Early autumn gives us the green light to plant spring bulbs like daffodils and crocuses – but can you plant tulip bulbs in September?

Well, the rules for tulips are slightly different. The best time to plant tulip bulbs is generally mid- to late autumn, after the weather cools down. Since we’re on the climbdown from a summer of heatwaves, the ground is still far too warm – and planting too early can have serious drawbacks for your bulbs.

Wondering why September is too early to plant tulip bulbs? I spoke to the experts to find out.

So, can you plant tulip bulbs in September? Although it's the ideal time to starting planting other spring bulbs, we’re a little ahead of the ideal planting window for tulips. As a general rule, it’s best to wait until at least the middle of autumn.

‘Tulips are generally best planted in mid- to late autumn, once temperatures have cooled but while the soil is still workable,’ says Paul Parker from plants and bulbs specialist J. Parker’s.

‘So, during mild Septembers, it may not be the optimum conditions for planting tulips.’

This September is especially mild, since we’re winding down from a very hot summer – so it’s even more important that you hold off planting this month.

‘Planting later can help avoid some of the problems associated with warm, damp conditions and gives bulbs the cool period they need for strong spring growth,’ explains Paul.

Most notably, there’s the risk of tulip fire disease. It’s most commonly associated with planting your tulip bulbs too early.

‘The disease can cause distorted leaves and brown spotting, and spreads particularly readily in damp, humid conditions,’ warns Paul. ‘To reduce the risk of this, it’s best to hold out until the temperature drops in mid-autumn before planting tulips.’

Planting your tulip bulbs at the right depth will also determine how well your bulbs perform.

‘In most of the UK, September is probably a bit on the early side to plant tulips,’ agrees Topher Martyn, head gardener at Syon Park. ‘It is, however, the perfect time to look through catalogues or to visit your garden centre and decide what you want to grow.’

There are plenty of bulbs you can order in September for pretty pink spring blooms in 2027, and a spectrum of other colours to suit any other garden planting scheme you have in mind, too. I’ve got my eye on ‘Tulip ‘Dreamer’, which you can order from Thompson & Morgan.

Storage is key – if you’re ordering your tulip bulbs now, you’ll need to make sure they’re sitting comfortably until it’s time to plant them.

‘If you've bought your bulbs early, don't leave them in their packaging for months,’ advises Ross Dyke, horticulturist, founder of Get Children Growing, and host of The Plant Pod. ‘Keep them somewhere cool and dry and plant them when appropriate.’

Bulb planting essentials

For when you *can* plant your tulip bulbs!

Hold off on planting your tulip bulbs until mid-autumn at the very earliest if you want successful spring displays.

Can my neighbour build a shed against my fence? You wouldn’t be the first to ask – but the answer isn’t exactly straightforward.

Sheds can quickly become garden features that cause neighbour disputes, especially when they sit close to your garden’s boundary. Even if it's close to your side, a shed that sits within the bounds of your neighbour’s own garden is generally considered acceptable by law – but there are a few exceptions, as well as height rules they’ll need to follow.

Below, I’ve explored whether or not your neighbour can build a shed against your fence – and the three rules they’ll need to follow if they’re building it within two metres of your garden’s boundary.

So, can a neighbour build a shed against your fence? It might feel as though it’s infringing on your space, but the position itself isn’t classed as an offence. It’s all down to its height, roof design, and whether or not your area is listed or protected.

‘Permitted development rights under Class E of the Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (England) let homeowners put up garden outbuildings without planning permission, provided they stay within specific permitted development criteria,’ says Andrew Boast, property expert at SAM Conveyancing. ‘So legally, your neighbour doesn’t need to ask your permission or even tell you before they build right up to the boundary line.’

Andrew notes that there are exceptions, though – and if either your property or your neighbour’s property meets certain criteria, they’ll need formal planning permission first.

‘If either property is listed or is in a conservation area, national park or Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), those automatic rights disappear, in which case different planning rules can apply, and formal permission becomes mandatory regardless of how small the shed is,’ Andrew explains.

If your neighbour is planning to build their shed within two metres of your fence or garden boundary, they’ll need to follow a few extra rules (even under permitted development).

1. Height

There are rules around how high a garden fence can be, and the same applies to a shed that sits close to your fence.

'In England, if an outbuilding is within two metres of the boundary, it will generally need to be no more than 2.5 metres high if the owner wants to rely on permitted development rights,' says Sarah Dodd, founder and CEO of Tree Law.

That’s why it’s best to go for a shed that's under 2.5 metres tall, like this Mercia Woodsman Shiplap 8x4 ft Pent Shed from B&Q. If you notice that your neighbour is beginning to build a shed that’s too tall and within two metres of your fence, Andrew recommends taking dated photos from your side of the boundary and making a note of any measurements you can safely take.

‘That timeline matters a great deal if things escalate,’ he says. ‘Plus, it’s much easier to sort things out informally while the shed is still a frame than after the roof, guttering and finishing touches are all in place.’

As with any garden dispute, it’s best to speak to your neighbour before pursuing a legal path. Andrew says most people simply might not know the rules exist!

2. Roof design

Your neighbour’s shed roof design matters if it’s built within two metres of your fence, too. More specifically, it’s about the way it manages rainfall.

‘The neighbour must manage rainwater on their own land,’ says Andrew. ‘Heavy rain running off an angled shed roof directly onto your land can saturate the soil, rotting your fence posts and potentially affecting the structural integrity of your garden walls or patios.’

Andrew says rainwater runoff onto your property from a poorly designed shed can be considered a civil nuisance, and so can the fence wood rot that can result from a solid structure sitting flush against a fence (if the rainwater becomes trapped in the tiny gap between the two).

They’ll also need to make sure that no part of the shed and its fixings cross over into your garden.

‘Your boundary is treated by UK property law as a vertical plane extending straight up into the sky,’ explains Andrew. ‘Even if the base of a neighbour’s shed is on their land, their roof eaves, guttering or decorative trims cannot cross over that boundary. If they do, it constitutes a civil trespass.’

Boundary rules like these are why you can’t prune your neighbour’s tree on their side of the fence (or keep the clippings from your side of the fence without their permission!).

3. Light

A neighbour’s tree blocking your sunlight is one thing, but what happens if an encroaching shed starts shadowing your space?

‘While a shed under 2.5 metres rarely breaches formal ‘Right to Light’ rules, if it blocks light to a window in a habitable room that has enjoyed uninterrupted light for over 20 years, a prescription claim can arise under civil law,’ says Andrew.

If your neighbour breaks any of these rules and a polite, informal chat with them doesn’t change anything, Andrew says you can report it to your council’s planning enforcement team for free.

‘They can investigate and, where appropriate, issue an enforcement notice requiring the work to be altered or removed, although this can take around eight to twelve weeks,’ Andrew explains.

‘For civil issues, such as guttering crossing the boundary, water damage, or a long-standing right to light, you’ll likely need a solicitor. This can take six to twelve months and cost around £1,500 to £10,000 or more if the matter reaches the stage of a court injunction.

‘Whatever happens, don’t take matters into your own hands by cutting, damaging or painting your neighbour’s shed. Even if it is encroaching onto your land, that could leave you facing a criminal damage claim instead.’

Where to buy sheds

If your neighbour builds a shed within 2.5 metres of your fence and it breaks any of the above rules, it's worth having a friendly chat with them first.

With summer coming to an end, there are plenty of jobs to be getting on with in the garden right now. And one task worth tackling before it gets too cold is overcrowded beds and borders.

Separating congested plants will help to rejuvenate older plants, free up growing space and give you new plants that can be replanted elsewhere, so knowing which clump-forming perennials will benefit from dividing in September and how best to do it is key.

‘It’s always best to separate plants in early September to give them time to establish before any hard frost hits,’ says Craig Wilson, co-founder and gardening expert at Gardeners Dream. ‘There are a few signs to watch out for that mean your perennials will need to be separated. For instance, if the plant is growing fewer or smaller blooms, beginning to look overcrowded, or the plant is looking bare from the middle, then you need to think about dividing perennials like these now.’

Find out which perennials will benefit from being divided below.

1. Daylilies

‘Daylilies are prone to becoming congested, which results in reduced flowering, so they will benefit from dividing in September,’ says David Denyer, flower and garden expert at eflorist. ‘To divide, lift the clump carefully and separate the individual fans by hand or with a sharp knife. Make sure that each division has a good section of roots attached. Replant as soon as possible and keep the soil moist while the plants establish.’

‘Rather than dividing everything on a set schedule, I’d first assess how the plant is performing,’ says Matt J Adams, founder and lead gardener at The Relentless Gardener. ‘If it is healthy and flowering well, there is usually no need to disturb it and sacrifice late-season colour when the plant can be divided once flowering has finished.

‘But for clumps that are becoming overcrowded or losing vigour, September can provide a good opportunity to lift, divide and re-establish them before winter.’

Where to buy daylilies:

• Gardeners Dream: Enjoy the bold orange tones of these Hemerocallis 'Orange' daylilies, £16.78.
• Primrose: Or go for these dramatic purple Hemerocallis Olive Bailey Langdon Daylily, £16.80.

2. Hostas

‘Hostas form dense root clumps that can be divided every four to five years when overcrowded,’ says Chris Bonnet, founder of Gardening Express. ‘Once separated, replant them in partial shade.’

‘Hostas are easy to divide once their foliage starts to die back,’ advises David. ‘Don’t be afraid to dig up the entire clump and use a sharp spade or knife to separate it into smaller sections. Try to make sure each division has a healthy portion of roots and several shoots, then replant at the same depth as before and water thoroughly.’

‘When dividing perennials, it’s best to water plants thoroughly before lifting them, ideally the day before,’ suggests Matt. ‘This makes the soil easier to work and reduces the amount of stress placed on the plant. And have everything ready before you start – a garden fork, sharp spade or clean knife, gloves and somewhere prepared to replant the divisions.’

‘Dig around the outside of the clump with a fork, keeping slightly further away from the crown than you think you need to. Work around the plant and gently lever it from the ground rather than pulling hard on the stems.’

‘Once it is lifted, remove some of the loose soil so you can see how the roots and shoots are arranged. This is important because you want every new section to have a healthy piece of crown and a good amount of roots.’

Where to buy hostas:

• Thompson & Morgan: Try this assorted Hosta Collection, from £9.99.
• Gardeners Dream: Stunning with its variegated leaves, try this Hosta 'Wide Brim, £9.58.

Shop these useful garden tools

3. Cone flowers

‘Coneflowers (or echinacea) benefit from being divided when mature clumps become crowded or lose vigour,' advises Chris. 'Lift and split the roots gently, then replant promptly in a sunny garden border and well-drained soil.'

‘How you split a clump depends on the plant,’ says Matt. ‘Smaller, fibrous-rooted clumps can often be teased apart by hand, whereas a large, established clump may need two garden forks placed back-to-back and used as levers. For particularly tough rootballs, a sharp spade or knife will make a much cleaner cut.’

‘Don’t be afraid of making a decisive cut – repeatedly hacking at a rootball can cause more damage than one clean division. I also wouldn’t try to make dozens of tiny plants. Larger, healthy divisions with several shoots and a strong root system will generally establish much more quickly than very small pieces,' adds Matt. 'If the centre of an old clump has become woody, weak or dead, discard that section and concentrate on the vigorous outer portions.’

Where to buy coneflowers:

• Crocus: Go for the hot orange tones of this Echinacea 'Flame Thrower', £12.79.
• Gardening Express: Or go pink with this Echinacea purpurea Magnus - Compact Purple Cone Flower, £12.99.

4. Shasta daisies

‘Shasta daisies can become congested after a few years, so divide them every two to three years to encourage growth, better flowering and gain extra perennial plants for free,' says Chris.

‘Replanting is just as important as dividing,’ advises Matt. ‘Try to replant the divisions as quickly as possible so that the roots don’t have an opportunity to dry out. Prepare the new planting hole first, making it wide enough to accommodate the roots naturally rather than forcing them into a small space. To help the roots re-establish, it’s always best to add some bonemeal to the hole as well to strengthen roots for better chances of survival during spring and summer.'

'Plant each division at roughly the same depth as it was growing originally,’ adds Matt. 'The crown should not be buried deeply, as this can lead to rotting and poor growth. Firm the soil gently around the roots and then give the plant a thorough watering.’

Where to buy shasta daisies:

• J. Parker's: Enjoy masses of blooms with these Leucanthemum x superbum 'Silver Princess', from £7.99.
• Thompson & Morgan: Or go for this frilly petalled variety Leucanthemum 'Crazy Daisy', from £7.99.

5. Asters

‘Asters can become overcrowded over time, so divide established clumps every few years to help them grow well,’ suggests Chris. ‘September is a good time to separate and replant the healthiest sections.’

‘Good aftercare is just as important as the division itself,’ advises Matt. ‘Keep newly planted sections consistently moist during dry spells while they establish, and once they are settled, give them the nutrients they need to support healthy roots, shoots and flowering. A liquid feed can be an easy way to maintain plants through the growing season without overcomplicating your feeding routine.’

‘For flowering plants, I use Blooms Booster All-Purpose Liquid Plant Feed with Seaweed, from £9.50, from The Relentless Gardener, as part of that approach. It is formulated with higher potassium to support flower growth while keeping nitrogen lower to avoid putting too much emphasis on foliage. It also contains 20% liquid seaweed and can be applied every three to four weeks, making it a simple option for keeping flowering plants fed through the season.'

‘A light mulch of well-rotted garden compost around, but not directly against, the crown can also help retain moisture and improve the soil.’

Where to buy asters:

• Amazon: Enjoy a variety of colourful plants with this Aster Perennial set, £19.99.
• Primrose: Super-pretty, try this Aster × Frikartii Mönch | Michaelmas Daisy, £4.49.

6. Black-eyed susans

‘Black-eyed Susans are vigorous spreaders and may need dividing every three to four years to prevent overcrowding,’ says Chris. ‘Split established clumps and replant with plenty of space in flower beds to thrive.’

‘Black-eyed Susans (or rudbeckias) will need dividing every few years,’ advises David. ‘When lifting, be sure to keep as much of the root system intact as possible before separating into smaller sections. Have some well-prepared soil ready to replant them in and water them thoroughly to encourage strong root development.’

Where to buy black-eyed susans:

• B&Q: Go for these sunny yellow Rudbeckia Goldsturm - Black-eyed Susan x 3, £25.99.
• Gardeners Dream: Or try this bold alternative Rudbeckia 'Little Goldstar', from £7.68 for a 9cm pot.

7. Hardy geraniums

‘Hardy geraniums can quickly form large clumps, so dig around the plant and lift it from the soil so you can gently tease the roots apart,’ advises David. ‘Sometimes the root ball can be dense, if so, use a sharp spade to divide it into manageable sections.’

‘When dividing plants, choose a cool, cloudy day if possible and avoid dividing during particularly hot or dry weather,’ says Matt. ‘Don’t work on soil that is waterlogged either. If September is exceptionally wet, it’s better to wait until conditions improve or postpone the job until spring.’

‘It’s also worth remembering that not every perennial wants to be divided at the same time. Summer-flowering herbaceous perennials, like salvias, are often good candidates for autumn division, while some spring-flowering plants are better divided after flowering. And if something is still looking fantastic in September, there is no need to disturb it simply because the calendar says so,’ adds Matt.

‘Done at the right time, division is one of the simplest ways to give an ageing perennial a new lease of life. You get a healthier, more vigorous plant, prevent overcrowding and potentially turn one established clump into several – all without spending another penny - so a great budget garden idea.’

Where to buy hardy geraniums:

• Gardening Express: Fill your borders with these easy to grow Geranium Rozanne - 'Jolly Bee' Hardy Geranium, from £6.97.
• Thompson & Morgan: Or enjoy a variety of different plants with this Geranium Hardy Mix, from £14.99.

8. Bearded irises

‘Bearded irises benefit a lot from regular division as their rhizomes become congested,’ says David. ‘To do this, carefully lift the plant and separate healthy rhizomes, you can discard any damaged or diseased sections. Replant the healthy pieces so that the rhizomes sit close to the soil surface rather than being buried deeply.’

'When dividing any plant, always use a clean, sharp spade or knife to make clean cuts and don’t make divisions too small. Larger, healthy sections will generally establish more quickly and give you a stronger plant the following year,’ adds David.

Where to buy bearded iris:

• Crocus: In pink and purple tones that look super-pretty, try this Iris 'Burgermeister' bearded iris, from £7.99.
• Suttons: Or go for the deep burgundy colour of this Iris 'Pass the Wine' (Re-Blooming) bearded iris, from £9.99.

So now is the time to think about dividing congested perennials to keep them healthy and gain new plants in the process.

As slow-growing evergreen shrubs, hebes don't need lots of pruning. However, an annual tidy-up can extend their life and result in more abundant blooms. Pruning can also breathe new life into an old hebe; a useful tool in your gardening arsenal.

Pruning hebes is best done in late summer – in fact, it's one of the plants to prune in August. However, it is best to wait until the flowers have faded before taking your secateurs to your hebe.

'A light prune of the whole hebe in late summer will gently hold its shape together. Annual pruning is not essential as they are slow-growing plants and tend to maintain their dome-like appearance naturally, but this can vary depending on which hebe you are choosing to grow,' says Cal Stewart, head gardener for the National Trust's Gibside.

1. Deadhead throughout the flowering season

As flowering shrubs, hebes can flower from late spring to early autumn depending on the variety and climate. Deadheading spent flowers keeps the plant tidy and encourages more blooms, rather than the plant redirecting its energy into setting seed.

Deadheading differs from pruning and simply involves snipping off the dead flowerheads. A pair of garden snips like these Kent & Stowe Garden Life Snips from B&Q are perfect for the job.

Before you start deadheading your hebe – make sure you know these deadheading mistakes to avoid.

2. Prune hebes in late summer

As one of the best low-growing evergreen shrubs, your hebe doesn't need a rigorous prune every year; however, a light trim can help maintain a clean dome shape. The best month to prune varies from hebe to hebe, but pruning hebes is generally regarded as one of the jobs to do in the garden in August.

'Hebes are naturally nice and round, needing pruning rarely. However, if you think it needs a bit of a tidy, lightly prune the outside to reform its shape with shears,' says Paul Parker, managing director at J. Parkers.

