Latest from Ideal Home in Diy

I avoided skirting boards in my lime-plastered spare room and used this unusual rustic alternative instead

Amy Reeves — Mon, 06 Jul 2026 16:20:00 +0000

Skirting boards have always been one of those things I never ever questioned in a house. They’re in every room you go into, so constant you don’t often register them. It was only when we finished lime plastering our 300-year-old cottage guest room with incredibly wobbly walls that we realised that skirting boards just weren’t going to be an option.

So, we went about looking for alternatives to wood or plastic that wouldn’t look out of place alongside engineered wood flooring in a cosy cottage guest bedroom.

After looking into the different options, including tile, plaster or a completely bare wall, we’ve installed a bit of a rogue choice - rope! I know it sounds awful, but it honestly looks really good.

Why do most houses use skirting boards?

Traditionally, skirting boards perform two functions. One, it allows ground floor rooms to have a moisture gap between the floor and the plaster itself and two, it hides the often ugly joint between plaster and the floor.

‘Skirting boards became popular during the 18th and 19th centuries, when they became an important part of home design,’ begins Natalia de Arteaga, an Interior Designer at Planner 5D. ‘In older houses, they were not only practical but also decorative. Their detailed and elegant designs helped make rooms look more beautiful and gave spaces better proportions.'

A bedroom with tradition skirting board (Image credit: Future PLC)

‘Today, skirting boards are still an important part of interior design. They create a clean transition between the floor and the wall while also protecting the lower part of the walls from bumps, scratches, and everyday wear,' she adds.

‘In many of my own homes, I think of the skirting as the 'red thread' that runs throughout a home,’ adds Interior Designer Wendy Morrison. ‘It is one of the few elements that can remain consistent from room to room, quietly connecting different spaces into a cohesive whole.’

If I’m honest, I kind of dislike the look of skirting boards in general and definitely resent the price and the effort to install them - and I don't think I'm the only one! More modern alternatives to skirting boards have seen the rise of shadow gaps, whereby a layer of plaster boards is fitted a centimetre or so off the ground and skimmed for a contemporary finish. Unfortunately, the added cost for materials and labour for this style means it is out of the picture for many, including me, and it just wouldn't be possible with the cosy aesthetic I was going for.

‘I do believe every home should respect its architectural story rather than follow trends. The finish will be much more authentic,’ continues Wendy Morrison. ‘Georgian homes often suit taller, more decorative skirting because that's how they were originally proportioned, while Victorian interiors frequently feature deeper profiles with richer detailing. In cottages, simplicity often feels more real.’

Why couldn’t we use normal skirting boards?

After removing the damp-creating concrete render from our stone walls, I replastered using an insulated lime and a fine finishing plaster. I love wibbly-wobbly cottages, so I followed the stones’ form fairly closely, only building up mass where I really needed to. The result looks soft and lived-in, but the only truly straight, flat wall in the room is a stud wall we built.

(Image credit: Future/Amy Reeves)

'I would say imperfection is one of the greatest luxuries in an old home,' says Wendy Morrison. 'Crooked walls, uneven floors and centuries of movement tell a story that no new build can replicate. Rather than trying to straighten every line, I prefer to work with the character, using natural materials and craftsmanship to celebrate its individuality.'

Once the engineered wood flooring was down and scribed to the wall, we really took in just how distorted any skirting would have to be to fit and even then it wouldn’t look great.

What have we used instead?

(Image credit: Future/Amy Reeves)

Traditionally, old workers’ cottages like ours would not have had the wall panelling that grander houses of the Jacobians and Tudors used before skirting. The lime plaster would have reached the flagstone floor, and any board would have wicked up the moisture and created damp.

While there are some fantastic design alternatives to wooden boards, including tile, wainscoting and plaster-made skirting, we liked the idea of representing the cottage’s humble origins and leaving the lime plaster going all the way to the floor.

‘Plaster skirting boards are made directly on site, so they can be shaped to fit perfectly between the wall and the floor, or even between the wall and the ceiling,’ explains Natalia de Arteaga. ‘They can also be customised with almost any profile or design, making them a great choice for traditional or historic homes.’

(Image credit: Future / Amy Reeves)

That being said, our flooring needs an expansion gap between the wall and the edge. Our solution to this is using a mid-sized rope. Rope is often used in conservation projects such as ours and allows for the joins between flooring and wall to be more visually appealing.

Now, bear with me. We haven’t gone for a fully nautical-themed room, completely with blue and white stripes and a porthole so it doesn’t look all that twee. In fact, I went for a deliberately fun colour - Naples Yellow by Edward Bulmer - to counter the heritage look.

Natalia adds: ‘This is one of the most affordable and creative options. Because it's flexible, it can easily follow walls that aren't perfectly straight. It also adds a warm, natural, and rustic feel to a space.’

RopesDirect

Jute/PP Rope

18m of jute rope at a 20mm thickness cost us £38, which is a fraction of what it would have cost to board with MDF (plus priming, painting and installing) and took about 10 minutes to fix into place. At the moment we have just have it snug in the gaps between the wall and the floor, but if we find it lift in time, we will fix with fittings to secure it down.

What is the verdict now the room is complete?

While I think the rope trim looks really effective in this room, I’m not sure I’m going to continue it elsewhere in the cottage. This room was by far the most wibby-wobbly in its walls, and we’re not using engineered wood - and therefore no expansion gap - anywhere else.

(Image credit: Future / Amy Reeves)

‘Skirting boards may seem like a small detail, but they can completely change the look and feel of a room. Their height, thickness, material, and design all have an impact on how a space looks,’ says Natalia de Arteaga. ‘That's why it's important to choose skirting boards that fit the style of your home. When they're chosen well, they don't look like something that was added later, they feel like they belong and help tie the whole design together.’

‘I would be inclined to retain skirting where possible, even in an old cottage,’ argues Wendy Morrison. ‘The profile doesn't need to be elaborate, but I see skirting as an important architectural element that grounds a room and creates continuity throughout a home.

(Image credit: Future / Amy Reeves)

‘Alternative materials can work beautifully in older homes where walls and floors have settled over time, but they should always feel sympathetic to the building's character.

‘For me, the most successful period homes are those where every detail feels intentional. If you're introducing an unconventional alternative to traditional skirting, it should enhance the architecture rather than become a novelty. Natural materials tend to age more gracefully and allow the character of the building to remain the focus.’

While this look worked for my lime-plastered spare room, it has not persuaded me to give up on skirting boards completely.

I saved over £500 by reupholstering my dream footstool myself - here's how I used secondhand finds to make it happen

Holly Cockburn — Wed, 01 Jul 2026 11:00:00 +0000

I recently undertook my very first upholstery project - creating a bespoke headboard and upholstering it from scratch, and it's safe to say it's given me the bug.

So, I decided a footstool for my living room was the next DIY project on the agenda. I've long admired upholstered footstools, mainly in designer fabrics, but with prices starting from £500 and going up to £1000, I knew that trying it myself was the only option.

After watching countless DIY tutorials on YouTube, I decided to buy a worse-for-wear £20 footstool from Facebook Marketplace to use as the base for my project. I sourced everything else needed secondhand apart from the tools, which ended up costing me around £100. Here's how I did it, and what I learned.

Future PLC / Holly Cockburn

What you'll need

(Image credit: Future PLC / Holly Cockburn)

Staple gun & 10mm staples (Amazon)
Air compressor (Amazon) (optional)
Ruler (Amazon)
Upholstery foam (Dunelm)
Polyester wadding (Amazon)
Piping cord (Amazon)
Sewing machine (John Lewis)
Flexible metal tack strips (Amazon)
Pliers (Amazon)
Staple remover (Amazon)
Cardboard back tacking (Amazon)
Spray adhesive (Amazon)
2m fabric of your choice (I got mine on Vinted)

1. Strip the footstool

(Image credit: Future PLC / Holly Cockburn)

I found this footstool on Facebook Marketplace, and aside from the unappealing brown colour, it was also stained, so it had to be fully ripped apart.

I started by unpicking the staples and peeling back the layers of fabric, foam and wadding underneath. I will warn you - this was a long part of the process, so leave plenty of time to fully take it apart. I was tempted to cut corners, but I knew the result would be better by fully unpicking all the staples.

The staple remover was essential for this part. You can pick one up from Amazon for around £5, it's worth it for how much it will save your nails.

At this stage, I also removed the feet and left them aside for later.

2. Adhere the foam and poly wadding

(Image credit: Future / Holly Cockburn)

Once the footstool was stripped back to the wooden base and hessian top, it was time to add my own foam and polyester wadding. You can buy these from upholstery wholesalers online and high street stores like Dunelm, but I found a bundle of each on Facebook Marketplace for around £10 each.

Using spray adhesive, I glued the base and the foam top then pushed down to adhere the foam to the base. I then cut the excess foam off using a sharp knife so that it fit the size of the base perfectly.

Polyester wadding is then used to create the soft edges that you see on footstools. I simply laid this over the foam top then used my staple gun to staple beneath the top section, to create the shape. I then stapled along the very bottom of the wadding and base.

3. Attach the top fabric panel

(Image credit: Future / Holly Cockburn)

Now for the fun part! I used Linwood's beautiful Helter Skelter fabric for my footstool. I found around 1.5m of this on Vinted for £13, which was an absolute bargain and covered most of the footstool. The rest I sourced directly from Linwood. 2m overall should be enough - but you may need more if you have an intricate pattern that requires matching.

I laid this over the footstool, making sure to position the pattern evenly. I then used the staple gun to tack it in place on either side, before repositioning and stapling all along the edge to secure.

You will need to pull the fabric tightly, but make sure that you are checking how the pattern looks each time you do this.

4. Create the piping

(Image credit: Future PLC / Holly Cockburn)

After trimming the excess fabric away, I set to work on creating the piping. I cut out 4 x 2.5 inch strips which I measured along the edges of the footstool.

Placing a length of piping cord within each of these 2.5 inch strips, I then sewed along the edge to secure the cord with a sewing machine.

It was then a case of attaching this piping to the footstool. I positioned it piping side-up, as shown above, making sure to cover the raw edge of the top fabric. I then stapled it down.

5. Attach the side panels

(Image credit: Future PLC / Holly Cockburn)

The side panels were the trickiest part. Matching the squiggle detail of Helter Skelter meant carefully lining up the fabric before cutting each panel, and then folding over and pinning in place.

This is the fiddly part - using the cardboard tacking strip, place this within the folded down edge and staple along, as close to the piping as possible. This prevents there from being any gaps between the piping and the side panels.

Keep checking that the pattern matches as you staple along, adjusting as you go.

6. Secure the sides

(Image credit: Future PLC / Holly Cockburn)

When I unpicked the footstool in step 1, there were these metal tacking strips in each corner, so I decided to reuse them.

When creating the seams between each corner, you staple down the right side of the tacking strip which sits on top of one piece of fabric. After trimming the opposite side, you then fold this over the left of the tacking strip and hammer down (make sure to hammer over a towel).

This creates a super neat seam on the corner and means you don't need to handsew it closed.

(Image credit: Future PLC / Holly Cockburn)

7. Attach the base & feet

(Image credit: Future PLC / Holly Cockburn)

The final step is to attach the backing fabric and screw on the feet. I bought this roll of black upholstery backing from Amazon which I cut to size, then stapled along the edges of the base.

I pierced a hole using scissors in the same place that the original foot-hole was, then hammered in the back plate and screws. It was then a case of simply screwing the wooden feet back in.

The finished product

(Image credit: Future PLC / Holly Cockburn)

And voila! Is it a little rough around the edges if you look closely? Sure. But for the sake of saving £500, if not more, I am thrilled with the result.

It feels super plush and comfortable to rest your feet on, but looks equally as chic styled up with my Addison Ross tray.

It goes to show that it's entirely possible to create something that looks shiny and new using only secondhand resources. I didn't include my tools in this cost as I already owned them, but you can buy a staple gun for around £20 from B&Q, or head to your local Library of Things to borrow one.

Shop the project

Linwood

Helter Skelter Slate

I've long admired Linwood's Helter Skelter print - it comes in so many colours as well as a velvet finish, so you can tailor it to match your interior.

John Lewis

John Lewis Jl110 Sewing Machine, Soft Pink

This is the sewing machine I own - it's simple and fuss-free but does the job. I love how many colours it comes in too.

Amazon

2 in 1 Electric Nail Gun for Wood

I used a staple gun with an air compressor as I already owned it, however, an electric staple gun will do the job just as well.

Dunelm

Upholstery Foam 56 X 100cm

These sheets of upholstery foam from Dunelm are exactly what you need - make sure you measure before you buy and choose the right thickness for your desired footstool height.

Amazon

Polyester Wadding

Check your local resale sites for offcuts of poly wadding like I did - but if not, this roll from Amazon will do the job.

Amazon

10 Metres - 13mm Wide Cardboard Tacking Strip

Cardboard tacking strip is essential for an upholstery project so don't cut corners by skipping this step.

There are so many resources online to learn the skill of upholstery - I particularly loved Pucci Upholstery on Instagram and picked this project up by following her videos.

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I fixed my leaking toilet for £9 and in less time than it would take to get a plumber round

Sarah Handley — Fri, 22 May 2026 09:46:09 +0000

While I'm normally on top of my home maintenance in the hopes of staving off more serious issues down the line, I will admit that my leaky loo had been on the to do list for an embarrassing amount of time.

Rather than a serious leak or weird bathroom smells (which I definitely would have called out a professional to resolve much sooner), my issue was more of an occasional drip, stemming from a very old bolt and a failed washer. After doing a little bit of research, it seemed like an easy DIY project for me to fix it myself, and save a bit of money at the same time.

If you have a similar problem and want to fix it yourself, it's definitely something even a novice DIYer could tackle. This is what you will need and exactly how I did it.

You will need:

Flat head screwdriver
Toilet repair kit, like this universal toilet repair kit from Amazon (£8.99)
Sponge
Washing up bowl (or similar container)
Old towel/cloth
You may also need a socket wrench, like this one from B&Q

1. Remove the water from the cistern

(Image credit: Future PLC/ Sarah Handley)

As the failed bolt essentially connects the cistern to bowl, I needed to drain the water from the cistern so that I could access the old bolt and replace it without flooding my bathroom.

First up that meant turning off the water supply to the toilet. If you're not sure how to do this, look for a flexible pipe at the back of your toilet. The isolation valve will be on that flexible pipe, and it'll have a straight slot that follows the line of the pipe. I used a flat head screwdriver in the slot to turn the isolation valve 90° clockwise (so the straight slot should be horizontal across the pipe rather than in line with it).

Then I flushed the toilet, which emptied about 80% of the water from the cistern, removed the cistern lid, and used a sponge to soak up the last of the water, squeezing it out into my collapsible washing up bowl. You could use an old cloth or towel for this part, but in my experience, the sponge is much easier to wring out.

Just make sure to wet the sponge first — it soaks up much more water that way.

Beldray Collapsible Washing Up Bowl

I keep a collapsible washing up bowl for DIY related activities so I don't have to use my actual washing up bowl. I find this Beldray one a good size and easy to store.

Sakura

Sakura Jumbo Sponge

Using a large sponge like this one made quick work of getting the last of the water out of the cistern. Plus it's incredible easy to wring out.

Magnusson standard flat head screwdriver

You'll need a flat head screwdriver to turn off the water supply to your toilet so that you can drain the cistern.

2. Remove the old bolt

Future PLC/ Sarah Handley

Future

Once the cistern was empty of water, I started to remove the old bolt by unscrewing the nuts and removing the metal and rubber washers from underneath the cistern. This part took me quite a long time, not because it was difficult, but because there was a nut hiding from sight. But once I managed to remove that final nut, I could pull the bolt straight out.

For this part, I didn't need any tools, but you may need a socket wrench to remove the nuts if they are on too tight to be removed by hand.

FIX IT Universal Socket Wrench

If you struggle to remove the nuts by hand, you may need a socket wrench to help you remove them. It can adjust to fit 48 different sizes and it's ideal for working in tight spaces.

The cistern will be attached to the bowl by two bolts, one on each side. There are two replacement bolts in the kit I bought, as well as a foam gasket that is designed to sit where the cistern meets the bowl. My existing gasket was still working fine, so I didn't need replace this part.

Once I'd removed the old bolt, there was a bit of debris from the old one left in the cistern so I used an old cloth to remove as much of this as I could.

3. Fit the new bolt

There were no instructions included with my toilet repair kit, so I'd paid attention to how the old bolt was fitted and it was simply a matter of doing the same in reverse when fitting the new one.

The repair kit included corrosion-resistance M6 bolts, nuts and washers, with each part already threaded in the right order, which was an extra reassurance on how to fit it properly.

I was sure to apply enough pressure to be certain of a watertight fit, but was cautious not to be too heavy handed in case I cause damage to the porcelain.

Universal Toilet Repair Kit

This universal toilet repair kit will suit most standard toilets, and includes bolts, nuts and washers, plus foam gaskets to fix most cistern leaks.

4. Check the seal with a bit of water

I like to err on the side of caution, so before turning the water back on and while the washing up bowl was around to catch any drips, I poured a couple of cups of water back in the cistern, right over the replaced bolt and waited to see if there were any leaks.

Fortunately, there weren't so I felt confident enough to turn the water back on, by turning the isolation valve 90° anticlockwise. The cistern refilled, and I gave it a couple of flushes to check again for any leaks. And there were none, so I consider this a success!

FAQs

Should you attempt to fix plumbing issues yourself?

Doing some simple home repairs can be a good way to save some money. But while it can be tempting to tackle plumbing issues on a DIY basis, you'll only save money if it's within your skillset to rectify. Things like fixing a running toilet, or replacing a failed bolt (like I did) are usually within the capabilities of a DIYer.

However, if you try to take on more complex repair work, you could inadvertently make a problem worse by trying to tackle it yourself.

Before you start, do your research and a thorough investigation to ensure you have identified the problem correctly, and if in doubt, call a plumber.

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My dog chewed my skirting boards — this is exactly how I fixed them for £5 in under 30 minutes, and you'd never know

Sarah Handley — Tue, 19 May 2026 14:00:00 +0000

I'll be honest, in the grand scheme of things in my house, my skirting boards don't get much of my attention. However, the same cannot be said for my dog, Blossom, when she was going through her teething phase.

While much of my furniture escaped unscathed from her toothy interest, that was not the case for the skirting boards in my kitchen, and for months, my eyes have zeroed in on those chewed and scratched corners whenever I step into the room. Now she's out of the shark phase, I can finally get my skirting boards looking as good as new again.

I didn't want to invest in new skirting or spend hours doing anything too intensive (I'm all for an easy DIY project). Thankfully, this kind of thing is well within the capabilities of a DIYer, and all in all, it took me about 20 mins (plus drying time) and cost me around £10. This is how I did it.

1. Give the skirting boards a sand and clean

Future PLC/ Sarah Handley

There were a few minor dents and scratches on the skirting boards as a result of daily life that could have been masked with a fresh coat of paint. However, there were two external corners of skirting where Blossom had gone to town and chewed the entire corner off.

So first off, I gave these areas a quick sand and wipe down to remove any sharp bits and dusty debris. Fair warning though, even though I vacuum round the skirting boards at least once a week, cleaning the chewed areas just highlighted how grubby the whole lot was looking. And I couldn't not pull on that thread, so ended up cleaning the skirting boards in the whole room before I started fixing the chewed parts.

2. Build up bulk with wood filler

Future PLC/ Sarah Handley

Next up, I had some white wood filler (Ronseal Multi-Purpose Wood Filler in White, £5.19 from Amazon) and used my finger to apply it to the areas I wanted to build up. I found it best to do this in layers because of the paste consistency, otherwise, you end up pulling off the filler as you apply it. I did try using a palette knife to apply it, but found that the filler stuck more to the knife than my finger.

I'd read that if you struggle to get your wood filler to stick on the base layer, you could add a bit of glue first to create a tackier surface for it to stick to, but I personally found I didn't need this step.

I didn't try to be neat either. I found that the more I tried to smooth out the filler at this stage, the more it was sticking to my fingers rather than the skirting board.

By the time I was done, it has taken about four gnarly layers to build up the right amount of wood filler, which took a couple of minutes at a time to apply and I let it dry for a couple of hours in between each layer.

Ronseal 100g Multi-Purpose Wood Filler Tube - White

I didn't need a big tub of wood filler, so this tube was ideal. I gave it a good shake squeeze before I took the lid off to ensure it was well mixed.

Hand sander

I'd borrowed a hand sander like this from my mum, which made it really easy for follow the existing plane of the skirting board when sanding own the filler to ensure a flush finish.

120 grit sandpaper (10 sheets)

I had some 120 grit sandpaper lying around, which I used to sand down the wood filler

3. Sand it down

Future PLC/ Sarah Handley

Once the wood filler was dry, I sanded the wood filler with 120 grit sandpaper so that it was flush with the main part of the skirting boards, making sure to only sand in one direction to preserve the integrity of the wood filler.

Doing this did highlight the need for some more filler at certain points (although this second round of filler was much easier to smooth on).

(Image credit: Future PLC/ Sarah Handley)

This was the most time consuming part, taking me about 20 minutes in total. I'd borrowed a hand sanding tool from my mum, similar to this £12.60 hand sander from B&Q, which I think helped ensure a flush and smooth finish. It was also a dusty process, so I made sure to wear a mask, eye protection and have a vacuum handy.

My skirting boards are simple in design, with just a single groove about an inch down from the top. This was lost after the filler was applied, but was incredibly easy to get back. I simply folded a piece of sandpaper in half, and used that folded edge to run along the existing groove, again going in a single direction rather than back and forth, to re-establish it in the filler. This would be relatively easy to recreate on a more decorative skirting board design using a similar technique.

4. Paint the skirting boards

(Image credit: Future PLC/ Sarah Handley)

Although my skirting boards are white, and I used white wood filler, the colours aren't an exact match, so I needed to give the skirting boards a coat of paint. When it comes to the type of paint to use on skirting boards, I had some leftover Dulux Brilliant White that I'd used on the walls and skirting when I last decorated.

My verdict on the results

Considering the state of the skirting boards before, I am thrilled with the results. I wasn't sure I'd get them looking remotely normal again, especially on a tight budget.

Sure, if you got really close, you might still see some imperfections, but I get a sense of pride out of seeing them — I look at them and think, hey I fixed that and that means more to me than a perfect skirting board. Seeing as I already had some sandpaper lying around, it only cost me about £5 to do too!

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My home’s kerb appeal needs a boost — so I’ve stacked up these 6 easy DIY tasks to do in a weekend

Natasha Brinsmead — Mon, 18 May 2026 10:00:00 +0000

Have you ever noticed how, once winter is done with and the sun starts shine, tempting us out into our gardens to lounge, that it is at this exact moment all the jobs that need doing in order to make the outside of our homes look their very best become the most obvious? Instead of enjoying hours whiling away the weekends and evenings relaxing, we feel guilty, looking up from our chosen reclining spot, about all the tasks we should be tackling instead.

Once the clouds drift away and the sunbeams appear, it is difficult to ignore all those small DIY jobs that needed doing during the colder months, but now is exactly the time to shake off the cobwebs and get the outside of your house looking shipshape – after all, many of these tasks rely on good weather to be a success.

In the case of my own home, the front of my house is way overdue a refresh – looking back at pictures from even just a year go has highlighted to me how shabby certain elements have got. With a kerb-appeal boost much needed, here are the jobs I plan on tackling first.

1. Repainting the front door

(Image credit: Future/Natasha Brinsmead)

Our front door is original to the Edwardian house – solid timber with three panels of tinted glass at the top. When we bought the house it was painted a vivid cobalt blue and since then it has gone through many different colours, from off-whites to Eau de Nil. None have ever been quite right and neither has the paint finish itself ever lasted as long as I'd like.

According to David Turner, head of product at Leader Online, where I may have been going wrong is in the preparation work. 'The biggest mistake people make is rushing the prep. You don’t necessarily need to strip it back to bare wood, but you do need to remove the shine and create a fresh surface to help the new paint properly grip and prevent flaking.'

Looking back, I definitely did skip through the initial legwork required for that perfect and long-lasting finish. This time, I am doing it properly – plus I plan on going bolder with my front door colours, using a beautiful shade of pink to brighten things up for summer.

Little Greene

Hellebore™ (275)

I'm done with neutral front door colours for now and am obsessed with this pretty dusky pink – it'll look great once the climbing rose comes into bloom around the porch too.

2. Upgrading my exterior lighting

(Image credit: Future/Natasha Brinsmead)

At present, the only illumination at the front of our house is a solitary pendant, with a very dim bulb, that does very little for the kerb appeal of the place once the sun goes down.

Along with adding in some new porch lighting I am also looking into some driveway lights to add some depth and a more welcoming feel.

Alina Enache, co-founder of Lamp Genius, has also pointed out to me the transformative effect simply cleaning our existing garden lights could have. 'I always advise that clients once a year clean external light fittings with a slightly damp cloth. Mould, dirt, and insects can build up around light fixtures, and if it is left too long, they can start to affect the light output of the lamp. If the fixtures have glass, you can usually remove it and clean it with a glass cleaner and a dry cloth. If you are cleaning the internal part of the fixture, make sure the power is turned off at the fuse box before cleaning.

'I also recommend using WD40 on any visible screws on the external part of the light fitting, which is used to attach the fitting to the wall or to gain access to the light bulb,' adds Alina. 'This will ensure the screws don't become stuck over time and make the light difficult to access in the future. This is especially important if you live near a coastal location where screws can rust and corrode easily.

'Lastly, you can check whilst cleaning if any LED lamps need replacing in the fixtures. Just remember to match the same colour temperature of the LED to your other exterior fixtures.'

Wayfair

Schrager Matt Black 4-Bulb Outdoor Armed Sconce – Set of 2

This pair of modern, yet simple, wall sconces will send light beams washing up and down the wall to add depth and interest to an exterior and would look great set either side of a front door.

Dunelm

Harvey Industrial Outdoor Wall Light

The vintage finish of this elegant outdoor wall light is perfect for injecting a little traditional charm – plus it is dimmable so you can tweak it to suit the mood you want to set.

Amazon

FTL Outdoor Lantern Wall Lights - 2-Pack

This pair of wall lights is ideal for anyone looking to add a contemporary touch to the outside of their home – plus the three-sided glass design means they emit a broad spread of light.

3. Finding ways to contain the gravel on my driveway

(Image credit: Future/Natasha Brinsmead)

While I have nothing against the gravel we used for our driveway materials, a buff-coloured Cotswolds stone, what I do object to is the way in which it leaches out onto the road. Not only does this mean we are left with bald patches on the driveway, but it also leaves the pavement and road outside the house looking very messy.

We did include some slightly raised edging when the driveway was first constructed, but the slew of heavy delivery lorries that followed during the renovation of the house caused it to sink down. A plan for the warmer months is to have this reinstated.

That said, Guy Wall, head of marketing at GCL Products, has some other tips for anyone thinking of a gravel driveway. 'Loose gravel driveways have a number of flaws, despite being attractive and permeable. They're a pain to maintain.

'Take it from me as someone who made the mistake by putting in 180mm of gravel on his driveway – it was the worst move I made. Gravel went everywhere. The cars got stuck and once grass came through it looked a state. Gravel retention grids (such as X-Grid from GCL) solve practically all these issues, and provide a solid surface. The grids can be filled flush to the top of the grid or slightly overfilled to hide the pattern of the grid surface.'

4. Cutting back the unruly ivy growing up the render

(Image credit: Future/Natasha Brinsmead)

The ivy round here can, in all honesty, get a little bit out of control. While it does look quite pretty growing up one section of the side of the house, once it starts crawling its spidery legs up to the rendered first floor, it just looks scruffy.

But should you remove Ivy from your house? I was worried it could also be causing damage to the pebbledash but, according to Angelika Zaber, gardening expert at Online Turf, it might not be as serious as I thought. 'Ivy poses risks to vulnerable structures, such as old houses, but most of the time it doesn't cause any structural issues as long as its roots are not removed with force.'

I was concerned that pulling it off could be a bad idea but, according to Angelika, I shouldn't worry. 'The best way to remove ivy without causing any damage is to cut a large section of the plant at the base and then wait for it to turn brown and dry out before pulling it off. Make sure to keep an eye on the stump left behind too and keep pruning any new shoots to avoid the plant coming back. You can also try herbicides, but mature ivy plants tends to have a waxy coating, which protects their leaves, limiting their effectiveness.'

5. Tidying up the hedges taking up parking space

(Image credit: Titan)

Since my son started driving and got his own car, the space on our driveway is more in demand than ever – and something that really isn't helping is the very unruly hedges which seem to have got out of control lately. Not only do they get in the way a little, they also look rather messy. But is now a good time to cut hedges?

'It is generally considered a bad idea to cut back hedges in the spring due to the nesting season that starts in March and lasts until around September, peaking between April and July,' warns Angelika Zaber. 'During this time, the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 prohibits cutting hedges back, unless there are no active nests. However, these can be hard to spot. If you fail to spot a nest, the eggs or chicks could be damaged or injured. Sometimes, even if the nest itself is not damaged, it can scare off the parent birds, causing them to abandon their young.

'Instead, the best time to cut hedges is considered to be late February, just before the season starts, and early October, as soon as it ends. The February cut will prepare your hedges for the upcoming growing season, while the October one allows you to get rid of any diseased or dead branches, just in time for the winter.'

It seems I have missed the boat on this one for now then, although Angelika does have some useful advice on how I can make things a bit better. 'If you want to make your hedges look tidier without cutting them back too much, you can always use a pair of secateurs to get rid of any longer stems or any branches that make the plant look messy.'

6. Cleaning the roof tiles on the porch and bay window

(Image credit: Future/Natasha Brinsmead)

Maintaining your roof and cleaning roof tiles is an easy job to overlook, particularly during the winter when you tend not to stand outside for prolonged periods of time, but giving them a spruce up can make all the difference. I'm starting with the the most visible areas from the front of the house – namely the areas of roof over the porch and the bay window.

'Roof cleaning is a low-cost but big-result way to brighten up the outside of your house, and this option is suitable for most types of roof tiles,' picks up Rebecca Danese,
establishment executive at Ben's Gutters Ltd. 'Roof washing can make a roof look brand-new while costing a fraction of the price of roof replacement, and looks particularly good if moss and lichen has built up on your tiles over the years.

'We recommend gentle steam washing or large-surface cold washing from the ground or a mobile scaffold rather than having someone come and stand on your roof with a pressure washer' continues Rebecca. 'You can even get the roof treated with a non-toxic biocide to keep the moss away for longer. For slate roofs, which are much more delicate, the best option is roof scraping, as pressure washing can damage slate tiles.'

FAQs

Does ivy growing up a house put off potential buyers?

Before you rush out to find ways to kill ivy, stop right there. It doesn't always cause the damage people assume it will.

'Interestingly, ivy can actually have a positive effect on houses – lessening the effect of frost and acting as a shield against heavy rain and winds,' reveals Angelika Zaber.

That said, according to some property experts, it can put some buyers off due to its fast-spreading nature and the fact that it can, in the case of older buildings, contribute to issues with damp. If you live in a period property and have English ivy, removal may be wise.

While autumn is traditionally thought of as the best time to clean gutters, giving yours a quick clear out and wash down now is a great idea – after all, the UK isn't known for its consistently dry springs and summers.

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My flaky front door was letting the whole house down – these are the 5 steps I took to smarten it up with a pop of colour

Natasha Brinsmead — Fri, 15 May 2026 08:00:00 +0000

Forming an important part of the overall kerb appeal of your house, as well as the entryway into your home, the front door often fails to get the recognition it deserves. This is the point at which you should feel a sense of being welcomed in and, as such, your front door ideas should really set the tone for what's to come.

In the case of my own front door, a repaint is very much overdue. Over the years it has been through a host of different colours. When we moved in it was painted a very bright cobalt blue to match the rest of the exterior woodwork and since then it has been through various off-whites and a fresh Eau de Nil.

Most recently though I have been longing for a pretty pink front door to return home to. I've tried out a few shades but none have quite hit the mark – now I think I've finally found the perfect shade and am ready to wave goodbye to the patchy, peeling door and get ready to make an elegant entrance. Follow along as I walk you through the steps needed to paint a front door for a perfect finish.

1. Sand it down

(Image credit: Future/Natasha Brinsmead)

I'll hold my hands up and say that in the past I may have neglected the preparation stages of painting my front door a little, so keen was I to get to the fun bit and see my front door colour ideas come to life. However, this time around, I want to ensure a perfect and long-lasting finish.

