At this time of year, I'm finding that keeping on top of laundry feels a bit like a never-ending job in our house. With the weather turning a tad on the chilly side, I can no longer rely on the washing line; I've been looking at ways to dry my clothes faster indoors. Enter Beldray Anti-static tumble dryer balls, £9.99 on Amazon.

I'm a big fan of using one of the best heated clothes airers alongside a dehumidifier for speeding things up, but there are inevitably loads that end up in the tumble dryer too, such as towels, bedding and the bottomless pile of my daughters' tiny clothes. So this handy addition to my laundry routine has been a bit of a game-changer in our house.

Here's why you should grab a pack of these energy-saving must-buys.

There's nothing really complicated about these bad boys. You pop the two balls into your tumble dryer alongside wet laundry and start your cycle as normal.

How they work is pretty simple too. As the drum turns and the balls move between the clothes, they help lift and separate them rather than allowing everything to clump together. This means that more warm air can circulate around them, which Beldray says helps your laundry dry faster and more evenly. And they're right. They've really helped speed up drying time and have made a noticeable difference when I'm trying to dry mega loads.

My usual drying cycle takes around two and a half hours, and these guys have reduced the time to, on average, one and a half. However, it depends on how much I'm washing I've put on and the type of items I'm drying.

They've been most useful for bedding, because without the dryer balls the sheets twist themselves into one enormous bundle, leaving lots of damp patches trapped in the middle. And I'd say they've become invaluable when I'm doing several loads in one day on laundry day (aka most days).

Not only do they help with drying laundry faster, but Beldray have designed these reusable balls so they also help reduce static and soften fabrics as they tumble. And the biggest advantage is that the design can also help minimise wrinkles and creases too.

As someone who tests plenty of steam irons and steamers, and spends more time than I'd like tackling a mammoth ironing pile, I'm here for anything that makes that job a little easier!

Now I won't claim that these two little balls are going to dramatically slash your energy bills or suddenly make a full load dry in half the time, but I have noticed that my laundry dries faster and more evenly when I use them, and that is definitley not something to sniff at.

More tumble dryer balls I rate

They're a small addition to my routine, but I've found they make a big difference with the bulky loads I'm trying to dry at the minute. For £10 and with no effort at all to use, they'll be in and out of every drying cycle from now on!

Autumn signals the end of a rose’s growing season, but that doesn’t mean you should neglect your plant. In fact, knowing what to do with roses is crucial if you want to conserve their health and strength.

Roses need a number of things in autumn to help them wind down for the year. It’s the perfect time to crack down on diseases, for example, and even train climbers and ramblers. The simple tasks you complete now can determine how healthy a plant you take into 2027.

Here’s a list of things to do with roses in October to give your plant all the care it needs ahead of winter.

What you'll need

1. Target diseases

When I spoke to Harkness Roses’ founder, Philip Harkness, he told me that one of the main tasks for roses in October is tackling plant diseases. Culprits like rust and black spot are among the most common rose problems, but they won’t always spell doom for the plant - especially if you nip them in the bud.

‘It is a good time of year to collect the diseased leaves from the ground and from the plants and dispose of them,’ Philip said.

You can also buy treatments that control fungus and even aphids, like RoseClear from Amazon.

2. Give them a light trim

Hard pruning is well, a hard no for roses in October, since the ideal time to prune roses is during the colder months, but you can give some types a light tidy this month.

‘If the roses have no more flower buds coming, then give the plants a light autumn trim,’ says Philip.

Dead, damaged or diseased growth should be the targets, but you can be a little more strategic with climbing roses.

‘Avoid the main framework of stems altogether, only cutting side shoots that are crossing or sticking out to just above a bud,’ advises Paul Parker from plants and bulbs specialist J. Parker’s. ‘In the early autumn months, you should focus on only pruning the long shoots that may be susceptible to wind damage.’

Use a sharp pair of bypass secateurs like the Spear & Jackson Razorsharp Advantage Bypass Secateurs from Amazon to make clean cuts on the plant.

3. Train climbers and ramblers

Speaking of climbing roses, October is the perfect time to train any rambling or climbing varieties. Many gardeners grow climbing roses for privacy, but they’ll need a bit of guidance to create the framework you’re looking for.

‘October is a good time to train climbers and ramblers,’ says Philip Harkness. ‘Where there are new long shoots, tie them in. During October, these stems are usually still pliable, so you can bend them to the shape and position you require.’

Bendy garden twine like this Biostretch Garden Twine from Amazon can make the task easier. You can also buy a climbing plant training kit from B&Q, if you’re training your climbing rose from scratch.

4. Stop feeding them

Since growth is winding down for the winter, you’ll need to stop fertilising your roses in October.

‘If you continue to feed in October, the plant will be more likely to continue to produce young growth,’ explains Philip. ‘In October, the plant is wanting to prepare for winter, not be pushed into producing more growth and flowers. The growth will remain soft with a high moisture content and will be damaged by frost.’

5. Plant new roses

October is the perfect time to plant new roses, too. Container-grown plants like Rose 'Palace Kailani' from Gardening Express give you a little bit more of a head start in terms of growth, but bare-root roses are generally cheaper, and sometimes even more rewarding (since you’re growing them almost from scratch).

‘Planting in autumn is an excellent idea,’ says Philip. ‘October through to Christmas is the traditional time for planting roses. During autumn and winter, the newly planted rose will begin to get roots established, ready to burst into growth in the spring.’

Keep these October rose tasks at the top of your weekend to-do list!

Wondering where to buy bedroom curtains? I’m here to help. As Ideal Home’s Sleep Editor, I’ve spent the last five years researching where to buy all of the key ingredients needed to create a relaxing, stylish, and practical bedroom, so I know that bedroom curtain ideas are one of the finishing touches that can make or break your bedroom design.

Whether you’re looking for blackout curtains to keep the daylight at bay in the early hours of the morning, thermal curtains to keep your bedroom temperature under control, or simply some stylish ready-made or made-to-measure window dressings to introduce colour, texture and pattern into your bedroom, this is my shortlist of where to shop.

John Lewis

Ready-made: yes
Made-to-measure: yes
Fabric swatches available: 5

John Lewis sells both ready-made and made-to-measure curtains, making it easy to find a bespoke look for your bedroom.

In made-to-measure options, there are over 10,000 fabrics available, with a choice of up to six headings and a variety of linings. You can order up to five swatches online, or collect them in-store.

Once you’ve selected your fabric, you can book a free estimating appointment, where the brand's experts will measure and provide a full quote for your chosen product. Your curtains are then made, and a time to fit them is arranged.

Alternatively, there are hundreds of ready-made options too, in a variety of eyelet, pencil pleat, blackout, voile, and patterned and plain designs.

Shop now: John Lewis bedroom curtains

Dunelm

Ready-made: yes
Made-to-measure: yes
Fabric swatches available: 5

Dunelm also offers ready-made and made-to-measure curtains, with five fabric samples available to help you make your colour, pattern, and texture choice.

At Dunelm, you can have an online or in-store consultation for free, but unlike John Lewis, Dunelm's measuring service isn't free; it will cost £40 for an at-home measuring service, although this is redeemable against your fitting if you choose to proceed with your order.

Dunelm's prices for both ready-made and made-to-measure curtains are also some of the most affordable on the high street.

Shop now: Dunelm bedroom curtains

Next

Ready-made: yes
Made-to-measure: yes
Fabric swatches available: yes

Next offers both ready-made and made-to-measure bedroom curtains, with made-to-measure options handled by a third-party service called Fitting4U. You can submit an enquiry to find out exact costs for measuring and fitting.

If you opt for ready-made curtains, there are thousands of options available, including designs from Laura Ashley, Cath Kidston, William Morris, Graham & Brown, and many more.

Shop now: Next bedroom curtains

M&S

Ready-made: yes
Made-to-measure: no
Fabric swatches available: no

M&S offers only ready-made curtains, but there are over 200 options to choose from, with a wide range of widths and drops.

You can choose from eyelet or pencil pleat curtains, alongside a wide variety of weights, from lightweight voiles to soften a window or add daytime privacy to light-reducing thermal and blackout bedroom drapes.

Shop now: M&S bedroom curtains

Habitat

Ready-made: yes
Made-to-measure: no
Fabric swatches available: no

Although there's no made-to-measure service, Habitat is another good option for affordable ready-made bedroom curtains.

The brand also offers curtains made in collaboration with Morris & Co and Scion that deliver some great patterned fabrics with matching bed linen and accessories available.

Shop now: Habitat bedroom curtains

Other options

• 247 Curtains: made-to-measure and ready-made options
• Curtains2go: ready-made curtains
• Hillary's: made-to-measure curtains
• H&M: ready-made curtains
• IKEA: affordable ready-made curtains
• Select Blinds: curtain, blinds and shutters based in Scotland
• West Elm: ready-made curtains

How to choose bedroom curtains

• Ready-made or made-to-measure: Depending on where you shop, bedroom curtains are usually available in ready-made or made-to-measure options. Ready-made curtains will come in set widths and lengths, and tend to be cheaper. They're also available to buy and hang immediately. In contrast, made-to-measure curtains will have a lead time and so take longer to arrive, and they'll generally be the more expensive option of the two. The bonus is that you can get any size you want made up, and there tend to be *far* more fabric and finish choices available with made-to-measure curtains, so you can create bedroom curtains that are the exact fit for your bedroom design ideas.

• Size: Do you want your curtains to finish just below the windowsill or to reach the floor? How much width do you want in your curtain fabric? Most curtain retailers will have measurement guides in store or online, but window dressing experts often also advise using the ‘high and wide’ rule when it comes to choosing where to fit your curtain – especially when thinking about small bedroom ideas – so factor in the ‘more is more’ rule, rather than scrimping on fabric.
• Think about performance: ‘Start by thinking about what you need your curtains to do, as well as how you want them to look,’ says Helen O’Connor, product and trend manager at 247 Blinds. ‘Bedrooms have quite specific requirements in that you may want plenty of natural light during the day but privacy and a much darker environment at night.’ That might mean you layer a thin voile curtain (for daytime privacy) with a thicker lined curtain for night.

• Consider blackout or thermal options: ‘If darkness is important, look for curtains with a good-quality blackout lining and think carefully about the fit, as light can creep in around the edges of the window,’ advises Helen. ‘Full-length curtains with generous coverage can help to minimise this.’ ‘If early morning light tends to wake you before your alarm does, blackout curtains are a great choice,’ agrees Allison Tyson, head of brand strategy at Select Blinds. ‘It’s worth considering energy-saving options too,’ says Allison, such as thermal blackout curtains, ‘which can help regulate the temperature at your windows.’
• Colour, pattern, and texture: ‘Then comes the fun part, says Allison, ‘choosing the color, texture and pattern that feels at home in your space.’ When it comes to choosing the way your curtains look, ‘consider how the curtains will fit in within your wider bedroom scheme,’ says Helen. ‘Curtains introduce a large area of fabric, so colour, pattern and texture can have a real impact on how the room feels. If you like to update your bedding, paint colours and accessories fairly regularly, then opting for a versatile curtain in a colour or texture you know you’ll continue to love is a good long-term choice.’

Autumn is in full swing, and plenty of plants are still in full bloom – and if you know which plants to deadhead in October, you can extend those displays up to the first frosts.

Deadheading is the one October garden job you’ll want to crack on with if you’re keen to keep your garden looking beautiful until temperatures plummet. Removing spent blooms from the likes of dahlias and cosmos will direct their energy into producing new flowers, and keep your garden nice and tidy at the same time.

Here’s a list of plants to deadhead in October to squeeze the last blooms out of the season (although you could plant a few winter-flowering shrubs to enjoy cold-weather displays).

What you'll need

1. Cosmos

If you’re lucky enough to have cosmos growing in your garden, you’ll know they’re prolific bloomers. With the right care, the displays can continue up to the first frosts – and that’s why deadheading cosmos in October is so important.

‘They’re cut-and-come-again flowers: the more you pick for the vase or remove fading blooms, the more they’ll keep flowering, provided the weather stays mild,’ says Jane Westoby, creative director at The Hampshire Seed Company.

You can deadhead cosmos by hand or add a dedicated deadheading tool to your kit, like the Kent & Stowe Garden Life Pruning Snips.

2. Zinnias

The same principle applies to zinnias: they’re cut-and-come-again blooms, which means the more you deadhead them in October, the more flowers you’ll enjoy before the colder weather arrives.

‘If you leave spent flowers on the plant, they put energy into making seed instead,’ says Jane.

3. Dahlias

If you’re wondering what to do with dahlias in October, deadheading should be at the top of your list. At this time of the year, many dahlias are still in bloom – and you can extend those displays by nipping off faded flowers.

'Dahlias are an example where removing spent flowers can be worthwhile while they're still actively blooming,' says Ross Dyke, Hornby George's consultant horticulturist and host of the Plant Pod.

Many gardeners use a clean pair of sharp secateurs like the WOLF-Garten Bypass Secateurs (available at Amazon) to deadhead their dahlias.

4. Repeat-flowering roses

Repeat-flowering roses are another example of autumn-flowering shrubs that continue blooming until temperatures drop. The best way to keep them flowering to their fullest potential is by deadheading them throughout October.

‘I’d also keep deadheading any repeat-flowering roses,’ says Jane. ‘The principle is the same: removing fading flowers encourages the plant to put its energy into the next flush.’

It’s wise to deadhead your secateurs using a sharp pair of bypass secateurs like the Kimura® 8" Pro Bypass Garden Secateurs from Amazon.

5. Calendula

Vibrant calendula blooms can also be deadheaded in October to keep them flowering until the weather cools down. They're a self-seeding cottage garden flower, but deadheading can prevent them from spreading.

