With nights drawing in and temperatures dropping, I am all for trying an energy-saving hack to keep my bills under control. But does closing curtains early actually save energy at home?

This is a crucial question to answer, especially considering the fact that energy prices rose by 4% in October and are predicted to rise by anywhere between 16 and 25% (depending on the predictions you look at) come January.

Martin Lewis has long advised people to close their curtains as soon as the sun goes down but if you're still waiting to be convinced of the impact it can have on your energy usage, I've started doing it again in my home over the last week, and this is what happened.

Does closing your curtains early save energy?

Yes, closing your curtains early can save energy. It can help to block draughts and reduce heat loss through your home's glazing. This in turn leaves your home feeling warmer, meaning you're less likely to pop your central heating on for an extra hour or two in the evening or use an electric heater or oil-filled radiator for longer than necessary.

Better still, this passive energy-saving method doesn't cost a penny!

'Closing your curtains at dusk is a simple way to help keep your home warm as temperatures drop,' says Stuart Middleton, So Energy's Consumer Energy Expert. 'Windows can be a source of heat loss, so drawing your curtains creates an additional layer of insulation that helps slow the rate at which heat escapes. Thick, well-fitting or thermally lined curtains can be particularly effective.

'The amount of energy you could save will depend on your windows, the type of curtains you have and how well insulated your home is, so it’s difficult to put an exact figure on the savings from this habit alone. However, it’s a simple, low-cost change that can help keep your home comfortable during the colder months without relying as heavily on your heating.'

And I can confirm this hack definitely works. I've long adopted this curtain-closing strategy, and I can definitely feel that my house feels warmer for longer in the evening, without needing to resort to whacking the heating on for another hour.

I measured the temperature in front of my closed curtains and behind them, and found a 2°C difference once the sun had gone down, especially in the rooms where I have thermal curtains. Had my curtains been open, the whole room would have been considerably cooler.

What time should you close your curtains to save energy?

For this hack to work most effectively, you need to close your curtains just before it gets dark. Today, for example, the sun is due to set at 4.52pm where I live, so I set myself a reminder to close my curtains at about 4.30pm. This may get earlier as we get deeper in to winter, so it's worth checking the weather app on your phone for the sunset time.

By closing curtains at this point, you get maximum benefit from any solar gain during the daylight hours, and keep the heat in once the sun goes down and temperatures plummet.

If you tend to be home at this time of day, then setting a reminder on your phone is a pretty simple way to remember to nip round and close the curtains at the optimum time. But what if you aren't?

Fortunately, there is a way to automate your curtain closing. Using a device like the SwitchBot Curtain 3 (£99.99) will allow you to set up schedules to open and close your curtains at the exact time you want, whether you are home or not.

Ideal Home's Digital Editor Becky has been using hers for the last couple of months: 'I added the SwitchBot Curtain 3 to my living room curtains a few months ago and used the schedule function to help control the temperature in my home. In summer, I scheduled them to open when it was cooler and close during the hottest parts of the day. Now for autumn and winter, I've adjusted the schedule so that they close as soon as it gets dark at night to keep the cold out and ensure I always come home to a cosy space.'

Does the type of window treatment make a difference?

In my experience, the kind of window treatment you have makes a big difference to how warm your room remains when the curtains have been closed.

In my home I have a mix of thermal curtains and blinds, fabric or wooden blinds, and standard curtains and I have found there is a marked difference in how well they each keep the heat in.

For me, the best of the bunch by a long shot is my thermal curtains and blinds, followed by my wooden blinds, with my non-thermal curtains and fabric blinds coming in last place. Even though we're not in the depths of winter yet, there was a 2°C difference in front and behind my thermal curtains and blinds, just under a degree difference in front of and behind my wooden blinds, and half a degree in front of and behind my standard curtains.

Fortunately in the rooms I spend the most time, I have these Berlin blackout and thermal curtains from Dunelm (from £15), but I will definitely be upgrading the standard curtains in my guest room before Christmas!

As a whole, my house is pretty chilly – a combination of it being built more than 100 years ago, original windows and doors and, I'm a little ashamed to admit, a lack of substantial insulation and draught proofing measures.

That said, not all the rooms feel as artic as one another – while the newer sections, such as the kitchen extension and my son's bedroom, feel pretty toasty most of the time, other spaces can become almost uninhabitable when outside temperatures drop – the entrance hallway being one of them.

This really bugs me – after all, this is the space that should set the tone for the rest of the house, somewhere to welcome in guests and to look forward to returning to. A few weeks ago I finally got round to draught-proofing the front door but I am keen to put further measures in place before the cold really begins to creep in. I asked the experts for their advice on the matter – here, I share their top tips.

1. Detect and deal with each and every draught

Having lived in this house for around 13 years now, it was only a couple of weeks ago that we finally got around to upping our draught-proofing game by addressing the very ill-fitting original front door. We added a letterbox cover, a brush seal to the bottom of the door, a pretty brass escutcheon and some weatherstripping.

It is too early to tell how much of a difference this will make but, according to Martyn Fowler, founder of Elite Renewables, we have made a strong start and he advises other homeowners to begin in the same place we did. 'The front door is always the first place I check for draughts. Run your hand around the frame, underneath the door and around the letterbox. You can normally feel where the cold air is getting in. Worn weatherstripping or an unsealed letterbox are simple fixes – just don’t block any ventilation that is there intentionally.'

Georges Cornah, owner of Warm4Less, has a couple of additional tips when it comes to draught-proofing the space. 'Laying a draught excluder at the bottom of the door will catch whatever draughts are left and you can buy these very cheaply. It’s also worth checking understairs cupboards – they can be a source of draughts that get forgotten about.'

Shop draught-proofing essentials

2. Switch the cold stone floor for something else

While the hallway flooring we chose is fairly practical, it is utterly freezing underfoot. The slate tiles are easy to clean and have proved really durable, and using dark grout was a smart move as it never seems to show signs of wear, unlike the pale grout we have used other rooms. All of that said, if I were choosing new hallway flooring, I think I'd definitely go for something more comfortable and snug.

'Your flooring definitely changes how warm the hallway feels underfoot,' picks up Martyn Fowler. 'People always notice their feet getting cold first. Tile and stone flooring can feel very cold in winter. If you’ve already got a hard floor, I wouldn’t necessarily replace it just for this. A good runner can make the space feel warmer without a major flooring job.'

Patrick Garner, a gas safe engineer at Heatable, suggests that in some cases swapping stone for something soft can be a wise move, although for maximum benefit, he also recommends upgrading floor insulation – something on my to-do list for when we remodel the hall next year. 'Adding carpet and a good underlay can really help, particularly when compared to tile or bare timber flooring, but if you’re really losing heat, adding insulation beneath a floor can make a bigger difference in older homes.'

3. Address the poorly-sized and badly-positioned radiators

The only source of heat in our hallway is the column radiator, which sits behind the row of hooks that holds a mountain of coats and jackets that someone really needs to sort through. Lack of proper hallway storage aside, what this means is that absolutely no heat manages to get from the radiator into the hallway – although the coats at the bottom of the mound are nice and toasty when you put them on.

Add to that the fact that the radiator stopped heating up at the end of last winter (we think due to a thermostat that needs replacing) and it is clear that we need to address the hallway heating pretty soon. I had been thinking about using an electric heater to supplement things but, having spoken to Martyn Fowler, I'm not sure that this is the best idea. 'If there’s already a radiator in the hallway I’d start there rather than adding another heater. Make sure it’s heating properly and that it isn’t boxed in or hidden behind furniture.

'Electric heaters wouldn’t be my first choice for an entrance hallway,' continues Martyn. 'You’re using relatively expensive electricity to heat a space that loses warmth every time somebody opens the front door. I’d spend that money on stopping the draughts first. If the hallway still needs more heat after that, then you can look at the heating properly.'

4. Consider adding a porch or lobby

For some time now we have been looking a some more substantial front porch ideas for our house to replace the open design we currently have. While the existing porch is original to the house, the idea of an enclosed style structure, perhaps oak-framed, really appeals and would add another layer of protection between inside and out too.

'A porch can work really well because you’re basically creating an airlock between the house and outside,' picks up Martyn Fowler. 'When you open the outer door, you’re not immediately letting cold outside air into the main hallway.'

That said, this is a far greater undertaking (and cost) than some of the cheaper upgrades to keep the house warm in winter that I've been looking into – something Martyn is keen to point out to others. 'I wouldn’t build a porch purely because the hallway feels draughty. Check the existing front door, seals and insulation first. There’s usually a much simpler problem that can be fixed for a fraction of the cost.'

5. Install thermal curtains and blinds

And, finally, this is yet another job I have been meaning to get around to doing but haven't just yet – installing thermal curtains inside the front door, and fitting a lined blind to the hallway window.

When we bought the house it had been changed very little since it was built and there was a thick, heavy velvet curtain at the front door which was deemed 'creepy' by the children and was quickly taken down – after which it quickly became apparent how big a role it was playing in keeping out draughts.

While I had always thought of this as a rather old fashioned idea, having had a look at the thermal window treatment ideas on offer I am now quite excited about how it could add a really cosy vibe to the hallway decor as a whole.

Shop thermal curtains and blinds

FAQs

Is it worth using an electric heater in a cold hallway?

It seems that the answer to this very much depends on the hallway in question, as well as the type of electric heaters you are considering.

On the one hand, in hallways like mine, with no porch, little insulation and where the staircase leads directly off to the second storey, there is often little benefit to traditional fan heaters, as Patrick Garner explains. 'I wouldn’t recommend using a portable electric heater, as it will cost you more in the long term.'

However, Georges Cornah says that infrared heaters can be a wise investment. 'Hallways are a tricky part of the house to heat because you pass through rather than sit in them, and every time you open the front door, the warmth rushes out.

'Infrared heaters are brilliant for hallways. They heat objects instead of a big volume of air that gets lost through draughts like traditional convection heating,' explains Georges. 'Infrared heat warms the walls, the floors, furniture, and people. It works exactly like the sun – even though the air might be cold, the sun still feels warm on your face. Another benefit is that you can install infrared heaters on the ceiling to maximise wall space in what can often be a narrow part of your home.'

If you are really keen to delay turning on your heating this winter yet don't want to be left shivering, there are plenty of ways of keeping a house warm without central heating to try out before flicking the on switch.

Whenever the temperature starts to dip, my focus always goes to how I can ensure my energy bills remain as low as possible.

Sometimes that means digging out an electric heater or a heated blanket to warm myself up while I'm working from home, rather than popping my central heating on longer than necessary, and heating parts of my home that I don't tend to use during the day.

As part of my mission to save energy while I work from home, I tried the Stoov Big Hug3, a heated seat pad, on my home office chair (and beyond) to see whether it was my solution to staying warm throughout the day, without reaching for my thermostat.

In a nutshell

Stoov's Big Hug3 is a cordless heated chair cover that uses infrared heating technology to warm the body rather than the air.

Ideal for those working from home, the Big Hug3 is designed to cover the chair seat and back, offering three different heat levels to keep you toasty. Available in two different sizes and colourways (a dark grey and a beige), as well as different fabrics, including a very cosy woolly texture.

As well as the variety of options for the Big Hug3 itself, you can choose different battery options depending on how much you plan to use your chair cover, from Base which offers the lowest run time and is best if you only plan on using your BigHug3 for short periods. Flex offers the middle run time, while Pro offers the longest and was the one I chose, which offers between 2-5 hours run time.

It's part of a range of cordless infrared heating products, which also includes cushions, blankets and electric hot water bottles.

Specification

• Sizes available: 45x115cm | 47x135cm
• RRP: from £119.99
• Type: Chair pad
• Wattage: n/a
• Temperature settings: 3
• Auto shut-off timer: Yes
• Dual controls: No
• Machine washable: Yes at 30°C

Unboxing, set up and first impressions

The Stoov Big Hug arrived in a surprisingly compact cardboard box, with the brand's mission clearly stated 'We warm people, not the planet.' Its largely card packaging, with the exception of the bag the cover itself comes in which is made from 100% recycled plastic.

In the box you get the cover, a battery pack, a charging cable and plug, as well as a Getting Started Guide.

Unrolling the Big Hug, I instantly liked the soft material and luxe beige and burgundy colourway. There's also a cable to securely attach it to a chair, which I thought was a very nice touch, although in practicality, this didn't actually work that well on my style office chair, which has arms. Fortunately, it's not essential in order to use it.

A huge bonus for me is that it's cordless – I already have multiple cables streaming across the corner of my desk, and I was very thankful not to have yet another. Not being constrained by proximity to a plug socket gives a whole sense of freedom about when and where I can use it.

When it comes to other features, I especially liked that the charging cable and battery pack match the burgundy accent on the Big Hug3 – all thoughtful design elements which I feel warrant the £100+ price tag.

There's really not much involved in terms of set up. All I needed to do was connect the battery and slot it into the handy pocket, which took less than a minute, and then plug the charger into the smart label and leave it for a couple of hours to charge.

What's it like to use?

The Stoov Big Hug3 is really simple to operate via the smart label, the burgundy tag that is located on the edge of the cover, about half way down the back. There's a small, discreet switch that you need to flick first (there's a little green sticker to look out for that will tell you it's on). Then you just long press the Stoov logo, and you'll see a light come up. That shows it's on the lowest heat setting. Press it again, for the two lights and the middle heat setting, and again for the third light and highest heat setting.

After laying it on my office chair, I popped it on the highest power setting, which should heat up to a very toasty 58°C. The warmth is nice, not as hot as I was expecting, but it's very pleasant and it effectively warms the body, without creating a stuffy environment that I find can happen if I use an electric heater for too long.

I was expecting the whole pad to warm up, but rather than that, there are two distinct heat zones, one on the back and one on the seat, with a narrow heat zone connecting the two. Initially, I was a bit disappointed by this, but as I was using it, it didn't actually feel that problematic. I could feel warmth exactly where I wanted it and where my body had the most contact with the Big Hug3. However, while that works for a heated chair pad, it means this wouldn't be my first choice to double up as a heated blanket. The dimensions and thicker material don't drape as well over the body, and are far better to sit on rather than be covered with.

On the highest heat setting I got just under two hours heat time, but even after the heat turned off, the woolly texture was so cosy, I felt really quick snuggly still. On the lower heat setting, I got closer to five hours before it needed recharging.

It also held its shape well, with no wrinkles forming, even by the end of a long work day.

While there were a lot of positives, I did have one main gripe with the user experience of the Big Hug3. Despite the back of the BigHug3 being almost 10cm longer than my chair back, whenever I leaned forward on my chair, the weight of the battery pack would cause it to slump down, which was rather frustrating after the third or fourth time. In hindsight, I should have opted for the BigHug XL, which is longer than the Big Hug, and would be better suited to my higher back (67cm) chair. However, when I used the Big Hug on a lower backed chair, this definitely wasn't a problem, I could drape enough of the non-heated part over the back so that the weight of the battery actually helped keep it in place.

I also tried it as a heat pad while sitting on the sofa. While the weight of the battery did cause it to slump down, I found that if I popped a pillow behind my back, and tucked the battery pack behind it, I could keep it in place, still benefit from the heat zones, and it was remarkably comfortable.

When it comes to charging, Stoov advises to charge it via the smart label, which I did, but this does mean that you need a decent amount of counter space to sit the rolled up Big Hug as it charges. I would position it with the smart label facing outwards so I could easily tell the charging progress (the heat level lights flash until you have three solid lights that mean it is fully charged).

Whenever it's not in use, I love how neatly it rolls up – it takes up a fraction of the space of one of my sherpa fleece blankets I tend to use in winter.

Running costs

While you will need to charge it regularly, the Stoov Big Hug3 is cordless so it doesn't run directly off electricity, and depending on the battery you choose and the heat setting, you can get up to five hours of use on a single charge.

Maintenance and cleaning

Apart from regular charging, there's not much the Stoov Big Hug3 needs in terms of maintenance. Should you spill anything on the cover, the good news is it can be washed, but you need to make sure you remove the heating element from the inside first.

I found this quite easy to do. There is a large zip on the back where the base and the back meet, and there is another mat on the inside, which houses the heating element. I found it easiest to slip the base out of the woolly cover first, then detach the smart label (which is attached to the outer cover with Velcro), and finally remove the battery connector through a whole in the fabric at the base of the fabric pocket before sliding the rest of the heating element mat out.

Once the two are completely separated, you can wash the outer cover in the washing machine, according to the care instructions.

I found it just as easy to slip it back together again.

Who should buy the Stoov BigHug3?

If you work from home, have a lower back desk chair (say that comes up to just below your shoulder blades) and don't want to be limited by proximity to a plug socket, then the Stoov Big Hug3 may be exactly what you're looking for. Not only is it comfortable and effective, but it holds it shape well and it both looks and feels cosy and luxurious.

If, like me, you have a higher back office chair, or want to use it on the sofa, I'd definitely recommend the XL version instead, to avoid having it slump down whenever you move.

However, if you want something more blanket like to keep you warm on chilly evenings, I think a heated throw, like the Dreamland Luxury Heated Throw, would be a better option. You will need to be near a plug-socket, but that may be more doable as you chill on the sofa.

Looking to heat a room itself? That's where an electric heater will be most useful for a quick burst of heat when you need it. The Dreo Atom 316 is the best we've tried and it's small enough to fit neatly on a desk. For more prolonged heating, one of the best oil-filled radiators will be more economical to run.

It's that time of year again when the cold insidiously creeps back into my house. For me, it isn't the leaves turning from green to orange that signals the onset of autumn – it is the way in which my fingers and nose begin to get decidedly chilly as I sit and work from home, not to mention the fact that the garden inexplicably feels warmer than the inside of the house.

Every year there is a silent battle between me and my husband involving the secret turning on and off of the heating, as we try to balance saving energy at home at staying warm. But this year I have to admit I'll be on his side given the rise in heating costs once again.