According to David Turner, head of product at Leader Online, sanding is essential here. 'Start by scraping off any loose paint and then sand the whole surface with 60-80 grit sandpaper. You don’t necessarily need to strip it back to bare wood, but you do need to remove the shine and create a fresh surface to help the new paint properly grip and prevent flaking. Use a finer sandpaper after, like 180-220 grit, to smooth the surface and give the door a thorough clean to remove dust and grease, as any remnants will show up later as texture and bumps.'

I actually removed some of the elbow grease required here by using this Bosch Cordless EasySander Multi Sander for the main areas and sheets of sandpaper for the tricker sections.

Bosch Cordless EasySander

A cordless sander is an ideal option if you want to make quick and easy work of sanding down surfaces before painting, without worrying about a power cord getting in the way.

2. Give it a thorough clean

(Image credit: Future/Natasha Brinsmead)

Having dusted down the door and removed all loose dirt and debris, I gave it a thorough clean. The best thing for this job is sugar soap which removes all manner of grime and grease. It can be used for all kinds of DIY tasks, from painting wooden furniture to cleaning walls.

You can buy sugar soap in various forms, from concentrates that you dilute with water to ready-mixed sprays and even handy wipes.

Simply apply, work it in then rinse it off. Make sure the door is fully dry before you move on to the next step.

3. Mask off any sections you don't want to get paint on

(Image credit: Future/Natasha Brinsmead)

This is another important step that often gets missed yet makes all the difference when it comes to the final finish.

You can use regular masking tape or painter's tape for this, which tends to be a little more flexible and easier to work with. The idea is that you mask off all the bits of the door that you want to stay paint-free – door furniture such as letterboxes, keyholes, hinges and so on.

In the case of my door I also needed to mask off the edges of the glazed sections. Fiddly? A bit. Worth it? Most definitely.

Shop my painting kit

B&Q

Tetrion Sugar Soap Trigger - 500ml x 3

No faffing around diluting with this sugar soap spray – just spray it on, leave it for a minute then wipe it away for a clean, grease and dirt free surface that is ready to prime or paint. It works just as well on walls as it does on woodwork.

Amazon

Frog Tape Yellow Delicate Surface Painters Masking Tape

I don't know where I would be without a roll of this for all the painting jobs around here – it keeps lines sharp, prevents paint bleeding and won't pull off your new paint when you remove it.

Amazon

Harris Seriously Good Paintbrush Set

This set of five paintbrushes is so handy as the smaller ones work perfectly for tricky areas requiring precision while the larger one give really good coverage fast. I also noticed no bristle loss while using them.

4. Add a coat of primer

(Image credit: Future/Natasha Brinsmead)

I had actually already primed the door before I chose my paint. Having researched some of the latest paint trends, I opted for Intelligent Satin by Little Greene in the shade Hellebore 275 which combines a primer and topcoat in one, meaning I didn't actually need to take this step. However, if you have gone for a different type of paint, priming is an important task.

'Primer is another step that’s often skipped as people don’t think it’s that important, but it makes a big difference,' explains David Turner. 'A good bonding or multi-surface primer will give you a much more even finish and help stop future peeling by sealing the porous wood against splashes and deterioration.

'Use a paint roller, brush or both to apply your primer and allow it to dry before painting, giving it at least one to three hours for latex or water-based primers.'

5. Get painting

(Image credit: Future/Natasha Brinsmead)

Time for the best bit – applying the paint itself. In the past, I have just used any old paint brush I could get my hands on but this time I decided to make painting easier by taking the advice of David Turner and combining a small roller as well as a brush.

'A small roller works well on flat panels, with a good-quality angled synthetic brush, made of nylon or polyester, for edges and detail,' explains David. 'That combination helps avoid visible brush marks while still giving you control where you need it. When loading the brush with paint, only dip up to the belly of the brush (the middle) and gently tap the flat of the brush against the paint bucket on each side to knock off any drips for an even distribution of paint.'

David had some more tips for me to when it came to the best painting techniques. 'Start in the centre of your door to unload the paint and spread it out before working towards the edges or panel grooves.

'It’s better to build up thin layers rather than go in heavy,' continues David. 'Two coats are the minimum, but three thin coats will give you a smoother, more durable result. Just make sure each coat is fully dry before adding the next. Some suggest only doing a coat per day to allow full adhesion, but water-based or quick-dry gloss paints require a minimum of four hours to dry. If you’re using a paint conditioner, allow extra drying time.'

David also suggested using a a clear topcoat to make sure the colour stays vibrant and is protected, but the paint I have chosen doesn't require this step.

The end result

(Image credit: Future/Natasha Brinsmead)

Later that same day, the door was finished. Having chosen a mild, dry and sunny day, I was able to leave the door open all day while waiting for the two coats to dry out.

I couldn't love the new pink shade more – it adds such a pretty pop of colour to the facade and sits really well with the surrounding greenery too. If you are looking for welcoming front door colours I can highly recommend this one.

Next up I'll be turning my attention to painting the inside of the house – my all-white kitchen walls are crying out for some colour and I'm already looking into some pink kitchen ideas...

FAQs

What are the best weather conditions for painting a front door?

I lucked out with the weather on the day I planned to paint my front door – a warm, but not hot, sunny and dry day. It is really important to carry out external painting, whether you are painting a fence, doors or windows, in the right conditions if you want your paint finish to stand the test of time.

'The best painting conditions are on a mild, dry day,' advises David Turner. 'It’s best not to paint in direct sunlight because the paint can dry too quickly and leave streaks. Cold, damp, or humid weather can disrupt how paint bonds and dries, leading to peeling or flaking.'

Painting your front door is just one way to add kerb appeal to a house. Now the weather is picking up, take a good look at the front of your home – even simple tasks like weeding, cleaning windows and roof tiles and repairing any guttering can all elevate the exterior more than you might imagine.

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I gave my tired cloakroom a DIY makeover — here’s how I transformed the space in 3 days and for just £150

Amy Reeves — Fri, 08 May 2026 08:00:00 +0000

When my partner and I moved into our home three years ago, the bathroom and toilet were separate and while we have since relocated the bathroom to a larger room to accommodate a toilet within it, we knew how handy it would be to keep the downstairs cloakroom.

We're undertaking a significant renovation in our home, and I'll admit that the downstairs cloakroom wasn't top of the list. While the room was pretty inoffensive, with pale walls, white sanitaryware and black tiled floor, our other renovation work in the surrounding rooms was coming to an end and so it seemed like the ideal time to give it a bit of attention. And compared to some of the work we've done to our house so far, I was excited to shift to an easy DIY job.

Over three separate days (with time for paint and adhesive drying added in between), and with some left-over materials from other areas of the renovation, I did what I could to modernise it, and I'm thrilled with the results. If you want to do something similar yourself, here's how we did it.

Day 1: Removed wallpaper, sanded and repainted

Future/Amy Reeves

First things, first, we set to removing the wallpaper and sanding down the walls. This whole part of the house (a 1970s extension) has a really great quality concrete render instead of gypsum plaster. Because of that, even though the decor hasn’t been touched at least since the later 1990s/early 2000s, the walls are in great condition and barely have any chipping or denting, which we found an absolute godsend when we were cleaning the walls before painting.

Once the walls were keyed and free of wallpaper paste, I used a sugar soap solution, £3.50 from B&Q, and sponged off the residue and dust. I sometimes get annoyed with all the prep work, especially if I am looking for a quick and fuss-free weekend project, but I remind myself that it seriously makes all the difference when it comes to the end result.

We were doing this on a budget, trying to use up scraps of whatever we had lying around from the rest of the renovation work, so I mixed up different paints to create a colour I was happy with – kind of a warm, deep navy.

The cloakroom is about 2m2 so it only took about 45 minutes to give a first coat to the walls and ceiling (I chose to do it in the same colour as it is such as small space and colour drenching would look really impactful). After about 30 minutes, it was dry enough that I was able to do a first pass at the woodwork in Green Smoke by Farrow and Ball, which we have used as an accent colour throughout the house. Then I did a second coat of both.

The entire process took about 3 hours and cost be approximately £41 in materials and tools.

Sugar soap

Volden

Concentrated Sugar Soap

One bottle of this goes insanely far and for the price, it is so worth spending the extra 20 minutes using a diluted solution of this sugar soap and a sponge. You'll be surprised at how much comes off after sanding.

Paint brush

Harris

Revive Fine Filament Tip Paint Brush, Pack of 5

We didn't buy these brushes specifically for this job, but the 'variety pack' is really useful to have on hand for all kinds of painting jobs. I quite like the Harris brand for their affordability and decent quality. The plastic handle is really comfortable, too, and I don't find my hand cramping on long painting day as much as I do with wooden handles.

Paint

Farrow & Ball

Green Smoke

This is the exact shade I chose for the woodwork in our downstairs cloakroom and was thrilled with the result. As it's such a small room, I didn't need much and it didn't take long to do.

Day 2: Retiling the splashback

This is after the splashback had been tiled, but before the new taps were in place - you can see how much of a difference it made making these small changes (Image credit: Future/Amy Reeves)

Next up was the sink. The WC didn’t have a splashback and despite this room being used fairly infrequently, I always notice the watermarks on the walls from washing hands, so I knew I wanted to tile the splashback during this makeover. To help keep costs low and reduce waste from other parts of our renovation, we used left-over tiles from our main bathroom remodel. If we hadn't had leftovers, the number of tiles we needed was so small that we could have just asked for samples from our chosen company for a minor cost.

I also used an all-in-one grout and tile adhesive, available at Amazon, because we’re not being fussy here - it’s cheap, cheerful and easy to use! I gave the adhesive a really thorough mix and used a small tile adhesive applicator (£4.45 from B&Q) to spread it on the wall evenly. Then, I took my tile and gave it some ‘back butter’ which is just putting the tile adhesive on to give it extra grip when securing it to the wall.

Although I was able to use mostly the whole tiles, I did have to make a few cuts so I made sure the rougher edges were on the inside so a nice finish would be on the outside. I finished by creating a neat grout line around the tile, which doesn’t look quite as good as when you use proper edging, but it meant we could keep costs down.

The splashback took me about 2 hours total (including drying time before grouting) and cost £17.

For the very small bit of floor, I bought some floor tiles from Facebook Marketplace for £10 to replace the black tiles in place. I gave the floor a good clean up and found they actually looked a lot better than I thought after 60 years and the footfall of countless people.

Splashback tiles

Topps Tiles

Zellica Antique White

I wanted something fairly neutral as we had chosen a fairly dark wall colour and these tiles have a slight texture to them to create visual interest.

Grout and adhesive

Mapei

Waterproof Fix & Grout 3.75kg Ready-Mixed Tub

As we were working with such a small area, this little tub of an all-in-one solution was just what we needed. I found it super easy to work with after a decent mix and would definitely recommend for smaller tiling projects on a budget.

Adhesive applicator

Amtech

Tile adhesive applicator

Although you can use a tiling trowel, I found that this smaller applicator was better suited for working in small corners and especially around the taps.

Day 3: New fixtures and fittings

Finally, with most of the work being complete, I turned my attention to upgrading fixtures and fittings. The paint I'd mixed had really warm undertones, so it made sense to me to replace the existing chrome versions with brass.

The towel and paper holders were really easy to replace. I simply moved the old ones (before painting), drilled a pilot hole, inserted the rawl plug and followed the instructions on the replacements. This and the paint made the biggest difference in feeling to the bathroom. I still would like to swap out the cistern flush handle to match and complete the look.

For lighting, we opted for a pendant on a short cable and chose something that gave off a decent amount of light without taking up too much headroom.

The taps were a little trickier to update as I had to cut off water supply and drain the taps in order to replace. At this point, I also found that the previous owners had soldered the old taps in place (I will never tire of the surprises and bodged jobs we've come across as we renovate the property).

In the end, we replaced the pipework entirely. This was definitely more time-involved than I anticipated, but I should know by now that plumbing in this house will always take at least triple the time and effort.

This part of the project was definitely where the budget went, with the cost at £72. The fixtures took about 40 minutes to put in place, but the taps unfortunately took about 2 hours with faffing and replacing.

Towel holder

George

Brass towel holder

We went fairly budget with the towel holder (and paper holder in the same range), but the difference when you walk into the bathroom is instantly more luxurious.

Basin taps

Swirl

Basin taps

Changing the taps has made a massive difference not just to how the bathroom looks, but also how nice it feels to wash hands. The old ones were stiff, drippy and, to be honest, a bit gross from years of grime.

Pendant light

Good Home

Tremont light

This light was an absolute bargain and it really works in the space. The window faces south but rarely gets decently light so a shade that cast shadows would have been fairly annoying.

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I tried 5 different methods for getting rid of marks and scuffs on my walls – including one my dad swore by – these are the ones that actually worked

Natasha Brinsmead — Sun, 03 May 2026 12:00:00 +0000

The larger surfaces in a house, namely the walls and floors, tend to take the brunt of day-to-day life and are therefore prone to damage, stains, scuffs and smears. As these same surfaces form the backdrop for the rest of your interiors, once they start to show signs of wear-and-tear, they can really let the entire scheme down.

This has definitely happened in my own home. From the once bright white walls in the kitchen, which are now covered in a myriad of sauce stains, grease spots and inexplicable dents, to the pale pink walls in the living room showing soot stains from the open fire – and don't even get me started on the stony grey bathroom walls. As a result of two bathroom-hogging teenagers and their array of sprays, lotions and gadgetry, these too are now something of an eyesore.

While i'm a keen DIYer, I admit that a whole-house repaint is much overdue. But with more significant renovation work on the horizon, I am keen to try to to get the walls looking even just a little bit better in the meantime without stripping the existing paint away – one of those easy DIY jobs that won't eat into my renovation budget. I tried five methods recommended to me – and am here to share the results.

Wall cleaning preparation

The five cleaning products I tested on my dirty white walls. (Image credit: Future PLC/ Natasha Brinsmead)

Before I tried any techniques for cleaning my dirty walls, Lynsey Crombie, Queen of Clean and ITV This Morning's resident home expert and TV presenter, had the following advice for me.

'Start with dry cleaning before introducing any water or product. Dust and loose dirt act like abrasives when rubbed, so removing them first is essential. A long-handled microfibre mop or a soft microfibre cloth works perfectly for this step, allowing you to reach high areas and corners with ease. Work from top to bottom to prevent dust from settling on areas you’ve already cleaned.

'Once the surface is dust-free, assess the type of paint finish,' continues Lynsey. 'Matte and flat paints are more delicate, while satin and gloss finishes are generally more durable and easier to clean.'

Amazon

WinHux Extendable Chenille Duster

Extending up to 3.5m, this lightweight mop is easy to handle, plus the chenille fibres work like a dream to scoop up dust and cobwebs.

1. Warm water and washing-up liquid

Before: A range of light marks and scrapes.Future/Natasha Brinsmead

After: The wall came up really well using this method.Future/Natasha Brinsmead

Never off the list of stain removal tips, from grease spots on clothes to oil stains on driveways, no household should be without a bubbly bottle of washing up liquid – turns out it could be the product I need to help me get my walls looking shipshape too.

'Painted walls can usually be cleaned without stripping the finish, but the approach matters a lot,' picks up Benjamin Hirst, director and owner at Smart Cleaning. 'In most cases, damage happens because people scrub too hard or use something far too harsh for the surface.

'The best place to start is with the gentlest option,' continues Benjamin. 'A soft microfibre cloth, warm water, and a small amount of mild washing-up liquid will deal with a lot of everyday marks. The cloth should be damp rather than wet, and the area should be wiped lightly rather than worked over aggressively. That alone often solves the problem.'

The verdict: Arguably the simplest method out there given that most of us have access to the products required. Of all the techniques, this is the one that left the least paint residue on the cloth – which I view as a good thing. While it didn't necessarily give the instant results some of the subsequent methods I used did, it was effective at removing light stains – plus, for marks high on the walls, such as the sooty deposits above fireplaces or where we've been burning candles, the route of mopping walls would work well here.

2. Sugar soap

Before: Smudges and scuffs in a high traffic area. Future

After: The sugar soap required no elbow work at all. Future

Sugar soap is another wonder product around the house, perfect for cleaning walls before painting by removing grease and grime. It can also be used before painting furniture, walls and woodwork.

The name is actually a little misleading as it does not, in fact, contain any sugar. Ingredients include a blend of sodium carbonate, sodium phosphate, and sodium silicate, all of which break down dirt, dissolve oils and break down grease.

'Sugar soap is an excellent option, especially for greasy marks or heavily soiled walls,' explains Lynsey Crombie. 'It’s designed to cut through grime without harming paint, but it should still be diluted according to instructions. Apply it with a sponge, then wipe the area again with clean water to remove any residue.'

The verdict: Readily available from DIY superstores and even supermarkets, sugar soap comes in several different formats, from concentrates, ready to be diluted in water, to ready-mixed sprays – even wipes.

This was such an easy way to clean the walls – I used Tetrion Sugar Soap from Amazon, a pre-mixed spray, which I just needed to apply to the stains, work in with a damp cloth then wipe down. It worked well on the light marks on the walls but really came into its own when it came to the sooty deposits at the tops of walls and the ceilings.

3. White vinegar

Before: This wall is right next to the utility cupboard so gets very knocked about. Future

After: Not perfect by any means, but certainly a little better. Future

Seriously, is there anything white vinegar can't do around the house? From unblocking drains and freshening up microwaves, to making glass shine and dissolving limescale (not to mention being a great addition to salad dressings), this is one product you don't want to be without.

According to Michael Bogoyavlenskiy, CEO at Cleaning Express, cleaning with white vinegar could also help with my grubby walls. 'To remove grease spots from a wall, try some watered down white vinegar. Mix one-part vinegar to two-parts water and spray on the area. Wipe it away and repeat until the grease spot has reduced. There’s no guarantee this will completely remove the stain, though, as grease can easily pull through porous paint into the wall below. If this happens, you’ll need to paint over it.'

The verdict: I love the idea of natural cleaning hacks so this one really appealed. However, I'd say this was the least effective of all the methods I tried. That said, it did remove one particularly dark mark that I thought was here to stay.

Amazon

Hexeal White Vinegar 5L

Offering fantastic value for money, this 5-litre bottle of white vinegar can be used for all kinds of things around the home, including pickling and cooking.

4. A mildly-abrasive cream cleaner

Before: This section of kitchen wall has a range of dirty marks. Future

After: Much better, although a few grease marks remain.Future

An important and upfront disclaimer here from me before we get into this one – this is not a method recommended to me by any of the experts, but one that was favoured by my late Dad, who reported brilliant results when using it on our walls at home, as well as when cleaning the bathroom.

Those mildly abrasive cream cleaners, with their ever-so-slightly gritty texture, can really come in handy for removing a range of marks and stains (including, I might add, for the black rings on my wooden worktops) but they can be harsh and take off the top surface layer, making it important to try this out on an area that is usually hidden from sight first.

The verdict: I feel a little cautious about recommending this one to you. It worked like a charm (thank you Dad) but it definitely stripped the very top layer of paint away as I could see the white residue on the cloth I was using. That said, on something more scrubbable, it may not have done – and it really did erase those scuffs and stains remarkably well.

5. Magic eraser

Before: The wall by the hallway gets knocked and brushed by on a daily basis. Future

After: While the eraser removed the marks, it highlighted how dirty the wall is overall.Future

And, finally, a magic eraser, also known as a magic sponge, and available from many different brands, sold as a method of cleaning without the need for additional chemicals or products – just water.

Made from high-density melamine, they can be cut to the size and shape you require, and positive reviews rave about their effectiveness when it comes to anything from removing yellow stains from toilets seats and getting white trainers gleaming again to, you guessed it, walls free from marks – including pen and crayon. But would this sponge take the paint away with the stain?

'For more stubborn areas, such as around light switches or door frames where fingerprints build up, spot cleaning is key,' picks up Lynsey Crombie. 'A magic eraser can be very effective, but use it lightly as these work like very fine sandpaper and can dull the finish if overused. Test on an inconspicuous area first, then gently rub only the marked spot'.

Benjamin Hirst also advised me to proceed with caution. 'Anything rough can leave dull patches or lift colour. Magic erasers are a good example. They can be useful in some situations, but they are abrasive, so it is easy to take the sheen off the paint if you are not careful.'

The verdict: Given that a repaint is on the horizon I decided to bite the bullet and give this one a go. I plumped for this very affordable 6 Pack Magic Eraser Sponge for Walls from Amazon. They were honestly brilliant at getting rid of all the marks, scuffs and scrapes on the wall next to the doorway hall, where school bags knock, the dog waits wagging for people to enter and visitors linger on, leaning up against the wall chatting. The only thing I would say is that they were so effective at removing the grime it meant where I hadn't cleaned was left looking decidedly grubby – if you take this route, you need to commit to cleaning the whole wall, not just patches of it.

FAQs

Are some paint finishes easier to clean than others?

Using a moisture-resistant, scrubbable paint in bathrooms and kitchens will mean walls are easier to keep clean. (Image credit: Benjamin Moore)

One of the main kitchen mistakes I made was to opt for the cheapest paint I could get my hands on rather than looking one suitable for areas of high humidity as well as something that was easy to wipe down. Had I have done my research into the best kitchen paint, things might have been different. As it is, next time around, I will have learnt my lesson.

'Paint finish makes a big difference. Gloss and satin are generally much easier to wash down because they are more durable,' reveals Benjamin Hirst. 'Eggshell sits somewhere in the middle. Standard matt emulsion tends to be the most awkward because it can mark quite easily, and some finishes do not respond well to repeated wiping. In practical terms, the more durable the coating, the easier ongoing maintenance becomes.

'From a cleaning point of view, the easiest walls to maintain are usually the ones painted with a scrubbable, higher-durability finish in the first place,' adds Benjamin. 'That is often the real long-term answer, especially in busy buildings.'

How to remove marks from furniture

If you have noticed scuffs and marks ruining your beautifully painted furniture – perhaps where you're artistic toddler has got a little too creative with their colouring pencils – fear not. Lynsey Crombie has some good news.

'For scuff marks from furniture, try this simple trick: a clean pencil eraser or a dry microfibre cloth can sometimes lift the mark without any liquid at all. If that doesn’t work, a slightly damp cloth with a touch of bicarbonate of soda can provide a mild abrasive effect, but once again, use gently.'

Definitely a couple of products to add to your spring cleaning essentials kit.

With your walls looking pristine once more, you may well be keen to get the rest of your house looking shipshape. Along with walls, floors can soon become pretty grubby surfaces so be sure to look into how to clean carpet – you may well not need to call in the pros to get the job done.

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Some areas of my home looked tired and shabby way too quickly – here’s how I plan on giving them a DIY seasonal facelift

Natasha Brinsmead — Fri, 01 May 2026 08:00:00 +0000

While some level of home maintenance is to be expected in any kind of a house, certain tasks seem to need doing far quicker than others – and, in the case of my own home, than they should.

While it would be unrealistic to think that, in the 10 years since we completed the DIY renovation of our Edwardian cottage, it would have remained looking as fresh and sparkly as it did when we finally downed tools, some elements really have stood the test of time – while others, rather annoyingly, looked tired and worn out just a few years in.

With another extension, remodel and general refresh now on the horizon, I have been looking around the place – inside and out – and taking note of those areas that looked threadbare, shoddy before their time. These are the top 6 offenders and what I plan on DIYing next to add kerb appeal and give my interiors a little seasonal facelift.

1. The painted porch and bay window

(Image credit: Future/Natasha Brinsmead)

At the front of our house, framing the front door, is an original timber porch, with dwarf brick walls to either side. When we bought the house this porch, along with all of the exterior woodwork, was painted a very bright cobalt blue which, while perfect for a seaside property on a Greek island, was doing nothing for the overall street scene.

We repainted the windows and all of the exterior woodwork and everything looked neat and tidy for approximately a year, maybe a little more, until it began to crack, flake in places and generally look a bit grimy. Despite many subsequent repaints, the paintwork here seems to weather really badly – in short, it just won't stay looking good for as long as I'd like – and now that the sun is shining this is more obvious than ever. We are about to pull out the paintbrushes again, but this time I want to make the finish last longer.

Jack Reading, marketing manager at Emperor Paint explains what steps I should be taking to address this element. 'Areas like window sills, plinths and lower sections of walls tend to take the most weathering and are usually where paint starts to peel first. The good news is these are quick, manageable jobs that don’t require much paint or time, but can instantly lift the look of the outside of your home. For instance, refreshing window sills can take as little as 30 minutes.

'Using a higher quality paint here is a small investment that lasts, helping those areas stay clean and beautiful for years rather than needing to be redone every few years.'

2. Interior woodwork and trim

While the interior woodwork fared a little better than that on the outside of the house, it was still definitely one of those areas that showed the passing of time the fastest. I'm talking architrave around doorways, skirting boards and window sills here.

I think this is made all the worse by the fact that we have two children and pets, so these areas regularly get knocked, kicked and are exposed wet dog shakes quite often too.

Keen to avoid a highly glossy finish, we opted for a water-based satin paint but I am wondering now, having looked into the best paints for skirting boards, whether it would have been wiser to go with an oil-based product which would have offered a more robust, durable finish. This is certainly what we'll be using for this refresh – I'm even considering going for a shade other than white to add a bit of interest.

B&Q

Dulux Trade Pure brilliant white Satinwood Metal & wood paint

This solvent-based paint, specifically for wood and metal, has been designed to give a highly durable, long-lasting finish – and is dry in 16-24 hrs.

3. The carpet on the stairs

(Image credit: Future/Natasha Brinsmead)

The carpet was one of the last things to go down in the house and, given that we only have it in one room on the ground floor (in the living room), it isn't looking too shoddy just yet. However, on the landing, which features two steps, it really is starting to look very threadbare.

I think where we went wrong here was to use the same carpet for these high-traffic areas as we did in the living room, where appearance and underfoot softness was more of a priority than looking into the best carpets for stairs. That said, the striped, dense loop pile carpet on the main staircase has weathered extremely well.

Shaf Member, buying director at QS Supplies, has some advice that I'll be taking on board when it comes to replacing this area of carpeting. 'For extremely heavily trafficked areas, dense pile loop carpets will hide wear better than soft, light-colored options. It's not about eliminating wear entirely – it's about selecting durable products that won't call attention to wear. There should be a balance between how visually pleasing something is and whether or not it has enough functionality to meet everyone's needs.'

4. Timber worktops in the kitchen

(Image credit: Future/Natasha Brinsmead)

Choosing timber worktops for the entirety of our kitchen (save for the breakfast bar, with its still unblemished marble composite) was one of the biggest kitchen mistakes we made. Not only does it require a twice-yearly oiling, but it is also covered in black ring marks, water stains and scratches. Some might say this adds to its character – I just say it looks downright scruffy.

We plan on remodelling the kitchen and, when we do, the wooden worktops will be the first thing to go – with a hardwearing quartz composite in their place. That said, I do think much of the problem was down to our use of them around the sink and hob as opposed to wooden worktops being a bad idea altogether.

Matthew O'Grady, director at Thomas Matthew Kitchens & Furniture, agrees. 'I find that timber worktops get a bad rep because people expect them to behave like stone and use them throughout the kitchen when they're only supposed to be used as a working surface. You actually should never use it around sinks because the constant damp edge where you leave plates to dry off or where you hang damp towels will become your biggest issue. Where timber works best and can age properly is in the areas of the kitchen that are the furthest from heat and moisture.'

Amazon

Libéron Wood Bleacher

Having tried this product myself on the black rings in the picture above, I can say that they have totally vanished –meaning I don't have to stare at them while I wait for the kitchen remodel to begin.

5. The white grout in the kitchen and bathrooms

(Image credit: Future/Natasha Brinsmead)

White grout is one of my worst enemies. It shows up all manner of dirt and hairline cracks and always seems to be taunting me out of the corner of my eye, letting both the bathrooms and the kitchen down.

We have a tiled bath surround in the main family bathroom – comprising white tiles and white grout, while the walls within the over-bath showering area match. The only thing that keeps the whole thing looking clean is a weekly dousing with a bleach spray and even then, the grout still looks decidedly crumbly.

Having spoken to David Turner, head of product at Leader Online, I am actually realising that my method of cleaning grout could partially be to blame. 'Grout can be the biggest reason why tiles look tired. Clean grout gently, as aggressive cleaning can erode it. It’s also helpful to regrout small sections that are beyond help to keep your floor looking fresh.'

That said, next time around, I plan on using either a dark shade of grout, to opt for different bathroom wall ideas altogether, such as large format tiles to minimise grout lines, or shower panels instead.

Amazon

3 Pack White Grout Pens

These pens are perfect for covering up grubby grout stains, promising to make it look as good as new – ideal for a quick refresh while we wait for the remodelling work to begin.

6. The white kitchen walls

(Image credit: Future/Natasha Brinsmead)

The kitchen was one of the first rooms to be completed and, as we neared the finish line, a few design decisions did get rushed – drawer inserts, switches and sockets, cabinet hardware and, you guessed it the paint colour we used for the walls.

Rather unimaginatively we just slapped a cheap, bright white everywhere, with no regard to the carefully-chosen cabinet colour, the flooring, wall tiles or to the best kitchen colours at all. Not only does this shade feel rather clinical, but it has also, over the years, become splattered with sauce stains, greasy fingerprint marks and general grime. So I regularly try these various methods to clean up my walls without repainting them.

Sophie Chapman, associate and interior designer at The Vawdrey House, agrees that our choice of kitchen wall colour may not have been the wisest. 'Uniform, all-white rooms feel one-dimensional, lacking the depth and warmth that helps a space feel lived-in. In the same way, standardised fittings such as generic downlighting (guilty!) or overly polished finishes can feel disconnected if they haven’t been carefully integrated into the wider space.'

Next time around, not only will I be choosing my kitchen wall colour with far more consideration for the other elements in the space, but I'll also be opting for one that offers a highly scrubbable finish to ensure it stays looking good for longer.

FAQs

How do you choose finishes and fittings that don't date quickly?

I can't wait to get started building an extension again, but this time I want to ensure that everything, from the finishes I choose to the interior decor choices I make, stand the test of time. Luckily, Sophie Chapman has some words of wisdom for me.

'We always encourage clients to look beyond immediate trends and focus instead on what will feel right for years to come, both visually and practically,' picks up Sophie. 'The elements that tend to stand the test of time are those grounded in good proportion, material quality and craftsmanship. Natural materials such as timber, stone and lime-based finishes age particularly well, developing character over time rather than simply looking worn-out. Similarly, well-judged joinery, such as Shaker-style kitchen cabinetry or bespoke built-in storage, brings a quiet simplicity that can evolve easily as a home changes.

'Ultimately, longevity comes down to cohesion,' adds Sophie. 'When lighting, materials and layout are all working together, the result is a space that feels timeless and comfortable, rather than tied to a particular trend or focal point.'

Thankfully, most of the updates required around my home are easy DIY repairs. When it comes to buying new carpet, I'll be waiting until the two-storey element of the extension is complete to avoid having to face two lots of new carpet costs.

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I tried this clever drill attachment for distressing furniture to get that high-end rustic look – and now I only buy second-hand

Layla Al-Ani — Sun, 29 Mar 2026 11:00:00 +0000

Like most people who love interior design, I have expensive taste when it comes to furniture. But sometimes I don’t have the budget to spend lavishly, which can be frustrating when I still want my home to look straight out of a Pinterest board.

I dabbled in the world of secondhand furniture, hoping to save some money – and it did not disappoint. The more pieces I transformed with a lick of paint, the more I realised I’d never go back to buying new.

And when I found some wire wheel brush drill attachments sitting in my partner’s tool bag, I had no idea that I’d stumbled across the ultimate tool for almost any upcycled furniture ideas.

Amazon

Wire Wheel Brush Drills Set

I’ve always leaned into the rustic farmhouse and modern cottage interior trends. So, the pieces of furniture that make my heart sing are a bit rougher around the edges. Think reclaimed wood, lots of texture, and a few nicks and scratches here or there.

I found a pine Welsh dresser for £80, which looked like the perfect addition to my space. While the smooth finish was lovely, it wasn’t quite my style. That’s when I realised that my wire drill attachments were just what I needed to make my vision a reality.

This is what I started with. (Image credit: Future plc / Layla Al-Ani)

Once you’ve sanded down your item, all you need to do is attach your wire brush to your drill and go. The cup brushes were perfect to bring out the natural wood grain. I made sure to go with the direction of the grain in some places, and against it in others, to add texture.

