these vibrant Geranium peltatum 'Red', from £14.99.

7. Busy Lizzies

Busy lizzies (or impatiens) are a much-loved container flower with their cheery long-lasting blooms that flower right through summer and into early autumn. With single or double-flowered varieties and in shades of red, orange, purple and pink (Beacon Raspberry Sundae Mixed, from £12.99 at Thompson & Morgan is a favourite), they flower best in full sun or part shade.

In hanging baskets, colourful busy lizzies contrast well against darker-coloured foliage or alongside tinier flowers like lobelia and aubretia to add visual variety.

When thinking about flower pairings for containers, make it easier by choosing plants that have the same requirements, such as all sun-loving plants together or all shade-loving plants in the same container. This ensures your plants are kept happy when they’re planted together in the same spot.

Where to buy Busy Lizzies:

• Gardeners Dream: Add wow with these stunning purple-pink Impatiens Purple Basket Plants, £16.99.
• Amazon: Enjoy multicoloured blooms with these Impatiens Beacon Mix - 12 x Garden Ready Plants, £14.99.

Do you have hanging baskets in your summer planting plan? Let us know what trailing plants you'll be using.

There are key times of the year to prune, and when your spring plants have flowered and gone over, now's the time to give them a spruce-up.

'June is the perfect time to give spring-flowering shrubs a tidy; it helps them stay in shape and flower well again next year,' says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

So, which are the key varieties to prune? We take a look below, with the help of our gardening experts.

1. Clematis

Clematis is a great variety to grow and is a firm favourite with its beautiful flowers that are in bloom right now.

It can depend on what type it is, as to whether you prune your clematis now or not. Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation, explains, 'If you grow clematis, you will find that they fall into three main pruning groups, and it’s only those in groups 1 or 2 which you should prune in June.

Group 1 clematis are the early flowering varieties and include 'Amandii' and 'Montana'. These types of clematis flower on old wood (so the growth produced in the previous summer), which means you should prune them immediately after they finish flowering. Group 2 clematis are later flowering than group 1, with them usually producing their most blooms in May and June. Varieties which fall into this group include ‘Nelly Moser’. ‘The President’ and ‘Duchess of Edinburgh’.'

What's great about the second group is that you can encourage further flowering if you prune after they've bloomed now.

If you like the idea of trying some of these varieties, then have a look at the Montana variety – it's quick-growing, and you can buy 'Mayleen' from Thompson & Morgan for £12.99 for 1 x 7cm pot. From the second group, we love Nelly Moser, £14.97 for a 2-litre pot, Gardening Express.

2. Wisteria

Everyone's favourite – wisteria is the pinnacle of spring-blooming varieties that we adore. Its short flowering period of two to three weeks means we have to enjoy it while we can.

'Wisteria, in particular, benefits from a summer prune,' says Julian. 'Look for the long, green shoots that have grown this year and cut them back to around five or six leaves from the main woody framework.'

If you're looking to buy a wisteria, we love the Blue Sapphire variety, £42.99 for a three-litre pot, Crocus. It will flower around May with lilac-blue flowers. If you prefer pink flowers, then consider Rosea, £29.99 for a 1.7-litre pot from Thompson & Morgan.

3. Lilac

Lilac is a beautifully scented variety that heralds spring, and it's definitely worth considering if you don't have it already.

'Whether you are growing a lilac in your garden as a shrub or a small tree, it’s important that you prune this woody, deciduous plant immediately after it finishes flowering, which usually is between May and June,' advises Lucie. 'If you wait and prune your lilac later in the year, then you will likely be cutting away any new growth and lilac flowers on new growth the following year.'

If you wait, then you risk the plant expending energy into producing seeds instead of new shoots.

There are quite a few colours of lilac available – the classic violet that we all know and love, white, pink, magenta and blue.

Palibin has a mauve pink colour, from £21.99 at Thompson & Morgan. It has a lovely fragrance and is perfect for a cottage garden. B&Q have the classic lilac shade in its President Grevy variety, from £16.99 for two.

4. Mock orange

If you love a citrusy orange scent, then a mock orange is for you. It blooms in early summer and is a highly prized variety to have growing in your garden.

Once the cup-shaped white flowers have bloomed, it's time to give it a once-over.

Julian agrees, 'Cut back the stems that have just flowered to a strong pair of buds lower down, then, if needed, remove one or two of the oldest stems at the base to keep the plant open and healthy.'

If you'd love to have one of these beauties in your garden, then we like the Philadelphus 'Virginal' variety from Crocus, £24.99 for a two-litre pot. Plant in your border for a lovely display. Gardening Express have Philadelphus Lemoinei, which has a more yellow centre, £17.99 for a three-litre pot.

5. Viburnum

'June is the perfect time to prune spring-flowering viburnums – a flowering shrub – such as Viburnum burkwoodii, as these varieties set their buds on the previous season's growth,' advises Lucie.

You can buy the Burkwoodii variety from Crocus, £29.99 for a two-litre pot. It flowers in April and May, so it is an early bloomer.

'By pruning them just after they finish flowering, you are stimulating new growth, which then has time to mature, and the shrub can set healthy buds ready for next year's display. If you were to wait and prune later in the year, you run the risk of pruning away next year's blooms,' shares Lucie.

Another early variety is Viburnum tinus; J. Parkers sells a one-litre pot for £5.99. It has white flowers and loves sunny and partially shaded spots.

Shopping essentials for a good prune

Pruning gives you a chance to check over your plants for disease, so it's an important part of their care. You can also check that there aren't any damaged branches or those crossing over. It's all about preventative nurturing to help them grow the best they can.

Our dahlia plants are set to burst into bloom from next month, which is why this month is such a crucial one in the calendar. If you want them to flower right through to the autumn, you’ll need to know what to do with dahlias in June.

Whether you’re growing dahlias in pots or garden borders, they’ll need some extra TLC in the lead-up to their flowering period. That means planting them out before the window closes, offering them plenty of support, and a few other crucial tasks that will have them putting on their best displays.

Here’s a list of things to do with dahlias in June to get you started.

What you'll need

1. Plant them outside

If you potted up your dahlias (kudos if you did – it’s one of gardening expert and author Sarah Raven’s golden rules for growing dahlias) and haven’t planted them out yet, June is your last chance to move them outside.

‘If you haven't already done so, now is the time to plant out any remaining tubers or potted plants,’ says Jane Westoby, creative director at The Hampshire Seed Company. ‘At planting time, enrich the soil with organic matter and a slow-release fertiliser such as fish, blood and bone and a sprinkle of chicken manure pellets.’

You can order an 8kg bucket of Westland Organic Chicken Manure Pellets from Amazon.

'Plant them in fertile, well-drained soil, making sure the tubers are completely covered, along with the lower part of the stem,' adds Sarah Raven. 'This adds stability as the dahlia grows and stops the tubers from drying out in hotter summers. Mulch with compost and space them around 75cm apart.'

2. Know when to water them

If you’re wondering what to do with dahlias in June, your watering schedule could make all the difference to their health. Young dahlias are thirsty plants, so you’ll need to be extra attentive with the watering can at this time of the year.

‘Newly planted dahlias will need more frequent watering while they establish, particularly during hot or dry weather,’ explains Jane.

After the plants are settled in your garden, it’s quality over quantity.

‘Once established, I prefer to water deeply rather than little and often, encouraging roots to grow down into the soil,’ says Jane. ‘The exact frequency depends on your soil type and weather conditions, but a thorough soak once a week is usually better than a daily sprinkle.’

Jane also notes that container-grown dahlias will need more regular watering, even every day during warm spells. Just don't overdo it on cooler days – overwatering can cause dahlia leaves to turn yellow.

3. Offer them support

Many dahlia varieties grow tall, and when you pair that height with the huge blooms on some of the dinnerplate types, they can quickly become too big for their boots after flowering begins. That’s why you’ll need some of the best plant supports to hand before they burst into bloom.

‘In June, tall-growing plants like dahlias put on vigorous growth and can become top-heavy once they bloom,’ explains Paul Parker from perennials and annuals specialists J. Parker's.

‘This is why staking these plants now will help keep stems neat and protect them from sudden summer storms.’

