When my partner and I bought our hodge-podge half cottage-half 70 bungalow house, we had a list of things we knew we wanted to change. But as any renovator will know, you have to start with the urgent issues, such as rewiring, new plumbing and a new bathroom, and leave more aesthetic changes for a later date.

Happily for us, we’re now three years into our renovation have tackled the core issues, which means we’re now able to make optional changes to boost our home's kerb appeal. One of those changes was to update the exterior of the 1970s single-storey extension with an integrated garage.

The previous owners had used clad the structure in a concrete stone replica, which really jars against the natural stone of our cottage. I also feel like it dates the house in a negative way and, while I’m a big fan of keeping mid-century charm just as much as historic features, this definitely needs an upgrade. So, when it came to our home's exterior cladding, we went with timber, balancing our shoestring budget with maximum kerb appeal.

This is how we did it.

Step 1: Securing planning permission to reclad our garage

Of all the things to know before cladding your home, the planning rules are arguably the most important. In many cases, cladding will fall under permitted development, but that is not always the case, so it's crucial you check with your local planning authority before you make changes.

Our house is in a Conservation Area and so we don’t benefit from most of the Permitted Development rights that other houses do. This includes our ability to change the appearance of the house. So, when we applied for planning permission to make alterations, such as replacing the windows, creating a new driveway and installing rooflights, we included our proposals for recladding the front elevations.

From the street, our house can be visually split into three sections: the two-storey cottage, the pitch roof extension that runs adjacent and the flat roof extension at the back, which includes the garage.

Our idea was to create changes that visually ‘zone’ the exterior, so the original stonework of the cottage is being repointed in lime, the pitched roof section will be rendered in lime (in-keeping with the village we live in), and, we'd reclad the flat-roof section with timber.

Fortunately, planning permission was granted with minimal fuss.

Step 2: Setting a budget for the timber cladding

There are lots of different types of cladding, and while timber cladding is generally considered to be a great option for those on a budget, in reality, the costs can escalate quickly once you consider quality, longevity and maintenance. I knew we had to find a happy medium, so we opted for untreated larch for £445 including delivery, battens and corner pieces. Additional materials, such as stainless steel nails, cement screws and a rodent mesh were another £30.

We didn’t get any quotes from contractors to do this job, because we were both fairly confident we could tackle it on a DIY basis, but I would expect costs of around £200 per day to get someone in to do it for us.

We had many of the tools we needed already, but if you were starting without, I would definitely recommend a mitre saw, like this Einhell mitre saw (£89.99 from Toolstation) and a plunge/track saw, like this Draper plunge saw (£159.99 at Toolstation), as they saved us so much time and effort cutting the pieces to size.

Step 3: Installing the cladding

First things first, we installed battens to the concrete ‘stone’ of the garage using corrosion-resistant masonry screws, a tricky venture when working with an incredibly uneven profile, but we managed to get them square. The battens are primarily to secure the boards on to the wall, but they also provide an essential ventilation air gap so the wood doesn’t go mouldy during the winter.

We didn't need to use a weatherproof membrane as the garage was already watertight, but before doing your own cladding, I would recommend double checking that before you start.

Starting from the bottom, we used stainless steel nails to secure the boards, overlapping the next board up to give the shiplap effect. One of the best decisions we made was scouring the internet and local saw mills to source horizontal planks that would stretch the length of the garage with no joins or cuts. Not only did this make our lives a million times easier during installation, but it also looks so much neater.

Unfortunately, we couldn't install the cladding right to the bottom on the wall and had to stop at the line of the damp proof course to prevent rotting. So, after the timber was in place, I used an external masonry paint in a dark green colour to visually push back the lower section of the wall. We also installed a special mesh designed to keep pesky rodents out of the cladding along the bottom, but you can't see it at all.

How do I feel now it’s finished?

The process took a couple of days for a 15m2 area, so if you’re thinking of doing a similar job, then I would put aside a long weekend — 3-4 days should do it.

Once the first couple of boards were on, I was initially concerned about the colour of the larch as it had a bit of a pink tint that definitely wasn't the look I was hoping for. I did worry we'd made a mistake for a good few weeks, but trusted the weathering process. Now a year on, I can happily say the weathering is toning those hues down nicely as the wood silvers with age.

I would definitely try cladding again and think most people and novice DIYers could give it a go, especially for the savings.

We’re not entirely done with the exterior renovation just yet and need to do the lime cladding on the rest of the house, but as a start, I’m delighted with it!

If you’re planning to boost your property’s thermal performance as part of a renovation project, improving the thermal efficiency of the outer walls can make a huge difference to what you spend on energy bills.

Modern brick homes may have cavity wall insulation that does the job for you (although you can boost the thermal efficiency by adding insulating render too), but in older homes with solid walls, you may need to look methods of external wall insulation instead.

Offering a clean-looking finish and a protective layer against the weather, insulating render is one possible solution that can be added to your home’s exterior walls. But before choosing to render your house, it’s important to do your research into the most suitable render solution for your type of property and its location.

However, if you want to find out more about the specifics of insulating render, how it’s applied and – importantly – how much it costs, keep on reading.

What is insulating render and what is its purpose?

Before we get into the details, it’s important to lay out the difference between insulated render systems and insulating render. In this article, it’s the latter we’ll be focusing on, so it’s important to get to grips with the difference between these two solutions.

Insulated render systems are a type of external wall insulation that comprises insulation boards of XPS, EPS or mineral wool that are fixed to the outside of a property. These are then finished with a render base-coat and mesh, plus a decorative top-coat, to help prevent heat from leaking out through your home’s walls.

Typically, an EWI system is between 90mm – 120mm thick and comprises multiple layers, so you need to consider the impact the added thickness these layers will have on your property.

'However, a new generation of ‘insulating render’ products has emerged over recent years,' says Andy Pyke, technical director at ProofShield. 'They also provide significant levels of insulation by incorporating lightweight aggregates and ceramic microspheres to create air bubbles within the render, which prevent heat flow through the render itself.'

For instance, ProofShield’s ThermoSilicone Render System uses ultra-lightweight expanded Perlite in its base layer to establish an uninterrupted, highly efficient thermal barrier to conduction of heat.

Cornerstone’s Insulating Render, on the other hand, is a dry ready mixed render designed as a lightweight fibred base layer for external applications. Comprised of 100% pure hydraulic lime, recycled glass aggregates and other conservation-suitable additives, this solution is well-suited for homeowners looking to reduce thermal losses from exterior walls. According to data gathered by Cornerstone, a 50mm application of the product will improve the U-value (a measure of heat loss, where lower numbers are better) of a solid wall by 50% or more.

How is insulating render applied?

Insulating render is applied in exactly the same way as a regular render system – first, the thermal base layer is applied to a depth of 2-3cm before being flattened off. Next, it’s finished with a through-coloured, weatherproof topcoat for a clean, modern-looking finish.

One of the main reasons to apply a render finish to your home is to improve its external appearance and increase its resistance to the elements. Therefore, this type of coating should only be applied to an existing property if the walls are structurally sound and free from damp, otherwise you risk trapping moisture inside the structure of the wall itself.

While a fresh, rendered finish offers a sure-fire route to boosting your home's kerb appeal, for the best possible results it’s worth bringing in the professionals to do the job for you. A badly applied layer of render can ruin the look of your property, so always be sure to check the standards of the renderers you employ to make sure their work is up to scratch.

How much does insulating render cost?

There are multiple factors that’ll affect how much it costs to finish your house exterior with insulating render, including the size of the area you’re planning on applying the render across and the condition of the substrate beneath.

'If we make some assumptions that the substrate to be rendered is reasonably sound, then the costs of using an insulating render versus a regular render are very close to one another,' says Andy. 'This may sound a little counterintuitive, but when you consider that around two thirds of the total cost for re-rendering your home is made up of labour and access (scaffolding) and that only one third or so is the actual materials, it starts to make more sense.'

ProofShield’s ThermoSilicone insulating render system costs around £18 per m2 in materials, and typically around £60 per m2 for installation. 'If you went for a regular, non-insulating render system, you might save £4-5 per m2 in material costs, but the installation costs would be the same,' says Andy.

