Hanging baskets are a fabulous way of adding a splash of summer colour to gardens, doorways and porches with their cheery blooms and cascading greenery.

But if yours are a casualty of the hot summer weather and are flagging in the current heatwave, you’ll be wondering if there is anything you can be doing right now to revive tired hanging baskets in the height of summer so you can enjoy their colourful blooms for longer.

‘Hot summer weather can quickly leave hanging baskets looking tired, but in most cases they can be brought back to life with a little care,’ says Chris Bonnet, plant expert and founder of online garden centre Gardening Express. ‘Even simple things like moving your basket into a shadier spot just for a few days can make a real difference.’

Find out more ways to give your hanging baskets a boost, with our expert top tips.

1. Move to a shadier spot

‘If your hanging baskets are positioned in full sun or a south-facing garden and drying out by lunchtime, move them into a slightly shadier position if you can,’ advises Julian Palphramand, Head of Plants at British Garden Centres.

‘Moving your basket or plants into a shadier spot, even just for a few days, can make a real difference,’ agrees Chris. ‘Giving it a breather somewhere with partial sunlight or afternoon shade allows it to recover without the added pressure of scorching heat. Then once it's perked back up and producing healthy new growth, you can gradually move it back into a sunnier spot - just remember to keep an eye on watering as it readjusts.’

2. Refresh the compost

‘If the compost has shrunk away from the sides of the basket or looks bone dry even after watering (a sign that only the top is getting watered), then it is advisable to soak the entire basket in a bucket of water for around 20 minutes to fully rehydrate the compost before hanging it back up,’ suggests Chris. ‘It's also worth feeding your basket with a liquid plant food, like this Eazifeed Feed for Hanging Baskets & Tubs, £4.99 for 500ml, Amazon, every week or two, as all that watering washes nutrients out pretty quickly.’

‘A light liquid feed can help revive baskets, but only once the compost has been rehydrated,’ agrees Julian. ‘Feeding dry baskets is a waste of time and can even make things worse. If your baskets have gone beyond saving, it may be better to cut your losses, refresh the display and start again with something tougher for the rest of summer.’

Adding a moisture control gel to hanging baskets, such as Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Watering Storing Gel, £5 at B&Q, is always worth doing as it will help retain moisture and keep hanging baskets hydrated for longer. Do this at the planting up a hanging basket stage if you can.

Shop for hanging basket compost

3. Remove faded flowers and re-shape greenery

Deadheading the flowers in your hanging baskets throughout summer is a must in order to keep them flowering, but trimming them back more thoroughly in later summer will help give them an extra boost.

‘If your hanging baskets are flagging, start by trimming off any dead growth and removing anything that’s finished, because old flowers and straggly stems will only make them look more exhausted,’ advises Julian.

‘Removing dead blooms and trimming back any leggy or dried-out stems will encourage the plant to put its energy into producing fresh blooms, rather than wasting it trying to keep dying growth alive,’ adds Chris.

And if any dead plants can’t be salvaged, simply remove these and tuck in a few new plants, such as bedding or trailing plants, to freshen up the basket, adding in a little fresh compost around the plants.

4. Water thoroughly... don’t rely on just a light sprinkle

‘A common watering mistake people make is giving baskets a light sprinkle of water, which often doesn't reach the roots,’ says Chris. ‘Instead, try to deep water thoroughly until the water runs from the bottom of the basket.’

‘If your basket feels noticeably light when lifted, it probably means it needs watering,’ says David Denyer, florist and gardening expert at Eflorist. ‘A great way of working out if watering is required is to stick your finger 2–3 cm into the compost. If it feels dry at that depth, water it.'

‘You’ll want to water early in the morning thoroughly, check again in late afternoon/evening on really hot days and make sure to water until it runs from the bottom of the basket. As a guide for how often to water hanging baskets, when the temperature reaches between 18–22°C you’ll want to water them every 1-2 days, 18–22°C, daily and 28°C+, morning and evening,’ adds David.

‘However, the actual temperature matters less than the combination of sun exposure, wind, basket size and plant density. For instance, a 21°C breezy sunny day can dry out baskets faster than a still 25°C day.’

5. And take care not to overwater

‘You can certainly overwater a hanging basket too,’ says David. ‘It tends to happen most when the basket has poor drainage, for instance, if the liners are blocking drainage holes, or you water heavily when the compost is already saturated.’

‘There are some signs you can look for to see if you have overwatered your hanging baskets. Look out for yellowing leaves, limp stems despite wet compost, mould or algae on soil, a sour smell or root rot.’

‘The key to not overwatering is to soak fully and let excess drain away, but don’t keep compost permanently waterlogged,' adds David.

6. Adapt planting with hot-weather varieties

‘Not all hanging basket plants struggle in warm temperatures,’ adds David. ‘In fact, some of the best-performing varieties originate from regions where hot and dry weather is the norm, such as Mediterranean garden plants.’

‘Hanging baskets are exposed to sun and wind from every direction, meaning their compost dries out more quickly than garden soil. So choosing plants that are naturally drought-tolerant and have adapted to intense sunshine will keep your baskets looking their best all summer long.’

‘Some great options for hanging baskets that will cope well within the summer heat include:

Portulaca - native to hot, arid regions and boasting succulent-like leaves that store water, varieties like these Portulaca grandiflora plants, £3.99 at Gardening Express, can cope well during dry spells of heat when other traditional bedding plants could wilt.

Petunia - as long as they are regularly watered and fed every week or two with liquid fertiliser, modern varieties of petunias, like these Petunia Frenzy Mixed Mini Plug Plants, £14.99 at Amazon, have adapted to cope exceptionally well with hot summers.

Geraniums - they remain a dependable choice for summer hanging baskets, as they actually prefer drying out slightly between waterings and continue to bloom during prolonged periods of hot weather. Try these Geranium zonale Salmon, £11.99 at Gardening Express.

Verbena - an excellent choice for sunny hanging baskets and another plant that has naturally adapted to short periods of drought and warm, dry conditions. Try these Verbena bonariensis purple tops, from £7.99 at Crocus.

Lantana - boasting a vigorous root system that efficiently makes use of the available moisture, varieties like this Lantana camara 'Dallas Red', from £19.99, Suttons, are impressively drought-tolerant,' suggests David.

Do you have summer hanging baskets? How are they faring right now?

On a day trip from Vienna to Bratislava last week, I found myself drawn to one low-maintenance hedge in particular – and despite the hot weather, it was thriving.

The formal Baroque gardens by Bratislava Castle were a sight to behold, but it was the hedging that caught my eye in particular. Up close, I recognised it as a kind of Acer – field maple, or Acer campestre, to be exact. We’ve celebrated it before as one of the best trees for small gardens, but its value as a hedge just isn't spoken about enough.

It’s convinced me that field maple is one of the best low-maintenance hedges you can grow – and not just in summer, either. Here’s why.

Field maples can be grown as trees or hedges (you can buy bare-root and pot-grown field maple from Thompson & Morgan), and the ones I saw in Bratislava Castle’s gardens were beautifully clipped into formal hedging. What really struck me was how healthy they looked despite the scorching heat – and according to experts, that’s partly because they’re drought-tolerant once established.

'Field maple is one of the most forgiving hedges you can plant,' says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. 'It’s a British native that puts up with almost any soil, from heavy clay to chalk and poorer, sandy sites, and once it’s settled in, it’s drought-tolerant, often coping better in dry spells.'

It’ll just need a little extra TLC while it settles into your garden.

‘Young or newly planted field maple will need consistent moisture to build roots, but mature plants are capable of withstanding dry weather and are fairly drought-tolerant,’ says Richard Barker, horticultural expert at LBS Horticulture.

After that, field maple really is one of the lowest-maintenance hedges you can grow – even more so than other fast-growing hedges.

‘Field maple makes a great low-maintenance hedge because it grows slower than other hedges like privet, making it less likely to grow out of hand,’ explains Richard. ‘It only requires light pruning to keep its shape, and it can easily bounce back if it is cut back hard.’

And that’s not all – field maple is also a brilliant wildlife garden idea, since it provides a living shelter and food source for insects and animals. Plus, field maples are among the best trees for autumn colour, since they turn a fiery orange before dropping their leaves.

'It makes a dense, wildlife-friendly screen, with spring flowers for pollinators, “helicopter” seeds in late summer and a clear golden flush in autumn,' says Julian.

Field maple planting kit

Are you sold? The best time to plant field maple is during its dormant season (November to March) if you’ve bought a bare-root plant, but container-grown hedges can be planted all year round. You’ll just need to avoid any extreme weather, like heatwaves, drought and hard frosts.

Strawberry season is coming to an end – but that doesn't mean you should stop caring for your plants. Laying the groundwork now is key in ensuring a bountiful crop next year.

Pruning the leaves, managing runners and feeding are all essential parts of how to grow strawberries and these tips will help you keep the plants healthy and productive. They will also tidy your strawberry patch before winter sets in.

1. Trim back old leaves

Whether you are growing strawberries in pots or beds, your first task after fruiting is to trim back the old leaves. For this, sharp, clean secateurs are a must, as you don't want to introduce disease to your plants. Wipe your blades with an antibacterial solution – these Milton antibacterial wipes, available from Amazon, make it really easy – then snip away any old, diseased or dead leaves. You should cut as near to the crown (the base of the plant) as possible.

If you need new secateurs, check out the best secateurs – these Spear & Jackson secateurs from Amazon are a great budget buy.

Once all the dead and diseased leaves are cleared, turn your attention to the larger leaves. The aim is to thin the canopy to expose the crown to the sunlight. This will promote healthy new growth, which improves photosynthesis and fruiting.

'Cut off the old leaves about 10cm (4in) above the crown to allow fresh leaves to develop,' say experts from the RHS. 'This isn’t necessary with perpetual strawberries – instead just remove any dead, damaged or diseased leaves during the end-of-season clear-up'

Leave the new fresh growth unpruned.

2. Snip off runners

Runners are both a blessing and a curse. Planting your strawberry runners lets you expand your collection for free. However, without regular maintenance, they can take over your garden and seriously impact fruiting.

Establishing runners consumes a lot of the plant's energy, which reduces the plant's capacity to fruit. Not pruning the runners is the main reason why my strawberry plant did not produce any fruit this year, and it's a pruning mistake I won't make again.

Strawberry plants only have a short lifespan – around two to four years – so it is a good idea to propagate strawberries from runners or grow strawberries from shop-bought fruit to replace the existing plants once they stop fruiting.

If you want to grow your strawberry collection or need to replace old plants, then select a few of the strongest runners to cultivate and remove the rest. However, if you are happy with your strawberry patch and your plants are relatively young, then you do not necessarily need to cultivate any runners at all and can cut them all back.

3. Remove old straw and lay fresh mulch

Adding straw mulch around the plants is one of the tasks to do with strawberries in April. It is a great way to shield the fruit from resting on the ground – which can cause rot and encourage pests. However, once the strawberry plants have finished fruiting, you should clear away the old straw along with any rotten fruit or fallen leaves in order to protect them from plant diseases in September.

If left, 'the straw can become an ideal environment for fungal diseases, slugs and snails when damp,' explains experts from the RHS. This can lead to Botrytis grey mould which can damage both the plants and future fruit.

If you don't want to use straw, then mulch mats – available on Amazon – are a great alternative. However, these should also be removed after fruiting to aid airflow to the plant and reduce the risk of mould and rot.

If you used netting to protect the fruits – like this from Amazon – this can also be removed from strawberry plants after fruiting. This further aids air circulation and will let birds pick off any pests.

4. Maintain regular feeding and watering

Stopping your watering and feeding routine once your strawberry plants have finished fruiting is one of the most common garden watering mistakes.

Keeping the plants hydrated and nourished lays the groundwork for healthier plants next year.

Experts from Roots Plants also recommend a feed with general purpose fertiliser after pruning. 'This encourages new growth the following year and means that your plants should crop well for about 3-4 years before you need to replace them.'

In spring, supplement with mulch around the crown and feed with tomato food – Tomorite from B&Q is highly recommended.

If you lay the groundwork now, you should be rewarded with a large, healthy crop of strawberries next summer.

Judging from the state of our lawns after a very hot summer, it’s unsurprising that many gardeners are looking at drought-tolerant grass types here in the UK.

There are plenty of staples a drought-tolerant garden should have, but it’s easy to forget about our lawns. It’s easy enough to revive a dry lawn, after all – but what if we think forwards and start growing hardier grass species, instead?

Well, as it turns out, drought-tolerant grass mixes are available to buy here in the UK – you’ll just need to know what to look for.

Drought-tolerant grass mixes

1. Fescues

Some types of grass are more drought-tolerant than others – and you’ll save yourself plenty of time looking for lawn care tips that keep your grass alive in hot weather if you start growing them.

‘Fescues are the most drought-tolerant, so any grass mix containing these would be a good choice for the best performance in drought conditions,’ says Cheryl Harper, managing director of Greensleeves Lawn Care. ‘This is largely because fescues develop deep, extensive root systems, allowing them to access moisture from further down in the soil when the surface begins to dry out.’

Boston Seeds Slow Grow and Wildflower Companion Grass Seed from B&Q contains five different fescues for excellent drought-tolerance, as well as good performance in shade. Although it doesn’t contain wildflower seeds, it’s the perfect foundation for mixing some in for a wildlife-friendly lawn.

‘Fescues’ fine, narrow leaves generally have less leaf surface area, which can reduce water loss, meaning they can cope with dry conditions for longer than many other common lawn grasses,’ adds Cheryl.

Or, of course, you could look into low-maintenance grass alternatives. Creeping thyme, for example, is a drought-resistant perennial that looks beautiful when it’s in flower.

2. Perennial ryegrass

Fescues aren’t the only drought-tolerant grasses out there – other deep-rooting seed mixes are considered the gold standard for a climate-resilient lawn, too.

‘Deeper rooting lawn seed mixes are generally the best for drought tolerance,’ echoes Guy Jenkins, Consumer Manager at Johnsons Lawn Seed. ‘Tetraploid perennial ryegrasses are used selectively within our lawn seed mixtures as they are known to promote healthy root growth that penetrates deeper into the soil to find the essential nutrients and moisture below the surface – particularly important when rainfall is scarce.’

A1 Shade & Drought Grass Seed, which you can order from Amazon, contains both perennial ryegrass and creeping red fescue, so it’s perfect for shaded and dry gardens.

'April, May or September is generally the best time of year to sow new lawn seed in the UK,' adds Guy. 'For the first six weeks after sowing, you’ll need to water your young grass plants once a day, using either a light sprayer hose, a sprinkler or a fine holed watering can.'

In the meantime, there are plenty of ways to protect a lawn in a heatwave!

The kitchen is the heart of the home, so it's not surprising that it can have a big impact on how potential buyers view a property. But if you're planning an upgrade, it's worth knowing which kitchen features that add value are actually worth considering.

Let's face it, a new kitchen can be a serious investment. While it's difficult to put a precise figure on how much an individual feature can add to a property, kitchen designer Tom Howley says a smaller bespoke kitchen typically starts from £25,000, while larger kitchens incorporating features such as an island start from around £50,000.

But you don't necessarily need to invest at this level to create a kitchen that appeals to buyers and add value to your home. From clever storage ideas and space designed for socialising to quality kitchen cabinets and smaller finishing touches, I spoke to kitchen designers and an estate agent to find out which features can make the biggest difference.

1. Kitchen island with seating

A kitchen island with seating remains one of the most sought-after features in modern homes, says Tom Howley, creative design director at Tom Howley.

'It creates a natural gathering place for family and friends, adds valuable workspace, and provides flexible dining and entertaining space – making it a feature that consistently appeals to buyers and homeowners alike.'

Nikki North, property consultant at Redbrik Estate Agents says open-plan kitchen layouts continue to attract strong interest among buyers.

'Buyers are looking for kitchens that allow them to cook while staying connected to family life or entertaining guests, rather than feeling shut away,' she says.

2. Clever, concealed storage

If you struggle to keep your kitchen tidy, you're not alone. If you're wondering what the secret is, people with tidy kitchens usually have clever storage solutions.

'Clever storage solutions that keep worktops clutter-free can also make a kitchen feel far more enjoyable to use, and we're seeing an increasing number of coffee stations neatly concealed within cabinetry,' says Nikki.

Smart, bespoke kitchen storage ideas that are tailored precisely to your space makes every inch of the kitchen work harder, adds Tom. 'Custom solutions maximise storage, improve organisation, and create a clutter-free environment – giving homeowners a kitchen that is as practical as it is attractive.'

You don't need to invest in bespoke cabinetry to achieve the same benefits, though. Adding drawer dividers, pull-out organisers or a slimline trolley can all work towards creating a kitchen that feels more spacious, organised and appealing to potential buyers.

3. Quality cabinetry and finishes

'A well-designed kitchen is one of the most valuable investments you can make in your home, and the right features deliver lasting appeal for both everyday living and future resale,' says Tom Howley.

He highlights wood cabinetry and handcrafted dovetail drawers work well thanks to their durability, timeless style and premium appeal. He also notes that solid wood can also be refinished, repainted, and refreshed over the years.