This double ring dahlia plant support from Crocus is made from uncoated steel and can develop a rust effect.

4. Feed them

It's also a good idea to start feeding your dahlias in June to encourage strong plants and plenty of flowers.

'I suggest using a slow-release fertiliser or feeding dahlias in pots every fortnight with a liquid comfrey or seaweed fertiliser,' says Sarah. 'If you’ve used a slow-release fertiliser, there is no need to feed.'

The Shropshire Seaweed Company Organic Seaweed, which you can order from Amazon, is a certified organic plant food which promotes growth and enhances soil health. Just make sure you don't overfeed your dahlias, since that's one of the leading causes of dahlias not blooming.

If you're growing dahlias, add these tasks to your list of June garden jobs to encourage showstopping blooms.

Peonies are among my favourite flowers in the vase and the garden. If you want to get the best out of the blooms outdoors, it’s worth knowing what to do with peonies in June.

Learning how to grow peonies is so rewarding for the fleeting time they’re in bloom, and by June, most varieties will be at their peak. To enjoy the flowers for as long as possible, though, you’ll need to know what to do with peonies in June.

Here are a few key peony tasks to add to your list of June garden jobs.

What you'll need

1. Support the blooms

One of the most important things to do with peonies in June is support them, because by now, many will be laden with heavy flowers. According to Elonor Tivey (The Peony Farmer), support is especially important when rain is forecast (like it is this week!).

‘Peonies have huge showy blooms, but if they fill up with rain in a shower, then the stems cannot support them,’ Elonor explains. ‘A peony cage or canes and string help them to stay upright!’

There are plenty of brilliant plant supports out there that will offer your peonies the assistance they need until they finish flowering. You can buy simple peony cages like this Garden Gear peony and herbaceous plant frame from Thompson & Morgan, or go for something more ornate, like this rust ball top plant support from Crocus.

2. Water consistently

Watering seems like an obvious June peony care task, but it's more about how you water the plants.

'In warm or dry weather, it’s best to water deeply once or twice a week rather than little and often,' explains Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. 'This encourages stronger root growth and helps the plant cope better in dry spells.

'Always aim water at the base rather than over the foliage to reduce the risk of disease.'

Julian recommends using a watering can with a rose for a gentler approach, like this 10L watering can with a removable rose from Robert Dyas.

It's also worth keeping in mind that newly planted peonies or peonies grown in pots will need more water, so make sure you regularly monitor the soil.

3. Deadhead spent flowers

Deadheading is an invaluable skill in any gardener’s set, and if you’re wondering whether you should deadhead peonies, the answer is yes. If your plant is producing enough flowers, anyway.

‘If your peonies have more than one flower bud on the stem, remove the main flower once it has faded to help the side buds open for a second flush of blooms!’ Elonor advises.

These RHS Burgon and Ball ergo deadheader snips from Crocus are designed to reduce hand strain and come with an impressive 10-year guarantee.

4. Cut them back after flowering

You’ll also need to know when to cut back peonies - and if your plant finishes flowering this month, it’s time to get started.

‘Once your peony has finished flowering, nip the faded blooms off at the first leaf node below the flower to leave the foliage to feed the crown for next year's flowers,’ says Elonor.

Just make sure you avoid making any peony pruning mistakes along the way (they’re easily made!).

‘If you notice any disease on your peony, then this should be removed and disposed of in the household waste, not the compost heap, as spores can overwinter,’ Elonor warns.

If you're keen to keep your peonies blooming for longer, the tasks above should help you get the most out of this year's flowers.

While the warmer weather has been fabulous, keeping pots and planters well-watered has been a challenge. For me, the front garden has been particularly tricky, as it's in constant sun and I have lots of containers, so it’s got me thinking about what I can plant in front garden pots that won’t require too much watering.

Aside from the heat drying out container plants more quickly, one of the problems with front garden ideas is often access to water. I live in a terraced house, so there’s no outdoor tap at the front, which means me carrying hefty watering cans through the house, so choosing fairly drought-tolerant plants is key.

‘Containers and hanging baskets are usually the first to suffer in sudden heat because they dry out much faster than plants growing in the ground,’ says David Denyer, flower and garden expert at eflorist. ‘Newly planted flowers and young bedding plants can also struggle, as their roots are still fairly shallow and haven’t had time to properly establish themselves yet.’ But by timing your watering schedule right and choosing low-maintenance plants, you can still keep your front garden and containers looking vibrant in the heat.

1. Lavender

‘Lavender is one of the best all-round choices as it can withstand extreme heat and dry weather conditions,’ suggests David. ‘It will also produce flowers that are long-lasting and react nicely to being pruned, keeping a nice, neat shape. They’re also great at attracting bees.

To get the best out of your Lavender, I’d advise planting it in a large pot with free-draining compost, exposed to full sunlight.’

Shelley Davis, plant expert at Flying Flowers, agrees: ‘Native to the sun-drenched landscapes of the Mediterranean and Middle East, lavender has earned its place as a staple in English gardens for its incredible scent and effortless beauty. The trick to keeping it low-maintenance is mimicking its home climate with plenty of sunlight and very well-draining soil, like Miracle-Gro's premium compost, £5 from Amazon. When potting lavender, try mixing in some perlite (you can buy 10L for £8.79 from Amazon) or coarse sand to keep the soil loose.’

‘To avoid the dreaded root rot, the most common killer of potted lavender, only water when the soil feels dry an inch deep,’ adds Shelley. ‘Remember, this plant prefers a ‘soak and dry’ and an annual pruning approach over constant moisture and regular maintenance.’

Where to buy lavender plants:

• Gardening Express: Try these Large Lavendula angustifolia Hidcote - XL English Lavender Hidcote Blue, £19.99.
• Gardeners Dream: Add fragrance and colour with this pretty French Lavender stoechas. from £16.99.

2. Rosemary

‘Rosemary is far more than just a kitchen staple,’ says Shelley. ‘It’s a rugged, woody herb that brings effortless beauty to any garden. Because it actually despises overwatering and handles the cold with ease, it is remarkably easy to keep alive. Like its Mediterranean cousin, lavender, rosemary craves sunlight and sandy, free-draining soil.

‘Potted rosemary trees (like these Rosemary Lollipop trees, £18.99 from B&Q) look fabulous either side of a front door, and planting rosemary near an entranceway doesn’t just give you a low-maintenance evergreen; it also greets your guests with a wonderful, fresh aroma every time they visit, so it is a great fragrant plant for a front porch.’

Where to buy rosemary plants:

• Amazon: Easy to grow, try these Gardeners Dream Rosemary Bush Plants, from £9.49.
• Crocus: Or try this pretty trailing Rosemary Blue Cascade 'Lowros', £21.99.

3. Olive trees

‘Like most Mediterranean-style plants, olive trees will handle the hot, dry weather no problem,’ says David. ‘They also look great in modern front gardens. I’d recommend placing them in a sunny spot, deep watering occasionally when they have established, and remember to keep them in a large container.’ These deep watering spikes, £7.99 at Amazon will help reduce evaporation loss and targeted hydration for potted plants.

'One of the biggest mistakes people make is watering little and often once the heat arrives,’ adds David. ‘While it feels like you’re helping, shallow watering can actually encourage weaker roots because the moisture never reaches deeper into the soil. A much better approach is to water thoroughly either early in the morning or later in the evening so plants can properly absorb what they need before the heat of the day.’

Where to buy olive trees:

• B&Q: Give your front garden a Mediterranean vibe with these Olea Europaea- Olive Trees, £32.99.
• Tree2mydoor: Or go for trees either side of the front door with these Pair of Olive trees, £93.

Shop these planters

4. Agave

‘For a dramatic, sculptural look that requires almost zero effort, agaves are the ultimate choice for potted gardens,’ says Shelley. ‘Known as ‘century plants’ because of the many years they take to bloom, these outdoor succulents are incredibly drought-tolerant. While the main plant dies after its rare flowering, it thoughtfully leaves behind shoots to take its place.’

‘For a thriving, statement-making plant, use a terracotta pot with a dedicated succulent potting mix (Westland's cacti and succulent potting mix is a great, budget buy, £5, Amazon) and only water when the soil is bone-dry.’