Is insulating render a good idea?

Insulating render is like a breathable jacket that’ll freshen up the outside of your house, regardless of its age or construction type. Therefore, it’s a solution that’s suitable for many homes in need of thermal and aesthetic improvements.

However, there are some exceptions. For instance, if your home has issues with damp, adding a layer of render over the top isn’t going to fix the issue – so you’ll need to address the underlying cause of the problem before applying insulating render.

When it comes to older buildings, according to Andy, there’s a lot of developing research and evidence on the need for breathability. 'If you wrap up an old building in an airtight layer of insulation boards (XPS or EPS), then it completely blocks the path of the moisture vapour that would normally have been able to transpire through the walls, and can then lead to problems with mould growth triggered by condensation.'

Traditional sand and cement renders can also trap moisture within walls in much the same way. 'Conversely, insulating render is highly vapour-permeable and actually helps balance moisture levels, reducing the risk of mouldy walls,' says Andy.

Cornerstone’s insulating lime render is also highly vapour permeable to support moisture management, and is capable of absorbing, storing and buffering excess moisture.

Remember, if you live in a conservation area or any other designated zone, you may need to apply for planning permission if you want to re-render external walls. Building Regulations approval may also apply, depending on the extent of the work you’re carrying out – always check with your local authority for peace of mind before you start.

Cladding is a sought-after solution on renovation and extension projects across the UK. But with composite and timber both popular options, how do they actually compare?

Both types of cladding have their key differences, advantages and drawbacks. But is one actually better than the other? I asked the experts for their take.

What’s the difference between composite and timber cladding?

In order to understand which is exterior cladding is best for your home, you need to understand where the two materials differ on they key considerations you'd have as a homeowner.

While timber cladding may seem pretty self-explanatory, composite cladding may not.

This solution is typically made from a combination of wood fibres, recycled materials, polymers and binding agents to establish a hardwearing finish that needs minimal upkeep.

I've spoken to cladding experts in order to dive deeper into how these two options compare.

Material characteristics

Wood is a robust and renewable resource that offers excellent longevity, and there’s a plethora of timber species, treatments and finishes to choose from. 'Timber cladding, made from natural wood, offers warmth, authenticity and timeless character, weathering to a silvery grey if left uncoated,' says Tom Barnes from Vastern Timber.

Composite cladding, on the other hand, is typically made from a blend of recycled wood fibres and plastics, providing a low-maintenance cladding solution. 'It’s highly resistant to weathering, pests and fading, meaning it stays looking fresh year after year with minimal fuss,' says Toby Allen from NeoTimber.

Aesthetics

The characterful grain, plus the unique knots and patterns on the wood surface, are one of the main attractions of natural timber. There’s a plethora of shades available depending on the wood species and finish you choose, from the honey-colour hue of oak to the deep reds and browns of Western red cedar.

'The natural origins of timber mean each board comes with a subtly unique figuring and, depending on the species, different knot shapes, sizes and patterns,' says Graham Whitfield from Russwood.

As composite cladding is a manufactured product, the surface appearance of the wood will likely look a lot more uniform than authentic timber. However, it comes in an array of shades and finishes to suit your home.

'Composite cladding comes in a range of colours and finishes that stay true over time, offering a sleek and uniform appearance without the risk of splitting or warping,' says Laura Cranston from Ecoscape.

Durability & maintenance

Minimal upkeep requirements are one reason homeowners are attracted to the idea of installing composite cladding rather than timber. 'Composite cladding doesn’t require annual painting, staining or sealing, and it resists issues like rot, insect damage and UV fading,' says Laura from Ecoscape.

In contrast, all timber products will weather over time, so some level of maintenance will be required to keep a natural wood finish looking good. Weathering is a process that changes the surface appearance of the cladding and could, over the course of months and years, change the overall appearance of your property.

'South-west facing walls weather relatively fast, due to their exposure to sunlight, whereas north-facing walls tend to weather more slowly, but uniformly,' says Graham from Russwood. 'If uneven weathering is a concern, SiOO:X, a patented wood surface modification treatment, can be applied. This achieves a consistently weathered appearance at an accelerated rate.'

Well-maintained softwood cladding can last between 30 and 50 years, or more, depending on the wood species. Hardwood cladding, such as oak, can last up to 100 years if it’s looked after well.

Environmental impact

There are sustainability advantages to both natural timber and composite cladding, which can be a huge draw to homeowners. 'Both can be environmentally-conscious choices – it just depends whether you prioritise renewability [wood] or recycled content and longevity [composite],' says Laura from Ecoscape.

If you’re investing in timber cladding, double check the supply chain that shows where your wood came from to ensure it was sourced from a responsibly managed forest. Wood that comes with a seal of approval from the FSC or PEFC shows that it’s come from a sustainably managed source.

'Choosing wood from legal, well-managed forests ensures that the harvesting of the wood is sustainable over the long term, while buying locally reduces transport emissions and supports local woodlands, as well as rural economies,' says Tom from Vastern Timber.

Composite cladding scores extra green points due to the nature of the recycled content it contains. 'It makes use of recycled materials, reducing waste and extending the lifecycle of resources like plastics and wood by-products,' says Laura from Ecoscape.

Cost

When it comes to how much house cladding costs, you'll need to consider both upfront and ongoing costs if you are choosing between timber and composite cladding.

There are options for all budgets when it comes to timber cladding. Untreated softwood boarding sits at the cheaper end of the price spectrum and could cost as little as £25 per m2.

However, don’t forget you’ll need to factor in ongoing upkeep costs. If left untreated, some of the cheaper softwoods won’t offer the longevity required for external cladding. Hardwood solutions with fewer knots tend to be more expensive, and could sit in the region of £100 per m2.

'The cost of timber cladding ranges from approximately £25 per m2 for sawn larch feather-edge to £90 per m2 for high-end timbers such as thermally modified ash and Canadian cedar, with plenty of options in between,' says Tom.

High-quality composite products tend to cost more than some types of natural timber. Yet, this cost difference should be factored against the savings you’ll make over the years on reapplying any maintenance treatments.

'As a general starting point, you should budget around £50-£70 per m2 for entry-level composite cladding systems,' says Laura from Ecoscape. 'If you’re looking at more premium, design-led solutions – those that offer richer colour variations, deeper grain textures and enhanced weather resistance – the price can rise to £100 - £140 per m2.'

Installation

If you’re confident in your DIY skills, installing your own timber cladding is possible. However, sleek, crisp designs that require a sharp level of detail are best left to the professionals for the best possible finish. Some of the most common mistakes include failing to leave a sufficient expansion gap between individual boards, laying out the fittings incorrectly or using the wrong fixings altogether. So for some, this may be one of those renovation tasks best left to the pros.

However, composite could be more tricky to install. Depending on the exact product you choose, it’s possible that composite cladding may be heavier than a lot of natural wood solutions, which means there might be some additional requirements at the installation phase.

'Additional support battens or large fixings may be required to secure these boards and end caps might be required to cover cut boards,' says Ed Sutch from Vincent Timber.

Which is better – composite or timber cladding?

There are some scenarios where timber will be the better choice for your project – for instance, if you’re working on a strict heritage renovation or conversion project where natural timber is a requirement laid out by your local planning department. Plus, if you want to enjoy the natural evolution of your cladding’s colour as it’s exposed to the elements, authentic wood is the best option.

Durability and maintenance is where composite cladding may have the edge over natural timber. 'Composite cladding doesn’t warp, rot, splinter or fade,' says Toby from NeoTimber. 'No regular painting, staining or sealing is required – just sit back and enjoy.'

In some environments, like coastal locations, natural timber cladding is probably not the best solution as it may decay quickly. In this case, the robust nature of composite boards will likely serve your home better.

Ultimately, the choice between timber and composite cladding comes down to your project priorities and the unique features and location of your home. You should also weigh up whether you are prepared to undertake ongoing maintenance (or pay a professional to do it). If not, then it's best to pay a little more upfront and opt for composite cladding over timber.