The wheel brushes were great for enhancing the spiral grains, and the pen brushes for any knots. I used light pressure and held the drill in place to dig out the knots, which looked beautiful.

I used a hammer to create dents in the pine while using the claw end to add scratches. Then, I used the pen attachments on these marks to elevate the rustic feel. Often going in one direction, and then going right over the top in another to add cross-hatching detailing.

This is the finished result. (Image credit: Future plc / Layla Al-Ani)

The key to distressing wooden furniture is not to overthink it. Don’t concentrate on trying to achieve a certain result. It works best when you just experiment and don’t stick in one spot for too long. I achieved the most stunning details when I wasn’t too deliberate with it.

The Welsh dresser is my favourite piece I’ve upcycled – I’m thrilled with the finished result, and I’ve saved myself hundreds. I’ve since used these drill attachments for other projects, including making my own faux beams, which looked authentic and hardly cost me anything.

(Image credit: Future plc / Layla Al-Ani)

Other distressing tools to try

B&Q

Steel wool

A more affordable alternative to the drill attachments for creating texture. Buff into the surface in various directions to add a rustic feel.

B&Q

Carbon Steel Claw Hammer

I found this type of hammer ideal for adding authentic nicks and scratches to my furniture.

B&Q

80 Grit Sandpaper roll

Sandpaper is an absolute staple for upcycling furniture. Whether you're painting or distressing, it's a must-have to ensure a high-quality finish.

So, it’s safe to say that I’ve officially converted to a lover of second-hand furniture. And since finding these clever drill attachments, transforming pieces has never been easier.

5 things that made painting my home so much easier – they minimise clean up time and will help make quick work of cutting in

Rebecca Knight — Sun, 29 Mar 2026 07:00:00 +0000

Painting a wall sounds like it should be easy, but as I've been redecorating my home over the last year, I've discovered it is anything but. Fortunately, I've found some handy tools that have made painting a wall it so much easier.

Don't get me wrong, painting is still one of the easiest DIY projects out there for transforming a room on a budget, but it comes with its own difficulties, from cutting in to cleaning your paint brushes. Last year I bought my first home, and since then I have made every paint mistake going while transforming my kitchen and living room.

I'm far from a pro-decorator, but with no budget to hire someone in, I'm stuck painting my own walls for the foreseeable future. Whilst learning from my mistakes, I've also learnt alot about the little tools that make the whole process as easy and low-mess as possible.

1. Extra wide frog tape

Extra wide frog tape lining the picture rail in my living room. (Image credit: Future / Rebecca Knight)

There are plenty of other painter's tape brands out there to help with cutting in, but Frog Tape is one of the most famous versions and my personal favourite. But what I hadn't discovered until recently was the extra-wide Frog Tape on Amazon, which is a game-changer for clumsy painters like me.

The extra-wide version means you need to be less disciplined with your brush when painting skirting boards, tight corners, and the ceiling. It provides a larger area of protection with the same amount of effort as the standard-sized frog tape. I wouldn't use any other-sized tape when painting now.

Amazon

Frog Tape Green Multi Surface Painters Masking Tape 48mm X 41.1m

2. Wonder wipes

My partner's mum sent these to us as soon as she heard we were painting our kitchen, and I've never been so grateful. Wonder wipes, available on Amazon, are formulated to remove semi-dry paint, sealant, silicone, adhesives, and so much more.

They are great for quickly cleaning up any painting mistakes or spills, but I found them most useful for cleaning paint brushes quickly and easily. I'm guilty of not cleaning my paint brushes or rollers properly, leaving them to turn crunchy and unusable.

Very few of my brushes lasted beyond one paint job until I discovered these wipes. Now, after one quick wipe down, my paint brushes are pristine and ready to go on the next project.

One pack of 60 wipes served me for painting my kitchen walls, cabinets and living room walls. I've stocked up on a second pack for when I tackle my bedroom and hallway.

Sika

Wonder Wipes - Multi-Use Cleaning Wipes for the Building Trade

3. Paint tray liner

After destroying my paint tray with white paint from my kitchen, a tray insert was essential to allow me to use it again. (Image credit: Future / Rebecca Knight)

I was on the fence about the concept of a paint tray liner when I first discovered them, but if you have ever tried to clean a paint tray, you will know how tricky it can be if any paint at all has been left to dry. I'd tried lining the tray with clingfilm, but it just got tangled and attached itself to the roller.

These tray inserts were the best alternative to me having to buy a whole new paint tray for each project. They can be thrown away after you've used them, but if you're better at cleaning up than me you can get a couple of uses out of them.

Harris

9in Harris Seriously Good Paint Tray Liners

4. Paint tin opener

My job means I'm the proud owner of many paint tin opener key rings. They're a staple in the goody bags at many of the industry events I attend, and I'm not mad about it. These little tools are unbelievably useful for effortlessly opening paint tins.

If you don't already have one, I'd recommend investing. Alternatively, if you don't want to risk losing a separate tin opener, I've also been eyeing up these clever Dulux paint brushes that have handy little tin openers on the end, available on Amazon.

Frenchic Paint

Customised Frenchic Can Opener With Key Ring

5. Work platform

I haven't actually tried painting with a platform, but I've been informed by my more DIY-savvy colleague that I need one.

Currently, I've been using a ladder, which restricts the amount of wall I can reach and my ability to hold a paint tray while painting.

I've lost count of the number of times I had to run up and down the ladder, to remanoeuvre it or top up my roller. There must be an easier way, and apparently, a work platform is the answer. You can move it along more easily and also balance a paint tray on it.

Werner

Werner Handy Aluminium Work Platform

Sadly, I still haven't found that miracle product that instantly empties a room or magically dries the paint in a room in one hour (here's hoping it's in development). But alongside choosing the best paint brand, these small buys have gone a long way in making painting my home less of a headache.

I limewashed my walls for the first time, and now I'm hooked – here’s 5 things I learnt from the process

Linda Clayton — Mon, 09 Feb 2026 16:00:00 +0000

Limewashing pros and cons

Pros
Beautiful depth and movement you can’t replicate with standard paint

Subtle shifts throughout the day as the light changes

Breathable and well suited to older homes

Naturally low-VOC supporting healthier indoor air quality

Fun to do if you’re craft-minded

Cons

Prep is time-consuming and unavoidable

Physically more demanding than painting

Difficult to touch up invisibly

Limewash paint is more expensive than regular paint

I’ve been lusting after the look of limewashed walls for years. It’s one of those paint ideas that always stops me mid-scroll, I’m borderline obsessed with the soft, imperfect finish that feels cosy and lived-in. So, when my daughter asked for a bedroom makeover for her 12th birthday, I took the opportunity to finally have a go myself. Her north-facing, roughly 4m x 4m bedroom felt like a safe place to experiment – if it went wrong, at least it wasn’t the living room (or my own bedroom, hah!).

What I hadn’t fully clocked was just how different limewashing walls is compared to learning how to paint a room in the conventional sense. Prepping alone took far longer than I anticipated (not helped by attempting it during a hectic Twixmas period, so it would be finished for her early Jan birthday). I was nervous, second-guessed every decision, and there were moments when I was convinced I’d made a terrible mistake.

BeforeFuture/Linda Clayton

AfterFuture/Linda Clayton

But once I found my groove, I actually really enjoyed it. The results are far from perfect, but they’re not a total washout either and, most importantly, my daughter loves it. I’m absolutely going to be trying it again. I used Bauwerk’s limewash paint in Mykonos, along with the brand’s Prep Coat and brush, heavily influenced by Instagram accounts like @limewash.london and @nutsandwoods, who create the dreamiest spaces. Here’s what I learnt along the way.

1. Prep is everything

(Image credit: Future/Linda Clayton)

I learnt from regular painting just how important prep is, but limewashing walls requires an extra level of prep I wasn’t anticipating. Before I could even open the limewash, I had to strip wallpaper from two of the four walls, sand everything back and wipe the bare gypsum plaster walls down thoroughly to get rid of any adhesive. The two remaining walls had been painted in Farrow & Ball’s estate emulsion, so I just gave them a quick wipe down to remove any dust.

Following Bauwerk’s extensive instructions, I then applied two coats of primer all round, followed by one coat of Bauwerk’s Prep Coat. But it still looked really patchy, so I went for the second coat of Prep just to be super safe (so that’s four coats in total). It did start to feel a bit torturous, especially interspersed with all the festive family visits/entertaining, but I was determined to do everything by the book and knew rushing this part would have been a false economy.

‘The key is proper preparation – porous, mineral substrates allow the paint to carbonate and develop that beautiful, chalky depth. Over-sealing or applying it to shiny walls will flatten the effect and can compromise durability,’ explains interior designer Ali Childs, who is a huge fan of limewashing walls. If I did it again, I’d allocate a lot more time for prep and schedule it for a less busy period!

2. Limewash won’t hide uneven or damaged walls

A mark I tried and failed to cover up! (Image credit: Future/Linda Clayton)

One of the biggest myths about limewash is that it disguises imperfect surfaces. Because it’s often likened to polished plaster, I assumed it might blur or soften flaws. It doesn’t. Limewash is essentially a very wet paint, and whatever is going on underneath will show through.

One wall in the room had patches where the wallpaper had pulled off the plaster. I should really have had it re-skimmed, but I didn’t fancy the mess or trying to get someone in between Christmas and New Year. You don’t notice it unless you look closely, but it’s definitely there as a handy reminder that limewashing walls isn’t a magic fix for poor walls.

3. It’s extremely runny and needs constant re-mixing

I whisked so hard I got bubbles. (Image credit: Future/Linda Clayton)

Nothing quite prepares you for how liquid limewash is. This isn’t a dip-and-roll situation. The pigment settles incredibly quickly, so if you’re not constantly mixing, you’re basically brushing water onto the walls.

I decanted the paint into a larger bucket, so I had room to really whip it up properly, and did it every other time I dipped the brush in. A big whisk works far better than a stick, so I grabbed the metal whisk from the kitchen drawer (it came out sparkling after a stint in the dishwasher). If you’re dealing with a big room and thus more limewash paint, you should consider a stirrer drill attachment (like this one from Amazon). My right elbow was ouchy-sore the day after I finished limewashing walls!

4. Load the brush lightly

Initial cloudsFuture/Linda Clayton

First coatFuture/Linda Clayton

Second coatFuture/Linda Clayton

Final coatFuture/Linda Clayton

Using too much paint on the brush is the fastest way to create drips, splashes and dark patches. ‘It’s important to use the right amount of paint on your brush, which should be neither overloaded nor too dry,’ advises Bauwerk’s technical limewash expert, Levi Gilbert. ‘Developing a feel for the appropriate amount of paint for the area being worked will help ensure a consistent, high-quality finish.’ I quickly learnt to shake excess paint off before touching the wall, not least because it’s pretty messy otherwise. I also started on the wall behind the bedroom door, so I could practice a bit before hitting more prominent walls.

The technique is to brush outwards, then criss-cross and gently smush the paint around. You don’t want strong contrasts, but you do want subtle definition between light and dark. Getting that balance right is tricky and takes practice.

I worked in ‘clouds’, following the videos I found online (there are loads), which is how you achieve that mottled finish. The second coat was much harder than the first because you can’t easily see where you’ve been. One key lesson: don’t stretch the brush too far when forming each cloud, or all the pigment gathers at the edges, leaving pale centres.

Also, brush marks look alarming when wet, but they soften as the wall dries – don’t panic. ‘Resist the temptation to overwork limewash. Apply it with a broad, loose brush and let the paint do its thing. The variation – lighter and darker patches – isn’t a flaw, it’s the end goal,’ says Ali Childs. Once I relaxed into it, I did start to feel like I was doing a fun craft project, which I have never experienced doing regular painting!

5. Trust the process

Close up, showing the texture - I've gone quite subtle. (Image credit: Future/Linda Clayton)

I ended up doing three coats because after two it genuinely looked like I’d just done a very bad paint job with standard emulsion! I was aiming for a richer, deeper finish to suit our Victorian house. In my opinion, really textural limewashing looks better in a more rustic, cottage-style setting than a home with sash windows and fancy architraves.

But there was a moment where I was convinced I’d made a terrible mistake with the third coat, and maybe I should have held my nerve. The first coat looked dreadful, which I was fully expecting, but the second wasn’t much better. I possibly didn’t leave the second coat long enough before starting the third – next time I’ll keep the faith and wait at least two hours (possibly overnight) to make sure it was really necessary. ‘You need to trust the process. Limewash may look uneven and patchy while drying. Allow it to fully cure between coats and after the final application, the finish softens and settles beautifully over time,’ advises Bauwerk’s Levi Gilbert.

It’s also worth noting that light plays a huge role, especially in a north-facing room. The texture on the walls in the room looks more obvious under electric lighting. ‘Because limewash reacts to light so dramatically, always test it in situ and observe it throughout the day. North-facing rooms will emphasise its softness, while strong sunlight can bring out movement and texture,’ explains Ali.

Once everything dried properly, I felt happier with the results. The colour deepened, the brush marks blurred, and the texture became slightly more evident, especially in the corners and edges of the walls.

Oh, and one last tip; don’t try to paint over any flaws once it’s dried. I tried to fix up a random dark mark I hadn’t spotted after the Prep Coat paint had dried, and it looked a hundred times worse. I’ve decided to hang a picture over it and move on with my life!

Complete the look

Habitat

Habitat Onda Linen Kingsize Headboard - Grey

Dunelm

Amaria Scallop Adjustable Wall Light

H&M

Muslin Double/king Duvet Cover Set - White

I wish I’d known this one thing before painting my walls – it would have stopped dark borders ruining my room renovation

Holly Reaney — Sun, 02 Nov 2025 10:00:00 +0000

As a beginner when it comes to home renovations, last week marked my first attempt at painting my walls, and it was a real learning experience.

Despite spending ages researching how to paint a wall, I still didn't achieve the professional finish I was hoping for, as I didn't know about picture framing or, more specifically, how to avoid it.

'Picture framing is an effect where the outer edges of the wall appear different to the rolled inner section, creating the look of a frame on the wall,' explains Anna Hill, brand director and colour consultant, Fenwick & Tilbrook.

This means that when the sun hits the wall, the edges of my room – where I meticulously cut in – are darker than the rest of the wall. It's also the case around my light switches and plug sockets, too. However, with one simple change, it is easily avoidable.

(Image credit: Future PLC / Brent Darby)

How to avoid picture framing

The secret to avoiding picture framing is to work with speed and precision.

'We recommend starting by cutting in around the edges with a brush, then using a roller to fill in the main wall area. It is essential to work in small sections and maintain a wet edge to ensure a smooth, seamless finish,' says Dominic Myland, CEO of Mylands.

Maintaining a wet edge means not allowing the paint to dry between cutting in and painting that section of the wall. Letting the cut in sections dry before painting the rest of the wall means you have an extra coat of paint over the join, making it appear as though there is a darker border around the edge of the room.

The wet edge allows you to blend the cut-in section with the rest of the wall to achieve a seamless finish.

Never cut in the whole room in one go – unless you have someone else coming behind you are paint the rest of the wall. Ian West, technical manager at Lakeland Paints advises ‘moving from top to bottom in a metre-wide strip going left to right (for a right-handed person), always keeping a wet edge for a perfect finish.' Keeping a wet edge also applies if painting kitchen cabinetry, as these two can be victims of picture-framing.

If you haven’t been able to maintain the wet edge, feathering can help correct this paint problem. Roll a nearly empty roller – like these Harris ones from Amazon – in various directions across the dry edge of a section, then start painting the larger part of the wall.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Choosing rollers and brushes to reduce the effect of picture-framing on walls

The right equipment makes all the difference when painting a room.

‘A brush allows for greater control, and is useful for smaller spaces, detailed work or areas with edges, corners or trim,' says Edward Bulmer, founder of Edward Bulmer Paints. ‘A roller, on the other hand, is better suited for large, expansive walls, providing a faster and more even application.’ Harris Essentials Walls & Ceilings Paint Brush Set, available on Amazon, has a size for every job.

However, not all rollers are equal. Ruth Mottershead, creative director at Little Greene explains: ‘Unless you’re a professional, rollers wider than nine inches are unwieldy. Also, select the right roller nap for the surface – rough (¾in), medium (½in), smooth (⅜in) or very smooth (¼in) – and avoid overloading. As a test, the roller should spin easily and smoothly in the air, without dripping paint.’ This 10-piece roller set, from Amazon, features 9" roller for larger areas and 4" roller for more intricate sections – both with a 12mm nap. Also, make sure you know how to use a paint roller for a streak-free finish.

Your paint choice will also influence whether you use a roller or a brush. ‘Most modern matt emulsions are designed to be applied with a medium-pile roller,’ says Ian West, technical manager at Lakeland Paints. ‘While glosses are best applied with a narrow flag-tipped brush.’ Lick's 1.5 inch flag-tipped paint brush from B&Q would be perfect for the job.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

How to cut in properly

Anna Hill, brand director and colour consultant at Fenwick & Tilbrook, describes cutting-in as ‘getting as close as possible to the adjoining surface without overlapping’. It needs a steady hand, but masking tape helps. Frog tape, available from Amazon, promises sharp lines and no paint bleed – as can sometimes be the case with traditional masking tape.

(Image credit: Fenwick & Tilbrook)

‘To cut-in, dip bristles of a one or two-inch straight-edge brush halfway into the paint, clearing excess paint from the sides by dragging lightly over the lip of the container,’ says Ruth Mottershead, creative director at Little Greene. ‘Work from the ceiling down, painting a three-inch frame around all the edges of the wall. Paint corners, edges of the skirting board and around windows, doors, light fixtures, sockets and switch plate.’

'A one-and-a-half to two-inch paintbrush is fairly standard for cutting in, but a feature of a good brush is its ability to 'hold an edge' and you can get more accuracy from a decent four-inch brush than a lesser quality smaller one,' adds Andy Greenall, Paint and Paper Library.

Harris Trade's 2 inch short handle cutting-in brush available on Amazon would set you up for success.

Upcycling furniture? Here are 5 things I wish I knew first

Holly Reaney — Fri, 26 Sep 2025 16:01:12 +0000

There is a piece of upcycled furniture in nearly every room of our home – from our chest of drawers and bedside tables to the dresser in the kitchen and desk in the home office – so it's safe to say I'm no stranger to a paint brush and a tub of chalk paint.

However, when creating something for your home, you want it to be perfect. Thankfully, with a few expert tips, it is easy to achieve a professional look when upcycling furniture – family and friends will be amazed that you didn't buy it.

One of the reasons I love this sustainable decorating idea is that it's an affordable way to fill your home with high-quality furniture. Having invested in low-quality budget furniture in my early 20s, discovering the wealth of wooden, quality furniture on Ebay and Freecycle changed the way I furnish our home.

Our solid wood, drop-leaf dining table cost me less than £15, and my pine desk (with six drawers) totalled £35 – including paint! Six years and a house move later, both are still going strong.

1. Don't skimp on the preparation

(Image credit: Chris Snook)

Whether upcycling secondhand pieces or painting IKEA furniture, the secret to achieving a professional paint finish lies in the preparation. Taking time and care at this stage lays the foundations for a smooth application and a long-lasting finish, and will help you avoid the most common paint problems.

‘If there are holes or cracks, fill them with a good wood filler – like this Ronseal multi-purpose wood filler from Amazon – and let it dry completely before sanding smooth. If you’ve got loose veneer or lifting edges, use a strong wood glue to stick it down and clamp if possible,’ advises Elliot Small, founder of Small & Co Furniture Paints.

Once repaired, turn your attention to cleaning. ‘Clean the entire piece with a good degreaser or sugar soap – like this from Amazon – ensuring it is thoroughly dry before the next step,’ says Emma Irving, senior product manager at Rust-Oleum. ‘If wax has previously been used, clean with white spirit and thoroughly sand.’

The need for sanding depends on the paint used; however, in most cases, lightly sanding the piece – using a 120-grit sandpaper, available on Amazon – just enough to take off the sheen of the previous finish, will help paint adhere to the furniture.

2. Choose the right piece

(Image credit: Annie Sloan)

When you are looking for an upcycling project for beginners, getting the right piece of furniture is essential – something I realised when I tried painting some old garden furniture, only to find out that it was rotting underneath, resulting in a waste of time and money on paint.

‘Look for good bones,’ advises Elliot. ‘Check for signs of woodworm – tiny holes and powdery dust – and avoid anything with severe water damage that warps the surface.'

'Wobbly legs or drawers that don’t run smoothly are often an easy fix, but if a piece is warped or falling apart, it might be more hassle than it’s worth,’ he adds.

Charity shops and online auction or marketplace sites are awash with quality pieces of furniture, just waiting for a coat of paint and a new lease of life. If you are hesitant about investing in the project, Freecycle has plenty of pieces you can acquire for free that are full of potential, or try shopping in your own home for easy DIY projects.

3. Invest in the right brushes for streak-free finish

(Image credit: Annie Sloan)

When purchasing a brush, ensure the bristles are soft and malleable and check for loose bristles – ‘there’s nothing worse than picking them out of wet paint,’ notes Elliot – something I can confirm from experience.

When painting wood furniture, the paint can be applied by brush or roller. ‘For most projects, my go-to is a 2-inch angled brush, and I’ll often use a mini microfibre or a nap mohair roller for big flat areas if I want a flawless finish,’ advises Elliot. Round brushes are ideal for more intricate or curved elements.

When painting, always follow the grain and use a light touch. ‘Most brush marks are caused by pushing down too heavily on the brush when painting,’ says Karen Jones, creative artisan at Frenchic Paint.

Just like when painting a room, climate is important, too. ‘Do not paint in direct sunlight or in a very hot room as the paint will dry too quickly, which could affect the finish,’ advises Karen. Always stir the paint using a dedicated paint stirrer to ensure the perfect formula.

Drips are an enemy of upcyclers – they often hide from view when painting. ‘A quick once-over with a light hand at the end of each coat usually catches them before they dry,’ says Elliot.

GACDR

Slant Lining Fitch Paint Brushes

With six different-sized slanted brushes, you'll definitely be able to find the size for the details in your project.

Mister Rui

Microfiber Paint Roller Set

A mini microfibre roller is a must for smoothly apply the paint over large flat areas.

CORAL

Aspire 5 Piece Round Sash Paint Brush

Perfect for detailing, round-ended brushes are ideal for intricate edges or curved parts of the furniture.

4. Not all paint can be used

(Image credit: Future/Rachael Smith)

For my first upcycling project, I used a tin of emulsion that we already had in the cupboard – big mistake. It quickly peeled off and chipped – meaning I then had to re-sand the whole cupboard and repaint it with a paint designed for upcycled furniture.

Choosing the right paint will influence the finish. ‘Chalk paints are easy to distress for that classic shabby chic look. Milk paints offer a similar texture, but come as a powder, so they can be mixed to the desired consistency – they’re great for a rustic finish. For a cleaner look, go with a water-based acrylic or mineral paint for a smooth finish,’ says Elliot.

If painting kitchen cabinets, make sure that you choose the best paint for kitchen cabinets, as this will be different to the paint needed for upcycling a vanity unit or chest of drawers

Quantities can be hard to predict and will differ depending on the formula. ‘As a rough guide, a single dining chair can be painted with a 120ml tester pot while a dresser or chest of drawers will need around 500ml,’ says Annie Sloan, founder of Annie Sloan Paint. For most projects, aim for at least two coats.

If you have any paint remaining, make sure you know what to do with leftover paint and that you properly store the paint – so that you have it to hand for future projects or occasional touch-ups.

5. The curing process

(Image credit: Annie Sloan)

I thought curing was just for meat, but turns out it's also for painted furniture – something I discovered when the paint quickly chipped off my chest of drawers the day after I started using them.

While it only takes a few hours for the paint to dry, the paint and any wax used need to cure. ‘Curing can take between five and 21 days, depending on the temperature. Treat your piece with extra care until it has cured completely,’ says Annie.

Treating your painted piece with furniture finishing wax – like Rust-Oleum clear furniture finishing wax available on Amazon – will protect the paintwork from the daily wear and tear. Clear waxes offer protection without affecting the look, but different waxes can be used to achieve effects. ‘Try white wax for a Scandi look or a dark one for an antique feel,’ says Annie. ‘You will need 500ml of wax for every 3-4 litres of paint.’

Using a combination of waxes gives you control over the finish. ‘When protecting a piece, I’ll apply browning wax to all the corners, apply clear wax on top and then blend,’ adds Karen.

Are there any other things you've learned in your upcycling journey that you think people should know about?

This DIY panelling mistakes could cost you £2,000 – get one easy step wrong and you could ruin your walls

Holly Reaney — Tue, 16 Sep 2025 12:05:00 +0000

Pannelling is an easy and effective way to elevate your interior designs, and with the myriad panelling ideas available, there is a design and style for every space. So, it's no surprise that the trend for wall panelling ideas is showing no signs of abating as we head towards 2026.

DIY wall panelling is a great budget decorating idea and something achievable for most novice DIYers. However, get one very easy step wrong and you run the risk of ruining your walls.

To ensure your DIY attempts don't end up racking up a huge bill, we'll talk you through the most important part of panelling your walls.

(Image credit: Kasia Fiszer)

Most common DIY panelling mistake

Whether you are an old hand at DIY or are only just learning how to panel a wall, preparation is vital. Failing to do so is the most common panelling mistake and the one that could have the most serious consequences.

While it might be obvious, failing to prepare your walls before installing panelling could prevent the panels from properly adhering to the wall. Ineffective adhesive could cause the panels to come away from the wall, taking the plaster with it.

Not only does this ruin all your hard work, but it will require the room to be replastered – work that Checkatrade estimates to cost between £1,100 for a small room and £1,900 for a large room (12m2). Plus, the money spent on the panels and adhesive in the first place.

(Image credit: Future PLC/Davide Lovatti)

You will need

BLACK+DECKER

Mouse 55w Detail Sander

Small but mighty, this sander if perfect for everything from prepping walls to upcycling furniture.

Asticers

Wall Filler Kit

This wall filler kit has everything you need to fill any cracks or holes in your wall before you start panelling.

Bartoline

Ready to Use Sugar Soap Spray

Super easy to use, there's no excuse not to ensure walls are correctly prepared before installing panelling.

What to do instead

Preparing the walls is easier than it might sound – in fact is very similar to the method used to prepare walls for painting.

Start by filling cracks and patching up holes in plaster with caulk for smaller cracks or patching compound for larger ones. If you have substantial cracks, you should check to see if the cracks in your walls are something to worry about (like signs of subsidence) or whether they are largely cosmetic.

If there is wallpaper on the wall, this also needs to be removed before installing panelling. Wallpaper adhesive isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the panels, and as the adhesive weakens, the panels will become detached from the walls. The best way to remove wallpaper is to use a steam stripper – like this Black & Decker model available on Amazon – and then allow it to dry before addressing any holes.

Once fully dry, wash the walls with a sugar soap solution to remove any grease or grime, which can weaken the adhesive. This is particularly important in the kitchen or hallways, where the walls are likely to be greasier or dirtier than other rooms.

Finally, sand walls back to a smooth finish, cleaning any dust. Sanding the walls also helps to take the gloss finish off any paint, remove any grease, and provide a 'key', ensuring better adhesion.

Before installing your panelling, the walls must be dry; if they are still slightly damp, you run the risk of rot and mould behind the panels, which will require them to be removed and the walls replastered further down the line.

(Image credit: Future PLC/James French)

With the walls prepared and dry, you can then install your wall panelling.

Use grab adhesives, such as NoNails available on Amazon to secure panels to the walls. Apply evenly to the back of each panel – many experts advise an S pattern, keeping the adhesive from the edge of the boards to prevent spillage.

If you get all these steps right you should avoid a costly £2,000 fee to replaster your walls and start from scratch again. Have you made this mistake before?

Dulux wants your leftover paint – its paint redistribution service is the easiest way to donate unfinished tins to a good cause

Sara Hesikova — Sat, 06 Sep 2025 07:00:00 +0000

I don’t know about you, but I definitely have a couple of tins of unfinished paint knocking about at home which I’m saving for that ‘just in case’ scenario (one that will likely never happen) – and I’d be willing to bet that you do, too. But the Community RePaint service sponsored by Dulux has the answer – a paint redistribution scheme that donates your unfinished paint tins to community centres, families and individuals all across the country.

Who doesn’t love an easy DIY project?! And paint is the perfect DIY tool to give your home an update and a refresh, even if you’re a beginner. But most painting jobs result in some leftover paint as Dulux’s research has revealed that 50 million litres of paint go to waste every year in the UK and 23% of Brits admitting they don’t do anything with leftover paint.

‘Against the backdrop of 50 million litres of paint going to waste each year in the UK, it’s now more important than ever to consider how we carry out our renovations and upcycles in the most sustainable way – that’s where Community RePaint comes in,' says Becky Orton, partnerships marketing manager at Dulux. 'Community RePaint is the paint redistribution service that Dulux has been proud to sponsor for over 30 years.’

So if you're looking for what to do with leftover paint and you've run out of projects, or you're just not sure how to dispose of paint safely, then this could be the best way for you to get rid of those old tins at home.

(Image credit: Future PLC/Dan Duchars)

How does it work?

Just last year alone, Community RePaint redistributed over 366,000 litres of paint to 44,500 individuals and families and 2500 community groups, stopping it from going to landfill or being incinerated. Instead, all this paint was used to realise countless beautiful and creative paint ideas.

To take advantage of this handy service and be part of a great cause at the same time, all you need to do is find the nearest of the 100 involved donation points via the Community RePaint website by simply entering your postcode.

(Image credit: Future PLC/Maxwell Attenborough)

‘We now have over 100 members in the UK, which basically act as donation points across the country where DIYers can drop off their leftover paint for it to be redistributed to individuals and community groups, ready to add a little colour to homes as well as those all-important community centres and resources. And we know there’s plenty of leftover paint to go around – recent research by Dulux found that the average DIYing household in the UK has four cans of paint from old projects collecting dust!

'These can be dropped off with local Community RePaint members, where they are sorted and stored on site and later redistributed at an affordable cost,’ Becky at Dulux explains.

That is a lot of unused paint unnecessarily going to waste! It’s also important to note that the best way to store paint to extend its lifespan is to properly seal it first, ideally using a rubber mallet like this one from Amazon and a plastic wrap like the StorePAK stretch wrap from B&Q.

That goes for whether you're looking to keep it or donate it.

'I stained my patio green!' What's your biggest DIY mistake? Let us know

Rebecca Knight — Thu, 21 Aug 2025 14:30:00 +0000

I just tried my first big DIY project, painting my kitchen cabinets, and while it wasn't a complete disaster, it did not go according to plan. It got me thinking about the biggest DIY mistakes you can make, and I want to hear your stories.

Have you had a bank holiday blunder where you've managed to damage more things around the house than you fixed? Did you stain your carpet when painting a wall, or end up in A&E after overestimating your DIY skills?

An easy DIY project is a great way to save money, but some DIY tasks take more time and skill than others and have the potential to turn into a big mess. My DIY disasters haven't been too drastic, yet. That's not to say there haven't been any. In just one week (and on the same project), I managed to stain my patio green after kicking over a tin of almost impossible-to-remove paint. That will teach me not to cover the ground properly.

Less disastrously, but just as annoyingly, I painted my kitchen cabinets two slightly different shades of green with the same tin of paint. Never again will I forget to mix thoroughly.

The path to a dream house on a budget rarely runs smoothly, and mistakes are all part of the process. I'm sure I'm not the only one guilty of them, and I'm equally sure I'll make many more in the future.

There are so many types of DIY mistakes, from tiny mishaps with a decorating project to full-blown ugly disasters that stemmed from what should have been an easy repair. Heat to the comments section below to divulge your personal disaster stories, and to read about other people's!

(Image credit: Future PLC/Joanna Henderson)

Like me, did you learn anything from your mishap? Have they convinced you to rely on professionals in the future, or did you pick yourself up and try again?

DIY takes practice, and many of us rush into it without the right prep or expertise after being inspired by an influencer's new kitchen or bathroom transformation on social media. If you haven't had any DIY mishaps, have you been privy to any spectacular blunders by your friends and family?

We will feature the best stories on the website, so make sure you share yours in the comments below.

I'll never paint a room without it – this genius tool doubles as a paint tin opener and brush, and makes decorating so much easier

Layla Al-Ani — Tue, 29 Jul 2025 16:10:00 +0000

Since moving into my home, I’ve covered almost every wall and ceiling with paint. I’ve gone through an impressive amount of paint tins – and struggled to open them using various tools and hacks.