‘Once frost finishes the tender annuals, though, deadheading won’t bring them back into flower,' adds Jane.

The best time to deadhead calendula, like other plants, is once the petals begin to fade and curl.

Deadhead these plants in October to keep them flowering until the frost arrives!

It's not too late to get your seeds sown for a lovely, colourful spring and summer; in fact, now is the ideal time!

'October is your last real chance to sow hardy annuals and biennials, so they overwinter and flower early next year,' says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

There are some beautiful varieties to consider; with the help of our experts, here are the best flowers to sow now for a lovely colourful spring and summer.

1. Poppies

Poppies with their saucer-shaped heads and variety of colours, especially from the Icelandic collections, have become increasingly popular over the last two years, and it's easy to see why.

'They can be sown directly outside or in modules; these classic autumn-sown plants survive the winter and then bloom earlier and often more strongly than spring sowings,' shares Julian.

Try your hand at sowing the Iceland Mix from Thompson & Morgan; you get a whopping 1900 seeds for £3.49. Sprinkle the seeds around your borders for a joyful display next year.

Another popular poppy variety is Amazing Grey; you can buy 500 seeds for £3.49 from Marshalls Garden. They are a striking annual with smoky grey/silver petals.

2. Cornflowers

A lovely summery variety that suits cottage-style gardens is the cornflower, they're also a great self-seeder.

'A hardy annual like cornflower can also be sown in suitable conditions for an earlier display next year,' says Lance Russell, horticultural expert at Thompson & Morgan. 'The key is to choose varieties suited to autumn sowing and avoid working the soil when it is waterlogged. With a little planning now, you can get a head start on next year’s garden while still enjoying something to harvest through the winter.'

You can still direct sow them now; we like the classic blue cornflowers. Amazon sell 200 seeds for £3.40 – they're a great pollinator attractor. However, if you prefer a more colourful display, then Thompson & Morgan's Polka Dot Mix is a must, with their pretty cornflower shades of pink, lilac, white and blue, 99p for 200 seeds.

3. Ox-eye daisy

If you love daisies, then raise your game with the ox-eye daisy that can stand at 90cm tall with a lovely big daisy-like head. They are a low-maintenance variety that loves poor, well-draining soil.

According to Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Harvst Automatic Watering, now is the perfect time. 'The cooler, damper weather provides the perfect environment for the seeds to germinate and establish strong root systems before winter arrives.'

Select an area that has full sun or partial shade and where the soil is free-draining. 'These seeds need light to germinate', explains Lucie. 'After clearing the areas of weeds and raking the soil to create a crumbly, level surface, simply scatter the seeds, gently pressing them onto the surface of the soil and using a fine rose on your watering can to moisten the ground without washing away the seeds.'

Buy your seeds from Marshalls Garden; they have 20 Madonna seeds for £3.99, or buy three for £11.97.

4. Aquilegia

Aquilegia is another cottage garden classic that's easy to grow and maintain. Sometimes called columbine and granny's bonnet, they're also self-seeders. They come in a variety of colours: blues and purples, pinks, reds, yellows and creams.

'October is one of the best times to sow aquilegia seeds directly in the ground as they need a period of ‘stratification’ to break them out of dormancy,' explains Lucie.

If you adore colour like us, then pick the Pretty Bonnets Mix from Suttons, £2.79 for 220 seeds in a range of pretty pastel shades. For a purist look, opt for Lime Sorbet seeds that produce green and white flowers, £3.29 for 25 seeds at Dobies.

5. Sweetpeas

'Sweet peas are a great choice at this time of year,' says Will Williamson, horticultural expert at Squire's Garden Centres. 'Sow your sweet peas now and then overwinter them somewhere sheltered, such as an unheated greenhouse or cold frame, ready to give you earlier flowers next year.'

Lance agrees, 'For flowers, sweet peas are well worth sowing now as an autumn sowing gives them plenty of time to develop a strong root system before spring.'

Nothing much beats sweet peas in full bloom with their wonderful scent. There are some amazing colours to choose from too. We particularly love the Old Fashioned Scented Mix from Suttons that includes red, lilac and pink shades, £3.29 for 30 seeds. For a striking single colour choice, consider Princess Elizabeth, a coral/salmon colour that's very vibrant, 21 seeds for £2.85, Chiltern Seeds.

If you don't have space for a greenhouse, then do try a cold frame; we like the wooden design from Dobies, which is currently £39.99.

Essential sowing buys

Putting some time and effort into this month will be so worth it come spring and summer when you look out at your garden and see such a wonderful variety of flowers in stunning colours.

While this year’s long, hot summer left many of the plants in my garden suffering in the heat, the lavender wasn’t one of them. Despite very little water and not-much looking after, the lavender thrived and looked great all summer long.

But with summer over, it has started to look a little straggly, so finding out what to do with lavender in October is top of my autumn to-do list to ensure it comes back happy and healthy next year.

‘A Mediterranean staple, in October, the main job with lavender is to finish any autumn pruning early in the month, then leave it alone and focus on winter prep,’ advises Julian Palphramand, Head of Plants at British Garden Centres.

Read on to find out the key tasks you need to focus on this month to ensure your lavender finishes off the season in prime condition.

1. Give lavender a final trim but don’t prune it

When it comes to when to cut back lavender, the ideal pruning window is late summer, right after the flowers have faded and the bees have stopped visiting, but it’s not too late to give straggly lavender a tidy-up.

‘If you haven’t pruned your lavender yet, do a light tidy-up as soon as possible,’ advises Julian. ‘Remove all the old flower stems and trim back about 2cm of the current year’s green growth to keep the plant compact and mounded, but don’t cut into the old, bare wood.’

Lavender rarely regrows from old wood, producing most of its new growth from younger stems that still have leaves and cutting into old, woody stems can permanently harm the plant and put it at risk of frost damage.

‘Finish pruning by early to mid-October at the latest, so the plant has time to harden off before the first frosts,’ adds Julian. ‘But if you’re in late October and frost is close, it’s better to wait and do a light tidy in late February or March instead.’

‘When growing lavender, avoid pruning in October,’ agrees Craig Wilson, co-founder and gardening expert at Gardeners Dream. ‘If you cut back your lavender now, the freshly cut stems will be vulnerable to frost, which could kill your plant altogether. Your lavender can wait until springtime to be pruned to keep it well protected in the cold weather’

Shop these tidying essentials

2. Make sure your lavender isn’t sitting in soggy soil

After this year’s hot summer, low-maintenance Mediterranean plants like lavender have become a top pick for gardens going forward, but as with any sun-loving plant like this, our wet British weather can be a problem, so special care should be taken over autumn and winter.

‘As the autumn rain hits, you do need to make sure your lavender is sitting in well-drained soil and not wet, water-logged conditions,’ advises Craig. ‘If any leaves or old foliage are covering the soil, it can keep the soil too wet, which will lead to rotting. Therefore, be sure to remove any debris from the base of your lavender to improve its drainage.’

‘For hardy English lavender in the ground, good drainage is really important,’ adds Julian. ‘If your soil is heavy, add grit around the base and avoid mulching right up to the stems, which can trap moisture and encourage rot. BetterGrow coarse grit, from £5.99 at Amazon, is a great option.

‘In very exposed or wet gardens, a loose cover of straw or evergreen boughs over the plant can help protect it from harsh weather, but don’t wrap it tightly or it will sweat and rot,’ adds Julian.

3. Keep care to a minimum

‘When it comes to looking after lavender in the autumn months, keep care minimal,’ advises Julian. ‘You don’t need to feed lavender in autumn, as extra nitrogen just pushes soft growth that winter will hit harshly.’

‘And when it comes to fragrant shrubs like lavender in borders, you don’t need to water established plants unless the autumn is exceptionally dry,’ adds Julian.

When winter does arrive, you should avoid watering lavender in beds and borders if the soil is frost-free and permeable; otherwise, roots could be damaged if the water in the soil then freezes due to cold temperatures.

4. Bring potted lavender indoors if necessary

‘The type of lavender you have will depend on whether or not you need to bring your plant indoors over winter,’ advises Craig. ‘For example, French or Spanish lavender will need to be brought indoors, either into a greenhouse or on a windowsill, to avoid them being harmed by the upcoming frosty weather.’

'When it comes to overwintering lavender in pots, move tender types in pots such as French and Spanish lavender into a sheltered spot, greenhouse or cold frame before the first frost,’ adds Julian. ‘Raise them on pot feet so they don’t sit in water, and stop watering from October through to March except in prolonged dry spells.’

Shop for plant pot feet

How did your lavender fare this summer? Let us know.

A few months ago, I moved to a new house and was over the moon to finally have space for a dishwasher in my kitchen. Having dreamed of one my whole adult life, I’m happy to report that it’s every bit the game-changer I’d hoped it would be. However, I have already run into a slight issue.

Although I’ve made an effort to keep on top of cleaning my dishwasher, I’ve noticed that my drinking glasses regularly come out looking cloudy and dirty - as though there’s a white haze lingering on the glass itself. Washing them again by hand gets rid of it, but defeats the purpose of using my dishwasher in the first place.

So, I reached out to experts to see where I was going wrong and what I could do about the cloudy glasses coming out of my dishwasher. And it turns out that it’s a common problem.

Why glasses come out of the dishwasher cloudy

According to the professionals, there are two reasons why glasses look cloudy when they come out of the dishwasher. One has a quick fix, while the other is a little more complicated.

Rosy Green, Dishwashing & Cooking Product Manager at Haier UK & Ireland, says, ‘Cloudy glasses are often caused by hard water, as minerals can build up on glassware during the wash cycle.’ And this makes sense, as I’ve already shared my struggles with living in a very hard-water area of Kent and how that affects many of my other home appliances.

Using dishwasher salt like this Finish Dishwasher Salt (£4 at Amazon) will help soften the water and reduce limescale, so it is a quick, affordable fix. I can also vouch for it, as I haven’t noticed any cloudy glasses since topping up my dishwasher with this salt (and keeping it topped up, too).

If you want to take an extra step, Rosy also suggests adding a rinse aid - like this Finish Dishwasher Rinse Aid (£5.08 at Amazon) to your dishwasher. She explains, ‘It helps water drain more effectively from glassware during the final rinse, reducing the droplets that cling to the surface and leave behind water spots and streaks.’

However, there could also be a much bigger problem at play - especially if you don’t live in a hard water area or you can’t remove the cloudy residue with some white vinegar and a damp cloth. Jade Golding-Gault, AO.com’s appliance expert, echoes this warning.

She says, ‘The glass may have become permanently damaged over time. This can happen when too much detergent is used or when delicate glassware is washed at temperatures that are too high. Using the correct amount of detergent and selecting an appropriate programme for glassware can help keep glasses clearer for longer.’

Thankfully, this wasn’t the case for me. But if your glasses are cloudy because they’re permanently damaged, there’s sadly nothing you can do. It’s up to you whether you keep them or ditch them. Just remember that you can no longer recycle them due to new regulations.

Extra dishwasher tips to prevent cloudy glasses

1. Keep on top of cleaning

Dishwasher maintenance is key, Rosy says. She explains, ‘If your glasses are consistently coming out cloudy, cleaning the dishwasher filter every one to two weeks and running a dishwasher cleaner through an empty cycle once a month can also help tackle limescale and detergent build-up.’

And if your glasses are cloudy due to limescale build-up, it may be worth cleaning your dishwasher with white vinegar or citric acid, as these acidic cleaners break down alkaline mineral deposits. Alternatively, you could use a ready-made cleaner like this Dr. Beckmann Service-it Deep Clean Dishwasher Cleaner (£3.60 at Amazon).

2. Check your settings

One of the many things I’ve learned since buying and using a dishwasher is that they’re highly customisable, and certain settings can improve the overall experience - and the results. One of these is the water hardness setting.

Sophie Lane, Product Training Manager at Miele GB, says, ‘If the dishwasher is set incorrectly for the local water hardness, it can affect the finish on the glassware.’ If you’re unsure of the water hardness in your area, you can check this via your water supplier.

3. Avoid overstacking

Although there are many surprising things you can clean in a dishwasher, you still need to be careful to protect your glasses and avoid overloading or overstacking. Rosy says, ‘Avoid overcrowding glasses and make sure delicate glassware is securely positioned on the top rack to prevent movement during the cycle.’

For optimum placement, face all dirty surfaces toward the middle of the appliance, avoid piling items on top of each other or obstructing the spray arms, and place smaller items on the upper racks.

Dishwasher essentials

So, say goodbye to cloudy glasses from the dishwasher!

What to do with agapanthus in October depends on whether you have a deciduous or evergreen variety. Evergreen agapanthus have wider leaves than deciduous agapanthus and are more vulnerable to frost than deciduous varieties.

Add these agapanthus jobs to your list of garden jobs to do in October, and you'll be rewarded with beautiful flowers next summer.

1. Deadhead spent blooms

Most Agapanthus plants flower from July to September, and you can deadhead agapanthus at any time in the flowering season. However, October is a good time to remove any remaining spent flowerheads.

A pair of garden snips like these from Spear & Jackson (available on Amazon) will be ideal for the job and can help you avoid some of the most common deadheading mistakes.

'By removing spent flowers, you prevent the plant from putting energy into seed production, which can help the plant conserve energy for growth and next year's blooms. Not only this, removing old, decaying flowers can reduce the risk of diseases that thrive on decomposing plant material,’ Morris Hankinson, director of Hopes Grove Nurseries. Failing to deadhead agapanthus is one of the main reasons why your agapanthus is not flowering.

Of course, you don’t have to deadhead agapanthus; you can leave some seedheads on the plant to add winter interest to your garden – this is one of the reasons why people question whether they should deadhead alliums, too.

