The Big Butterfly Count needs just 15 minutes of your time this week as the wildlife survey seeks to gain a better understanding of the UK’s butterfly populations, so scientists can help them in the future.

Who wouldn’t want to attract butterflies to their gardens? Not only are these winged insects incredibly beautiful to spot, but they’re vital pollinators, too. But butterfly populations in the UK have significantly declined since the 1970s, and they need your help.

Plus, butterfly declines are also an early warning for other wildlife loss, making the Big Butterfly Count an important way to help every critter in your wildlife garden. Here’s everything you need to get involved.

What is the Big Butterfly Count?

The Big Butterfly Count is run by the wildlife charity Butterfly Conservation and runs from 17 July to 9 August, making this the last week to get involved. And you really should, as Butterfly Conservation says the UK is currently in a butterfly emergency.

The survey was launched back in 2010 and has since become the world's largest survey of butterflies. It’s important to get involved as butterflies are biodiversity indicators for scientists. This means that butterflies react very quickly to changes in their environment. So, if butterfly populations are declining, it means that nature is in trouble.

Counting butterflies helps scientists at Butterfly Conservation assess how much help the natural world needs. It helps them identify population trends and allows them to come up with a plan to help protect this beautiful species from extinction.

How to get involved

The good news is that it’s incredibly easy to get involved with the Big Butterfly Count, and even better, it’s great fun for the whole family, too. All you have to do is head outside and count butterflies for 15 minutes during a bright, preferably sunny day.

The survey encourages records from gardens, parks, meadows, school grounds and forests so don’t worry if you don’t have a garden, you can still get involved. However, the rules are slightly different if you're counting in your garden, compared to out on a walk.

If counting from a fixed position in your garden, Butterfly Conservation says to; ‘count the maximum number of each species that you can see at a single time. For example, if you see three Red Admirals together on a buddleia bush then record it as 3, but if you only see one at a time then record it as 1 (even if you saw one on several occasions) - this is so that you don't count the same butterfly more than once.’

When on a walk, simply total up the number of each species you spot during the 15 minutes. The charity has provided a list of target butterflies and day-flying moth species they’d like you to count and can help you identify. If you spot species not on the list, you can record it using the iRecord Butterflies app. If you don’t see any butterflies, it’s important to report this too as it can indicate a wider problem in your area.

How to make your garden butterfly-friendly

As well as getting involved in the count, you can also make your garden butterfly-friendly, too. For example, plants that attract butterflies, such as agastache or lavender. Or, create your own butterfly food to give them a boost during summer.

Butterflies are a welcome sight in any garden, but sadly need our help. Spending just 15 minutes counting different species in your garden can have a huge impact on what we know about how to conserve them.

We're in the peak of summer right now, and if you have agapanthus growing in your garden, it will be looking its best, despite the unseasonably hot weather. Agapanthus look stunning in full bloom with their striking blue flowers, long stems and lush foliage and if you’re wondering how to keep yours looking its best for longer, the good news is that when it comes to what to do with agapanthus in August, the answer is ‘not a lot’...which is a relief considering the heatwave and hosepipe bans that many of us are under at the moment.

‘August is really all about keeping agapanthus neat and not pushing them to do more than they already are,’ says Julian Palphramand, Head of Plants at British Garden Centres. ‘During August it’s mainly a matter of deadheading agapanthus flowers as they fade, plus keeping on top of watering. Do both of these (and hold off on doing other tasks), and you’ll keep the plant looking fresher for longer.’

Find out which jobs you should be doing right now and what jobs you don’t need to be worrying about below.

1. Deadhead faded booms but don't cut back the foliage

‘To keep your agapanthus looking healthy and blooming for as long as possible, once the flower head has completely faded, use clean, sharp secateurs or snips to remove the entire flowering stem,’ advises Craig Wilson, Co-founder and gardening expert at Gardeners Dream.

‘Follow the stem down and cut it off low at the base, just above where it emerges from the clump, taking care not to damage the crown or surrounding foliage. When deadheading, make sure to keep any healthy, green leaves on the plant as these are needed to absorb sunlight to help feed the roots, which helps direct energy toward continued flowering.'

When it comes to what to do with agapanthus after flowering, when the summer months are over, this will involve cutting back both flowers and foliage, but won't need to be tackled until autumn once plants have fully finished flowering.

Shop for deadheading essentials

2. Water consistently but don’t overwater

‘Aside from when to deadhead agapanthus, you also need to water them regularly throughout the last few weeks of the summer season,’ says Craig. ‘This will help to keep your plant healthy and encourage some last-minute blooms before the plant is ready for budding next year.’

‘I would advise watering your agapanthus around once or twice per week in August, depending on how warm the weather gets, ensuring the soil is moist throughout but not waterlogged as this will rot the roots and destroy your plants,’ adds Chris.

When it comes to agapanthus in containers, these may require watering more frequently as pots and containers tend to dry out much more quickly than plants growing in the ground. Check how dry the soil is by poking your finger into the compost before you water, as agapanthus benefit if the soil dries out a little before watering.

‘If the weather is very dry, give agapanthus a proper soak now and again rather than lots of little splashes of water, which won’t do much good,’ advises Julian. ‘But do avoid overwatering agapanthus as they dislike sitting in wet soil, especially when in pots, and they’ll always perform better when free-draining, so consider pot feet or a well-draining but moisture-retaining mix, like this Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Peat-free compost, £8.50 from B&Q, which can help prevent plants from drying out too quickly.’

3. Ensure plenty of sunshine

Agapanthus require direct sunlight for at least two-thirds of the day, so it’s important to factor this in at the agapanthus planting stage. Moving a plant into a sunny spot too late in the season may mean that it doesn’t flower the following year.

‘Find a sun-kissed area of the garden to plant agapanthus that also benefits from a bit of rain shelter,’ advises Craig. ‘This normally consists of planting near a sun-facing fence and should encourage fresh new growth as well as more flowers.’

When it comes to the extremely hot weather that we’ve been experiencing this summer, although agapanthus handle hot dry spells better than most plants, prolonged heatwaves can require more targeted care like deep watering or a smart irrigation system to ensure that plants don’t suffer in the heat.

‘For agapanthus in containers, do make sure that they’re not baking in all-day sun with no room for moisture to stay in the compost,’ advises Julian.

Shop for DIY irrigation kits

4. Hold off feeding agapanthus in summer

While it can be tempting to whip out the plant fertiliser if you want to encourage a healthy plant to produce more flowers, adding fertiliser is something that you actually shouldn’t be doing in high summer when it comes to agapanthus.

‘You don’t need to feed agapanthus heavily at this point in the season,’ advises Julian. ‘Too much fertiliser now can encourage lots of leafy growth at the expense of flowers, which will weaken the plant.’

When it comes to feeding agapanthus, this should be done during the growing season from Spring until flowering, using a high potassium feed, such as Levington Tomorite Liquid Tomato Food, £3.99, Amazon.

And remember that plants in containers have less access to nutrients than plants growing in the ground in borders, so feeding any agapanthus you have growing in pots is essential during the growing season.

5. Don’t divide agapanthus in summer

‘When it comes to dividing perennial plants like agapanthus, I would always advise not splitting them in August as doing this so late into the season will stress the plant and hinder its growth,’ says Craig. ‘I’d therefore recommend waiting until early spring to separate them,’ advises Craig.

The benefit of dividing agapanthus plants is that they can become crowded and congested over time, which starves the roots of space and nutrients and can cause a lack of flowers. Established agapanthus clumps are best lifted and divided into smaller clumps in springtime, which will give extra plants for free that can then be planted elsewhere in the garden.

How are your agapanthus faring this summer? Let us know how you've been looking after them.

Gladioli are instantly recognised by their spires of blooms and vibrant colours and are a favourite in the garden and as cut flowers. A single flower spike can produce up to 20 buds, so gladiolus not flowering is a big disappointment – especially as their leaves aren't particularly interesting in their own right.

There are lots of reasons for gladiolus not flowering, including the age of the corms, the planting technique and care regime, with some issues easier to remedy than others. To help you get to the bottom of why your gladiolus aren't flowering, we asked the experts for their advice and solutions to ensure beautiful blooms every year.

1. The age of the corms

If your gladiolus has flowered reliably for years and has suddenly stopped, it could be due to the age of the corms. Corms are similar to bulbs and will multiply as the plant grows, creating new plants.

'Corms that have matured and flowered for a few years will produce new corms that will eventually replace the parent plant. As well as a new main corm, the plant can also produce smaller cormlets that emerge from the seam between the old and new sections,' explains Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture.

'First year corms are smaller than the parent corm and often will not bloom, only producing flowers in their second year of growth. Cormlets may take up to three years to bloom. If you divide an existing clump, only replant the largest corms, as these will produce the most buds. First-year corms and cormlets can be planted in pots and then placed out of the way to mature for a year before being planted out.'

If you want guaranteed flowers and your corms are a few years old, it might be investing in a new set. Crocus have a wide range of gladiolus corms available each winter – the mixed colour collection would be perfect for beginners.

2. Not enough sun

Gladiolus need full sun to bloom: 'at least six hours of direct sun each day to produce strong flower spikes,' says Morris Hankinson, managing director of Hopes Grove Nurseries 'If they are planted in too much shade, they produce more leafy growth instead of flowers.'

If you have planted your gladiolus bulbs in pots, then you can easily move your pot into a sunnier spot. Of course, this needs to be done early in the growing season to ensure there's enough time for flower stems to develop and bloom.

For gladiolus planted in the ground it is, unfortunately, a case of waiting for the leaves to go over in autumn, digging up the corms and replanting in a sunny spot next spring – February is a great time to plant gladiolus.

3. Feeding with a nitrogen-rich fertiliser

If your corms are not too old and are planted in a sunny position, still your gladiolus is not flowering it may be worth double checking your fertiliser.

Nitrogen rich feeds – which includes many general fertilisers – encourage leafy growth at the expensive of flowers. 'Instead, switch to a potash-rich feed like tomato food to support flower growth,' says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

Tomatorite, available on Amazon – is a great option for promoting blooms – or you could try making your own tomato fertiliser. Feed every week or two during the growing season.

4. Pruning the foliage after flowering

One of the biggest mistakes people make when growing gladiolus is pruning the foliage too soon after flowering. This is a leading cause of gladiolus not flowering.

'To make sure they flower next year, leave the leaves on after flowering and let the foliage stay until it naturally turns yellow. The leaves will photosynthesise and replenish the corm,' says Chris Bonnett, founder of GardeningExpress. The energy it stores now is essential for growth and healthy blooms next year.

The same rules apply when growing other bulbs after flowering, such as tulips.

5. Planting corms too late

'You should only plant gladiolus corms when the risk of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up. It can take a few months for gladiolus to bloom, so if they are planted too late or you experience a short summer, the window for buds to develop can be over quickly,' says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture.

'To ensure a good display, you can try starting plants indoors a few weeks before frosts end, and then transplant them outside once the soil is warm enough.'

If planting outside, February is a great time to plant your gladiolus corms.

6. Not planting corms deeply enough

As is the case with many bulbs, getting the correct planting depth can make or break your chance of flowers. In fact, its one of the most common bulb-planting mistakes.

If your gladiolus aren't flowering, it could be that they have been planted too shallow. 'If the corms aren't planted deep enough, the plants become unstable and put less energy into flowering. Corms should be planted about 10 to 15cm deep,' says Morris Hankinson. This is a similar depth to daffodil bulbs.

To make things easier, you can use a bulb planting tool like this Gardena Bulb Planter from Amazon which has measurements on the side to help you get the right depth.

7 . Keeping the corms in the ground over winter

'Gladiolus can be left in the ground over winter but will often perform better if lifted and stored as the corms may not grow after a cold, wet winter,' says Morris Hankinson, Managing Director of Hopes Grove Nurseries.

Lift the corms using a fork, then shake off any excess soil and store in mesh, paper or hessian bags – like these from Amazon – and keep in a cool, frost-free location. You can then replant in early spring.

Lifting gladiolus also gives you the opportunity to manage overcrowding – another leading cause of gladiolus not flowering. 'Corms naturally produce offsets, and over time these clumps of corms become congested, which can reduce flowering. The congestion causes plants to compete for space and nutrients, impacting flowering. Regularly replacing older corms with the largest newer ones will help maintain strong flowering each year.'

If you want to keep your corms in the ground, covering the top with mulch – like Strulch from Amazon – can help keep the corms viable, though it is no guarantee.

Nothing is more disappointing than a plant failing to bloom, if it's happened to you this year don't give up on your gladiolus. Follow our advice to help your current plants or make sure you put these tips into action next year.

If your dahlias are (hopefully) flowering this month and you want to prolong or boost those displays, you'll need to know what to do with dahlias in August.

Whether you’re growing dahlias in pots or dinnerplate varieties in your border, the care you give them right now will determine how long they bloom for – and how much they flower over the coming weeks.

It's all about deadheading them the right way, watering them properly, and one or two other care tasks that'll guarantee strong, healthy plants for the rest of the growing season. Here's what to do with your dahlias this August.

What you'll need

1. Deadhead spent flowers

In August, your dahlias should be pumping out blooms like there’s no tomorrow. That’s why deadheading is such an important dahlia task – think of them as a cut-and-come-again plant, because the more you deadhead, the more flowers you’ll be rewarded with.

‘The most important August job is to keep the plants flowering well, and here, deadheading is crucial,’ says Topher Martyn, head gardener at Syon Park.

‘When you cut off an old flower head, trim right back to the next pair of leaves, as this is where a new pair of flowers will emerge.’

I always resort to a sturdy pair of garden snips when I’m deadheading my plants, like these Kent & Stowe Garden Life Snips from B&Q.

Identifying an old flower head is pretty easy – you’ll just need to look at its shape.

‘Pointy shapes mean the flowers are done, so cut them all the way back to the main stem,’ explains Nicky Ryan, gardener at Polhawn Fort. ‘To recognise new buds, look for round shapes.’

2. Cut back leggy stems

If your dahlias are beginning to look leggy in August, you can get them back in shape by pruning them a little harder.

‘One of the (many) strengths of dahlias is that they’re strong growers, so if you think they’re getting leggy, don’t be afraid to cut a few stems back hard,’ says Topher from Syon Park.

‘Before you know it, there’ll be new buds coming through further down, and there’s no reason they won’t keep on through the dog days of September, right up to the first frost.’

You’ll need a sharp pair of secateurs to make the task smoother. These Niwaki Sentei Secateurs are some of the best I’ve tried, but if you’re after a budget-friendly pair, the Spear & Jackson Razorsharp Bypass Secateurs (which you can buy from Amazon) are an absolute steal.

3. Water them well

Underwatering and overwatering are some of the main reasons a dahlia fails to bloom, and they can stunt a plant’s flowering potential in August, too. Since the heatwaves seem to be sticking around, hydration is key this month.

‘While they will tolerate a degree of drought, dahlias generally perform far better if kept watered, so this might be a case when it’s worth schlepping out with a watering can,’ says Topher from Syon Park.

‘During dry spells, regular watering will be needed at the base of the new plant,’ agrees Nicky from Polhawn Fort. ‘Dahlias in pots will need more watering.’

Since there are hosepipe bans in place in many parts of the UK, it’s worth using a big watering can instead, like this 10L Ward Watering Can from Argos.

4. Feed them until the end of the month

Keep your dahlias well-fed in August to maximise their flowering displays. Until the end of the month, anyway.

‘Continue to feed container plants weekly and ground plants every two weeks with a low nitrogen, high potassium feed,’ says Nicky. ‘At the end of August, stop feeding so the tubers can prepare for their winter dormancy.’

Vitax Dahlia Feed, which you can order from Amazon, is a high-potash fertiliser that’s ideal for August feeding.

Deadheading, consistent watering and high-potash feeds are key to nurturing dahlias in August, promoting lots of healthy blooms right through to the autumn months.

A lawn expert is warning against fertilising your grass during a heatwave, stating that it will do far more damage than good.

With drought declared across England and Wales, there are undoubtedly a lot of dry, patchy lawns that have been struggling with the relentless heat. And while we all want to enlist the best August lawn care tips to restore our grass to its former glory. But fertilising your lawn is one task you must avoid during a heatwave.

You may assume giving your grass a good feed this month will help give it a boost. That is wrong; fertilising your lawn now can stress your grass even more, making it take even longer to recover.

Why can't your fertilise a lawn during a heatwave?

During a heatwave or drought conditions, your grass is essentially in survival mode and adding fertiliser can put an unnecessary strain on your lawn, making it a garden job you should never do in a heatwave.

‘Fertilising a lawn with a granular feed during a heatwave is one of the quickest ways to make a lawn worse, not better,’ explains Matt J Adams, founder and lead gardener at The Relentless Gardener.

‘It can be tempting to feed your lawn when it starts looking brown or patchy, as many gardeners assume it simply needs a boost of nutrients to green up again. In reality, the grass is in survival mode, and applying fertilisers to dry, stressed turf can scorch the blades, placing even more pressure on the roots and delaying recovery.

Instead, if you want to protect your lawn in a heatwave, you should water it deeply once or twice a week and early in the morning. You could also consider using a wetting agent (£19.99, B&Q), which aids your lawn in absorbing water and reduces runoff. Pros also recommend raising your mower blades to leave your grass a bit longer. This helps shade the soil and helps it retain moisture.

'Grass going brown during a prolonged dry spell is one of the most misunderstood things in lawn care. What you’re actually seeing is dormancy: the grass basically going into survival mode, which to the eye looks like putting all its energy into protecting the root, not a shiny green grass blade,' adds Ashleigh Bradshaw, Lawn Specialist at Hayter.

'The lawn will very likely recover once regular rainfall returns, often within a few weeks. The danger is overreacting. Heavy watering, feeding and scarifying during active dormancy tends to do more damage than the drought itself.'

When should you fertilise a lawn?

Of course, lawns do benefit from feeding; you just need to know when to fertilise a lawn. Matt says to hold your horses until the weather has cooled down. Most experts recommend feeding your lawn once in spring and once in autumn.

‘The best time to fertilise is once the hot weather has passed, temperatures have cooled, and ideally after rainfall has returned so the lawn is actively growing again. Spring is the ideal time to encourage new growth, while a slow nitrogen-releasing feed can also help replenish nutrients after a dry spell, provided the soil is no longer extremely dry. The Relentless Gardener’s Summer Liquid Lawn Feed is specially designed to be applied during warmer weather but can only be used if the lawn is not already brown,’ he says.

While fertilising your lawn might sound like a good idea right now, it’s really not. Put the feed away, wait till autumn and focus on watering right now.

Between soaring temperatures, looming hosepipe bans and the constant worry that your favourite plants are about to crisp up overnight, it can feel impossible to know if you're watering correctly. Thankfully, Monty Don's 4-step guide for watering in a drought is here to save us all a lot of headaches and help us stay on target.

Yes, as heatwaves become more frequent and hosepipe bans are introduced across parts of the UK, many gardeners are wondering how often to water their plants to keep them alive and quenched without making a major watering mistake. It can be difficult to know whether you're watering too much, too little, or simply at the wrong time. And when every drop counts, getting it right matters more than ever.

That's why advice from gardening expert Monty Don is always worth paying attention to. As one of the UK's most trusted gardening experts, he's built a reputation for sharing practical, sustainable advice that actually works in real gardens, so yes, you'd best believe his 4-step approach to watering during a drought is no exception.

Monty Don's 4-step guide to watering in a drought

When it comes to gardening advice, few people are as trusted as Monty Don. His tips are refreshingly simple, easy to follow, and, most importantly, they actually work. So when he shares his advice on watering during a drought, it's well worth taking note.

Instead of encouraging us to reach for the hose every day, Monty's 4-step guide (which he shared during an appearance on the BBC Gardeners' World podcast) focuses on helping plants become naturally more resilient while making every drop of water go further.

So without any further ado...

1. Collect rainwater

In his 4-step guide to watering in a drought, Monty Don recommends rain harvesting wherever possible to reduce reliance on mains water during dry spells.

'Rainwater is naturally softer than tap water and is a sustainable way to keep plants hydrated while conserving mains water during periods of drought,' agrees Morris Hankinson, director of Hopes Grove Nurseries.

'Installing a water butt means you can make the most of every shower, even when rainfall is limited,' he adds.

Using stored rainwater also helps gardeners prepare for potential hosepipe restrictions (Thames Water currently has one in place), as it means plants can still be watered responsibly.

Shop rain harvesting equipment

2. Apply a layer of mulch

Adding mulch around plants is one of the most effective ways to retain moisture in the soil, so it's little wonder that it found itself on Monty Don's 4-step guide to watering in a drought.

'If you have soil that is full of organic matter and therefore becomes loam, it will retain moisture, and that's really the secret of watering plants. Your plants should not be dependent upon you giving them water. They should be dependent upon accessing water that's in the soil,' he says.

Morris wholeheartedly agrees with this approach. 'Mulching helps lock moisture into the soil, reduces evaporation, keeps roots cooler and suppresses weeds that compete with plants for water,' he says. 'A generous layer of organic mulch can significantly reduce how often you need to water during a heatwave.'

As well as conserving moisture, mulch gradually breaks down over time, improving soil structure and supporting healthier plant growth, making it a true triple threat worth investing in, quite frankly! Try something like the RocketGro Magic Mulch from Amazon.

3. Water deeply every few days

Rather than reaching for the watering can every evening, Monty Don recommends watering less frequently but much more thoroughly in his 4-step guide. 'If you only water on the surface, the roots have to come to the surface to find it and are therefore more exposed to the heat and drought,' he notes, pointing out that you should 'never water plants, water the soil'.

So, how best to do this? Well, rather than watering little and often, Morris explains that 'giving plants a thorough soak encourages roots to grow deeper into the soil'. 'Plants with deeper root systems are far better equipped to cope with dry conditions because they can access moisture lower down in the soil,' he says.

Morris adds that deep watering also reduces surface evaporation, ensuring more water reaches where plants need it most. Win! Try this nifty rainwater-collecting watering can from Crocus if you really want to keep it sustainable!

4. Add grit to containers

Container plants often dry out much faster than those growing in borders, making them particularly vulnerable during hot weather. And that's where something like Melcourt RHS horticultural potting grit from Amazon comes into play.

'Mixing grit into compost improves drainage and aeration, helping container-grown plants develop healthier roots and making the compost structure more resilient after watering,' says Morris, who notes that healthier roots are better able to absorb and retain moisture.

Improved compost structure, too, helps prevent pots from becoming compacted after repeated watering, he promises.

FAQs

Whether you're facing yet another heatwave or trying to garden through a hosepipe ban, Monty Don's advice focuses on making every drop of water count. By collecting rainwater, mulching regularly, watering deeply and improving the growing conditions in containers, you can help your plants withstand dry weather while using water far more efficiently.

And, really, isn't that worth the effort of just four simple little steps?

With increasing temperatures and no sign of them going away over the next few years, it's time for us to adapt how we manage our gardens during the summer months.

With incoming heatwaves, we've spoken to our gardening experts to find out what tips and tricks they can pass to us so we can keep our much-loved outdoor spaces thriving.

We have seven great tips to keep the next heatwave as stress-free as possible for you and your garden.

1. Water deeply, but less often

'One of the biggest mistakes I see is people watering little and often,' says Liam Cleary, gardening expert at the Old Railway Line Garden Centre. 'It feels like you're helping the plants, but you're really only wetting the surface. A proper deep soak every few days encourages roots to grow down into cooler soil where moisture lasts much longer.'

'When a heatwave hits, the main thing gardeners rely on is watering deeply and less often, so the moisture gets right down to the roots,' agrees Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. 'A quick splash on the surface just disappears far too fast.'

When doing your deep watering, use a hose head that provides a heavy yet soft rain feel; we like Amazon's Dramm 14865 one-touch rain wand with one-touch valve, 16 inch in blue, £42.05. It hydrates without disturbing the soil.

2. Timing

Timing is everything when you are keeping your plants hydrated during a heatwave. 'Early morning or evening watering is always best, when there’s less evaporation, and plants can actually make use of it, says Julian.

And it also pays to watch your plants closely for signs, rather than overwater them. 'When your plants genuinely tell you they need a drink (look for crispy or brown edges that don't recover at night), water more deeply and infrequently. Pour water at the base of the plant, let it completely soak into the ground, and then go over it a second time. This encourages the water to penetrate deep into the water table, training the roots to grow downward where the soil stays naturally cooler and damper,' advises Noah Mabey, senior gardener at Thornbridge Hall and horticultural advisor to Platinum Spas.

To help you decide when to water instead of guessing, invest in a moisture tester; we like B&Q's plant hygrometer for indoor/outdoor gardening, £11.59. All you need to do is pop the probe into the soil, and it will tell you its moisture level.

3. Harvest the rain

With hosepipe bans already enforced in some areas and no doubt more on their way, it pays to be organised and investing in a water butt is a great option – if we have any rain to fill it!

Noah explains, 'Relying on mains water during a heatwave can often be restricted by hosepipe bans. Adding dedicated water butts into your garden is one of the easiest ways to secure a free, independent water supply. People often underestimate how much water a single downpipe can collect; a brief summer downpour on a decent-sized roof can fill a standard water butt in very little time.

To make this harvested water go as far as possible, step away from the hosepipe, which encourages overwatering. Fill a traditional watering can directly from the butt tap. This forces you to be more targeted, ensuring you can see exactly how much water is going directly to the root area of specific plants.'

There are a couple of water butt options on the market, from good value like B&Q's ward stand and downpipe connector with 210 litre basic water butt at £39, to Garden Trading's powder-coated steel design in thistle green, currently on sale at £176.

4. Mulching

Mulching is such a beneficial thing to do – it boosts biodiversity, prevents erosion, suppresses weeds, enriches the soil – and in a heatwave it helps to regulate soil temperature and conserves moisture.