From screwdrivers and kitchen knives to just plain brute force, I always ended up with a bent-out-of-shape tin, and my hands covered in paint.

So, when I stumbled across the Dulux Perfect Finish paint brush, £14, available at B&Q, it went straight into my basket. As an avid painter, I can safely say that when it comes to how to paint a room, you’ll want practical tools like this one that save on space and time.

B&Q

Dulux Perfect Finish paint brush

There’s nothing worse than doing all the prep work, taping walls and ceilings, and covering your floors, all to realise you don’t know how to open a tin of paint.

That’s the best part about these brushes – not only are they high quality, but they have a small tool on the end designed specifically for opening paint tins.

To open a tin with it, all you have to do is place the tool end into the lip of the paint tin at a 45-degree angle, push down, levering the lid off, and the lid will pop open. If you’ve got a stubborn lid or an older tin of paint, you might need to use the tool in several spots around it.

(Image credit: Future PLC / Layla Al-Ani)

It’s worth saying that I’ve tried this tool with various brands of paint too – it’s not just exclusive to Dulux paint tins. It also works with Farrow & Ball, Frenchic, Zinsser tins, and even tin tester pots, to name a few.

The brushes themselves are a staple amongst my painting essentials. You’ll get three in the pack, in various shapes and sizes. My personal favourite is the edging brush, which has a triangular-shaped brush carefully designed for painting edges and intricate details, so taping is no longer necessary.

I’ve used the edging brush on everything from skirting boards and door frames to panelling and occasional touch-ups, too. Whatever paint trends you’re wanting to try, this set of brushes is a good one to have in your collection.

(Image credit: Future PLC / Layla Al-Ani)

Like most paint brushes, they might shed a few bristles when you first use them, but I find that with their synthetic bristles, they shed significantly less than other brands I’ve tried before.

Keeping your tools clean will help them last longer. When cleaning the brush end, I find using soap and water for water-based paints sufficient, and white spirit for oil-based paints, like gloss, works great. For the tool end, if you do get paint on it, I’d recommend wiping it off immediately to avoid any buildup.

I’ve certainly put them to good use and can confidently say that they last well – a bedroom, hallway, bathroom, and some experimental murals later, and they’re almost as good as new. The metal tool remains sturdy, and there is no sign of wear or rust.

So, gone are the days of searching for the closest thing you can find to jam open your paint tin. This all-in-one tool means once you’ve got a paintbrush handy, you’re ready to transform your space.

Other paint tin opener tools to try

B&Q

Paint Can Opener

This simple, metal paint opener tool makes opening your paint tin quicker and easier.

Amazon

ProDec Universal Paint Tin Can Opener

This Amazon's Choice paint tin opener tool means you can open your paint tin mess-free with the push-and-press mechanism.

Amazon

Amazon Basics 14-in-1 Versatile Painters Tool

You won't have to worry about sacrificing your screwdrivers to open paint tins with this handy, multi-functional Amazon Basics paint tin opener.

The Dulux Perfect Finish paint brush, available at B&Q set is my go-to tool for cracking open my tins of paint. Whether you’re a DIY newbie or a seasoned expert, it’s worth trying this one out. You might just find it becomes a staple in your painting essentials, too.

8 things you should never paint in your home – keep your paintbrush away from these items to avoid regret

Holly Reaney — Fri, 25 Jul 2025 14:00:00 +0000

EDITOR’S NOTE: An earlier version of this article included a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote has been removed. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

Paint is an essential tool in interior design, allowing you to refresh your home without breaking the bank. While walls, furniture and floors are all fair game, there are some things that you should not attempt to paint on a DIY basis and some things that should not be painted at all.

There are plenty of paint ideas that will help to elevate your interiors, and with the right paint, most items can be refreshed with a coat of colour. For example, there are leather and fabric paints that can breathe new life into upholstery – something that isn't possible with typical Eggshell or Acrylics.

However, design experts agree that these are the things you should never paint in your home. This is typically either because they could damage your health or the item, or because the outcome is not worth the effort.

1. Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detectors

(Image credit: FireAngel)

Trends for colour drenching might lead you to think about painting smoke or carbon monoxide detectors in the same shade to prevent them from standing out on ceilings. However, smoke or carbon monoxide detectors are top of the list of things you should never paint in your home. In fact, many smoke or carbon monoxide detectors have written warnings saying not to paint them.

Aside from invalidating its warranty, painting a smoke or carbon monoxide detector can prevent it from working altogether – and you might not even know it's broken – so it's definitely not worth the risk.

Instead of painting smoke or carbon monoxide detectors, look for more decorative designs, like these Jalo smoke alarms available at Amazon. Their minimalist designs are available in a range of fabric finishes, including teal, orange, black and white, or a bright chrome finish.

Alternatively, for a more maximalist look, its Lento design, also available on Amazon, has been created to resemble a moth with colourful marble detailing. Available in five colours, including an eye-catching pink and more subtle white, it makes a functional and essential piece of technology into a work of art.

2. Electrical items

(Image credit: Future PLC/ Lizzie Orme)

While Instagram and TikTok might tell you that painting kitchen appliances is a good idea, in a lot of cases, kitchen appliances are some of the things you should never paint in your home. This is especially true of appliances that get a lot of use or heat up when used or come into direct contact with food.

For cheaper items, spray painting kitchen appliances can be an option, but items with heating elements and vents can prove problematic – especially if the paint can't withstand heat. Plus, make sure to check if painting would invalidate any guarantees or insurance.

3. Items that come into direct contact with food

(Image credit: Future PLC / Bee Holmes)

Most paint is not food safe, so, for health reasons, you should not paint anything that comes into direct contact with food.

This means that pans, utensils, cookware, serveware and highchair trays are all included in things you should never paint in your home. These items will need to be washed frequently, which increases the likelihood of flaking and unwanted ingestion.

Typically, these items aren't expensive, and the cost of updating them in a new pattern of colour scheme can be as cost-effective as purchasing the paint to refresh them. You could even see it as an opportunity to upgrade to the best saucepans and best non-stick frying pans.

For the same reason, you should never paint kitchen worktops. The paint surface won't be able to be cleaned to the same standard as unpainted worktops and risks contaminating your food.

4. Heirlooms and antiques

(Image credit: Future PLC/ David Giles)

Never paint anything that is of value – whether that is monetary or sentimental.

'I wouldn’t recommend painting anything that might be an antique, especially pieces with sentimental value. Painting an antique can decrease its value and upset family members. I wouldn’t paint over any original folk art, even if it’s faded or wallpaper,' advises paint expert Annie Sloan.

For antiques, their charm lies in their worn patina. Painting over these worn-finish ruins their character and personality – often irreparably.

Instead, try to consider other ways you can incorporate the piece – as it is – into your home – perhaps a new location will give it a new lease of life. Alternatively, you could look into professional restoration services – being sure to check the company's credentials and ask for examples or previous work before letting them loose on your precious heirloom or antique.

5. Wood burner stove

(Image credit: Future PLC/Simon Whitmore)

You should never attempt to paint a wood-burning, multi-fuel or bioethanol stove without thorough research.

'When ordering your stove, the manufacturer will usually include a pot of paint which can be used to paint your stove should you need to touch it up at a later date from potential wear and tear,' explains Jon Butterworth, director at Arada. Never use standard paint to repaint a stove or heater. 'Regular paint from other paint suppliers is not made with the same properties and therefore should never be used to paint your stove,' adds Jon. 'Stove-specific paint is the only paint to use on your stove as it is made to withstand the high temperatures from the stove body.'

However, even knowing that you can paint a wood-burning stove doesn't mean that you should. It is a very involved and messy process – so it's best left to professionals. The colour options can also be quite limited when it comes to DIY painting options, while there will be more shades available as part of a professional service.

'If you’re interested in a colourful stove for your living room, ensure you plan your colour palette to include the stove in the early stages of the design process,' advises Jon. Alternatively, opt for a more neutral stove and add the wow-factor with tile surrounds and feature wallpaper, which are easier to change when desired.

6. Bathroom tiles

(Image credit: Future PLC / Kasia Fiszer)

There are many guides online for painting over tiles; however, most experts agree that it rarely yields the long-term results that homeowners want when it comes to bathroom tile ideas.

'While painting over existing bathroom tiles may seem like a good idea, the moisture levels and durability can make this a regretful design choice over time. Although it’s cost-effective to add colour to a bathroom on a budget and instantly offers a refreshed look, painting over bathroom tiles has led to some people on TikTok wishing they’d never bothered,' explains Liam Cleverdon, the Flooring Expert at Flooring King.

'Painted bath or shower tiles around could be prone to peeling or chipping, and they may also require regular maintenance, touching up paint as moisture affects the look. With the regular need for upkeep and potential for mould, it’s not a design choice I can fully get on board with.'

Instead, retiling will be a more effective method in the long run, or consider updating other elements of the room, like painting walls, installing new bathroom window dressings to give your space a new lease of life.

8. Patio paving slabs

(Image credit: Future PLC)

Technically, you can paint paving slabs, but it takes a long time to do so, and the finish won't last for long. With the British weather, you'll likely have to repaint your patio every year to keep your patio looking expensive.

While repainting a patio is a good budget patio idea, it is quite labour-intensive and depending on how many years you keep up repainting, it may be more cost-effective to replace the tiles in the long run.

Instead, it may be more worthwhile to clean patio pavers using a pressure washer and elevating the space with a large outdoor rug like this Enyhom design from Amazon, which measures 180x270cm.

Next time you're itching for a DIY project just be careful to avoid painting something you might come to regret in the not too distant future.

Is using the washing machine the easiest way to clean paint rollers? Experts debunk this viral hack

Maddie Balcombe — Fri, 04 Jul 2025 09:00:00 +0000

When it comes to tackling DIY decor jobs, life is often made easier with a paint roller. But, for all their uses in the home, they can be a bit of a nightmare to keep clean.

A decent paint roller can typically be reused up to five times before it needs replacing, which is great news if you’re in the process of bringing your paint ideas to life. But, it will only last this long if it is properly cleaned and cared for.

If you’ve been wondering how to clean your paint roller, you’ll likely have seen that content creator Robyn Elliot, @the_house_acc on Instagram and TikTok, recently divided opinions after she posted a video of the ‘life hack she swears by’ – washing her paint roller in the washing machine.

Instagram users applauded the creativity, with one user commenting: ‘the roller in the washing machine is a game changer.’ However, TikTok commenters were less convinced: ‘don’t show a plumber this…’

With questions of appliance safety and practicality popping up, we asked the experts whether this hack is worth trying.

Should you clean paint rollers in the washing machine?

Robyn first saw this hack a few years ago, and has sworn by it since. ‘I wouldn’t use this hack for anything other than water-based paint, but I've washed my paint rollers in the washing machine a couple of times now,’ she says. ‘I always put it on a hot wash and I’ve never had any problems, and the machine always runs fine afterwards.’

Now, while this hack does technically work but is less than advised. This is because paint particles and solvents don’t mix particularly well with the components of a washing machine.

@the_house_acc
♬ Ultimate life hacks - Kelly | The Life Bath

‘From a drainage perspective, paint should never enter a wastewater system,’ says Stuart McGinn, drainage expert at Drain Detectives. ‘It can impact the inner walls of your pipes and lead to build-up and blockages. Over time, this could lead to sluggish drains or even full system failures.’

Alongside the risk of system blockages, there is also the worry that cleaning your paint rollers in the washing machine will impact future washes. ‘Washing machines are primarily engineered for textiles, and not for handling viscous substances like house paint,’ says Stuart.

‘Residual paint from the brushes could end up clinging to the drum, seals and filters of your washing machine, which may result in clogs or permanent staining that could compromise the future cleanliness of your clothing and bedding.’

And remember, if you do try your hand at this hack, it may impact the guarantee on your machine, so it is worth checking this beforehand.

What to do instead

While the washing machine may not be the best method of cleaning, you should definitely still wash your paint roller in between uses rather than buying a new one for each paint job.

‘By properly cleaning and storing your paint roller you will be able to reuse your roller for future DIY projects, alongside keeping them dust and debris free,’ says Emma Bestley, co-founder and creative director of YesColours.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

‘Start by scraping off any excess paint, before removing the sleeve and rinsing under warm water. Continue scraping whilst under the tap as this will help to further remove any excess paint,’ she says.

If water alone isn’t enough to do the job, add a few drops of dish soap. ‘Work the roller into a lather, massaging out the paint under the tap and continue rinsing until the water runs clean. Once this happens, shake out any excess water and leave the roller to air dry,’ says Emma.

Clean your roller by hand

Add these essentials to your basket to keep your paint roller good as new

Walhome

Paint Roller Brush Cleaner Tool

Ecover

Ecover Washing Up Liquid

Minky

Washing Up Bowl

Will you brave the washing machine hack?

The £5 fix to stop your fence panels from rattling – DIY experts say it'll fix the problem for good

Kezia Reynolds — Sun, 08 Jun 2025 11:00:00 +0000

If rattling fence posts have been disturbing your chill time in the garden, don’t worry, I’ve done the legwork and found out how to stop it - and all you need is this £5 product from Amazon to fix it.

If you’ve gone to the effort of bringing your garden fence ideas to life, it can be rather frustrating hearing the slats rattle as soon as the wind picks up.

Lucky for you, this is an easy DIY project that you can complete quickly. I asked the experts, who revealed how to stop fence panels from rattling.

How to stop fence panels rattling

First things first, you’ll want to know why your fence is rattling. And the answer is simple, your fence panels are loose from the post.

‘This gap causes the panels to move and rattle against the fence post, especially during windy conditions,' explains Mark Irving, building expert at Build & Plumb. 'However, this rattling can often signal that the fence is flexing to accommodate the wind, which is considered normal.'

(Image credit: Future PLC/Colin Poole)

It’s not a problem that signals any damage or risk to your fence and garden ideas, but let’s face it, that rattling noise can be annoying, which is why you’re here!

Luckily, it's an easy fix. All you need to do is invest in some fence wedges or fence clips, which can be picked up at your local DIY store or Amazon for less than £10.

‘Spring-loaded fence clips solve a common problem without the hassle,' says Thomas Oldham, Co-Founder at UK Construction Blog. 'They slide directly into the gap between the fence panel and post, gripping on their own with no need for tools or drilling. The spring mechanism keeps steady pressure on the panel, holding it firmly in place even on windy days,’

‘They’re a practical option when panels are still solid but have started to move around. Because the clips flex as the wood shifts with temperature and moisture, they stay effective over time. Push them into position by hand, and they’ll hold without altering the fence itself.’

(Image credit: Future PLC/ Claire Lloyd Davies)

As well as fence clips, you can also invest in fence wedges or foam which have a similar effect.

‘To know where to place your fence wedges, start by identifying the panels that rattle the most by gently shaking the fence. Typically, three to four wedges at different points of the post will work best to prevent movement and rattling,’ advises Mark.

‘Then use your hand to gently push the wedges as far as possible into the gap, and then use a hammer to secure them further in place. The wedges should fit tightly between the panels and the post.'

'Fence panel wedges are an ideal method for preventing rattling as they’re easy to install, long-lasting and can easily be removed if you need to paint or stain your fence at any point.’

Fence Panel Wedges (30 Pack)

Fence Panel Grips Clips 25 Pieces

Ltg Pro 12 Pcs Fence Panels Noise Stoppers

There you have it, go forth and never again have to deal with the irritating problem that is a rattling fence!

7 IKEA PAX hacks that transform the flatpack staple into bespoke and statement wardrobes

Sara Hesikova — Mon, 02 Jun 2025 08:00:00 +0000

IKEA’s range of simple flatpack furniture is the perfect, not to mention popular, target for various hacks and improvements. And while the PAX wardrobe system might seem a little intimidating to hack at first, mostly due to their large size, IKEA PAX hacks can be completely transformative for your home.

These IKEA hacks can elevate plain flatpack furniture into bespoke wardrobes with the help of the right tools and accessories. And IKEA PAX wardrobe hacks are clearly high in demand as Pinterest reports searches for ‘IKEA PAX wardrobe’ increased by 60% since last year.

‘The bones are sturdy, the dimensions are super practical, and IKEA really makes it a breeze to customise your space with pull-out drawers, shoe organisers and trays,’ says Sienna Brooks, Flitch interior stylist. ‘They have pretty much designed it to be hacked. Imagine it as a flexible framework that encourages creativity, whether you are going for a maximalist vibe or keeping it minimalist.’

1. Create a built-in look

(Image credit: Joanna Fletcher @project_34_selfbuild)

You may have seen this hack taking over social media and going viral everywhere from TikTok to Instagram and Pinterest. Turning your IKEA PAX into a built-in wardrobe look might not exactly be an easy DIY project but it’s certainly the most popular – and it’s worth the effort.

'I love the hacks I've seen where the PAX wardrobes are made to look like fully fitted, bespoke wardrobes,’ says Laurie Davidson, interior stylist and co-founder of Style Makers. ‘Such a luxurious look for a fraction of the price, especially when they're used in a dressing room. I think PAX is ideal for this as there are so many different organisation and customisation options, so you can really tailor it to the look you want.'

That’s exactly what content creator Joanna Fletcher (@project_34_selfbuild on Instagram) has done with her PAX wardrobes, documenting the entire process in her Instagram reel. Much like this TikToker’s library of dreams made with BILLY bookcases, Joanna raised the wardrobes off the ground and added skirting boards to cover the bottom, while white-painted MDF was used to fill in the gaps on the sides and the top.

2. Paint it

(Image credit: Future PLC/David Giles)

While Joanna of @project_34_selfbuild has decided to leave her PAX wardrobes the original wood-effect finish, you can, of course, paint your IKEA furniture to either match the walls or create a contrast with a colour you love. Just make sure you know how to paint IKEA furniture and invest in must-haves like the Zinsser B-I-N primer, available at Amazon.

‘Painting the doors the same colour as the walls can really change the game, especially in smaller bedrooms where you want to create a calm and cohesive feel. For those renting or looking for a no-drill option, removable vinyl wraps in marble, terrazzo or wood grain can completely revamp the look,’ Sienna at Flitch suggests.

3. Cover it in a panelled finish

(Image credit: Future PLC/James French)

‘One of my all-time favourites is adding fluted MDF panels to the PAX doors and giving them a fresh coat of paint in a striking heritage colour,’ says Sam Sutherland, Flitch interior stylist. ‘Imagine a rich olive or a deep charcoal blue. It transforms the unit into something special, almost like a custom-made wardrobe but without the hefty price tag of hiring a joiner.’

Incidentally, this style of wall panelling, along with ribbed and reeded, is exactly the kind that’s on trend in 2025. I recommend going for the mini fluted wall panels from Panels By Sofia, available at B&Q.

4. Swap out the handles

(Image credit: Future PLC/Holly Jolliffe)

IKEA’s cabinet and wardrobe handles are usually very uninspiring to put it lightly. And when it comes to many PAX wardrobe designs, there are no handles to even work with to begin with. That presents the perfect opportunity for customisation as you can go for pretty much any handles that catch your eye and attach them to the doors.

‘Pairing them with brass pulls really gives off a boutique-hotel vibe without breaking the bank,’ Sienna at Flitch says.

5. Add cane panels

(Image credit: Future PLC/Mary Wadsworth)

If you have access to a jig saw or don’t mind investing in one - like the bestselling HYCHIKA electric jig saw, selling for £39.03 at Amazon - you can cut out panels of your PAX wardrobe doors and fill the cut-outs with rattan or cane webbing like this one from Etsy instead for a little bit of classy texture. And you’ll also need a staple gun like this AECCN staple gun, on sale for £11.04 at Amazon, to attach the cane inserts to the doors.

‘I've also seen some amazing uses of cane webbing or mirror inserts that really soften the overall look and help reflect light in smaller rooms,’ Sam at Flitch says.

6. Incorporate colour and pattern with wallpaper

(Image credit: Future PLC/James Merrell)

If you still want to elevate panels of your PAX wardrobes without having to cut into them, you can do so by simply covering them in your favourite wallpaper – this is also a great way to utilise any leftover wallpaper you might have lying around the house and therefore a way to redecorate for free.

‘I absolutely love the idea of wrapping PAX units in wallpaper, especially something with a bit of texture, like grasscloth or a linen effect,’ Sienna at Flitch says.

7. Attach motion-sensor lighting

(Image credit: Future PLC/Colin Poole)

A couple of years ago, I came across a hack using these £8.49 Amazon puck lights to customise the area under kitchen cabinets. But it’s just as good of an idea to utilise them for your PAX wardrobes – or any other wardrobes for that matter.

‘I think it’s fantastic when people incorporate motion-sensor lighting inside the PAX. It instantly elevates the space, making it feel luxurious and super practical, especially on those chilly winter mornings,’ Sam at Flitch says.

There is truly so much that you can do with your IKEA PAX wardrobes, whether you take on one of these ideas or come up with a new creative makeover all on your own. Happy hacking!

The one tool all experts agree every DIYer needs to own – whether you’re a seasoned pro or a beginner

Sara Hesikova — Thu, 29 May 2025 07:00:00 +0000

DIY is the perfect way to improve your home without having to spend a lot of money on calling in professionals – but to complete your DIY projects efficiently and to the best of your ability, you will need a little help from the right tools. And there is one essential tool every DIYer needs, according to experts.

I asked a few DIY and decorating experts what they consider the one DIY tool everybody needs – and all of them agreed that a cordless drill is the must-have. And that’s whether you’re a seasoned pro DIYer or a beginner looking to start with some easy DIY projects.

The DeWalt DCD771C2 20V Max Compact Drill/Driver Kit, available at Amazon, comes highly recommended by DIY experts. (Image credit: Future PLC/Alun Callender)

‘The tool I’d always recommend is a cordless drill – completely versatile and useful for so many areas of DIY,’ says Anna Moynihan, TaskHer co-founder.

But if you’re thinking that even the best drill is only good for drilling holes, you will soon be convinced otherwise by the experts – I, myself, now want to swap our drill for a cordless one. Not that I’ve never thought of it before, but somehow it now feels justified.

Why do you need this tool

As already mentioned, a cordless drill can do so much more than just drill holes – it’s useful for anything from IKEA hacks (or even just putting together flatpack furniture) to even painting.

‘It makes quick work of tasks that would be slow and exhausting by hand – flat-pack assembly is so much faster. Instead of using the Allen key that comes with your furniture, just add an Allen key bit to your drill and assemble it in half the time,’ Anna at TaskHer says.

Violeta Stoyanova, Fantastic Handyman's renovation specialist, adds to the list of cordless drill uses, ‘It can become your go-to for driving screws, assembling furniture, installing shelves, hanging drywall and even mixing paint or thinset with attachments.’

(Image credit: Future PLC/David Giles)

Essentially, it makes every DIY job a lot more effortless and much quicker.

‘It saves time and effort on almost any project. A cordless drill also gives you the freedom to work anywhere indoors, outdoors, in tight corners or on a ladder without needing an extension cord or access to an outlet. It dramatically speeds up tasks compared to manual screwdrivers or hand drills and reduces hand fatigue. This is especially important in large or repetitive jobs,’ Violeta says.

(Image credit: Future PLC/David Giles)

Top recommended picks

Each one of the experts had their go-to cordless drill they’d recommend. So I’m going to let them explain why these are their favourites.

Budget

Bosch

IXO 7 Basic Cordless Screwdriver

'I always recommend the Bosch IXO; it's compact, lightweight, and has more than enough power for everyday jobs,' says Sienna Brooks, Flitch interior stylist. 'This little tool can truly transform your DIY experience at home.'

Mid-level

Makita

LXT DHP482 Combi Drill

'It’s easy enough for a beginner to use safely, but powerful and durable enough for pros. The battery life is good, and it’s light and easy to hold,' Anna at TaskHer explains.

Pro

Milwaukee

M18 Fuel 1/2" Drill Driver

'This drill consistently ranks at the top in various tests and reviews because of its exceptional performance and durability. It's equipped with a robust battery system that allows extended use without frequent recharging. It's an excellent investment for people planning to undertake extensive DIY projects or professional tasks,' Violeta at Fantastic Handyman says.

The effectiveness of a cordless drill is indisputable. So only one question remains – which one are you going to be adding to your basket?

DIY experts warn against attempting these 5 projects on your own this bank holiday weekend

Sara Hesikova — Sat, 24 May 2025 07:00:00 +0000

Are you planning on doing some DIY over this bank holiday weekend? Given the generally warm and favourable end-of-May weather, the three-day break is one of the prime times for giving your home and garden a little update. But according to experts, there are a few DIY projects you should think twice about before attempting this May bank holiday weekend.

That’s not to say you shouldn’t take on any home improvements. On the contrary, quick and easy DIY projects are perfect to get done at this time of year as if your schedule’s clear, it gives you three consecutive days to do the work.

But while mini bank holiday DIY tasks are welcome, anything on a bigger scale is best avoided, even with three days to hand.

‘With just a three-day window and typical spring conditions in the UK, including unpredictable weather and moderate humidity, it’s wise to avoid projects that are time-sensitive, prone to delays or could cause more disruption than you can comfortably fix over a long weekend,’ warns Violeta Stoyanova, Fantastic Handyman's renovation specialist.

‘If a task could leave you without a usable room, it depends on perfect conditions or requires more than basic tools, save it for summer or when you have at least a full week and a backup plan.’

1. Whole room refurbishments

(Image credit: Future/Holly Jolliffe)

As you may have guessed, refurbishing entire rooms is not the best bank holiday weekend task to take on – even painting a whole room, unless it’s a very small one, should be avoided as you likely won’t have enough time to complete it.

2. Extensive outdoor paint jobs

(Image credit: Future PLC/Russell Sadur)

I know this might sound like I'm contradicting myself since I’ve suggested painting the fence as one of the best bank holiday DIY tasks to tackle this long weekend here. But any other large-scale outdoor paint jobs are not the best to get into due to the temperamental weather. Even giving the fence a new coat of paint should be done only after consulting the weather forecast.

‘The weather at this time of year can be unpredictable, and although it might look like a good day for painting a shed, a front door, or garden furniture in the morning, it can quickly turn in the afternoon and spoil your hard work,’ says Adam Brown, director of operations at Nationwide Supplies.

Violeta at Fantastic Handyman adds, ‘Even one unexpected shower can ruin paintwork or cause streaking. Masonry paints usually need the surface to be completely dry, which often takes 24 to 48 hours before and after painting, and overnight dew can interfere with curing. This way, you can waste expensive paint or have to redo patches, leading to a streaky or uneven finish.’

3. Installing plumbing and simple electrics

(Image credit: Future PLC)

While most of us - myself included - would likely leave any plumbing and electrical jobs around the house to the pros, some DIY enthusiasts might want to tackle them on their own. But the bank holiday weekend is not the ideal time for those, just in case anything goes south.

‘Installing plumbing or simple electrics are definitely doable as a DIYer, especially with three days to play with – but if things go wrong and you need professional support it’s going to be trickier to get hold of a professional over the bank holiday weekend,’ warns Anna Moynihan, TaskHer’s founder.

But it might just be easier to call in the professionals from the likes of TaskHer and Taskrabbit from the get go in order to avoid any disasters.

4. Laying new flooring

(Image credit: Future PLC/Anna Stathaki)

Installing any of your fresh bedroom, living room or kitchen flooring ideas is also likely going to be too time-consuming of a job to get done over the three days with ease. Especially as there are several things that can go wrong.

‘Especially laminate or solid wood flooring,’ Violeta at Fantastic Handyman specifies. ‘Flooring needs time to acclimate to the room’s temperature and humidity, usually 48 to 72 hours before installation.

'Subfloor prep can also reveal unexpected issues, such as damp patches or uneven surfaces. Because of that, once you start, you can’t easily pause without leaving the space unusable. The risk you take is that you might end up with warped boards or gapping later on, or worse, a half-finished floor you can’t walk on.’

But if you're not happy with your flooring and you're struggling to bear the sight of it, you can go for a more temporary fix like a rug or self-adhesive vinyl stickers.

Irisroom

Self Adhesive Peel and Stick Floor Tiles, Set of 10

If you're looking to bring some pattern to your kitchen, bathroom or hallway floors, these star-motif self-adhesive tile stickers are a quick and easy fix. And it's renter-friendly too!

Ruggable

Gaia Ivory Multicolour Rug

I have this beautiful rug in my own living room, using it to cover the unsightly dark brown carpet of my rental flat underneath. And it's not only chic, it's also washable, just like all the Ruggable rugs are.

GoodHome

Poprock Beige Tile Stone effect Vinyl tile 1.3m²

These stick-on tiles are currently selling super fast on the B&Q website. And given the stone-effect look that would fool most into thinking it's real stone finish, I'm not surprised.

5. Installing a new patio or paving

(Image credit: Future PLC/Lizzie Orme)

If you’re planning on making your new patio ideas a reality sometime soon, it’s best to pick a time in the summer rather than the May bank holiday week to install a brand new patio. And that goes for paving as well, largely due to the state of the ground during this time of year.

‘The ground in spring is often still soft or waterlogged from winter rains, meaning poor stability. Proper patio installation needs a solid base, which involves digging out, compacting hardcore, laying sand and levelling. This takes time and precision. In addition, rain delays and curing time for mortar or resin compounds can drag the job well past three days. This way, you might end up with uneven slabs, sinking spots or patchy joints,’ Violeta at Fantastic Handyman says.

But there are many quicker and easier indoor paint ideas, upcycling projects and maintenance tasks that need doing and are perfect for this time of year instead.

5 mini DIY jobs to get done over the long bank holiday weekend – experts reveal the easy tasks you should be tackling this time of year

Sara Hesikova — Thu, 22 May 2025 08:00:00 +0000

The long bank holiday weekend is just around the corner – hallelujah! Given the extra time at home most of us get and the (hopefully) favourable weather, this time of year is the perfect time to get stuck into some bank holiday weekend small DIY tasks.

These easy DIY projects don’t require a whole lot of time, but they’re also simple enough for anyone to be able to do, no special skills, experience or power tools needed.

‘A long spring bank holiday weekend is the perfect time to tackle DIY projects that are manageable, improve your home’s look or function, and take advantage of the milder weather,’ says Violeta Stoyanova, Fantastic Handyman's renovation specialist. ‘With an extra day available, there’s more time to plan properly, complete a task at a steady pace and still have time for cleaning. This makes it perfect for low-risk, high-reward jobs.’

On top of all of that, most brands and retailers have special bank holiday weekend offers on, so it’s worth stocking up on DIY supplies.

1. Get that annoying quick fix done

(Image credit: Future PLC)

I’m sure there is that one thing in your home that you think, ‘I need to get that done’ or ‘I need to fix that’, on a daily basis. Most of the time, it’s actually a quick job or a fix that doesn’t take long, it’s just about getting round to it. So get that one out of the way for your peace of mind more than anything.

‘Start off by fixing that one thing that's been annoying you for ages and you've been meaning to get round to fixing, like a creaky door, a wobbly cupboard door handle, a dripping tap – it's a quick fix that you'll be happy you've finally done,’ says Adam Brown, director of operations at Nationwide Supplies.

2. Paint your fence

(Image credit: Future PLC/Colin Poole)

Given the warm and hopefully rain-free weather, the May bank holiday weekend is a great time to paint your fence. But check the weather forecast to make sure there is no risk of showers because those would destroy all your hard work.

‘Fences take a battering over the winter months, so giving them a touch up is a really easy DIY especially if you have any stain leftover from previous projects,’ says Anna Moynihan, TaskHer’s founder.

Anna continues with some tips on how to best paint a fence, ‘Make sure the fence is as clean as possible – wooden fences will grow green mildew over the winter months and this can be removed with a pressure washer or a spray and leave fence cleaner. Once the fence is clean, use a specific fence stain to cover up any fading/chips or damage from the winter months. You can apply this with a stiff thick fence paint brush without having to get a paint sprayer especially if it’s just touching up.’

Ronseal

Fence Life Plus Warm Stone Matt Exterior Wood Paint 9L

This paint from Ronseal is specially designed for fences - so it won't let you down. This light shade is one of the bestsellers on the B&Q website.

Cuprinol

Garden Shades Coastal Mist Matt Exterior Wood Paint 2.5L

Soft blues are not only having a moment in interiors right now but also in outdoor spaces like the garden - so why not paint your fence a more 'you' colour with this light wood paint shade?