2. Cut back once leaves have yellowed

One of the most common mistakes with agapanthus is not knowing what to do with bulbs after flowering.

For deciduous agapanthus, wait until the spent flower stems and leaves have turned yellow (or brown) before pruning. This lets the plant continue photosynthesising and store this energy for growth next spring, supporting better blooms next year. This is exactly the same as what to do with daffodils after flowering.

On evergreen agapanthus, the foliage will not fade. Instead, leave the stems and foliage in situ so photosynthesis can continue with the energy stored for flowering next year. Broken stems or dead foliage should be removed regardless of the season.

3. Protect potted agapanthus

Evergreen agapanthus aren't as hardy as deciduous varieties. This means they need a little more care over winter and benefit from being grown in pots rather than in the ground.

For agapanthus grown in containers, move them to a light, frost-free place – an unheated greenhouse is perfect.

If you don't have a greenhouse, the RHS suggest placing pots at the bottom of a south- or west-facing wall.

You can also wrap the pots with bubble wrap, hessian or spare horticultural fleece for added protection.

4. Mulch

For agapanthus grown in the ground, mulch can be the difference between a plant making it through winter or not. After the agapanthus has finished flowering, lay a thick layer (around 15cm) of mulch around the base of both evergreen and deciduous varieties to protect the crown from frost with mulch.

Homemade compost is great for this, but if you don't have any, B&Q stocks organic Strulch which will provide ample frost protection.

Following this, experts from the RHS recommend 'wrapping all agapanthus (hardy and tender types) in two to three layers of biodegradable fleece for protection from November to early April.' This BioFleece Horticultural Fleece from Amazon is ideal for protecting Agapanthus from frost.

My garden is positively littered with fallen leaves right now – my borders are filled to the brim – but rather than throw them away, I’ve found a few ways to use fallen leaves in the garden.

Although some experts say you shouldn’t clear every leaf from your garden, you’ll want (or need) to manage larger piles of leaves. Not only can they be unsightly, but they can also get in the way of simple gardening tasks like planting spring bulbs – and no one wants to be shovelling leaf piles out of the way when they’re trying to tend to their plants.

I’ve rounded up a few ways I’ll be using fallen leaves in the garden to help you manage your autumn garden.

What you'll need

1. Make leaf mulch

If, like me, you’re wondering what to do with a huge amount of leaves in your garden, the quickest way to use them is by turning them into a leaf mulch.

Mulching has a huge number of benefits, and it becomes even more important as the weather cools down for autumn and winter. If you have something like a shredder, or a lawn mower or leaf vacuum with a mulching feature (I’m using my brand-new FLYMO EasiBlowVac, available at Currys, which shreds the leaves as it collects them), you’ll be able to turn fallen leaves into a mulch instantly.

‘You can use leaves as a mulch straight away,’ says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. ‘Shred them with a mower or leaf shredder and spread a 5cm layer around shrubs, trees and borders to suppress weeds, retain moisture and protect roots from frost, keeping the layer away from plant stems to avoid rot.

‘On the lawn, mow over fallen leaves so the blades chop them up and distribute them as a light mulch, which feeds the soil and keeps the lawn healthy.’

2. Turn them into leafmould

If you’re willing to wait a bit longer for ‘garden gold’, you can make a nutrient-rich soil conditioner called leafmould out of fallen leaves in the garden. All you need is a few bin bags!

‘Collect leaves in a wire garden bin or just a bin bag, dampen them slightly, and let them sit for a year,’ says Chris Bonnett, founder of GardeningExpress.co.uk. ‘The result is dark, crumbly leaf mould, which is a nutrient-rich, free soil conditioner that improves soil texture and water retention.’

If you want something a little more sightly than a bin bag, you can buy wire bins like this Selections 600 Litre Wire Mesh Garden Leaf Composter Bin from Amazon.

3. Put them in the compost bin

Or add fallen leaves to your compost bin. It’s one of the best ways to use fallen leaves in the garden, especially if you've already set up a composter.

‘Fallen leaves are rich in carbon, making them a perfect addition to your compost pile,’ explains Chris. ‘Mixing them with green materials like grass clippings and kitchen scraps helps create a balanced compost that breaks down efficiently.’

You can learn how to make compost in a regular bin, or go for a dedicated unit like this Verve Beehive Composter from B&Q.

4. Make shelter for wildlife

There are, of course, wildlife-friendly ways to tidy your garden for autumn, and turning fallen leaves into wildlife sanctuaries is one of them. Larger leaves make valuable shelter for all manner of insects and mammals.

‘In wilder corners, you can leave a thick layer of leaves undisturbed to create habitats for insects, frogs and other wildlife,’ suggests Julian.

You could even place some of the leaves inside a hedgehog house like this Deluxe Ventilated Hedgehog House and Hibernation Shelter from The Hutch Company on Amazon for extra insulation. Just make sure you do it when you first position the house in your garden, so you don’t disturb any residents who have already moved in!

That's how I'll be using fallen leaves in my garden this autumn. They're basically a free soil conditioner!

Nothing ruins a room's overall look quite like an overflowing clothes airer, especially if you have guests coming over. As the colder months make outdoor drying more difficult (nigh on impossible), most of us end up with laundry racks taking over our living rooms, kitchens, and bedrooms.

While practical, a traditional clothes horse (and even some of the best heated clothes airers) is rarely pretty when it's covered in washing. Thankfully, there are a number of clever ways to make drying laundry indoors less of an eyesore, from changing where and how you hang clothes to swapping a bulky floor-standing rack for a more discreet alternative.

If, like me, you're fed up with staring at laundry all week, these expert-approved solutions are worth giving a whirl.

1. Choose a clothes airer that hides the washing

If you can't hide your airer, conceal the clothes instead. Covered and screened designs are a smart option for anyone who regularly dries washing in a living space, and the Joseph Joseph Eclipse 3-tier ecru clothes airer with screen, £135 on Amazon, is one of the smartest-looking examples we've seen.

Rather than leaving every item of washing on show, it has a fabric screen down one side that helps disguise the laundry behind it. It's a small design detail but one that could make a big difference if your airer has to live in your kitchen, living room or another highly visible spot.

Richard Joseph, CEO and co-founder of Joseph Joseph, agrees. 'A covered side instantly tidies the look of laundry while adding an elevated design element to your home,' he explains. 'It's great at concealing clothes whilst blending seamlessly into your surroundings.'

Covers can also be useful for heated airers. Catrin Parry, buying lead for cleaning and laundry at Lakeland, recommends pairing a Dry:Soon heated airer with its purpose-designed cover. It conceals the clothes, helps speed up drying and is my top pick in our buying guide.

2. Swap a wide airer for a tower design

When floor space is limited, think upwards. A tall, narrow tower airer can hold a large wash while taking up less room, says Lauren Roelofs, Laundry category expert at Brabantia.

The Brabantia HangOn tower, £80 at Argos, for example, offers 23 or 30 metres of drying space, with independently folding levels and wheels making it easier to move when guests arrive.

Mary Widdall, Product Category Manager for Laundry at Minky, agrees that vertical designs suit flats and smaller homes. Slimline and extendable models can also provide drying space without permanently taking over the floor.

3. Make use of the back of the door

For smaller loads, an over-the-door airer can keep laundry off the floor and out of the centre of the room.

Brabantia's Hanging Drying Rack provides 4.5 metres of drying space and attaches to a door or suitable radiator. Lakeland's Beechwood and Steel over-the-door airer, £34.99, is another slick-looking alternative to a traditional clothes horse.

Catrin says these designs are useful for 'making the most of underused drying spaces,' and most collapse for easy storage.

4. Install a retractable washing line

This is one solution I've actually built into my own utility room that has also gone viral on Instagram. I have a brass retractable washing line, £14.99 on Amazon, that I can pull out whenever I need extra drying space and then retract completely once the washing is put away.

With a retractable clothing line, you get a useful drying space without having another bulky laundry product permanently taking up room. I also deliberately chose a brass design so that even the small part that remains visible feels like it belongs with the rest of the room rather than looking overly functional.

'For a larger wash, a wall-mounted retractable line is a practical option,' says Emma Rawley, Senior Product Manager at Beldray. 'Beldray's 16m retractable clothes line, £12.99 at Amazon, can be used indoors, provides drying room but then retracts back into its casing afterwards.'

5. Use a radiator, bath or ceiling airer

Radiator, wall-mounted, over-bath and ceiling-mounted airers make use of otherwise wasted space and keep laundry off the floor.

Lakeland's over-bath and extendable ceiling airer, £39.99, is designed for this purpose, while Minky's Over Bath Airer, £29.99 on Amazon, provides 9.5 metres of drying space above an area used only occasionally.

Radiator airers are useful for small loads, although Emma warns that they should only be used on compatible radiators and work similarly to a heated clothes airer, but should never be placed on portable or electric heaters.

6. Put small laundry on a peg airer

Socks, underwear and kids' clothes don't need to take over your main drying rack.

Richard recommends a compact peg hanger, such as Joseph Joseph's Petal 22-piece quick-grip drying hanger, £10 on Amazon. 'Peg airers can be ideal for drying smaller items without the need to assemble a full-sized airer, helping the space feel more organised and less cluttered,' he says.

Beldray's 20-peg folding airer, £9.99 on Amazon, works similarly, clipping onto an existing airer or washing line before folding away.

Separating smaller pieces makes the washing look tidier and frees the main rails for longer garments.

7. Make the laundry itself look less messy

If buying another product isn't an option, changing how you load your airer can make a difference, says the experts, whether it's a traditional clothes airer or a heated one.

Lauren recommends grouping similar garments, placing larger pieces towards the outside and smaller items inside, with underwear and socks on the lower racks. Shirts and blouses can go directly onto hangers, freeing rail space and allowing them to move straight into the wardrobe once dry.

Mary also suggests grouping similar items and colours together, while leaving space between garments rather than overlapping them.

And Emma recommends an extra spin cycle before hanging washing. Removing more water means less drying time and less looking at your airer!

Shop clothes airers you won't need to hide

Failing all that, if you're in the market for a new clothes airer, these are by far some of the prettiest looking I've found.

So there you have it! Disguising an ugly clothes airer isn't just about hiding it. Choosing a smaller or more attractive design, organising the washing and getting it dry and put away quickly can make the biggest difference, say laundry experts! Easier said than done, though!

Wondering what to do if your neighbour’s gutter overhangs your property?

An overhanging gutter alone might not be a strong case legally (with a few exceptions), but if you’re here, reading this article, it’s likely that the gutter is causing other problems – like excess rainwater damaging your property. Just like the rules around a neighbour building a shed against your fence, though, the answer isn’t straightforward – even if it crosses your property’s boundary.

‘A property owner generally owns not only the land itself but also the airspace immediately above it to the extent necessary for the ordinary use and enjoyment of the property,’ says Andrew Boast, director of SAM Conveyancing. ‘A gutter physically projecting across the boundary may therefore amount to a trespass, but that is not necessarily the end of the story. Your neighbour may have an existing legal right which allows the guttering to remain.’

If your neighbour’s gutter is overhanging your property, you'll need to check these three things before taking further action.

1. Check the deeds

Your property deeds should be the thing you look at first if you’re concerned about a neighbour’s gutter overhanging your property. They often lay out any permissions or restrictions around objects crossing your home’s boundary, including rights relating to things like the passage of rainwater. According to Andrew, the exact wording matters.

‘The most straightforward situation is where the property deeds expressly allow the gutter, roof or another part of the building to project over neighbouring land,’ Andrew explains.

In this case, your neighbour isn’t legally breaking any rules – but if other problems arise as a result of the gutter, such as rainwater being directed onto your property, things change.

‘A right allowing a gutter to overhang does not necessarily give somebody a right to discharge water onto your property,’ says Andrew.

That’s when you can take legal action, in the same way that you can if your neighbour's tree damages your fence.

2. Consider how long the gutter has been there

You’ll also need to check how long the gutter has been in place for, which can sometimes give your neighbour more rights.

‘In some circumstances, a legal right can be acquired through long and uninterrupted use, known as prescriptive easement,’ Andrew explains. ‘The commonly cited period is 20 years, but simply showing that the gutter has existed for 20 years does not automatically establish a legal right.’

Andrew says questions like whether the gutter was there continuously and whether its presence was open and obvious can all arise, and older properties can be subject to other issues like implied easements and the interpretation of historic conveyancing documents.

You’ll also need to check previous permissions…

3. See if a previous owner agreed to the gutter

Things get even more complicated when you take previous owners’ permission into account. Just as it’s wise to check with a check with a neighbour before pruning their tree, your neighbour might have got the green light from the former owners of the property – but Andrew says there’s a crucial difference between informal permission and a properly created legal easement.

‘A previous neighbour may have informally said that they were happy for the gutter to remain,’ he explains. ‘That may explain why it was installed, but it does not necessarily create a permanent right binding every future owner.

‘Evidence can therefore be crucial. Deeds, transfers, old correspondence, building agreements and statutory declarations are usually much more useful than somebody simply remembering that the previous owners were fine with it.’

What are the next steps?

If you find that your neighbour’s overhanging gutter does breach any of the above permissions and restrictions – and if it’s causing damage to your property, especially – Andrew advises chatting to your neighbour about it first. It’s always the best initial step when it comes to garden features that cause neighbour disputes.

‘Once you understand the position, a conversation with the neighbour may resolve the issue without the cost and stress of formal legal proceedings,’ says Andrew.

‘Court proceedings over a very minor projection can become disproportionately expensive, particularly where there is little practical interference with the use of the property.’