Where to buy agave plants:

• Gardening Express: Make a statement with this Agave Americana Variegata - American Aloe - Century Plant, £15.99.
• Dobies: Or try the subtle blue tones of this Dianella revoluta 'Blue Stream', from £14.99.

5. Geraniums

‘Geraniums will tolerate dry compost well, and when it comes to how often you should water in hot weather, geraniums can even cope with a few missed waterings,’ suggests David. ‘And their colour makes them a great addition in the summer. If you deadhead geraniums, you might be able to keep them blooming for months.’

‘When it comes to sunny front gardens, moisture-loving plants, like hydrangeas and ferns, are especially prone to drooping or scorching in sudden heat, particularly if they’re sitting in full afternoon sun. If possible, move vulnerable pots somewhere slightly more sheltered when it is going to be particularly hot, even if it’s just somewhere that avoids the hottest part of the afternoon.’

Where to buy geranium plants:

• Suttons: Buy these garden-ready Geranium 'Best Red' F1, from £4.99.
• Thompson & Morgan: Enjoy a blaze of bright colour with these Geranium 'Jackpot Candyfloss' Mix, from £12.99.

6. Sedums

‘Sedum, often called stonecrop, is a gardener’s dream because it truly is a plant that thrives on benign neglect,’ advises Shelley. ‘These hardy succulents require almost no pruning, feeding, or watering to look their best. In fact, once they are settled in an outdoor pot, they can usually survive on UK rainfall alone.’

‘With so many varieties to choose from, sedums are as stylish as they are easy. You can use trailing types like 'Burro's Tail' sedum, £21.99, from Amazon, a beautiful texture and colour, or choose upright varieties like ‘Autumn Joy’, £7.99 from Gardening Express, to create a stunning focal point that draws in pollinators late in the season.’

Where to buy sedum plants:

• Crocus: For pots or sun-drenched borders, try these Hylotelephium × mottramianum 'Herbstfreude' stonecrop, from £9.99.
• Gardeners Dream: Enjoy a variety of colours with this Sedum Mix, £20.99.

7. Salvia

‘Salvia copes far better with heat than many traditional bedding plants,’ suggests David. ‘Salvia is one of the best perennial plants for attracting pollinators like bees, moths and butterflies. And they also look great when paired with other Mediterranean-style plants like lavender.’

Choose a roomy pot with drainage holes at the bottom and fill it with multi-purpose compost with a little perlite or sand added for extra drainage. Standing the container on pot feet will also help with drainage.

Where to buy salvia plants:

• B&Q: For stunning purple colour in pots or borders, try these Salvia Love and Wishes 3 plug plants perennial plants, £11.99.
• Amazon: Or try this multicoloured selection - Salvia Vista Mixed, £13.59.

8. Phormium

‘Phormium is perfect if you want a low-maintenance option for front gardens,’ suggests David. ‘They have a great contemporary look which lasts all year round, and the foliage will cope well come wind, sun, or dry spells.’

Ensure you choose a large enough container to accommodate the growing size of your plant (check the plant label for height and spread). A plant 1.5m tall will usually need a container at least 50cm wide and the same deep. And ensure the container is weighty enough not to topple over. Alternatively, try phormium in a front garden border or raised bed for a striking look.

Where to buy phormium plants:

• Gardeners Dream: Add wow with this dramatic dark-toned Phormium 'Bronze Baby' from £11.90 each.
• Primrose: With arching, sword-shapes leaves and a pink-toned leaves, try this Phormium Sundowner | New Zealand Flax, £38.99.

Are your front garden plants flagging in the heat? Share your watering tips with us.

The BBQ is lit, the food is prepped, and your garden is looking lush – guests are arriving imminently, but you look down at the arm of your chair and notice bird poo... oh, and on the sofa cover too.

At this time of year, birds are busy; they've got their young in nests, and they're backwards and forwards feeding them, so if they've nested near your house and garden, you are in the fly-poop zone, and your patio is the first place you'll notice it.

We have spoken to our experts, and they have seven genius ways to prevent this from happening that are also humane.

1. Optical bird gel

A new way to keep birds from poohing across your garden is optical bird gel – Amazon have a version called SpectrumV Holographic bird gel, £35.89.

'It's been developed to humanely deter wild birds from areas and is sometimes called ‘Fire Gel’ or ‘Optical Gel’. Usually sold in small, unobtrusive dishes or in tubes to be applied using a caulking gun. This gel works by appearing as little balls of fire due to birds seeing in the ultraviolet spectrum,' explains Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation.

The good bit is that some of these gels have essential oils in them, 'Essential oils such as peppermint or citronella are a deterrent too – this combination of shimmering appearance and scent makes these gels highly effective,' adds Lucie.

2. Reflective items

Reflective surfaces are a big no for birds, especially if they flutter or swing.

Lee Trethewey, outdoor furniture expert at Sustainable Furniture, says, 'Reflective items, like old CDs or metallic ribbon, close to outdoor furniture will definitely help. The reflective surface naturally deters birds because of the unpredictable flashes of light they can emit, and the sudden changes in light intensity or direction can confuse and startle birds, so they will not settle down in your garden.'

B&Q's 350ft bird repellent scare tape, £7.99, reflects the light and makes a sound when it's windy. Cut into strips and tie them near your furniture – ideally, tree branches and around the top of your parasol.

3. Decoys

Decoys are a good option that has a high deterrent rate. Lee agrees, 'Realistic predator decoys can also be used to keep birds away from outdoor furniture. Use plastic owls or swooping bird-shaped kites, but ensure that these are moved around every few days so the birds do not begin to realise that they are fake.

Our favourites are the Marco Paul swivel head owl bird deterrent decoy, £15.99, B&Q, with its head that moves with the wind, and the eyes are very lifelike, and Amazon's flying hawk bird scarer kite, £14.99, that you can hang off tree branches.

4. Consider your furniture layout

Before you start your summer entertaining season, it pays to look at your garden furniture layout in relation to where birds might like to be.

'Many of us like to position bird feeders or bird baths in our garden to attract wild birds to visit, but at the same time you don’t want your garden furniture getting splattered by bird poo,' says Lucie.

To combat this, Lucie recommends moving your feeders and bird baths at least ten meters away from your patio or seating areas.

Another top tip is to check out the branches they like to perch on: 'Trim back overhead branches or shrubs that are close to outdoor furniture,' suggests Lee.

Invest in these McGregor telescopic bypass loppers, £15, from Argos – they are great value and have good reviews.

5. Clever planting

There are some scents that deter birds, and these can be used effectively to keep them away from your patio furniture.

Lucie explains, 'Although we are usually thinking about which plants we can grow to help wild birds and make our gardens inviting for them, you can also do localised planting around patios or seating with plants which birds dislike to deter them from going close to those areas.'

Look at plants such as lavender, marigolds and mint, says Lucie, 'They can be grown in pots and placed near seating areas, and birds will be discouraged by the strong aromas.'

Lavender is particularly good because it deters birds but attracts the bees and butterflies. We like the Lavandula angustifolia Hidcote Blue variety, currently £6.99 for 12, Gardening Express.

6. Auditory deterrents

'Birds usually prefer a quiet resting spot, and adding unexpected noise can make your garden less welcoming,' explains Lee.

There are two types of noise deterrent, 'Wind chimes can discourage smaller birds, with metal chimes being the most effective. There are also ultrasonic or motion-activated devices, but be mindful that pets or neighbours may be able to hear the noises from these,' Lee adds.

We like the Woodstock chimes Amazing Grace wind chime, £32.95 from B&Q, it has been inspired by the opening tunes of Amazing Grace and has been tuned as such. There are six bronze tubes and a teak finish ash wood top. For an ultrasonic option, check out the Isotronic ultrasonic solar bird repeller device, £32.95, Amazon; it also repels cats and other small animals.

7. Keep your patio clean and tidy

This may sound obvious, but our patios can be prone to debris of all kinds during the summer months, especially if we are eating outside.

'You can make your garden less appealing to birds by ensuring that it is kept clean. Clean food scraps immediately after eating outside, and wipe down furniture to remove crumbs or spillages,' advises Lee. 'You should also clean away any existing bird poo, as this will stop other birds from seeing your furniture as a safe landing area.'