John Law, creative director of interiors at Woodhouse & Law, agrees that opting for cabinetry that can be re-painted at a later stage can be a real selling point. 'Many customers choose it because they wish to invest in high quality joinery, but love the fact it can be refreshed in terms of style with a new paint job in the future.'

You don't necessarily need to spend tens of thousands on a bespoke kitchen to give it a premium feel, either. Updating small details, like replacing kitchen handles and pulls can make an instant difference. 'Upscaling the ironmongery on your kitchen gives the cabinetry an instant lift.'

4. Connection to the garden and natural light

A kitchen that feels light, bright and connected to the garden can be a big draw for potential buyers. If you're planning a kitchen extension, Katie says it's worth thinking about how you can improve the natural kitchen lighting and make the space feel better connected to your outdoor space.

'The position and feel of the kitchen plays a significant role in its appeal,' she says. 'Plenty of natural light is a key priority, with buyers often favouring kitchens positioned at the rear of the property.'

When space and budget allow, sliding or bi-fold doors that open onto the garden create a seamless connection. 'It's a feature that's particularly appealing during the summer months and one that remains high on many buyers' wish lists,' adds Katie.

Of course, you don't necessarily need the budget or space for a major extension to make your kitchen feel brighter. Rooflights, larger windows or glazed doors can all help to bring more natural light into a room, and arranging your dining or seating area can make that connection stronger.

Ultimately, the kitchen features that add value aren't always about creating the most expensive or elaborate space. A well-planned layout, clever storage and lasting finishes will help your kitchen feel like a more enjoyable space, while making it more appealing to potential buyers when it's time to sell.

We have a month or so until the summer ends and the shift begins, and it's easy to feel a little downhearted about all of the stunning colours that summer can bring.

So now is the ideal time to look at what can still give you beautiful colour during this transitional period.

We asked our experts what they would have in their gardens to give them effortless colour from August to autumn. There are some wonderful varieties to choose from, including autumn perennials – which will you pick?

1. Japanese anemone

This is a variety that's not mentioned as much as it should be. It's fast-growing and can get quite tall, so if you want something that will cover well, this is your go-to; it's also loved by pollinating insects.

'The blooms of Japanese anemone can begin to open in August, and can last up until October,' says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director at LBS Horticulture. 'As flowers fade, cut them off at the leaf joint to stop the plant from going to seed and trigger the production of new flower buds.

Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres agrees, 'For reliable colour that carries you from August into autumn, Japanese anemones are hard to beat. They have that slightly loose, romantic habit that works well at the back or middle of a border, and they’ll keep flowering for weeks if they’re happy.'

There are a couple of really beautiful varieties to consider. Robustissima has pretty pink flowers and will grow up to 90cm and 60cm in width, from £12.99 at Thompson & Morgan. If you're more of a purist, then consider Honorine Jobert with its crisp white flowers; grow it up alongside a wall for maximum effect, from £13.99 at Crocus.

2. Dahlias

'Whilst dahlias are not necessarily classed as low-maintenance, they are seen as ‘high-reward’ plants where a single tuber will produce masses of vibrant blooms over a long period, which enables them to add glorious colour through August, September and October when many summer flowers have finished,' explains Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation.

Keep your dahlias going as long as possible with these top tips from Richard: 'To encourage the plant to flower for longer, cut away old, fading flowers so that it focuses its energy on producing more flowers instead of going to seed. Ensuring that plants receive six hours of full sun per day and watering during hot, dry weather also helps the plant to flower for longer.'

One of the most popular dahlia varieties is Café au Lait with its dinner plate head; the colour is more subtle, but the size will add impact, currently on offer for £12.99 for a 5-litre container, Gardening Express.

For a vibrant burst of colour, look at Purple Fox; its bright magenta pompoms will brighten up your garden, from £9.99, Thompson & Morgan.

3. Perennial asters

With their super pretty daisy-like look, perennial asters come in pink, blue, white and purple and will add a lovely display of colour.

'They can begin to flower in mid to late August, and continue deep into autumn,' says Richard. 'With each plant blooming for an average of four to eight weeks, the overall display lasts longer depending on the type planted.'

Richard advises deadheading regularly as this will keep the plant producing more flowers. 'Staggering pruning can delay flowers on certain stems to make the plant bushier and extend the flowering display too.'

Snow Cushion is a compact perennial aster that has pretty white flowers, £7.99 for a 1 litre container from Gardening Express. For more of an impact and a mixed colour look, check out Thompson & Morgan's Alpinus mixed, £19.99 for a 1 litre pot.

4. Salvias

Salvia is part of the mint family and comes in quite a variety of colours. It's great for patios or if you want to create a country cottage look – pollinators love them too.

Richard advises, 'Salvias can produce colourful flowers in August, and if trimmed or deadheaded, they can produce more flowers up until October. If salvias start to become leggy or slow down around mid-summer, cut a third of the growth to trigger another flush of flowers that can last almost up until winter.' After this flush, give your salvias a good prune before winter.

Give your garden a fiery look with the bright orange/scarlet colour from the Royal Bumble variety, 1 litre pot from Suttons for £24.99. For an almost neon pink, have a look at Rose Pink Marvel, currently £9.97, from Gardening Express.

5. Sedum

Sedum is part of the succulent group and is hardy and easy to grow. They're also a great drought-safe option with colours ranging from mid pink, green, blues, burgundy, white and autumnal shades.

What's interesting about sedum is that it changes colour with the season, so it might be light green or pink initially, then change to deep shades as autumn hits. It's a good option for ground cover, so use it in borders and rock gardens.

J.Parkers Autumn Joy, £3.99 for one first-grade loose root, has star-shaped flowers in a greenish pink that changes to raspberry pink and ends in a rich golden bronze.

For a multicoloured look, Gardening Express have a pack of five plants in their succulent sedum collection, currently £19.99.

6. Rudbeckia

'Rudbeckia produce daisy-like blooms that can last from August until October, or until the cold weather begins to kill off the flowers,' says Richard.

Also known as 'Black-eyed Susans', this is a striking flower to have in your garden with its droopy leaves, and they are definitely one to consider for your pollinators.

Keep your rudbeckia going as long as possible by cutting off old, dying flowers, as that can trigger the plant to produce new buds. 'It will also have more energy for flowering if it receives a few hours of direct sunlight per day.'

Buy Little Goldstar, currently £7.99 for three from Gardening Express, if you love the bright yellow colour. They're great for pots or mass plant them in your borders.

For a richer, more dramatic touch of colour, look at Cherry Brandy with its dark red petals and purple stamens, from £9.99 at J. Parkers.

7. Chrysanthemums

'Hardy chrysanthemums deserve a mention too, because they can be remarkably useful when you want something that keeps performing without much fuss,' advises Julian.

They love sunny spots, direct light and well-draining soil, and if you pinch growing tips in spring, they'll last well, possibly through until November.

Colour-wise, there's a wide choice; we love Amiko Violet, with its deep mauve blooms that will give your borders and pots a vibrant display, £19.99 for a 1-litre pot, Thompson & Morgan. If you prefer seeds, then Amazon's chrysanthemum Indicum Hortorum might be for you in different colours, £7.95 for 300.

Shopping essentials

Follow our guide to give your garden some lovely colour over the next few months and give your plants some love so they can bloom for you as long as possible.

Learning how to repot a Monstera can be an absolute game-changer for your plant’s health – and it brought my plant back to life.

The best time to repot a Monstera is generally said to be spring, but that doesn’t mean you can’t rehome your plant in summer. I repotted my Monstera a couple of months ago, and it’s already producing new leaves. Of course, it isn’t a magic fix for every Monstera – sometimes, other plant problems will need to be addressed, too – but if your Monstera is rootbound, or sitting in old, nutrient-deficient soil, there’s a good chance it’s in need of a new home.

‘August can be a good time to repot a Monstera, as the warmer and brighter conditions mean the plant is actively growing and should have plenty of time to settle into its new pot,’ says Jo Lambell, founder of houseplant retailer Beards & Daisies.

Here's a quick guide to repotting a Monstera.

What you'll need

1. Check that your plant needs repotting

As I mentioned before, there are a fair few reasons your Monstera might be struggling that can’t be fixed by repotting alone – so first, it’s worth assessing your plant’s overall health.

‘I wouldn’t repot a plant that is already struggling unless there’s a clear problem with the roots or compost, as moving it can add to the stress,’ says Andy Little, houseplant buyer at British Garden Centres.

If they look healthy, it’s worth checking that you’re caring for your Monstera properly first – but otherwise, repotting might be the best next step.

‘If the roots are cramped or the compost is struggling to drain, a fresh pot and fresh compost can give your Monstera the reset it needs,’ says Jo from Beards & Daisies.

The first step? Choosing a pot.

2. Choose the right pot

The size of your Monstera’s new pot is more important than you’d think, and it’s crucial that you don’t rehome your plant in a container that’s too large.

‘My biggest tip is not to automatically go for a much bigger pot,’ says Jo. ’Choose one that’s only one or two sizes larger than the current pot, as too much excess compost can hold onto moisture and increase the risk of root rot.’

Jo also recommends choosing a pot with drainage holes, like this 3-pack of plant pots from Amazon. You'll also need to find the best soil for your Monstera, and Jo recommends a good quality, well-draining houseplant compost. I used Westland Houseplant Potting Mix, which you can order from B&Q, and my plant seems to be loving it.

3. Assess the roots

After you’ve eased your Monstera out of its old pot, you’ll need to brush the soil away and check the roots to see if any houseplant root pruning is needed.

‘Healthy roots should feel firm,’ explains Andy. ‘Cut away any that are black, soft or smell unpleasant.’

A clean pair of simple snips like these Burgon & Ball Orchid Snips from B&Q are perfect for the job. It’s also wise to loosen any any compact roots before you repot your Monstera into its new container.

‘When you take your Monstera out of its existing pot, gently loosen any tightly bound roots before placing it into its new home,’ advises Jo.

4. Place the monstera in its new pot

Once you’ve given it some TLC, you can actually start repotting your Monstera.

‘Keep the plant at the same depth in its new pot and don’t pack the compost down too tightly,’ says Andy from British Garden Centres. ‘This is also a good time to add a moss pole if the stems are leaning, but leave the aerial roots in place where possible.’

A moss pole is actually on my wishlist, since the main stem is getting a little long. I’ve got my eye on this bendable moss pole from Amazon.

‘Water it well after repotting, let the excess drain away and return it to bright, indirect light,’ adds Andy. ‘Keep it out of strong sun for a little while and wait a few weeks before feeding.’

And that's it! From there, you'll just need to figure out how often you should water your Monstera.

Summer is the time when all of the garden pests like to appear and attach themselves to our plants and other things...

The heat speeds up breeding, so this helps them hatch and mature more quickly, which is why we see more of them about.

Our experts give us the lowdown on the top five destructive diseases and pests to look out for and what to do if you see them.

1. Vine weevil grubs

'Vine weevil grubs are the ones to watch most closely, especially in pots, where plants can suddenly wilt if the roots have been eaten away,' says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

The larvae of weevil beetles (large pine weevil and white pine weevil) have a white C-shaped body and a brown head. They particularly love conifer stumps and roots, and they tunnel underneath the bark and feed on the inner tree tissues. The larger variety damages young trees, whereas the smaller variety likes leaf edges and potted plants.

Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation, agrees, 'They are one of the most destructive pests to find in your garden. If your plants are looking sad, check the soil – easy in pots and containers by simply turning the pots over, and you will see the distinctive larvae amongst what's left of your plant's roots. What you also need to be careful of is bringing these grubs into your garden when introducing new plants – I’ve found them in pots from the garden centre when I’ve been transplanting pot-grown plants in early autumn.'

You can pick them off, but another option is to use nematodes and follow the instructions on the packet. We like Amazon's Nemasys vine weevil killer, £12.95 for a standard pack.

2. Earwigs

'In late summer and early autumn you will tend to see more earwigs in your garden as those which have hatched this year are now adults, and are either seeking food in the form of soft fruits or autumn flowers, as well as looking for places to shelter from the cooler weather now arriving,' says Lucie.

The thing with earwigs is that they can be useful – they like aphids, insect eggs and mites, but whilst they're munching on them they can equally be chewing on younger leaves too.

'Earwigs are nocturnal pests so if you see damage to your plants during the day the best way to reduce this is to set up traps at night,' advises Lucie. 'Something as simple as an upside-down flower pot filled with straw and positioned on a garden cane near your vulnerable plants will provide a post where they will shelter, and you can simply empty them in the morning.'

If that doesn't work for you, Amazon actually sell earwig shelters (who knew!) for £3.95, and it encourages them to stay away from your plants.

3. Shield bugs

Shield bugs are quite distinctive and one of the lesser 'pests' to deal with. 'Although not as serious, it’s worth checking any plants with ragged flowers, damaged leaves or unexplained marking, then clearing away debris and hiding places to keep numbers down,' suggests Julian.

However, the main reason you would want to remove shield bugs is the smell they can create when threatened according to Lucie. 'It's a strong odour if they feel threatened, you touch or squish them, although they don’t sting or bite. What you want to be mindful of is that they will be looking for somewhere to shelter as the weather gets worse and want to hibernate over winter ready for spring when they lay their eggs. Ideally you don’t want these stinky bugs choosing your greenhouse, shed or house as their over winter abode.'

The best way to prevent them is to block holes, seal cracks and check vents. Scent deterrents can be effective – you can make your own by buying a spray bottle (we like B&Q's, £2.50) and use a few drops of essential oils like peppermint (try Amazon's Nikura oil, £4.99) and mixing it with warm water. Spray where you think they are to repel them naturally.

4. Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that looks like flour spots on leaves, stems and buds. It's very common and loves perennials like roses, phlox, delphiniums and peonies; annuals like sweet peas, cosmos and sunflowers; and fruits like grapes, squash, and beans. You can also find it on lilacs and oak trees.

'You can try to decrease the risk of powdery mildew affecting your plants by thinning out crowded growth to increase airflow in plants,' says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director at LBS Horticulture. 'Ensure that plants are spaced apart for good airflow, and whenever you water plants, ensure that you are watering at the base instead of wetting the foliage to keep it dry.'

A natural way to treat this is by making a baking soda spray with water and a few drops of washing up liquid. If you prefer a ready-made option, then look at Amazon's EcoWidow antimould and mildew for plants spray, £15.99.

5. White rust

'White rust tends to be most prevalent in late summer and early autumn when temperatures start to cool,' says Lucie. 'What you need to watch for are small pale green or yellow spots on the top surface of leaves, and if you look on the underside you will find corresponding raised ‘blister-like’ forms of creamy-white. If left unchecked, these blisters will mature and release a chalky white powder which is then carried in the air to other plants.

Richard has some great advice to prevent white rust: 'Ensure that you are watering plants at the base, or water early in the morning so any wet foliage can dry properly. Spacing plants apart promotes good air movement and stops moisture from remaining on leaves, and if removing infected plant tissue, this should be disposed of in the bin, as composting can cause it to spread further.'

You can also spray neem oil on the leaves; it's a good natural way to stop it spreading. Amazon's premium neem oil can be used to kill insects and fungus naturally, £9.99 for 250ml.

Shopping essentials

Good garden hygiene is key in keeping most pests at bay. Of course, we can never get rid of all of them, and that would also go against the ecosystem of our gardens, but keep it tidy and free from debris to prevent as many as possible from making themselves at home.

There are so many plants you should deadhead in August to keep them blooming – and it’s likely that you’re already growing some of them in your garden.

Lots of plants can be cut back in August to encourage bonus flowers, but many annuals and perennials benefit from a lighter approach to keep them blooming through to the autumn months. That’s where deadheading comes into play – it’s a simple gardening technique that involves removing spent flowers to redirect the plant's energy into new flowers.

Here are a few plants to deadhead this August to keep them happily blooming away for the rest of their growing season. This list is by no means exhaustive – many plants benefit from deadheading, unless they’re self-cleaning annuals that don’t strictly need deadheading – but it’ll point you in the direction of the most popular candidates.

What you'll need

1. Sweet peas

Sweet peas are one of the most productive plants you can grow, because they have the potential to produce new flowers every day at the height of their season. By August, deadheading is a crucial sweet pea task.

‘Sweet peas need picking constantly if you want them to keep producing flowers,’ says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. ‘Once they start forming seed pods, the plant begins to wind down, so remove the pods as soon as you see them.’

Sweet peas are so delicate, a simple pair of garden snips like these Kent & Stowe Garden Life Snips from B&Q are perfect for the job.

2. Cosmos

Cosmos are adored for their ability to pump out blooms upon blooms right through the summer months. If you’re lucky, they’ll flower right through to the autumn – and they’re more likely to do that if you keep deadheading your cosmos this August.

‘Summer favourites such as cosmos benefit from regular deadheading and will produce noticeably more flowers as a result,’ says gardening expert Paul Parker from J. Parker’s. ‘Many annuals will also continue flowering well into autumn when spent blooms are removed regularly.’

If you’re looking for garden scissors with a more premium feel, the Niwaki Garden Snips are the best I’ve tried (and they make a wonderful gift!).