If, however, your neighbour’s overhanging gutter is causing damage to your property, you’ll want to take similar legal steps to those involved with a neighbour’s tree roots damaging your garden.

Where to buy gutter kits

With those rules in mind, you can install your own gutter without breaking any rules!

Always make these three checks before taking action against a neighbour's gutter overhanging your property.

When you think of adding autumn colour to your garden, you’re most likely thinking of flowers that bloom during this period. And while this is a strong line of thinking, ornamental grasses are just as effective at adding height, texture and colour to your garden.

Just as there are ornamental grasses that add interest to a winter garden, there are grasses that make your autumn garden look just as colourful and bold as your summer space. In fact, once paired with the best flowering autumn plants, your garden has the potential to look fabulous all year round.

Garden experts have revealed five ornamental grasses that will add colour and texture to your beds and borders, which you can plant now, so you can enjoy your garden for longer.

1. Miscanthus sinensis ‘Malepartus’

Miscanthus sinensis ‘Malepartus’ is also known as Chinese Silver Grass and is known as one of the best ornamental grasses for shade, and is perfect if you want to create strong structure within your borders.

‘Miscanthus sinensis ‘Malepartus’ is my particular favourite if you are looking to add height and drama to your outdoor space. The foliage develops warm orange, bronze and red tones as autumn progresses, while the feathery flower heads mature to silver. It also holds its structure well into winter, giving you interest long after much of the garden has died back,’ says Huw Richards, a grow-your-own enthusiast, author and YouTuber who has partnered with GARDENA.

Where to buy Miscanthus sinensis ‘Malepartus’

• Miscanthus 'Purpurascens', £7.98, Thompson & Morgan
• Miscanthus Sinensis Malepartus Chinese Silver Grass 9cm Pot Grass Plant, £17.99, B&Q
• Miscanthus 'Lady in Red', £14.99, Thompson & Morgan

2. Blue Fescue

If you want stunning grass that looks like it belongs at the bottom of the sea, you want to choose Blue Fescue. This stunning grass is not only drought-tolerant but safe for dogs, too.

‘Blue fescue is a semi-evergreen or evergreen grass that will maintain its silvery-blue colour when many other plants may be beginning to lose theirs. The blue tones of the grass can also provide contrast to other autumnal colours that may be in your garden, such as yellow, orange or red. It needs to be grown in well-draining soil, and ensure it is planted in full sun so that the colour does not fade. You should not fertilise blue fescue, as the additional nutrients can cause it to lose its bright colour,’ says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director from LBS Horticulture.

Where to buy blue fescue

• 3 x Festuca Intense Blue Plants in 10.5cm Pots - Outdoor Evergreen Garden Ready Plants Ornamental Grasses, £17.99, B&Q
• Festuca glauca Elijah Blue - Fescue - Pack of THREE, £17.95, Gardening Express
• Festuca Intense Blue - Striking Ornamental Grass for Vibrant UK Gardens - Outdoor Plant (10-20cm Height Including Pot), £11.99, B&Q

3. Hakonechloa macra

If you’re looking to create a Zen garden, Hakonechloa macra is an ideal choice, and is included on the list because of its vivid green foliage.

‘For a shadier corner, Hakonechloa macra is an excellent option. Instead of growing tall and upright, it forms graceful, cascading mounds that bring softness and movement to paths, borders and areas beneath shrubs. Its fresh green leaves gradually take on warm red-brown tones in autumn as the season progresses. It’s a lovely way to bring autumn colour into parts of the garden where many sun-loving ornamental grasses won’t thrive,’ says Hue.

Where to buy Hakonechloa macra

• Hakonechloa Macra Hakonechloa 2 Litre Pot Grass Plant, £25.99, B&Q
• Hakonechloa macra 'Aureola', £12.99, Thompson & Morgan
• Hakonechloa macra, £29.99, Sarah Raven

4. Japanese Blood Grass

As you might have guessed, Japanese Blood Grass has vivid streaks of red in its foliage, which add a striking pop of colour to your garden.

‘Japanese blood grass is great for adding autumn colour to your garden, as the blades turn crimson or burgundy as the weather begins to cool down. The intense red colour of the grass can be used to contrast other fading plants or green and silver foliage. The plant needs a few hours of sunlight a day for the brightest red colour, as the blades may remain green in partial shade,’ says Richard.

Where to buy Japanese blood grass

• 3 x Imperata Blood Grass 'Red Baron' 3 Plants in 9cm Pots, £19.99, Tesco
• Thompson & Morgan Imperata Grass Red Baron - Potted Plant x 1, £9.99, Robert Dyas
• Imperata cylindrica rubra Red Baron - Japanese Blood Grass, £12.95, Gardening Express

5. Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Hameln’

If you have a small garden, consider adding Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Hameln’ as it’s compact and grows between 60 and 80 cm; it doesn’t get as tall as other grasses on the list.

‘Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Hameln’ is great if your space is slightly more compact but you are still looking to add character. The bottlebrush flower heads are the main attraction, while the foliage takes on warm yellow tones as autumn progresses. Because it doesn't reach the scale of the larger Miscanthus grasses, it's particularly handy in smaller gardens and mixed borders,' says Hue.

Where to buy pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Hameln’

• Pennisetum alopecuroides 'Hameln', from £7.99, Crocus
• Pennisetum Alopecuroides Hameln | Fountain Grass, £19.99, primrose
• Pennisetum alopecuroides Hameln - Chinese fountain grass 3 x 9cm pots, £26.99 at B&Q

While flowers are a solid choice for pretty colour, don't neglect all the beautiful ornamental grasses on offer to you.

Ever heard of Elaeagnus? Gardening expert and television presenter David Domoney thinks it’s one of the best evergreen shrubs you can plant for autumn scent.

There are plenty of autumn-flowering shrubs you can plant to keep your garden in bloom as the rest of the garden winds down for the year, but if you’re looking for a plant that retains its foliage all year round, Elaeagnus (also known as silverberry) might be the most underrated pick.

In David’s recent Instagram reel, he explains exactly why Elaeagnus is such a remarkable plant – and why it works a little differently from many other evergreen shrubs.

We’re spoilt for choice when it comes to evergreen plants for borders, but Elaeagnus isn’t one you usually spot on a list of recommendations. David thinks it’s one of the best shrubs you can plant for autumn interest, though.

‘There are few plants that give so much all year round as this Elaeagnus [with its] beautiful evergreen variegated foliage,’ said David in his Instagram reel.

David’s talking about variegated varieties like Elaeagnus × submacrophylla 'Limelight', which you can buy from Crocus. But it isn’t just the foliage that steals the show – its seasonal cycle, David explains in the caption, is the opposite of many other evergreen shrubs, because it flowers in autumn and produces fruits in the spring.

‘Fragrant flowers appear in autumn, rather than spring,’ David wrote in the caption. ‘They may be small and subtle, but their scent can be surprisingly powerful, and they can be valuable for late-flying pollinators.’

Elaeagnus, then, is ideal if you’re looking for scented shrubs that will fill your garden with gorgeous fragrance during the autumn months. After that, you’ll spot a wave of fruit in the spring, which are often orange or red in colour.

'Elaeagnus is brilliant for autumn fragrance because several of the best evergreen types, especially Elaeagnus × ebbingei and E. pungens, flower in autumn, from September into November, with small, creamy-white flowers that release an intense, sweet perfume,' agrees Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

'The scent is strong enough to carry across the garden, yet the flowers themselves are modest and tucked into the foliage, so you get the perfume without a showy display.'

Plus, Elaeagnus is really easy to look after, since it’s such a hardy shrub - and if you're looking for low-maintenance evergreen shrubs that provide privacy all year round, you'll want this one on your radar.

‘Elaeagnus is also a tough, adaptable shrub, making it particularly useful for hedging, screening and exposed gardens, including many coastal locations,’ David added.

The good news? You can plant Elaeagnus now.

'Pot-grown plants can be planted year-round as long as the ground isn’t frozen or waterlogged,' says Julian. 'Autumn planting is ideal because the soil is still warm and roots keep growing until winter, giving the shrub a head start for spring. Plant in well-drained soil, firm in well, water thoroughly, and mulch to protect the roots over winter.'

Planting kit

If you want to keep your garden smelling lovely this autumn and retain attractive foliage over the winter months, plant Elaeagnus now.

During autumn and winter, our borders can look a little uninspiring and patchy. To combat this, you can fill them with evergreen plants to close up gaps.

Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres, explains, 'For evergreen ground cover that actually fills a border and keeps weeds down, you want plants that spread steadily but don’t run away.'

Not sure what to consider? Julian and our other gardening experts give their top five plants below.

1. Bugleweed

Bugleweed is a low-growing, quick-covering variety that works particularly well around shrubs and trees. It has bluey flowers from April to June and is a member of the mint family.

'Most varieties of bugleweed have glossy foliage that keeps its colour all year,' says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture. 'If you live somewhere that experiences harsher winters or heavy snow, some varieties will behave like semi-evergreens, meaning that they may lose some leaves before bouncing back in spring. The leaves of bugleweed grow to form a dense carpet and can range in colour depending on the species being grown.'

Burgundy Glow is a lovely variety that has lilac/purple leaves and is very low maintenance; buy a 9cm pot to get started, £4.99, J.Parkers. For a hint of colour in the spring, consider Black Scallop for its dark, near-black leaves and deep blue flowers in the spring; £12.90 for a 9cm pot, Farmer Gracy.

2. Pachysandra

'A great groundcover plant for shade or partial shade is the Pachysandra, which is as tough as they come and very adaptable to soil type,' says Nick Hamilton, owner of Barnsdale Gardens. 'I love the variety 'Green Carpet, with its fresh green leaves and its small spikes of white flowers in early summer.'

Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation, loves it too: 'Japanese spurge is a robust, low-growing, evergreen perennial ideal for tricky north-facing gardens as it thrives in partial to deep shade, growing very often in difficult spots where it’s hard to grow other plants.'

According to Lucie, if you want to introduce this into your garden borders, then anytime between September and November is great, as the soil will still be warm from the summer months whilst autumn rains will provide the moisture these plants need to help them establish quickly.

The most common variety has dark green leaves with serrated edges and loves sun and shade; you can buy a 9cm pot for £7.99 from Crocus.

3. Bergenia

Bergenias have bold, paddle-shaped leaves; hence the other name it has: 'elephant's ears'. They are great for ground cover and flower with white, pale pink and magenta flowers from February to April.

'A shade-loving plant, Bergenia (elephant’s ears) gives big, glossy leaves that often colour bronze in winter, plus spring flowers, and it’s tough enough for tricky spots,' says Julian.

Also good in rock gardens, we like the Rosi Klose variety for its pink flowers, £9.99 for a 2-litre pot, GardeningExpress. The white version has really pretty flowers that stand out well against the leaves: Bressingham White, £11.99 for a 2-litre pot, GardeningExpress.

4. Vinca minor (lesser periwinkle)

Vinca minor, or lesser periwinkle as it's also called, is another great evergreen that produces flowers during the spring months.

'It's a classic: glossy evergreen leaves, blue or white flowers in spring, and it copes well in dry shade,' says Julian.

Richard adds, 'Periwinkle is a tough plant that can thrive in all but the most extreme soil, and it makes for a good ground cover plant. Although not as invasive as greater periwinkle, lesser periwinkle can still escape your garden to grow in other places, so it should be cut back regularly.'

For a pop of purple, choose the Bowles' Variety, from £11.99, Thompson & Morgan. It's great for encouraging spreading over areas nothing else will grow on. For superb colour, consider Illumination, £12.99 for a 1 litre pot, GardeningExpress. This special variety has golden variegated foliage and mauve-blue flowers in spring and early summer.

5. Creeping phlox

'Creeping phlox is an evergreen perennial that will retain its low-growing mat of foliage through winter,' shares Richard. 'The needle-like leaves of the plant usually stay green all year, but cold winter winds can make small areas of the leaves turn brown. In spring, the plant produces a colourful carpet of star-shaped flowers, and as it forms a tight-growing mat it naturally suppresses weeds.'

Perhaps one of our favourites for its beautiful colours, creeping phlox is a perennial herbaceous plant that can be planted underneath trees and shrubs this autumn.

The Bavaria variety is super pretty with its white flowers that have a purple centre, from £8.99 for a 9cm pot, Crocus. The evergreen foliage and ease of spread doubled with stunning colours, are what you get with the creeping phlox collection, from £8.99, Dobies. You get a variety of colours, and they come as plug plants.

Shopping essentials

Investing in evergreen ground cover plants now will transform your garden, ready for next year – and give you some colour too – and suppress weeds, which we love! Check out our top five and see which you love the best.

Monty Don just posted another sweet photo of his dog, Ned, but I spotted a background star: the water butt.

Learning how to install a water butt has got to be one of the best things you do for your garden – it's brilliant insurance against heatwaves and hosepipe bans, and it contributes towards a more sustainable garden. In one of Monty’s latest Instagram posts, a rustic water butt is the thing that grabbed my attention – and it’s convinced me that plastic water butts are a thing of the past.

Because why settle for a boring tank when you can make your rain collector a stylish feature in your garden?

In Monty Don’s Instagram post, there’s a background star (Ned, of course, being the main character): the galvanised steel water butt that’s rusting away in front of the shed.

That might not sound like the best condition you’ve ever heard of, but if you’re aware of how trendy corten steel planters became in the garden last year, you’ll know that it’s exactly the kind of thing gardeners go for when they’re curating a rustic garden design scheme. It complements the wooden shed and corrugated metal roof behind it beautifully, and it’s large enough to carry a hefty load of water.