With this in mind, I have decided that I am going to do everything I can to delay turning on the central heating this year – I asked the experts for their tips on how I can keep myself warmer for longer.

1. Draught-proofing every room in the house

My house is seriously lacking in the draught-proofing department and while I have made a few upgrades over the years to make my old house feel warmer, there is still a way to go.

According to Stephen Hankinson, heating and energy efficiency expert at Electric Radiators Direct, this is one of the first things I need to address. 'A cheap and effective way to save on energy bills is by controlling draughts, because they let warm air escape through gaps, including the through the bottom of doors, windows, letterboxes, unused chimneys and even floorboard cracks. 

'Draught excluders for windows and doors are an inexpensive yet effective way to keep the heat from escaping your house,' continues Stephen. 'Other options such as chimney balloons and pipework insulation can also stop cold gusts and heat loss for little in the way of costs.  Do keep some fresh air coming into the house though, to prevent mould forming inside.'

Becky Lane, CEO of Furbnow, has some additional suggestions if you are unsure where your home is leaking heat. 'The first step is always to find and block the worst drafts. Borrow or rent a thermal imaging camera if you can, or simply run your hand around doors, windows and floorboards to feel where warm air is escaping.' This thermal imaging camera from Amazon is one of the lower cost buys.

Shop draught-proofing essentials

2. Upgrading my window treatments

Some of the windows in my house are the originals and still have single glazing – meaning they are a major source of heat loss. I have been aware for a while now that my choice of curtains and blinds could really help here.

'UK data shows that standard window glass accounts for up to 18% of heat loss in a typical British home, but by using blinds, you reduce this loss by up to a third,' reveals Helen O’Connor, 247 Blinds' trends and product manager. 'People forget one of the most crucial reasons we get blinds, curtains or shutters. Of course, they make your windows look good, they provide privacy and shade for your home, but they are also our primary insulation barrier. When autumn hits, people instinctively bump up the heating, but actually, if used cleverly, your blinds can help you stay comfortable and save money, way before you commit to your annual heating switch-on.'

I was keen to know, what kind of approach should I take, in Helen's opinion, towards my window treatments? 'First, opt for a snug, recess-fit blind. Measure your window accurately to help the thermal blind fit as tightly as possible within your window frame. Minimising the edge gaps will mean that your blinds can do all the work and it prevents warm air from slipping behind the shade.

'You should also consider window stacking,' adds Helen. 'Combining blinds and curtains gives you more options with your windows and makes an excellent thermal barrier. Thermal blinds are the ideal base, and this can be amplified further by adding a second layer. For this, I’d style a heavy, textured curtain to enhance the thermal effect.'

3. Topping up my loft insulation

My loft really has become something I try not to think about. Not only is it full to the brim with all kinds of stuff I haven't got around to sorting through, but I am also painfully aware that the loft insulation we have in place up there is not really doing anything to help with the energy bills around here come winter.

Becky Lane explains the difference this simple task could make. 'If you can afford it, the quickest wins are things like topping up loft insulation or insulating suspended floors. A minimum of 270mm of insulation can retain heat and save you as much as £70 a year.'

Make sure you research how much loft insulation you need as it could be just as problematic to have too much as it is to have too little.

Stephen Hankinson also points out that topping up insulation throughout the home can help you get the most out of your central heating when you do finally switch it on. 'The effectiveness of your heating system can depend on the type of house you live in – newer homes with better insulation usually retain heat more efficiently, while older houses might need more frequent heating adjustments to stay comfortable.'

4. Getting into the habit of closing internal doors

It is not so much me as it is my two teenagers who are the main energy wasters around here – lights left on, unnecessarily long, hot showers, lots of hairdryer usage and the odd inability to close any doors behind them.

My entrance hallway is probably the coldest part of the house thanks to its uninsulated slate floor and poorly draught-proofed front door. With the door leading from this space into the living room left open, the cool breeze whistles on through to the whole of the rest of the house.

According to Stephen Hankinson, even once we turn the heating on we should get into the habit of closing doors. 'Leaving doors open is wasting money on energy bills. It will take longer for key rooms to get to the temperature required and your heating will need to be on for longer periods of time.  It may sound simple but if you keep the internal doors in the house open, the heat from radiators will flow out. Prioritise the rooms you want warm, but don’t try and heat the full house by keeping every door open – your bank account won’t thank you.'

5. Heating myself rather than the room

Another simple, cheap and super effective way to delay turning on your central heating, but one that is all too often overlooked – heating yourself rather than your surroundings.

Stephen Hankinson has some tips for me here. 'I'm not just suggesting that you simply put on a jumper – though that certainly helps! Instead of immediately turning up the thermostat when you feel cold, consider some cheaper alternatives. A hot water bottle is ideal for cosy evenings and costs around 6p to fill by boiling the kettle. Or, for colder nights or a more high-tech option, a heated blanket is great. Running one for an hour at full power only costs about 8p.'

Georges Cornah, owner of Warm4Less, also points out the benefits of heating the room you in are rather than the whole house. 'You might only need to heat one or two rooms at a time. That might be the kitchen in the morning, your home office during the day, and the living room in the evening. Running the full central heating system to heat only one or two people in a room is quite inefficient.'

6. Looking at the alternatives to central heating

While on the topic of heating rooms as opposed to the entire house, one thing I did last year was to invest in a little electric fan heater that I popped next to my desk. This worked brilliantly to keep me warm, but it it's also worth noting that on receiving my electricity bill, its use was all to evident – the message? Check out the best electric heaters before making a purchase. I also tried a Probreeze oil-filled radiator which was a great success with lower running costs.

'When it comes to electric heaters, the plug-in types are usually more expensive to run than central heating, and with electricity costing 3-4 times more than gas (the current Ofgem price cap puts electricity at 26.32p per kWh whereas gas is capped at 7.97p), the costs can soon add up if one of these is run for a few hours,' points out Ant Langston, bathroom and heating expert at HeatandPlumb.com. 'The heat will also disappear fairly quickly when they are turned off.'

Georges Cornah is keen to extoll the benefits of infrared heaters, which can be one of the cheapest electric heaters to run. 'Instead of warming air like most convection heating (central heating included) they warm objects directly. That includes, walls, floors, furniture, furnishings, and people so you feel the benefit almost straight away. You don’t have to wait for the air to get warm before you feel warm. Another benefit is that you install them on your ceiling to save wall space. Or you can get mirror or picture heaters so they blend in with your décor – you wouldn’t even know they were heaters.'

Shop central heating alternatives

7. Being smarter about how I use my heating

And, finally, I am aware that there will come a point when turning on the central heating becomes inevitable. However, I really need to know the most efficient way to heat a house as, due to a combination of radiators that are too small, or are located behind doors or furniture, even when we do switch it on, it doesn't always make the difference we'd hope.

Georges Cornah has a tip that I definitely plan on using. 'If you have a radiator fitted to an external wall, try mounting a reflective panel behind it. This will reflect the heat back into the room instead of escaping outwards. It’s a cheap, one-off fix that’s worth doing before it starts to get cold.'

Stephen Hankinson also advised me to take a look at my central heating schedule ahead of winter. 'If you work from home on specific days, set your heating to turn on automatically in your office during that time. If you're out all week but want a warm start to your mornings, program it to heat up just before you wake and switch off when you leave. Also, if you're away for a night or a few days, adjust your schedule to avoid wasting energy heating an empty home.'

FAQs

When should you turn your heating on for autumn?

If you are now at the point where you are wondering when is the best time to turn on your central heating, the experts also want to share their advice on this.

'There’s not fixed date. Some say you should turn the heating on when the daily average temperature falls below 15°C (59°F). Others say you should set your thermostat at 18°C,' says Georges Cornah. 'But we’re all different and some of use feel the cold more than others. If you start to feel cold more often than you feel warm, turn the central heating on.'

'There isn’t a one-size-fits-all answer to when you should turn on your heating, as it varies from person to person,' agrees Stephen Hankinson. 'However, the NHS suggests that once temperatures fall below 15°C, it’s a good idea to start heating your home. Ideally, aim to keep your living spaces at a minimum of 18°C (65°F), although many people prefer their living rooms to be a bit warmer.'

Now is the ideal time to carry out a few boiler checks – there are certain signs that your boiler is about to stop working and being aware of them right now will save you lots of heartache once the weather takes a turn for the colder.

As someone who writes about renovating and home energy on a daily basis, I have a wish list as long as my arm of energy efficient and bill-reducing upgrades I want to make to my home. But given my available budget, many of these upgrades are going to be on the wish list for a while.

So imagine my excitement when I realised plug-in solar panels, an affordable alternative to rooftop panels, were now legal in the UK. Available to buy at places like Amazon, Argos and Octopus from around the £460 mark, these panels are designed to be installed on a DIY basis, and simply plugged into a household socket.

While they can't generate as much solar power as traditional solar panels, the Government states that plug-in solar panels can help reduce energy bills by around £110 per year, with panels providing up to 20% of average home electricity use. That sounded like a good start on my wish list to me!

Despite covering various aspects of plug-in solar panels as part of my role here at Ideal Home, including how you assess their suitability, I was convinced that my home would be an ideal candidate. My house is late 1970s and has a sunny garden, outdoor plug sockets. Result.

However, it's always advisable to get a qualified electrician to check your electrics and make sure they are compatible with plug-in solar panels. While I was waiting for my local electrician to come back to me, I did some more research and found a quick check that I could do myself.

Electrical Safety First had released some guidance on plug-in solar panels, in which it advised: 'Given unresolved concerns about the potential impact of plug-in solar panels on certain RCDs, we recommend households have at least a Type A bidirectional RCD protecting circuits intended for use with plug-in solar panels.

'Until these concerns are addressed, homes with Type AC RCDs should not use plug-in solar systems without first upgrading to a minimum Type A bidirectional RCD on those circuits.'

And I'll be honest, as I'm not an electrician, some of that terminology went right over my head. But the key part that stood out for me was 'bidirectional'. Plug-in solar panels send electricity into your sockets, so that said to me that if my set up was not bidirectional, then that would be a problem.

So I went to my circuit board to see if there was anything obvious on there that would suggest it was a bidirectional set up (by, you know, saying 'this is a bidirectional set up'). Sadly, there was no such luck. However, I did spot that on my circuit board, the RCD (Residual Current Device) switch and the smaller MCBs (Miniature Circuit Breakers) all had a brand name and/or codes on them. After snapping a photo of them while I waited for the electrician, I thought I'd give them a Google and see if they were bidirectional-current friendly.

And my optimism quickly faded. There in black and white was the word 'unidirectional'. And the advice to resolve the issue? Upgrade the circuit board, at a cost of around £900-1,200. All of a sudden, my budget-friendly plans were considerably less friendly.

Newer properties may have bidirectional circuit boards already, and if your Google checks suggest that's the case, I would still advise you to get an electrician to confirm.

Now, I don't share this to put anyone off getting plug-in solar panels, quite the opposite, in fact. I am really passionate about energy saving measures being more accessible to more people, especially those who rent, live in flats or are on a tight budget.

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Instead I share this to encourage anyone considering this kind of tech to be more to be aware of just how necessary the electrical checks are before you commit to buying the panels. Plugging solar panels into a unidirectional circuit can cause damage and pose a potential fire hazard, and if you haven't followed the advice on getting your wiring checked by a qualified electrician, then you run the risk of voiding your home insurance policy.

Since the Government announced plug-in solar panels were legal to buy and use in August this year, generating solar power at home is more accessible than ever before. However, this doesn’t mean that you can go and position your plug-in solar panels wherever you fancy - in fact, experts are warning against this one place in particular.

Now you can buy plug-in solar panels to harness solar energy without relying on traditional roof panels. They’re less expensive than rooftop panels and better suited to rentals and flats.

This all sounds great, right? And those of us looking to generate solar power may be eyeing up our shed roofs as a prime spot for plug-in solar. But it’s not, and positioning your plug-in solar panel here could even be dangerous.

Can you put a plug-in solar panel on a shed?

In the same way you shouldn’t put a plug-in solar panel on a fence, you also shouldn't position one on a roof, as they are both made of wood.

‘Homeowners may want to put a plug-in solar panel on their shed roof because of the angle the solar panel would lie. It’s best practice to have a tilt of around 30 to 40 degrees to ensure the sunlight is being captured properly, and a shed roof may provide that. However, homeowners are encouraged to consider wall-mounted solar panels or another surface, such as a balcony, to house their solar panels,’ says Alvaro Iturmendi, Uswitch solar energy expert.

‘Plug-in solar panels shouldn’t be installed on anything wooden, including gates, sheds, or shed roofs, due to the potential increased fire risk. This is due to components potentially overheating and causing a fire to start, with timber being a very combustible material.’

As you are dealing with electricals, it’s important to ensure your electricals are not in constant contact with flammable materials, like wood, as excess heat generated can act as a fire risk. However, if your shed is not made from wood, it could be used to house your plug-in solar panel, but it is worth checking with a professional first - especially if you have older wiring or need an outdoor socket installed.

‘Before installing anything, check the direction of the shed roof and how much shade it receives from nearby trees and buildings. You should also inspect the shed itself, ensuring the structure is in good condition, and the roof is strong enough to carry the additional weight,’ says Garden shed expert Sam Jenkinson, from garden building retailer Tiger.

‘You’ll also need a suitable mains socket to safely plug the solar panel into. The cable run should be short and safe, without extension leads stretching across the garden.

‘Once installed, each system must be registered with your local Distribution Network Operator. It’s also important to check whether you need permission from your landlord, freeholder or your local council before installing.’

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While plug-in solar offer ample opportunity to save energy and money on your bills. However, safety should always be your number one priority.

Deciding whether a plug-in solar panel is the right investment for your home will understandably depend on various factors, but a key consideration will be how much energy your panels can actually generate.

When it comes to plug-in solar panels, it's worth understanding how they differ from traditional rooftop solar panels. They are significantly more affordable and easier to install, but as a result, can generate much less energy.

So before you buy a plug-in solar panel, I've spoken to the experts to find out exactly how much power these devices can make, and the appliances it can power, as well as those it can't to help you decide if it's the right choice for your home.

How much power can plug-in solar panels generate?

So what kind of output can you expect from a plug-in solar panel? 'A typical plug-in solar panel has a rated output of between 100 and 400 watts, but real-world generation is always lower than the rated figure,’ explains John Collett, Director, Quantum Renewables.

‘In the UK, a 400-watt panel will generate somewhere between 250 and 320 watt-hours on a clear summer day. In winter or overcast conditions, that drops to 50 to 100 watt-hours. The actual figure depends on panel orientation, shading, the angle of installation and the efficiency of the inverter converting the electricity for household use.'

But in real life, what can you actually do with that output?

What appliances can plug-in solar panels power and for how long?

'A plug-in solar kit isn’t going to take you off-grid but it can make a difference to your bills,’ says Hemal Morjaria, Chief Commercial Officer at City Plumbing. ‘The best way to think about it is that it can reduce the amount of electricity your home needs to draw from the grid, rather than directly powering individual appliances.

'Their output changes throughout the day depending on sunlight, shade, the direction of the panel and the time of year. Plug-in solar kits do not store energy, so any electricity they produce must be used immediately, or it will flow back to the grid.'

But if it helps you to understand their output in terms of appliances, then your plug-in solar panels could power:

1. An LED TV for around 4-5 hours
2. A laptop multiple times
3. An energy efficient fridge for around 3 hours
4. A phone charger all day
5. Your Wi-Fi router
6. A games console, like an Xbox S

'A 400-watt panel generating 300 watt-hours on a good day could run an LED television for around four to five hours, charge a laptop three or four times, power an energy-efficient fridge for approximately three hours or run a phone charger essentially all day,' says John.

'It is not enough to make a meaningful dent in a household's total consumption, but used strategically to offset specific appliances during daylight hours it provides a genuine, measurable reduction in energy drawn from the grid.'

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Which appliances can't plug-in solar panels power?

You're more heavy hitting heat-generating appliances, or those you tend to use when the sun has gone down, won't be powered by your solar panels.

• Tumble dryers
• Washing machines
• Electric showers
• EV chargers
• Ovens

While plug-in panels are most beneficial for those appliances always running in the background, they won't generate enough power for more energy-hungry appliances, as Brian Davenport, solar lighting expert and Co-Founder of The Solar Centre, which will soon be launching its own plug-in solar panels, explains: ‘It typically won’t be enough to run appliances like kettles, washing machines on longer cycles and electric heaters at the same time as other appliances.'

FAQs

It's all well and good if you want to start generating your own energy at home, but what if your neighbour objects to your plans for putting a plug-in solar panel on your fence?

Now that plug-in solar panels are available to buy in the UK, at home solar power generation is more accessible than ever before, but in order to get the most from these panels, you need to position them well to maximise the daylight they receive.

But what if you chosen spot sparks objection from your neighbour? I asked the experts about whether your neighbour has grounds to complain and what you should do about it.

Can my neighbour object to a plug-in solar panel on a fence?

There are certain circumstances where your neighbour can legitimately object to you attaching your plug-in solar panels to a fence, including where they pose a fire risk, negatively impact your neighbour or flout planning rules.

'There are two main considerations to this question: first, public and planning law and secondly, private nuisance,' explains Paula Moses, Legal Director in the Commercial Dispute Resolution team at Blacks Solicitors LLP. 'Where planning permission is required, such as in certain circumstances involving panels on the front of a property, neighbours may be notified as part of the planning process and given the opportunity to raise objections. Ultimately, however, the decision on whether the installation can proceed rests only with your local authority.

'If your neighbour is disputing your solar panel installation, or you are considering taking action over a neighbour’s panels, simply finding them unsightly would not usually be enough to establish a legal claim.'

1. Fire safety

Your neighbour could object on the grounds of your chosen plug-in solar panel positioning or installation posing a fire hazard, and you'd be wise to heed their objection and choose an alternative position for your panels.