Ronseal

One Coat Forest Green Matt Exterior Protector Wood Paint 5L

£10 for 5 litres of paint?! And not only will this bargain give your fence a lovely natural green shade to match your garden's lush greenery, but it's also a protectant at the same time. Run, don't walk, I say!

3. Touch up your wall and trim paint

(Image credit: Future PLC/Rachael Smith)

As the new-found light that the spring and summer months bring with them often reveals a lot of imperfections on walls and other painted surfaces, the long weekend presents the perfect opportunity to touch up your walls and trims.

‘When the weather is sunnier, it highlights all the bangs and knocks on your paintwork and skirting boards. A really simple and effective project is using your leftover paint to touch these spots up. You can get empty pens online [like these from Amazon] which you can fill with paint, making the job a lot easier when it comes to really fast touch ups,’ Anna at TaskHer says.

But some slightly more extensive paint ideas are also possible to get done in this short span of time, according to Violeta at Fantastic Handyman, ‘Painting an accent wall or a small room is quick, relatively low-mess and gives a huge visual upgrade. Spring is good for ventilation, which helps with drying and reduces paint fumes.’

Alternatively, you can tackle some kitchen paint ideas you’ve been putting aside for a while. ‘You could also try refreshing the kitchen, without replacing it, by painting the cupboards,’ Adam at Nationwide Supplies says.

4. Re-grout your bathroom tiles

(Image credit: Future PLC/James French)

After the long, cold winter, your bathroom is also likely in need of some TLC. And focusing on re-sealing and re-grouting your tiles would be the go-to bank holiday job to tackle, according to Violeta at Fantastic Handyman.

‘The humidity from winter and general wear can cause mould or cracks in bathroom sealant and grout. Re-sealing and re-grouting them is a simple job that makes the bathroom look fresh and prevents water damage.

'First, you'll need to remove old sealant using a sealant removal tool [available on Amazon] or a utility knife. Then, clean the tiles thoroughly with mould remover and allow them to dry. Apply new sealant with a silicone gun, going slowly and using a smoothing tool or your finger dipped in soapy water for a clean finish.

'Finally, start re-grouting. Use a grout rake to scrape out any old grout if it's necessary, then apply fresh grout with a rubber float and clean the tiles after it sets. I'd also recommend using mould-resistant silicone and grout in bathrooms,’ Violeta says.

5. Hang wall art or a tapestry

(Image credit: Future PLC/Rachael Smith)

I don’t know about you, but it often takes me months to get around to hanging up any wall art once it’s finally framed and ready. So this could actually qualify as this list’s job number 1 – getting that annoying fix done. Whether you’re renting and need some Command hooks, available at Amazon to create your wall display or can actually make holes in the wall, this is the perfect way to really elevate your home this bank holiday weekend.

Alternatively, you can also hang a statement tapestry or a rug you love the design of and bring some beautiful texture to the wall and the whole room. You could opt for a slim rail like this one from Amazon or hooks like these £20 Amazon tapestry hangers; however, for an even more decorative and textural approach, try hanging a large foraged branch instead.

But, of course, this is not necessarily a check list that needs to be completed in the space of this long weekend. Bank holiday is also about rest and having fun, so don’t forget to have some of that too!

5 IKEA BESTA hacks that will transform your basic storage cabinets into stylish pieces with a high-end look

Sara Hesikova — Mon, 28 Apr 2025 08:00:00 +0000

Who doesn’t love IKEA and its signature pared-back, minimalist but also budget-friendly flatpack furniture? I sure do, as do millions of others whose homes feature at least one of the popular furniture pieces from the Swedish retailer. The IKEA BESTA cabinets are the perfect example – a design that lends itself perfectly to customisation, which is where the IKEA BESTA hacks come in.

The majority of IKEA’s flatpack furniture - the BESTA storage system included - works perfectly as a blank canvas ready to be personalised with some clever and creative IKEA hacks which are becoming increasingly more popular, both on social media and in people’s homes.

I personally own a set of four IKEA BESTA cabinets which are lined up against my home office wall, housing my collection of magazines, along with some more boring paperwork. But I’d be lying if I said I was happy with the current look of these cupboards which I haven’t touched since putting them in place last year. So let’s find out what you and I can do to give our BESTA cabinets a little (or a big) makeover to elevate our homes.

IKEA BESTA alternatives

If you’re looking for some BESTA alternatives that aren’t from IKEA for whatever reason - whether that’s because there isn’t a store near you, you don’t want to put so much work into an IKEA hack or you simply prefer to shop from other brands - then I found some similar-looking alternatives for you. They’re not by any means identical but they have the BESTA spirit.

La Redoute

Oak Modular Low Sideboard

Even though this La Redoute design is pricier compared to IKEA's BESTA, it's made with real oak wood which is ultimately going to be more hardwearing and long-lasting compared to the particle board that the IKEA BESTA is made of.

Dunelm

Freddie Large Sideboard

Available in two different colour finishes, this sleek sideboard boasts a similar shape and design to the IKEA BESTA but without the need to do much else to it. It looks great as it is - but if you want to change the colour or handles, you sure can, of course.

John Lewis

Palma Sideboard

If you don't feel like adding fluted panelling to your IKEA BESTA cabinet in order to elevate it, you could also just opt for the Palma sideboard from John Lewis which already comes with that finish. But you will have to pay a little extra for it.

1. Create a storage bench

(Image credit: Lotte Studio)

If you really want to transform your BESTA unit beyond recognition, then turn it into a storage bench, similarly to one of the most popular IKEA KALLAX hacks. For this purpose, you will need the lower BESTA TV bench or shelf unit, rather than the full-sized storage unit.

And if someone’s mastered the look, it’s Charlotte Simpson, founder and creative director of Lotte Studio, whose project is pictured above. ‘I had seen a BESTA hack by Claire Kennedy on Instagram. My boyfriend is a vinyl collector and we struggle for space so I figured it would be a great storage idea for that whilst also utilising a dead bit of space in the loft. It quickly escalated to having an upholstered back on it that I drew out free-hand and cut with a jigsaw.

'Once I was on a roll with it, it wasn’t as challenging as I thought. The biggest consideration was ensuring the priming was good enough to prevent chipping. I used my go-to Zinnser Bin (available at Amazon), I then caulked to make the BESTA look fitted and cut out to accommodate existing skirting.’

2. Adorn with a fluted finish

(Image credit: Melanie Lissack / @melanielissackinteriors)

Some IKEA hacks are more complex than others. But very often, all it takes to makeover a piece of IKEA furniture is some paint (just make sure you know how to paint IKEA furniture because it requires a couple extra steps compared to painting most pieces of furniture), a set of new, stylish handles and perhaps some textured finish.

In the case of content creator Melanie Lissack’s IKEA BESTA panelled cabinet hack, the texture was provided in the form of fluted panelling and finished with some lovely lilac paint. The IKEA BESTA collection is vast and there are versions that even come with a ready-made reeded finish. But there are none with a fluted one – and it looks a lot more sophisticated, if you ask me.

3. Build a media unit

(Image credit: No Space Like Home)

Many IKEA hacks provide the perfect budget alternative to large-scale, built-in joinery. And while it’s mostly IKEA BILLY bookcase hacks that fall into this category, you can utilise multiple BESTA cabinets to build a media unit, similar to the one created by Clare Bolger of No Space Like Home pictured above, too.

‘Storage is really important in a smaller property that doesn't have much dedicated storage space,’ Clare says. ‘The client's budget wouldn't stretch to bespoke joinery so the IKEA BESTA TV storage combination was perfect for what we needed. I got a joiner to build a base, add a skirting across the front and a frame around it to give the appearance of a bespoke, built in unit without the price tag.

'I used paint to zone each area so the TV cabinet needed to be the same colour as the walls for a cocooning, seamless feel. First, we sanded and primed it with Zinsser BIN primer and then gave it two top coats of Benjamin Moore's Aura Eggshell in Knoxville Gray. The end result provides a lovely focal point and incorporates plenty of storage, both in the closed cupboards and the open shelving on either side.’

4. Add glass or cane inserts

(Image credit: Plank Hardware/@crack_the_shutters)

Similarly to adding fluted panelling to elevate your IKEA BESTA cabinets, you can also make it your own by adding cane webbing or reeded glass inserts to the cabinet doors. This look will work as a living room IKEA hack for a sideboard but it also makes for an excellent toy storage idea.

‘Swap the doors for cane webbing or fluted glass and add some wooden legs,’ suggests Alex Stubbs, Flitch interior stylist. ‘You’ll end up with toy storage that blends beautifully into adult spaces, which is perfect when your living room serves more than one purpose.’

Westfield Rattan

Natural Cane Rattan Webbing

Etsy is the perfect place to get yourself some well-priced cane webbing by the roll much like this one from Westfield Rattan.

Lifetree

Reeded Glass Window Film

Rather than investing in reeded or fluted glass panels, a more budget-friendly option is to attach some reeded glass film to any glass or even plastic surface. This design is Amazon's bestseller with over 140 five-star customer reviews.

5. Turn it into a bathroom vanity

(Image credit: Future PLC/Katie Lee)

There are several places where you can utilise a floating BESTA cabinet attached to the wall, whether that’s as a console table in the hallway or as a sideboard in the living room. It creates storage space without appearing too bulky as the floor space remains clear.

But perhaps my favourite way to utilise this BESTA method is turning it into a bathroom IKEA hack in the form of a vanity, much like in this green spa-style en suite loft conversion. Of course, the world is your oyster in terms of the colour you paint it or the finish you add to it, just as long as it’s in harmony with your bathroom’s style.

Many of these BESTA hacks would also work as IKEA IVAR hacks – or any other similar-looking, basic flatpack cabinets from IKEA for that matter. So which one are you going to try out first?

How to fix a leaky gutter – expert advice on what you'll need to get your gutters working properly again

Katie Sims — Tue, 22 Apr 2025 11:00:00 +0000

Leaky gutters aren't a problem that anyone wants to deal with, but sadly, they're not going to mend themselves. The good news is that you can learn how to fix a leaky gutter and get it working properly again in just seven simple steps.

So if you've noticed water dripping out of your gutters instead of flowing towards the drain, the time is ripe to don your DIY hat and start fixing. And as far as home repairs you can DIY go, mending a leaky gutter is relatively straightforward - especially when you're following the advice of experts.

Before you start, you'll need to get your hands on some equipment first. It goes without saying that if you're using a ladder to fix gutters along the eaves of a roof, you'll need to take necessary safety precautions. Someone should be around to hold the ladder at the bottom.

What you'll need

Gutter cleaning tool - this £21.99 kit from Amazon includes an extendable pole and two brush heads
Watering can or bucket, such as this 14L Builders Bucket, £11.49
If the gutter seal is damaged, you'll need a replacement seal, like this 114mm seal, bag of 10 for £7.84
Gutter sealant - the Hemway All-in-One Hybrid Sealant, £12.95 from Amazon will do
Flash tape for larger holes (we recommend the Bostik Flashband Self-Adhesive Flashing Tape)
Screwdriver - you can't go wrong with this 6-Piece Magnetic Screwdriver Set from Amazon

1. Identify the source

(Image credit: Getty Images)

In order to know how to fix a leaky gutter, you'll first need to identify the source of the leak. Some of the most common leak points include the joints between sections, any splits or cracks in the guttering, and blockages.

'If you have metal guttering, then check for potential rust holes,' Jess Thomas, Managing Director of Drainage Central advises. 'It’s easiest to spot leaks during or just after heavy rain, but if it's dry you can pour water along the gutter to locate the spot instead.'

Once you're pretty confident on where the leak is coming from, you can start mending it.

2. Clean the gutter

Next, the experts advise cleaning the gutter out, focusing in particular on the area where the leak is coming from. Remove any debris using a gutter cleaning tool, such as the PROGUTTER Half Round Gutter Scraper, £8 at Amazon or another of the best DIY gutter cleaning tools. It'll make the world of difference when fixing the leak.

'Aside from giving you a clean base, clearing the gutter will also ensure that it's not just a blockage causing the leak,' Jess adds. A blocked gutter causes water to overflow instead of drain, so you might find that this step fixes the problem itself.

Rinse away any leftover debris using a watering can, bucket, or hose, then wait for the area to dry before moving on to the next step.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

3. Fix any joints

If the joints (the point where two lengths of gutter meet) are the problem, you'll need to fix these to stop any more water from leaking. Take the joint apart and inspect the seal. If it's cracked or damaged, it'll need replacing. DIY stores like B&Q stock gutter seals - you can get a 70mm seal for £6.31 from their website. Or, check Amazon, where's there's a variety of sizes available, like this 114mm gutter seal, bag of five for £4.84.

'Clean the joint thoroughly before refitting it. Make sure the gutter sits within the expansion marks on the fitting,' Jess advises. 'This is a common issue with plastic gutters, as these joints usually snap together with a rubber seal inside. Leaks will happen when the seal perishes or the joint has become misaligned which can happen over time.'

For metal gutters, you'll need to apply waterproof sealant where there's gaps or corrosion, or tighten screws if it's a bolted joint.

4. Seal any cracks or holes

Any cracks or holes in the gutters will need sealing if you want to stop water leaking through. This is relatively easy to do, and you'll need a good-quality gutter sealant like Everbuild, which is available on Amazon.

Always check the product's guidelines, but generally, you'll need to apply a generous amount of the sealant to any cracks, smoothing it out for good coverage. Allow it to cure as per the instructions, usually for 24-48 hours.

5. Patch up any larger holes

If you've spotted larger holes in your gutters, you'll need to take an additional step before you apply the sealant.

'I recommend using a metal repair patch or suitable flash tape,' Jess says. 'Cut a patch larger than the hole, then apply your gutter sealant around the hole. Press the patch into place and seal around the edges.'

The Bostik Flashband Self Adhesive Flashing Tape comes highly recommended. It's designed for guttering and roof repairs, and with a 4.3 star rating out of over 4,000 reviews, it definitely seems capable of patching up any larger holes.

6. Check the brackets and sloping

If your gutters don't seem to have any holes or cracks, the leak may be a result of sloping that has been displaced. The sloping (which is just the downward angle or slant of the gutters) is secured in place via brackets, so you'll need to check that these are secure.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

'In general, gutter brackets should be spaced about every one metre, or even closer in areas with heavy rainfall,' Jess says. 'The slope should be around 1cm for every three metres of guttering, sloping gently towards the downpipe.'

To adjust the gutter slope, you'll typically need to reposition the gutter brackets. Carefully loosen the fasteners holding the brackets in place with a screwdriver, then raise or lower the gutter to the desired level. Finish by re-securing the brackets in place.

7. Check your repairs

The above steps should have helped you diagnose and solve the problem with your leaky gutters. To make sure that the leak is fixed, you can pour some water into the gutter and see if it drains correctly.

FAQs

Why is water dripping under my gutters?

There could be a few reasons why water is dripping under your gutters, so it's important to investigate and find the source of the leak.

'Blockages are the most common cause,' Glen Peskett, DIY Expert from Saxton Blades says. 'Over time, leaves, twigs, and other debris such as stones from birds, can build up and stop the water from flowing properly. When the gutter fills up, it can overflow and drip from underneath instead of flowing to the downspout.'

Gutters can also suffer from wear and tear over time. You'll need to fill any holes and cracks with a sealant to stop water from dripping through. It may also be that the gutter sloping is off, which can cause water to pool and overflow.

How much does it cost to replace gutters in the UK?

If your gutters are leaking beyond repair, you're probably going to have to replace them. Plastic guttering in particular isn't built to last forever.

How much it costs to replace gutters depends on the length and material needed. 'But, on average, based on a 15-20 metre guttering and three downpipes, Brits can expect to pay around £1,000 for the supply and installation,' Alison MacLean, property expert at St. Modwen Homes says.

Now you know how to fix a leaky gutter, they should operate smoothly going forward. That's one job ticked off the DIY to-do list!

Can I paint over old paint on a front door? Experts reveal when it's OK to skip this step

Katie Sims — Tue, 08 Apr 2025 13:00:00 +0000

If you're planning on giving your front door a refresh, it's worth knowing whether you can skip the step of removing the old paint and go straight in with a fresh coat.

Of course, we want to do our front door colour ideas justice, given that they're the first thing we see when entering our home. But anything that can make the job of repainting the door easier, like painting straight over the old paint, is welcome news.

The answer to the question 'can I paint over old paint on the front door?' depends on the condition the old paint is in. Nick Parsons, Technical Manager at Harris Brushes, advises that most of the time, it's better not to paint over old paint on the front door. 'Painting over old paint without proper prep may seem like a shortcut, but it often leads to peeling, bubbling, and an uneven finish,' he explains. 'If the existing paint is cracked or flaking, new paint won’t adhere properly, causing it to chip away prematurely.'

(Image credit: Future PLC/Colin Poole)

So if you want to make your front door look more attractive by giving it a fresh lick of paint, you'll probably get better results if you remove the old paint first.

That being said, the experts advise that it can be OK to paint over the old paint if it's in good condition.

'If the current paint is in good nick (no chipping, flaking, cracking, bubbling, peeling, missing parts etc) and the surface is smooth and clear, then you can paint straight over it,' Lee Trethewey, General Manager at Sustainable Furniture says. 'I would still make sure that you prep the door before painting on the current paint, however.'

(Image credit: Future PLC)

It's worth assessing the state of the paint currently on your front door before making a decision on whether or not to remove it. If there are any signs of chipping, it's best to err on the side of caution, otherwise, you risk an uneven finish. But if you can't spot any issues, then you can go ahead and paint the front door without removing the old paint first.

'But don't overlook any light markings, as this is still enough to cause issues if you paint over it,' Lee adds.

(Image credit: Future PLC/James French)

How to paint over old paint correctly

If there are no signs of any wear and tear on the old paint, you can paint over it by following the steps below.

Clean the door thoroughly with warm soapy water or sugar soap - we recommend the Everbuild Sugar Soap Liquid from Amazon. Let it dry completely before moving on to the next step.
Even if the old paint looks good, you still need to sand it. 'You don't need to remove the old paint completely but it's a good idea to give it a light rub down so that the surface is slightly rough,' Lee says. 'This slightly rough surface makes it easier for the new paint to grip on. Use fine to medium grit sandpaper (around 120 - 180 grit). Wipe away all the dust with a damp cloth once done.'
If you’re painting a lighter colour over a darker one, then use a coat of primer to help with coverage. If you’re switching between paint types (for example, from gloss to matt, satin to matt etc.), then you'll need to use a bonding primer, like this Zinsser Peel Stop Clear Binding Primer from Amazon. If you're repainting with the same colour and the same type of paint, you can skip this step.
Apply your first coat of paint with a synthetic brush or foam roller. Start with the recessed panels, then move onto the flat surfaces and edges before leaving it to fully dry.
Apply your second coat, then allow to fully dry. Apply a third coat if necessary.

Shineboc

Shineboc Sandpaper Roll 93mm X 10m, 150 Grit

Sanding the front door before you repaint it will make the world of difference to the end result. This Shineboc roll has the ideal grit for the job, and you get 10 metres for just under £10. That's plenty enough to get the job done.

Harris

Harris Essentials Walls & Ceilings Paint Brushes

Harris Brushes are seriously good value, and having used them myself, I can vouch for their quality. This set of three will come in handy when painting the front door. The different sizes will allow you to paint over door panelling smoothly.

Ronseal

Ronseal 10 Year Weatherproof 2-In-1 Wood Paint

You'll need a good weatherproof paint for the front door. This 2-in-1 paint and primer from Ronseal has been designed to last for up to 10 years, and can be used on all exterior wood. The sage green colour would be a lovely addition to a front door.

FAQs

How to remove old paint from the front door?

Given that old paint needs to be removed from the front door if there are any signs of peeling, cracking, or flaking, it's important to know how to do this correctly.

'You can remove loose paint with a scraper,' Nick says. 'It's also worth sanding smooth surfaces to help new paint bond effectively.'

A good scraping tool will get all the old paint off. You should then clean the front door thoroughly, ideally with sugar soap, as this will get rid of any dust, dirt and grime, which can prevent proper adhesion.

DIY Doctor

DIY Doctor 4-Piece Scraper Set

This scraper set includes three strippers and one multi-functional putty scraper, so is pretty good value for money. The steel blades are flexible, allowing for easy removal of old paint from the front door.

Do you have to sand a front door before repainting?

Whether you're painting over old paint or starting anew, you should still sand a front door before repainting. Sanding helps to get a much more even finish, because the new paint will grip on to the roughened surface better.

'Even if you’re not stripping it back to the bare wood, you should sand the door,' Lee confirms. 'Light sanding helps the new paint stick and of course smooths out any imperfections.'

(Image credit: Future PLC/Colin Poole)

Do I need to prime if painting over old paint?

Ideally, you should prime your front door before repainting it, even if you're painting over old paint. 'If you're changing colours dramatically or changing the type of paint you're using, then it's definitely recommended to use a primer first,' Lee advises.

'If you're not changing colours or types of paint, you don't have to, but primer is often recommended because it can help with a better finish and a more long lasting result.'

Now we've cleared up whether you can paint over old paint on the front door, will you be giving your home's entrance a refresh this spring?

I asked 6 interior designers and stylists what paint finish is their go-to for walls and ceilings – they all agreed these are the best

Sara Hesikova — Sun, 23 Mar 2025 11:00:00 +0000

Unless you’re a paint expert or a hardcore DIY and home decorating enthusiast, all the different paint finishes and their meanings or what they will end up looking like on your walls can get a little lost in translation. That’s why I asked 6 interior designers and stylists - in other words, the pros that have to pick out paint day in and day out - what paint finish is best for walls and ceilings in their opinion and what their go-tos are.

While the best paint ideas, including the perfect paint finish, will largely depend on the particular room you’re looking to paint, the experts have spoken and almost unanimously agreed on the same best paint finish for walls – and it’s perfectly in line with the current paint trends, too.

When it comes to ceilings, there’s a little bit more variety in their favourites. But that is to be expected as it will largely depend on the shade you’d paint the ‘fifth wall’ - as the ceiling is often referred to - and whether you’re sticking to the same colour as the walls in the name of the colour drenching technique - when you cover or 'drench' all the surfaces in a room in the same colour - or going for something more contrasting.

What’s the best paint finish for walls?

Unlike the ideal paint finish your kitchen walls should be, for the majority of your home, most interior designers and stylists recommend a matt finish instead and reach for it the most themselves when deciding on wall paint for their homes and work projects.

(Image credit: Future PLC/Bee Holmes)

‘My go-to paint finish for walls and ceilings is always matt,’ says Claire Garner, director of Claire Garner Design Studio. ‘Traditionally, finishes with a slight sheen were used for durability, but modern formulations have come a long way. There are now some incredible matt ‘modern’ and ‘intelligent’ finishes that offer both durability and a beautifully soft, chalky look. It’s more liveable, understated and provides the perfect backdrop for a scheme, allowing the details of a space to truly shine.’

Laurie Davidson, interior stylist at Stylemakers, agrees but admits that either a satin or eggshell finish is better for busier areas or ones with condensation such as hallways, bathrooms and kitchens, ‘I prefer a matt look where possible, but in a busy family hallway, for example, a satin finish can help to disguise those knocks and scrapes a bit better. I love texture, so for me, a matt, chalky finish is my go-to and I love clay paint, too.'

Farrow & Ball

Setting Plaster Matt Estate Emulsion Paint 2.5L

Setting Plaster is one of Farrow & Ball's most popular paint shades in 2025. And it looks super stylish in the brand's matt finish called Estate Emulsion. No wonder it's one of the paint colours interior experts swear by.

Dulux

Egyptian Cotton Matt Emulsion Paint 2.5L

The TikTok-viral Dulux Egyptian Cotton paint shade is the perfect neutral and looks the best in the matt finish. Dulux's matt paints are very highly regarded and this one is almost magical as it changes colour quite drastically, depending on the lighting.

Earthborn

Claypaint Hopscotch Ultra Matt Paint 2.5L

As Laurie mentioned, clay paint is excellent to use on walls because it provides a little bit of texture, as well as a chic matt finish. Earthborn's off-white shade Hopscotch is the the brand's colour of the year for 2025 and a neutral like this looks perfect with a clay paint finish.

What’s the best paint finish for ceilings?

If you’re trying to figure out what paint finish to put on your ceiling, the first thing this will depend on is the colour. For a colour-drenched look, just stick with the same paint (and paint finish) as on the wall.

(Image credit: Future PLC/Douglas Gibb)

But if you’re going for a dark, dramatic ceiling to make a statement and draw the eye upwards (as is the current home decor trend), Enass Mahmoud, founder of Studio Enass, recommends opting for a gloss finish.

‘When it comes to painting ceilings, I tend to use a gloss finish, especially for darker tones, this is because it reflects beautifully against ceiling lights and gives a more luxurious feel to it,’ she explains.

Little Greene

Adventurer Intelligent Gloss Paint 2.5L

As demonstrated on the image above, a dark purple ceiling can look stunning - especially as the purple colour trend is coming back. And the plum aubergine Adventurer shade from Little Greene in the Intelligent Gloss finish - a tough, washable paint that provides a 90% level of sheen - would look perfect on a ceiling.

Lick x Soho House

Purple 03 Dumbo House Matt Paint 2.5L

If you wanted to go for a matt ceiling instead - as many interior experts prefer to do, especially when colour drenching - a similar option to Little Greene's Adventurer (which also comes in a matt version, though) is Lick's Purple 03. Only available in a matt or eggshell finish, Lick's paints have really perfected the art of matt paint. And this particular shade is so beautifully rich and deep!

At the end of the day, there is always room for creativity and experimentation. And what paint finish will work for your home largely depends on the specific room you’re making over and what shades you’re going for, as already mentioned. What is your go-to paint finish? And have these recommendations surprised you?

7 smart IKEA IVAR hacks that transform this blank canvas into a striking piece of furniture

Sara Hesikova — Mon, 17 Mar 2025 09:00:00 +0000

There are many IKEA pieces that enjoy much popularity and have reached a cult status. One of the more recent additions - compared to the likes of BILLY and KALLAX - to this hall of fame is the IKEA IVAR cabinet. Made with pine wood and boasting a very simple and straightforward design that we’ve all come to expect of IKEA, it’s only natural that there would be plenty of IKEA IVAR hacks out there to take inspiration from.

The IVAR range was first introduced in 1967 as a shelving system under the name BOSSE. And while the shelves are still available today, most of the IKEA hacks focus on the IVAR cabinets instead.

‘IKEA IVAR is the perfect canvas for creativity,’ says Jana Cagin, founder of Prettypegs, a company specialising in customising IKEA furniture. ‘Its untreated wood, ideal dimensions, and affordability make it easy to personalise.’

However, if you don’t yet own the IVAR cabinet and shopping at IKEA is not the most convenient for you, there are other retailers that sell similar style of cabinets also made with pine wood that you could invest in instead.

Berkfield Home Solid Wood Pine Sideboard

Run, don't walk if you want to snap up this pine cabinet from Debenhams - it's currently cheaper than the IKEA IVAR design itself, priced at £75.

VidaXL Solid Wood Pine Sideboard

If you're looking for an alternative to the IVAR cabinets, VidaXL's pine wood sideboards, like this one sold through Robert Dyas, are the closest match.

VidaXL Solid Wood Pine Sideboard

But Amazon sells the VidaXL pine wood sideboards, too. Including this size that looks almost the same as the single IVAR cabinet.

But without further ado, these are some of my favourite ways to update and personalise the IVAR cabinet beyond recognition that I’ve come across.

1. Create a floating sideboard

(Image credit: Future PLC/David Brittain)

Turning the IVAR cabinets into a sideboard is one of the most popular hacks – and it’s also a fairly easy DIY project. But since the cabinet comes without any legs, one of the options is to affix it to the wall and create a floating sideabord that is perfect for small living room ideas.

‘Transform the IVAR cabinets into a sleek, floating credenza,’ says Alex Stubbs, Flitch interior stylist. ‘Mount the cabinets on the wall, add a custom wood top, and finish with minimalist handles. This clean, floating effect is especially great in smaller spaces, as it frees up floor space.’

And finishing it off with a coat of paint also won’t hurt.

2. Paint a pattern

(Image credit: Future PLC/Joanna Henderson)

Speaking of paint ideas, you don’t have to use it just to cover the whole surface of the IVAR cabinet. You can get a lot more creative than that and paint a pattern instead.

Whether you opt for trending yet timeless stripes and make it part of a stripe drenching scheme or go for something more whimsical and fun for an IKEA playroom idea for your little one, the world is your oyster.

3. Match it with the wall

(Image credit: Tanisha Cannings @butforlove)

Colour drenching has been one of the biggest home decor trends of the last couple of years – and it’s not going anywhere anytime soon. So why not incorporate your IVAR cabinet into your colour drenching scheme by painting it the same colour as the wall, especially if it is such a deliciously beautiful and on-trend burgundy shade like the one Tanisha Cannings of @butforlove on Instagram has used on her IVAR cabinets and walls.

‘I recently tackled a hack project with IKEA IVAR cabinets. I wanted something that was uniquely my own, which is what transpired the project. I didn't have a strict vision for the final product – just trusted the process and stopped when it felt right. This was surprisingly easy and incredibly therapeutic. For me, the journey of transforming simple pieces into something special is just as rewarding as the end result,’ Tanisha says.

And if you’re looking to recreate Tanisha’s colour drenching look, she's used the shade Sommelier by Sherwin-Williams. But I think that Etruscan Red from Farrow & Ball's newly dropped paint shades would be the perfect alternative. This shade was by far my and Ideal Home’s Editor-in-Chief, Heather Young’s favourite from the new range.

Farrow & Ball Modern Etruscan Red Matt Emulsion paint 2.5L

Etruscan Red is an earthy take on the usually bold colour red. It's rich and warm and perfect for the current trend of dark reds and burgundies.

4. Cover with a reeded finish

(Image credit: Prettypegs)

Reeded and fluted finishes are not only the most trending styles for wall panelling in 2025. They also make for a great way to elevate simple pieces of furniture like the IKEA IVAR cabinet.

And while you can largely DIY this by purchasing wooden slats or a reeded panelling kit, Prettypegs offers a range of products specifically designed to hack IKEA’s IVAR cabinets, including fluted panelling like this one to cover the plain doors with.

‘Since not everyone is a DIY expert, we created Prettypegs, allowing anyone to customise their IVAR effortlessly with stylish add-ons,’ Jana at Prettypegs says.

5. Add interesting handles and legs

(Image credit: Prettypegs)

Switching out the handles and potentially even legs on any piece is one of the easiest ways to upcycle furniture. And it’s the perfect way to hack an IKEA piece as they often come with very simple and not very stylish handles, as well as no legs.

And since the IKEA IVAR comes with no legs or handles, this hack is perfect for it. You may have noticed that even Tanisha’s colour-drenched sideboard boasts a set of chic wavy handles and sphere-shaped legs which you can get from Prettypegs again.

Plank Hardware Lovell Circular Knob in Soft Lilac

Plank Hardware make some sophisticated, as well as funky and playful handles, many of which can also be purchased at B&Q. If you're looking to inject some colour into your IVAR cabinet, adding knobs like these lilac ones will do the trick.

Prettypegs Otto Furniture Leg in Ash Wood

At £16.40 for a single leg, these are by no means cheap. But they look so stylish, instantly elevating any piece of furniture they're added to. And they're hard to find elsewhere.

EvergreenheArtCraft wooden wavy handle with bushings and bolts

Anything curvy and wavy is loved in interiors at the moment. So if you'd like to recreate Tanisha's wavy handle look, these Etsy one are the perfect match.

6. Adorn with wallpaper

(Image credit: Prettypegs)

Another way to add some colour and pattern to your IVAR cabinets without the use of paint is going for either decorative stickers or wallpaper if you have any smaller pieces leftover from a previous project.

But if you’re after something a little more tailor-made to the IKEA IVAR cabinets, Prettypegs has teamed up with wallpaper company Photowall, creating a series of peel and stick wallpapers with the perfect dimensions for the IVAR cabinets. My personal favourite is the Morning Light layer design, as pictured above.

7. Elevate with cane inserts

Rattan and cane inserts on furniture have been trending for the last couple of years. And just like Jenn Liu of @jnn.liu.liu on Instagram has pulled off an IKEA KALLAX hack, turning it into a customised bar cabinet for her living room, complete with chic cane inserts like these from Etsy, you can do something similar with IKEA IVAR.

Meg Monde (@megmonde on TikTok) has given it a go and the result not only looks super sophisticated, but it’s also beyond recognition compared to the original. Who would have thought this was once a budget-friendly piece of flatpack furniture?!