Huw Richards, best-selling author, grow-your-own expert and ambassador for Gardena explains, 'One of the most effective ways to help your garden cope during a heatwave is to prioritise soil health. Soil which is rich in organic matter naturally holds onto water for longer, giving plants a more consistent supply between watering.'

The best way to help during high temperatures is to apply a 5-10 cm layer of organic mulch. Huw adds, 'Put compost, straw or leaf mould mulch around your crops; it acts as a protective blanket over the soil. Grass clippings are also an excellent mulch provided they are cut from a lawn of grass that isn’t in flower, which could cause weed issues later down the line.'

Dobies sell Strulch mineralised straw garden mulch, currently £19.99 for a 9kg bag, or if you prefer a leaf mould compost, then check out Happy Earth Soil, 50L bag full of fallen leaves with worm castings and microbes, £18.98, Amazon.

5. Move things around

Sounds obvious, but sometimes we are so used to seeing things in certain positions in our gardens, and they look well established, that we forget we can move them. And there's no better time to do this than before a heatwave.

'Try grouping containers together in a sheltered, partially shaded location to create a more humid microclimate and reduce water loss,' suggests Huw. 'I like to place my pots at the foot of the shady side of a hedge, for example.'

Noah adds, '“Potted plants and containers are incredibly vulnerable to heat because their root systems are isolated above ground, causing them to dry out quickly in direct sunlight. Design your container setups with deep trays or saucers underneath. In a heatwave, water poured on top of a dry pot often channels straight down the sides and wastes away out the bottom. A saucer catches this runoff, allowing the compost to slowly wick it back up.'

For new plants that need a larger home, have a look at Crocus's terracotta ruffle pots with glazed saucers, from £29.99. Then give your containers a good water.

6. Use a soaker hose

'A soaker hose is a porous garden hose that slowly distributes water into the soil around the roots of plants,' explains Richard.

This is a really useful option during a heatwave; it can be connected to your garden tap, and then you pin it in place around your plants. However, you unfortunately cannot use one during a hosepipe ban.

'They operate on low pressure, so only turn on the water slightly, as if water rushes out it can risk bursting the hose. You can also attach a timer to the tap to automate the watering schedule using the hose. To make the hose more effective, cover it with a two- to three-inch layer of mulch, as this helps to hold the hose steady and stops water from evaporating in the sun,' advises Richard.

Amazon sell different sizes, but a good starter option is the 15 metre drip hose set that has connectors, £25.99. Pop a timer on it, and you're good to go – Tesco's electronic hose water timer has a two-hose option which is handy, £24.95.

7. Adopt the Olla method

Have you heard of the olla method?

Richard explains, 'An olla is a simple irrigation method that uses unglazed terracotta pots to slowly supply water to plant roots. To use an olla, dig a hole in a garden bed and bury the olla up to its neck, leaving the opening exposed. Fill the pot with water, and cover the opening with a lid to prevent evaporation. These are best used in soils that are good at holding water, as the water may seep out too quickly in sandier soils.'

Another version of it is using a watering spike that's made from terracotta – we like Amazon's Bamworld plant watering spikes; you get 6 for £12.99. Place them in the soil, fill a bottle of water - an old wine bottle, for example and pop it into the spike; the water will then slowly seep into the soil via the spike.

Garden essentials for a heatwave

Hopefully our top tips from garden experts will help your garden survive the heatwaves – a final bit of advice from Julian: 'The other thing gardeners learn is not to panic. Newly planted shrubs, young trees and pots need the most care, but established plants can usually cope a bit better than they first look. A heatwave is really about being practical, not overdoing it, and a few simple tricks can keep everything going until the temperature drops.'

If you thought destroying an ant's nest in your garden was the swiftest and most direct route to rid your garden of ants, according to pest experts, you could actually be making the problem worse.

If your garden has been overrun this summer, it’s only natural that you want to know how to get rid of ants. But, a little like cutting off the head of a hydra, when you remove one ant's nest, another will crop up in its place.

So, before you go ahead and destroy a nest, this is everything the experts want you to know first.

Does destroying an ant's nest make the problem worse?

The main reason ants will move into the site of an old nest is because they are highly territorial, and if the area has the perfect homebuilding conditions and food supplies, it’s incredibly attractive for ants.

'Destroying a nest without killing the queen achieves very little in the long term. Worker ants will regroup, the queen will relocate, and a new nest will be established nearby, often within days. In some cases, disrupting a large established colony can cause it to split into multiple satellite nests, which means you can end up with more ant activity across a wider area than you started with. This is one of the most common mistakes people make when dealing with garden ants,’ explains Mosh Latifi, co-owner of EcoCare Pest Management.

‘If the original colony has been properly eliminated, the territory will not go unclaimed for long. Ant colonies are highly territorial, but if a space becomes available, neighbouring colonies will expand into it. In a garden with good foraging conditions, some level of ant presence is essentially inevitable. The goal is management rather than eradication.’

While you can use scents to deter ants or use natural methods like diatomaceous earth to keep them away from your home, remember that ants are a natural part of any garden ecosystem and therefore don’t necessarily need removing.

‘Ants are a natural part of the garden ecosystem and, in many cases, don't require control unless they are becoming a nuisance or contributing to problems elsewhere, such as repeatedly entering the home. Before considering treatment, it's worth assessing whether the ants are actually causing an issue. If they are, the focus should be on locating and treating the source of the colony rather than only dealing with the ants that are visible,’ says Daniel Steward, Managing Director at Shield Pest Control.

‘The most effective long-term approach is to identify and deal with the nest itself while also removing whatever is attracting the ants to the area. Natural deterrents such as peppermint oil, tea tree oil or diluted white vinegar can help disrupt pheromone trails and discourage ants from returning to treated areas, although they require regular reapplication and are not permanent solutions.

‘Nematodes are sometimes suggested as a biological control method, but their effectiveness can vary depending on the ant species and environmental conditions. For established infestations, targeted treatment of the colony is generally more reliable than relying on nematodes alone.’

Unless they're genuinely causing problems in your home, ants don't need to be removed from a garden. If you do find yourself with a pest problem, it's best to consult the professionals first.

Want to keep your roses flowering until early autumn? If you know what to do with roses in August, you can encourage another flush of blooms.

Learning how to grow roses is incredibly rewarding, because the repeat-flowering varieties look (and often smell) beautiful from spring through to the first frosts. This month is a crucial time to pencil in care tasks that’ll keep the plants in bloom – especially in light of the ongoing heatwaves.

‘August is about maintenance rather than major intervention,’ says Andrew Jackson, award-winning garden writer, designer and creator of The New Build Manifesto. ‘A few minutes spent deadheading, watering deeply and removing diseased leaves every week will reward you with another flush of flowers well into autumn.’

Here’s what to do with roses in August.

What you'll need

1. Give them enough water

Watering might seem like an obvious gardening task, but it’s one of the most important things you can do for your roses in August. You’ll need to be a little more attentive when it comes to watering roses in hot weather, though.

‘In the current climate, roses need to be watered early in the morning and during the evening,’ advises Philip Harkness from Harkness Roses. ‘Water straight to the roots and not on the plant itself, as this can cause leaf burn.’

Deep watering is generally recommended during drought weather. Andrews says, ‘During dry spells, water deeply once or twice a week rather than little and often.’

Since hosepipe bans are in place in many parts of the UK, it’s wise to use a large watering can like this affordable 10L Ward watering can from Argos to water your roses.

2. Deadhead them

If you want your roses to keep flowering, deadheading is a crucial August task.

‘Like all plants, roses are biologically programmed to produce seeds,’ explains Topher Martyn, head gardener at Syon Park. ‘By cutting off old flowers before seeds are set, you will frustrate this basic urge and compel the plant to produce more flowers. Sounds a bit mean, but, after all, roses are all about flowers!’

So, how do you actually deadhead roses?

‘Deadhead when the flowers have finished blooming by looking down the stem and cutting just above the first five leaves you see,’ says Philip Harkness. ‘This will encourage a new bud to grow.’

These Darlac deadheading snips from Amazon are ideal.

3. Watch out for pests and diseases

Pests and diseases often thrive in hot weather, and a fair few of them can become problems for roses in August – so you’ll need to keep a close eye on them this month.

‘Keep an eye out for common issues like black spot, aphids, and mildew,’ says Lechuza's horticultural expert, Ross Dyke. ‘Remove any infected leaves as soon as you can, and ensure good airflow around the plant.’

Luckily, a tonic spray can keep them at bay.

‘Spray a foliar feed such as Uncle Tom’s Tonic directly onto the foliage to prevent disease and keep them healthy,’ says Philip from Harkness Roses. ‘Use it first thing in the morning or in the evening, every two weeks during the blooming season, and not in direct sunlight.

You can buy Uncle Tom’s Rose Tonic from Amazon.

4. Feed the plants

A foliar feed is ideal for keeping diseases at bay, but you can also fertilise your roses with a high-potash feed in August to encourage late flowering.

‘It’s worth continuing to feed repeat-flowering roses with a high-potash fertiliser if you haven't done so since their first flush,’ says Andrew Jackson. ‘This helps fuel late summer blooms.’

This advice only applies until the end of August, though.

‘Stop feeding towards the end of the month in colder parts of the country so soft new growth has time to harden before autumn,’ adds Andrew.

Vitax Organic Rose Feed, which you can order from Amazon, contains a high-potash formula to foster healthy, vibrant blooms.

Keep on top of watering, deadheading and feeding this month, and repeat-flowering roses should put on a show for the rest of the growing season.

Thanks to the UK’s increasingly hot summers, the RHS is considering relocating its Wisley hydrangeas to its northern Gardens. It’s a concerning move for hydrangea lovers in the south – but that doesn’t mean we should give up on our plants.

When you’re deciding where to plant hydrangeas, it’s always worth remembering that they’re woodland plants by nature, and they thrive in light shade. That means heatwaves and droughts are tricky conditions for the shrubs – but does that mean they’re no longer suitable for southern gardens?

Luckily, the answer is no. We spoke to RHS chief horticultural advisor Guy Barter to find out which varieties are most likely to thrive in southern gardens – and how to save the hydrangeas we already have.

This summer’s been a scorcher, and although there are ways to look after hydrangeas in a heatwave, I’ve spotted a lot of brown plants lately.

It makes sense, then, that the UK’s leading gardening charity is thinking about rehoming its RHS Wisley hydrangea collections in the north. We asked Guy about what's motivating the move.

‘RHS Wisley is a very dry area,’ Guy said. ‘It’s got very dry, sandy soil, so some hydrangea varieties in some parts of the garden can be under pressure in hot, dry weather. Rather than giving ourselves a lot of work to keep them watered and cared for, we’re thinking about relocating them to our northern gardens, where it’s moister, the soil is more water-retentive, and they’ll need less looking after.’

It’s no secret that hydrangeas are perfect for damp gardens, and that’s where they’ll put on their best displays. That’s why RHS Wisley is going to keep some hydrangeas on its north-facing slopes, for example – and you might already be growing your plants in similar conditions.

‘In many cases, hydrangeas will be growing in quite clay soil,’ said Guy. ‘They’ll be growing on north-facing slopes in light shade, perhaps from the house or a wall, so they’ll be in good condition already.’

Some species perform better in hot, dry conditions though.

‘Hydrangea paniculata is a little bit tougher than the mopheads and lacecaps, and that’s one of the ones we use a lot at Wisley,’ said Guy.

Hydrangea paniculata ‘Vanilla Fraise’, which you can buy from Gardening Express, is a popular variety. It produces gorgeous, pyramid-shaped clusters of white-to-pink flowers. For potted plants that can be moved around the garden, Guy recommended Hydrangea serrata ‘Bluebird’ (available at Thompson & Morgan) for silvery blue flowerheads.

If you’ve already planted your hydrangea and it’s struggling, Guy says a few August hydrangea care tasks can help get them back on track.

‘Keep watering, give them liquid fertiliser every fortnight if the potted ones aren’t looking good, and if they’re getting scorched, move the pot somewhere shadier,' he said.

Most importantly, Guy told us that it’s not the end of hydrangeas in the south.

‘Remember that we’re on the way down from summer now, so the nights are going to get longer and dewier, and the conditions are going to naturally get better for hydrangeas,’ Guy told us. ‘So, it’s well worth persisting and keeping them going.’

What you'll need

The RHS' news isn't a sentence for hydrangeas in the south, but it does mean it's wise to become more mindful about the way we grow the shrubs and the varieties that perform best in tough summers.

One sunny afternoon in Richmond, I had the pleasure of sitting down with best-selling author, broadcaster and vegetable grower, Giovanna Fletcher, to chat all things gardening and water-saving tricks. I came away convinced that I need to try one irrigation system in particular: micro-drip watering.

Drip watering is an irrigation method that I’ve been keen to test for a while, and Giovanna told me it’s been a game-changer in her garden this year – particularly for her tomato plants. Giovanna is working with GARDENA in support of UNICEF’s WASH campaign, raising awareness about water scarcity across the globe (more than 2.1 billion people don’t have access to safely managed drinking water), and the importance of becoming more conscious about water usage. We really can make a difference in our own gardens here in the UK – it’s just about changing the way we hydrate our plants.

As luck would have it, micro-drip irrigation systems have a ton of other benefits in our gardens, from seeing us through hosepipe bans (depending on your local water provider's rules) to ensuring consistent watering and healthier plants. Here’s why Giovanna is such a fan.

According to a recent study commissioned by GARDENA, 94% of Brits don’t know how much water they use, and 71% don’t usually think about it. Just 20% view water as a precious resource – and I think we’re all guilty of being a bit too blasé with the hosepipe.

When I spoke to Giovanna, she told me that her gardening practices have changed over the years – her watering methods, specifically.

‘I’ve been much more aware of how much water I’m using with things like micro-drip irrigation systems,’ she said. ‘We’ve really seen the difference this year, with a system that’s set up to be very accurate and efficient, compared to me or my children being quite willy-nilly about it.’

Micro-drip irrigation kits like the GARDENA Micro-Drip-System are ideal for containers. They deliver water at soil level, exactly where it’s needed, and take the guesswork out of correctly watering your plants. Plus, many water providers allow micro-drip irrigation systems during a hosepipe ban (but check the website to make sure!).

‘Not only is it a time saver, but you know that everything’s actually getting watered properly,’ Giovanna told me. ‘It’s been a massive, massive game-changer, and my husband loves me a lot more this year because there’s an irrigation system in place while I go away.’

One of Giovanna’s crops has benefitted from her micro-drip irrigation system in particular, and it’s her favourite thing to grow: tomatoes.

‘Last year, my tomato plants had so much bottom-end rot from inconsistent watering – doing it at different times, with different amounts – but now, I know what’s happening every day,’ she said.

Inconsistent watering can also stop tomatoes from turning red – so I’ll definitely be trying the system out with my tomato plants.

Giovanna actually uses smart garden technology alongside her micro-drip system to streamline the process even further. The GARDENA Smart Irrigation Control is exactly the kind of thing that can upgrade an irrigation system, and you can control watering schedules from the GARDENA smart app.

‘Irrigation can be a bit smarter and think, well, what’s the weather doing? Do I need to put the hose on today? Is the soil dry? It’s having those little bits in place, and that can have such a massive impact on what you’re doing outside,’ Giovanna explained.

Irrigation kits always look a little daunting in the box, but Giovanna told me they’re so easy to set up.

‘I wish I’d known about it sooner,’ she said. ‘It’s so easy. Someone described it to me like Lego, and it’s totally like that. It’s just piecing it together.’

Mindful watering kit

A few tweaks to your watering regime can make it a whole lot more efficient and less wasteful. These are the pieces of kit I'd recommend.

I'll be taking Giovanna's recommendation on board and ordering an irrigation system of my own. It's a brilliant way to keep your garden watered consistently and efficiently.

One question has been nagging at me since Thames Water announced a hosepipe ban last week: Can you use an irrigation system during a hosepipe ban?

I’ve already explored the rules around using an outside tap during a hosepipe ban, and as it turns out, there are a few workarounds – but what about an irrigation system?

Well, it depends on the type of irrigation system you have. Sprinklers, for example, are an absolute no-no – but there are one or two exceptions that, depending on your region, might just be the loophole you need to keep your garden hydrated. Here’s what you need to know.

What you'll need

So, can you use an irrigation system during a hosepipe ban?

As I mentioned before, it all depends on what kind of irrigation system you have. Some will make the cut, while others are illegal under the restrictions – so if you’re looking for ways to water your garden during a hosepipe ban, you’ll need to make sure you’re using the right system.

‘Typically, hose-fed sprinkler and micro-spray irrigation systems are prohibited during a hosepipe ban,’ says Craig Pennington, managing director at Universal Tankers. ‘However, in most cases, a drip or trickle irrigation system that delivers water drip by drip to the plant's soil is permitted.’

So, drip watering systems like the GARDENA Micro-Drip-System (available at Amazon) generally get the green light during a hosepipe ban – but you’ll need to pair them with a couple of other components, and check your local provider’s exact hosepipe ban rules, to be on the safe side.

‘These irrigation systems must be fitted with a pressure-reducing valve and timer to keep water usage to a minimum,’ says Craig. You can order drip irrigation pressure regulators from Amazon.

‘Exact rules can vary depending on your local provider, so check your water company’s website to be sure,' Craig adds. 'Temporary Use Exemptions (TUB) should outline the regulations regarding the use of irrigation systems during a ban.’

Thames Water, for example, says an irrigation ‘is allowed, as long as you’re using an approved drip or trickle irrigation watering system. It must be fitted with a pressure-reducing valve and a timer that are not handheld. They must place water drip by drip directly onto or beneath the soil surface. It must not cause surface runoff or dispersion of water through the air using a jet or mist.’

Best-selling author, YouTube sensation and grow-your-own expert, Huw Richards, who is working with watering and hand tools brand GARDENA, also champions the benefits of a micro-drip irrigation system during a hosepipe ban. He actually recommends using them with stored rainwater to guarantee that you’re not breaking any hosepipe ban rules.

‘Use a micro-drip system (attached to stored rainwater) to apply water directly to the roots, as close to the stem as possible,’ says Huw. ‘Micro-drip irrigation systems can be set up to precisely target vegetable beds, potted plants and even balconies during the drier months. These systems can be paired with a water controller or timer, giving you time to tend to other tasks knowing your plants are getting the right amount of water at the right time.’

Devices like the Hozelock Select Plus Controller, which you can buy from B&Q, draw water from water butts and buckets.

So, micro-drip irrigation systems can generally be used during a hosepipe ban. Always make sure you check your local water provider’s website first, though, because rules sometimes vary by region.

It’s been a hot summer with less rain than average, which means there is an increased risk of fire in your garden. So, I asked garden experts to share the hidden fire risks in a garden during a heatwave, and these are the five things they said.

Prolonged heat and dry weather can turn your garden into a fire risk, as dried-out grass, wooden fencing and even compost heaps become more flammable during a heatwave.

So, if you’re looking to heatproof your garden this summer and maintain a safe environment, here are five risks you need to be aware of.

1. Garden mirrors

While garden mirrors can be used as a clever trick to make your garden look bigger, they can also increase your risk of fire during periods of hot, dry weather.

‘If a mirror or reflective ornament is positioned in direct sunlight, it can create intense hot spots, so it's best to move them away from dry plants, fences and sheds as a precaution,’ says Luke Newnes, garden expert at Hillarys.

Plus, birds are vulnerable to flying into mirrors, so they are best avoided if you have a wildlife garden anyway.

2. BBQs

While the best BBQs are a summer staple, it’s also unsurprising that they carry a great fire risk, too. So, if you plan on grilling up a storm, you need to be aware of the safety risks, too.

‘Safety is an absolute must when it comes to using your fire pit or BBQ, especially during hot and dry conditions. While positioning it near seating is great for making the most of the equipment, avoid placing it too close to ensure everyone stays a safe distance from the heat and fire. Aim for at least seven feet between the seating and the fire pit or BBQ,’ says Adam Oldfield from outdoor living specialists StovesAreUs.

‘You should also position it in an area with ample clearance from surrounding hedges, trees, sheds, and the house to minimise fire hazards and ensure proper ventilation. You should position fire pits, BBQs and outdoor heaters on level ground, away from foot traffic and avoid placing them on grass or wooden decking. In regards to BBQs, never use petrol or other accelerants to start a fire, and only burn high-quality charcoal that is intended for BBQs. Keep a safe distance while lighting, and allow coals to cool completely before disposing of them.’

3. Outdoor electrical equipment

Heat and electricals don’t tend to mesh well together, so make sure to check your garden lighting, cables and tools for damage, and ensure they don’t overheat, either.

‘Outdoor electrical equipment is another area that deserves attention. Garden lighting, extension cables and water feature pumps are easy to forget about, particularly if they've been outside for several seasons. If something is damaged or weathered, hot conditions can make problems worse, so it's worth giving everything a quick check and switching off anything that isn't needed,’ says Luke.

4. Garden waste

Right now, gardens will be very dry, making your garden waste, for example grass cuttings, more flammable.

‘Keeping your garden well-maintained can help reduce the risk of fire. Keep lawns short around patios, sheds and fences, and remove any piles of dry grass clippings. If conditions are particularly hot and dry, avoid using petrol lawn mowers, as hot engines can ignite dry material,’ says Tom Douglas, Senior Gardening Buyer, Plant Buyer at Cherry Lane Garden Centres.

‘Clear away dry leaves and garden debris from around decking, fences and outdoor seating areas, and make sure barbecues and fire pits are positioned well away from anything flammable. Where possible, replace mulch with gravel around cooking and entertaining areas, as gravel is far less likely to catch fire.

‘Compost heaps can also generate heat, so keep them moist during prolonged dry spells and turn them regularly to release any built-up heat.’

5. BBQ and fire pit ash

Lastly, as well as your BBQ, you need to keep an eye on its ash as well. This means not disposing of ash straight away, and allowing it to fully cool first.

‘Old barbecue ash is another commonly overlooked risk. Many people assume everything is safe once the flames have gone out, but charcoal and ash can hold heat for longer than expected. During a dry spell, it's always worth making sure barbecues, fire pits and ash containers have completely cooled and been stored safely,’ says Luke.

Garden cooling essentials

'Prolonged heat and dry weather can quickly turn an ordinary garden into a fire risk, as dried-out lawns, timber fencing, compost heaps and decorative mulch can all become highly combustible during a heatwave,’ Tom concludes.

So, it’s important to assess the risks facing your garden and act accordingly. As always, prevention is better than a cure.

For most of us, this summer has been all about ‘hot weather’ gardening, and trying desperately to keep our plants and flowers alive and watered in the heatwave. My thirsty hydrangeas are suffering most – and as they are one of my favourites (in fact one of the first things I ever planted) – I’m keen to get some expert advice on what to do with hydrangeas in August so that I can keep them thriving.

‘When summer temperatures climb into the 20s and 30s, certain garden plants need extra help handling the heat,’ says Shelley Davis, flower expert at Flying Flowers. ‘Hydrangeas (which literally translates to ‘water vessel’) are particularly thirsty, so require extra care when it comes to what to do with hydrangeas in a heatwave.’

‘In August, your focus is all about making sure your hydrangeas will look their best for the rest of the summer,’ agrees David Denyer, flower and garden expert at Eflorist. ‘They are in full bloom at this time of year, so watering and feeding are priorities over heavy pruning.’

1. Deep water in hot weather

‘Living up to their ‘water vessel’ name, hydrangeas need consistent moisture to survive the summer heat,’ says Shelley. ‘During July and the hotter months, focus on deep watering at the base of the plant once or twice a week rather than light, daily surface sprays. A good tip is to test the top two inches of soil and, if it feels dry, then it’s time to water them.’

‘A top tip is to reuse an old plastic bottle with the bottom cut off, and carefully place it in a hole upside down next to your hydrangea plant as far as you can so the top is slightly above the soil line. After watering normally, fill the bottle up, as this will gradually seep out deeper and closer to the main roots. This is ideal when there’s a hosepipe ban or heatwave to keep the plant constantly hydrated,’ adds Shelley.

‘If you’re enjoying cut stems and notice the flowers starting to wilt, try dunking the entire flower head upside down in a bowl or sink of cool water for around 20 minutes,’ advises Shelley. ‘Hydrangeas can actually absorb water directly through their petals, making this quick bath the ultimate trick to plump drooping blooms right back to life.’

Shop for watering essentials

2. Avoid watering in the heat of the day

‘When it comes to watering in hot weather, timing is all important,’ says Chris Bonnet, founder of Gardening Express. ‘Hydrangeas need deep watering at the base of the plant early in the morning to soak the roots. The large leaves lose moisture quickly during summer heatwaves and if the plant uses up its water supply, the blooms will droop and foliage will scorch and turn brown.’

David Denyer agrees: Watering first thing in the morning or the last thing at night is advisable. That way you’ll ensure that as much moisture as possible reaches the roots instead of evaporating in the sun. Hydrangeas are naturally thirsty and can begin to wilt during long periods of hot and dry weather, so a deep soak once or twice a week, rather than little and often, is best.

3. Mulch to lock-in moisture

‘During hot weather, applying a layer of organic mulch around the base of your hydrangeas can make a real difference,’ says David. ‘Garden compost or well-rotted bark helps lock in moisture to the surrounding soil, reduces evaporation, and keeps roots cooler.’

‘Topping up mulch around your hydrangeas will help the plant retain soil moisture and survive the hot weather,’ says Chris. ‘The mulch helps with moisture retention, keeps the soil cooler and helps prevent weeds from germinating.’

‘While there are different types of mulch, opting for an organic mulch, such as RocketGro Organic Magic Mulch, £14.59, Amazon, or bark chips, around the base of the shrub to help the soil retain essential water through the heat,’ advises Shelley. ‘Just be sure to leave a small gap around the main stems to prevent rotting and allow fresh water to reach the roots easily.’

