One of my biggest bugbears when it comes to my driveway is how easily it can go from looking nice and neat to an absolute mess.

I have a part tarmac and part gravel driveway, and it does have it's positives in that it provides an additional off-road parking space, is good for security, and is inexpensive to replenish when it needs it. But the gravel goes everywhere. Whenever it's parked on, the gravel moves around, and I feel like I'm constantly sweeping loose gravel from the public path back on to the driveway to keep things looking neat.

But after spotting my neighbour's new gravel driveway, that doesn't seem to move a muscle even when it's parked on, I was curious as to hers seemed so much lower maintenance than mine. So she told me her secret — gravel grids.

While my gravel sits on top of a weed membrane, like this heavy duty version from Amazon (£25 for 50m), it has no method of containment. Combine that with the fact my driveway is sloped, if it's not a parked car it's foot traffic across the gravel that makes it move around. It's a bit of a downside of this particular driveway material.

Conversely, my neighbour's gravel sits neatly in a gravel grid, meaning it doesn't move around, even when she's driving over it. There's also enough gravel on her driveway that you can't see the grid, so on the face of it, it' just looks like a beautiful, and tidy, driveway. My dream.

Gravel grids work by interlocking grids that form a sort of egg-box structure. Once they are installed, you apply the gravel over the top and manoeuvre it into the holes made by the grid. This prevents the gravel from moving around, keeping it in place. If you use enough gravel, the grids are invisible.

Once finished, the driveway is strong enough to be walked and driven on, and the gravel will stay put.

While I'd previously looked into resurfacing my driveway (I love the look of a resin driveway, but it's not the most affordable option). So now I'm in research mode as to how much it would cost to install something like this on my own driveway.

First I'll get quotes from local driveway companies, then I'll look into how feasible it would be to do on a DIY basis. But as I'd need to remove all of the existing gravel, ensure the base is level before installing a new weed membrane, the gravel grids (which may need to be cut to size), and then the gravel, it may be best that I leave it to a professional.

Summer brings with it a whole host of things to love – long, lazy evenings in the garden which, with any luck, might be in bloom, maybe a trip to the seaside, ice lollies galore..

That said, they are also some downsides to summer – the hot sticky nights that can disrupt a good sleep, buzzing creatures everywhere and, in some cases, the damage hot weather can do to our homes. Tarmac driveways are a good case in point here. While they have much to offer homeowners looking for a low-maintenance and affordable option, they do not always perform so well in a heatwave, with melting being one particular problem.

If this is something that is worrying you, or that you have already started experiencing during the recent scorching temperatures, help is at hand.

Why do tarmac driveways melt in summer?

As driveway materials go, tarmac has to be one of the least needy, yet they are not infallible, and you might start to see signs of driveway damage. Fluctuations in temperature can cause cracks to appear and, if the base wasn't constructed correctly, they can also buckle under the weight of very heavy vehicles.

If you have ever driven abroad, you may well have noticed your tyres sticking to the tarmac on the road a little, or noticed shiny melting patches – but what causes this?

'Tarmac driveways are made up with bitumen that tends to soften in high temperatures,' explains Daniel Wickham, owner of First Impression Driveways. 'This becomes more likely if the tarmac surface is either old, badly laid or sees heavy usage – all while being in direct sunlight.'

What are the signs of a melting driveway?

It doesn't matter whether you have a block paved driveway or a tarmac design, with any summer driveway damage, spotting and fixing the issue as soon as you can is key to ensuring it doesn't cause you too much of a headache.

Given that tarmac tends to soften once temperatures hit around 50°C, you might assume that this won't be a problem here in the UK. However, dark materials absorb heat readily and many driveways sit in direct sunlight – plus ground temperatures are higher than air meaning it is not unrealistic in extreme heat, that a tarmac drive could reach this figure.

"The big red flags are soft patches, tire marks, scuffing, indentations, or when the surface starts to look uneven or distorted," warns Daniel Wickham.

What can you do to prevent a tarmac driveway from melting?

Just as you can prepare your driveway for winter, so too are there steps you can take to make sure it doesn't suffer too much in the summer heat.

Eamonn Turley, a car and road trip specialist at Road Smiles, has some tips on protecting a tarmac drive from the heat. 'Keeping up with regular maintenance – such as sealing when required – protects the bitumen from oxidation and UV degradation which accelerates softening overtime. Proper driveway drainage is important too, since standing water increases the breakdown of the surface between hot days.'

'The issues can be avoided by building the driveway from the start with above standard techniques, using appropriate materials for your driveway and the volume of traffic you expect,' adds Daniel Wickham. 'During extreme heat, it also helps to avoid placing undue stress on the surface, like turning wheels when not moving and leaving heavy vehicles in one spot too long.

'Of course you could always install a brand new tarmac driveway with better quality asphalt materials and have it installed by a good contractor – that would definitely improve how well it lasts through hot spells,' adds Daniel.

What should you do if your tarmac driveway melts?

If your driveway has begun to shows signs of softening in the heat, there are several steps you should take to address the issue.

According to Eamonn Turley, a considered approach is best, rather than rushing in trying to put the problem right. 'When a driveway has softened or become 'sticky', I wouldn't recommend fixing it right away. It's better for traffic to be kept low until the weather cools.

'Since damaged tarmac becomes weaker when heated, driving or turning wheels on already-damaged tarmac can easily cause additional problems,' continues Eamonn. 'When temperatures decrease, an expert can be brought in to evaluate what needs to be done to fix the area. In some cases driveway resurfacing might be required, while in others, the sub-base might need to be repaired or rebuilt.'

Finally, Eamonn has some words of reassurance for worried owners of tarmac driveways. 'Temporary softening due to a heat spell doesn't mean total failure. That said, if cars continue to park or manoeuvre on the soft spots, those areas may begin to develop rutting and scuffing, which will likely stay when temperatures return to normal.'

FAQs

Do resin driveways melt in high temperatures?

There are not many disadvantages of resin driveways – they offer great stability, come in a huge range of design options and, in the case of resin bound driveways, which are permeable, won't require planning permission. But how do they respond under extreme heat?

The good news here is that, provided you have specified a UV-stable resin system, melting should not be an issue. That said, experts agree that in very hot weather, the surface may become a touch more pliable, meaning minor scuffing could occur when tyres are turned on it.

It is worth looking at all the options before deciding on a driveway material. Check out the pros and cons of gravel driveways as part of your research – they are an excellent, affordable choice that also happen to look beautiful.

The warmer weather is with us once more, meaning you may well be spending more time outside. While being able to enjoy the exterior spaces around your home feels like a treat after the gloomy weather that seems to have dominated just lately, it can also mean you become more aware of those areas that require a little TLC.

One of the first things people often notice once the gloom clears is that their once-perfect driveway ideas are not looking so hot. Driveways have to deal with all kinds of things – not least the fact that they must withstand the weight of vehicles and deal with all kinds of weather conditions, including heatwaves. For this reason, they do require a level of maintenance in order to ensure peak performance, as well as boosting the kerb appeal of a house.

While winter brings all kinds of challenges for driveways, so too does summer. And with another heatwave looming, I asked the experts for the signs of damage to be on the lookout for, what they mean and how to put them right.

What are the main signs of driveway damage in summer?

Once the warmer weather hits, there are several summer home maintenance jobs that it can feel less daunting to tackle.

As you check your house for how it has fared over the winter, your driveway should be one area you pay particular attention to.

Daniel Wickham, owner of First Impression Driveways, explains the main signs of damage to be on the lookout for. 'The main signs that show driveway damage during summer include soft or scuffed tarmac, cracks, loose blocks, sink holes – along with sunken areas – and weeds growing through joints or to the edges.'

1. Tarmac starting to soften

With temperatures seemingly set to get ever hotter here in the UK, tarmac softening is becoming a more common problem.

Sue Taylor, director and product expert at Complete Construction Products, explains what to be alert to if you have a tarmac driveway. 'Surface softening can definitely be a problem for tarmac driveways. This normally happens when the bitumen binder that holds tarmac reacts to higher temperatures. When this happens the surface becomes more flexible, which can make the driveway feel slightly tacky underfoot and even cause cars to leave tyre marks and indentations when parked.

'Surface softening is usually linked to higher temperatures and, on older driveways, this tends to be more noticeable because the material has already started to age and lose some of its original strength,' continues Sue. 'You can’t really reverse softening, but applying a suitable surface sealant can help protect against further weathering and reduce how quickly the surface deteriorates.'

2. Cracks that have widened

Depending on the driveway materials you have, the odd crack in the surface is to be expected over time, but in certain instances, they can indicate that action is required.

'Cracks usually develop due to general wear and tear that comes from a mix of ageing, UV exposure, water ingress or movement beneath the driveway,' explains Sue. 'The key with tackling cracks is timing.'

'For really small hairline cracks a surface sealant can sometimes be enough if the damage is still early. For more severe ones (5–10mm and bigger), it is definitely worth using a suitable tarmac crack filler or bitumen-based repair products. Just be sure to clear out any debris or water, fill it fully and smooth it level with the surface for the best results.'

While cracks may well be harmless, Freya Chapman, residential lead at Mainmark UK, is keen to explain that they can point to something more serious. 'Cracks that appear suddenly and widen over time may indicate that the ground beneath the surface is shifting. Subsidence is one issue that often gets overlooked and could become a major and costly issue if not addressed. If subsidence is suspected, a professional assessment is essential.'

3. Patches that appear to have sunk

This is potentially a more serious issue – dips in the surface, or areas that appear to have sunk. In some cases, this can be down to making driveway mistakes during installation.

'You might notice dips or patterned grooves in spots where vehicles are regularly parked. This is known as 'rutting' and is usually a sign that the surface is struggling to cope with repeated weight and pressure,' explains Sue Taylor. 'This is often seen in older driveways during summer months as heat and age start to affect the performance of the binding materials and it tends to happen when the weight of a vehicle starts to place stress in a particular spot where the surface is already slightly softened or weakened. You commonly see it where cars are regularly parked or turned in the same position. Heat can make this more likely in summer because the surface can become a bit more pliable but it’s usually a combination of temperature, construction quality and just use over time.'

Sue goes on to explain how to rectify the issue. 'Minor rutting can sometimes be improved with localised patching or driveway resurfacing, but more severe cases will often need deeper repair or full resurfacing to properly restore the surface. However, if you're seeing widespread cracking in multiple spots, rutting, deep sinking areas or large sections breaking apart it's always important to ask for professional advice. In those situations the issue is likely to be a lot deeper which means that just repairing the visible damage will be unlikely to solve the underlying problem. If the problem is spreading or affecting the actual structure of the driveway then working with a professional team will always give you the best results.'

4. Loose materials on the surface

Whether you have a tarmac, block paved or even resin driveway, if you notice loose materials around the edge or on the surface, this is a sign to take action.

'If bits of aggregate are starting to chip off the surface it's often a sign that the binding materials that keep everything together are starting to break down and lose strength,' explains Sue Taylor.

'If noticed early then patch repairs or surface treatments can help slow the process,' continues Sue. 'However, if the breakdown is very noticeable and widespread then resurfacing or overlay work would likely be needed to properly restore things and stop more material being lost.'

FAQs

What are the signs of driveway subsidence?

Being aware of the signs of subsidence is so important, both when it comes to inspecting your house, as well as your exterior spaces.

'Driveways are often one of the first areas where homeowners may notice the early signs of ground movement or subsidence,' picks up Freya Chapman.

Along with cracks, Freya says there are some other signs to be on the lookout for. 'Other warning signs include sections of the driveway sinking, uneven paving, pooling water or gaps forming between the driveway and the house, garage, or property boundary.

'The first step is to monitor the issue. Take photos, measure cracks, and note whether they are changing over time,' continues Freya. 'It is also important to check for possible causes, such as leaking drains, poor drainage, tree roots, or water running towards the property rather than away from it. Water is one of the most common contributors to ground instability, particularly where soils are prone to shrinkage or erosion. If subsidence is suspected, a professional assessment is essential.'

Can you repair a driveway on a DIY basis?

By undertaking driveway repairs on a DIY basis, you could save some money, but is it such a good idea?

'Some basic work, such as weed removal or re-sanding of the joints with block paving, may be undertaken yourself, however anything more involved such as sinking, widespread cracking, softness and instability should been reviewed by a qualified professional,' says Daniel Wickham.

'I would say it definitely depends on the specific problem and the level of severity,' adds Susan Taylor. 'Some issues can definitely be addressed on a DIY basis, for example small cracks, localised damage and patch repairs can usually be tackled with the right products and a bit of preparation.'

When my partner and I bought our hodge-podge half cottage-half 70 bungalow house, we had a list of things we knew we wanted to change. But as any renovator will know, you have to start with the urgent issues, such as rewiring, new plumbing and a new bathroom, and leave more aesthetic changes for a later date.

Happily for us, we’re now three years into our renovation have tackled the core issues, which means we’re now able to make optional changes to boost our home's kerb appeal. One of those changes was to update the exterior of the 1970s single-storey extension with an integrated garage.

The previous owners had used clad the structure in a concrete stone replica, which really jars against the natural stone of our cottage. I also feel like it dates the house in a negative way and, while I’m a big fan of keeping mid-century charm just as much as historic features, this definitely needs an upgrade. So, when it came to our home's exterior cladding, we went with timber, balancing our shoestring budget with maximum kerb appeal.

This is how we did it.

Step 1: Securing planning permission to reclad our garage

Of all the things to know before cladding your home, the planning rules are arguably the most important. In many cases, cladding will fall under permitted development, but that is not always the case, so it's crucial you check with your local planning authority before you make changes.

Our house is in a Conservation Area and so we don’t benefit from most of the Permitted Development rights that other houses do. This includes our ability to change the appearance of the house. So, when we applied for planning permission to make alterations, such as replacing the windows, creating a new driveway and installing rooflights, we included our proposals for recladding the front elevations.

From the street, our house can be visually split into three sections: the two-storey cottage, the pitch roof extension that runs adjacent and the flat roof extension at the back, which includes the garage.

Our idea was to create changes that visually ‘zone’ the exterior, so the original stonework of the cottage is being repointed in lime, the pitched roof section will be rendered in lime (in-keeping with the village we live in), and, we'd reclad the flat-roof section with timber.

Fortunately, planning permission was granted with minimal fuss.

Step 2: Setting a budget for the timber cladding

There are lots of different types of cladding, and while timber cladding is generally considered to be a great option for those on a budget, in reality, the costs can escalate quickly once you consider quality, longevity and maintenance. I knew we had to find a happy medium, so we opted for untreated larch for £445 including delivery, battens and corner pieces. Additional materials, such as stainless steel nails, cement screws and a rodent mesh were another £30.

We didn’t get any quotes from contractors to do this job, because we were both fairly confident we could tackle it on a DIY basis, but I would expect costs of around £200 per day to get someone in to do it for us.

We had many of the tools we needed already, but if you were starting without, I would definitely recommend a mitre saw, like this Einhell mitre saw (£89.99 from Toolstation) and a plunge/track saw, like this Draper plunge saw (£159.99 at Toolstation), as they saved us so much time and effort cutting the pieces to size.

Step 3: Installing the cladding

First things first, we installed battens to the concrete ‘stone’ of the garage using corrosion-resistant masonry screws, a tricky venture when working with an incredibly uneven profile, but we managed to get them square. The battens are primarily to secure the boards on to the wall, but they also provide an essential ventilation air gap so the wood doesn’t go mouldy during the winter.

We didn't need to use a weatherproof membrane as the garage was already watertight, but before doing your own cladding, I would recommend double checking that before you start.

Starting from the bottom, we used stainless steel nails to secure the boards, overlapping the next board up to give the shiplap effect. One of the best decisions we made was scouring the internet and local saw mills to source horizontal planks that would stretch the length of the garage with no joins or cuts. Not only did this make our lives a million times easier during installation, but it also looks so much neater.

Unfortunately, we couldn't install the cladding right to the bottom on the wall and had to stop at the line of the damp proof course to prevent rotting. So, after the timber was in place, I used an external masonry paint in a dark green colour to visually push back the lower section of the wall. We also installed a special mesh designed to keep pesky rodents out of the cladding along the bottom, but you can't see it at all.

How do I feel now it’s finished?

The process took a couple of days for a 15m2 area, so if you’re thinking of doing a similar job, then I would put aside a long weekend — 3-4 days should do it.

Once the first couple of boards were on, I was initially concerned about the colour of the larch as it had a bit of a pink tint that definitely wasn't the look I was hoping for. I did worry we'd made a mistake for a good few weeks, but trusted the weathering process. Now a year on, I can happily say the weathering is toning those hues down nicely as the wood silvers with age.

I would definitely try cladding again and think most people and novice DIYers could give it a go, especially for the savings.

We’re not entirely done with the exterior renovation just yet and need to do the lime cladding on the rest of the house, but as a start, I’m delighted with it!

Trends regularly change and evolve – and this goes even for exterior house colours. As homeowners start to favour new shades, other house colours are going out of style in 2026.

If you’re planning on giving your home’s facade a colourful makeover this year and are looking for some house exterior colour ideas, as well as what shades not to go for, I’d recommend steering clear of the once extremely popular soft yellows, magnolias and beiges.

‘There’s a real sense of familiarity and comfort in those creamy beige and soft yellow tones that have been a staple on British homes for decades,’ says Marianne Shillingford, creative director and colour expert at Dulux. ‘They were loved for being easy, warm and reassuringly “timeless”, which made them a go-to choice for exteriors.’

But in 2026, that’s no longer the case.

Why are these colours going out of style?

In the last couple of years, colour trends have been shifting towards more expressive and attention-grabbing tones, moving away from the previously favoured soft neutrals.

‘As our relationship with colour has become more confident and expressive, those custard-like shades can now feel a little flat and dated. Today, people are looking for colours with more depth and nuance – shades that respond to the light and bring a sense of design intention to the outside of the home, rather than simply blending in,’ Marianne at Dulux explains.

She adds, ‘As more of us start to view the outside of our homes as an extension of our personal style, there’s a real confidence emerging in colour choices. The exterior is no longer an afterthought – it’s one of the most transformative and accessible ways to elevate kerb appeal and create that all-important first impression.’

What’s replacing them

While earthy shades, deep burgundy tones and soft blues are reigning home decor trends this year, the biggest exterior house colour trends aim to stand out by going much darker.

‘We’re seeing a rise in bolder, more architectural shades. Deep charcoals, inky navies and complex dark neutrals which bring an immediate sense of sophistication and design intent, while still feeling timeless. They highlight the structure of a property beautifully and add a sense of drama without overwhelming it,’ Marianne reveals.

While I’m personally not the biggest fan of dark greys or charcoal, I’m all for deep blue houses! And these would be my top picks if I were to paint the exterior of my house (if I had one, that is).

Marianne at Dulux concludes, ‘These shades offer depth, elegance and versatility, and they shift gently with the changing light throughout the day. It’s this combination of impact and longevity that’s inspiring people to be braver, and to see exterior colour as a powerful tool in creating a home that feels considered from every angle.’

There are so many things you can do to enhance the kerb appeal of your home – ensuring you choose the right style of windows and front door, tidying up your driveway and front garden, and painting woodwork being just a few. However, if you really want to zhuzh up the appearance of your house, building a porch has to be one of the best ways.

Not only are porches practical additions, adding somewhere to shelter from the elements while rummaging for front door keys, or even providing storage for outdoor footwear in some cases, but they can also add character and another dimension to a facade.

Of course, much of this depends on the design of the porch and, in particular, is hinged on getting its size just right – too big and it could overwhelm, opt for small porch ideas that are too tiny and they'll be dwarfed. With this in mind, I am here to explain how to ensure your porch is the perfect size for your home and requirements.

Is there an ideal porch size?

As with so many aspects of house design, there is not a one-size-fits-all solution to porch size – or to porch ideas in general for that matter. The right approach is always going to be a tailored one, as Elizabeth Assaf, co-founder and designer at Urban Front, explains.

'The size of the porch is important in terms of what it is protecting,' says Elizabeth. 'If it's just to protect the door then I would say it should extend to the front by at least 1m to 1.5m and at least 500mm on each side.

'However, some porch canopies are smaller so you would only be protecting the top of the door or someone standing at the door from the rain,' continues Elizabeth. 'It's important to remember that rain can be horizontal too which is why when considering the size you should consider what it is you are protecting.'

Is there a standard porch size?

Porches are most often custom made, designed and constructed to suit the house that they are being added to meaning there is no standard size as such.

That said, it is possible to buy 'off-the-shelf' porches and canopies. These are usually lightweight structures and, unlike more sturdy designs that are constructed on-site, won't require foundations. Many are often possible to install on a DIY basis too.

Sizes of these types of porch vary, but expect widths from 1.5m up to around 3m. Given that most standard front doors are sized at just under 1m (762mm-915mm generally), this makes sense.

What are the right dimensions for your porch?

The real question should not be 'what is the perfect porch size?' but 'which is the best size of porch for my home?' Just as when it comes to selecting the right size of windows, getting the proportions of such a prominent feature wrong can totally ruin the overall look and kerb appeal of a house.

'The proportions of the main house are a great starting point when deciding your porch design – the width of the elevation and the height of the eaves and ridge on the house for example,' advises Merry Albright, creative director at Border Oak. 'A too wide porch on a narrow home might feel too dominant, but equally a skinny porch on a long facade may look a bit minimal and unbalanced.

'Another crucial consideration should be keeping the traditional porch proportions, almost regardless of the main house, as the porch will be something you judge on its own merits too,' continues Merry. 'A wide porch with a flattened ridge and reduced roof pitch will always look a bit odd, but a vernacular proportioned oak porch will always look right, even if the host house isn’t classically proportioned. If you get these hand crafted details right the porch will look amazing, and will bring you joy every day. There aren’t many architectural features that you get so close to every time to come home or leave.'

'It does really depend on the style of the home, what suits the front elevation, if there is enough space for it and if it's adding any value,' agrees Elizabeth Assaf. 'I don't think there is 'too big' – just what suits the house and doesn't look ridiculous! I am a lover of a 'big enough' porch – the kind you see that wraps around a home and provides a large area before you open the door and enter, even somewhere to sit.'

How big can a porch be without planning permission?

Before getting too carried away with your design ideas it is important to investigate whether or not porch planning permission will be needed.

'In the UK, a porch can usually be built without planning permission if it meets the permitted development limits,' explains Elizabeth Assaf. 'The external ground area should be no more than 3m2 and the structure must be no higher than 3m. It also needs to be set at least 2m back from any highway boundary or boundary of your home.'

Additionally, it is worth noting that if your house is listed or within a conservation area or other designated zone, permission may well be required. And, if you have already extended your home significantly, you might need to apply for permission to build your new porch.

How big can a porch be without needing building regs approval?

Another thing you need to know before installing a porch and determining its size is that, in some cases, building regulations may apply.

According to Planning Portal, providing your porch is less than 30m2 and is built at ground floor level, there is no need to apply for building regulations approval.

Sizes aside, to be exempt from building regs, your porch must also feature compliant glazing and electrical installations – and it will need to be separated from any habitable rooms with a door too.

FAQs

What is the difference between a porch and a door canopy?

Both porches and canopies can work well for different types of properties and budgets – but what's the difference between a porch and canopy?

'A front door canopy provides cover and protection, usually by sitting directly above your door and giving an overhang which projects from the front of a building. This overhang, depending on its size, can offer beneficial shelter against rain, sun and wind,' explains Elizabeth Assaf. 'A bit like an umbrella for your door.

'A porch, on the other hand, is often more enclosed – it can have sides, pillars or windows but it can also be a completely enclosed space with a door of its own,' continues Elizabeth. 'A door that is set well back from the front face of the building but with an open front, might be considered a type of porch/canopy hybrid. If you are building or renovating from scratch, this type of front door protection is useful to plan into your design.'

If you are the owner of a porch that has seen better days, it is well worth looking into how to make a porch look more expensive. There are some brilliant ways to elevate this all-important feature that need not cost a fortune.

When we bought our higgledy-piggledy renovation project I had a giant list of the work the work needed. One of the list items was replacement windows for the 1970s extension, which actually makes up the majority of living spaces.

The windows were cracked single glazed units with a cottage style frame splitting the glass into tiny panes. Initially we had hoped that since this section was not the adjoining 1700s stone cottage we could get away with using high quality uPVC windows in a heritage style.

However, as our home is in a Conservation Area, we quickly found this wasn’t the case. And so began an almost eight month battle, which ended up with us having to go with a option that cost us almost three times as much. This is why.

What does it mean that our house is in a Conservation Area?

There are Conservation Areas up and down the country; they are special designated zones in areas of historic interest. The general gist is that these areas no longer have the usual rights to permitted development, which allows other houses to build extensions, replace windows, make alterations (within certain criteria) and so on without local authority approval.

In a Conservation Area, even minor changes to the front of a property, like changing windows or adding cladding, need planning permission from the local planning department. Although some homeowners chance it with the view that no one will find out or hope that they can seek retrospective planning permission, this can cause huge issues down the line and it is technically a criminal offence.

Fortunately my partner and I are absolute sticklers for the rules anyway, plus we may eventually need to leave the area, and so we were diligent in including as much as we could in our planning application to maximise our chances of approval.

Although we were both keen to renovate and maintain the timber windows of our 1700s stone cottage, our1970s extension single glazing was a prime target for improving our energy efficiency and comfort in the house.

We hoped that, as the extension itself was inappropriate for the area, uPVC replacement windows might be approved, especially if they were in a heritage style that suited the rest of the village (and we've spotted lots of other local homes that have uPVC windows, even in their stone cottages).

The heritage-style windows we were keen on included details that are not often included in more modern-looking uPVC windows, including an astragal bar (a decorative feature applied to the interior and exterior surfaces to give the appearance of divided panes of glass), textured wood effect, bevels. Plus they offer replication of original functions (such as sliding sashes), which help them feel more inkeeping with an older property.

Unfortunately, this was nearly immediately rejected by our local planning department. Our desired uPVC windows were definitely a no-go.

As a result we needed to research timber alternatives that would be a lot more acceptable to the planners.

‘Timber is preferred and in many cases required simply because traditional materials are more in keeping with the historic setting,’ explains Theo Jones, Director at Fynn Architects. ‘Conservation areas and listed buildings are protected precisely because of their character, and windows are one of the most visually prominent elements. It's nicer to look at and nicer to touch, and I believe it's worth paying a little extra for, regardless of whether you're in a conservation area or not.’

Sadly, these timber options were going to be significantly more expensive.

Why were the timber windows so much more expensive?

By their very nature wooden windows are always more expensive than uPVC due to the cost of the raw materials and craftmanship required. Fortunately, I had set aside a large chunk of money from the sale of our old house that we could use in case the application for uPVC replacement windows was rejected.

In terms of cost differences, our initial quote for uPVC heritage-style flush casement windows was £7,738 from a local company and £16,051 from a national brand (this also included three patio doors). When the planning officer insisted on timber for our replacement windows, the national brand quote shot up to £29,594, almost twice as expensive. Although the local heritage uPVC company didn’t offer timber, another local supplier provided a cost of the timber windows at £24,656. Our almost 8k had tripled to 24k. Not a position anyone wants to be in.

Even though that cost increase smarted at the time, I do accept that timber windows are a significantly better material for our home and that will (hopefully) last for another 100 years.

‘Although timber typically costs more when installed, wooden window frames significantly increase property resale value and save money in the long term due to their extended lifespan and energy savings, which usually offset the higher costs over time,’ comments Joe Buckley, Founder of Heritage Joinery.

How we coped with the increase in costs alongside our other renovations

After years as a journalist covering all aspects of self build and renovation, and an experienced renovator, I was well versed in local planning policy and my partner and I had anticipated that the uPVC windows may be rejected. But we were hopeful, considering we were surrounded by other homes (still in the Conservation Area) with new heritage uPVC windows.

Just in case, we had already sought quotes from our local joiners for timber windows so we had partially come to terms with the additional cost and what this could mean for the rest of our renovation budget.

For those in a similar boat, I would still advise trying to get permission for uPVC replacement windows, especially if the cost of timber is well out of your price range.

However, although they cost significantly more, to say I’m delighted with our timber windows is an understatement. Knowing they can be refurbished and repainted when the time comes to give them another few decades of life is really encouraging for the rest of our renovation works. Plus the process has definitely made us less short-sighted in terms of costs versus what is best for the house as a whole.

Pivot doors can be a great alternative to traditional side-hung doors that you normally see at front and back entryways.

They may exude elegance but they’re actually a fairly simple mechanism that can instantly improve your home's connection to the outside world, while also adding some real wow-factor to your home's appearance. Plus they can be a great alternative to bifold doors.

But what do they cost, do they need an oversized opening or specialist installation, and are they suitable for to swap out when replacing any front door? I asked the experts to help you decide if this could be a stylish option for your home.

What actually is a pivot door?

Unlike standard doors that open using a side hinge, pivot mechanisms are set further into the door span at the top and bottom of the frame to support a large weight and size of leaf. They can be chosen to open either internally or externally, depending on your space availability and when opened there is a small gap to the side of the pivot, in addition to the usual walkable space.

High-end architects and designers began to utilise the grace and simplicity of pivot doors in domestic homes to add an extra wow-factor around a decade ago. 'In the past pivot hinges were used for very heavy doors and may still be needed for very very oversized doors but now most doors suitable for residential use can be either pivot or hinged,' explains Elizabeth Asaf, Designer at Urban Front. 'Pivot doors are also being used internally, too, to create a stylish divide between spaces.'

What are the pros and cons of pivot doors?

While pivot doors perform much of the same function as a regular side-hung door, they do offer some aesthetic and practical benefits.

First, their design means they can often bear the weight of a wide, heavier door, which might suit certain house styles better than others. Many contemporary, industrial or barn-style house designs use pivot doors to create a statement entryway.

When used at the rear of a house in place of a patio door, sightlines can be reduced which helps to create highly-desirable uninterrupted views of the garden,

However, this style of door can be more expensive than a side-hung door, although as they are becoming a more mainstream option this price is gradually reducing.

Pivot doors also require larger openings than side-hung doors to accommodate the same size of passageway when open. 'We get asked a lot for pivot doors to fit into openings which are too small,' comments Elizabeth Assaf. 'The best part of a pivot door is the way it opens but due to this the walkthrough is reduced and therefore the opening should be over 1.2m wide. If the outside area doesn't have enough space for the door to swing open into then that could be a restriction too.'

How to buy a pivot door

If you’ve got the space and it fits your style, you can buy pivot doors from most high-end door manufacturers, but they haven’t yet filtered down into the more high street retailers. Additionally, they’re generally only available in timber or aluminium so if you’re looking for a uPVC door they might not be for you.

In terms of cost, as these doors are usually made bespoke or at least with specialist installation, you’re looking at a higher price than if you were to buy a side-hung door. 'At Urban Front our pivot doors start from £6019 + VAT for a RAL painted door,' says Elizabeth Assaf, 'I believe it may be possible to buy good quality pivot doors in aluminium from about £4000.'

How are pivot doors installed?

If you do decide that a pivot door is the right option for your home, then you will need to understand how the installation process works. Installing a pivot door is a little more specialist than a traditional door and will require additional attention to detail in specification before the doors arrive on site.

Firstly, it is advised to have an opening clearance space of at least 1.2m, but ideally more to ensure a comfortable entryway that can also be accessible by wheelchair users.