3. Repeat-flowering roses

Not all roses need deadheading, but repeat-flowering varieties absolutely do if you want them to keep flowering. With the right care, repeat-flowering roses can flower from spring to early autumn, when the first frosts arrive.

‘August is a good time to go over roses, as many will still have plenty of flowering time left,’ says Julian. ‘With repeat-flowering roses, remove the faded blooms back to an outward-facing bud.’

You can even use a sharp pair of bypass secateurs for the job, like these budget-friendly Spear & Jackson Razorsharp Advantage Bypass Secateurs from Amazon.

4. Dahlias

Dahlias are also prolific bloomers with the right care – and in late summer, deadheading dahlias becomes more important than ever.

‘Dahlias should be checked regularly for spent heads,’ advises Julian. ‘A simple rule with dahlias is that finished flowers tend to point downwards, whereas new buds are rounder and point upwards.’

For thicker stems on larger dinnerplate varieties, it’s wise to use a pair of bypass secateurs to deadhead your dahlias. These WOLF-Garten Bypass Secateurs, which you can buy from Amazon, are some of the best I’ve tried.

5. Petunias

It's also beneficial to deadhead petunias in August, and the technique can even revive tired plants.

‘A quick trim of leggy petunias can bring a tired container back into flower,’ says Julian.

‘When cutting old flowers, make the cut just above a strong leaf joint or side shoot,’ adds Paul from J. Parker’s. ‘This signals to the plant where to direct its energy, producing an abundance of fresh buds.’

Deadhead these plants in August to keep them flowering for the rest of the season.

If you're keen to know what herbs to grow on a kitchen countertop you've come to the right place. Whether you're short on outdoor space, or you want culinary ingredients within arm's reach while you're cooking, your kitchen can be the perfect spot for a small herb garden.

Herb gardens seem to be having a moment right now. Scrolling through TikTok or Pinterest, there's no shortage of inspiration if you're looking to bring your herb garden idea to life on your kitchen countertop.

Knowing which herbs to grow can be overwhelming, especially if you're new to gardening, so I asked plant experts and a chef which herbs they recommend growing on your kitchen countertop - and the ones most likely to make it into your meals. Some herbs are easier to grow at home than others, so before you start filling your worktop with pots, experts say there are a few things worth considering.

How many herbs should you grow on a kitchen countertop?

Less is definitely more when it comes to growing your own herbs indoors. According to indoor gardening expert Didrik Dimmen, CEO and co-founder of Auk, four to five pots is the realistic limit for most kitchens. 'Though naturally it will also come down to the size of your kitchen and how much counter space you actually have to work with.'

How much natural light and airflow your plants get matters too. 'Most herbs need somewhere between six and eight hours of decent light a day,' adds Didrik. 'Very few kitchen counters get that unless they're right beside a south-facing window.'

Choosing herbs that can cope with slightly lower light levels and giving each plant enough space for airflow will keep your countertop garden healthy. Which begs the question, which herbs are actually worth giving up countertop space for?

The best herbs to grow on a kitchen countertop

1. Basil

One of the best and most versatile herbs to grow on a kitchen countertop is basil.

As gardening expert Morris Hankinson, managing director of Hopes Grove Nurseries, explains; 'Basil is one of the easiest herbs to grow on a kitchen worktop because it thrives in warm conditions and is used frequently in everyday cooking.'

It does need a little care and attention, says Morris. 'You'll need to keep the compost lightly moist but never waterlogged, and pinch out the growing tips regularly to encourage a bushier plant and prevent it from flowering too soon.' If it begins wilting, it needs watering.

Chef Stephen Beaddie, says basil is one of his kitchen essentials. He uses it for tomatoes, pasta and pesto, although he warns that it needs to be used at its best. 'Basil can turn on you pretty quickly, so use it when it’s fresh. Don’t buy it on Monday with big plans for the weekend.'

2. Chives

New to growing herbs? Chives are a good place to start, as they're compact, productive and relatively fuss-free to grow indoors.

Morris points out that they're great for kitchen windowsills. 'They tolerate indoor temperatures well and can be snipped as needed. Water when the top of the compost begins to dry and harvest little and often to encourage fresh growth.'

Echoing this, Didrik rates chives for how low-maintenance they are. 'Chives are one of the easiest herbs to grow and will tolerate a bit of shade far better than basil will, which makes them a good choice for a counter that doesn't get direct sun all day.

If you're not great at remembering to water your plants every day (guilty), chives are ideal as you can get away without watering them for a day or two.

3. Mint

Mint is another staple, and a herb the experts all agreed works well on a kitchen countertop. It's also incredibly versatile, as Stephen uses to complement salads, peas, lamb, yoghurt. 'It works for anything that needs lifted or even a sneaky cocktail.'

It's best to grow mint in a pot on its own, rather than sharing a container with other herbs, advises Didrik. 'Mint is fast-growing and forgiving, but it needs slightly moister soil than the others and doesn't love scorching direct sun all day, so a bright spot that isn't the absolute hottest part of the counter works best.'

4. Parsley

One of Morris' go-to herbs to grow on a kitchen countertop is parsley, as it'll provide you with a steady supply of fresh leaves for cooking.

'It will grow well if it has plenty of light and consistent moisture,' Morris says. 'Avoid allowing the compost to dry out completely, and pick the outer stems first so the plant continues producing new growth from the centre.'

Don't worry too much if your kitchen counter will be in the shades for part of the day - Didrik says parsley copes well with a little shade.

'Parsley likes consistent moisture and doesn't mind a bit of shade, which makes it a good option for a counter that only gets a few hours of direct light,' he says. 'It's also fairly slow to bolt compared with some other herbs, so it tends to keep producing usable leaves for longer.'

5. Thyme

So, if you only have room for one herb to grow on your kitchen countertop, which should you choose? Chef Stephen's choice is thyme.

'Thyme is the hero of herbs. It's a good all-rounder that works with nearly anything savoury and adds flavour without taking over the whole dish,' he says. 'It’s also hardier than the softer herbs, so you’ve half a chance of using it before it dies.'

Morris adds that thyme is a good choice for a bright, sunny kitchen, and it prefers drier conditions. 'Thyme needs well drained compost and should be watered only when the surface has dried out. Regular harvesting keeps the plant compact and encourages fresh, aromatic growth,' he says'

Kitchen herb essentials

Now you know which herbs will work best on your kitchen countertop, you can get started on your indoor herb garden.

Looking out at my dry, yellow lawn in recent weeks, there’s been one question on my mind: Is my grass dead?

It might look as though it’s beyond help after weeks and weeks of heatwaves, but the good news is that it’s generally far healthier than it looks. In the long run, anyway – and there are a few ways to revive a dry lawn and restore it to its former lush, green glory.

I asked the experts whether ‘dead’ grass actually is dead, and just how easy it is to bring it back to life.

What you'll need

It’s been a swelteringly hot summer, and on the surface, no part of my garden has suffered more than my lawn. Is suffered the right word, though?

‘After a long summer of hot weather, drought conditions and intense sunshine, it's completely normal for lawns to look tired, patchy or brown by August,’ says Michael Holden, Flymo’s lawn expert. ‘The good news is that what many people assume is a 'dead' lawn is often simply dormant.’

So, a worn lawn isn’t necessarily a lost cause. In fact, it’s more of a protective mechanism – especially when your lawn is trying to stay healthy during a heatwave.

‘During periods of prolonged heat and drought, grass naturally slows or stops growth to conserve energy and moisture,’ Michael explains. ‘This protective state can leave the lawn looking straw-coloured or brown, but in many cases the roots and crown remain healthy beneath the surface. With the right care, most lawns can recover surprisingly quickly.’

That’s when you’ll need to pull your best August lawn care tips out of the bag. But first, there’s a quick check you can do to confirm that your grass is still alive beneath all that straw.

‘If the browning is fairly uniform across the lawn and the roots remain firmly anchored in the soil, there’s a good chance the grass is simply resting,’ says Michael. ‘Dead grass, on the other hand, is often patchy, brittle and easy to pull from the ground.’

If you think your grass is, in fact, dead, Michael suggests learning how to re-turf your lawn, or reseed it, as a next step (try fast-growing grass seed like Pronto Speedy Seed from Amazon. If you think there’s still life there, though, there are a few ways to revive your grass.

How to revive a lawn in August

Reviving dry, patchy grass after this summer’s heatwaves starts with learning how to water a lawn in hot weather – and there’s a correct way of doing it.

‘The best way to revive a lawn is to focus on restoring its health from the roots up,’ advises Cheryl Harper, managing director of Greensleeves Lawn Care. ‘If permitted, water the lawn deeply during prolonged dry spells rather than little and often, as this encourages deeper root growth and improves drought tolerance.’

Cheryl also recommends applying a wetting agent to help water penetrate the soil more effectively, making the most of any moisture available. This Striking Lawns Premium Wetting Agent is highly rated on Amazon. It’s worth knowing how to mow a lawn in hot weather, too, and Cheryl says raising the mowing height is key.

‘Mowing habits can make a significant difference,’ agrees Michael from Flymo. ‘Slightly longer grass helps shade the soil, reduce moisture loss and support stronger root systems. During August, I recommend maintaining a cutting height of around 5-7cm.’

So, your grass might not be dead after all! If there's still life beneath the surface, it's worth learning how to overseed your lawn, and even aerate it, to bring it back to its former glory.

The hot weather has made gardening a challenge this year, with many of us struggling to keep plants looked after and watered in the heat. But if your garden has lost its glow and the flowering plants are looking a little jaded, all is not lost.

Deadheading plants in August is one of the easiest, but most important jobs you can be doing right now. Focus on deadheading your summer bedding plants now and you’ll encourage a fresh flush of flowering that will see your garden right through to autumn.

‘To keep summer bedding plants blooming throughout autumn, it’s important to deadhead regularly,’ says Chris Bonnett, plant expert and founder of online garden centre Gardening Express. ‘Deadheading redirects plant energy into fresh blooms rather than the dead flowers. And there are certain bedding plants it’s worth keeping a close eye on during August.’

Read on to see which plants you should focus on and how to deadhead bedding plants most efficiently for a second flush of flowers.

Why deadheading bedding plants is a must

‘August is the prime time for deadheading your plants to keep them healthy as fall approaches,’ says Hanfei Niu at NiuPlants at Palmstreet app. ‘Once a flower wilts, a plant focuses on seed production instead of blooming and making new flowers. By removing old blooms before they set seed, it encourages the plant to produce more flowers instead, in another attempt to reproduce.’

‘August is also ideal for deadheading because plants are still growing but daylight is starting to shorten, so this keeps them blooming for the autumn rather than letting them go to seed. Regular deadheading keeps your plants looking beautiful, fresh and healthy all season long and keeps their energy and roots stronger as autumn approaches,’ adds Hanfei.

How often should you deadhead?

‘It really depends on the plant as to how often you’ll need to deadhead throughout August,’ advises Craig Wilson, co-founder and gardening expert at Gardeners Dream. ‘But usually around once a week is a good starting point to ensure you’re checking regularly for any new dying flowers that can be removed.’

‘Deadheading a little from time to time and often is best,’ advises Hanfei. ‘Check every few days, rather than waiting for all your plants to look tired and doing everything all at once.'

Which bedding plants benefit most from deadheading?

‘Focus on repeat-flowering favourites such as geraniums, petunias, marigolds, cosmos, dahlias and sweet peas,’ advises Mark Hewett Divisional Sales Manager for Garden Tools & Accessories at Wilkinson Sword. ‘By removing spent blooms before they have a chance to set seed, plants redirect their energy into producing fresh flowers rather than seeds, extending the display for several more weeks.’

‘Pinching out sweet peas is always a top priority,’ advises Hanfei. ‘If they set seed pods, they'll stop flowering almost entirely.’

How to deadhead effectively

‘Pinching the stem between your thumb and finger to snap off the stem is an easy way to deadhead,’ says Chris. ‘For more woody stems, snip with secateurs. And if you’re deadheading masses of small flowers, try using shears for speed.’

‘It’s worth keeping a close eye on certain bedding plants during August,’ advises Chris. ‘When deadheading marigolds, the spent flower heads can simply be pinched off and they’ll continue blooming during autumn. For deadheading petunias, pinch out faded, withered blooms along with their tiny stalks to prevent rotting. This will also stop the plants from looking untidy throughout late summer.’

‘When it comes to geraniums, simply snap off flower stalks from the main stem for fresh buds and to tidy the plant. And for deadheading cosmos, use snips to take off the old heads which will stop seed pods from forming and to encourage new growth.’

‘Dahlias will need secateurs for deadheating,’ adds Chris. ‘Cut old flower stems back to the closest leaf node or down to the main stem.’

5. Get your technique right

‘Don't make the deadheading mistake of simply pulling off faded petals. Instead, remove the entire flower stem back to the next healthy leaf or developing bud which will encourage stronger regrowth and a tidier plant,’ advises Mark. ‘It is essential that you make clean cuts without damaging healthy growth, so using snips or secateurs is always best when deadheading blooms on thicker stems.'

‘Use a sharp, precise tool to help prevent unnecessary damage to surrounding stems and foliage. Long-nosed pruning snips are ideal for the job, like these Straight Pruning Snips, £14.99 from Wilkinson Sword, with steel blades that deliver lasting sharpness and clean, accurate cuts, which makes it easer to work in tighter spaces between plants,’ adds Mark.

‘When deadheading, I’d always advise cutting back a certain amount but not too much and not just the flower,’ says Hanfei. ‘Follow the stem down to just above the first set of healthy leaves and snip off just the petals leaves to prevent an ugly stub that can rot.’

‘Use clean, sharp tools, like snips or pruning scissors. And ensure that they have clean blades to reduce the risk of spreading disease between plants,’ adds Hanfei.

Deadheading essentials

Don't stop at deadheading

‘Don't stop at deadheading,’ adds Hanfei. ‘Make sure to pull off any yellowing or brown leaves at the same time as you deadhead to keep plants looking neat and reduce disease risk.’

‘And keep watering bedding plants consistently, especially those in containers and hanging baskets, which dry out fast in August. Stressed, dry plants stop flowering regardless of deadheading,’ Hanfei adds.

‘Give long-leafed plants a trim too. For annuals like petunias that have gotten overgrown, a harder trim (cutting back by a third) alongside deadheading often triggers a fresh flush of compact growth,’ advises Hanfei. ‘And remember to separate deadheading from pruning. Shrubby plants (like lavender) are better lightly trimmed after flowering rather than deadheaded bloom-by-bloom.’

Give your bedding plants some care now, and they should continue to provide you with colour into the early autumn months.

As we approach mid-August, you might find yourself asking, 'Why is my agapanthus not flowering?'

This cottage-garden staple is loved for its impressive height and eye-catching blue hue. Typically, growing agapanthus is easy; they are low-maintenance and drought-tolerant, reliably producing beautiful blooms year after year. However, if yours isn't flowering, there could be a few reasons why. To help solve the problem, we've consulted the experts for their tips and tricks.

1. Plants are too young

'Newly planted agapanthus needs a couple of years to establish before they start flowering, so if yours is new, you may need to be more patient,' explains Chris Bonnett, founder of Gardening Express.

This is particularly the case for bulbs – like these from Crocus.

If you want guaranteed blooms this year, planting established plants in summer, rather than planting bulbs in February , may be the way to go. Gardening Express has a wide selection of agapanthus, guaranteed to be in bud or bloom – we love this Agapanthus Poppin Star from Gardening Express.

2. An established clump was recently divided or repotted

Just like new bulbs need time to settle, if you recently divided an established clump of agapanthus, you may need to wait a few years before you see flowers again.

'The plant can look completely healthy and still not flower,' says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. 'Dividing and repotting an established clump can often set agapanthus back a year or two before they settle in again. To solve this, leave established clumps alone as much as possible; give them full sun, and feed with a potash-rich tomato food through summer.'

Tomato food, like this Levington Tomorite Concentrate from Amazon, is often recommended for plants that are struggling to bloom – including gladioli that are not flowering.

'Resist the temptation to divide agapanthus too often because they do still flower well when their roots are slightly congested, meaning they don’t need to be moved too often,' adds Morris Hankinson, managing director of Hopes Grove Nurseries.

3. Not deadheading

Deadheading is one of the best things you can do with agapanthus after it's finished flowering and can help encourage flowers the following year. So if you're questioning whether or not you should deadhead agapanthus, the answer is yes.

‘Make sure you deadhead the faded flowers by snipping off any spent areas above the next set of healthy leaves,’ advises Elise Harlock, flower expert at Prestige Flowers. ‘This not only tidies up the plant but also prevents it from putting energy into seed production, which can result in fewer flowers appearing in the future.’

While there are some plants you should never prune in autumn, the best time to deadhead agapanthus is autumn.

4. Heatwaves and drought

If your agapanthus normally flowers reliably, but hasn't flowered this year, it could be due to the May heatwave.

'Severe drought when the plant is actively growing and forming buds can stunt or stop the development of flower spikes. Potted plants are especially vulnerable to this, as they dry out much faster,' says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture.

During prolonged dry spells, water deeply and occasionally – a couple of times a week should be enough. For potted agapanthus, water more frequently but make sure your pot has good drainage to prevent overwatering.