Avoid hard pruning and cutting into old wood, as this is less likely to grow back. If you have fallen victim to this or want to add more hebes to your garden, then this hebes collection from Gardening Express offers a vibrant selection of plants to brighten your garden.

Secateurs are needed for this job – Wolf-Garten RR4000 Bypass Secateurs, available on Amazon, are rated among the best secateurs of 2026.

3. Prune hebes in spring

If you miss the opportunity to prune in late summer, then you can prune in spring instead. 'Pruning hebes in April will also help prevent overcrowding and allow good air circulation throughout the plant,' says Steve Swanborough, gardening expert at Henchman. 'Generally, we recommend removing about a third of old growth for best results.'

Even if you pruned your hebe in August, take a moment to remove any dead and damaged branches that did not survive the winter.

If pruning in spring, make sure the last frost has passed – this is one of the most common pruning mistakes. You should never prune a hebe in midwinter, as this will make the plant more vulnerable to a sharp frost – potentially killing the plant.

'Although general advice is not to hard prune hebes, if you are going to replace it anyway, it can be worth trying to see if it regrows. The best time to rejuvenate a hebe is in March, just before new buds begin to form,' adds an expert from Hayloft. 'Cut back to a node about 30cm above the soil.'

Wondering whether you can plant allium bulbs in September? Preparations for spring start sooner than you'd expect;

The best time to plant allium bulbs can be tricky to pin down, because the timings vary between spring flowers. According to experts, though, the ideal planting window is wider than you’d think – and there’s never been a better time to start shopping for bulbs.

So, can you plant allium bulbs in September? Here’s what you need to know.

What you'll need

The best time to plant bulbs for spring very much depends on the flower. Some, like daffodils, can be planted as soon as September arrives – but others, like tulips, are best kept away until November.

Can you plant alliums in September, though? I’ve been wondering it myself, and as it turns out, we do have the green light for getting the bulbs in the ground this month.

‘For anyone wanting a head start on next year’s colour, this is when planting your spring bulbs should be high on the list,’ says B&Q’s horticulture expert, Mark Sage. ‘Prioritise daffodils, crocuses and alliums which can be planted now.’

I’ve had my eye on this award-winning allium collection from Crocus, which includes five different varieties with stunning architectural flower heads.

It’s actually a brilliant time to plant allium bulbs, since they benefit from a head start before winter arrives.

‘September is the perfect month to plant allium bulbs,’ says Charlotte Daubney, bulb expert at Taylors Bulbs. ‘Planting between September and November allows the soil to cool below 15 degrees, giving the bulbs plenty of time to establish good roots before the first frosts arrive.'

You can also plant alliums in pots this month, especially if you choose compact varieties like the white-bloomed Allium amplectens 'Graceful Beauty' (the bulbs are available to order from Thompson & Morgan). It only grows up to 30cm tall, so it;s perfectly suited to container life.

If you want them to reach their full flowering potential, you'll need to know how deep to plant your allium bulbs. You can buy bulb planters like this Kent & Stowe Hand Bulb Planter from Amazon, which includes a measurement scale on the side.

As Mark mentioned, you can plant daffodil bulbs in September, too – and if effortless displays are your kind of thing, there are plenty of low-maintenance daffodil varieties to choose from, like Narcissus 'February Gold' from Thompson & Morgan.

So, you can plant alliums in September. Time to start browsing for bulbs!

Homeowners should be on the lookout for tipsy wasps this month, pest experts have warned.

You may think that getting rid of wasps is solely a summer issue. However, late summer and early September are a prime time for ‘tipsy wasps’; intoxicated worker wasps that have essentially got drunk on fermented fruit that has dropped from trees.

Like a lot of drunks, tipsy wasps can sometimes be more aggressive than usual. So, I asked experts for ways to deter wasps, as well as what causes the tipsy wasp phenomenon in the first place. This is what they said.

What are tipsy wasps?

At the end of summer, a wasp’s colony dies down, and worker wasps start looking for food. Often this is fermented fruit that has started dropping from the best fruit trees, and it is this fruit that makes the wasps ‘tipsy’.

‘You can encounter ‘tipsy’ wasps during late summer and into early autumn. This is partly because, by this point in the season, the queen has stopped laying eggs, meaning there are fewer larvae for worker wasps to feed,’ explains Daniel Steward, managing director at Shield Pest Control.

'Normally, the larvae produce a sugary substance that the workers feed on, so when there are fewer larvae, the workers have to seek out other sources of sugar

‘At this time of year, there is also plenty of fallen fruit, such as apples and pears, left on the ground to ripen and rot. The sugars in this fruit can ferment and produce alcohol. Worker wasps, with their increased appetite for sugar, may feed on this fermented fruit and can appear intoxicated, sometimes flying erratically or seeming disoriented.’

This is also why you are more likely to have wasps buzzing around you in pub gardens, outside cafe seating and picnics, as worker wasps search for sugary food

Do tipsy wasps sting more?

While wasps during this time of year may be a little more aggressive than usual as they seek food, they are not out with the intention to sting you. The alcohol makes their behaviour more erratic, but this doesn't necessarily mean they are more likely to sting you unprovoked.

‘Wasps don't generally go looking for people to sting. They sting when they feel threatened or when they're defending their nest,’ explains Natalie Bungay, head of technical at British Pest Control Association.

‘However, at this time of year they're spending much more time searching for sugary food, which brings them into closer contact with people. That means there are simply more opportunities for an unpleasant encounter. So rather than thinking of late-summer wasps as suddenly becoming aggressive, it's better to remember that they're hungry, persistent and much more likely to be sharing your lunch.’

One thing Natalie says is important to remember is that you should avoid swatting wasps that come near you.

‘Sudden movements can make it feel threatened. Move away calmly and give it space,’ she says.

‘Keep sweet food and drinks covered when you're outside, and be particularly careful with cans and bottles as a wasp can crawl inside without you noticing. Clearing away fallen or rotting fruit from areas where people spend time can also help.

‘If you find a nest, don't disturb it. A nest in a quiet location can often simply be left alone, but if it's somewhere people regularly pass, seek advice from a professional pest controller.

‘Most wasp stings are painful rather than dangerous, but some people can have a severe allergic reaction. If you suspect anaphylaxis, call 999 immediately.’

Get rid of wasps

If you are concerned about wasps in your home or garden, you should contact a pest control experts (that is British Pest Control Association (BCPA) approved) for help and avice.

Sprinkling cinnamon on your lawn sounds, on paper, like a recipe for disaster – albeit a recipe that, at the very least, will mean your garden has that same spicy scent that comes hand-in-hand with a chai latte.

Here's the thing, though: if your grass has started looking a little worse for wear, it could be one of those quirky lawn care hacks that's well worth trying. Cinnamon, after all, contains natural antifungal and antimicrobial compounds, which means it may have a role to play when you're dealing with certain lawn diseases or trying to protect newly sown grass.

Could a light dusting be what you need, then, to give your grass a helping hand? As ever, there is a right way and a wrong way to go about it...

How sprinkling cinnamon on your lawn can make it healthier

According to Morris Hankinson, Managing Director of Hopes Grove Nurseries, cinnamon's natural properties mean it could be useful when dealing with fungal problems.

'Cinnamon contains natural anti-fungal compounds which can help suppress some fungal growth in the garden and could be useful when dealing with patches of lawn affected by diseases,' he says.

For anyone who spots a suspicious patch of grass, Morris says a dash of cinnamon could be well worth experimenting with. And he really does mean a dash; the trick is, rather than heavily coating the lawn, just applying a very light dusting directly to affected areas.

Matt J Adams, founder and lead gardener at The Relentless Gardener, agrees that cinnamon can have a useful role in lawn care; indeed, if you have noticed ants or other unwanted insects gathering in a particular area, he recommends combining cinnamon with compost before applying it to the affected patch.

What you will need

'If you're dealing with an area of lawn affected by ants or other insects, try mixing 1 to 5 tablespoons of cinnamon with 5 litres of compost (we recommend Westland's John Innes blend, £10.99 at Amazon) and sprinkling the mixture over the affected area,' he says. 'Coffee can also work well as a natural option for helping to discourage unwanted insects.'

The same approach can also be used when you're repairing bare patches or overseeding an existing lawn. 'Once you've spread your grass seed (GrowPure grass seed, £12.99 at Amazon is a great choice), mix 1–2 tablespoons of cinnamon with compost and spread it over the seeded area,' says Matt. 'This can help protect young seedlings as they begin to establish.'

Basically, while cinnamon is a great addition to your lawn care arsenal, it shouldn't replace the basics. Regular mowing helps keep grass at a suitable height, while aeration can improve drainage and allow air and water to reach the roots. Scarification removes built-up thatch and moss, and feeding the lawn appropriately encourages strong and healthy growth.

'Put these measures together, and you'll have a denser, stronger lawn that's better able to withstand common problems,' says Matt. 'Cinnamon can be a useful addition in certain situations, but it's the overall care and condition of your lawn that makes the biggest difference.'

'A dusting of cinnamon might give your lawn a fighting chance if it is diseased, so it's worth a try!' adds Morris.

FAQs

Better get sprinkling then, we guess! Just don't expect the spice rack to do all the work for you...

Our gardens might be winding down for the year, but there's never been a better time to squeeze even more potential out of it – and you can do that by collecting seeds from your plants in September.

Learning how to collect seeds is one of the most valuable gardening skills you can learn, because it means you can sow more plants for free next year. It’s also a really straightforward process – and many annuals and perennials will offer seed up freely at this time of the year.

Here’s a list of plants to collect seeds from in September to give you some budget-friendly gardening inspiration.

What you'll need

1. Alliums

Once ornamental allium flowerheads have gone brown and dry, you can start collecting seed from them – and September is the perfect time to get started.

‘Leave alliums standing in the border for as long as possible to enjoy their attractive seed heads but make sure you harvest the seed before it is shed naturally,’ advises Annelise Brilli, Thompson & Morgan’s horticultural expert.

‘Cut the heads, tip them upside down over a paper bag and shake to release the seed.’

These paper seed envelopes from Amazon are ideal, because there’s space to write key information like the variety and the date they were collected. You can start sowing allium seeds in autumn (for overwintering) or spring, or plant allium bulbs in September for a head start.

2. Poppies

September is a brilliant time to collect seeds from poppies, too. You’ll know they’re ready when the seed pods have turned a dry, light brown, and you can often hear the seeds rattling around inside when you shake them.

‘Although the hot, dry weather has made collecting perfectly dry seed a breeze, prolonged drought can also reduce both seed quantity and quality, so choose seed from the healthiest, most vigorous plants,’ notes Annelise.

‘Save the little silica gel sachets that come with packaging and place them in an airtight container alongside your paper seed envelopes to help keep the seeds dry.’

You can even buy seed boxes like this Unwins Gardeners’ Seed Storage Box from Debenhams.

3. Peas

You can also collect seeds from vegetable plants like peas in September – and after the hot summer we’ve just had, there’s a good chance that most of the pods will be ready.

My peas bolted months ago thanks to the heatwaves, but if you’ve still got a few pods left on your plants and they’ve gone dry and brittle, you can save the hardened peas inside.

‘Don’t wait until every pod is dry,’ says Helen Hutchings-Cox (@helenlikesplants), allotmenteer and GARDENA Top of the Plots Judge. ‘Once most of the pods have dried and the seeds are hard and rattling, pick them and finish drying them indoors if necessary. This reduces the risk of pods splitting and losing seed.’

4. Runner beans

Runner beans should be ready for seed collection this September, too, and the process is very similar to harvesting seed from peas.

‘Make sure the pods are fully dry before harvesting,’ says Helen. ‘If there’s still any softness or moisture in the pod or seed, give them more time to dry somewhere warm and airy. This helps prevent mould in storage.’

You can order silica gel packets from Amazon to place next to your seed envelopes if you don’t have any spares lying around.

5. Verbena

Verbena is a must if you're looking to collect seeds from perennials in September. Annelise told me that Verbena bonariensis is the species that grows best from collected seed – it’s the taller version that generally adds height to garden borders.

‘Prepare for another hot, dry summer by collecting seed from drought-tolerant favourites such as Verbena bonariensis,’ says Annelise.

‘While seed collected from named ornamental cultivars may not come true to type, seed collected from species such as this will.’

6. Ornamental grasses

You can also collect seeds from various types of ornamental grass in September to multiply your collections. Plants like maiden grass are the textural powerhouses of pots and borders, so you’ll get plenty of bang for your buck.

‘Keep an eye on grasses such as Miscanthus, Stipa and Calamagrostis as their flowerheads mature through late summer and autumn,’ says Annelise.

‘Cut well-developed heads just before the seed is fully ripe and place them in a paper bag indoors to finish ripening. Once dry, shake out the seed and store it in labelled paper packets.’

You can buy a pack of 200 paper bags for £4.99 from Amazon.

Those are just a few examples of plants you can collect seeds from in September. It's a small task for a big (and free) reward!

If your neighbour has a fruit tree and has neglected to pick up their dropped fruit, you may have noticed an increase in wasps attracted to your garden as the dropped fruit ferments and rots. So, I asked experts: Who is legally responsible for removing fallen fruit if it attracts wasps to a garden?

If your neighbour is not picking up their fruit tree windfall, it can feel very frustrating - especially if this dropped fruit is attracting pests. Because of this, it’s important to get clued up on the legal side of this dispute, so you can solve the issue and ideally maintain a good neighbourly relationship.

Whether your neighbour’s fruit is falling into your garden or theirs, this is what experts say you should do if their harvest is attracting wasps to your garden.

Who is legally responsible for removing fallen fruit if it attracts wasps to a garden?

If the fruit tree is within the boundaries of your neighbour's garden, the fruit that drops from it belongs to them. That remains true if the fruit drops into your garden. So, ultimately, if dropped fruit is attracting wasps to your garden, it is your neighbour’s responsibility to deal with it.

‘The first thing to do is to talk to your neighbours and see if a sensible resolution can be agreed to reduce and/or stop the wasps becoming pests. If they have no appetite to do anything then you can take action to remove branches that are traversing the boundary, in order to reduce the amounts of wasps on your side,’ explains Jagdeep Sandher, partner and head of civil litigation at Blythe Liggins Solicitors.

‘Your neighbours do not technically need to do anything with any windfall on their side of the boundary unless their refusal is causing vermin to come into your garden, in which case it is possible this may be deemed a nuisance.’

When it comes to any garden feature that may cause a neighbour dispute, the most important thing you can do is open a conversation with your neighbour first. Politely ask if they mind removing the fruit to reduce the number of wasps. If they refuse, as Jagdeep says, you can remove the fruit and cut back overhanging plants on your side of the boundary. However, you must never cross your boundary or damage your neighbour's tree.

‘You are perfectly within your rights to ask [your neighbour to remove fallen fruit] and to do so in writing. However, if your neighbour refuses, your legal options are limited unless the problem rises to the level of a statutory nuisance under the Environmental Protection Act 1990,’ adds Mosh Latifi, pest expert and co-owner of EcoCare Pest Management.

‘In the meantime, you can remove fruit that has fallen onto your side of the boundary yourself, place a wasp trap at the far end of your garden to draw wasps away from the problem area, and use deterrent sprays around play areas and patios while the situation is resolved.

‘If the wasp activity is severe enough to constitute a nuisance affecting your enjoyment of the property, your local council's environmental health team may be able to advise, though their powers in this area are limited.’

Deter wasps from your garden

If fallen fruit is attracted wasps to your garden, the first step is to apporach your neighbour and ask them to remove it. When it comes to wasps, most will not want to encourage them to a garden.

If your grass is in need of a regular cut and you simply don't have the time for it, then listen up: the LawnMaster OcuMow 16 Vision Robot Lawnmower (RRP £299 at Amazon) is perfect for lawns up to 150m² in size, and it'll do the job for you.

Over the years I have tested several robotic mowers and, so far, this has got to be the best robot lawn mower of all of them – especially if you’re on a budget and are looking for something really easy to use with literally zero set up. It's battery-powered and has a handle, making it more portable than others on the market.

Here’s what I thought of the LawnMaster OcuMow 16 Vision Robot Lawnmower when I reviewed it on my 150m² lawn for two weeks.

In a nutshell

The LawnMaster OcuMow 16 Vision Robot Lawnmower is the easiest robotic mower I've tested. It also happens to be the most affordable, without too many compromises. I found that it cut the grass well, manoeuvring around kids' toys and planting without getting stuck like some other, smarter robot mowers.

It's ready to go straight out of the box – after inserting the battery, you just need to press a series of three buttons, and within 20 seconds you're mowing. It has a runtime of up to four hours and will stop when it runs out of juice, or you hit the "STOP" button.

Downsides? It doesn't get close to flower borders or patio edges, leaving a 15cm gap that a grass strimmer will need to tackle at some point. It also doesn't connect to an app, so there's no lawn mapping, little customisation and no scheduling ability.

That said, if you prefer a straightforward set-up with no boundary wire, and a camera and sensor operation for an impressive cut, this robot mower needs to be at the top of your wish list.

Specifications

• Max. lawn size: 150m²
• Cutting height range: 20 - 60 mm
• Cutting width: 16cm
• Dimensions: 30H x 25W x 35D cm
• Weight: 6.6kg (with battery)
• Noise level: 58dB
• Warranty: 2 years

Unboxing

I could tell set up was going to be easy: the Lawnmaster OcuMow 16 MX 24V VBRM16 was delivered in a surprisingly small box that could be easily lifted and positioned into a space ready for set up. It was barely larger than the mower itself because this model doesn't come with a charging station (it's battery-powered).

Inside the box, there was minimal packaging, with just a few pieces of cardboard securing the mower in place, a small cardboard box containing the battery with charger and a tiny paper bag containing spare blades. I find this refreshing because using minimal packaging is better for the environment, and cardboard is recyclable with household waste.

Setting up

Setting up the Lawnmaster OcuMow 16 MX 24V VBRM16 is easy. In fact, it's the easiest robotic mower I've ever set up.

Whilst the removable battery arrives with some power, the xx guide advises fully charging it – so that's what I did. The battery slots into the charger and you can check the progress with the red, orange and green lights. It took fewer than 15 minutes for the battery to be ready for its first performance test.