If you are building an extension, then this could be easily incorporated into the design plan, but if you are remodelling an existing door opening, then there will be additional building work required to expand the original aperture.

The structure around the doorframe might need to be reinforced if the door leaf is particularly oversized and, as pivot doors tend to have a completely level threshold, the drainage immediately outside the doorway may need to be improved to avoid water ingress.

FAQs

Can you have a pivot door as a front door?

You can certainly install a pivot door as a front door. In fact, they create an immediate impact and kerb appeal upon opening which suits modern-styled homes. Pivot front doors are usually designed with an oversized pull bar handle that drops the length of the leaf to give extra purchase if the door is particularly oversized.

How long should a pivot door last?

A pivot door should last just as long as any well-made, good quality door - anything upwards of 25 years and ideally 40+. Pivot doors are normally made of aluminium which has a much longer lifespan than uPVC, but they can also be made using timber, which will last even longer, so long as it is properly maintained (through sanding and painting/weatherproofing every few years).

If you're still undecided about installing a pivot door at your home, then make sure you also weigh up whether bifold or sliding doors might be a more suitable option instead.

It is often the original features that draw people to older properties, lending them character and charm that can be lacking in modern houses. Windows, in particular, are one of those elements of any home that will make or break its kerb appeal – all too often, original windows get replaced or updated in a totally unsympathetic way.

Many people don't realise that it isn't just the frame style and material that contributes to the look of a window, but the types of glazing used within them too. It is understandable to want to select glazing that will reduce heat loss, but when it comes to older windows, homeowners can find it hard to pinpoint the right solution.

If you are considering double glazing old windows but are unsure how this will affect their appearance – or if it is even possible – this guide is for you guide. As an experienced renovator and owner of an old house myself, I explain the pros and cons of making this upgrade and what the job entails.

Can you double glaze old windows?

If you are living in or renovating a period property that has its original windows in place, they may well be fitted with single glazing. While this type of glazing has a certain beauty about it, with its slight imperfections and rippling, it is not always the most comfortable to live with.

'Single glazing is one of the biggest sources of heat loss in homes,' reveals Becky Lane, CEO of home energy upgrade company Furbnow.

Terry Hill, MD at KLG Rutland, shares some other benefits of replacement glazing. 'Upgrading your period home’s windows and doors with modern replacements brings a host of long-term benefits including, improved energy efficiency, better security, reduced maintenance and possibly noise reduction,' he says.

While you can, in theory, fit double glazing into some older windows, is upgrading from single to double glazing always such a good idea?

'Sometimes the frames simply cannot handle it as many older timber sash and casement windows were not designed to withstand the weight or thickness of modern sealed systems,' warns Andrew Haydon, director at Simply Plastics.

Will double glazing old windows ruin their character?

Even if, after investigating whether or not the frames of your old windows are up to the job of carrying the weight of double glazing (something a skilled joiner should be able to advise you on) you find you can go ahead with the task, there is still the small matter of appearance. In short, will switching out your single glazing for double in a bid to make an old house warmer spoil the look of your windows?

'Double glazing older types of windows does make sense in some homes, but it may not always be the best option, particularly if the original joinery and detailing are still present and if the window proportions, glazing bars, and traditional putty lines are contributing to both the exterior and interior of the property,' explains Andrew Haydon.

'Retrofitting double glazing can disrupt glazing bars, sightlines, and frame proportions, which often takes away from the original appearance, especially where fine details are part of a window’s character rather than decoration alone.'

What are the alternatives to double glazing for older homes?

If your windows are not suitable for double glazing, or you have come to the conclusion that adding double glazed units would ruin their character, you still have options that can help keep your house feel warmer and reduce your energy bills.

'A better alternative in these cases is secondary glazing, which allows you to keep the original window precisely as it is,' says Andrew Haydon. 'This method works by installing a separate pane on the internal side of the existing window, often fitted into its own narrow frame.

'When installed internally, secondary glazing keeps the original window intact and fully functional for ventilation, cleaning, and later repairs,' continues Andrew. 'This allows you to perform routine maintenance without interruption, remove panels during the warmer months if necessary, and still reach the original glass without the need for specialised tools. It also helps reduce draughts, which in turn limits heat loss and lowers energy use by preventing heating systems from working harder than necessary – in fact, it can even enhance daily comfort to a level that is comparable to double glazing.

'And, finally, because of the larger air gap between panes, sound control is improved so it’s also frequently used in residences close to busy roads, train lines, or town centres. When combined with draught-proofing and some basic repairs, rooms will feel warmer, quieter, and have less condensation without replacing or ruining windows that still have many years of use left.'

Is it better to replace old windows rather than upgrade the glazing?

There are cases where original windows will just be in too bad a condition to make restoration a viable option. In these cases replacement windows will be needed but this should only really be a last resort and needs to be done with great care – changing windows can, in some cases, totally strip a period house of its character. This will also usually be a more expensive route.

That said, if you take the time to research the options and find a joiner who can match the originals, replacement doesn't have to be a disaster.

'Replacing windows or doors in a period property doesn’t mean losing its soul,' reassures Terry Hill. 'With a sympathetic design such as heritage ranges, flush sash or modernised vertical sliding windows and professional installation, you can preserve your home’s historic charm and character while enjoying the comfort, efficiency and security of modern living.’

FAQs

Do you need planning permission to double glaze old windows?

Whether or not you will require planning permission to upgrade your windows very much depends on your house and the area you live in. In many cases, there will be no need to apply.

However, if you live in a listed building, you will almost certainly require listed building consent in order to make any changes. Additionally, if your house is located in a conservation area, you may also need to seek permission.

'If your home is listed or within a conservation area, certain restrictions may apply to how windows and doors can be replaced,' explains Terry Hill. 'Reputable installers should work closely with homeowners, local authorities and heritage officers to ensure compliance with conservation area regulations, listed building consent and building regulations for energy efficiency, ventilation and safety.'

'If you have a Victorian or period home these often have architectural features protected by heritage conservation rules,' picks up Becky Lane. 'You will need to work with conservation officers and heritage experts to choose a solution that preserves the character of the house – and consider reversible techniques that can be easily undone if necessary.'

If your home already has double glazed windows, or you are adding an extension, you might well be looking into double vs triple glazing. It is well worth checking out the pros and cons of each before making a decision as, in certain cases, making what can be an expensive swap won't be worth it.

According to the Met Office, the UK has had an 'exceptionally wet' start to the year, with some locations seeing 40 consecutive days of wet weather.

While this can feel pretty miserable, this heavy rainfall can also wreak havoc with our homes, highlighting any vulnerabilities in the property's shell, leading to signs of leaks and water ingress. Left unchecked, this can lead to long term issues of damp and condensation that can be costly and time consuming to resolve.

That's why it's important check for signs of water entering your home during periods of heavy rain so that the issue can be rectified before too much damage is done. I asked the pros about the kind of damage heavy rain can cause, the signs you should look out for, as well as why your roof might have started leaking.

What kind of damage can heavy rain cause to a property?

'Heavy rain rarely causes problems on its own,' explains Sam Fitzgerald, founder of the Federation of Damp. 'What it usually does is expose weaknesses that were already there. This could be a small defect in roof coverings, blocked or overflowing gutters, failed seals around windows, or underlying ventilation issues inside the home.'

Extreme rainfall will also test your home's water resilience, revealing vulnerabilities in roofing, walls, and foundations says architectural designer and owner of Online Drawing UK, Chris Lawson: 'Saturated soil can push against basement walls, resulting in seepage or cracks. Poorly maintained brickwork and pointing can allow moisture to penetrate, leading to internal damp and plaster damage.

'Windows, doors, and external joinery are also susceptible, particularly if seals have degraded over time. Repeated exposure to water can weaken timber elements and promote the growth of mould and mildew. Beyond visible damage, water can undermine insulation and electrical systems, creating both comfort and safety hazards.'

This damage can be extensive so it's crucial that you keep your eyes peeled for early warning signs so that you can tackle them before they get too bad.

What are the warning signs of water ingress?

There are a few tell-tale signs that you should look out for, both inside and out, during and after heavy rain that will give you an indication that something untoward is going on.

Inside

• Brown water stains on ceilings and walls
• Peeling paint or wallpaper
• Pooling water on window sills and around skirting boards
• Unusual musty smells
• Sudden onset of condensation

'After heavy rainfall, homeowners should look out for water marks on ceilings or walls, drips, musty smells or a sudden increase in condensation,' says Sam. 'These are often signs of an issue that has been developing quietly over time and needs proper investigation, rather than a quick cosmetic fix.'

Outside

• Sagging guttering
• Persistent drips after the rain has stopped
• Dark patches on brickwork
• Green algae on your home's exterior walls

How to fix damage caused by heavy rain

'Solutions vary depending on severity: patching and resealing small leaks may suffice, while more extensive damp may require re-plastering with damp-resistant materials or installing proper drainage channels,' advises Chris. 'Monitoring these areas immediately after heavy rain allows homeowners to act before the problem escalates.'

While some issues may be easily resolved on a DIY basis, such as failing sealant around a window frame, water marks on the ceiling (once the source of the leak has been found and rectified) or clearing out gutters, other issues, like fixing damaged roof tiles or replacing soggy loft insulation are best left to the professionals.

You could also try Nancy Birtwhistle’s hack to get rid of water marks on walls too.

Why does my roof leak after heavy rain?

In many instances, signs off water ingress in your home will stem from an issue with your roof, so regular roof maintenance is key to keep problems at bay.

'During periods of heavy rain, your roof will be right in the firing line - so it’s here that problems tend to crop up first,' says Phil Spencer, property expert and founder of the property advice website Move iQ. 'Whether the sheer volume of water falling onto the roof causes a brand new leak or just worsens an existing leak isn’t really the issue. What matters is the damage it does.

'Whenever rainwater gets into your home, whether that’s the attic or the living areas, it can cause a range of problems from peeling paint to damp, rot and mould. Over time, periods of heavy rain can also worsen existing problems like subsidence, which tends to happen when soil repeatedly gets wet and dries out.'

But it's not just the roof tiles that could be the culprit. 'Blocked gutters can also play a big role,' says James Ginley, Director of Technical Surveying at e.surv. 'When water can’t drain properly, it can back up under roof coverings or overflow down walls, creating leaks that may appear long after the initial rainfall has passed.'

'It’s quite common for older buildings to develop roof issues, ' explains Phil. 'Materials like felt and tiles slowly degrade over time, and water has a way of finding its way into any cracks or weak spots. However leaks can crop up suddenly if you lose a roof tile in a storm or repairs are done with the wrong materials.

'If you see any evidence of a leak, don’t delay. Find a local tradesperson who has experience of working on similar properties, and ask them to assess and fix the problem quickly.'

Fortunately, it's doesn't necessarily mean you'll need to replace your roof in order to solve the problem of water ingress. 'A leak in itself is not a disaster, but if you don’t deal with it promptly it can cause structural issues that may reduce the value of your home. The fix depends on the cause; it could mean replacing tiles, fixing gutters, or addressing drainage issues.'

FAQs

What should you do if you find a leak in your roof?

If you do happen to notice a leak from your roof, there are steps you can take to minimise the risk of further damage while you wait for a professional.

• Move any belongings out of the way. However, if the water is leaking on to insulation, don't move it without wearing the correct PPE otherwise it could be very hazardous to your health.
• Try to contain the water, if possible. Buckets, saucepans, Tupperware, whatever you can get your hands on will help limit the impact of the leak.
• Get photographic evidence. 'Document what you can with images or video in case you need them for an insurance claim and can also help a tradesperson diagnose the issue,' advises Alex Peters, a cost guide expert at Checkatrade.

Should you discover a lot of water damage, it's worthwhile checking whether a leak will be covered by your home insurance and whether you insurer can help you cover the cost of repairs.

We might still be in winter, but if your home has suffered with overheating during the summer, and you want to avoid it happening again this year, you'll need to find a suitable solution now.

Upgrading glazing can be one of the most expensive improvements you might make on your house. But it can also be the most worthwhile when it comes to your home's comfort levels, especially in the summer months. And so understanding the different types of glazing now available on the market will enable you to get the best product for your budget.

Whether you are thinking of adding large picture windows, a bank of new patio doors or a glass extension to your home, or are looking for a permanent solution to keep your home cool in summer, I’ve asked the experts for everything you need to know about solar control glass.

What is solar control glass and how does it work?

Solar control glass is simply a window that has a special coating that reduces the amount of solar radiation that is able to penetrate into the building. Essentially it works to keep spaces with large swathes of glazing to a comfortable temperature during warmer weather.

'Solar control glass features an advanced, microscopically thin coating on the inner face of the outer pane of glass that makes up a double or triple glazed unit,' explains Charlotte Gilbert from Morley Glass. 'This coating is composed using metallic elements which enable it to reflect and filter heat and sunlight (solar infrared radiation), reducing the amount that transmits through the glass.'

'In simple terms, it limits how much of the sun’s energy enters the room; this helps spaces stay bright without overheating, especially on large south or west-facing glazing,' adds Charles Lowe from IQ Glass.

'Solar gain is often regarded as extremely beneficial and it is considered in the calculations for the energy ratings of windows and doors as it is effectively ‘free’ passive energy provided by the sun, thus helping to keep our homes warmer naturally at cooler times of the year, lessening the demand on heating,' continues Charlotte Gilbert.

'However, it can contribute to overheating in summer. That can be a major problem, not only to our health and wellbeing, but because many people facing this issue may choose to install energy-demanding air conditioning systems to mitigate the effects – a trend that is seriously counterproductive in terms of the UK’s goal to reduce carbon emissions and combat climate change.'

Is solar control glass the same as low-E glass?

Although they might sound similar, low-E and solar control are different types of glazing. Charles Lowe advises: 'Low E glass is primarily designed to improve insulation by reflecting internal heat back into the room; this reduces heat loss in colder months. Solar control glass focuses on managing heat coming into the home from the sun; many modern specifications can combine both functions in one high-performance glazing build-up.'

Where can you use solar control glass?

Solar control glass could be installed in every window in a house, if you wanted, but due to the increase in cost, many choose to be selective and deliberate in their application of the special coating, such as on a glass extension or conservatory, large picture windows or patio doors. It might also be a worthwhile consideration if you are building an extension and want to add a roof window.

As solar control glass reduces overheating, it is best practice to determine which windows face south or west. These windows will receive the most sun throughout the day and heat the inside of your home as a result, and so will be the best for a solar control glass upgrade.

'It is most worthwhile where there are large areas of glazing, strong sun exposure, or rooms that regularly overheat; for example south or west-facing elevations, roof glazing and glazed extensions,' Charles Lowe comments. 'For smaller windows or shaded façades, the benefit can be less noticeable; it is often specified strategically rather than everywhere, balancing solar control with daylight levels and ventilation.'

'Any window or door exposed to prolonged sunshine is suitable for solar control glass, but this type of glass really comes into its element where you have elevations with large areas of glazing such as bi-fold doors, sliding doors or French doors,' adds Charlotte Gilbert. 'Think of a greenhouse – the more glass you have, the more solar gain possible, which is why it often needs to be controlled to maintain a stable climate in the home. So, for example, if you have a large span of bi-fold doors facing south west, solar control glass should be regarded not as a luxury but essential, representing an excellent investment in the long term.

'In windows and doors not exposed to strong sunlight, such as those which are north facing or shaded by trees or neighbouring buildings, it may be more appropriate to use standard low-E glass rather than solar control products. This is because excessive solar gain is unlikely to be an issue in these situations.'

What are the pros and cons of solar control glass?

As solar control glass is a specialist coating, the inclusion does often come at a higher price. While it’s very case-dependent in terms of how much it will cost, higher quality and better performance solar control glass will naturally come at a premium.

Also, some people don’t love the slight tint you do find with additional coatings on windows as well as the reduction in sunlight that does transmit into their interiors so might avoid using it for aesthetic purposes.

You might also be restricted as to which glazing supplier will be best suited to your windows upgrade

'The benefits of solar control glass for homes subjected to strong sunlight are clear,' explains Charlotte Gilbert. 'Its ability to help reduce the risk of overheating in the summer means less reliance on fans and air conditioners to cool down the home. That is energy-saving, thus contributing to a home that is more energy efficient and lower carbon, but it also means that the whole house is comfortable and usable all year round.

'But the benefits of solar control glass are not restricted to warmer, sunnier times of the year. The coating is dual purpose as it also insulates the home during winter, helping to stop heat loss through the double or triple glazed unit. That means there is little or no extra heating demand compared to standard low-E glass.'

Is solar control glass worth it?

The case for solar control glass is extremely persuasive, especially given what we know about our summers now and into the future getting warmer and higher in UV rays.

While it may not be worth the cost for every windows of every house, carefully considering it and weighing up the costs for any large swathes of glazing you might have will make your home more comfortable to live in year round.

'Costs vary depending on pane size, performance targets and the overall glazing system; solar control is typically a premium upgrade compared with standard double or triple glazing due to the additional coating technology,' says Charles Lowe. 'It is best priced as part of the complete glazing package because frame choice, safety requirements, spacer specification and installation detailing all affect the final figure.'

If you are after a budget-friendly alternative, you can buy a DIY film and install it yourself, but it can be a little fiddly to achieve a smooth result.

FAQs

Is solar control glass clear?

Unfortunately, solar control glass does generally have a slight tint to it, but it has been significantly clarified in the last decade or so. While this might not suit every aesthetic choice, many manufacturers these days so enable homeowners to adjust the tint and amount of solar radiation transmitted through the glass, giving close control over the end product.

However, a benefit of this tint could provide privacy to overlooked houses that would like to install bifold or sliding doors.

Whether you have noticed water pooling on your driveway, regularly have a waterlogged garden come the rainier seasons or are in the process of re-landscaping your home, you really should be thinking about improving the drainage on your property.

You may well have noticed a push towards sustainable drainage methods if you have been researching driveway materials, or are building an extension, with many local councils now keen to push homeowners towards solutions that reduce the risk of surface water escaping onto roads and pavements.

While many people still view sustainable drainage systems as the reserve of public spaces, increasingly, homeowners are getting on board with these methods, implementing them into their own home design, recognising not only the immediate benefits but also the wider positive impact incorporating even just elements of these designs can have. These are the options most worth considering.

What is a sustainable drainage system?

Sustainable drainage systems – also known as SuDS – are basically designed to mimic natural drainage as much as possible with the aim of reducing surface water and, subsequently, pressure on the existing sewer infrastructure. That said, many will also work to improve drainage in a garden and add something visually to your outdoor spaces too.

'Our towns and cities are at risk of flooding. In built-up areas, surface water collects quickly and can overflow drains. To put it plainly, the places we live just aren’t as ‘spongy’ as we’d like,' explains Adam Boucher, Network Operations Lead at Severn Trent. 'SuDS are Sustainable Drainage Systems. They work by diverting surface water away from sewers, slowing it down and helping our drains to cope. The great thing about SuDS is that they combine some of the latest water drainage technology with Mother Nature.'

While many sustainable drainage systems are designed for use within urban developments and commercial spaces, there are a whole host of ways homeowners can introduce them into their own homes too. By doing this, not only are they helping the wider surroundings, but can also enjoy other benefits.

Permeable paving

It might be that you are looking to refresh your driveway ideas, or that you are constructing a new drive completely from scratch – whichever it is, this is one area that sustainable drainage will often be a requirement.

'A lot of local councils now push Sustainable Drainage Systems, so they’re keen on permeable block paving, gravel and set-ups where water is stored and allowed to soak away slowly rather than racing into the drains or flooding the road,' explains Jack Hamer, managing director at Silvermere Landscapes. 'Nine times out of 10 on a typical domestic driveway in Surrey we will be designing the falls and drainage so that all the surface water stays within the plot. We will either ensure it either soaks away or runs into a suitable drain that’s allowed to take it.'

Using permeable materials also means that planning permission for a driveway won't usually be required, as well as ensuring the area doesn't end up full of puddles during periods of heavy rainfall.

Shop permeable driveway materials

Soakaways

Another simple sustainable drainage option for homeowners is a soakaway, a method of taking excess rainwater away safely and prevent flooding, both on driveways as well as in gardens.

'Soakaways are considered a form of Sustainable Drainage System (SuDS), which are encouraged under both national and local planning policies,' explains David Iddon director at DTS Property. 'A soakaway is a subsurface drainage system that allows rainwater and surface runoff to percolate back into the ground, helping to prevent flooding and overloading the local drainage system. It’s typically a gravel-filled pit or modular crate system connected to a drainage pipe that collects water from roofs, patios, or driveways.'

There are kits readily available for homeowners which contain everything needed to install a soakaway on a DIY basis and, once in place, they are barely visible so won't ruin the kerb appeal of a property.

Rainwater harvesting systems

While this might sound complicated, rainwater harvesting can be as simple as incorporating a water butt into the design of your home. By simply connecting a water butt to the guttering in order to capture rainwater run-off from a roof, you are preventing it from pooling on the ground – plus you can then use it to water your garden in a dry spell.

Other, more complex solutions, collect rainwater before directing it to a filtration system and, finally, into a storage tank. From here, depending on the type of system you have opted for, the water can be used for household tasks such as washing clothes and flushing toilets.

If you want the water to be suitable for washing and drinking, a far more elaborate system will be required.

Rain gardens

Another commonly used method of public spaces that translates beautifully into residential settings is the rain garden. This is a great way to reduce water logging, avoid the need for a soakaway and can also help attract wildlife to your garden.

'Rain gardens use plants and soil to retain and slow the flow of rainwater from surrounding hard surfaces,' explains Adam Boucher. 'They also help cool urban areas in the summer, so even when it’s not raining, they make a positive difference. '

According to the RHS, rain gardens are suitable for any garden which is relatively well-drained and that has a minimum slope of 10%.

These are basically shallow dips created in the ground ready to receive water run-off from hard surfaces and roofs. They can be planted with species that enjoy a good soaking such as flood proof plants and collect rainwater, allowing it to slowly disperse.

Do you have to have sustainable drainage?

At present you do not have to incorporate SuDS into your home, although if you are creating a new driveway over 5m2 in size and won't be using permeable materials, you will need to ensure water drains away to a suitable permeable area such as a French drain or soakaway.

Additionally, if you are building an extension, you will need to make sure you understand the building regulations surrounding dealing with excess surface water.

'When you add extra roof area or paving as part of your extension, it increases the amount of impermeable surface on your property,' explains David Iddon. 'This means more rainwater runs off rather than soaking into the ground naturally. UK Building Regulations require this additional surface water to be managed appropriately to avoid contributing to local flooding.'

This might mean incorporating a soakaway into your design, although this won't always be suitable, particularly if your property sits on heavy clay soil. Having a percolation test carried out during the planning stages will help determine the best solution for you.

What are the pros and cons of sustainable drainage?

There are many benefits for homeowners who implement sustainable drainage systems into their home – so don't just view them as boring requirements.

Pros of SuDS

• Helps reduce pooling and flooding on driveways and patios.
• Reduces the risk of a garden becoming waterlogged.
• Some systems will attract wildlife into your garden.
• Rainwater harvesting systems can cut your water bills.

Cons of SuDS

There are not many downsides to sustainable drainage, save for the fact that they do come at a cost. That said, driveway materials such as gravel and permeable block paving are not much more expensive than non-permeable materials such as tarmac.

FAQs

Are sustainable drainage systems expensive?

They don't have to be. Simple methods such as installing a water butt are very affordable. Likewise, one of the most permeable driveway materials around – gravel – also happens to be one of the lowest cost.

If you want to incorporate a soakaway, its size, location and who you choose to install it will play a part in its final cost. Expect to pay from £800 up to £2,500 for materials and labour.

Good drainage is so important when it comes to preventing damage to your home, but there are lots of other ways of floodproofing a house to consider too for a multi-faceted approach.

While it might not be one of the most glamourous aspects of your landscape design, driveway drainage is absolutely vital if you want this area to perform well, stand the test of time and, of course, do justice to the overall kerb appeal of your home.

Drainage needs to be planned in alongside your driveway ideas – the materials you choose as well as the overall design of the space you intend on using to park your vehicles and access your house all play a role here. Additionally, there are certain sections of the building regulations you'll need to adhere to.

The good news is that getting your driveway drainage spot on need not mean sacrificing the good looks of your home's approach – in fact, in many cases, it can do the very opposite, enhancing its visual appeal. We asked the experts how to get this all-important aspect just right to help you on the way.

1. Get the sub base just right

Before anything else, you need to ensure that you look at the surface your driveway will be laid on top of. This is one of the most common driveway mistakes and failure to do so could result in a driveway that looks uneven and bumpy all too quickly.

'A thin or badly compacted sub-base means dips appear over time,' explains Jack Hamer, managing director at Silvermere Landscapes. 'Those low spots are where puddles form that cause issues in winter. We tend to use a decent depth of MOT Type 1, well-compacted so the surface stays stable. Preparation is critical!'

Keep in mind that whatever type of driveway materials you opt for, some kind of crushed aggregate sub-base will be required and, if you intend on using gravel, you should also install a good weed membrane to cut down on maintenance.

2. Use attractive permeable driveway materials

Permeable driveway materials allow water to pass through and drain away and, while not always essential, in some cases they are a requirement of the building regulations.

'New or replacement driveways over 5m squared have to be permeable (allow liquids to pass through) or must drain to a soakaway/rain garden on your land,' explains Tom Polkinghorne, director at Creations Building & Landscaping.

'Permeable block paving looks just like standard block paving but the joints and sub-base are designed so water soaks through rather than runs off,' picks up Jack Hamer. 'To most people it just looks like a nice modern driveway.'

Another attractive permeable option is good old gravel which comes in all kinds of colours and designs. Team it with a permeable membrane or geotextile fabric beneath to aid with drainage. Finally, don't discount porous asphalt or a resin bound driveway.

Shop permeable driveway materials

3. Design the driveway slope carefully

Nothing is going to ruin the kerb appeal of your home faster than a driveway full of unsightly puddles – the way around this is to design your driveway with a subtle slope.

'If the driveway is too flat, or slopes back towards the house, water will just sit there,' explains Jack Hamer. 'We normally build in a gentle fall away from the property towards a drain or a soakaway.'

It is important to make sure that the slope is carefully calculated here if you want it to work as it should in getting the water away from your driveway and home.

'The drainage angle for a driveway typically ranges between 1% to 2%, or 1/8″ to 1/4″ of slope per foot,' explains Turrou Landesmann, director of trading at Drainage Superstore. 'This slope is designed to ensure effective water run-off and prevent standing water on the driveway surface.'

4. Install discreet channel drains

Channel drains are a really popular and effective method of dealing with excess water on a driveway – plus they are more affordable than some of the alternatives. They are installed to sit pretty much flush with the surface of the driveway and from there, direct the water that flows into them to wherever you choose – a soakaway, elsewhere within your garden landscaping scheme and so on.

Channel drains can be located wherever makes sense on your driveway – to either side, at its base or even in the centre. Just be sure to check the 'maximum weight load' as this determines how much weight they can support.

'Slim ACO style channel drains in a matching or similar colour to the paving can blend in really well especially if they’re laid in a straight line across the drive or around the edge of the house,' advises Jack Hamer.

5. Include planted areas in your driveway design

For maximum kerb appeal you want to try to avoid vast, unbroken stretches of the same hard landscaping material. Instead, aim to incorporate planted areas or mix and match driveway materials for a more thoughtful look. This is also a good idea when looking at improving garden drainage in general

'Drainage doesn’t have to look ugly or tacked on,' says Jack Hamer. 'A solid paved area down the middle with gravel or decorative stone down the sides looks smart and gives somewhere for water to drain. Add some low planting and it softens the front of the house and hides angles.'

If you a short on space, consider using plants that take up little of your driveway's footprint, such as neat box hedges or climbing plants – you don't have to incorporate large flowerbeds to make the space look attractive.

6. Install a hidden soakaway

If you are after driveway drainage that remains hidden from view, a soakaway is the perfect choice.

'A soakaway is an underground storage area designed to collect rainwater and allow it to gradually disperse into the ground,' explains Turrou Landesmann. 'While it’s an environmentally friendly option that will help reduce your carbon footprint, you should keep in mind that soil conditions must be suitable for efficient water absorption.'

A hole in the driveway will be dug before being filled with rubble, gravel or plastic crates designed specifically for the job. The hole will then be covered with a permeable surface material and water should be directed into the soakaway.

7. Consider fitting a French drain

French drains have many benefits. While they are the ideal way to overcome a waterlogged garden, they also work brilliantly as a method of driveway drainage.

'A French drain is a gravel-filled trench with a perforated pipe that collects water and channels it away from the driveway,' explains Turrou Landesmann. 'This is a brilliant option for driveways that are located on slopes or in areas with poor soil drainage.'

Even better, many DIYers tackle the task of installing a French drain on a DIY basis very successfully – just ensure you choose the right location for it before breaking ground.

'Choose a location for the trench that’s naturally downhill, or create your own slope by digging the trench at a 1% gradient,' advises Turrou Landesmann. 'This will allow gravity to do its part in draining the water away to your chosen destination.'

8. Opt for a resin driveway – but choose carefully

For anyone after a low-maintenance driveway material and a crisp, modern finish, resin driveways can be the perfect choice. That said, there are some disadvantages of resin driveways to be aware of – one being that not all are permeable, meaning drainage will need to be carefully designed.

If resin is a material you are considering you will be pleased to learn that the majority are permeable, adding to their fit-and-forget appeal.

Make sure you are opting for a 'resin bound' driveway as opposed to the cheaper alternative, 'resin bonded' as the latter will usual be non-permeable.

FAQs

Why is driveway drainage so important?

Whether you are constructing a driveway from scratch or upgrading an existing one alongside your front garden ideas, ensuring water can effectively drain away is key – not only to ensure the useability and longevity of your driveway but also in the way it impacts your surroundings.

'Making sure surface water doesn’t run off your drive into the road or a neighbour’s property is critical,' explains Jack Hamer.

Putting proper drainage into place prevents flooding, damage to the surface of the driveway or other areas of your property, and the erosion of materials. Additionally, bear in mind that pooling water can, in freezing temperatures, pose a safety risk. And, finally, failure to ensure good drainage could, depending on the size of your driveway, mean you are at risk of ignoring important building regs.

Does my driveway need drainage?

All driveways need some form of drainage if they are to remain puddle free. The kind of drainage, however, depends on the size of the driveway and the materials you wish to use to cover it with.

'If you install a new driveway over 5m² using a non-permeable surface, such as like standard block paving or tarmac, you need to make sure the water drains to a permeable area within your boundary, such as a lawn, flower bed or soakaway rather than onto the the road or neighbour's property,' explains Tom Polkinghorne.

'If you want a big area of non-permeable surfacing that drains straight to the road, you’ll usually need planning permission for driveways,' adds Jack Hamer. 'Most people avoid that by using permeable materials or adding proper drainage channels and soakaways on their own land. However, I recommend always checking in with your local council. It saves a headache down the road (literally!)'

What’s the best drainage for a driveway?

Using a permeable surface material is the best way to ensure your driveway drainage is spot on. Materials such as gravel, permeable block paving, porous asphalt and resin bound gravel are all safe bets.

In areas prone to waterlogging, on large driveways or in locations that experience high rainfall, it will also be wise to consider additional drainage methods such as soakaways.

How do I divert water run off from my driveway?

This is where building in a slope can help – and can even be done when simply resurfacing a driveway. You want to safely direct water away from your home, off your driveway and into a dedicated area where it can slowly disperse.