‘Hydrangeas are also acid-loving plants, so sprinkle used coffee grounds around the base of the plant, give the soil a turnover and mix in the grounds,’ adds Shelley. ‘Your hydrangea will thank you for a little extra nutrient boost.’

Shop for top-rated mulch

4. Shield hydrangeas from the sun

‘During intense heatwaves, hydrangeas planted in full sun may need a temporary shield against the elements as direct, scorching rays can quickly burn leaves and ruin delicate blooms,’ advises Shelley.

‘Setting up a patio umbrella or plant parasol, like this adjustable plant umbrella, £7.89 from Amazon, or draping a light cotton sheet or horticultural fleece over the shrub during peak afternoon heat works wonders at shading plants. Just make sure the shade cover hovers a couple of feet above the plant. If it sits directly on top, heat gets trapped underneath, creating an accidental sauna that can damage the leaves.’

‘And if you are growing hydrangeas in a pot, consider relocating to a shaded area during intense, hot periods,’ adds Shelley.

5. Tidy up plants but don’t hard prune

‘It’s a common hydrangea pruning mistake, but it’s important not to cut your hydrangeas back too early, says David. ‘Hard pruning hydrangeas during August might impact flower buds that have begun growing on old wood, and you don’t want to sacrifice next summer's blooms by being too hasty now.’

‘If the flowers on your plants start to fade, try deadheading individual blooms instead of removing every flower. Ageing hydrangea heads produce eye-catching pink and green tones during autumn months, so you may want to keep them,’ adds David.

‘Late July and August can be the prime time to give your hydrangeas a light haircut,’ advises Shelley. ‘But do make sure you check which variety you have first.’

‘Old-wood hydrangeas like mopheads, lacecaps, and oakleaf can have a tidy up before the end of the month, but new-wood varieties like paniculata and Annabelle should be left to prune in late winter or early spring.’

‘Just be careful not to go overboard,’ adds Shelley. ‘Heavy pruning hydrangeas in midsummer can rob you of next year’s flowers, which defeats the purpose. It’s all about a light touch and, if you’re in doubt, stick to removing faded or damaged flower heads and tidying up stray branches.’

‘Leaving faded blooms on mophead hydrangeas will help protect new buds from damage,’ adds Chris. ‘But when it comes to pruning climbing hydrangeas, prune these after flowering has finished (typically late July or August), which gives the plant time to develop fresh wood and new flower buds for the following year. It will also keep the plant looking neat and tidy for the remainder of the summer.’

How are your hydrangeas faring this summer? Let us know how you have been looking after them in the hot weather.

You’ll probably already be aware mosquitoes prefer standing water, making your bird bath a prime spot for these pests. However, I've just discovered the best and prettiest way to overcome this issue: adding a solar water fountain (£9.99, Amazon) to a bird bath. It is an easy hack that deters mosquitoes and turns your bird bath into a pretty water feature that birds will still visit.

When attempting to get rid of mosquitoes from your garden, removing all stagnant water is a must. But as it's also essential to leave water out if you want to help birds in hot weather, you may have found yourself at a crossroads.

Luckily, you don’t have to choose one or the other. Adding a solar fountain to your bird bath helps keep the water moving (deterring mosquitoes from choosing it as a breeding site), whilst still attracting birds to your garden.

The reason why mosquitoes seek standing water is that it acts as a safe nursery for their babies. Moving water risks washing their eggs and larvae away, so mosquitoes instinctively lay their eggs in still water. Larvae also need still water, as they need air to breathe from the surface. It’s easy for larvae to stay at the surface of standing water.

Unfortunately, this means your bird bath is an ideal area for mosquitoes to breed. Birds are just as prone to mosquitoes as we humans, so you should learn how to keep mosquitoes away from a bird bath. Thankfully, adding a solar fountain, or wiggler (£16.57, Amazon), is one of the easiest and most affordable ways to do this.

‘If you have a pond or water feature, mosquitoes will use it. Still water is what they need to breed. A small solar fountain or submersible pump that keeps water moving continuously breaks the breeding cycle completely without any chemicals or harm to wildlife. It costs around £20 to £40 and is one of the most effective long-term interventions for a garden that includes standing water,’ explains Mosh Latifi, Co-Owner, EcoCare Pest Management.

Not only will a solar fountain stop your bird bath from turning into a stagnant breeding ground, but its relaxing trickles also mean it becomes a budget water feature idea for your garden, too. DIY water features have been a huge trend for 2026, and this simple hack feeds beautifully into the trend, whilst keeping your garden birds happy and healthy.

Birds also prefer moving water as it looks more similar to the streams they visit in the wild. Birds not only use bird baths to wash, but to play as well, and a solar fountain makes your bird bath more stimulating.

You still will have to clean your bird bath regularly, and during mosquito season, it is recommended to change the water in your bath every couple of days. I also recommend adding a copper disc to your bird bath (you can get one for £9.98 on Amazon) as this helps reduce algae buildup, which is also harmful to birds.

Solar fountains are affordable, will make your bird bath more visually stimulating for you and your garden birds, and, most importantly, will prevent mosquitoes from breeding. It’s a genuine win-win.

Sunflowers are grown for their blooms, so sunflowers not flowering is a big problem. There are many possible factors, so getting to the root of the problem may require some trial and error. However, solve the issue and you'll hopefully be rewarded with beautiful blooms and will be able to avoid the same problems next year.

Setting yourself up for success when you first plant your sunflower seeds is vital in ensuring blooms, though it is not a guarantee. 'Sunflowers are easy for beginners to grow and often germinate quickly as the temperatures increase in May,' says Chris Bonnett, founder of the online garden centre GardeningExpress. 'Sow directly outdoors around 2cm deep in a sunny location and be sure to support any taller varieties with sturdy stakes.'

1. Planted too late

Knowing when to plant sunflower seeds is the most important factor in guaranteeing sunflowers bloom. Planting too late is one of the leading causes of sunflowers not flowering, as the plant won't have enough time to grow and flower before the first frost.

First frosts vary depending on location and weather patterns, but it usually falls between the start of October and the start of November.

‘Sunflowers typically grow and flower within 70 to 100 days after planting,’ says Petar Ivanov, gardening expert from Fantastic Gardeners. Therefore, you should aim to plant sunflower seeds by the end of May at the latest to ensure plenty of time to enjoy the blooms.

2. Not enough sun

It's no surprise that sunflowers demand plenty of sunlight to bloom, but it may be more than you think.

'Sunflowers need around six to eight hours of direct sunlight, so one of the causes of sunflowers not flowering could be because they’re in too much shade. Growing sunflowers in a shady spot can produce tall, leafy plants with little to no flowers,' explains Chris Bonnett, founder of GardeningExpress.co.uk.

Thankfully, there is an easy fix for sunflowers grown in pots – move them to a spot that receives full sun throughout the day.

Unfortunately, this is more difficult with sunflowers in the ground. If the plants are still small, you may be able to relocate them – though you do run the risk of the sunflowers not bouncing back after the move. For more established sunflowers, it may just be a case of remembering to choose a sunny spot when planting your sunflowers out next year.

3. Planted too close together

Linked to the lack of sunlight, planting several sunflowers close together can cause overcrowding and shading, which can lead to sunflowers not flowering.

'Sunflowers that are planted too close together can begin to compete for sunlight, and this will limit their growth. Tall, single-stem varieties should be placed one to two feet apart, with branching types needing to be further apart,' advises Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture.

If you have already planted your sunflowers too close together, it may be a good idea to thin them out. While you will get fewer flowers overall, the plants that remain will be healthier and more beautiful.

4. Too much nitrogen

Sunflowers are hungry plants that benefit from regular feeding. However, using the wrong fertiliser can lead to your sunflowers not flowering.

'Avoid fertilisers that are rich in nitrogen. Nitrogen helps with leaf and stem production in plants, but if a plant receives too much nitrogen, it will push all of its energy into growing tall and producing a lot of foliage, at the expense of flowers,' says Richard Barker. 'Try using a fertiliser that does not have as high a level of nitrogen, or a higher level of phosphorus, as this helps with blooming.'

A tomato feed – like Tomatorite, available on Amazon – is a great option for promoting blooms. Feed every week or two during the growing season. You could even try making your own tomato fertiliser.

5. Late bloom variety

Not all sunflowers flower at the start of the season. Some are later-blooming varieties that can flower as late as October.

So for sunflowers not flowering in July and August, it could be that you still have a few months until you see blooms.

'Check the seed packet before planting to find out the estimated time the plant will take to bloom, and as long as they are receiving the correct care, they should bloom at their predicted time,' says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture.

Late flowering varieties include:

• Sunflower Maximiliani, available from Thompson & Morgan
• Autumn Beauty, available from Amazon
• Helianthus Lemon Queen, available from Thompson & Morgan

6. Not enough water

While sunflowers are quite drought-tolerant plants, the early heatwave this year may have stunted bud formation. 'Sunflowers develop buds, and in earlier stages of growth, they do need to be watered well. Dry weather during the earlier stages of growth can reduce flowering or at least delay flowering until later, so it’s important to keep moisture consistent until the plants are well established,' says Morris Hankinson, Managing Director of Hopes Grove Nurseries.

The best watering technique is similar to that for watering roses in hot weather. 'Aim to water deeply when the soil is dry,' says Chris Bonnett. 'Also ensure you have good drainage, as wet soil can also stress the roots.' Watering little and often is one of the most common watering mistakes and can lead to the plant rotting.

If you have issues with waterlogging, it may be time to improve drainage in your garden.

7. Pests have destoryed the buds

Pests are one of the most challenging reasons your sunflowers are not flowering, as once they've damaged the buds, it's impossible to reverse.

'If the plants look healthy but the flower buds appear swollen or fail to open, pests may be feeding inside them and leading to the sunflowers not flowering,' says Jo McGarry, luxury garden design expert at Caragh Nurseries. 'Sunflower midge larvae can damage developing buds before they bloom. The best way to avoid this is by spreading sowing times to limit impact and choosing hybrid varieties known to cope better with midge damage.'

Other pests like slugs, snails and insects can also damage young plants and destroy developing buds. 'Protecting young plants from slugs and snails is helpful, and when they are bigger and better established, protection can usually be removed,' advises Morris Hankinson, Managing Director of Hopes Grove Nurseries.

You could also try companion planting your sunflowers with snail and slug repellent plants.

Starting any flower from seed comes with its challenges, so don't be disheartened and remember there is always next year.

Did you know that you can water some plants with coffee? It’s a weird one, but it makes sense when you look at the science behind it.

We know that a few plants love coffee grounds, but watering plants with coffee is a different approach to simply mixing the grounds into your compost or mulch. I don’t mean water with pure coffee – that’s a little bit too far – but you can dilute leftover coffee with water and feed it to your acid-loving plants in moderation, with a small number of benefits.

‘While used coffee grounds have their place in the garden, liquid coffee should be used much more cautiously,’ says Andrew Jackson, award-winning garden writer, designer and creator of The New Build Manifesto. ‘Most plants simply don’t need it, and too much can alter soil chemistry or inhibit growth. If you do want to experiment, only use heavily diluted, black coffee occasionally and only on acid-loving plants.’

Here’s a list of plants you can water with coffee, with a few additional tips from the experts.

Acid-loving plant essentials

1. Camellias

I didn’t expect to see camellias on a list of plants you can water with coffee, but it actually makes a lot of sense given their origins. They're acid-loving plants that glean a few benefits from the properties coffee has to offer.

‘These woodland shrubs thrive in acidic, humus-rich soils,’ says Andrew. ‘A very occasional application of diluted coffee may provide a small nutrient boost alongside organic matter.’

Of course, coffee isn’t a substitute for other fertilisers and composts, and Andrew says you should always focus on improving the soil with leaf mould or ericaceous compost first. Levington Peat Free Ericaceous Compost from Amazon, for example, will provide your camellia with the conditions it needs to flower well.

‘Coffee should only ever be an occasional supplement, not a replacement for good soil preparation,’ Andrews adds.

2. Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons are another woodland plant that thrives in acidic soils, so they're suited to occasional watering with coffee, too.

‘Coffee grounds are best for acid-loving plants like rhododendrons and azaleas, as they prefer slightly more acidic soil,’ says Jo McGarry, luxury garden design expert from Caragh Nurseries.

‘If you've got leftover black coffee, you can use that too, but let it cool completely and dilute it with water first. I'd avoid using coffee with milk or sugar in the garden because it can attract pests and encourage mould.’

There are a few other ways to use coffee grounds in the garden, too, from composting to keeping pests at bay.

3. Blueberries

If you’ve ever learned how to grow blueberries, you’ll probably remember that they’re an acid-loving crop – so it makes sense that you can water them with coffee.

‘Blueberries thrive in acidic soil, and watering with coffee can help to maintain an acidic soil pH while providing the plant with a small boost of nitrogen,’ says Richard Barker, horticultural expert at LBS Horticulture.

‘Only water blueberries with coffee weekly or once every two weeks, as the high acidity can begin to harm the plant over time. Do not give blueberries undiluted coffee, as it needs to be watered down to a 1:1 or 1:2 ratio of water.’

There are other, arguably more effective, ways to maintain a healthy pH for your blueberries, though.

‘If you’re growing blueberries in containers, continue using ericaceous compost and rainwater wherever possible,’ says Andrew. ‘These will have a much greater impact than coffee.’

4. Hydrangeas

It’s semi-common knowledge that you can keep a hydrangea blue or red according to the acidity of the soil, so it makes sense that some hydrangeas already tolerate soils with a lower pH – and that’s exactly what watering with coffee can achieve. Just don’t expect huge results.

‘Hydrangeas growing in naturally acidic soil can benefit from the occasional application of diluted coffee, as they prefer a lower soil pH,’ says Andrew. ‘However, coffee alone won’t dramatically change flower colour, so don’t rely on it to turn pink flowers blue.’

Andrew recommends using one part cooled black coffee to four or five parts water, no more than once a month during active growth.

5. Roses

We recently talked about the benefits of coffee grounds for roses, and although you shouldn't water them with coffee directly, you can actually make your own feed using leftover grounds and water.

'Make your DIY liquid fertiliser by steeping two cups of used coffee grounds in five gallons of water overnight, and then straining to remove any solid particles,' says Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation. You'd then dilute this concentrate with water, using a ratio of 1:1.

'Your coffee ‘tea’ will mainly provide nitrogen and trace amounts of potassium and phosphorus, but your roses also need additional phosphorus and potassium, plus iron and calcium, to thrive, so it should only be used alongside other feeds to ensure your roses receive the full range of nutrients they require,' says Lucie.

Miracle-Gro Premium Rose & Shrub Continuous Release Plant Food, which you can buy from Amazon, can be used between March and September to give your roses the nutrients they need to thrive.

So, you can water plants with coffee – but only if they're acid-loving, and you water black coffee right down!

Nothing ruins a relaxing evening in my garden faster than mosquitoes buzzing about. When I hear the little whine near my ear, I'm straight back inside, as for some reason they love me, but the feeling isn't mutual.

Unbeknownst to me, I've actually been fighting back all along. I originally planted catmint by my seating area because I wanted a pollinator-friendly display, and if I'm being honest, my cat absolutely loves it too. It turns out, though, that accidental placement is exactly what experts recommend if you want this mosquito-repellent plant to help keep mosquitoes at bay.

Sitting in the planter and in pots, experts recommend giving the leaves a little rub and brushing past the ones closer to the ground every day so they're perfectly positioned to release the natural oils whenever the leaves are disturbed. Which is, in fact, the secret to making catmint work in the fight against mozzies.

How catmint can help keep mosquitoes away

Catmint (or Nepeta) contains a naturally occurring compound called nepetalactone, which experts say mosquitoes find irritating.

Gardening expert Lucie Bradley from Easy Garden Irrigation explains that the plant only releases this natural defence when its leaves are disturbed.

'It is only brushing against the plants which releases the scent to then act as a deterrent,' she explains. 'There is no point simply placing a pot containing a catmint plant on your patio and expecting it to repel mosquitoes just because it's there. It needs to be brushed against, or its leaves rubbed to release the natural oils.'

Shop mosquito repelling varieties

Where I've planted my catmint

My catmint (Nepeta 'Six Hills Giant', from £9.99 at Thompson & Morgan) in the large planter sits beside my outdoor seating where it's within reach, and I have a few more posts dotted around the patio so I naturally give them a rub or quick fly-by.

According to Richard Barker, horticulture expert at LBS Horticulture, that's exactly where the plant works best.

'Planting catmint near seating areas, patios or doorways can be beneficial because it makes the leaves easily reachable for crushing when you are outdoors. Brushing the plant as you walk by will release some of the scent into the air, but this is not as effective as crushing the leaves.'

Luxury garden designer Jo McGarry from Caragh Nurseries recommends placing it where you spend the most time outdoors. 'Catmint is a great plant to have on the patio, especially if you're looking for natural ways to make your outdoor space a bit more comfortable in summer,' she explains.

Lucie agrees that positioning is everything, recommending growing catmint close to seating areas or in borders surrounding patios where the foliage can be brushed regularly. She adds that once the oils are released, they remain effective for around 20 to 30 minutes before you'll need to disturb the leaves again.

While the mosquito-repelling properties may have persuaded me to buy more catmint, I'd happily grow it for its looks alone. The lavender-blue flower spikes soften the edges of my patio perfectly, flower for months and attract plenty of bees.

And as Jo points out, that's what makes it such a worthwhile addition. She explains that it's not a magic solution, and it won't stop every mozzie from showing up, but it's an easy plant to add alongside other ways of keeping them away (like using scent). Plus it looks lovely while it's doing the job.

It's also refreshingly low-maintenance, says Jo. 'It loves a sunny spot, copes well if you forget to water it now and then and flowers for months. If you're growing it in pots, I'd keep them close to where you sit so you can enjoy both the flowers and the extra benefit when you're eating and relaxing outside.'

Lucie also recommends choosing Nepeta cataria (also known as catnip), which you can pick up at Crocus for £7.99 for a 9cm pot, if mosquito deterrence is your priority, as it contains particularly high levels of nepetalactone, while the popular 'Walker's Low' variety, from £8.99 at Crocus, offers beautiful lavender-blue flower spikes and the same easy-going nature.

Whether you're battling mosquitoes or simply looking for one of the best low-maintenance container plants to grow, catmint ticks an impressive number of boxes. It's a beautiful cottage garden plant, it's easy to care for, and it's wildlife-friendly.

So, if rubbing a few leaves before settling down outside helps keep the mozzies away, that's a gardening trick I'll happily keep up all summer.

Did you know that birds can’t sweat? Me neither, which is why I’ve asked wildlife experts what we should do to help our feathered friends during the summer and reduce their risk of overheating.

If you’re someone who likes to attract birds to a garden, you may have noticed a few of your visiting birds struggling a little in the heat. This summer has been a scorcher, with less rain than usual, hence the importance of supporting birds in hot weather.

As birds don’t sweat, they use other methods, like panting, to help them stay cool. But if you want to lend a helping hand, too, here are the garden adjustments wildlife experts recommend.

Why don't birds sweat?

Birds don’t have sweat glands, which is why they can’t sweat as we do. Instead, they evaporate water via their respiratory tract, which means they pant. Birds are warm-blooded, with most maintaining an internal temperature of around 40 degrees Celsius, and panting is one way they regulate their body temperature when the mercury spikes.

‘Sweating would actually be less effective for them because their feathers provide insulation and would make it difficult for moisture to evaporate efficiently,’ explains Richard Scholfield, Wildlife Expert at Woodlands.co.uk.

‘One of the most common ways birds cool down is through a behaviour called panting, where they breathe rapidly with their beaks open to increase heat loss. Some species also use a process known as gular fluttering, which involves vibrating the thin skin in their throat to boost evaporation and cooling without using as much energy as panting.’

‘You may also notice birds holding their wings slightly away from their bodies to allow air to circulate their skin, or seeking shade during the hottest part of the day. Many species will bathe more frequently in warm weather, using water to cool down and keep their feathers in good condition.’

What are the signs a bird is overheating?

While birds are experts at regulating their own temperature, there are instances where they overheat, and this can sometimes prove fatal. Prolonged exposure to extreme heat can cause heat stress, exhaustion and dehydration. So, it can be helpful to recognise the signs of overheating.

‘If you think a bird is overheating, check for panting, wings held out from the body and fluffed feathers. Birds that are too hot may appear sluggish, remain on the ground, or lose their balance when trying to perch,' explains Lucy Taylor, a wildlife expert from Vine House Farm.

If you notice a bird struggling, provide cool, fresh water in a shallow dish, and ensure your garden has shade. You should not handle the bird unless it is an emergency, and consult a local wildlife rescue for help.'

How to support birds during summer

If you want your wildlife garden to be able to support birds in hot weather, you need to provide both shade and water. Consider planting plants that provide shade, such as silver birch trees, and ensure you have a bird bath (£30, B&Q) that you regularly clean and refill with fresh water.

‘To support birds during the heat, you should leave out water for them to use. Birds will drink the water and bathe in it, which helps them cool down. You do not necessarily need a bird bath for this, as a shallow dish will work as long as it is stable and cleaned regularly. Adding a few small stones is also helpful, as this gives birds somewhere to perch. Place the water in the shade if possible, and top it up daily. As bacteria and fungi thrive in the heat, you will need to clean bird baths more often. Use hot, soapy water or a mild disinfectant, rinse thoroughly and allow the bath to dry before refilling,’ says Lucy.

Richard also points out the importance of not disturbing nesting birds. Not only is it illegal to interfere with their nests under the Wildlife & Countryside Act 1981, but it can cause excess stress and increase the risk of overheating.

‘Creating shady areas in the garden can also make a big difference. Trees, shrubs, hedges, and dense planting shelter birds from direct sunlight and help them conserve energy. Avoid disturbing nesting or resting birds during very hot weather, as unnecessary activity can increase their risk of overheating,’ he says.

What you need

If you love seeing birds visit your garden, it's important to make your outdoor a hospitable envrionment, whatever the weather.

Forget chemicals and copper tape and beer traps aplenty; did you know that birds will get rid of slugs in a garden?

Yes, we all know that slugs are one of the biggest frustrations for gardeners, capable of stripping hostas, dahlias and young vegetable seedlings in a matter of days. While there are plenty of ways to get rid of slugs, though, not everyone wants to rely on pellets or spend evenings picking them off by hand.

Instead, encouraging natural predators into your garden can provide an effective, wildlife-friendly way to reduce slug numbers. Especially as several familiar garden birds feed on slugs and snails as part of their diet anyway.

Helping to create a healthier garden ecosystem while supporting local wildlife? It sounds like the perfect solution to a very sluggy problem (particularly if you tend to grow the plants that slugs love). So, how to go about doing it like a pro?

Attracting birds that will get rid of slugs for you

The key to attracting birds that will get rid of slugs in a garden is making your outdoor space somewhere these birds want to visit regularly. From leaving leaf litter to planting the right shrubs, a few simple changes can help attract birds that will happily do some of the hard work for you.

1. Encourage slug-eating birds to visit

Not all garden birds eat slugs, but several common species are known to snack on them while foraging.

Charlotte Ambrose, one of the Wildlife Experts at the RSPB, says, ‘There are quite a few garden birds that will eat snails and slugs. Song thrushes are probably the one most well-known for eating snails, although like blackbirds they do eat both snails and slugs. Smaller garden birds such as wrens and dunnocks may also help keep snail numbers down in your garden, as both are known to eat small snails (although not a top choice).’

While it is important to note that birds alone won’t eliminate every slug, attracting species that naturally feed on them can help keep populations at more manageable levels over time.

Garden bird essentials

2. Make your garden a natural feeding ground

Rather than keeping your garden overly tidy, leave areas where birds can forage for insects and molluscs.

Charlotte explains that ‘all these species have similar foraging styles, rummaging through leaf litter and turning leaves over in search of a wide range of insects as well as molluscs.

Instead of raking up leaves and disposing of them, make leaf litter piles, and plant wildlife-friendly plants like holly, spindle and common dogwood to encourage them to visit your gardens all year round.’

As well as picking up something like a red-barked dogwood from Crocus, then, remember that leaf litter piles create valuable habitat for wildlife while giving birds somewhere to search for food. The trick is to make your garden attractive throughout the seasons.

3. Provide food, water and use a citrus fruit trap

Alongside wildlife-friendly planting, offering birds the basics will encourage them to spend more time in your garden.

Richard Green, bird feeding specialist at Kennedy Wild Bird Food & Pet Supplies, says, ‘Start by making sure you have the essentials, like food, water, and shelter. Planting berry-producing shrubs such as hawthorn, ivy, and cotoneaster is a simple way to encourage visits year-round, even during colder months. And adding a birdbath or shallow water source helps birds stay hydrated and cool, especially in warm weather.’

We quite like this pebble bird bath from Crocus if you fancy something different!

Try these berry producing plants

Richard also recommends a simple trick that can help birds find slugs more easily.

‘Using citrus-fruit traps is a fantastic, natural alternative for pest control in the garden. Cutting an orange or grapefruit in half and placing the halves throughout your garden can serve a dual purpose,’ he says.

‘Birds are drawn to the fruit, and slugs are attracted to the leftover rinds. Once the slugs gather, the birds will return to eat them, creating an effective and eco-friendly way to manage pests.’

FAQs

Combined with wildlife-friendly planting and a reliable source of food and water, encouraging slug-eating birds into your garden is one of the simplest ways to let nature deal with this particularly pesky problem for you (this writer swears by it, quite frankly).

Of course, it won’t replace other methods entirely (a little copper tape can go a long way). That being said, it can reduce the number of slugs reaching your prized plants. And, even better, it will do so while making your garden a richer habitat for wildlife, making it a real win-win approach!

This summer, I’ve been absolutely charmed by one plant that’s woven itself around my mum’s garden: a delicate, creeping sedum.