Invest in a good stiff outdoor broom and dustpan so you can brush away the debris every evening. We love the Charles Bentley large outdoor broom and wide dustpan set from Argos, £20, it's great value and is ideal for patio cleaning.

Furniture cleaning essentials

Follow our guide to poop-free patio furniture, and your summer entertaining will be perfect! Just keep an eye on it all, and hopefully our feathered friends will keep away.

We’ve already had a heatwave this year, and it’s technically still spring. With summer showing potential to be as hot as last year, and extreme weather becoming increasingly common in the UK, gardening experts have shared five fast-growing drought-tolerant plants you can plant now that will thrive in the hot weather.

The best drought-tolerant plants and shrubs are those that can survive periods of hot, dry weather with minimal interference from you. If this year’s garden trends have shown us anything, it’s that climate-resilient planting is more than a trend and something we should all be adopting as the UK’s climate changes.

Drought-resistant plants are a fantastic choice for summer gardens as they are less impacted by hosepipe bans and sweltering heat. Here are five fast-growing flowers to consider planting in your garden asap.

1. Cornflower

Cornflowers are a great plant for any garden. Not only will they fill your borders with a vibrant shade of blue, but they’re also hardy and drought-tolerant, and one of the best plants for attracting bees and birds to your garden.

‘Known for their striking blue blooms, cornflowers feature frilled petals and curly stamens that attract bees and other beneficial insects. They’re happy in dry conditions once settled and bring texture and vibrancy to the garden,’ says Dr Emily Attlee, conservation scientist and co-founder of the original seed ball company, Seedball.

Where to buy cornflowers

• Mr Fothergills Tall Mix Cornflower Flower Seeds, £3, B&Q
• Cornflower 'Jubilee Gem' - Seeds, £1.99, Thompson & Morgan
• Cornflower 'Polka Dot Mix' - Seeds, £2.49, Suttons

2. Yarrow

One of the best perennials to add to your garden due to its long-lasting blooms and vibrant colours, yarrow is also pretty low-maintenance, too.

‘Yarrow is a fast-growing perennial, and as it can tolerate a wide range of soil types, it can be suitable for growing in any garden. It is a relatively low-maintenance plant, as you only need to cut back the foliage in spring and then deadhead through the summer to encourage more flowers. It is a great plant to grow for pollinators, and it can also support a wide range of other insect species,’ says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture.

Where to buy yarrow

• Achillea 'Credo', £9.99, Crocus
• Achillea millefolium 'Summer Pastels', £9.99 at Thompson & Morgan
• Achillea Walther Funcke Plant 2 x 9cm Pots, £13.99, B&Q

3. Musk mallow

I love musk mallow. It’s great for attracting butterflies to your garden and has a lovely musky fragrance, too.

‘With its soft pink blooms and classic cottage garden appeal, musk mallow is both hardy and low-maintenance. It tolerates drought well, disappears in autumn, and returns reliably each spring, making it a wildlife-friendly favourite,’ says Dr Emily.

Where to buy musk mallow

• Mr Fothergills Mallow Musk Flower Seeds, £3, B&Q
• Seedball Garden Meadow Pack, £6, Thompson & Morgan
• Musk Mallow Promo New Kew Range 1 Packet (40 Seeds), £2.99, B&Q

4. Verbena

I highly recommend growing verbena. It’s a low-maintenance drought-tolerant plant that will fill garden borders with beautiful colour, whilst adding height and structure, too.

‘Verbena is a low-maintenance plant that can have a long flowering season. The flowers produced by the plant are very attractive to pollinators, and once established, the plant will cope well with hot and dry conditions. However, they can self-seed in hotter conditions, so they will need to be monitored to prevent them from becoming invasive,’ says Richard.

Where to buy verbena

• Verbena bonariensis, £7.99, Crocus
• Verbena 'Peach Picotee', £16.99, Suttons
• Verbena 'Quartz Mixed' F1, £14.99, Thompson & Morgan

5. Meadow cranesbill

A wildflower garden staple, meadow cranesbill is a beautiful, native perennial that’s characterised by its vibrant violet flowers.

‘Young plants may need some water at first, but once established, meadow cranesbill performs brilliantly in dry, well-drained soils. Part of the geranium family, it produces beautiful violet flowers and supports a wide range of pollinators,’ says Dr Emily.

Where to buy meadow cranesbill

• Geranium 'Orion', £9.99, Crocus
• Geranium pratense 'Mrs Kendall Clark', £11.99, Crocus
• Mr Fothergills - Pictorial Packet - Wildflower - Meadow Cranesbill, £4.49, Amazon

These tough, yet beautiful flowers make a wonderful addition to any garden.

If your front door looks a little bare or exposed, adding a fast-growing climbing plant is one of the easiest ways to soften the space and create instant kerb appeal.

Whether you want fragrant flowers, cottage garden charm or leafy coverage to disguise your brickwork, the right climber can completely transform the look of your home in as little as a season or two.

If you're looking for climbing plant ideas that will quickly elevate your front entrance, experts say there are plenty of options that work beautifully in borders and containers alike.

And many of the best climbing plants for pots can be trained around porches, arches and door frames, while also offering one of the easiest ways to add kerb appeal to the front of your house. Here are the gardening experts' top picks to plant and train around your front door.

1. Star Jasmine

Gardening expert Lucie Bradley of Easy Garden Irrigation explains that star jasmine is an outstanding choice around a doorway because its glossy green foliage provides structure all year, while the flowers release a rich scent that becomes even stronger on warm summer evenings. The classic Trachelospermum jasminoides, from £12.99 at Thompson & Morgan, is my firm favourite for its stunning, fragrant white blooms.

It thrives best in south or west-facing spots where it can enjoy six to eight hours of sun a day. Lucie recommends planting it around 30cm away from the wall and training it onto wires or trellis supports. I'm currently using this plant training kit, £13.85 at Amazon, to support my jasmine.

Richard Barker, horticulture expert at LBS Horticulture, adds that star jasmine is easy to train because it naturally twines around supports and can even be grown successfully in pots if your entrance has limited planting space.

Liam Cleary from Old Railway Line Garden Centre adds that jasmine works particularly well near entrances because it grows quickly without becoming too overpowering, while the fragrance helps make the entrance feel more welcoming during spring and summer.

Where to buy star jasmine:

• Thompson & Morgan: Trachelospermum jasminoides, from £12.99, is a classic evergreen star jasmine with glossy dark green leaves and highly fragrant white flowers.
• Crocus: Trachelospermum jasminoides ‘Star of Toscana’, £29.99 for a 7L pot, has buttery yellow, pinwheel-like flowers and a softer, Mediterranean feel than traditional white star jasmine.
• Gardening Express: Trachelospermum jasminoides ‘Star of Milano’, from £24.97, is a more compact variety providing masses of scented blooms and glossy evergreen coverage.

2. Clematis

Clematis is a brilliant choice if you want fast colour without waiting years for coverage. Some varieties can put on several feet of growth in a single season, quickly scrambling around door frames, arches and trellis panels.

Known as the 'queen of climbers', Lucie says clematis offers everything from large, dramatic blooms to delicate bell-shaped flowers, depending on the variety you choose. She points out that scented types like clematis montana (from £14.99 at Crocus) can also add a welcoming perfume around your front door, while the plants themselves take up surprisingly little ground space, making them ideal for compact porches and small front gardens.

Lucie also says the key thing to remember with clematis is that they like 'their heads in the sun and feet in the shade', which is why east-facing front doors often work particularly well. They'll also need supports like wires or trellises (this riveted trellis, £8.50 from Amazon, is the perfect size for the side of a front door) because they climb by wrapping their leaf stalks around structures.

Where to buy clematis:

• Thompson & Morgan: Clematis ‘Taiga’, from £14.99, is a striking Japanese variety with unusual spiky purple-and-lime flowers that look almost like passionflowers, making it a real statement climber for pots or arches.
• Crocus: Clematis montana ‘Marjorie’, from £27.99 for a 3L pot, is a vigorous, fast-growing clematis covered in pale pink, vanilla-scented flowers in late spring, ideal for scrambling over fences or pergolas.