'The choice of slope depends on various factors, including local drainage conditions, the type of driveway surface and the volume of rainfall in your area,' explains Turrou Landesmann.

Of course getting the slope right is just part of the solution – the diverted water still needs somewhere to go.

'You’d be surprised how many drives look smart but have no drainage at the lowest point,' reveals Jack Hamer. 'We suggest one of the following:

• Linear channel drains across the front of garages or in front of the house.
• Soakaways with metal crates or filled with clean stone.
• Permeable sections such as gravel strips so the water can actually disappear before spilling over.

Gravel is one of the most popular of all the available driveway materials – affordable, available in a huge range of designs and easy to lay on a DIY basis. However, be sure to look into all the pros and cons of gravel driveways before making your final decision.

If your driveway is in dire need of an upgrade, you'll need to carefully research your options.

There are a range of driveway materials available, all with their pros and cons. But while online fact-finding is always helpful, it's also useful to talk to your friends and family about the material they have to get their honest opinions on what it's like to live with. And that's exactly what I did.

I'm thinking about resurfacing my driveway, and wondered about tarmac. Fortunately my mum has a tarmac driveway so I asked her for her candid feedback on what it's like to live with this material, which she has for around 30 years.

Reasons to love a tarmac driveway

Chatting with my mum, there are some definite pros to having a tarmac driveway:

• Durable. Tarmac can handle daily wear and tear with ease, so it's a solid choice for driveways that see a lot of coming and going on a daily basis. Any repairs needed are usually relatively easy and inexpensive. Despite having it for more than 30 years, my mum's tarmac driveway has never needed any significant repairs.
• Low maintenance. Weeds aren't an issue for my mum's tarmac driveway, and a quick sweep is usually enough to tidy it up. She'll also give it a pressure wash once or twice a year.
• Quick and inexpensive to install. While the tarmac driveway was already laid when my mum bought her house, the budget friendly installation of tarmac holds wide appeal.
• Largely weatherproof. Tarmac can usually withstand cold temperatures with ease, and my mum hasn't found any issues even after cold winters that saw a lot of snow and ice. However, it's worth remembering that extreme heatwaves can prove challenging for this material.

‘Tarmac is an extremely cost-effective material and typically more affordable than concrete driveways, making it popular for homeowners on a budget,' adds building and landscaping expert Mark Irving, from Build & Plumb. 'The installation process isn’t as time-consuming as other materials, lowering installation costs.'

When it comes to most suitable driveway applications for tarmac, ‘tarmac is ideal for long driveways, shared access roads, or properties where function and durability are more important than decorative design,' explains Thomas Oldham, co-founder of UK Construction Blog.

'It works well where vehicles are parked regularly, as it is strong enough to handle repeated use without sinking, and it is a sensible choice for sloped driveways because it forms a continuous surface without individual slabs that could shift.’

When it comes to installing a tarmac driveway, it's a job best left to the pros. 'The correct installation and effective drainage is crucial when installing a tarmac or it can affect the lifespan of your driveway,' explains Mark. 'Professional installation is advised to avoid issues such as cracking, water pooling and frequent repairs.'

Reasons to avoid a tarmac driveway

While its cost and maintenance requirements are big ticks in the plus column, there are a few drawbacks that you should consider before opting for a tarmac driveway.

• Not as attractive as other materials. Even if you opt for a brick edge, tarmac is definitely more function than style, which may not be to everyone's taste.
• Moss growth in shaded areas. My mum's biggest gripe with her drive is that she regularly sees moss growth on the tarmac, especially where the driveway is in the shade of her house or the neighbouring property.
• Dulls over time. Despite lasting well over the 30 years my mum has lived in her home, the tarmac driveway definitely isn't looking fresh anymore.

'Tarmac may not be the best choice for homeowners who want a highly decorative or patterned finish, since its appearance is harder to customise,' cautions Thomas. 'In areas with poor drainage, water can sit on the surface and reduce its lifespan if the base is not prepared properly.'

'While it works on moderate slopes, very steep driveways can be an issue if water is allowed to run straight down the surface without proper edging or drainage. In those cases, block paving or resin with integrated drainage channels may be better.'

Why my mum is rethinking her driveway

With the tarmac looking dull and tired, my mum is keen to resurface the driveway and get it looking its best again. Plus as autumn sets in, she starts to see moss develop, which can be managed with a bit of effort, but can become slippery in the height of winter.

In an ideal world, she loves the attractive nature of block paving or resin, but as her driveway comes off a shared tarmac drive, resurfacing with the same material may be the more sensical option.

If you're thinking of changing up your parking spot, then make sure you know the best time of year to get your driveway done to ensure the ideal result.

With autumn temperatures setting in and the days drawing shorter, it's no wonder our attention is turning towards making sure our homes are set up to keep us warm. If you've noticed you have a cold wall, then you might need to take a look at how it's insulated, but can you insulate a cold wall from the inside and how do you do it?

Knowing how to insulate your home is essential if you want it to remain comfortable throughout the colder months, as is being able to spot the signs your insulation needs replacing.

But once you've seen (or felt) those warning signs, what do you do about it? I asked the experts for their tips on how you can tackle the issue from the inside, and what you need to be wary of to ensure it's done properly.

How can you insulate a cold wall from the inside?

The steps you'll need to follow to insulate a cold wall from the inside will depend on a few different factors including what type of wall you have, what's causing the problem and what your budget is.

'The first thing to work out is whether the existing external walls are solid or if they have a cavity,' explains Níall Hedderman from Real Life Architecture, 'because the type of insulation that can be applied will vary depending on how that wall was built.'

George Edwards, Managing Director of Timberwise, continues saying: 'Cold walls are a common problem that can indicate an issue with the construction of the property, such as cavity wall insulation problems.' As cold walls can create the ideal environment for damp, he suggests that you should check for signs of damp before you even think about tackling the insulation side of things.

'It is essential to treat this first, if there is a problem or the potential for one. You might think about booking an appointment for an inspection by an expert who can advise if any action is required.'

Once you have identified the type of wall you have and ruled out any damp issues, you can look at the insulation options. Remember that adding any kind of internal wall insulation will affect the dimensions of the room it's installed in.

But there are a couple of options that are worth considering.

1. Add insulation boards. 'For a more professional and overall effective approach, you should think about insulation boards,' says Paul Kerr at Beatsons Building Supplies. 'This can be a DIY project in small rooms, but for large spaces and longevity in the job, a professional should be brought on. Attaching a rigid foam or mineral wool board to the wall and covering it with plasterboard will provide adequate insulation. You can also use a spray foam under a plasterboard for a similar effect, though this is normally a task for a professional, to avoid gaps/mistakes that shorten the product's longevity.'
2. Try insulating wall coverings. 'For those operating on a shoestring budget or who would like to approach the job in a more DIY way, you can think about insulating wall covers,' says Paul. 'This isn't as effective as installing boards/foam under plasterboards, but can be a short-term technique.' You could also try applying a thermal lining paper to your walls to help reduce heat loss.
3. Apply thermal paint. While not as effective as improving the insulation of the wall itself, using thermal paint could be an inexpensive short-term solution. Don't worry if you can't find your ideal colour, in many cases you can paint over the top of thermal paint with your chosen colour and finish.

What's the best method for homeowners to use?

The best method for insulating a cold wall from the inside will depend on your specific property, so it's always worthwhile getting advice from a qualified specialist.

If you can, opt for a long-term solution, which may cost more upfront, but will be the most effective. This will vary depending on the age and construction of your home, but could involve replacing existing insulation that may be starting to fail, or adding insulation where there is none.

Shorter term solutions, like wall hangings or thermal paint, may be less expensive upfront, but won't be as impactful on the overall temperature of your room as an option that gets to the root of the problem and solves it. As such, you could see yourself spending more on these more affordable solutions over all.

Pitfalls to watch out for when insulating a cold wall

Incorrectly installing insulation could cause more problems than it solves, so it's crucial it's done properly.

If you have cavity walls, then the best course of action may be to add (or replace) the insulation in the cavity itself as opposed to on the internal wall. With solid walls, you will need to ensure you don't inadvertently trap moisture between the insulation and the wall, which could lead to damp and mould.

If you do decide on internal wall insulation (IWI) then you'll also need to be fully aware of the challenges that come along with this. 'IWI will reduce useable floor space, require the removal and refitting of internal services, such as skirting, plug sockets, switches, and radiators, etc),' explains Chris Knights, Business Manager - Building Performance Evaluation, at BSRIA. 'In addition, continuity of insulation may be difficult to achieve in areas such as the void between floors. It is, therefore, imperative that condensation risk is adequately managed, poor detailing can lead to moisture within the structure and in turn mould.'

Depending on the scope of your work, there may also be building regulations requirements that you need to meet, where expert advice will be invaluable, as Chris says: 'You should always seek specialist advice to ensure that you will achieve a thermally efficient and safe outcome. Independent experts can measure the performance before and after improvements, helping to guide design choices and make sure changes really work, without causing problems in other parts of your home.'

FAQs

Why is my wall cold?

There could be many reasons your wall is cold, so you might need to do some investigating with the help of a professional to identify the cause in your specific circumstances.

But it's likely to be one of these three main causes:

• Your existing wall insulation has failed, or it is non-existent
• You have an issue with damp and condensation, which could be caused my moisture penetration or ineffective ventilation
• There are air leaks around windows, doors, vents or electrical outlets, causing draughts.

Remember to prevent condensation and get rid of damp before you tackle the insulation so that you don't inadvertently cause further problems.

If, like me, you have plans to upgrade your driveway, you might be researching what you should upgrade it to.

After all, there are a range of driveway materials you can choose from, all with their pros and cons. While I've been living with a gravel driveway for more than a decade, I've been debating block paving.

Fortunately, my best friend has a block paved drive and, when she heard I was thinking of resurfacing my driveway, gave me a really honest run down of the pros and cons in her experience. If you're in the same boat, her perspective might help you make the right choice for your driveway too.

Reasons to love a block paved driveway

• Can create different patterns and looks. My best friend's driveway features an attractive pattern that adds a decent amount of kerb appeal.
• Not too hard to find a reliable installer. Block paving is a popular choice on the estate where we live, and there are regularly signs by newly paved driveways. People are friendly enough too that you can knock on the door and ask if they'd recommend the installer they used.
• No risk of material escape, unlike gravel driveways. As someone who feels like they are constantly sweeping gravel off the public path and back on to the drive, the idea of a driveway material that stays put, like my friend's block paving, is hugely appealing to me.
• Durable. My best friend and her family have lived in their house for seven years and have yet to replace any of the block paving, despite the wear and tear from two cars on a daily basis, plus any visitor traffic.

Reasons to avoid a block paved driveway

• Maintenance requirements. One of my friend's biggest gripes with her block paving is the amount of maintenance needed for it to stay looking its best. Jet washing is easy enough but then it's recommended to re-sand the joints too. Not ideal when you have a busy family life. And without it, block paving can look tired quite quickly.
• Weeds and moss. Removing weeds from a block paved driveway can be an arduous task, as my friend regularly tells me. I've shared this guide on how to stop weeds growing in block paving with her. In the autumn and winter, she also notices moss starting to grow, which makes the maintenance a year-round thing.
• It can be slippery in autumn and winter, especially if moss grows on it.

Why my friend is rethinking her driveway

My friend's driveway is big enough for their two cars, and potential a third smaller one is parked sensibly, and so it suits their lifestyle for now. But with this being their forever home, and two growing kids, there will soon be need for more off road parking to keep the small cul-de-sac where they live clear.

And so if you're going to have to make changes to your driveway anyway, it's worth considering other options rather than just replacing like-for-like, especially if you have some gripes with your current driveway.

Her favourite option at the moment would be to replace the existing block paving, and extend it slightly (reducing the size of the front lawn), using tarmac with a contrasting brick edge. This is an affordable and low maintenance option, that looks good (at least to begin with). Multiple neighbours have gone for this option over block paving, so it would feel very in-keeping with the local area too.

But it'll be important for her to weigh up the pros and cons of tarmac driveways before committing.

If you're planning a similar project, make sure you choose the best time of year to get your driveway done for the best results.

If your home improvement plans involve making changes to existing walls, you'll need to understand what kind of walls you are dealing with, especially as homes are built with multiple different types. Depending on the age and construction of your home, you may be dealing with a cavity wall. But how can you know for sure?

The exact process of removing or altering a wall varies based on the type of wall you have and whether it is a load-bearing wall or not. And so it's crucial that you correctly identify the type of wall you have so that work can be carried out safely.

In the case of cavity walls, I asked the pros your burning questions, including how you can identify one, whether they are load-bearing and if they can be altered or removed.

What is a cavity wall?

'A cavity wall is a wall that is made up from one outer brick wall, an inner brick or concrete block, with a cavity (space) in between them,' explains Mark Irving, building expert at Build & Plumb. 'The idea of a cavity wall is to provide a barrier between the interior and exterior of a property, to prevent dampness and provide insulation.'

Given their purpose, your cavity walls will be your home's exterior walls, rather than a partition wall between rooms.

Architect Níall Hedderman from Capital A Architecture adds: 'The whole point of building a cavity is that the outer part of the wall can get soaked in the rain while the inner part remains dry. Water can't get across the cavity and eventually drains out through the weep holes.

'Modern homes regularly have insulation fitted in the cavity during construction but it usually doesn't fill the entire cavity. An air gap is left to make sure water can escape out through the weep holes.'

How do you identify a cavity wall?

Not all external walls will be cavity walls, and the best way to check is to ask a trusted builder who will be able to confirm what kind of wall you are dealing with.

But for your own curiosity, there are some clues that you can look out for to try and identify a cavity wall yourself.

'A cavity wall can be built using any type of masonry; brick, block or stone and the outer surface can be coated in render, harling or pebbledash,' explains Níall. 'So it isn't possible to tell at a glance whether a wall is solid or has a cavity, but there are some tell tale signs.

'First off the age of the building, if a home was built after the 1920s it is far more likely to have a cavity wall.

'Second, look for weep holes. These are gaps at regular intervals between the bricks, usually at the bottom of the wall and sometimes also above windows or doors. The gap is about the same size as the short edge of your mobile phone and in modern homes they are made from plastic. Weep holes exist to allow moisture to escape from the cavity.'

The thickness of the wall can also be a useful indicator, but it's not an exact science, says Mark: 'An often obvious clue is the wall thickness, as cavity walls are generally thicker than other wall types. However, this really depends on the age of the house. Older, solid walls can be thicker than cavity walls.'

Can you knock down or alter a cavity wall?

It is possible to alter or knock down a cavity wall, but you'll need to make sure you employ a professional to do it for you.

Whether you are adding in a new external doorway, or knocking through while building an extension, professional input is required to ensure the changes are made safely.

Tackling this job on a DIY basis to save money will be a false economy, and the risk of causing serious damage to your home is too high to chance it.

FAQs

Are cavity walls load-bearing?

While the outer skin of the cavity wall is largely decorative, the inner skin is load-bearing and, as with any load-bearing wall, you will need an experience builder and a structural engineer, who will determine what size and type of beam you need to support the weight of the structure above.

This will need to adhere to the building regulations too, which means you will need to apply and have the work inspected at various points. If altering the wall is the only work you're doing, then a submitting a Building Notice should be fine, but if the wall is being removed as part of a larger extension project, you may need to submit a Full Plans application instead. Your local authority's Building Control department will be able to confirm if you are unsure.

If you're planning on altering or removing a wall for the first time, heed the advice from a seasoned renovator and the lessons she's learned while knocking down walls.

Whether you're taking on a whole house renovation, adding an extension, or simply sprucing up the space you have, they'll be some tasks you'll gladly leave to a professional, and others that you may be willing to try out yourself.

Patching up holes or cracks in plaster is one of those jobs that can often fall into a DIYers remit.

But while it might seem like an incredible simple task, not knowing how to do it properly could leave you with a recurring problem rather than a permanent solution. Serial renovator and fellow homes journalist Laura Crombie shared how she learned this lesson the hard way and what she does now to resolve wall cracks quickly and effectively.

'How I discovered how to correctly fill cracks in walls'

'My husband and I have been renovating our four-bed property in Worcestershire for the last five years and we've done the majority of it ourselves to help stretch our budget as far as it can go.

'While we've taught ourselves loads of skills from YouTube videos, there's plenty that we've learned through trial and error. And one of those main lessons is around how to deal with hairline cracks in the wall.

'Initially, it seemed really simple and straightforward. We'd just fill the cracks with Polyfilla, leave it to dry, sand it down then paint over it. But then frustratingly, we'd see them come back again. It was so disappointing, especially in a room we thought we'd finished.

'After a bit more research and advice from friends, we now know you get a better result if you scrape any loose debris out of the crack, and in fact make it a little bit bigger, before filling it. By making the crack bigger and making sure it's clear of any debris, you give the filler a much better surface to stick to, which makes it more effective. This step was a little bit messy, so make sure you have a vacuum handy, especially if, like us, you're trying to do this with two small kids running around.

'Since we've tried this new method though, the cracks haven't come back. Result! My advice to anyone tackling a similar task in their home is to not cut corners. We learned the hard way, but are so relieved we've nailed it now.'

We've used the same method to fill any holes in the wall too.

Having the right tools and materials for the job is vital too.

Remember, before you tackle something like this, you should check whether the cracks in your walls are something to worry about (like signs of subsidence) or whether they are largely cosmetic.

If the crack is indicative of something more serious, it's best to resolve the issue with a professional to prevent it from getting worse, rather than filling it on a surface level and hoping for the best.

Adding more space is top of the wish list for many homeowners, whether it's an extra bedroom or a larger, more open living area.

While building an extension is an obvious solution, it's not always practical. The cost can be prohibitive for a lot of people, not everyone wants to lose valuable outside space, and for those who live in a designated zone like a Conservation Area may find the planning permission process off putting.

Tactical decorating is another option people can try, using colour as well as furniture choice and placement to make your home feel bigger without any structural work. But sometimes this isn't enough.

Fortunately, there are various expert-rated options that fall somewhere between the two, that could give you additional square footage where you need it, without having to change your home's overall size.

1. Knock down internal walls

A brilliant way to make your home feel bigger is to get rid of the things making it feel small — the walls. Removing internal walls can improve the flow and functionality of your home, making it much better suited to modern life.

'Open-plan living has become a modern-day dream for many homeowners, as it promises brighter spaces, better flow, and a more sociable layout,' says Paul Kerr, a building and landscaping specialist working with Beatsons. ' Taking down internal living room/kitchen walls is one of the most popular requests we've seen new homeowners make when moving.

'The advantages include opening up cramped spaces, bringing in natural light, and improving the functionality of the space, making it easy for people to move through and between rooms.'

If going open plan isn't your cup of tea, fortunately, there's no rule to say you have to remove a wall entirely. Even adding a new doorway can transform how you live in your home. Sometimes too it's not just about removing the wall, it's about knocking one down and putting another one up elsewhere. This can be particularly useful if you want to keep a layout of separate rooms, but want to change their proportions.

But before you start swinging a sledgehammer, it's crucial you find out what type of wall you are dealing with. A partition wall can usually be removed without too much hassle, but to remove a load-bearing wall, you'll need professional input and sign off from your local building control department.

2. Convert underused space

Before you even think about extending, it's prudent to identify any existing underused space that could be better used as living space.

A loft conversion is a good option if you are in need of an additional bedroom, while a garage conversion can help free up space on the ground floor. When it comes to converting an attached or integral garage, knocking down the walls around it can help incorporate this bonus square footage in to the rest of the floorplan, rather than leaving it as a separate and, in the case of single garages, narrow standalone room.

If you don't have a loft or garage that can be converted, all is not lost, as Claire Duncan from Inspirational Interiors, a verified Checkatrade member, explains: 'On a smaller scale, consider whether you have dead space beneath the stairs that you could utilise. Many of these spaces are bigger than you might think and can have untapped potential. You could create a small office area, storage space which could replace furniture elsewhere, or even a ground floor toilet.

'These small spaces can make a huge difference to the overall feel of your home. To achieve the best results, always consult experienced professionals who can guide you on planning, design and building regulations.'

3. Repurpose rooms

To get more space where you need it, it's worth taking a step back and trying to imagine the rooms as a blank slate, and see how you would lay out your home if you could start from scratch.

Maybe what's currently a larger and hardly-used living room would be better as a kitchen diner, or a spare bedroom a better size for a family bathroom.

However, moving plumbing services can be costly, so it's important to weigh this plan against the cost of an extension to see which is the most cost-effective option.

4. Bring in more natural light

To give the illusion of a bigger and brighter home, without changing the layout or adding extra space, increase the amount of natural light that flows in.

Whether it's swapping thick framed patio doors for some thin-framed sliding doors, adding some fixed glazing, or choosing a different type of window, bringing in more daylight is a sure fire way to make a small and dark home feel more spacious.

For maximum impact, knock down internal walls at the same time to ensure that daylight finds its way right to the centre of your property. If your home's existing structure allows for it, adding a roof window will maximise the amount of natural light you get each day. During the summer months, this can have the added benefit of reducing your reliance on artificial lighting which can lower your energy bills.

If clutter is also making your home feel a bit claustrophobic, then make sure you try this decluttering checklist to clear out what you no longer need.

For homeowners wanting to improve the connection between the property and the garden, and to maybe add a touch of wow factor to their home, bifold doors are a popular choice. But before you decide, it's worth considering the alternatives to bifold doors that could help achieve your goals, whether you are extending or simply upgrading your existing doors.

Your choice of patio doors will not only depend on your budget, but also the age and style of your home, and how you want to use the space. In some cases, bifold doors will be the ideal choice, but in others, a different style might be better.

So whether you want to maximise natural light and views of the garden, or create the ultimate indoor/outdoor entertaining space, these options are well worth considering before you part with your cash.

1. Sliding doors

When it comes to the bifold vs sliding doors debate, both have their pros and cons. But if you're wanting to maximise views of your garden, sliding doors often have the edge over bifolds.

'For homeowners who want to maximise natural light, make living spaces feel larger and ensure unobstructed views of the outdoors, slimline aluminium sliding doors are proving popular,' says Shaun Cartwright from Aluprof Living. This type of patio door has a larger expanse of glass in the frames, which is key to achieving those panoramic views that are so sought after. However, they are not without their downside. Shaun says: 'The trade-off is that sliding doors work by gliding one panel behind another, which means one pane will always remain in place.'

2. Pocket doors

If you are looking to create a completely open, well, opening between your home and the garden, then pocket doors aren't just for inside your home — they can in fact be a suitable alternative to bifold doors.

The door leaves recess back into an envelope so are almost completely hidden from view when the doors are open.

This can be particularly suitable for contemporary homes, where a tidier option than a concertinaed bank of bifold doors stashed at the side of the aperture is preferred. However these can be costly to install.

3. Pivot doors

For a super stylish option, a pivot door is another alternative to bifold doors, especially if your keen on uninterrupted views and want to open your home up to the outdoors.

Liam Spencer, owner of Northallerton Glass, says: 'Pivot doors rotate on a pivot hinge mechanism, meaning that they can be made from larger, heavier panels so they can be opened wider.' However, Liam explains that this kind of door works best when installed in a sheltered location, which means that a door like this may not be suitable for all homes.

A door like this will also need a decent amount of clearance to open it, and so may not be the right choice for homes with smaller or awkwardly shaped gardens.

4. Slide and turn doors

For the benefits of both bifold and sliding doors, then it's worth considering slide and turn doors.

'Slide-and-turn systems (sometimes called slide-pivot) are enjoying some popularity at the moment too and they bridge the gap nicely between bifolds, sliding doors and French doors,' says Matt Shaw, Technical Director at Vibrant Doors. 'Panels slide along a track then park at the end vertically. You can open most of the width like a bifold but enjoy slimmer sightlines and a simple daily-use traffic door.'

5. Fixed glazing

Another suitable alternative might not be a door at all. If you want to enjoy uninterrupted views of the garden, but opening up the space entirely isn't your thing, then adding some picture windows, or fixed glazing, could be the ideal addition to your patio doors.

Incorporating some fixed glazing around a set of patio doors can also give the illusion of an indoor outdoor space, without having to open the aperture up to the elements — steel-framed doors and glazing can create a particularly striking look.

'For period homes or smaller openings, French doors with glazed sidelights remain a good-value and straightforward choice,' says Matt Shaw. 'You get a more traditional look, a convenient everyday ‘traffic door’ and plenty of natural light.'

FAQs

Why might a homeowner want an alternative to bifold doors?

All homes (and homeowners) are different and so a one-size-suits-all approach when it comes to patio doors isn't going to work.

'Bifold doors have been a stylish patio choice for many years,' explains Shaun Cartwright. 'However, during this time, innovation in home design been accelerating, providing homeowners with even more options to seamlessly blend their homes and gardens. Bifolds remain a popular choice for some, but the decision-making process today is driven by factors including personal design preference and door features such as zero thresholds, ease of operation or required space.'

Are bifold doors going out of style?

According to Matt Shaw, bifold doors definitely aren't going out of style. 'Bifolds aren’t over, they’ve just matured. Demand has broadened rather than vanished. In our experience, homeowners are choosing sliders for the ultra-slim, understated look and cleaner views when closed, but bifolds are still winning in the style stakes and when you want wall-to-wall opening on summer days for a stronger indoor-outdoor feel.

'Trends will always ebb and flow. The current tilt towards slim sliders is just more reflective of how folks are living their lives - there’s an appreciation of and a lot of value put in the uninterrupted view you get through the expansive glazing of sliding doors. But, if your priority is maximising the size of an opening out onto a terrace you use constantly and you want them to make a statement while doing it, bifolds remain a solid option.'

If you're choosing new patio doors, then you'll need to choose the right type of glazing. We've compared double vs triple glazing to help you make the right choice.

EDITOR’S NOTE: An earlier version of this article included a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote has been removed. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

If you're planning on undertaking significant renovation work at home for the first time, then it's incredibly helpful to know the errors to dodge so that your project runs smoothly. And while there are a few mistakes to avoid when you knock down walls and remodel your home's internal layout, they all stem from one major blunder — a failure to prepare effectively.

Knowing how to remove an internal wall is essential if you want to rework your home's configuration so that it's better suited to modern life. But while this renovation project can be transformative, it also has potential to go horribly wrong, especially if you are dealing with a load-bearing wall.

To help ensure project success, I asked design and building pros about the one mistake that homeowners should avoid when knocking down or altering walls, and it turns out, they all agree that this gaffe is the one to be avoided at all costs.

What's the worst mistake you can make when knocking down internal walls?

Improper planning is the worst mistake you can make when knocking down internal walls, and it can have far reaching consequences. So it's crucial that you plan carefully, and use the advice and skills of professionals to avoid these common pitfalls:

• You knock down the wrong wall. 'You should always take time to plan the potential new layout (with professional advice) and how it can be designed,' says Paul Kerr, a building and landscaping specialist at Beatsons. You might have your sights set on removing a specific wall, but expert design input might actually highlight another wall as the one to remove, that could open up your layout in a way you hadn't predicted.
• You knock it down when you should have just altered it. Not all walls need to be removed in their entirety. It might be that by opening up part of the wall, or adding a new doorway is all you need to solve any flow or lack of light issues.
• You fail to check if it's load-bearing. Removing a load-bearing wall without the proper process in place could be disastrous and incredibly costly. 'You have to be certain the structure of the building isn't compromised, and should always seek professional advice and support on which walls are load-bearing and which are not,' adds Paul.

• You overlook hidden services. You should always check if there are pipes or electrical wires located inside the wall, even if it isn't load bearing. To help, this Amazon stud finder wall scanner (£24.69) is essential. Once you've located the pipes and wires, make sure they are decommissioned before you start removing the wall.
• You underestimate the disruption it causes. 'Removing a wall can cause significant dust and mess, so preparation is key. Use dust sheets, seal off adjoining rooms and consider temporary ventilation or filtration to protect finishes,' advises interior designer Susie Pfeiffer from Pfeiffer Design.
• You forget about the finishing touches. Before you knock down the wall, you'll need to plan the finishing touches that will make the space look complete. This could be anything from coving and skirting boards to flooring and furniture placement. Ignoring this preparatory step could leave you with a lack lustre finish and a space that doesn't quite feel right.
• You budget inaccurately. Not all walls are the same, and as such, there's no one price-fits-all. Knocking down a non load-bearing partition wall is going to be more cost-effective than removing one that is acting as a structural support. So make sure you understand exactly what your wall removal plans entail so you can allocate funds accordingly. Use our guide to how much it costs to remove an internal wall to help.

To help boost your confidence of taking on a project like this, heed the advice of a serial renovator and the lessons she learned from knocking down walls on a DIY basis.

EDITOR’S NOTE: An earlier version of this article included a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote has been removed. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

If your home's current layout isn't working for your lifestyle, then it may be a good idea to remodel the space by knocking down or altering some internal walls. But this requires careful consideration, as if you get it wrong, you could be creating more problems than you solve.

Removing internal walls is a popular way to make your home better suited to modern life. It can make a home feel brighter and more spacious, which makes it particularly appealing to those who can't afford or don't want to extend.

But is it always a good idea? I asked design and building experts about the pros and cons of knocking down walls to help you make the right decision for your home.

Is it a good idea to knock down internal walls?

Assessing the pros and cons and ultimately whether it's a good idea to move, alter or knock down internal walls will depend on a few different factors, including the type of walls you want to change, how many where they are and the result you are trying to achieve.

‘Open-plan living has become a modern-day dream for many homeowners, as it promises brighter spaces, better flow, and a more sociable layout,’ says Paul Kerr, a building and landscaping specialist working with Beatsons. ‘Taking down internal living room/kitchen walls is one of the most popular requests we've seen new homeowners make when moving.’

But while it might seem like a good idea, it's important that you consider how your space will function if the wall was removed, as this may throw up some issues that will need to be resolved before you move forward, including furniture and radiator placement, cupboard space and any loss of privacy.

The type of wall you are dealing with will also factor into your decision making, and it's best to get a structural engineer or trusted builder to confirm the kind of wall you want to alter. If you are dealing with a load-bearing wall, then the process of removing or altering it will be more complex and the cost of removing the wall will go up. A partition wall, on the other hand, will be much more straightforward.

Before you commit to knocking down any internal wall, make a note of the pros and cons to help you decide if it's the right choice.

Pros of knocking down walls

Whether you want to remove a single wall, or knock down a few to create an open-plan space, there are a number of benefits:

• Creates a modern layout that suits your lifestyle. If small boxy rooms aren't you're thing, then opening them up by removing walls can make a dated home feel much more contemporary.
• Improves the flow of natural light. Susie Pfeiffer, Interior Designer at Pfeiffer Design: 'Removing an internal wall can be a great way to open up a space, improve natural light and enhance flow especially if you're aiming for open-plan living.'
• Less expensive than extending. If you want bigger rooms and a more spacious feel, but don't want to go to the expense of building an extension, then removing a wall can get you the result you're after without adding to the overall square footage.
• Great for entertaining. If you love socialising, then knocking down walls to transform a tiny kitchen into a larger, more sociable open-plan kitchen will allow you and your guests to mingle with ease.
• Could increase your home's value. If you are planning on moving house in the near future, removing walls can help to boost the appeal of your home to potential buyers, especially if it transforms a small kitchen into something more spacious.

Cons of knocking down walls

It's easy to get blinded by the benefits of knocking down a wall or two, but there are some drawbacks that need to be considered before you start swinging the sledgehammer.