I’ve always been an advocate for learning how to grow sedums, because they’re climate-resilient plants and a hit with pollinators, but I was stunned by the volume of sedum in my mum’s garden – and how it all started from one plant.

As it turns out, some sedums are self-seeding, which means they’ll expand your collection for you – and my mum has very cleverly divided parts of the plant up and scattered it in her borders, planters and even gravel for a wild, naturalistic look. Here’s why I’ll be taking a leaf (a succulent one) out of her book.

White stonecrop (Sedum album) is the drought-tolerant plant my mum began her sedum collection with. It produces masses of tiny white flowers during the summer, and the succulent leaves are beautiful in their own right – bean-shaped, green, pink and purple. The closest I’ve found on the internet are these Sedum album plants from Etsy.

I first spotted white stonecrop growing in a small pot on the gravel area of my mum’s garden, spilling over the edges as a beautiful trailing plant. Then, I noticed that the succulent foliage was continuing onto the gravel itself, sewing itself between the stones. It sort of reminded me of Cath Kidston’s patio garden, in which Erigeron grows between the cracks and gaps in the pavers. My mum said the white stonecrop has been popping up everywhere, self-seeding itself all over the gravel.

'For smaller spaces or gravel gardens, white stonecrop (Sedum album) is excellent,' says Andrew Jackson, award-winning garden writer, designer and creator of The New Build Manifesto. 'It self-seeds readily into gaps between paving and walls, creating a living carpet that’s both drought-tolerant and attractive to pollinators.'

Then, my mum pointed me in the direction of her garden border, where a fizz of the same delicate flowers was lining the area by her bug house. The sedum was growing happily there, too, from a section of the original plant that my mum had divided.

There was also a small white stonecrop plant growing in a wooden crate, which looked right at home beneath her iconic succulent planter. My mum truly is the queen of succulent-growing – even inside, her alpine arrangements are thriving – and she’s mastered the art of growing succulents outdoors, too.

White stonecrop is the variety my mum grows, but there are a few other self-seeding sedums that will spread in a similar way.

'Biting stonecrop (Sedum acre) is another tough native species that happily colonises sunny, free-draining spots, producing bright yellow flowers that are loved by bees,' suggests Andrew. You can order a Sedum acre plant from Thompson & Morgan.

'The real benefit of self-seeding sedums is that they soften hard edges and gradually knit a garden together without becoming invasive,' Andrew adds.

Other sedums can be easily divided and planted up around the garden.

'Sedum 'Autumn Joy' is a favourite because it brings colour later in the year when lots of other flowers are starting to fade,' says Jo McGarry, luxury garden design expert from Caragh Nurseries. 'While it doesn't self-seed quite as freely as some of the smaller stonecrops, it forms larger clumps that are easy to divide and spread around the garden.'

Get the look

Self-seeding sedums like white stonecrop are a fantastic way to achieve naturalistic planting without lifting a finger. Plus, they're brilliant for pollinating insects and summer colour.

Not every neighbour dispute starts with a major landscaping project - more often than not, it's the everyday garden habits that annoy neighbours. From mowing the lawn at the crack of dawn and letting hedges creep over the fence to installing outdoor lighting that shines into your neighbour's garden, small oversights can quickly become recurring irritations.

While these habits are rarely intentional, repeated noise, neglected planting and poorly positioned lighting can all create tension and build up over time. The good news is that most of these issues are easy to avoid with a little forward planning and regular maintenance.

Just as there are certain garden features that can cause disputes, the way you use and maintain your outdoor space can be just as important. To help you avoid the biggest neighbourly bugbears, we asked gardening and property experts to reveal the issues most likely to cause complaints, and what you can do to keep the peace.

1. Letting hedges and trees take over boundaries

'The biggest causes of neighbour disputes are usually plants that cross boundaries or start affecting how someone else can use their garden,' explains Liam Cleary, gardening expert at Old Railway Line Garden Centre.

Overgrown hedges are also a common issue when they begin blocking light, taking up too much space or becoming difficult to maintain. 'Trees that grow too large for their original position, drop excessive leaves or have roots affecting nearby areas can also become a source of frustration for those nearby,' adds Liam.

While it might be tempting to cut back your neighbour's hedges that extend across a boundary, there are some rules worth knowing first, as you could even be breaking the law in your own back garden. 'You have the legal right to prune branches or roots back to the boundary line; however, you should not step onto your neighbour's land without their permission while doing so, as this can be classed as trespassing,' warns Richard Barker, horticultural expert at LBS Horticulture.

The plant material cut off technically belongs to the plant's owner, so once trimmed, you should offer them back to your neighbour. 'If they do not want these, you are responsible for disposing of them and cannot throw them back over the fence,' adds Richard.

Shop hedge trimming gear (if your neighbour agrees)

2. Allowing fast-growing climbers to run wild

Climbing plant ideas can add plenty of character to a garden, but when they're not kept under control, they can quickly become a source of tension between neighbours.

'Climbing plants can cause problems when they're not kept under control, especially if they start spreading onto fences or outbuildings that don't belong to the homeowner who planted them,' says Liam.

Fast-growing climbers, like ivy or wisteria, can cause issues if left unchecked. 'They can cling to brickwork, block guttering and spread under roof tiles, causing costly structural damage to shared walls,' warns Richard.

So what can you do if a climbing plant starts crossing a boundary? 'You're allowed to prune any part of a climbing plant that crosses your boundary line,' explains Richard. 'If plants have caused significant damage, your neighbour may be liable for the repair costs.'

Prevention is often the easiest solution. 'Fast-growing plants, self-seeding varieties and bamboo are also worth keeping an eye on because they can quickly spread beyond where they were originally planted,' adds Liam. Regularly checking growth and training climbers onto the structure they're intended to cover can help prevent problems developing.

3. Letting your garden become untidy

While a garden doesn't need to be tended to daily, a messy garden is among the garden habits that annoy neighbours.

'Garden maintenance can become a point of tension when lawns, borders or planting areas are left unmanaged for long periods,' says Liam. 'Issues such as weeds spreading through seeds, plants growing through fencing, branches hanging into neighbouring gardens and garden waste accumulating along boundaries can all create avoidable problems.'

The good news is that keeping on top of the basics can prevent most issues from escalating. 'With weeds, prevention is usually easier than removal,' adds Liam. This involves keeping borders covered with mulch and removing weeds before they set seed, which can help reduce the chance of them spreading.

'A tidy garden doesn't need to be perfectly maintained, but it does need some basic upkeep to stop plants becoming someone else's problem,' Liam says.

That said, it's worth approaching the situation with understanding. Richard recommends having a conversation with your neighbour in the first instance: 'A neglected garden can be the result of someone being physically unable to cope with the upkeep required, and they may need help.'

Rather than making the conversation about the state of their garden, focusing on the impact - such as plants spreading or damage to shared boundaries - can help keep things neighbourly.

4. Hosting loud garden parties or making noise at antisocial hours

We naturally spend more time in our gardens during summer, but with neighbours also enjoying their gardens and keeping windows open, noise can travel much further than you might expect.

'Beyond the visual, it is the behavioural habits that can be harder to address but just as damaging,' says Katie Cromwell, founder and director of No. 86 Estate Agency in Swansea. 'Loud parties, regular late-night gatherings or persistent noisy DIY at weekends create a reputation for a property that buyers can pick up on.'

Whether it's mowing the lawn, using a pressure washer at the crack of dawn or hosting a late-night BBQ, being mindful of the time can go a long way towards keeping the peace. If you are planning a larger gathering, giving neighbours a quick heads-up beforehand is a simple gesture that's often appreciated.

5. Watering your garden without thinking about next-door

It might not be the first thing you think of, but where your sprinkler or hose is pointing can affect more than your own garden. Sprinklers that spray over the fence, or hoses that repeatedly soak shared boundaries, can create problems with neighbouring gardens without even realising it.

'If your neighbour's garden watering is leading to an excessive amount of runoff or overspray, this can cause problems in your own garden, such as oversaturated soil, root rot and fungal diseases,' says Richard.

If your garden is at a lower level than your neighbours, excess water can naturally pool on your property and drown plants.

Repeatedly soaking a shared fence can cause damage, too. 'If they are soaking the fence when watering, this can make the wood rot and encourage mould growth,' adds Richard. 'You should begin by talking to them about redirecting their hose or adjusting their sprinklers so it does not affect your garden or fencing.'

6. Installing outdoor lighting that shines into neighbours' homes

If you're wondering whether neighbours can complain about outside lighting, the answer is unfortunately yes. Security and feature lighting is increasingly common, but poorly positioned fixtures can quickly become a sore point.

'Harsh, poorly positioned security lighting that floods a neighbour's garden is something buyers notice and ask about, particularly in the evening,' says Katie. 'It suggests an unresolved tension that they may inherit.'

Luckily, the fix is straightforward and low-cost. 'Replace directional security lights with motion-activated alternatives that are angled inward rather than outward. It costs very little and removes a potential source of dispute,' advises Katie.

Shop garden lights that won't annoy neighbours

7. Leaving bins or garden waste where they affect neighbours

First impressions count, and bins are often the first thing a neighbour or visitor will see. If you've ever wondered whether neighbours can leave their bins outside your house, you're not alone - where bins are stored between collections can also become a common source of frustration.

Katie says this is a bigger factor than most homeowners realise. 'Bins left permanently on display at the front affect first impressions before anyone has even knocked on the door.'

Katie's advice is simple. 'Move them out of sight where possible, and look at whether a bin store can be added permanently. Even a simple wooden screen makes a significant difference to how the front of a property presents.'

The same logic applies to garden waste left along a shared boundary, which Liam flags as an avoidable source of tension if it's allowed to build up over time. Garden maintenance can become a point of tension when lawns, borders or planting areas are left unmanaged for long periods,' he says. 'The best approach is to check your garden regularly.'

FAQs

Most of the garden habits that annoy neighbours are easy to avoid with a little planning and regular upkeep. Tackling small issues early can help prevent unnecessary complaints and keep your garden enjoyable for everyone.

With summer in full swing, most of us will be spending more time than ever in the garden. And it turns out that we’re not the only ones enjoying the great outdoors. In fact, home and pest experts are warning that rat activity has been peaking in heatwave conditions, posing a serious threat to our gardens.

By now, it’s clear that this has been a summer like no other. Since late May, we’ve experienced week-long heatwaves and seen temperatures soar to record-breaking heights. Most of us have likely been worrying about how to keep our homes cool during these hot spells, but experts say it’s time to turn our attention outside in a bid to stop rats in the garden.

‘Rats are active throughout the year, but activity can increase during the summer months because the warmer weather creates ideal conditions for feeding and breeding,’ warns Kara Gammell, Home Insurance expert at MoneySuperMarket.

‘With this summer being extra hot and dry, our gardens are more appealing to rats. They are more likely to venture closer to homes and gardens as they search for water sources or food,’ she adds. We all know rats are a nuisance, but they can cause serious destruction if not dealt with, especially when it comes to outdoor wiring and garden appliances during the summer months.

‘Rat’s teeth never stop growing, so to keep them at a comfortable length and maintain their ability to eat properly, they need to gnaw on hard materials – which, unfortunately, includes wires,’ explains Adam Wilkins, managing director of Lighting Legends. ‘During the summer months, we tend to spend more time outdoors using garden lighting or electric lawn appliances, which often have exposed cables. These can be easily accessible to rats and may be used as something to gnaw on.’

‘Outdoor wiring is particularly vulnerable because it’s commonly hidden beneath decking, inside sheds, or behind outdoor kitchens and garden buildings. And these are places where rats feel safe from predators,’ adds Laurence Barnard, Country Business Manager at BASF Pest Control Solutions.

‘Once rodents discover these sheltered areas, cables can quickly become damaged through repeated gnawing,’ he adds. So, even if you’ve never seen a rat in your garden, it’s wise to check your appliances and garden wiring for hidden signs.

If your outdoor wiring has been damaged, you might be wondering how serious this can be. And, you’re likely asking yourself how to keep rats away from your garden appliances. I asked the experts all you need to know.

The consequences of damaged wires

From outdoor lighting ideas to lawn care equipment, you’ll likely have more wired appliances in your garden that you initially realise. So it’s important to ensure they stay in good condition, especially as this summer has the perfect conditions for a surge in rat activity – ‘we can expect to see a higher than average volume of rats in the summer, particularly during prolonged periods of hot, dry weather,’ explains Laurence.

Many pests just cause aesthetic damage to our gardens, but chewed wires can carry serious consequences. ‘Once the protective insulation has been stripped away, exposed wiring can create a serious fire risk, particularly if it comes into contact with combustible materials such as timber structures, fencing or dry garden debris,’ says Laurence.’

‘Damaged wiring can also cause outdoor lighting, water features, electric gates and other garden appliances to fail unexpectedly, often leading to expensive repairs,’ he adds. And, from a home insurance point of view, the costs will just keep rising.

‘Standard home insurance typically won’t cover pest infestations because insurers view it as a maintenance issue rather than a sudden, unforeseen event like a fire or storm,’ explains Kara. ‘That means the cost of removing rats – or repairing the damage to your garden appliances – will likely come straight out of your own pocket.’

‘Some insurers do offer home emergency cover as an optional extra, and this can sometimes include pest removal. But don't assume you're fully protected,’ she adds. ‘This type of cover generally won't pay out for any damage rats cause to your property, and outbuildings such as sheds and garages are also often excluded.’

How to stop rats damaging your garden appliances

If rats get to your garden wires, you’ll likely be left with damaged equipment and a big bill to pay, so it’s important to keep your garden undesirable for them. ‘Rats may be small, but the damage that they can cause can be huge,’ says Kara. ‘Taking preventative steps to keep rodents out is far cheaper – and far less stressful – than dealing with an infestation once they've moved in.’

In sunny spells, rats are drawn to our homes in search of food and water. If they can’t find what they’re looking for, they’ll likely leave your garden in peace. ‘Keep rubbish secure and out of reach of any rats and avoid leaving food waste outdoors or exposed in any way. Stay on top of maintenance, too. Dripping taps and leaking pipes will provide a water source for rats,’ says Kara.

Rats are also known to seek shelter in gardens, so be sure to keep this in mind when tending to your garden. ‘Keeping lawns and vegetation well maintained, removing piles of debris and blocking access beneath decking or into sheds will reduce the number of places rats can shelter and nest,’ says Laurence.

As well as keeping rats away from your garden, it’s also vital to make sure your electrical wires are protected. ‘There are several ways to help prevent rats from chewing through wires during the summer,’ says Andrew. ‘Protective cable coverings or anti-rodent tape is a good place to start, they can make cables more difficult to gnaw and help reduce damage.’ This option from Amazon should do the trick.

‘If possible, clipping wires higher up and off the ground can also help make them less accessible to rats. This is easier to do with equipment installed above ground level, such as outdoor lighting and security cameras,’ Andrew explains.

Or, opt for stylish wireless garden appliances – like battery-powered lamps – to keep your outdoor space feeling neat and cosy.

Thames Water has just announced a hosepipe ban, following a string of other regions falling under the restrictions. It’s a sad day for my hose reel, and a host of other gardeners who I’ve heard asking one question in particular: Can you use an outside tap during a hosepipe ban?

Well, the good news is that hosepipe ban rules don’t prohibit the use of outside taps completely – it’s more about how you use them, and you’ll need to be aware of the dos and don’ts if you want to avoid stumbling into fines.

So, under what circumstances can you use an outside tap during a hosepipe ban? I consulted the experts to find out.

What you'll need

So, can you use an outside tap during a hosepipe ban?

Absolutely – but, as you’d expect, you can’t use a hose with one. You’ll need to find other ways to water your garden during a hosepipe ban instead – and I’d recommend making sure you’ve got a big watering can in stock, like this 10-litre Ward Watering Can from Argos.

‘Homeowners are allowed to use an outdoor tap during a hosepipe ban, so long as they’re using it to fill a hand-held container, like a watering can or bucket,’ says Craig Pennington, managing director at Universal Tankers. ‘In fact, this can be a great way to keep on top of watering your garden during a ban.’

That means sprinklers, pressure washers and hosepipes are out, and manual watering is in.

‘As the aim of a hosepipe ban is to prevent excessive water use, the restriction applies specifically to continuous water usage,’ explains Craig. ‘Therefore, connecting your outside tap to a hosepipe, sprinkler or pressure washer is strictly prohibited.’

If you’re wondering how to look after your lawn during a hosepipe ban, the same rules apply.

‘If a hosepipe ban is in place, you can use a tap to fill up a watering can, so it is still possible to water your lawn – and it uses significantly less water than a sprinkler or hosepipe,’ says Chris McIlroy, lawn expert at The Grass People.

‘Ensure you still water in the morning, focusing on giving it a deep soak a couple of times a week, instead of little and often, as this will make the most of your watering efforts.’

So, a hosepipe ban cracks down on exactly what you’d expect: hosepipes. That means you can use an outside tap during a hosepipe ban, as long as you use a watering can or bucket to collect the water.

Many of us have accepted that mosquitoes are just an annoying, biting side effect of summer, but what if I told you that this doesn’t have to be the case? Did you know there are actually certain features you can add to your garden to make it mosquito repellent?

During this time of year, I’m always looking for ways to get rid of mosquitoes. But recently I’ve been considering the preventive measures we can use to keep these blood-thirsty pests at bay.

Using scents mosquitoes hate is one effective way to deter mosquitoes, but garden experts are taking it one step further. They’ve revealed five features to turn your outside space into a mosquito repellent garden.

1. Plant mosquito-repelling plants

If you want to lean into scent deterrents, ensuring you have strongly scented plants such as lavender (£7.99, Thompson & Morgan), lemon balm (£2.99, Thompson & Morgan) and rosemary (£7.99, Crocus) is a must. Mosquitoes have highly sensitive scent receptors, and certain strong smells can overwhelm and confuse them, leading them to avoid that area.

‘Combining different plants that naturally discourage mosquitoes while also attracting their predators is a simple and effective way to make your garden less inviting to these unwanted visitors,’ explains Amber Tunney, Plant Buyer at Cherry Lane Garden Centres.

‘Mosquitoes tend to avoid strongly scented plants, particularly when their leaves are brushed or crushed. Varieties such as lavender, lemon balm, basil, rosemary and mint can all help create a fragrant barrier while also adding colour, texture and useful herbs to the garden.

‘A great way to make the most of these plants is to group them in pots or borders around patios, decking and outdoor dining areas, where their scent is most likely to be released as people move around.’

2. Use a fan

You should also consider using one of the best fans when hosting outdoors. Not only will this help you stay cool on hot summer evenings, but the strong breeze makes it harder for mosquitoes to fly (they’re small, weak fliers) and can interrupt their ability to follow scent.

‘A fan positioned at table height directed across the seating area is one of the most underrated mosquito deterrents available. Mosquitoes are weak fliers and cannot navigate in airflow above one mile per hour. A small desk fan or oscillating garden fan creates a permanent barrier around where you are sitting that no insect repellent can match for consistency. Position it low so it disrupts the air at the height mosquitoes fly rather than above head level where it has no effect,’ says Mosh Latifi, Co-Owner, EcoCare Pest Management.

3. Embrace wildlife gardens

An excellent way to deter and get rid of mosquitoes is by having a wildlife-friendly garden. Wildlife gardens house predators such as bats, birds and frogs, which eat mosquitoes.

‘Many garden-friendly animals are natural mosquito predators, including bats, frogs, dragonflies and house martins. By creating a wildlife-friendly garden with native flowering plants, bird nesting boxes, bat boxes or a pond with moving water, you can encourage these helpful species to visit and naturally keep mosquito numbers down,’ says Amber.

Mosh agrees, emphasising the benefits of attracting bats to your garden.

‘A single bat can consume up to 3,000 insects in a single night, mosquitoes included. Fixing a bat box to a north or east-facing wall or tree at least four metres high costs under £20 and attracts common pipistrelle bats that will actively reduce the insect population in your garden each evening. It takes a season for bats to discover and adopt a box, but it is one of the few genuinely long-term natural solutions available,’ he says.

4. Consider your garden lighting

Interestingly, your garden lighting ideas can impact the insects you attract to your outdoor space, as mosquitoes are attracted to cool-toned lights.

‘The lights you choose for your garden can either attract or deter insects. Mosquitoes are drawn to cool-toned lights, which they see more easily, especially during the evening hours,’ says Melissa Quinney, Gardening Expert at Cabin Master.

‘For a less inviting atmosphere, opt for warm-toned, yellow lights (with a colour temperature between 2,200K and 2,700K). These are much less visible to insects and will help keep your outdoor space less buggy.’

5. Remove standing water

One of the most important things you can do is remove standing water from your garden. If you want to keep mosquitoes away from your bird bath, adding a solar fountain (like this £9.99 Amazon fountain) is a great way to keep water moving.

‘One of the most important things you can do is eliminate places where mosquitoes can breed. They only need very small amounts of standing water, so it's worth regularly checking items such as buckets, watering cans, children's toys, plant saucers and bird baths,’ says Amber

‘If you have features like bird baths, it's a good idea to refresh the water every two to three days. This helps prevent mosquitoes from laying eggs while still providing a safe source of water for visiting wildlife.’

We can’t promise that these ideas will get rid of all mosquitoes from your garden forever, but by making your garden a less desirable environment for mosquitoes, you will see a reduction in numbers.

There's nothing more beautiful than a country cottage garden – all of those gorgeous varieties that offer an untamed look that our pollinators adore too.

The best bit is that some varieties self-seed. 'Self-seeding cottage garden flowers are brilliant because they do half the work for you and help fill borders for free,' says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. 'Some will settle in happily and come back year after year, while others will gently move around the garden and surprise you in new spots.'

If you're on a budget and want to embrace these wonderful flowers, then read on to find out which self-seeding flower varieties should be top of your list.

1. Foxgloves

There's not much more quintessentially cottage garden than the foxglove, with its stunning spires of flowers that tower over other varieties; it looks wonderful against stone cottage walls.

'Whilst most foxgloves are biennials, producing roots and foliage in their first year and flowers in their second year, once these plants start to self-seed you will naturally create the illusion of blooms every year from then on,' says Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation.

According to Lucie, a single foxglove can produce up to two million minuscule, dust-like seeds once their distinctive tubular, bell-shaped blooms have faded. 'When they finish flowering from July onwards, their seed pods form, dry and crack open in late August or early September to scatter their seeds, which are light enough for the wind to naturally disperse them around your garden borders,' shares Lucie.

There are quite a few different colours to choose from; we love the colour of this Suttons Apricot foxglove, currently £5.99 for a one-litre pot from Gardening Express.

For a more classic look, consider the Dalmatian Mixed variety, which comes in pots or as plug plants, from £7.99, Thompson & Morgan.

2. Forget-me-knots

'For shadier spots, I'd look at forget-me-nots,' suggests Liam Cleary, gardening expert at the Old Railway Line Garden Centre. 'They're brilliant at filling awkward gaps beneath shrubs or around trees, and because they self-seed so freely, you end up with carpets of blue each spring with very little effort.'

Richard Barker, horticultural expert at LBS Horticulture, agrees, 'Most varieties of forget-me-not are biennial, so they will self-seed. Although seedlings can be pulled up and replanted, you can collect seeds from the plant. When the seed pods turn brown, gently snip them off the stems and place them into a paper bag. Shake the bag to separate the seeds from the chaff, and then store them until ready for planting.'

You can buy forget-me-knots, and we love Amazon's Forget Me Knot Myosotis alpine mix; you get six large plug plants for £14.99.

3. Nigella

Nigella, sometimes called 'love-in-a-mist ', produces seeds that can be collected easily from the seed pods.

Richard explains, 'When the pods turn brown and papery, this indicates that the seeds are ripe and ready to collect. Alternatively, you can leave the seed pods on the plant, and they will eventually dry out and split open to scatter seeds across your garden. However, it is best to collect seeds yourself because the plant can develop a long taproot, which makes it harder to move them once established.'

The sky blue variety of Nigella is perhaps the most well-known. Crocus sell Miss Jekyll seeds, three packets for £6; they're an easy-to-grow variety and great for beginner gardeners. We also love the pastel pink version, Miss Jekyll Rose, 1000 seeds for £1.69, Amazon; they will flower from July to approximately September and love full sun.

4. Lupins

Lupins are a hardy perennial that, once established, is low maintenance. They come in a great selection of colours too.

'Their pea-like flowers are a rich source of pollen, which makes them great pollinator magnets with their tall spires,' says Lucie. 'With long tap roots making then drought tolerant and prolific self-seeders, they will naturally populate your garden, forming gorgeous, free-flowing spaces of colour in May and June, and repeat flowering in August if you have the chance to cut back the spires once faded.'

Lucie recommends the West Country varieties for their robustness; Persian Slipper is one that has blue flowers, £12.99 for a 9cm pot, Crocus, and the bi-coloured Tequila Flame, £27.99 for three established plants, Amazon.

5. Calendula

Calendula is one of those useful plants that has healing properties – it's anti-inflammatory and soothes and heals skin; you can often find it in creams to heal minor wounds.

As a plant, it loves full sun and can do well in poor soil, so it's rather forgiving and easy to grow.

'Calendula is one I'd recommend to almost anyone as a self-seeder,' says Liam. 'It flowers for months, the pollinators love it, and it's incredibly generous when it comes to self-seeding. You will likely find fresh seedlings popping up the following spring without you having to put in any effort whatsoever.'

It's mostly known for its yellowy orange flower heads that are rather daisy-like; you can buy 100 seeds for £2.79 of the English marigold variety from Crocus. For a mix of orange and yellow colours, have a look at Amazon's Calypso mixed mini plug plants; you get 20 for £15.99.

Cottage garden shopping essentials

These self-seeding plants will give you so much joy in your cottage garden over the coming years. Invest in them now, and they'll bring you colour and free flowers to boot.