If you're not looking to clad your whole house (or extension), consider paring the cladding with render for a clean, contemporary look.

Finishing your house with the right type of cladding can completely transform its appearance. It could be adding a modern composite to an extension or covering dated pebbledash with timber during a renovation.

You might be inspired by the houses and landscape around you to inform your exterior house cladding, or go off the wall with something completely contrasting. However, you should remember that the quality and style of the material you choose will impact not only how much your cladding costs, but the kerb appeal you create and the maintenance that may be required in the future.

What types of cladding are there?

You can clad a house in pretty much anything — there are endless options for you to choose from, so it’s easier to break the choices down into sections.

You don’t have to stick to the same groupings, in fact, mixing and matching materials often creates a more interesting and well-considered appearance to a house.

Natural cladding materials

Brick is seen up and down the country and is the UK’s most popular cladding material. It’s fuss-free, relatively easy to install and essentially maintenance free. Brick slips are a thinner version of whole bricks, and can be used to save costs — as they're lightweight, they can clad timber frame or other modern construction methods.

Stone is a material most likely seen on old cottages, where the walls were not just clad, but built with it – think, cosy creamy-yellow in the Cotswolds and dark blue in South Wales and the South West.

Knapped flint is also commonly seen as a cladding for churches and homes in East Anglia. Modern extensions or even traditional-style new builds might use stone cladding to fit in better with the houses around them.

Timber is a universal cladding choice, with variations in treatment and installation defining areas of the UK. Relatively cost effective, timber can be varnished, charred, painted or left to silver with age. However, it can require a lot of maintenance to ensure the timber doesn’t warp or rot when exposed to the elements.

Man-made cladding

PVC replicates the look of timber to a fairly convincing degree, especially higher quality options, which will more accurately reproduce the grain of wood. It’s cheaper than wood and far less maintenance, but will only last around 25-30 years before degrading.

Composite cladding is still made from plastic like PVC, but is usually recyclable and made from sustainable or recycled materials mixed with waste hardwood. It’s very lightweight and easy to install.

'Against timber the benefit [of composite materials] is based on the reduced maintenance time and costs, although upfront cost of composite is usually more than timber, after about 5 years of having to treat timber composite becomes a better value option,' argues James Brueton co-founder of Envirobuild.

'[The benefits compared with] PVC is more on the environmental side, the manufacturing of PVC plastic produces very toxic chlorine gasses, also aesthetically PVC will look more 'plasticy', the only other one would be cement board which again has a less natural appearance to composite cladding.'

Find out how composite cladding compares to timber cladding with our expert guide.

Fibre cement panels/boards can look remarkably similar to wood and stone but are highly resistant to water corrosion, fire and UV and ultra low-maintenance, making them a great alternative to PVC and timber.

Metal cladding

Steel provides instant character to a house and suits both modern and traditional houses — in fact, you might see this material around conservation properties from the National Trust or English Heritage. Weathered steel (usually labelled Corten) is a longer-lasting and more durable version or steel, but often comes with a much higher price tag.

Aluminium cladding is best suited to more contemporary-styled extensions as it can come in a huge range of colours and finishes. It’s lightweight and will ‘weather’ in time due to the oxidisation process, protecting itself with layers of durability.

Zinc can be costly but utterly unmatched in elegance. Its understated yet striking nature is paired with its flexibility, making it useful for awkward shapes.

Copper is more often seen on roofs of industrial buildings or churches, but is more recently seen on domestic houses, giving a vibrant green-blue patina over time that is impossible to replicate with other materials. This material is of the higher end of the price scale, but will last indefinitely.

'Metal cladding, particularly standing seam metals like copper and zinc, give much more flexibility for the shape of the building,' adds Adrian James, director at Adrian James Architects. 'The skin can be at any angle (apart from flat) and can fold and curve to suit almost any form, however sculptural, from facetted polyhedrons to domes and any combination thereof.'

What should you consider when choosing the right cladding for your home?

Choosing the right cladding will depend of entirely individual circumstances. There are some key factors which will be utterly unique to you and your project so there is no right or wrong answer.

First, consider your budget. Cladding will cost anywhere from £20/m2 to £200/m2, depending on your choice. The cheapest options are PVC, untreated timber, fibre cement and brick, all offered at around £30/m2. The most expensive cladding types are zinc, copper and stone.

Difficulty of installation should also be factored in as the average tradesperson or enthusiastic DIYer might be able to lay bricks and batten timber, but installing standing seam metal is an art. Give appropriate consideration to the finish of your material and identify how tricky it might be to get the quality you’re after - it will affect your overall budget.

The ‘local vernacular’ is a phrase often used by architects and designers — or Kevin McCloud on Grand Designs— when considering cladding. Using local materials, even in interesting and creative ways, is usually a good way to secure planning permission and to better fit in with the surroundings.

How exposed your property is might further narrow down the choices of cladding available to you. For most homes, sheltered by other houses or hills, this shouldn’t be a problem. However, homes on the coast or on flat land where wind picks up speed or snow is frequent, the durability and longevity of the cladding will be tested. Remember, cladding doesn’t just cover your home for aesthetic purposes, it protects it first and foremost.

Finally, future maintenance is an often-neglected factor in cladding choices, but is hugely important. If you like doing DIY and can hop up a ladder to paint/varnish wood every few years then fantastic, but a lower maintenance option might be more suitable for those that can’t, and cost afford to pay someone else to.

What’s the best type of cladding?

The best type of cladding for your home will depend on the design, your finances and the climate the property will face. But the key is to work with the experts to choose the best option for your project,

'Hire an architect that has a lot of experience using cladding in projects,' suggests Stuart Archer, founder of Archer + Braun Architects. 'If doing a self-build (and not using an architect - the horror!) then we'd advise speaking to a specialist supplier who will be able to advise on all of the above. Also, choosing a builder that has worked with similar cladding is a good idea, and seeing an example of their work would be even better.'

If cladding isn't the right option for your home, there are other ways to add kerb appeal to your home to make it look its absolute best.

Cladding is an especially underrated, but incredibly important, element of any house design project. It will be instrumental in how your house is perceived and how it ages in time. But how much does house cladding cost and how can you make sure you are getting value for money?

Understanding the different types of exterior cladding, their pros and cons and associated costs is crucial so you can ensure you achieve the finish you’re looking for, rather than having to compromise when it comes to budget.

However, the price of the cladding itself shouldn't be the only cost considered. Installation difficulty, ongoing maintenance fees, and lifespan all need to be factored into your calculations so that you spend your money wisely.

How much does house cladding cost?

If you're looking to refresh your home's exterior, the type of cladding you choose will take up a large chunk of your budget, and so it's a good idea to have an estimate of how big the area you're looking to cover is.

Also, if you’re enticed by a certain type of more expensive cladding, remember that you can mix and match styles; this often creates a more interesting house aesthetic.

We've broken down the prices of the most popular cladding types:

PVC

• Material cost: £20/m2
• Installation: Extremely easy to DIY install
• Maintenance: Very low — a quick clean with a pressure washer will keep it looking its best
• Lifespan: 25+ years — better quality cladding will be more resistant to UV and degradation

Timber

• Softwood cost: £24/m2
• Hardwood cost: £45/m2+
• Installation: Simple to install on a DIY basis, with the right equipment
• Maintenance: Regular maintenance required, including sanding and repainting/varnishing every 2-5 years
• Lifespan: 60+ years (well maintained hardwood can last an extraordinarily long time, so offers great value for money)

Fibre cement

• Material cost: £35/m2
• Installation: Relatively tricky to install, so best left to professionals
• Maintenance: Very low — use soapy water for a quick clean when required and avoid pressure washers
• Lifespan: 45+ years

Brick

• Brick: £40/m2
• Brick slips: £35/m2
• Installation: Both bricks and brick slips can be installed by a competent DIYer, but to get a good finish a professional might be required. Brick slips weigh significantly less and can be installed at a much faster rate, which would bring fees down
• Maintenance: Minimal — the mortar around the brick might need repointing every 30 or so years
• Lifespan: 100+ years

Composite

• Material cost: £40/m2
• Installation: Can be installed on a DIY basis
• Maintenance: Very low and can be cleaned using a pressure washer
• Lifespan: Around 25 years

Stone

• Whole stone: £150/m2
• Stone slips: £60/m2
• Installation: Can be done DIY, but might require specialist tools. For best results and experienced professional will be required
• Maintenance: Very low, but might need repointing every 30 years
• Lifespan: 100+ years

Zinc

• Material cost: £150/m2+
• Installation: Zinc cladding installation is absolutely best done by a professional, especially standing seam or other complex designs
• Maintenance: Very low — mild detergents are useful for stubborn dirt but pressure washers should be avoided, even in hard to reach areas
• Lifespan: 60+ years

What factors affect the cost of your house cladding?