• You might lose some privacy. Depending on how many walls you plan on removing, you could end up sacrificing some privacy, which could feel problematic, especially if you live in a busy family home.
• Furniture placement options might be limited. If you are planning on removing multiple walls to create an open-plan living space, then you'll need to carefully plan where your furniture will go in the new layout. And fewer walls can make this tricky.
• Harder to heat a larger space. 'Removing walls might look great, but it can make it harder to keep your home warm in winter unless you’ve planned your insulation and radiators accordingly,' says Thomas Oldham, Co-Founder of UK Construction Blog.
• Noise, acoustics and kitchen smells. If you remove a wall that was previously blocking noise from travelling between the kitchen and living room, you might find the new space distractingly noisy. And you'll need to factor in effective extraction to prevent kitchen smells from reaching where you don't want them to.
• Some walls are more expensive to remove than others. It's more expensive (and complex) to knock down a load-bearing wall than to remove a partition wall.

Other options to consider

Whether you are trying to create a open-plan layout, improve the flow of your home, or simply make a smaller room a little bit bigger, it's worth considering the other options that could get the results you want, while dodging the potential downsides.

• Relocate the wall. If you are set on knocking down a wall, then building a new partition wall elsewhere could help you achieve all the pros and bypass the cons.
• Create a new doorway. Instead of knocking down a wall entirely, opening up a new doorway with internal bifolds or doors with glass panels can help natural light flow through the space, making it feel lighter and brighter, without sacrificing cosiness or privacy.
• Consider a broken plan layout. By using movable screens, full height shelves, fixed glazing and partial walls you could create a lighter brighter space, without compromising on privacy.

If your wall removal plans are relatively simple, such as removing a wall between a kitchen and separate dining room, then it can be a bit of a no-brainer.

However, if you are trying to solve more complex issues, like a lack of natural light and flow, or want to take on a full remodel, make sure you work with an architect or designer who will be able to help you create the result you are after. They'll often come up with ideas and solutions that you've never even considered.

If you do want an open-plan layout, make sure you avoid these three regrets from someone who has been there and done it.

If you are planning on altering the layout of your home by moving internal walls, or removing them entirely, then you'll need to understand the different types of wall you could come across, including partition walls.

After all, the process of removing internal walls will depend on whether the wall is simply a partition wall or whether it is serving a more significant structural purpose.

To help you determine the kind of wall you have before you pick up a sledgehammer, I asked those in the know what exactly a partition wall is, as well as the key features to help you identify one in your home.

What is a partition wall?

Before you even think about knocking down an internal wall, you will need to determine what kind of wall it is.

'A partition wall is an interior wall of a property that is non-load bearing, so it doesn’t support the weight of the structure above and is not necessary for the stability of the building,' says Mark Irving, building expert at Build & Plumb. 'These walls are typically used to divide areas of the home or provide aesthetic purposes.'

While less structurally significant than load-bearing walls, partition walls aren't always straightforward. Architect Níall Hedderman from Capital A Architecture explains: 'Partitions might seem like the most basic wall in a building but, given the variety of styles, ages and methods of construction across the UK, partitions can also be complex.

'It is possible to have brick partitions that don't carry any load and timber stud frame walls which do, and sometimes in the same building!

'Older properties can have more than one type of partition wall, especially if the building has more than one floor. The lower floors might have brick partitions but the top floor could have timber stud walls between the rooms.'

If your property has undergone any remodelling work in the past, it's also possible that you could have partition walls made up of different materials, which can make identification more challenging.

'Newer homes increasingly use metal frames covered with plasterboard to form partitions. These have dense mineral wool inside them to reduce noise transfer between rooms,' adds Níall.

How do you identify a partition wall?

So how can you tell if a wall is a partition wall rather than load-bearing? There are a few signs to look out for that will give you a good indication.

'Firstly, a key way to identify a partition wall is through its location,' says Mark Irving. 'For instance, a partition wall is used in the interior of a property, not the exterior, so this can be a key sign.

'Furthermore, as these walls are non-load bearing they are commonly made from materials like plasterboard, so they may sound hollow when tapped. Simply, knock on your wall using your knuckle and if it sounds loud or hollow this can be a strong indication of a partition wall.'

Susie Pfeiffer, Interior Designer at Pfeiffer Design adds: 'To identify a partition wall, check its thickness: partition walls are usually thinner than structural ones, often under 100mm. They're also commonly made of stud and plasterboard, which offers more flexibility and is lighter weight than masonry.'

However, while these can be good indicators as to whether a wall is simply a partition wall, the only way to know for certain is to get confirmation from a structural engineer or builder. After all, if you get it wrong, and end up removing what you think is a partition wall but it turns out to be load-bearing, you could face serious and expensive consequences.

Is it easy to remove or alter a partition wall?

Once you are sure you are dealing with a partition wall rather than a load-bearing one, then it can be relatively easy to remove or alter as you wish. It is usually within the skillset of a competent DIYer.

You'll need to be mindful of any wires or pipes that might be located in the wall. This bestselling stud finder from Amazon (£19.54) will help you find them. These will need to be decommissioned before you try to remove the wall.

If you have a radiator on the wall you want to remove, you may want to consult with a professional, especially if you want to relocate this to another wall.

FAQs

How much does it cost to remove a partition wall?

When it comes to how much it costs to remove an internal wall, the good news is that partition walls are usually more affordable walls to remove. Load-bearing walls will require professional involvement and so cost more to remove.

If you task a builder with removing the partition wall, then it can usually be done in a couple of days, and will cost in the region of £800-1,000 depending on your builder's day rate.

If this falls into your DIY remit, then your costs will be much lower. But remember you'll need to budget for any materials and tools you may need for the job.

As with any kind of renovation work, make sure you only DIY the tasks that you can complete safely and competently. Biting off more than you can chew in an effort to save money will usually end up costing more in remedial work.

Can I remove a partition wall myself?

If you are a confident and experienced DIYer, then you may well be able to knock down a non load-bearing partition wall yourself. Just heed these wall removal lessons learned from an experienced renovator.

If however the job looks to be more complex, or if you aren't sure if the wall is load-bearing or not, then it's best to call in the professionals.

Before you plan on knocking down any internal wall, make sure you carefully consider whether it's the right option for your home, especially when it comes to an open plan kitchen vs closed plan kitchen.

If you have spotted cracks in walls in your home you are most likely wondering what they mean.

Are they a sign the ground beneath is unstable? Is your roof causing issues? Will you need to look into how to remove an internal wall? In short, should you be worried?

'Cracks in walls, in most instances, are likely to be harmless,' reassures architect Tina Patel of Architect Your Home. 'If you have concerns, there are a few things you can do in the first instance before you get a professional involved.'

We asked the experts for their advice on how homeowners can tell the difference between a crack that indicates a serious problem requiring swift action, and those that are wholly innocent and no cause for concern.

What should you do if you have spotted a crack in your wall?

If you have noticed a new crack in a wall, or one that seems to be getting bigger, you can't just learn how to paint a wall and hope the problem goes away – so what should your first steps be?

'Monitor the crack,' advises Tina Patel. 'The easiest way to do this, when you don’t have specialist equipment, is to mark a number of points on the crack with a line through it in pencil (perpendicular to the crack). Date each mark and ensure you also mark the end of the crack in same way. Take photos of these marks.

'You can then check back in four weeks to see if the pencil line from one side of the crack has shifted to the other side,' continues Tina. 'If that has happened, you can consider the potential causes with a specialist structural engineer.'

What do subsidence cracks look like?

One of the first things most people worry about when they spot a crack in the wall is subsidence. With that in mind, what is the easiest way to tell if the crack you are looking at has been caused by ground movement?

'The most notable sign of building subsidence is the appearance of cracks, particularly diagonal ones, in interior plaster or exterior brickwork,' explains Craig Dean, residential services director, from Geobear. 'These cracks often appear suddenly, are wider at the top and are generally thicker than fine hairline cracks. A good rule of thumb is that subsidence cracks tend to be wider than a ten pence coin.

'Other indicators include sinking or uneven floors, visible gaps between floors and skirting boards, and cracks where an extension meets the main structure,' continues Craig. 'Doors and windows may begin to stick or misalign. These are all classic signs that the structure may be moving as a result of subsidence.'

What do hairline cracks in plaster mean?

Very fine, hairline cracks are common, particularly when painting over new plaster – but what causes them?

'Hairline cracks are very thin (less than 1mm) and are typically found in plaster or render,' picks up Craig Dean. 'Usually they are caused by shrinkage, drying or minor settlement. These are cosmetic and generally harmless.'

That said, even in the case of settlement cracks, Craig still recommends keeping an eye on them.

'Settlement cracks are common throughout a building, particularly in new constructions, and are usually caused by natural settling of the building’s structure,' explains Craig. 'Geobear recommends monitoring these cracks for changes. If they stabilise, then no action is needed, but persistent or widening cracks should be evaluated by a professional.'

What do vertical cracks in walls mean?

Spotted a crack that runs from the top to the bottom of the wall? This is known as a 'vertical crack.'

'These cracks are so-called because they run up and down both interior and exterior walls,' explains Craig Dean. 'You should monitor the crack for changes if it’s less than 3mm wide. If the crack is wider, then it will be necessary to consult an expert in ground engineering to rule out subsidence.'

'If the crack is visible on both sides of the wall – especially if it is a external wall – this may involve something structural,' adds Tina Patel. 'To rectify this could involve underpinning the existing foundations or putting in new structural support if the wall has been overloaded.'

Are diagonal cracks in walls a cause for concern?

Cracks that run diagonally through walls should definitely set some alarm bells ringing.

'Diagonal cracks are often a sign of structural movement or subsidence, especially if the crack is wider than 3mm and located around windows or door frames,' warns Craig Dean. 'Diagonal cracks should be investigated promptly.

'Stepped cracks in brickwork are also classic indicators of subsidence,' continues Craig. 'Stepped cracks follow the mortar lines – the visible joints or seams between individual bricks – in a stair-step pattern and often widen at the top.

What should you do about horizontal cracks in walls?

Sometimes, horizontal cracks can appear in walls, and these can be a sign of something structural that needs to be investigated.

'These cracks may signal pressure, or movement, within the wall,' explains Craig Dean. 'Depending on their position, horizontal cracks could indicate serious structural stress or wall bowing.'

So how can you tell if the horizonal crack you are looking at is a sign of something that needs professional intervention?

'Subsidence cracks tend to be deeper and wider than superficial ones,' advises Craig. 'A superficial crack is one that appears on the surface of a material and does not extend deeply into it. Cracks wider than around 3mm warrant investigation.'

When should you worry about a crack in your wall?

'Remember, buildings do move through the seasons and different elements will shift at different rates – so you would expect to see some movement, but big shifts can be a result of some other issues,' says Tina Patel.

While not all cracks mean subsidence, if the crack you have noticed fits any of the following criteria it is probably time to call in the pros to assess it.

• Diagonal or stepped pattern: 'Cracks that follow a stair-step or diagonal pattern are more likely to be related to ground movement,' says Craig Dean.
• Progression over time: If you are monitoring the crack and it is steadily getting longer or wider, it is best to call in a professional.
• Seasonal changes: 'Cracks that widen during dry periods, and close during wet months, can indicate soil shrinkage and expansion,' says Craig. 'This is especially common in clay soil.'
• Width: A crack that is any wider than 3mm warrants further investigation.

What are other signs of subsidence?

Cracks are just one sign that your house could be suffering from subsidence.

'Look for cracks in plaster, uneven or sloping floors, gaps around skirting boards and sticking doors or windows,' says Craig Dean. 'Externally, look out for cracks in brickwork, leaning chimneys, cracks at building corners or where extensions meet. Also, be on the lookout for gaps or cracking around window and door frames.

'Other symptoms of subsidence might include drainage issues, water damage or a structure appearing to lean,' adds Craig.

What should you do if you think your home has subsidence?

If you think that your home is suffering from subsidence, don't panic, there are steps you can take to resolve the issue.

'In our experience, when it comes to subsidence, it is important to get an independent specialist building surveyor’s report for the assessment,' advises Tina Patel. 'You should also check the specific requirements under your insurance for subsidence. Having subsidence or a record of this on your property could impact your insurance and mortgage for excessive periods of time and even the ability to sell the property, so if you think there is a risk it is important to have the independent report undertaken to verify this.

'When we have advised homeowners who thought they had subsidence (as a result of their insurance team advising it was) it was proved it was not upon further investigation, avoiding the need for costly increases in premiums, so it is well worth the investment of the building surveyor’s report.'

FAQs

What is subsidence?

If all this talk of subsidence has got you wondering what it actually is, this should help clear things up.

The definition of subsidence is the downward movement of the ground underneath a building. It actually has nothing to do with the building on top.

'Subsidence occurs when the ground beneath a building sinks, causing the foundations to shift,' explains Craig Dean.

If you discover a crack that is harmless, then it's a good idea to fill it, but make sure you don't miss this crucial step.

Exactly how much does it cost to remove an internal wall? This is a question you should definitely be asking if you plan on remodelling the existing layout of your home, are extending, or renovating an older property.

It is crucial, at the same time as looking at how to remove an internal wall, that you get an idea of how much the task is likely to cost you. This will avoid any delays in the work as well as nasty surprises that leave you short for the other aspects of your building project.

We took a look at all the costs involved with this task, how you can avoid overspending and the factors that are likely to push prices up.

How much does it cost to knock down an internal wall?

How much it costs to remove an internal wall very much depends on the type of wall you are removing and who is doing the work.

'A lot of this will be dependent on the structural solution being proposed, as well as the size of steel work required,' explains architect Tina Patel of Architect Your Home. 'For example, is there a box frame of steel (when you create a box shape in steel with one steel in ground) or a goal post configuration with foundations?'

If you are removing a load-bearing wall, it will cost more than a non-load bearing wall due to the fact that professional input will be required, as well as structural support.

How much does it cost to remove an internal load-bearing wall?

The removal of a load bearing wall – one that gives support to another element of the house, such as a wall on the floor above – is more expensive than taking out a non-load bearing structure and is often a job that needs doing when building an extension.

The additional costs are due to factors such as fees for a structural engineer to make the calculations for the additional supports that will be required to take the weight of whatever the old wall was holding up. You will also have to pay for the supports themselves.

'The cost to remove an internal wall will depend on factors such as the size of your home, the size of your wall, or whether your wall is a load bearing wall or a stud wall,' picks up Andy Simms, building expert at MyBuilder.com. 'A stud wall is simpler to remove and typically won’t cost more than £1,000. However, removing a load bearing wall requires further care and may require a fee of around £2,500.'

According to Checkatrade, the average cost of removing an internal load bearing wall is between £1,250–£1,750. Additionally, They estimate that a rolled steel joist (RSJ) will cost £800–£950 and that a structural engineer will charge around £200 per visit.

How much does it cost to remove a non-load bearing wall?

If it is a non-load bearing, or partition wall you are dealing with, costs will be lower.

If you are calling in a builder to carry out the work, you will obviously need to factor in the labour costs. Removing the wall should take no longer than a couple of days and the average builder's day rate is approximately £400-£500.

Even if you plan on carrying out the work yourself, just as with many other DIY home repairs and tasks, you will still need to factor in the cost of materials and any tools you require for the job.

Which factors affect how much it costs to remove an internal wall?

Aside from whether or not the wall you are removing is load bearing, there are several other factors that will influence how much this job costs you.

The size of the wall will play a part, as well as whether or not it will affect a wall you share with your neighbour – also known as a Party Wall.

If you live in a terraced or semi-detached house, you may find that the new beams needed to support walls that were once held up by a load-bearing wall, might need to be supported by shared walls. You will need to involve a Party Wall surveyor and, possibly, draw up a Party Wall Agreement.

'Most party wall surveyors charge an hourly rate that is usually between £90 and £450 an hour,' reveals Angela Kerr, director and editor at HomeOwners Alliance.

Are there any hidden costs to be aware of?

Along with labour costs and the price you pay for any tools and equipment, there are other elements you should be aware of if you want to go into this project fully aware of what you will eventually end up paying.

'Don’t forget, removal of the wall is also likely to mean new flooring, potentially a new ceiling and quite significant disruption that will require replastering and quite a lot of decoration,' points out Tina Patel. 'As a result, when looked at as a whole, the typical removal of a load bearing wall is likely to leave not much change from £10,000 plus VAT.

'Costs will increase depending on the complexity of any temporary supports required and what size the opening is,' continues Tina. 'If the wall is non-load bearing, as there are no structural supports, that cost would be removed, but the transitions between the two spaces will still need to be accounted for.'

'There are a number of repair jobs you will likely need to complete after your internal wall is removed, such as plastering, and decorating where your old wall used to be,' adds Andy Simms. 'This will amount to extra cost, but there are ways you can keep the cost down. If you rectify only the line of the old wall, instead of the whole new space, this may not leave your new space looking perfect, but the cost won’t be as hefty.'

You may also have to get specialist renovation insurance if your existing policy doesn't cover removing a wall, so bear that in mind too. All of this can be covered if you avoid the cardinal wall removal mistake.

FAQs

Will removing an internal wall add value to your home?

This very much depends on how the removal of the wall will change the layout of your home. For many people, open plan works well, but for busy households and those requiring quiet space for working or relaxing, a broken plan layout can be better.

That said, if you are removing a wall to create an open plan kitchen diner, you can be pretty confident that this is a job well worth doing.

The FMB recently carried out research that suggested removing an internal wall to create this sort of space could add more than £48,000 to the average home in London.

Before you get too excited with the sledgehammer, make sure you have carefully considered the pros and cons of knocking down the wall. Choosing wrongly could prove costly.

If you're about to embark on a significant home improvement project, you'll know that there is plenty to tick off the list before you even pick up a tool to start the work.

And a project like removing an internal wall is no exception. Depending on the scope of your plans and the property you live in, you might already be aware that you need to submit a Building Notice or even a planning application before you begin.

But for many homeowners, informing your home insurer of the work is often overlooked, which could have dire consequences should something go wrong. I spoke to multiple home insurance experts about what a homeowner should do and what the potential repercussions could be of ignoring this crucial step in the process.

What are the consequences of not informing your home insurer of your plans to knock down walls?

There can be very serious consequences if you don't inform your insurer about your wall removal plans, especially if something goes wrong.

‘Most home insurance policies require homeowners to disclose any significant structural changes, including knocking down internal walls, before any renovation work begins,' says Matt Durrant, Insurance Expert and Managing Director of i4me. 'Failing to do so could result in your policy being voided entirely, which means you’re not covered for any claims, even if they are unrelated to the renovation works.'

This could be an especially costly mistake if you don't correctly identify a wall as load bearing before you attempt to remove it. This could lead to significant structural defects, which your insurer may not pay out for.

Nathan Blackler, spokesperson for Go.Compare Home insurance agrees: ‘Making structural changes to your home, like knocking down internal walls, might seem straightforward, but if you don’t tell your home insurance provider, you could risk invalidating your home insurance policy.

‘Standard buildings and contents home insurance doesn’t always cover major renovations or structural work, so it’s really important to check what is and isn’t covered in your home insurance policy before you pick up the sledgehammer. Even smaller jobs could raise issues - for example, if you’re doing the work yourself, you might not be covered for accidental damage like hitting a water pipe.'

If you fail to speak to your insurer, you also run the risk of potentially being underinsured when your renovation work is complete. ‘Major works, such as creating new rooms or extensions, can increase the value and therefore increase the rebuild cost,' says Matt. 'If your policy doesn’t reflect this, there could be a shortfall in cover in the event of a major claim or total loss.’

How can you make sure you are properly protected?

To ensure you remain adequately covered by your insurance provider, you will need to contact them with specific details as to what you plan on doing, how much it is likely to cost, and how long the work is expected to take. Ask whether the work is covered by your existing policy.

‘They will confirm if they can cover you while the work is being done, or if you need to seek separate specialist renovation insurance,' explains Emma Myrie, Lead Underwriter at specialist home insurer, Homeprotect. 'They will review your existing policy and make any necessary revisions, helping ensure your home remains adequately covered throughout the project.'

Go.Compare's Nathan continues: 'If your works are relatively minor, your current policy might cover you or you might need to pay a small additional premium to boost your protection. But get in touch with your insurer to make sure you understand exactly what is covered.

'Plans inevitably change along the way during a renovation project, so make sure you keep your insurer informed. It's not worth taking a risk of not being properly insured on your home, which for many is their biggest financial asset.'

What additional insurance might be required?

In some cases, a standard home insurance policy might not provide enough cover in which case you will need specialist renovation insurance.

You might even need additional insurance, as Emma explains: 'You should also consider public liability insurance to protect yourself against potential claims for injury or damage to third parties during the construction.

'If the renovations are significant and require you to vacate the property, you’ll likely need unoccupied home insurance while the house is empty. Once the work is completed, don’t forget to update your policy and increase your sum insured to reflect the improved or expanded home.’

If it's your first time knocking down a wall, then heed the advice of a serial renovator who shared the lessons she learned from doing the same thing.

If you need to create more space or improve the flow of your home, without resorting to an extension, then altering (or removing) internal walls is worth considering. But you'll need to know what a load-bearing wall actually is and how you can tell if a wall is load-bearing before you start.

When it comes to how to remove an internal wall, the process can be surprisingly complex, especially if the wall you want to remove happens to support the weight of something above. So it's crucial that you do your research and use the experience and knowledge of professionals to avoid wall removal mistakes and ensure you can remove the wall safely.

I asked the experts to share their load-bearing wall expertise to get you started.

What is a load-bearing wall?

There are two types of internal wall – load-bearing and non load-bearing. Determining which type of wall you are working with is the most important step you can take before knocking it down.

'A load-bearing wall is a structural element that supports the weight of the building above it, including floors, ceilings, roof structures, and sometimes additional loads like furniture or people,' says Elli Kiely, Design & Innovation Director at HJK Construction. 'These walls help distribute the weight safely down to the foundations, ensuring the building’s stability.'

But not every internal wall in your home will be load-bearing. Some will be simple partition walls to divide up the space rather than carrying any structural weight.

Non load-bearing walls can be removed relatively easily, but if you tried to alter a load-bearing wall without realising it was load-bearing, you could find yourself inadvertently causing serious structural damage to your home. So it's absolutely crucial you know what kind of wall you are dealing with. 'Never assume a wall is non-load-bearing without professional verification,' advises Elli.

How can you tell if a wall is load-bearing?

It can be really difficult to identify a load-bearing wall yourself, especially as you can't definitively tell if a wall is load-bearing just by looking at it, or hearing the sound it makes when it's knocked on.

But there are certain characteristics you can look out for to help you identify a load-bearing wall, as Elli Kiely explains:

• Wall orientation and location: 'Load-bearing walls are often perpendicular to floor joists or roof trusses, whereas partition walls tend to run parallel to them.'
• Thickness and material: 'Structural walls tend to be thicker and made of brick, block, or timber framing.' However, a non load-bearing wall could also be made of brick or blockwork, so make sure you check for other indicators too.
• Positioning: 'External walls are almost always load-bearing. Internally, walls that run through the centre of the house or align with walls above or below are likely to be structural.'
• Presence of beams or columns: 'If a beam, steel lintel, or column is exposed above the wall, it’s likely carrying a load.'
• Blueprints or structural plans: 'Checking the original construction drawings or consulting an architect or structural engineer is the most reliable way to confirm.'

Even if you are pretty confident you can identify a load-bearing wall, it is best to check with a professional. 'Relying solely on these indicators can be risky. Always confirm with a structural engineer,' says Thomas Oldham, co-founder of the UK Construction Blog. 'It is a lesson learned the hard way, best avoided.'

Your structural engineer may need to lift floorboards, remove plaster or open up the ceiling in order to correctly determine if a wall is load-bearing.

FAQs

Can you remove a load-bearing wall?

If you are worried that your remodelling plans will be put on hold after you've identified a load-bearing wall, then the good news is they won't be. It is still possible to alter or remove a load-bearing wall.

However, the project will require careful planning to ensure the structural integrity of the property is maintained both during the work and afterwards. This will involve specialist knowledge from a structural engineer who will calculate what kind and size of beam you need to support the load, and ensure the beam meets the requirements of the building regulations. This could be an RSJ (rolled steel joist), timber or concrete.

This is not usually a task for a DIYer, so best to call on a pro. 'Incorrectly removing a load-bearing wall can cause severe structural damage, including ceiling collapse or foundation issues,' reinforces Elli. 'Always consult a structural engineer or qualified contractor before proceeding with any alterations.'

It's crucial that you carefully weigh up the pros and cons of removing a wall before you commit. If you do plan on removing an internal wall, take advantage of the lessons learned by a serial renovator who had been there, done it, and got the improved home to show for it.

Having renovated several old houses in dire need of modernisation over the years, I'm not fazed by removing walls – in fact, it has often been one of my favourite parts of these transformations.

That said, there have been some surprises along the way that have not been altogether welcome and, in some cases, that have thrown the project off schedule and added to costs. Perhaps if I had researched how to remove an internal wall a little more thoroughly prior to work commencing I would have been better prepared.

With that in mind, I want to share with you the five things I wish someone had told me before getting stuck into this element of the project – hopefully this will save you any feelings of despondency when you are knee deep in rubble.

1. Listen to your structural engineer

I know, I know – this sounds so obvious. Who in their right minds would call in the services of a structural engineer only to ignore their advice...? Well, us, as it turned out.

The wall in question here was one that separated the original tiny hallway from an adjacent coal store. We wanted to remove it to absorb the store into the internal layout to give us the opportunity to explore some more spacious hallway ideas.

This wall was load bearing, supporting the wall above, plus the joists above were resting on it. Additionally, the room above the old coal store was to become a new bathroom, so the weight of the bath when full of water needed to be taken into account. The advice of the structural engineer was to insert a metal box lintel to take the load.

We were carrying out the work on a DIY basis and, in the name of aesthetics, decided to use a concrete lintel instead. This was mainly because the depth of the concrete lintel was far less than that of the metal box lintel meaning it would encroach less on the volume of the new hallway.

Sadly (and completely unsurprisingly) the building inspector who came out to sign the work off, was not impressed. We had to change it, which ended up adding to costs and causing extra disruption. The takeaway? Listen to your structural engineer.

2. Ensure good lines of communication

Another issue that could have been avoided here. When we moved in, the kitchen was nothing more than a single-skin brickwork lean-to with one cabinet, a sink and a mini fridge.

We knocked this down and built a single storey extension, removing the wall that once sat between the old dining room and the lean-to. This was load bearing, carrying the weight of the external wall above, meaning significant structural support was needed. Our structural engineer once again carried out the calculations.

However, somewhere between him and our builders, there was confusion – namely when it came to the size of the padstone required for the new supporting steel to sit on.

A padstone is a concrete (or stone) block which is used to ensure the weight of a beam or lintel is evenly distributed onto the supporting wall. In short, it is incredibly important when it comes to keeping the whole building structurally sound.

When our building inspector visited, it was found that the builders had used a padstone too small for the job. Once again, work had to be undone and a padstone of the correct size inserted – more mess, more expense.

3. Damp proofing might be necessary

If the internal wall you are removing is solid brickwork (as opposed to a cavity or stud wall), you may well find a damp proof course within it. You can't just ignore this – it is doing an important job in keeping damp at bay.

As our house was built in 1915, beneath our floor coverings is simply bare soil – meaning damp proofing is crucial. While not all houses will have DPCs within their internal walls, some of the solid walls here did.

This meant that when when we took them out, we needed to add damp proofing measures to the newly exposed floor. As we were replacing all the flooring anyway, this wasn't too much of an issue, but it was definitely something we hadn't banked on. Speak to your building inspector for advice on how to do this so that it complies with the building regulations.

4. It will make an almighty mess

Think about how much mess you might expect knocking down an internal wall to make – then multiply that by about 50. A flimsy dust sheet and an open window is not going to cut it.

We lived in our house throughout the renovation work and nothing made more dust and mess that the removal of the internal walls. Even with doors shut, furniture covered and plastic sheeting hung between rooms, dust found a way to get absolutely everywhere. It even managed to get upstairs when the wall being removed was downstairs.

In all honesty, there wasn't much more we could have done to prevent the spread of mess, although next time I would definitely invest in some professional grade dust guards for the doors. Investing in one of the best vacuum cleaners would have helped too rather than relying on our ancient model.

Shop dust minimisers

5. You might not want to remove the whole wall

There have been cases where I wonder if we needed to remove the whole wall. For example, when we renovated our Victorian house some years ago, we removed the wall that stood between the living and dining room to explore some open plan living room ideas.

On reflection, it may have better to simply make an opening within the wall rather than to take the whole thing out. As it was, all the kitchen noise travelled straight through the dining room and into the living area.

In our current house, we removed the external wall to the dining room when we extended out to the side for a snug/spare bedroom. We kept it open between the two spaces and are now considering fitting some steel-framed Crittall-style doors between the two for a little more division.

FAQs

Do you need planning permission to knock down a wall?

You won't usually need planning permission to knock down an internal wall as it will fall under permitted development.

However, if you live in a listed building, you will need permission. Plus, whether or not planning permission is required, you will almost always need building regulations approval to remove load-bearing walls.

How much does it cost to remove an internal wall?

How much it costs to remove an internal wall very much depends on who is carrying out the work and the type of wall you are removing – load bearing or non-load bearing (like a partition wall).

To remove a load bearing wall, Checkatrade estimate that it will cost between £1,250-£1,750. You will also need to factor in structural engineer fees which can cost anything between £300-£500 + VAT, depending on their level of involvement. Don't forget materials either – factor in the cost of an RSJ (£800-£950) as well as damp proofing if needed and final decoration.

There are lots of reasons why removing an internal wall will be necessary, including to make open plan kitchen ideas possible. Although it can be a DIY job, be sure to get the proper structural advice first.

Concerned about flooding? You're not alone; it is a growing concern in the UK. However, making a few changes to your driveway ideas can help reduce your flood risk by increasing the drainage outside your home.

A recent report from the Environment Agency says that around 4.6 million homes are at risk of flooding, with predictions estimating that this figure could be as high as one in four households by 2050.

All is not lost, though; there are clever solutions available that can help ease flooding problems. Permeable pavers are one option; however, for a highly permeable and more sustainable driveway, grass paving is set to be a game changer.

What are grass pavers

Grass paving, also known as grow-through paving, is a unique driveway material. Typically made from concrete that has been cast to create a grid or lattice pattern, it is designed to help improve drainage in a garden.

The pavers provide hard standing for parking while letting grass grow in the negative spaces. If resurfacing a driveway, grass pavers are a great option to reduce flooding and improve the sustainability of your garden.

Reported to be as easy to install as traditional pavers – Pavestone has a step-by-step installation guide – the pavers are laid on a compacted MOT Type 1 sub base. This can be done DIY or by professionals, depending on your confidence and your available time and budget. Once installed, the gaps between the pavers need to be filled with soil and seeds.

One important thing to note is that if planning to swap a driveway – such as a gravel driveway – for grass pavers, you need to choose the best time to get your driveway done, which is usually in late spring or summer.

Alice Turner, product specialist at Marshalls, predicts that grass pavers will slowly become a common option for driveways up and down the country. 'We will likely see more homeowners opting for permeable paving and grass-guard driveways, both offering natural filtration for the anticipated British rainfall. Searches for ‘grass pavers for driveway’ have increased by 53% in the last year, with more homeowners looking to mitigate flooding whilst maintaining the natural aesthetics of grass areas.'