It inspired me to hunt down the next best thing (since Monty’s looks like a one-of-a-kind antique piece), and I stumbled across the Garden Trading Galvanised Steel Water Butt, which you can buy from Crocus. It’s not as big as Monty’s, but it’s a great starting point – and it would pair beautifully with a pretty rain chain. It’s galvanised, so it won't rust as readily as Monty's, but it's perfect if you’re aiming for an industrial look.

Water butts are actually one of the best ways to water your garden during a hosepipe ban, since you’re allowed to connect a hosepipe to one (or, of course, you could use it to fill your watering can).

Better still? Owning a water butt is a water-saving habit that experts swear by, and they often argue that rainwater is better for your plants, too.

Unique water butts and rain collectors

Garden Trading has plenty of pretty water butts to offer, but here are a few of my favourites.

If Monty's post taught me any anything, it's that water butts can be stylish – even when they're weather-worn!

If you've been thinking about buying a heated clothes airer ahead of the colder weather, I've found a budget Beldray option that really impressed me in testing. The Beldray winged electric heated airer, £49.99, is affordable, quick to heat up and most importantly, I found it surprisingly speedy at drying my clothes.

Having tested plenty of the best heated clothes airers, I know that you can easily spend upwards of £100 on one. But what stood out to me about this Beldray airer was just how effective it felt for its price. It also has a relatively compact, familiar winged design, so it didn't feel like it was taking over the room, which is a huge bonus if you're trying to dry laundry in a smaller space.

Here's a little more about why it's an absolute bargain and a must-buy.

Speed was one of the first things I noticed about this heated airer. Its heated bars get warm quickly, so you don't have to wait long for it to start getting to work on damp laundry.

However, there is a knack to getting the best results from this winged style of heated airer. Because the heat is concentrated around the bars, I found it worked best when I moved and repositioned my clothes periodically. This helps different parts of the items come into contact with the heated rails rather than one section drying much faster than the rest.

Alternatively, I took heated airer advice from the laundry experts, and rather than hanging one garment from a single bar, you can drape it across a number of heated bars. This gives more of the fabric contact with the heat and can help it dry more evenly. I've found that this is particularly handy for smaller items, such as my kids' clothes, which fit easily across the main section without taking up too much drying space.

I'd also recommend using it with a heated airer cover, like Beldray's cover, £7.99 on Amazon. A cover helps trap the warm air around your laundry rather than allowing it to escape straight into the room, creating a warmer environment and helping the airer work more effectively.

Its size was another big win for me. Some of the larger three-tier models I've tested offer a huge amount of drying space, but they can feel cumbersome, especially in smaller homes. The winged design of this one felt much more manageable while still providing enough space for an everyday load of washing.

Now, I'll admit, it is a fairly simple heated airer, but I don't necessarily see that as a negative. If you want an affordable way to speed up indoor drying without a huge appliance taking over your room, this does the job remarkably well.

More heated clothes airers I rate

And if this heated clothes airer isn't quite fitting with what you need, there are plenty of other models I rate that are well worth a look.

If you're a heated airer that won't cost a fortune ot ake over a room, I think this Beldray model is a brilliant budget buy. It's simple, heats up quickly and with a little repositioning of your clothes as they dry, gets the job done. Happy drying!

While much of the garden will be looking bleak and barren come December, adding a few cheery winter-flowering plants in containers is an easy way of brightening things up so the outlook doesn’t feel so grey.

And now is the perfect time to get planting if you’re thinking about container plants that will bloom in time for Christmas. Get plants started off now and you’ll be giving them a head start, resulting in a brighter and bolder display of winter-flowering blooms when December comes around.

‘For colour that lasts into December, look at a mix of hardy winter bedding plants, late perennials and a few shrubs that will genuinely keep on going,’ says Julian Palphramand, Head of Plants at British Garden Centres. ‘Pansies and violas are brilliant workhorses at this time of year and will flower through most winters, especially in pots or sheltered borders. But there are plenty of other options that will bring winter colour too.'

1. Christmas rose

‘One of my favourite plants for adding winter colour to a garden is the hellebores orChristmas rose,’ says Julian. ‘With flat, white flowers and lush greenery, they start to open from midwinter, but in a mild December you’ll often see the first blooms by late in the month, especially on early varieties.’

‘There are some fabulous plants you can pot now to ensure a lovely display at Christmas time,’ says Craig Wilson, co-founder and gardening expert at Gardeners Dream. ‘The Christmas rose, in particular the helleborous niger, will give your garden a beautiful bloom come Christmas, with the whites of the rose offering a classic festive feel.

‘Christmas roses can be planted anytime between now and November. When planting roses, make sure to soak the roots of the plant in water first and place it in a pot that is around 12 to 24 inches deep to accommodate its long roots. Ensure that the hole in your pot is twice as wide and deep as the root ball of the rose before placing it gently in and patting down with good drainage soil.’

‘Place in a sheltered, shady spot in your garden and water around once a week to begin with, relying on natural rainfall once established, unless the winter brings a significantly dry period,’ adds Craig.

Where to buy Christmas rose plants:

• Gardeners Dream: Add festive colour with this pretty helleborous niger, from £12.99.
• Gardening Express: Or try this dramatic deep red Helleborus x hybridus 'Double Ellen Red', £15.99.

Shop these frost-proof containers

2. Winter heather

‘Winter-flowering heathers such as Erica carnea and E. × darleyensis flower from December into May, giving low, neat colour when most other plants are dormant,’ says Julian. 'Compact in size, heathers are ideal for containers and small gardens; just ensure you use well-drained, neutral to acid soil and they should thrive.’

'Cold-loving, low-growing plants that cover pots in shades of vivid magenta, ruby red and fresh white, when everything else looks bleak, winter-flowering heathers are super easy to grow and a great choice for beginners,’ says Jack Tian, plant expert from ThornOasis at Palmstreet app.

'Pack winter heathers tightly around the edge of a container to frame taller plants,’ advises Jack, ‘and position containers in full sun or light, open shade. Unlike summer plants, these can tolerate multi-purpose compost, though mixing in a bit of acidic soil will make them happier.'

Where to buy winter heather plants:

• B&Q: Add colour with a pack of mixed winter heathers, £14.99.
• Hedges Direct: Or try this pretty all-white Calluna GardenGirls White, £5.99.

3. Violas

‘Violas are another great choice for winter flowers, with a vibrancy that will add a lovely pop of colour for those darker days, says Craig.

‘For violas, your pot size should be about eight to twelve inches deep, and you will need to leave around six inches between each viola plant,' advises Craig. 'Place in a lighter position in your garden and water about once a week, reducing if rainfall increases. Also, it’s important to deadhead your violas regularly to ensure fresh blooms keep coming throughout the winter months.'

‘And with all winter containers, make sure to raise your pots off the floor using pot feet to enhance drainage and allow excess winter rain to drain away properly.’

Where to buy viola plants:

• Thompson & Morgan: These elegant blue and white blooms will brighten up pots - Viola 'Delft Blue', from £14.99.
• Amazon: Try this mixed pack of 9 x pansy violas, £24.99.

4. Sarcococca

‘Sarcococca, also known as Christmas box, is a small, fragrant shrub that you can pot in September for festive colour,’ says Julian. ‘It’s grown mainly for its winter scent, and the tiny white flowers open from late December into January, but the buds are already formed now, so the plant looks good in a pot all winter.’

Super-easy to grow, sarcococca is often referred to as ‘unkillable’ as it tolerates most soil types, requires little maintenance and minimal watering, making it the perfect choice for beginners. Suitable for large pots and containers, opt for a compact option like xxxx if you have a smaller garden or patio.

Where to buy sarcococca plants:

• Gardeners Dream: Lush foliage and highly scented, try this Sarcococca hookeriana, £22.99.
• Crocus: Or try this sweetly-scented pure white sarcococca confusa sweet box, from £7.99.

5. Viburnum tinus

‘Viburnum tinus is a low-maintenance evergreen shrub with pretty pinky white flower clusters that will bring colour to both winter borders and seasonal containers,’ suggests Julian. ‘Go for a large pot and plant viburnum in September, keeping it in sun or part shade. You’ll often see the first white flower clusters opening by mid‑ to late December in a mild year.’

‘Always choose frost-proof pots for outdoor displays over winter,’ says Jack. ‘Avoid standard terracotta, which absorbs water, expands in a freeze and cracks. Instead choose ceramic, resin, or wood if you can.'

‘Sit your exterior pots on bricks or pot feet to elevate them. This allows heavy winter rain to drain away easily, stopping the compost from turning into ice that contributes to root rot.’

‘And don’t feed container plants between November through January,’ adds Jack. ‘They are not producing new growth and cannot absorb nutrients as easily.’

Where to buy viburnum tinus plants:

• Primrose: Long-lasting pink flowers, accentuated by darker-toned foliage, try this Viburnum Tinus Eve Price, from £17.49.
• Thompson & Morgan: Or go for the winter-flowering all-white Viburnum tinus 'French White', £34.99.

6. Mahonia

‘When it comes to winter-flowering fragrant shrubs, Mahonia is another top pick for outdoor pots, with its clusters of yellow flowers, holly-like leaves and sweet scent,’ suggests Julian.

‘Varieties like Mahonia × media ‘Charity’ are certainly worth a try. Plant a small specimen in a large pot in September in a sheltered, sunny spot and well-drained soil. It often starts its yellow, scented flower spikes from late November into December.’

Mahonia copes well with root competition, so can be underplanted with similarly shade-loving companions such as heuchera, skimmia or ferns, or try planting spring bulbs in the same container to add a flash of colour early in the new year.

Where to buy mahonia plants:

• Dobies: Add a burst of cheery colour with this Mahonia x media 'Winter Sun', from £12.99.
• Gardening Expressz: Or go for the orangey tones of this Mahonia nitens cabaret, £24.99.

7. Christmas cactus

'When it comes to indoor plants that will bloom in time for the festive period, then Christmas cactus is the classic favourite, producing a luscious array of bright flowers in December,’ says Jack.

‘Christmas Cactus are a type of tropical plant, so they dislike too much water in their soil,’ advises Jack. ‘Keep them happy by using a free-draining, compost mixture and keep them in a brightly lit room but away from scorching midday sun. To encourage winter growth, give this plant some rest in the fall by cutting back on watering and keeping it in cooler temperatures.'

Where to buy Christmas cactus plants:

• Crocus: Enjoy a long-last display of colour indoors with this Schlumbergera orange flowered Christmas cactus, from £10.39.
• B&Q: Or go for the white blooms of this white Christmas Cactus Schlumbergera indoor plant, £19.99.

8. Poinsettia

'Poinsettia is the iconic choice for bright Christmas foliage,’ says Jack. ‘Its magnificent, brightly coloured leaves provide instant, festive cheer indoors all season long, making it one of the best Christmas houseplants.’

'Poinsettias are incredibly sensitive to cold draughts and temperature drops,’ adds Jack. ‘Keep poinsettias happy by placing them in a warm, stable room with plenty of bright, indirect light and water only when the top of the soil feels dry.’

‘And my top tip: never buy a poinsettia sitting near the automatic entrance doors in the store. The cold draughts will cause the leaves to drop a few days after you get it home.’

Where to buy poinsettia plants:

• Gardeners Dream: Fill rooms with festive colour with this cheery red Poinsettia plant, £24.99.
• Plants4Presents: Or go for an alternative to classic red with this White Poinsettia, £33.

So there you have it... Get started planting now to ensure a colourful display of blooms come Christmas.

Wondering what to do with a snake plant in September? After an idyllic summer – at least for tropical houseplants – September brings cooler temperatures and lower light levels. This means you need to adapt your approach to caring for a snake plant in September.

Snake plants are renowned for their ease, thriving with a less-is-more approach. Caring for a snake plant in September is no different; if anything, you need to be even more hands-off during autumn and winter.

By maintaining a consistent temperature and adjusting your watering schedule, your snake plant will make it through the coldest months and be ready to put on new growth in the spring.

1. Keeping your home above 16°c

Snake plants thrive in warmer environments, so the September temperature drop can cause issues when caring for houseplants over winter.

'Snake plants, St George’s sword, or Mother-in-Law’s tongue are native to West Africa, so they prefer warmer conditions, but they are very adaptable. That being said, we recommend keeping the home above 16°c to keep it happiest,' says David Nicholson, sales manager for sustainable plant pot company, elho.

Central heating will be key to keeping your home warm, but be cautious of keeping your snake plant too close to the radiator.

'Keep your Snake Plant away from radiators and fireplaces. Although snake plants are known for their adaptable nature, extreme heat won’t do them any favours and can cause leaf damage,' says Morag Hill, co-founder of The Little Botanical.

2. Reduce watering

Snake plants are lauded as unkillable houseplants and ideal for beginners – if you want to add one to your collection, you can buy a snake plant in an Elho pot from Dunelm. However, the main challenge facing snake plant owners, particularly in September, is overwatering.

Snake plants go dormant in winter, with their growth rate slowing. This means they don't need as much water as in spring and summer. Reducing your watering schedule in September reduces the risk of overwatering your snake plant, which can quickly lead to rot. Overwatering is not only one of the most common winter houseplant problems, but also one of the most avoidable.

'The best thing you can do is check the soil before reaching for the watering can. If the top couple of inches are still damp, leave it a little longer, until it's completely dry,' says Jo Lambell, founder of Beards & Daisies. 'Snake plants are much happier being a little too dry than too wet, and overwatering is one of the most common reasons they start to look unhappy.'

While you can save an overwatered plant, avoiding overwatering in the first place is always best. A moisture meter, like this digital reader from Amazon, helps you reliably assess whether your plant needs watering – reducing the risk of overwatering your snake plant. Alternatively, watering indicators – like this one from Amazon – can be left in the soil, so you can see at a glance when your plant needs water.