There are other factors which should be considered when choosing the right cladding for your home and budget, which could swing the choice one way or the other.

The size of your property, for one, will be a fundamental consideration. If you’re only looking to clad a small side extension, perhaps a more lavish splurge on high-end cladding can be budgeted for, but when you’re cladding a whole house, these costs can quickly spiral out of the range of affordability.

The complexity of the installation and the equipment required for it (such as specialist membranes, battens, fixings, tools) should also be totted up.

For professionals to take on the task, get at least three quotes before you make a decision and if the cladding is especially unusual or rare (such as zinc or copper), ensure they are experienced and have examples of previous work.

'Another thing to consider is how the boards are fixed to the structure behind it,' says Stuart Archer, founder of Archer + Braun Architects, speaking of timber cladding. 'This can be done with secret fixings or visible screws. It's important to get this right as if you don't consider it you can choose some lovely timber cladding and a builder can end up using any old screws, wherever they want and it could end up looking a bit of a mess!'

On site preparation — such as proper storage of material and disposal of old cladding — should be taken into account too. If you’re using tradespeople, make sure everyone is clear about who is responsible for each job before work commences.

Finally, you need to take a long-term view too. Ongoing maintenance costs can be frustrating if you’re not factored them in from the outset. Timber will need to be repainted or revarnished every few years, which will need materials and time.

You may be able to undertake this job yourself, but if it's outside of your capabilities, professional fees will need to be paid.

And so it's worth weighing up how the initial and ongoing costs will compare. For example, if you compare composite and timber cladding, composite cladding will require very little in terms of ongoing maintenance, while you may need to pay a pro every few years to keep your timber cladding looking its best.

What type of cladding offers the best value for money?

The cladding that will give you the best value for money will depend on where you live, the climate you live in, the area to be clad and if you choose to professionally install it or go DIY.

In terms of maintenance and lifespan against material and installation costs, brick would be one of the best cladding options to give value for money. Stone and hardwood timber would also be high on the list due to their long life expectancy, but the latter’s maintenance costs means they would be approximately the same cost again over time.

'A copper clad building is more expensive than a brick or timber outer skin, but over the life of the building this is offset by the materials extreme durability and lack of maintenance and longevity,' argues Adrian James, director of Adrian James Architects. 'This means any additional capital cost at the start of the project will more than offset the fact there will be no further work needed on the cladding for as long as the building itself lasts.'

While cost will be a large concern, try not to let it be the only determining factor. Achieving the finish and kerb appeal you are looking for should also be valued.

FAQs

Is it cheaper to clad or render a house?

House render can cost anywhere between £50/m2 and £100/m2, depending on the type and quality of render, and particular finish/colour you choose.

That puts it cheaper than stone or zinc cladding, but more expensive than the other cladding materials on the list above, so it is not necessarily cheaper to render a house than to clad it.

It’s generally best if render is applied by a tradesperson or specialist and unless you opt for monocouche render (on the higher end of the price scale), and remember, the house will need to be repainted every few years to maintain a good finish.

If you do opt for cladding, then it's worthwhile also trying some of these other ways to add kerb appeal to your home to make it look its absolute best.

EDITOR’S NOTE: An earlier version of this article included a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote has been removed. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

Channelling coastal and country vibes, cladding your home's exterior is a popular and affordable way to update the exterior of your home. It can cover render or brickwork, elevate an understated façade, or help an extension blend in with the rest of the house.

However, the benefits of exterior cladding don't stop there. It can help your home stand up against the elements – particularly valuable for exposed or coastal properties. Cladding also bolsters a property’s insulation.

‘Cladding your home's exterior adds another cavity to the exterior of your home so it helps with noise insulation and improves the building’s thermal properties,’ says Simon Cresswell, director of The Gutter & Cladding Company.

Alongside front door ideas, cladding your home's exterior is one of the best ways to make your house exterior look more expensive. But with something that can completely alter your house's appearance, you want to get it right the first time – after all, everyone can see it!

1. Choosing the right material

Choosing the right type of cladding will set you up for success.

There are several materials available and the right choice will depend on the look you want to achieve. Cladding options range from paintable render and timber to metal, uPVC and stone.

‘When cladding your home's exterior, consider choosing a material that holds extra benefits. Fibre cement is very popular because it ticks all the boxes. It does not rot, rust, warp or crack; has excellent fire classification; uses fewer raw materials and less energy and generates less waste than some traditional building materials,’ says Lisa Grosse, brand manager at Cedral UK. ‘Request samples of your cladding material and expose them to different natural light, such as sun and evening light, to ensure you are happy before you commit.’

Composite is another popular and sustainable material. ‘Made from recycled wood and plastic, composite takes the best qualities from both materials, namely the look and feel of natural wood grain combined with the easy maintenance and longevity of plastic,’ says Ben Allen, director at NeoTimber. ‘It’s available in a variety of colours and textures, so you can easily find an option to match your home.’

Find out how composite compares to timber cladding with our guide.

2. Know your budget

The cost of cladding your home's exterior depends on the quantity of cladding and the materials used. ‘Some companies will have an online calculator to help you budget, but be aware that the installation will also require further costs, and you’ll need to consider extra fees for things like scaffolding,’ says Lisa Grosse from Cedral UK.

Simon Cresswell of The Gutter & Cladding Company advises that an average four-bedroom detached top-half of the house cladding with insulation costs around £12,000.

3. Understand the rules and regulations

Similar to rendering a house, you do not require planning permission when cladding your home's exterior, as it is usually considered permitted development.

However, if you live in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty or a conservation area, or in a listed building, then permission may be required. Contact your local planning authority for advice before starting work.

‘There are also regulations regarding the energy performance of the renovated shell of your home,’ says Lisa Grosse from Cedral UK. ‘This legislation aims to improve the energy efficiency of buildings and reduce the need for heating in winter and cooling in summer. This has a positive impact on your energy bill, but also on the environment. In some cases, you can get subsidies or green loans for these environmentally friendly investments.’

4. Know how to maintain it

The amount of maintenance you are prepared to do should factor into your choice of material, as each type has its own needs. For example, composite and uPVC only require washing down to remove dirt.

Timber cladding is one of the more demanding materials; however, this
is rewarded by its rich texture and natural beauty. ‘After approximately a year of outdoor exposure, timber cladding will begin to attain silvery-grey tones. This can be offset with treatment,’ says Lisa Grosse from Cedral UK. ‘If you’re keen on retaining your cladding’s original colour, then a semi-transparent stain will drastically slow down the greying process while providing some weatherproofing. On average, timber cladding needs to be treated with exterior paint and finishes every five years.’

5. Ensure your cladding is weatherproof

When cladding your home's exterior, it must be waterproof – otherwise, it could lead to damp problems. All types of cladding material will have water-resistant properties; however, whichever type you use, all parts of the façade will need to be weatherproofed. You can do this by fitting a breathable membrane behind the cladding and making sure all joints are properly sealed with a waterproof sealant.

FAQs

Is external cladding a good idea?

Cladding your home's exterior is a good idea as it not only improves the aesthetics of your home but also improves your home's kerb appeal. 'Cladding can offer considerable benefits that will add even more value to your home – particularly important if you’re thinking about re-mortgaging or selling,' adds Lisa Grosse of Cedral UK.

Cladding your home's exterior is also a great energy-saving tip for the home.

What is the best exterior cladding for a house?