Benefits of grass pavers over traditional tarmac

1. Reduce risk of flooding

The main benefit of grass pavers over tarmac is their increased permeability. 'Paving, tarmac and concrete can increase the amount of rainwater that runs off by as much as 50 per cent,’ says Dr Nicholas Cryer, environmental horticulture expert at the RHS.

With these pavers, the water passes through the driveway and into the subsoil below. 'This allows rainfall to naturally soak into the ground and prevents it from running off into unwanted areas (such as the street at the front of your home), which could contribute to localised flooding during downpours,' explains experts from Paving Direct.

If you're not ready to repave your driveway, this style of paving could also be used to create front garden paths and help to improve lawn drainage.

2. Reduce pollution

The benefits of grass pavers aren't limited to just reducing flood risk – they also help reduce water pollution.

'Hard surfaces such as concrete and asphalt collect pollution (oil, petrol and brake dust) that is washed off into the drains. Many drains carry rainwater directly to streams or rivers where the pollution damages wildlife,’ add the resin driveway experts at Erinstone. However, with these pavers, the subsoil helps to filter out pollution, preventing it from contaminating the waterways.

3. More aesthetic than traditional driveways

Grass pavers also offer a more aesthetic alternative to traditional driveways. This style of paver is a great way to put your stamp on your front garden, as the pavers are available in a range of patterned designs – something that is on the up.

'Driveways play a huge part in the kerb appeal of a property, with well-maintained pavers making the house more attractive to onlookers and potential buyers. Searches for ‘patterned driveways’ have grown by 53% over the past year, so we’ll likely see homeowners have more creative input in their driveway’s appearance,' says Alice Turner, product specialist at Marshalls.

Grass paver designs include classic square or diamond layouts as well as more decorative concentric circles or modern waves. Grass Park Virage available from Paving Direct, permeable block paving have nine different laying patterns – letting you choose the right design for your space.

This creates a more discreet and decorative alternative to expansive areas of grey in front of your house.

4. Avoid planning permission

As grass pavers are permeable, this style of driveway doesn't need planning permission as it will be classed as permitted development.

This is something confirmed by the experts at Paving Direct: 'if you are using permeable paving to pave your own domestic driveway or area at the front of your property, then you can do so without applying for planning permission.'

This will save you both time and money in your renovation project.

What to grow between pavers?

Grass is the typical choice for filling these pavers – often chosen for its easy availability, efficient growth pattern and affordability. The addition of grass (or other plants) makes this one of the only pollinator-friendly driveway materials.

Your choice of grass seed will depend on your needs. Fast-growing seeds will quickly create a beautiful, lush mat, but it will need mowing more frequently. Slower-growing grass – such as Boston Seeds' Grass for Slow Growing Lawns available on Amazon –takes longer to establish but will need less care in the long run.

With either type of grass seed, be sure you know the best time to sow grass seed and that you know when to start cutting grass after winter for the greatest chance of success.

Grass is not the only option, though; also consider low-growing ground cover plants for added colour and character. One thing to note when opting for these plants is that they need to grow lower than the top of the pavers, so as not to be destroyed by the cars.

Regardless of which plant you choose, the secret to making this style of driveway stand out is to ensure that each plug is fully filled. You want to create a lush carpet of planting, without any visibly bare soil.

Plants to try:

• Creeping Thyme (available at hayloft) - It will quickly establish a carpet of purple, which not only looks beautiful but will also attract pollinators.
• Mint 'Corsican' (available at Dobies) - It is a quick-growing ground cover (reaching between 2 and 7cm tall) that can thrive between pavers.
• Micro White Clover (available at B&Q) - Clover offers a lower maintenance alternative to grass. It is drought resistant and will quickly form a lush matt between pavers.

For a super low-maintenance option, consider filling the gaps in the pavers with gravel – such as Tarmac 10mm gravel from B&Q. This still offers good absorption of rainwater and will reduce run off – to help prevent flooding – but it is a less sustainable garden option.

Are grass pavers worth the price?

If resurfacing a driveway, the budget will be a key consideration. The downside of these pavers is that they carry one of the highest costs of resurfacing a driveway

The rough price per square metre is around £80 – CJC Aggregates stocks its Virage Grasspark for £82.54 per square metre. You then also need to factor in the price of MOT Type 1 sub base and the potential hire of a compacting tool.

For a more affordable alternative, Etsy stocks a range of DIY moulds that will let you create your own concrete paving blocks for a fraction of the cost, though this will take more time.

Getting to grips with how to remove an internal wall is a skill well worth learning if you are planning on renovating a house, remodelling or extending.

Not only do the layouts of old houses often not suit modern lifestyles, but natural light can also be an issue. Taking out internal walls can open up a floorplan as well as allowing light to flow throughout previously warren-like spaces.

While this is a job undertaken by many DIYers (I've knocked down plenty myself), that can sometimes be a mistake and there are instances where it can be better to call in the professionals. In this guide, I explain the process of knocking down an internal wall, what you need to check beforehand, how long it is likely to take and cost, as well as the steps you can take to ensure the project is a safe and productive one.

What should you check before removing an internal wall?

Before you pull out that sledgehammer in order to realise your open plan living room ideas, there are a couple of factors to bear in mind if you want to ensure this is a job that goes smoothly and safely.

'First, you must determine whether the wall is structural (load bearing or non-load bearing) and check for hidden services such as plumbing or electrical wiring,' explains Farook Member, director and home improvement expert at QS Supplies. 'You can do this using a cable detector or by opening up a little inspection hole.'

'Often people think is just a case of knocking on the wall and checking if it is solid, or looking to see if there is a wall directly above – this is not always enough,' explains architect Tina Patel of Architect Your Home. 'Even if there is no wall directly overhead, the wall you want to remove could be supporting floor joists, so ill-considered removal could have serious implications for keeping the structure standing.'

You should also carefully weight up the pros and cons of knocking down a wall to make sure it's the right choice.

How to remove an internal stud wall step-by-step

If you have determined your wall is a non load-bearing partition wall and decided you feel confident knocking it down on a DIY basis, here are the steps you'll need to take to remove a stud wall.

1. Check for pipes and cables and decommission any that are present to ensure they are no longer live.
2. Put sheets and door seals in place to stop dust from travelling between rooms.
3. Using a sharp utility knife, make cuts along the lines where the wall meets the ceiling and any adjoining walls in order to minimise damage to them.
4. You can now remove skirting boards and any other mouldings on the walls and begin to take off the plasterboard covering the wall. A sledgehammer, small reciprocating saw and crowbar will all prove useful here.
5. With all the plasterboard gone you should be able to see the full timber structure of the wall. Use your saw to cut through the studs and frame and pry them away.
6. Finally, using your crowbar, carefully remove the timber top plate (the section attached to the ceiling) with the aim of minimising any damage to the ceiling. You can then remove the bottom plate.
7. Clear and clean the area. You might need to call in a plasterer to tidy up any damage to the surrounding walls. You will also need to think about how you will finish off the floor where the wall once stood.

Stud wall removal toolkit essentials

How to remove a solid non-load bearing brick wall

If the wall you are removing is solid brick or block, things are going to be a little messier in terms of the dust and rubble generated and you are much more likely to need to hire a skip.

Start by following steps 1 and 2 above, arm yourself with a hammer and bolster, then:

1. Remove some of the plasterboard from the ceiling either side of the wall (around 20 inches) up to the point where it joins the wall.
2. Remove any door frames and mouldings if present, sawing them into sections and using a crowbar to prise them free.
3. Next, starting at the top of the wall, you want to carefully and methodically begin to remove bricks. Steel toe boots and a hard hat are highly recommended.
4. Continue demolishing the wall, using your hammer and bolster and, if necessary, a sledgehammer or hammer drill. If possible, work row by row, stripping plaster away as you go and regularly clearing the floor of obstacles.
5. Clear away the opening and get ready for plastering and redecoration.

Brick wall removal essentials

Can I remove an internal wall myself?

While not necessarily an easy DIY project, many homeowners do decide to tackle the task of internal wall removal themselves. That said, there are a few points to consider before deciding to shun professional input.

'There can be multiple factors to consider and although it may appear to be straightforward, DIY removal can have catastrophic consequences if professional advice isn't sought,' warns Tina Patel.

If the wall in question is found to be non load-bearing, DIY removal can usually be carried out safely providing you arm yourself with the right equipment and tools for the job.

'If the wall doesn't have a load-bearing responsibility, a talented DIYer should be able to safely remove it,' says Farook Member. 'Remember, you still have to check for hidden pipes or wires and exercise caution.'

When to call in the pros

However, if the wall is load bearing, you should definitely call in a structural engineer as they will be able to specify a beam or lintel of the correct size. Often, this will also be a requirement of building control and you could find yourself unable to get a completion certificate for the work without these calculations.

Once the wall has been determined to be non load-bearing – preferably by a structural engineer or trusted builder – there is usually no need for a structural engineer's calculations.

Do you need planning permission to knock down internal walls?

Planning permission will not usually be required to remove an internal wall, even if it is load bearing. However, if you live in a listed building, permission will most likely be required for this kind of alteration.

If the work is likely to affect a wall you share with your neighbour, you may need to take into account the Party Wall Act too.

'Often, the removal of existing elements and the insertion of new structural members will result in a Party Wall Notice needing to be served to the neighbours,' explains Tina Patel.

'This could be because you are digging close to the party wall, or if you are inserting new steelwork into the shared wall between properties. It is important to follow the party wall process properly as this protects both you and the neighbour in the event the builder manages to damage the property next door. Remember, it is a preventative measure that safeguards all and is best have in place – accidents do happen.'

What are the building regs for removing internal walls?

Even if planning permission isn't required to remove your internal wall, building regulations approval will be if it is a load-bearing wall that is coming out.

'It is highly likely that the safe removal of a load-bearing wall will require a building regulations application,' advises Tina Patel. 'This considers that what is being proposed structurally will not compromise the safety of the house and the level above.'

It isn't just the removal of load-bearing walls that might require building regs approval. If the walls in question provide any kind of fire protection, building control will also need to be involved, for instance in the case of walls surrounding a staircase leading out from a loft conversion.

How much does it cost to knock down an internal wall

The cost of removing an internal wall will depend on a few different factors, including whether it is load-bearing or not, the size of the wall you want to remove and whether you do the work yourself or not.

To open up a single doorway in non load-bearing wall, My Job Quote estimates that it will cost an average of £1,250. For a double doorway, this rises to £1,500, and then £1,750 to open up a larger wall and create an open plan.

For a load-bearing wall, you will need to add on the cost of a structural engineer (around £200 per visit), the RSJ which can cost in the region of £800 to £950, and the Building Notice (the cost of which will depend on the scope of your project and your local authority).

If you live a listed building, you will need to apply for planning consent too which will add to the cost.

FAQs

How long does it take to remove an internal wall?

Once the wall has been assessed and any structural calculations have been carried out, the actual physical removal, as well as the insertion of a support, should take no more than a day.

You will then have to factor in plastering, which you can expect to take another day and, finally, decoration. If you are removing the wall for something like an open plan kitchen, now is your time to get creative with colour.

Keen to take a wholly DIY approach towards your remodel? Research how to paint a wall properly for a finish to be proud of.

When I moved into my house more than a decade ago, I was thrilled to have enough off-road parking for two cars.

When it comes to driveway materials, a portion (about a third) of the drive is tarmac, and the other two thirds (that used to be grass) were replaced with gravel by the previous owners. I've always appreciated the fact I don't have to mow a lawn out the front as well as the back.

But after living with the gravel driveway for more than 10 years, there are definitely things I still love about it, but there are also a set of niggles that make me long for a different material instead.

If you're thinking about resurfacing your driveway with gravel, make sure you're aware of the advantages and drawbacks so you can make the right decision.

Reasons I love my gravel driveway

• Provides extra off-road parking space. I have a tarmac part of the drive that gives enough space to park one car, but thanks to the gravel, there is enough space to park another car and keep the road clear.
• Inexpensive to replenish. If parts of the gravel start to look a bit bare, I can buy a bag of additional gravel, like this from B&Q for less than £5.
• Easy to lay. Adding extra gravel is super easy, I just slit the bag open over the spare area and use either a stiff bristled broom or rake to smooth them out.
• Great for drainage. There's no danger of water pooling on the gravel, it just seeps right through.
• Good from a security perspective. When my car is parked on the tarmac portion of the drive, any visitors have to walk on the gravel to reach the house. While I found this less than ideal when I first moved in (I desperately wanted to add a proper pathway), I now love the fact that I can hear if anyone is approaching the house, especially at night with the window open.

Reasons I loathe my gravel driveway

• The gravel goes everywhere. It feels like a constant effort to keep the gravel where it's meant to be, and it can quickly go from looking neat and tidy to looking an absolute mess. I also regularly get some stuck in the treads of my shoes.
• Weeds. The gravel driveway has been there since I moved in, and while there is a weed membrane underneath, it's starting to fail and so the weeds are having a field day.
• It's not the prettiest. The gravel on my drive isn't necessarily what I would have chosen myself, and I know there are much nicer looking gravel options available that I would prefer.
• I've slipped on it. My gravel driveway is on a bit of a slope, and while I walk across it daily without problem, there have been a couple of times where the gravel has rolled underfoot (or has even frozen) and I've lost my balance.

What I wish I had instead

As with many homeowners, I have a very long list of things I would like to do to my house (just waiting for that lotto win, any day now). And resurfacing the driveway is on that list.

I love the patterns you can create with block paving, but don't think the permeability can match what I have with gravel, and I don't want to have to worry about pooling water on my slightly sloped frontage. Plus my best friend has things she both loves and loathes about her block paved driveway.

Tarmac is also an option, but understanding the pros and cons of a tarmac driveway makes me think it may not be suitable.

Resin bound gravel holds particular appeal for me, especially thanks to its durability, permeability and low maintenance. Plus there are loads of colour options to choose from and it would solve a lot of the issues I have with the current gravel.

But with one of the disadvantages of resin driveways being it's relatively high initial cost, it's unlikely I'll get round to it any time soon.

As one of the most integral parts of any house, avoiding roofing mistakes is so important if you want to ensure your home remains dry and comfortable, looks beautiful and protects you properly from the elements.

When carrying out roof replacement or repairs, it is important to be aware that roofs are made up of far more than you see, meaning while the covering you choose is incredibly important, it is crucial to look at the structure as a whole – in short, there is a lot going on under the surface that also needs to be considered.

Given its prominent position and pivotal role in protecting your home, we asked the experts for the mistakes they commonly see homeowners making so you can avoid doing the same.

1. Prioritising cost over quality

This is a huge one – choosing the wrong materials, including roof tiles based on cost alone. Don't let seeking the cheapest materials for your roof result in something that looks all wrong or that needs replacing just a few months later, leaving you to hope your roof insurance will cover the extra work.

'One thing I see a lot is people going ahead with a new roof but picking materials just because they’re cheap or look nice, without thinking if they’re right for the property,' explains Ben Mansfield, property expert and co-founder of Apex Innovations. "The wrong tiles or poor-quality felt can cause issues down the line – leaks, heat loss or even damage to the roof structure.'

'I recently inspected a period home where the natural Welsh slate roof had been replaced with a cheaper fibre-cement alternative, a move driven by cost rather than compatibility,' picks up building surveyor, and founder of Fourth Wall, Joshua Weston. 'Not only did the new material clash visually, it also lacked the durability of its predecessor, with visible signs of deterioration after just 10 years.'

2. Assuming all materials are created equal

This brings us nicely on to the next point – failing to research roofing materials properly. This is about far more than just the kerb appeal of your home, but also how it performs

'Homeowners often assume slate is slate, or a roofing tile is a roofing tile, but quality varies widely,' explains Joshua Weston. 'Imported or artificial slates may not meet the same performance standards, and in listed or conservation areas, they may not comply with planning conditions or heritage constraints. The key is to match both the technical specification and aesthetic. In wetter regions or on low-pitched roofs, heavier slates or clay tiles with appropriate overlap are typically more robust.

'Always check with your contractor what materials they are pricing for when they provide a quote,' continues Joshua. 'And consult technical data sheets and check suitability with the manufacturer before making your final choice. Where in doubt, take advice from a qualified professional.'

3. Overlooking the underlying structure

The tiles or slates you choose to cover your roof are just one element – the structure itself also needs to be taken into account.

'People often focus on the outer layer but skip assessing the roof timbers or existing insulation,' points out Ben Mansfield. 'If that stuff is in poor condition, you’re just putting a new roof over old problems.'

Everything from the condition of the timber used to form the roof's structure to its insulation and ventilation need to be assessed when carrying out replacement or repair.

4. Failing to understand the cost of a new roof

Just how much does a new roof cost? If you still aren't sure, do your research early on to avoid running into problems later down the line.

'It’s easy to focus on the headline quote when planning roof works, but that can be just the start and without a clear breakdown you can't be sure what you're actually going to get,' warns Joshua Weston. 'Clients frequently overlook hidden costs: scaffold access (especially over conservatories or public highways), skip hire, waste permits, and even temporary protection for internal finishes.

'In several cases, I’ve seen works delayed mid-way due to an unexpected need for insulation upgrades, triggered by Building Regs compliance,' continues Joshua. 'To avoid this, I recommend budgeting with a detailed cost plan and price breakdown from your contractor.

'Here’s an example guide for a typical 3-bed semi:

• Strip and re-tile: £6,000–£10,000
• Scaffolding: £800–£2,000
• Insulation upgrades (where required): £500–£1,500
• Waste removal and site clearance: £300–£700
• Contingency: 10–15% of total

5. Leaving old insulation in place

Whether you are looking at complete roof replacement or simply a few repairs or upgrades, checking the existing insulation is key to the success of the final result.

There are lots of different loft insulation methods. It is well worth upgrading your home’s roof insulation to 270mm in thickness – the building regulations required minimum depth for new builds.

'When it comes to insulation, it’s worth knowing that millions of UK households qualify for government-funded upgrades through the ECO4 scheme,' points out Ben Mansfield. 'If your home’s EPC rating is D or lower, and you’re on a low income or receive certain benefits, you could get up to £10,000 worth of insulation and heating improvements for free – including loft insulation and room-in-roof insulation. It’s a huge help, especially if you’re already doing major work like a new roof.'

6. Forgetting about roof ventilation

Poor ventilation in the roof can cause all kinds of serious issues – loft condensation included – if not dealt with.

'Ventilation is often forgotten in roof refurbishments – until the consequences appear,' warns Joshua Weston. 'I’ve inspected everything from post-war bungalows to Edwardian terraces where poor airflow has led to moisture build-up, internal mould, and even hidden structural decay. It’s a particular issue in pre-1945 homes, where modern insulation retrofits clash with older construction methods.

'The solution isn’t one-size-fits-all,' continues Joshua. 'Options like tile vents, ridge vents, or soffit detailing may be suitable, but what’s essential is a holistic design tailored to the property’s needs. I strongly recommend engaging a qualified retrofit assessor under PAS 2035 to ensure any upgrade considers ventilation, insulation, and moisture control as a single system. It’s a small investment that protects the whole property.'

7. Choosing an unvetted contractor

As an integral part of your home's structure, you really need to looking into how to find a good builder and be sure that whoever you get in to carry out repairs or upgrades to your roof can be trusted to carry out the work properly.

'There’s no shortage of horror stories about roofing jobs gone wrong; from rushed installations to entire roofs needing replacement due to poor workmanship,' says Joshua Weston. 'While online trade directories are popular, they can’t replace direct recommendations.

'I advise homeowners to do their homework: ask for contactable references, check public liability insurance (minimum £2m), and insist on a written JCT Minor Works contract,' continues Joshua. 'Be wary of red flags such as large deposits, vague pricing, or contractors who can 'start tomorrow' – all should raise eyebrows. A good contractor won’t rush you, will be happy to put everything in writing, and will have a paper trail of successful jobs. Don’t leave your roof to chance and vet carefully.'

8. Neglecting building regulations requirements

And, finally, never ignore the requirements of the building regulations when it comes to your new roof. These regs are there for a reason.

'One of the most common oversights I encounter is failing to notify Building Control when replacing a roof,' reveals Joshua Weston. 'Many homeowners – and even some contractors – don’t realise that significant roof works must comply with Part L of the Building Regulations, particularly regarding insulation upgrades.

'I've seen property sales delayed because a compliance certificate wasn't issued at the time of the work,' continues Joshua. 'Although homeowners can make the application themselves, I’d advise against leaving this to the builder. Either manage it personally or ask your surveyor to oversee it. Retrospective approval (known as regularisation) is possible, but it's time-consuming and potentially costly. Far easier to do it right the first time and have the paperwork in place when it matters most.'

FAQs

What are the signs that a roof needs replacing?

Even if you are aware how to maintain your roof, there will come a time when it may well need repairing.

You should be on the lookout for water leaks, light coming into your loft through the roof, moss growth or mould on your roof tiles, missing tiles and signs of sagging. All indicate issues.

Once your roof is in tiptop condition, how about looking into some loft conversion ideas to see whether you could be making more use of this often-overlooked area of your home?

There are few architectural features that determine your home’s character to the same extent as the type of roof it has.

As well as informing the aesthetic of your home, the roof is essential when it comes to protecting your house from the elements. It plays an important role in energy efficiency, too, and can even impact on applications for planning permission. And if you need to replace your roof, it'll be useful to know.

Here, we break down the key differences between the main types of roof seen in the UK, as well as outlining some of the telltale signs to look out for when determining which type your home has.

What are the different types of roof?

With such a plethora of styles and shapes available – in addition to hybrid structures that incorporate multiple types of roof formation within one structure – it can be confusing to know which type of roof sits on top of your home.

Below we've listed the most common types to help you identify yours.

Gable roof

One of the most popular and most recognisable styles in the UK, a gable roof comprises two equal size sloping roof faces that meet at the ridge (the horizontal peak at the top of the roof). A gable roof is a go-to choice for homes with a standard rectangular floorplan, with the two gable walls (the triangular-shaped section of wall at either end of a ridged structure) reaching all the way up to the top of the roof. The other two walls extend up to gutter level.

'It’s simple, efficient for shedding water and allows for spacious lofts, which are ideal for conversions,' says Trevor Fisher from Tuakana Construction.

The design of a gable roof is fairly straightforward, so if you’re looking to make your roof a standout design feature this might not be your first choice. Plus, gable roofs are more prone to wind damage than some other designs so require robust support.

Hip roofs

This type of roof slopes down on all four sides, usually with two trapezoid shaped planes on the long sides of the property and two triangle shape roof faces on the short sides of the house, with no vertical sections in the structure.

'It’s more stable in high winds than a gable roof and offers a pleasing, balanced appearance,' says Trevor. 'It’s perfect for suburban villas and detached homes.'

There are several design variations within the hipped roof category, including a crossed hip, which incorporates an additional perpendicular hip section to form either an L- or T-shaped structure.

On the plus side, this style of roof offers an attractive, traditional aesthetic and is more wind resistant. However, it’s slightly more expensive to build than a gabled roof as more construction materials are needed. They’re also more labour intensive to construct due to the more complex nature of the rafters and trusses.

Hip to gable roofs are common on semi-detached properties. 'It involves extending the sloping hip of a roof into a vertical gable wall, creating more internal headroom and a boxier loft, ideal for growing families who need extra space,' says Trevor.

Similar downsides include the additional construction materials required for this type of structure, in addition to the extra labour needed to build the more complex structure.

Hip and valley roofs

Though similar to a hipped roof in terms of its design, this type of structure is ideally suited to homes with floorplans more complicated than a basic rectangle.

Rather than the rectangular shape of a standard hipped roof, a hip and valley roof is formed of a T- or L-shaped plan comprised of an additional hip roof, which intersects with the main roof structure. This setup means there’s an extra ridge, which joins the main ridge of the roof at the same height.

While this type of roof is a good fit for homes with a non-standard footprint shape, they are more prone to leaks due to the multiple seams in the roof structure. They’re also more costly to build because of the special roofing knowledge and extra building materials that are required.

Mansard roofs

Named after architect Francois Mansart, this type of structure originated in 17^th century France. The structure is made up a double-pitched slope on all four sides of the property, where the bottom slope is much steeper than the one above.

'It maximises usable attic space, which makes it a smart choice for townhouses and urban builds craving volume,' says Trevor.

On the downside, the structural complexity of mansard roofs means they’re significantly more expensive to build in comparison to gable or hip roofs. Plus, they’re not ideally suited to regions with heavy rain or snowfall, as the shallower nature of the top plane can lead to the accumulation of water. The multiple angles of the roof structure and induvial dormers can make maintenance trickier, too.

Dormer roofs

Though not a type of roof within itself, dormers are often the structural solution for people carrying out loft extensions. Essentially, they are formed from a mini gable roof which projects out from the plane of the main roof at a 90° angle. There’s usually a window on the vertical gable end of the dormer. The dormer structure can feature a flat or pitched roof.

They’re a great solution to add more floorspace to one-and-a-half storey homes, dormer bungalows and loft extensions. The window within the gable end of the structure also provides ample opportunity to bring natural light into your home’s loft.

However, dormers tend to cost more than standard flat, gable and hip roofs due to design complexities. The presence of the window means they need more maintenance, too.

Flat roofs

Despite the name, ‘flat’ roofs are not actually flat – they always feature a slight gradient that allows water to run off the roof’s surface and prevent pooling. Though they suffered from a bad reputation for leaking in the past due to poor design, modern flat roofs offer a unique aesthetic, ideally suited to contemporary homes.

They can be finished in numerous materials, including metal, single-ply membranes or even a layer of sedum, providing further opportunities to make a design statement – or even build a rooftop patio. They’re also easy to construct.

Despite the slight gradient that allows for liquid run-off, there’s no getting away from the fact that this type of structure will never drain as efficiently as a pitched roof, increasing the risk of water pooling and potential leaks. Typically, they have a shorter lifespan compared to sloping roofs, too.

Green roofs

Well-suited to flat or low-pitch roofs, green roofs are topped with a layer of vegetation, such as sedum or wildflowers. They’re particularly popular for flat roof extensions, as they provide a green outlook for people looking down towards the garden from the upper storeys of the house.

'They also help to improve insulation, reduce runoff and support biodiversity,' says Trevor. 'While they’re increasingly popular for their eco benefits, they add significant weight. Without proper structural support, particularly on older or timber-framed buildings, the load can cause sagging or even collapse.'

'They also require ongoing maintenance, which might not suit every homeowner,' he adds.

What type of roof do I have?

According to Johnny Lovett from Grangeway Partners, you can generally identify the type of roof your home has by looking at the slope, structure and number of faces. 'For instance, period homes often have steep gable or pitched slate roofs, sometimes with a small feature area of clay plain tiles,' he says.

When making your assessment, rather than looking at the property from the front, it might be easier to tell what kind of roof your home has by looking at the house from the side or back. If you have access to the loft from the inside of your house, looking at the structure of trusses and ridge beams can give an idea of the roof type and pitch.

If you live in a Victorian or Edwardian home, it’s likely you have a pitched or hipped roof. 'These period properties often feature steeply pitched gable roofs with decorative ridge tiles, finials and even small dormers,' says Trevor. 'In London and other cities, you’ll also spot some mansard roofs, especially on taller townhouses, designed to maximise attic space behind an elegant façade.'

If you live in a house built in the interwar period (1920s – 1940s) it’s likely you have a hipped roof, or potentially a hip-to-gable conversion. 'These homes were typically built with low-pitched hipped roofs as a practical, suburban style,' says Trevor.

Post-war homes or those built in the 1960s or 1970s were more influenced by modernist design, leading to the rise of flatter profiles with shallow pitched or mono-pitched roofs. Houses built in this period focused on function over form. 'You’ll see a low, almost flat silhouette and large soffits (the underside of roof overhangs),' says Trevor. 'Many 1970s homes also have integral garages with matching rooflines.'

Houses built in the 1980s and 90s often feature a gable or hip roof. 'These homes often revived more traditional roof forms like gables and hips, with concrete tiles and standardised layouts,' explains Trevor. Keep your eyes peeled for clean ridge lines and access to the loft via a hatch with trusses.

Since 2000, minimalist-style homes with flat and mono-pitch roofs have grown in popularity. With these homes, the roof structure may be difficult to see from ground level so you can always try using a satellite image from Google Maps to inform your assessment.

If you're roof is in need of replacement, once you know what type of roof and roof covering you have, you'll need to find out how much a new roof costs so you can budget accordingly.

As the external space that leads to your home, your driveway not only needs to be up to the task of taking the load of vehicles – it also needs to look good. For this reason you need to be sure you aren't making any driveway mistakes that risk ruining the whole approach.

'Attractive, smart driveway ideas can really add to your property's kerb appeal,' says Trevor Knight, technical garden and driveway specialist for Marshalls Plc. 'When you're designing a new driveway, there are many factors to bear in mind as these will influence its durability, appearance, and functionality.'

Along with Trevor, I spoke with another driveway expert in order to find out the most common mistakes homeowners make with this element of their house design – meaning you can avoid doing the same.

1. Inadequate preparation

As Benjamin Franklin once said, 'by failing to prepare, you are preparing to fail,' and this most certainly applies to driveways.

'Building a new driveway can be an excellent way to boost your home’s kerb appeal, but it’s easy to make some costly mistakes,' picks up Daniel Wickham owner of First Impression Driveways. 'One of the biggest oversights is bad preparation,' he continues. 'Half-hearting on the prep can cause all manner of issues later on. Is your base a good one? A driveway requires a robust base – otherwise, your investment may start to crack or, worse, buckle.'

Whatever driveway materials you plan on using it will need a crushed aggregate sub-base. If you plan on laying a gravel driveway, an effective weed membrane will help reduce the amount of maintenance required.

2. Overlooking drainage requirements

This is a really important mistake to avoid – poorly considered driveway drainage is one of the biggest reasons for failure and could totally ruin the kerb appeal of your home.

'If not drained correctly, water can accumulate, and will ruin the structure it’s attached to, resulting in costly repairs,' warns Daniel Wickham. 'Be sure it has at least a slight slope so water runs off, or install drainage channels.'

'When water can’t drain away it can wash out and destabilise base materials which will, in turn, cause cracks and other structural issues,' adds Trevor Knight. 'If your driveway is on flat land, opting for permeable paving is the best way to allow water drain away back into the ground to a specially prepared subbase. However, if there is a slight slope to your driveway and you prefer a particular style that is non-permeable, you could incorporate a soakaway or something like a Driveline Drain from Marshalls, which will collect the water and reduce surface water run off.

3. Using the wrong materials

The driveway materials you choose play a dual role. Not only do they ensure it complements the overall façade of your home, but they also affect how it performs and the way in which you can use it.

'Not all materials are good for all climates or usage levels,' explains Daniel Wickham. 'Take into account how much weight your driveway will support and what the average weather is like in your region.'

'Selecting low-grade materials is a very common driveway design mistake,' picks up Trevor Knight. 'Avoid sacrificing quality to save money because if you choose poor-quality materials, maintenance issues are far more likely to arise later down the line and you might even need to invest in replacement materials.

'That said, there is a really wide range of affordable materials that are hardwearing, attractive and will stand the test of time,' continues Trevor. 'One example, is concrete block paving.

4. A badly-planned design

Structure and materials aside, you need to think really carefully about the overall design of your driveway if you want it to do justice to your home, be a beneficial new addition and set the right tone, visually – just as you would with front garden ideas.