Then, I inserted the battery into the rear of the robot mower. There's a flap that can be easily lifted, and the battery slides in over the grips inside. Next to the battery is an isolator key that needs to be inserted for the mower to start, so I checked that too.

Before starting up the mower, I had a look around the garden to make sure no stones were in the lawn, and it was as clear as possible from any obstacles. I also made sure that the flower borders were clearly defined, as advised by the instruction manual.

Back at the mower, I adjusted the cutting height (there's a range of 20-60mm, which rivals many of the best lawn mowers on the market) using a dial to opt for 30mm. This was the only setting that could be customised, so it was time to mow.

To start, I held down the START/ON buttons for 3 seconds. The battery indicator, error indicator and ultrasonic indicator flashed consecutively whilst the camera system set up – this took 15 seconds. I then had the choice of the type of cut - Auto Mow or Spot Cutting – which both have their own separate buttons on the deck. After pressing one or the other for two seconds, I then pressed START/ON again to start mowing.

The mower will then cut the grass in a random crisscross pattern until either I press the STOP button or it runs out of power.

The LawnMaster OcuMow 16 Vision Robot Lawnmower doesn't connect to an app like other robot lawn mowers. On the one hand, this saved set-up time, but on the other, it therefore lacks the ability to operate the mower remotely or create a schedule so you don't need to get involved with it regularly. That said, this won't affect the cutting performance. Plus, no boundary wires could better suit gardeners who are looking for a fuss-free set-up without dependence on an app.

Performance

I tested the LawnMaster OcuMow 16 Vision Robot Lawnmower on my xx lawn. It's designed for medium/small gardens with lawns up to 150m², which is perfect considering that it doesn't take up much space – and it can be stowed away after use.

After pressing all the necessary buttons to start up, within 20 seconds the mower was cutting my lawn. On "Auto Mow", the OcuMow 16 mowed a random pattern, whereas on "Spot Cutting" it'll spiral spot cut for 30 seconds before continuing with a random pattern. The combination of cameras and sensors with Optical Grass Recognition OGR software identifies the grass, avoids obstacles and navigates around the garden.

I was dubious at first because, unlike other robot lawn mowers that map your lawn, the OcuMow 16 seemed to be cutting the grass uncontrollably randomly, and I was concerned that it would be creating a patchwork finish. I had also recently tested the WORX Landroid Vision Cloud WR306E 2WD Robotic Lawnmower (£899, Amazon UK), which has the option (in an app) to select one of five cutting patterns.

Within four hours, the majority of the grass was cut at the selected 30mm height, and it didn't look so random after all. I say "majority" because it left a 15cm margin of longer-length grass around our paved patio and next to our defined garden border. This means that, at some point, I'll need to reach for the strimmer somewhere in the shed so the job of grass cutting isn't totally taken care of – although it still is a huge help.

The grass around the four-legged swing frame and apple tree that are toward the middle of our lawn will also need some cutting back with the cordless strimmer because the OcuMow 16 manoeuvred itself around them and, therefore, didn't cut the grass. It also sometimes mounted a swing leg or bumped into it, and then quickly recovered itself.

It's worth noting that if you want defined, straight lines in your lawn, then this is beyond the OcuMow 16's capabilities. I think it's beyond most robotic lawn mowers' capabilities though, unless it's super smart and you can customise the cutting pattern. A push lawnmower would achieve this look by default, so, depending on the size of your garden, this may be something that you'll need to weigh up: time vs appearance.

I found that the OcuMow 16 will also back away from an area of 10cm tall grass, unless you trample it down and try "Spot Cutting", which was revealed when I moved the swing. The longer grass got caught up around the wheels and underneath the blades, which freed itself after continuing with Auto Mow thereafter, but this should be a consideration to factor in – especially if the borders are going to require some manual input.

In total, the OcuMow 16 went out into our garden four times to cut the grass, and each time it didn't get stuck on an uneven area or lawn or fall off the edge into the flower border.

It took the full charge of the battery, and a little top-up, to finish cutting our grass, which was considerably longer than the more expensive, smart robot lawn mowers I've recently tested, which take half that time. That said, if you're not in a hurry and are happy to "drop and mow" (as the brand says) then I'd say that's a reasonable adjustment to make.

As with other robot lawn mowers, there's no collection bag so grass clippings will be scattered in the freshly mowed path behind the OcuMow 16. By leaving grass clippings on your lawn, there are a number of benefits that your grass will now benefit from.

Design

The Lawnmaster OcuMow 16 MX 24V VBRM16 is the smallest and most compact robot lawn mower I've tested. It measures 30H x 25W x 35D cm, so takes up little space on the lawn whilst mowing, and little space in the shed when it's not in use. It doesn't come with a charging base, which means that there will be no evidence of a lawn mower left outside – it'll be in the shed.

To help carry, the design boasts a collapsible handle. It weighs only 6.6kg so it can be easily lifted to be positioned or stored, then the handle folds back down

On the top deck, where the handle is, are all the control buttons and dials. A big, red "STOP" button is the most noticeable, which is easy to press, even when the OcuMow 16 is in action. And the series of buttons that you need to get it started, including "On/Start", "Auto Mow" and "Spot Cutting" (depicted with a swirl), are all easy and responsive to press.

The battery compartment is at the rear, underside of the mower, beneath a flap. I found it easy to remove and re-secure the battery, before and after charging. There is no button to release, but you will hear a "click" when the battery is secured. In this same compartment is the isolator key, which needs to be secured for the mower to work, and removed to shut it down.

The battery is part of the LawnMaster MX 24V Shared Battery System, which means that every MX 24V 4.0Ah battery and charger is fully compatible with the LawnMaster MX 24V cordless range, including lawnmowers, hedge trimmers, grass trimmers, chainsaws and leaf blowers. If you already own a LawnMaster tool from the cordless range, then you could save £80 and buy the LawnMaster OcuMow 16 MX 24V VBRM16 without the battery from Cleva UK. Equally, if you're looking to buy more LawnMaster cordless tools, then you can use the battery included to save money further down the line.

Flip the OcuMow 16 over, and you'll see three blades in the middle and three wheels: one at the front, and two large wheels at the front.

Overall, the Lawnmaster OcuMow 16 MX 24V VBRM16 looks and feels like a robust machine that is easy to navigate.

Cleaning and maintenance

As with all gardening tools, some level of maintenance is required to keep it in tip-top condition and performing at its best. And the Lawnmaster OcuMow 16 MX 24V VBRM16 is no exception.

After each use, the battery will need to be charged so it's ready for when you next want to cut the grass. It takes 1 hour to charge the battery from flat. Furthermore, LawnMaster advise to remove the battery from the mower when storing the OcuMow 16, so if you're removing it to charge anyway, then all bases are covered.

It would also be good practice to remove any build-up of grass and leaves from around the mower, and to wipe the mower clean with a dry cloth. Just make sure that the isolator key and battery are removed before doing this.

Whilst cleaning the underside of the mower, check the blades. If the blades are blunt, damaged or showing signs of imbalance, then they must be replaced. All 3 blades and screws will need to be replaced to keep a balanced cutting system. You'll receive 3 blades in the box at the time of delivery; thereafter, a pack of 5 full replacements can be bought (£19.99 from Cleva UK).

How does it compare to other models?

The Lawnmaster OcuMow 16 MX 24V VBRM16 is battery-operated, which means that it doesn't have a charging station. This sets it apart from many other robot lawn mowers that have more of a permanent presence on the lawn and take up more space.

It's smaller than the Bosch VISIMOW18V-100, which, at the time (April 2026), was the smallest robot mower Gardens Editor, Sophie King, had tested for Ideal Home, which measures 22.6 x 42.9 x 34.8 cm. This means that the Lawnmaster OcuMow will take up even less room in the shed, if that's an essential criterion to meet.

There's also no accompanying app for the Lawnmaster OcuMow 16 MX 24V VBRM16, which means you can't customise or control it from your phone like you can with the Eufy E15, for example. For gardeners who prefer to have remote control of their robot mower, then this may not be the most suitable LawnMaster – even though you can just set and forget (for a few hours).

Certainly, compared with push lawn mowers such as the Webb 40V 38cm Rear Roller Lawnmower, the Lawnmaster OcuMow is quiet in operation. I recorded a noise level reading of between 58dB-60dB which is what I'd consider a subtle hum that won't distract or annoy the neighbours. I also like how discreet it is in stature because it won't be parked on a charging station 24/7, and it can be stored in the shed (without the battery) when it's not in use.

Verdict: Should you buy the Lawnmaster OcuMow 16 MX 24V VBRM16?

I've found that the Lawnmaster OcuMow 16 MX 24V VBRM16 is a brilliant robotic lawnmower if all you want (or are prepared to do) is to charge a battery and trust that it'll cut the grass. Aside from charging the battery (which took 1 hour), I had this mower cutting the grass within 20 seconds.

It'll either stop mowing the grass when you hit the "STOP" button or when it runs out of battery circa 4 hours later.

Total control of the OcuMow 16 is from the buttons and dials on the deck – there's no app for remote control, or any customisation options including scheduling. Whilst I do like being able to set and forget about a robot lawn mower, I don't always relish all the features an app can offer – plus it can take a lot of time and faff to set up.

This means that I would highly recommend the OcuMow 16 to anyone who would like a robot lawn mower, without any bells and whistles, that is easy to use and then simple to store after each mow. After all, sub £300 for a robotic lawn mower is always going to be a cut above the rest.

Roses give us so much joy and colour when they're blooming, so it pays to give them some TLC in September so they can get through the trials of autumn and winter.

Paying them some attention now will pay dividends later with healthy and strong roses next year.

We spoke to our gardening experts, and they've given us some fabulous tips on how to prep these favourite blooms right now.

1. Deadhead and lightly prune

First up is deadheading your roses, followed by a light prune.

'In September, rose care is about finishing strong and getting ready for winter, not heavy pruning,' advises Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

'Keep deadheading repeat-flowering varieties until mid to late September, cutting just above a healthy leaf to push one last flush, then stop so the plant can start to harden off before the first frosts.'

Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse at Easy Garden Irrigation agrees, 'You don’t want to prune the rose stems back too much as this would encourage new growth which would be damaged in the colder autumn weather to come.'

A last tip from Julian: 'If your roses produce hips, leave the last flowers on; the hips look good and the plant benefits from putting energy into wood rather than more blooms.'

Our favourite deadheading and pruning secateurs are the Burgon & Ball RHS Endorsed rose pruners, £24.95 on Amazon. They are fully hardened and tempered and have a sap groove to prevent sticking.

2. Tidy up above and below

As well as deadheading and pruning, at this time of year it's vital to look around the roses and underneath too.

Lucie explains, 'It's important to remove any leaves infected with diseases (like black spot) or diseased stems as if these are left the spores could overwinter and establish themselves in the following spring. You should also remove any dead stems or dying wood, as this will stop any decay from spreading and will help to open up the frame of the rose for good air circulation.' 


And don't forget to tidy up underneath as well, 'Make sure fallen flower petals or blooms are removed before they start to rot as well as the leaves as they fall – leaving fallen foliage to decay on the ground often becomes the perfect environment for fungal diseases to become established. Removing fallen debris also allows air to circulate freely around the base of your plants which helps create a healthy environment less inviting for pests and keeps the crown dry to help prevent issues with mold or rot,' adds Lucie.

Pop your dead stems and debris in these flexi tubs, set of 2 for £32.99, Amazon. Various colours are available, from bright yellow to purple and lime green.

3. Don't feed, but do water

It might be tempting to feed your roses as the heads die off and the temperatures cool, but according to Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director at LBS Horticulture we shouldn't.

'You should stop fertilising roses in September so that they stop producing tender new growth and begin hardening their wood for winter. If September is dry, keep watering roses to support any late flowers and prevent the roots from drying out.'

'Roses will naturally go into winter dormancy from around November until February and by stopping supplying them with nutrients in September you will be reinforcing that it’s time for them to slow down their growth, harden off any soft growth and begin to prepare for a rest through the colder months,' adds Lucie.

Amazon have a fabulous ergonomic 8 litre watering can, £21.22, that has a longer spout for more controlled watering, and is lighter to lift than some designs.

4. Train your climbers

If you have climbers, then now is the perfect time to give them a check over.

'Loose or long shoots on climbing and rambling roses should be secured to fences or a trellis to stop them from being damaged by wind,' advises Richard.

According to Lucie, it gives you the opportunity to train them too. 'Stems can be carefully trained horizontally or in a fan shape so they are encouraged to produce flowering side shoots next year along the full length of the stem rather than just at the top.'

Dobies have a great metal rose trellis, from £24.99, that is ideal for training your climbers.

5. Mulch well

'In late September or early October, mulch around the base with well-rotted compost or manure to feed the roots and protect them over winter,' says Julian.

Mulching helps for several reasons – it locks in moisture especially after dry spells and winds, it keeps the soil temperature steady as it gets cooler and it prevents weeds from sprouting up.

We like Strulch – a mineralised straw garden mulch, from £19.99 at Dobies. It's made from wheat straw and has a neutral pH.

Shop our three favourite roses

'Autumn is a good time to plant new roses, as they will have enough time to establish before winter,' suggests Richard.

Growing roses is such a joy, and with different varieties to choose from, there's really something for every garden – from contemporary to classic cottage style. Ensure you give them a little love this September to help them survive the winter well.

Bulb-shopping is one of my favourite September activities, because there are just so many to choose from. You can really tailor your garden colour scheme with them - and to celebrate, I’m rounding up a few of the best bulbs to order in September for pink spring blooms in 2027.

Before we start, it’s important to note that there’s a difference between the best time to plant spring bulbs and ordering them. Some bulbs can be planted in September, like daffodils - but others, like tulips, are best ordered now so that they’re ready for planting later in the autumn.

Still, what better time to stock up? The best spring bulb stockists are selling new collections and classic favourites – and these are the best bulbs to plant in September for pink spring blooms.

Bulb planting kit

1. Tulip 'Dreamer'

If you’re a fan of peonies, you’ll love this one. Tulip ‘Dreamer’ boasts blush pink, double blooms for fluffy border displays. They look just like peonies, flowering from mid- to late spring, with strikingly fresh green foliage. I think they’re the perfect cottage garden plant, and they look beautiful in a vase, too.

‘Tulip ‘Dreamer’ is the sort of luscious, layered variety you’ll want to stop and admire, with beautifully ruffled petals in soft shell pink,’ says Annelise Brilli, Thompson & Morgan’s horticultural expert. ‘Exceptionally generous in flower, it produces at least two blooms per stem, creating a fuller, more abundant display than the average tulip.’

Where to buy Tulip 'Dreamer' bulbs:

• Thompson & Morgan: Buy Tulip 'Dreamer' bulbs in packs of eight, 16 or 32.
• Dutch Grown: Pre-order Tulip 'Dreamer' bulbs for early October dispatch.

2. Tulip 'Huis Ten Bosch'

If you're hoping to order fringed bulbs this September for pink spring blooms in 2027, look no further than Tulip 'Huis Ten Bosch'. The fringed petals are a beautiful rose pink with a creamy white base, appearing between April and May.

Annelise recommends the 'Strawberry Frost' tulip collection, which includes two varieties: Tulip 'Huis Ten Bosch' and Tulip ‘Noordeinde White’, a brilliant white fringed tulip.

'Tulip ‘Strawberry Frost’ provides the perfect contrast to the softness of ‘Dreamer’, with crisply fringed petals delicately coloured in a beautifully balanced blend of pink and cream,' says Annelise.

Where to buy Tulip 'Huis Ten Bosch' bulbs:

• Thompson & Morgan: Order the Tulip 'Strawberry Frost' collection, which includes two different fringed varieties.
• Amazon: Or, order the pink Tulip 'Huis Ten Bosch' bulbs alone.

3. Narcissus 'Casanova'

'Casanova' daffodils might not look pink at first glance, but they're renowned for their delicate apricot-pink coronas. They make a wonderful addition to a pink flower bed or border, and a great choice if you're looking to plant unusual spring bulbs this month.

'Yellow is the colour which immediately springs to mind with daffodils but, surprisingly, there are some unique and exciting varieties which come in shades of pink,' says Annelise.

'The dashing Narcissus ‘Casanova’ barely looks like a daffodil with its ruffled apricot-pink corona sitting flat against white outer petals. Despite its glamorous appearance, ‘Casanova’ is as hardy and dependable as traditional varieties.'

Where to buy Narcissus 'Casanova' bulbs:

• Thompson & Morgan: Order packs of five or 10 Narcissus 'Casanova' bulbs.

4. Tulip 'Pink Impression'

If you're after a classic egg-shaped tulips, Tulip 'Pink Impression' is one of the best bulbs you can order in September for pink spring flowers. It can grow to over half a metre tall, adding height and colour to garden borders, and it's a lovely spring bulb to grow for cut flowers.

'Tulips are one of the best choices for pink spring blooms in 2027, with so many varieties to choose from,' says Charlotte Daubney, bulb expert at Taylors Bulbs. 'In our top three would be Tulip 'Pink Impression', a top-performing Darwin hybrid with giant, long-lasting flowers.'

Where to buy Tulip 'Pink Impression' bulbs:

• Crocus: Order seven Tulip 'Pink Impression' bulbs for £6.99, or 21 for £18.
• Peter Nyssen: Another affordable Tulip 'Pink Impression' stockist.

Plant these bulbs from November for pretty pink displays next spring.

Tomato plants are gifts that keep on giving, and if you’re lucky, yours will still be pumping out fresh tomatoes at this time of the year. To give your crop a boost, it’s worth knowing what to do with tomato plants in September.

Learning how to grow tomatoes gives you plenty of bang for your buck, because a pack of seeds alone can grow dozens and dozens of plants – and each plant has the potential to produce countless tomatoes. By September, many plants have been fruiting for a while – but that doesn’t mean their season is over.

As it turns out, there are a few ways to keep them fruiting or, at the very least, ripen the tomatoes that have already formed. If you’ve already revived your tomato plants after the heatwaves and are wondering what to do with your tomato plants in September, here are a few tips to keep them going.