5. Overwatering

The opposite of drought, overwatering might also cause your agapanthus not to flower.

'Plants sitting in wet soil over winter can weaken plants and reduce flowering. Make sure the soil is well drained and if the plant is growing in pots or containers, ensure there are drainage holes,' explains Morris Hankinson, managing director of Hopes Grove Nurseries.'You could also place pots onto pot feet or bricks over winter to allow rainwater to drain out of the bottom easily.'

These invisible pot feet from Amazon are compatible with all pots and a must for the garden.

6. The buds were killed off by frost

Frost is one of the leading causes of agapanthus not flowering. 'The flower buds form deep in the crown the autumn before, and these can be killed off by frost over winter,' explains Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. 'To prevent this from happening, protect the crown from frost with mulch, or move pots somewhere frost-free over winter. Get that last bit right, and they'll reliably flower most years .'

There are lots of different types of mulch that can help protect plants from frost – Suregreen Melcourt SylvaBark on Amazon is RHS-approved – or you could use a horticultural fleece, like this sustainable wool fleece from Amazon.

7. Wrong sized pot

Agapanthus are great container plants – in fact, they are some of the best drought-tolerant plants for pots.

However, they perform best in smaller pots. 'Agapanthus prefer to be slightly root-bound. Putting a young plant into a pot that is too big can cause it to use its energy producing roots and excess foliage instead of flowering,' explains Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture.

'However, severe overcrowding can begin to restrict the water and nutrient uptake of plants, starving them of water and nutrients, which will eventually shut down flowering completely.'

Crocus stocks a specifically designed Terracotta Agapanthus pot. This pot has a slender shape to keep roots constricted but is less prone to waterlogging.

8. Not enough sunlight

Like sunflowers, agapanthus need at least six hours of sunlight to flower. So it's no surprise that a lack of sunlight is one of the main causes of agapanthus not flowering.

'If they are planted in the shade, the flower stems can grow leggy as the plant searches for light. As the plant forms the following year's buds inside the plant in late summer, shade during this time can ruin the display produced the next year,' says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture.

If you're looking for cottage garden plants for shade, consider foxgloves and hellebores instead.

For potted plants, this is easy to rectify; relocate the pot to a brighter spot. However, for agapanthus planted in the ground, you will need to lift the plant and relocate it to a full-sun aspect. It's important to note that relocating your plant could also cause your agapanthus not to flower for a few years.

If you're dealing with nocturnal garden invaders, choosing the right plants to deter foxes can be a gentle way to make your garden less appealing without causing them harm.

'Keeping foxes out of your garden can be a challenge, especially in rural areas, but there are a few effective tricks you can try,' says Sean McMenemy, wildlife expert and founder at Ark Wildlife. 'Using plants as a natural deterrent is a great, safe way to create both physical and scent-based barriers.'

While foxes are an important part of our local wildlife, they can quickly become a nuisance if they're digging up your flowerbeds, scattering bins and marking their territory. The good news is that there are plenty of humane ways to keep foxes out of your garden.

I spoke to wildlife and gardening experts to find out which plants to deter foxes are worth adding to your garden borders.

1. Lavender

Sean says choosing plant varieties with strong scents is one of the easiest ways to keep foxes away because they have an incredibly sensitive sense of smell. One of the most fragrant plants you can grow is lavender.

'Lavender is very effective because its strong floral scent is unpleasant to foxes,' he says.

Morris Hankinson, managing director of Hopes Groves Nurseries, agrees that growing lavender is one of the best all round choices because of the highly fragrant foliage.

'The oils are released even more when brushed against, which creates a scent that many mammals, including foxes, are thought to avoid,' he explains. 'Planting it around borders and access areas may help to keep foxes out of the garden.'

Where to buy lavender:

• B&Q: Try this Lavender Angustifolia carry six pack for £16.99 .
• Gardening Express: Hidcote lavender is one of the most popular varieties, and this Lavendula angustifolia Hidcote is currently on sale for £5.99.

2. Rosemary

Growing rosemary is popular as it's a kitchen staple, but it also earns its place in the garden as a deterrent to foxes.

'Rosemary is an evergreen shrub, providing year-round scent while also being incredibly useful in the kitchen,' says Morris.

He suggests planting it near entrances, pathways or areas where foxes frequently visit. And as an added bonus, it's a great addition to your herb garden.

Where to buy rosemary:

• Amazon: This 14cm Rosemary Bush from Amazon for £9.99 comes ready to plant.
• Sarah Raven: This Rosemary 'Foxtail', £18.95 for a 2 litre pot, will maintain its striking needle-like foliage throughout winter.

3. Curry plant

For something a little more unusual, the curry plant is not only a great sensory garden plant, it's also used to deter foxes.

'This Mediterranean perennial has silvery foliage and an unmistakable scent of curry as the name suggests,' says Morris. 'It’s a lovely herb and the pungent aroma may discourage foxes from spending time nearby.'

It's also a great low-maintenance option, as it thrives in dry, sunny borders and is particularly drought-tolerant once established.

Where to buy curry plant:

• B&Q: Try this Curry Plant Herb Plant Helichrysum Italicum 9cm Pot, which comes ready potted for £13.99.
• Crocus: If you don't need it potted, this Helichrysum italicum is £7.99 for a 9cm pot.

4. Holly

Not all fox deterrents rely on scent. Prickly shrubs - like holly - make it harder for foxes to move around your garden.

'Planting thick rows of prickly shrubs, like holly or mahonia, along your fences and entry points makes it much harder for foxes to squeeze through or jump over,' says Sean.

As well as being an excellent boundary hedge, holly is also one of the best evergreen plants that provides shelter and winter berries for birds.

Where to buy holly:

• Suttons: This Holly Green Alaska is £19.99 for a 2 litre potted plant
• Thompson & Morgan: For a creamy, white summer variety, try Holly 'Argentea Marginata', which is priced from £11.99 for a 9cm potted plant.

5. Berberis

Berberis can help create a prickly barrier, while bringing colour and texture to your garden.

'Berberis forms a dense network of thorny stems that can discourage foxes from squeezing through gaps in boundaries,' says Morris. 'Many varieties also offer attractive spring flowers and vibrant autumn foliage, making them highly ornamental.'

Plant berberis near fences, gates or entry points where foxes are most likely to enter. When it comes to pruning berberis, remember to wear thorn-proof gloves as the stems can be spiky.

Where to buy berberis:

• Thompson & Morgan: This Berberis Collection is for £19.99 for a set of three potted plants, and makes a colourful feature plant in mixed borders.
• Gardeners Dream: This Berberis 'Rose Glow' is available in 3L pots for £10.49.

6. Sage

Another popular kitchen herb, growing sage can also help to make your garden less appealing to foxes. Like rosemary and lavender, sage contains aromatic oils that create a strong herbal fragrance.

'Sage combines well with other Mediterranean herbs to create a scented border that may help make an area less attractive to visiting foxes. It is drought-tolerant when established as well,' says Morris.

Where to buy sage:

• Crocus: This Sage Common, £7.99 for a potted plant, is the most popular and widely-grown variety.
• Amazon: Or for a pop of colour, this Sage Purple Salvia officinalis purpurascens is £5.97 for a 9cm plant and produces rich red-purple stems.

What tools you'll need

While these plants may help to deter foxes, they work best alongside other humane deterrents. Keeping bins and food out of reach, and blocking easy access points can help reduce unwanted visitors.

Summer is usually when our gardens are at their peak, but after another run of hot, dry weather, you've probably noticed yours is looking, well, brown. Now that we're in late summer, you might also be thinking about how your garden will look once the weather starts to cool.

It's easy to fill your garden with lots of plants that put on a summer show, but once autumn swings around, borders start to become sparse if they're only filled with perennials. And as hotter, drier summers become more common, choosing low-maintenance plants that can cope with heatwaves while still delivering year-round interest is becoming a lot more important.

Evergreen shrubs are one of the simplest ways to achieve this. They'll provide structure and colour, but most interestingly, quite a lot of them are also drought-tolerant once established. So here are some of the expert-approved evergreen plants to consider filling your borders with to future-proof your garden.

Best drought tolerant, evergreen plants

'A lot of people end up filling their gardens with plants that only really shine for a few weeks of the year,' says Jo McGarry, luxury garden design expert at Caragh Nurseries. 'They look fantastic in summer, but once autumn arrives the garden can suddenly feel a bit bare.'

Jo explains that evergreen plants for borders are among the easiest ways to avoid your garden feeling bare by autumn, as they keep their look year-round.

'Better still, many are much tougher than people realise and can cope really well with hot, dry weather once they've had a chance to establish,' she adds.

1. Pyracantha (Firethorn)

Pyracantha offers something in every season. In spring, it's covered in clusters of white flowers that attract pollinators, while autumn and winter bring bright red and orange berries that birds love to munch on. Throughout the year, its glossy evergreen foliage provides valuable structure and colour, explains Lucie Bradley, gardening expert at Easy Garden Irrigation.

According to Lucie, pyracantha is also exceptionally resilient during heatwaves. Its thick, waxy leaves help minimise moisture loss, while its deep root system can access water lower in the soil, allowing established plants to cope well during prolonged dry spells.

Where to buy pyracantha:

• Thompson & Morgan: Enjoy the orange berries and sprays of white flowers of Pyracantha 'Orange Glow', from £11.99.
• Crocus: Or go for this classic red variety – Pyracantha Saphyr Rouge, from £24.99 for a two-litre pot.

2. Euonymus

If you're looking for reliable foliage colour all year, evergreen euonymus is hard to beat. Varieties such as 'Paloma Blanca' (from £24.99 for a two-litre pot, Crocus) produce fresh white new growth that matures to rich green, while 'Emerald 'n' Gold' (from £10.49 at Gardeners Dream) combines vibrant green leaves with golden margins for year-round impact.

Lucie explains that euonymus is equally impressive when temperatures soar. Its leathery foliage resists scorching and helps conserve moisture, while its adaptable root system makes the most of available water, even during drought conditions.

Where to buy euonymus:

• Gardener's Dream: Go for this easy-to-grow white and green Euonymus 'Kathy' from £10.49.
• Crocus: Or go for Euonymus alatus, from £26.99, that puts on an incredible fiery red display in autumn.

3. Ceanothus (California lilac)

Ceanothus combines evergreen foliage with spectacular clouds of blue flowers, depending on the variety, from spring to late summer. It provides valuable structure in winter and one of the most eye-catching floral displays during the growing season.

Native to Mediterranean climates, ceanothus is naturally adapted to hot, dry weather. Lucie says its waxy leaves reduce water loss, while its extensive root system enables established plants to continue thriving during heatwaves.

Where to buy ceanothus:

• Crocus: Add vibrant colour from August until October with Ceanothus 'Autumnal Blue', from £24.99.
• Thompson & Morgan: Or opt for Ceanothus griseus var. horizontalis 'Yankee Point', from £12.99, which has a low spreading habit which makes excellent ground cover.

4. Heather

Heather is another evergreen that offers year-round colour, with varieties featuring green, silver, bronze or golden foliage alongside flowers that appear at different times depending on the cultivar.

Richard Barker, horticultural expert at LBS Horticulture, advises growing heather in free-draining, acidic soil in full sun. Once established, it needs very little attention beyond an annual trim after flowering.

Where to buy heather:

• Gardeners' Dream: You can pick up a lovely mix of different heathers from £17.99.
• Crocus: Or go for a deep pink variety with this Calluna vulgaris 'Dark Beauty', from £8.99.

5. Cistus (Rock rose)

Cistus (or rock roses) is ideal for hot, sunny gardens. While each delicate flower lasts only one day, the shrub produces a continual succession of blooms throughout summer, ensuring weeks of colour alongside evergreen foliage that can develop attractive bronze or purple tones in colder weather.

After the first year, Richard says cistus becomes highly drought-tolerant and requires very little maintenance, making it particularly well suited to modern UK gardens experiencing hotter summers.

Where to buy cistus:

• Thompson & Morgan: For striking borders, try this Cistus x purpurea, £34.99, which provides masses of pink blooms with maroon blotches all summer.
• Crocus: Or go for a pretty white variety with this Cistus × hybridus, £22.99.

Mixing a handful of evergreen shrubs with different flowering times, foliage colours and textures means your garden keeps changing with the seasons, but it never looks empty, explains Jo.

'It's a much more resilient way to garden, especially as we're seeing hotter, drier summers become more common,' she adds.

So there you go! It's possible to create a garden that remains attractive throughout the year while also standing up to increasingly frequent summer heatwaves. Happy planting!

The best relaxing living room features don't just make your space look stylish - they create somewhere you can switch off at the end of a busy day, too. From the furniture you choose to the way you light the room, a few thoughtful touches can make all the difference to how cosy, calm and inviting your living room feels.

I spoke to interior design professionals to find out which relaxing living room features they always include in their projects. Whether it's choosing calming colours for a living room, investing in comfortable seating or layering lighting, these are the design elements they recommend prioritising.

But before you start designing your ideal relaxing living room space, it's worth thinking about exactly how you want the space to work, says John Law, Creative Director at Woodhouse & Law Interior Design. 'Is it somewhere to unwind with a book at the end of the day, entertain friends, or simply switch off from a busy household? Once you understand how the room needs to work, the design decisions become much easier.'

1. Deep, comfortable sofas

A relaxing living room should invite you to put your feet up, so it's not surprising that living room seating - in particular a comfortable sofa - topped every expert's list.

'Comfort always comes first,' believes John. 'We always encourage clients to choose a sofa that feels as good as it looks, with generous proportions and layouts that encourage conversation rather than simply pointing everything at the television. A relaxing room should invite you to settle in, not perch.'

Victoria Robinson, trend expert at Hillarys, adds that deep sofas, oversized cushions and upholstered furniture all contribute to a feeling of comfort and ease. 'If a space is designed around relaxation, seating should be every bit as practical as it is attractive.'

2. Layered lighting

Living room lighting can completely transform not only how your space looks but how it feels. Rather than relying on one overhead fitting, Ally Dowsing-Reynolds, interiors expert and co-founder of Dowsing & Reynolds, recommends layering different light sources to create a softer, more relaxing atmosphere.

'Opt for warm LED bulbs for a cosy glow and a dimmer switch to allow you to control the light easily,' she says. 'A dimmer switch offers flexibility with lighting, allowing you to adjust the intensity to soften the room's edges and create a more visually spacious and relaxed feel.'

John adds that where single ceiling light can make a space feel quite harsh, combining table lamps, floor lamps and discreet wall lights creates a softer atmosphere that changes with the time of day. 'It gives the room a warmth that instantly makes you want to stay in it.'

3. A calming colour palette

When it comes to creating a relaxing living room, living room colours matter as much as comfort.

'Relaxing living rooms tend to draw inspiration from nature,' says Victoria. 'Muted greens, warm neutrals, soft blues and earthy tones create a sense of balance and calm without feeling cold or clinical. These colours are easy to live with and help establish a backdrop that feels restful rather than overstimulating.'

While painting the walls is one option, if you're not ready to redecorate, introducing calming colours through accessories is a much quicker update. 'Opt for warm, colourful shades such as ambers, terracottas through soft furnishings, such as cushions and throws,' suggests Ally.

4. Soft textures and natural materials

The most relaxing living rooms not only look cosy - they feel cosy too. Layering tactile materials throughout the room helps soften the overall look while making the space feel warmer and more inviting.

'A room doesn't always need lots of bold colours or patterns to feel interesting, it's often the mix of natural materials that makes it feel calm and inviting,' says John. 'Linen, wool, wood, stone and beautifully woven fabrics all bring depth in a much quieter way, helping a room feel lived in rather than overly designed.'

Victoria also recommends layering tactile textures throughout the room as a cosy living room idea. 'Textured curtains, woven rugs, wooden furniture, linen cushions and soft throws all add depth and warmth without creating visual clutter,' she says. 'The most calming living rooms aren't necessarily the most trend-led, they're the spaces that feel comfortable, balanced and personal.'

5. Personal touches

A relaxing living room doesn't have to be minimalist, but it should feel intentional.

'Finally, we think the most peaceful interiors are the ones that have been carefully edited,' explains John. 'Giving favourite objects, artwork and books room to breathe creates a sense of order, but it's equally important to surround yourself with pieces that genuinely mean something to you.'

Whether it's artwork collected on your travels, treasured family photographs or a favourite chair you've owned for years, those personal touches create an emotional connection with your home.

As John puts it: 'The most relaxing interiors don't just look beautiful – they feel like a warm embrace, wrapping you in the things you love every time you walk through the door.'

Create a relaxing living room

Creating a calming living room doesn't have to mean completely redesigning your space. Whether you start with a softer lighting scheme, introduce more texture or simply edit your décor, incorporating a few relaxing living room features can make your space calmer, cosier and somewhere you'll genuinely enjoy spending time.

Plunge pools are having a moment, offering a way to enjoy a luxury outdoor feature without sacrificing an entire small garden. As more people look to turn their gardens into a spa, these compact pools are becoming an increasingly popular alternative to a full-sized swimming pool.