'You want to be able to use your driveway and have the design reflect the style of your home,' says Daniel Wickham. 'Overly intricate designs can be impractical, and you might not like the look of mismatched materials as much as you think.'

Consider how you material choices will look set against the materials used within your house – will they look right together? Consider its size and shape too. Will it be big enough for purpose? How easy will it be to manoeuvre your car around? Would you like to include areas of planting to soften the look, or some front garden path ideas to take you from your vehicle to the front door?

5. Substandard installation

Just as with patio ideas, even once you have nailed the materials and design of your driveway, the whole thing could still fall down (quite literally) if it isn't installed properly.

'The most significant problems usually result from poor installation,' says Trevor Knight. 'We always suggest going with a trusted professional who comes with personal recommendations. You could also consider selecting an Accredited Installer from Marshalls for peace of mind.'

'Nailing these elements early on will save you from heartache down the road,' adds Daniel Wickham. 'It's always a good idea to consult with a professional who can guide you through the process and help avoid these common mistakes.'

They should also suggest the best time of year to get your driveway done to ensure the best results.

6. Forgetting the need for a dropped kerb

Don't forget to think about how you are going to access your driveway from the road. If you are creating a new drive from scratch and you will need to turn into it from a public road, you can't just go rumbling up and over the pavement to do this – you'll need to install a dropped kerb and that means you might need planning permission for your driveway.

A dropped kerb is a a sloped, lowered section of pavement designed to provide vehicle access from the road – and it is illegal to drive over a pavement without one.

You will need to apply to your local council to have one installed (at a cost). They will send a highway engineer out to inspect the driveway and, in some cases, will insist that you use one of their approved contractors to carry out the work.

7. Ignoring the need for ongoing maintenance

Even once you are at the stage of standing back and admiring your beautiful new driveway, you are not quite out of the woods in terms of making a few errors that could ruin the whole thing. One of these is failing to maintain it properly.

'The best driveways need more than just laying,' points out Daniel Wickham. 'Maintenance shouldn’t be ignored either to ensure it’s long lasting and stays looking great.'

Simple steps like keeping it clean and looking into how to prepare your driveway for winter can help keep it in good condition for many years to come.

FAQs

Should you clean a driveway with a pressure washer?

This very much depends on the type of material you have chosen to cover your driveway with. Natural stones, such as sandstone, for example, can be damaged by cleaning your driveway with a pressure washer.

No pressure washer to keep your driveway in tiptop condition? No problem. Check out our guide on how to clean a driveway by hand.

Wondering how to replace the roof on a terraced house? As the most common type of house in England and Wales, you are likely not to be alone.

Whether you are the proud owner of a beautiful Victorian terrace, ripe for renovation, or live in a newer version of this popular house style, there will come a time where replacing a roof will needed – but what does this entail when you have neighbours on either side and limited access between the front and rear?

If this is a job on your to-list, our guide is here to explain everything you need to do to take your terraced house's roof from battered to beautiful.

How do you replace the roof on a terraced house?

While simple roof repairs to terraced houses are often pretty straightforward, when the whole thing needs replacing, this type of roof can be more complex.

'Given that there are shared structures supporting the roof of a terraced house, there will be a few more considerations than if you were replacing the roof of a detached house,' picks up Angela Kerr, director at HomeOwners Alliance.

While the process of replacing the roof is likely to be largely the same as for any other type of house, there are a few issues, particular to this style of property, that need taking into account, such as who is responsible for repairing party walls – and that is what we'll be looking at in more detail here.

Do I need my neighbours' permission to replace a roof on a terraced house?

The nature of terraced houses means they share walls on either side with the neighbouring properties – even an end-of-terrace will share one wall. So does this mean you have to ask your neighbour for permission to make changes when renovating a terraced house?

'On terraced homes, you often have a shared fire stop wall – this is the wall that goes up into the roof to separate the roofs – it is also likely to be a Party Wall,' explains architect Tina Patel of Architect Your Home.

'Under The Party Wall etc. Act 1996 if you make any changes to this wall – and that could include inserting flashing into the wall on your side – you will need to serve a Party Wall Notice. This can be done yourself, although it is advisable to get a professional in. On works to this type of wall the notice period is two months so you will want to allow plenty of time to do this.

'Not doing this could result in neighbours putting in a court injunction, so it is important to follow the process with this, it is designed to protect you from scrupulous claims from neighbours and the neighbours from damage.'

'This ensures that any work does not compromise the structural integrity of adjoining properties and protects both you and your neighbour by putting everything on a formal footing,' picks up Angela Kerr.

'It sets out a ‘schedule of condition’ and acts as a record of the condition of the shared structure before the work starts and how it will be carried out in case of any disputes in the future about how your roof replacement affected your neighbour’s property. If you're not sure if one is needed or want help getting a party wall agreement together, speak to a Party Wall Assessor.'

How do you access the roof on a terraced house?

Neighbours aside, you do need to give some thought as to how your roofer is going to access the roof.

'Accessing the roof is likely to require scaffolding that extends over neighbouring properties,' explains Angela Kerr. 'It's important, and just plain courteous, to get permission from your neighbours. A friendly chat to explain what work you're having to get fixed.

'Try to pre-empt their questions before you chat – get an idea from the roofer how long the scaffolding will be up,' continues Angela. 'Re-assure your neighbour that the company will be as quick as possible, and acknowledge this is an intrusion on their life too. Doing this should hopefully set the right tone and means everything gets off on the right foot.'

If you don't have side access or any off-road parking, you will also need to think through how you will get materials delivered and where they will be stored while work is carried out. Don't forget that you might need somewhere to place a skip to dispose of old tiles and other waste materials too. If you are also considering a side return extension – a popular way to add space to terraced houses – this will also be a consideration.

Do I need planning permission to replace the roof of a terraced house?

Even if your neighbours have no problem with your proposed works, will planning permission be required?

'Roof repairs and replacements can usually be done under permitted development rights as long as there is no evidence it will cause an issue to a protected species, and you don’t live in a conservation area,' reassures Angela Kerr.

'For example, if you had bats in your attic you would need to get specialist advice. If you live in a conservation area you may need permission to alter your roof,' continues Angela. 'And anyone living in a listed building will need to use matching materials for roof repairs, which won't involve getting consent. However, if you want to alter your roof’s shape, height, pitch, internal structure or type of covering you would need Listed Building Consent.'

How long does it take to replace the roof on a terraced house?

As with any kind of house renovation task, this very much depends on how many people you have working on the job and how big the property is. Weather will also play a part in how long the task takes to complete. In addition, if the underlying timber structure needs repairing or replacing, you are going to be looking at longer timescales than if it is just the tiles that are being replaced.

In general though, expect the job to take around a week. It could be less if everything goes to plan, or up to two weeks if the job ends up being a little more complex than expected.

Should I use the same roofing materials as my neighbour?

This is one of the first questions people ask when carrying out this type of project. While there is no law to say you must match the tiles to that of your neighbours (although if you live in a conservation area it is always best to give your local planning office a call to check whether there are any planning conditions you should be aware of), aesthetically it does tend to look better. Using new tiles can also occasionally cause structural issues, according to Tina Patel.

'If you do not have a fire stop wall between you and your neighbour, you will need to carefully consider how you abut your neighbour’s roof so that you do not end up with leaks,' she explains. 'This can be particularly tricky when you use different tiles (which may be inevitable if re-roofing an old roof where you can’t get tiles to match).

'If matching tiles, check if anyone in the area is getting rid of any (as often happens if they are doing an extension),' suggests Tina. 'Otherwise, you may need to consider salvage yards to blend old and new tiles to get a worn, 'always been there’ look. If some of your tiles are in good condition then re-using them will get a good blend on the roof.

'Also always consider, when re-roofing, if it is just tiles you re-doing or taking down the whole structure,' continues Tina. 'Newer tiles may be heavier than the old structure can take (old roofs often have smaller roof rafters and after years of being in situ they can start to sag so you may need to reinforce them. Assess this and, if you need to add a new structure, getting it up to the roof will again mean considering the access.'

FAQs

How much does it cost to replace the roof of a terraced house?

Most homeowners facing this task will be asking how much does roof replacement cost – but will it be more for a terraced house?

'Costs vary,' states Angela Kerr. 'A 10 square metre roof replacement in the UK could cost anywhere from £500 to £2,750, depending on the type of roof and materials used according to Checkatrade.

'The best thing to do is get a few written quotes and remember to compare like for like,' continues Angela. 'For example, check what type of tile or felt is being quoted for and any extra charges for skipping or scaffolding. And then negotiate the price.'

One of the most popular upgrades owners of older terraced houses tend to carry out is to create a bigger, brighter kitchen. Take a look at our round up of kitchen extension ideas if this is a project you are hoping to undertake.

Just what are the disadvantages of resin driveways? This is fast becoming one of the most popular materials used to finish off some of the smartest driveway ideas around, but many homeowners are still unsure of its downsides.

'Resin driveways are becoming increasingly popular as an option, with the possibility of an attractive, contemporary finish with high values of permeability that are particularly valuable for managing surface water within domestic UK homes,' explains Farook Member, director and home improvement expert at QS Supplies.

While resin is not necessarily a brand new offering in terms of driveway materials, they are still viewed with a little suspicion by some, particularly when compared to good old gravel and block paving. With that in mind, our guide delves into the disadvantages of resin, as well, of course, as explaining its many plus points.

What are the disadvantages of resin driveways?

Before extolling the virtues of resin driveways, it is sensible to make yourself aware of the factors that put some people off using this as a driveway material.

The experts we spoke to agreed that one of the main downsides of resin driveways lies in its trickier-than-average installation process – in short, this is not really a weekend DIY project, unlike, say, laying gravel driveways.

'Professional installation is required to guarantee the appropriate bonding and finish, which may cost you more – plus it adds to the overall complexities,' picks up Daniel Wickham, owner of First Impression Driveways.

'Resin laying is trickier than some people make it out to be,' agrees Farook Member. 'It requires a well-constructed underlying surface such as concrete or tarmac, and must be laid in dry weather in order to set correctly. Get it wrong and you're risking cracking or poor bonding.'

Cost is another factor that puts some people off. 'The price of resin bound gravel can be as much as £200/m² in certain parts or if there's a lot of groundwork to be done,' reveals landscaping and driveway expert Guy Wall of GCL Products.

Other disadvantages Daniel Wickham warns of include:

• Cost: 'Depending on quality and installation, resin driveways can be more expensive than other materials such as gravel or basic asphalt,' explains Daniel.
• UV stability: If the resin is not UV stable it can yellow over time, potentially ruining the look of the driveway.
• Temperature sensitivity: In extremely hot climates resin may become slightly flexible, but good quality resins are tested to withstand most average temperatures.
• Installation: You need to have them professionally installed for rock hard, long lasting results. DIY efforts may result in uneven surfaces or inadequate drainage.

Do the pros outweigh the cons?

Despite the downsides, there are plenty of advantages to resin bound gravel driveways which, most people agree, outweigh the cons.

'One of the biggest advantages is that they are extremely low-maintenance in nature,' explains Farook Member.

Their hands-free nature might make it less necessary for homeowners to have to look into how to prepare a driveway for winter, but there are other positives to this material which make it a worthwhile investment too. These include:

• Longevity: 'With the correct maintenance, resin driveways have the potential to last as long as those constructed from materials such as concrete or asphalt – which is generally about 15 to 20 years,' reveals Daniel Wickham.
• Design choices: Resin is perfect for contemporary homes and offers a great deal of flexibility when it comes to colour and finish.
• Low maintenance: As mentioned above, one of the main draws of resin driveways how easy they are to look after. 'There is no weed growth and loose gravel is of no concern,' points out Farook Member.
• Planning permission not (usually) required: Driveway planning permission will usually not be required providing you are using a permeable material to cover it – and most resins tick this box. But do check before parting with any money.

Is a resin driveway a good idea?

There are lots of good reasons to choose a resin bound gravel driveway, not least that they are a great lay-it-and-forget-about-it option. If you are after a maintenance-free driveway, this is a material you should strongly be considering – no need for laboriously cleaning gravel here.

Resin driveways are also perfect for homeowners keen to inject a little contemporary kerb appeal into their home. They are sleek and minimalist and come in all kinds of shades to tie in with your any kind of facade, be that a clean white render or an inky blue timber cladding.

That said, if your home is a little more traditional in style, it may well be better suited to a different finish, such as stone, gravel or weathered block paving.

Additionally, if you are on a tight budget, this is not necessarily going to be the right choice for you.

'Resin driveways are pricier than gravel but comparable with high-spec block paving in cost,' advises Farook Member. 'They average between £50 to £70 per metre square.'

FAQs

What is a resin driveway?

This is actually a really important to question to ask. First off, you need to be aware that there is a difference between a 'resin-bound' driveway and one that is 'resin-bonded'. This could affect whether or not you will need to apply for planning permission for your new installation.

Resin-bonded systems are formed when aggregate is distributed onto a surface to which the resin has already been applied. This gives a non-permeable surface finish, meaning planning permission is likely to be required if the driveway is over 5/m2.

Resin-bound driveways, on the other hand, are comprised of small aggregate stones that are combined with resin before being applied to the surface together. This results in a permeable finish, meaning planning permission is unlikely to be required. They also result in a smoother finish with less chance of loose stones.

How long do resin driveways last?

One of the most impressive things about resin driveways is their expected lifespan.

'A good quality resin-bound driveway lasts between 15-20 years,' reveals Farook Member. 'This is the same length of time as block paving, but with minimal maintenance.'

What are resin driveway maintenance requirements?

Another irresistible draw for many homeowners when it comes to resin driveways is how 'hands-off' they are in terms of the looking after they require – one less thing to add to your winter home maintenance checklist each year.

'Resin surfaces are not difficult to clean or maintain and are also very effective at knocking back weeds and stopping stains,' explains Daniel Wickham.

It is important to bear in mind though that high-quality products and professional installation are both key to a long-lasting resin driveway.

Considering other driveway materials? Check out the pros and cons of gravel driveways or block paved driveways to see if it's right for you.

Your roof plays a huge rule in establishing your home’s aesthetic, so if you’re updating your roof as part of a bigger home renovation it’s important to select a covering that sits beautifully alongside the rest of the external materials.

The scope of the works you’re taking on might range from rectifying a few broken or damaged tiles to replacing the roof, and covering, entirely. If you’re only replacing a few tiles, it’s important to find as close a match to the existing units as possible.

If you’re re-roofing the entire property, however, there are numerous factors to bear in mind when it comes to specifying new tiles, including the size and shape of the units, as well as the pitch of the roof you’re covering. You’ll also need to check whether your choice of roof tile will be dictated by any local planning requirements, as well as factoring in how much budget you have available for your roof upgrade.

Here, we take a closer look at the options for roof tiles, highlighting the advantages and key considerations to bear in mind for each.

What types of roof tiles can you get?

Whether you are replacing a couple of tiles, roofing an extension or replacing your roof entirely, you'll need a clear understanding of the different types of roof tiles available.

Concrete

Fabricated to a uniform size, colour and finish, the crisp, clean aesthetic of concrete tiles makes them a favourite choice for modern houses. On the plus side, they come in a huge range of different shades to suit your home, and thanks to the consistent dimensions of concrete tiles, they’re also easy to install – especially if you choose interlocking units that click together for a quick and easy job.

Another advantage of concrete tiles is the cost, as they’re cheaper than materials like slate and slate – expect to budget from £30 per m2 for concrete units, on a supply only basis.

If you’re after a low-maintenance solution, concrete is a smart option – simple things to look out for include moss and dirt build-up that needs to be cleaned every three to five years, on average. Providing you carry out the right upkeep, you can expect concrete tiles to last between 30 and 70 years.

On the downside, concrete lacks the natural colour variations you’d get with clay or stone tiles. Plus, concrete tiles are not through-coloured in the same way as clay or slate units, so the initial shade of the tiles is likely to fade over time. They’re also heavier than clay, so if you’re switching clay units for concrete, your roof might require some form of structural reinforcement.

Clay

If you want a characterful look, clay tiles might be the go-to option for your project. 'Roof tiles made from clay possess a natural beauty that can continue to add character and value to a roof from one generation to the next,' says Alastair Holding from Dreadnought Tiles. 'Observing old clay roofs around the country, it’s easy to see how plain clay tiles bring individuality and warmth to a property.'

Clay tiles come in a broad spectrum of colours, from warm reds to rich blues. As the tiles are made from a natural material, the colour won’t fade over time due to exposure to UV light. Numerous shapes are available, too, ranging from crisp plain tiles to S-shaped pantiles, through to more ornate designs like bullnose and club profiles.

Machine-made and characterful hand-crafted clay tiles are available, which means they suit an array of homes. 'As plain clay tiles have been an integral and cherished part of the English built environment for centuries, they’re frequently used in listed buildings and houses within Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty and Conservation Areas, where strict planning regulations require replacement tiles to match the originals,' says Alastair.

It's worth checking your roof for any broken or missing tiles on a regular basis, as well as paying attention to any buildup of debris, leaves, moss and algae growth that needs to be cleaned away. A well-maintained clay tile roof can last above 100 years.

Roof pitch is a key consideration when specifying clay tiles – low pitches should typically be avoided. 'This is because clay tiles overlap on the roof to allow water to drain off quickly, but on low pitches, the increased risk of pooling can lead to water ingress,' says Alastair. Some modern interlocking tiles work at a pitch of 15°, though a pitch of any less than that might work better with another type of tile.

Expect to pay a minimum of £40 per m2 for machine-made units and as much as £80 per m2 for hand-made products.

Slate

Thanks to the natural variations in colour and grain across the surface of each tile, the natural appearance of slate makes it a desirable option for traditional and contemporary homes. Depending on the source quarry, you can find slate tiles in shades ranging from deep blue-grey to purple and green.

'Unlike concrete or clay tiles, slate has a naturally split, fine-grained finish that adds elegance and depth,' says Rosie Connor from JRC Slate. 'It’s the difference between a tailored suit and an off-the-peg outfit – both do the job, but one’s unmistakeably premium.' Slate tiles work beautifully on period properties and traditional rural buildings. 'That said, a modern slate roof can also elevate contemporary architecture,' says Rosie.

Durability and an impressive service life are two of slate’s main advantages – you can expect well-maintained slate tiles to last 100+ years, with premium slates offering up to 150 years. Slate offers good sustainability credentials, too, as it the tiles can be recycled at the end of their useful life.

Slate is a premium product, so high-quality tiles come with the price tag to match. According to Checkatrade, the average stone slate roof cost is around £160 to £210 per m². Slate is heavy, too, so you’ll need to check whether your roof structure needs reinforcing before the tiles are installed and factor this into the costs.

When it comes to assessing the quality of your tiles, the location they were quarried in is important. Those sourced from Cumbria, Wales or Cornwall are typically premium quality. Imported products can be more cost-effective, though it’s important to check they have been tested to BS EN12326 standards.

'Homeowners need to thoroughly vet the installer,' advises Ben Fernandez Fontan from Galex – Iconic Slate. 'Installing slate is an art, requiring skill and many years of training and experience. Ideally, see some of their previous slate projects. Do the homework to limit the possibility of a poorly installed roof, it will be very costly to remedy later.'

'Low pitched roofs of less than 22° in sheltered areas, or less than 25° in unsheltered areas will be problematic,' adds Ben.

In terms of maintenance, a professional inspection is recommended every few years to check for any tiles that have slipped out of place or become damaged.

Fibre-cement

Roof tiles made from fibre-cement are often chosen as a cost-effective alternative to authentic slates. The bulk of the savings, however, are typically made from the installation rather than the units themselves – the uniformity of the tiles means they’re easier to fit and will save your roofer time, as they won’t have to grade and sort the tiles as they would when installing genuine slate tiles.

On the plus side, fibre-cement units are suitable for lower roof pitches than real slate tiles would be. They’re cheaper, too – which is good news if you’re working to a tight budget! The price depends on how many roof tiles you need per m2, which will depend on the pitch of your roof. Expect to pay from £3 per unit.

The uniformity of fibre-cement tiles means they’re a good fit for modern homes, though it’s worth bearing that unlike slates, tiles made from this material will fade in colour over time. Plus, if you’re after the unique surface texture of genuine roof slates, fibre-cement might not be the best fit for your project.

Expect a service life between 20 and 60 years for a fibre-cement roof that is well-maintained and periodically cleaned and inspected for loose or damaged tiles.

Stone

Other natural stone varieties, including limestone and Yorkstone, are ideal for establishing a characterful aesthetic. Tiles of this type are often viewed favourably by planning departments when being used in areas where locally quarried stone is the vernacular style. Similarly to clay and slate, natural stone tiles are through-coloured, so they won’t fade over time. Plus, they’re extremely strong and durable.

As with other roof tiles, it’s worth checking your stone roof a couple of times a year for moss growth. Plus, the eaves and gutters should be cleared of debris regularly. A well-maintained stone roof will last 100+ years.

Natural stone is a premium option – expect to pay a minimum of £80 per m2. The greater cost means this type of tile is only really worth it for heritage or listed homes, and those in areas where it’s required to fit in with the local vernacular (e.g. limestone tiles in the Cotswolds).

What kind of roof tiles do I have?

Whether you’re re-roofing the whole house or simply replacing a selection of damaged tiles, it’s important to select the tile that’s going to best match the property – especially if your works fall into the latter category.

The most common roofing materials used in the UK are clay, slate and concrete. So, it’s likely that if your home has a tiled roof, it’ll be made from one of these three materials. While concrete is more common in modern homes, slate was a popular solution for houses built in the Victorian era.

Traditional clay roof tiles come in a variety of colours, including red, brown and grey – so look out for these hues across the surface of the unit. Concrete also comes in an array of colours and may have a slightly mottled colour and texture. Slate tiles may have more of an irregular shape, and a colour in the grey/purple/green range. If you’re unsure, consult a professional roofer.

It’s also worth bearing in mind that some types of roof tile are synonymous with certain areas of the country, as the predominant aesthetic is based on which raw materials are sourced locally. For instance, if you live in Wales, Cornwall or Scotland, it might be more likely that you have a natural slate roof. Homes in the Midlands, however, are more likely to have clay roof tiles. Traditional houses in the Cotswolds may be topped with characterful limestone tiles.

The shape of the tile can be informed by the region, too. For example, houses the south-east of the country (particularly Kent) are known for peg and plain tiles, whereas homes in Norfolk and up the east coast are oven topped with pantiles, which feature a distinctive S-shaped profile.

To work out your budget, you'll need a clear understanding of how much a new roof costs. Fortunately, our comprehensive guide can help.

EDITOR’S NOTE: We are aware that this article includes a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote is in a queue to be removed as soon as possible. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

When you’re drawing up a budget in order to improve the front of your home, you’ll need to know how much it costs to resurface a driveway. That’s because, whether it’s a single parking space or provides room for multiple cars, a driveway has a big influence on kerb appeal.

When it comes to resurfacing a driveway, the surface you choose will make a major contribution to the final bill. But so, too, do the groundworks necessary before it’s laid, and the labour involved in laying the particular surface.

To help you plan your expenditure for your driveway project we’ve put together an expert guide to costs, including the lowest cost option. And we’ve also got the details on whether resurfacing a driveway can add value to your home.

How much does it cost to resurface a driveway?

The cost of resurfacing a driveway is influenced by the driveway materials you choose and, where applicable, what it is made from, or how it is customised. These are the details including what you can expect to pay for the material plus the approximate costs for a 30 square metre drive, according to MyJobQuote.

Go for gravel to resurface your driveway, and you can expect to pay from £30 to £50 per square metre for the material with the total cost ranging from £1,000 to £2,500 for a driveway.

If you opt for a paved surface, this can be made from concrete blocks, clay bricks or natural stone. As for the price, pavers made from concrete cost between £50 and £95 per square metre, while brick and stone versions tend to be £65 to £125 per square metre. For a driveway, expect to pay from £1,200 to £4,000.

Tarmac averages around £45 to £65 per square metre plus the cost of installing drainage (see below). For a driveway, that’s around £1,300 to £3,200.

Decide on a resin-bound driveway for the look of gravel without the latter’s maintenance needs and you might pay from £50 to £85 per square metre for the material and £1,200 to £2,000 for a driveway.

Complementing a modern home with concrete tends to cost between £60 and £90 per square metre, or £2,500 to £4,000 for a driveway, but the addition of colouring agents and pattern imprints will increase the final bill.

What factors affect how much it costs to resurface a driveway?

There are a number of elements that will contribute to what you’ll pay for resurfacing a driveway.

1. Material matters not only because of its price but also because of its implications for drainage. Replacement driveways don't need planning permission if they use permeable (or porous) surfacing. Pick non-permeable tarmac, though, and you might also have to pay for permission. ‘Installing drainage, to allow rainwater to soak away, should help you avoid the cost and hassle of this, but you’ll still have extra costs to factor in,’ says property and construction expert Thomas Goodman at MyJobQuote.
2. Driveway size impacts price, of course, as more materials are needed and the project will take longer, adding to labour costs. Note that, if you opt for pavers, intricate patterns also increase the latter as creating these will take more time. Labour costs also vary depending where you live in the country with those in London and some other areas higher.
3. Removing an existing surface and disposing of waste materials also has a price tag. Machinery and skips can add between £400 and £800 to your cost, according to Thomas.
4. Timing is crucial too. You should also make sure you choose the best time of year to get your driveway done to ensure you get the best result. Otherwise you could find yourself having to pay more to remedy any faults or, at worst, redo it entirely.

What is the best way to resurface a driveway if you’re on a budget?

If you’re on a budget, using gravel is likely to be the best option to resurface a driveway. The reason it typically proves the most economical option is, first, because gravel is less costly than block paving, cobbles and setts, resin, tarmac and concrete.

It can also work out as the least expensive option since it is easier to lay. What’s more, if the sub-base is permeable, you shouldn’t need to install rainwater drainage, notes Thomas Goodman.

FAQs

Will resurfacing a driveway add value to your home?

Resurfacing a driveway could add value to your home. ‘But by how much depends heavily on both the material chosen and the wider context of the property,’ says Robin Edwards, property buying agent at Curetons.

‘A resurfaced driveway typically won’t add a huge percentage to a property’s value in isolation,’ he explains. ‘It might only be in the region of 1 to 3 per cent depending on location, price bracket and how poorly maintained the previous surface was. However, the bigger value comes from eliminating a potential objection for any buyers.’

Materials count when you come to sell. ‘Block paving is often seen as one of the more premium options,’ says Robin. ‘Cobbles and setts can also add significant charm and character, particularly on period or country homes, but they may not suit every buyer as they’re more uneven underfoot and can be harder to maintain.’

Resin can be a sound choice. ‘A high-quality resin driveway can be quite appealing and may offer one of the better returns in terms of perceived value uplift,’ says Robin.

Tarmac remains popular for its practicality, although it isn’t seen as the most luxurious choice, he notes, while gravel and concrete can both divide opinions. ‘Some buyers may see gravel as messy or a bit inconvenient, particularly families with small children, elderly residents or buyers concerned about wheelchair or pushchair access,’ says Robin.

‘Plain concrete is often viewed as rather functional, more appropriate for perhaps a very modern minimalist home,’ he adds. ‘Decorative or stamped concrete can be more attractive, but it depends a lot on execution.’

To keep your costs under control, make sure you avoid these common driveway mistakes when undertaking your own project.

If your home lacks kerb appeal, knowing how to resurface a driveway can prove valuable. A drive’s prominence means it makes a huge impact on your home’s appearance from the street, and if you understand the options for changing its appearance, the front of a house can be transformed.

Fresh driveway ideas can revive it if it’s worn or stained, doesn’t drain well, or you’re fighting a losing battle against weeds, moss and algae. What’s more, resurfacing can ensure the drive complements the style of your house as well as providing a place to park.

It might be possible to lay some driveway materials on top of an existing drive, but other options will require additional preparations beforehand, and we’ve provided the details on them here. And there’s also the information you need on whether resurfacing is a DIY job.

How to resurface a driveway

It's worth checking the best time to get your driveway done to ensure the best results as the process can be impacted by the weather. The process by which a driveway is resurfaced depends on the material used. And making sure you how to suitably prepare drive for a new surface is the best way to avoid common driveway mistakes that can leave you with a sub-standard result.

However, there are typical steps:

1. Remove old surface
2. Lay and compact sub-base
3. Lay new surface

If you’re opting for gravel, a weed membrane, like this heavy duty 4x5m weed membrane, (£19.95 from Amazon) should cover the sub-base to help stop plants coming up through the driveway. It can also be worth opting for gravel stabilisation grids, like this grid from Wickes (£18) to keep the gravel in place.

Block paving will need edge restraints laid onto concrete before the sub-base is laid, after which a layer of damp sharp sand should be added, compacted and screeded. After the blocks are laid, kiln-dried sand should be swept into the joints and the surface compacted.

Edging is also needed for a tarmac driveway after which the sub-base is laid. Typically two layers are then used – a binder course and a surface course.

A resin-bound driveway also needs edging. It is laid on top of a base layer and then the resin and stone aggregates mixed, then poured onto the driveway, spread and levelled.

Decide on concrete, and forms will be needed to keep it in place as it hardens. Once the concrete is poured, it is flattened and smoothed.

It might also be possible to resurface your driveway by adding a fresh layer on top of the existing surface. In this case, the typical steps are:

1. Clean drive to remove dirt and debris
2. Remove weeds
3. Fill any small cracks and holes, and level
4. Lay new surface

Tarmac can be overlayed with new tarmac if the surface below is sound and level. A tack coat will be needed to bond the new surface to the old one. It may also be viable to lay tarmac over concrete, depending on its condition.

Consider the existing driveway carefully before opting to add a new layer, however. ‘For a surface with a lot of cracking and visible issues, starting from scratch may be the longest lasting option, as there may be issues with the original layering,’ says building expert Paul Kerr at Beatsons Building Supplies.

What should you consider before resurfacing your driveway?

Drainage is a crucial consideration when you’re resurfacing to avoid damage to the driveway over the long term, and to help reduce flooding and keep surface water run-off out of sewerage systems in accordance with sustainable urban drainage (SuDS) legislation.

‘One of the most common mistakes made when designing a driveway is overlooking drainage,’ says Trevor Knight, head of group technical operations, Marshalls. ‘Without the correct drainage you can expect to see water accumulation in areas you don’t need it and any standing water in turn can potentially cause future structural damage to your property. Water that can’t drain properly can wash out and destabilise the driveway’s base materials, causing cracks to form and other structural issues over time.

‘To avoid this, you just need to ensure that you choose the right drainage solution for your driveway,' continues Trevor. 'If your driveway is on a mainly flat plain, permeable paving is a great solution to help water drain away back to ground to the specially formulated sub-base below.

'On the other hand, if your driveway is on a slight incline, and you prefer a particular style of drainage, you could incorporate a hard-wearing drainage system or interconnecting drainage channels. These will collect the water as it cascades, reducing the majority of surface water run-off, keeping it within your curtilage and staying within the legal SuDS legislation now in force.’

It is also worth considering how much maintenance a new surface will require when planning a driveway resurfacing project.

While most surfaces are easy to clean and care for, it will be necessary to deal with the movement of the stones if you opt for a gravel driveway and top them up as required.

One of these is also likely to require weeding even if there is a membrane installed. Weeds and moss can also grow between pavers if you choose these. If you opt for concrete, while it’s generally easy to look after, it can be stained by oil.