What you'll need

1. Remove new flowers and tiny fruit

There are lots of reasons tomatoes don't turn red, but sometimes, it’s all down to an energy problem. More specifically, energy that's being misdirected.

The fix? Start removing new flowers that appear on your plant, as well as tiny fruits that just don’t seem to be growing.

‘Make sure to pinch out new flower trusses because they’re unlikely to produce worthwhile ripe tomatoes before the weather turns,’ says Helen Hutchings-Cox (@helenlikesplants), allotmenteer and GARDENA Top of the Plots Judge.

‘This gives the plant the opportunity to put its energy into ripening the already formed fruit.'

You can either pinch the fruit and flowers off by hand or use a pair of snips like these Darlac Deadheading Snips from B&Q.

2. Get rid of redundant leaves

New flowers and petite fruit aren’t the only things you should remove from your tomato plants in September. Helen says we should be snipping away yellowing tomato leaves, too, as well as any other foliage that looks unhealthy.

‘Keep plenty of healthy foliage around the developing fruit, but start to remove any yellowing, damaged or diseased leaves,’ she advises. ‘It is important not to strip the plant bare, because the leaves are still powering ripening.’

The GARDENA PremiumCut Pro Secateurs (which you can order from Amazon) are perfect for the task – just make sure you’re cleaning your garden tools properly between plants, especially if you’re dealing with diseased leaves.

3. Give your plants less water

Water your plants less might sound like counterproductive advice given that we’re on the climb-down from a drought, but it becomes key for tomato plants as September progresses.

‘As temperatures fall and growth slows, tomatoes need less water,’ Helen explains. ‘Avoid keeping the soil constantly wet, particularly in the greenhouse, as this encourages disease.’

Helen does note, however, that it’s important to give your plants water when they need it. If the hot weather creeps into this month, you’ll still need to keep your plants hydrated – so it’s worth feeling the top inch of the soil and watering when it feels dry. Or, grab a soil moisture meter like this one from Amazon.

These simple tasks can go a long way towards ensuring a bumper crop – or making the most of whatever your tomatoes have left to give.

Whether you're a first-time lawnmower owner or you're looking for an upgrade, you've probably already decided which type you'd like. There are petrol lawnmowers, electric lawnmowers or even more convenient, the cordless mower. I've tested a few mowers, all of which have been cordless — and there's no denying the practicality of these battery-powered machines. Not only are they great for small to medium-sized gardens, but the Ryobi ONE+ 18V mower is a great buy for smaller gardens with a tiny amount of shed space to offer.

I've been testing this mower for a few weeks. I used it to tidy my grass after a heatwave, which was followed by a much-needed rainstorm. Then, I used it once more to trim after a bunch of rain and a swift growth spurt of my grass. This typical UK weather, although annoying, means that this lawnmower was put through its paces.

In a nutshell

This Ryobi lawnmower is available to buy on its own, but it is more cost-efficient to purchase it with the matching strimmer, as they share the same battery, which also comes included. It's great for small- to medium-sized gardens thanks to its average battery life, which I found works for around 20 minutes from a full charge. While I would only recommend it for those who tend to mow their lawn with the grass bag attached, it is easy to clean after use.

Otherwise, this mower is great for those with a smaller amount of shed space to spare, as its foldable design benefits from being able to be stored on 2 wheels or 4. And it's nice and compact, as well as lightweight at less than 10kg. Not only that, but it offers 7 grass cutting heights, whether you only leave yours to grow for 2 weeks or end up mowing it every 2 months. Its handlebar can sit at 2 heights, but admittedly, even the shortest was too high for me, and I'm 5ft2. I could still use it, but I could've done with it being a tad lower for comfort.

Product specs

• Suitable for (lawn size): 220m²
• Power: 18V
• Cutting options: 25mm - 90mm (7 settings)
• Weight: 9.3kg
• Dimensions: W36.5cm x L103cm x H100cm/105cm
• Cutting width: 33cm
• Cutting heights: 7
• Grass collection: 30L basket
• Folding: Yes

Unboxing the Ryobi

This lawnmower arrived in a large box, but it was still light enough for me to manage to carry from my doorstep to my garden. Once opened, I was quite impressed that a box this small fit a mower and a strimmer inside, plus a battery and the charger.

All parts were wrapped with recyclable cardboard or paper. There was minimal plastic waste. Included were 3 instruction manuals — 1 for the mower, the other for the strimmer and the last for the battery.

The lawnmower required minimal assembly. It was fairly easy to lift out of the box thanks to its handle, and I didn't even have to refer to the manual, really. I decided on a height I wanted the handle to sit at (spoiler alert: it's the lowest setting always as I am 5ft2) and tightened these screws.

The battery arrived with 3 bars, but I charged it anyway. Other than that, I only needed to fit the grass box, which has to be attached to the machine otherwise it gets clogged with mulching.

Despite showing 3 bars and charging for 30 mins to an hour, this mower died halfway through my first mow. I was disappointed to say the least, so I popped it back on charge. This only took a few hours to reach its full capacity.

Who will it suit?

This mower is a brilliant buy for smaller lawns and those who know they'll always use a grass box. Perhaps you hate the mess? Or maybe you use the clippings to feed your compost? Either way, you can't use this mower without the grass bag attached, as it can't drop the grass mulchings back onto your lawn — the mower will just get clogged. It doesn't explicitly say this in the manual, but there are no photos of the grass bag not attached to the mower, and I tested it both ways, so I know it performs much better with the grass bag attached.

I also think it's great for tiny sheds since it folds down to an impressively minimal size. There's also the fact that the matching strimmer (you can buy a bundle which includes both the mower and the strimmer) is powered by the same battery.

Lastly, if you require a lightweight mower to easily lift out from your shed and carry back home, then this is a great choice, as not only does it weigh less than 10kg (without its battery), but it has a carry handle, which makes lugging it around so much more convenient.

What's it like to use?

This mower is like most others when it comes to operation. It does benefit from a total of seven cutting heights, but in my opinion, numbers 6 and 7 won't really do much unless you've let your lawn grow way above your ankles. I found that cutting height 2 worked best for my somewhat patchy lawn (thanks, heatwave!).

There is a noticeable difference between cutting heights 1 and 7, with 1 being 25mm and 7 being 90 mm — there's no other information about the cutting heights in the manual, so I can only assume that these levels go in increments of around 9mm, which is an admittedly strange figure.

It has a safety switch which requires you to operate two buttons together to turn it on. There's one large green button on its handle, and the other you need to pull is on either handle. This bodes well for left- and right-handed users.

This safety feature is great as I usually would mow my lawn with my toddler around — this noise tends to wake her from her slumber, as her bedroom window faces onto the garden.

The only thing I could moan about at this stage, before actually trimming any grass, is that its two height settings were definitely still a little too high for little old me. Even at the lowest height, the handlebar was sitting just below chest height for me, and I'd rather it be a little lower down. It's not the end of the world, but my current mower does sit at a better height. Something to bear in mind if you're less than five feet four.

JSYK: the shortest height setting is 100cm from the floor, and the tallest is 105cm.

This mower can only be used with the bag attached. This isn't explicitly worded in the manual, but the photos only seem to have the bag attached, plus I used it without the bag, and it immediately clogged.

There's no information online regarding this mower's battery life. Included with my mower came a 4.0Ah battery. Online, it says that this battery will take 50 minutes to charge. It doesn't give a figure for battery life.

The battery has four bars. It was fully charged when I used it the second time to mow my lawn. I found that each bar lasts for around seven minutes of mowing (or strimming!), which leads me to think that the total battery life is around 25-28 minutes.

Decking corners

This mower had to work around the corners of my decking, plus I recently acquired a somewhat sizeable climbing frame in my garden, so it had to manoeuvre its way around these posts, too.

The grass always grows longer around the corners of my decking, as this is by my dog's pee spot (lovely, I know!).

While this mower did trim around the edges of my deck, as you can see, it did miss a few strands of longer grass. I initially went over the corners on a 7, which made no difference, and then tried a 6. This made somewhat of a minimal difference. I ended up mowing the entire grass on setting 2 — so also did this around the edges.

I usually tidy these sides with a trimmer to catch the missing strands anyway, so this isn't a huge deal. I was, overall, quite impressed with how it mowed around the edges of my decking and my toddler's climbing frame.

Corners

I really put this lawnmower through its paces on the corners of my lawn — one corner in particular always grows at a rapid rate. The first time I used this mower, the grass in this section was very long. The second time, it mostly needed a trim. This was tackled speedily and easily, with no complaints from my side!

The edges of my lawn were fairly tidy, even before strimming them, which I was pleased by, and there wasn't much cleanup to do around my patio, either.

Weeds

This lawnmower did a great job at chopping away weeds. I tackled both long, wild weeds and short ones, too. After using this mower, all of the weeds on my grass were officially headless.

With the larger, tougher weeds, I did have to mow over them a good few times.

General grass cutting

As far as general grass cutting goes, I found the perfect length at number 2. This was pretty easy to do, especially as my lawn isn't huge. I did struggle around the climbing frame, and noticed that some spots were too small to manoeuvre around, so these areas would have to be strimmed instead.

All in all, I couldn't moan about the general grass cutting that this lawnmower did in my garden. It looked tidy and refreshed, which is the point of it!

Cleaning

When the grass bag is attached, all you need to do is empty it and give it a really good shake. You shouldn't really need to brush the main part of the mower down.

I actually really like the design of the grass bag that comes with this mower, mostly because it's made from a see-through mesh, so easy to see if it's nearly full. But also, this mesh design means you don't really need to brush it clean. Grass clippings easily come away from the mesh sides and roof of the bag when you shake it, while the leather-like base helps clippings slide away.

Storage and maintenance

Arguably, the best thing about this lawnmower has to be its foldable design. Simply unscrew its handle screws (the ones that you move to adjust the handle height), and the handle folds backwards to sit on the main unit. To make it even more compact, remove the grass bag and sit this on top of the main unit, too.

When folded down, it measures W36.5cm x L66cm.

Thanks to its handle, it can be easily moved into a shed. You can store it sitting on four wheels or upright on two wheels, depending on the space available in your shed or garage.

When it comes to maintenance, the manual says you should check the blades before every use and replace if need be. I can't seem to find a replacement blade on the Ryobi site that's compatible with this model — RY18LMX33A.

How does it rate online?

Online, this mower gets good reviews. On the Ryobi website, the bundle has a 4.4-star rating out of 5. It gets rave reviews when it comes to ease of use and battery life.

The individual mower has a rating of 4.5 stars, and most shoppers love how simple it is to use. There are some complaints about its battery life, though.

At Amazon, this lawnmower is rated 4.3 stars out of 5. It's Amazon's Choice lawnmower, and shoppers say it's great for small and medium-sized lawns, and it's nice and lightweight.

How does it compare to similar models and its predecessors?

There are several variations of the Ryobi 18V ONE+ lawnmower available. This mower comes in different cutting width options — from 33cm to 37cm, 40cm, and 46cm. It also comes with different batteries. The mower I tested came with a 4.0Ah battery, but there is also a 5.0Ah battery available. The bigger battery can mow a lawn that's 225 metres squared. The smaller one is for lawns of 180 metres squared.

You can also purchase this lawnmower without a battery.

Should you buy the Ryobi 18V ONE+ lawnmower?

There's no denying that this lawnmower does the job, but it does come at an admittedly expensive price. Unless you're also going to buy the matching strimmer which runs from the same battery, I think that this mower is a lot of money for what it is. When you buy the bundle, this is cheaper than buying the lawnmower on its own, so if you do need both, it might be more cost effective.

Even so, I would still only recommend buying this mower if you always use the grass bag attached to your mower, as it cannot be used without it this part attached. Even more so, it might not be comfortable for anyone under 5 foot 4 to use, as its handle might sit too high.

If your neighbour's plants have grown into your garden and are causing an eyesore, blocking the light or dropping leaves in your space, you'll probably want to know if you can cut them back.

However, before you get out the secateurs, make sure you understand the rules around cutting your neighbour's plants to ensure you aren't breaking the law in the garden

'It can be really frustrating when plants from your neighbour’s garden start to spill over into your space. In England and Wales, you’re allowed to cut back any plants that cross onto your property, but only up to the boundary line,' says Natalie Welsh, Head of Property at HCB Widdows Mason.

1. Always speak to your neighbour first

'You can trim the overhanging branches or parts of a hedge that are encroaching into your garden and can do this without notice to your neighbour,' says Janet Lane, Property Litigation Solicitor at Rogers and Norton.

However, this doesn't mean you shouldn't ask them first – asking first is just neighbourly behaviour – and acting without your neighbour's knowledge could lead to a garden neighbour dispute.

'For best practice, take some photographs of the overhanging tree/bushes and knock on your neighbour’s door. Show them the photos and ask whether they have any objections to you trimming up your side,' says Jordan Kluth, property law expert at John Fowlers. 'Falling out with neighbours and getting into disputes will not only make living at the property uncomfortable, but it can become very expensive if it needs to involve legal proceedings.'

2. Do not go over your boundary

While you can cut your neighbour's plants if they grow into your garden, you must not trespass on their property, as this is illegal.

'You must not trespass onto the neighbour’s property to carry out the work or do anything that could be considered a nuisance in the legal sense. This principle also applies if you are trimming a ‘party hedge’ where both neighbours have rights and responsibilities regarding its maintenance,' says Janet Lane, Property Litigation Solicitor at Rogers and Norton,

Natalie Welsh, Head of Property at HCB Widdows Mason, seconds this, adding that 'boundary disputes can often become costly and acrimonious – if you’re not sure about your rights or think things might get tricky, it’s a good idea to speak to a legal expert first.'

In short, remember it’s an offence to prune your neighbour’s tree on their side of the fence.

3. Do not damage the plant

Trimming the plant is fine; damaging it is not – so make sure you know how to cut back the plant in question.

'You must not damage the main trunk or structure, and you should check first that the tree or hedge isn’t protected by a Tree Preservation Order or in a conservation area,' explains Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

When cutting a neighbour's plant – or any plant – it is important to disinfect your secateurs to prevent infection from being introduced to the plant via the blades. This is easy to do; just wipe the blades with an antibacterial spray or wipes – like these disinfecting wipes from Amazon. If your blades are blunt, make sure you sharpen your secateurs.

If you don't have secateurs, invest in the best secateurs you can afford – Spear & Jackson's 7159BS Razorsharp Advantage Bypass Secateurs, available on Amazon, are some of our favourites.

4. Correctly dispose of cutting

Not that you do not own the cuttings. 'The cuttings, and any fruit or flowers on them, still belong to your neighbour, so you need to offer them back,' explains Julian Palphramand, Head of Plants at British Garden Centres.

Something that is seconded by Natalie Welsh, Head of Property at HCB Widdows Mason, who adds: 'You mustn’t just throw them back over the fence - that's fly-tipping, which is illegal. If your neighbour doesn’t want the trimmings, then it’s down to you to dispose of them responsibly, whether that’s your garden waste bin or taking them to the recycling centre.'

This applies whether you are pruning a rose or fruit tree or trimming a hedge.

Keep on the right side of your neighbour and make sure you follow this guidance to avoid any complaints or disputes.

Looking to plant some easy-care spring bulbs this month? There are so many low-maintenance daffodil bulbs you can plant in September.

Daffodils usually crown a list of bulbs you can plant in September, and for good reason: they’re among the easiest spring flowers you can grow in the garden, return year after year, and produce some of the earliest displays.

To help you decide which varieties to go for (and there are lots), I’ve pulled together a list of five low-maintenance daffodil bulbs to plant in September. I’ve included stockist details, too, so you can start ordering them ASAP!

What you'll need

1. Narcissus 'Tête-à-tête'

Narcissus ‘Tête-à-tête’ has long been a reigning daffodil variety, and it’s renowned for being one of the easiest spring bulbs to grow in pots. It grows just as well in garden borders, though – and it’s among the best low-maintenance bulbs you can plant in September.

‘One of our top three suggestions would be Narcissus ‘Tête-à-tête’, great for pots as well as dotted into borders,’ says Charlotte Daubney, bulb expert at Taylors Bulbs.

‘Daffodils are the number-one bulb you should be planting in your gardens! They are very low maintenance, very reliable, pest resistant and perennial, so they will come back each year. They’re also a great investment, as they multiply over time.’

Where to buy 'Tête-à-tête' bulbs:

• Peter Nyssen: Buy 25 Narcissus ‘Tête-à-tête’ bulbs for £5 (or even higher quantities, if you’re filling a larger space!).
• Crocus: Organic and regular ‘Tête-à-tête’ bulbs are available.

2. Narcissus 'Bridal Crown'

‘Bridal Crown’ daffodils look a lot higher maintenance than they really are: majestic, creamy-white ruffled blooms with an orange-yellow centre. They’re easy to look after, though – and one of the best bulbs you can plant for scent.

‘Clusters of double, layered blooms with yellow centres release a wonderfully sweet perfume, making this RHS-recommended variety irresistible in generous drifts or planted in patio containers,’ says Thompson & Morgan’s horticultural expert, Annelise Brilli.

'Cut a few stems for a vase and enjoy their beautiful, fragrant flowers indoors too, extending the spring display beyond the garden.’

Where to buy ‘Bridal Crown’ bulbs:

• Thompson & Morgan: Narcissus ‘Bridal Crown’ bulb packs are available from £11.99.
• YouGarden: Grab the 3 for 2 bulb offer when you buy Daffodil ‘Bridal Crown’.

3. Narcissus 'Ice Baby'

If you’re after something a little different from a daffodil's signature yellow flowers, Narcissus ‘Ice Baby’ produces miniature white blooms. It’s another recommendation of Annelise’s for low-maintenance daffodils to plant in September.

‘This miniature daffodil is a little gem that makes a big impression in smaller gardens and container displays,’ says Annelise. ‘Best appreciated at close quarters, its crisp, reflexed petals surround a perfectly formed snow white cup.

‘Planted along the front of a garden border, it naturalises readily, gradually filling gaps between emerging perennials and delivering a welcome flush of early spring colour from late March.’

Where to buy ‘Ice Baby’ bulbs:

• Amazon: Order 25 Narcissus ‘Ice Baby’ bulbs from The Great British Bulb Company.
• Peter Nyssen: Buy packs of Narcissus ‘Ice Baby’ bulbs in various sizes.