The London Fire Brigade has issued advice on how to use plug-in solar panels safely, including: 'Keep any combustible materials away from your solar panels, batteries, inverters or electrical connections. Sparks, flames and heat from electrical faults can ignite nearby materials and allow fire to spread rapidly.'

Neighbours could also object on the grounds of you buying non-compliant panels, installing the panels incorrectly, or misusing them, which could also lead to a safety issue. Should the worst happen, you could also find that your house insurance is voided if you have used or installed your panels in the wrong way.

To avoid this, make sure you install your plug-in solar panels correctly, following the manufacturer's instructions to the letter. Use only as intended, and if you need an outdoor plug adding, or your electrics checked, make sure you use a qualified electrician.

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2. Planning rules

As planning rules have recently been updated, if your installation falls foul of the rules, your neighbour can object. And you might actually be glad they did, as it would give you time to reposition the panel(s) before you find yourself on the receiving end of an enforcement notice from the local council.

Under Part 14 of the The Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (England) Order 2015, which covers the 'installation or alteration etc of solar equipment on domestic premises' new provisions have been added since plug-in solar panels because legal in the UK.

The changes say that the installation of plug-in solar panels 'where any part of the plug-in solar would be installed on a wooden wall, balcony or enclosure or on any part of the exterior of a dwellinghouse where that part is clad in timber' is not classed as permitted development. That means you would need to seek planning permission from your local authority, which can be a time-consuming and expensive task, with no guarantee of approval.

If you do plan on going down the route of obtaining planning permission, you should check who owns the fence, as if it's your neighbour's, your plans could be a moot point.

3. Nuisance issues

You're neighbour could have a legitimate reason to object if your installation will negatively impact them in their home, or if it encroaches on a boundary.

'To amount to a “nuisance” in the legal sense, the panels would need to interfere with your ability to use and enjoy your property,' says Paula. 'For example, if the solar panels reflected sunlight directly into a room and this significantly affected your ability to use it during the day, this could potentially amount to a nuisance. Equally, if a neighbour objects to your panels, it is important to understand that their objection alone does not necessarily mean the installation is actionable.'

Having open communication with your neighbour about your plans and preparing to compromise if necessary is key to avoiding any disputes.

'Be considerate when choosing a location for plug-in panels and factor in how options could impact neighbours,' says Brian Davenport, solar lighting expert and Co-Founder of The Solar Centre.'Even though it isn’t a legal requirement, it could be worth talking to a neighbour about where you want to place it to avoid conflict.'

Fences aren't ideal anyway

Beyond avoiding a potential fire risk or issues with the local planning authority, your neighbours objects to you putting a plug-in solar panel on a fence could also mean you get more out of your panels.

'Fences are generally not suitable for plug-in solar panels for two reasons,’ explains John Collett, Director at Quantum Renewables. ‘First, most garden fences are not structurally designed to bear the additional load and wind forces that a panel creates, particularly over time. Second, a fence is rarely oriented optimally for solar generation.

'Ground mounting in a clear, open garden space is often better than a constrained wall or fence position, provided the panel cannot be easily damaged or stolen.'

If you are set on the idea of position on the fence, then it might be worth considering an alternative like these Jaksun Solar Fence Panel from Jacksons Fencing.

Can you install plug-in solar panels on a shed roof instead?

Whether you can install plug-in solar panels on a shed roof is a bit of a point of contention. Sheds are not specifically mentioned in the updated planning rules, unlike fences and gates, but could come under the umbrella of 'enclosures' that are mentioned in the new planning rules.

‘While sheds can seem like a good location for plug-in panels, particularly if the roof gets plenty of direct sunlight, homeowners need to check the small print first,’ explains Sam Jenkinson, from garden building retailer Tiger. ‘The new rules include a specific condition for plug-in solar: it cannot be installed on a wooden wall, balcony or enclosure, or on a timber-clad part of the exterior of the dwellinghouse.

‘As the vast majority of UK garden sheds are timber-built, this could rule out a straightforward installation for many households, even where the roof and sunlight would otherwise be perfect.'

To ensure your installation is compliant, it's worthwhile checking with your local authority before you buy to avoid any disappointment or unintentional rule breaking.

Where's the best place to position a plug-in solar panel?

The ideal place to position your plug-in solar panel will depend on where gets the most sun, where the shade is, and how you plan on mounting it.

'For best performance, you’re looking for an unshaded position with good sun exposure,' says Kian Milroy, renewables electrical engineer at Heatable. 'In the UK, south facing panels usually give the best annual generation but south-east and south-west are still very decent.'

John Collett agrees, saying: 'The best position is south-facing at an angle of 30 to 40 degrees with no shading from trees, buildings or other roof features at any point during the day.'

But if you don't have a south facing garden or balcony, all is not lost. 'East or west-facing positions generate around 20 per cent less output but are still viable, explains John. 'North-facing is the worst orientation and generally not worth the effort in the UK as the panel will rarely receive direct sunlight.'

According to Kian, you decision on the right placement should equally consider proximity to electrical connection, weather exposure and the mounting if you want to maximise the benefits.

Now that they are legal in the UK, where can you buy plug-in solar panels, how much can you expect to pay and when will they arrive? I've found all the places you can order them right now and when you can expect them to be delivered, as well as highlighting the places you may be able to buy them very soon.

Plug-in solar panels have been big news over the last few months. While they are widely used in other parts of Europe, especially in flats where a rooftop array of panels would not be possible, they weren't legally available in the UK. But now legislation has been changed and that means this technology is available to UK households for the first time.

As well as being considerably more affordable than traditional rooftop solar panels, which will make solar power generation a realistic prospect for many more households, these panels are designed to be incredibly easy to fit, without the need for a engineer to fit them for you. (Although depending on the age of your home, plug-in solar panels could prove dangerous so it make me worth consulting with a qualified electrician to make sure your electrics are compatible with this kind of tech).

Below I've listed the retailers that are currently selling plug-in solar panels, as well as the ones that should be offering them soon. It's best to buy from a reputable retailer rather than through a third-party marketplace so that you can ensure the model you buy is compliant with UK regulations. You can also check that it's listed on the Energy Networks Association (ENA) Type Test Register, which lists compliant power generation and equipment approved for connection to the UK's public electricity network.

Argos

Soon after the legislation updates around plug-in solar panels came into effect at the end of August, Argos was the first retailer I spotted to sell them online.

Right now, it has six different UKSOL plug-in solar panel kits, ranging from £599 to £999 in price. The most affordable kit Argos has right now is the UKSOL 515w Pro Compact Plug In Solar Panel With Hybrid Mount Bundle, which comes with a 515W panel, an 800W smart microinverter (which allows you to monitor the panel's performance through an app on your phone), an adjustable mounting frame and the connections you need to get started.

'We’re really pleased to now offer plug-in solar panels for Argos customers,' says Graham Biggart, Managing Director for Argos. 'By making this technology more accessible, we’re putting more power in the hands of our customers and helping them explore practical ways to manage energy use at home.'

Amazon

Is there anything you can't get on Amazon? The mega retailer is offering two compliant plug-in solar panels options from Modular Solar.

The most affordable is a 340W plug-in solar panel at £465, with a 475W version available for £650.

The panels come fully assembled and just need to be plugged into a suitable outdoor socket. Amazon also flags that these items come with specialised customer support, which will be a relief for those getting to grips with this new tech.

Even if you are a Prime member, however, you won't be able to get next day delivery with these panels. At the time of writing, the dispatch time was four to five days from the point of purchase.

Octopus Energy

Octopus is also offering one or two panel plug-in solar kits starting from £450 for a single panel kit, which includes a 460W panel, microinverter, 5m cable and three-pin plug. The panels can be mounted on a wall or at ground level, are designed to capture sunlight from both sides, and any power generation can e tracked in the Octopus app.

The system is designed for simple DIY installation, meaning customers can easily set it up themselves in just an hour and even take it with them if they decide to move.

Rebecca Dibb-Simkin, Chief Product and Marketing Officer at Octopus, says: 'Plug-in solar democratises cheaper energy, making sure everyone can shrink their bill while helping build a greener grid.'

The energy provider has also announced that it will soon launch a plug-in battery to help households store any unused solar energy they generate.

Very

Very is also selling five UKSOL plug-in solar panel kits, which is very similar to the offering from Argos. The bundles range from the most affordable 515W kit (£599) up to an 890W two-panel ground mounted set up that, at the time of writing, was reduced from £1199 to £999.

Estimated delivery times depends on the bundle you choose, with dates ranging from mid-September to mid-November 2026.

Screwfix

Screwfix also has plug-in solar panels available to buy from PowerXpress. The UK-regulation compliant package contains two 460W panels, an adjustable mounting bracket that can attach to walls, ground or balcony, and an 800W micro-inverter, and is available for £669, with delivery in around five days.

I have spotted that the same kit bought directly from PowerXpress for £599, but with £90 delivery charges added on top, this is a more expensive way to buy.

City Plumbing

City Plumbing has a range of plug-in solar panel kits available, including those from UKSOL.

Prices range from £432 for the Jinko 940W Hoymiles HiFlow Plug In Solar Kit, up to £951.60 for the UKSOL Pro Duo Plug In 890W Solar Kit Ground Mount.

Stock levels will depend on where you live, and delivery times for in-stock kits are around 20 days.

Retailers we expect to sell plug-in solar panels soon

As plug-in solar panels are new to the UK, it can take a little while for them to filter through to the shelves of the retailers. However, when the government first announced in March 2026 that this technology could be available 'within months', it mentioned a few retailers that it had been consulting with on bringing this new tech to the market.

These include:

• B&Q
• British Gas
• Currys
• Lidl
• Sainsbury's
• Wickes

Before you buy a plug-in solar panel...

While a huge draw of plug-in solar panels is that they can be installed on a DIY basis, it is crucial that you follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter. This may mean that you need to get your existing electrical set up checked by a qualified electrician.

'From 27 August, compliant plug-in solar products will be able to connect through a standard UK mains socket under the Government’s new Interim Product Specification,' explains Hemal Morjaria, Chief Commercial Officer at City Plumbing. 'This is an exciting step forward in making solar technology accessible to more households, particularly for people who may not have been able to consider conventional rooftop systems.

'However, ‘plug-in’ doesn’t mean there are no checks or considerations for homeowners. The new specification includes important requirements around electrical safety, fire safety, where and how panels can be installed, and registration with the local network operator.

'For example, homeowners will need to make sure their electrical installation is suitable and has the appropriate modern protection in place, while there are also restrictions around installing panels on certain types of cladding and timber balconies. Anyone who is unsure about their electrics or the suitability of their proposed installation location should seek professional advice before getting started.'

The benefits of solar power are now available to more people than ever before. Thanks to a legislation change, plug-in solar panels are now legal in the UK, and once on sale, are significantly more affordable than traditional rooftop solar panels.

While there are lots of differences between rooftop solar panels and plug-in versions, the installation is arguably one of the biggest. Plug-in solar panels are designed to be plugged into an electrical socket on a DIY basis, with no professional input required. But questions have been raised as to how safe that is, when not every home's electrical system is the same.

So how do you know if plug-in solar panels will be safe to use in your home? Well, I asked the experts to find out.

Are plug-in solar panels dangerous?

Plug-in solar panels themselves aren't dangerous, but there is concern that connecting a plug-in solar panel to an old or faulty socket could be.

'Plug-in solar panels, sometimes called balcony solar or Shuko solar systems, connect directly into a standard household socket,' explains John Collett, Director of Quantum Renewables. 'The primary risk arises in homes with older or faulty wiring. If the household electrical installation is not in good condition, adding any additional load including a solar panel can create a risk of overheating at plug sockets or junction points.'

'Plug-in solar panels can be safe when used correctly, but they aren’t quite the same as plugging in a standard household appliance,’ adds George Penny, Solar Panel Expert and Director at The Solar Co. ‘They introduce a new source of electricity into the home, so existing weaknesses in the wiring could create an electrical or fire risk.

'Homes with ageing wiring, worn components, previous DIY alterations, inadequate earthing or a lack of modern protective devices may require electrical work before plug-in solar can be used safely.'

But it's not just your electrical system that could prove problematic; there are other ways that plug-in solar could pose a risk to your home and safety, including improper installation. George Penny explains: 'Incorrect installation or use could also make a plug-in solar system dangerous. A typical rigid solar panel weighs around 20 to 25kg, so an 800W system containing two panels could add approximately 40 to 50kg before any mounting equipment is included.

'That weight could damage an older or weakened fence or shed roof, particularly when combined with strong winds. That’s why it’s essential to check for rot, cracks or sagging and make sure the structure and fixings can safely support both the panels’ weight and wind loading.'

Using unsuitable connectors could also pose a risk, especially if they are not designed for outdoor use.

'Sockets, cables and connectors should also be suitable for outdoor use and protected from water, dust and physical damage,' adds George. 'Never use a standard extension lead, trap a cable through a window or door, or daisy-chain multiple panels. Adding equipment that the system or household circuit isn’t designed to handle could cause components to overheat.'

It's also important to check you have the necessary permissions in place before you attempt an installation. 'Renters should also get their landlord’s permission before drilling into or attaching panels to fences, balconies, walls or sheds,' concludes George.

How to use plug-in solar panels safely

'Anyone considering a plug-in solar system should have their consumer unit and wiring checked by a qualified electrician first, particularly in properties built before the 1990s,' suggests John Collett.

You should also make sure you are only buying panels that meet the required safety standards. Those sold in this country through reputable retailers will meet those standards, but beware if you are buying online and if they look like they may be delivered from overseas. 'Only purchase systems that are certified to UK and EU safety standards,' adds John. 'Check for the CE mark and confirm the system has been tested to EN 62109 standards for inverters.'

In further buying advice, Electrical Safety First says you should only buy from reputable high street retailers and their websites, rather than through third party retailers on online marketplaces, that currently have no legal responsibility for the safety of the products they sell.

You should also make sure that you follow any installation and set-up instructions exactly. 'My advice to anyone picking one up at their local Lidl: keep expectations realistic, follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter, and don't be tempted to daisy-chain panels or run them through extension leads,' advises George.

With energy prices set to rise yet again in October, and solar panels becoming more readily available than ever before, it's no wonder more and more people are investing whether this kind of technology is right for their home.

For many the price of solar panels could be prohibitive, but with plug-in solar panels now legal in the UK, generating solar power could become a reasonable prospect for more and more homes.

But given the changeable weather we get here in the UK, how do the different weather types affect how well solar panels perform? I asked the pros to find out.

How does the sun affect solar panels?

As solar panels convert energy from the sun into power for your home (albeit at differing levels depending on whether you choose rooftop or plug-in solar panels), sunny weather is usually ideal for them. But the angle of the panels, as well as the time of year and the position of the sun will have an impact on how much power they generate.

'Between April and September, you can expect to generate around 65-75% of your annual solar electricity, with just 25-35% generated between October and March,' explains George Penny, Expert at The Solar Co.

'This is due to shorter days and the sun sitting lower in the sky, which reduces the amount of sunlight reaching your panels.

'Vertically mounted solar panels can also outperform traditional tilted systems in winter by up to 24.5%, making orientation a key consideration for year-round performance. However, even with optimised systems, winter output will always be lower than summer.'

And so it's best to look at the output of solar panels over a longer period of time. 'The practical takeaway is to think of a solar year as one long summer harvest with a quiet winter, rather than expecting a steady monthly figure,' suggests Andreas Pierrie, founder at Go Solar Today. 'Anyone judging their system on its December numbers is looking at the worst four weeks of the year.'

Are solar panels less effective in a heatwave?

While sunny days are good for solar panels, extreme heatwaves can have a negative impact, which may seem a bit baffling.

'It is one of the biggest misconceptions about solar power,' explains George Penny. 'Solar panels convert sunlight into electricity using semiconductor cells, and as these cells become hotter their electrical properties change, making it less efficient for electricity to flow.

'For every degree Celsius above the standard test temperature of 25ºC, solar panels typically lose around 0.3% to 0.5% of their power output.

'During a UK heatwave, panel surface temperatures can reach 65ºC or more, leading to noticeable efficiency losses.

'However, the abundant sunshine during a heatwave usually outweighs those losses, so while each panel produces slightly less, the sheer amount of sunlight means solar panels can continue generating large volumes of electricity.'

How does rain affect solar panels?

Rain itself might seem like the worst for solar panels, but it can actually have its benefits.

'Rain is the one people worry about and really shouldn't,' says Andreas. 'Panels are sealed units and are hail tested to withstand 25mm ice balls fired at around 50mph, so a British downpour is nothing. If anything rain helps, because it washes off the things that genuinely do cost you output: pollen in May, road dust, bird mess. Left alone, soiling can quietly shave a few percent off generation.'

But while the rain may do some of the work, you might still need to rope in the pros for a proper clean every so often. 'In fact, regular rain is often enough to keep panels clean in the UK, though some homeowners schedule professional cleanings once or twice a year to maintain peak performance,' says George.

How do clouds affect solar panels?

'The real ‘danger’ to solar output isn’t heat, it’s cloud cover, which can cut output by 75% or more on overcast days.' says George Penny. However, fear not, they won't stop working altogether. They'll just generate less than on a sunny day.

Having a battery as part of your solar panel set up can help you to store electricity generated on clear sunny days to use on days when it's a overcast, or on shorter days in winter.

How does snow affect solar panels?

While in most parts of the UK, snow is a something of a rarity, when it hits it can cause problems for your solar panels.

'If snow completely covers the panels, it can significantly reduce or temporarily stop generation because sunlight cannot reach the solar cells, explains Simon Bones, CEO of Genous. 'Fortunately, solar panels are normally installed at an angle, so snow will often slide off naturally as the panels warm up.'

Should you worry about the weather when it comes to solar panels?