FAQs

Can I resurface my own driveway?

You might be able to resurface your own driveway depending on the scale of the project and the material you want to use.

‘For patch jobs and small fixes, you can absolutely do it yourself,’ says Paul Kerr. ‘We would advise doing some research beforehand to ensure you have the right tools for the job. Cracks in concrete are quite easy to deal with using small scale DIY concrete kits. Just be careful with the wet material as you don't want it drying on clothes or skin (or surrounding plants and ornaments). Gravel is also an easy material to deal with.’

However, it’s worth calling in a professional for for complex materials. ‘For tarmac and cobbling, we would advise seeking expert advice,’ says Paul. ‘Tarmac needs to be heated before application, and it can be quite a dangerous process for amateurs. Cobbling is also very time-intensive and, when done wrong, can look awful – we'd advise the use of skilled labourers to get a cobbled finish that looks great.’ Block paving needs careful placement, too.

And while it is possible to lay a resin-bound driveway yourself, it is generally advisable to call in professionals as there are a number of ways in which errors can be made.

How long do you have to stay off a driveway after resurfacing?

How long you have to stay off a driveway after resurfacing will depend on the type of surface you choose. If your driveway is professionally installed, check with your installer as both the surface itself and the conditions in which it was laid count, but these are the typical periods you should wait.

Tarmac should be left to cure for at least three days before you drive on it, while concrete should be allowed at least seven days to do so. Choose block paving and it should be left for at least three days before parking on the driveway as should cobbles. For a new resin-bound driveway, waiting up to three days before driving on it is also advisable.

Before you resurface your driveway, you should also check whether you need planning permission for your driveway plans to ensure you stay on the right side of the law.

The roof is one of the most important parts of your home’s structure, which means it’s vital to keep on top of maintenance to ensure your property remains warm and dry. But even with effective maintenance, how often does a roof need replacing?

Undertaking a general assessment of your roof’s condition every six months or so will allow you to pick up any potential issues, from moss growth to loose tiles, as soon as they crop up. That way the problem can be dealt with promptly before it has the chance to evolve into a bigger issue that means you have to replace your roof entirely.

Here, we investigate how often roofs typically need replacing, the factors that will affect your roof’s lifespan and what you can do to extend it.

How often does a roof need replacing?

How often a roof needs replacing depends on the type of covering your roof has and how well it has been maintained over the years. If minor issues, such as a few loose tiles, are addressed as soon as they arise it can save you the hassle of fixing a bigger problem that’s been left to worsen over time.

For instance, if loose or damaged tiles are not replaced swiftly, the risk of water ingress increases. Eventually, this could cause serious problems with the supporting structure of the roof. Damage to the roof flashings at junctions across the roof could lead to leaks, too.

'To prolong an existing roof it’s advisable to undertake inspections regularly, to spot any potential defects early that could become a problem if not addressed,' says Johnny Lovett from Grangeway Partners.

'You can do things like cleaning gutters, checking for slipped tiles, inspecting for moss or water ingress and checking the hip and ridge tiles for any defective mortar,' advises Johnny. 'Small repairs can greatly extend the life expectancy of a roof.'

How long should a roof last?

Of course, there are multiple factors that could affect your roof’s lifespan, from the quality of the material covering your roof to the prevalent weather conditions in your area. Even the presence of overhanging tree branches could cause damage to your roof.

A pitched roof with a slate covering has the potential to last well over 100 years – a covering comprising premium slate tiles could even last 150 years, providing it is well maintained. Clay tiles are likely to last in the region of 100 years, while concrete tiles should last a minimum of 30 years.

'If you have a flat roof, a bitumen felt covering will typically last about 20-25 years. Single ply membranes typically last around 25-40 years and an EDPM rubber roof can last 25 to 50 years,' says Johnny.

What factors affect the lifespan of a roof?

The quality of the finish you use plays a huge role in determining how long the roof covering should last. For instance, while there are various grades of roof slate on the market, thicker tiles made from high-quality slate will outlast thinner units.

Installation is another important aspect to consider, as a poorly fitted roof covering is more likely to encounter issues from the outset, ultimately leading to a shorter life span.

Building regulations also stipulate the importance of having a roof that’s well ventilated. Get this aspect wrong, and you run the risk of moisture getting trapped inside the building, which could lead to condensation and long-term damp issues.

'Ventilation is extremely important for all roofing materials; it will maintain your slates and tiles in good condition by drying sooner,' says Ben Fernandez Fontan from Galex – Iconic Slate. 'More importantly, it will also greatly prolong the life of the timber that the slate roof is installed upon – eaves and ridgeline venting is essential.'

Exposure to the elements is another important factor to consider. If you live in an exposed area with high winds or a coastal region, the weather conditions could cause more wear and tear on your property’s roof and increase the number of small repairs you’re required to carry out.

'Drainage is important, too,' says Johnny. 'Incorrect slopes and falls on a roof can lead to poorly draining water. Some pooling of water is allowable with certain materials, but it’s advisable to always install materials to manufacturer’s recommendations.'

How do I know when I need to replace my roof?

There are some obvious signs that’ll let you know when your home’s roof needs attention – leaking, internal water damage and missing tiles to name a few. Other potential issues might include failed mortar between ridge tiles or coping stones, sagging, missing tiles or flashing that’s either loose or damaged.

'The above don’t necessarily mean the roof needs replacing in its entirety, but they are signs to look out for,' says Johnny.

If you’re unsure about the scope of work that’s required, it’s worth seeking the advice of a professional to get a better idea of what the right course of action is.

If you notice that some of your tiles are loose, flaking or breaking off, it could be that they’ve come to the end of their useful life. If these issues only show up on a few tiles, replacing them individually might be sufficient. However, if it’s a significant number, it might be best to replace all of them, as a large number of defective tiles would cause the rest of the roof to fail within a few years anyway.

If you notice a curve in the roofline when viewing your property from the street, this might suggest that the timber rafters or trusses are no longer able to support the weight of the roof structure. Typically, failure of the supporting structure occurs as a result of water ingress due to poor upkeep.

It may be possible to remove the tiles from the affected area so you can reinforce or strengthen the timber beneath. However, depending on the severity of the situation you’re dealing with, it’s also possible that all the tiles might need to be removed – even if lots of them are still in good condition – so the overall structure can be repaired.

Unfortunately, you might even be required to deal with issues resulting from misguided work carried out on your roof before you even owned the house. For example, concrete tiles are often selected as a low-cost alternative to slate. However, they’re much heavier, so the roof structure should have been reinforced at the point of the tiles’ installation to cope with the additional load. If the right reinforcements were not put in, it’s possible the repair or replacement work will fall to you.

Bear in mind that building regulations approval is often required for roofing work. Current rules stipulate that when more than 25% of your home’s roof is being removed and replaced, you must also upgrade your insulation to meet the standards laid out by current government regulations.

When assessing the condition of your roof, it's worth checking for leaky gutters too so you can aim to get those repaired at the same time.

Exactly how much does a new roof cost these days? As one of the most important structural elements of any house, this is certainly not an area to be scrimping on, but neither do you want to find yourself paying over the odds.

Very often, people don't give too much thought to replacing a roof until the very moment they notice that something has gone wrong. Perhaps your's has sprung a leak, has sustained damage or you have spotted a fair few tiles missing and this has led you to look into getting it recovered, or replaced entirely.

Whatever your reasons for tackling this substantial home improvement task, costs are likely to be on your mind. Our guide is here to explain what kind of figures you could be looking at to ensure your home stays warm, dry and protected.

How much does a new roof cost?

Before fully delving into the cost of a new roof, it is important to point out that costs will vary according to several factors. The materials you are using to finish the roof, the state of the current structure (including the type of roof you have) and even the size of your house are all going to play a part here. Even if you have looked into how to maintain your roof, at some point it will need a little attention.

'Roof replacement prices will vary depending on the type of roof and its size,' picks up roofing expert Scott Adams from Roofing Association. 'When getting a new roof quote, it's important to let the roofing company know which type of roof you need replacing. We recommend getting at least five roof replacement quotes from professional, local roofers.'

That said, it is possible to get an idea of what you'll need to budget. According to MyBuilder.com, the average price for a new roof comes in at between £5,500 - £7,000. This is based on a three to four bedroom house.

That said, it can cost much more than this, Scott Adams explains. 'The cost of reroofing a house in the UK can be anywhere between £5,000 and £17,000 depending on its size and complexity.'

How does roof type affect costs?

There are many different types of roof and the style can have a big impact on costs.

'The average cost range for roof replacement depends greatly on the roof type and size,' further explains Andy Simms from MyBuilder.com. 'For instance, a hip roof covering approximately 64m² can cost between £9,250 and £18,000. On the other hand, a gable roof of the same size may range from £7,000 to £16,250.

'Flat roofs, typically used for flat roof extensions or garages, can cost between £2,800 and £7,500 for a 32m² area.'

How do these costs break down?

It is so useful, when getting quotes in not just for your new roof, but for any aspect of a renovation, that you clearly understand what's included and how these costs are made up.

'The easiest way to break down a quote is to split it into two categories,' explains Scott Adams. 'The amount you pay the roofer to install a new roof (approx. 60%) and the cost of roofing materials (around 40%).'

It is also possible to break costs down further which will allow you to see where potential savings could be made.

• Roof removal: The cost of this will very much depend on the state of the underlying structure. 'The cost of removing an existing roof is usually somewhere between £900 and £2,500,' reveals Scott.
• Materials: The materials you choose to re-cover your roof have a huge effect on costs and will make up around 40% of your overall quote. More on this later.
• Labour: Unless you plan on carrying out the entire project on a DIY basis, you'll need to call in the pros. 'The average cost of hiring a professional roofer in the UK is £200 per day,' says Scott. 'Labour costs are around 60% of the total cost.'
• Roof repairs: If the underlying structure of your new roof needs attention, you are going to have to factor this in. 'The cost of replacing rotten or damaged roof timber can be anywhere between £400 and £1,800, depending on how much wood needs replacing,' explains Scott.

What do different roof coverings cost?

Just as with house cladding costs, the materials you use for your new roof is an influencing factor.

The most common materials used for pitched roofs are concrete or clay tiles, or slates. Those replacing a flat roof often choose a single ply membrane, sedum or even metal sheeting such as lead.

The cheapest option is usually concrete tiles. If you prefer clay, opting for machine-made over handmade will save you money. While slate roofs are often more expensive (both for labour and materials) they are still a fantastic, durable choice.

To get more of an idea of approximate material costs, we've broken them down for you.

• Plain concrete roof tiles: £49/m2
• Clay roof tiles: £58/m2
• Slate: From £60/m2
• Single ply membrane: £90/m2
• Lead: £145/m2
• Sedum: From £50/m2

Do I need to replace my roof or could it be repaired?

Faced with these costs you may well be wondering if a full replacement is needed – could a little repair job be all that's needed? Repair is certainly usually cheaper.

Old tar or cement flashings around chimneys can be replaced with lead and, if you only have a few missing tiles these can also be replaced without too much trouble. Additionally, be on the lookout for signs of water damage or mould on your ceilings as this could be sign your roof is looking and needs attention. In some cases, however, you'll just get to a point where replacement might be the best long-term solution.

'The cost of a new roof might seem expensive at first, but have you considered the cost of having multiple roof repairs over the last decade?' points out Scott Adams. 'If you had hired a roofing contractor to replace your roof several years ago, you might have actually saved money by not having your roof repaired multiple times.'

FAQs

Can you claim for a new roof on your home insurance?

Whether or not your home insurance will cover a full roof replacement totally depends on your individual policy, as well as, in some cases, the reason for the need for the replacement, for example a fire or storm damage.

In some cases, full building insurance will include roof insurance and repairs, but this might not be for the full cost. Additionally, if you have asked for them to pay for a replacement, but they deem that repair would be a better option, they may only fund this.

Are there any hidden costs with new roofs?

Along with the costs we've discussed here, there are several things that could step in and mean stretching your budget further – it really does pay to be aware of these.

Check whether your quote includes:

• New gutters and fascias
• Waste disposal (you might need to hire a skip)
• Scaffolding
• Access (which will be particularly important when you replace the roof on a terraced house)

If you are thinking about buying an older property you do need to factor in certain, larger costs that are likely to be involved with its maintenance and modernisation. Along with new roof costs, look into whether replacement windows might be needed.

If your drive is looking tired or even damaged, then you might be thinking about resurfacing it to give your home's kerb appeal a boost. But what's the best time of year to get your driveway done to ensure you get the best results?

I asked the experts the most and least ideal times to act on your new driveway ideas, how the material you choose can impact the timings, and the specific conditions needed to ensure your new drive looks its best for as long as possible.

What's the best time of year to get your driveway done?

Later spring and summer are usually the best times to get your driveway done, as weather tends to be warm and dry. ‘The best time to get your driveway resurfaced in the UK is usually between May and September,' says Bill Jarvis, driveway sealing and surface expert at Premium Paints. 'This is because you need reliable weather and temperatures consistently above 10°C for materials like resin, tarmac, and concrete to cure properly.

‘You also tend to get longer dry spells, and most driveway products need at least 24 to 48 hours of dry weather to set properly. Even quick-drying ones don’t do well with surprise rain.'

However, while this might be the ideal time for resurfacing your driveway, the temperature matters, and heatwaves can cause havoc with your plans. Bill explains: ‘Once temperatures hit 30°C or more, resin can cure too quickly and go patchy, and tarmac can soften and scuff more easily. The sweet spot is mild, dry days, somewhere between 12°C and 25°C is ideal.’

Does the material you choose affect the timing?

There are a range of driveway materials you can choose from, and they don't all have the same sensitivity to weather so the best time and conditions for your driveway upgrade might also depend on the material you choose.

'Resin-bound driveways, for example, really don’t like moisture; if it rains while it’s being laid, it can spoil the whole finish,' continues Bill.

'Tarmac and concrete also need warm, dry days to cure evenly and avoid cracking. Even block paving, which you can technically install all year round, still needs dry conditions if you’re planning to seal it afterwards, otherwise moisture can get trapped underneath and cause problems later on.'

What's the worst time of year to get your driveway done?

Between November and February is the worst time to get your driveway done — it's usually cold and wet with limited daylight hours, which can make it harder for your resurfacing material to act as it needs to.

'The mix of cold, wet weather and short daylight hours makes it much harder to get a good result, says Bill. 'Surfaces don’t cure properly, sealants can fail, and frost can cause cracks or lifting soon after the work’s done.'

While you might notice issues with your existing driveway during the winter, it's best to wait until it warms up rather than try and chance replacing it when the weather conditions will be less than ideal. Otherwise, you could find yourself having to fork out for repairs or even a complete redo sooner rather than later. To help your existing driveway last while you wait, make sure you know how to prepare your driveway for winter and how to remove ice from your driveway to avoid further damage.

Heatwaves are also best avoided as the high temperatures can negatively impact setting times leaving you with sub-par results and causing your new driveway to deteriorate faster than it normally would. If you want to improve the look of your existing drive while you wait for temperatures to settle down, then cleaning your driveway with a pressure washer can help make it look better.

The driveway materials you choose to finish off this aspect of your home not only define how it looks – they also play a crucial role in how well it performs.

While you might have some very firm driveway ideas you are aiming for, it pays to understand all your options if you want to ensure you are creating an external space that will not only enhance the appearance of your home, but that will also stand the test of time and require little in the way of maintenance. Just remember to choose compatible driveway drainage for the very best and longest lasting results.

To help you come to the right decision, we've put together a handy guide, covering all the main options available and their pros and cons.

What different driveway materials are available?

While it is always nice to have a wide selection to choose from, it can make coming to a decision a little harder.

Before settling on any kind of final choice, you need to have a clear idea of what you want from your new driveway and how you plan on using it, as well as your budget. For example, if it is creating kerb appeal that is your priority, your needs are going to be different to someone whose main aim is to take a totally hands-off approach to maintenance.

'Each choice comes with its own pros and cons, so the decision depends on your budget, your tastes and how you expect to use the driveway,' explains Daniel Wickham, owner of First Impression Driveways. After all, choosing the wrong material is one of the worst driveway mistakes you can make.

In general, the choice of driveway materials comes down to:

• Gravel
• Block paving
• Tarmac
• Resin bound gravel
• Concrete imprint

1. Gravel driveways

First up let's take a look at gravel driveways – a familiar sight up and down the UK. Ideal Home's Renovation Editor Sarah has a gravel driveway, which she both loves and loathes.

Gravel comes in a huge variety of shades, and stones are available in lots of sizes, from tiny pea proportions to chunkier pieces. What's more, it is often simple to lay on a DIY basis and is really cost-effective too.

Cost: Approx. £30/m2

Pros of a gravel driveway

• Affordability: 'Gravel is typically the most budget-friendly option,' advises Daniel Wickham.
• Permeable: Gravel is naturally permeable, allowing water to drain away into the ground meaning no planning permission will be required for your new driveway.
• Easy to install: This a material that is easy to lay for most DIYers. 'It is also an easy material to top up or replenish' points out Daniel.

For all its benefits there are also a few downsides.

Cons of gravel driveways

• Weeds: Unless you lay a sturdy landscape fabric or gravel grid with a weed membrane, you could find yourself battling weeds on a regular basis.
• Can escape: Due to its loose nature, gravel has the tendency to move around and if it isn't contained properly can escape onto pavements or into flowerbeds. Raking it over regularly can help.

2. Block paving

There's a lot to love about block paving, which comes in a plethora of patterns, materials and designs, from affordable concrete blocks, to brick and natural stone setts.

'Block paving is one of the most common sights on UK driveways. It's been around for years, and for a good reason,' picks up landscaping and driveway expert Guy Wall of GCL Products. 'Bricks are relatively cheap and in plentiful supply, there's dozens of installers in virtually every town across the country and it's quite hard to get wrong.'

Cost: £60-120/m²

Pros of block paving

• Huge design choice: 'You can choose from a number of different paver colours, textures and have them laid in a variety of patterns,' explains Guy Wall.
• Easy repair: Should damage occur to your block paving, fixing it should be easy. 'Repairs are straightforward,' says Guy. 'Just lifting one or two blocks and replacing them is a DIY job for even the biggest hammerphobe.'
• Robust: While it is important to check the kind of load the products you are interested in can bear, block paving is usually perfect for heavy use driveways. 'Block paving handles large, heavy vehicles well and copes well with tyre scrubbing which ideal if you have limited turning room or large vans to park regularly,' says Guy Wall.
• Price options: There is a wide range of prices. Affordable concrete block paving costs around £25/m2 while stone setts sit at approx. £85/m2.

Cons of block paving

• Time-consuming installation: Block paving can be a little fiddly and costly to install, given the individual nature of each block.
• Regular cleaning required: Unlike gravel, block paving does need to be cleaned from time to time. 'Block paving can start to look quite tired quickly as dirt and grime builds up and will require regular jet washing to keep it in tiptop condition,' explains Guy Wall. 'This should be followed up by re-sanding the joints and surface to keep the blocks from rocking and becoming uneven or unsteady. This sanding can take time and involves pushing a sand heap back and forth across the surface to fill up the gaps.' It is also worth looking into how to stop weeds growing in block paving.
• Too uniform for some: While there is a good range of choice and colours, the uniform nature of block paving won't suit all properties. 'While you can have a number of different colours, textures or patterns, the amount of choice is limited in comparison to resin bound or even loose stone,' points out Guy Wall.
• Drainage issues: It is possible to buy permeable block paving, but not all will be, in which case another form of drainage will be required. 'The surface tends to keep water moving around, as only the gaps between blocks are (at best) semi-permeable,' explains Guy Wall. 'This can cause some real problems with water run-off and could result in needing to apply for planning permission and the installation of additional drainage to handle surface water.'

3. Resin bound gravel

Resin driveways are becoming a far more familiar sight in the UK than they once were. The pros far outweigh any disadvantages of resin driveways.

They are formed by mixing resin and small aggregate together before applying this to the surface.

'Resin bound gravel is possibly one of the best all-round surfacing products available on the market today,' enthuses Guy Wall.

Cost: £60-200/m²

Pros of resin bound driveways

• Permeable: 'Resin has an incredibly high permeability rate (up to 1,000 to 1,500 litres/m²/hour),' picks up Guy Wall. 'This helps to protect homes, gardens and garages from surface water flooding, as it behaves like a natural soakaway.'
• Low maintenance: 'All that's required is a regular simple sweep and washing with a pressure washer twice a year,' explains Guy. 'Products such as BOUNDCLEAN and BOUNDSEAL from GCL can help to keep any algae or fungi at bay and keep the surface shiny and new.'
• Colour range: There is a massive choice of colours and your can create all kinds of designs too. 'The range of colours available is virtually infinite,' says Guy. 'Whether you'd like marble, granite, quartz, yellows, reds, greens, greys, rounded, angular, part-round, there's a blend to suit every project. You can even create your own blend.'
• Durability: A properly installed and well-maintained resin bound surface should last for 25-30 years.

Cons of resin bound driveways

• Cost: This is the biggest reason many people don't go for resin bound gravel. 'The price of resin bound gravel can be as much as £200/m² in certain parts or if there's a lot of groundwork to be done,' reveals Guy Wall. 'However, when factoring in that it requires little maintenance and its long lifespan, it's not bad value for money.'
• Installation troubles: This is definitely not one for the DIYer to try out. In fact, finding good installers in general can be hard. 'As this is a comparatively new type of surfacing, there are a number of installers out there who will happily take on work despite never having installed it before,' says Guy. 'You should always try to find an installer you trust, who can show you examples of their past work (not just pictures, as many will 'borrow' photos from other installers).
• Hard to repair: Unlike gravel and block paving, damage can be hard to deal with on resin driveways. 'Repairs are very difficult to disguise, as the surface is laid as one continuous slab, so any damage to the surface will require a highly skilled installer to rectify,' explains Guy.

4. Tarmac

Tarmac has been around for such a long time, providing a simple, fuss free finish. It is often chosen due to how widely availability it is and for its 'tried-and-tested' reliability. That said, when you consider the pros and cons of tarmac driveways, it may not always add much to your front garden ideas.

'It's cost-efficient, quick to install and it's smooth and neat,' says Guy Wall. 'It's little surprise it's on many drives all across the country. There's dozens of installers everywhere, so no worry of finding a suitable contractor to do the job.'

Cost: £40-90/m²

Pros of tarmac driveways

• Affordability: Perfect for those on a budget thanks to cheaper material and installation costs.
• Durability: This is suitable for really heavy use. 'No matter whether a car, van or truck, tarmac can usually handle the task with ease,' says Guy Wall.
• Longevity: 'A properly laid tarmac surface can last for 10-15 years before starting to degrade,' advises Guy.
• Repairable: Damage to a tarmac drive is usually easy to rectify. 'It's a very straightforward repair process which often blends into the surface perfectly,' says Guy.

Cons of tarmac driveways

• Limited design options: For all its pros, tarmac isn't necessarily the most aesthetically pleasing surface. 'It is the least exciting of the surfacing types, it's so boring and plain,' picks up Guy Wall. 'It's generally available in one colour, one texture.'
• Impermeable: You may well require planning permission for a tarmac driveway if it is over 5m2 as it isn't usually permeable. 'You may also need to install additional drainage to handle surface water,' points out Guy Wall.
• Melts in the heat: While UK temperatures rarely soar, it is getting more common and tarmac doesn't love the heat. 'It can melt in high temperatures and become tacky, or even sink or rut, and once it has melted and resolidified it can do so with imperfections, causing cracks or crumbling to occur in winter,' warns Guy.
• Dulls over time: Depending on the look you are after, the surface of tarmac can wear down over time. 'It may need resealing in order for the drive to look fresh,' explains Daniel Wickham.

5. Imprinted concrete

Also known as 'stamped', or 'patterned' concrete, and a relative newcomer to the driveway scene, imprinted concrete is fast gaining in the popularity stakes.

Unlike block paving, which uses individual blocks to create the surface, this method involves pouring a layer of concrete onto a suitable sub-base. Before the concrete sets, a pattern is imprinted into it using a mat, with a choice of designs, such as brickwork or textured stone, available.

A colour and hardener are then applied. The aim is to get the look of more expensive or less durable materials and this can be a great budget alternative to paving slabs.

Cost: Between £70-£100/m2

Pros of imprinted concrete

• Appearance: Many products do a very good job of mimicking the look of stone or high-end block paving.
• Low-maintenance: With no joints, weeds are less likely to sprout than with gravel or block paving.
• Quick installation: When compared to block paving, installation is faster.
• Strong: Able to withstand heavy traffic without sagging or cracking.
• Long-lasting: When installed properly, you can expect imprinted concrete to last at least 20 years and up to 30.

Cons of imprinted concrete driveways

• Complex installation: This is not the best option if you want to lay your driveway on a DIY basis. 'It may have a more complex and expensive installation process,' explains Daniel Wickham.
• Prone to cracking: 'Small cracks may appear and become more apparent over time than with other materials,' warns Daniel.
• Manmade appearance: If you want a natural, classic look you might be better off with gravel or stone setts.

What's the best material for a driveway?

The best material for your driveway depends on how much you are willing to spend, the type of house you live in and how you want to use the new space, for example if you want to incorporate some front garden path ideas.

If you are on a budget and want to carry out the installation of your new driveway yourself, gravel should be your number one choice. However, if you want something that looks sleek and modern and requires next to nothing in terms of maintenance, you'd be hard pushed to find a better option than resin bound gravel.

If you live in traditional property and want a smart, classic finish, stone setts are ideal, while if it is a quick, cost effective and practical finish, tarmac should be your go-to.

FAQs

Which driveway material is the most eco-friendly?

This a tricky one. If you are interested in a sustainable garden, all of the above can be specified to be a little more eco-friendly. Obviously natural and locally-sourced materials are always going to be a more ecologically sound option, but it isn't that straightforward.

'Whether you opt for a block paved driveway, resin driveway or a concrete imprint driveway, the key is to select materials and designs that align with eco-conscious principles,' explains Daniel Wickham. 'Investing in paving solutions that utilise recycled materials in driveway construction and promote permeable surfaces will lead to sustainable choices that benefit both your home and the planet.'

You could also consider a grass driveway, used in conjunction with a grid system. These cost around £40-90/m².

'Grass and gravel grids are a simple and effective way to reinforce the ground without losing that natural look,' explains Guy |Wall. 'They’re perfect for driveways, giving strength and stability while still letting water drain straight through.

'They’re fully SuDS compliant, so they allow rainwater to soak into the ground naturally, helping to reduce surface water run-off and flooding,' continues Guy. 'If you’re building a new driveway or parking area and want to avoid the need for planning permission, this kind of surfacing can tick many of the boxes for you. Grids can often be laid directly on the base left after lifting slabs or block-pavers, meaning much less is involved in ground preparation. There's virtually no raking required, cars do not sink into gravel surfaces and grass can look lush and green all year round.'

What's the cheapest driveway material?

Gravel is hands-down the cheapest driveway material, with average prices of £30/m2, although it isn't too hard to find lower. If you lay it on a DIY basis too you will save further on labour costs.

Make sure you check the best time to get your driveway done and whether you need planning permission for your driveway upgrade before you start work.

Ever since I moved into my 1970s detached house in 2015, I have wanted to change the conservatory roof.

Added by the previous owners, the south-facing conservatory was around 20 years old(at a guess) and had a glass roof, which made it unbearably hot in the summer and freezing cold in the winter. Beyond those wild temperature fluctuations, it meant the conservatory was unusable for around eight months of the year. And when not used as a room, it quickly became a dumping ground for my laundry pile or items waiting to go to the charity shop.

After grumbling about it for more than a decade, I finally took the plunge and replaced the glass conservatory roof with a lightweight solid alternative, and even just a handful of weeks in, the results have been game-changing.

1. I wouldn't have wasted money on stuff that didn't work

When I inherited my conservatory from the previous owners, there were no blinds in there, which was another huge problem for me and my super sunlight-sensitive eyes.

But buying a house is an expensive endeavour, moving house is full on and the idea of modernising the conservatory with a new roof at that point felt a step too far. And so I spent £3,000 on conservatory roof blinds, which were great for the brightness issue, but not very successful on creating a more comfortable temperature in there.

However, hindsight is a wonderful thing, and given how thrilled I am with the results, I wish I hadn't waited.

2. The temperature is much more consistent

Granted I have only been living with the new conservatory roof for a few weeks at this point, but that's definitely been long enough for me to tell that the drastic temperature fluctuations I was dealing with are now a thing of the past.

Heatwaves tend to trigger some hot weather anxiety for me, and the conservatory has always been a source of stress during the summer. On the hot days we've had recently though, it is now noticeable cooler inside the conservatory than out (with the glass roof, it often felt hotter inside than out during the summer), which is a major win.

While winter is a long way away, some cooler nights when the new roof was first installed have demonstrated that it's going to be much cosier in the conservatory when temperatures drop.

3. The sound reduction is impressive

The pitter-patter of gentle rain on a conservatory roof can be really lovely to listen to, but during heavy downpours, having a glass roofed conservatory can sound like you are sitting in a carwash.

No longer an issue with the new roof.

4. I know I can now use the space all year round

Over the last decade, I have tried to use the conservatory as a living room, reading nook, dining area and home office, but the issue of temperature has meant that none of those uses ever really stuck, and the conservatory became a no man's land that I never used.

But now it's going to be a much more comfortable temperature in there, regardless of the season, I'm so excited to use it more. In fact I've already used it more in the last few weeks than I have in the last 12 months.

Tips if you are planning on changing your conservatory roof

If you're tempted to change your conservatory into more of a conservatory extension by adding a solid roof, then here are my top tips:

• Choose a reputable specialist. With conservatories largely made of glass, you need someone with bags of experience to tackle changing the roof. They can also sort the other trades you'll need light electrician and plasterers, as well as Building Regulations.
• Have a look at your neighbours conservatories. I spotted so many conservatories with solid roofs while out on dog walks, and I can even see a couple from my garden. And so when it came time to choose the roof tile colour for my new roof, it was really helpful to be able to see real-life examples when making my decision.
• Incorporate window blinds for ultimate solar control. While they were removed during the building work, the window blinds in the conservatory are still as worth their weight in gold as the day they were installed.
• Opt for pelmet lighting. It might be included in the scope of changing the roof, but if not, I highly recommend you opt for pelmet spotlights in your conservatory. I had a wall light before, and I hadn't realised how inadequate that was until I turned the pelmet spotlights on for the first time.
• Mist coat the fresh plaster. Your solid roof will be plastered internally, and when you paint it, you'll need to do a mist coat (which is when you water the paint down for the first layer). I'm not always the most patient decorator, but I was very glad I didn't skip the mist coat.

While this new roof has made a huge difference to my home, it's not the only change I've made that's had a big impact. This small structural alteration turned out to be a gamechanger.

If you’re planning to boost your property’s thermal performance as part of a renovation project, improving the thermal efficiency of the outer walls can make a huge difference to what you spend on energy bills.

Modern brick homes may have cavity wall insulation that does the job for you (although you can boost the thermal efficiency by adding insulating render too), but in older homes with solid walls, you may need to look methods of external wall insulation instead.

Offering a clean-looking finish and a protective layer against the weather, insulating render is one possible solution that can be added to your home’s exterior walls. But before choosing to render your house, it’s important to do your research into the most suitable render solution for your type of property and its location.

However, if you want to find out more about the specifics of insulating render, how it’s applied and – importantly – how much it costs, keep on reading.