4. Narcissus 'February Gold'

Low-maintenance Narcissus ‘February Gold’ can also be planted in September. Its golden-yellow flowers are perfect for brightening up a garden in late winter and early spring.

‘’February Gold’ is a great variety for those early spring flowers,’ agrees Charlotte from Taylors Bulbs.

Besides rewarding you with earlier spring blooms, ‘February Gold’ also holds an RHS Award of Garden Merit. Just make sure you know how deep to plant daffodil bulbs for the best displays.

Where to buy ‘February Gold’ bulbs:

• Marshalls Garden: Order 8 Daffodil 'February Gold' bulbs for £11.99.
• Crocus: Buy Narcissus 'February Gold' bulbs in various pack sizes.

5. Narcissus 'Thalia'

Last but by no means is a classic daffodil variety: Narcissus ‘Thalia’. It’s often considered one of the best spring bulbs for cut flowers, and it’s another white-bloomed showstopper that’s rich in nectar (perfect for the bees in early spring!).

Charlotte recommends ‘Thalia’ to those of us looking for low-maintenance daffodil bulbs to plant in September, describing it as, ‘A dainty, delicate, multiheaded white variety, and a firm favourite at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show.'

Where to buy ‘Thalia’ bulbs:

• Thompson & Morgan: Order Narcissus 'Thalia' bulbs to grow ice-white flowers.
• YouGarden: Another great place to buy Daffodil 'Thalia' bulbs at a competitive price.

These easy-care daffodils are sure to steal the show in spring. You could even plant several varieties at once for a mix of colours and texture.

It’s been a long, hot summer, so no surprise that some areas of the garden are looking less than fabulous. Containers are often one of the first casualties come September with pots drying out and plants dying back.

But it’s not too late to breathe some life back into a tired garden with a splash of late-summer colour - and refreshing faded containers and pots is one of the easiest ways to do it. Simply choose the right combination of plants to add to pots in September and you can enjoy a burst of instant colour that will see your garden all through the autumn months.

‘By September, many summer containers have started to look past their best,’ says Matt J Adams, founder and lead gardener at The Relentless Gardener. ‘But rather than replacing everything, this is a good opportunity to remove plants that have finished, introduce a few fresh performers and give the plants you’re keeping the care they need to continue looking good into autumn.’

1. Chrysanthemums

‘I like to create containers with a mixture of flower colour and foliage, choosing flowering plants that can cope as temperatures begin to fall,’ says Matt. ‘Chrysanthemums are an easy way to make an immediate impact in pots, with compact varieties available in everything from fiery orange and yellow to pink, red and white. Chrysanthemum ‘Conella Orange’, is particularly effective for an autumnal display, and regular deadheading will encourage a longer-lasting show.’

‘Potted chrysanthemums add a lovely splash of colour, including orange, yellow, red, pink and white, and they can be grouped together to create a lively, bold display, says Chris Bonnet, founder of Gardening Express. ‘Place them somewhere sunny with partial shade to help keep the colours vibrant, making sure to keep them moist. If the blooms begin to fade, pinch them off to encourage new growth.’

Where to buy chrysanthemums:

• Thompson & Morgan: Bring autmnal colour to your garden with this fiery Chrysanthemum 'Conella Orange', £19.99.
• B&Q: Enjoy the sunny shades of this easy-to-grow Chrysanthemum Yellow, £10.40.

2. Dahlias

‘September doesn’t have to mean the end of splashes of colour in your garden and it’s actually a great time of year to give tired-looking pots a refresh, especially if they’ve suffered during heatwaves,’ says David Denyer, flower and garden expert at eflorist.

‘Start by removing the plants that are clearly past their best. Deadheading plants like dahlias will encourage the roots to concentrate energy on new growth and flowers, potentially leading to another flush of colour before the season is out. Dahlias in pots are fantastic for providing bold colours later in the season and can continue flowering well into early autumn when conditions are hit and miss.

‘Dahlias are a great choice for adding instant colour to pots throughout September,’ adds Chris. ‘With a wide range of colours, shapes and sizes, choose compact varieties for containers and look for plants already in bud for an immediate display. Plant your dahlias in good quality peat-free compost with good drainage, and position in full sun.’

Where to buy dahlias:

• Sarah Raven: In deepest pink that will add instant impact, try Dahlia 'Molly Raven', from £6.95.
• Gardening Express: Or go for the peachy tones of this Giant Flowered Dahlia - Salmon Runner, £12.99

Shop for outdoor containers

3. Sedum

‘Sedum also looks lovely throughout September, making them perfect for pots at this time of year,’ suggests Chris. ‘Planting them in September gives their roots time to establish, while their delicate flowerheads provide a beautiful splash of colour that can last well into autumn.’

‘Sedum is a great low-maintenance container plant that can be particularly useful when you want pots to continue looking interesting as summer draws to a close,’ adds David. ‘It’s foliage actually stores water, making it extremely forgiving during dry periods, and the plant remains attractive even when it isn’t in bloom, making it a useful choice if you want your containers to offer more than flowers alone.’

Where to buy sedum:

• Gardening Express: With large heads of rusty red flowers, try Sedum Herbstfreude - Autumn Joy, £7.99.
• Primrose: Or go for the paler pink tones of this Sedum Matrona, Stonecrop Hylotelephium, £7.99.

4. Pansies and violas

‘In September, you want to be thinking about adding plants that are going to last through the cooler months,’ advises Craig Wilson, co-founder and gardening expert at Gardeners Dream. ‘Bedding plants, like pansies and violas are great choices and are easy to care for. They are hardy plants that can survive tough weather, including frost, and the bright colour options give gardens a lovely boost to see you through the darker months.’

‘Pansies and violas thrive best in positions where they can enjoy around four to six hours of sun a day, but partial shaded spots also work well for them, too,' adds Craig. 'Just remember that if you have your pansies or violas in pots and hanging baskets, they tend to dry out quicker than if they are planted in garden beds, so keep a close check on them. I’d aim to water around once a week if the weather is dry, reducing the frequency once the autumn rain hits.’

Where to buy pansies and violas:

• Gardeners Dream: Enjoy the purple and white tones of these pretty Pansy Ocean Breeze plants, £16.99 for a pack of six.
• J. Parker's: Or go for these sunny orange and purple Viola Sorbet Orange Duet, from £11.99.

5. Cyclamen

‘Cyclamen are a good choice when a container is positioned somewhere that doesn't receive full sun,’ suggests Matt. ‘Hardy varieties such as Cyclamen hederifolium combine delicate flowers with interesting foliage and can bring autumn colour to a darker corner of a patio or entrance.’

‘But choosing the plants is only half the job,’ adds Matt. ‘Containers can dry out surprisingly quickly, even in September, so water containers thoroughly when needed while making sure excess water can drain away. If you're reusing a pot, remove tired plants and dead roots, refresh the surface of the compost and avoid overcrowding the new planting. Giving plants a little more space may mean the container looks less full initially, but they'll have better conditions to establish.’

Where to buy cyclamen:

• Suttons: Bold pink flowers look eye-catching, Cyclamen hederifolium, from £8.99.
• Thompson & Morgan: Or go for the vibrant purple flowers of these Cyclamen coum, from £9.99.

6. Bidens

‘Bidens boast yellow or white daisy-like flowers and will provide plenty of colour throughout September,’ says David. ‘And their shape can add a level of versatility to a display when added to pots and containers.’

‘Bidens are also more drought-tolerant than a lot of bedding plants, coping well with the occasional missed watering, so a great option for gardeners looking for maximum autumnal colour with minimal maintenance involved.’

Where to buy bidens:

• Thompson & Morgan: Add a burst of sunny colour with these Bidens ferulifolia 'Golden Eye' - Seeds, 99p per pack.
• Amazon: Or go for multicoloured flowers with these Mixed Biden seeds, £8.99 per pack.

7. Ornamental cabbage and kale

‘If you want to rely less on flowers, ornamental cabbage and kale can provide plenty of interest for pots through autumn,’ suggests Matt. ‘Their foliage develops stronger shades of green, purple, pink and white as temperatures fall, and they add useful texture when combined with flowering plants.’

‘Feeding is also important if you want flowering plants to keep performing into autumn. Once plants are actively growing, I use Blooms Booster All-Purpose Liquid Plant Feed with seaweed, from £9.50, from The Relentless Gardener, as part of my regular plant-care routine,’ adds Matt. ‘It has a higher potassium content to encourage flower growth rather than excessive foliage, and contains 20% liquid seaweed to support healthy roots and shoots. It only needs applying every three to four weeks, so it’s an easy addition to regular watering.’

Where to buy ornamental cabbage:

• Carbeth Plants: Add drama with these vibrant ornamental cabbages, £11.99.
• B&Q: Or go for this pale toned variety White Ornamental Cabbage 4 Pack, £11.99.

8. Heucheras

‘For something that can provide interest beyond a single season, heucheras are another useful container plant,’ suggests Matt. ‘Their foliage comes in shades ranging from bright lime to deep burgundy and almost black, making them particularly effective for adding contrast to brighter autumn flowers.’

‘But the aim isn't simply to keep a container looking colourful for another few weeks. Good feeding, sensible watering and choosing plants suited to the conditions can help maintain healthier plants and prolong the display as summer gives way to autumn.’

‘September containers don't need to be complicated. Start with a few plants that are already looking good, combine different heights, colours and textures, and then look after them properly. With the right care, a tired summer pot can become one of the most useful features in the garden as the season changes.’

Where to buy heucheras:

• Gardening Express: Mix it up with the combination of colours in these Handsome Heuchera Collection, £24.99.
• Primrose: Or go dark with this dramatic purple Heuchera Wildberry Coral Bells, £12.99.

So, the end of summer doesn't have to mean the end of your container displays, revive pots with a few new plants and they'll see you right through autumn.

If you’re considering adding a pergola to your garden, you might want to double-check the planning permission rules in your local area. Even if you know the rules, it can be easy to be caught out, as a content creator in Nottingham found out when the council ordered her to take down her pergola.

Belle Rogers from Nottingham, known as @bydesignermum on TikTok and Instagram, has gone viral after revealing that the council has ordered her to take down the wooden pergola in the garden at the back of her house, where she’s lived for 11 years, following an anonymous complaint.

The content creator originally built the pergola in 2021 during COVID as the finishing touch to her patio ideas. This little sanctuary included a stylish dip tank and seating area filled with plants and festoon lights. Typically, pergolas fall under permitted development, meaning you don’t need to apply for planning permission if your structure meets certain criteria. In the case of a pergola, it must cover less than 50% of the garden, and it is below 2.5 metres high (if it's within 2 metres of a neighbour's fence). However, the rules differ if you’re dealing with a listed building or live in a conservation area, where restrictions are tighter.

Belle’s beautiful home is a Grade II listed home in a conservation area. When speaking to Ideal Home, Belle admits that despite being pros at renovating older properties, it didn’t occur to either her or her partner to apply for planning permission for the pergola because it wasn’t a permanent enclosed structure.

‘This is our 14th renovation in 10 years, we’ve always renovated older things - an old chapel, old Georgian houses, an old bank - so we’re pretty much always applying for planning. Everything in this house we’ve applied for planning for: the barn conversion, the conservatory round the back. So we do follow the guidance, but I didn’t think that a wooden pergola outside that wasn’t permanent would need planning permission.’

The pergola was first reported in 2022 for being a permanent structure that was attached to the property. To comply with the council guidelines, Belle took the pergola down.

‘I think they were concerned about the attachment to the actual building, which I do actually understand,’ says Belle. ‘I asked what if we put it on wheels, what if it was movable? And they said, well, if it's movable, then that's fine.’

'I have to admit, at first, I was absolutely gutted when the first, you know, when I had to take down the first one; I left it for a year,' she explains.

In 2025 she decided to take on the challenge of building a moveable pergola and created a new freestanding wooden covering on wheels that was detached from the house.

However, the pergola was reported again. This time the council said that the pergola would need to be taken down by the end of August (2026). In emails seen by Ideal Home, the main reason given for the decision was the similarity between the original pergola and the new one built on wheels, along with maintained objections from the council's conservation officers that it introduced an ‘intrusive feature’.

When approached for a comment on the ruling, Councillor Andy Freeman, Chair of Planning Committee at Newark and Sherwood District Council, said: 'as with any listed building, homeowners must follow specific rules and regulations, and planning permission is often required for structures of this kind.

'This is a protected Grade II listed building, and planning permission was not obtained for the work undertaken. Although the structure has now been placed on wheels, this has not removed the harmful impact identified by the Council’s Conservation professionals. The owner has therefore been asked to remove the structure.'

It’s not the outcome Belle hoped for. She told Ideal Home that she’s confused about why the pergola has been targeted, explaining that it’s hidden around the back of the house and is one of several other garden structures, including a greenhouse and a shepherd’s hut built under permitted development. However, these other structures have drawn no complaints or action from the council.

But despite her disappointment, she has maintained a sunny outlook. She plans to find a way to reuse the pergola (watch this space!) She is also already thinking of ways to replace the structure with parasol trees or something similar to create a natural covering over the patio that the council will approve. 'I emailed the council, and in terms of planting, there are no planning restrictions on what you plant, where it goes, or the height it eventually grows to,' she explains of her new idea.

Following the experience, Belle’s advice for other homeowners living in a listed building or a conservation area is to always check regulations if they’re hoping to build a pergola. ‘The first thing you need to do is look at what’s allowed. Contact the local council because they are pretty good at responding, and find out what the rules are around non-permanent and permanent structures in your garden.’

Many gardeners will gasp at the question, but this summer’s heatwaves have been demanding it: Should I get rid of my lawn?

I’m predicting a shift towards grassless gardens as summers get hotter and hotter (and El Niño is said to be brewing up a sweltering 2027 summer). That’s because this year’s drought and heatwave weather has wiped out thousands of gardens across the UK, leaving a brown plain of straw in its wake (although your lawn might not actually be dead, according to experts). Ideal Home's Editor-in-Chief, Heather, has been thinking about swapping out her lawn for a gravel garden – and after my own lawn took a beating this summer, I'm considering the switch, too.

There are pros and cons to every garden design, of course – so I decided to do a bit of digging and weigh up the benefits and drawbacks of getting rid of a lawn.

The pros of getting rid of a lawn

It goes without saying that a lawn requires a fair amount of upkeep to keep your garden presentable. That means plenty of time spent looking at a lawn care calendar – and unless you’ve got a robot lawn mower, cutting the grass alone can be time-consuming.

If you get rid of your lawn, you’ll have no grass to worry about – and that means you can salvage back time spent on other lawn care tasks, too.

‘A grassless garden requires less fertiliser and fewer regular inputs than a conventional lawn,’ says RHS award-winning garden designer Zoe Claymore. Zoe is currently working on a gravel front garden in West London, which is inspired, in part, by Beth Chatto’s dry garden. The gravel is already on-site, which makes the process more sustainable.

A garden without grass also, of course, needs far less water. No more sprinklers desperately fighting to keep your lawn alive during the summer – and less panic when a hosepipe ban strikes.

If you’re keen to replace your lawn with gravel, B&Q has some lovely options. Personally, I love these Mellow Cotswold Decorative Stones.

A grassless garden can still be a lush, green oasis of plants – you’ll just need to choose drought-tolerant plants that thrive in pots.

‘A well-designed, drought-tolerant gravel garden should need less watering than a lawn once established,’ says Zoe. ‘Choosing plants suited to hot, dry conditions (Beth Chatto’s dry garden and the RHS Hyde Hall have great examples) can keep the garden looking green through drought. My go-tos include rosemary, thyme, bay and purple sage, as well as santolina.’

You can order bay trees from Thompson & Morgan or, on another recommendation of Zoe’s, go for Santolina chamaecyparissus from Crocus.

A lawn certainly isn't a garden feature that will decrease property value, but a low-maintenance gravel garden can add to the appeal.

'In terms of value, getting rid of a lawn probably won't add a set amount to the property, but it can definitely affect how desirable a home feels to buyers,' says Karl McArdle, co-founder of The Property Buying Company.

'A nice and well-finished, low-maintenance garden will make a property stand out, especially for smaller homes or buyers who don't want a lot of upkeep. On the flip side, removing the only lawn from a family-sized property could knock its appeal and even its value.'

Gravel garden essentials

The cons of getting rid of a lawn

Many of you will be reading this article rather sceptically, because for a lot of us, the lawn is the star of the garden. That preference alone is enough to keep your grass and plough your efforts into reviving a dry lawn – but there are other drawbacks to getting rid of a lawn and replacing it with gravel, too.

‘Gravel can absorb and reflect heat, so a good proportion of planting is important to provide soil cooling and not heat your house up,’ Zoe explains.

'In direct sunlight, big expanses of gravel can get absolutely scorching, so combining gravel with some planting and shaded areas is usually a more practical solution than just covering the whole thing with gravel,' adds Karl from The Property Buying Company.

That heat absorption is especially problematic with dark-coloured gravel – so it’s best to go for a lighter colour, like these Polar White Chippings from B&Q, instead.

We already mentioned that a grassless garden is lower maintenance than a garden with a lawn, but that doesn’t mean a gravel garden can be neglected – there are other care tasks that you’ll need to factor in to keep it in good shape.

‘Gravel gardens still need regular weeding and careful editing to look good over the year,’ says Zoe.

Zoe also mentions the sustainability aspect, since you might need to transport large quantities of stone to your garden.

‘In my view, gravel gardens only make sense where there is already material on site that can be reused,’ Zoe explains. ‘Otherwise, allowing grass to grow longer, creating a wildflower meadow, or making big drought-tolerant planted borders with an organic mulch is more sustainable, cheaper, and you’ll still get a good result.’

So, should you get rid of your lawn? If you want to cultivate a low-maintenance, drought-tolerant garden, gravel can be an ideal alternative to grass – you'll just need to choose the right material for your garden, consider costs, and keep on top of weeding.

Prue Leith's stunning sunflower and ammi visnaga (khella) display is serving as inspiration for anyone who wants a flower display that looks equally striking in a vase as in the garden.