Fibre cement cladding is one of the most popular options. 'It does not rot, rust, warp or crack, it has excellent fire classification, uses fewer raw materials and less energy and generates less waste than some traditional building materials,' says Lisa Grosse of Cedral UK.

However, for more traditional homes, you can't beat the rustic appeal of traditional timber – even if it does require more work.

Your home's exterior might have been the feature that first encouraged you to book in a viewing, or even put in an offer. Yet so often, when it comes to decorating, it can be neglected in favour of the interiors. And that's a shame. Because good house exterior colour ideas can be totally transformational.

Just as you can transform a room with paint and panelling, furniture and fabrics, a property's facades will benefit hugely from a new colour scheme, characterful cladding or a rethink of details like guttering, window frames and front door ideas.

Granted, an exterior makeover can be expensive. Checkatrade estimates that the cost to paint a house lies anywhere between £3,000 and £6,000. Factor in cladding in tiles or a material like zinc, and you can expect to spend a lot more. 

Yet creating an impressive exterior can pay dividends. Not just by wowing the neighbours, but by adding value and grabbing the attention of potential buyers. 'In today's digital age, where platforms like Rightmove dominate the housing market, it's essential for your property to stand out amidst the endless scroll,' says Ella Lewis, Client Executive at Chester-based estate agent Currans Homes. 

'Due to the competitive market, it’s imperative for properties to make a lasting impression within seconds. And that's where the power of paint comes into play. We've seen first hand how, for example, creating an iconic door can transform a property from ordinary to extraordinary.'

House exterior colour ideas

With Ella's advice ringing in our ears, we've been determined in seeking out the best exterior colour transformations that will give your home kerb appeal and potentially a USP.

1. Go for a coastal classic combo

'Don’t let decorating the exterior be an afterthought, as well as weatherproofing and protecting your home, it’s a fantastic way to add design personality and curb appeal,' says Ruth Mottershead, creative director at Little Greene, who is responsible for this look in Hicks Blue and Loft White.

Painting your home can be a way to strengthen its identity and ties to a particular period or location. For example, blue and white instantly speaks of a Greek island – and is perfect for a coastal home. 

Nervous about painting your window frames in a deep shade in contrast to your exterior walls? Andy Greenall, head of design at Paint & Paper Library has a great tip. 'When choosing colours for window frames, a good practical tip is to paint sections of timber that you can balance or place alongside the window and walls, rather than testing the colour on the actual frames or a flat wall,' he suggests. 'It really helps to see those colours on more than one plane.'

2. Transform an extension with tiles

In this project by James Dale Architects, the rear of the house has been clad in striking, green tiles by H & E Smith, the tile company responsible for the iconic tiles used throughout the London underground. The vintage-style reference the age of the property, adding a rich complementary colour and texture to the exterior.

'It's all about trying to create something different, something that isn't a bog-standard brick extension,' says James. 'And the green works very nicely with the original buff London brick stock.' 

'Tiles are practical, they're different, although slightly more expensive than other,' James continues. 'When you think about it, tiles are a similar material to brickwork – they're both made from clay. Also, they clean easier than timber cladding, and they last longer.'

In another of James's projects, encaustic tiles have been used to add a contemporary powder blue finish to another rear extension idea. 'We actually clad using two contrasting materials, helping to break down its mass,' explains James. 'The main portion of the extension is clad in blue, terracotta tiles, selected to stand out from the original brickwork, and the smaller side infill section is clad in vertical larch timber.' 

3. Play with multiple colours

This approach proves that the mantra 'business up front, party at the back' doesn't just apply to mullet hairstyles. 

While it's best to keep the public-facing elevations of your home conservative in one colour, a secluded rear elevation can present an opportunity to be creative. But first, check your title deeds and consult your local planning office to check there aren't any covenants restricting the colour you paint your house.

Then the fun can begin. Block out areas of wall with a series of straight lines running vertically, horizontally and diagonally – geometric patterns look playful and modern and will be easier to paint. Pick harmonious colours of the same tone (lightness or darkness) and saturation. For example, pastels, as seen here, or jewel colours.

There are a few things to be aware of when painting directly onto bricks. 'You must bear in mind their porous nature,' says Mandy Rippon, product manager at Frenchic Paint. 'It can result in the wet element of your paint being sucked into the surface on initial application, which can mean you use up more paint and often leads to an uneven finish.' 

'There are some simple steps you can take to avoid this, such as sealing the surface and applying a mist coat,' she adds.

4. Clad with Cor-Ten steel

In this project – Autumn House by Matt Withers at Stylus Architects – Cor-Ten steel has been used as colourful cladding that highlights a new extension and helps to integrate the house with the garden ideas, which was quite a centrepiece of the existing building. 'There was a little bit of reusing of the material in the garden for things like lighting,' Matt says, 'but also a lot of the existing planting had red and orange tones, which is why the two now communicate with each other so well.'

Matt likes his projects to have an interesting element of colour. 'Anyone can add a brick extension, but what communicates your tastes as an individual?' he says. 'When you punch out something that's unique in terms of colour and material selection, people can take a little while to get used to it. But being bold is often a good choice, because you will get people that really fall in love it.'

'Cor-Ten is a unique material – it's not to everybody's taste but it's also not a one-block colour,' he explains. 'It has an almost organic quality to it as it oxidises over time.' The thickness of the panel itself will influence how the material weathers and the colour develops. 'On another project we're using a slightly higher gauge, thicker Cor-Ten, and that tends to turn more brown than orange. Whereas with Autumn House we wanted to go quite bold, and so this copper is more vibrant.'

Location, too, makes a difference. 'It will weather differently if you're located on the coast, and at a different timescale,' says Matt. 'However, after around two years it becomes more consistent.'

5. Highlight architectural features with contrasting borders

So you've decided to play it safe with your main render shade. But don't underestimate the impact a border or small painted detail can make to make your house exterior look more expensive. Here, an architrave and trim in Little Greene's Livid 263 and an unexpected stripe detail in Orange Aurora 21 is used to frame the doorway. The main wall is Ceviche 230 and the door is Serpentine 233.

'Gone are the days of only being able to find masonry paint in limited colours,' says Ruth. 'Our Intelligent Masonry Paint is available in the extensive Little Greene colour palette, so homeowners can really create a unique exterior design scheme.'

6. Unite the street with pastels

'In a street where houses are in closer proximity, don’t overlook the colours used on neighbouring houses,' advises Andy Greenall, head of design at Paint & Paper Library, 'as these can affect how your chosen scheme reads.'   

In fact, in a row of terraced houses, it could be a good idea to collaborate with your neighbours and each paint your house in a different but complementary shade. Pastels can be particularly successful. 

'Pinks and sage greens are the top trending exterior shades of the moment, so are a great choice if you want your home to be the talk of the street,' says Jemma Saunders, colour consultant at Sandtex.

7. Focus on a colour pop

If you would rather give the main exterior of your property a neutral base, there is still plenty of fun to be had with the colour of your front door – and this can pay dividends. 

'Working in Chester, we’ve marketed four luxury period properties on the illustrious King Street, each with a distinct colour for its front door,' says Beatrice Brown, property manager at Currans Homes. 'These homes were really sought after, and we saw that people were quick to recognise the likes of "the cool house with the blue door". It’s really proved how something simple can give a home originality and unique character. People want to be a part of that.'

We love this quirky Lavender Quartz by Dulux, which is both pretty and unusual. Michael Rolland, from The Paint Shed, is also a big fan of red for a front door. 'It’s great for enhancing both a home’s playfulness and elegance,' he says. 'That signature "pop of red", can be a great way to capture an onlooker’s attention, especially when it comes to period properties with dark brickwork or exterior tiling. We’d advise a richer, cherry shade like Zinsser Allcoat Water Based Exterior Satin Tinted Colours in 04-D-45, £20.35 for 1tr.' 

If you are after an up-to-date look, Mandy Rippon, product manager at Frenchic, has another tip. 'Painting the frame the same colour as the door has a cool, contemporary look,' she says. 'This will also help make your door look bigger.'