Shop supports for your front door display

3. Climbing roses

Fast-growing climbing rose varieties can quickly cover arches and walls, rewarding you with repeat flowers and beautiful fragrance throughout the warmer months.

Lucie Bradley recommends choosing thornless and repeat-flowering varieties where possible, highlighting 'Zephirine Drouhin' (from £44.99 at Thompson & Morgan) as a particularly popular option thanks to its fragrant, deep pink blooms that flower from June through to September.

Like most roses, climbing varieties grow best in sunny positions, particularly south or west-facing doors. However, they do need sturdy support like this set of 2 lattice wall trellises, £37 from Agriframes, because they can not cling to walls themselves. Lucie advises fixing supports around 5 cm away from the brickwork so stems can be threaded through and trained properly.

Richard adds that regular tying-in and deadheading will encourage stronger growth and repeat flowering later in the season.

Where to buy climbing roses:

• Thompson & Morgan: Rose ‘Zephirine Drouhin’, from £44.99, is a thornless climbing rose with richly scented cerise-pink blooms that flower repeatedly through summer, making it perfect for training around doorways and arches.
• Crocus: Rose ‘Golden Showers’, £28.99 for a 4L pot, is a fast-growing climbing rose covered in butter yellow blooms from early summer onwards, prized for its long flowering season and glossy foliage.

4. Wisteria

Wisteria is one of the most dramatic climbing plants you can train around your front door. Its cascading flowers create a truly showstopping entrance in late spring and early summer, and established plants can grow incredibly quickly.

That vigorous growth does mean wisteria needs more management than some other climbers. Richard Barker explains that it requires a very sturdy support securely anchored to brickwork, as mature plants become extremely heavy over time. I recommend using a climber wall support like this one from Crocus, £36.54, and then using a wire kit, £11.59 from Amazon, to train it around your door.

He also warns that regular pruning is essential to stop it from blocking doorways or becoming unruly around entrances. While it can be grown in pots, Richards says this only really works if it's maintained carefully as a standard tree with regular feeding and watering throughout the growing season.

Where to buy wisteria:

• Thompson & Morgan: Wisteria floribunda ‘Black Dragon’, from £29.99, is a dramatic Japanese wisteria with unusual double violet-purple flower clusters and a rich fragrance that makes it a real showstopper in late spring.
• Crocus: Wisteria sinensis ‘Prolific’, from £34.99 for a 3L pot, is one of the earliest and most reliable flowering varieties and my favourite, producing masses of lilac-blue scented racemes on mature plants.

5. Honeysuckle

Honeysuckle is ideal if fragrance is high on your wishlist. This fast-growing climber quickly wraps around trellises and doorway supports, filling the area with a sweet scent during summer evenings.

Lucie Bradley says evergreen varieties like 'Halliana' (£24.99 at Thompson & Morgan) are particularly useful around front doors because they provide glossy foliage throughout the year alongside masses of fragrant summer flowers. She explains that honeysuckle is a twining vine, so it will need supports such as a trellis (this set of 2 expandable trellises, £18.99 at Amazon, will do the job) or tensioned wires (£11.59 from Amazon) fixed slightly away from the wall to give stems space to wrap around properly.

Once established, honeysuckle is relatively easy to care for, although Lucie recommends deep watering during dry spells because plants growing close to house walls can miss rainfall. Applying mulch in spring will also help lock in moisture.

Liam says that honeysuckle works especially well if you want a more natural-looking entrance. He adds that it's also brilliant for wildlife-friendly gardens because the flowers attract bees and butterflies throughout summer.

Where to buy honeysuckle:

• Thompson & Morgan: Lonicera japonica ‘Halliana’, from £24.99, is a vigorous semi-evergreen honeysuckle with intensely fragrant creamy-white flowers that fade to buttery yellow through summer, making it ideal for covering fences and arches quickly.
• Crocus: Lonicera periclymenum ‘Serotina’, from £14.99, is a later-flowering honeysuckle with deep red buds that open to purple-flushed cream flowers, releasing a strong evening fragrance loved by pollinators.

Shop these climbing plant essentials

So there you have it! The right climber can completely transform the look of the front of your house and make your home feel more welcoming at the very first glance. Happy planting!

Gardening experts have revealed five of the best scented garden plants to make your garden smell divine all summer long - they’re perfect for creating a divine ambience to welcome guests to your garden.

It’s the time of year when we all plan on spending more time outdoors, and climbing plants can be perfect for adding extra structure and depth to your garden, as well as smelling amazing. For example, the best scented plants to grow up a pergola can not only make this garden seating idea look better, but the lovely scent can improve the atmosphere, too.

One thing people with lovely-smelling gardens always have is beautifully-scented climbing plants. Here are five stunning options, as recommended by experts.

1. Clematis

You should definitely grow clematis if you enjoy scents like vanilla, almond, or hawthorn. This beautiful climber is a very popular choice due to its fragrance, and can be grown in pots near your patio to make it smell good.

‘Although not all clematis varieties have a scent, some can smell like vanilla or almonds, especially 'Clematis montana' or 'Clematis armandii'. Some varieties are vigorous and fast growing, whereas others are more suited to growing in pots,’ says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture.

You can find both varieties online. I've tracked down 'Clematis montana'at Gardening Express and 'Clematis armandii' at Thompson Morgan.

‘The best variety will depend on how much care you are prepared to give the plant, as Group 3 clematis require annual pruning,' adds Richard. 'All varieties will grow best when their roots are in the shade and top growth in the sun, and generally thrive more in garden soil than in a container. New stems will need to be tied in to the plant's support regularly, and ensure they are spaced evenly so they cover the support fully.’

Where to buy clematis

• Clematis montana Broughton Star - Dazzling Double Flowers, £4.99, Gardening Express
• Clematis armandii, £24.99, Thompson & Morgan
• Clematis 'Sweet Scentsation', £29.99, Crocus

2. Climbing rose

Who doesn’t love roses? These romantic blooms are a staple of any English garden, and if you’ve been considering planting climbing roses, you should know they smell wonderfully sweet and floral.

‘By planting a container-grown / potted climbing rose in June, you will be able to enjoy gorgeous, scented, repeat-flowering roses throughout summer and into autumn. Select varieties such as ‘Compassion’ or ‘Scent from Heaven’ and you will be able to appreciate their highly fragrant, sweet scents with fruity notes as well as their large, brightly coloured blooms contrasting perfectly against their glossy dark green foliage,’ says Lucie Bradley, gardens and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation.

‘As climbing roses aren’t self-clinging, you will need to train their long stems to a trellis or wires, tying them in place as they start to grow upwards.’

Where to buy climbing roses

• Rosa Compassion, £28.99, Crocus
• Rosa Scent from Heaven, £32.99, Crocus
• Climbing Rose Parade - Deep Pink Climbing Rose, £14.99, Gardening Express

3. Honeysuckle

Honeysuckle is a night-scented plant which means it releases its lovely fragrance in the evening - making this an excellent choice for your garden if you’re planning any BBQ’s or parties.

‘Many varieties of honeysuckle have a sweet, heavy scent, especially in the evening, making them a great climbing plant for framing a seating area. Climbing honeysuckle flowers in summer and can produce blooms in shades of white, cream, yellow, pink, orange and red,’ says Richard.

‘These flowers are also very appealing to wildlife, as their scent attracts pollinators day and night. Depending on the variety, climbing honeysuckle can be deciduous, semi-evergreen or evergreen. A deciduous variety can produce a more impressive display of flowers, whereas evergreen varieties are good if you want foliage all year round.

‘The scent of climbing honeysuckle will be stronger if it is grown in a warm spot, and it is best to grow them where their roots are in the shade, but their stems can reach sunlight. Climbing honeysuckle will twine around support, but it may need additional help guiding the stems when younger.’

Where to buy honesuckle

• Honeysuckle 'Graham Thomas', £29.99, Suttons
• Lonicera heckrottii 'Goldflame', £12, Dobies
• 3 x Lonicera Honeysuckle Mix in 9cm Pots - Mixed Varieties, £23.99, B&Q

4. Passion flower

As the name suggests, passion flower has a sweet, tropical scent. It is low-maintenance, great for providing privacy and produces a pretty scent and flowers.