3. Move to a brighter spot

Light levels start to drop in September, which makes photosynthesis harder – even for low-light houseplants.

'Snake plants tolerate lower light conditions, which makes them a good option for a shadier corner of the room. I say tolerate as they actually prefer brighter, indirect light and will grow more happily with it. It’s a common misconception that Snake Plants need low light,' Sonia Kainth, brand and marketing executive at House of Kojo.

If your snake plant is in a darker spot, it may be a good idea to place a snake plant somewhere a little brighter, especially as the days get shorter and darker. 'Just keep an eye on the light as the days get shorter. If it’s looking a little gloomy where it is, moving it somewhere brighter can make all the difference,' says Jo Lambell, founder of Beards & Daisies.

4. Wipe leaves

Cleaning the leaves is also a key way to increase the light that's absorbed by your snake plant. 'Keep the leaves dust-free to encourage photosynthesis by giving them a gentle wipe with a dry cloth every couple of weeks,' advises David Nicholson, sales manager for sustainable plant pot company, elho.

Make the process easier by keeping these leaf-wiping tongs from Amazon or these leaf-wiping gloves, also from Amazon, nearby.

5. Stop feeding

If you were fertilising your snake plant – perhaps with a feed like Westland's Houseplant feed available on Amazon – now is the time to stop.

'September is a good time to stop fertilising your snake plant. As the days get shorter and light levels drop, your snake plant won’t be growing as quickly as it does through the summer, so there’s no need to keep feeding it,' says Jo Lambell, founder of Beards & Daisies.

Morag Hill from The Little Botanical recommends 'giving it one last houseplant feed before the end of the month.'

Always one to follow expert advice, I'll be sure to give my snake plant a little bit of Plantsmith's Fortifying Houseplant Tonic, available on Amazon, before the month is up.

6. Do not repot unless strictly necessary

Some houseplants like to be pot-bound; however, snake plants like to be snug but not cramped. While you can repot houseplants in winter, it is almost always best to leave repotting until spring.

'I wouldn’t rush to repot your snake plant in September. They actually quite like being a little snug in their pot, and spring is a much better time to repot if it has outgrown its home. For now, let it settle into autumn without too much change,' says Jo Lambell, founder of Beards & Daisies.

During autumn and winter, snake plant growth slows, reducing the urgency regarding repotting. Only repot your snake plant in September if you suspect root rot, have a pest infestation or if the roots have displaced most of the soil and it doesn't hold water for more than a day or two.

Make sure you know how to replant a houseplant, so you're ready for spring, and avoid any potting-up mistakes.

Snake plants are famous for being unkillable, but if you want yours to thrive and grow, pay attention to these September care tips.

It's that exciting time of the year when we pour over bulb catalogues, deciding which varieties to buy for a beautiful display in our gardens come spring.

The big question, of course, is: how do we store these fabulous purchases when they start to arrive in the post? There tends to be a delay between receiving them and being able to plant bulbs. Many sell out fast, so you have to buy early to not be disappointed, or it might be you've just not got round to planting them up due to a busy schedule, or you're waiting for the right weather conditions.

I've rounded up some top tips on how you can store them safely until it's time to get them in the ground. With expert help, these are the various ways you can keep them dry and safe until you're ready to spend time planting them up.

1. Inspect and clean

It might be that you're also digging up existing bulbs to store as well as buying new bulb varieties to try out. If this is the case, then prepping them for storage is important too.

Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture explains, 'If you have harvested or dug up bulbs, discard any that feel soft, are damaged or diseased. Large clumps of dirt should be brushed off bulbs, but do not wash them unless they can dry out completely afterwards – you'll know when they're ready as the outer skins will feel firm and dry.'

2. Give them air

Remember that your bulbs are living plants, something that Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Harvst Automatic Watering explains well, 'In their bulb form they are simply in a state of dormancy. This means they are constantly taking in oxygen and releasing carbon dioxide together with some moisture.'

'Take them out of any plastic packaging or sealed bags and keep them somewhere dark and dry,' advises Chris Bonnett, founder of GardeningExpress.

It's so important to give them access to air – never in an airtight container. 'Consider a mesh bag, open brown paper bags, cardboard boxes or wooden crates. If your bulbs aren’t kept somewhere with good air circulation then moisture will build up and the bulbs will rot over time,' Lucie adds.

3. Insulate them

If you are going to wait awhile until you plant your new bulbs then it's not just about them having a good air supply. They need to be kept in the right state too, especially if you have a large number of them.

Richard explains, 'If you are stacking or packing boxes of bulbs, separate layers with vermiculite, sawdust or shredded newspaper to maintain airflow and cushion the bulbs. Layers should be kept shallow, with a maximum of one or two bulbs.'

4. Store in the right location

'A dry shed, garage or cool cupboard should be suitable, provided it is protected from frost, damp and mice. Keep bulbs away from ripening fruit, too,' advises Richard.

Chris agrees, 'Ideally you want them in an environment that’s at a cool room temperature, rather than somewhere warm like a greenhouse.'

5. Don't forget about them!

"Out of sight, out of mind" – except don't forget your bulbs are quietly waiting for the right outside conditions for you to burst into action and plant them. Write a note to yourself to keep checking them.

'Stored bulbs should be inspected every few weeks, and any bulbs that show signs of mould, rot, or feel as though they are turning soft should be discarded,' advises Richard.

'Try not to store them for longer than necessary; spring flowering bulbs are usually ready to go into the ground as soon as the conditions are suitable,' says Chris. 'Planting them nice and early also means you’ll be giving them time to develop a strong root system before winter.'

Bulb storage kit

Give your bulbs some TLC when they arrive until you can plant them and they'll reward you with beautiful blooms come spring.

Living in an older house, I know all too well that excess moisture doesn't always show up somewhere handy. In autumn and winter, I'm always having to keep an eye on condensation around my windows, as well as smaller, tucked-away spaces with limited airflow, like wardrobes, cupboards, drawers and behind furniture.

That's why the Lakeland 2L dehumidifier with removable dehumidifier wand made me do a double take. I regularly test the best dehumidifiers for Ideal Home, but this is the first model I've come across with a detachable wand specifically designed to tackle moisture in smaller spaces.

And with autumn here and the damp season approaching, I'm putting it to work around some of the trickier areas of my home. Here's why it's such a must-buy.

The removable wand is what makes the difference

The feature I was most intrigued by is the detachable dehumidifier wand that sits on top of the main unit. This is the first time I've actually come across a design that lets me remove part of the appliance to tackle moisture in spaces where the main machine simply wouldn't fit.

Inside the wand are silica gel beads that absorb moisture from the surrounding air, so it doesn't need to be plugged in while doing its job. There's even a button-fastened strap so you can hang it inside a wardrobe, or I can place it in a drawer or another small damp-prone space.

I've already been using it at my windows. Condensation is something I have to keep on top of in my Victorian home, particularly around my single-glazed windows when temperatures drop. While the wand isn't going to replace a full-sized dehumidifier for controlling humidity in an entire room, its small size means I can position it close to those particularly condensation-prone spots.

There's also a little indicator window that makes it easy to see when it needs regenerating. The silica beads are orange when they're dry and ready to use, gradually turning green as they absorb moisture and become saturated.

Once they're green, you need to return the wand to the top of the main dehumidifier, where the silica gel is dried out.

I really like that it's reusable too, as moisture absorber bags are usually my go-to for enclosed spaces (I love these dehumidifier bags, £14 at Amazon), whereas this one can be regenerated and moved from one problem spot to another.

One thing to be aware of is that the wand will be hot when it's first removed from the dehumidifier after drying. Lakeland advises keeping it at least 10cm away from plastic and other flammable items. If you're placing rather than hanging it, the instructions also recommend using a heat-resistant surface or tray, as some moisture or condensation may appear where it comes into contact with the surface.

The main unit then tackles the rest of the room

The clever wand might have been what caught my eye, but you also get a compact dehumidifier to use around the home. It's got double-duty appeal.

This Lakeland model has a two-litre water tank and can extract up to 500ml of moisture from the air per day, which makes it a great dehumidifier for under £100. Its slimline proportions make it well suited to smaller rooms, where you might not want a bulkier model taking up valuable floor space.

It also has adjustable humidity and fan settings, a timer and a full tank alert, giving you more control than I'd expect from some of the very small dehumidifiers I've tried in the past.

Although I would be mindful of the extraction rate. At up to 500ml per day, I wouldn't choose this over a large compressor or desiccant model if I were dealing with a significant damp problem or wanted a powerful dehumidifier for regularly drying big loads of laundry.

I think its strength is in targeted moisture control; I can use the main unit to help manage humidity in a smaller room and potentially reduce the conditions that lead to condensation on windows. And then the removable wand gives me another way to target those awkward little moisture-prone spots.

More condensation must-haves

And if this dehumidifier isn't quite fitting with what you need, there are plenty of other condensation-busting products we rate that are well worth a look.

As we head further into autumn, I'll be watching out for the little awkward, damp-prone spots, including my window condensation, as it always gets worse the further we get into autumn/winter.

I'm really interested to see how useful this little wand will continue to be when the temperature drops even further!

The neighbour's fence is falling into my garden – what can I do? This is actually quite a common issue. It's a problem that most homeowners will have to deal with at some point, especially if you live in a row of terraced houses and share fences with your neighbours on both sides.

These situations are never easy, unless you already have a fabulous relationship with your neighbour...But if you don't, then I've sought out advice from legal and insurance experts to help with the fence rules you need to know.

'A damaged or falling fence can create big problems, from safety and security risks to neighbourly disputes and costly repairs,' says Kara Gammell, home insurance expert at MoneySuperMarket.

I've outlined some of the questions that come up in this situation and the experts' advice on how to tackle this issue.

1. How to approach a fallen fence with your neighbour

Whether it's a fence issue or another garden feature that causes neighbour disputes, diplomacy from the off is key.

'Take photographs of the falling fence, and make notes of dates so you have a record of the damage,' suggests Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director at LBS Horticulture.

'Before taking matters into your own hands, it’s important to establish who is responsible for the fence and any repairs. This can help avoid unnecessary legal issues and future tensions between you and your neighbours,' Kara advises.

2. How to check ownership/boundary proof

'It's worth noting that the fence doesn’t always belong to the property on the side it appears to be standing on,' shares Kara. 'Fence ownership isn't automatically determined by which garden the fence is facing or who paid for it originally.'

'On property title deeds, 'T' marks will show who owns the boundary,' says Richard. 'However, in the UK, property owners have a legal responsibility to fix or maintain a fence unless it is stated in the deeds. You should avoid trying to push or fix the fence without the permission of your neighbour if it is considered their legal property.'

You can also access title deeds through the Land Registry.

3. How to resolve this issue if it gets tricky

If you've approached kindly, explained the situation and have proof that the fence is on their side then try to keep the conversations practical rather than assigning blame.

'Explain what damage you've noticed with the photographic evidence, and discuss possible repair options, this is more likely to resolve the issue than an argument,' suggests Kara.

'If your neighbour disputes ownership, double check your property's legal documents and fully establish what they actually say before making assumptions,' Kara adds. 'It’s important to note that if the boundary itself is disputed, fences can be moved over time so don't rely solely on the position of the existing fence, as it may not accurately reflect the legal boundary.'

If the above gets you nowhere, then you can try a mediation service. The Royal Institute of Chartered Surveys (RICS) run a boundary disputes mediation service with the Property Litigation Association, you can find the information here.

UK Mediation offers confidential meetings and joint sessions for both parties and Effective Dispute Solutions provide fast-track boundary and neighbour mediation.

'If the fence is leaning or collapsing in a way that poses a safety risk, you may need to contact your local council's Building Control team to report it as a dangerous structure,' advises Richard. 'You will need to provide photos, the location and an explanation, but the council will only act if it risks public safety.'

4. Do they legally have to replace/repair it?

'If the fence belongs to your neighbour and there is no legal agreement requiring them to maintain it, unfortunately they don’t have an obligation to replace it because it is old or unattractive. However, if the condition of the fence is causing damage to your property, the situation becomes more complicated and seeking professional advice may be appropriate,' advises Kara.

In terms of repair or removal if the fence is officially theirs, there are things to consider, Kara explains: 'The most important thing is not to assume that you can repair, remove or replace a fence simply because it is falling into your garden. If the fence belongs to your neighbour, carrying out substantial work without their agreement could create a further dispute.

If you do agree to pay for or arrange the work yourself, it's worth getting the agreement in writing beforehand, including who will pay, what work will be carried out and who will own the new fence. This can help prevent misunderstandings later on.

If a fallen fence causes damage to insured parts of your property, such as outbuildings, it may be worth checking your home insurance policy to understand what cover is available. Policy terms vary, so it's important to review your documents carefully before making a claim.'

Fence maintenance kit

If your neighbour's fence is falling into your garden then follow our steps to hopefully get it resolved, diplomacy and a cool head is the most important start – good luck!

As our gardens start to lose their summer shine, now’s the perfect time to start thinking ahead and getting things prepped for spring. Top of the autumn ‘to-do’ list is bulb-planting and if you want a garden packed with both colour and fragrance, then choosing scented spring bulbs is the way to go.

Planting scented bulbs is a fabulous way of bringing early spring colour and fragrance to your outdoor space, whether planted up in containers, window boxes and hanging baskets near the front door or in flower beds and borders in the back garden, ensuring you’ll be greeted by a waft of spring-fresh fragrance whenever you head outside. And September is the perfect time to plant spring bulbs.

‘There’s no better welcome home in spring than a burst of fragrance at your front door,’ says Shelley Davis, plant expert at Flying Flowers. ‘And by planting fragrant bulbs in doorstep containers or close to your windows means you can enjoy their scent every time you come and go.’