What is insulating render and what is its purpose?

Before we get into the details, it’s important to lay out the difference between insulated render systems and insulating render. In this article, it’s the latter we’ll be focusing on, so it’s important to get to grips with the difference between these two solutions.

Insulated render systems are a type of external wall insulation that comprises insulation boards of XPS, EPS or mineral wool that are fixed to the outside of a property. These are then finished with a render base-coat and mesh, plus a decorative top-coat, to help prevent heat from leaking out through your home’s walls.

Typically, an EWI system is between 90mm – 120mm thick and comprises multiple layers, so you need to consider the impact the added thickness these layers will have on your property.

'However, a new generation of ‘insulating render’ products has emerged over recent years,' says Andy Pyke, technical director at ProofShield. 'They also provide significant levels of insulation by incorporating lightweight aggregates and ceramic microspheres to create air bubbles within the render, which prevent heat flow through the render itself.'

For instance, ProofShield’s ThermoSilicone Render System uses ultra-lightweight expanded Perlite in its base layer to establish an uninterrupted, highly efficient thermal barrier to conduction of heat.

Cornerstone’s Insulating Render, on the other hand, is a dry ready mixed render designed as a lightweight fibred base layer for external applications. Comprised of 100% pure hydraulic lime, recycled glass aggregates and other conservation-suitable additives, this solution is well-suited for homeowners looking to reduce thermal losses from exterior walls. According to data gathered by Cornerstone, a 50mm application of the product will improve the U-value (a measure of heat loss, where lower numbers are better) of a solid wall by 50% or more.

How is insulating render applied?

Insulating render is applied in exactly the same way as a regular render system – first, the thermal base layer is applied to a depth of 2-3cm before being flattened off. Next, it’s finished with a through-coloured, weatherproof topcoat for a clean, modern-looking finish.

One of the main reasons to apply a render finish to your home is to improve its external appearance and increase its resistance to the elements. Therefore, this type of coating should only be applied to an existing property if the walls are structurally sound and free from damp, otherwise you risk trapping moisture inside the structure of the wall itself.

While a fresh, rendered finish offers a sure-fire route to boosting your home's kerb appeal, for the best possible results it’s worth bringing in the professionals to do the job for you. A badly applied layer of render can ruin the look of your property, so always be sure to check the standards of the renderers you employ to make sure their work is up to scratch.

How much does insulating render cost?

There are multiple factors that’ll affect how much it costs to finish your house exterior with insulating render, including the size of the area you’re planning on applying the render across and the condition of the substrate beneath.

'If we make some assumptions that the substrate to be rendered is reasonably sound, then the costs of using an insulating render versus a regular render are very close to one another,' says Andy. 'This may sound a little counterintuitive, but when you consider that around two thirds of the total cost for re-rendering your home is made up of labour and access (scaffolding) and that only one third or so is the actual materials, it starts to make more sense.'

ProofShield’s ThermoSilicone insulating render system costs around £18 per m2 in materials, and typically around £60 per m2 for installation. 'If you went for a regular, non-insulating render system, you might save £4-5 per m2 in material costs, but the installation costs would be the same,' says Andy.

Is insulating render a good idea?

Insulating render is like a breathable jacket that’ll freshen up the outside of your house, regardless of its age or construction type. Therefore, it’s a solution that’s suitable for many homes in need of thermal and aesthetic improvements.

However, there are some exceptions. For instance, if your home has issues with damp, adding a layer of render over the top isn’t going to fix the issue – so you’ll need to address the underlying cause of the problem before applying insulating render.

When it comes to older buildings, according to Andy, there’s a lot of developing research and evidence on the need for breathability. 'If you wrap up an old building in an airtight layer of insulation boards (XPS or EPS), then it completely blocks the path of the moisture vapour that would normally have been able to transpire through the walls, and can then lead to problems with mould growth triggered by condensation.'

Traditional sand and cement renders can also trap moisture within walls in much the same way. 'Conversely, insulating render is highly vapour-permeable and actually helps balance moisture levels, reducing the risk of mouldy walls,' says Andy.

Cornerstone’s insulating lime render is also highly vapour permeable to support moisture management, and is capable of absorbing, storing and buffering excess moisture.

Remember, if you live in a conservation area or any other designated zone, you may need to apply for planning permission if you want to re-render external walls. Building Regulations approval may also apply, depending on the extent of the work you’re carrying out – always check with your local authority for peace of mind before you start.

Cladding is a sought-after solution on renovation and extension projects across the UK. But with composite and timber both popular options, how do they actually compare?

Both types of cladding have their key differences, advantages and drawbacks. But is one actually better than the other? I asked the experts for their take.

What’s the difference between composite and timber cladding?

In order to understand which is exterior cladding is best for your home, you need to understand where the two materials differ on they key considerations you'd have as a homeowner.

While timber cladding may seem pretty self-explanatory, composite cladding may not.

This solution is typically made from a combination of wood fibres, recycled materials, polymers and binding agents to establish a hardwearing finish that needs minimal upkeep.

I've spoken to cladding experts in order to dive deeper into how these two options compare.

Material characteristics

Wood is a robust and renewable resource that offers excellent longevity, and there’s a plethora of timber species, treatments and finishes to choose from. 'Timber cladding, made from natural wood, offers warmth, authenticity and timeless character, weathering to a silvery grey if left uncoated,' says Tom Barnes from Vastern Timber.

Composite cladding, on the other hand, is typically made from a blend of recycled wood fibres and plastics, providing a low-maintenance cladding solution. 'It’s highly resistant to weathering, pests and fading, meaning it stays looking fresh year after year with minimal fuss,' says Toby Allen from NeoTimber.

Aesthetics

The characterful grain, plus the unique knots and patterns on the wood surface, are one of the main attractions of natural timber. There’s a plethora of shades available depending on the wood species and finish you choose, from the honey-colour hue of oak to the deep reds and browns of Western red cedar.

'The natural origins of timber mean each board comes with a subtly unique figuring and, depending on the species, different knot shapes, sizes and patterns,' says Graham Whitfield from Russwood.

As composite cladding is a manufactured product, the surface appearance of the wood will likely look a lot more uniform than authentic timber. However, it comes in an array of shades and finishes to suit your home.

'Composite cladding comes in a range of colours and finishes that stay true over time, offering a sleek and uniform appearance without the risk of splitting or warping,' says Laura Cranston from Ecoscape.

Durability & maintenance

Minimal upkeep requirements are one reason homeowners are attracted to the idea of installing composite cladding rather than timber. 'Composite cladding doesn’t require annual painting, staining or sealing, and it resists issues like rot, insect damage and UV fading,' says Laura from Ecoscape.

In contrast, all timber products will weather over time, so some level of maintenance will be required to keep a natural wood finish looking good. Weathering is a process that changes the surface appearance of the cladding and could, over the course of months and years, change the overall appearance of your property.

'South-west facing walls weather relatively fast, due to their exposure to sunlight, whereas north-facing walls tend to weather more slowly, but uniformly,' says Graham from Russwood. 'If uneven weathering is a concern, SiOO:X, a patented wood surface modification treatment, can be applied. This achieves a consistently weathered appearance at an accelerated rate.'

Well-maintained softwood cladding can last between 30 and 50 years, or more, depending on the wood species. Hardwood cladding, such as oak, can last up to 100 years if it’s looked after well.

Environmental impact

There are sustainability advantages to both natural timber and composite cladding, which can be a huge draw to homeowners. 'Both can be environmentally-conscious choices – it just depends whether you prioritise renewability [wood] or recycled content and longevity [composite],' says Laura from Ecoscape.

If you’re investing in timber cladding, double check the supply chain that shows where your wood came from to ensure it was sourced from a responsibly managed forest. Wood that comes with a seal of approval from the FSC or PEFC shows that it’s come from a sustainably managed source.

'Choosing wood from legal, well-managed forests ensures that the harvesting of the wood is sustainable over the long term, while buying locally reduces transport emissions and supports local woodlands, as well as rural economies,' says Tom from Vastern Timber.

Composite cladding scores extra green points due to the nature of the recycled content it contains. 'It makes use of recycled materials, reducing waste and extending the lifecycle of resources like plastics and wood by-products,' says Laura from Ecoscape.

Cost

When it comes to how much house cladding costs, you'll need to consider both upfront and ongoing costs if you are choosing between timber and composite cladding.

There are options for all budgets when it comes to timber cladding. Untreated softwood boarding sits at the cheaper end of the price spectrum and could cost as little as £25 per m2.

However, don’t forget you’ll need to factor in ongoing upkeep costs. If left untreated, some of the cheaper softwoods won’t offer the longevity required for external cladding. Hardwood solutions with fewer knots tend to be more expensive, and could sit in the region of £100 per m2.

'The cost of timber cladding ranges from approximately £25 per m2 for sawn larch feather-edge to £90 per m2 for high-end timbers such as thermally modified ash and Canadian cedar, with plenty of options in between,' says Tom.

High-quality composite products tend to cost more than some types of natural timber. Yet, this cost difference should be factored against the savings you’ll make over the years on reapplying any maintenance treatments.

'As a general starting point, you should budget around £50-£70 per m2 for entry-level composite cladding systems,' says Laura from Ecoscape. 'If you’re looking at more premium, design-led solutions – those that offer richer colour variations, deeper grain textures and enhanced weather resistance – the price can rise to £100 - £140 per m2.'

Installation

If you’re confident in your DIY skills, installing your own timber cladding is possible. However, sleek, crisp designs that require a sharp level of detail are best left to the professionals for the best possible finish. Some of the most common mistakes include failing to leave a sufficient expansion gap between individual boards, laying out the fittings incorrectly or using the wrong fixings altogether. So for some, this may be one of those renovation tasks best left to the pros.

However, composite could be more tricky to install. Depending on the exact product you choose, it’s possible that composite cladding may be heavier than a lot of natural wood solutions, which means there might be some additional requirements at the installation phase.

'Additional support battens or large fixings may be required to secure these boards and end caps might be required to cover cut boards,' says Ed Sutch from Vincent Timber.

Which is better – composite or timber cladding?

There are some scenarios where timber will be the better choice for your project – for instance, if you’re working on a strict heritage renovation or conversion project where natural timber is a requirement laid out by your local planning department. Plus, if you want to enjoy the natural evolution of your cladding’s colour as it’s exposed to the elements, authentic wood is the best option.

Durability and maintenance is where composite cladding may have the edge over natural timber. 'Composite cladding doesn’t warp, rot, splinter or fade,' says Toby from NeoTimber. 'No regular painting, staining or sealing is required – just sit back and enjoy.'

In some environments, like coastal locations, natural timber cladding is probably not the best solution as it may decay quickly. In this case, the robust nature of composite boards will likely serve your home better.

Ultimately, the choice between timber and composite cladding comes down to your project priorities and the unique features and location of your home. You should also weigh up whether you are prepared to undertake ongoing maintenance (or pay a professional to do it). If not, then it's best to pay a little more upfront and opt for composite cladding over timber.

If you're not looking to clad your whole house (or extension), consider paring the cladding with render for a clean, contemporary look.

Finishing your house with the right type of cladding can completely transform its appearance. It could be adding a modern composite to an extension or covering dated pebbledash with timber during a renovation.

You might be inspired by the houses and landscape around you to inform your exterior house cladding, or go off the wall with something completely contrasting. However, you should remember that the quality and style of the material you choose will impact not only how much your cladding costs, but the kerb appeal you create and the maintenance that may be required in the future.

What types of cladding are there?

You can clad a house in pretty much anything — there are endless options for you to choose from, so it’s easier to break the choices down into sections.

You don’t have to stick to the same groupings, in fact, mixing and matching materials often creates a more interesting and well-considered appearance to a house.

Natural cladding materials

Brick is seen up and down the country and is the UK’s most popular cladding material. It’s fuss-free, relatively easy to install and essentially maintenance free. Brick slips are a thinner version of whole bricks, and can be used to save costs — as they're lightweight, they can clad timber frame or other modern construction methods.

Stone is a material most likely seen on old cottages, where the walls were not just clad, but built with it – think, cosy creamy-yellow in the Cotswolds and dark blue in South Wales and the South West.

Knapped flint is also commonly seen as a cladding for churches and homes in East Anglia. Modern extensions or even traditional-style new builds might use stone cladding to fit in better with the houses around them.

Timber is a universal cladding choice, with variations in treatment and installation defining areas of the UK. Relatively cost effective, timber can be varnished, charred, painted or left to silver with age. However, it can require a lot of maintenance to ensure the timber doesn’t warp or rot when exposed to the elements.

Man-made cladding

PVC replicates the look of timber to a fairly convincing degree, especially higher quality options, which will more accurately reproduce the grain of wood. It’s cheaper than wood and far less maintenance, but will only last around 25-30 years before degrading.

Composite cladding is still made from plastic like PVC, but is usually recyclable and made from sustainable or recycled materials mixed with waste hardwood. It’s very lightweight and easy to install.

'Against timber the benefit [of composite materials] is based on the reduced maintenance time and costs, although upfront cost of composite is usually more than timber, after about 5 years of having to treat timber composite becomes a better value option,' argues James Brueton co-founder of Envirobuild.

'[The benefits compared with] PVC is more on the environmental side, the manufacturing of PVC plastic produces very toxic chlorine gasses, also aesthetically PVC will look more 'plasticy', the only other one would be cement board which again has a less natural appearance to composite cladding.'

Find out how composite cladding compares to timber cladding with our expert guide.

Fibre cement panels/boards can look remarkably similar to wood and stone but are highly resistant to water corrosion, fire and UV and ultra low-maintenance, making them a great alternative to PVC and timber.

Metal cladding

Steel provides instant character to a house and suits both modern and traditional houses — in fact, you might see this material around conservation properties from the National Trust or English Heritage. Weathered steel (usually labelled Corten) is a longer-lasting and more durable version or steel, but often comes with a much higher price tag.

Aluminium cladding is best suited to more contemporary-styled extensions as it can come in a huge range of colours and finishes. It’s lightweight and will ‘weather’ in time due to the oxidisation process, protecting itself with layers of durability.

Zinc can be costly but utterly unmatched in elegance. Its understated yet striking nature is paired with its flexibility, making it useful for awkward shapes.

Copper is more often seen on roofs of industrial buildings or churches, but is more recently seen on domestic houses, giving a vibrant green-blue patina over time that is impossible to replicate with other materials. This material is of the higher end of the price scale, but will last indefinitely.

'Metal cladding, particularly standing seam metals like copper and zinc, give much more flexibility for the shape of the building,' adds Adrian James, director at Adrian James Architects. 'The skin can be at any angle (apart from flat) and can fold and curve to suit almost any form, however sculptural, from facetted polyhedrons to domes and any combination thereof.'

What should you consider when choosing the right cladding for your home?

Choosing the right cladding will depend of entirely individual circumstances. There are some key factors which will be utterly unique to you and your project so there is no right or wrong answer.

First, consider your budget. Cladding will cost anywhere from £20/m2 to £200/m2, depending on your choice. The cheapest options are PVC, untreated timber, fibre cement and brick, all offered at around £30/m2. The most expensive cladding types are zinc, copper and stone.

Difficulty of installation should also be factored in as the average tradesperson or enthusiastic DIYer might be able to lay bricks and batten timber, but installing standing seam metal is an art. Give appropriate consideration to the finish of your material and identify how tricky it might be to get the quality you’re after - it will affect your overall budget.

The ‘local vernacular’ is a phrase often used by architects and designers — or Kevin McCloud on Grand Designs— when considering cladding. Using local materials, even in interesting and creative ways, is usually a good way to secure planning permission and to better fit in with the surroundings.

How exposed your property is might further narrow down the choices of cladding available to you. For most homes, sheltered by other houses or hills, this shouldn’t be a problem. However, homes on the coast or on flat land where wind picks up speed or snow is frequent, the durability and longevity of the cladding will be tested. Remember, cladding doesn’t just cover your home for aesthetic purposes, it protects it first and foremost.

Finally, future maintenance is an often-neglected factor in cladding choices, but is hugely important. If you like doing DIY and can hop up a ladder to paint/varnish wood every few years then fantastic, but a lower maintenance option might be more suitable for those that can’t, and cost afford to pay someone else to.

What’s the best type of cladding?

The best type of cladding for your home will depend on the design, your finances and the climate the property will face. But the key is to work with the experts to choose the best option for your project,

'Hire an architect that has a lot of experience using cladding in projects,' suggests Stuart Archer, founder of Archer + Braun Architects. 'If doing a self-build (and not using an architect - the horror!) then we'd advise speaking to a specialist supplier who will be able to advise on all of the above. Also, choosing a builder that has worked with similar cladding is a good idea, and seeing an example of their work would be even better.'

If cladding isn't the right option for your home, there are other ways to add kerb appeal to your home to make it look its absolute best.

Cladding is an especially underrated, but incredibly important, element of any house design project. It will be instrumental in how your house is perceived and how it ages in time. But how much does house cladding cost and how can you make sure you are getting value for money?

Understanding the different types of exterior cladding, their pros and cons and associated costs is crucial so you can ensure you achieve the finish you’re looking for, rather than having to compromise when it comes to budget.

However, the price of the cladding itself shouldn't be the only cost considered. Installation difficulty, ongoing maintenance fees, and lifespan all need to be factored into your calculations so that you spend your money wisely.

How much does house cladding cost?

If you're looking to refresh your home's exterior, the type of cladding you choose will take up a large chunk of your budget, and so it's a good idea to have an estimate of how big the area you're looking to cover is.

Also, if you’re enticed by a certain type of more expensive cladding, remember that you can mix and match styles; this often creates a more interesting house aesthetic.

We've broken down the prices of the most popular cladding types:

PVC

• Material cost: £20/m2
• Installation: Extremely easy to DIY install
• Maintenance: Very low — a quick clean with a pressure washer will keep it looking its best
• Lifespan: 25+ years — better quality cladding will be more resistant to UV and degradation

Timber

• Softwood cost: £24/m2
• Hardwood cost: £45/m2+
• Installation: Simple to install on a DIY basis, with the right equipment
• Maintenance: Regular maintenance required, including sanding and repainting/varnishing every 2-5 years
• Lifespan: 60+ years (well maintained hardwood can last an extraordinarily long time, so offers great value for money)

Fibre cement

• Material cost: £35/m2
• Installation: Relatively tricky to install, so best left to professionals
• Maintenance: Very low — use soapy water for a quick clean when required and avoid pressure washers
• Lifespan: 45+ years

Brick

• Brick: £40/m2
• Brick slips: £35/m2
• Installation: Both bricks and brick slips can be installed by a competent DIYer, but to get a good finish a professional might be required. Brick slips weigh significantly less and can be installed at a much faster rate, which would bring fees down
• Maintenance: Minimal — the mortar around the brick might need repointing every 30 or so years
• Lifespan: 100+ years

Composite

• Material cost: £40/m2
• Installation: Can be installed on a DIY basis
• Maintenance: Very low and can be cleaned using a pressure washer
• Lifespan: Around 25 years

Stone

• Whole stone: £150/m2
• Stone slips: £60/m2
• Installation: Can be done DIY, but might require specialist tools. For best results and experienced professional will be required
• Maintenance: Very low, but might need repointing every 30 years
• Lifespan: 100+ years

Zinc

• Material cost: £150/m2+
• Installation: Zinc cladding installation is absolutely best done by a professional, especially standing seam or other complex designs
• Maintenance: Very low — mild detergents are useful for stubborn dirt but pressure washers should be avoided, even in hard to reach areas
• Lifespan: 60+ years

What factors affect the cost of your house cladding?

There are other factors which should be considered when choosing the right cladding for your home and budget, which could swing the choice one way or the other.

The size of your property, for one, will be a fundamental consideration. If you’re only looking to clad a small side extension, perhaps a more lavish splurge on high-end cladding can be budgeted for, but when you’re cladding a whole house, these costs can quickly spiral out of the range of affordability.

The complexity of the installation and the equipment required for it (such as specialist membranes, battens, fixings, tools) should also be totted up.

For professionals to take on the task, get at least three quotes before you make a decision and if the cladding is especially unusual or rare (such as zinc or copper), ensure they are experienced and have examples of previous work.

'Another thing to consider is how the boards are fixed to the structure behind it,' says Stuart Archer, founder of Archer + Braun Architects, speaking of timber cladding. 'This can be done with secret fixings or visible screws. It's important to get this right as if you don't consider it you can choose some lovely timber cladding and a builder can end up using any old screws, wherever they want and it could end up looking a bit of a mess!'

On site preparation — such as proper storage of material and disposal of old cladding — should be taken into account too. If you’re using tradespeople, make sure everyone is clear about who is responsible for each job before work commences.

Finally, you need to take a long-term view too. Ongoing maintenance costs can be frustrating if you’re not factored them in from the outset. Timber will need to be repainted or revarnished every few years, which will need materials and time.

You may be able to undertake this job yourself, but if it's outside of your capabilities, professional fees will need to be paid.

And so it's worth weighing up how the initial and ongoing costs will compare. For example, if you compare composite and timber cladding, composite cladding will require very little in terms of ongoing maintenance, while you may need to pay a pro every few years to keep your timber cladding looking its best.

What type of cladding offers the best value for money?

The cladding that will give you the best value for money will depend on where you live, the climate you live in, the area to be clad and if you choose to professionally install it or go DIY.

In terms of maintenance and lifespan against material and installation costs, brick would be one of the best cladding options to give value for money. Stone and hardwood timber would also be high on the list due to their long life expectancy, but the latter’s maintenance costs means they would be approximately the same cost again over time.

'A copper clad building is more expensive than a brick or timber outer skin, but over the life of the building this is offset by the materials extreme durability and lack of maintenance and longevity,' argues Adrian James, director of Adrian James Architects. 'This means any additional capital cost at the start of the project will more than offset the fact there will be no further work needed on the cladding for as long as the building itself lasts.'

While cost will be a large concern, try not to let it be the only determining factor. Achieving the finish and kerb appeal you are looking for should also be valued.

FAQs

Is it cheaper to clad or render a house?

House render can cost anywhere between £50/m2 and £100/m2, depending on the type and quality of render, and particular finish/colour you choose.

That puts it cheaper than stone or zinc cladding, but more expensive than the other cladding materials on the list above, so it is not necessarily cheaper to render a house than to clad it.

It’s generally best if render is applied by a tradesperson or specialist and unless you opt for monocouche render (on the higher end of the price scale), and remember, the house will need to be repainted every few years to maintain a good finish.

If you do opt for cladding, then it's worthwhile also trying some of these other ways to add kerb appeal to your home to make it look its absolute best.

If your windows are due to be replaced, you'll need to carefully consider all the options available to you. And when it comes to the glazing in particular, it's important to assess whether triple glazing is worth it in your home.

When weighing up double vs triple glazing, the right option for your home will largely depend on your efficiency goals and available budget.

But ultimately, is the extra expense associated with an additional pane a sensible investment? We asked the experts to find out.

Is triple glazing worth it?

There's a sizeable cost difference between double and triple glazed windows as Liam Spencer, owner of Northallerton Glass, explains: ‘As a general estimate, triple glazing can cost around 30% to 50% more than double glazing. An average double glazed window may cost roughly £325, compared to £485 for a triple glazed window, with a £160 difference per window between the two.’

So you'll understandably want to make sure you are going to reap added benefits if you are going to fork out more to buy and install triple glazed units.

'The extra expense of triple glazing can be worth it, as they can be two and a half times more efficient than older double glazed windows,' adds Liam. And a modernised home with an improved EPC rating could also be worth more if you are planning on selling.

However, for some triple glazing won't be the right solution, according to home heating expert Nicholas Auckland: 'Triple glazing can be worth it, but it's not always necessary for every home, especially if you're tight on budget. It's definitely best to consider a whole-house approach to energy efficiency, rather than a standalone upgrade.

'I recommend upgrading standard or low quality double glazing to high quality A-rated double glazing before opting for triple glazing.'

Can all homes benefit from triple glazing?

Before you invest in triple glazing, it's worth remembering that some homes will benefit from it more than others.

So you'll need to carefully assess how the benefits of triple glazing will apply to your specific home and circumstances.

Energy efficiency

If you are looking to improve your home's energy efficiency and you are planning on staying in your home for the foreseeable future, then triple glazing could be a good option.

Liam explains: 'A standard double glazed window has an average WER (windows energy rating) of A, with A+ being the highest available most often. In comparison, triple glazed windows can have an average WER of A++, and upgrading to triple glazing can result in up to 50% more energy efficiency.'

But to get the most out of the investment and maximise comfort levels, your home will need to be pretty airtight in the first place.

In an old, draughty property, installing triple glazing could be a bit of a waste of money unless you bring in some serious draught-proofing ideas alongside their installation, which could add significantly to the cost.

From a temperature regulation point of view, triple glazing can be effective, but you are likely to feel the benefits more in a colder climate than one that doesn't necessarily see extremes of temperature.

The best option is to speak to your glazing provider about the energy efficiency of different glazing types on offer as you may be able to achieve your goals with a double glazed unit, with potential a specialist glass coating, without having to go to the expense of triple glazing.

Security

With the extra thickness and weight that comes along with a third pane, triple glazing needs to be housed in a robust frame. This can add to it's security credentials, which can be a huge plus point for homeowners.

However, that additional sturdiness also means extra weight, which can make triple glazed windows more challenging to open.

Before opting for triple glazing to improve security alone, it's worth considering how you can maximise these credentials with a double-glazed unit first, especially if you are looking to keep costs as low as possible.

Noise reduction

If outside noise is a problem in your home, then triple glazing may be a worthy investment.

Liam says: 'Certain homes may benefit more from installing triple glazing than others. For example, a property in a noisy area will benefit more from triple glazing due to their superior soundproofing qualities, as the sound has to penetrate through an additional pane of glass. This can be useful if you live near an airport or under a flight path, or by a busy road.'

According to the Federation of Master Builders, triple glazed windows can reduce external noise by an additional 10 decibels compared to double glazed windows.

For really troublesome noise, it's also worth considering paying extra for special acoustic glass.

But before you commit, it's worth comparing the soundproofing credentials of high spec double glazing against those of triple glazing, as in some cases, the double glazing may be all you need.

How to maximise the benefits of triple glazing

If you are going to pay extra for triple glazing, it's worthwhile paying attention to the potential return on your investment.

If, after speaking to glazing experts, you find that triple glazing can solve your specific issues better than high quality double glazing, then it's likely to be a sound choice.

After all, improving how you live in and interact with your home can be priceless. And if triple glazing can have a positive impact on your energy bills at the same time, then all the better.

But to get the most out of your triple glazing, it's best to adopt a whole house approach as Nicholas explains: 'For the standard home you might not see a significant return on investment unless you’re upgrading every element of the home's insulation.'

However, if you are hoping to recoup the initial costs in the form of reduced energy bills, you'll need to think long-term. If you want to install triple glazing but are planning on selling up in the short-term, you are unlikely to maximise the benefit of those lower bills.

EDITOR’S NOTE: An earlier version of this article included a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote has been removed. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

Channelling coastal and country vibes, cladding your home's exterior is a popular and affordable way to update the exterior of your home. It can cover render or brickwork, elevate an understated façade, or help an extension blend in with the rest of the house.

However, the benefits of exterior cladding don't stop there. It can help your home stand up against the elements – particularly valuable for exposed or coastal properties. Cladding also bolsters a property’s insulation.

‘Cladding your home's exterior adds another cavity to the exterior of your home so it helps with noise insulation and improves the building’s thermal properties,’ says Simon Cresswell, director of The Gutter & Cladding Company.

Alongside front door ideas, cladding your home's exterior is one of the best ways to make your house exterior look more expensive. But with something that can completely alter your house's appearance, you want to get it right the first time – after all, everyone can see it!

1. Choosing the right material

Choosing the right type of cladding will set you up for success.

There are several materials available and the right choice will depend on the look you want to achieve. Cladding options range from paintable render and timber to metal, uPVC and stone.

‘When cladding your home's exterior, consider choosing a material that holds extra benefits. Fibre cement is very popular because it ticks all the boxes. It does not rot, rust, warp or crack; has excellent fire classification; uses fewer raw materials and less energy and generates less waste than some traditional building materials,’ says Lisa Grosse, brand manager at Cedral UK. ‘Request samples of your cladding material and expose them to different natural light, such as sun and evening light, to ensure you are happy before you commit.’

Composite is another popular and sustainable material. ‘Made from recycled wood and plastic, composite takes the best qualities from both materials, namely the look and feel of natural wood grain combined with the easy maintenance and longevity of plastic,’ says Ben Allen, director at NeoTimber. ‘It’s available in a variety of colours and textures, so you can easily find an option to match your home.’

Find out how composite compares to timber cladding with our guide.

2. Know your budget

The cost of cladding your home's exterior depends on the quantity of cladding and the materials used. ‘Some companies will have an online calculator to help you budget, but be aware that the installation will also require further costs, and you’ll need to consider extra fees for things like scaffolding,’ says Lisa Grosse from Cedral UK.

Simon Cresswell of The Gutter & Cladding Company advises that an average four-bedroom detached top-half of the house cladding with insulation costs around £12,000.

3. Understand the rules and regulations

Similar to rendering a house, you do not require planning permission when cladding your home's exterior, as it is usually considered permitted development.

However, if you live in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty or a conservation area, or in a listed building, then permission may be required. Contact your local planning authority for advice before starting work.

‘There are also regulations regarding the energy performance of the renovated shell of your home,’ says Lisa Grosse from Cedral UK. ‘This legislation aims to improve the energy efficiency of buildings and reduce the need for heating in winter and cooling in summer. This has a positive impact on your energy bill, but also on the environment. In some cases, you can get subsidies or green loans for these environmentally friendly investments.’

4. Know how to maintain it

The amount of maintenance you are prepared to do should factor into your choice of material, as each type has its own needs. For example, composite and uPVC only require washing down to remove dirt.

Timber cladding is one of the more demanding materials; however, this
is rewarded by its rich texture and natural beauty. ‘After approximately a year of outdoor exposure, timber cladding will begin to attain silvery-grey tones. This can be offset with treatment,’ says Lisa Grosse from Cedral UK. ‘If you’re keen on retaining your cladding’s original colour, then a semi-transparent stain will drastically slow down the greying process while providing some weatherproofing. On average, timber cladding needs to be treated with exterior paint and finishes every five years.’

5. Ensure your cladding is weatherproof

When cladding your home's exterior, it must be waterproof – otherwise, it could lead to damp problems. All types of cladding material will have water-resistant properties; however, whichever type you use, all parts of the façade will need to be weatherproofed. You can do this by fitting a breathable membrane behind the cladding and making sure all joints are properly sealed with a waterproof sealant.

FAQs

Is external cladding a good idea?

Cladding your home's exterior is a good idea as it not only improves the aesthetics of your home but also improves your home's kerb appeal. 'Cladding can offer considerable benefits that will add even more value to your home – particularly important if you’re thinking about re-mortgaging or selling,' adds Lisa Grosse of Cedral UK.

Cladding your home's exterior is also a great energy-saving tip for the home.

What is the best exterior cladding for a house?

Fibre cement cladding is one of the most popular options. 'It does not rot, rust, warp or crack, it has excellent fire classification, uses fewer raw materials and less energy and generates less waste than some traditional building materials,' says Lisa Grosse of Cedral UK.

However, for more traditional homes, you can't beat the rustic appeal of traditional timber – even if it does require more work.