‘The unique, structural blooms of Passion Flowers give garden walls and fences a very tropical feel, whilst these vigorous climbers are hardy enough to survive our winters if you select varieties such as ‘Passiflora caerulea’, the Blue Passion Flower, whose intricate blue, purple and white blooms start to appear in June and continue into the autumn and provide you with a light, sweet fragrance,’ says Lucie.

‘Whilst for more intensely sweet scents look to varieties such as ‘Constance Eliott’, which also produces stunning, all-white blooms from July until September. When planted against a sunny, sheltered wall, the heat will help to make the fragrance even stronger.’

Where to buy passion flower

• Passiflora caerulea, £14.99, Thompson & Morgan
• Passiflora caerulea 'Constance Eliott', £34.99, Crocus
• Passiflora 'Purple Haze', £24.99, Dobies

5. Star jasmine

It couldn’t be a roundup of some of the best scented climbing plants without including star jasmine. With an unmistakable rich vanilla scent, this climber is also one of the best climbing plants for a front garden because of its beauty.

‘Star jasmine produces clusters of sweet-smelling, star-shaped white flowers. As it is an evergreen vine, it keeps its foliage all year, with the leaves changing colour to bronze or red during winter. As it is slow-growing, it can be a good climber for planting in smaller gardens,’ says Richard.

‘It will need to be planted somewhere sheltered, and although the stems are self-clinging, younger stems may need to be tied to their support. Once established, it should not need much attention, but stray shoots may need to be tied in during spring to keep them twining in the right direction, or they can be cut and shaped as needed.’

Where to buy star jasmine

• Trachelospermum jasminoides, £12.99, Thompson & Morgan
• Trachelospermum jasminoides, £34.99, Crocus
• Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Star of Toscana', £12.99, Dobies

If you want your garden to smell amazing, these climbing plants are a non-negotiable!

Do you struggle to know what to plant in your garden and often feel like it looks a little chaotic?

The 70/30 rule might just be the key garden idea to transform yours into one that looks wonderful all year round, is sustainable and promotes biodiversity.

Tim Clapp, head of range and a qualified botanist at Verve, explains, 'The "70/30 planting rule” is a simple garden design principle that helps customers create gardens that are visually balanced, easier to maintain and attractive throughout the year. The concept is quite straightforward – 70% of the planting forms the permanent backbone of the garden, and the 30% provides seasonal colour, interest and change.'

We look into how this divide works and how to make it work in our gardens.

How does the 70/30 rule work in garden design?

Tim says the 70/30 planting rule works in much the same way as it does in interior design. 'Around 70% of the garden should be the equivalent of the walls, flooring, kitchen units or sofa within a home. These are the long-term structural elements that provide shape, consistency and style throughout the year.'

Whereas the 30% is your 'accessories' and 'accents' and consists of seasonal plants that have texture and colour.

Why should we adopt this method? 'The 70/30 planting rule is a design principle used by landscapers that divides your garden space to create balance and reduce the amount of maintenance that it needs,' says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director at LBS Horticulture.

How to create the 70%

The 70% is your core, those plants that are there to stay and are long-termers.

Richard explains, 'When creating the 'backbone' of a garden, choose plants that are known to thrive in the soil type and climate of your garden. These plants should be used to form the reliable structure of your garden, such as shrubs, perennials and ornamental grasses. Assess the light, water and soil needs of each plant, as it is better to include resilient plants over those that provide multi-season interest.'

By establishing a strong planting framework first, you can then layer in seasonal flowers and colour with confidence, creating gardens that feel more balanced, professionally designed and attractive across every season,' says Tim.

So what does the 70% consist of? 'Things like evergreen shrubs, hardy perennials, ornamental grasses and other reliable long-lasting plants chosen for their form, foliage, texture and resilience rather than short-term flower impact alone,' suggests Tim.

'I like box, pittosporum, skimmia, sarcococca, viburnum, choisya, hebes and mahonia, along with grasses such as stipa, miscanthus and pennisetum,' says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

According to Tim, these foundation plants will provide year-round structure, texture and foliage interest, repetition and rhythm, visual calm and cohesion and lower long-term maintenance.

One thing worth considering, though, is how these may grow over time. Richard explains, 'When choosing plants, think carefully about how tall or wide they will grow to become over time. Some plants can look attractive when they are small, but may grow to be woody or scraggly over time. Repeat bloomers will ensure that your garden has colour each year, and ensure year-round interest by choosing flowers that bloom at different times.'

A good buy for this section would be Viburnum tinus Lisa Rose in bud and bloom, £39.97, Gardening Express. It's a hardy evergreen that adds interest even during the winter months. We also like the Rubella skimmia japonica, £12.99 for a 9cm pot, Crocus. The red flower buds give you colour from autumn and turn into white blooms in spring.

How to create the 30%

For the brighter 30%, you can really go to town, 'I’d look at plants like salvias, hardy geraniums, heucheras, rudbeckias, dahlias, fuchsias, agapanthus, crocosmia, verbena, lavender, echinacea, asters, tulips, crocus and alliums, plus bedding plants to keep the display changing through the seasons,' suggests Julian.

Richard says this is the time to experiment with plants, 'Consider seasonal bulbs, flashy annuals or any new plants that you want to try growing without ruining the overall appearance of your garden. Scatter accent plants individually, or plant them in smaller drifts amongst foundational plants.'

According to Tim, it's important to use this 30% to create flowering highlights and pollinator-friendly plants. 'This is the time to add trend-led plants that will add variety and excitement.'

We love Verbena bonariensis for this, £7.99 for a 9cm pot from Crocus, it's striking in colour and structure and will add vibrancy to your 30% layer. For another punchy colour addition, consider Rudbeckia Cherry Brandy, £7.99, Gardening Express. The colour will last through summer and into autumn, and this variety loves full sun.

Consider your plant placement

It's vital that you consider your plant placement when you're adopting the 70/30 method, or it simply won't work or look right.

'When choosing where to position each plant, think about layering heights,' advises Richard. 'Low-growing plants work best placed near paths or social spaces, and then increase plant size as you move backwards towards fences and walls.'

With the main rule of thumb of having two distinctive height layers, adding more is always advantageous. 'Using three or four can make your garden look fuller and richer, and repetition is important too, such as using similar species or colours in each part of your garden. For a cohesive look, repeat colours, textures and shapes, even when experimenting with accent plants.'

How to use it when buying plants

This 70/30 landscaping rule can really work well in pretty much any-sized garden. It's about getting the proportions of the varieties correct – follow our guide, and you'll see your space transform!

The warm weather has seen everything in my garden take on a sudden growth spurt. And while it’s lovely seeing all the flowers and plants come into bloom, unfortunately, the weeds seem to be growing at full speed, too.

While it’s tempting to jump in and yank weeds out as you spot them, different weeds require different tools depending on their type and location and knowing which gardening tools to use on which weed is the secret to success when it comes to the battle against them.

‘Weeding is most effective when you match the tool or method to both the type of weed and the area you’re working in,’ says Mark Hewett, Divisional Sales Manager for Garden Tools & Accessories at Wilkinson Sword and Town & Country. ‘When it comes to how to get rid of weeds, different weeds have different root systems – from shallow, surface-rooted invaders like daisies and moss, to deeper tap-rooted weeds such as dandelions – so using the right approach and tool makes removal quicker, more effective and far less disruptive to surrounding plants.’

1. Keep on top by weeding little and often

‘The key to successful weeding is consistency,’ says Mark. ‘Tackling weeds little and often prevents them from establishing strong root systems, making them much easier to remove and a speedier way to get rid of weeds.'

‘It’s also best to weed after rain or watering, when the soil is softer, and roots can be lifted more cleanly. Wherever possible, aim to remove weeds at the root rather than just cutting them back (which is a classic weeding mistake), as removing the root will help prevent regrowth.’

2. Tackle deep-rooted weeds

‘For weeds with deeper tap roots, such as dandelions or dock, it’s recommended to use tools that can get underneath and lift the root system,’ advises Mark. ‘A weed grubber, like this Carbon steel weed grubber, £6.99, Wilkinson Sword, is ideal for this, as its leverage design helps pry out weeds cleanly from lawns and borders, removing the root as well as the foliage.’