If you’re thinking about adding a plunge pool to a small garden, the good news is that they're more achievable than you might think. ‘In a smaller garden, a plunge pool is a realistic way to achieve this aspiration without taking over the whole garden,’ says Alex Kemsley, managing director of Compass Pools by Waterstream.

Plunge pools also pair naturally with other spa-inspired features, like outdoor showers and the growing popularity of ice baths. There are two main types to choose from. Built-in plunge pools are installed into the ground for a seamless, permanent finish, while freestanding plunge pools or swim spas sit above the ground and are generally quicker and easier to install.

Before taking the plunge, we spoke to industry experts to find out what practical factors are worth considering, from installation costs to ongoing maintenance.

1. You don't need a huge garden for a plunge pool to work

A common assumption is that swimming pools only work in large gardens, but plunge pools also work well in surprisingly compact spaces. The key is to be strategic when planning where you want it to go.

Alex Kemsley says a typical plunge pool measures around 3.5m by 2.5m, making it a realistic option for smaller gardens.

'My advice is to design the whole garden at once, rather than dropping the pool into it as an after thought,' he advises. 'Decide where the seating, planting, paths and lighting go, and from the start the pool reads as part of the garden.'

Alex also points out that sliding decks can help you make the most of the same space, allowing you to cover the water and transform it into a small patio when not in use.

The area around the pool deserves just as much attention too, according to Johnny Pearce, Co-Director of Oltco. 'One of the biggest considerations is the surface itself. Pool areas are exposed to constant moisture, so it's important to choose materials that remain safe, durable and visually appealing year-round.'

Johnny recommends choosing a permeable resin-bound surfacing as it allows water to drain naturally through the surface rather than pooling underneath.

2. It's more affordable than a full-size pool – but still an investment

Although a plunge pool is more affordable than a traditional swimming pool, it's still a huge investment, so it's worth budgeting for installation and ongoing maintenance costs before you decide to commit.

'On installation, an average pool tends to sit somewhere between £60,000 to £150,000, but a plunge pool or swim spa is a more economical route at roughly £35,000 to £60,000,' explains Alex.

It is, however, worth bearing in mind that the final figure will depend on size, heating, filtration systems and any additional features you choose.

And if you're wondering about general running costs, one of the advantages of modern plunge pools is that they are designed to be energy efficient.

'Running costs matter less than people expect,' says Alex. 'You can make up to 80% in cost savings versus a concrete pool, and running one can be as low as 80p a day.'

3. They use less water than you might expect

One of the biggest advantages of adding a plunge pool to a small garden rather than a full-sized swimming pool is they don't need as much water.

Alex explains that a typical plunge pool holds between 3,000 - 10,000 litres of water, and he explains that water and energy use heavily factor into homeowners' decision-making when looking to invest in an outdoor pool.

The benefit of a plunge pool is that it uses significantly less water than a traditional full-sized pool, given there’s less volume to fill and maintain,' says Alex.

4. They need less maintenance than you think

Many people worry about the upkeep involved with owning a pool, but plunge pools are one of the most low-maintenance options, and less labour-intensive than you might expect.

Smaller volumes of water means less cleaning and fewer chemicals than a standard pool, especially when paired with modern filtration systems and a decent cover.

'One of the biggest misconceptions around pools is that maintenance is incredibly time-consuming,' says Alex. 'The reality is that plunge pools are smaller and therefore, easier to maintain, especially with today’s modern advancements.'

Johnny also points out that choosing the right materials around the pool can make maintenance easier. 'Resin-bound surfacing provides a durable, weather-resistant solution that requires very little maintenance, keeping the area around the pool looking its best for years to come.'

Adding a plunge pool to a small garden does require careful planning, but it can completely transform your outdoor space into your very own spa-den.

As long as you consider everything from initial costs and maintenance to drainage and how the pool fits into your wider garden, you'll be well on your way to creating a space that's both practical and relaxing.

There are many things you might want to do this summer, but I'm pretty sure that dealing with a bed bug infestation is not one of them.

Unfortunately, pest experts warn that hot weather combined with summer holidays and increased travel can equal the perfect conditions for bed bug outbreaks.

So, how do you avoid bringing bed bugs back from holiday and ensure you and your family stay safe from unwelcome hitchhikers? After all, nobody wants to return from holiday only to have to start googling how to get rid of bed bugs.

I asked professional pest experts to share their advice on how to avoid an 'unexpected infestation' in your home this summer.

Why is summer such a problematic time for bed bug infestations? As James Rhoades, founder of specialist bed bug heat treatment company ThermoPest, explains, 'in colder weather, bed bugs slow down and often slip into a semi-dormant state. However, in high temperatures, they begin feeding again.'

'Warmer surroundings speed up their metabolism, helping them lay eggs faster and move around more frequently,' says James, 'and hotels, guest houses, and short-term rentals can become hotspots for bed bugs.'

Unfortunately, if you do knowingly or unknowingly encounter bed bugs on holiday, then, as James says, 'they can easily be brought back from holiday hidden in suitcases or laundry, if they've been placed on bedding, soft furnishings or carpet in a bed bug infested room.

Once in your home, 'bed bugs spread quickly,' says James, which can soon lead to an unexpected infestation. That's why 'early detection and prevention are key.'

This is everything you need to know to avoid bed bugs on holiday, and, most importantly, to protect your home on your return.

How to avoid bringing bed bugs back from holiday

1. Choose your luggage wisely

According to our experts, bed bug prevention begins before we even begin our summer travels, and one of the most important things to consider is your luggage.

That's because 'bed bugs can crawl into your luggage, clothing and other personal items, and you can bring them home without even knowing,' explains Mihail Velev, pest control technician at Fantastic Pest Control.

However, luckily some expert knowledge can help here. 'Bed bugs find it harder to climb onto hard surfaces, so opt for hard-case luggage rather than a fabric one,' advises James.

You might also want to pick a light-coloured plastic suitcase, says Mihail. 'Bed bugs are less attracted to plastic, and the lighter colour makes them easier to spot.'

2. Do a thorough inspection of your hotel room

Next up, our experts recommend having a 'bed bug prevention' plan in place for arrival at your holiday accommodation. And as Mihail warns, don't assume that just because your accommodation looks well-maintained, you don't still need to be cautious.

'It’s false to assume that bed bug infestations only happen to dirty properties,' says Mihail. 'Many luxurious hotels get infested by these pests, and they can be found in well-maintained homes as well as in dirty ones.'

Best practice means 'not placing your luggage on the bed as soon as you arrive,' says James. 'First, inspect the mattress by pulling back the sheets and checking the seams and corners for dark spots. Also check the headboard and any upholstered furniture for telltale signs of bed bugs such as tiny rust-coloured spots or shed skins.'

'If you suspect bed bugs or an infestation, request a new room immediately, ideally as far away from the affected area as possible,' says James.

3. Protect your luggage

Then, protect your luggage from unwanted intruders throughout your trip. 'Luggage is the easiest way to bring bed bugs home, especially after being in a confined space,' says James.

Instead of placing your luggage on the floor, bed, or an upholstered chair where bed bugs might be hiding, 'store it on a metal rack,' advises James. 'Bed bugs struggle to climb smooth surfaces.'

No metal luggage rack in the room? Then consider 'placing your belongings on a tile floor away from any upholstered furniture,' advises Mihail. The bathroom can be a good option here.

Then, throughout your holiday, 'if possible, keep your luggage closed or zipped up at all times,' says James, 'or use large plastic bags to seal your luggage throughout your stay.'

4. Protect clothing during your trip

Next up, protect your clothing during your stay. 'It’s common for bed bugs to easily hide in your clothes, so it’s especially important to protect your clothes when travelling, even the clothes you travelled in,' says James.

'Bed bugs tend to gravitate towards the scent of humans, so keep your worn/dirty clothes in a separate plastic bag until you can wash them.'

'Don’t leave your clothes out, especially if you suspect bed bugs; try keeping them in vacuum-sealed bags during your trip to prevent them from getting in.'

5. Check your luggage upon return home

'Coming home is when bed bugs often make their way into your living space,' warns James. To avoid this, 'unpack everything, directly into the washing machine and run a hot wash.'

'Wash all your clothes and fabric items in hot water, regardless of whether you’ve used them or not,' agrees Mihail.

'Then, visually inspect your suitcase inside and out, paying close attention to pockets, seams, and linings for any signs of bed bugs such as dark spots, shed skins, or live insects,' says James.

'If you travel frequently, making this a routine step can help you spot potential issues early before they spread.'

6. Reduce hiding spots in the bedroom

It can also be useful to take preventative measures once you return home, that way any unwelcome hitch hikers can be easily spotted.

'Bed bugs like to stay hidden during the day and emerge at night to feed,' explains James. 'The more cluttered your sleeping area is, the more places they have to conceal themselves.'

'Keep floors, bedside tables, and the space around your bed clear of excess items to make it harder for them to find shelter,' advises James.

7. Wash bedding regularly

You might also want to up your bedding washing schedule for the first few weeks after your trip away, and if you can, use a hotter wash than normal.

'Heat is one of the most effective ways to kill bed bugs at every stage of life, from eggs to adults,' explains James.

'If you suspect an issue, make sure to wash your bedding regularly at 60°C or higher and follow with a hot tumble dry. This ensures that any insects or eggs clinging to the fabric are destroyed.'

For items that can't be washed, steam cleaning can also kill bed bugs that might be lurking inside.

Follow our experts' top tips, and you'll be able to enjoy your summer travels without bed bugs ruining the holiday vibes.

Looking after our gardens during this summer’s exceptionally hot weather has been a challenge. And with hosepipe bans in place throughout much of the country, it’s difficult to know what to do for the best when your garden is up against it, and water is in short supply.

So I asked a team of gardening experts if there is anything we can be doing to help our gardens survive the high temperatures (while still conserving water) plus what water-saving habits it would have been wise to adopt before this summer’s hot weather hit.

‘Creating a garden that needs less watering starts long before the hosepipe comes out,’ says Peter Chaloner, Managing Director at Cobra. ‘The most effective approach is to build resilience into your lawn and planting scheme from the ground up, rather than reacting when dry weather arrives.’

So, what water-saving habits do the experts recommend to help make our gardens more drought-tolerant this summer (and in future summers)...find out all below.

1. Harvest rainwater ahead of hot weather

This summer has been exceptionally hot and dry, with much of the country facing drought and hosepipe bans. But if we cast our minds back to the wet and rainy winter months, this is when we really should have been thinking about our summer gardens and conserving the rainwater when it was plentiful, say the experts.

‘Harvesting rainwater is an eco-friendly way of reusing water in the garden, rather than always reaching for the hosepipe,’ says Chris Bonnett, founder of Gardening Express. ‘But filling up your water butt before the hot weather arrives is vital, which means getting a water butt before the rainy season to ensure you're ready to collect rainwater throughout the wetter months.’

‘Installing a water butt is one of the easiest ways to collect rainwater during the wetter months and build up a reserve before a heatwave strikes,’ agrees Shelley Davis, flower expert at Flying Flowers. ‘Rainwater is actually better for plants than treated tap water because it is free of chemicals and less alkaline, making it ideal for thirsty borders and potted plants.’

‘By tapping into this stored rainwater when dry spells hit, you can keep your garden flourishing without putting extra pressure on the mains supply or worrying about hosepipe bans.’

‘You can also start collecting ‘grey water’ – recycled water from your sink, shower, or washing machine – ahead of hot weather,’ adds Shelley. ‘So long as you use eco-friendly, bleach-free soaps, it’s a brilliant, hose-free way to keep your garden hydrated when temperatures peak.’

Shop for water butts

2. Water well, not often

‘When it comes to saving water, the trick is to water well, not often,’ advises Julian Palphramand, Head of Plants at British Garden Centres. ‘A deep soak at the base of the plant first thing in the morning is far more effective than a quick splash in the heat of the day, because it gets moisture down to the roots before it evaporates. And with hosepipe bans in effect, a watering can is best to use.’

‘Watering during the cooler parts of the day, such as early morning or later in the evening, is something everyone should be doing in summer,’ agrees Chris. ‘If you water during the peak heat, most of the moisture will likely evaporate before it reaches the roots, making watering far less efficient. Watering less often but more thoroughly encourages deeper root growth, helping plants become more resilient during hot, dry weather.’

‘Installing a slow-release watering system next to plants and trees is a great way of keeping them hydrated,’ suggests Shelley. ‘Drilling a small hole into the bottom of a bucket or buying a water irrigation system allows water to slowly seep into the soil over hours instead of running straight off the dry top surface.’

3. Water less by planting smarter

‘As our summers become warmer and periods of dry weather become more frequent, choosing the right plants is just as important as how you water them,’ says Charlotte McGrattan, Hardy Nursery Stock Buyer at Hillier Garden Centres. ‘One of the biggest misconceptions is that saving water is simply about watering less. In reality, it’s about planting smarter.’

‘Choosing resilient plants that naturally thrive in drier conditions, such as agave, echinops and eryngium, is a simple way to create a beautiful garden that requires less watering. Once established, drought-tolerant plants like these will need far less watering than traditional bedding schemes, making them a practical choice for increasingly hot UK summers.’

‘If you live in an area that is often generally drier or have a purely south-facing garden, adapting your planting to include more Mediterranean varieties that are more resilient to drought conditions and require less watering during hot weather spells is wise,’ agrees Shelley.

4. Arrange planting strategically to retain moisture

‘Clustering your container plants together is another smart habit to adopt ahead of a heatwave,’ advises Shelley. ‘Potted plants dry out much faster than garden beds, but grouping them tightly creates a cool microclimate where the plants shade one another and trap surrounding moisture. This shared humidity dramatically slows down evaporation from the soil, keeping your pots hydrated longer and saving you from having to water them as frequently when temperatures soar.’

‘How you arrange planting in flower beds and garden borders can also make just as much difference as choice of plants and how often you water them,’ advises Charlotte. ‘Positioning taller shrubs and structural plants to cast light shade over lower-growing varieties helps keep the soil cooler, reduces evaporation and protects plants from the hottest part of the day. Combined with drought-tolerant planting, this creates a garden that’s naturally more resilient, uses less water and continues to thrive through increasingly warm, dry summers.’

5. Let the lawn grow longer to build up resilience

‘Letting your grass grow a bit longer in the weeks leading up to a heatwave is a simple, low-effort way to salvage water,’ says Shelley. ‘Taller grass blades shade the soil beneath them, which slows down evaporation and helps the roots retain previous moisture deep in the ground.’

‘Resisting the urge to mow too short keeps the grass resilient, meaning you won’t need to spend extra water keeping your lawn alive when hot, dry weather hits,’ adds Shelley.

‘The most effective approach is to build resilience into your lawn from the ground up, rather than reacting when dry weather arrives,’ agrees Peter at Cobra. ‘A healthy, well-maintained lawn develops deeper, stronger roots that are naturally better equipped to access moisture below the surface, helping it stay greener for longer during periods of low rainfall.’

‘During hot weather, simple lawn care preventative practices such as keeping mower blades sharp and avoiding cutting the grass too short all help to reduce stress and improve drought tolerance. Leaving the grass slightly longer during warm weather also shades the soil, slowing evaporation and helping retain valuable moisture.’

6. Improve soil health to reduce the need for frequent watering

‘​​One of the most effective ways to create a water-wise garden is to focus on improving the soil rather than simply watering more,’ says Matt J. Adams, founder and lead gardener at The Relentless Gardener. ‘Healthy soil that’s rich in organic matter, such as well-rotted farmyard manure, acts like a sponge, absorbing rainfall when it arrives and holding onto moisture for much longer. This means plants have access to water over an extended period, reducing the need for frequent watering during dry spells while also encouraging stronger, deeper root systems that are naturally more drought-tolerant.’

‘Adding organic matter to borders every year is one of the simplest changes you can make. Products such as Blooms Booster, from £9.50, The Relentless Gardener, make this easy, feeding plants while improving the soil’s ability to retain moisture due to the 25% liquid seaweed contained within it.’

‘Mulching around plants before hot weather sets in is another great way to help retain moisture in the soil,’ agrees Chris. ‘You can use things like bark, woodchips and straw. These materials help to reduce evaporation and keep the ground from drying out as quickly during periods of heat.’

‘Mulch is worth its weight in gold in hot weather,’ agrees Julian. ‘It helps the soil hold onto moisture for longer and keeps the roots cooler.’

Shop for mulch

7. Feed regularly to make plants more resilient

‘Hot weather can affect how efficiently plants absorb and use nutrients, making regular feeding particularly important throughout the summer months,’ says Angharad James, Brand Manager at Maxicrop. ‘When growing vegetable crops and fruiting plants such as tomatoes, they are especially vulnerable, as they require a steady supply of nutrients to support healthy growth and crop production.’

‘Feeds that combine nutrition with natural seaweed extract can help support both plant growth and resilience, like this Maxicrop All Purpose Liquid Vegetable growth stimulant & feed, £13.50 at B&Q, that helps maintain healthy growth and productive harvests, while Maxicrop Tomato Growth Stimulant & Feed, £14.99 at Amazon, provides the additional potash needed to support flowering, fruit development and crop quality. Maintaining a consistent feeding routine can help plants stay healthier and recover more quickly after periods of extreme heat.’