Potted plants are all fun and games until the drained compost starts marking your patio. Mine’s been afflicted by my planter in recent weeks – and now, I’m trying to figure out the best way to remove compost stains from a patio.

Containers are game-changers for small or paved outdoor spaces, but if the pots and planters are sitting directly on a patio, they’ll leak or even puddle when you water them. That’s the case for my vegetable planter – the drainage holes are in the legs, so they carve lovely rivers of compost-y water along my patio whenever I water it.

After I finally buy a tray for the planter, I need to tackle those stains and figure out the best way to clean the paving slabs – so I asked the experts for their take on the best ways to remove compost stains from a patio.

What you'll need

1. Remove loose debris

Before you start scrubbing away at your compost-stained pavers, it’s worth giving it a chance to dry. It makes the first step in removing compost stains from a patio a lot easier.

‘Allow any wet compost to dry before lifting it away with a broom, soft brush or plastic scraper,’ advises Morgan Smith, director at porcelain garden tiles company Pegseo Stone. ‘ Removing the loose material first stops it turning into sludge and spreading across the surrounding slabs.’

A soft broom like this Gardeners Mate one from Amazon ought to do the trick, but a plastic scraper like Morgan suggested will help loosen up tougher debris. Or, use the metal scraper on this Charles Bentley 2 in 1 Outdoor Broom from Argos.

2. Use a mild detergent

Once the looser material has been removed, you’ll likely be left with a matt compost stain. That’s where a mild detergent, even fairy liquid, can be a good first port of call.

‘Mix warm water with a mild detergent, apply it to the affected area and scrub with a stiff-bristled brush, then rinse with clean water once the discolouration begins to lift,’ says Morgan.

This Faithfull Stiff Bassine Natural Material Hand Brush from B&Q is ideal (but remember to wear gloves to protect your hands from the detergent).

3. Use a patio cleaner

If that doesn’t do the job, or you just want to start with a cleaner that you know will act fast on stubborn stains, it’s worth looking into the best patio cleaners on the market (our current favourite is Algon Organic Path, Patio & Deck Cleaner, which you can order from Amazon).

‘For a mark that remains after washing, try a specialist enzyme cleaner designed to break down organic matter,’ says Morgan. ‘Follow the product directions, including the recommended amount and contact time.’

You could even pair a patio cleaner with a quality pressure washer to target tougher stains, like the WORX Hydroshot Cordless Pressure Washer from Argos (the best budget machine we've tried!).

4. Preventing future stains

Prevention is, of course, better than cure, and there are ways to keep stains minimal going forward.

'Clear spilt compost promptly and avoid leaving damp bags, pots or garden containers directly on the paving,' says Morgan. 'Regular sweeping will also stop organic debris from sitting on the surface long enough to leave a mark.'

Morgan also told me that acting early is key, once you spot the first signs of staining.

‘Compost can leave dark brown marks on patio slabs because decaying leaves and other organic material release tannins as they break down,' Morgan explains. 'These natural compounds can soak into porous paving, so treating the stain early can make it easier to remove and reduce the need for stronger cleaning products.’

Removing compost stains from a patio isn't as hard as it sounds, especially if you target them early.

I love hydrangeas, so I have planted quite a few varieties in our garden over the past few years. Usually, at this time of the year, my garden is blooming with puffball flowers of different shades, but this year's been a little different.

I've noticed my mophead hydrangea in my front border is struggling. Its once pristine white flowers have started developing brown patches, with some petals looking dry and crispy around the edges. I thought it might have been because it had simply finished flowering, but with so many of its blooms changing colour at once, I was suspicious there was something else going on.

After speaking to a few gardening experts, it turns out there are several reasons why my hydrangeas are turning brown, and thanks to this summer's prolonged hot weather, they say more hydrangeas are turning brown than ever before. So, I don't think I'm alone! Here's their advice on why it's happening and what to do about it.

1. Heat and strong sunshine

If your hydrangea has been flowering beautifully before suddenly developing brown, papery petals during a spell of hot weather, heat stress is probably to blame.

'Whilst we are experiencing heatwave conditions, hydrangeas are likely to be turning brown due to them being scorched by the intense, direct sunlight,' explains Lucie Bradley, gardening expert at Easy Garden Irrigation. She says hydrangea flowers are particularly delicate, especially mophead and lacecap varieties, with tissue-paper-thin petals that dry out quickly when exposed to prolonged sunshine.

It's not just the flowers that suffer either. Lucie says leaves can wilt, curl and develop crispy brown edges when they're exposed to too much direct sun or drying winds.

That certainly sounds like what has happened to mine. While the shrub itself still looks healthy, the blooms that catch the strongest afternoon sun are the ones browning first.

Jo McGarry, luxury garden design expert at Caragh Nurseries, agrees that placement makes a huge difference. 'Hydrangeas tend to do best somewhere with morning sun and a bit of shade during the hottest part of the day. Too much intense afternoon sun can scorch the flowers and leaves, which can cause those brown patches.'

2. Hydrangeas are thirstier than you might think

The recent dry weather has also made caring for hydrangeas in a heatwave a priority, and more specifically, watering is far more important than usual.

Lucie explains that hydrangeas have relatively shallow roots, making them particularly vulnerable when the soil dries out. During prolonged hot spells, they lose moisture through their leaves faster than they can replace it, causing the plant to go into survival mode. While many hydrangeas recover overnight after wilting, repeated drought stress eventually leaves flowers and foliage brown and crispy.

Richard Barker, horticultural expert at LBS Horticulture, says a lack of water is one of the biggest reasons hydrangea flowers deteriorate in summer. 'Hydrangeas are moisture-loving plants, and most varieties will need deep, frequent watering through summer to stop them from deteriorating. A lack of water can quickly turn flowers brown, as the plant needs consistent moisture to maintain its flowers.'

He adds that brown leaf tips often accompany browned flowers and recommends aiming for around an inch of water each week during the dry periods. While damaged blooms won't recover, a watering routine can help protect any flowers that are still healthy.

The best thing you can do is to give them a deep watering, especially during dry periods, rather than sprinkling the surface. Adding a layer of mulch (we love RocketGro's Magic Mulch, £14.99 at Amazon) around the base of the plant can help keep moisture in the soil for longer.'

Hydrangea care essentials

3. Other causes worth checking

While heat and drought are by far the most likely explanation this year, experts say there are a few other possibilities.

Lucie warns that overfeeding can cause fertiliser burn, particularly if you've applied a feed that's high in nitrogen. This often results in brown, crispy leaf edges alongside lush green growth but fewer flowers.

She also says fungal diseases such as leaf spot (which I think my plant has), botrytis blight and anthracnose can leave brown blotches on leaves and flowers. However, because these diseases thrive in warm, damp and humid conditions, they're much less likely during dry weather. Plants that are already stressed by heat can still become vulnerable, though, particularly if they're watered from overhead and the foliage remains wet.

Richard also recommends checking carefully for pests if watering and sunlight don't seem to be the issue.

'Hydrangeas can often be targeted by aphids and spider mites, which can cause damage to the flowers, leaves and stems,' he says. Spider mites can be difficult to spot, so look for fine webbing and a dusty residue beneath leaves. Neem oil or insecticidal soap (this handy spray version is easy to use, £14.99 at Amazon) can help prevent infestations from spreading.

What I'm doing to help my hydrangea recover

Lucie recommends checking the soil moisture regularly before watering and directing water at the base of the plant rather than over the leaves. She also suggests applying a 5 - 8 cm layer of organic mulch, such as compost, leaf mould or Strulch (from £19.99 at Thompson & Morgan), to keep the soil cooler and reduce moisture loss.

Because my shrub sits in a particularly sunny spot during the afternoon, I'll also be trying to give it some temporary shade whenever another heatwave arrives. Lucie says even positioning a patio parasol nearby or suspending an old sheet or shade netting above the plant between 10 am and 4 pm can help prevent further scorch. You could even pick up these cute little plant umbrellas, £11.54 at Amazon.

She also recommends removing the brown flowers completely using clean bypass secateurs (we really rate these Japanese Kimura secateurs, £24.99 at Amazon), cutting just above the first healthy pair of buds or leaves. Likewise, leaves that are more than halfway brown can be removed, but any with plenty of green should be left in place to continue producing energy for the plant.

If your hydrangea is growing in a container, simply moving it into a shadier position can make a noticeable difference. For shrubs planted in borders, though, Lucie advises waiting until autumn before relocating them, as moving a stressed hydrangea during summer can lead to transplant shock.

As disappointing as it is to see my once-white flowers turning brown, I feel reassured to know that it's probably just a response to this summer's hot weather. With plenty of deep watering, my favourite mulch and a little sun protection, I'm hoping my shrub will stay healthy and be ready to put on another cloud-like display next year.

In my humble opinion, mosquitoes are easily one of the worst things about summer. If they’ve been plaguing your patio this summer, and like me, you’ve ended up with a few nasty bites, here are five scents they hate and will keep them at bay, according to pest experts.

If you want to get rid of mosquitoes and stop them from coming back, a scent deterrent can be an excellent, chemical-free method that won’t harm your family, pets or plants.

Mosquitoes have a highly sensitive sense of ‘smell’ which they use to find hosts, breeding sites and nectar. But they find some scents overwhelming and confusing, which in turn deters them from the area, leaving you mosquito-free!

1. Citronella

Of course citronella is first on the list. Citronella candles (like Argos Home’s Scalloped Terracotta-Effect Citronella Candle, £15) are famed for their abilities to keep flies and mosquitoes at bay, as their strong scent prevents mosquitoes from finding their hosts.

‘Citronella is another popular natural mosquito repellent. It contains compounds such as citronellal, geraniol and citronellol, which help to mask the scents mosquitoes use to locate people,’ says Daniel Steward, managing director at Shield Pest Control.

‘Citronella can be applied directly to the skin in the form of sprays or lotions to provide short-term protection. It is also commonly available as candles and essential oil diffusers, which release the scent into the surrounding air to help reduce mosquito activity around patios, gardens and outdoor seating areas. While citronella can be effective, it works best in calm conditions, as wind quickly disperses the scent.’

2. Clove

Clove is also a scent that flies hate, and is great for deterring mosquitoes - as well as making your home or patio smell great in the process.

‘Clove oil [available on Amazon] contains eugenol, a compound used in professional pest products in diluted form, and is one of the most potent natural mosquito repellents available. Studies have shown it provides effective repellence for up to three hours when applied topically in a carrier oil. As a garden scent, adding a few drops to an outdoor oil burner near your seating area significantly reduces mosquito activity. The scent is strong so a little goes a long way,’ explains Mosh Latifi, Co-Owner, EcoCare Pest Management.

3. Lemon eucalyptus

The experts swear by lemon eucalyptus (£4.99, Amazon) as a powerful scent deterrent against mosquitoes. Its strong odour interferes with a mosquito’s sense of smell and makes it harder for them to detect us, humans.

‘Lemon eucalyptus' is one of the most effective natural mosquito deterrents, providing around four to six hours of protection, depending on the concentration. It contains an active ingredient called PMD, which interferes with mosquitoes' odour receptors, making it more difficult for them to detect human scent,’ says Daniel.

‘The most effective way to use lemon eucalyptus is by applying a commercial repellent containing PMD to exposed skin. Some products can also be applied to clothing, provided the label states this is safe. It is an excellent option for activities such as camping, gardening and spending evenings outdoors, when mosquitoes are often most active.’

4. Lavender

Lavender (£7.99, Crocus) is a superhero plant that will not only make your patio smell gorgeous, but deters a range of pests too. Wasps and flies also dislike the smell of lavender, whereas helpful pollinators such as bees love it - it’s a win-win choice for a garden.

You can even plant lavender in July, if you give it a little extra help settling into your garden.

‘Lavender contains linalool and linalool oxide, both of which are natural insect repellents. Mosquitoes find the scent deeply unpleasant and will avoid areas where it is concentrated. Planted lavender near a patio provides ongoing passive deterrence throughout summer, and crushed lavender flowers rubbed on pulse points provide short-term personal repellent effect. It is not as potent as citronella, but as part of a layered approach it adds meaningful protection,’ says Mosh.

4. Peppermint

Last but not least is peppermint (£9.99, Amazon). While you and I may enjoy its fresh peppery scent, mosquitoes can’t stand it and will automatically avoid an area with a strong peppermint scent.

‘Peppermint contains the strong-smelling compounds menthol and menthone, which can interfere with mosquitoes' ability to locate people,’ says Daniel.

‘Peppermint can be used in homemade sprays when properly diluted, or you can purchase commercial peppermint-based repellents and essential oil diffusers. It can also be used as a fabric spray on outdoor cushions or camping equipment, helping to keep mosquitoes at bay during time spent outside. As with other essential oils, peppermint provides relatively short-lived protection and should be reapplied regularly if used on the skin.’

If you’re sick and tired of painful mosquito bites this summer, try one of these scents to keep them at bay.

Lavender is a staple in any drought-tolerant garden, which means it’s perfectly suited to the hot weather we’re having this summer. Can you plant lavender in July, though?

Well, according to experts, you can – you’ll just need to complete a few preparatory tasks beforehand. Learning how to grow lavender is pretty easy, because it’s so low-maintenance, but it still needs a little extra help settling into the garden when the weather is hot and dry.

‘Whilst July isn’t the best time to plant Lavender, if you’ve been given a plant by a friend or need to fill an empty space and must plant during this month, then there are a few things which you can do to make the process as successful as possible and reduce the stress for your plant,’ says Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation.

So, under what conditions can you plant lavender in July? Here’s what the experts recommend.

What you'll need

1. Keep new plants well-watered

Lavender might be a hardy Mediterranean plant once established, but it'll struggle to establish itself in hot, dry weather.

’Dry weather means your plant will lose more moisture from its leaves than its roots can supply, which makes a new plant vulnerable to transplant shock and could result in your lavender wilting, dropping leaves and even struggling to survive,’ explains Lucie.

That doesn’t mean you can’t plant lavender in July, though – you can still buy the plants in a range of sizes, like English lavender ‘Hidcote’ from Crocus. You’ll just need to start by compensating for that lack of soil moisture.

‘You need to soak the root ball of the plant before transferring it to the ground, as well as fill the planting hole with water and allow it to soak into the soil prior to positioning the plant,’ Lucie advises.

After that, you’ll need to keep the soil moist (never waterlogged, since drought-tolerant plants hate sitting soggy). Lucie recommends deep watering the plant twice a week, avoiding wetting the foliage where possible, but always check the soil beforehand (a soil moisture meter like this one from Amazon can be a useful indicator).

2. Mulch with gravel

To lock some of that moisture in, Lucie also recommends mulching around the base of your lavender plant. Don’t reach for bags of organic matter mulch, though, since lavender tends to thrive in poor, free-draining soils.

‘If you use a light-coloured gravel or stones to act as mulch (don’t use organic mulches, as these can hold too much water to suit lavender), the light colour will help to reflect the strong July sunlight into the lower canopy of the plant,’ says Lucie. These Mellow Cotswold Decorative Stones from B&Q should do the trick.

If you want your lavender to flower well, you’ll also need to make you’re planting it in the correct position.

‘Ideally, lavender should be planted where it will receive at least six to eight hours of sunlight a day, or it will produce fewer (or no) blooms, and may grow leggy in attempt to reach the light,’ says Richard Barker, horticultural expert at LBS Horticulture.

3. Provide some shade

It might seem like a waste of time to shield a sun-loving, drought-tolerant plant from the sun, but new plants will benefit from a little extra protection while they establish themselves in your garden. As Lucie mentioned before, transplant shock is still a looming risk – but there are several ways to shade plants from the sun.

‘It’s best to shade your new plant over the first few weeks at mid-afternoon so it’s not damaged by the intense sunlight,’ says Lucie. ‘This can be done easily by using garden canes to support either shade netting, garden fleece or an old pale sheet above your plant to protect it from strong sunlight.’

You can order shade netting for plants online, like this Seedzbox Shade Netting from Amazon.

'If you’re looking to plant lavender in July, it’s important to try and minimise heat stress on the plant,' adds Chris Bonnett, founder of GardeningExpress.co.uk. 'Choose a time when there is no prolonged heatwave and temperatures are slightly cooler.

So, you can plant lavender in July – you'll just need to water it in well, add some gravel mulch around the base, and consider shielding it from the intense midday sun.

Companion planting is the practice of planting different plants in proximity to each other to help them grow and thrive. In light of this year’s heatwaves and the likelihood that future summers will be even hotter, shade companion planting is the clever method gardeners are turning to to ensure their plants stay protected from the hot sun.

When you think of companion planting ideas, you’re likely thinking of combinations that stop pests from destroying your garden. But with shade companion planting, these combinations consist of using hardier, taller plants to provide shade for delicate, smaller plants - and it’s one of the best ways to help heat-proof your garden.

‘One of the simplest ways to create a more resilient garden is to think about plants as a community rather than as individuals. In nature, taller trees and shrubs naturally create sheltered microclimates beneath their canopies, protecting smaller plants from the hottest afternoon sun, reducing water loss and helping the soil retain moisture. We can borrow the same principle in our own gardens,’ explains Andrew Jackson, award-winning garden writer, designer and creator of The New Build Manifesto.

Here are five combinations you can put to practice in your garden.

1. Verbena bonariensis, geraniums and heucheras

If you love cottage gardens, Andrew recommends using this planting scheme to achieve a whimsical, romantic border that remains resilient in hotter gardens. Use plants like verbena bonariensis, bronze fennel and ornamental grasses at the back, pot astrantia, hardy geraniums and foxgloves in the middle and have heucheras, alchemilla and epimedium in the front, he advises.

‘The tall, airy plants filter sunlight rather than blocking it completely, reducing heat stress while allowing enough light through for flowering plants beneath. The layered planting also helps keep the soil cooler and slows evaporation, meaning plants need less watering during dry spells,’ says Andrew.

Where to buy verbena bonariensis, geraniums and heucheras

• Verbena bonariensis, £7.99, Crocus
• Geranium 'Border Supreme' F2 - Seeds, £4.49, Thompson & Morgan
• Heuchera 'Eternal Flame', £13.99, Thompson & Morgan

2. Culver’s root and lily turf

Another beautiful combination you should consider is Culver’s root and lily turf. This striking combination of one of the best plants for clay soil and one of the best ornamental grasses for shade makes a resilient yet colourful display.

‘Culver’s Root is the ideal architectural plant for sunny garden borders, as these low-maintenance, hardy herbaceous perennials thrive in sunny borders, growing in dense clumps up to two metres high and with a spread of around one metre. To take advantage of the shade that this perennial provides, growing Lilyturf at its base will provide this small, grass-like evergreen,’ says Lucie Bradley, gardens and greenhouse expert at Easy Gardens Irrigation.

‘The partial shade-attracting ground cover protects from direct sunlight that this sun-sensitive plant prefers to protect its foliage from being bleached by strong sun rays. With both Culver’s Root and Lilyturf enjoying the same consistently moist, well-draining soil, they can be grown easily together. These two plants also complement each other in other ways, including the timing of their blooms, with the tall ‘candelabra’ style spikes of the Culver’s root appearing in mid to late summer, closely followed by the vibrant, smaller spikes of dense, bead- like flowers which appear from late summer into autumn.’

Where to buy Culver’s root and lily turf

• Veronicastrum virginicum 'Fascination', £12.99, Crocus
• Liriope muscari, £12.99, Crocus

3. Olive trees, lavender, creeping thyme

Climate-resistant planting schemes will inevitably embrace Mediterranean garden ideas. Mediterranean plants are well equipped to deal with hot, dry, poor conditions, making this one of the easiest planting combinations you can follow.

Andrew recommends planting a multi-stem olive tree or Amelanchier lamarckii at the back of your border, with either salvias, nepeta or lavender in the middle and creeping thyme, oregano or low-growing sedums.

‘Although Mediterranean plants enjoy sunshine, even they benefit from cooler root conditions. The light canopy of a small tree creates welcome shade during the hottest part of the day, while aromatic groundcover plants act as a living mulch, reducing soil temperatures and locking in moisture,’ he says.

Where to buy olive trees, lavender, creeping thyme

• Olea Europaea- Olive Trees - Half standards - Established Plants Approx 100 cm Tall, £32.99, B&Q
• Lavandula angustifolia 'Hidcote', £7.99, Crocus
• Creeping Phlox Collection, £8.99, Thompson & Morgan

4. Foxgloves and aquilegia

Foxgloves are tall and low-maintenance, making them a great choice as a shade companion plant. Plus, with grandma gardens making a comeback this summer, they’re perfectly on-trend, too.

‘Foxgloves are not only popular to include in your garden as they provide striking vertical height, with tall spires of tubular bell-shaped blooms which are magnets to beneficial pollinators whilst also being low maintenance and pest resilient, but their height also makes them ideal companion plants for other plants which are more sensitive to the sun,’ says Lucie.

‘When in full flower, from May to July, their vertical height can be used to naturally shade plants such as Aquilegia, which prefer dappled shade and usually stand between 60 to 90cm in height. With flowers appearing from mid-May until June, their blooms will overlap and make for a perfect, long-lasting display in a cottage garden. Whilst the shallow roots of the foxglove won’t compete for space with the deep taproots of aquilegia, ensuring they both can access moisture without competing, and they both prefer moist, humus-rich soil, making them ideal companion plants.’

Where to buy foxgloves and aquilegia

• Foxglove 'Dalmatian Mixed', £7.99, Thompson & Morgan
• Aquilegia vulgaris var. stellata 'Ruby Port', £9.99, Crocus

5. Birch trees, hydrangeas and tiarella

If you thought you had to say goodbye to hydrangeas because of the heat, think again. This planting scheme is perfect for creating a woodland edge in your garden, helping it stay cooler.

Andrew says to plant birch trees or serviceberry trees at the edge of your border. Then, you can plant hydrangeas, ferns and Japanese anemones in the middle, followed by hostas, tiarella or pulmonaria at the front - simply choose a combo you like!

‘These plants naturally grow along woodland edges where they receive morning sun and afternoon shade. The open canopy of birch or amelanchier provides dappled light without creating heavy shade, allowing moisture-loving plants to thrive while protecting them from scorching temperatures,’ adds Andrew.

Where to buy birch trees, hydrangeas and tiarella

• Betula alba Pendula - Silver Birch - Circa 220-250cm Tall, was £89.99, now £59.99 at Gardening Express
• Hydrangea paniculata 'Vanille Fraise', £11.99, Thompson & Morgan
• Tiarella 'Pink Skyrocket', £10.99, Crocus

‘As our summers become warmer, gardening is becoming less about finding plants that tolerate full sun and more about designing gardens that create their own favourable conditions. Layering plants by height to provide gentle shade is an easy technique that improves plant health, reduces watering and produces borders that feel softer, more natural and more resilient over time,’ Andrew concludes.

With so many combinations to try, shade companion planting is like a shortcut to a stunning yet climate-resilient garden.

A tree makes a stunning focal point in any outside space, but choose too-large a tree for a small garden, and there’s the danger that it will completely overwhelm the space. But opt for a smaller, multi-stem tree, and it can make as striking a focal point as any large tree but while still feeling in proportion with the space. And there’s the bonus of low-maintenance multi-stem trees being much easier to look after too, so what’s not to love?

‘If your home has a small garden, then multi-stem trees are one of the best trees for small spaces, offering a really simple yet effective way to create a focal point without needing to compromise on any valuable outdoor space,’ says David Denyer, flower and garden expert at Eflorist.

‘If planning a small garden, it's worth factoring in that many varieties of multi-stem tree require little maintenance in modest gardens once established, which makes them perfect for the majority of us who probably don’t have a huge amount of time to spend tending to their garden.'

1. Silver birch

Multi-stem trees are becoming increasingly popular. A brilliant option for compact gardens or small patio ideas, the tree’s energy is divided across several smaller stems (rather than one large trunk), which naturally restricts the overall height and spread of the tree and keeps it more compact.

And by fanning out from the ground (rather than up high), multi-stem trees create interesting structural forms that give interest at eye-level without requiring a large footprint, which is why they work so well in smaller gardens.

‘When it comes to multi-stem trees, the striking white bark on silver birch trees helps to really set them apart compared to other tree types, adding year-round impact and a bit of variety in a smaller garden,’ says David.

‘Silver birches are also a great tree for creating shade in your garden, so try not to go for one that is too big and will block too much sun,’ adds David.

Where to buy silver birch trees:

• Gardening Express: Make a statement with this striking Betula utilis jacquemontii - West Himalayan Birch, from £29.97.
• Thompson & Morgan: Or go for this stunner - Silver Birch tree (Betula pendula) grown by Cotswold Trees, from £25.95.

2. Fuji cherry tree

‘The easy-to-grow Fuji cherry tree is a delicate plant with its long twigs coming to life in late winter and early spring with stunning flowers,’ says Chris Bonnet, founder of Gardening Express. ‘The leaves change shade each season for year-round interest, and it will thrive in full sun, requiring just a light prune in mid-summer, purely to remove dead, diseased or crossing branches.’

When choosing where to place a multi-stem tree, positioning them in a prominent spot, like the centre of a lawn or a courtyard garden, can work well, where their features can be enjoyed up close, such as a tree with fragrant blossoms or an attractive peeling bark. In larger spaces, consider positioning one where you can take advantage of the dappled shade, such as around a garden seating area.

Where to buy Fuji cherry trees:

• Gardening Express: Enjoy the pretty blossoms of this Prunus incisa Kojo-No-Mai - Standard Fuji Cherry Tree, £34.99.
• Roots Plants: Or try this stunning 5ft 'Mount Fuji' Cherry Blossom Tree | Prunus serrulata 'Shirotae', from £55.

Shop these tree-planting essentials

3. Amelanchier

Another major benefit of choosing a multi-stem tree for a small garden is that they create open, airy canopies that help to softly filter sunlight, rather than dense foliage that casts heavy shadows, which keeps smaller gardens feeling light and bright rather than dark and shady.