While certain weather conditions can have a negative effect on your solar panels effectiveness, it's best to look at how well they perform over a longer term before deciding against them.

'Try not to become too obsessed with what your panels are doing hour by hour. Solar generation apps can become really addictive, but hourly generation doesn’t mean much,' explains Kian Milroy, Renewables Electrical Engineer at Heatable. 'The best way to judge efficiency is tracking production across the year.

'UK weather is incredibly variable, one miserable week in January tells you very little about whether your panels are performing properly.

'It’s also worth knowing that Britain is actually better suited to solar than people often assume. We may not have constant sunshine, but modern panels still generate from diffuse daylight. And when you add in that our relatively mild temperatures are good for panel efficiency, and our very long summer days give systems plenty of opportunity to produce electricity, it works out to be a fairly good match overall.

'If you’re considering solar, I’d be much more concerned about whether the system has been properly designed for your particular roof, rather than worrying about whether the British weather is ‘sunny enough’.'

I'd like to begin by saying that I love the heat and, for me, the long hot summers we've enjoyed these past couple of years are most welcome. That said, it has definitely highlighted to me and, I am sure lots of others, that many homes in the UK, my own included, are really badly suited to high temperatures.

It is in my bedroom that these extreme temperatures can start to cause problems, due, in part, to it being west-facing, meaning it is absorbing heat well into the evening. As a result of overheating, we can all end up using more energy trying to make it cooler. After a hot day, walking in there really can take my breath away – or should I say it used to. Now, however, thanks to introducing some passive and active ways to keep a bedroom cool, this is a space that I don't dread retiring to at night.

If you regularly find that you are just too hot to sleep in your bedroom, I'd like to share with you the best tips and tricks I've found to cool it down – so you wake up refreshed and ready to enjoy these balmy summer days.

1. I've started closing the windows at certain points in the day

I am slightly ashamed to say that, up until the beginning of this particular prolonged period of hot weather, I was guilty of flinging open all the windows in the house as soon as I woke up – believing, wrongly, that this was the best way to keep a room cool.

Since then, I have got much smarter when it comes to my summer window opening routine – this is such an easy method but one you really need to get on board with, as Chloe Dacosta, design manager at Blinds2Go explains. 'When you open your windows during a heatwave, you're actually letting warm air into homes that are naturally designed to retain heat. Once that heat gets inside, it's much harder to remove, meaning your home can quickly become warmer than the temperature outside.

'To keep your bedroom cool, it's best to keep windows, blinds and curtains closed during the hottest part of the day – typically between 11am and 3pm – particularly in south- or west-facing rooms that get the most direct sunlight.'

Additionally, thanks to the advice of Andrew Pemberton, Chartered Building Engineer and senior manager of surveying at The Professional Snagging Company, I have also just invested in a couple of thermometers. 'A simple indoor and outdoor thermometer takes the guesswork out of opening windows, letting you see when it’s genuinely cooler outside – don't just rely on your phone's weather app.'

2. I hung thermal curtains and got on board with blind choreography

Thermal curtains and blinds are one of the best investments I've made for my home. In the winter they help keep the draughts at bay and, in the summer, the thermal curtains keep the heat out and make a huge difference when it comes to keeping my bedroom cool, particularly when using the cavemen method.

Ana Zuravliova, trends specialist at Blinds Direct, explains that the timing of when you close curtains and blinds matters hugely. 'People often think thermal blinds are only useful during winter, but they can also help stop rooms heating up. The timing of when you close them is the important part though – once a room already feels hot, it’s much harder to cool it back down naturally. This is where ‘blind choreography’ really comes in. East-facing rooms often need shading much earlier in the day, while south- and west- facing rooms usually become much hotter later in the afternoon.'

Chloe Dacosta, also advised me that 'window stacking' (combining my curtains with a blackout blind) could improve things even further. 'Layering blinds with curtains adds extra depth and shading to a room. This combination also works particularly well for street-facing windows, helping to reduce light entering the room.

'I always recommend blackout blinds with side tracks for the ultimate in shading,' continues Chloe. 'The opaque fabric blocks light from coming through the blind itself, while the side tracks stop light creeping in around the edges.'

3. Made time to research the best fans to keep cool

I know that most fans don't actually cool the air, but I find them a really effective way to make a room feel cooler and the compact model I have on my bedside table makes a world of difference to my sleep quality in a heatwave.

Michael Zohouri, founder of Pyramid Eco, agrees that investing in the best fans you can lay your hands on is a great way to improve the comfort levels in a hot bedroom. 'I'd always recommend using a fan before reaching for portable air conditioning if the room isn't excessively hot. They're much cheaper to run and can make a surprisingly big difference to how comfortable you feel.'

The way in which you use your fan will also go a long way towards helping lower the internal temperature of your bedroom, as Andrew Pemberton explains. 'Put a fan by the open window after sunset to draw cooler air into the bedroom, but keep the door open so warmer air has somewhere to escape. Additionally, if you are home during the day, place the fan low down and point it upwards to move the cooler air that sits near the floor.'

4. Try my best at cross ventilation

Creating some cross ventilation within your home is such an effective way of helping it feel cooler and often works particularly well when trying to cool down a living room. In my bedroom this can be tricky, however, as there is only one window.

'If you can open windows on opposite sides of the house once the outdoor temperature drops, you'll move far more warm air out than opening one bedroom window on its own,' explains Michael Zohouri.

What I find works, in the absence of two windows, is to open up the windows early and late in the day, keep the bedroom door wide open and then to open up all the other windows on the first floor – this seems to create a good cool breeze to swirl throughout the entire space.

'The big thing is to plan ahead,' advises Michael. 'Don't wait until bedtime to start cooling the room. Stop the heat getting in during the day by shutting windows and closing blinds during a heatwave rather than trying to get rid of it all at 10 o'clock at night.'

5. Fitted solar control window film

This one has really made such a difference and couldn't have been simpler. I bought Climate 35 - Solar Control Film from The Window Film Company and installed it in just under an hour, despite my window being a fiddly multi-paned casement design.

This easy job reduced the late afternoon temperature in my bedroom by 4°C, which might not sound like a lot but actually made it feel so much more comfortable.

One small thing to note is that, from the outside, the windows now have a slightly gold, mirrored look, but I'll take that for a better nights sleep.

6. Pull out the portable air conditioner on really hot days

I've been lucky enough to test a few of the best portable air conditioners just lately and I can vouch for them being a brilliant way to cool down a bedroom fast. That said, there are three reasons why I tend not to use this method on a regular basis.

Firstly, they can be rather noisy to run. I actually don't mind the loud humming, but my husband does – definitely something to note when choosing a portable air conditioner. Secondly, they require an exhaust hose to be run to outside, through the window. As our bedroom is at the front of the house this does look a little unsightly, plus as we have side-hinged casement windows as opposed to sliding sashes, sealing the window up is a little more fiddly. Thirdly, they use quite a bit of energy, so I tend to save mine for those really hot nights.

'If you're struggling to sleep because your bedroom is consistently too hot during the warmer months then a portable air conditioning unit is absolutely worth it,' says Michael Zohouri. 'The key thing to keep in mind is the exhaust hose. That hot air has to go somewhere so make sure the hose is properly sealed through a window kit. If the window is left wide open around the hose, you're letting hot air straight back into the room.'

Shop in-stock portable air conditioners

7. Make sure nothing is obstructing air flow

I've found that creating a cooling breeze within the room is far easier following a good bedroom declutter and after rethinking my furniture layout.

It might sound strange, but Melissa Denham, interior designer from Hammonds Fitted Furniture, backs me up on this point. 'Good airflow is essential to keep any room comfortable during a heatwave, and how your furniture is laid out plays an important role in this.

'Wardrobes and chest of drawers should be positioned so they aren’t blocking windows, doorways or natural airflow routes and instead can enhance natural cross-breeze ventilation,' continues Melissa. 'Bringing larger pieces of furniture slightly away from your walls, where possible, can help to cool a room as well. Air can circulate more freely rather than becoming trapped in stagnant pockets. Five to ten centimetres is enough to help airflow or for bulkier pieces, ten to 15 centimetres.'

FAQs

What type of bedroom blinds are best for keeping out the heat?

The window treatment ideas you choose to shade your bedroom windows will play a huge part in how cool it feels – so choose with care.

'The best blinds for your bedroom depends on your style and shading needs,' says Chloe Dacosta. 'Roman blinds are a great choice for adding cosiness to a scheme, and come in a wide range of patterns with a choice of light-filtering, thermal or blackout linings for customisable light control. For a more contemporary look, wooden blinds work well at redirecting light depending on their rotation, though they won't offer the same level of blackout as fabric options.

'Thermal blinds are specifically designed to tackle temperature extremes,' adds Chloe. 'They create a thermal barrier at the window, helping to keep heat out in the summer and retain warmth in the winter.'

Finally, for an additional level of protection, Chloe suggests shading your home externally with awnings. 'Unlike internal blinds or curtains, awnings stop the sun's rays before they reach your windows, preventing heat from building up inside in the first place.'

When looking at ways to keep your bedroom cool, it also makes sense to research the mistakes that could be making your home hotter – even making simple switches such as remembering not to leave appliances on standby can make a big difference to comfort levels.

When we just have the odd day of hot weather, you might not pay too much attention to how much energy your appliances uses. But considering we're seeing a prolonged hot spell in the UK right now, how much energy your portable air conditioner uses will be more of a concern.

And so it makes sense to ensure you are using your portable air conditioner in the most energy efficient way possible, as well as fostering an environment where it doesn't have to work as hard to cool your space.

'There are a number of simple steps people can take to get the most from their cooling appliances, and just as importantly, some common mistakes that can reduce efficiency and lead to unnecessary energy use,' says Ciaran Murphy, CEO of Dimplex. 'By making a few smart adjustments, households can stay cool and comfortable throughout the summer while getting the best value from their appliances.'

1. Keep the heat out

Firstly, the most important part of using your portable air conditioner more efficiently is making sure you have it well sealed when venting it outside.

While there are plenty of ways you can make a portable air conditioner seal look more attractive, it's key that they are fitted and installed well in order to keep as much hot air out of the room as possible, while keeping the cool air in.

'The most important thing is to stop cool air escaping,' explains Jamie Hillard, Gas Safe and F-Gas registered engineer at Heatable.co.uk. 'Keep windows and doors closed, draw curtains or blinds before the room heats up, and seal any gaps around the exhaust hose’s window kit. A poorly sealed window forces the air conditioner to work continuously against incoming warm air.'

2. Focus on cooling a single room

Following on from keeping the hot air out, it's important that you keep the internal door of the room you are trying to cool shut while your portable air conditioner is in use.

After all, a key factor of choosing the right portable air conditioner for your home is to buy a correctly powered unit for the room size you are trying to cool. For example, this 7000 BTU model from ElectriQ at Appliances Direct is only suitable for rooms up to 20m2, where the 14,000 BTU version can cool rooms up to 38m2.

'Portable air conditioners should also be correctly sized for the room, as an undersized model may operate constantly without ever reaching the desired temperature,' says Jamie.

3. Set a realistic target temperature

On a hot day, you might be tempted to whack your portable air conditioner's target temperature to the lowest possible setting in the hopes that it will provide quicker relief. However, this is definitely not the most efficient way to use your appliance.

'Setting a portable air conditioner to 16°C won't cool the room any faster than setting it to 22 or 23°C,' explains Rhys Powell, Director of Operations at WarmZilla. 'It simply tells the unit to keep running for longer in an attempt to reach a much lower temperature.

'Aiming for around 22 to 24°C provides a comfortable indoor environment while allowing the compressor to cycle on and off instead of running continuously. If your unit has an eco mode or sleep mode, they're also worth using because they automatically adjust performance once the room has cooled, rather than operating at full power all the time.'

4. Position with airflow in mind

Where you position your portable air conditioner will also affect how efficiently it runs.

'Position the unit close to the window so the exhaust hose remains as short and straight as possible, while leaving enough space around the air intake for good airflow,' says Jamie. 'Avoid placing it in direct sunlight or next to heat-producing appliances.'

Check the manufacturer instructions for airflow requirements for your specific appliance. It's usually around 50cm.

5. Complement it with a fan

Teaming your portable air conditioner with one of the best fans is a good way to boost it's effectiveness, in an energy efficient way.

'Fans are inexpensive to run and can help circulate cool air more effectively,' says Ciaran. 'Using fans alongside a portable air conditioner can improve comfort without needing to lower the thermostat further.'

6. Be tactical about when you use it

You might not feel like you need to turn your portable air conditioner on until it's uncomfortably hot, but this can mean you're using more energy than you need to. Instead, the experts advise you to be a bit more tactical about when you use it.

'Portable air conditioners are generally more efficient at maintaining a comfortable temperature than dramatically reducing one,' explains Ciaran. 'Turning the unit on earlier can help reduce the effort required later in the day.'

In more practical terms, Rhys says: 'If you know a hot afternoon is coming, switch the unit on before the room reaches its peak temperature and close the windows, curtains and blinds while it's running. That prevents more heat from entering the room so the air conditioner spends less time trying to remove it.'

7. Maintain your appliance properly

As with any appliance, if you want it to keep operating at peak efficiency, then you'll need to keep on top of the maintenance.

When it comes to portable air conditioners, this means keeping them dust-free, regularly cleaning the air filter, and emptying any water that may be collected and stored during the use of dehumidifier modes.

This summer has been a test on the majority of our homes. Unlike previous heatwaves which can be over in a few days, the prolonged 35+º heat for weeks on end really has been something else.

However, without the infrastructure to cool our homes, we’re all stuck with the windows closed and the curtains drawn during the day to keep the hot air outside and the solar gain to a minimum. These passive cooling strategies have been tried and tested for centuries and are a good way to keep energy usage down while limiting the use fans or air conditioners. But, in a prolonged heatwave like we've seen this summer, saving energy and keeping your house cool can also mean it feels like you live in the dark.

While my house has certain features that help it feel cool in the summer, it can still get really hot when a heatwave hits. As I work from home, I've had to keep the curtains closed to maintain a comfortable temperature, but I’ve also tried to come up with ways to make our living spaces feel brighter and less cave like.

1. I use bamboo blinds for dappled light

We have a downstairs bathroom that thankfully faces north. Now, normally we wouldn’t think twice about this space getting too hot, but with the lengthy heatwave, I’ve found having our bamboo blinds closed during this time still lets in a good amount of light. Certainly enough to put on makeup without looking like a clown!

This makes absolute sense, especially when you consider countries like China, Indonesia and India have all been using bamboo to shade their interior spaces for centuries. And as our climate is warming up for what looks to be the foreseeable, we should be taking note of how traditionally hotter regions mitigate overheating.

Ours were really cost efficient as they were a last-minute purchase after our bathroom was finished, but I wish I had researched ones that were treated for moisture as ours are now looking a bit worse for wear from the room's humidity.

Thermal blinds with a honeycomb weave have become a much recommended product to allow light, but not heat into a shaded room. 'Slatted blinds and shutters are also particularly useful because they can be angled upwards, ' adds Caroline Montague at Villa Sartiano. 'That blocks the direct beam but still sends some daylight towards the ceiling, which gives the room a much softer brightness.'

2. I added voile curtains for diffused light

To diffuse harsher sunlight, we use voile curtains alongside thicker ones for nighttime in our bedroom. Now, I know they have a bad rep from our nans’ houses where net curtains made every room feel gloomy and dated, but there are some gorgeous modern designs to be found that bring a more Parisian elegance to this fabric.

The game-changer for us when it is hot, is that we bought thermal voile curtains so the rate at white the indoor temperature rises is slowed down. This also works the opposite way in the winter.

3. I track the sun’s progression over my house

One of the first things we did when we moved into our house was to take note of where the sun begins its day and where it is positioned at the hottest parts. At the time it was to plan our renovation, but I have found it super useful so we can open and close curtains when I know the sun has moved round.

'After more than 30 years of designing homes, one thing I have learnt is that a house rarely overheats evenly,' explains Caroline Montague 'Follow the sun around the building rather than closing everything at once. An east-facing room may need its curtains drawn early in the morning, while a west-facing room often becomes much hotter later in the afternoon.'

A basic timeline would look like this:

• 7am: West and south-facing curtains open, east-facing closed
• 12pm: East and west open, south closed
• 3pm: West and south closed, east open

I generally don’t worry about our north-facing window as this is a great source of constant diffused light.

4. I'm strategic about the positioning of mirrors

Having the curtains closed all of the time can really affect the mood of the house and too much artificial light can serve to make a space feel dour, especially when overhead lights and table lamps are on during the day while working from home.

'The key is to control how daylight enters and bounces around the room,' says Chloe Barrow, Head of Creative Interiors at Laura James. 'I would avoid placing mirrors directly opposite sunny windows during a heatwave, as they simply bounce the heat deeper into the house. It’s better to place them on perpendicular side walls to catch ambient light, without bringing the heat in.'

Using the pattern from the point above, you can do what we do and strategically place mirrors to reflect the light into rooms that are currently shaded. For instance, the north-facing light of our utility is near a large mirror in the otherwise dark hallway. It allows the light to bound around the space and make it feel much less gloomy.

5. I combine internal measures with external shading

Now, if having your curtains closed during the day is simply too much for you to take, external shading might be a better option. Although this isn’t my first port-of-call, I get it; we spend all year waiting for warm and sunny days and the last thing you want to do is shut yourself away from it all.

So, if you really want to have the curtains open during they day, look to what you can do to the exterior of your house to prevent overheating. One such element we love in for our west-facing patio door that don’t have curtains or blinds is to use natural planting either side of the doors.

Sail shades can also be installed so come light passes through, but the harsh direct sun is diluted a bit. Retractable awnings work much the same, but you can also get mini versions for above windows. This is especially good for home offices.