@megmonde
♬ Let Me Blow Ya Mind Showmusik Remix - Showmusik

This shows that you never have to settle for plain and boring. There are so many ways to upcycle what you already own and so many IKEA hacks to take advantage of, whether that’s IKEA BILLY bookcase hacks or ways to elevate the IKEA IVAR. Which one was your favourite?

How to paint wooden furniture like a pro – decorating experts share their 5 simple steps for a flawless finish every time

Lauren Bradbury — Thu, 13 Mar 2025 11:00:00 +0000

Knowing how to paint wooden furniture can help you out in a multitude of ways, especially if you want to inject colour into your home or breathe new life into old furniture. But there’s a technique you have to master if you want an even finish every time.

Yes, whether you want to upcycle old furniture or paint IKEA furniture, it’s crucial to understand that you can’t rush the wooden furniture painting process. Poor preparation can result in brush marks and imperfections that will stand out like a sore thumb in your home, and rushing the job is a surefire way to ensure the paint chips or bubbles in just a few months.

That’s why I’ve asked decorating experts to share their 5 simple steps for painting wooden furniture, so you can follow this guide and guarantee a flawless finish every time.

What you'll need

Sandpaper - like these Assorted Hand Sanding Sheets from B&Q
Cleaning cloths - like these SEEP Eco All Purpose Bamboo Cloths from Amazon
Primer - like this Johnstone's Quick Dry Primer Undercoat from Argos
Paint brush - like this Coral Shurglide Paint Brush Set of 5 from Argos
Eggshell paint - like this Farrow & Ball Estate Setting Plaster No.231 Eggshell Paint from B&Q
Decorator's tape - like this Frog Tape Green Multi Surface Painters Masking Tape from Amazon

Step-by-step

1. Prepare the painting space

Just like painting a wall or even painting a fence, painting wooden furniture can be a messy business - and it can also be harmful if you choose to tackle this easy DIY project indoors. So, first and foremost, you need to prepare your painting space.

If you can’t paint wooden furniture outside (or in a larger room such as a garage or shed), make sure you open up any windows and doors to ventilate the area and maintain a constant airflow.

(Image credit: Future PLC/David Giles)

Then, lay the furniture on a dust sheet like this 6 Pack Extra Large Dust Sheets for Decorating to cover your flooring.

You should also cover any nearby furniture if you want to protect it from any drips or spills. Alternatively, you could use any old bed sheets you have lying around for a cheaper option. And when you’ve prepared the area, you can move on to the next step.

2. Prepare the wooden furniture

Although you may be inclined to start painting as soon as possible, Jason Burns from FrogTape warns that moving too fast could result in common paint problems that may ruin your efforts. He says, ‘Preparation is key when it comes to painting wood. Heavy-grained wood, in particular, can be tricky due to its uneven and absorbent texture.’

First, you should remove any hardware from the furniture (if necessary), and then use sugar soap, AKA the decorator’s holy grail, to remove any lingering dirt or grime on the wooden furniture. This Volden Concentrated Liquid Sugar Soap from B&Q is my personal favourite, and can be wiped on using a clean cloth.

(Image credit: Future PLC/Tim Young)

Then, Jason advises you to use a few squares of sandpaper to smooth the surface. He says, ‘If it is unfinished, lightly sand the surface to smooth out any rough spots or splinters. You will need to cut your sandpaper down to small sizes to ensure you get in any small gaps such as between spindles or around the top of legs.’

He adds, ‘If you are painting over existing paint or varnish, you will need a much coarser sandpaper as there might be chips and cracks in the paint or varnish. After sanding, wipe away dust with a damp cloth and let the surface dry.’

3. Apply a coat of primer

Next, you need to apply a coat of primer to your wooden furniture. And while you can buy 2-in-1 primers and paint, these limit your colour options and will never be as effective as a standalone primer.

As Jason explains, ‘Applying a primer before painting as this helps create a more even surface, and will make your job a lot easier if the wood is particularly absorbent.’ This will ultimately result in a smoother, flawless finish when painting wooden furniture.

(Image credit: Future PLC/Caroline Mardon)

You should only need to apply one coat of primer and although you don’t need to worry too much about painting the primer perfectly, you should try your best to apply an even coverage.

This is the case no matter what you’re painting, whether that be your kitchen cabinets or this Elsie 'Paint Your Own' Floor Lamp Base from Dunelm. Then, just wait for the primer to dry before moving on to the next step.

4. Choose the correct paint

Now you get to the fun bit of choosing the best paint for furniture. Of course, much of this next step is subjective, as you can either choose to opt for an emerging paint trend or your personal preference. Whatever you do, though, Emma Bestley, Creative Director and Co-Founder of YesColours suggests opting for eggshell paint during this stage.

She says, ‘Eggshell is always best when painting furniture as it offers a higher sheen than emulsion and is wipeable and hardwearing once dry. Once your furniture is prepped, think about how you want it to fit into the room you envision it in.’

(Image credit: Future PLC/Bee Holmes)

She adds, ‘With small rooms, you can afford to go as bold as you like when upcycling furniture. Highly saturated colours look great in rooms decorated in a dark palette: try zesty shades of yellow, or a Majorelle-inspired blue. For punchier brights try uplifting shades of green or pink, or breathe life into neutrals and whites with ice-cream shades of lilac and peach.’

If you need a little help choosing, though, our guide on how to choose the perfect paint colour every time can point you in the right direction.

5. Get painting

With your paint colour chosen, you can then paint your wooden furniture. Don’t be tempted to use a roller for this step, though - especially if you want an even finish.

‘Use a smaller acrylic brush to apply the paint,’ advises Sophie Smith from Zhoosh Paints. ‘Even on larger pieces of furniture, a smaller brush will ensure you get the right amount of paint in the grooves, corners and joins.’

(Image credit: Future PLC/David Parmiter)

It’s also a good idea to apply two coats of paint during this step. And while how long you should wait between coats of paint will vary depending on the specific paint you use, it’s generally considered best practice to wait at least 24 hours between coats.

Just make sure you clean your paintbrushes when you’re done so you won’t have to buy more next time you want to paint wooden furniture.

Guild Paint Spray Gun

If you're painting larger pieces of furniture, you could also use a spray gun. This won't negate the need for an actual paint brush, but it can speed up the painting process. This one has three settings, so you can adjust the nozzle to suit the wooden furniture you're painting.

FAQs

Should you paint furniture with a roller or brush?

Most experts would agree that you should paint furniture with a brush, as it will allow you to get into the smaller nooks and crannies and offer an all-around flawless finish.

However, that’s not to say that you can’t use a roller at all if you think it would serve you better. Rollers can be effective when painting larger pieces of furniture or bigger surface areas like wardrobe doors. Just be warned that you might not get the finish you’re after.

How do you paint wood furniture without brush marks?

The best way to reduce the chances of brush marks when painting wooden furniture is to prep the furniture before you start painting. By cleaning and sanding the wood beforehand, you can remove any imperfections that could be highlighted further when you paint.

When you’ve done this, you should then paint thin, even coats of paint and wait at least 24 hours before painting a second coat. If you’re not happy with the first coat of paint, it may be worth sanding any imperfections you see before painting again to ensure a smooth finish.

Hopefully this guide will set you up for success to paint your wooden furniture, but do you have any other handy tips to share? Let us know about your DIY successes (or even any DIY failures!) in the comments.

4 surprising areas in your home that experts say you really shouldn't paint white – and what to do with them instead

Sara Hesikova — Thu, 13 Mar 2025 08:00:00 +0000

White paint is often seen as the default to cover pretty much anything and everything in our homes, coating the walls and architectural features of most rooms. But it doesn’t have to be this way – in fact, there are areas of your home that shouldn’t be painted white. In fact, they would look so much better and work harder for the overall look of the space if they were painted a different colour.

So when it comes to certain DIY jobs, it’s better to leave even your best white paint alone and reach for another shade. Depending what it is that you're painting, it might not even be something overly vibrant – just changing from stark white to a neutral colour can be the perfect paint idea for your space and it often makes a world of difference.

‘White paint can be quite unforgiving,’ explains Tash Bradley, Lick’s director of interior design and colour psychologist. ‘It can highlight every imperfection on walls. It can also feel stark and uninviting in spaces that lack natural light. It also requires more maintenance, as marks, scuffs, and dirt are more visible compared to deeper tones.’

Bailey Oates, colour expert at Earthborn, adds, ‘While white can give a clean, modern appearance, they often lack the comfort, depth, and individuality that homeowners seek in their homes.'

1. The ceiling

(Image credit: Future PLC/James French)

We’re starting with quite a controversial answer because the ceiling is a tricky one - and one that tends to be painted white more often than not. There are of course times that a white ceiling can work, especially if your walls are white, too. But there is a misconception that a ceiling should be always left plain white and that’s just simply not the case.

In fact, two of the biggest paint trends of this year are painting the ceiling a bold, contrasting colour and colour drenching, where one shade covers all the surfaces of a room - including the ceiling.

‘A painted white ceiling was a traditional way to make a room feel lighter and more spacious that became really popular way back in the 1940s and stuck until recently when lighting became a key feature of the home, multilayered and controllable,’ says Marianne Shillingford, creative director and colour expert at Dulux.

‘It still works today but somehow it looks odd when a beautiful wall colour stops dead at a sea of white overhead. Personally, I love a coloured ceiling. It’s the final piece of the jigsaw in pulling a look together and maybe because it’s still not something every home has, it feels quite special.’

Dulux True Joy Paint

When Dulux launched True Joy, its colour of the year for 2025, one of the ways the brand suggested using it was on the ceiling, and I still love that idea of a bright yellow ceiling reminiscent of a sunny sky.

Preferred partner

2. Open-plan spaces

(Image credit: Future PLC/Mark O'Flaherty)

Many of us love the idea of open-plan, white loft-like spaces flooded with light. But having such a huge canvas go to waste by choosing to make an open-plan living room plain white rather than making either a colour statement or using colour to zone different areas of the space feels like a missed opportunity.

‘Open-plan spaces, if painted entirely white, can sometimes feel flat and lacking in depth – adding tonal variation through soft neutrals or deeper shades helps create warmth and definition,’ says Tash at Lick.

Farrow & Ball

Setting Plaster

A soft neutral is preferable in an open-plan space over plain white, but a pale, earthy shade of pink can work almost like a neutral and just as well. Setting Plaster is one of Farrow & Ball bestselling paint shades in 2025 and one that interior experts swear by.

3. Skirting boards

(Image credit: Future PLC/Simon Whitmore)

‘Painting your skirting boards a simple white throughout your home is a way to connect all the individual rooms together so your home feels seamless and cohesive,' explains Marianne from Dulux. 'But it can also amplify dirt and scuffs so using other colours can be more practical and arguably more personalised and stylish.'

The prominence of white glossy skirting boards in UK’s homes is a pet peeve of many interior and paint experts, including interior designer Kelly Hoppen. As a result, most recommend opting for a coloured skirting boards.

‘Colour drenching skirting boards in the same colour as the walls creates a seamless, contemporary look, making a space feel bigger and more cohesive,' says Tash. 'If you want to highlight period features, using a slightly darker shade or an off-white with a softer tone can add elegance without feeling stark.'

Little Greene Dark Brunswick Green Paint 2.5L

If you're looking for some alternative skirting board colour ideas then forest green would be at the top of my list. Green has become one of the go-to decorating colours recently and a dark shade like this one on the skirting boards would make for a considered feature.

4. Dark, narrow hallways

(Image credit: Future PLC/James Merrell)

You’d probably think that white paint would make for a good narrow hallway idea in order to expand and brighten the space. But that’s not necessarily the case, especially if your narrow hallway lacks natural light.

‘In narrow hallways, white can feel stark and clinical rather than warm and inviting,' says Tash. 'And white in a hallway without much natural light can feel cold and flat. Instead, using a soft, warm neutral or even a deep, rich colour creates depth and makes the space feel cosier.'

Lick x Calm Blue 08 Matt Paint 2.5L

If you're working with a dark, narrow hallway then a light colour with warm undertones will work best. I particularly love this baby blue from Lick, complete with warm yellow undertones.

Since these four spots that shouldn’t be painted white are quite unexpected, I fully appreciate that it these takes can be quite controversial, too. So are there any that you think shouldn’t be on this list? Or what would you add instead?

Stacey Solomon has revealed the easiest way to update tired windowsills – DIY experts agree it’s a great budget solution

Kezia Reynolds — Wed, 12 Mar 2025 07:00:00 +0000

Stacey Solomon has revealed her preferred way to give your aged windowsills a glow up and all you need is a roll of vinyl.

During her hit show Sort Your Life Out, the influencer and presenter famed for her DIY hacks and neutral aesthetic showed us how she gave a tired windowsill a much-needed makeover. The easy DIY project consisted of using a roll of self-adhesive vinyl wrap to breath new life into the windowsill.

We asked DIY experts their thoughts and they agreed with Stacey - a vinyl wrap is a cheap and effective way to conceal old, tired windowsills.

@thewrapchap
♬ original sound - The Wrap Chap

Helping the Jamesion family during episode four of series five of the hit BBC1 show work through three generations of clutter, Stacey said: ‘I've got a clever way to spruce up the windowsills.

‘So many people, myself included, have these uPVC windows - and after a long time the windowsills get a bit gross and you just don't know what to do with it.

‘So, I'm using a vinyl wrap to try and make this look just a little bit better.’

Stacey used a smoothing tool to push the edges of the vinyl flat, whilst also telling viewers that a hairdryer could be an effective tool for smoothing out any air bubbles that get trapped in your vinyl. The result was a clear improvement, and a home repair you can easily do at home without a professional.

‘With vinyl, you can give a windowsill a new look without painting or replacing it. It comes in plenty of finishes. You can go for a sleek, modern style or even fake the look of marble or wood. Plus, it’s super easy to wipe clean, which is great for busy spaces,’ Says Jane Wilson, cleaning expert and manager at Fantastic Cleaners.

Why you should use vinyl on your windowsills

Another reason to use vinyl to wrap your windowsills is because of its long lifespan - so you don’t have to worry about constantly replacing your vinyl.

‘A high-quality vinyl wrap, when properly applied and well-maintained, can last anywhere from five to seven years,’ says Glen Peskett, home maintenance expert and founder of Saxton Blades.

‘It's lifespan depends on multiple factors such as the quality of the vinyl, exposure to sunlight, humidity levels, and how well it's cleaned and cared for.’

(Image credit: BBC)

If you choose to use vinyl to give your windowsill a refresh, it’s important you keep on top of cleaning as if your window has existing issues with damp, mould and condensation, further ssues could arise.

‘Vinyl could trap dampness underneath, creating a breeding ground for mould. It’s essential to thoroughly clean and dry the surface before application and check for any condensation buildup regularly,’ says Jane.

Of course, you can also re-paint your windowsills or if it is in dire need of an upgrade, consider replacing it. However, if you’re looking for an affordable solution, vinyl is a great choice.

‘If you are trying to refresh your window sills on a budget, this method is ideal. It’s inexpensive and an easy application, so as long as you are prepared to put in some elbow grease and keep them well maintained, this hack is a good method to change your window sills and give them a fresh look,’ says Glen.

Will you be giving the method a try?

D-C-Fix Vinyl Wrap Light Oak Wood Effect 90 Cm X 2,1 M

This rich wooden tone is great for achieving a cottagecore look at home.

D-C-Fix Terrazzo Self Adhesive Vinyl Film

Why not opt for a funkier print like this terrazzo vinyl which can extra visual texture to your space.

Vinyl Frog White Self Adhesive Vinyl

A fresh white vinyl will make your windowsill look brand new and gleaming.

Experts reveal how to fix drafty windows quickly - all you need is a roll of sellotape

Kezia Reynolds — Sun, 09 Mar 2025 13:00:00 +0000

The weather may be getting warmer but spring is often unpredictable - and if a sudden gust has indicated a draught in your windows, this common stationery product could be the temporary fix you need to stay warm.

Now stay with me, it may sound strange but sellotape is an excellent draught-proofing idea for windows and conservatories. Acting as a temporary seal, it’s effective at keeping the cold out while you find the best long-term solution.

And the best thing - you probably already have the sticky tape in your home office or stationery drawer - this is everything you need to know.

How to fix drafty windows with Sellotape

Considering what feels like an never-ending increase of energy bills, we all want to keep the heat in our homes - which is why you’ll want to know how to draught-proof a window. Now using sellotape won’t seal your windows forever, but it is great for sticking on the draught as soon as you notice.

‘Placing sellotape around the window acts as a barrier against any slight gaps between the glass and window pane, covering places where draughts may be able to seep through,’ says Sam Tamlyn, Managing Director and Interiors Expert at California Shutters.

(Image credit: Future PLC/ Maxwell Attenborough)

‘These gaps may even be so small that you’re unable to see them, but they’re still making your home colder. Sellotape is made from cellulose film and natural rubber/glues, which create a great barrier, almost the same as filler would, to stop draughts.’

It may look a little unsightly, after all, no-one wants to include tape in their window treatment ideas, but it as an effective method.

Should you use sellotape to seal window draughts

While sellotape is an effective barrier, it should only be used temporarily while you sort a more permanent solution.

‘Sellotape cannot usually be used as a permanent solution for sticking anything, so it is likely that it will only last for a few days before it begins to peel away. If the surface the sellotape was stuck to was not clean or dry beforehand, it will probably peel away faster,’ explains Liam Spencer, glass expert and owner of Northallerton Glass.

(Image credit: Future/James French)

You should also consider if your windows are prone to condensation, as this can also affect the stickiness of the tape if it gets wet.

‘While sellotape can be a quick and inexpensive fix, it's not the most reliable or long-lasting solution. For better results, consider using self-adhesive draught strips or weather stripping, which are designed specifically for this purpose and provide a more durable seal. These alternatives are also relatively inexpensive and easy to apply,’ says Sam.

Overall, sellotap is great for when you first spot a draught - however, for a long-term fix we recommend investing in draught strips or insulation tape instead.

Window Draft Excluder

Suitable for a range of windows and doors, all you need to do is cut the strips to size and stick to your draughty window.

Gems Clear Silicone Sealant

Waterproof and mould-resistant, this silicone sealant is a strong adhesive capable of sealing draughts - it's clear, too, so you don't have to worry about seeing it.

Wickes 5m Pile Tape Draught Seal - Grey

This draught seal tape is suitable for gaps of 3-5mm around doors and windows, making it a perfect fit for drafty windows.

7 IKEA KALLAX hacks to elevate your simple cube storage units beyond recognition

Sara Hesikova — Mon, 03 Mar 2025 09:00:00 +0000

When thinking of the most popular IKEA pieces of furniture that people know and love - and likely have in their homes - the KALLAX cube storage unit kept coming up. This simple and straightforward storage piece is versatile, affordable and comes in many different sizes – which is exactly why IKEA KALLAX hacks are so easy and popular to do.

That’s why I’ve collated some of the best IKEA hacks using the unassuming IKEA KALLAX units of all shapes and sizes to provide you with some inspiration for one of your next easy DIY projects, transforming your very own KALLAX into something unrecognisable and most importantly super stylish.

‘The allure of the IKEA KALLAX lies in its understated elegance and remarkable adaptability,’ says Alex Stubbs, Flitch interior stylist. ‘It integrates effortlessly into an array of environments, from a bustling household to a minimalist apartment. The clean lines and simple structure invite customisation, making it a discreet yet indispensable component of any room.’

And if you have yet to purchase your very own KALLAX but prefer to shop elsewhere, there are now several other retailers from Argos to Amazon that offer the same cube storage units like the below.

Vida Designs Oxford 4 Tier Cube Bookcase

Not only is shopping on Amazon probably more convenient for most, this four-tier storage unit is also cheaper than the KALLAX equivalent by £13.

Habitat Squares Plus 4 Cube Storage Unit

While this cube storage unit from Habitat is more pricey compared to IKEA, it might be more convenient for you to add this one to your shopping cart while ordering other things from Argos that stocks it too.

GoodHome Mixxit White Freestanding 8 shelf Rectangular Shelving unit

If you're buying your cube storage unit with the intent of performing some hacks on it, you will likely need to shop at B&Q, too, to get some DIY materials. So why not do it all in one place and add this GoodHome unit to your basket.

1. Use it as a bench

(Image credit: Future PLC/Dominic Blackmore)

Using your KALLAX storage as a bench is one of the easiest ways to transform it. All you really need to do is turn it on its side and put some cushions or a seating cushion with the right measurements on top. But, of course, you can push this project further if you so wish, whether that’s by painting your IKEA furniture, adding legs or even doors to conceal anything you’re storing in the cubes.

‘Turning a KALLAX into a cosy bench is just brilliant,’ confirms Sam Sutherland, Flitch interior stylist. ‘Pop a cushion on top and you've got a trendy spot to sit and store.’

This can go anywhere from the hallway and store your shoes underneath to a reading nook or even the bottom of your bed.

2. Turn it into a chic bar

(Image credit: Jenn Liu @jnn.liu.liu)

Cane furniture has been trending for some time now – and yet its stylish appeal shows no signs of slowing down. Jenn Liu of @jnn.liu.liu championed the cane furniture trend with her IKEA KALLAX transformation, making it into a chic bar for her living room.

For this, she used the square four-cube version of KALLAX to which she added legs and doors with cane inserts. And voila!

3. Customise it with inserts

(Image credit: Laura Barber @lifeatolddenehouse)

Many of you might not know that IKEA, as well as other brands now, also sell shelf inserts designed for the KALLAX cubes that makes each cube more efficient and organised depending on what it is you’re using it for – similarly to the IKEA PAX wardrobes. I sure didn’t know until coming across Laura Barber’s Instagram posts (@lifeatolddenehouse) showing how she’s tackled storage in her children’s bedroom in an aesthetically pleasing yet functional way.

‘The KALLAX is the perfect storage solution for a kids room. I saw the HARVMATTA, which is meant to be a letter tray, in IKEA and thought it would work perfectly for storing puzzles and books in a KALLAX unit instead and it works great! I also use the KALLAX insert with one shelf for storing toys I like to have on display to give more storage and display capacity,’ Laura explains.

But there are certain inserts that are more decorative than functional and those can make your KALLAX just a whole lot more fun.

‘Another really fun idea for KALLAX is the Funserts made by a small UK business, which are KALLAX inserts with fun designs on, like a space theme, that fit perfectly and can turn a KALLAX into a fun play scene,’ Laura adds.

Funserts Planet Landing & Space Station Corridor Adventure Insert

I particularly love this space-inspired insert from Funserts which I think can work for rooms used by kids and adults alike. But in their Etsy store, Funserts has even more playful designs if that's what you're after.

GoodHome Konnect Natural Oak Effect Divider

If you need smaller slots for organising your items, then adding something like this divider would be perfect.

IKEA KALLAX Insert with 1 shelf

If you want to replicate Laura's approach and simply divide one (or more) of the storage cubes in half, this IKEA insert will do the trick.

4. Transform it into a stylish bookcase

(Image credit: Kanza Borthwick @handmadehome_durham)

Similarly to some of the impressive IKEA BILLY bookcase hacks, IKEA KALLAX can, too, be turned into a bookcase with a high-end look. Just take this stylish arched design created by Kanza Borthwick of @handmadehome_durham.

‘We bought these wallet-friendly IKEA KALLAX units when we first got married but as our interior style started to change, they didn’t quite fit the scene. Problem was, they were still in great shape and so darn useful so we didn’t want to just toss them out either! Nope, DIY time!' Kenza says.

'We got some moisture-resistant MDF from cutmy.co.uk, cut out these cool arches and slapped them onto the KALLAX units using a super strong adhesive and some brad nails. A bit of caulk made all the seams nice and smooth. We then scuff-sanded the entire unit, gave it a coat of Zinsser primer and used some Farrow & Ball paint in Hague Blue we had lying around. Sealed it all with some furniture wax and voila, it’s finally vibing perfectly with our style and is still the storage rockstar it always was,’ Kenza describes the making process.

Alternatively, instead of MDF, you could also use these curved furniture appliques from Etsy, specifically designed to fit the IKEA KALLAX.

HomeArtStickers KALLAX Furniture Overlay

This overlay can easily be affixed to your eight-cube KALLAX unit and elevate it beyond recognition. But if you prefer, there are also individual arches for individual cubes available to buy on Etsy.

5. Accommodate your pet

(Image credit: IKEA)

If you’re a cat owner then just know that the IKEA KALLAX can make for the perfect home for your little feline. Last year, IKEA launched the UTSÅDD pet collection and one of the most popular pieces has been the cat house insert for the KALLAX unit.

But since then, several other retailers have come out with their takes on the look. These are some of my favourites.

TRIXIE Ella Cuddly Cave

Curves and arches are one of the biggest home decor trends. So why not extend it to your cat's house too?

Argos 2 In 1 Cat Box Bed

Not only is this a perfectly cushioned cube cat house, but it also doubles as a cat bed by removing the top half in light grey. Genius!

IKEA UTSÅDD cat house

And last but not least, the original bestselling cat house from IKEA. It is a bit more simple and plain compared to some other designs but it is also very affordable, priced at £5. And you can always make it a little more comfortable for your pet by adding a soft cushion.

6. Add doors for an elegant sideboard

(Image credit: Future PLC/James French)

Simply adding chic doors to your IKEA KALLAX can completely transform the look of the unit and turn it into a chic sideboard.

‘I particularly appreciate transforming the KALLAX by adding legs, giving it a mid-century modern lift that integrates seamlessly into a more curated space. Installing door inserts to conceal clutter is another hack I favour; it maintains the unit’s sleek appearance while providing practical storage solutions,’ Alex at Flitch says.

I particularly like reeded doors like the ones in the image above. That’s also the look that content creator Kirsten McGowan (@kirstenmcgowan on TikTok) has gone for when transforming her IKEA KALLAX – and what an amazing result!

@kristen.mcgowan
who else has an IKEA Kallax unit- full tutorial linked in bio! #ikeahack #ikea #diy #diyikea #kallax #kallaxhack
♬ original sound - Kristen McGowan

7. Make it into a dollhouse

(Image credit: Future PLC/Tim Young)

If you’re looking for some IKEA playroom ideas and/or want to use what you already own then utilising the square IKEA KALLAX unit and turning it into a dollshouse is a great idea.

Each of the cubes serves as a room which you and your little one can decorate - whether that’s just with little furniture or opting for one of the aforementioned inserts from Funserts, available from Etsy. Giving the dollhouse a new coat of paint and perhaps even building a roof will take the design even further.

What’s your favourite IKEA KALLAX hack? Let me know, especially if I missed it out on this list.

How to patch up holes in a wall — restore your walls to their former glory, no DIY experience required

Lauren Bradbury — Fri, 21 Feb 2025 11:02:00 +0000

Whether you’ve accidentally knocked your wall, switched up the photo frames in your house, or removed other shelves or decorations, it’s not uncommon to be left with holes all around you. But instead of leaving them to become an eyesore (or potentially get even worse), it’s pretty easy to patch up holes in a wall.

In fact, doing this is one of the easiest home repairs you can do. There’s no need to call out a tradesperson, there’s no need to put aside a whole weekend to tick it off your to-do list, and you’ll be able to bring your feature wall ideas to life in no time - no previous DIY experience required.

To patch up holes in a wall, all you need to do is follow this step-by-step guide, making sure you don't skip this crucial step, and have a few tools and products at your disposal. Then, you’ll know exactly what to do next time you want to move your gallery wall or drop your phone down the stairs.

What you'll need

Multi-purpose filler - like this Polycell Multi-Purpose Polyfilla Ready Mixed from Amazon
Filling knife - like this 3" Light duty Filling knife, Pack of 3 from B&Q
Sandpaper - like this Pack of 10 Sandpaper Sheets from Amazon
Vacuum cleaner - like this Dyson Gen5detect Cordless Vacuum Cleaner from Argos
Primer - like this Dunelm White Paint Primer

Step-by-step

1. Prep the hole

(Image credit: Future PLC/Caroline Mardon)

Although you can just fill a hole in a wall straight off the bat, you’ll achieve much better results if you prep the hole first. Thankfully, this won’t take long at all and will take just an extra five minutes of your time.

This is echoed by Glen Peskett a DIY and multitools expert at Saxton Blades, who says, ‘Before you even think about filler, the key is getting the area properly prepped. Take a utility knife or an old filling knife and scrape out any loose material around the hole. This might seem counterintuitive, but widening the hole slightly actually helps the filler stick better.’

Of course, this can be a messy business, so it’s a good idea to grab one of the best vacuums and suck up any loose debris that falls out during this step.

2. Fill the hole and wait to dry

(Image credit: Future PLC/Tim Young)

Then, you can move onto the fun part - actually filling the hole. There are countless different products you can use for this task, but the easiest one to use is a multi-purpose filler. You can typically buy this either in a tube form (with a nozzle that can be inserted directly into the hole) or in a tub.

If you opt for the latter, Glen advises, ‘Load a small amount onto the filling knife and press it firmly into the hole, smoothing it out as you go.’ In fact, Glen prefers this method as he finds that ‘it’s best to work in thin layers rather than slapping on too much at once; you want the filler to be slightly raised above the wall so you can sand it down later, but not so thick that you create a bump.’

And if the hole in your wall is particularly large, it’s important to note that you may have to add a few coats of this filler to fill it completely, making sure the last one dries before you add the next.

3. Grab your sandpaper

(Image credit: Future PLC/David Giles)

Most people want to patch up holes in a wall to create a flawless base for another coat of paint or to remove obvious eyesores from their eyelines. But when the filler dries, the area can look just as obvious if you don’t sand it down.

So, Glen suggests that you grab your fine sandpaper and give the area a little once-over. Daryl Shepherd, B&Q’s Head of Buying for Building & Construction says, 'Keep going until the filler is smooth and flush to the wall, making sure to wear appropriate eye protection and a dust mask.’

Don’t worry if you accidentally sand the area down too much, though. Simply repeat step two and then sand the area down again, doing so a little gentler this time.

4. Prime and paint to finish

(Image credit: Future PLC/James French)

If you just want to patch up a hole in a wall because you accidentally drilled into the wrong place, you might be able to skip this step and hide the filled hole with a photo frame or other type of wall decor - especially if you have white painted walls. But if you are completely redecorating and want the patched-up hole to disappear completely, you’ll then need to prime and paint.

During this stage, how you paint a room is key. But while there are specific steps you need to follow to do this properly, you have free reign when it comes to the paint idea you choose. Just don’t forget the primer.

Glen says, ‘A coat of primer is a must; it stops the paint from soaking in unevenly. Once the primer is dry, feather the paint out around the repair to blend it into the rest of the wall. If I’m touching up an older wall, I’ll often paint a larger section rather than just the patched area to get an even look.’

FAQs

What is the best thing to fill holes in the wall with?

Filler is generally considered the best thing to fill holes in a wall with, as it’s flexible and dries quickly. It can also create a flush finish, allowing you to prime and paint over it with ease.

However, it’s important to note that filler is only really advisable for smaller-to-medium-sized holes. If you have large holes in your wall, you may need to use expandable foam or a specialised product like these 10 Pack Drywall Repair Patches from Amazon.

Do you have to prime walls after patching?

If you are just patching over tiny nail holes or smaller areas of wall, it might not be necessary to prime walls after patching. But if you want to create an even finish and are patching up larger holes on areas of wall that are on show, it’s advisable to prime walls before painting.

Doing so will allow for an even paint coverage and prevent flaking and bubbling, and reduce the appearance of imperfections on the wall.

Do you have to paint the whole wall after patching?

No, not necessarily. If you’ve only patched up a small section of wall, you may be able to get away with painting the patched-over area alone - as long as you use the exact same paint colour. But if you have patched up a larger area or you’re not sure you’ve bought the same paint, it’s well worth painting the whole wall after patching. This will ensure a cohesive look and prevent any unwanted patches.

So, there you have it! If you have any other tips for patching up holes in a wall, let us know.

I asked 6 interior stylists and designers about their favourite IKEA hacks – this is the one that kept coming up

Sara Hesikova — Thu, 20 Feb 2025 08:00:00 +0000

Who doesn’t love IKEA?! I'm a huge fan of the Swedish brand’s simple, versatile pieces of furniture and affordable price points. But more often than not, a new or secondhand IKEA piece will need a little update to make it fit your home and style, whether that’s through a fresh lick of paint or some more intensive DIY. There are so many IKEA hacks online (not all good) so I asked a handful of interior stylists and designers about their favourite IKEA hack.