8. Exude opulence with golden zinc

Cor-Ten is not your only colourful metal cladding option. James Dale decided to use a modern material 'to celebrate the contemporary addition, allowing the history of the home to be easily understood'. 'I find the London stock brick quite boring and drab,' says James. 'So when I'm working on an extension, I like to try to enliven the rear of a house, to create something more fun and playful.'

Here James used a zinc-copper alloy. 'It's a durable and high-quality finish, which is also aesthetically striking,' he says. And how does it age? 'A few years on, it appears less shiny and reflective – it's still very much gold, just a bit flatter,' says James. 'It nevertheless glows when caught by the sun.'  

And what if you are nervous of using striking cladding or materials? 'I'd always advise working with an architect and asking them to produce CGI renders of what the finished building will look like,' he says. 'It's also important to source samples, so you know you'll really like what you're choosing. But be brave, and embrace the process.' 

9. Match aluminium windows with dark render

Aluminium and Crittall-style windows are hugely popular at the moment, and can really pop against a pale-coloured render. But if you want a more cohesive and sophisticated look, try painted render in a darker shade with grey tones, such as charcoal or petrol blue.  

We asked Matt Withers about painted renders, and what colours he thinks work best. 'I don't think there's any hard and fast rule to be honest,' he told us. 

'We've recently worked on a project with render in a sky blue colour, which I would call reasonably conservative. But I've seen examples from other architects and designers in colours such as bright yellow, which sounds hideous but which was actually very successful. In my view, using bold colours, particularly in a simple scheme, can make quite a difference in terms of how expensive and unique a property feels.'

10. Modernise Victorian red brick

'When choosing colour for an exterior, consider the architecture, the colour of any other wall surfaces, such as brick or stone and the property’s period,' says Ruth. 'Often, an authentic colour from the era the property was designed will work well, or in the case of large masonry surfaces, a diluted version of a period colour can fit the bill.'   

But certain materials can take a bolder colour companion. 'The finish on many British homes is red brick, which partners well with strongly contrasting shades,' says Andy. 'In particular green, which provide a natural balance. Deep teal and a rich, dark brown such as Copper Beech also both look really great alongside warm red brick.' 

Juan Sanchez, RIBA chartered architect and spokesperson for HiiGuru, agrees. 'Red bricks or London stock yellow bricks works quite well with white render,' he says. 'However, they create a particularly interesting exterior when juxtaposed with dark and intense colours.' 

'When it comes to Cotswold stone, limestone and Yorkstone buildings, you'll have more success by combining the stone with render in complementary pastel colours of a similar tone and intensity, and preserving the stone as the primary feature,' advises Juan.

11. Lift tired brickwork with a paler paint

If your brickwork is looking tired, but you don't have the budget to get your house rendered, painting directly onto the surface is possible. Even just refreshing your front porch ideas will give you a new look.

'Lighter, neutral shades work brilliantly to brighten the exterior feel of older masonry, and colours with blue undertones help to freshen things up,' advises Jemma Saunders at Sandtex. 'These hues develop beautifully in different natural light levels, creating warmth and richness throughout the day.

'For more traditional homes, painting directly onto brick creates a really modern feel and a creamy white shade instantly lifts an older property,' Jemma adds. 'It’s also a great practical step to protecting your home, with exterior products such as Sandtex’s Microseal Masonry Paint (available at B&Q), giving up to 15 years of durable protection against the elements and helping your home to stay on trend for longer.'

FAQs

Which colour is best for the exterior of houses?

'Colours are a very subjective topic. What can stir a positive emotion in some can have the opposite effect on others, so there's no definitive "right" answer,' says Juan Sanchez. 'However, I would say that in the last few years, trends have steered towards pastel and soft colours rather than intense and strong shades.'

'There are many colour combinations that work well on the exterior of homes,' says Francesca's Paints founder, colourist Francesca Wezel. 'A classic white wall and black trim can look timeless and elegant. Neutral tones like beige, grey or taupe can be elevated with a vibrant pop of colour like red, green or navy on the front door or on shutters.' 

'A monochromatic scheme is always stylish – for example, light grey walls with darker grey accents,' she adds. 'Earthy tones, like olive, brown and cream can be combined to create a balanced and harmonious look that blends well with natural surroundings.' However, Juan is quick to point out that certain circumstances might limit your freedom of choice. 

'Sometimes, you may be restricted to a certain palette or even a specific colour under planning regulations,' he warns. 'This may be to maintain a specific atmosphere and appearance in conservation areas.'

How do I choose the right exterior colour for my house?

'When choosing colour for the inside of your home, you’re doing it for yourself – you are the person who lives in the space and it’s your own eyes that appreciate those choices,' says Andy Greenall. 'However, choosing colours for the outside of your house is inevitably a more public display; hence the first aim for most exterior redecoration is normally to smarten things up.'

'But there is then an (often unconscious) secondary offer of a subtle insight into your personality; whether it’s an extremely tasteful combination of colours, a cheerful yellow front door or a pristine gloss finish,' he adds.

'The colour choices you make for your exterior can have a transformative effect on the building, offering the chance to make a bold statement, be more discreet with a subtle and sophisticated design, or blend seamlessly with the original character of a period property; so be clear from the outset with what you want to achieve, before you start sampling colours,' Andy continues.

'In the same way you would look at paint colours alongside curtain fabrics and furnishings, consider the architectural elements of your exterior too,' adds Ruth. Do you have red or yellow tone bricks, limestone or granite walls, what colour are your roof tiles? Build these into your design scheme to ensure your paint choices are complementary.'

Should exterior paint be lighter or darker?

'Whether going light or dark is the right choice depends on multiple factors, including your property's location, orientation and position in relation to other houses,' says Juan Sanchez. 

If your door and/or facade faces south and therefore gets warm quickly, paler colours may be a better choice as they reflect light and have less solar gain, so can help keep your home cooler in summer.

North-facing façades can be trickier. Because they never receive direct sunlight, you may find a lighter colour feels brighter and more appealing. But equally a dark colour can help trap heat and make the house warmer. 'This is why, generally speaking, Mediterranean homes tend to be painted in white or light colours, whereas northern European homes are darker and more intense,' says Juan. 'Think a white Greek island home versus a Nordic home with black cladding.'

There are other environmental circumstances to take into account, too. For example, if you live on a busy main road with a lot of traffic and therefore pollution, you may notice that a light exterior appears dirtier more quickly, and needs regular repainting.   

Timber, zinc, slate, glass, stone, concrete, plastic, steel, clay… the possibilities for cladding are endless.

For most of our history the material you saw on the outside of a building was also its structure. Stone and brick walls held up the roof and floors as well as providing the external finish and weathering layer.  The main exception was timber frame houses and barns, where structure was provided by a frame with timber boarding, lime plaster or clay tiles on the exterior. 

As technology has evolved with steel, concrete and more advanced timber frames the role of structure for buildings has become increasingly separated from providing the weathering envelope. 

This opens up many opportunities; reducing the thickness of the external layer to allow for more insulation in the same depth of wall, using low embodied energy materials like wood and recycled plastics to many more choices when considering appearance. 

There is also a long tradition of changing the appearance of buildings with cladding; from clean render transforming a brick terrace to timber panels lifting a tired semi. The thought of wrapping up your home like a giant present is appealing and the options are almost endless.

With so much choice there is an art to making the right decisions around cladding. Beyond pure aesthetics, the choice should be heavily guided by location. 

Wood is not good on a damp, north or sheltered wall. I would be very nervous of using steel anywhere near the sea whatever the warrantee! I’ve seen timber cladding five or six stories up on a block of flats and wondered how on earth it’s maintained! 

As much as I I love slate and clay tiles as a wall cladding, the damage a 12 year old with a football can cause in 20 minutes is definitely worth considering. It is all about the right material in the right place.

Local building style has a crucial influence too. I’ve had a frankly bizarre conversation with a planning officer who once told me, ‘it has been decided this is not a timber cladding area!’ This, despite the village having lots of timber agricultural buildings, sheds, as well as several timber houses. It was very odd, but the fact remains that if you are in a sensitive area the choice of your cladding is something planning departments are interested in. 