1. Hyacinth

‘If you want your spring garden to look and smell good, hyacinths are an all-round great choice,’ says Shelley. ‘Their tightly packed flowers come in a variety of gorgeous shades including pink, purple, white, and blue, but it’s their strong, sweet fragrance that really makes them stand out.’

‘When planting hyacinth bulbs, they'll generally bloom in early to mid-spring, around March and April, making them particularly effective when planted in containers near doors, windows, or seating areas, where their fragrance can be appreciated up close.’

‘For a more generous hit of scent, the trick for how to plant hyacinth bulbs is to put several bulbs together rather than relying on a single plant,’ adds Shelley. ‘Just make sure containers have good drainage, as hyacinth bulbs won’t thank you for sitting in waterlogged compost over winter.’

‘Hyacinths are one of my favourite scented spring bulbs,’ says Craig Wilson, gardening expert and co-founder of Gardeners Dream. ‘Not only do they come in a range of bold colours to create a bright, vibrant garden, but they also offer a sweet aroma to create an inviting garden.’

‘If you plant your hyacinth bulbs around September to October, you can expect to see them flower between March and April. Just opt for a sunny or partially shaded spot, planting bulbs around four to six inches deep into the soil and ensuring the soil offers good drainage to avoid waterlogging.’

Where to buy hyacinth bulbs:

• Crocus: Enjoy a swathe of fragrant blue flowers with these Hyacinthus orientalis 'Delft Blue', from £7.99.
• Gardeners Dream: Or go for a variety of colours with this Hyacinth Garden Mix, from £12.99.

Shop these planters for front gardens

2. Narcissus ‘geranium’

‘For a bulb that packs plenty of fragrance into a relatively small space, narcissus 'geranium' is a showstopper,’ says Shelley. ‘It’s a Tazetta daffodil, a group known for its scented flowers, with several blooms carried on each stem. Its white petals and warm orange centres also make it an easy way to add a little more interest to a spring display.

'And it’s a great choice that works particularly well in a pot or border close to the house in a front garden.’

‘Narcissus acatea and narcissus geraniums are a good choice,’ says Chris Bonnet, founder of Gardening Express. ‘Narcissus acatea releases a rich, sweet fragrance while narcissus geranium has a strong, zesty scent.’

‘When it comes to planting in the ground, find a spot in the front garden with good drainage, dig a hole around three times the height of the bulb, and place the pointy end up,’ adds Chris. ‘Leave around two bulb widths between each, cover with soil, and nature will do the rest.’

Where to buy narcissus geranium bulbs:

• Primrose: Richly-scented and in delicate clusters, try these Narcissus Geranium, Tazetta Daffodil, £21.98.
• Sarah Raven: These pretty multi-headed blooms are loved by pollinators - Narcissus 'Geranium' Daffodil, from £7.77.

3. Tulips

‘While mostly known for their vivid colours and clean shapes, several tulip varieties carry a surprisingly rich scent, ranging from light citrus notes to deep honey,’ says Shelley. ‘Sweet-smelling varieties like ‘ballerina’ and ‘angelique’ are perfect for adding both visual drama and a delicate perfume to your entryway.’

‘Blooming in mid-to-late spring, they thrive in sunny, sheltered spots. Plant tulip bulbs in deep containers or near pathways, ensuring the soil drains well so the bulbs remain healthy throughout winter,’ adds Shelley.

‘Tulip ballerina, with its sweet, citrus scent, is another great choice for front garden containers,’ agrees Chris. ‘If you’re opting for containers, make sure the pots have large drainage holes and raise them on pot feet or bricks to avoid them becoming waterlogged and use a good quality compost.’

‘Bulbs can be planted much closer together in containers than in the ground, just make sure they don’t touch each other or the side of the pot. And do water immediately after planting and keep the soil slightly damp throughout winter,’ adds Chris.

Where to buy tulip bulbs:

• Gardening Express: Try the orange, frilly shaped blooms of these Tulip Ballerina bulbs, £3.99.
• Thompson & Morgan: Or go for the super-pretty pinky-white Tulip 'Angelique', from £9.99.

4. Scented iris

‘Early-blooming dwarf irises bring a touch of elegance to spring, often flowering as early as February,’ suggests Shelley. ‘Despite their petite size, varieties like ‘Harmony’ (Iris 'Harmony', from £9.99 at Suttons) and ‘Katherine Hodgkin’ (Iris 'Katharine Hodgkin', from £6.99 at J.Parker's) produce a subtle, violet-like scent that signals the start of the new season.’

‘Because of their short stature, irises are best planted in raised containers, window boxes, or near doorstep edges where you can appreciate their intricate patterns and gentle fragrance up close.’

Where to buy scented iris bulbs:

• Suttons: A brilliant choice for front garden containers: Iris 'Harmony', from £9.99.
• J. Parker's: Or go for these pretty pale lilac-coloured Iris 'Katharine Hodgkin', from £6.99.

5. Golden crocus

‘With a mild, sweet, honey-like fragrance, golden crocuses are among the very first blooms to announce the arrival of spring. Their vibrant yellow-gold petals open wide on sunny days, releasing a warm scent that attracts early pollinators to your doorstep,’ suggests Shelley.

‘Appearing in late winter to early spring, golden crocuses work brilliantly when drift-planted in small pots or along the front edge of doorstep containers. Plant crocus bulbs and place them in full sun so the flowers open fully to release their perfume.’

Where to buy golden crocus bulbs:

• Crocus: Enjoy the golden tones of these Crocus chrysanthus var. fuscotinctus, from £7.99.
• Thompson & Morgan: Or try these sunny yellow Crocus 'Yellow Mammoth', from £9.99.

6. Freesias

‘For fragrance that really makes itself known, freesias are hard to beat,’ says Shelley. ‘Their colourful, trumpet-shaped flowers have a sweet, distinctive scent, making them a lovely choice for a pot near the front door.’

‘When planting freesias, be aware that they are less hardy than many traditional spring bulbs, so they’re best treated as a container plant in the UK, using free-draining compost and positioning the pot somewhere bright and sheltered,’ adds Shelley. ‘This makes it easier to move them somewhere protected, like to a greenhouse, when temperatures drop, as they are vulnerable to cold.’

Where to buy freesia bulbs:

• Dobies: Bring a swathe of colour to your garden with this Freesia Mixed pack, from £12.99.
• Amazon: Or go for these super-pretty blue and white blooms - Oliwier's Bulbs 20x Freesia Blue & White Mix, £7.49.

How to get the most from your spring bulbs

‘When planting bulbs in containers, choose a good-quality, free-draining compost and make sure the pot has drainage holes underneath,’ advises Shelley. ‘This is particularly important over winter, as bulbs sitting in waterlogged compost can be prone to rotting.’

‘For the strongest fragrance in the garden, position scented bulbs somewhere sheltered where the scent can linger, rather than in a completely exposed spot. Planting them close to the front door, along a pathway or beneath a window means you’re more likely to notice the fragrance as you pass,’ adds Shelley.

Shop for bulb-planting tools

Will you be planting scented spring bulbs? Let us know your favourite fragrance.

Everyone knows that your neighbours are the luck of the draw, but on the whole I’ve always managed to maintain a courteous and friendly relationship with mine.

So, you can imagine my surprise a few weeks ago when I caught my neighbour trying to cut down a tree at the bottom of my garden, without asking me first.

The legal rules surrounding whether or not you can cut your neighbours tree can feel complicated, but after speaking to the experts about my situation, I feel reassured that I have handled the dispute correctly.

Here’s everything the experts told me, including the immediate steps to take and where you stand legally if you ever find yourself experiencing something similar.

Why my neighbour tried to cut my tree

The actions taken by my neighbour were the culmination of months of ongoing discussions regarding my tree and my neighbours property. I have an oak tree at the bottom of my garden, and directly behind this tree is a private garage owned by my neighbour.

My neighbour believes that our tree is causing damage to his garage. While it’s true that large trees can cause damage to fences and buildings, the tree in my garden is surrounded by badger sets and fox burrows – and I suspect these animals are contributing to the damage.

The element of protected wildlife around the tree adds another layer to this incident, so we responded to claims of damage by requesting a full ecological survey to figure out what is going on. In the meantime, my neighbour advised his insurance company that he owns the tree (despite the fact it is located within our boundary line).

This prompted the insurance company to employ arborists to take action on the tree, without my knowledge or consent. Instead of waiting for the results of the ecological survey, or discussing the matters with my household, the action began to take place. And I returned home one day to find the arborists up my tree, beginning to chop it down.

In a complete shock, I spoke with the arborists and immediately halted all work – a call that legal and home insurance experts have since confirmed that I was right to make.

How I’m handling the situation

As soon as I saw the arborists in my tree without my consent, I spoke to them straight away. ‘Where any misbehaviour or wrongful conduct happens without your consent, the first step should always be to speak to the individual,’ advises John Roberts, Partner and Director of Austin Lafferty Solicitors.

‘Of course, this is only if you feel safe to do so - never put yourself in a dangerous position by confronting someone,’ adds John. ‘Remain civil and polite with the neighbour and explain why their actions are affecting you, including the legal reasons as to why this is a concern.’

Once work was halted and the arborists left, I decided to take pictures of the damage done to the trees. At this point, I was still reacting out of shock, but it turns out this is something experts always suggest doing.

‘If your neighbour has already started cutting the tree, take photographs of the tree and any damage as soon as possible, ideally showing the wider context and where the tree sits in relation to your borders,’ says Kara Gammell, Home Insurance Expert at MoneySuperMarket.

‘Keep a record of any messages or conversations you have had about the work too,’ Kara says. This will make it much easier to state your case and provide evidence should you need to take further action later down the line.

When the dust had settled and the initial shock had worn off, I decided that my next step should be to report the arborists to the police for criminal damage seeing as the work was unauthorised and carried out without consent of the tree’s owner.

‘If a neighbour tries to cut down a tree that belongs to you, the law will generally be on your side,’ explains James Smith, solicitor in the property disputes team at Birketts LLP. ‘Unauthorised works can amount to a criminal offence and may result in significant penalties,’ he adds.

It is also worth checking whether or not your tree is protected by a Tree Protection Order (or TPO) – if it is, the law can be stronger. ‘Additional restrictions apply where a tree is protected by a TPO or is located within a conservation area. Protected trees generally cannot be cut down, uprooted, topped, lopped or wilfully damaged without the necessary consent from the local planning authority,’ advises James.

The tree in my garden is not currently covered by a TPO, but since this incident I have lodged an application to put one in place. If approved, this will give me further peace of mind against future incidents.

I also decided to write to my neighbour’s insurance company to state that no further action is to take place, and no arborists are to enter the boundary of my property without my consent. And I've requested an update on the ecological survey, the results of which I am still waiting for.

What the law says

Every situation is different, and all neighbourly disputes can be complicated in their own way. However, there are some legal pointers that can be useful to know when dealing with these matters.

Firstly, if you’re unsure whether or not you own the tree in your garden, it’s important to know that ‘in most cases, if the trunk of the tree stands entirely on your land, the tree belongs to you,’ says James. ‘A neighbour generally has no right to cut down a tree that belongs to someone else without permission. Similarly, a neighbour does not usually have the right to enter your land to carry out works to your tree. Entering another person's property without consent may amount to trespass.’

However, if your tree overhangs into your neighbour's garden, the rules around what your neighbour can and can’t do shift slightly. ‘Your neighbour has the legal right to cut back overhanging tree branches or encroaching roots to your exact boundary line,’ says John. ‘But the neighbour must perform all cutting from their own side and should not cross a boundary line without explicit permission.’

‘The key rule to remember is that a neighbour can generally trim branches or roots from your tree where they have crossed onto their property, but they should not cut beyond their own boundary,’ agrees Kara. ‘If you’re unsure where the boundary of your property lies, checking your property's title documents and plans should be your first port of call, as the position of a boundary isn't always as obvious as it appears from a fence or hedge,’ she adds.

However, despite this legal entitlement, it is still considered common courtesy to discuss the matter with your neighbour before carrying out any work. Plus, in many cases, the cuttings or fruit that might come into your possession after pruning your neighbours tree should be offered back to the owner of the tree.

It’s also always important to remember that your tree is ultimately your responsibility. ‘As the tree owner, you have a duty to take reasonable care of your tree, particularly if there is a foreseeable risk of falling branches or roots causing damage to neighbouring property,’ explains Kara. ‘If a tree is diseased, unstable or presenting a clear risk, ignoring the problem could potentially leave you liable for any damage caused to your neighbour’s property.’

And finally, the key with any matter is to address it in a calm and civil manner. ‘Disputes over trees can quickly become a source of tension between neighbours, so taking reasonable steps to address concerns can help prevent issues from escalating further,’ says Kara.

Keep your tree in good condition

Keep these tools handy to ensure proper tree maintenance.

With the leaves slowly starting to fall and a slight chill in the air, autumn isn't far away. After a summer full of colour, we can miss those wonderful flowers in shades and tones that lift our gardens up visually.

For those who love more year-round colour, we've asked our gardening experts how we can keep our gardens looking fabulous with beautiful flowers that will continue to bloom as we approach December (and dare I say it, Christmas).

'For colour that lasts into December, you’re really looking at a mix of hardy winter bedding, late perennials and a few shrubs that genuinely keep going,' says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

1. Winter pansies (and violas)

Pansies are ideal for that stunning display of colour that will transform your garden after the summer varieties fade.

Julian agrees, 'Pansies and violas are the workhorses here; they’ll flower through most winters, especially in pots or sheltered borders, and just need deadheading to keep them tidy.'