‘Amelanchiers are a great choice for a compact garden, because they are small and require minimal pruning,’ suggests David. ‘During spring you’ll be treated to delicate white springtime blossoms, then summer brings green foliage and autumn a vibrant orange and then red leaves throughout autumn.’

‘This makes amelanchier a great choice for anyone wanting to switch up the look of their garden throughout the year, and they won’t take up too much space either,’ adds David.

Where to buy amelanchier trees:

• Crocus: Perfect for a small garden, try this Amelanchier laevis 'Snowflakes', from £79.99.
• Sarah Raven: Or go for the compact Amelanchier lamarcki Snowy Mespilus, £17.47.

4. Himalayan birch

‘This versatile tree with its silvery white bark and architectural shape will create a fabulous focal point in the garden,’ says Chris. ‘It thrives in a sunny south-facing spot with well-drained soil, and it will need pruning between late summer and mid-winter.

‘When it comes to pruning a Himalayan birch tree, remove only dead, diseased or crossing branches,' adds Chris. 'And if there’s a build-up of green algae on the trunk, gently sponge this off with warm water.’

Where to buy Himalayan birch trees:

• Gardening Express: With a stunning white bark, try this Betula utilis 'Snow Queen' - Himalayan Birch - 250-300cm Tall, £69.99.
• Roots Plants: Or go for the striking Silver Birch Tree | Betula pendula, from £40.

5. Acer palmatum (Japanese Maple)

‘Acer palmatum (also known as Japanese maple) is a good, low-maintenance choice for any small garden or one of the best trees to grow in pots,’ suggests Chris. ‘This architectural plant looks beautiful all year round with colour-changing displays throughout the seasons.’

‘Acers require minimum care - some gentle pruning to keep the tree’s shape, with heavy pruning best done during January and February when the plant is dormant,’ adds Chris.

Where to buy Acer palmatum trees:

• Suttons: Enjoy a blaze of colour with this fiery red Acer palmatum 'Bloodgood', from £44.99.
• Amazon: Or try this stunning orange toned You Garden - Japanese Maple Acer palmatum 'Orange Dream', from £22.99.

6. Olive tree

‘Olive trees offer a contemporary and Mediterranean vibe to any sized garden or outdoor space,’ suggests David. ‘And they will thrive when added to any large container if planting space is limited.

‘Olive trees are also incredibly resilient in hot weather and extremely drought-tolerant, making them perfect for placing in any sunny or sheltered areas.’

Where to buy olive trees:

• B&Q: Add a Mediterranean vibe with this large standard olive tree, £52.99.
• Amazon: Or start small with this potted patio hardy olive tree, £45.90.

7. Californian lilac

‘With evergreen foliage and bright blue flowers from spring until early summer, Californian Lilac is a welcome addition to any garden, big or small,’ says Chris.

‘An easy-to-maintain plant, Californian lilac will only need trimming lightly once the blue flowers have faded, which will help maintain the bushy shape,’ adds Chris.

Where to buy Californian lilac trees:

• Gardening Express: Add stunning blue colour outdoors with this Large Ceanothus thyrsiflorus repens - Californian Lilac Tree - circa 140-160cm, £79.99.
• Thompson & Morgan: Or go for the smaller Ceanothus 'Italian Skies'Californian Lilac Hardy Shrub, from £12.99.

Want to create a focal point in your small garden? Have you considered adding a multi-stem tree? Let us know.

From roses and ornamental grasses to painted metal furniture, there are several garden trends making a comeback, proving that good design always comes full circle. What felt dated a few years ago is having a resurgence, as we fall back in love with nostalgic planting, heritage materials and gardens with a bit more personality.

Blame it on Rivals, blame it on the wider wave of nostalgia gripping everything from fashion to interiors, either way, we're dreaming of romantic country English gardens filled with colour, character and creative charm. Even outdoor furniture is having its own throwback moment.

From planting choices and landscaping ideas, we asked gardening and outdoor living experts which outdated garden trends are making a comeback, and exactly how to embrace them this time around.

1. Grandma gardens are reviving nostalgic planting

If there was any doubt that nostalgic gardens were making a comeback, the popularity of the 'Grandma Garden' trend firmly proves otherwise. As the name suggests, the aesthetic takes inspiration from the characterful gardens many of us remember from our childhood. Think colourful planting, vintage-inspired furniture, wildlife-friendly borders and gardens that feel collected over time, rather than curated.

Danielle Le Vaillant, head of photography & film at Cox & Cox believes the shift is being driven by our desire for comfort and familiarity. 'In a rapidly changing world, people crave security which makes us nostalgic for the places we felt secure and happy,' she says. 'For most that’s a childhood space, like granny’s garden where the summers were endless and there were adventures to be had around every corner, followed by snacks at the little wrought iron bistro set on the patio.'

It's also a sign we're becoming more confident showing character outdoors, says Danielle. 'For years, many gardens ended up looking remarkably similar – the same staple features, the same grey furniture. Our outdoor spaces are a being treated much more like interiors where the same appetite for antique or vintage style pieces exists, as well as the desire for layered textiles.'

It's this renewed appreciation for traditional gardens that's helping to bring everything from roses to metal furniture back in fashion.

2. Classic roses

Topping the list of nostalgic plants making a resurgence is the classic English rose. Once seen as too fussy or old-fashioned for modern gardens, these timeless blooms are enjoying a revival as gardeners rediscover their scent, charm and wildlife appeal.

As Dr Russell Sharp, founder of Eutrema, explains, roses fell out of favour as many gardens shifted towards cleaner, more minimalistic planting schemes. 'Roses were sometimes dismissed as being too much work because of pruning, but they're becoming popular again because gardeners are looking for plants that bring character, scent and a strong connection to traditional gardens.'

Thankfully, today's varieties are much easier to care for. Dr Sharp says many modern varieties are more disease-resistant and better suited to contemporary gardens, making them a much less demanding choice than their reputation suggests.

Rather than planting roses in formal beds, Dr Sharp recommends pairing them with ornamental grasses, salvias, lavender or other long-flowering perennials for a softer, more natural look. 'They work well in smaller gardens when trained against walls, fences or arches, where they add height without taking up much ground space,' he adds.

Softer shades such as blush pinks, apricots and whites help to keep the look fresh rather than dated.

Try a romantic variety, such as the Olivia Rose Austin (£35, David Austin), which lets one or two statement blooms stand out beautifully among simpler planting.

3. Ornamental grasses

Once a staple of noughties gardens, ornamental grasses lost their appeal for looking untidy, particularly during winter. Today, however, they're taking centre stage again thanks to the rise of naturalistic planting.

Michael Wheat, founder of Ponds by Michael Wheat says big drifts of grasses, like Miscanthus and Stipa are back in force now, inspired by prairie-style planting popularised by designers like Piet Oudolf.

'Ornamental grasses fell out of favour because gardeners were cutting them back too hard and too often, losing the winter structure that's actually the whole point,' he explains.

Michael says ornamental grasses work brilliantly around water, softening the edges of a pond or border, helping to soften hard landscaping, and create a relaxed, more natural feel. 'Used well, they give movement, texture and habitat for insects right through to spring,' he adds.

Recreate the look with an elegant variety, like this Miscanthus sinensis 'Kleine Silberspinne' (£10 from Crocus),, which reaches up to 1.2m, making it perfect for adding height to borders or as a standalone feature.

4. Gravel gardens

Gravel gardens were once dismissed as a low-effort option, and often associated with sparse new-build front gardens, rather than proper planting.

Now, they're one of the garden trends making a comeback, largely because of the drought summers we've had, says Michael. 'Now, paired with drought-tolerant perennials like sedum, achillea and lavender, they're valued for using far less water than a traditional lawn or border, while still looking deliberate rather than neglected.'

Rather than relying on gravel alone, he recommends combining it with structural planting and ornamental grasses. 'In a contemporary garden, both work best combined rather than as one big block: threading grasses through gravel with pockets of structural planting for year-round interest.'

The result? A garden that's not only low-maintenance but also packed with texture and seasonal interest.

5. Painted metal furniture is replacing rattan

For years, chunky rattan styles were at the forefront of garden furniture ideas, but traditional painted metal bistro and dining sets are making a stylish return as English country gardens grow in popularity.

'Metal sets which were seen as dated, impractical and uncomfortable and were replaced by larger boxy faux rattan styles which gave a more contemporary look, but now feel a bit hotel terrace,' says Danielle.

Today’s look is more romantic, pastel and heritage tones have replaced standard black and white metal furniture. 'We are also styling it much more casually – we can mix and match different chair types and colours around an outdoor dining table and dress with comfy cushions, tablecloths and vintage accessories for a much softer look,' adds Danielle.

To embrace the trend in 2026, Danielle recommends bringing in bold stripes, frilled seat pads and scalloped or fringed parasols that reference both English country gardens and Mediterranean holidays - added to a modern garden, the result feels less like a patio and more like decorating a room.

Shop the trend

Whether you're inspired by Grandma Gardens or painted metal furniture, these garden trends making a comeback prove that good design never really goes out of style.

Knowing how to water roses in hot weather can be the difference between them surviving the heatwave and not – so I spoke to the experts to find out exactly what I needed to do (and where I was going wrong) to ensure that my precious roses make it through.

Understanding how to water roses in hot weather is an essential part of growing roses, and thankfully, established roses are surprisingly drought-tolerant plants – it's one of the reasons I love them. However, heatwaves test even the hardiest roses, so getting your plan in place is vital to keeping your roses blooming all summer long.

1. Reduce frequency and increase quantity of watering

I always thought that the best way to water roses in hot weather was to water every day – even though I rarely managed it! So I was delighted to find out that I didn't need to feel guilty about not picking up the watering can every day – in fact, my lack of a daily watering schedule was actually better for my roses.

'Roses are relatively deep-rooting plants, so for well-established plants, roses should be okay on their own without needing lots of additional watering, as they will root down to the water table,' says Oliver Goold, sixth-generation rose grower at Henry Street Nursery.

'If you water roses in the ground with a little bit of water every day, you encourage the roots to rise to the surface to take in the little bit of water they are given on the surface and won’t send as many roots deep down into the ground, which is needed for long-term success of the plant.'

During prolonged periods of hot and dry weather, even drought-tolerant roses require a little extra help. Aim to drench your roses once or twice a week thoroughly.

2. Watering young roses correctly will set you up for success

Younger roses benefit from more regular watering throughout summer – even if there isn't a heatwave on the horizon, but again, the key is to use lots of water less frequently.

This advice was particularly important for the bare-root roses that I planted in my £20 rose garden at the start of the year.

'Water once or twice a week and aim to use between half to a full watering can of water per rose. This water will settle through the soil profile and encourage the roses to root deep down in the soil to reach the water table,' says Oliver Goold.

Make life easier by investing in a larger watering can – like this 13ltr plastic watering can from B&Q.

Training your young roses to rely on water from the water table rather than your watering will make them more self-sufficient, so they won't struggle if you go away for a fortnight in the summer.

3. Water the base of the rose in the morning to avoid disease

Time of day is also important when watering roses in hot weather.

'It is best to water roses in hot weather earlier in the day, so plants can take up moisture before the heat builds, and leaves have time to dry, further reducing disease risk,' says experts from Harkness Roses.

'Always water the soil at the base of the rose, not the leaves. Keeping foliage dry helps reduce the risk of fungal diseases in roses, especially when plants are stressed by heat.'

4. Employ the use of mulch

I can't sing the praises of mulch enough! It's been a game-changer – not only for my garden's soil health, but also because it meant that my garden hasn't really suffered in the most recent heatwave (even when it wasn't watered for over a week while I was on holiday!).

Roses particularly welcome a layer of mulch – like this Peat Free Manure from B&Q – as it keeps water in the soil.

'Apply a 2–3 inch layer of organic mulch (like compost or well-rotted manure) around the base, keeping it a few centimetres from the stem. Mulch helps retain moisture and regulates soil temperature, protecting roots and reducing how often you need to water,' says experts from Harkness Roses.

Our Senior Digital Editor, Jenny McFarlane swears by RocketGro's Magic Mulch 'I'm worrying less about watering my plants in hot weather because the compost and soil are staying moist for longer. RocketGro's Magic Mulch is available for just £14.84 on Amazon

5. Water potted roses daily

Potted roses require much more attention than those in the soil, as their water reserves are much more limited than those in the borders.

'Water potted roses daily and make sure the whole pot is saturated, as roses will flower most when given plenty of water,' says Oliver Goold. 'Fertilising roses is particularly important for those in pots. Use a liquid food like a rose tree & shrub or tomato feed, as when watering a lot, you wash a lot of the nutrients out of the soil, meaning the roses, while well watered, can start to become hungry.'

Amazon stocks a range of rose tree and shrub feeds – like this Miracle-Gro feed – and tomato feed – including the favourite Tomatorite. You could even make your own rose fertiliser.

'If growing in pots, use a soil-based compost such as John Innes No.3 as it's far more water absorbent than multi-purpose compost,' adds Stewart Pocock, owner at Pococks Roses. John Innes No.3 is available to buy on Amazon.

Here’s something I didn’t expect to see in a summer gardening advice video: frost fleece.

It probably isn't on your summer gardening bingo card, but if you’re looking to shade your plants without moving them, it’s worth watching Ish Kamran’s (@gardening.with.ish) recent Instagram reel. Horticultural fleece actually has a ton of benefits for your plants in hot weather – and it won’t smother them as you’d expect.

Here’s why Ish recommends frost fleece as a garden cooling technique (and two of the best ways to use it this summer!).

What you'll need

Whether you’re looking to protect your potted plants in hot weather or shield your border plants from the blazing sun, frost fleece has long been overlooked as a cooling solution. It wasn’t until I saw Ish’s video that I considered dragging mine out of the shed.

‘The most unlikely thing you could ever imagine is actually the most protective thing for your plants during a heatwave, and that is frost fleecing,’ Ish says in his recent video.

‘It’s nice and light, airy and translucent, so some light can still get through but, a bit like greenhouse shading, it reflects some of those UV rays and the heat, so it actually keeps the plant slightly cool underneath.’

Frost fleece, then, is the surprise way to heatproof your garden – especially if you have white fleece (like this GardenGloss Fleece from Amazon), which Ish says reflects the sun’s rays and therefore won’t absorb much heat in the sun.

You can use frost fleece to protect plants from the sun in two different ways, and one of them is basically a mulching technique.

‘You can get a good amount of it and pop it straight onto the top of the soil to create a bit of a reflective mulch,’ says Ish. ‘Water can get through when you’re watering it, but the sun’s light will reflect off, so it’s absolutely perfect.’

Or, for larger shrubs, you can use it in the same way you’d use an outdoor plant cover in winter.

‘If you’ve got a big plant like an acer, what you can also do is actually wrap it straight around, and because it’s going to reflect some of that sun’s heat, it’s going to stay nice and cool inside as well,’ says Ish.

‘So, it just goes to show that sometimes, when you’re trying to protect your plants, the most uncommon thing can be the best.’

Who'd have thought frost fleece is the dark horse of summer gardening?

If ants have been plaguing your garden this summer, diatomaceous earth (£14.45, Amazon) is the all-natural solution I’m recommending to gardeners, and it works just as well as white vinegar.

If you’ve been looking to make the most of your garden this summer, it can be a little disheartening to see trails of ants making themselves at home on your patio. While there are many ways to get rid of ants, this pest control-approved method is completely natural and organic.

Diatomaceous earth is an effective pest control measure, but it’s really important to buy the correct type. Here’s everything you need to know and how to use it.

What is diatomaceous earth?

It may have a fancy scientific name, but diatomaceous earth is simply the microscopic remains of ancient aquatic sea life.

‘Diatomaceous earth is a naturally occurring powder made from the fossilised remains of tiny aquatic organisms called diatoms. It looks and feels like a fine white dust, but under a microscope, it is razor-sharp. It is one of the few natural pest control products that pest professionals genuinely rate, though most consumers buy the wrong type and wonder why it does not work,’ says Mosh Latifi, Co-Owner, EcoCare Pest Management.

‘This is the detail most guides leave out. There are two main grades: food-grade and filter-grade. Food-grade diatomaceous earth is what you want for pest control. Filter-grade, often sold for pool filtration, has been chemically treated and is far less effective as a deterrent and potentially harmful to inhale. Always buy food-grade and check the label before purchasing.’

How does diatomaceous earth work?

It’s really easy to use diatomaceous earth to get rid of ants from a patio, and it won’t get in the way of your garden ideas.

To use diatomaceous earth, you need to apply a thin layer to entry points, windowsills, doorways and basically anywhere you’ve spotted ants congregating. You’ll want to apply a fine layer, as ants will simply avoid walking over too thick a layer. Remember, diatomaceous earth stops working when wet, so you’ll need to reapply when it rains.

‘The microscopic sharp edges of the particles pierce the waxy outer coating of an ant's exoskeleton as it walks through the powder, causing it to dehydrate and die. It is a purely physical process rather than a chemical one, which means ants cannot build resistance to it the way they eventually do to some chemical products,’ adds Mosh.

‘The main limitation is that it kills individual ants rather than addressing the colony, so it works best as part of a broader approach rather than a standalone solution. For outdoor use or as a preventative barrier inside, it is genuinely worth using.’

If you want to reclaim your garden from ants this summer, diatomaceous earth is the all-natural solution that’s safe to use around pets and kids. It’s cheap and will get the job done.

If you’re hoping to fill the shady gaps in your garden but still want the drought-tolerant benefits of sun-loving Mediterranean plants, you can have the best of both worlds. You’ll just need a list of the best plants for dry shade to hand.

It’s safe to say that drought-tolerant plants are becoming more popular by the year, but since most of them thrive in full sun, they generally aren't so compatible with shaded areas of the garden. That’s a problem for north-facing gardens, or those that sit in the shadow of taller trees and hedges – but thankfully, there’s a string of plants that are hardy enough to tolerate shade and dry soils.

Here’s a list of the best plants for dry shade, recommended by the experts, to give you some planting inspiration.

1. Lily turf

Lily turf (Liriope muscari) usually flowers from August all the way through to the autumn, so it’s worth planting ready-grown plants now, like these big blue lily turf plants from Gardening Express (or just after things cool down from the heatwave) for instant impact.

As luck would have it, it’s one of the best plants for dry shade – so it’s perfect for filling in those trickier gaps in the garden. It's also a brilliant drought-tolerant plant for pots if you're cultivating a container garden.

‘Liriope is great for a dry, shaded area as it has thick, tuberous roots that can draw up the minimal moisture available,’ explains Richard Barker, horticultural expert at LBS Horticulture. ‘Once established, it is very drought-resistant and can bounce back from dry spells that would kill other plants. However, if grown in shade, it may produce fewer flower spikes.’

Where to buy lily turf:

• Crocus: Buy big blue lily turf in 9cm or 2-litre pots.
• B&Q: Or, start growing white-flowered Liriope muscari 'Monroe White'.

2. Common polypody fern

There’s a long list of low-maintenance ferns that thrive in shade, and several of them can tolerate dry soils, too. The common polypody, an evergreen fern, is a plant I spotted in the pocket woodland garden at this year’s RHS Chelsea Flower Show, and it’s also a recommendation of RHS award-winning garden designer Zoe Claymore’s for dry shade.

‘Fern-wise, Polypodium vulgare and Drypoteris affinis are some of the best native ferns that cope with dry shade,’ she says. ‘I used them in my RHS Chelsea garden on the recommendation of the National Collection holder.’

Where to buy ferns:

• Crocus: Order pots of common polypody fern.
• Thompson & Morgan: Drypoteris affinis is another recommendation of Zoe's for dry shade.

3. Barrenwort

When you’re browsing for the best plants for dry shade, you’ll want to make sure the root system can handle both conditions. LBS Horticulture’s Richard tells me that barrenwort can do just that.

‘Barrenwort is considered to be one of the best plants to grow in dry shade and can even thrive directly underneath trees,’ he says. ‘This is because once the plant is established, its tough, fibrous roots are able to compete for moisture underneath large trees. It also has large, waxy leaves that naturally lose less water from evaporation.’

Barrenwort is a beautiful flowering groundcover plant (it’s affectionately known as fairy wings!), and it becomes really drought-tolerant once it’s established. I’ve got my eye on the butter-yellow blooms of Epimedium × versicolor 'Sulphureum', which you can order from Crocus (although it won’t flower until next spring now).

Where to buy barrenwort:

• Thompson & Morgan: Barrenwort 'Lilafee' produces striking purple flowers.
• Crocus: Barrenwort 'Amber Queen' is on my wishlist, too.

4. Japanese spurge

If you’re looking for an ultra-hardy evergreen shrub that thrives in dry shade, Japanese spurge (Pachysandra) is one of the best choices. Its low-growing, glossy green foliage makes it one of the best groundcover plants for preventing weeds, too.

‘Another dry shade plant that has been successful is Pachysandra,’ agrees Zoe.

Pachysandra terminalis, which you can order from Crocus, provides shaded garden borders with colour and texture all year round.

5. Bear's breech

I'd never heard of bear's breeches (Acanthus mollis) before Zoe recommended it to me for dry shade, but it's on my list now. The ornamental flower stalks are stunning, and they're at their peak now until the end of summer, so it's the perfect time to add the plants to your garden – especially if you're wondering what to plant in July (just wait until the heatwave is over!).

'Acanthus 'Rue Ledan' produces really beautiful white flowers,' says Zoe. I've put it in some free-draining gardens in dry shade with success, and the foliage is a good contrast.'

Where to buy bear's breeches:

• Gardening Express: I love the look of Acanthus mollis 'White Water'.
• Dobies: Another beautiful Acanthus mollis plant for architectural borders.

These plants give you the best of both worlds: drought-tolerance and the ability to cope with shade.

Our big paddling pool only comes out a handful of times each summer, but whenever it does, the ending is always the same. Once the girls have finished splashing around, we usually cover it for a while, but because we don't treat it with chemicals, we then need to empty it after a couple of days, which usually ends up as one giant puddle on our grass.

I'd never actually questioned it before, but after another spell of hot, dry weather and the constant threat of hosepipe bans, it made me think of how much perfectly usable water I was wasting, as well as the fact that I was wrecking my lawn in the process, which is why I was struggling to revive it all the time.

It turns out that as long as the water is clean and hasn't been treated with chlorine and other chemicals, gardening experts say there are plenty of ways to reuse paddling pool water around the garden instead of letting it drain away. So before I empty ours again, these are the tips I'll be stealing.

1. Give your borders a long drink

Instead of sending all that water across one patch of grass, the experts I spoke to say it's far better to spread it around the garden, particularly on established planting.

'People don't always realise how much water is sitting in a paddling pool, so it makes sense to use it elsewhere in the garden rather than just emptying it away,' says Jo McGarry, luxury garden design expert at Caragh Nurseries. 'If it's only been used for paddling and doesn't contain lots of chemicals, it's ideal for watering trees, shrubs and flower beds.'

Richard Barker, horticultural expert at LBS Horticulture, also recommends using it on ornamental plants and lawns, explaining that established plants have much stronger root systems than young plants.

Lucie Bradley, gardening expert at Easy Garden Irrigation, agrees that established plants are the safest bet. 'I wouldn't recommend it for watering fruits and vegetables as it is likely to contain traces of soaps, sunscreens, sweat and oil,' she explains. 'But I would highly recommend it for keeping established perennials, shrubs, trees and lawns hydrated.'

She also advises watering deeply at the base of plants rather than over the leaves to encourage healthier roots.

Padding pool watering essentials

2. Rescue your patio pots

Container plants are often the first to suffer during a hot spell because they dry out much faster than borders, making them an ideal place to use leftover pool water.

'Patio pots and hanging baskets are another great place to use it because they dry out much more quickly than plants growing in the ground,' says Jo. 'A really good soak with leftover pool water can help keep them looking their best during a hot spell.'

Jo also recommends pouring any remaining water onto your compost heap if it's becoming dry. 'Compost needs moisture to break down properly, so it's an easy way to put every last drop to good use.'

If you regularly fill a large paddling pool over summer like us, Jo suggests investing in a small submersible pump like Gardena's submersible pump, £59.99 at Amazon. 'It makes moving the water around the garden much easier than carrying watering cans back and forth, especially if you've got a larger garden.'

3. Store it in a water butt

If you've still got water left after watering the garden, why not save it for another day?

'The water from a paddling pool can be siphoned into existing water butts to ensure you have a good reserve during dry weather or for use during a hosepipe ban,' says Richard.

He advises only storing clean water that's free from chlorine, soaps and dirt, adding that it's worth filtering it through a sieve first to catch grass and other debris before pouring it into the butt. If you're using a submersible water pump, like this Amazon pick, to drain your pool, you could add this pump filter, £7.99 at Amazon, to strain it all out.

Lucie adds that this is especially worthwhile considering many family paddling pools hold several hundred litres of water, meaning there's often far more than you can immediately use around the garden.

Shop water butts

4. Help wildlife through hot weather

Clean paddling pool water can also be put to good use, helping wildlife stay hydrated. Richard says it's suitable for topping up bird baths, provided it's free from dirt, sunscreen, soap and chemicals. 'If the water appears dirty or has an oily film, this should not be used as it can ruin birds' feathers and make them more vulnerable to predators.'

Lucie also recommends using it to create shallow drinking stations for bees, butterflies and other beneficial insects, adding that involving children in transferring the water is a brilliant way to teach them about both wildlife and saving water.

Shop wildlife hydration essentials

5. Use it for cleaning jobs around the garden

Your plants aren't the only things that can benefit. Instead of reaching for the hose, Richards suggests using leftover paddling pool water to clean garden furniture, decking, wheelie bins and even wash the car using a bucket.

Lucie points out that hosepipes and pressure washers can use around 1000 litres of water an hour when cleaning patios or cars, so reusing water you've already paid for is a much more efficient option.