Anyone who has grown sunflowers this summer will know how beautiful they look both in your kitchen and in your garden. But what has impressed us about Prue’s display is that she has paired them with a second bloom that helps emphasise the sunflower’s beauty even more.

If you’re looking for a flower bed idea that is as simple as it is stunning, this is why you may want to consider planting khella and sunflowers together for next year’s summer display.

Prue Leith's sunflower and khella display

In an Instagram post, Prue shared a video of her blooming flowers, thanking her gardener, Philippa Lillywhite, for her hard work over the past eight years as she was moving away to live by the sea. Phillipa then commented, informing followers that the flowers on display were ammi visnaga (khella) and sunflowers. And we’re keen to agree that this makes for a great flower pairing.

‘Sunflowers are bold and graphic, while khella have these light, domed heads made up of tiny flowers. The khella almost acts like a cloud around the sunflower heads. It stops the yellow feeling too heavy and gives the whole display movement,’ says Dr Russell Sharp, founder of Eutrema.

‘It feels quite loose and garden-picked. Sunflowers can easily dominate a display because they’re so recognisable, but the khella breaks up those big yellow circles and gives your eye somewhere to rest. It’s also a combination that makes sense both in the border and in a vase, which I always love. You can grow the two together, then cut a few stems and get the same relationship indoors. Prue Leith is known for using strong colour throughout her garden, so the sunflowers feel in keeping with that, while the white khella gives the colour some breathing room.’

Dr Russel also goes on to explain that this isn’t the only khella pairing that works beautifully in a garden. And it’s great news for anyone who loves to grow dahlias.

‘Dahlias give you that dense, sculptural flower head, while ammi adds air and softness around them. I particularly like deep burgundy or plum dahlias with white ammi because the contrast feels rich outdoors but still looks elegant when you cut it for the house,’ he says.

‘Plant the ammi through and around the dahlias rather than in a separate block, so it weaves between them naturally. Then when you cut the flowers, don’t make the arrangement too perfect. A few dahlia stems with airy ammi around them will usually look much better than trying to cram twenty different flowers into one vase.’

Where to buy sunflowers and khella

• Sunflower Plant, £12.99, B&Q
• Mr Fothergills Oh Sow Simple Little Dorrit F1 Sunflower Flower Seeds, £3.60, B&Q
• Cenolophium denudatum, £12.59, Crocus
• Visnaga daucoides (syn. Ammi visnaga) (seeds), £1.99, Crocus

When choosing flower combinations, you want a pair that complement each other. Sunflowers and khella make a dreamy display that is perfect for summer.

Most gardeners will be well aware that between 1 March and 31 August you should never cut back your hedges, as it is bird nesting season in the UK. However, garden and wildlife experts want you to delay picking up the strimmer a little longer in September and perform this vital check.

Anyone who wants to attract birds to a garden should be aware of how the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 protects them. Under this act, it is illegal to deliberately damage or remove a bird's nest in your garden, with the offender sometimes facing an unlimited fine or even prison. This is why you should always avoid cutting your hedge during nesting season.

While nesting season technically comes to an end on 1 September, it is also the moulting season for birds, and during this period they may take refuge in your hedges. So, before you start cutting, experts want you to make this check first.

Why should I check my hedge in September?

Even the best hedging materials for a garden need cutting back, and this is especially true if you’ve chosen fast-growing hedging for quick privacy. But if a bird has taken a fancy to your garden, you should always check for nests before completing any work.

‘You should still check hedges for birds after August because some late-breeding bird species may still be raising their chicks. The breeding season can extend later into the summer for some birds, with individual pairs still having eggs, nestlings or dependent fledglings in and around hedgerows,’ says Lucy Taylor, a wildlife expert at Vine House Farm.

‘More birds may shelter in hedgerows during moulting season because they are more vulnerable to predators at this time, as growing new feathers uses large amounts of energy and can affect their ability to fly.

‘Hedges provide moulting birds with a hiding place where they can remain until they finish shedding and replacing old feathers. It is also important to note that birds are much quieter during the moulting season, as they stop singing or calling to avoid attracting attention to themselves. This may make it less obvious that they are hiding in garden hedges.’

When checking to see if birds are nesting in your hedges, watch to see if birds repeatedly fly in and out of the same spot, are carrying nesting materials into your hedge like twigs or moss and lastly, listen out for chirping birds from inside the hedgerow. If you spot these features, birds are likely nesting in your hedge, and any work should be postponed.

What to do if birds are nesting in your hedge

‘If you spot an active nest in your hedge, simply do not cut the hedge. Postpone your trimming work until the nest is empty and the birds have fledged,’ says Melissa Quinney, gardening expert at Cabin Master.

‘It’s better to be safe and wait a few weeks than to risk causing harm or facing severe legal penalties. A little patience and a careful check are all it takes to keep your garden thriving and our feathered friends safe.’

Instead, monitor your hedge from a distance, and when there are no signs of birds nesting, check again and proceed from there.

Shop nesting boxes

If you want to provide somewhere safe in your garden for birds to make a home, consider investing in a nesting box.

While cutting hedges keeps your garden tidy and neighbours happy, make sure you are keeping your garden birds safe and happy, too.

The effects of El Niño are predicted to deliver an even hotter summer next year, so it’s wise to make the shift towards drought-tolerant planting – and according to experts, climate-resilient trees can make a huge difference to how well your garden copes in hot weather.

There are plenty of drought-tolerant plants that’ll survive sweltering summers, but if you really want to bolster your garden’s defences, the Horticultural Trade Association (HTA) says 'trees are nature’s air conditioning’. That’s because they provide shade during heatwaves while improving soil structure and even helping to manage rainfall.

The HTA has named their top three climate-resilient tree choices for 2027, but notes that, ‘All plants and trees, even ones like these, will need more water and more TLC in their first 18 months or so after planting – this allows them time to get a good, deep root system established, so allowing them to really perform well in drier conditions once established.’

Here are the top three recommendations, just in time for autumn planting.

Tree planting kit

1. Golden rain tree

The golden rain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata) looks exactly as it sounds: flushes of striking yellow flowers, which closely resemble laburnum, provide a real spectacle across the seasons. If you’re looking for a low-maintenance multi-stem tree that’s drought-tolerant once established, it’s a fantastic choice.

‘Of Indian origin, this gorgeous tree can ultimately grow up to 10m,’ says Pippa Greenwood, the HTA’s horticulture manager and regular panellist on Gardeners’ Question Time. ‘The foliage is strongly tinged pink in the spring and becomes strong yellow in the autumn; the masses of tiny yellow flowers are followed by pink bladder-like fruits.’

Pippa advises choosing a sunny spot with any reasonably well-drained soil for your golden rain tree.

Where to buy golden rain trees:

• Thompson & Morgan: Koelreuteria paniculata 'Golden Sun' is available for September pre-ordering.
• Dobies: Order an 18-litre potted golden rain tree now.

2. Empress tree

Paulownia tomentosa has several common names, from the empress or princess tree to a foxglove tree (owing to its bell-shaped flowers). It’s nothing short of magnificent when it’s in flower, and is equipped with even more drought-tolerance than many other flowering or blossom trees.

‘This tree has large oval and slightly lobed leaves which can measure up to 25cm,’ says Pippa. ‘The pale purple and perfumed flowers hang in groups. A sheltered spot in full sun and with well-drained soil will allow it to thrive.’

Where to buy empress trees:

• Gardening Express: Order an empress tree that's already 150-180cm tall.
• Crocus: Paulownia elongata 'Futuro' is a slightly different species, but it's fast-growing and absorbs up to five times more CO2 than other trees.

3. Judas tree

If you’re a fan of cherry blossom trees for small gardens, the Judas tree is the climate-resilient alternative that’ll keep your garden cool in hot summers. Cercis siliquastrum is the HTA’s exact recommendation.

‘This small, bushy tree will ultimately grow to about 8m and needs a well-drained soil in sun or part shade to perform best,’ says Pippa. ‘Numerous deep purply pink pea-shaped flowers are formed along the older wood before the leaves unfurl, and later, flat purple pods form and provide autumn interest, too.’

Where to buy Judas trees:

• Thompson & Morgan: Pre-order a 125cm+ Judas tree now for dispatch by the end of September.
• Dobies: Judas trees are available in smaller sizes.

Flowering trees are a beautiful and natural way of drought-proofing your garden.

Dawn French’s beautifully decorated greenhouse is serving as a reminder to treat our outside spaces as an extension of the home.

If you’re in need of new greenhouse ideas, I’d highly recommend taking a look at writer, comedian and actor Dawn French’s joyous example, which uses a mix of potted plants and pottery to create a stunning display.

And experts say that decorating your greenhouse is a great way to ensure your personality shines as much in your garden as in your home. Here’s how to do it like Dawn.

Dawn French's decorated greenhouse

This isn’t the first time a celebrity has demonstrated the benefits of decorating a greenhouse. Shirlie Kemp decorated her greenhouse for Christmas and instantly had us obsessed with her twinkling lights and foliage.

Since greenhouse decorating has taken off as a garden trend in its own right, and if you’re in need of some non-seasonal inspiration, Dawn is your girl. Posting on Instagram, Dawn was showing off a new mirror mask, which offered a glimpse into the greenhouse around her.

I spotted plenty of pretty geraniums in pots (Pelargonsjuka is a Scandi gardening trend Dawn is a fan of), with small ornaments and hanging plates nestled in between. It’s a simple idea but one that creates a gorgeous lived-in look.

‘What I like about Dawn French’s greenhouse is its personality. It doesn’t feel as though it has been decorated according to a particular trend or with the aim of looking immaculate. It feels joyful, individual and lived-in, which is exactly what a garden space should be. There’s a real sense that it reflects the person using it,’ says Francesca McEvoy, design expert at Crane Garden Buildings.

‘Plants themselves are obviously a huge part of the look, too. Mixing different heights, trailing plants and interesting pots can make a greenhouse feel wonderfully layered and established rather than overly styled. I particularly like the slightly eclectic approach, where everything doesn’t necessarily match perfectly. Greenhouses lend themselves beautifully to that relaxed, collected-over-time feel.’

How to decorate a greenhouse

If you’re feeling inspired to decorate your greenhouse, the best thing about Dawn’s is that she hasn’t relied on trends to decorate hers. It looks like her own individual expression and interests, which is what the experts say you should apply to yours.

‘We spend a lot of time in our greenhouses, whether that’s tending to plants, admiring our crops or simply relaxing. Greenhouses have become an extension of our home, so it’s natural to decorate them with as much consideration as we do our indoor spaces,’ says Andrew White, sales and marketing Director at Rhino Greenhouses.

‘Adding seating such as a small bench or bistro set, soft furnishings for comfort or ornamental features such as vases, storage containers, lights all go towards giving the greenhouse more life and personality.

‘Not only does decorating a greenhouse make it an even more enjoyable place to spend time, it can help turn it into a multipurpose space, whether that’s relaxing with a drink and book, or hosting a dinner or drinks evening.’

Recently, Fred Sirieix revealed he uses his greenhouse as a hosting and dining space, so if yours is large enough, you can definitely transform it into a multipurpose space. Just remember, it can get quite warm in there!

‘My advice would be to think about how you actually want to feel when you’re in the greenhouse. If you want it to be somewhere you can sit with a cup of tea as well as tend to plants, give yourself a comfortable chair. If colour makes you happy, introduce it through pots, furniture or accessories. And don’t worry too much about making everything coordinate. Some of the most charming garden spaces are the ones that have evolved naturally over time,’ adds Francesca.

Decorate your greenhouse

If you're planning on decorating your greenhouse, add decor you'd have in your own home. This way your greenhouse will feel like an natural extension of your indoor space.

While much of my garden is laid to lawn, it also has trees and hedges planted – and patches of grass that the mower missed. With just the thought of having to find three separate tools to trim, prune and maintain, I was happy to give the Webb WEV20X2MTB4X 40V (2 x 20V) Top-Mounted Brushless Multi-Tool a go to save myself some effort.

The different heights – ground, mid-level and high-level – would usually mean that I'd need to find the best strimmer at the very least. Then there's the hedge trimmers and tree pruners to consider. Each of these tools can take up a lot of space in the shed, take some finding and blow a budget, so having this all wrapped up into one garden tool is certainly appealing.

It's battery-powered and, therefore, cordless, which means that you won't need an extension cable to power it, so I plan to see how this performs too.

Using the Multi Tool

The multi-tool is powered by two 4Ah batteries that slide onto either side of the motor at one end, with the shaft of one of three attachments secured onto the other.

The batteries took fewer than a couple of hours to fully charge. What I liked about the charger is that it isn't a charging dock but a plug with three ports for a cable: 1x USB-A and 2x USB-C. The batteries each take a USB-C cable, which is unlike any tech product I have seen before; I like it, but the jury is out if it saves any space, or saves anything for that matter.

I found the set-up to be a headache, with the instructions not making much sense to me. Fortunately, with the help of my mum, we could figure it out without any written guidance (there's no YouTube video either – fyi).

It looks like a well-balanced piece of kit with a trigger handle positioned in front of the batteries, and a handle that can be positioned anywhere along the shaft to help hold it where you're strimming, cutting or pruning. For each task, the lower shaft will slot into the upper shaft; how it feels to hold will depend on the attachment secured to the lower shaft. For example, the hedge trimmer is longer than the strimmer, which is more circular, so the weight distribution will need adjusting for comfort and performance.

Weight-wise, the hedge cutter is the heaviest at 4.85kg with both batteries in situ, whereas the pole saw is 4.6kg and the line trimmer is 4.2kg.

To operate, hold down the button on the battery to turn it on, then press the safety button before applying pressure to the trigger to start it up. I started it up before trying to trim or cut anything to check that I was comfortable with the handle positioning, because it is heavy.

Line trimmer

Our robot lawn mower cuts the majority of the lawn, but it doesn't have the turning circle to get up close to the raised vegetable patch tucked between the boundary fence and flower border, so the line trimmer attachment was a welcome tool.

It was quick to cut the grass back, and it only took a couple of passes before all the longer lengths of grass were level with the rest of the lawn. I held the trimmer by the trigger handle with one hand, and the removable telescopic handle with the other on the upper shaft, which was comfortable and well balanced.

I then turned my attention to the hedge in our front garden. I am burdened by a lilac tree that keeps growing in the hedge, despite my constant efforts to remove the roots. The tree was towering over the box hedging so there was only one thing for it; hedge cutter.

To attach, I removed the lower shaft of the trimmer from the upper shaft, and slotted in the lower shaft of the hedge cutter. It was immediately obvious that I needed to move the telescopic handle to the lower shaft to help distribute the weight - with a blade length of 420mm, the hedge cutter was making the tool feel extremely unbalanced.

Releasing the screw nut and unclipping the handle had a bit of a knack to it. The bit behind the handle needed to be folded underneath and behind it, before securing again with the screw nut. It won't be secure otherwise.

Hedge cutting

I found this multi-tool to be really heavy to lift and slide across the top of the hedge. I also struggled to cut back the side of the hedge with it.

Still, to my relief, it sliced through the tree hedge like butter. The small branches were cut clean, and any leaves caught up in the action were obliterated.

Following the same procedure of switching-up the lower shaft, I secured the pole saw. It was our unruly Hazel tree that was to get some maintenance treatment next.

Check that the teeth on the saw are not slack and, for prolong spells of use, you'll need to add chainsaw oil, like this Castrol Garden Chain Oil (£13.09 from Amazon), to the 120ml oil tank to keep the chain lubricated.

Pole saw

Again, it sliced through thicker tree branches with no sweat. I had the handle positioned on the lower shaft whilst I had my hand on the trigger at the other end of the tool for comfortable positioning.

I found it to be long enough to reach higher branches from the ground, and it made the job of tree pruning lighter work because it required little effort on my part.

The Webb WEV20X2MTB4X 40V Top-Mounted Brushless Multi-Tool also comes with a brushcutter attachment which fits onto the line trimmer. I do not have a dense patch of weeds, or a suitable space, to try this out but going by the performance of the other attachments I'm sure that it'll excel.

Noise levels were consistently loud on all attachments; it bounced around 90dB on the decibel meter reading app downloaded to my phone which is equivalent to a petrol lawn mower.

Verdict? Overall the performance of this kit was brilliant with all grass, hedging and trees cut as intended. That said, I found it tricky to set up and you'll need to find space in the shed to carefully store the separate shaft attachments.

If you don't already own a strimmer, hedge cutter, brush cutter and pole saw, and you have a need for owning all four of these tools, then it'll be worth the investment for sure. It costs £249.99 which is not loads more than what a strimmer, hedge cutter and saw would cost if you were to buy them individually, so it'll save you money.

Alternatively, just owning one tool for what you need, such as a line trimmer, may be a more viable option for your gardening needs.

Alternatives

If a multi tool isn't quite what you're looking for, we have a few alternatives you can shop.

Will you be making the switch to a multi tool? Or do you prefer to have separate tools for all the gardening jobs? Let us know.

Water features have been one of the biggest garden trends for summer this year, but while summer is coming to an end, our love for this relaxing garden feature is not. And Monty Don’s tranquillity pond is the latest piece of inspiration that I can’t get enough of.

Celebrities have provided no shortage of water feature ideas this summer, so if you’ve been wanting to learn how to make a water feature, Instagram really has proved itself as a hotspot for how-tos and DIY inspiration.

But while the flavour of the month has centred on solar fountains, Monty’s tranquillity pond is a little more peaceful, and garden experts say it’s a brilliant idea if you want to make your garden more relaxing.

It was only recently that I spotted Martin and Shirlie Kemp’s stunning water feature and wondered if it was the best celebrity example of the summer. But having now seen Monty’s, I think he’s giving them a run for their money.

Positioned in between two flower beds in the Paradise Garden, Monty’s water feature is simply breathtaking. It’s simple in design, yet could equally have stepped out of a fairy tale.

‘It doesn’t feel as though a water feature has simply been dropped into the garden. It sits within the planting, so the edges feel softened and the pond becomes part of the landscape,' comments Blanca Sanchez, director of Halo Design Interiors.. 'I much prefer a pond where plants come close to the water and slightly blur its outline to one surrounded by a hard border because it just makes it feel a bit too contained. Monty’s has an established quality where you notice the water, but you also feel as though it belongs where it is.'