'Awnings are a brilliant investment as they stop heat before it even hits the glass, without making the room look dark and dreary,' says Chloe Barrow. 'You’re still getting a lot of light, but less heat.'

Now that I've been working from home for more than six years, a period which has included some of the hottest days on record, I like to think I've nailed my process for keeping my home cool.

While I have fitted air conditioning in my living room, and a portable air conditioner and a brilliant fan I can use where I need to, I'm also a big believer in more passive (and energy efficient) cooling methods, like solar control, cross ventilation and night flushing.

However, there's one method I've sworn by over the years — keeping all windows closed during the hottest part of the day (as well as blinds and curtains) — that has felt less effective in my home in the most recent and prolonged heatwave.

While this method has undoubtedly been effective when we've had the odd hot days, preventing the worst of the heat from entering my home, the length and intensity of the most recent hot spell has been one of the most extreme I've experienced.

When I'd kept the windows and blinds shut, especially upstairs, the build up of heat felt far more noticeable to me than ever before. If I needed to go upstairs for anything, I would get to about the ninth step before my head would enter a stifling blanket of heat. Something about entering that environment head first made it seem all the more acute.

Then at night, when the temperature cooled slightly outside, I would open all of the windows to get some cross ventilation going, but the heat didn't seem to escape. I'd even point fans out of the open windows to help give the night flushing a helping hand, but it still remained far too hot to sleep upstairs. Fortunately, I have a comfortable air bed (this Silentnight king sized air bed, £57.99 at Amazon that is also the top pick in our best air beds guide) that means I can decamp to the living room for a cooler night's sleep.

After the first couple of days of the heatwave, and the accumulation of heat, I decided to leave the upstairs windows open (but curtains mostly closed, with a small gap in the centre) to see how much of a difference it made. And interestingly, it definitely made the stifling blanket of heat considerably less oppressive as I headed up the stairs.

Admittedly, it was still very warm (and in most cases, when temperatures exceed 30°C, there's only some much you can do before you need to resort to active cooling measures like fans and air conditioning to create a cooler environment), but it didn't feel any warmer than before, when I'd had the windows closed.

And granted, if my home was oriented in a different way, and I had rooms that were naturally shaded and cool despite the heat outside, then keeping the windows closed would be essential to maintain that coolness for as long as possible. However, my home's orientation and position in a little sun trap mean that it seemingly feels the full effects of the sun from the moment it rises until it sets.

By leaving the upstairs windows open, and this may have been due to a bit more of a breeze outside, it felt like the night flushing was more effective too (although I did end up sleeping with two fans — one blowing on me, and one blowing out of the window).

While having the upstairs windows open may have been a bit of a placebo in terms of its effectiveness, managing solar gain by keeping my blackout curtains closed whenever the sun is out is still an absolute no-brainer for me. Upstairs curtains will be closed for most of the day, and I'm tactical about when I close my kitchen curtains so that I can still enjoy the daylight, but just keep the worst of the heat gain at bay.

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Plug-in solar panels could be available to buy in the UK soon after the 27 August 2026, when updated legislation comes into effect.

Back in March, the Government announced that plug-in solar panels would be available 'within months', offering households across the UK a chance to offset their energy bills by generating their own electricity at home. Panels like this are already widely used across parts of Europe, and are both renter friendly and considerably more affordable than rooftop solar installations.

But in order for plug-in solar panels to legally sold in the UK, certain regulations around plugs and sockets needed to be updated to allow power generating tech, like plug-in solar panels, to be self-installed and used safely. The government consulted with industry professionals on proposed changes, saying that it wanted to move 'at pace' to bring plug-in solar panels to UK homes.

Even when the new legislation is in place, plug-in solar panels could be dangerous if connected to old or faulty wiring, so it's wise to get them checked by a qualified electrician.

Those legislative amendments have now been laid before Parliament and are due to come into force on Thursday 27 August 2026, and we expect retailers, like Lidl, Amazon, Currys and B&Q, to make their plug-in solar panels offerings available to buy on or soon after that date.

'We are working closely with government and suppliers to understand and help shape the guidance, ensuring any products we offer are safe, compliant and straightforward to install,' says Graham Bell, CEO of B&Q. 'We look forward to making plug-in solar available to our customers as soon as possible.'

There is also hope that these legislative changes are just the beginning, and will open the door for even more affordable and easy to install technology to become available to those in the UK.

'The Government's announcement is a really important step towards making solar energy available to far more people across the UK,' says Aaron James Darvill, Strategic Sales Director at Anker SOLIX. 'Until now, generating your own electricity has largely been limited to homeowners with the right roof and the budget for a full solar installation. Plug-in solar changes that. It gives renters, people living in flats and households without suitable roofs a simpler and more affordable way to get started.'

'While this is a major milestone, battery storage will be the next important step. Plug-in solar generates the most electricity during the day, but most households use the most energy in the evening. Without battery storage, consumers can't store surplus energy to use when they need it most, limiting the savings and flexibility the technology can deliver.

'Across Europe, we’ve seen that people rarely buy their final solar energy system on day one. They start small, see the benefits for themselves and then add more panels or battery storage as their needs grow. We expect the UK to follow a similar path, with battery storage playing an increasingly important role in helping households maximise the value of the energy they generate and reduce their reliance on the grid. We're also encouraged that a regulatory framework for plug-in battery storage is expected to follow, helping ensure these systems can be adopted safely and with confidence.'

If you are keen to embrace plug-in solar panels, make sure you understand how they differ to rooftop solar panels so you make the right choice for your home.

New Prime Minister Andy Burnham has announced that VAT will be cut from household electricity bills from 1 October 2026.

The move, which will see 5% VAT reduced to zero, is expected to cut around £45 from typical annual electricity bills over winter, and will be welcome news to those who already go to significant lengths to save energy at home and reduce their monthly bills.

Speaking less than 48-hours into his new role, Prime Minister Andy Burnham said: 'I said I wanted to give people breathing space, and that’s what I’m announcing on my second day as Prime Minister.

'We’re taking immediate action to cut taxes on energy bills, put more money in people’s pockets and bring back hope.

'Cutting VAT on electricity bills is expected to take around £45 off the yearly Ofgem price cap in October.'

The reduction is set to be passed on to the millions of households in England, Wales and Scotland via their suppliers and is expected to include those on both fixed and standard variable tariffs. While some measures of energy bill relief over recent years have only been available to those in receipt of certain benefits, no such eligibility criteria has been announced for this VAT reduction.

Rules work slightly differently in Northern Ireland, but the government has said that the NI Executive will receive comparable funding to enable it to similarly support households in Northern Ireland.

While the energy price cap figure for the period between 1 October and 31 December 2026 has yet to be announced by the energy regulator Ofgem, current predictions from analysts at Cornwall Insight have the cap sitting at around £1,849 (based on the current typical domestic consumption values of 2,700 kWh per annum for electricity and 11,500 kWh per annum for gas). As a comparison, the current energy price cap is set at £1,862.

The official price cap figure for autumn will be announced on 26 August, and will be calculated using new typical domestic consumption values to reflect a fall in the average household's energy use.

Is it enough to help struggling households?

Is an average £45 annual reduction enough to help households struggling with high electricity bills? In isolation, probably not. But it's a step in the right direction to provide some relief, especially at a time when households are more likely to be using more electricity hungry appliances, like tumble dryers.

When combined with other electricity saving measures, from simply turning off vampire appliances to more involved solutions like investing in plug-in solar panels (when they become available) or a rooftop solar panel array, households can also reduce their energy consumption to lower their bills.

If you are still concerned you won't be able to pay your energy bills over the colder months, reach out to your supplier in the first instance. They will be able to help move you on to a cheaper tariff if applicable, or check your eligibility for further assistance.

On 1 July, the energy price cap went up by 13%. That means that if you aren't on a fixed tariff and are instead on your supplier's standard variable tariff, the price you pay for your energy has gone up.

While you might have already tried a few ways to save energy at home, there's only so much you can do when it comes to those appliances that you have little choice but to use. And in a heatwave, that very well be a portable air conditioner.

But how much more are you actually paying to run a portable AC in this heatwave compare to the heatwaves in May and June? I've broken down it down below for portable air conditioners and other most commonly used appliances. You can also use our new calculator below to see how much any of your appliances are costing you. All you need to know is the wattage.

Portable air conditioner: this is based on a portable AC that uses 1350W in cooling mode. Washing machine: this is based on a machine using 1.13kWh on a standard cotton 60° cycle. Dishwasher: this is based on slimline integrated model that uses 1.12kWh per quick and shine 60° cycle. Tumble dryer: this is based on an 8kg capacity, B-rated condenser tumble dryer, using 4.75kWh per full load on the standard cotton drying programme. Oven: this is based on an example 0.8kW oven. Air fryer: this is based on a 1500W basket air fryer.

To check your specific appliances that may have different wattages to those mentioned in the table above, you can use our brand new tool below.

Simply pop in the wattage of your appliance, tick whether that it's kilowatts or Watts, and if you don't know how much you pay for your energy, our tool will use the current July 2026 price cap figure. If you want to see what you were paying before the price cap increase, simply put in the figure 0.2467 when asked how much you pay for your energy. This is the price (in pounds) for a unit of electricity under the April 2026 price cap which ended on 30 June 2026.

While an extra couple of pence might not seem like a lot, add together the increase of all the appliances you use in your home, and consider how often you use them and how long for and it'll soon tot up.

And so if you're shocked by how much more you are paying now that the new price cap is in effect, there are things you can do to bring the cost down. Firstly, you could look into switching to a fixed price tariff that would reduce how much you pay for the energy you use, and protect you from further price rises for the duration of the fix (usually 12, 18 or 24 months). Use a price comparison website, like our sister brand Go.Compare, Compare the Market or Uswitch.

If you've already done that, or you can't find a suitable deal, then reducing how much energy your appliances consume is another way to lower your bills. I've tried multiple tricks so far this year to reduce my energy consumption, from not using my tumble dryer for a month, switching to a cooler washing machine cycle, or opting for a much more energy-efficient dishwasher mode.

Keeping an eye out for vampire appliances that waste energy and turning them off at the wall is another way to reduce your home's energy consumption, and as a result, your bills.

Thousands of homes in England and Wales will be eligible to receive a £9,000 grant to switch to a heat pump this summer, the Government has announced. This is an increase from the previous £7,500 grant that was available to help homes switch from fossil fuel buringing boilers.

Heat pumps are becoming a more popular heating choice due to the fact that they’re a more energy-efficient choice compared to a standard gas boiler, with lower running costs. They’re already hugely popular in countries with colder climates such as Norway, Finland and Sweden.

Heat pumps are powered by electricity rather than fossil fuels such as oil or gas, and this latest increase in the government's boiler upgrade scheme funding is to help rural households in England and Wales make the move to a heat pump and protect them from fossil fuel spikes. Here’s everything you need to know.

The Boiler Upgrade Scheme grant

On 26 June, the Department for Energy Security and Net Zero announced that from 21 July, the Boiler Upgrade Scheme grant is increasing by 20%, from £7,500 to £9,000, to help rural households switch from heating oil to heat pumps.

The Government says this grant will electrify families’ heating, meaning they are protected from future fossil price spikes and providing greater certainty over energy bills. If the latest Price Cap Announcement has left you worried about your energy bills, investing in a heat pump can be a smart choice if you’re looking to make your home more energy efficient and save money in the long run.

Leaflets about the scheme will be posted to 200,00 eligible households across England and Wales this week (week commencing 29 June), providing more information on how to claim the extra funding. You can also check your eligibility via the Gov.uk website, on the Apply for the Boiler Upgrade Scheme page.

‘This government is determined to bring down energy bills, but I know the war in the Middle East has hit households on heating oil especially hard,’ said Minister for Energy Consumers Martin McCluskey.

‘We have already taken action to support these households through confirming over £50 million in support for vulnerable customers on heating oil.

‘Now, the Boiler Upgrade Scheme will help thousands of families across England and Wales switch to clean heat to protect them from volatile fossil fuels.’

‘The Boiler Upgrade Scheme continues to play a vital role in supporting households to adopt heat pumps, and this £1,500 uplift will make the transition significantly more affordable for the thousands of oil-heated homes,' says Charlotte Lee, CEO, Heat Pump Association UK.

‘Many of these households have faced considerable price uncertainty in recent months, without the protection of the energy price cap, and this £9,000 grant will help shield families from volatile fossil fuel costs, by using home-grown electricity, in the years ahead.’

If you’ve been considering installing a heat pump, you should check to see if you’re eligible for the Boiler Upgrade Scheme. They are an expensive investment, costing £12,500 on average according to the Boiler Upgrade Scheme statistics. But the new increase in the grant available to certain households makes it a more affordable and accessible option.

Experts have revealed the five household appliances to switch off during a heatwave to help your home stay cool and save money on your energy bills,

If you’ve been wondering whether you should switch off appliances during summer, the answer is yes, you should. Not only do vampire devices cause your bills to add up, but many appliances emit excess heat, which is never a good thing in periods of hot weather.

Turning off household appliances you’re not using is a great, free way to cool your home. These are the five the experts say to turn off now.

1. Countertop appliances

While the best air fryers, microwaves, blenders and perhaps the viral Ninja Creami (£199.99 at Amazon), considering the weather, are great appliances to have on your countertops, they do produce unnecessary heat if not unplugged.

‘The kitchen can easily become the hottest room in the house, especially when cooking or with larger appliances such as washing machines or dishwashers running. This can become unbearable during heatwaves, so there are some small steps you can take to help reduce room temperature,’ says appliance expert at AO.com, Katie Lillywhite.

'Start with smaller worktop appliances, like microwaves, kettles, toasters and coffee machines. Some more modern varieties feature digital displays which can generate more heat alongside internal components. Switching them off at the outlet when they’re not in use can keep the space cooler.

2. Tumple dryers

You should also be avoiding your tumble dryer and drying clothes outside where possible. If you have a small garden or balcony, Argos Home’s £11 retractable line is great for small spaces.

‘Tumble dryers are among the greatest sources of indoor heat generated in UK households. Using tumble dryers produces a lot of warm air in the immediate environment, quickly making utility rooms, kitchens, and adjacent rooms very warm in no time,’ says Max Wilson, co-founder at Pocket Storage.

‘During times of heatwaves, it is worthwhile to make use of the weather and dry clothes outside whenever possible. It not only keeps your house cooler, but it also cuts back on your expenses.’

3. Standby electronics

Another big culprit for excessive heat is standby electronics. From TVs to game consoles, these all emit extra heat you don’t need during a heatwave.

‘Many people underestimate how much heat everyday electronics generate, even in standby mode. Smart TV’s, games consoles and streaming boxes continually draw power and release low-level heat which can subtly raise room temperature when combined with other appliances,’ says Katie.

‘Try to keep them unplugged when not in use on hot days, as this will not only cut energy consumption but also reduce heat that can make a room feel stuffy.’

4. Chargers and adapters

During the most recent heatwave, I was kind of worried my phone was about to explode whilst charging. It is an old model, but I couldn’t believe the heat coming off it - and experts say you should avoid leaving them plugged in when you don’t need them.

‘Mobile phone chargers, laptop chargers and adapters tend to remain connected to the wall socket at all times. If you've ever picked up an adapter that wasn't in use, only to find out that it was still hot to the touch, it's because it was still using some electricity,’ says Max.

‘As insignificant as the effect is by itself, their cumulative effects lead to energy wastage and generate unwanted heat. Unplugging them would be one way of saving some energy.’

5. Lights

Lastly, your lighting can be generating excess heat and wasting lighting. While layered lighting might be a popular lighting trend, ask yourself if you really need it during hot weather.

‘Lighting is something that is often overlooked as a means of generating unnecessary heat. Older bulbs, in particular, can give off a lot more heat when compared to LED alternatives. Be sure to keep lights switched off as much as possible throughout the day and consider swapping incandescent or halogen bulbs for LEDs,’ says Katie.

If you want to stay cool and save money, make sure you keep these appliances switched off when not in use.

Working, walking, eating, sleeping, being - it all felt rather impossible in this stifling heatwave. So, in a way to beat the heat, I’ve been trying the Alison Hammond-approved sock cooling hack, and it’s great for providing instant relief in hot weather.

I’m not one to usually complain about hot weather, but I’m not lying when I say my flat has felt like a furnace this week. It’s south-facing and stuffy, and I’ve been struggling to cool my home, even with the best cooling hacks at my fingertips.

Given that the best portable air conditioners are basically sold out everywhere, and my best fan is pretty much blowing hot air around my home, I’ve had to get creative. And that involves filling an old sock with rice and stuffing it in the freezer.

The rice and sock cooling hack

I’ve not lost my mind, I promise! But a sock filled with frozen rice has been a game-changer and is helping me stay cool this week. Simply pressing it to my wrists and neck has provided instant relief - especially when working from home.

I say it is Alison Hammond-approved because I first became aware of the hack when the presenter, who is a self-proclaimed genius at staying cool, revealed her trick during a segment on This Morning back in August 2020.

It is incredibly simple. You take a clean sock, fill it with rice and tie the end. Then pop it into your freezer for one to three hours. The result feels like an icy bean bag, which moulds easily to the contours of your body, providing instant relief.

This week, I’ve used the hack to keep me cool when working and when I’m trying to sleep. I’ve even taken to placing it on my pillow while I brush my teeth, so my pillow feels nice and cold when I lie down. Speaking to my mum, I found out she even uses this hack to help keep our elderly dog cool in hot weather.

The frozen rice is not harshly cold. Where putting an ice-pack straight to your skin can feel intense, offering a burning cold, the rice hack is far more subtle. It’s comfortable and cool from the get-go. It also feels completely dry, which surprised me. Unlike an ice pack, you don’t have to worry about water beading down your body or pooling around your home.