September is a great month to get them established. 'Adding these to your garden now will allow them to quickly establish a strong root system whilst the soil is still warm; this will help them to thrive all the way through autumn, winter and into the following spring,' advises Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation. 'Whilst they appear to flower almost continuously, they will actually pause when there is extremely frosty or snowy weather and start to produce new blooms as soon as warmer temperatures return.'

There are plenty of pansies and violas around to buy at the moment; we particularly love the lilacs of the Matrix mix Ocean Breeze trays from J. Parkers, prices start from £11.99 for 40. For a more classic multicoloured look, Thompson & Morgan's Matrix mix, from £7.79 for six plug plants, will give you yellows, whites, reds, and oranges.

2. Hellebores

There's something rather wonderful about hellebores – their unusual cup-shaped flowers in whites, pinks and reds are a great addition over these duller months.

'Hellebores can be planted from October right until March, but if you’re aiming for them to bloom into December, try to plant in early autumn to give the plants a chance to establish before flowering,' suggests Chris Bennett, founder of GardeningExpress.

'They tolerate cold well and provide the garden with colour and structure. Plant them in rich, well-drained soil and in partial shade and keep them watered during their first growing season. In late winter, remove any old foliage to show off the emerging flowers.'

If you're a purist, then the white variety will be perfect: hellebore Christmas Carol, from £10, Thompson & Morgan, or pick the pretty pink helleborus Viv 'Valeria' that's so loved, £15.99, GardeningExpress.

3. Cyclamen

Cyclamen are the gift that keeps on giving; they last for years, can live indoors, and add beautiful flowering displays. The best time to plant them is during September to October.

'They thrive in cool, sheltered conditions, so they can be particularly effective if planted beneath trees or in sheltered containers', advises Chris. 'They’re great for adding colour into the garden in winter as delicate blooms stand out well against cool weather foliage. Be mindful not to overwater, especially once the plant is established, as this can cause the tubers to rot.'

Colours include rose pink, bright pink, magenta and whites with a hint of colour. We love the hederifolium variety with its pretty marbled leaves and pale pink flowers, £12.99 for a 9cm pot, Crocus. If you can't decide on a colour, opt for a choice of three – Amazon have a white, pink and magenta pack of three 9cm pots for £15.95.

4. Camellia

Camellias are evergreen shrubs that produce rose-like blooms in red, pink, white, and butter yellow.

'If you have space for a shrub, Camellia × vernalis ‘Yuletide’ is superb over the festive period, coated in red and gold flowers from November into January,' suggests Julian.

'They will set their flower buds in late summer, so will need to be watered consistently at this time so the buds do not dry up and drop off,' says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director at LBS Horticulture. 'The plant needs to be kept in partial shade and sheltered from harsh, direct morning sun, as this can scorch the buds. If there are any harsh frosts, the plant will need to be covered with horticultural fleece overnight.'

Another variety that blooms up to December is 1001 Summer Nights, which has coral-coloured flowers, from £29.99 at Dobies.

5. Mahonia japonica

'No matter what the weather, this low-maintenance shrub will provide colour in your garden when other flowers have faded and do so with minimal intervention,' says Lucie.

It's an upright shrub with distinctive spiky leaves and clusters of bright yellow blooms; it can grow up to a height of two metres when it reaches maturity.

Another bonus is that it's drought tolerant, Lucie adds, 'After the first couple of years this adaptable shrub rarely needs feeding, is untroubled by most pests and diseases and only needs you to prune away unruly growth means it virtually thrives on neglect yet rewards you with interest and form all year round.'

If you like the idea of yellow blooms this autumn, then you can buy your Mahonia japonica from Thompson & Morgan, from £12.99 for a 9cm pot.

Shopping essentials

Now is the perfect time to start looking for some amazing flowering plants that will give you colour and interest from now until December.

At this time of the year we're all starting to plan our bulbs for the season ahead – deciding on our garden layouts, how to plant bulbs, where to plant them, colour schemes and then getting them planted.

It's a busier time of year than one imagines especially as it's the ideal time to plant bulbs for spring. The big question as well is whether we water bulbs after planting, or is there enough moisture in the ground already for them to manage?

We've asked our garden experts for their thoughts and tips and how to give them the best start in autumn so they thrive.

Do you water bulbs after planting in autumn?

'When planting bulbs, just like when you are adding pot grown plants into your garden, watering straight after planting is advisable simply to help settle the soil back into place around the bulbs,' advises Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse rxpert at Harvst Automatic Watering.

The reason behind this method? 'Bulbs need their bases to make direct contact with moist soil in order for them to produce roots - by watering immediately after planting you settle the soil and remove any air pockets so the bulbs are completely in contact with the soil,' Lucie shares.

Fiona Macdonald, cut flower and foliage farmer at Flowers by Raspberry Wild agrees, 'I water them in as it sets the soil/compost around them and gives them a nice home, then I leave them completely. If the spring is dry I'll give them a drink, but you will get to know – and they will tell you if they need watering after.'

It is vital to check your soil though, Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres explains, 'The main thing is to avoid constantly wet soil, as bulbs can rot when they are left sitting in water.'

You can easily check the moisture in your soil by investing in a tester, Amazon's 5-in-1 soil moisture meter also measures pH levels, sunlight intensity and temperature as well, it's currently £16.65.

Ground vs pots

This is where the difference comes in – and more care is needed to keep your freshly planted bulbs thriving.

'Whilst bulbs planted in the ground in autumn are unlikely to need you to water them regularly, you may need to water those which you have planted in pots,' says Lucie.

Julian explains why, 'Bulbs in containers usually need more attention than those planted in the ground. Pots can dry out quickly, so check them during prolonged dry spells. Keep the compost lightly moist but make sure excess water can drain freely through the holes in the base. Once shoots appear, apply a high-potash feed, such as tomato feed, to support flowering.'

Aftercare tips for getting bulbs off to a good start in autumn

Two areas for after planting care to watch out for are pests and disease.

'It’s important to keep in mind when planting bulbs in the autumn that they will be viewed as a rich source of nutrients and water to many pests visiting your garden as their natural sources of food start to reduce as the weather changes,' says Lucie.

To ensure your bulbs stay where you planted them there are a couple of things you can do. The first is to use bulb baskets – we like Thompson & Morgan's, from £5.99 for one, and is good at stop squirrels from digging up bulbs. Another option is to plant them a bit deeper. 'You can also use chicken wire above the bulbs and below the surface of the soil or mulch to prevent them from being easily dug up,' Lucie adds.

Tulip fire is perhaps the most common, and does only affect tulips. There's also bulb rot that's caused by fungi or bacteria in soggy soil. To help prevent these bulb diseases it's important to keep your bulls in a cool, dry, well-ventilated space before planting out. Choose only the healthy looking bulbs, reject any that feel soft and have signs of mould. Make sure they're not damaged too.

Essential bulb planting kit

It is always a good idea to water your bulbs after planting, but sparingly – learn how to check your soil with a tester and keep an eye out for pests and disease that can hinder your bulbs from thriving over the winter months.

Hydrangeas are at their peak from late spring through to autumn, but in September you'll find their blooms starting to peter out. There are several things you should do with hydrangeas in September as the blooms near their end to get them ready for next year.

Autumn hydrangea care is quite straightforward, involving protecting them with mulch ahead of winter and leaving the heads intact. However, in September there are a few other jobs you can do that will not only keep your plants looking their best but could give you some free plants for next year too.

Chris Bonnett founder of GardeningExpress says, 'September is a good time of year to give hydrangeas a little more attention. For example, spent flowerheads can be left alone over autumn and winter as they add a gorgeous look to the garden, especially when frost arrives.'

1. Don't hard prune

It's vital that you don't over-prune hydrangeas at this time of year. Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director at LBS Horticulture explains why: 'Faded flowerheads should be left intact and on hydrangeas over winter. This is because they will naturally insulate the following year's flower buds from the cold winds and frosts in winter.'

'If you really don’t like the look of browned blooms, you can snip off just the flower head,' suggests Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. 'Cut the stem just below the spent flower, but don’t take much off and avoid cutting into the thicker, woody stems. For lacecap varieties, you can cut the faded heads back after flowering to the second pair of leaves below the head to stop seed forming, which saps energy.'

When you are giving your hydrangeas a little prune it's also a great time to check for pests and diseases.

2. Take cuttings

September is the last possible time to take cuttings from your hydrangea before it goes into its winter dormancy. You can take semi-ripe ones, which is when the base of the stem is beginning to get woody, but the tip is still green.

'When taking cuttings from hydrangeas at this time of year, look for healthy, straight stems from this year's growth which are free of flowers or flower buds,' advises Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Harvst Automatic Watering. 'You need to cut a length of approx 10 to 15cm in length, cutting through the stem just below a leaf node where there is a high concentration of plant cells and hormones which will trigger root growth.'

According to Lucie, the roots should start to appear after 4 to 6 weeks, and from that point onwards your new hydrangea has time to develop a healthy root system ready for next spring.

3. Keep watering

One thing that is important is to keep watering. 'We’ve had some rainfall so far, but if September is dry where you are, then continue to water newly planted hydrangeas and keep a close eye on those in containers,' suggests Chris.

Julian agrees, 'The phrase “water until the ground freezes” is useful: well-hydrated roots cope with winter far better than dry ones.'

You can check the soil's moisture levels with a tester – we like the XLUX long probe plant soil moisture meter, £12.99, Amazon, or have a good feel about the soil and see if it feels moist further down or not.

4. Use mulch

Mulching is such a key element for healthy plants and for locking in moisture – it's a must-have buy for every garden – or make your own! It also suppresses weeds and insulates your hydrangea from the cold months that lie ahead.

'Mulching around the base of hydrangeas will help to protect the plants from frosts and retain moisture,' says Richard. 'Use an organic material like bark, leaf mould or rotted manure, ensuring that the mulch does not actually touch the stem of the plant to prevent rotting.'

Amazon sell leaf mould compost, 50 litres by Happy Earth Soil for £18.98, it's made from 100% fallen leaves making it a living compost with worm castings and microbes.

5. Stop fertilising

'In September, you should stop feeding hydrangeas if you are still doing so,' advises Richard. 'Fertilising can encourage the plant to produce new, weak growth that can be easily damaged by autumn frosts.'

'If you feed at all,' adds Julian, 'Use a low‑nitrogen, high‑potash feed so you don’t push soft growth that winter will hit.'

We like Westland's sulphate of potash fertiliser, 1.5kg for £11.99, Amazon.

Your pruning kit essentials

Follow these top tips this September and your hydrangeas will survive the winter well.

There are some people who just seem to have laundry figured out. Their washing baskets never seem to overflow, clean clothes don't live in laundry baskets to be sorted later, and they always have somewhere to dry clothes indoors during autumn and winter.

Who are these people, you ask? Well, I'm about to tell you! As someone who tests the best heated clothes airers, steam irons and other laundry kit for Ideal Home, I've learned that a good laundry routine isn't necessarily about doing more washing. It's often more about having a few simple systems and the right tools in place to make sorting, washing, drying and putting clothes away that little bit easier.

According to the laundry pros I spoke to, there are seven things worth having in your laundry arsenal.

1. They own more than one laundry basket

One enormous laundry hamper might look tidier, but it can leave you with a mountain of clothes to sort before you've even got them to the washing machine.

'Separate laundry baskets make sorting as you go much easier,' says Emma Rawley, Product Development Director at Beldray. ' Stackable baskets (like this set of 2, £9.99 at Amazon) are great for separating lights, darks or different household members, while collapsible designs are ideal when storage space is limited.'

Mary Widall, Product Category Manager for Laundry at Minky, agrees. 'Using a divided laundry hamper is one of the simplest ways to make sorting easier, as clothes can be separated as soon as they're taken off rather than tackling one big mixed pile on laundry day.'

For larger households, she recommends giving each family member their own basket. Stackable versions like this laundry basket organiser (£37.96 from Amazon) are particularly useful as they make use of vertical space and can then be used to return clean clothes to the right room.

Shop pretty but practical laundry baskets

2. They use a versatile clothes airer

A reliable clothes airer is one of the first things I'd invest in for a smoother laundry routine, particularly in the UK where the weather can't always be relied upon.

'A good airer is another essential, particularly in the UK where drying outdoors isn't always an option,' says Mary. 'Choosing one that suits the size of your household and folds away easily when it isn't being used can help prevent laundry from taking over your living space.'

Emma recommends having a mix of drying options, such as a main airer for larger loads and a radiator or heated clothes airer when you need additional space or faster drying.

Catrin Parry, Buying Lead at Lakeland, also recommends an indoor/outdoor airer, like this Lakeland airer, £44.99, that can be folded without removing all the clothes if the weather suddenly changes.

The important thing is having a drying setup flexible enough that one rainy day doesn't bring your laundry routine to a halt.

Shop clothes airers you won't need to hide

3. They've invested in a heated clothes airer

If you regularly dry washing indoors, I think a heated clothes airer really comes into its own during autumn and winter.

Catrin recommends Lakeland's Dry:Soon Deluxe heated clothes airer, £169.99 (our top choice in our buying guide), which can hold a whole load of laundry and costs around 8p per hour to run, based on Lakeland's figures. She also suggests pairing it with a cover to help speed up drying.

However, you don't necessarily have to buy another airer. Mary highlights Minky's SureDRI Heat Pod Pro, £45 at Argos, which can turn a standard three-tier airer into a heated drying set-up.

Whichever method you choose, remember that drying clothes indoors releases moisture into the air, so ventilation is important too and is one of the main considerations when choosing a heated clothes airer and one of the main reasons why getting your hands on a good dehumidifier with a laundry mode is a real gamechanger.

Shop our favourite heated clothes airers