Why you should consider a tranquillity pond

If you’ve been thinking about putting your garden pond ideas into practice, I’m pleased to tell you that tranquillity ponds offer several benefits, from being wildlife-friendly to offering sensory benefits to you and your household.

‘Listening to moving water can lower cortisol levels and calm your nervous system, and trickling water can act as a natural sound barrier against traffic noise or noise from neighbours. Watching the ripples of the water can also encourage mindfulness,’ says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture.

‘Having any kind of pond in your garden will encourage wildlife like birds and frogs to visit the area for food and drinking. As the water evaporates, it cools hot areas and adds humidity to the garden, which can stop the soil of nearby plants from drying out.

Plus, when positioned in front of your flower beds, as Monty has done, you get a beautiful reflection of your flowers. Just think of it as double the blooms! This can even be achieved with a well-positioned micro pond, making this an equally effective small garden idea, too.

How to DIY a tranquillity pond

Of course, if you want to add a tranquillity pond to your garden, you can always buy one. I’ve seen a pond similar to Monty’s for £109 at B&Q. However, if you love DIY products, experts say it is possible to make your own.

‘You can easily create a mini-pond using a container, and line the container with a pond liner if it is not watertight. Add a layer of gravel or rocks to the container, using stones or logs to create varying depths or points where wildlife can climb in and out,’ says Richard.

'When filling a pond, it is best to use rainwater to avoid the chemicals used to treat tapwater. After the pond is full, you can then add plants around it, or include a pump or filter to make the water trickle.'

Get the look

Has Monty won you over with his simple yet serene tranquillity pond?

Did you know that groundcover hydrangeas exist? I didn’t – but now I’m convinced that they’re the perfect summer-autumn transition shrub, with a ton of benefits.

We’re fast approaching the ideal time to plant hydrangeas, but rather than go for a standard shrub, my attention is on groundcover hydrangeas – Hydrangea paniculata ‘Groundbreaker®’, specifically. It's available in three colours (you can order each 'Groundbreaker' variety in a 14cm pot from QVC), and it flowers for a really long time, keeping the garden interesting when other flowering plants begin to fade.

Here’s why groundcover hydrangeas are so high on my planting list right now.

Hydrangea paniculata ‘Groundbreaker®’ is the world’s first groundcover panicle hydrangea, and it flowers for over 100 days (from July to November). That means you’ll enjoy flowers when the rest of the garden is winding down for the year – and reap a ton of other benefits for your garden in the process.

I’m a huge fan of flowering groundcover plants, because they’re not just a pretty face: they help to suppress weeds, too, and even conserve soil moisture so you can water your garden borders less often. 'Groundbreaker' is low-maintenance, too.

‘It is the sort of plant that works hard without expecting its owner to do the same,’ say creators of Hydrangea paniculata ‘Groundbreaker®’.

‘Groundcover hydrangeas are a fantastic choice if you want to add colour, structure and plenty of interest to an area of the garden that needs a little more impact,’ says Ross Dyke, horticulturist, founder of Get Children Growing, and host of The Plant Pod.

''Groundbreaker' can be used along pathways, beneath trees and shrubs, at the front of borders or to knit different areas of planting together. Its naturally low habit means there's less bare earth on show and less space for opportunistic weeds.'

Hydrangea paniculata ‘Ruby’ (which you can order in a range of sizes from Thompson & Morgan) was awarded second place in the RHS Chelsea Plant of the Year 2026, thanks to its garden performance, innovation and appeal to UK gardeners. The flowers transition from white to a rich red later in the summer.

If you prefer a more subtle garden colour scheme, ‘Groundbreaker Blush’ is just as pretty – its flowers just turn a more delicate shade of pink-red, instead. You can buy a 14cm pot of Hydrangea paniculata ‘Groundbreaker Blush’ from YouGarden.

‘Greeny’ is a little bit different – it produces fresh green blooms that retain their colour. It's available in a 14cm pot from Crocus, or in larger sizes at Thompson & Morgan.

‘For us here in Britain, the best time to plant groundcover hydrangeas is general in the spring or autumn, because the soil is moist and temperatures are milder,’ says Ross. ‘However, container-grown plants can usually be planted at other times of the year, provided the ground isn’t frozen, waterlogged or excessively dry.’

Ross says that groundcover hydrangeas look really good in containers, too – so if you’re looking for hydrangeas varieties for pots, ‘Groundbreaker’ is the perfect candidate.

Hydrangea care kit

Groundcover hydrangeas are really low-maintenance, but a few garden staples will give them the support they need to thrive.

Who knew groundcover hydrangeas were a thing? I think we'll be seeing a lot more of them in the future.

It's all too easy to put off that list of garden chores that's been sitting on your to-do list, but experts say there are certain garden maintenance jobs to tackle before neighbours start complaining. Let's face it, your garden is unlikely to suffer if you skip a weekend of weeding or put off pruning, but leaving certain jobs unchecked can quickly lead to problems that spill beyond your own boundaries.

In fact, research from Confused.com found that 34% of neighbourly disputes are reported during the summer months, making it the season when tensions are likely to flare. And while late-night parties and noisy children are often to blame for much of the friction, overgrown gardens and general untidiness are also common culprits.

Fortunately, a little preventative maintenance goes a long way. If you've already considered the garden features most likely to spark neighbour disputes, the next step is to make sure your outdoor space is properly maintained throughout the year. These are the jobs experts say are worth prioritising.

1. Prune boundary trees and hedges before they become an issue

Experts agree that one of the first garden maintenance jobs to tackle before neighbours start complaining is to keep any boundary hedges, trees and climbers under control.

'Trees, hedges and climbing plants can grow surprisingly quickly during the warmer months,' explains Luke Dejahang, gardening expert at Crown Pavilions. 'If they're allowed to extend beyond your boundary, they can block light, damage fences or overhang into a neighbour's garden, which is one of the most common causes of garden-related disputes.'

To avoid any complaints, regular pruning keeps plants healthy while helping to keep them within your own boundary, preventing hedges and trees from becoming a source of friction between neighbours. It can also help to prevent hedges or trees from blocking light in neighbours' gardens -another common frustration between households.

Matthew Harwood, home insurance expert at Confused.com, adds that if a hedge or tree is on your property, you're generally responsible for keeping it from encroaching onto neighbouring land.

'Additionally, root damage from overgrown trees is a subsidence risk, particularly if planted too close to a building,' he warns. 'Subsidence claims are among the more costly and disruptive claims a homeowner can make.'

2. Clear fallen fruit and leaf build-up

Fallen leaves or fruit may not feel like a priority, but keeping on top of them helps prevent unnecessary build-up in your own garden. And if your neighbour's tree is dropping leaves in your garden too, or your neighbours aren't picking up fruit from their tree windfall, it's worth knowing the best way to manage the build-up before it becomes an issue.

'If fruit is left to rot it can quickly become a magnet for rats, mice, wasps and other pests, explains Matthew. 'Once an infestation takes hold, it can easily spread to a neighbouring property. This can quickly turn an untidy garden into a source of friction between neighbours.'

Matthew also points out that pest infestations are generally not covered under standard buildings or contents insurance, since they're classed as a maintenance issue.

'Raking up leaves regularly and clearing fallen fruit from beneath trees removes the food source before it becomes a problem. It's a small job, and doing it little and often is far easier than dealing with a build-up at the end of the season,' he says.

3. Maintain compost bins properly

A compost bin can be a great addition to your garden, but only if it's well-maintained.

'A compost bin should be an asset to your garden, not a nuisance to everyone around it,' says Luke. 'If it's poorly maintained, it can produce unpleasant odours or attract vermin, particularly during warmer weather.'

Echoing this, Matthew recommends using a bin with a secure, well-fitted lid rather than an open heap can help prevent attracting pests. 'Positioning it away from a shared boundary, where practical, also helps keep any lingering odour away from neighbouring properties,' he says.

To keep on top of maintenance, it's worth knowing what not to put in a compost bin - like meat and dairy, or pet faeces - as well as turning it regularly to help it break down evenly to avoid any problems for next-door neighbours.

4. Keep gutters and drains clear

Cleaning gutters and drains might not be on your radar when it's warm and sunny, but experts say it's another one of the garden maintenance jobs to tackle before neighbours start complaining.

'Blocked gutters and drains are seasonal jobs that are easy to put off, but the consequences of ignoring them rarely stay confined to your own property,' says Matthew. 'Once a gutter overflows, water can escape down onto a neighbour's side of the fence, seep into a shared wall, or gather against a boundary and cause damp, staining, or in extreme cases, structural damage over time.'

Matthew recommends clearing them twice a year, ideally during the autumn and winter, and checking that downpipes are directing water into your own drainage rather than towards a neighbour's garden.

5. Repairing loose fencing or trellis

Fences and trellis naturally weaken over time, especially after periods of strong winds or heavy rain.

'Carrying out small repairs early is usually far easier and more affordable than dealing with the consequences after something has failed,' says Luke.

Matthew adds that knowing who a fence belongs to is often a source of confusion between neighbours. It's worth establishing which boundary features are yours to maintain, as well as your insurance policy.

'Storm damage to garden structures like fences is often covered under buildings insurance. Yet, many policies exclude fences, gates, and hedges,' he says. 'If a poorly maintained fence damages a neighbouring property, you could be held liable for the repair costs under general negligence principles.'

6. Keep invasive plants and weeds under control

Not all plants remain where you put them. There are some invasive plants to avoid planting in your garden, particularly as they can spread surprisingly quickly below ground, making it tricky to remove if they spread into your neighbours garden.

'Fast-spreading plants such as bamboo and other vigorous species can quickly become difficult to manage if they're left unchecked. Once they spread beyond your boundary, they can be costly to remove and are a common source of neighbour complaints.' warns Luke.

Installing root barriers where appropriate and regularly checking plants for new growth can help prevent problems before they become an issue.

Weeds are another issue that homeowners can often underestimate. 'Plants that are allowed to flower and set seed can easily spread into neighbouring flowerbeds and lawns, creating extra work for those living next door,' adds Luke.

Regular weeding can help to keep your garden under control, while preventing problems from spreading beyond your boundary.

7. Keep paths, drives and access routes clear

If your garden borders a shared path, driveway or access route, don't overlook the importance of keeping it clear, warns Luke.

'Overgrown shrubs and plants can make shared spaces more difficult to use, reduce visibility and even create trip hazards,' he says. Keeping these areas clear helps maintain good access while showing consideration for neighbours and visitors alike.'

A quick trim every few weeks during growing season is usually enough to stop paths becoming obstructed and helps keep your garden looking well-cared for.

Garden maintenance essentials

A little routine garden maintenance goes a long way, especially when it comes to preventing neighbour disputes. Checking boundaries, clearing debris and carrying out minor repairs is far easier than dealing with complaints, costly repairs or damaged relationships further down the line.

Alan Titchmarsh just revealed one of his favourite trellis colours, and it’s one that I’ve always overlooked – until now.

On last week’s episode of Gardening With Alan Titchmarsh, the gardener, author and broadcaster transformed a dull corner of the garden into a beautiful retreat. The star? The freshly stained sage green trellis against the brick wall. I’m all for a beautiful garden trellis idea, but I wasn’t expecting green paint to make such an impact.

Here’s why Alan loves sage green on a trellis – and the exact shade of sage green he went for.

Alan set about screening a sheltered corner of his garden from the view of an overlooking new build in the recent YouTube episode of Gardening With Alan Titchmarsh, and he used one of the most popular garden screening ideas to do it: a trellis.

‘The obvious way of screening this building that overlooks us is with trellis,’ he said in the video. ‘What it will also give me is the opportunity to plant climbers up there so it won’t just be a latticework of timber – it’ll be foliage and flowers, and it’ll sort of embrace this corner, giving it a big hug.’

It’s the colour that Alan stains the trellis that impressed me the most. The starring shade was Protek Wood Stain and Protect in Pale Sage, which you can order from Amazon, and it looked beautiful against the brick wall behind it.

‘I’ve chosen a colour here called Pale Sage, which I think is wonderfully complementary to old brickwork like this, and also to plants,’ Alan said.

‘Any colour will look good on Pale Sage, a sort of soft green like this. If you get a rather lurid green, then it sort of governs the things you can climb up it – but something like Pale Sage will cope with any kind of flower colour on it.’

Plus, if you’re growing a deciduous climber along your trellis and it becomes bare in the winter, sage green keeps that touch of greenery in your garden all year round.

‘In winter, of course, unless your climber’s evergreen, all you’re going to see is trellis – so it’s got to have something which is pleasant to look at with no flower and no leaf on it at all,’ Alan explained.

'Protek Wood Stain and Protect in ‘Pale Sage’ works perfectly against the red brick wall and neutral planting,' says Becky Rackstraw, director at Protek Products. 'As echoed by Alan, to get the best results, you'll need to choose a high-quality exterior woodcare product and give the trellis a few thorough coats so that it is well covered and protected for years to come.

'It’s important to carefully consider the selected colour as part of the overall garden scheme, so that it looks really good over the winter period when the planting dies down and the structure is revealed to enhance and lift the garden as a colourful feature.'

RHS award-winning garden designer Zoe Claymore agrees that sage green is a brilliant choice for a trellis.

‘Green is a great natural foil to put plants against,’ she says. ‘Stain, though, don't paint it, for better longevity and lower maintenance.

‘I'm also bored of the off black/grey we see a lot – it's too harsh and grey-based, which is the last thing I want to look at when there is already too much concrete and grey around us.’

The sage green really does make Alan's hydrangea (pictured above) pop, and when the star jasmine flowers emerge, they'll complement the backdrop beautifully. You can order a star jasmine plant from Gardening Express.

Alan used a lattice trellis like this Forest Garden Rosemore Lattice, which you can buy at Robert Dyas.

‘You get what you pay for,' he said. 'Go for something sturdy – it’ll last longer than cheaper stuff.’

Get the look

Would you consider a sage green trellis?

This summer’s record-breaking temperatures have played havoc with gardens across the country. In my garden, the hot sun and a lack of water have left many of the plants and flowers scorched and wilted, and my once-lush grass now looks more like straw.

But while I’m tempted to rush in and cut everything back that looks dead or dying, advice from the experts is not to be too hasty when it comes to how to revive a frazzled garden after a long hot summer like this. Patience is the key, as there are plenty of plants that will bounce back to health after a heatwave once the weather starts to get cooler.

‘A heat-damaged garden doesn’t need to be written off,’ says Matt J Adams, founder and lead gardener at The Relentless Gardener. ‘Concentrate on the lawn, give plants the chance to recover, replace what genuinely hasn’t survived and use feeding, smart watering and better soil preparation to rebuild its health. With a little work in September, a garden that looked tired at the end of summer can be in a much stronger position heading into winter.’

1. Don’t rush to cut back scorched plants

‘Heat-stressed borders don’t necessarily need a complete overhaul,’ says Matt. ‘Remove genuinely dead material but leave healthy green foliage in place, as the plant can still use it to recover.’

‘Removing foliage too quickly could place your plants under more pressure when they may just need time to recover as temperatures return to normal,’ agrees David Denyer, florist and gardening expert at eflorist. ‘Before reaching for the secateurs, I’d recommend waiting and looking for new shoots, green stems or healthy buds that show signs of new life. For woody plants, gently scratching the surface of a stem for signs of green underneath should indicate whether it’s still alive.’

‘After a heatwave, it can be tempting to remove any scorched leaves from plants straight away, but I would always advise to wait before pruning,’ adds Craig Wilson, co-founder and gardening expert at Gardeners Dream. ‘The plant will already be weak and the dead leaves can actually prevent the plant from being damaged further by shading it from more sunlight.’

‘Once the weather returns to cooler temperatures, or new growth begins to appear on the plant, then you can carefully prune the dead, crispy leaves by cutting from the base of the stem.’

2. Deadhead as the weather gets cooler

‘Similar to pruning scorched leaves, wait until temperatures drop a little before deadheading your plants to avoid stressing the plant even more,’ says Craig. ‘To remove any dying flowers, simply use a sharp pair of secateurs and cut down to the base of the stem or the closest leaf node for a clean finish.’

‘Deadheading faded blooms is an important step to encourage further flowering and help plants prepare for their next blooming season,' says Chris Bonnet, founder of Gardening Express. 'Just make sure not to remove any developing buds, although these may be less common following prolonged periods of heat.'

3. Take time to repair a sun-scorched lawn

‘After a period of intense summer heat, the lawn can be one of the first areas of the garden to show signs of stress,’ says Peter Chaloner, Managing Director of Cobra. ‘Rather than trying to fix everything at once, late summer and early autumn are a good opportunity to gradually bring the lawn back into shape with three simple lawn care jobs: mowing, scarifying and aerating.’

‘Start with the mower, but don’t be tempted to scalp a heat-stressed lawn. If the grass has turned brown, it may simply have gone dormant and will begin to recover as temperatures fall and moisture returns. Keep the mower blades sharp and avoid removing too much growth in a single cut.’

‘Once the lawn has recovered enough to be actively growing, scarifying can make a significant difference. Removing dead grass, moss and other organic material build-up will allow grass to breathe and create better conditions for new growth. Don’t be alarmed if the lawn looks worse immediately afterwards – scarifying is a renovation job, and it can leave the surface looking quite bare before it starts to recover.’

‘Aerating is the next step, particularly if the ground has become hard or compacted after prolonged dry weather. Using a lawn aerator, such as this Electric Powered Scarifier (£109.99, Corba), to create holes in the surface helps open up the soil and improves the movement of water and air around the roots. Pay particular attention to areas that receive a lot of foot traffic, as these are often the first places to become compacted. The key is not to expect a tired lawn to recover overnight. Give it the right conditions and tackle the work in stages.’

4. Don’t immediately reach for the fertiliser

‘Plants that have been affected by the heat are focusing attention on survival and recovery over new growth, so using fertiliser too soon could encourage growth before they are ready to support it,’ says David. ‘It’s better to concentrate on getting your soil back into good condition and waiting for signs of fresh growth before applying a suitable general-purpose feed.’