My main qualm is that the rice doesn’t stay as cool for as long as I’d like it to, and I find myself putting it back in the freezer around three times a day. Because of this, when payday rolls around, I will be treating myself to the Shark ChillPill (£129.99, Amazon) or the Shark FlexBreeze HydroGo Misting Fan (£149.99, Currys), which both offer hours of powerful cooling.

Having said that, I do think the rice hack is a great, practically free way to cool down, and is a great temporary solution if you don’t have any other cooling products to hand. However, if you plan on using this hack frequently, place your sock in a ziplock bag before putting it in the freezer to maintain good hygiene.

‘If you regularly put and take out the sock with wet rice in it from the freezer, you will eventually get mould, mildew, and a terrible musty odour in your drawers. In order to make this trick fully hygienic and prevent any moisture in your sheets, you have to place the rice-filled sock in a tightly closed Ziploc bag first before freezing it. The moisture becomes blocked off completely, making sure the rice remains perfectly dry,’ says Max Wilson, co-founder at Pocket Storage.

‘Finally, make sure the fabric is right. Only use socks made of pure, thick cotton. Synthetic materials, such as nylon or polyester, cannot tolerate cold temperatures and would lead to ice burns if placed directly on your skin.’

Shop cooling appliances:

As unconventional as a sock filled with frozen rice sounds, it has genuinely helped cool me down when temperatures have soared. I will be saving this trick for the next heatwave!

Seeing that energy bills are set to increase by 13% on average from 1 July, and the temperature is starting to rise, I'm sure, like me, the cost of running any cooling appliances is on your mind. If you’re looking for cheap ways to cool a home during a heatwave, you’re in luck, as I spoke to several energy experts for their three simple hacks.

As much as I adore summer and warm weather (who doesn’t?)My flat often feels like a furnace when temperatures soar. While the best portable air conditioners are one of the best ways to stay cool, they can be expensive investments, costing hundreds of pounds for a unit.

So, if you want to cool a home on a budget and offset rising energy costs, here are three hacks you should try this heatwave.

1. Keep your curtains and blinds closed

One of the easiest (and completely free) ways to help keep your home cool is by keeping your blinds and curtains shut during the hottest parts of the day. This is because it blocks sunlight streaming into your home and increases the temperature.

‘Windows are one of the main sources of heat gain in a home. When sunlight passes through glass, it turns into heat and gets trapped inside. Closing blinds or curtains during peak sunlight hours can reduce this ‘greenhouse effect’, helping interiors stay noticeably cooler without relying on energy-intensive solutions like fans or air conditioning,’ says Yvonne Keal, product expert at Hillarys.

‘With energy prices still a concern following the latest Ofgem announcement, passive cooling methods like this are a smart way to cut costs. By keeping rooms naturally cooler, you can reduce the need for electric fans or portable air conditioning units, which can cost anywhere from 2p to over 30p per hour to run, depending on the appliance.’

Blackout blinds (such as this £14.40 option at Dunelm) and thermal curtains (£26.66 at Argos) can be particularly effective at keeping heat out. This is because they are specially designed to stop heat from escaping in winter and to stop heat from filtering into your home during summer.

2. Turn off heat generating appliances

It turns out that it’s not just sunshine making your home feel too hot. Left-in plugs can also generate excess heat. So, you should ensure you’re switching off all plugs when not in use to reduce temperature and save money on your energy bill (because vampire appliances will add to your bill even when not in use). If you’re someone who often forgets to turn off plugs, it’s worth investing in smart plugs (£29.99, Argos) so you can control your plugs from your phone.

‘Anything that plugs in and warms up, such as ovens, dishwashers, tumble dryers, gaming consoles, or even phone chargers left plugged in, can add a surprising amount of heat to a room. Try running dishwashers and washing machines early in the morning or late at night, and air-dry clothes outside or on a rack rather than using the tumble dryer,’ says Sam Carter, home heating and cooling expert (HVAC) at Appliances Direct.

‘Also, swap oven cooking for salads, cold proteins or microwave meals during the hottest part of the day. You’d be amazed at how much cooler a kitchen feels when the oven hasn’t been on. Switching to ‘no cooking’ meals costs nothing and saves energy too.’

3. Hang a damp sheet over your window

This free hack turns bedding into an air conditioner. All you need to do is hang a bed sheet, which has been dampened in cold water, over your window, and the air will cool as it passes through.

‘As the warmer air enters your home, the moisture on the sheet helps to lower the temperature, creating a cooler, more refreshing breeze. Make sure that the room is well ventilated so that the evaporated water has somewhere to escape to,’ says Ruth MacEachern, ventilation specialist at envirovent.

‘Keeping your home well-ventilated during a heatwave is key to preventing temperatures from rising too much. Small changes can have a big impact, helping to keep your home cool and manageable during warmer periods.’

Stay cool

If you're still struggling to beat the heat, a portable air conditioner really can make a world of difference. If you've been wondering if portable air conditioners are worth it, experts say they cost between 20p and 68p per hour to run, in line with the most recent Price Cap.

Remember, portable air conditioners are already selling out fast across different brands and retailers. Now is the time to buy if you want one.

Rising energy bills can cause stress for any household. Using free cooling hacks where you can will help, but you should reach out to your energy supplier for support if you're stuggling to pay your bills.

I might be a home energy expert, but that doesn't mean I'm nailing it when it comes to the most efficient use of energy in my own home.

While I've adopted loads of ways to save energy around the house, life gets busy and I sometimes cut corners on my good energy habits for the sake of making life a little bit more manageable.

But now that it's been confirmed that the energy price cap is going up by 13% in July, my attention is well and truly back on ways I might be wasting energy unnecessarily. And right off the bat, I know there's one habit I need to curb, and that's running my dishwasher before it's full.

It's the same story with washing machines and tumble dryers, if you run them before they are full, you are potentially doing more loads that you need to, and your appliance is using the same amount of energy to run the cycle for a half-load as it is a full one.

While I do know this, I hate leaving dirty dishes in the dishwasher while I wait until it's full. And sometimes, especially if I am out and about, I may not have a full dishwasher for a couple of days. If the half load is particularly soiled, I definitely don't fancy leaving that for a couple of days, getting all crusted on and smelly. Yuck.

I've often been tempted to rinse the dishes beforehand, it turns out that is one of the dishwasher mistakes that is also adding to household bills too. If that's not enough, cleaning sensation Mrs Hinch also says it's a waste of time.

So as a result, I've been running my dishwasher on half loads to clean the dirty dishes rather than leaving them sitting in there for days. Yes I could handwash them, but after doing without my dishwasher for a month, it's one luxury I don't really want to go without.

But I also know that these little energy wasting habits build up, and while they may not seem to have huge cost implications individually, add them together and you soon see a sizeable impact on energy bills. According to the Energy Saving Trust, by only running full dishwasher loads and reducing your dishwasher use by just one cycle a week can save £11 a year on your energy bills.

If I do that, and choose a more eco-friendly dishwasher setting at the same time, I could save up to £26 per year. If I go even further, and stop using my tumble dryer entirely (I use it less in summer anyway), that could save my £93 a year, and only wash my clothes on a 30°C cycle, I could save an additional £33. Totted up, that equals £152, which will go a long way to offset the £221 increase in the price cap that's coming into force in July 2026.

But if I do opt for eco cycles in my dishwasher and tumble dryer, I need to make sure my detergent is up to the challenge. I've been using some Ecover dishwasher tablets (£16.40 at Amazon) recently, which have impressed me. I also swear by Fairy Platinum Plus dishwasher tablets. For my washing machine, I've also been using the Ecover Bio Laundry Tabs which are effective at removing stains in even a 20°C wash.

However, if I went even further still and stopped using my dishwasher and tumble dryer altogether, and still washed my clothes on a cooling washing cycle, I could save £231, which more than offsets the price cap increase.

Lidl has launched an affordable solar battery in Germany, at an ideal time to help households offset rising energy prices.

The battery is designed to work with most plug-in solar panels, which are already common across parts of Europe. Neither the battery or the panels are currently available in the UK, but that could change as the government announced plans to upgrade grid codes and wiring rules to allow plug-in solar panels and connected batteries to be used safely.

This tech could be available in the UK in months, which is fortuitous timing given that Ofgem has just announced that the energy price cap will be rising by 13% in July.

By teaming a plug-in solar panel with a battery, you could store energy that you don't use in real time and use it later. This could reduce the amount of energy you need to buy from the grid and lower energy bills as a result.

According to PV Magazine, Lidl's newest solar offering is a 2.24kWh battery, with a 1,000W input and 800W output and is compatible with most plug-in solar panel systems. The battery unit measures 31cm × 17cm × 350cm and weighs approximately 19.8kgs. In terms of price, the Lidl battery costs €299, which is about £260, and there is an app-controlled version that Lidl is also selling for €399 (roughly £345). Those who buy the battery will need to buy the plug-in solar panels and microinverter separately.

While the cost of traditional rooftop solar panel installations can be completely unaffordable for many, plug-in solar options, including those with a solar battery, can be a lot more affordable. But, while both rooftop and plug-in solutions both harness the sun's energy and turn it into usable electricity in your home, there are stark differences between the two set-ups that you should be aware of before you choose one over the other.

If plug-in solar is the right option for you, you'll have to wait a little while longer before you can set it up in your home. There's not yet been confirmation as to when households will be able to buy plug-in solar panels in the UK, and until they are on sale, the associated solar batteries won't be seen on shelves either. While you wait, you could always invest in a portable solar panel and power bank, like the Jackery Explorer 1000 v2+ 100W Solar Panel Portable Power Station (£549 at Amazon).

The weather might be warming up and, like me, many households have switched off their heating, but that doesn’t mean you should forget about your energy bills over the warmer months.

With energy prices predicted to rise in July due to tensions in the Middle East, it’s still just as important as ever to take steps to save energy around the home.

Fortunately, this process doesn’t have to be difficult or involve complicated tasks. In fact, I recently made it my mission to carry out some quick 10-minute fixes around my home to see how much I could save on my bills, and I think they'll work for you too.

1. Swapping to LED bulbs

First up, I decided to ensure all the light bulbs in my home were switched to long, lasting energy-efficient LED bulbs. Having noticed that some of the old bulbs were emitting a lot of heat, I knew that switching to LED bulbs would have several benefits.

‘Traditional halogen and incandescent bulbs need replacing more often and use up to five times more electricity than low-energy alternatives, which means they often cost more to run long-term,’ says energy expert Ben Gallizzi from Uswitch.

‘By replacing every bulb in your home with LEDs of the same brightness, you could save around £40 a year on your electricity bill.’

It was really quick and easy to do and while the savings aren’t massive, it’s pretty decent for a small switch.

2. Switching appliances off at the wall

While there are a few counter-top kitchen appliances you should never leave on standby, there are plenty of other vampire devices that will be unnecessarily sucking energy from your home.

And so making sure no appliances were left on standby mode was another task of mine. It only takes a few minutes to check that all appliances are switched off at the wall.

I tend to do this at the end of the day or if I am going out. It’s surprising how many of my family members leave things on standby!

According to the Energy Saving Trust, this simple task can save around £45 a year.

3. Draught-proofing the windows

My bedroom windows tend to let cold air in through the cracks. However, by investing in some draught-proofing tape (foam strips), £4 from Amazon, I’ve managed to seal up those cracks to keep the room warmer, which is particularly important while the nights are still cool!

This job was a little more fiddly than some, but it certainly wasn’t difficult. The Energy Saving Trust reckons that draught proofing doors and windows should save up to £85 a year. For me, that’s less likely as it’s only two windows but even a saving of £10 a year would help.

4. Filling up the washing machine

In the past I have been guilty of sticking on the washing machine even when it’s not full, just to get a few items of clothing clean. But no more! From now on, the washing machine always has a full load before I switch it on.

‘Running one full load instead of two half-loads can roughly cut the energy and water usage in half for that amount of laundry,’ says Matthew Glynn, appliance expert at Hisense.

‘However, overloading your washing machine means your items won’t be properly cleaned, so always aim to load your washing machine to the point there is roughly a "hand's span" of space at the top of the drum, allowing clothes to move freely through a wash cycle.’

Washing one less load per week and turning the temperature down to 30°C instead of 40°C can save around £27 a year, according to the Energy Saving Trust.

5. Hanging the washing outside more often

Finer weather means it’s now much easier to get my washing out on the line rather than relying on the tumble dryer or one of the best heated airers to dry clothes.

Admittedly it takes a little more time to get it all outside, rather than tossing it into the dryer. But doing so can bring savings of around £50 a year, so it’s definitely worth it. Plus it has the added bonus of making my washing smell fresher.

6. Using the eco setting on the dishwasher

I have also made the switch to using the eco setting on my dishwasher for most cycles. The cycle takes a bit longer but it still gets the dishes clean and it’s saving me around £35 a year for minimal effort. I’m saving on water too, so it’s a double win.

How much will I save on my energy bills with these changes?

On their own, the energy savings I am making aren’t huge, but when you add them together, it works out to be a saving of around £207 a year. That’s pretty impressive when these tasks haven’t taken me long or negatively affected my lifestyle in any way — in fact, many have come with added benefits.

I'm not ashamed to admit that I am a creature of habit. And that extends into all areas of my life, from where I go on holiday and my outfit choices, all the way to the settings I tend to use on my washing machine and dishwasher.

While many of these habits offer no negative outcome, that may not be the case when it comes to my appliances. After all, different settings use different amounts of energy, and using the wrong one (or not using the right one) means wasting energy unnecessarily. Definitely not a desirable result considering energy prices are likely to rise in the summer as the impact of current world events manifests in the energy price cap.

So I'm trying to be more mindful about how I use my most energy hungry appliances. I went a month without using my dishwasher (which I'm not sure I can stick with long term), which meant it was more important that ever to be more mindful of the settings I was using. And I noticed there was one setting that I never used, but that could actually be a much more energy efficient setting.

The dishwasher setting I always skipped and why

My dishwasher has six different settings, and I usually gravitate towards either the Eco, Intensive or Quick & Shine options depending on how dirty the dishes are and how quickly I want them washed. But if energy bills are going to go up, I also want to make sure I can save energy at home where I can.

I regularly use the Eco setting, which runs at 50°C (10-20°C cooler that the Quick & Shine or Intensive cycles), but takes much longer. Eco takes a whopping 239 minutes, while the Intensive cycle takes a sizeable 164, and the Quick & Shine takes a very speedy 58 minutes.

But in all the years I've had the dishwasher, I have never once used the Mini setting, which runs at 35°C and takes just 30 minutes. I'd always assumed that a Mini wash would either be much more energy intensive than the Eco setting, or nowhere near as effective as one of the other cycles.

But was I right or had I been missing out? I put it to the test. Logic tells me that a quick and low temperature dishwasher cycle is never going to be enough to clean heavily soiled dishes from the likes of oven bakes or roasts. Instead I tried it with light-medium soiled dishes from breakfast and lunch to see how it fared. And honestly, I could see no discernable difference between results from the Eco and Mini cycles.

And so I tried it with slightly more soiled dishes and saw no real difference in outcome between the the Mini and Quick & Shine cycles. I will caveat that by saying that the results may also be down to the detergent I used, which is designed to be effective at lower temperatures. I used Ecover's All-in-One Power dishwasher tablets, (£8.50 at Amazon).

Have I been wasting energy?

While the Eco setting is, unsurprisingly, the most energy efficient cycle my dishwasher has — using 0.73kWh of energy each wash, which equates to 18p per cycle. While that's the most cost effective cycle, sometimes the duration of the programme (almost 4 hours) is off-putting.

Because of that, I do use the Quick & Shine cycle when I want dishes cleaned quickly. While that setting is 3 hours quicker, it runs hotter, which means it uses more energy. Each Quick & Shine cycle uses 1.12kWh of energy, which based on current energy prices, costs just under 28p per cycle.

When I use the Intensive programme, it uses 1.25kWh and costs just under 31p each time.

In comparison, the Mini cycle uses only slightly more energy than the Eco setting (0.74kWh), despite taking 209 minutes less. In cost terms, there is about a quarter of a penny difference between the Eco and Mini cycles. While the Eco and Mini cycles are on par with each other in terms of energy usage, the difference in duration makes the Mini programme all the more appealing.

However, in my desire for speedy dishwashing, there's a 10p difference in the cost of running the Quick & Shine cycle versus the Mini programme. That might not sound like much, but if I swapped using the Quick & Shine setting three times a week for the Mini setting, over the course of a year, I would save more than £15 on my energy bills.

And saving £15 with no real difference in the cleanliness of my dishes feels like a no-brainer for me! That said, I will still use the Intensive cycle when the dishes earn it.

Add this to washing my clothes on a cooler cycle, and I could significantly reduce how much energy I was wasting.

As someone who writes about saving energy for a living, I love setting myself little challenges to see if I can use less energy around my own home.

I've already tackled two of my most used and energy-hungry appliances — I went without my tumble dryer for a month, and then followed suit by switching from using my dishwasher to handwashing for the same amount of time.

Next energy-guzzler on my list? My washing machine. While I definitely cannot do without using my washing machine at all for a month, I did switch from my go-to cycles to a cooler wash for 4 weeks to see how much energy I could save, and importantly whether my clothes came out as clean.

Which washing machine cycles did I stop using?

I tend to use my washing machine 3-4 times a week, and tend to use either a 40° or 60° wash depending on what what I'm washing and how dirty it is (I'm regularly in woods and fields with my dog, who loves to greet me enthusiastically when incredibly muddy).

Over a normal four week period, this is how much energy I'd be using according to my washing machine's instruction manual, and how much it's costing based on the April 2026 price cap of 24.67p/kWh for a unit of electricity.

Totting this up, my washing machine costs £3.94 to run over a four week period, which adds up to £51.22 a year.

But according to E.ON, around 90% of the energy used by a washing machine goes to heating the water, so its safe to say that I could reduce energy wastage and save money on my energy bills by switching to a cooler washing cycle.