Where not to reuse paddling pool water

All three of the experts agree that you should avoid paddling pool water on fruit, vegetables or young plants if there's any chance it contains sunscreen, soaps or other contaminants.

If the pool has been treated with chlorine, Richard recommends leaving the water uncovered in the sun for around 24 hours before using it so the chlorine has time to dissipate.

So the next time I drag the paddling pool out (i.e. this weekend), I'll probably still end up with a soggy lawn where the kids are splashing around, but after speaking to the experts, I certainly won't be pulling the plug quite so quickly.

With hosepipe bans becoming an increasingly familiar part of summer, it feels like an easy way to water your garden during one!

If flies and mosquitoes have been plaguing your patio this summer, pest experts have revealed how a mix of coffee grounds and bicarbonate of soda can deter them from your garden, leaving you free to host, relax and enjoy.

It’s always helpful to know how to get rid of flies and mosquitoes. These buzzing pests can be a real nuisance when trying to enjoy your garden, and in the case of mosquitoes, carry a nasty bite, too.

Recently, Ideal Home’s Cleaning Editor Lauren Bradbury used coffee grounds to deter flies from her home, and now pest experts have revealed you can apply a similar principle to your patio. Here’s how.

What's the hack?

Coffee has a strong fragrance that flies and mosquitoes can’t stand, and once lit and smouldering, they won’t go anywhere near it.

‘Flies and mosquitoes locate food and hosts primarily by smell, and strong, unfamiliar odours confuse and deter them. Coffee grounds produce a powerful, bitter aroma that insects find deeply unpleasant and that masks the smells that attract them in the first place, such as food, sweet drinks and carbon dioxide from humans,’ explains Mosh Latifi, Co-Owner, EcoCare Pest Management.

‘Bicarbonate of soda used as part of a mixture can produce carbon dioxide when combined with an acid, which confuses mosquitoes whose tracking systems are tuned to follow CO2 towards a host. Used together, they create a reasonably effective scent barrier around a patio.’

Many pests, including flies and mosquitoes, rely on scent to navigate and communicate, and so scent deterrents are an effective way to keep them at bay. This scent deterrent method is easy to follow, too. Burn dry coffee grounds in a heatproof dish on your patio, and pests will stay away.

‘Sprinkle bicarbonate of soda in and around rubbish bins or in areas where food odours tend to linger,’ suggests Daniel Steward, Managing Director at Shield Pest Control.

‘Before using coffee grounds, ensure they are completely dry. Place them in a heatproof container outdoors and light them so they smoulder rather than burn with a flame. Position the container near seating areas, while keeping it well away from flammable materials.

‘These natural methods work best alongside good patio hygiene. Regularly empty rubbish bins, wipe away food and drink spills promptly, remove fallen fruit, and eliminate standing water from pots, buckets, and other containers to prevent attractive odours and mosquito breeding sites from developing.’

Is this a good hack to use?

While it definitely works, this method is most effective when the coffee is burning. So, unless you’re a full-blown coffee addict and have a steady supply, or have one of the best coffee machines at your fingertips, you might need a more permanent solution.

‘The benefits last only while the bicarbonate of soda continues to absorb odours and the coffee grounds are still smouldering. Once the smoke dissipates or new odours develop, flies and mosquitoes are likely to return,’ confirms Daniel.

However, this doesn’t mean the method is without benefit; it should be used alongside other deterrents.

‘It is a reasonable first line of defence for casual outdoor use and has the advantage of being cheap, natural and widely available. It will not replace a citronella candle or a pheromone trap for serious mosquito pressure, but as a supplementary measure around a patio table, it is worth doing. The burning coffee grounds method in particular is something I genuinely recommend for evening use outdoors when mosquito activity peaks,’ says Mosh.

Don't let pests put you off enjoying your patio this summer. Employing the right deterrents means you can have a practically pest-free summer.

It may not feel like it, especially considering the temperatures, but July is one of the most productive months in the gardening calendar – especially if you’re keen to expand your planting without spending a fortune. Because, yes, there are no less than five perennials to propagate in July if you want free plants aplenty!

Yes, we all know that propagation is the MVP in our gardening arsenals. It basically means that, rather than buying new plants every time you want to fill a gap in a border or refresh a tired-looking patch, you can just... well, just multiply the favourites you already have growing.

A single healthy plant can provide the starting point for several new additions, helping you create a fuller garden while saving money and reducing waste. And high summer? Why, it just so happens to be one of the easiest times to try your hand at taking cuttings.

Five perennials to propagate in July

So many perennials are putting on strong growth at this point in the year, which means that those stems are at the perfect stage to develop roots before the colder months arrive. With a few basic supplies and the right aftercare, even beginner gardeners can successfully grow their own plants for next year.

‘Summer cuttings will root quickly and grow into beautiful plants for next year,’ says Morris Hankinson, director of Hopes Grove Nurseries.

‘It’s a great way to ensure you can replace any plants that suffer in winter, while also filling gaps in your borders with strong, home-grown stock.’

With that in mind, then, here are five reliable perennials to propagate in July, along with Morris’s expert advice on how to get them started. (Just take care to avoid any obvious propagation mistakes when you get to work).

1. Clematis

Clematis is one of the most rewarding climbers to propagate in summer, especially if you already have a healthy, established plant in your garden. If you fancy it, Morris recommends selecting a strong, non-flowering stem and taking a cutting carefully.

‘Choose a healthy stem and, with sharp secateurs (these Kimura bypass secateurs, £24.99 at Amazon, are our top buy), cut between leaf joints. Remove lower leaves and dip the cut end of the stem in rooting powder. It’s very easy to root,’ he says.

Shop propagation essentials

Once prepared, the cutting should be planted into a pot of moist compost (like Westland Gro-Sure cutting compost, £8.85 at Amazon). To maintain humidity, cover it with a transparent plastic bag and place it somewhere warm and bright, but out of direct sunlight. ‘The plastic cover helps keep moisture in until the cutting has rooted well,’ adds Morris.

Be patient here, as clematis can take a little time. Once established, though, the reward is a vigorous climber that can transform fences, arches and pergolas. Win!

2. Salvia

Salvia is a cottage garden staple, loved for its spires of purple, blue or pink flowers that attract bees and butterflies. And it is one of the best plants to grow from cuttings, so long as you target non-flowering shoots.

Morris explains: ‘Softwood cuttings can be taken from non-flowering shoots. Remove the lower leaves and place them into a gritty, moist compost. Keep these shaded and moist until rooted.’

The key here is balance, as too much sun can scorch delicate cuttings, while too little moisture will slow root development. A light, airy compost mix like Gro-Sure Westland Seed & Cutting Compost Bale helps prevent rot and encourages healthy root formation.

‘Summer cuttings will root quickly and grow into beautiful plants for next year,’ he adds, making salvia one of the most satisfying perennials to propagate at this time of year.

3. Lavender

Lavender is one of the easiest and most reliable plants to propagate in July, especially if you already have a bushy plant.

Morris suggests selecting side shoots that aren’t flowering. ‘Choose non-flowering side shoots and pull away from the plant with a small piece of older wood attached. Plant into a gritty mix of moist compost,’ he says.

Unlike some other perennials, lavender rarely needs rooting hormone and thrives in a warm position with excellent drainage. ‘Lavender roots easily in a warm position and usually doesn’t need rooting powder,’ adds Morris.

This is a particularly useful method if your lavender plants are getting woody or sparse, as propagation allows you to refresh your planting stock every few years.

4. Penstemon

Penstemons are brilliant long-flowering perennials, but the frost can and will make short work of them. ‘Sometimes they can suffer in long, cold winters, so propagating is a good way to ensure you can replace any damaged plants the following year,’ Morris explains.

Semi-ripe cuttings, Morris says, are the key to success here. ‘Take 5–10cm semi-ripe cuttings from healthy stems on the plant. Remove the lower leaves and place around the edge of a pot filled with a moist, gritty mix of compost,’ he says.

Positioning the cuttings around the edge of the pot helps improve airflow and rooting success. Keep them sheltered but not overly warm, and ensure compost stays lightly moist.

5. Hardy geranium

Fun fact: hardy geraniums are one of the most forgiving and productive perennials you can grow, and they multiply easily through division or cuttings. Or, as Morris puts it, they can ‘easily be propagated by dividing larger clumps after flowering, or by taking young shoots as cuttings. Hardy geraniums grow well and soon flourish again.'

Basically, a little propagation now and you will have the ideal filler plant for stuffing awkward gaps in borders or expanding existing drifts of colour. Plus, once established, geraniums quickly settle back into growth, rewarding even beginner gardeners with reliable, long-lasting colour.

FAQs

Whichever way you look at it, propagating perennials in July is one of the most cost-effective and satisfying gardening tasks of the summer. All it takes is a little patience, a clean pair of secateurs, the correct conditions, and a handful of cuttings to turn into a flourishing border by next year.

And when all of that is promised for free? Well, then the little effort it takes is more than worth it. Good luck!

If there’s one potting ingredient I swear by, it’s an unlikely one: sheep’s wool.

My potted plants have thrived every year since I discovered it for gardening, and it’s all thanks to its water-retaining benefits. Even in peat-free composts, which tend to dry out quicker, I’ve found I can water my plants less than I usually would – and that’s especially handy in hot summers like this one.

There are several ways you can use wool in potted plants, so I’m about to break down the ready-made composts I use and the pellet method I just discovered on Ish Kamran's (@gardening.with.ish) Instagram reel.

What you'll need

When I first stumbled upon Dalefoot Wool Compost for Potting (which you can order from Crocus) back in 2021, it completely changed the way I garden. Initially, I chose the brand because it specialises in peat-free composts (I’m a huge advocate for their environmental benefits), but I was pleasantly surprised by the ingredients: nutrient-rich bracken and comfrey, which feed the plant for up to 12 months and, of course, sheep's wool.

Dalefoot Composts claims that plants require 50% less watering in this compost, and I found that to be pretty true. I’ve actually planted all of my tomatoes in Dalefoot Wool Compost for Tomatoes (also available at Crocus) this year, and they managed to survive the few days I was away while there was a heatwave here in the UK (even if the tomato leaves looked a little yellow and droopy when I first came home!). The plants are still pumping out tomatoes, which is so impressive considering the fact that A) it’s been sweltering, and B) they’re in relatively tiny pots.

You don’t have to buy pre-mixed wool compost, though, thanks to the existence of wool pellets.

It’s common knowledge that wool can deter slugs, since the critters hate anything that wicks water out of them, but I’d never really considered adding it to my potting mixes. Until I saw Ish’s Instagram reel, that is.

‘Add them to a tub of water or some really wet compost, and all of a sudden it makes this fantastic little slurry which is soaking in the moisture really, really well,’ says Ish.

‘I’ve been mixing this in with my multi-purpose compost or peat-free compost, which is not very good at retaining moisture anyway, and as a result, it’s been holding onto that moisture just a little bit longer, meaning that I don’t have to worry about my plants drying out so quickly.’

Besides their moisture-retentive and slug-deterrent properties, wool pellets have a few more benefits – and mulching is one of them.

‘If you place them on top, it actually works as a really good mulch layer, too,' Ish says. 'Any sun rays during a heatwave are reflected off of the soil, meaning the soil dries out slower.'

You can buy a top-rated pack of wool pellets from Amazon for £13.99.

‘A double bonus is sheep’s wool is naturally full of nitrogen, meaning when this breaks down, it’s also a slow-release food,’ he adds.

I'm sticking with my sheep's wool compost for the foreseeable – but wool pellets are something I want to try as a layer of mulch, or mixed into other wool-free composts I have lying around.

If this summer has taught me anything, it’s to never take shade for granted. And with hotter summers expected to become the new normal, it’s a good idea to create areas of shade in your outdoor space to help it stay cooler. So I spoke with garden experts who revealed three fast-growing trees and shrubs that are great for providing shade in a garden.

Where before, gardeners coveted a ‘sun trap’ garden, 2026 has proved there is such a thing as too much sun, with garden shade ideas becoming more popular. One of the best ways to shade a garden is with clever planting.

If you want to heatproof your garden and keep it cool for heatwaves to come, here are some fast-growing trees and shrubs that are great for providing shade.

1. Viburnum tinus

Not only is Viburnum tinus great for providing shade, but it’s also one of the best low-maintenance privacy shrubs. It’s evergreen, providing colour to your garden in the depths of winter, too.

‘A popular, hardy evergreen shrub, Viburnum tinus is low maintenance as well as fast growing, adding approx. 50cm each year to its height until it reaches maturity at between 2.5 and 4 metres in height,’ says Lucie Bradley, gardens and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation.

‘In the summer, its solid foliage creates effective shade, blocking the strong rays of the sun and providing great privacy. With pruning, you can shape this shrub into an informal hedge, standard tree, or simply leave it untrimmed to form a free-standing, multi-stemmed shrub.’

Where to buy Viburnum tinus:

• Viburnum tinus, £35.99, Crocus
• Viburnum tinus - Laurustinus, £14.97, Gardening Express
• Viburnum tinus 'Eve Price', £24.99, Crocus

2. Silver birch

Silver birch is one of the most recognisable trees in the UK, famed for its gorgeous silvery bark. Silver birch trees grow relatively fast and establish quickly, too. Plus, its spring catkins make the perfect treat for wildlife.

‘Silver birch trees are another great option for sunny gardens. Their light canopy helps cool the area beneath while still allowing airflow through the garden. They thrive in full sun and prefer consistently moist soil,’ says Darren Beard, Senior Gardening Buyer at Cherry Lane Garden Centres

Where to buy silver birch:

• Silver Birch (Hedging), £12.99, Thompson & Morgan
• Betula alba Pendula - Silver Birch - Circa 220-250cm Tall, was £89.99, now £59.99, Gard
• Betula pendula subsp. pendula 'Youngii' - Silver Birch - Circa 250-300m Tall, was £129.99, now £69.99, Gardening Express

3. Photinia ‘Red Robin’

Another great shrub for privacy, Photinia ‘Red Robin’ is known for its fast-growing nature and stunning, glossy red leaves.

‘I not only love the look of vibrant, fiery-red new foliage which Photinia ‘Red Robin’ produces in the spring, I also adore the fact that it’s year round, glossy, oval leaves create a dense cover to this fast-growing shrub, providing me with both privacy and shade during the summer months when I’m sat out in my garden,’ says Lucie.

‘Thriving in plenty of natural light, ‘Red Robin’ can produce 50 to 100cm of new growth in a year when in good, well-drained soil and with plenty of full sun. Once mature, your shrub should reach between 2.5 and 4 metres in height and spread, easy to manage by trimming twice a year, once in spring and again in late summer, so you can manage the shape and size of this shrub as well as encourage its foliage to remain full.’

Where to buy Photinia ‘Red Robin’:

• Photinia × fraseri 'Red Robin', £19.99, Crocus
• Photinia Red Robin Bushy Evergreen Hardy Shrub Garden Hedging Plant in Pot - 9cm pot, £8.97, B&Q
• Photinia x fraseri 'Red Robin', £8.99, Thompson & Morgan

On a hot day, you can't beat a shady spot to cool down. Which tree is your favourite?

While the warmer weather has been lovely (most of the time), my garden has seen a few casualties from the heat this summer. Tender bedding plants and my hydrangeas have really suffered when it’s been hot and sunny, and it has been a struggle keeping up with watering and looking after them.

But when it comes to varieties like lavender and rosemary dotted throughout my garden, these plants are thriving in the hot weather, which has got me thinking about adding a few more Mediterranean plants that can cope better with the heat and will thrive even during a heatwave.

‘With the UK experiencing record-breaking temperatures throughout June and July, many gardeners are now on the lookout for drought-tolerant plants that can handle the hot and dry weather that could continue well into August and September,’ says David Denyer, flower and garden expert at Eflorist.

‘While many traditional bedding plants struggle to cope in periods of prolonged heat, Mediterranean plants have naturally adapted to large amounts of sunshine, dry soil and high temperatures, so now is the perfect time to consider them in your own outdoor spaces.’

1. Lamb's ears

‘Mediterranean plants are excellent choices for coping with the UK's increasingly frequent heatwaves,’ says Chris Bonnett, founder of Gardening Express.

‘Opting for varieties that can retain water is a must, and these will often have fleshy leaves that store excess moisture. Plants with silvery or hairy foliage, such as lamb’s ears or lavender, will reflect sunlight and reduce water loss, and those with deep root systems that can access moisture below the soil surface are also great options.’

Lamb's ears (Stachys byzantina) is a silver, velvety ground cover plant that produces pretty pinky-purple flowers. It thrives in full sun and dry conditions, making it a great low-maintenance choice for hot and sunny conditions.

Great for garden borders, edging and rock gardens, bees and pollinators love lamb's ears for its fuzzy foliage and the furry hairs on the leaves, which they use to line their nests.

Where to buy lamb's ears plants:

• Gardeners Dream: Enjoy the silver tones and velvety texture of this Lamb's Ears Stachys byzantina 'Pure Cotton', £14.99.
• Crocus: Or go for this variety with silver, white leaves - Stachys byzantina 'Silver Carpet', from £8.99.

2. Olive trees

'While our shifting summer weather certainly puts our gardens to the test, a little research and careful planning can go a long way,' says Shelley Davis, flower expert at Flying Flowers. 'By choosing the right varieties and adjusting our care routines, we can help these sun-loving Mediterranean plants establish themselves and bring a vibrant touch of the continent right into our gardens.'

'Nothing brings that Mediterranean holiday atmosphere home quite like an olive tree, and with UK summers getting hotter, we might actually start seeing them bear fruit,' adds Shelley. 'When temperatures settle into the late 20s and early 30s, olive trees will open up their tiny blossoms, which local pollinators can help develop into small, homegrown olives.'

'Just remember that while they love the heat, they aren’t completely self-sufficient. Young or potted olive trees need a steady supply of moisture, so keep the soil damp but never soggy to protect their roots from rot.'

'It’s hard to beat the addition of one or two olive trees to add a touch of ‘Greek summer holiday’ aesthetic to your outdoor space,’ agrees David.

‘Olive trees are incredibly resilient in hot weather and become more drought-tolerant as they mature. Place them in large containers with good drainage to keep them thriving during the heat.’

Where to buy potted olive trees:

• Beards & Daisies: Go for this easy-to-care-for small-sized Olive Tree Olea europaea, £24.
• Gardening Express: Or go for an established tree with this Giant Tuscan Olive Tree XXXL, £199.99.

Shop these extra-large patio planters

3. Geraniums

‘Geraniums are a summer staple,’ says David. ‘They love a sunny spot, and geraniums actually perform better when allowed to dry slightly between waterings, making them a great option for summer containers.’

‘For those looking to squeeze every last bit of the summer sunshine out of their garden, it’s also handy to know that geraniums continue to produce colourful blooms for months, regardless of how high the mercury rises,’ adds David.

Thanks to their thick, fleshy foliage that acts as a natural reservoir, geraniums don’t struggle in the heat. To keep them thriving and flowering when it's warm, water them at the base of the plants early in the morning or late evening, ensuring that any excess water drains away. And make sure to deadhead geraniums, pinching off dead flowers and any yellowing leaves regularly to ensure they’ll continue to flower throughout summer.

Where to buy geraniums:

• Crocus: Add vibrant colour with these Geranium 'Red Shades', from £4.
• Gardening Direct: Or go for a mix of sunny shades with this Geranium 'Reach-Out' mix, from £8.99.

4. Salvias

'Hailing from hot, dry climates, salvias are exceptionally drought-tolerant once established,' says Shelley. 'While other flowers might scorch under the intense summer sun, salvias keep their vibrant colour. And thanks to their deep root systems, they can tap into moisture deep underground, meaning they only require a thorough soaking once or twice a week even during a severe heatwave.'

'For ultimate summer resilience, look for the ‘Heatwave’ series–a hardy hybrid of Salvia microphylla (Mountain Sage) and Salvia greggii (Autumn Sage), known scientifically as Salvia x jamensis, which has been specifically bred to thrive in baking heat,' adds Shelley.

‘Salvia’s vibrant foliage is perfect for adding long-lasting bursts of summer colour to your garden,’ agrees David. ‘And with regular deadheading, salvias should continue to flower long after many other plants have started to fade.’

Salvias thrive in sunny, sheltered positions and look great in the middle or front of garden borders, and in gravel and Mediterranean-style gardens. Salvia in pots is more susceptible to drying out, though, so these will need more regular watering than plants in the ground.

Where to buy salvia plants:

• Gardeners Dream: Enjoy the purple colour and spiky shape of this Salvia 'Amistad', £15.73.
• Crocus: Or go for a hot pink variety with this Salvia gregii 'Lipstick', from £5.99.

5. Callistemon

‘When it comes to flowering shrubs that do well in hot, dry weather, varieties like callistemon, cistus and nerium oleander are all top picks,’ says Chris.

‘These plants are all able to retain water for heat spikes and do well in a hot climate. Their features include deep roots and leathery leaves, which retain moisture. Just make sure to protect them from the UK’s colder climates.’

Callistemon (also known as the bottlebrush plant) has dense cylindrical spikes of crimson flowers on the ends of aromatic green foliage. It flowers best when grown in full sun, and in moist but well-drained soil, sheltered from cold winds. Ideal for flower beds and borders, position callistemon against walls and fences where its bright flowers will pop more brightly.

Where to buy callistemon plants:

• Thompson & Morgan: For striking borders, try this Callistemon viminalis 'Hot Pink', £44.99.
• Gardening Express: Or go for a hot red variety with this Callistemon rigidus - Bottlebrush, £17.99.

6. Sea holly

‘Sea holly (Eryngium) is another plant that loves dry weather and is a bit more unusual looking, with its spiky, silvery-blue flowerheads that wouldn't look out of place in a coastal garden,’ suggests Julian Palphramand, Head of Plants at British Garden Centres.

‘Sea holly is tougher than it looks and actually does better when you leave it to fend for itself, so it is perfect for planting when conditions are dry and will cope in a heatwave.’

With purple, thistle-shaped flowers and spiky, architectural foliage, sea holly looks striking planted in garden borders, rising in drifts above low-growing plants or paired with billowy ornamental grasses or cottage-style flowers like salvias and alliums.

Where to buy sea holly plants:

• J. Parker's: Add structure and colour to borders with these Eryngium planum 'Blaukappe', from £4.99.
• Crocus: Or go for the striking Eryngium bourgatii 'Picos Blue', from £14.99.

7. Silverbush

'Originating from the coastal areas and limestone hills of Spain, Italy, and Croatia, the silverbush is highly prized for its exceptional drought tolerance and ability to thrive in the baking sun,' says Shelley. 'Much like salvia, this hardy plant only needs a deep watering during heatwaves when the soil has dried out completely.'

'While its delicate, white trumpet flowers can handle the heat, they may fade a bit faster in hot weather. Regularly deadheading these blooms will encourage a bushier shrub and stimulate a fresh flush of new flowers.'

Where to buy silverbush plants:

• Gardeners Dream: For a pretty swathe of white blooms, try this Silverbush Convolvulus cneorum, £10.49.
• Amazon: Or go for the fast-spreading Convolvulus Cneorum White Evergreen, £10.49.

8. Achillea

‘Achillea is another star pick for a potentially warmer climate,’ suggests Julian. ‘Achillea boasts flat-topped flowers in yellow, pink or red, sitting on feathery foliage that copes well in poor soil.’

‘Achillea is one of those low-maintenance plants that genuinely seems to prefer being left to its own devices, so it can thrive with little water,’ adds Julian.

Plant achillea in sunny borders with well-drained soil. Achillea’s flat-headed blooms look good when paired with plants that provide a contrasting shape, such as spiky salvias or feathery grasses. Deadhead flowers through the summer to encourage more blooms, leaving a few flower heads if you want to collect seed.

Where to buy achillea plants:

• Crocus: Go for these sunny yellow blooms of Achillea filipendulina 'Cloth of Gold', from £8.99.
• Gardeners Dream: Or try a mix of pretty pastel shades with this Achillea 'Summer Pastels', from £7.86.

Has your garden been suffering in the heat? Are there any plants that are thriving in your garden in the heat? Let us know.

Mulching is a crucial garden task all year round, especially during a heatwave – but there’s an underrated way to mulch that we don’t talk about enough.

Enter living mulch plants. Generally, they’re flowering groundcover plants or nitrogen-fixing annuals that provide cover around the base of other plants, protecting the soil and suppressing weeds in the process. Plus, several mulch plants are terrific at enriching the soil with nutrients.

‘The most practical options are the low, spreading ground cover plants that are already well stocked in garden centres over summer,’ says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. ‘These plants do the work of a traditional mulch, as they reduce weeds, lock in moisture and help keep roots cooler in summer, without the need for bags of bark or compost.’

These are the best living mulch plants that experts recommend for a healthier, drought-protected garden.

1. Aubrieta

Aubrieta is one of the first living mulch plants that Julian recommended to me, and it’s certainly among the prettiest.

This popular perennial flowers in spring, and its dense foliage throughout the rest of the year makes it the perfect groundcover plant for suppressing weeds and conserving soil moisture. Personally, I’ve got my eye on Aubrieta ‘Purple Cascade’ F1, which you can buy from Thompson & Morgan, because the blooms are so vividly purple.

‘For sunny borders, aubrieta is widely available and spreads quickly to form a dense, weed-suppressing mat,’ says Julian. ‘It’s low-maintenance, usually evergreen or semi-evergreen, and many will flower heavily, so they add colour while protecting the soil.’

Where to buy aubrieta:

• Crocus: Aubrieta F1 ‘Purple Cascade’ produces masses of pretty purple flowers for dense ground cover.
• YouGarden: Grow Aubrieta ‘Kate’ Mix for larger flowers that grow in mound shapes.