‘For more precise work in crowded flower beds, a weeding knife is particularly effective. It’s narrow blade allows gardeners to target individual weeds in tight spaces, making it especially useful around delicate planting where accuracy is important. It can also double up as a planting tool for bulbs and seedlings.’

Shop for weeding knives

3. Clear surface weeds and lawns more easily

‘For shallow-rooted weeds, such as daisies, or to get rid of weeds spreading across lawns and borders, surface-level tools are often the most efficient,’ advises Mark.

‘A long-handled tool, like this stainless steel Dutch hoe, £34.99, Wilkinson Sword, is ideal for slicing weeds just below the soil surface, allowing you to clear larger areas quickly while minimising disruption to the soil.’

4. Target paths, patios and hard surfaces

‘When it comes to how to remove weeds from a patio, then these hard-to-reach, stubborn weeds growing between paving slabs or in compacted areas require a more targeted solution,’ advises Mark. ‘A patio scraper or patio knife with an L-shaped blade designed specifically for this purpose, like this stainless steel hand patio knife, £12.99, J. Parker's, can get into narrow gaps or remove weeds and moss at the root, helping to keep hard landscaping clean without chemicals.’

‘For a different, heat-based approach to weed control, the Weed Wand, £19.99, Town & Country, offers a chemical-free way to tackle unwanted growth across larger hard surfaces. It uses intense heat to destroy the internal cell structure of weeds, causing them to wither and die back naturally, making it particularly effective on driveways, paths and patios. As a bonus, it’s a versatile year-round tool that can also be used as a barbecue fire starter and path de-icer in winter.’

For a speedy way of tackling weeds in paving, an electric weeder, like the QVC weed sweeper, £64.92, that we tested, will remove stubborn weeds in-between slabs in a jiffy with no back-breaking bending over required. And for tricky weeds growing in block paving, Ideal Home's Gardens Editor Sophie was impressed with Newman and Cole's long-handle weed brush, £9.97, from Amazon, which worked a treat on her driveway.

5. Go deeper in beds and hard-to-reach areas

‘For lighter, targeted work in flower beds, a small hand-held weed fork is comfy and easy to use and will help lift weeds with minimal disturbance to surrounding plants,' says Mark.

‘In more established garden borders, a long-handled weeding fork will allow gardeners to reach further into planting beds without disturbing surrounding plants or needing to bend excessively, making them ideal for more mature or densely planted spaces.’

Shop for hand-held weeding tools

6. Get to grips with really stubborn weeds

When it comes to those really hard-to-remove weeds that have a long tap root, like large dandelions and thistles, then a stand-up weeder, like the Spear & Jackson weed puller, £30, Argos, can come in super-useful at pulling out the weed by its roots, while being easier on the back too. At the end of a long handle, there is a set of prongs on a hinge with a foot lever. Simply place the prongs over the top of the weed, step on the lever to close the prongs and then pull. The entire weed and root should come out intact.

Alternatively, Ideal Home's Senior Digital Editor, Jenny, is a big fan of the Root Slayer shovel, £48.71, at Amazon, which has a serrated edge that slices through soil or the roots of weeds with ease and is great for getting rid of large or stubborn weeds in garden borders.

How do you tackle weeds in your garden? Are there any favourite weeding tools that you'd recommend?

The yearly No Mow May is upon us, and it's time to skip mowing your lawn for this month – and beyond, if you can.

Taking part in this crucial annual campaign is essential to our pollinators, who need all the help they can get. Whether you stop mowing your entire lawn or keep a strip free, weeds will start to appear, especially if we have warm weather. This can be off-putting to those of us who like our gardens to look neat and tidy. 'No Mow May is great for wildlife, but weeds can soon get the upper hand if you do nothing,' says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

We've spoken to our gardening experts to find out how we can keep weeds in check and get rid of them fast, whilst still taking part in this vitally good cause.

1. Decide what 'weeds' are an issue

What's a weed to some might not be deemed a weed to others... so establishing what you feel is okay to keep is the first port of call.

'Not all “weeds” need to be treated as a problem,' says Tim Clapp, head of range and qualified botanist at Verve. 'Plants such as clover, daisies, self-heal and dandelions provide valuable nectar and pollen for bees and other pollinators, particularly at a time when food sources can fluctuate.'

These essential 'weeds' can also improve soil health by fixing nitrogen or adding organic matter. Tim adds, 'The focus should be on managing more aggressive or invasive weeds such as docks, thistles, nettles, and bindweed – these can quickly take over and outcompete other plants.'

2. Get mulching

A good yet natural suppresser is mulching, which works by blocking the light whilst also feeding the area.

'Applying a layer of mulch such as compost, bark, or well-rotted organic matter around plants and across bare soil helps reduce weed growth,' advises Tim. 'It also improves moisture retention and soil structure over time, making it easier to manage beds with less ongoing effort.'

Richard Barker, horticultural expert at LBS Horticulture, agrees, 'This will smother weeds and stop them from germinating. You can add to this by placing sheets of cardboard down before applying a layer of mulch on top, as the cardboard will naturally decompose over time.'

RocketGro organic magic mulch is chemical-free and eco-friendly, £28.47 for 50 litres, Amazon. It has great reviews and is known for suppressing weeds by up to 95% while retaining soil moisture.

3. Back to basics

Removing weeds naturally is always better than reaching for the chemicals. 'Hand pulling is still the best weapon, especially on anything flowering or about to seed,' suggests Julian. 'Pull them now, and you'll save yourself trouble later.'

Tim agrees, 'Traditional hand tools also remain the most effective options. For example, draw hoes are ideal for cutting through established weeds just below the surface, and Dutch hoes are best for regular, light weeding – slicing off young growth in dry conditions so it quickly desiccates.'

We particularly love the Dutch hoe as the long handle is great for saving our backs! The Spear & Jackson design is currently £15 at Argos and has great reviews. It's lightweight and comes with a mirror-polished double-edged blade that makes it very efficient.

Shopping essentials for No Mow May

4. Keeping tidy

Keeping on top of your lawn will help no end – especially if it has neat edges. Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation, explains, 'It will make it look professionally cared for, so even when not mowing your lawn in May, this still shows you are looking after it. Sharp edges also help to reduce the opportunity for grass to spread into your garden borders, where it would compete with your plants for moisture and nutrients.'

According to Julian, you don't need to go too mad, 'A bit of light tidying keeps the garden from looking abandoned and from letting weeds take over. It’s all about letting things grow a bit wilder while still keeping a bit of control.'

If you love traditionally styled tools, then consider the Greenman edging iron with an ash handle and stainless steel blade, £24.33, from Amazon. Got a large lawn that requires extra help with the edging? B&Q's Flymo Contour 9669523-01 electric corded grass trimmer, £55, has an efficient motor, and its scrubbing mode allows you to reach under shrubs and plants.

5. Supporting the wildlife

It's imperative that whichever way you want to stop weeds taking over your garden during No Mow May, you support your wildlife.

'Allowing a mix of flowering plants to establish naturally, or introducing wildlife-friendly planting, helps create a more resilient garden,' says Tim. 'These plants not only support pollinators but also attract beneficial insects that help keep pests in check. Over time, this reduces the need for intervention and creates a more balanced ecosystem within the garden.'

Tim believes in targeting key areas rather than the whole garden. For example, pathways, seating areas and high-use spaces. 'This keeps the garden functional without disrupting areas you may want to develop more naturally.'

Nectar-rich flowers are perfect for this, consider lavender – bees and butterflies adore it – Crocus sell pots of the Hidcote variety with prices starting from £7.99. Another option is sunflowers, which are great fun to grow. The Russian Giant Start-A-Garden seeds are a good place to start, £1.49 for 25 seeds, Thompson & Morgan.

6. Designate a zone

If the thought of not mowing your entire lawn for a month fills you with dread, but you want to help wildlife – or you want a space for your children to play in – then you can designate zones.