How much did I save by switching to a cooler wash?

Instead of using my normal washing cycles, I used my washing machine's Push & Wash cycle, which is describes as being ideal for cotton and synthetic fabrics. It washes at a temperature of 30° with a maximum spin speed 14% less than the cycles I normally use (1200rpm rather than 1400rpm).

This cycle uses 0.35kWh per use according to my smart meter. Used 16 times over a four-week period, this tots up to £1.38 based on current energy prices, £2.56 cheaper than the cycles I was using previously.

Over a year, using only that cooler cycle would cost £17.94, £33.28 (65%) cheaper than the annual cost of the hotter cycles.

Did my clothes come out as clean?

A big concern for many people around switching to a cooler washing cycle, is that laundry won't be cleaned effectively.

Fortunately, more and more detergents are available that work on cleaning clothes on washes as cool as 20°, like Ecover's laundry capsules (£8 from Amazon), that I used.

I've not seen a noticeable difference in how clean my clothes are when they come out of a cooler wash. They smell and feel nice, and any marks are gone. I did use both a bio version of the detergent, which uses enzymes to help break down any stains, as well as a non-bio version, and both seemed effective.

I will say though, that apart from some mud stains, I wasn't dealing with any heavily soiled laundry loads during my experiment. I also don't live in a household with any one who was poorly or works in a healthcare environment, where there is benefit to washing at higher temperatures in order to get rid of any nasty germs.

There's been a lot of buzz around plug-in solar panels but how do they actually compare with more conventional panels on all the things that matter, like price, installation and their impact on energy bills?

With panels now available to buy in the UK, amidst a government drive to lower energy bills, this energy-saving technology is becoming more readily available and affordable than ever before.

However there are fundamental differences in how plug-in solar panels work and the savings that can be achieved compared to traditional panels. And it's worth having a handle on how these systems differ before you commit to one.

How do plug-in solar panels compare to traditional solar panels?

Solar panels are available in different types and configurations, with plug-in models soon to hit the UK (following huge popularity in other parts of Europe). But while they all work by capturing the sun's rays and turning them into energy to be used around the home, there are significant differences.

Purchase price

Although plug-in panel kits are not yet available, it's expected that they will have a considerably smaller price tag than rooftop solar panels.

'A full plug-in kit is expected to cost around £400 to £500 and will be available in a range of shops, including Lidl and John Lewis,' explains George Penny, solar panel and energy expert at The Solar Co.

On the other hand, a full rooftop installation of solar photovoltaic (PV) panels starts at around £5,000-7,000. Including a solar battery and any bird deterrents could add to the cost.

Installation

A huge difference between solar PV and plug-in solar panels is the installation process.

'Traditional solar panels are professionally installed on a roof, connected to an inverter and often paired with battery storage,' explains Charlie Findlay, Managing Director at Mole Energy. 'Plug‑in panels are much smaller, usually 1–2 panels rather than a full array and are designed to be quicker to install with minimal disruption. They don’t replace a full solar installation, but they can offer a simpler entry point into generating your own renewable energy.'

As well as being installed at height, traditional panels are hardwired into your home's electric, both of which should be tackled by a qualified professional. On the other hand, plug-in solar panels are designed to be mounted on fences, sheds or balconies instead and can be plugged into one of your home's electrical sockets, which means they can be installed on a DIY basis for free. However, if your home has old or faulty wiring, then plug-in solar panels could be dangerous, in which case it's a good idea to get your electrics checked by a qualified electrician first.

Energy generating capacity

While the purchase price and easy installation of a plug-in solar panel kit will be hugely appealing to many, it's worth managing your expectations as to how much electricity it can generate.

'A 400W plug-in panel in a reasonably sunny spot might generate around 300–350 kWh per year,' explains John Collett, Director at Quantum Renewables. 'It won't transform your bills the way a full 4kW rooftop system can,' he says, 'but with a payback period as short as four to five years, for renters in particular it's a compelling option that simply hasn't existed before.'

Impact on energy bills

With such a difference in how much electricity plug-in solar panels can generate compared to their PV counterparts, there is also understandably a big variation in how much you can reduce your energy bills by.

'In terms of savings, the government estimates a typical household could knock between £70 and £110 off their annual electricity bill,' says George Penny of plug-in solar panels. 'That works out to a payback period of about four to five years, after which the power you generate is essentially free for the next 15 years or more.

'With savings of £110 per year, this would essentially mean that after an initial £400 outlay, plug-in solar panels could save consumers £1,250 on their energy bills over a 15 year period.'

However if you are a homeowner looking for more substantial savings, conventional solar panels may be a more suitable route. 'A full rooftop system saves you more, with a typical 3-bed house with 10 panels and a battery saving up to £1,700 a year, but you’ll face a longer period of time to break even on that much bigger upfront spend,' adds George. 'For those that are renting or someone in a flat without direct access to, or ownership of, their roof, saving a hundred quid a year on a £400 outlay is a perfectly decent return, especially when you can take the whole system with you when you move.'

FAQs

With the threat of rising energy prices looming, taking steps to reduce how much energy you need to buy from the grid now could help you better deal with price rises down the line.

While reducing energy wastage around the home is always a good idea, another option is to generate more of your own electricity at home with solar panels. But solar panels can be hugely expensive to install and aren't suitable for those who live in flats or rental properties.

However, with the news that plug-in solar panels are now available to buy in the UK harnessing solar power to reduce your energy bills is set to become easier and more affordable than ever before. That's why it's worth understanding how this tech actually works to see if it could be the right option for your home. I asked the experts exactly what plug-in solar panels were, how they work, and how they differ from solar panels.

What are plug-in solar panels?

While all types of solar panels will take energy from the sun and convert it into electricity for your home, more traditional panels will need to be hardwired into your home's electrics, which will need to be done by an electrician. Plug-in solar panels, on the other hand and as the name suggests, don't need to be hardwired and can instead be plugged straight into a socket.

'Plug-in solar panels are compact, self-install kits that connect directly to a normal wall socket, rather than hardwiring them into your home’s electrics,' explains George Penny, Solar Panel and Energy Expert at The Solar Co. 'They can be thought of as the entry-level version of solar, typically just one or two panels with a microinverter that turns the sun’s energy into usable power for your kettle or TV.'

Kits will 'typically include one or two panels, a micro-inverter to convert DC to AC power, and a plug that feeds electricity straight into your home's circuit,' adds John Collett, Director at Quantum Renewables. 'They're already hugely popular in Germany and the Netherlands, and the UK is now catching up.'

By using a plug-in solar panel, you will be able to generate some of your own electricity, and reduce how much you need to buy from the grid, bringing down your monthly energy bills.

How do plug-in solar panels actually work?

Unlike more traditional solar panels, which are designed to sit on your roof, plug-in solar panels can instead be installed on balconies, fences, garden sheds or external walls. For maximum benefits, you'd ideally install them on a south-facing structure. Once placed, they simply need to be plugged into one of your home's plug-sockets (either an indoor socket or a weatherproofed external outlet).

Once set up, the solar panels will capture sunlight and convert it into a direct current (DC). But in order to use the power through your home's sockets, the direct current will need to be converted into an alternating current (AC). This is where the microinverter comes in.

'When the panels generate electricity, that power is fed straight into the home and used by appliances running at the time, helping to reduce the amount of electricity drawn from the grid,' adds Charlie Findlay, Managing Director at Mole Energy.

There may also be ways to store the energy they generate, if European set ups are anything to go by. In Germany, Lidl recently launches a solar battery to work with plug-in solar panels, so there is a chance this kind of tech may soon be available in the UK too.

How are plug-in solar panels different from traditional solar panels?

While plug-in and more traditional solar panels both convert energy from the sun into electrical power to be used in the home, there are some sizable differences.

Upfront costs and installation

Traditional solar panels can cost thousands upfront to buy and have professionally installed which prevents them from being a feasible option for many. Plug-in solar panels, however, are likely to be much more affordable, costing hundreds rather than thousands.

The costs and complexities associated with solar panel installation are also removed with a plug-in solar kit, which can be set up on a DIY basis. 'The big difference from a conventional rooftop system is that there's no scaffolding, no structural work, no MCS-certified installer required, and no grid connection paperwork, explains John Collett. 'You buy a kit, attach the panel to a balcony railing, south-facing wall, or flat roof edge, plug it in, and it immediately starts reducing what you draw from the grid. They make solar accessible in a way it simply hasn't been before.'

How much energy they generate

Another huge difference between a conventional solar panel system and plug-in solar panels is how much electricity they generate.

'A standard rooftop solar installation is hard-wired, professionally designed around your property, and can generate several thousand kilowatt-hours a year,' explains Kian Milroy, Renewables Electrical Engineer at Heatable. 'Plug-in solar is much smaller, probably under 800W, and it's designed to chip away at your background daytime electricity use rather than power a whole home. Think fridges, routers, devices you leave running during the day.'

Charlie Findlay adds: 'They don’t replace a full solar installation, but they can offer a simpler entry point into generating your own renewable energy.'

How much you can save on your energy bills

If you want a sizeable reduction in your electricity bills, it's unlikely that you will achieve that with a plug-in solar panel kit. Instead a more traditional set up, including more panels and a solar battery, may be better suited.

Plug-in solar panels are much more likely to offer a smaller reduction in bills by reducing how much electricity you buy from the grid.

Who are plug-in solar panels best suited to?

While plug-in solar panels won't suit every home, they do provide the ideal solar solution for some circumstances and properties.

These include:

• Renters who don't want to make permanent changes to a property
• Those who live in flats or apartments with balconies
• Those with tight budgets could benefit from some savings by using plug-in solar panels
• Those who want to try out solar before committing to a permanent installation.

Can UK homes use plug-in solar panels yet?

Now that the government has updated key legislation, plug-in solar panels are now legal in the UK, but you need to make sure you only buy those that are compliant with the updated regulations. All compliant models are listed on the ENA Type Test Register.

'The government announced in March 2026 that it plans to update the grid code and wiring rules so sub-800W systems can plug into a normal domestic socket without needing an electrician,' explains Kian Milroy.

However, plug-in solar panels could pose a danger if connected to old or faulty electrics.

'If a property has older electrics, it's genuinely worth getting a qualified electrician to check the wiring before buying anything, even once the legislation lands,' adds Kian. 'The government's direction of travel is clear, but buying before the framework is in place is a risk people should understand.'

Be honest. Do you turn your counter-top kitchen appliances off when you're not using them?

Like many people, I like to think I'm pretty good at saving energy at home. I've dealt with draughts, use radiator reflectors and I'm meticulous at turning lights off when I leave a room.

However, I've got to admit I am terrible at turning my kettle, microwave and air fryer off at the wall when I'm not using them. And according to the Energy Saving Trust, I'm wasting £45 a year on my energy bills by leaving appliances on standby instead of turning them off properly.

In a bid to form some habits that people with consistently low energy bills have, I asked the experts about the vampire appliances that sit on kitchen counters that should be turned off when not in use.

1. Kettle

'Your kettle is the biggest energy consumer when it comes to counter-top kitchen appliances, costing £105.45 per year based on average usage,' says energy expert Ben Gallizzi from Uswitch. 'Bad habits drive these costs up even more, with 68% of households admitting to boiling more water in the kettle than needed, costing an extra £38 a year on energy bills. Almost three quarters (72%) also reboil the kettle when forgetting to use the water the first time, adding £56 annually.'

I do my best to only boil the water I need in order to use my kettle in the most energy efficient way, but I never think to turn it off at the wall when I'm done.

Even if I upgraded to one of the best kettles around, if I don't unplug the kettle when it's not in use, I'm wasting energy and paying more on my energy bills than I need to. According to data from Electric Radiators Direct, leaving your kettle in stand by mode will cost an additional 41p per month, or £4.97 a year.*

2. Air fryer

Air fryers are hugely popular with those looking to embrace a more energy-efficient way of cooking. I've been using mine on a regular basis for the last six years, but while I love that an air fryer is cheaper to run than an oven, I don't love the idea of how much energy I'm wasting by leaving it on standby mode.

According to Electric Radiators Direct's data, leaving my air fryer plugged in when not in use is costing me around 32p a month, or £3.89 a year.*

3. Slow cooker

Similar to air fryers, slow cookers are another counter-top culprit for wasting energy when they're not actively being used, also costing 32p a month just in standby mode, or £3.89 a year.

'Putting something into standby mode is not the same as totally switching off a device or unplugging it. You’re only really putting the device to sleep,' says energy efficiency expert Stephen Hankinson from Electric Radiators Direct.

'This means that it will be drawing out some electricity in the background, which is where the phrase ‘vampire device’ comes from.  

'It sounds so simple but switching your appliances off at the wall really is the best way to ensure you’re not spending your hard-earned income on keeping things in standby mode.'

4. Microwave

My microwave has a digital display, which means it's constantly using energy 24/7, regardless of whether I am cooking or not. And considering my oven also has a digital display and I wear a watch, realistically, I don't need to be able to tell the time from three different sources every time I step into the kitchen.

So I'm definitely going to start turning my microwave off at the wall. By doing so, I'll save myself 40p per month in unnecessary energy use, or £4.75 a year*.

5. Coffee machine

Now I'm not a coffee-drinker myself, but I do understand how investing in one of the best coffee machines is a great way to kick your coffee shop habit in favour of something more cost effective.

But while you might be saving on your daily beverages, leaving your coffee machine plugged in when you're not using will eat into those savings you are making — 16p a month, or £1.97 a year*.

This might not seem like much in isolation, but when you add it together with other appliances you might also be leaving plugged in, and beyond the kitchen, it quickly tots up to a more significant amount of money you are paying in wasted energy.

What can happen if you don't switch off these kitchen appliances?

While leaving these appliances switched on at the plug uses energy unnecessarily, it could pose further risks to your appliances and your safety.

'Turning appliances off standby will help protect your equipment in case of a power surge, which can occur after a storm or power cut,' explains Ben Gallizzi. 'Surges can damage electronics, so taking the time to turn them off standby can help avoid costly repairs in the long-run.

'There is also a key safety element to turning kitchen appliances off standby. While the risk is small, electrical faults can occur and cause house fires. While it may not be essential for everyday use, if you’re going away for extended periods, it’s worth unplugging countertop appliances like kettles, toasters, coffee machines.'

How to turn off your appliances

In many cases, switching off your appliances will be as simple as flicking the switch on your plug socket and pulling the plug out of the wall.

However, not all plug sockets are easy to reach on a regular basis. In which case using a smart plug, like the Tapo P100 (4-pack, £27.20 from Amazon) may be a better solution. This is also an option if, like me, you know you will forget to turn them off.

*based on data from Electric Radiators Direct and an average electricity price of 27p/kWh.

With four of us in the house, the dishwasher is often in use. Between juggling work and after school clubs, meal times can sometimes feel rushed, so we end up resorting to using the dishwasher at least five times a week.

The good news is that dishwashers are actually more eco-friendly than handwashing dishes. So I'm already part way there!

However, as energy bills have remained high over the past few years, it has been my mission to find new ways to save energy around the home, which will have a positive effect on our energy bills. Better still, if they are quick 10-minute energy fixes. And that’s meant doing a bit of research around the settings on our dishwasher to see which is most energy-efficient, and therefore cost-effective.

Why I switched from the standard to the eco setting on my dishwasher

Around a month ago, I made the switch to using the eco setting on our dishwasher in a bid to save energy.

The eco setting on my particular Hisense dishwasher takes around 1 hour 10 minutes longer than the standard setting, and a total of 3 hours 41 minutes. So it’s natural to assume that the eco setting would use more energy than the standard.

However, after doing some research I realised that because the eco cycle washes dishes at a lower temperature — often around 45° to 55°C instead of 60° to 70°C — it actually uses less energy. And as a result, making the switch to eco is an easy way to lower energy bills.

‘Although the run time can be a lot longer, it is estimated that this setting could reduce your water usage by up to 25% and electricity usage by 33% (based on 260 cycles in one year) due to pumps running for longer instead of heaters,’ says Natasha Payne, heated laundry and dishwasher expert at AO.

‘The biggest bonus of all, is that the total average savings for UK households can amount anywhere between £20 – £50 per year if they regularly use eco mode.’

Do my dishes still come out clean?

Initially I was concerned that the lower temperature might mean the dishes weren’t as clean as before. But so far that has not been the case.

When using the eco cycle, dishes are soaked and rinsed for longer which means dried-on food softens and breaks down before being washed away.

Modern dishwasher detergents are designed to work as effectively in lower temperatures too, using enzymes that target grease, starch and proteins. These enzymes actually work best over longer contact times, which is why eco cycles can still deliver a thorough clean.

Having said that, there are limits to the eco cycle, and a hotter wash is still recommended in certain situations.

For instance, I still use a hotter cycle for items such as roasting trays with heavily baked-on grease, as the hotter, more intensive cycle fully breaks down the fat. For health reasons, it’s also safer to use a higher temperature wash for items such as kitchen chopping boards or utensils that have been in contact with raw meat.

But for general, everyday cooking and normally soiled dishes, for me, the eco setting works just fine.

What impact has it had on my energy bills?

As yet, switching to the eco cycle hasn’t had a huge effect on my energy bills, but that’s because the daily and weekly savings aren’t particularly noticeable. However, over time, the savings should build up.

The eco cycle on my dishwasher uses 0.87kWh of energy. At my current electricity rate of 25.40p per kWh, this works out to be around 22p per cycle, or £1.11 a week if I run it five times.

The standard setting uses more energy, up to 1.4kWh per cycle, depending on factors such as the room temperature and load size. This works out to be around 35.6p a cycle, or £1.78 a week.

That’s a difference of around 67p a week, or around £35 a year, simply by switching between eco and standard settings. So overall, it’s a pretty decent saving for no extra work.