IKEA hacks are the various methods people come up with to transform their flatpack pieces of furniture into something more elevated and unique. They can range from easy DIY projects to more complex build-ins. ‘IKEA offers a wide selection of versatile pieces that can be easily transformed with a bit of creativity,’ says interior designer Julie Anne Burch. ‘The beauty of IKEA furniture is its adaptability – you can turn something mass-produced into a one-of-a-kind piece that reflects your personal style.’

But when asking interior stylists and designers, there was one clear IKEA hack winner that kept coming up – and perhaps unsurprisingly enough, it’s an IKEA BILLY bookcase hack.

(Image credit: Future PLC/Brent Darby)

What’s the most popular IKEA hack among interior stylists?

IKEA’s BILLY bookcase is one of the retailer’s bestselling pieces – and it’s the target of many an IKEA hack like this TikToker’s blue library of dreams. The stylists’ and designers’ favourite thing about this hack is that you can make a budget-friendly piece like this one turn into something with a built-in look that would otherwise cost thousands of pounds.

‘The BILLY bookcase is a classic, but the real trick is making it look bespoke,’ says Alex Stubbs, Flitch interior stylist. ‘A bit of MDF panelling and crown moulding can turn it into a ‘fitted’ library for a fraction of the cost of joinery. Paint it in a heritage shade - think Farrow & Ball’s De Nimes or Little Greene’s Slaked Lime - for that polished, high-end look.’

Laurie Davidson, interior stylist of Stylemakers, agrees, ‘As stylists, we love to take IKEA pieces and get creative with them. For me, the ultimate IKEA hack has to be those using the BILLY bookcase to achieve shelving that looks bespoke and built-in. Adding some doors and wood trim to the top and bottom just gives them a really high-end look, especially when they're painted to match your decor and have some wall lights fitted too.'

(Image credit: Future PLC/Douglas Gibb)

What are the favourite interior stylists’ IKEA hack runner ups?

Giving the plain IKEA IVAR cabinet a makeover is another popular hack among interior stylists and designers alike – and it’s a much easier one compared to the BILLY hack.

‘I love flipping an IVAR cabinet into a statement sideboard with slatted wood detailing,’ says Sam Sutherland, Flitch interior stylist.

Alex agrees, ‘IVAR’s pine finish is great for customisation. I love adding reeded glass doors or painting it in a deep moody tone like Railings by Farrow & Ball, then pairing it with aged brass handles. It’s an easy way to bring character to a modern space while keeping that timeless, organic feel.’

(Image credit: Future PLC/Tim Young)

And while the other might not be as drastic as most IKEA hacks, simply knowing how to paint IKEA furniture and change the hardware is the stylists' and designers’ go-to method to transform an IKEA piece without too much effort.

‘Simple modifications like painting the entire piece or just certain sections in a bold or unexpected colour can make a big impact. Swapping out standard handles for unique, decorative hardware, or adding custom fabric to doors or panels, are also great ways to personalise and elevate the look,’ Julie Anne Burch advises.

Laurie of Stylemakers concludes, ‘The beauty of these projects is that if it goes wrong, it hasn't cost you a fortune, and you have the opportunity to turn a low-key item into something more luxe looking.’

How to make a wire wreath - adorn your home with this unique spin on a spring wreath

Anna-Lisa De'Ath — Thu, 06 Feb 2025 14:15:00 +0000

Spring wreath ideas usually focus on fresh or dried flowers, whether that's a timeless wreath that can be used all year round, or a design made with spring blooms or living bulbs.

But this stylish metal wreath puts a twist on traditional spring wreath ideas. Using wire and modelling clay, it can be used year after year, welcoming spring into your home with its everlasting display.

Craft expert and writer Anna-Lisa De-Ath from My Crafty Country Life shares her step-by-step instructions for making your own.

This article first appeared in Country Homes & Interiors. Subscribe and save here.

(Image credit: Future PLC / Anna-Lisa De'Ath)

You will need

Most of the items listed below are easily available at Hobbycraft and Amazon.

1. Make the hoop

(Image credit: Future PLC/Anna-Lisa De'Ath)

Begin by making your basic hoop shape.

Cut a 2m length of aluminium wire and bend it into a circle with a 30cm diameter and a double thickness of wire. There should be an overlap of wire approximately halfway around the hoop where you’ll have three layers of wire; this will form the base of the hoop.

Use florist’s binding wire to wrap all the way around the hoop to hold it together and add strength. Keep checking as you bind the hoop to ensure it stays in a nice circular shape.

2. Make the wire flowers

(Image credit: Future PLC/Anna-Lisa De'Ath)

We made wire snowdrops. To make the flowers, cut a 30cm length of binding wire and make a loop halfway along it. Use jewellery pliers and your fingers to bend the loop into three petal shapes. Pinch the narrow ends of the petals together with the pliers and bind them together with the other end of the wire to form the bulbous ‘ovary’ of the snowdrop.

Make another loop further down the stem of the snowdrop, twist the base of the loop to hold it in place, then pinch the ends together to form a narrow leaf shape.

To attach the snowdrop to the wreath, simply wind the end of the stem tightly around the wire hoop.

3. Make the wire leaves

(Image credit: Future PLC/Anna-Lisa De'Ath)

To create leaf shapes, cut a 20cm length of binding wire.

Make a loop at one end, leaving a ‘tail’ of wire, twist to hold the loop in place.

Use jewellery pliers to pinch the loop into your desired leaf shape, then bend the ‘tail’ into the centre of the leaf shape to create a ‘spine’.

To attach the leaves to the wreath, wind the ends of the stems tightly around the wire hoop, as before.

4. Make the wire grasses

(Image credit: Future PLC/Anna-Lisa De'Ath)

To form the wire grasses, you’ll need a knitting needle to wind the wire around.

Making the spiral grasses is easy, simply cut a 20cm length of binding wire and wind one end around the knitting needle to form a spiral, leaving 10cm wire straight at the other end.

To create the other grass shapes, cut a 20cm length of binding wire and wind it once in alternate directions around the knitting needle to create loops on either side of the stem. You can choose to keep these loops round, or pinch the ends with your pliers to form more pointed seed shapes. Attach the ends of the stems to the wreath as before.

5. Cut out the clay flowers

(Image credit: Future PLC/Anna-Lisa De'Ath)

To create the clay flower shapes, roll out a block of polymer clay between two sheets of baking parchment to a depth of 2-3mm. The parchment will prevent the clay from sticking to your work surface and stop it picking up any fluff and dust.

Use icing cutters to cut a selection of flowers from the clay. Roll a small ball of yellow clay between your fingers and press it into the centre of each flower shape.

Use a scalpel to cut leaf shapes from green polymer clay. Make a hole in the centre of each flower and leaf, using a cocktail stick or skewer.

Place the flowers and leaves on a baking tray, lined with parchment, and cure in a preheated oven at 110ºC for 30 minutes.

6. Construct the wreath

(Image credit: Future PLC/Anna-Lisa De'Ath)

Once the leaves and flowers have cooled, thread a 10cm length of wire through the hole in each one and twist with your pliers to hold the clay firmly in place to stop it from flopping.

As before, wind the stems of the flowers and leaves tightly into position between the wire snowdrops, leaves and grasses on the wire hoop. Finally, attached a length of ribbon to the top of the wreath to hang it from.

Your beautiful wreath should brighten up any wall or door and last for years to come.

Is painting your floors ever a good idea? It can be, but only as long as you follow these expert recommendations

Sara Hesikova — Tue, 04 Feb 2025 08:00:00 +0000

When something’s not looking up to scratch, whether that be walls or a piece of furniture, one of the first ideas we often have to give it a new lease of life is to cover it with a coat of paint – this includes wooden flooring. And while this tactic often does the job, floorboards are a special case that also comes with its own set of unique requirements – so is painting the floor ever a good idea?

In short, yes, it can be a good idea to paint floorboards. But there are several factors you should consider first before diving into this paint idea head first, as our flooring experts advise.

‘Painting floors can be a good idea for homeowners on a budget who are looking to incorporate a brand new look into their homes,’ says Liam Cleverdon, flooring expert at Flooring King. ‘It’s a quick and easy way to give a room a much-needed aesthetic refresh. However, I believe the drawbacks exceed the positives, and for that reason it’s not something I generally recommend.’

(Image credit: Future PLC/Mary Wadsworth)

What are the cons of painting hardwood floors?

If your heart is set on painting your floors, it’s important to be aware of some of the drawbacks of this inexpensive bedroom flooring idea so that you can prepare yourself for them accordingly.

The first question you should ask yourself is – are you sure you want to do this? That’s because once you paint them, there is no going back. It’s pretty much impossible to go to that natural look of the wood once paint has touched the surface.

‘Painting floorboards shouldn’t be viewed as a temporary fix or trend-led decor update, as it’s very difficult to reverse,’ says Alex Heslop, trend expert at Flooring Superstore. ‘You could change a painted floor by re-painting it but it’s almost impossible to go back to the original wood grain after painting. Paint removal is possible, however very time consuming, particularly if the paint is oil based.’

(Image credit: Future PLC/Paul Massey)

The other downside of painted wooden floors is the inevitable wear and tear with chips and scuffs and the necessary regular maintenance that comes with it. ‘Due to paint chipping fairly easily, it can require frequent touch-ups, proving an annoyance long-term,’ Liam at Flooring King warns.

And lastly, painted floors are also a surprising feature that can devaluate your home if you were ever to sell it. ‘It can affect the value of properties, making them less attractive to buyers if natural flooring has been compromised,’ Liam says.

(Image credit: Future PLC/Katie Lee)

What to do when painting your floors

When it actually comes to the task at hand, there are certain things about the way you should paint the floorboards that the experts want you to remember.

Firstly, the room you choose to paint your floorboards in. Ideally, avoid making this your kitchen or bathroom flooring idea as the environment is not ideal for these high-moisture spaces.

‘For people considering painting floors, the bedroom and living room tend to be the most popular options. They are typically the rooms where people express themselves the most through design. However, I would advise against painting floors in both kitchens and bathrooms. This is because the moisture can pose potential issues, leading to discolouration, damage and costly replacement costs,’ Liam at Flooring King says.

(Image credit: Future PLC/Tim Young)

It’s also important to opt for a paint that’s designed for wooden floors and will therefore be as long-lasting and hardwearing as possible, such as the Ronseal Diamond Hard Floor Paint available from Amazon.

‘To anyone with their heart set on painting their floors, I strongly advise them to test the paint out on a hidden area to see how it sets or reacts. It’s also important to leave enough time for the paint to dry, this can take 48 hours - but may take longer - so keep this in mind,’ Liam adds.

(Image credit: Future PLC/Mark O'Flaherty)

If you’re in search of wood flooring ideas and ways to give them an update, flooring pros advise to opt for a stain like the Furniture Clinic Wood Floor Stain available from Amazon that enhances the material’s natural charm and beauty over covering it with paint.

‘It’s possible to update and improve the look of traditional hardwood flooring without reaching for the paint, by simply sanding and re-varnishing every couple of years,’ Alex at Flooring Superstore says.

Or, if you want to save yourself the work, opt for a beautiful rug instead, ‘We’d recommend alternative decor updates including refreshing wall paint and soft furnishings such as rugs and runners,’ Alex adds.

(Image credit: Future PLC/Anna Stathaki)

When it comes to home improvements and easy DIY projects, they’re mostly fun and can be done with a light heart. But there are others that can have a lasting impact on your home and painting your hardwood floors is one of them. So before you pick up that paint brush and cover your floorboards with a lick of paint, make sure this is really what you want to do.

How to fix creaking floorboards under carpet — banish that pesky squeaking without damaging your flooring

Marina Rabin — Mon, 03 Feb 2025 16:00:00 +0000

Creaking floorboards are unfortunately a problem that most people will encounter at least once in their home. While they can be tolerable at first, being followed around by an incessant squeaking noise can become quite disruptive to your living space rather quickly, and become a real inconvenience.

When the creaking happens under a carpeted floor, it can be especially difficult to know what to do without damaging your carpeting. Learning how to fix creaking floorboards under carpet without the help of a professional is therefore one of the best DIY home repair skills you can master, setting you up for a lifetime of peaceful living.

Why do floorboards creak?

There are a few different reasons why floorboards may start to creak over time. While creaking can be disconcerting, and often irritating, it’s nothing out of the ordinary and isn’t normally symptomatic of a larger problem.

‘Squeaks and creaks will occur over time due to wear and tear, where one wooden section rubs against another, or rubs against a loose nail or screw,’ says Paul Bangs, category director of Kitchens, Bathrooms, Flooring & Tiles at Wickes.

Squeaking floors can also have a lot to do with the subfloor – a layer of plywood, particleboard, or composite that sits on top of the floor joists. The creaking could be caused by the subfloor itself, or loosening floorboards between the subfloor and your carpet. ‘Floors begin to creak if they move up and down, which is either caused by an uneven subfloor, or by expansion and contraction, which can happen when there are sharp temperature swings,’ explains Paul Hambidge, managing director at Factory Direct Flooring.

(Image credit: Future PLC / Dan Duchars)

Wooden floorboards are usually nailed or glued down to the subfloor, and can become loose over time. When floorboards loosen, this creates gaps between the floorboards and subfloor, causing the squeak.

There are a number of ways you can fix creaking floorboards, however, the job is a little trickier when it's under carpet, but it is possible to do without having to call a professional in.

What you will need

A screwdriver
2.5 inch screws
Post-it notes or chalk
PVA or Adhesive
Stud finder, available at B&Q
Depending on where the creak is: a repair kit designed to go through carpet, such as Stop Squeak

Step-by-step

1. Assess where the squeak is coming from

Figuring out the source of the creaking floorboard is the first step to fixing the issue – mainly so you don’t end up pulling up carpet unnecessarily.

The easiest way to determine where a squeak is coming from is by walking around and keeping an ear out for where the squeaks get louder. ‘Move around the room methodically and slowly to hone in on where the problems are coming from. You can also look for any obvious signs of loose screws or nails, but the carpet would need to be pulled back for that,’ advises Paul.

Mark any problem areas with post-it notes, or with chalk, to know where to come back to once you start mending.

(Image credit: Future PLC / Colin Poole)

2. Peel back the carpet to assess the damage

Once you’ve found the source of the squeaking floorboards, gently peel back the carpet covering the area. You should do this by lifting the carpet from the gripper rods around the room's perimeter, so you shouldn’t have to cut it.

Even if it's just a small section, this is the best way to assess how to repair the creaking floorboards. ‘Once you’ve located the noisy spots, check the floorboard layout. If nails are protruding, it means they’re not properly secured,’ advises Gareth Davies, design director at Classic Interiors.

If the squeak is coming from the centre of the room, or you can’t peel back the carpet for another reason, there are specialist tools available which are designed to go through carpet instead of having to pull it up. ‘If removing the carpet is difficult, use a stud finder to locate the joists beneath the carpet,’ adds Gareth. In this situation, it's important to use screws which are designed to go through the carpet, like Stop Squeak, available for £36 at B&Q, to cause minimal damage to your carpet.

But, it's worth noting, ‘going through the carpet wouldn't be my recommendation,’ advises Paul. ‘I'd always suggest peeling back the carpet first, then tackling the issue, whether it's caused by floorboards, or the subfloor and floor joists.’

(Image credit: Future PLC / Simon Whitmore)

3. Remove and tighten loose screws

If you have floorboards between your carpet and subfloor, ‘look for loose screws or nails,’ says Paul. ‘Carefully remove them before rescrewing the boards to the subfloor.’

‘Screw the boards directly into the joists,’ recommends Gareth. ‘Use 2.5-inch screws for a secure fit without damaging the wood. Drilling pilot holes first will help prevent splits and ensure a long-lasting fix.’

If you only have a subfloor beneath your carpet, you can use a stud finder to locate the floor joists, and screw the subfloor directly into the joists.

For a longer-lasting, more durable fix, you can also apply PVA or a silicone adhesive between the boards and joists. ‘This will cushion any movement and keep your floors quiet. A careful, practical fix will prevent further noise without unnecessary steps,’ adds Gareth.

4. Check for any remaining squeaks

Walk over the area again to see if any squeaks persist.

(Image credit: Future PLC)

5. Replace and repair the carpet

If you were able to remove the carpet by lifting it from the gripper rods, simply re-fix the carpet to the gripper rods to restore the calm in your home.

In some scenarios, cutting the carpet is unavoidable. If for any reason you needed to do this, ‘use carpet tape to press it back down,’ says Paul. ‘Hide the cut by fluffing up the carpet fibres around it.’

FAQs

Can you fix squeaky floors without removing carpet?

If for any reason you’re unable to remove your carpet, you can purchase kits specially designed to screw through carpet without causing damage. These come with wax-coated screws which won’t snag the carpet fibres, and a tool that guides the screws into the correct spot.

When should I be concerned about creaking floorboards?

If you follow the above steps and the squeaking still persists, it may be time to consult a professional, as this could indicate a structural problem.

If the subfloor is the source of the problem, and securing it to the floor joists doesn’t work, you may also need to call a professional. ‘A carpenter should be able to help you with reinforcing joists and plugging the gaps that cause the squeak,’ explains Paul Hambidge, managing director at Factory Direct Flooring.

Hopefully, if you've followed all these steps your flooring should be intact, but it might be worth cleaning your carpet when you put it back down. Now the squeaking should have stopped and you have a nice clean carpet to enjoy.

7 IKEA BILLY bookcase hacks that are so clever you'd never believe they were once a flatpack

Sara Hesikova — Mon, 03 Feb 2025 09:00:00 +0000

Most of us have some IKEA furniture in our home, loved for its low price point and simple, versatile design. And the BILLY bookcase is one of the Swedish brand’s all time bestsellers that can be found in many a UK home – mine included. That’s why IKEA BILLY bookcase hacks are so popular as they elevate the humble (and somewhat flimsy) bookcase into something your guests would never believe was once flatpack IKEA.

And who doesn’t love a clever IKEA hack? I sure do, as does the rest of the Ideal Home team. And while my IKEA BILLY bookcases are still waiting on the sidelines to be hacked into something bigger and better - likely filling my living room alcove with a built-in bookcase look matching the walls - I found some of the best ways one (or more) of these affordable bookcases can be utilised in an easy DIY project.

(Image credit: Future PLC/Brent Darby)

‘BILLY bookcase hacks are so popular because they offer an affordable way to create high-end looks without the hefty price tag,’ says Sam Sutherland, Flitch interior stylist. ‘The design is simple and versatile, making it a perfect blank canvas for everything from home libraries to media units.’

The one thing to know before diving into these hacks? How to paint IKEA furniture, as most of these will recommend - if not require - doing this to really make the most of the transformation. And for painting your IKEA BILLY bookcase, you will definitely need a primer like Rust-Oleum’s Surface Primer, available from Amazon.

‘I’d recommend using a good primer before painting, as IKEA’s melamine surfaces can be tricky to work with,’ Sam confirms.

1. Build a shelving den

(Image credit: Future PLC/Tim Young)

If you opt for the lower version of the IKEA BILLY bookcase, they lend themselves perfectly to what can only be described as a shelving den, ideal for your little ones to both play in and store their books and toys.

All you need are two low BILLY bookcases and a sheet to suspend from the ceiling over the top into a tent-like shape. And voila, the perfect playroom idea!

2. Make your library of dreams

(Image credit: Caroline McQuistin @carolinemcquistin)

Similarly to the most common IKEA PAX wardrobe hacks, turning BILLY bookcases into a built in-looking library along an entire wall is one of the most popular ways to hack this particular piece of IKEA furniture. And that’s exactly what TikToker Caroline McQuistin (@carolinemcquistin) has done, creating her library of dreams in a fresh blue shade.

‘One of the most effective IKEA BILLY hacks is transforming it into a built-in bookcase with some clever trimming and paint. By adding MDF panels, crown moulding, and a fresh coat of paint to match your walls, you can create a bespoke, high-end look for a fraction of the cost of custom joinery,’ Sam at Flitch says.

3. Create a built-in arched look

(Image credit: Melanie Boyden/Melanie Jade Design)

With arches and curves being one of the biggest home decor trends of the last couple of years, banishing sharp angles, it only makes sense to soften the angular shape of the BILLY bookcase with some arched shaping as Melanie Boyden of Melanie Jade Design has done. But she warns it takes some time and a certain level of skill and experience to pull this off.

‘After getting quotes of £10,000+ to make bespoke units, I decided to give it a go myself with IKEA Billy bookcases. The project took around 4 weeks and although not particularly hard, it was time consuming and required a lot of patience! I have done several IKEA hacks in the past, so I felt confident I could do it. But I wouldn't recommend it to someone who has never picked up a drill or hammer before,’ she explains.

4. Transform it into tableware storage

(Image credit: Yvonne Ellen)

With the IKEA BILLY bookcase becoming increasingly more popular, the BILLY range continues to grow. So these days, you can even purchase one equipped with glass doors. That’s what Yvonne Fisher, founder and chief brand officer at Yvonne Ellen, opted for to hold her ever-growing collection of tableware.

All she needed to do was to jazz it up with some paint - she chose the earthy yet vibrant Farrow & Ball Faded Terracotta - and with some new hardware. You can then customise the interior to fit your needs with rails and hooks to hang your mugs and with some insert shelving and under-shelf baskets like this one from Argos.

5. Use it for customised home office storage

(Image credit: Sherry Ou/Fun Home Building)

If you’re looking for some DIY home office storage ideas, then a low IKEA BILLY bookcase could be the perfect way to go in order to create a seamless look connected to your WFH desk. That’s exactly what Sherry Ou of Fun Home Building has done, combining it with IKEA’s NORDLI dresser as the base of the desk.

And in order to make the whole project look built-in and like it’s one joined piece, she painted the project in a soothing blue paint shade.

6. Flip it and make it into a sideboard

(Image credit: Future PLC/Caroline Mardon)

Turning ideally a narrow BILLY bookcase into a sideboard for your living room is perhaps the hack that transforms the original piece of furniture beyond recognition the most. And yet, it’s quite simple really as TikToker Dalia Aly (@dalia.ea) demonstrates below.

‘Another favourite is converting BILLY into a stylish sideboard or storage bench. Simply add a wooden worktop, new doors, or even rattan panels for a modern touch,’ Sam at Flitch says.

@dalia.ea
♬ original sound - Dalia Aly

7. Wrap it around the sofa

(Image credit: Future PLC/Rachael Smith)

If you have your best sofa positioned against the wall in your living room, you don’t have to stop with your BILLY bookcases on either side of the sofa. By using multiple and variously shaped BILLY bookcases stacked (and secured) together much like a game of Tetris, you can wrap and frame your sofa (or even a door) with a built-in library made out of BILLY bookcases.

That’s exactly what Charlotte and Oliver of One More Project have done in their home office, finishing the project with a sophisticated dark green paint by Benjamin Moore called Yorktowne Green.

@onemoreproject
♬ original sound - onemoreproject

Sam at Flitch concludes with one final piece of advice, ‘Planning is key! Start by measuring your space carefully and sketching out your vision. Investing in quality materials like real wood trim or decorative hardware makes all the difference in achieving a polished result.’

How to put up coving — add architectural interest and hide imperfections on your walls in 5 simple steps

Lauren Bradbury — Sun, 02 Feb 2025 09:00:00 +0000

Whether you want to add architectural elements to your home or just soften the lines between your walls and your ceilings, coving is a decorative finish that can do just that. But it’s only when you nail how to put up coving that you’ll truly appreciate just how transformative this addition can be.

Fitting coving to your walls is an easy-to-medium level DIY idea that’s well worth the time and effort if you have it - no matter whether you want to bring your period living room ideas to life or are on a mission to make your living room ceilings look higher. However, the beauty of coving is that it can be added to any room and can even hide a multitude of sins.

Daryl Shepherd, B&Q’s Head of Buying for Building & Construction, adds, ‘Coving comes in a wide variety of styles and designs and can be a great way of covering up the unsightly settlement cracks than can often appear between the wall end and the ceiling.’ But if you want a seamless finish, you need to know exactly how to put up coving - from prepping the walls to using the right adhesive.

What you’ll need

Utility knife - like this Stanley FatMax Fixed Blade Utility Knife from Amazon
Sugar soap - like this Rustins Sugar Soap from Dunelm
Step ladder - like this Werner 5 Tread High Handrail Step Ladder from Argos
Coving adhesive - like this Everbuild Coving Adhesive and Joint Filler from Amazon
Sealant gun - like this Diall Heavy duty Aluminium & Plastic Sealant Gun from B&Q
Mitre box - like this Draper Clamping Mitre Block from Amazon
Saw - like this Irwin Jack Plus Universal 500mm Fine Panel Saw from B&Q
Pencil
Tape measure
Clean cloth or sponge
Your choice of coving

Step-by-step

1. Choose your coving and measure your walls

(Image credit: Future PLC/Caroline Mardon)

One of the many perks of coving is that it comes in so many shapes and forms, meaning you can tailor it to your home’s interior. If you tend to err on the side of modern decor and straight, clean lines, you could opt for something like this Pro Cove Lite Classic C-Shaped Coving from B&Q.

If you live in a period home or prefer a more traditional look, it’s better to opt for rounded edges and fluting to soften the space and add this classic touch. Something like this Colours Montparnasse Authentic C-shaped Duropolymer Coving from B&Q should do the trick.

There’s no point buying coving if you don’t know how much you need, though. And while you probably won’t be able to buy coving the length of your walls, most coving comes in at around 2m long (of course, always check the specs first).

So, all you need to do is measure the wall's perimeter and work out how many sections of coving you’ll need to surround your room. If in doubt, always buy more than you need.

2. Prepare your walls for the next steps

(Image credit: Future PLC/Tim Young)

When you’ve chosen and bought your coving, you can then start the prepping process. It’s well worth taking this time to prep your walls during this stage, as this will not only result in a seamless finish but will also make the job easier to complete.

Daryl advises, ‘To install your own coving, you’ll first need to prepare the walls. Start by marking a pencil line on the wall and ceiling where the edges of the final fixed coving will sit. It’s worth scoring the wall where the coving will sit to give a better grip for the adhesive.’ You can just use a utility or Stanley knife for this.

Then, just as you need to clean your walls before painting, you also need to clean your walls before fitting coving as rogue dust or dirt can affect how well it sits on your walls. You can use sugar soap and a clean cloth or sponge for this job.

3. Cut the ends of the coving as required

(Image credit: Future PLC/Maxwell Attenborough)

It’s always a good idea to start with the corners of your room when putting up coving, and we’d suggest starting with the corner most noticeable from the room's entrance. This should result in a cleaner finish in an area you’ll notice first and set you up for success as you continue fitting the coving.

However, you may have to cut the ends of the coving to create these corners. This is echoed by Daryl, who says, ‘Next, you’ll need to cut the end of the coving ready to form the joints in the corner. The shape of the room will determine the type of joints you will need to prepare.’

It’s best to use a mitre box and panel saw for this job, but it’s best to grab your pencil and mark out where you need to cut before you get cutting. Once this is done, gold the coving securely in the mitre box and make cuts using a firm movement with a fine-toothed panel saw.

Alternatively, you could buy the corners pre-cut and ready-made if you don’t have a mitre box readily available. This will cost you extra, but coving corners like these Colours Nayak Traditional Fluted Coving from B&Q come in a pack of 6, so you have enough for a whole room (and a couple to spare).

4. Stick the coving to the wall with adhesive

(Image credit: Future PLC/David Giles)

Thankfully, a mitre saw is the only dangerous tool you’ll need to fit coving, as fitting it to the wall requires no drilling, nails, or hammering. Instead, you’ll just need some dedicated coving adhesive and a sealant gun.

Once you’re happy with the fit, apply adhesive to both edges of the coving, you'll want enough that you see the adhesive squeezing out of the coving when it's pushed into the right position.

If you have any gaps or rough edges, you can also squeeze some of this adhesive into them to create a solid base for painting. Then, you need to leave your new coving alone for at least 24 hours to dry before you move on to the next step.

5. Get painting

(Image credit: Future PLC/David Giles)

In the past, coving has typically been left white. But as paint trends chop and change, so have these coving paint trends. So, it’s up to you whether you want to paint your coving white to match your skirting boards or you want to embrace colour drenching and paint it the same colour as your walls.

Emma Bestley, Creative Director and Co-Founder of YesColours, advises, ‘When painting coving, we generally recommend using water-based emulsion for a smooth finish. Alternatively, eggshell paint can be used for a glossier finish as it tends to reflect more light.’

However, she has issued a word of warning to those looking to put up coving, as this step also requires some prep. ‘Before you begin painting, make sure to prepare the surface properly. Use masking tape to protect adjacent areas, and if the coving is unpainted, apply a thin layer of primer and allow it to fully dry first. Start with a paintbrush for the edges then, if preferred, switch to a small roller to cover the middle for a consistent finish.’

FAQs

How far should coving be from the ceiling?

The beauty of coving is that there are no rules. Although traditionally you would install coving underneath the join of the wall and the ceiling, the exact measurement depends on the style of the coving and your own choice.

For example, many people choose a larger drop to make rooms with high ceilings look cosier, but opt for a higher distance when they have low ceilings. It’s also worth checking the coving manufacturer’s instructions, as they often have their own guidelines on how far coving should be from the ceiling.

Can I attach coving with no more nails?

Although it’s best to use a specific coving adhesive to attach coving, you can also use no more nails. You can use it in exactly the same way and it will initially stick to the wall with no problems. However, you may find that it won’t last as long as a specific coving adhesive.

Is installing coving hard?

If you’re a complete DIY novice, installing coving may be hard - especially as you have to use a mitre box, saw, and do a lot of measuring and reaching to ensure it’s accurate. If you have basic DIY skills and know how to use these tools, though, installing coving isn’t as hard as many people think.

Plus, it’s incredibly easy to ensure everything will fit before you stick it down. So, you can try measuring and cutting a few times before it’s too late to come back.

When you’ve finished putting up your coving, you can then decide whether you want to paint your ceiling the same colour as your walls.

But we’ll leave that one to you.

3 reasons why your washing machine is leaking from underneath - and what you can do to fix it, according to experts

Kezia Reynolds — Wed, 29 Jan 2025 13:00:00 +0000

Doing laundry and noticing water leak out the bottom of your washing machine is a problem by anyone’s standards - and experts have revealed the most common causes of this watery conundrum.

As much as we couldn’t live without a washing machine, there are plenty of things that can go wrong with one from weird noises to leaks and stuck doors. While some fixes will require an expert looking at them, some things like how to fix a noisy washing machines can be done yourself. If your washing machine starts leaking from underneath more often than not it will be caused by a minor problem that you can tackle yourself.

However, it can sometimes indicate a more serious problem - which is why you need to identify the root cause and get it fixed.

We'ver rounded up all the reasons that could be causing your washing machine to leak from underneath and how to fix each of them.

(Image credit: Future/Rachael Smith)

1. A loose or worn-out hose

A loose or worn-out hose is the most common cause of washing machines leaking from underneath and is a common home repair you can fix by yourself. Hoses are cheap to pick up (I spotted one for £6.97 at Screwfix) however if you are unsure, it’s always worth contacting a plumber for advice.

To check if your house is loose or needs replacing: ‘have a look at the hose and connections and check for any cracks or looseness – tighten or replace them if needed,’ says Jessica Rhodes, Product & Marketing Manager at ASKO.

(Image credit: Future PLC/Colin Poole)

2. Clogged filter

‘Another highly common issue causing a leak is a clogged drain pump or filter. If the pump or filter is clogged, it could cause water to back up and leak out from the bottom of the appliance. It is advisable to clear your washing machine filter every one to three months depending upon your household usage. You can typically find the filter behind a small panel at the front of your washing machine,’ says Chloe Blanchfield, Product Marketing Manager at Hisense UK.

The filter catches lint, hair, small debris, and other particles from your washing load, removing them from the cycle. However, when you neglect to remove this debris, it’s easy for your machine to become clogged and less efficient.

(Image credit: Future PLC/Jamie Mason)

3. A damaged seal

‘It’s also important to check the door seal for any signs of wear, as a rubber seal can easily become damaged which can cause a leak. Overloading a washing machine or using too much detergent can also result in excess water spilling out, so always make sure to stay within the limits and use the correct amount,’ says Jessica.

As well as checking your seal, it’s also important to clean the rubber seal to prevent a build-up of mould and mildew and maintain the machine’s efficiency. If your seal is damaged, it is possible to change it at home. However this involves taking apart the front panels of your machine, so if you’re not a confident DIY-er, it’s worth consulting a tradesperson.