Check the local design guide on the council website before you finalise any choice. Replacing like for like cladding can be done using permitted development rights but a change in material or a increase in the size of structure due to cladding needs permission; always ask the planners before you launch into any work.

It is vital to remember that the main role of cladding, especially in the UK, is to keep the weather out! Good detailing is key to this but it is also key to it looking and lasting well, whatever the material. 

Once you’ve decided on your cladding type, look at as many projects as you can that use it and try to understand the subtleties of what makes it look right. There are timber clad homes for example, that look elegant and amazing after years whilst others can look like crap from the get go and even worse after a few winters. It is care and attention, using the right material in the right way, that is the deciding factor in this.

The breadth of choice can seem daunting, especially as each type of cladding has its own special needs. For example, timber cladding has several areas that must be got right; detail around windows, choice of board width and setting out so you minimise cuts and don’t end up with slithers of wood here and there. 

The fixings, whether nails or screws need to be carefully planned and lined up or it will looks messy. You must maintain ventilation behind the timber to stop moisture build up whilst keeping out insects. 

I could go on and on for all the different materials and types of cladding and annoyingly the devil and beauty lies in getting these details right! 

But don’t despair, as with much in building, lots of research and a good installer will see you right and open the door to the amazing possibilities of cladding.

The use of external plaster or render goes back nearly 10,000 years. Its potential to effortlessly transform a tired old house into something sleek and sophisticated with a few waves of a plasterer’s arm is undoubtedly alluring. Combined with the use of external insulation this transformation can not only be aesthetic, but comfortable and sustainable too.

The same benefits also apply to new builds but be warned, rendering a house is hard to get right and even harder to keep looking good.

The benefits of rendering a house

Where many materials used for exterior cladding soften and look better with age, render rarely does. The moment it’s finished and perfect is when the render is at its best. However this can be avoided by careful design and specification.

1. It allows the building to breathe

To achieve your flawless vision you need to start with some physics and understand how your building breathes. The idea of a ‘breathing building’ may sound weird but all buildings absorb and release moisture; this is known as its breathability. This moisture is not from driving rain (although this contributes) but is mostly water vapour that cooking, showering and breathing produces.

This moisture generally moves from inside to outside through the walls of your home. Older buildings, especially without DPCs (Damp Proof Course) are very moisture permeable and rely on this to keep dry. Therefore the render you put on the outside of your house has to match the breathability of your existing walls or you will trap moisture within the structure and create a problem, resulting in looking at how to get rid of damp.

2. It's suitable for older buildings or modern properties

There are traditional and modern lime plasters that work really well with older buildings and more modern cavity walls also benefit from a vapour open (breathable) render to ensure you don’t get damp, and possibly mould, in your home.

If water does get trapped in your walls by a non-breathable render or exterior paint it can cause the top finish to blister and fail which looks like an outbreak of boils!

3. Good detailing ensures no cracking or staining

Getting breathability right is all about specification and is the first step. Next is to ensure you don’t get cracking or staining, this is all about good detailing.

As the temperature swings between day and night, summer and winter, buildings grow and shrink so carefully located expansion joints are needed to allow for movement between sections of render rather than in the render itself. This will stop your beautiful surface cracking.

Perhaps worse than cracking is weathering stains around windows, overhangs and gutters. Preventing this is again about careful detailing especially around windows and doors and ensuring your gutters are working properly.

4. It can improve thermal performance

If I’m being honest, I have mixed feelings about the appearance of render. It can be well done, but is often bland. However, I am a huge fan of render with exterior insulation. This is insulation fixed to the exterior of a house that is usually rendered to provide waterproofing.

Given that an average house loses about 40% of its heat through the walls, wrapping them up transforms both air tightness (reducing draughts) and thermal performance. It allows for a sustainable makeover without the expense and inconvenience of internal wall insulation, which means redoing most of the rooms after installation.

Insulating render may be worth considering if you are looking to improve thermal performance.

5. A professional installer will ensure a perfect finish.

It is important to do your research to understand the basics and crucially find a reputable, skilled installer. I always recommend visiting their previous projects and specifically something that was finished a few years ago as ageing is critical to successful render. When correctly installed and combined with some thoughtful design, external insulation will mean your home can look great, and be comfortable and affordable to heat.

The exterior of a property forms part of its kerb appeal. It's why rendering a house is so popular. Yet this type of exterior cladding has more benefits than just aesthetics. It can protect the exterior of your home, too.

From the smart stucco on Georgian townhouses to post-war pebble-dash, colourful monocouche, modern silicone and traditional lime, there are various types of renders. These different materials, not only provide different looks, they're generally suitable for certain types of properties too.

'The render choice and its application method need to match the property and its location,' says Sam Piplica, MRICS, RICS Senior Specialist, Building Standards, Royal Institute of Chartered Surveyors. 'For example, the west side of Britain is more exposed to extremes of weather and storms. So the correct type of render can improve the resistance of the wall to rain penetration, if it's kept in good condition.'

Choosing an insulating render can also help boost your home's thermal performance too.

Rendering a house – the lowdown

The purpose of render is typically to improve external appearance, keep water out and increase resistance to weather. So render should only be applied to an existing building if the walls are sound and free of damp.

'Firstly, consider the type of construction of the wall and in particular, how does the existing construction manage water,' says Sam Piplica, MRICS, RICS Senior Specialist, Building Standards.

'Before rendering, somebody needs to identify and understand any defects, assess the exposure of the property, specify a suitable product and think about the tricky details. This is so that important decisions aren’t made on the fly on site. Homeowners can do this but if they lack the time or expertise, a chartered building surveyor can help.'

What are the different types of render?

Cement render

This is one of the cheaper options and gives a smooth finish but it's not appropriate for older buildings with solid (non-cavity) walls. It's prone to cracking, so needs to be kept in impeccable condition. It also requires repainting every few years.

'Cement based render applied to a solid wall will prevent water evaporation on the outside of the structure,' says  Sam Piplica, Building Standards Specialist. 'This means if the water can’t go outside, it will go inside. Even when used appropriately it needs to be well maintained. If it’s allowed to crack and rainwater gets behind it, the water cannot evaporate through it. This will cause problems inside and outside.' 

Lime render

This is more expensive than cement render and is usually used on traditional timber-framed homes. 'Lime renders would normally be used on older properties that are damp or properties where the airflow needs to be increased,' says plasterer Graeme Rudd.

Silicone render

'Silicone renders are excellent for low maintenance, longevity and crack resistance,' says Rated People's Kastriot Reka of First Renderers. 'They’re lightweight and breathable, good water repellents, and are available in a choice of colours. They can also be installed with exterior insulation.'

Monocouche (through-coloured) render

This is a cement-based render with colour embedded within, so there is no need to paint it. It can be applied to most brickwork, stonework and masonry construction with a polymer base. It has the flexibility of traditional lime render and is a low maintenance option.

Acrylic render

This type of render has an acrylic resin added to the mix to make it more water-resistant and flexible. They're also available in different colours, however they're the least breathable.

Cork-based render

This is a relatively new material in the UK and more eco-friendly than other types of render. It can be applied to brick and cavity walls, over existing (undamaged) render and used for patch repairs. It's resistant to sea salt too, so it's great for coastal properties.

'Flexibility and elasticity are two of cork’s properties, so it's highly durable,' says Joff Ward, managing director, CorkSol UK.  'Spray cork render has been proven to reduce heat loss through solid walls by 30%,  and has noise reduction qualities. It has a lower carbon footprint and stays cleaner longer than the alternatives.'

Can I mix materials?

It's increasingly on trend to cover a house in more than one type of material. Combinations of render and timber cladding are especially popular, and you can see why!

But if you are planning to mix finishes, bear in mind the added cost to your renovations. Using smaller quantities of more materials will be expensive, as will employing the different tradespeople to apply them. You'll also need to ensure that the materials are installed in the right order, with a clean junction between them.