Lucie explains, 'An option is to simply leave an area of your lawn uncut and mow the rest. This still means you can let wildflowers bloom in areas of your lawn to benefit visiting pollinating insects, whilst at the same time continuing to use your lawn. If you didn’t leave one section uncut, you could always mow different sections of your lawn each week, allowing the growth of wildflowers to form a meadow but still keeping a well-maintained lawn.'

Another idea is to mow a path through your lawn or get creative and create a shape. 'For example, you could cut a spiral shape into a square lawn, so that the area you have mown is distinct from the areas you have left ‘wild’. You could cut stripes through your lawn, leaving strips uncut for wildflowers to bloom and having perfectly manicured strips on either side,' suggests Lucie.

FAQs

'Allowing the grass to grow longer provides a more sheltered environment for insects and increases biodiversity,' says Lucie. Follow our guide to keep your weeds at bay during this important month, and enjoy seeing the pollinators thrive.

Between now and early June is the best time to plant your dahlia tubers – as long as the risk of frost has gone.

With some dahlia varieties like Café au Lait being so popular and selling out fast, it pays to get the planting right so you can enjoy your blooms to the max.

Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation, agrees, 'It is vitally important that when you are planting dahlias that you plant them to the correct depth otherwise you risk the chance of things going wrong later on.'

What you'll need

The correct depth

Like any bulbs and tubers, it's important to plant them correctly, especially when you've invested in them and want good results.

'We recommend planting dahlia tubers 4-6 inches deep, so roughly about the length of your hand,' advises Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centre.

You do need to prep the ground first, says Lucie, 'Use a fork to break up and loosen the soil to a depth of sound 25 to 30cm, removing any weeds, stones or debris so the tubers can grow without any obstructions. Then add in a generous layer of leaf mould, garden compost or well-rotted manure (we like RocketGro's manure, £9.99 from Crocus), mixing it into the soil so it prepares the ground for these heavy feeders to start growing.'

Julian adds, 'Water sparingly until shoots emerge, stake early for wind support, and pinch out the first buds at 20-30cm for bushier plants with more flowers.'

Shop our mulching top picks

Why is the depth important?

'Planting them correctly avoids thick, fleshy tubers rotting, delayed blooming when planted too deep or if not deep enough, then when in bloom, they may not be anchored in the ground securely enough, and the top-heavy stems will fall over,' explains Lucie.

It also protects them according to Julian, 'The depth shelters the tuber from frost and from drying out without delaying shoots. Plant them horizontally with eyes (growth points) facing up in fertile, well-drained soil, spaced 45-60cm apart.'

But what about different soil types? 'You can tweak the depth you plant your dahlia tubers if you have either sandy or clay soil in your garden,' advises Lucie. 'Whilst the perfect soil for dahlias to thrive in would be loam soil, a balanced mix of sand, silt and clay so that it retains moisture without becoming waterlogged, holds nutrients and has good aeration for strong root growth, in reality we are usually faced with soil which is not perfect.'

If you're not sure of your soil type, have a look at the UK Soil Observatory website, input your location, and it will give you that information.

Where to buy dahlias

There are some great dahlias tuber deals around currently:

• J. Parkers: Add decorative style with this eye-catching variety Dahlia 'Smokey', one tuber for £1.99
• GardeningExpress: Check out this dinner plate variety, which is similar to the very popular Café au Lait – Café au Lait Twist, £1.99 each.
• Amazon: For a variety of colours and shapes, have a look at these mixed dahlia tubers, 5 for £16.95

Planting dahlias in containers

'Dahlia tubers are usually available from February, which is too early to plant them directly outside, so I pot mine up first and pop them in the greenhouse, polytunnel or coldframe,' says Nick Hamilton, owner of Barnsdale Gardens. 'They are potted at the same depth they should be planted if putting them directly in the ground, so that the tubers are just covered.'

Lucie likes to use the 'hilling' method when she plants her dahlia tubers in pots. It involves covering the tuber with 3 to 5cm of soil and once shoots start to emerge above the surface of the soil, you would add more compost to cover the shoots, progressing in this fashion until the pot is full.'

Follow our guide to perfect planting depth for your dahlia tubers and in a few months, you'll have wonderful displays of colour from this fabulous variety in your containers and borders.

Every year your hydrangea shows it's starting to wake up around now and then gives you months of beautiful blooms – right? But this year, well, it's just not happening.

Whether your hydrangea is potted or in your border, a lot of factors can determine its growth.

Hydrangeas typically begin to bloom from mid-summer to autumn, though some can start in late spring, but conditions need to be right. With the help of garden experts, we look at why yours might be looking rather dormant and how to fix it.

Check for signs of life

According to Patrick Wall, horticulture expert at Verve, hydrangeas are late starters compared to many shrubs, especially after a cool or unsettled spring.

'Soil temperatures have a big impact on when buds begin to swell, and new shoots emerge. Check stems for signs of life by lightly scratching the bark – green underneath usually means the stem is alive,' he explains.

It can also depend on the type of hydrangea you have. 'Big leaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) are particularly sensitive to colder nights, while paniculata types are slower to get started,' says Patrick.

Typical big leaf varieties are like Crocus's Mophead Hydrangea in white, £19.99 for a 2 litre pot.

Now that you know your hydrangea is alive, we can look at other reasons why it might not be growing yet.

1. Late frosts

'A mild spell followed by a late frost can damage fresh buds before they fully open. This is especially common with mophead and lacecap hydrangeas, which flower from older stems formed the previous year,' says Patrick.

Lacecap hydrangeas are really pretty. Check out Amazon's Serrata Preziosa hydrangea, £13.99 for a 15-30cm pot.

Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres, agrees, 'This, as well as overly wet soil from too much rain, can cause root rot which is common in the UK after our winters. Inspect your roots: brown and mushy means rot, whereas firm and white suggests it's dormant.'

Frosts that happen in late spring can be the most damaging, says Richard Baker, horticultural expert and director of LBS Horticulture. 'If there are any late overnight frosts expected, try to protect hydrangeas with fleece, or move potted hydrangeas to a more sheltered location.'

2. The roots might be establishing

A bit like the swan gliding along the river analogy, the same can be said for what might be going on underneath the soil.

Patrick explains, 'Recently planted shrubs often focus their energy underground before putting on strong top growth. This can make them appear slow or inactive during their first season.'

To counter this, keep the soil moist during the warmer months and feed lightly with a balanced shrub fertiliser in the spring, like Empathy tree and shrub bio fertiliser granules, £13.98, B&Q. 'Avoid overfeeding with high nitrogen products, which can encourage soft growth,' advises Patrick. 'Be patient – most hydrangeas establish strongly by their second year.'

3. It's not got enough moisture

Although we tend to have more wet days than dry here in the UK, our hydrangeas still need the right moisture levels to thrive.

Richard agrees, 'If the plant does not receive enough water, this can stunt growth and cause it to fail to produce flower buds. A drought in the previous year can also affect flowering the year after.'

Positioning is also important; if yours is located in full sun, it will need more watering. 'Too much direct sunlight can stress hydrangea plants, causing them to conserve their energy by not producing flowers,' says Richard.

We like the Spear & Jackson Kew 9L French style watering can, £28, from Argos, it's super stylish and does the job perfectly.

4. Age

The age of your hydrangea can impact its growth at both ends of the scale.

Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation explains, 'If you have recently introduced a hydrangea into your garden or if it is immature (younger than three years), then this could mean that it may take longer to start growing in spring than older ones. This is due to the young shrubs concentrating their energies on becoming established and producing a strong, healthy root system, which will result in them being much slower to produce new foliage.'

The same can happen with older plants, as when their stems become woody, they are less productive.

To accommodate this, correct pruning is key, as mistakes can be made with hydrangeas. 'Every spring, take out a couple of the oldest stems, pruning them back to the base to stimulate new growth. However, if you haven’t been doing this and your hydrangea is very overgrown with thick, old, woody stems, then you may need to cut all the stems back to about 15cm from the ground in late winter,' suggests Lucie.

Woody hydrangea stems require stronger secateurs; as such, we recommend Burgon & Ball's dark wood bypass design, £24, B&Q, as they're strong and sharp.

Essentials that will help your hydrangeas grow

There are a number of reasons why your hydrangea isn't growing; we've listed the top four. Give your plants some love and most of all, have a little patience, as we've had a wet winter.