‘Plants that are still actively growing and flowering will continue to need nutrients, particularly if they have spent the summer producing flowers, or if they are next to large shrubs or tress,’ says Matt. ‘For flowering plants, I use Blooms Booster All-Purpose Liquid Plant Feed with Seaweed, from £9.50, at The Relentless Gardener, as part of my feeding routine once a month at the start of the month. Fertiliser with seaweed has a higher potassium formulation and nutrients to support flowering, making it a useful feed for helping plants maintain healthy growth and colour through the later part of the growing season.’

5. Replenish beds and borders gradually

‘Compacted soil won’t allow for water to penetrate down into roots, and it may just run off the surface instead. If you notice this in garden flower beds and borders, try gently loosening the top layer around plants with a hand fork, as well as adding some garden compost to improve soil structure and its ability to retain moisture,’ advises David.

‘If you’re looking to add colour to the garden and fill any gaps ready for September and the autumn months, you can start planting autumn bulbs such as colchicums and autumn crocuses now,’ says Chris. ‘These will help brighten up a garden that may be looking a little tired after the hot and dry summer.’

‘And you can also dig out spent annuals now and replace them with fresh plants that will provide colour throughout the autumn,’ adds Chris.

6. Give container plants some extra TLC

'Don’t forget containers, which can suffer particularly badly during hot weather because they dry out much faster than garden soil,’ says Matt. ‘Remove plants that have completely finished, refresh exhausted compost where necessary and check that drainage holes are clear. Give plants a thorough watering when they need it, but don’t leave pots sitting in water.’

'Be sure to water container plants slowly to allow the moisture to work all the way down and consider moving any pots that look particularly vulnerable away from direct sunlight to a shady or sheltered spot of your garden,' advises David.

7. Start preparing your garden for next summer

‘Finally, it’s important to use what you’ve learnt from the heatwave,’ says Matt. ‘If particular areas of the lawn repeatedly turned brown this summer or certain plants struggled despite being watered, make a note of them.’

‘If there are areas in the flower beds that dry out quicker in summer, apply 1-2 inches of home-made compost (grass clippings, aeration plugs work a treat, or well-rotted farmyard manure). This will help protect the dormant plants over winter. And it will also help introduce much-needed organic matter into the dry soil below for next year as the worms recycle it free of charge.’

‘Autumn is an excellent time to improve the soil, repair the lawn and rethink planting so the garden is better prepared for the next period of hot, dry weather,’ adds Matt.

‘Take the UK heatwaves as an opportunity to learn from your garden and make a note of the plants and areas that coped well this summer, as opposed to those that struggled,’ agrees David.

‘Mediterranean-style plants and varieties with silver or grey-green foliage can be particularly useful in hot, sunny areas. You don’t need to completely redesign your garden, but gradually choosing plants better suited to hotter, drier conditions can make it much more resilient when the next heatwave arrives.’

So, not rushing in is the advice from the experts. Take it easy with late summer garden care and your garden will bounce back in time for next year.

If hydrangeas are a resident in your garden, there’s one task you should do before the end of the month to multiply your collection – for free.

The task in question? Taking hydrangea cuttings. It’s the prime time to take semi-ripe cuttings, specifically, which are generally pieces of stem with a woody base and a soft green tip. According to experts, August is the perfect month to do it – but since we’re nearing the bank holiday, we’re running out of time.

Here’s why it’s so important to take hydrangea cuttings before August ends – and a few tips on achieving the best results, so that you can double, triple, or even quadruple your garden’s hydrangea collection without spending a penny.

What you'll need

Why should I take hydrangea cuttings before August ends?

The best time to take hydrangea cuttings very much depends on the type of cutting you’re taking. Softwood, semi-ripe and hardwood cuttings are the big three – but at this time of the year, semi-ripe cuttings are the ones you’ll be working with.

‘You should take hydrangea cuttings before August ends because the stems are at just the right stage,’ explains Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

‘They are soft enough at the tip to root well but starting to firm up at the base so they don’t rot as easily.’

So, semi-ripe cuttings taken this month are better equipped to survive the propagating process. Some rooting hormone powder like Westland's Organic Rooting Powder from Amazon can boost your success rate, too.

‘Taking them now gives the plants enough time to develop roots and settle before winter, whereas cuttings taken later in autumn are more likely to struggle in cold, damp conditions,’ Julian adds.

Of course, later in the year, you could take hardwood cuttings from your hydrangeas instead – but you’ll need to wait until winter, and work harder to maintain the best conditions for them to root and grow on.

How to take semi-ripe cuttings from hydrangeas in August

Taking semi-ripe cuttings from your plants is easier than it sounds – and so are the propagating steps that follow. To start with, you’ll need to make sure you’re snipping off the right part of the plant.

‘Choose healthy, non-flowering shoots about 10-15cm long, with at least two sets of leaves below the top set,’ advises Julian.

‘Cut just below a leaf node with clean secateurs, strip off the lower leaves, and cut the remaining leaves in half to reduce water loss.’

A sharp pair of bypass secateurs like the WOLF-Garten Bypass Secateurs from Amazon are best for easy, clean cuts. As Julian mentioned, you’ll need to make sure you’ve cleaned your garden tools properly, too.

It's crucial that you choose stems with no flowering shoots.

'You are aiming to select healthy stems from this year's growth, which have no flowers or buds on so that they will direct all their energy into root production rather than trying to support blooms,' says Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation.

You'll also need to watch out for any summer damage and, ideally, take the cuttings early in the morning.

'When selecting cuttings from your hydrangea after such long periods of hot, dry weather, be careful to avoid any sun-scorched branches, as intense heat can kill delicate cells within stems which will prevent them forming new roots,' warns Lucie.

Then, you can pot your cuttings up.

‘Insert each cutting into a small pot of gritty, well-drained compost, firm it in well and water straight away,’ says Julian. ‘Keep them in a bright spot out of direct sun, ideally in a propagator or under a clear cover, until rooted, which usually takes around six weeks.’

You can buy unheated propagators like this EarlyGrow Medium Propagator from B&Q.

It’s as simple as that! Tick this task off your list before the August bank holiday ends to grow free hydrangeas that you can plant up in your own garden or gift to friends and family.

Is a neighbour’s hedge overshadowing your garden? And is it over two metres tall? You’re probably wondering whether you can ask them to cut it down – and what to do if they don’t.

The rules around whether or not you can cut your neighbour’s hedge are one thing, but if you’re hoping that they’ll do it themselves, there are a few steps you can take to make that happen. You’ll just need to go the right way about it – and make their hedge fits the right criteria.

I spoke to the legal experts to find out where you stand.

Hedges are one of those garden features that can cause neighbour disputes because they can infringe on a space without physically entering the bounds of that space. They’re often to blame for blocking sunlight from your garden, for example – and if your neighbour’s hedge is over two metres tall, you’re probably wondering whether you can make them cut it down.

The answer isn’t exactly straightforward. You’ll need to make it’s the right type of hedge, for one – because deciduous hedges (the ones that lose their leaves during the colder months) are trickier to bring down with help from your local authority.

‘The relevant law is the high hedges legislation under Part 8 of the Anti-social Behaviour Act 2003, but it only applies to a specific type of hedge: two or more trees or shrubs, mostly evergreen or semi-evergreen, over two metres tall, and acting as a barrier to light or access,’ explains Andrew Boast, founder of SAM Conveyancing.

So, what happens if your neighbour’s hedge (or hedges) meet that criteria? First, as with any neighbour's garden habit that annoys you, it’s best to speak to your neighbour directly and try to come to a mutual agreement.

‘The local authority will generally expect reasonable attempts to have been made to resolve matters before accepting a high hedge complain,’ says Sarah Dodd, founder and CEO of Tree Law Solicitors. ‘If the hedge is not evergreen or mostly evergreen, or does not fall within the high hedge regime, it can be much more difficult to compel work simply because of its height.’

If that fails, you can report the issue to your local authority.

‘In that situation, you can ask the local authority to assess the impact the hedge is having on the reasonable enjoyment of your property, including the extent to which it is blocking light,’ advises Sarah.

Evidence, though, is key, and as Andrew explains, you’ll need to ‘Keep a record of everything, along with a photograph of the hedge at different times of year, because if the case does end up in front of the council, you’ll need evidence that you’ve made an actual effort before escalating.’

Sarah also notes that there are other reasons a local authority might be able to intervene. If your neighbour’s tree is damaging your fence, for example, it’s worth gathering structural evidence.

‘The council will then review and send someone out to assess the hedge against those legal criteria and decide whether it's unreasonably affecting your home or garden,’ says Andrew.

‘If they agree with you, they’ll issue a remedial notice telling your neighbour what height to bring the hedge down to and by when. The council can’t order it removed entirely or cut below two metres, only reduced enough to fix the specific problem it's causing.’

Andrew also explained that your neighbour could be fined up to £1,000 for ignoring a remedial notice – and after persistent ignorance, the council could even enter the land, bill your neighbour and complete the work themselves.

What about deciduous hedges?

We’ve already established that deciduous hedges aren’t covered under Part 8 of the Anti-social Behaviour Act 2003, but Andrew says that doesn’t mean you can’t do anything about an enormous deciduous hedge like beech or hawthorn.

‘If your neighbour’s hedge is deciduous, you're looking at common law nuisance rather than the high hedges route, which is a different and often slower conversation,’ he explains.

Above all else, remember that it’s an offence to prune your neighbour’s tree on their side of the fence – and the same applies to hedges.

‘It's also worth knowing that trespass isn't limited to physical entry, and leaning over the boundary or letting a ladder overhang into their garden counts as trespassing into their airspace, even if you never actually step onto their land,’ Andrew adds.

If the hedge is entering the bounds of your garden and you do want to trim it yourself, it’s worth notifying your neighbour first, and making sure that any cuttings are offered back to your neighbour before you throw them in the bin (since it’s still their property!).

Hedge pruning essentials

If the branches fall on your side of the fence (and you offer the cuttings back!).

So, if your neighbour's hedge meets the above criteria, there are steps you can take to have it trimmed.

The heatwaves we've had this summer have warmed up the soil perfectly; this means any bulbs you plant will get nicely bedded in before the cooler weather appears. It may seem odd to plant in August, but it's a good time to plant perennials too if you want a garden blooming with colour in autumn and winter.

If you're in the North of England or Scotland, planting now will make sure you keep ahead of the earlier first frosts. But in general, it's best to focus on planting autumn-flowering varieties that will quickly bloom in a few weeks or months or planting smaller bulbs which are less fussy about timings and will benefit from the warmer soil.

I've asked our garden experts for their top tips on which bulbs in particular will flourish if planted now and start filling your garden with colour from as early as September and November.

1. Nerines

'Nerines, particularly Nerine bowdenii, appreciate early planting in a warm, sunny position where their roots can settle before cooler weather arrives,' suggests Julian Palpramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

The name nerine means sea nymph or daughter of Nereus from Greek mythology, and the plant is a striking lily like flower that comes in pink and white. They're ideal for some autumnal colour.

'Plant the bulbs in a warm, sunny location, ideally against a south or west facing wall,' says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture. 'The neck of each bulb should stay exposed above the surface of the soil, and space the bulbs around 15cm apart. Water thoroughly immediately after planting, and keep the area clear of other plants so the nerines receive maximum summer heat.'

There are two colours to choose from, you can buy the pink bowdenii Amandi - Guernsey Lily from £13.99 for a pack of three bulbs, Amazon.

For a more purist look pick the white bowdenii Alba is priced from £14.99 for five bulbs, Thompson & Morgan.

2. Cyclamen

'Cyclamen hederifolium is another August favourite, thriving in dry shade beneath trees and shrubs and offering elegant flowers just as summer begins to fade,' says Julian.

Coming in pink, white and magenta, cyclamen can be every long lasting and flower during the cooler months mainly, so autumn through to spring.

You can buy cyclamen coum 13/15cm, for £9.99 for a pack of five bulbs, J. Parker. This variety is ideal for your patio pots and containers and has bell shaped flowers that are pale pink to dark magenta.

For a brighter pink try the cyclamen hederifolium variety, from £9.99 for two bulbs, Suttons. They are great for border coverage and will give you flowers from autumn.

3. Autumn daffodils

Autumn daffodils aren't the same as 'normal' ones. Richard explains, 'True autumn daffodils can be planted in August, but not spring-flowering daffodils.'

The variety you need is called sternbergia; they belong to the daffodil family. 'With their lustrous blooms of golden yellow and glossy, dark green, slender leaves, sternbergia are the perfect way to add a flash of colour into your autumn garden,' says Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation.

According to Richard, the best spot has well-draining soil and full sun. 'Dig a hole that is three times the depth of the bulb. Place the bulb in the hole with the pointed end facing upwards and the flat root end facing down. Space bulbs apart by a few inches, and water in well after planting.'

You can buy sternbergia from J. Parkers, £7.99 for a pack of 10 bulbs.

4. Autumn crocus

'By planting autumn crocus into your garden in August means the corms get sufficient time to grow roots and become established so that they can flower in the same year,' explains Lucie.

'The corms should be planted in free draining soil in dappled shade, and although they can be planted in pots these are less likely to come back compared to plants in the ground,' advises Richard. 'Dig a hole around 10cm deep, and plant the corms 15cm apart, ensuring that you are wearing gloves as the corms can be poisonous.'

J.Parkers have a lovely autumn mixed pack of 25 corms for £6.99. The colours are pretty pale to deep lilacs and whites and they will multiply year on year. Plant them in your beds, borders and rockeries for a lovely display. For a deep vibrant shade consider this saffron variety, four bulbs for £13.07, Amazon.

5. Bearded iris

Bearded irises are becoming quite a trend, and it's easy to see why with their beautiful ruffles and colour schemes.

Lucie agrees, 'Adding bearded Iris into your garden provides you with some glamorous, rich coloured blooms from May to June when many spring flowers are finishing, and summer blooms are just starting.'

According to Lucie between June and October is the best time to plant them, and August is potentially the warmest month. 'The warm soil and sunny days help both the roots to establish and the tops of the rhizomes to bake and set flower buds needed for next year's blooms. Before planting the rhizomes check how plump or dry they are - if they are dry and shriveled then it's best to soak them for about 30 mins before planting but if they feel plump and firm this step can be missed,' says Lucie.

Lucie recommends Iris pumila Bluebeard's Ghost, from £3.99 for a one first grade loose root, J.Parkers. It has white petals, sturdy stems and sword-like foliage, it grows to around 30cm in height.

For total drama opt for Black Dragon with its deep purple petals, one rhizome for £7.99, Crocus.

Essentials for August bulb planting

Now is the ideal time to get some bulbs in the ground whilst it's still warm, which will you choose from our expert picks?

Despite appearances, your lawn probably isn't dead, just very dehydrated.

Grass is extremely hardy, and with some consistent rainfall, your lawn should start to bounce back and prove that your grass isn't dead; however, making the most of every inch of rain is essential.

'Most lawns will show signs of green regrowth within 10 to 14 days of consistent rainfall or watering,' says Jonathan Davis, a grass expert at Lawnsmith. 'When moisture is low, grass focuses its energy on protecting its root system, so this is why its colour drains. Once the lawn has had significant hydration, the turf will quickly regain its flourishing green appearance.'

Rainfall is finally forecast for most parts of the UK over the next week. But if you want to make the most of the wet weather, this is what you need to do.

1. Move your furniture

'Grass will typically begin to recover within one to three weeks after drought conditions ease, although more severe drought can mean recovery takes four to eight weeks,' says Michael Dumanski, landscaping expert at North Hill Gardens.

However, even with heavy rainfall, the grass will only start to recover if the soil is absorbing the water. Your garden furniture is one of the main culprits in stopping this.

Garden furniture is heavy, which compacts the soil and stops it from absorbing rainwater efficiently – not ideal when the grass is parched.

To make matters worse, garden furniture can also divert water – leaving some patches of grass bone-dry, and others flooded – or can block water from reaching the ground altogether.

To ensure your lawn can absorb as much water as possible and give it the best chance of recovery, you must move garden furniture. This exposes all the grass to the rain (and sunlight) and will prevent further soil compaction – which is worse after rainfall.

The same applies to large children's toys and paddling pools, which will also kill the grass beneath.

Even if we've already had a few days of rain, still move your garden furniture off the lawn. It will limit the damage and help encourage the grass beneath to bounce back – those patches might be just a little behind the rest of the lawn.

2. Do not walk on the grass

Just as garden furniture causes the ground to compact and reduces the amount of water the soil can absorb, walking on damp ground has the same effect.

'When soil is wet, walking across it can cause compaction, pressing soil particles closer together and reducing the air spaces between them. This can restrict water infiltration, meaning water is more likely to sit on the surface rather than penetrate the soil,' says Michael Dumanski, landscaping expert at North Hill Gardens.

'Compacted soil also makes it harder for new roots to grow, so recovery takes longer. If you can, leave the lawn alone until you've had some cooler weather and it's started actively growing again,' advises Matt J Adams, founder and lead gardener at The Relentless Gardener

If you must walk on the grass, follow the same path – you could even make it an official walkway with one of these path ideas – and Matt advises hollow tine aeration using a tool like this from Amazon. 'Hollow tine aeration helps air and water get down to the roots and aid a much faster recovery after drought.'

3. Use a wetting agent

With so little rain over the last few months, making the most of every millilitre is essential. Using a wetting agent (£17.99 on Amazon) ensures that the water is absorbed into the soil and reaches the grass's roots, rather than just running off the surface.

'A wetting agent is a chemical that reduces the surface tension of water. When applied to soil, it helps rain and water penetrate the turf and spread more efficiently,' says Jonathan Davis, a grass expert at Lawnsmith. 'Water can sometimes just run off soil, especially when the ground is dry and hard. By disrupting the water’s surface tension, a wetting agent immediately allows it to filter down through the soil, right to the roots where it’s most needed.'

This is different from fertilising your lawn, which is one of the garden jobs you should never do in a heatwave.

Also consider other ways to help the soil to retain moisture. When you're back mowing – 'wait until the grass reaches a height of more than 30-40mm,' says Matt J Adams of The Relentless Gardener – be sure to reuse the grass clippings by leaving them on the grass. This method of using grass clippings as lawn mulch helps retain soil moisture and will make your grass look greener.

After a summer of hose pipes and drought conditions, it's worth making the most of every drop of rain to get your lawn back in peak condition.