A further benefit of using the eco cycle is the amount of water I save. The eco setting uses 11 litres of water per cycle, while the standard setting can use up to 20.5 litres per cycle. And with that fact that water bills have just gone up, that’s another saving I will happily make.

As someone who writes about saving energy for a living, I like to think I'm pretty good at practising what I preach. But when life gets busy, it's all too easy for measures to reduce my energy bills to get pushed further and further down the to-do list.

While I've rectified the energy-wasting decor mistakes I've been making for years, I know there is always more I could be doing to save energy at home.

And there's one thing I've been putting off for ages, and I'm horrified to discover that over the course of a year, it's been costing me £100s in wasted energy. The one thing? Draught proofing.

How much could I save by draught proofing my home?

According to the Energy Saving Trust, draught proofing around doors, windows and floors could save around £85 a year on energy bills, while draught-proofing an open chimney (obviously while the fire is not in use) can save an additional £60 a year.

Addressing draughts can also mean your home is more comfortable at a lower temperature, so you could also save around £90 a year just by turning the thermostat down a single degree.

That all tots up to a whopping £235 a year spent on wasted energy.

I'm fortunate that my floors and windows aren't really an issue, but I have definitely spotted gaps around my front door (near to where my thermostat is) that could have contributed to higher-than-necessary energy bills over winter. While I don't have a traditional chimney, there is a flue from my capped-off fireplace that whistles on a windy day, suggesting a draught.

And the good news is that in my case, resolving these problems is easy and inexpensive. I'll just need some draught excluder tape for around the door (£5.99 from Amazon) and a magnetic fireplace draught blocker (£11.63, Amazon).

However, older houses with more significant issues with draughts may need more extensive draught proofing with the help of a professional. It's also important not to draught-proof to the point of negatively impacting effective ventilation, which is key for a healthy home and moisture control.

For me, now feels like the ideal time to tackle these issues. While many people wait until the winter to address their draughtproofing needs in order to keep the heat in, I want to get it sorted now to help keep the heat out in summer. Every little bit will help reduce the need to resort to energy-hungry air conditioning!

I'm not ashamed to say that I love my dishwasher and it's easily one of the most used appliances in my home.

But with energy prices potentially going up in the summer, I do want to make some easy changes now that may mean saving energy, and therefore lowering my energy bills, down the line. Plus I write about how to save energy at home for a living, so I do like to practice what I preach, like not using my tumble dryer for a month to see how much I could save.

And so I challenged myself to forgo using my dishwasher for the entire month of March and instead resort to handwashing all of my dishes. While I started off well, and undoubtedly saved myself some money in the process, by the end of the month I was definitely counting down the days until I could use my dishwasher again.

This is why.

How much money did I save by not using my dishwasher?

Switching to hand washing instead of using my dishwasher saved me just under £9 over the course of March. For a bit of context, I have a Beko DIS16R10 integrated dishwasher that I tend to use on average eight times per week. I work from home, so I have dirty crockery and cutlery from breakfast, lunch and dinner, and like to put the dishwasher on each evening. Depending on how much needs cleaning, and whether I've been entertaining, I may run it more often or if I don't have a full load, I'll hold off until the next day.

Over the course of the week, I'll use either the Eco setting, Quick & Shine or Intensive mode depending on how dirty the dishes are. For the sake of working out how much energy I saved by not using my dishwasher, my best estimate is that I use the intensive setting twice a week, and the other two modes three times a week each.

According to the instruction manual for my dishwasher, this is how much energy each of the programmes uses, and how much each cycle costs based on the April 2026 energy price cap for electricity (which is 24.67p per kWh):

And so each week, with three Eco programmes, three Quick & Shines, and two Intensive, my dishwasher costs £2 to run, and over the course of the month of March, that adds up to around £8.86 per month. Over the course of a year, that tots up to more than £106.

Was the saving worth it?

While the thought of saving more than £100 on my energy bills over the course of the year is definitely appealing, the reality of switching to handwashing completely, for me, is not.

Firstly, ever since childhood, I have had a bizarre aversion to certain kinds of foam which extends to things like bubbles from washing up liquid. And that meant I hated every second of actually doing the washing up (but I'm a grown up, so I persisted).

Secondly, combine that aversion with a lack of motivation especially after a particularly yummy and filling dinner (where I'd seemingly used every single pan and pot I own) and I'd quickly find myself with a stack of dirty dishes on the side, which I hated. If I got distracted after entertaining friends of family, I'd go into the kitchen just before bed and be faced with the dreaded stack, and then feel like I wouldn't be able to sleep properly until I'd scrubbed my way through it.

Frankly, I'd willingly pay £9 a month to avoid that.

Thirdly, I felt like I was washing up all the time. Even with a brilliant Scrub Mommy sponge (£7.49 for two at Amazon) in tow, Fairy Skip the Soak Power Spray (3.86, Amazon) at hand and a brand new pair of washing up gloves (£2.85, Amazon) to keep my bubble ick at bay, I very quickly got sick of even more washing up stacking up.

Lastly, the dishwasher was right there. I'd gone to the expense of buying and installing the dishwasher and it seemed like a waste not to use it. And on those nights where there was a mountain of stuff to be tackled and a severe dip in my enthusiasm, I was definitely tempted to use it 'just once'.

While I'd stuck to the challenge I'd set myself, I don't think this is an energy-saving measure I would adopt long-term. Plus, there's the cost of water to consider. When comparing the water cost of running a dishwasher to handwashing, dishwashers actually come out cheaper.

I could actually be more energy efficient when it comes to the setting I use when I do need to run the dishwasher. I've recently realised the cycle I never use could actually be the key to lower energy usage.

However, if the dishwasher was costing significantly more per month to use, then it's highly likely I'd feel differently, and the potential cost saving would massively outweigh the inconvenience of handwashing.

I've been doing my best over the last three years to improve the energy efficiency of my home. But while I've tackled some big jobs like replacing my conservatory roof for something insulated and swapping my old boiler for a newer, more efficient model, I know I'm making some mistakes when it comes to my home decor choices that are not doing me any favours when it comes to my energy bills.

As someone who writes about how to save energy at home for a living, I do my best to share all the changes and habits to adopt to become a person with consistently low energy bills.

But as a homeowner myself, I also understand that embracing some of these tips can require paying for things upfront or making lifestyle changes that can both take time. So I do my best to change what I can when I can, especially if they don't cost anything.

And now it's time to address these decor mistakes that have been making my home feel colder, which means I've been tempted to put the heating on for another hour.

1. I have thin curtains in some rooms

I've opted for blackout curtains, like these from £15 at Dunelm, in the master bedroom and living room, and highly rate their ability to keep my home a comfortable temperature, meaning I am less likely to resort to an extra hour on the heating in winter (especially when I follow Martin Lewis' 4pm rule), or using my air con for longer than necessary in the summer.

However, I haven't got blackout or thermal curtains or blinds in any other room, which feels like a mistake. According to the Department of Energy and Climate Change, around 18% of heat loss occurs through windows. While having any sort of curtain up will help, my thin curtains didn't feel like they were doing much to help over winter and I potentially missed an opportunity to turn my thermostat down a degree and save around £90 a year on my energy bills (according to the Energy Saving Trust). And with summer fast approaching, I know they won't do much to keep the heat out, which means I'll likely have fans or my air con running longer than I perhaps need to.

2. I don't have many rugs

Next up is rugs. While I have a rug in the hallway and one in the living room (that I've actually decided is too small), the fact that I have hard flooring on the entire ground floor of my home, including my home office and kitchen diner, which could be contributing to wasted energy.

According to the Energy Saving Trust, 10-20% of heat is lost through the floor. While I'm fortunately to not be in an old house with suspended timber floors where this heat loss can be most noticeable, the reality is that walking around my home on the hard floor can make me feel cold. And that feeling means I'm all too tempted to turn on my electric heater, or stick the heating on for an extra hour.

To put a price to that, let's say I used an electric heater, like our top rated Morphy Richards HeatFlux Ultra Thin 2kW Ceramic Tower Fan Heater, to boost the heat in my home for an hour every day for the six months between 1 October and 31 March. Based on current energy prices under the April 2026 energy price cap, the cost of running the electric heater would be £89.80.

If I, instead put my central heating (powered by a 24kW boiler) on for an additional hour a day, that would cost about £1.38 per day, and would tot up to £250.72 over the course of the six colder months.

While some homes will need proper floor insulation to solve their cold floor issues, for me, it's much more of a case of either wearing slippers, (I have these £21 slippers from Next that do the job), whenever I'm walking round, or investing in a couple of additional rugs or runners.

3. I leave blinds slightly closed on sunny days

While 2026 has had a very soggy start to the year, the sun is starting to make a regular appearance. And this is definitely an area where I'm missing a trick for lower energy bills.

I've got sensitive eyes, so I regularly tilt my blinds or partially close the curtain in the room I'm in if it's too bright. I also hang things in the windows in a couple of rooms in my home. But that means I could be missing out on one of the major benefits of solar gain — free heat. This again could mean I use my heating or an electric heater for a blast of heat during the day when I potentially don't need to. Even if we only had sunny days for a third of the time between 1 October and 31 March, I could potentially save around £90 by reducing the thermostat by a single degree, up to £250 by not using my central heating for an hour at lunchtime each day.

Instead, I'm going to move into a different room if the sunlight gets a bit too bright and leave the curtains open to benefit from as much solar gain as I can until temperatures are regularly in the high teens. Once temperatures start rising further, I will start strategically closing the curtains at different times of the day to keep my home as cool as possible.

I'm also going to find an alternative spot for my window hangings to maximise the solar gain over the next couple of months.

Thinking about other ways I could reduce energy wastage, I could also follow fellow energy saver Rachel and switch to a smart kettle too.

It's also time I finally tackle a simple task to avoid wasting energy unnecessarily.

Working from home (as I do) comes with a raft of benefits, such as saving money on commuting costs. But it has also meant that I'm using more energy than I would if I were in an office, which means higher energy bills.

So that means I do what I can to save energy at home, and try to make energy savvy choices. And I love making quick 10-minute fixes that can have a real positive impact on my energy usage. One habit I initially hadn’t paid much attention to was how often I was boiling the kettle. My husband and I both work from home and between us we drink around eight to 10 cups of tea and coffee each day - often at different times. This means the kettle is pretty much constantly being boiled throughout the day.

After watching my smart meter turn red every time the kettle was switched on, I decided it was time to invest in a new kettle, a smart one with a keep-warm feature, to see if it would reduce our energy bills in any way. I ended up plumping for the Xiaomi Smart Kettle 2 Pro (£43.99 at Amazon). While it was a bit of an investment, I was hopeful it would save me money in the long run.

Why did I opt for a smart kettle?

The switch to a smart kettle made sense because my husband and I boil the kettle several times a day and we don’t always use it particularly efficiently.

I can fill my smart kettle with water, boil it and then keep the water warm for a few hours, so there’s no worry about using more water than I need or wasting energy.

Plus it’s convenient to simply top up my mug straight away, rather than waiting around for the kettle to boil each time I want a cuppa.

How does the smart kettle help reduce energy usage?

Different to a conventional kettle, smart kettles keep the water it contains at a set temperature, so you don’t need to regularly boil the water from scratch, reducing the amount of energy consumed.

Once the kettle has boiled, you simply select the temperature on the kettle screen or through an app, and the water remains at this temperature for as long as you need it. While the most cost-effective way to use a kettle is to only boil the water you need, with a smart kettle, you could boil a full kettle once, and use less energy to keep it warm (than bring it to the boil).

‘Smart kettles are the next generation of electric kettles, equipped with Wi-Fi or bluetooth connectivity that allows them to be controlled remotely through an app on your phone,’ says Scott Byrom, energy expert at The Energy Shop.

‘Your standard kettle simply boils water to 100ºC every time, whereas a smart kettle introduces precision settings and automation that helps tackle the biggest sources of energy waste in the kitchen.’

With my kettle, the keep-warm temperature can be set between 40ºC and 90ºC, making it ideal for different drinks. According to the UK Tea & Infusions Association, the ideal water temperature for brewing is 90-98ºC for black tea and around 80ºC for green tea.

What difference has it made to my energy bills?

As much as I was hoping for a sizable reduction in my energy bill, the reality is the savings have been a lot smaller. But at a time when energy prices could start to creep back up, even small savings count.

My previous kettle used around 3kW of electricity, and boiling half a kettle of water took around a minute and a half. My current electricity rate is 25.40p per kWh, working out at roughly 1.9p a boil. Using it six times a day would cost about 11.46p.

By contrast, the new smart kettle consumes 1.5kW of electricity, but it takes longer to boil. Half a kettle of water takes around 2.5 minutes to boil, costing about 1.6p a time.

On its own, this doesn’t save much, but the difference comes from the keep-warm function. This uses around 30W of electricity, costing around 0.76p an hour. If I keep the kettle warm for three hours a day, that’s around 2.29p.

Because I am not waiting for it to reboil each time, I tend to boil the kettle only three times a day, rather than six. That brings the total cost to around 7.09p - a saving of around 4.4p a day, £8 for the six months I've been using it or £16 a year compared to my old kettle.

Those savings are potentially boosted by no longer overfilling the kettle and boiling water I won’t use.

‘If your household boils the kettle 10 times a day and habitually overfills by just one cup each time, that wasted energy adds up considerably over a year, reaching up to £40 - £50 annually,’ says Scott.

Was the kettle worth it?

While the savings aren’t huge, there are other benefits to having a smart kettle. For a start, it means I can grab a quick cuppa after the school run without hanging around waiting for the kettle to boil. It’s also useful when we have family over who often ask for hot drinks at different times.

Overall, I don’t regret buying a smart kettle. But whether it’s right for you will depend on your situation. If you work from home and the kettle is always boiling, a smart kettle has its benefits. But if you only boil the kettle a couple of times a day, the savings you could make are unlikely to be worth making the switch.

In other methods of reducing how much gas and electricity I use, I'll make sure I'm not making any energy-wasting decor mistakes that are costing me money without realising it. I could also follow the example Sarah Handley (Ideal Home's Home Energy Editor) and see what happens if I stopped using my dishwasher for a month.

The Government has announced that ‘plug-in’ solar panels could be available in shops within months, as they step up their efforts to help household to cut their energy bills.

The announcement came last week (23rd March) alongside new rules to make solar panels and clean heating standard in new homes. The ''plug-in' solar panels are directed at current homeowners as an affordable alternative to installing solar panels.

Solar panel installation can be a huge expense, with brands such as E.ON Next quoting £4,995 as the starting rate for a small solar system. 'Plug-in' solar panels, in contrast, are easy-to-install alternatives that can be plugged into an ordinary plug and mounted on fences or balconies.

These 'plug-in' solar panels are already widely used in households across Europe. In Germany, they are commonplace, with half a million new devices plugged in per year. They involve no installation cost as they are simply plugged into a household socket, and then the free solar power can be used directly through a mains socket like any other device.

Current UK regulations prohibit this type of solar panel from being plugged into household sockets, but legislative amendments are set to come into force on 27 August 2026. But the government has said it is working with retailers like Lidl and Iceland, alongside manufacturers such as EcoFlow, to change this and make them available to the UK market, soon after.

Georgina Hall, Corporate Affairs Director at Lidl GB, said: 'At Lidl GB, we are committed to making sustainable living affordable for everyone, and we welcome the government’s move to modernise regulations in the UK. Updating the regulatory landscape for this ‘plug-and-play’ technology is a positive step towards empowering British households to manage their energy costs and support the nation’s net-zero ambitions.'

'Cutting red tape on plug-in solar is an encouraging move, and we will help ensure it works alongside, or as part of, whole-home solutions that genuinely empower people to take control of their energy use and cut bills,' Chris Norbury, Chief Executive of E.ON UK, added.

The i Paper has reported that Sainsbury’s, Currys and John Lewis are some of the other companies considering supplying the panels in stores if regulations change. The plug-in panels cost around £400, and the Government estimates a typical UK home could save £70 to £110 a year on their energy bills with one, so they should pay for themselves in about 4 years.

While they are more affordable than the cost of a standard solar panel system, they also produce less energy as they're significantly smaller, so you'll need to carefully consider whether plug-in solar panels or a traditional rooftop installation will better suit your home. The positioning of the panel is also important to ensure it's getting the maximum amount of daylight to work efficiently.

Energy Secretary Ed Miliband said of the new rules implementing the future homes standards building regulations: 'The Iran War has once again shown our drive for clean power is essential for our energy security, so we can escape the grip of fossil fuel markets we don’t control.'

'Whether through solar panels fitted as standard on new homes or making it possible for people to purchase plug-in solar in shops, we are determined to roll out clean power so we can give our country energy sovereignty.'

So if you've been considering solar panels, but couldn't afford the installation, in a few months, a cheaper alternative could be landing in the middle of Lidl. You may also be able to get a solar battery to go with them.

With the looming threat of rising energy prices hanging over our heads, it's the ideal time to cut energy wastage and ensure you are only paying for the energy you actually need.

While it's not yet clear when exactly energy bills will go up, and how much by, acting now means you have the best chance of limiting the impact of any potential increases.

And for the most meaningful and positive impact on your own bills, take inspiration from what those with low energy bills always have.

1. They use smart heating controls

Investing in smart heating controls is a good idea to save energy at home. They'll allow you to control your heating room by room, ensuring you don't waste money by heating rooms that you don't that often to the same extent that you heat the rooms you use most regularly.

'Installing a robust set of controls, including a programmer, a thermostat and thermostatic radiator valves can save up to £110 a year*,' says Martyn Bridges, Director of External Affairs at Worcester Bosch. 'For even more assurance, why not install a smart thermostat? A smart thermostat is connected to an app, turning your phone into a remote control allowing you to manage your home heating from anywhere. You can also control your heating zonally, ensuring you’re paying to only heat the rooms you need to.'

*Figure correct as of July 2025, source: Energy Saving Trust