How is your garden faring in the hot weather? Let us know what water-saving tips you swear by.

This summer has been a test on the majority of our homes. Unlike previous heatwaves which can be over in a few days, the prolonged 35+º heat for weeks on end really has been something else.

However, without the infrastructure to cool our homes, we’re all stuck with the windows closed and the curtains drawn during the day to keep the hot air outside and the solar gain to a minimum. These passive cooling strategies have been tried and tested for centuries and are a good way to keep energy usage down while limiting the use fans or air conditioners. But, in a prolonged heatwave like we've seen this summer, saving energy and keeping your house cool can also mean it feels like you live in the dark.

While my house has certain features that help it feel cool in the summer, it can still get really hot when a heatwave hits. As I work from home, I've had to keep the curtains closed to maintain a comfortable temperature, but I’ve also tried to come up with ways to make our living spaces feel brighter and less cave like.

1. I use bamboo blinds for dappled light

We have a downstairs bathroom that thankfully faces north. Now, normally we wouldn’t think twice about this space getting too hot, but with the lengthy heatwave, I’ve found having our bamboo blinds closed during this time still lets in a good amount of light. Certainly enough to put on makeup without looking like a clown!

This makes absolute sense, especially when you consider countries like China, Indonesia and India have all been using bamboo to shade their interior spaces for centuries. And as our climate is warming up for what looks to be the foreseeable, we should be taking note of how traditionally hotter regions mitigate overheating.

Ours were really cost efficient as they were a last-minute purchase after our bathroom was finished, but I wish I had researched ones that were treated for moisture as ours are now looking a bit worse for wear from the room's humidity.

Thermal blinds with a honeycomb weave have become a much recommended product to allow light, but not heat into a shaded room. 'Slatted blinds and shutters are also particularly useful because they can be angled upwards, ' adds Caroline Montague at Villa Sartiano. 'That blocks the direct beam but still sends some daylight towards the ceiling, which gives the room a much softer brightness.'

2. I added voile curtains for diffused light

To diffuse harsher sunlight, we use voile curtains alongside thicker ones for nighttime in our bedroom. Now, I know they have a bad rep from our nans’ houses where net curtains made every room feel gloomy and dated, but there are some gorgeous modern designs to be found that bring a more Parisian elegance to this fabric.

The game-changer for us when it is hot, is that we bought thermal voile curtains so the rate at white the indoor temperature rises is slowed down. This also works the opposite way in the winter.

3. I track the sun’s progression over my house

One of the first things we did when we moved into our house was to take note of where the sun begins its day and where it is positioned at the hottest parts. At the time it was to plan our renovation, but I have found it super useful so we can open and close curtains when I know the sun has moved round.

'After more than 30 years of designing homes, one thing I have learnt is that a house rarely overheats evenly,' explains Caroline Montague 'Follow the sun around the building rather than closing everything at once. An east-facing room may need its curtains drawn early in the morning, while a west-facing room often becomes much hotter later in the afternoon.'

A basic timeline would look like this:

• 7am: West and south-facing curtains open, east-facing closed
• 12pm: East and west open, south closed
• 3pm: West and south closed, east open

I generally don’t worry about our north-facing window as this is a great source of constant diffused light.

4. I'm strategic about the positioning of mirrors

Having the curtains closed all of the time can really affect the mood of the house and too much artificial light can serve to make a space feel dour, especially when overhead lights and table lamps are on during the day while working from home.

'The key is to control how daylight enters and bounces around the room,' says Chloe Barrow, Head of Creative Interiors at Laura James. 'I would avoid placing mirrors directly opposite sunny windows during a heatwave, as they simply bounce the heat deeper into the house. It’s better to place them on perpendicular side walls to catch ambient light, without bringing the heat in.'

Using the pattern from the point above, you can do what we do and strategically place mirrors to reflect the light into rooms that are currently shaded. For instance, the north-facing light of our utility is near a large mirror in the otherwise dark hallway. It allows the light to bound around the space and make it feel much less gloomy.

5. I combine internal measures with external shading

Now, if having your curtains closed during the day is simply too much for you to take, external shading might be a better option. Although this isn’t my first port-of-call, I get it; we spend all year waiting for warm and sunny days and the last thing you want to do is shut yourself away from it all.

So, if you really want to have the curtains open during they day, look to what you can do to the exterior of your house to prevent overheating. One such element we love in for our west-facing patio door that don’t have curtains or blinds is to use natural planting either side of the doors.

Sail shades can also be installed so come light passes through, but the harsh direct sun is diluted a bit. Retractable awnings work much the same, but you can also get mini versions for above windows. This is especially good for home offices.

'Awnings are a brilliant investment as they stop heat before it even hits the glass, without making the room look dark and dreary,' says Chloe Barrow. 'You’re still getting a lot of light, but less heat.'

If there’s one fertiliser I’ll buy every year for my tomatoes and, surprisingly, other plants in the garden as well, it’s this: Levington Tomorite.

You can buy a one-litre bottle of Levington Tomorite Concentrated Tomato Food for just £3.99 from Amazon, which is an absolute steal for a bestselling fertiliser that can encourage a bumper crop. If you’re growing your own tomatoes, it’s a staple – but those aren’t the only plants that benefit from it.

Whether you’ve got some leftover Tomorite in the shed or you’re looking for an affordable feed that can be used across the garden, here’s why I recommend Levington’s top-rated fertiliser.

At this stage in the year, you’ll probably be looking for the best fertiliser for ripening tomatoes. I always return to Levington Tomorite, a seaweed-enriched formula that encourages lots and lots of delicious harvests. Levington says it can give you 50% more tomatoes, and bolster your plants’ defences against pests and diseases, too.

Levington Tomorite is a concentrated feed, so you’ll need to dilute it with water first. It's as simple as filling the inner ring of the bottle cap to the top, emptying it into a watering can, repeating that twice more so you have three measures in total, and then adding nine litres of water to the watering can.

It’s labelled as a concentrated tomato food, and the signature packaging is tomato-themed, but it’s so much more than a fertiliser for your toms alone.

‘Tomorite is a brilliant fertiliser that can be used on more than just tomatoes,’ says Nick Wood, horticulturist at GardeningExpress.co.uk. ‘Plants which enjoy similar growing conditions, such as peppers, courgettes, cucumbers and chillies, will all benefit from Tomorite because it’s high in potassium.’

It’s one of the most effective fertilisers for plants that produce fruits and blooms, thanks to that potassium-favoured ratio.

‘The benefit is straightforward: it supports strong flowering and fruiting, so it’s useful for any hungry crop that needs a bit more help during active growth, rather than just tomatoes alone,’ explains Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

If you aren't growing any fruit or vegetables, it's likely that some of your flowering plants fit the bill.

'Flowering plants like roses, dahlias, sweet peas and geraniums can also benefit from Tomorite,' says Nick. 'Its high potassium content supports flower production and helps promote strong, healthy blooms.'

So, it might be worth adding feed with Tomorite to your list of August dahlia tasks!

Other top-rated fertilisers

Who knew Levington Tomorite could be used on so many other plants? At such a great price, it's well worth keeping a bottle in the shed. As with many other garden products, keep it well away from pets and children.

August is here, and with it comes a gardening job that's going to give you more beautiful plants without costing a penny.

'This month is one of the better times to lift and split certain perennials, especially anything that has become congested or is flowering less freely than it used to,' says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

There are some other great reasons to divide plants this month too – it stops overcrowding and gives tired varieties a new lease of life, and doing it this month ensures the ground is still warm enough for the plants to get established before winter. We look at which plants you should start dividing below and how.

1. Irises

'Irises are the obvious one and respond well to being divided once they’ve finished flowering and before growth slows down,' Julian adds.

So what's the best way to do it? 'Always pick a cool day,' advises Julian, 'Replant straight away and water them properly afterwards. It’s really about giving the plant room to breathe again; if a perennial has started to suffer, that’s often your cue.'

If you love irises, then there are some lovely colours to choose from. First up that we love is Iris Orange Harvest, from £9.99 at Thompson & Morgan, and it's guaranteed to flower in the first year.

The Beverly Sills variety is a stunner too, with its delicate coral pink flowers, from £4.99 at J.Parkers.

2. Lady's Mantle

This is one variety that most of us love with its vibrant lime green flowers and distinct look. We asked Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation, about how to divide it.

'The best time to divide is when the centre of the clumps becomes old and woody, and there are fewer blooms. Dividing it will refresh it and prevent the older middle section from dying. Use a spade or fork to dig about 5 to 7cm deep around the base of the plant and carefully lift the root ball from the ground, using the foliage to help handle it from the ground.'

Once you've lifted it out, shake off the excess soil and trim back the foliage, removing old flower stems and cutting back the older, larger leaves, but keep the younger ones, says Lucie. 'This helps when it has been divided and replanted to concentrate its energy on establishing its root system and helps reduce water loss through the foliage. Then cut through the root ball and divide it into sections and replant immediately.'

Lady's Mantle is a great perennial for its colour and coverage. You can buy it in one litre pots for £7.99 from Gardening Express.

Shopping essentials

3. Hostas

Hostas are an eye-catching variety, and they can get to the point where they need to be divided. This stops them from spreading and allows you to propagate the new plants.

If the centre of your clump is looking a bit tired and the plant is too crowded, these are your signs. They are prone to outgrowing the position you originally planted them in and should be divided between year three and year five.

How do you divide hostas? If the hosta is small, you can divide by hand; if not, then find a central point and simply cut through with a knife, remove any damaged foliage and give them a drink in a bucket of water before replanting.

J.Parkers sells a hosta mix, pack of five first-grade loose roots for £7.99, or check out the hosta patriot plantain lily from Amazon, £10.99 for a 9cm pot; it's a more traditional-looking variety.

4. Daylilies

Daylilies are kind of what their name suggests – they only last for 24 hours; they are also tough cookies, and their blooms are edible.

Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture, explains, 'Daylilies can be divided in early spring or late summer once they have finished flowering. Use a spade to lift clumps out of the ground, and select young growth from around the edges of the clump. Try to break off crowns by hand, ensuring each has roots and shoots.'

When you replant, make sure you fork the soil around each one and give them a good water.

If you like the idea of daylilies, you can buy them in various pretty colours. Crocus's Hemerocallis collection consists of three bare roots, £23.95, and you get Strawberry Candy, Canadian Border Patrol and Olive Bailey Langdon.

Suttons sell three featuring yellow, red and orange varieties called Stella Trio for £19.99, and you get 9cm potted plants ready to be planted.

5. Oriental poppies

Poppies bring so much joy, and they create a fabulous statement from late spring to early summer – and they are quite consistent for around five years.

'Once your plants are over 5 years old, they are likely to be past their peak, with clumps becoming large and woody,' explains Lucie. 'At this age it’s worth dividing up your poppies, and August is the perfect time as they are coming to the end of their summer dormancy and new green basal foliage will start to be produced as temperatures cool.'

Poppies have long tap roots that can each 30cm or deeper into the ground; this means they can be challenging to divide.

'To avoid damaging these long roots, you will need to carefully dig a wide, deep circle around the perennial so that you can lift out the entire root ball, as damaging the tap roots can cause new divided plants to fail. Once you have successfully removed the roots from the ground, use a clean, sharp knife or pruning shears to cut vertically through the roots, making sure to include one ‘eye’ and a piece of tap root in each divided part,' says Lucie.

Make sure you've pre-prepared where they're going as the roots can dry out quickly.
You can buy three bare root plants, each a different variety of oriental poppies from Dobies for £16.49 (currently on offer). The varieties are Beauty of Livermore, Victoria Louise and Queen Alexandra.

For a single variety, check out Farmer Gracy's Perry's White, which is simply stunning and is priced at £5.90 for one bare root.

Go and have a walk around your garden to see if the varieties mentioned above are looking a little crowded, if so, have a go at dividing them and good luck!

Cluttered living rooms aren’t something most of us strive for, and yet it’s often the reality we face. If you feel like you’re waging a daily battle against living room chaos, it might be your layout - rather than your decluttering skills - causing the problem.

The layout mistakes that are making your living room feel messy are easily avoided, once you know what they are. Living room layout rules can lay the groundwork but you’ll still need to correct any unwitting mistakes you’ve made in the past.

With that in mind, I asked interior design experts to share the layout mistakes that wind up creating a messy living room. Heed their advice and before you know it, your living room chaos will be gone and a calming oasis will be left behind.

1. Putting all the furniture against the walls

For small living rooms, pushing the furniture against the walls might seem like a smart choice. But according to Jess Barrett, the interior designer behind Jessica Simone Designs, the opposite is true.

'Pushing every piece of furniture against the walls feels like it should create more space, but it often leaves an empty void in the centre of the room and disconnects the seating,' she explains. We’re then more likely to fill that empty space with things a small living room doesn’t need, leading to more mess and clutter.

'Instead, try bringing furniture in slightly, even by just a few centimetres,' Jess advises. 'This makes the room feel intentional rather than like everything has been spread around the perimeter.'

2. Cramming too much in

On the topic of filling empty space, one of the top living room layout mistakes we can make - especially in smaller spaces - is squeezing too much in. A good living room layout will always have a bit of a breathing space; put too much in and you risk making a small living room feel unwelcome.

'If you're constantly walking around coffee tables, squeezing past armchairs or weaving through furniture to reach another part of the room, the layout isn't supporting the way you actually live,' Jess says. 'Good design should feel effortless.'

Have a think about how you actually use your living room and what seating you need. If you can take something out, do it - the space will feel instantly calmer.

3. Choosing furniture that's out of proportion

While the placement of furniture is the key consideration in a living room layout, the scale of it should be a close second. And if our living rooms often feel messy, we've likely chosen pieces that are too big for the space, says Kris Manalo, Head of Design at Atkin and Thyme.

'An oversized sofa can quite easily overpower a room and make it feel smaller than it is, by taking up too much floor space and making the other components in the room feel cramped and confined,' Kris explains. 'Bigger doesn't always mean better, and just because you can squeeze a large sofa into the room doesn’t mean you should.'

By combining a smaller sofa with an armchair or loveseat, we can open up the space and still enjoy seating that is practical. It will likely make a big difference to how messy the space feels.

4. Using a rug incorrectly

The last layout mistake that can make a living room feel messy comes from the ground up. According to Kris, the placement of a rug - as well as the size and design - can make or break how calm a living room feels.

'So many people choose the wrong-sized rug for their living room, and usually they opt for something that is too small for the space,' she says. 'Placing a small rug in the middle of the living room can completely distort the visual flow, making the space feel cluttered and disjointed.'

The 18-inch rule for rugs is a good alternative: make sure your rug leaves around 18 inches of bare floor space between the edge of the rug and the walls of the room. Interior designers swear by this rule for creating a balanced, harmonious living space.

Add calm to a living

If you correct these layout mistakes, your living room will instantly feel calmer - and who doesn't want that?

One early evening last week, I looked out onto my patio, and I genuinely thought that something had gone very, very wrong.

Hundreds of flying ants (I'm not exaggerating) had suddenly appeared, swirling around in what looked like complete chaos. My husband and I stood staring at it, trying to figure out what on earth was happening. Our first instinct was to just run in and shut the door, as we had no intention of letting them continue the party inside the house.

We were convinced there had to be a reason they'd chosen our patio. Had we left food out or were they attracted to something we'd done in the garden? It all seemed a bit bizarre, so naturally, I did what I usually do and googled it.

I found out that what I had just witnessed wasn't actually an insect invasion, since there wasn't anything to draw them to that area. And what we'd stumbled across was actually one of nature's annual events. It's something called the nuptial flight.

So I asked experts for some more information on it, so if you come across clouds of flying ants yourself, you'll know what it is and whether there's a need to panic as I did (understandably so if you look at what we witnessed below).

According to Mosh Latifi, co-owner of EcoCare Pest Management, what I witnessed was completely normal.

'What you witnessed is one of nature's most spectacular annual events. The nuptial flight is the moment when the black garden ant colony releases its winged reproductive ants, the queens and males, to mate in the air,' he explains.

'Multiple colonies in the same area respond to the same weather trigger simultaneously, which is why it looks like the ants have appeared from everywhere at once. It can genuinely feel alarming if you do not know what it is, but it is completely natural and typically lasts only a few hours to a day.'

I'd also assumed they had flown into our garden from elsewhere, but, according to Mosh, the reality was quite literally much closer to home.

'Paved surfaces such as patios and driveways absorb and retain heat, creating warm thermal pockets above them that flying ants actively seek out for their nuptial flights. If you have ant colonies established beneath or around your patio slabs, those are almost certainly the source. The ants emerge through the gaps between slabs rather than flying in from elsewhere, which is why it can look like they appeared from nowhere.'

And the timing wasn't a coincidence either, according to Daniel Steward from Shield Pest Control. 'Flying ants are most commonly seen during warm and humid spells, typically between July and August in the UK. Many people refer to 'Flying Ant Day ', but it's not usually a single day. Different colonies can emerge over several days or even weeks depending on weather conditions. Warm temperatures followed by rain or humid air create the ideal conditions for swarms to appear.'