2. Clover

There are so many benefits to leaving clover in your lawn, but according to garden designer Zoe Claymore, it works wonders as a living mulch plant, too.

‘Clover is good for nitrogen fixing,’ says Zoe. ‘Wait until after the heatwave, and we’ve had some rain before sowing anything.’

It’s actually a popular green manure plant, which is why many gardeners sow it in spring or autumn before digging in the mature plants to give the soil a nutrient boost. In fact, many gardeners choose green manures over bags of mulch if they’re looking to prepare it for the next growing season.

Where to buy clover seeds:

• Amazon: Order a pack of white clover seeds.
• Thompson & Morgan: More green manure seeds to give your soil a nutrient boost.

3. Creeping thyme

Creeping thyme is by far one of the best groundcover plants for a sea of pretty blooms, and it’s a fantastic living mulch plant in other ways, too.

‘For a more natural look in sunny, dry spots, creeping thyme is easy to source and creates a low, walk-on carpet that holds moisture and keeps the soil cool,’ says Julian.

You could even take that walk-on carpet idea to the next level and grow a creeping thyme lawn, which requires a lot less watering than traditional grass.

Where to buy creeping thyme:

• Crocus: Creeping thyme 'Pink Chintz' produces flowers that release a light fragrance when brushed.
• B&Q: Grow Thyme pulegioides 'Archers Gold' for golden foliage.

4. Nasturtiums

When I first grew my own nasturtiums from seed, I quickly learned that the popular flowering annuals grow really fast. They gain height and spread at speed – but they also have a huge selection of benefits as living mulch plants.

'Nasturtiums make great living mulch plants as they have trailing stems and large leaves that can function as a weed-suppressing canopy,' explains Richard Barker, horticultural expert at LBS Horticulture. 'The leaves will also shade the soil to help it retain moisture, and keep roots cool in hot weather.'

Richard recommends planting nasturtiums around plants with deep root systems, so that their shallow roots won't compete with them for nutrients.

Where to buy nasturtiums:

• Amazon: Order a pack of Fothergill's Oh Sow Simple 'Nasturtium Mix' seeds.
• Thompson & Morgan: Grow Nasturtium 'Purple Emperor' for pink flowers.

5. Periwinkle

Periwinkle is one of those fast-growing groundcover plants that can blanket an area with dense foliage in no time at all, so it’s among the best living mulch plants out there. Lesser periwinkle (Vinca minor, which you can buy from Crocus) is generally the best choice for gardens, since it’s easier to manage than its greater periwinkle counterpart.

‘In shade or under trees, periwinkle is an excellent choice,’ says Julian. ‘These are common in garden centre shade‑plant sections, establish quickly, and are great at filling gaps and keeping bare soil covered through the year.’

Where to buy periwinkle:

• Crocus: Order 9cm or 2-litre pots of Vinca minor 'Bowles's Variety'.
• Gardening Express: Vinca minor 'Illumination' produces striking golden foliage.

Who knew living mulch plants could be so good at nurturing and protecting our plants?

The holiday is booked, the weather looks great, but oh – what about the plants in the garden – especially if we have a heatwave while I'm away!

This is definitely a problem to solve this summer with unknown temperatures heading our way. I can deep water before I go, but that won't last long and my neighbours are elderly, so they can't help me.

I have turned to our garden experts for advice on how they look after their plants when they're on holiday, so I don't come home to very sad-looking plants that I've been keeping alive for the last few months.

1. Pre-care before you leave

The best place to start is by giving your garden some pre-prep before you leave.

Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres, agrees, 'If you’re heading off for two weeks, the main thing is to give your plants a really good soak before you leave. Don’t just sprinkle the surface; make sure you water deeply so the moisture reaches the roots.'

It is possible to make watering mistakes, though – Julian does say don't overwater; things should be on the slightly dry side rather than overwatered and soggy. Another great tip from him is regarding pots and hanging baskets: 'These are usually the first to dry out, so it helps to move them out of full sun if you can, and group containers together to create a more sheltered spot.'

'Before you leave,' says Liam Cleary, gardening expert at the Old Railway Line Garden Centre. 'It's also worth removing any faded flowers or fruit that's ready to pick. Plants put a surprising amount of energy into producing flowers and seeds, so taking those off helps them focus on staying healthy while you're away.'

Mulching is very beneficial as it keeps the moisture in the soil. We like B&Q's Fargro Strulch organic garden mulch; it's £21.99 for a 9kg bag. Or if you like a decorative finish that's practical too, have a look at Amazon's Spruce ornamental bark mulch, it's known for helping with summer heat, £20.99 for 60 litres.

2. Watering spikes

'Watering spikes made from terracotta are extremely popular and easy to set up,' advises Lucie Bradley, gardening expert and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation.

Based on ancient 'olla' irrigation, the porous clay allows water to seep into the soil when it dries out. Soak the spike in water for a couple of hours, then push it into the soil near the roots. Then you get an empty bottle, fill it with water and insert it into the spike that acts as a reservoir.

Crocus sell a pair for £7.99 that will fit a wine bottle, they are made from natural clay. If you prefer to use a plastic version, then check out Amazon's six-pack for £7.95; they come with an adapter for different-sized bottles.

3. Capillary matting

Capillary matting is a great option, and it can be used in greenhouses or outside.

'Before going away, line plant saucers or trays with a layer of an absorbent material, such as capillary matting,' suggests Richard Barker, horticultural expert at LBS Horticulture. 'Add water to the material, and then place potted plants back on top of their saucer or tray. The plant will be able to draw water from the material when it needs it.'

You will need a flat tray – we like Amazon's EarlyGrow three-pack of trays, £23.95. For capillary matting, try B&Q's Verve capillary matting sheets, pack of five for £3, or you can buy in rolls if you want a large piece.

Or, have a look at Tesco's Plantpak watering tray kit, which comes complete with trays and capillary matting, £12.99.

4. Cotton wicks

This is an idea that I think is genius, and I'll definitely be trying it!

Richard explains, 'You can use a cotton wick to water multiple plants at once while you are away. Bury one end of a piece of cotton twine or cloth a few inches deep into the soil of the plant. Submerge the other end of the cotton into a container or bucket filled with water, ensuring that the water is placed on a surface that is higher than the plant. The cotton will continuously drip water into the soil when it is dry.'

It works in the same way as capillary matting – the cotton cord continuously draws up water from a reservoir – and is a great value option.

You need to use 100% natural cotton string or rope. Amazon sell ten metres of self-watering absorbent cotton rope for £3.99.

5. Drip irrigation

'You can automate plant watering completely, whether you are on holiday or not, by using a drip irrigation system,' says Richard. 'The system hooks directly to your garden tap, and you can install a water timer to the faucet to control when water is released. Attach a soaker hose or drip system to the timer, and lay this across flower beds or into pots.'

When you are setting up a new watering system, Richard does advise testing it for a few weeks before you go away, 'You may need to adjust the water timer and pressure to find the right settings.'

We like the drip irrigation system 25 adjustable dripper from Easy Garden Irrigation, currently priced at £54.99. It has all the parts for up to 25 plant containers or 12.5 metres of hedging/six metres of flower borders.

Amazon have a 110 foot 90 pack kit with a quick connect system, it includes nozzles and sprinklers for your lawn too, £21.99.

Plant watering essentials

These great ideas from our experts are really worth trying, and after the hours of care we all invest in our plants and gardens, we want them to still look great when we get back from our holidays.

This summer has seen temperature extremes for the UK, and my grass is looking less than pleased right now. Unsurprisingly, the way you water your lawn in hot weather can have a huge impact on its condition – and it's something I've learned the hard way.

Contrary to popular belief, though, you shouldn’t water your lawn more. Just as there’s a correct way to mow your lawn in hot, dry weather, there’s also a right way to water it – and quality is better than quantity, according to the experts. Apparently, sprinklers are a little more redundant during heatwaves.

Here’s how you should be watering your lawn in hot weather.

What you'll need

If you take just one July lawn care tip on board during the height of a heatwave, make it this: don’t water your lawn every day.

‘Light, frequent watering encourages weak, shallow roots,’ says Jonathan Davis, grass expert at leading lawncare specialists Lawnsmith. ‘You're better off giving it a proper soak early in the morning or evening.’

That might sound counter-intuitive, especially when your grass is already looking yellow and worn – but according to experts, deep watering a couple of times a week is far better for your lawn’s overall health and longevity in future droughts.

‘A thorough watering once every few days does far more for a lawn than a daily light sprinkle,’ says grass expert Vania Zhang at Segway Navimow. ‘Deeper water encourages roots to grow down into the soil, making the turf naturally tougher when drought hits.’

Drought-tolerant planting is becoming more and more popular in the UK, and watering a lawn deeply rather than frequently in hot weather can toughen up your grass, too. You can still use a sprinkler, like this Hozelock Rectangular Oscillating Sprinkler from Argos, which can cover up to 220 square metres – but make sure you aren’t lightly sprinkling your grass every day, and stick to a deep soak once every few days instead. Plus, it’s usually easier to revive a dry lawn than you’d think.

‘When supplies are genuinely tight, water your most vulnerable plants first,’ says Vania. ‘Lawns are more resilient than they look and manage surprisingly well on a more targeted amount of water.’

Watering is crucial if you want to keep your lawn alive in a heatwave, but less is more for the making of drought-tolerant grass.

Garden experts are urging gardeners to check for these 5 things in their sheds this month, as temperatures become uninhabitable for some common store items.

I know when I’m too hot, I don’t work to the best of my ability, and the same can be said for some of the items in my shed. While the best shed ideas are perfect for maximising storage space, they hardly take into consideration extreme heat.

So, when temperatures reach above 30 degrees, some items are no longer suitable to be stored in the shed and need to be moved somewhere cooler.

1. Paint

When the weather reaches temperatures over 30, you really shouldn’t be storing your paint in a shed, as the high temperatures can affect the quality of your paint.

‘Paint, varnishes and other decorating products are some of the main items that shouldn’t be left in a hot shed because high temperatures can affect the quality and consistency of paint. It will separate, thicken or become difficult to use and even if the tin looks fine from the outside, the contents may no longer perform properly when you use them,’ explains Scott Godfrey, a construction trade consultant with Black Hammer.

‘Wood treatments, stains and some adhesives can also be affected by heat, which means you may not get the finish or strength you expect from them. If you have leftover paint you want to keep, store it somewhere cool, dry and away from direct sunlight.

2. Pesticides and weedkillers

If you use pesticides or weedkillers on your garden(although there are plenty of natural methods to get rid of pests), it’s important to move these products somewhere cooler during a heatwave.

‘Many garden chemicals become unstable or degrade in high heat, which can alter their effectiveness or make them hazardous. Some products also have a lower flash point than people realise. Always check the storage guidance on the label and keep these in a cool, dark environment rather than a shed that bakes in the afternoon sun,’ says Jamie Bloomfield, co-founder and director at Eden Landscapes.

3. Aerosols

Aerosols and extreme heat do not mix, which is why many cans come with warnings to keep them out of direct sunlight. During a heatwave, sheds can become unbearably hot and stuffy, which is a less-than-ideal environment for aerosols.

‘The issue is that sheds can get incredibly hot during periods of really warm weather, which can have a big impact. For some products like paints and adhesives, this can cause thermal and polymer degradation over time, which can affect their overall quality,’ explains Sue Taylor, product expert at Complete Construction Products.

‘That can be really frustrating, and something you don't realise until it's time to use it again. But another thing to consider is safety. Most aerosols have a max tolerance of 50C, which sheds could reach in enclosed spaces, especially if cans are exposed to direct sunlight. If that happens, then internal pressure can build up so much that cans can fail. Today, many cans are designed to tear apart rather than fragment to reduce potential injury, but they can still be a serious hazard.

‘To reduce the risk, move them outside to a well-ventilated and shaded spot, like a covered porch or near a north-facing wall. Keep them out of direct heat and away from anything metal that can add to the surrounding heat.’

4. Fuel and gas canisters

If you have a gas BBQ, I can’t imagine you’ve let it go to waste during all this sunny weather, which means you might have some gas canisters to store, too. But during a heatwave, this can actually be quite dangerous.

‘Gas canisters for barbecues or camping stoves are one of the most dangerous things you can store in a hot shed. High temperatures cause the gas inside to expand and the pressure inside the canister to rise sharply. A shed in direct summer sun can reach 50 to 60 degrees on a hot day, which is well above safe storage temperatures for pressurised gas. These should always be stored upright in a well-ventilated, shaded outdoor area away from any heat source,’ says Jamie.

5. Batteries

Lastly, you should avoid storing batteries - especially lithium iron batteries - in a shed during a heatwave. They can become a fire risk when the mercury soars, making it quite simply unsafe to keep them in a shed. Plus, the heat can affect how they work, too.’

‘Rechargeable batteries and cordless garden tool batteries are another item that shouldn’t be left sitting in a hot shed. Many modern garden tools use lithium-ion batteries, which can be sensitive to high temperatures,’ says Scott.

‘Repeated exposure to heat can reduce their performance and shorten how long they last, and won't hold their charge as well. It’s better to remove batteries from cordless mowers, strimmers and hedge trimmers and store them indoors at a stable temperature. The tools themselves can usually stay in the shed, but the batteries are the part that needs extra protection.

Now, you might want to check your shed for any of these items, and move them to somewhere cooler!

When the sun is beating down, patios can quickly become uncomfortably hot. And while parasols and pergolas can provide some welcome shade, Alan Titchmarsh's clever planting trick can also make spending time on your patio far more comfortable this summer.

In a recent Instagram reel, the gardening expert showed how he uses large, castor-wheeled planters, allowing him to move them around the garden with ease, refresh the layout, place plants in the best growing conditions, and change their position wherever they'll have the biggest impact.

And while it's a handy way to refresh the look of your outdoor space, it's also a clever solution to keep your patio cool in a heatwave. By moving tall, leafy plants beside your outdoor seating area, you can create more shade exactly where you need it, while taking advantage of the natural cooling effect plants have on the air around them. It's also one of the smartest small patio ideas if you're short on space and a flexible alternative to a fixed garden shade idea.

I asked experts why it's a trick well worth copying during hot weather.

How Alan Titchmarsh's moveable planters can cool a patio

Plants are a natural way to cool an outdoor space. Rather than absorbing and reflecting heat like paving and walls, they provide shade and release moisture into the air through a process called transpiration.

Richard Barker, a horticultural expert at LBS Horticulture, explains that the right plants can cool a patio by reducing the amount of heat reflected from surrounding surfaces and lowering the temperature around them.

'Plants with large leaves or dense foliage can stop sunlight from heating the patio's paving stones,' he explains. 'Their leaves also cover nearby masonry, helping to keep surfaces cooler and preventing heat from radiating back towards you. As plants release water vapour through transpiration, they absorb heat from the surrounding environment, helping lower the temperature.'

Garden expert Lucie Bradley, from Easy Garden Irrigation, says this makes a moveable planter an especially clever choice.

'Plants are a lovely, natural way to help cool down a patio area by providing shade, blocking intense sunlight and releasing water vapour into the air, which helps lower the temperature,' she says.

Because the planters are on castors, you can move them to wherever they're needed most throughout the day, whether it's beside your seating area, around a dining table, or to shield a particularly hot corner of your patio.

Shop planters on wheels

Lucie says that unlike heavy pots that stay in one place, wheeled planters offer flexibility. If one part of your patio becomes a sun trap in the afternoon, you can roll a lush planter into position to provide cooling shade, then move it again later.

They're also ideal for smaller, compact gardens where every inch counts. Rather than filling valuable space with permanent raised beds, moveable planters can be rearranged depending on how you use your patio. They can even be wheeled into a more sheltered position during extreme weather or colder months, making them useful year-round too.

Which plants will help keep a patio cool?

To get the biggest cooling effect, choose plants with dense foliage, broad leaves or an airy canopy that creates some dappled shade, says Lucie.

Richard recommends bay trees (pick up a 9cm pot from £9.99 at Thompson & Morgan) as one of the best options for containers. Their evergreen foliage creates natural shade throughout the year. Hostas (this hosta collection, £19.95 from Crocus, has a good selection) and ferns are equally effective, thanks to their large, leafy growth (I like this 'ostrich fern' variety for height, available at Crocus from £ 5.99). Ornamental grasses, like Pennisetum Alopecuroides 'hameln', £14.99 from Thompson & Morgan, are another great addition, reflecting more sunlight than dark paving, while their soft foliage sways in the breeze, helping air circulate around your seating area.

Lucie also recommends crepe myrtles (Rhapsody in pink, £89.99 from Thompson & Morgan is a beauty), whose airy canopy provides pockets of shade. Canna lilies, like this pretty peach variety, Canna x gereralis 'Cannova Bronze Peach'. £9.99 at Thompson & Morgan, are another standout choice, with their dramatic tropical foliage creating lots of shade. However, they do need plenty of watering during prolonged hot weather, especially when grown in containers.

Shop expert-approved plants

So there you have it! With temperatures climbing, creating a cooler outdoor space doesn't always require large or expensive shade structures.

Alan Titchmarsh's moveable planter trick is a flexible, space-saving way to bring lush planting exactly where you need it most, helping to make your patio look more expensive on a budget, as well as making it feel cooler and a much more comfortable place to spend time in during even the hottest days of the summer.

Peony season is almost over (sigh), but if you want the fluffy blooms to flower again next year, you’ll need to know what to do with peonies after flowering.

Most peony varieties will be putting out their last flowers of the year right now, and many already have. If you’ve learned how to grow peonies before, you’ll know that the plants are perennial, so they flower year after year – but how well they bloom again depends on the care you give them after their flowering period ends.

Luckily, aftercare is pretty simple. I spoke to the experts, and they told me that these are the two things you should do with peonies after flowering to conserve the plants’ strength for next year.

What you'll need

1. Deadhead correctly

Deadheading peonies is a fine art because you can’t remove too much of the plant – but once you know where to make the cuts, it’s dead easy.

‘Once your peony has finished flowering, nip the faded blooms off at the first leaf node below the flower to leave the foliage to feed the crown for next year's flowers,’ says The Peony Farmer, Elonor Tivey.

I use a pair of garden snips like these Niwaki Garden Snips from Amazon (they're so satisfying to use!) to deadhead my plants. It’s crucial that you leave the foliage alone, because that’s what powers next year’s blooms.

‘Leaving those glossy green leaves intact is the trick to having gorgeous blooms next year, so be careful when trimming back the foliage and remove only the diseased or damaged leaves for now,’ advises flower expert Shelley Davis from Flying Flowers.

‘When the foliage naturally turns yellow, that signals the plant is winding down for the season. After this point, stems can be cut back to just above ground level to help keep the plant healthy over winter.’

2. Feed the plants (and the soil!)

For a bonus boost, it’s also worth feeding your peonies after they’ve finished flowering.

‘Flowering takes a lot out of plants, so a little extra care after blooming goes a long way,’ says Shelley. ‘A balanced feed and some extra water during dry spells will help peonies replenish their reserves.’

Balanced is the buzzword here, and you'll want to avoid fertilisers with a high ratio of nitrogen. This Levington Bone Meal Multi-Purpose Plant Food from Argos is slow-release and high in phosphorus, which is exactly what peonies need at this time of the year.

Shelley also recommends mulching around the base of the plant with compost to feed the roots and retain soil moisture in hot weather. RocketGro Peat-Free Magic Mulch, which you can order from B&Q with next-day delivery, is a gardener's favourite (it suppresses weeds, too!).

Caring for peonies after flowering is simple: just deadhead them, leave the foliage alone and feed them!

Relaxing outdoors and dining alfresco are what summer is all about, but it’s no fun at all if you find yourself besieged by flies and bugs when you’re trying to take it easy or spend time with family outdoors.

For a natural solution that doesn’t involve harsh chemicals, choosing fly-repellent plants for patio containers is a brilliant way of making outdoor seating areas less attractive to pests, while at the same time making the space look more colourful too.

‘When it comes to fly-repellent plants, there isn’t one plant that will deter flies completely; it’s more a combination of different fragrant plants for containers that will work best,’ says David Denyer, flower and garden expert at Eflorist. ‘But the good news is that by choosing a variety of herbs and flowering plants for patio pots, they will make the space look beautiful while releasing strong fragrances that flies find unpleasant, meaning your patio and seating areas will be far less attractive for them to linger in over summer.’

1. Lavender

‘Whilst the gorgeous aroma of lavender is pleasant to us, flies are put off by the smell, making lavender the perfect choice to place in patio containers. Plus, lavender thrives in direct sunlight and copes well with dry spells and heatwaves like the ones we’ve been experiencing this summer,’ says David.

‘In addition, bees and pollinators are naturally drawn to lavender too, helping to deter unwanted flies and insects further.’

When it comes to growing lavender in containers, choose a roomy pot with good drainage and free-draining compost, like this Westland Multi Purpose Compost, £7.98 from Amazon, as lavender does best in fairly dry conditions. Terracotta pots are ideal due to their porous nature which allows the soil to breathe.

Where to buy lavender plants:

• Gardening Express: Enjoy fragrance and colour with these compact Munstead English Lavender - Lavandula angustifolia plants, £4.99.
• Thompson & Morgan: Or go for the nectar-rich Lavender 'Hidcote', from £7.99.

2. Basil

‘The best plants for deterring flies are those with strong scents that flies find unpleasant,’ says Chris Bonnett, founder of Gardening Express. ‘Growing herbs is an excellent choice, with varieties such as basil, mint and rosemary all giving off pungent aromas that flies dislike.’

‘Place basil in pots around your patio, particularly near seating areas, which will help keep flies at bay while you enjoy the sunshine. Gently agitating the leaves will help to release their scent.'

Basil can be grown easily from a shop-bought plant. It's a warmth-craving herb, so position containers in sunny, sheltered spots on the patio. And keep basil consistently watered, but don’t overwater, as it doesn’t like sitting in soggy soil. Check by pushing a finger into the soil to see how damp it is.

Where to buy basil plants:

• Gardeners Dream: Enjoy colour and fragrance with the unusual Purple Basil, £7.99.
• Amazon: Or add to your herb garden with these Basil Sweet Plants - 3 x 10cm Pot Herb Plants, £12.99.

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3. Rosemary

‘Rosemary is another easy-to-grow herb, releasing aromatic oils that deter flies, especially when disturbed or brushed against,’ suggests David. ‘As rosemary is a Mediterranean herb, it will flourish in sun-filled gardens and only requires minimal watering once established.’

When growing your own rosemary in containers, go for terracotta or clay pots, which allow the soil to breathe and prevent waterlogging. Fill containers with free-draining soil - adding grit or perlite, like this premium perlite for plants, £5.49 from Amazon, that will aid drainage - then position the container in full sun to ensure that your rosemary will thrive.

Where to buy rosemary plants:

• Gardeners Dream: Enjoy the intense aroma of this Rosemary 'Sissinghurst Blue', £13.99.
• B&Q: Or go for the upright ready-to-plant Rosemary Herb Plant, £11.99.

4. Mint

‘We all know the strong, fragrant smell of mint, but for many insects, including flies, that strong smell is too overpowering to go anywhere near it,’ says David.

‘When growing mint in pots, make sure to put it in its own pot to avoid it spreading into the borders of your garden, as it is a vigorous grower. Mint will die back over winter, but then regrows every spring, so it can live for many years. Nectar-rich purple, pink or white flowers appear in summer and are loved by pollinators.’

‘And let’s not forget the bonus of growing mint in your garden - being able to trim the leaves to use in your culinary dishes or as a garnish in your summer cocktails,’ adds David.

Where to buy mint plants:

• Amazon: Aromatic and flavourful, try this 'Moroccan Mint' herb plug plants, £9 for six.
• Suttons: Try these easy-grow mini plants - Mint 'Garden' Mentha spicata, from £14.99.

5. Citronella geraniums

‘Flowering plants such as citronella geraniums have a strong aroma that can help keep flies at bay,’ suggests Chris Bonnett, founder of Gardening Express.

‘Citronella geraniums, along with other citronella plants, like lemongrass and citronella grass, are particularly effective at deterring pesky flying insects and help by masking the scents of food and people that attract flies.’

A pretty and colourful plant that is ideal for patio containers, citronella geraniums have strongly aromatic lemon-scented foliage with small, single or double flowers in shades of pink, purple or white. Foliage can be given a light trim if required over summer to help plants keep their shape and size, with flowers deadheaded regularly to encourage more blooms.

Where to buy citronella geranium plants:

• Amazon: Enjoy these zesty Lemon Scented Geranium - Pelargonium Citronella Geranium in a 12cm Pot, £13.99.
• Carbeth Plants: Or swap lemon for orange with these Orange Fizz Scented Geranium Plants, £10.99.

6. Marigolds

‘Marigolds add a unique splash of colour to patio areas, and their distinctive smell will deter a range of garden pests and flying insects,’ suggests David. ‘If you pair marigolds with lavender and rosemary, you can create a patio display that’ll look stunning as well as be highly effective at deterring unwanted visitors.’

When it comes to growing marigolds in containers, opt for smaller varieties such as French marigolds, like these marigold French durango mixed bedding plants, £16.99 from Gardeners Dream, which are available in a range of dazzling yellows, oranges and reds, or try bushy Signet marigolds, like these Signet marigold 'lemon gem' seeds, £2.99 for 450, from Amazon.

Marigolds don't require a huge amount of growing space as their roots aren’t particularly deep or wide-spreading, so pots can be fairly compact unless several plants are grown together. And container material isn’t too important, as marigolds are happy growing in terracotta, clay, plastic or wood.

Where to buy marigold plants:

• B&Q: Add colour and fragrance with the striking Marigold African Orange Bedding Plants, £19.99 for 12.
• Gardeners Dream: Or go for a mix of sunny colours with these Marigold French Durango Mixed Bedding Plants, £16.99.

Are you bothered by pests outdoors? Are there any tricks and tips you have for deterring flies? Let us know.