(Image credit: Future/Paul Raeside)

Why is leaking a problem?

If water is leaking from underneath your machine it could also suggest a more serious issue such as a cracked drum or internal damage, of which you may need a replacement machine or serious repairs.

‘If a leak is not addressed quickly, there can be some serious consequences to the home. Water damage to the floor and surroundings can cause mould or mildew growth if left undetected, potentially causing costly damage. A serious safety risk arises when water leaks within close proximity of electrics, if you spot water leakage, immediately check the washing machine electrical connections and turn them off to avoid any immediate safety risk,’ says Chloe.

‘If the underlying problem is ignored, no matter how inconsequential it may seem, it could get worse and cause serious damage to the home and to the appliance itself! If you spot a leak from your washing machine, act immediately to rectify the problem.’

If you've noticed water leaking from beneath your washing machine, don't hesitate to address the problem - finding and fixing issues early, will save you time and money in the long run.

How long does it take to tile a bathroom? You need to a lot more time than you’d think according to tiling experts

Kezia Reynolds — Fri, 24 Jan 2025 07:00:00 +0000

The average British bathroom can take up to a week to tile if you're tiling yourself according to DY experts.

If you’re looking to update your bathroom on a budget, learning how to tile a bathroom yourself is the cheapest and arguably most satisfying way to do it - after all who doesn’t want to stand back and admire their work?

However, it’s important to factor in exactly how much time it takes to complete a task, and it's easy to underestimate how long it takes to tile a bathroom.

‘How long it takes to tile an average-sized bathroom can depend on several factors, from the tile material, size of tile, size of the room, if you have chosen a complicated pattern and the skill and experience of the tiler!’ explains Grazzie Wilson, Head of Creative at Ca’ Pietra.

(Image credit: Future PLC)

‘The quickest and easiest tiles to lay are smaller rectangular tiles, around 30x60cm, laid in a brick bond pattern. Larger tiles (e.g. 60x120cm), smaller tiles (e.g. 20x20cm, 10x20), natural stone tiles, or any mosaics will take longer; as will any special layouts- especially herringbone!' explains Grazzie Wilson.

‘If your floors or walls are not flat this makes tiling much more difficult and takes longer, so put the time into your preparation to save time on the tiling. For an average UK bathroom (about 6m2 in size for a master bathroom) the tiling and grouting alone can take from two-seven days. This doesn’t include the rip out, replastering, waterproofing, laying movement matting, or fitting bathroom furniture.’

There is no set answer about how long it will take to tile your bathroom. It all depends on your skill as a tiler or how intricate your design is. If you’re tiling for the first time, we’d recommend leaving a week to give yourself enough time to master your bathroom.

Should you hire a professional?

If you don’t have a spare week to lay your bathroom tiles, or you have very high expectations for your bathroom ideas, it could be worth getting a professional to lay your bathroom instead.

(Image credit: Future PLC/Rachael Smith)

‘On average it takes two to three days for a professional to tile a bathroom, whereas it takes three to five days for someone to DIY tile a bathroom, including preparation and drying periods. While DIY tiling your bathroom can save money initially, the risk of errors is high and can end up being just as costly. Plus, if you prefer your bathroom to be back in action in just a couple of days, hiring a professional is your best bet,’ explains a spokesperson for Tapi Carpets & Floors.

Employing a professional can half the amount of time tiling takes, making it an ideal choice if you’re short on time or aren't confident in your DIY skills.

‘Unless you have a good deal of DIY skill yourself, yes- a professional tiler will do a faster, cleaner, and better-quality job,’ says Grazzie.

‘When looking to set aside time to tile a bathroom, allow anywhere between two and seven days, which will be dependent on the size of the room, the layout, and the experience of the tiler.

‘There are no shortcuts or tiling methods that are quicker. If you want long-lasting results, beware of any ‘shortcuts’ when it comes to tiling. If the tiles are not bedded down correctly with the right amount of adhesive, they are prone to cracking over time - so it pays to take a bit extra time to make this work.’

Shop bathroom tiles

Need some inspiration for your bathroom tile ideas? These are our top picks.

Opal Emerald Dark Green Tiles 75x300mm

Green tiles are have a huge trend within bathroom design. It adds a relaxing and luxurious feel to your space.

Faenza Crema Tile

White is a classic choice for bathroom tiles, but why not add some texture to your space with these striking tiles?

Scales Terracotta Matt Mix 30.7x30.7cm

Give your bathroom a Mediterranean feel by opting for warm shades. Browns shades will be huge in 2025 and give your bathroom a relaxing holiday feel.

If you're planning on tiling your bathroom this year, it's important to give yourself enough time to complete tiling - so you can do your ideas justice.

How to upcycle your Christmas baubles – 5 ways to give your dated festive decorations a new look

Sara Hesikova — Mon, 09 Dec 2024 09:00:00 +0000

Our taste evolves and likes and dislikes change, sometimes as often as yearly. The problem is, Christmas happens only once a year but Christmas decorations can last for generations – so what do you do if you’re stuck with baubles you no longer like the look of? You give them a DIY update with our tips on how to upcycle Christmas baubles.

While some might straight away throw out their old Christmas baubles and buy new ones that are to their liking instead, we at Ideal Home love a DIY Christmas decor idea. And we encourage you to embrace this upcycling idea perfect for beginners because it’s not only more sustainable, it’s also easier on the wallet.

‘Changing the look of baubles that you don’t really like anymore is a great sustainable alternative to throwing them away and buying new ones,’ says Rachel Fearnley of Rachel Fearnley Designs. ‘This means that the baubles are re-imagined into something new, they are saved from heading to landfill, and you are recycling them to give them a new narrative.’

And these are our five favourite ways to give Christmas baubles an update, whether it’s because they’re looking a bit tired and faded or because their Christmas colour scheme is not quite in line with our festive decorating vision anymore.

1. Create a marbled effect with nail polish

(Image credit: Kate Ward @kateandherhome)

One of the best budget Christmas decorating ideas that looks expensive at the same time is using nail polish to create a marbled-effect bauble design. Kate Ward, DIY content creator of @kateandherhome on Instagram, is a big fan of this particular technique.

‘I wanted to change the colour scheme of my Christmas decorations, but I didn't want to spend lots of money buying new, so I looked for ways to give my existing baubles a new look. I was inspired to use this technique on my Christmas baubles after seeing it being used on mugs on Pinterest.’

She continues with a step-by-step guide to successfully achieving the look, ‘To recreate the look, you will need a bowl of room temperature water, nail polish in your desired colours, a cocktail stick and some baubles. Slowly pour nail polish onto the surface of the water so it doesn't sink, and then use a cocktail stick to swirl the polish.

Dip your baubles into the water and then leave to dry. It's a really easy way to give your decorations a new look and I like it that much, that I've been doing this for the last few years! I've used it on ceramic and plastic baubles, and the finish lasts very well.’

2. Paint them

(Image credit: Future PLC/Selina Lake)

Your unloved Christmas baubles also present the perfect opportunity to get a little creative with painting or drawing. Just see it as your canvas. Any paint will work if you want to create the entire surface. And once dry, you can grab a paint pen or a marker and draw anything from polka dots to anything more detailed, depending on your skill level.

‘Using a paint pen, very carefully paint the baubles with small dots to create a jewel effect. These could be painted using one main colour or a colourful combination. Again using the paint pen, carefully write the names of your family and friends on the baubles to create a personalised ornament. Alternatively write “Christmas 2024” on the baubles,’ Rachel Fearnley suggests.

3. Put a balloon on top

(Image credit: Clare Hooper @clarehooper)

If a solid-coloured look is what you’re after, then you can choose the shade of your baubles by simply popping them in some party balloons in your preferred colours, whether that’s metallic ones to embrace the Christmas disco trend or pastel coloured ones like these balloons from Amazon. Just take inspiration from crafts, DIY and upcycling content creator Clare Hooper of @clarehooper on Instagram.

‘I spotted this idea on Pinterest and knew it would be perfect! Using balloons to cover old Christmas baubles is a really fun DIY project. It took a bit of practice to get the hang of it – figuring out how much balloon to trim and how to stretch it without ripping it. But once I got the knack, it was fairly easy. Giving old decorations a new lease of life while saving some money! It's a win-win.

'All you have to do is just trim about a centimetre off the top of the balloon with scissors. Then, hold the bauble in your hand, remove the top, and stretch the balloon over it using your fingers. Give it a little wiggle to make sure the whole bauble is covered. Pop the top back on and hang it up,’ Clare explains.

PartyWoo Metallic Silver Balloons, 50 pieces

Metallic Christmas decor is trending this year. And we love the look of these balloons that look almost like liquid silver

XEANCO Pastel Balloons, 50 pieces

Pastels are a slightly unexpected Christmas colour scheme - which is excatly what makes it so good

HILAVO Pink Mixed Balloons Set, 35 pieces

Pink is the top trending colour for Christmas decorations (and Christmas trees) this festive season

4. Wrap some twine around them

(Image credit: Future PLC/Emilie Mendham)

If you like nature-inspired rustic Christmas decorating ideas then wrapping some jute twine like this one from Amazon all over the surface of your Christmas baubles in a spiral motion is the perfect way to bring some Scandi style to your Christmas.

We’ve recreated this look, along with a step-by-step tutorial on the Ideal Home Instagram account – and all you need is a hot glue gun like this one from Argos and some optional pretty ribbon to hang your baubles with.

A post shared by Ideal Home (@idealhomeuk)
A photo posted by on

5. Cover them with fabric

(Image credit: Future PLC)

Personalised festive ornaments are one of the biggest Christmas decor trends of this year. So if you’re feeling crafty this Christmas and in need of an easy DIY project, you can update your Christmas baubles with scraps of fabric covered in any print your heart desires.

Just cover your bauble with glue using a hot glue gun and get patchworking with your chosen pieces of fabric.

Not only that you’ll save yourself some money on Christmas decorations and save some waste from going into landfills, these DIY tips also make for fun activities to get creative with, whether that’s on your own, with family or friends. Enjoy!

How to dispose of paint - 3 easy steps to get rid of leftover paint safely

Katie Sims — Fri, 06 Dec 2024 09:00:00 +0000

Leftover paint can be something of a nuisance. We know we're probably not going to use what's left in the tin, but we don't want the additional clutter in our shed, garage, or supplies cupboard. The good news is that you can learn how to dispose of paint, safely and easily.

It's important to know the proper way of disposing paint, because it can't just be thrown away with household rubbish. While the best paints tend to have a long shelf life - and there are several ways to reuse leftover paint - sometimes you just know you won't use it again, at which point it's time to get rid.

So, if you're happy with your current paint ideas but wondering how to get rid of the leftovers, we've got you covered. We've asked the experts how to dispose of paint safely, and it's actually a really simple process - you'll just need something to harden the paint before you start, such as sawdust, cat litter, soil or sand.

'It's vital to dispose of paint safely and effectively, in order to protect the environment and prevent safety hazards,' says Gary Jarman, Building and Decorating Expert, Building Shop. 'Liquid paint cannot be accepted by recycling/household waste centres, so the main thing you need to do is wait for the paint to dry and harden before it can be accepted.'

Before learning how to dispose of paint properly, you'll need to get your hands on a couple of essentials first.

1. First, harden it

(Image credit: Benjamin Moore)

The first step if you are looking to get rid of old paint is to harden it. If it's tossed in with the household waste when it's still a liquid, it will contaminate other waste (and because of its chemical composition, paint is considered hazardous). So, don't be tempted to skip this step.

'Hardening can happen naturally if you leave it in a colder spot exposed to the elements, but you can speed up the process very effectively by adding sawdust,' says Sophie Smith, Zhoosh Paints. 'Soil, sand and cat litter are other options but sawdust (available on Amazon) is best.'

Mix your sawdust into the paint, and keep adding more until it becomes a crumbly consistency. The sawdust will start absorbing the paint's water, speeding up the hardening process.

Tip: if you can't get your hands on sawdust, soil, sand or cat litter, you can buy specific paint hardeners, like this one for £20.49 from Amazon (it's just a more expensive option).

2. Leave to solidify

'Once you've added your hardener, leave the lid of the can off and wait for the paint to solidify,' decorating expert Gary says.

How long it takes the paint to harden varies on the conditions it's left in (colder temperatures speed up the drying process). It will likely be at least 48 hours, so leave it for a couple of days before checking it.

3. Take it to the tip

Once the paint has hardened, the experts recommend you take it to your local recycling centre. 'While technically you can put hardened paint in with the rest of your household waste, there are different components to a paint tin with handles and labels,' Sophie Smith explains. 'So to be sure you’ll get it broken down and recycled effectively, the recycling centre is what we recommend.'

Most local recycling centres do accept hardened paint, but it's always worth checking before you go. You can find out your local tip's regulations on the Recycle Now website.

Remember, recycling centres will not accept paint that hasn't been hardened, so make sure you don't turn up with liquid in the tins.

Other ways to dispose of paint

(Image credit: Benjamin Moore)

There are a couple of alternative methods you can try for how to dispose of paint. If you only have small amounts of paint leftover, you can brush this on to cardboard and leave it to dry. When it's dry, it can go in with household waste. This method isn't recommended for larger amounts of paint though, as it would be very time-consuming.

It's also worth considering donating the paint. 'This avoids creating waste and helps others in need,' Gary says. 'Donate to the likes of friends, family, neighbours or even artists, charities, community projects, and schools. To do this, make sure the paint's in good condition and make sure to reseal the lid before you give it away.'

Community RePaint collects leftover paint and donates it to families, organisations and charities. This is a sustainable way to get rid of paint you no longer need, and help it go to a good cause. Community RePaint have schemes set up in 75 areas across the country, so make sure you have a look to see if they have services local to you.

FAQs

How do you harden paint for disposal?

To harden paint for disposal, you need to combine it with a gritty substance, such as sawdust, soil, sand or cat litter. These materials absorb the water in the paint and speed up the solidification process.

Mix your chosen substance in the paint, ensuring it is well combined. Then, sprinkle some more on top to make the drying process even quicker. It's best to then leave your paint tin with the lid off in a cold area like a garage or shed. You can leave it outside, but make sure the paint has some form of shelter from the elements.

After 48 hours or so, the paint should have hardened. If not, leave it a while longer and it will dry out in its own time.

Can you take paint to the local tip?

'You can only take paint to the local tip once it's dried and hardened,' says Gary from The Building Shop. 'If it's wet, you cannot take it.'

Once paint is hardened, most local recycling centres will accept it, though it's always worth checking first.

Swapping screens for spanners – raising a new generation of DIY enthusiasts

Sponsored — Thu, 28 Nov 2024 16:29:56 +0000

There are many things younger generations are more confident about than their elders, but practical skills are rarely one of them. Research from waste disposal experts HIPPO found that more than half of Brits under 24 believe that they are losing DIY skills. In response, the brand launched its innovative #DIYLegacy campaign to encourage us all to pass on skills to the young people around us.

In the mere months since this campaign kicked off, there’s already been exciting progress, and influencers partnering with HIPPO are sharing stories about the DIY skills their children have learnt, and the projects they’ve given a go so far.

With the kids who took part aged between 4 and 13, it’s clear to see how building these DIY legacies can help foster a feeling of independence and confidence in tackling projects from a young age. Here’s how some of them got on…

(Image credit: Anita Russell)

DIY and styling enthusiast, Anita Russell, taught her daughter how to use a drill, and now they’re both reaping the benefits. ‘I’ve always included my daughter in our DIY projects – she’s loved learning from a young age and she can now use a drill by herself which is a wonderful achievement! She did a fantastic job helping me build a mini shed to store all our wood during the colder months.'

'Teaching her life-long DIY skills is all about putting her in good stead for the future, as well as learning the importance of repairing things and re-using materials to live more sustainably.’

(Image credit: Stacey Dyer)

Meanwhile, keen renovator Stacey Dyer has been involving her children with the work that goes into planning and prepping a space for decorating. ‘When children are living through ongoing renovations, it’s so important to get them involved so they feel included and can learn along the way,’ she explains.

‘I work with them to plan the décor for rooms, including creating moodboards and selecting items. That way, they can understand the vision along the way and appreciate what we’re actually working towards. It’s especially important to collectively have that end goal in mind when you’re knocking down walls or surrounded by renovation dust!’

(Image credit: Rebecca Lewis)

Then there’s Rebecca Lewis who, in the midst of renovating her home, encouraged her son to learn how to put up his own shelves.

‘Our DIY legacy is all about explaining what we’re doing or getting them to use tools (with supervision!) so they can start building on their own bank of knowledge. It’s so rewarding that my son is now learning the steps to put up his own shelves,’ she says.

‘It proves just how important it is to demonstrate the value of doing things ourselves; building things and getting hands on.’

(Image credit: HIPPO)

Whether you’re letting the young ones in your life get stuck into a DIY project, or you’re starting by filling them in on the steps you’re taking, it’s all a part of creating a DIY legacy that will be passed down for many generations to come.

Whatever project you’re working on, make sure you have a HIPPOBAG to hand to keep things clear and clean so your whole life isn’t taken over with the mess, and the working debris is out of your hair. You’ll also be helping to pass on more good habits to your children, too, as the convenient flat-packed HIPPOBAGs for home and garden waste are collected by HIPPO when full, with 95% of their contents going on to be recycled.

For more #DIYLegacy tips and inspiration, follow HIPPO on Instagram.

How to make a mantle bow - tie up your festive mantlepiece styling with this on-trend idea

Andrea Childs — Wed, 27 Nov 2024 09:00:00 +0000

Big bows are one of the top trends for festive styling this year and learning how to make a mantle bow is an easy way to add them to your Christmas decor.

Ribbons and bows are every this year from Christmas tree ribbon ideas to bows tied around wreaths, front doors and even cocktail glasses. You can buy large fabric bows at places like John Lewis & Partners, M&S and Anthropologie, but if you have time for some Christmas crafting, why not make your own? Interiors stylist Marie Nichols, who created the bows here, explains how to cut and sew your own.

'Bows have been having their moment in the catwalk and this Christmas they’re having their interiors moment,' Marie says.

'Oversized fabric bows bring a softness to schemes while creating a striking focal point. Whether tied to doors, adorning a wreath, around candlesticks or either side of the mantle, bows add that extra special festive flourish.'

This article first appeared in Country Homes & Interiors. Subscribe and save here.

You will need

Fabric
Scissors
Sewing machine or needles and thread
Florist's wire or elastic band
Ribbons

1. Make the bow

(Image credit: Future PLC/Rachel Whiting)

For the bow, cut a piece of fabric 100cm x 56cm.

Fold in half lengthwise right side to right side, stitch along the raw edge, leaving a 1cm seam allowance (leaving the short ends open).

Turn the fabric through to the right side and fold so that the seam line is in the centre.

Bring the two short ends together, overlapping by 1cm and stitch in place to form one big loop.

Ensuring the join is on the reverse, scrunch together the centre and hold in place with florist wire or an elastic band.

2. Make the tails

(Image credit: Future PLC/Rachel Whiting)

For the tails, cut a piece of fabric 130cm x 22cm. Fold in half lengthwise right side to right side, and cut a 45-degree angle at either end.

Leaving a 1cm seam allowance, stitch from the left hand point to one-third of the way along the top open seam. Leave a gap of approx 30cm then start stitching along the top open seam and down to the right-hand point.

Using the central gap, turn this through to the right side. Press and make sure the points are sharp.

Fold your tail in half (so that you have two tails) and adjust to your desired lengths. Place the bow piece on top.

3. Bring your bow together

(Image credit: Future PLC/Rachel Whiting)

Cut a third and final piece of fabric approx 20cm x 18cm. Fold in half lengthwise, right sides together.

Stitch along the raw edge, leaving a 1cm seam allowance (leaving the short ends open). Turn this through to the right side and fold so that the seamline is in the centre.

Wrap round the centre of the bow and the centre fold of the tails. Handstitch in place on the reverse.

How to make your own Christmas garland – the easiest way to create a festive showstopper to adorn your mantel with

Sara Hesikova — Mon, 25 Nov 2024 09:00:00 +0000

Christmas garlands are the perfect thing to decorate anything from a mantelpiece and stair bannister to a doorway or even the dinner table for that special festive touch. And while you can, of course, buy your garland ready-made, there is also an easy way to make a homemade Christmas garland yourself.

Making your own Christmas garland idea at home is both an easy budget Christmas decorating idea and an opportunity to get creative and adorn your masterpiece with anything you like.

‘Christmas garlands are wonderfully versatile and make lovely additions to festive displays on mantelpieces and staircases,’ says Maryam Ghani of luxury flower delivery service, Haute Florist. ‘The beauty of do-it-yourself Christmas garlands is that you can use whatever you like to decorate them, depending on what you have at home and the Christmas colour scheme for the rest of your displays.’

But before you get right down to it, first, you’ll need to gather together all your crafting essentials to make this as easy of an DIY project as possible.

(Image credit: Future PLC)

What you’ll need

Fresh or artificial foliage according to preference – if using fresh, David Denyer, expert florist at Eflorist, recommends going ‘classic with evergreens like pine, cedar, or fir – sturdy and fragrant staples – or mix it up with lighter greenery, such as grapevine or eucalyptus, for a more modern touch.’
Florist wire like this one at Amazon
Twine like this jute twine from Amazon which will act as the base of your garland
Pruning shears or secateurs like these from Amazon
Decorations of your choice
String lights like these star micro fairy lights from Lights4Fun

1. Prepare your materials

(Image credit: Lights4Fun/Oliver Perrott)

Start by gathering and laying out everything you’ll be using. Then, cut your pieces of foliage to desired lengths with your secateurs.

‘Start by prepping your materials; it’s best to have everything you plan to use within an arm’s reach. Laying your materials out flat can help to visualise your idea before you begin to weave. Trim the branches into manageable pieces. You can also leave some significantly longer for a more rustic or dramatic look,’ David at Eflorist says.

Maryam at Haute Florist adds, ‘Gather together your foliage and trim according to the size of display you are making. If you are creating a large garland, consider cutting pieces around 15cm long and using a heavy duty string.’

At this point, also cut the ‘backbone’ jute twine to the desired length which will be how long you want your garland to be.

2. Attach greenery to the base

(Image credit: Lights4Fun/Oliver Perrott)

Then once all the pieces are ready to go, start attaching the pieces of foliage to the base jute string with florist wire.

‘Carefully attach your greenery to your twine with the wire, making sure one side is relatively flat so it will rest well against a surface such as a mantelpiece. Keep going, wrapping the wire around the foliage and making sure it looks full and there are no bare patches. Tie it off neatly at the end,’ Maryam explains.

David adds, ‘Use floral wire to wrap and secure each branch, working your way along the twine. It may help to think of it like a plait – by overlapping the branches with the wire, you’re simultaneously providing support and linking them together.’

3. Decorate your garland

(Image credit: Lights4Fun/Oliver Perrott)

Similarly to making your own space-saving Christmas tree, the most fun part of creating a homemade garland is that you can decorate how and with whatever you please.

‘The beauty of decorating a Christmas garland yourself lies in the opportunity to personalise it exactly the way you want it,’ says Lucy Mather, interiors expert at Arighi Bianchi. ‘Traditional decorations include shiny or sparkly tree ornaments like miniature baubles, bells, and whimsical festive figures that will add both colour and texture and artificial snow for a wintery touch. It all really comes down to personal preference and your choice of Christmas theme. Try adding natural elements - think berries, dried orange slices, strings of cranberries, and natural or painted pinecones - for a touch of rustic charm, strands of beads or pearls for an elegant vibe, felt or paper stars for a homemade, crafty feel.’

Sam Sutherland, Flitch interior stylist, continues, recommending incorporating your best Christmas lights in the garland decor, ‘You could weave in fairy lights for a soft glow or add sprigs of eucalyptus or holly for a natural vibe. Velvet bows or ribbons in rich colours are great for adding texture and a touch of luxury.’

(Image credit: Future PLC/Adrian Briscoe)

FAQs

What to use as a base for a garland?

A simple jute string or twine will work perfectly as the backbone of this DIY Christmas decor idea to attach pieces of greenery to with some florist wire. These three materials are the winning combo of any Christmas garland design.

‘You need to start with a base such as florist wire and twine or string cut to the length of your desired display,’ says Maryam Ghani at Haute Florist. ‘The best base for a homemade Christmas garland is always a mixture of evergreen foliage such as conifer and blue spruce, with some florist wire and twine to keep everything in place. You can make Christmas garlands very simply with some greenery found in your local florist, craft store or even foraged from your garden.’

(Image credit: Future PLC)

How do you keep a garland fresh longer?

If you’re making your garland with fresh foliage rather than artificial greenery then you need to keep in mind that it will keep looking its best for about two to three weeks. But there are some things you can do to slow down the wilting process as much as possible.

‘Fresh garlands last about two to four weeks indoors and four to six weeks if placed outdoors,’ says David Denyer at Eflorist. ‘Cedar and pine garlands tend to last longer due to their durability and natural oils.’

Maryam at Haute Florist continues, ‘Heat will speed up wilting so keep fresh garlands away from sources of heat such as radiators, fireplaces and sunny windowsills. If you want your garland to look as fresh as possible, make it the week before Christmas.’

Alternatively, David has a few more suggestions, ‘There are several ways you can help preserve your garland. Misting it with water daily will ensure the garland retains moisture; a floral preservative spray can also help. . If you’re planning on placing your garland somewhere warmer, I’d suggest going the faux-greenery-and-floral route.’

Happy Christmas garland making! We can’t wait to see what festive beauty you’ll create.

How to remove wallpaper - expert-approved steps to prevent damage and ensure a smooth finish

Lauren Bradbury — Sun, 24 Nov 2024 09:00:00 +0000

In a world where everything is getting more and more expensive, being able to decorate yourself can save you some serious pennies. And if you’re looking to give your walls some TLC, knowing how to remove wallpaper yourself can be a handy skill to have.

Although there are so many amazing wallpaper ideas out there, it’s nice to be able to mix things up every now and then - especially as wallpaper trends chop and change all the time. And while you could wallpaper over wallpaper if you really don’t want to stretch your DIY fingers, experts don’t recommend this.

As Sarah McCann, print and product expert at Voyage Maison, explains, ‘If you're considering giving your home a wallpaper update, the first step you must tackle is to remove the existing wallpaper. While it may be tempting to apply the new wallpaper directly on top, it's important to take off the current layers first. This will help prevent frustrating creases and air bubbles from forming during the application process.’

What you'll need

KZXXZH Wallpaper Scrapers

It's always good to stock up on a few scrapers if you want to remove wallpaper. Different sizes will also help you go into the nooks and crannies of your room, too.

Wagner Steamforce Wallpaper Stripper

Using a wallpaper stripper is generally considered the best and most efficient way to remove wallpaper. This one comes with 70 minutes continuous use time, so it'll tackle rooms of all sizes.

Harris Essentials Sponge

A good-quality sponge will aid every stage of the wallpaper removal process, so it's best to stock up if you don't have any at home.

Step-by-step

1. Prepare the area

(Image credit: Future/Polly Eltes)

Just as you need to prepare yourself and your home for painting a room, you also need to do the same when removing wallpaper. After all, it can be a messy (and dangerous) business if you don’t take precautions.

For starters, you need to prepare the area. Adam Clark at My Local Toolbox suggests, ‘Protect all floors and furniture with either drop cloths or old sheets. Painter tape is a great way to protect electrical outlets, skirting boards, and/or panelling.’

To go one step further, Tim Warren, a DIY expert from Adkwik, advises, ‘Turn off the electricity in the room where you will be working, as water or steam may come into contact with plug sockets or switches.’

To make things as easy as possible and to ensure you won’t have to get mould out of fabric later down the line, you should also aim to move furniture out of the room - especially if you plan on using a steamer to remove wallpaper.

If using chemical wallpaper remover, you should wear gloves and eye protection to avoid any injury or irritation. And if you’re on the shorter side, you might want to keep a ladder (and someone to hold the ladder) close by.

2. Perforate the wallpaper

(Image credit: Future/Mary Wadsworth)

After preparing yourself and the area, you may feel inclined to get cracking as soon as possible. But there’s another step to take before you can really start stripping wallpaper - especially if you want to protect your walls and make the process as easy as possible.

Adam explains, ‘Using the correct tool, puncture small holes in the wallpaper.’ So, you can use a scoring tool like this GoodHome Wallpaper Scoring Tool from B&Q for this step.

You must be careful here, though, as you could damage your wall. ‘Only use enough pressure to enable the teeth of the scorer to cut into the surface of the wallpaper. You should not use a knife or scissors to score wallpaper, as it will be difficult to score evenly, and you risk damaging the wall underneath,’ advises Tim.

3. If you want, use a removal solution

If you have a fair amount of time on your hands and want something that will work efficiently every time, buying or making a removal solution may be your best bet.

Chemical wallpaper strippers like this Solvite Ready to Use Wallpaper Stripper from Amazon are faff-free and ready to be sprayed liberally onto your walls. However, you should always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the best results. You also need to give it time to work its magic, and most experts suggest leaving it at least 20 minutes after spraying.

(Image credit: Future PLC)

Tim then advises, ‘Using a stripping knife, make short, sharp movements to remove the paper from the wall once it is loose enough, ensuring that you are not damaging the wall as you go. Try to keep the knife as flat as possible, and do not let the edge dig into the surface. If any areas of the wall begin to dry out before you reach them, apply more of the chemical stripper to the wall according to the instructions.’

You don’t have to use a chemical stripper if you prefer to stick to natural products in your household. If you clean with vinegar, you can also use it to remove wallpaper.

Adam suggests, ‘When using vinegar, mix with equal parts water and then spray the mixture liberally onto the wallpaper. Although you cannot scrimp on the mixture, focusing on small areas at a time is best, and then allow to soak for 10-15 minutes.’

You should then be able to use the scraper to remove the wallpaper from the wall easily. But as with the chemical stripper, you may need to reapply your solution every so often.

4. Alternatively, start steaming

(Image credit: Future/Caroline Mardon)

Alternatively, you could use a wallpaper steamer to remove wallpaper from your wall. This is a much quicker method, and while you do have the added cost of buying (or renting) the steamer itself, owning one can come in handy if you plan on using it time and time again.

Using steam to remove wallpaper is also extremely easy. Tim says, ‘Hold the steam plate at the bottom of a strip of wallpaper for roughly ten seconds so that the paper is damp. The steam should have penetrated enough to loosen the adhesive used on the wallpaper, but you may need to leave the steam plate against the wall for a little longer.’

He adds, ‘However, do not hold the steam plate against the wall for longer than a few seconds at a time to avoid damaging the plaster. If you begin to hear a popping noise, this suggests that the plaster is cracking and damaging the wall.’

For ease, it’s a good idea to work from the bottom to the top, as the steam will rise and ultimately make removing the top sections easier. However, you should always open the windows and keep doors open when using a steamer, as you don’t want to create any damp or condensation problems in your home.

5. Clean the walls

(Image credit: Future/Dan Duchars)

Once you’ve done the above, you can focus on cleaning your wallpaper-free walls.

Adam suggests a simple solution of warm, soapy water to do this. And you can apply this using a sponge or cloth. However, if you have any leftover sugar soap - like this Rustins Sugar Soap from Dunelm - in your garage, you could also use this to clean your walls after removing the wallpaper.

This concoction should break down any adhesive residue on your walls and leave you with a squeaky-clean finish. Then, you should leave your walls to fully dry before doing anything else to them.

FAQs

Does washing up liquid remove wallpaper?

Yes, it does! If you don’t want to use a chemical stripper or steamer or make a solution from vinegar, you can make your own washing-up liquid wallpaper remover.

Sarah McCann from Voyage Maison explains, ‘Start by filling a bucket with hot water and adding a few drops of dishwashing liquid. Using a sponge, apply the soapy water directly to the wallpaper and let it soak for twenty minutes before trying to peel the wallpaper away.’

She adds, ‘This method is effective and has minimal odour, but keep in mind that you may need to repeat the process a few times to completely remove the wallpaper, as it is a gentler approach.’

So, if you’re short on time and want to remove wallpaper as soon as possible, washing-up liquid might not be the option for you.

What not to do when removing wallpaper

There are many things you shouldn’t do when removing wallpaper. These include:

Scoring the wallpaper too deeply before removing.
Leaving the solution on for too long.
Steaming for too long.
Not removing all of the paper.
Not removing the adhesive residue.

So, now you know how to remove wallpaper you should be able to tick this off your to-do list in no time!