Rendering a brick house

'If a house has not previously been rendered, the first question to ask is, why render it now? Why not carry out suitable repairs to the existing materials?,' says Sam Piplica, Building Standards Specialist. 'Render is not as hard-wearing as traditional masonry bricks. So if it's for aesthetic reasons, say to cover damaged brickwork, be aware that render also requires maintenance to keep it in good condition. Just as brickwork should also be maintained.

Determining whether existing render can be patched is more eco-friendly than replacing it. Lime and cement-based products have large carbon footprints due to the manufacturing process, so maintaining a building uses less materials than new work over its lifecycle.'

Rendering a timber-framed house

Avoid any renders that are not breathable. Silicone or cork offer breathability and resist the growth of algae or mould, so are suitable. However, historic properties need careful assessment. 'Always seek specialist advice before undertaking restoration or repairs to a traditionally-built timber framed house, ideally someone with the RICS Building Conservation Accreditation who’s a certified historic building professional,' says Sam Piplica.  

Rendering a terraced house

If you live in a row of terraces, consider how a rendered facade on your home will look in relation to your neighbours. Prevent any potential disputes, by letting them know what you're planning in advance.

Rendering a pebble dash house

 Pebble dash can be rendered over, as long as it is in good condition. 'If you're adding to the wall thickness, there may be details around guttering and downpipes, boiler flues and drainage pipes which have to be addressed,' says Mark Brinkley, author of the Housebuilders Bible.

'An experienced crew will know how to handle these, but rushed jobs done for a cheap price can lead to disappointment. Also check that the added depth of your proposed new wall covering won’t impinge on access arrangements or neighbour's property.'

How much to render a house?

This will depend on various factors including the type of property and location. 'In general it depends on the prep work needed and the condition of the existing house,' says Rated People's Michael Van Vilet of DPR. 'Prices would likely start around £5,000 but could go much higher depending on the size and condition of the property.'

Does rendering a house add value?

 'If it’s tired looking and the existing exterior is in poor repair, then a fresh coat of render will almost certainly lift the value of the home,' says Mark Brinkley, author of the Housebuilders Bible. 'But if the house has attractive detailing, such as fine brickwork, which matches the neighbouring properties, then new render can detract from the overall appearance.'

Can I render walls myself?

To ensure the render does its job, we recommend employing a professional to do it properly. In addition, thermal insulation requires specialist knowledge and compliance with Building Regulations. 

'Rendering is normally a 2-3 person job, and large areas need to be done in one set, so it's not advisable to do it yourself,' says Rated People's Graeme Rudd of Graeme Rudd Plastering. 'Insulation can also be added and rendered over to increase your home’s energy efficiency and increase its value.''

'Rendering is something of an art and it takes years to master,' says Mark Brinkley, author of the Housebuilders Bible. 'Badly applied render can look dreadful. Do check the standards of the people you imply and ask to see their previous work.'

Do you need planning permission for rendering a house?

Planning permission is not usually necessary, unless you live in a conservation area or AONB.

If you want to re-render external walls, building regulations may apply, depending on the extent of the work. So check with your local planning department.

If your property is listed and part of a group of properties, it may be the case that your render will need to be a specific RAL or British Standard (BS) colour. Check your deeds and paperwork carefully before you start.

There are numerous reasons why you might want to add exterior cladding to your home. It might be because your a fan of the weather board look so popular in the US. Or perhaps you are just looking for a way to cover unsightly pebbledash on a period property.

Discover more ways to transform your home with our project planning advice

This is a growing home renovation trend, and our guide on exterior cladding will allow you to create the perfect look, whatever or wherever your home is.

What is exterior cladding?

Cladding is the skin of your house – it’s the outer layer that helps to insulate and protect it from the elements, and it enhances your home’s appearance, too.

When it comes to how much cladding costs, that will depend on the area you want to clad, and the material you choose. Brick, stone and render are familiar options, with timber weatherboarding, vertical tiling, flint, metal and modern synthetic materials used less frequently.

Want more project advice and planning tips? Read: How to build an extension

What materials can you use for exterior cladding?

It has become quite fashionable to use more than one type of cladding – this could take the form of combining timber with render or brickwork panels, to something altogether more modern.

That said, the more finishes you add, the more complex your design becomes. Not only will you need to buy relatively small quantities of materials, and possibly employ several different trades, but junctions between materials will need to be considered, too.

1. Brickwork

Exposed bricks are the most popular choice, but how they’re made will affect their look, qualities and price. Your bricklayer should discuss bonding patterns, mortar colours and joint details with you.

2. Stone

This natural material isn’t a budget option, but there are less expensive artificial or reconstituted alternatives available, too.

3. Timber cladding

While timber needs more maintenance than stone or brickwork, it is cheaper. Oak and cedar may be left untreated to weather to a silver-grey, while softwood boarding usually needs painting or staining.

4. Composite weatherboard

Although composite weatherboarding usually costs more than timber, it is often pre-finished, will not warp or twist and is extremely fire resistant.

5. Metal

Zinc, copper, stainless steel or aluminium are ideal for modern builds, as they’re striking, malleable and lightweight. They’re also quick to put up and are highly resilient.

What are the rules for cladding a house?

You don’t usually need to apply for planning permission for repairs, maintenance or minor improvements, such as painting your house, but if you live in a sensitive location such as a conservation area, you will need permission before completely changing the cladding.

If you want to re-render or replace timber cladding to external walls, building regulations may also apply depending on the extent of the work. Cladding can contribute to the spread of fire, so always liaise with building control and planners for advice.

Related: Planning permission – everything you need to know

Will you be incorporating exterior cladding on your home?

Who doesn't love George Clarke? Any man that can get emotional over a makeover is a hero in our book, and we're always interested in what he has to say – particularly if it's about homes and house building. Recently, George has taken to Instagram to share his thoughts on exterior cladding – you can find him @MrGeorgeClarke.

More celeb opinion: Sarah Beeny has been sharing her views on wood-burning stoves – do you agree?

It's been a hot topic since the Grenfell Tower fire, where flammable cladding installed in its renovation is believed to have led to the rapid spread of the fire. Poor cladding has also been shown to create cavities that draw fire up a building, in a chimney effect. It's an issue that the Amazing Spaces presenter is clearly passionate about, for aesthetic and – more importantly – safety reasons.

After spotting this property on his travels this week, George felt compelled to post about it. 'This development isn't really that old,' he says, 'and look at the state of it! Awful! A badly designed and built cladding system that now needs to be replaced, no doubt at considerable cost.'

Talking about the disruption it will cause to replace the cladding, George adds 'It could have all been avoided had the right design and build standards been applied in the first place.' And plenty of people agree with him. The post already has nearly 1,700 likes and lots of comments in agreement. Vee8design says, 'Seeing this more and more. Nothing seems to be built to last'.

Carolinaasmar6 had a stronger view, commenting, 'Why is cladding so popular? It is UGLY. I am yet to walk past a building covered in the stuff and think “wow, look at that beautiful design and craftsmanship”. Usually the words “overgrown fridge” pop into my head when I see it'.

This isn't the first time George has raised awareness of cladding issues. Only last month he posted this appeal to developers Lendlease.

George believes building owners should be responsible for removing potentially dangerous cladding. Certain types of Aluminium Composite Material (ACM) cladding have already been flagged by the Ministry of Housing as being 'a significant hazard on buildings over 18m'. He's adamant that the cost of replacing it shouldn't be passed on to leaseholders directly, or through higher service charges. 'Residents definitely shouldn't have to pay and their lives are at risk in this building every day,' he says.

Love George? George Clarke's Old House, New Home – our favourite makeovers from the first series

In another post, George reveals that he's met with leaseholders at Cypress Place and Vallea Court, Manchester. 'I saw first hand how much stress and anxiety the flammable #claddingscandal is causing to so many residents. @lendleaseuk need to step up NOW to fully confirm that leaseholders aren’t forced to pay £18k+ each to make their homes safe. This has gone on long enough. Some small positive steps have been taken but @lendlease need to do the right thing and make the full and total commitment that is needed so people in this building can sleep safe in their homes at night.'

As George says, it seems there's definitely more to be done to protect residents against potentially dangerous cladding. Would suspicious cladding put you off renting or buying a house or apartment?