Mosh adds that the weather is the key trigger. 'The trigger is a very specific combination of weather conditions: warm temperatures, high humidity and calm air, usually following a period of rain. This is why it tends to happen on muggy, overcast days, rather than the brightest summer days. When those conditions align, colonies across a wide area release their flying ants almost simultaneously. After mating in the air, the males die and the fertilised queens land, shed their wings and attempt to start new colonies underground.'

The good news is that if you do experience this, there's very little you actually need to do.

'The nuptial flight itself is a one-off event and will pass on its own within hours, so trying to intervene in the moment is usually more trouble than it's worth,' says Mosh. For the longer term, keeping patio joints well-filled with polymeric jointing sand (like this Rhino Power Bond Plus, £59.95 at Amazon) removes the entry and exit points that ants use, which reduces how many colonies can establish beneath your paving.'

Peppermint oil (this 100ml bottle is perfect, from Amazon) sprayed around the patio perimeter is a deterrent to foraging ants throughout the season and makes the area less hospitable for colony establishment in the first place.'

Daniel also recommends focusing on prevention rather than reacting once the swarm has started.

'Flying ants are also attracted to food residue and moisture, so keeping kitchens clean, wiping away sugary spills quickly and fixing leaks or damp areas can help make properties less appealing to them. Outdoors, keeping bins sealed and removing excess food waste from patios and outdoor dining areas can also reduce attraction.'

'For those looking for natural deterrents, diluted vinegar sprays (like Miniml white vinegar spray from Amazon) or soapy water can help disrupt ant scent trails around entry points such as windowsills, door frames and patios. Strong-smelling scents such as peppermint and citrus can also help discourage ants from settling in certain areas, although these solutions usually need regular reapplication during warmer weather.'

Shop ant repellents for patios

However, he adds that if you notice 'persistent ant activity indoors or large numbers emerging from walls, flooring or brickwork, it may indicate a nest close to the property. In these cases, it's best to contact a professional pest specialist, who can safely identify the source of the infestation and recommend the most effective long-term treatment.'

Thankfully, in our case, the swarm disappeared almost as quickly as it arrived. They were partied out by later that evening.

So there you have it! Now that I know what nuptial flight is, I won't be as freaked out if it happens again.

So if you suddenly find yourself fleeing from your patio because hundreds of flying ants have just descended, there's no need to fear. It's just a strange summer spectacle that looks dramatic, but is actually completely normal.

And... breathe....

We might be nearing the end of summer, but that doesn’t mean your plants’ glory days are over. In fact, there are some plants you can cut back in August for an extra flush of flowers.

Perennials, specifically. They rank high on a list of plants to prune in August, because they respond really well to a trim at this time of the year. Cutting them back could even reward you with a bonus round of blooms, according to experts.

‘August is the point when many gardens begin to look slightly tired, but cutting the right plants back can encourage a completely fresh flush of foliage and flowers,’ says Jane Westoby, creative director at The Hampshire Seed Company. ‘The key is to cut decisively rather than simply removing the occasional faded bloom.

Below, you’ll find a few examples of plants to cut back in August for an extra flush of flowers.

What you'll need

1. Hardy geraniums

As the name would have it, hardy geraniums are tough perennials that produce lots and lots of pretty blooms. They’re also fantastic ground cover plants that can block weeds, but this late in the season, they’ll likely be starting to look a little messy. That’s where a pair of snips will come in handy – and even encourage extra flowers.

‘Hardy geraniums can become sprawling and untidy after their first flowering,’ says Jane. ‘Cut the stems and tired foliage back close to the base, water them thoroughly, and they will usually produce fresh leaves followed by another flush of flowers.’

If you’re looking for the best secateurs for the job, it’s worth going for bypass secateurs, which are better suited to cleanly cutting the stems. These Spear & Jackson Razorsharp Advantage Bypass Secateurs are just £10.95 at Amazon, and one of my favourite pairs to date.

2. Lady's mantle

Lady’s mantle, or Alchemilla mollis, is one of the best cottage garden plants for pots, because it's so pretty. It's another perennial that responds well to light pruning in late summer.

‘In August, the perennials worth cutting back are the ones that have finished their first flower flush and are willing to repeat,’ says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. ‘Lady’s mantle will often respond well to a trim, especially if you remove spent flower stems and any tired growth.’

If you want to use a premium pair of snips, the Niwaki Garden Snips are the best I’ve tried.

3. Penstemons

Penstemons benefit from a trim in August as well, but they're best treated lightly if you want them to survive the colder months. A compact pair of snips like these Kent & Stowe Garden Life Pruning Snips from B&Q are ideal for smaller tasks.

'Keep removing faded flower stems, cutting back to a healthy sideshoot rather than trimming the whole plant indiscriminately,' advises Jane. 'This encourages more flowers while leaving enough protective growth on the plant for winter.'

It's almost time to take cuttings from your penstemons, too, since they're one of the best plants you can propagate in September.

4. Delphiniums

You don't have to say goodbye to those stately flower spikes just yet – according to Julian, delphiniums are another plant you should cut back in August for an extra flush of flowers.

'A light cut-back now can tidy the plant and encourage fresh growth that may carry a second round of flowers later in the season,' he says.

Aftercare is just as important as the pruning task itself, and it'll determine how well your plants recover.

'One important caveat is that plants need water to regrow,' explains Jane. 'Cutting them back during very hot or dry weather without watering them afterwards can place them under even more stress. A thorough soak is often more useful than immediately adding fertiliser.'

5. Catmint

Catmint is a beautiful perennial, and it's also a low-maintenance flowering plant that can keep mosquitoes at bay. To encourage the plant to flower again, it's worth cutting it back hard in August.

'Once catmint begins to flop and fade, shear the whole plant back rather than deadheading individual stems,' advises Jane. 'Give it a good drink afterwards and it should quickly form a neat mound of fresh growth and more flowers.'

I also rate the WOLF-Garten Bypass Secateurs, available at Amazon, if you're looking for a sturdy pair of pruners.

6. Perennial salvias

Last but not least, perennial salvias also benefit from a trim in August – especially if you want them to flower for the remainder of the growing season. If you're wondering how to prune salvias at this time of the year, it's best to take a lighter approach.

'Remove faded flower stems by cutting them back to a healthy pair of leaves or a sideshoot lower down the stem,' says Jane. 'Regular cutting prevents the plants putting energy into seed production and can keep many salvias flowering well into autumn.'

Cut these plants back in August for a bonus round of blooms. It's a task worth doing!

We're in the peak of summer right now, and if you have agapanthus growing in your garden, it will be looking its best, despite the unseasonably hot weather. Agapanthus look stunning in full bloom with their striking blue flowers, long stems and lush foliage and if you’re wondering how to keep yours looking its best for longer, the good news is that when it comes to what to do with agapanthus in August, the answer is ‘not a lot’...which is a relief considering the heatwave and hosepipe bans that many of us are under at the moment.

‘August is really all about keeping agapanthus neat and not pushing them to do more than they already are,’ says Julian Palphramand, Head of Plants at British Garden Centres. ‘During August it’s mainly a matter of deadheading agapanthus flowers as they fade, plus keeping on top of watering. Do both of these (and hold off on doing other tasks), and you’ll keep the plant looking fresher for longer.’

Find out which jobs you should be doing right now and what jobs you don’t need to be worrying about below.

1. Deadhead faded booms but don't cut back the foliage

‘To keep your agapanthus looking healthy and blooming for as long as possible, once the flower head has completely faded, use clean, sharp secateurs or snips to remove the entire flowering stem,’ advises Craig Wilson, Co-founder and gardening expert at Gardeners Dream.

‘Follow the stem down and cut it off low at the base, just above where it emerges from the clump, taking care not to damage the crown or surrounding foliage. When deadheading, make sure to keep any healthy, green leaves on the plant as these are needed to absorb sunlight to help feed the roots, which helps direct energy toward continued flowering.'

When it comes to what to do with agapanthus after flowering, when the summer months are over, this will involve cutting back both flowers and foliage, but won't need to be tackled until autumn once plants have fully finished flowering.

Shop for deadheading essentials

2. Water consistently but don’t overwater

‘Aside from when to deadhead agapanthus, you also need to water them regularly throughout the last few weeks of the summer season,’ says Craig. ‘This will help to keep your plant healthy and encourage some last-minute blooms before the plant is ready for budding next year.’

‘I would advise watering your agapanthus around once or twice per week in August, depending on how warm the weather gets, ensuring the soil is moist throughout but not waterlogged as this will rot the roots and destroy your plants,’ adds Chris.

When it comes to agapanthus in containers, these may require watering more frequently as pots and containers tend to dry out much more quickly than plants growing in the ground. Check how dry the soil is by poking your finger into the compost before you water, as agapanthus benefit if the soil dries out a little before watering.

‘If the weather is very dry, give agapanthus a proper soak now and again rather than lots of little splashes of water, which won’t do much good,’ advises Julian. ‘But do avoid overwatering agapanthus as they dislike sitting in wet soil, especially when in pots, and they’ll always perform better when free-draining, so consider pot feet or a well-draining but moisture-retaining mix, like this Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Peat-free compost, £8.50 from B&Q, which can help prevent plants from drying out too quickly.’

3. Ensure plenty of sunshine

Agapanthus require direct sunlight for at least two-thirds of the day, so it’s important to factor this in at the agapanthus planting stage. Moving a plant into a sunny spot too late in the season may mean that it doesn’t flower the following year.

‘Find a sun-kissed area of the garden to plant agapanthus that also benefits from a bit of rain shelter,’ advises Craig. ‘This normally consists of planting near a sun-facing fence and should encourage fresh new growth as well as more flowers.’

When it comes to the extremely hot weather that we’ve been experiencing this summer, although agapanthus handle hot dry spells better than most plants, prolonged heatwaves can require more targeted care like deep watering or a smart irrigation system to ensure that plants don’t suffer in the heat.

‘For agapanthus in containers, do make sure that they’re not baking in all-day sun with no room for moisture to stay in the compost,’ advises Julian.

Shop for DIY irrigation kits

4. Hold off feeding agapanthus in summer

While it can be tempting to whip out the plant fertiliser if you want to encourage a healthy plant to produce more flowers, adding fertiliser is something that you actually shouldn’t be doing in high summer when it comes to agapanthus.

‘You don’t need to feed agapanthus heavily at this point in the season,’ advises Julian. ‘Too much fertiliser now can encourage lots of leafy growth at the expense of flowers, which will weaken the plant.’

When it comes to feeding agapanthus, this should be done during the growing season from Spring until flowering, using a high potassium feed, such as Levington Tomorite Liquid Tomato Food, £3.99, Amazon.

And remember that plants in containers have less access to nutrients than plants growing in the ground in borders, so feeding any agapanthus you have growing in pots is essential during the growing season.

5. Don’t divide agapanthus in summer

‘When it comes to dividing perennial plants like agapanthus, I would always advise not splitting them in August as doing this so late into the season will stress the plant and hinder its growth,’ says Craig. ‘I’d therefore recommend waiting until early spring to separate them,’ advises Craig.

The benefit of dividing agapanthus plants is that they can become crowded and congested over time, which starves the roots of space and nutrients and can cause a lack of flowers. Established agapanthus clumps are best lifted and divided into smaller clumps in springtime, which will give extra plants for free that can then be planted elsewhere in the garden.

How are your agapanthus faring this summer? Let us know how you've been looking after them.

Gladioli are instantly recognised by their spires of blooms and vibrant colours and are a favourite in the garden and as cut flowers. A single flower spike can produce up to 20 buds, so gladiolus not flowering is a big disappointment – especially as their leaves aren't particularly interesting in their own right.

There are lots of reasons for gladiolus not flowering, including the age of the corms, the planting technique and care regime, with some issues easier to remedy than others. To help you get to the bottom of why your gladiolus aren't flowering, we asked the experts for their advice and solutions to ensure beautiful blooms every year.

1. The age of the corms

If your gladiolus has flowered reliably for years and has suddenly stopped, it could be due to the age of the corms. Corms are similar to bulbs and will multiply as the plant grows, creating new plants.

'Corms that have matured and flowered for a few years will produce new corms that will eventually replace the parent plant. As well as a new main corm, the plant can also produce smaller cormlets that emerge from the seam between the old and new sections,' explains Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture.

'First year corms are smaller than the parent corm and often will not bloom, only producing flowers in their second year of growth. Cormlets may take up to three years to bloom. If you divide an existing clump, only replant the largest corms, as these will produce the most buds. First-year corms and cormlets can be planted in pots and then placed out of the way to mature for a year before being planted out.'

If you want guaranteed flowers and your corms are a few years old, it might be investing in a new set. Crocus have a wide range of gladiolus corms available each winter – the mixed colour collection would be perfect for beginners.

2. Not enough sun

Gladiolus need full sun to bloom: 'at least six hours of direct sun each day to produce strong flower spikes,' says Morris Hankinson, managing director of Hopes Grove Nurseries 'If they are planted in too much shade, they produce more leafy growth instead of flowers.'

If you have planted your gladiolus bulbs in pots, then you can easily move your pot into a sunnier spot. Of course, this needs to be done early in the growing season to ensure there's enough time for flower stems to develop and bloom.

For gladiolus planted in the ground it is, unfortunately, a case of waiting for the leaves to go over in autumn, digging up the corms and replanting in a sunny spot next spring – February is a great time to plant gladiolus.

3. Feeding with a nitrogen-rich fertiliser

If your corms are not too old and are planted in a sunny position, still your gladiolus is not flowering it may be worth double checking your fertiliser.

Nitrogen rich feeds – which includes many general fertilisers – encourage leafy growth at the expensive of flowers. 'Instead, switch to a potash-rich feed like tomato food to support flower growth,' says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

Tomatorite, available on Amazon – is a great option for promoting blooms – or you could try making your own tomato fertiliser. Feed every week or two during the growing season.

4. Pruning the foliage after flowering

One of the biggest mistakes people make when growing gladiolus is pruning the foliage too soon after flowering. This is a leading cause of gladiolus not flowering.

'To make sure they flower next year, leave the leaves on after flowering and let the foliage stay until it naturally turns yellow. The leaves will photosynthesise and replenish the corm,' says Chris Bonnett, founder of GardeningExpress. The energy it stores now is essential for growth and healthy blooms next year.

The same rules apply when growing other bulbs after flowering, such as tulips.

5. Planting corms too late

'You should only plant gladiolus corms when the risk of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up. It can take a few months for gladiolus to bloom, so if they are planted too late or you experience a short summer, the window for buds to develop can be over quickly,' says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture.

'To ensure a good display, you can try starting plants indoors a few weeks before frosts end, and then transplant them outside once the soil is warm enough.'

If planting outside, February is a great time to plant your gladiolus corms.

6. Not planting corms deeply enough

As is the case with many bulbs, getting the correct planting depth can make or break your chance of flowers. In fact, its one of the most common bulb-planting mistakes.

If your gladiolus aren't flowering, it could be that they have been planted too shallow. 'If the corms aren't planted deep enough, the plants become unstable and put less energy into flowering. Corms should be planted about 10 to 15cm deep,' says Morris Hankinson. This is a similar depth to daffodil bulbs.

To make things easier, you can use a bulb planting tool like this Gardena Bulb Planter from Amazon which has measurements on the side to help you get the right depth.

7 . Keeping the corms in the ground over winter

'Gladiolus can be left in the ground over winter but will often perform better if lifted and stored as the corms may not grow after a cold, wet winter,' says Morris Hankinson, Managing Director of Hopes Grove Nurseries.

Lift the corms using a fork, then shake off any excess soil and store in mesh, paper or hessian bags – like these from Amazon – and keep in a cool, frost-free location. You can then replant in early spring.

Lifting gladiolus also gives you the opportunity to manage overcrowding – another leading cause of gladiolus not flowering. 'Corms naturally produce offsets, and over time these clumps of corms become congested, which can reduce flowering. The congestion causes plants to compete for space and nutrients, impacting flowering. Regularly replacing older corms with the largest newer ones will help maintain strong flowering each year.'

If you want to keep your corms in the ground, covering the top with mulch – like Strulch from Amazon – can help keep the corms viable, though it is no guarantee.

Nothing is more disappointing than a plant failing to bloom, if it's happened to you this year don't give up on your gladiolus. Follow our advice to help your current plants or make sure you put these tips into action next year.

If your dahlias are (hopefully) flowering this month and you want to prolong or boost those displays, you'll need to know what to do with dahlias in August.

Whether you’re growing dahlias in pots or dinnerplate varieties in your border, the care you give them right now will determine how long they bloom for – and how much they flower over the coming weeks.

It's all about deadheading them the right way, watering them properly, and one or two other care tasks that'll guarantee strong, healthy plants for the rest of the growing season. Here's what to do with your dahlias this August.

What you'll need

1. Deadhead spent flowers

In August, your dahlias should be pumping out blooms like there’s no tomorrow. That’s why deadheading is such an important dahlia task – think of them as a cut-and-come-again plant, because the more you deadhead, the more flowers you’ll be rewarded with.

‘The most important August job is to keep the plants flowering well, and here, deadheading is crucial,’ says Topher Martyn, head gardener at Syon Park.

‘When you cut off an old flower head, trim right back to the next pair of leaves, as this is where a new pair of flowers will emerge.’

I always resort to a sturdy pair of garden snips when I’m deadheading my plants, like these Kent & Stowe Garden Life Snips from B&Q.

Identifying an old flower head is pretty easy – you’ll just need to look at its shape.

‘Pointy shapes mean the flowers are done, so cut them all the way back to the main stem,’ explains Nicky Ryan, gardener at Polhawn Fort. ‘To recognise new buds, look for round shapes.’

2. Cut back leggy stems

If your dahlias are beginning to look leggy in August, you can get them back in shape by pruning them a little harder.

‘One of the (many) strengths of dahlias is that they’re strong growers, so if you think they’re getting leggy, don’t be afraid to cut a few stems back hard,’ says Topher from Syon Park.

‘Before you know it, there’ll be new buds coming through further down, and there’s no reason they won’t keep on through the dog days of September, right up to the first frost.’

You’ll need a sharp pair of secateurs to make the task smoother. These Niwaki Sentei Secateurs are some of the best I’ve tried, but if you’re after a budget-friendly pair, the Spear & Jackson Razorsharp Bypass Secateurs (which you can buy from Amazon) are an absolute steal.

3. Water them well

Underwatering and overwatering are some of the main reasons a dahlia fails to bloom, and they can stunt a plant’s flowering potential in August, too. Since the heatwaves seem to be sticking around, hydration is key this month.

‘While they will tolerate a degree of drought, dahlias generally perform far better if kept watered, so this might be a case when it’s worth schlepping out with a watering can,’ says Topher from Syon Park.

‘During dry spells, regular watering will be needed at the base of the new plant,’ agrees Nicky from Polhawn Fort. ‘Dahlias in pots will need more watering.’

Since there are hosepipe bans in place in many parts of the UK, it’s worth using a big watering can instead, like this 10L Ward Watering Can from Argos.

4. Feed them until the end of the month

Keep your dahlias well-fed in August to maximise their flowering displays. Until the end of the month, anyway.

‘Continue to feed container plants weekly and ground plants every two weeks with a low nitrogen, high potassium feed,’ says Nicky. ‘At the end of August, stop feeding so the tubers can prepare for their winter dormancy.’

Vitax Dahlia Feed, which you can order from Amazon, is a high-potash fertiliser that’s ideal for August feeding.

Deadheading, consistent watering and high-potash feeds are key to nurturing dahlias in August, promoting lots of healthy blooms right through to the autumn months.

The end of the school year always comes with mixed emotions for the kids and me, mostly because our routines are messed up, but I digress. The one thing that I wasn't prepared for was the sheer amount of artwork and schoolwork both of my daughters brought home. It was pretty much an entire year's worth of creativity landed in my hallway in one afternoon.

As much as I genuinely would love to keep every single piece because I'm a big softie, tend to hold on to things that hold sentimental value and find it super hard to get rid of emotional clutter, I knew with the sheer volume, this wasn't going to be realistic. I also wasn't about to cover my fridge with it all, only to face the impossible task of deciding what deserved to stay and what needed to go.

Instead, I wanted a way to celebrate what they'd made without immediately forcing myself to sort through an enormous pile (and hide it from them in the process!). The solution has meant I can display their artwork beautifully now and decide what to keep later. These are the things I've invested in to showcase them, and it turns out they're the perfect delay tactic!

1. A front opening art frame has taken the pressure off

The best thing I've bought is a front-opening children's art frame, £8.49 from Amazon. From the outside, it looks like a normal picture frame, but it opens up to store several pieces behind one display.

It means I can pop quite a number of pictures into the frame without having to edit the collection down too much straight away. The latest masterpiece sits proudly at the front, while all the others are kept safely behind until I'm ready to go through them. When I remember (seldom), I have changed up the picture.

Professional organiser Shannon Murphy, founder of Simpl Living Co. says parents shouldn't feel guilty about being selective. 'An art gallery doesn't display every piece of art an artist has ever created; it curates a collection of the best pieces with the best stories,' she says. 'The same principle applies to children's artwork.'

2. I've given their favourite pieces a proper home

Rather than keeping all their artwork downstairs, I've framed a handful of extra special pieces in their bedrooms.

I also have a pinboard (£16.99 at Amazon) in one of my daughters' rooms, which has become the perfect place to display certificates, photos and little creations she's proud of. It's easy to swap things in and out as new masterpieces come home, and it gives her a dedicated space to celebrate everything she's achieved throughout the year.

Seeing their artwork displayed like pieces of real art makes them so proud, and it also means those standout creations become part of their bedrooms rather than disappearing into a storage box.

Shannon also recommends getting children involved in choosing what stays if they're old enough. Asking them which pieces they're most proud of often reveals lovely stories or memories behind the artwork, which can even be written on the back before it's stored away.

3. A magnetic display makes it easy to rotate new masterpieces

Instead of adding more to my fridge, I've also added a magnetic arch wall sticker, from £21.99 at Amazon, in their playroom, which acts like a little gallery space.

Whenever they bring home something new, we simply swap it over with another picture with no tape or Blu-Tack needed, and they love choosing what to feature each week.

If you do like displaying artwork on the fridge, Shannon suggests introducing a simple one-in, one-out rule, where every new masterpiece replaces another. It's an easy way to keep displays looking intentional while helping children learn to make thoughtful choices about what they treasure most.

4. I'll sort through everything when I get time

Eventually, when things are quieter, I'll go through the collection I've stored away in a box and keep the pieces that really capture each stage of their childhood, storing them safely to look back on in years to come.

Shannon suggests photographing favourite creations and turning them into an annual book if space is tight, or storing originals in a large artist's portfolio case, like this from Amazon for £22.99, or a display book like this one (£14.44 from Amazon) to keep them flat, protected and organised.

Having somewhere to display and temporarily store all of their artwork has taken away the pressure completely. I get to enjoy everything they've created, and my daughters can proudly see their work on display.

Then I can choose what to keep when I'm ready (and they forget about them), rather than making snap decisions I'll probably regret, just to keep the clutter to a minimum.

If you’ve ever been kept awake by a snoring sleep partner, then you’ll know exactly how disruptive this condition can be to a good night’s sleep.

Equally, if you are the snorer, you might be getting just as frustrated by a broken sleep that leaves you feeling tired and badly rested in the morning.

That’s why I asked three sleep experts for their top tips on how to stop snoring.

From the sleeping positions that reduce snoring to the best pillow type and height, this is their advice for reducing snoring and getting a better night’s sleep.

What is snoring

First up, what exactly is snoring, and why might we do it? ‘Snoring can be a natural process,’ explains Hannah Shore, head of sleep science at sleep retailer Mattress Online. ‘It’s caused when the muscles relax in the upper airway, just like the rest of our muscles relax whilst we are asleep.'

'The snoring is the sound of air being forced through this smaller, relaxed gap,’ says Hannah

However, natural or not, if your snoring is loud enough to wake either yourself or your sleep partner, it’s something you might prefer to avoid, and, luckily, our experts say there are some easy ways to do so.

How to stop snoring

1. Consider your sleeping position

First up when it comes to preventing snoring, consider your sleeping position.

‘For many people, sleeping on their side is one of the most effective ways to help reduce snoring,’ explains Sammy Margo, Chartered Physiotherapist and sleep expert at sleep retailer Dreams.

‘When you sleep on your back, gravity may cause the tongue and soft tissues in the throat to fall backwards, partially blocking the airway, which may increase the likelihood of snoring.’

In contrast, ‘side sleeping helps keep the airways more open,’ says Sammy, ‘making it particularly beneficial for those who experience mild snoring or disrupted sleep.’

‘When you lie on your back, gravity pulls the tongue and soft tissues backwards, narrowing the airway and causing the vibrations we hear as snoring,’ agrees Dave Gibson, sleep expert, Registered Osteopath, and founder of The Sleep Site.

‘As a result, many people find that their snoring is noticeably worse on their back and improves once they train themselves to stay on their side,’ shares Dave.

Although that does raise another question. It’s all very well saying ‘sleep on your side’, but our preferred sleeping position easily becomes ingrained.

If you’re a back sleeper who is struggling with snoring, how do our experts advise making the switch from back to side sleeping?

2. Sort your pillow setup

As Ideal Home’s Sleep Editor, I know just how important choosing the right pillow is. The type of pillow we sleep on also has a significant effect on how comfortable we find various sleeping positions.

If your pillow is too low, you won’t find lying on your side that comfortable, so you’re much more likely to return to back sleeping. Therefore, investing in one of the best pillows for side sleepers can be crucial to this anti-snoring advice working.

‘With side sleeping being the ideal position to reduce snoring, the aim for any pillow setup is to support you in this position throughout the night,’ agrees Dave.

‘For side sleeping, a medium-to-high loft pillow that fills the gap between the shoulder and head works well. This prevents the head from tilting back or the chin tucking into the chest, both of which can restrict airflow,’ Dave advises.

‘Some people find that a slight elevation helps if nasal congestion contributes to their snoring,’ adds Dave, ‘but it should not be too high. The goal for the overall pillow setup should be comfort as well as reduced noise, without forcing the neck into an unnatural position.’

‘The right pillow can make a significant difference when it comes to reducing snoring,’ agrees Sammy. ‘The aim is to keep your head, neck and spine properly aligned while helping to maintain an open airway throughout the night.’

I’ve included three of my tried-and-tested top pillows for side sleeping below.

3. Invest in a body pillow

Our sleep experts also point out that it’s not only the pillow under your head that can help with snoring. You might also want to consider using a body pillow.

‘Body pillows can be a useful option for people looking to reduce snoring, especially if they find it difficult to stay on their side throughout the night,’ says Sammy. ‘They make side sleeping more comfortable and may help you stay in that position for longer, reducing the chances of rolling onto your back or front while you sleep.’

‘Body pillows are particularly useful for people who start the night on their side but tend to roll onto their back, or front, as they sleep,’ agrees Dave.

‘If you tend to roll onto your back, you would position the pillow behind you to stop yourself from falling backwards. If you want to prevent rolling forward, you could hug the body pillow and place part of it between your knees.’

‘Body pillows don’t directly stop snoring, but because they help you maintain a side-sleeping position throughout the night, they can reduce snoring in people whose symptoms are typically worse when lying on their back,’ summarises Dave.

All this said, although changing your sleeping position can definitely help to prevent snoring – as can choosing the right pillows to support you in that process – our experts make sure to point out this isn’t the only fix that may be needed.

As well as considering your sleep setup, ‘you need to find out what is *causing* your snoring,’ says Hannah. That’s because not all snoring is the same.

Hannah offers the following ‘cheatsheet’ to help you dig into the nitty-gritty of what’s keeping you (or your partner) awake at night.

Common causes of snoring

• Do you only snore on your back? 'If so, some of the pillows discussed previously may help,' says Hannah.
• Do you only snore after alcohol? 'This is due to the relaxation effect alcohol has on our muscles,' explains Hannah. 'Alcohol relaxes the upper airway muscles more than normal, reducing the space for free-flowing air. You may find that reducing the amount of alcohol you drink improves your snoring.'
• Do you only snore in the summer months? 'This could be allergies causing inflammation in the upper airway and reducing the space further than normal,'' advises Hannah. 'Try antihistamines or anti-inflammatory remedies.'
• Are you overweight? 'Sometimes, when we gain a little extra weight, it can sit around our necks and (weirdly) our tongues,' says Hannah. 'This can reduce the space in the upper airway when we sleep. You might find that losing a little weight can improve your snoring.'
• Is your snoring loud and irregular? Do you have long pauses? 'If so, this could be a sign of Obstructive Sleep Apnoea (OSA), and you may want to go seek medical help for your snoring,' warns Hannah.

‘If your snoring is loud or frequent, or is associated with pauses in breathing, choking or gasping during sleep, morning headaches, or excessive daytime sleepiness, it is worth speaking to your GP about an assessment for obstructive sleep apnoea,’ agrees Dave. 'This common sleep disorder is associated with increased cardiovascular risk if left untreated.’

So, before elbowing your partner in the side because they’re snoring for the umpteenth time this week, or deciding on a sleep divorce and shutting the door on the noise, encourage the snorer in your life to seek a GP appointment, just in case.

If the doctor offers a clean bill of health, adopting the sleep setup changes our experts advise can make a big difference to snoring.

Invest in a pillow the right height for comfortable side sleeping, along with a body pillow – or simply a spare pillow that can be tucked between the knees, wedged behind the back, or hugged at the front to prevent rolling onto the back – and you’re well on your way to stopping the snoring and creating a more peaceful night's sleep for all involved.

With increasing temperatures and no sign of them going away over the next few years, it's time for us to adapt how we manage our gardens during the summer months.

With incoming heatwaves, we've spoken to our gardening experts to find out what tips and tricks they can pass to us so we can keep our much-loved outdoor spaces thriving.

We have seven great tips to keep the next heatwave as stress-free as possible for you and your garden.

1. Water deeply, but less often

'One of the biggest mistakes I see is people watering little and often,' says Liam Cleary, gardening expert at the Old Railway Line Garden Centre. 'It feels like you're helping the plants, but you're really only wetting the surface. A proper deep soak every few days encourages roots to grow down into cooler soil where moisture lasts much longer.'

'When a heatwave hits, the main thing gardeners rely on is watering deeply and less often, so the moisture gets right down to the roots,' agrees Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. 'A quick splash on the surface just disappears far too fast.'

When doing your deep watering, use a hose head that provides a heavy yet soft rain feel; we like Amazon's Dramm 14865 one-touch rain wand with one-touch valve, 16 inch in blue, £42.05. It hydrates without disturbing the soil.

2. Timing

Timing is everything when you are keeping your plants hydrated during a heatwave. 'Early morning or evening watering is always best, when there’s less evaporation, and plants can actually make use of it, says Julian.

And it also pays to watch your plants closely for signs, rather than overwater them. 'When your plants genuinely tell you they need a drink (look for crispy or brown edges that don't recover at night), water more deeply and infrequently. Pour water at the base of the plant, let it completely soak into the ground, and then go over it a second time. This encourages the water to penetrate deep into the water table, training the roots to grow downward where the soil stays naturally cooler and damper,' advises Noah Mabey, senior gardener at Thornbridge Hall and horticultural advisor to Platinum Spas.

To help you decide when to water instead of guessing, invest in a moisture tester; we like B&Q's plant hygrometer for indoor/outdoor gardening, £11.59. All you need to do is pop the probe into the soil, and it will tell you its moisture level.

3. Harvest the rain

With hosepipe bans already enforced in some areas and no doubt more on their way, it pays to be organised and investing in a water butt is a great option – if we have any rain to fill it!

Noah explains, 'Relying on mains water during a heatwave can often be restricted by hosepipe bans. Adding dedicated water butts into your garden is one of the easiest ways to secure a free, independent water supply. People often underestimate how much water a single downpipe can collect; a brief summer downpour on a decent-sized roof can fill a standard water butt in very little time.

To make this harvested water go as far as possible, step away from the hosepipe, which encourages overwatering. Fill a traditional watering can directly from the butt tap. This forces you to be more targeted, ensuring you can see exactly how much water is going directly to the root area of specific plants.'

There are a couple of water butt options on the market, from good value like B&Q's ward stand and downpipe connector with 210 litre basic water butt at £39, to Garden Trading's powder-coated steel design in thistle green, currently on sale at £176.

4. Mulching

Mulching is such a beneficial thing to do – it boosts biodiversity, prevents erosion, suppresses weeds, enriches the soil – and in a heatwave it helps to regulate soil temperature and conserves moisture.

Huw Richards, best-selling author, grow-your-own expert and ambassador for Gardena explains, 'One of the most effective ways to help your garden cope during a heatwave is to prioritise soil health. Soil which is rich in organic matter naturally holds onto water for longer, giving plants a more consistent supply between watering.'

The best way to help during high temperatures is to apply a 5-10 cm layer of organic mulch. Huw adds, 'Put compost, straw or leaf mould mulch around your crops; it acts as a protective blanket over the soil. Grass clippings are also an excellent mulch provided they are cut from a lawn of grass that isn’t in flower, which could cause weed issues later down the line.'

Dobies sell Strulch mineralised straw garden mulch, currently £19.99 for a 9kg bag, or if you prefer a leaf mould compost, then check out Happy Earth Soil, 50L bag full of fallen leaves with worm castings and microbes, £18.98, Amazon.

5. Move things around

Sounds obvious, but sometimes we are so used to seeing things in certain positions in our gardens, and they look well established, that we forget we can move them. And there's no better time to do this than before a heatwave.

'Try grouping containers together in a sheltered, partially shaded location to create a more humid microclimate and reduce water loss,' suggests Huw. 'I like to place my pots at the foot of the shady side of a hedge, for example.'

Noah adds, '“Potted plants and containers are incredibly vulnerable to heat because their root systems are isolated above ground, causing them to dry out quickly in direct sunlight. Design your container setups with deep trays or saucers underneath. In a heatwave, water poured on top of a dry pot often channels straight down the sides and wastes away out the bottom. A saucer catches this runoff, allowing the compost to slowly wick it back up.'