As we get deeper into autumn and the weather starts to turn a little less favourable, I’ve been thinking about how we can make our gardens more weatherproof. So I’ve asked the experts to recommend five windproof plants that won't look broken and battered when the next gale-force wind or storm rolls around.

While planting new plants won’t be high up on your list of November gardening jobs, when high winds hit, I’ll bet you’ll wish you’d chosen shrubs and flowers that can withstand winter winds.

If you want your garden to thrive during windy weather, these are the plants experts recommend planting up.

1. Hardy geraniums

As the name suggests, hardy geraniums are low-maintenance and tough, making growing geraniums a highly popular choice for many gardeners. And they’re wind-resistant, too.

‘Hardy geraniums are good for windy gardens because they are low-growing and have dense foliage. Many varieties will hug the ground at the front of garden borders, so they are kept safely out of the worst of any strong winds,’ explains Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director from LBS Horticulture.

‘When they grow, they form tight, interlocking clumps that stabilise the soil and prevent the wind from blowing around individual stems. Unlike taller, top-heavy perennials that can snap easily or need staking in high winds, hardy geraniums have more flexible and sturdy lower structures that better handle being buffeted by the wind.’

Where to buy hardy geraniums

• Geranium Hardy Mix, £14.99, Suttons
• Geranium Hardy Double Trio, £14.99, Thompson & Morgan
• Geranium 'Dreamland', £9.99, Gardening Express

2. Ornamental grasses

Not only are ornamental grasses great for adding colour to an autumn garden, but they are good for withstanding high winds, too.

‘Ornamental grasses are ideal for windy gardens because their stems are designed to move with the breeze rather than fight against it. Varieties such as Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’ can cope well in exposed borders, adding height and structure without becoming too vulnerable to wind damage. They’re also relatively easy to maintain and look attractive through the changing seasons,’ says Stephanie Harrod, founder of Harrod Horticultural.

Where to buy ornamental grasses

• Calamagrostis × acutiflora 'Karl Foerster', £9.99, Crocus
• 3 x Ornamental Grasses in 9cm Pots, £17.99, B&Q
• Muhlenbergia capillaris, £9.99, Crocus

3. Photinia

Photinia is a fast-growing shrub that is ideal for creating privacy and shade in your garden. It’s one of the best hedging plants due to its glossy, red appearance and year-round privacy.

‘Photinia is a great plant for windy gardens due to its tough, flexible wood and dense foliage. The wood of many photinia varieties is very pliable, so it will sway in high winds instead of resisting and snapping,’ says Richard.

‘The glossy, thick cuticle of the plant's leaves protects them from wind scorch, preventing wind from stripping moisture from the foliage. Once established, photinia will have a robust network of roots that anchors it in the ground, reducing the risk of it being uprooted or suffering from root rot.’

Where to buy photinia

• Photinia Red Robin Garden Plant, £19.99, B&Q
• Photinia Fraseri Red Robin 9cm Pot x 2, £16.99, B&Q
• Photinia x Fraseri 'Louise' Evergreen Garden Shrub (9cm Pot), £10.99, B&Q

4. Lavender

Lavender, one of the best Mediterranean plants, and a beloved shrub at Ideal Home, due to its colour, fragrance and benefits to wildlife. The beauty of this gorgeous plant is that it's also incredibly tough and low-maintenance.

‘Lavender is a reliable choice for a sunny, exposed spot. Its narrow leaves help limit moisture loss, and its woody growth makes it reasonably resilient once established. As well as coping well with breezy conditions, it brings colour and fragrance to the garden and provides a valuable source of nectar for bees and other pollinators. It does need free-draining soil, though, as wet roots can cause problems,’ says Stephanie.

Where to buy lavender

• English Lavender, £9.99, Thompson & Morgan
• Verve Munstead Lavender Seeds, £2.80 at B&Q
• Lavender Hidcote Blue - Lavendula Hidcote, £7.99, Gardening Express

5. Hawthorn

Native to the UK, hawthorn is great for UK wildlife and supporting your garden’s ecosystem. Native hedging acts as a windbreaker, making it a top choice for windy gardens.

‘Hawthorn is well suited to windy gardens because of its natural structure and resilience. Instead of creating a solid wall that blocks wind, it allows wind to filter through and can slow it down in the process. As it is a deciduous native hedging plant, its branches can flex with strong gales instead of snapping like more brittle ornamental plants. If the plant is battered by the wind in a severe storm, it should be able to bounce back vigorously, as it is capable of coming back from hard winter pruning,’ says Richard.

Where to buy hawthorn

• 3ft Hawthorn (Crataegus Monogyna) Wildlife Friendly Bare Root Hedging Plants - Pack of 10, £29.99, B&Q
• Hawthorn (Hedging), from 99p, Suttons
• Crataegus x media 'Pauls Scarlet' - Double Crimson Flowering Hawthorn - Circa 2m Tall, £79.99, Gardening Express

Windy winters are not uncommon in the UK, and having a few plants that can withstand high winds can help keep your good looking good all year round.

Nancy Birtwhistle has taken to TikTok to show off her hedgehog-friendly garden, and wildlife experts are in agreement that it is a brilliant example to follow if you want your garden to support these critters this winter.

Hedgehogs are classified as ‘vulnerable to extinction’ on the Great Britain Mammal Red List, and the European hedgehog is rated near threatened globally by the IUCN, so we all need to take steps to make our gardens hedgehog-friendly.

If you want to support hedgehogs in cold weather, following Nancy Birtwhistle's example can help transform your outdoor space into a flourishing wildlife garden.

In her video, Nancy explains that two hedgehogs visit her garden every night, and she leaves out food and water for them. Aside from this, it is how her garden has been designed to help foster this attractive environment to hedgehogs. Nancy explains she uses no pesticides in her garden, has a wild and rugged patch and a hedgehog house - three important features that will support hedgehogs.

‘Hedgehogs are the nation's favourite garden visitor, but they really need our help. Their population is continuing to decline rapidly, and they face new challenges and threats - such as the risk of crossing roads, habitat loss and accidental death from garden machinery and ponds. Happily, there are measures we can all take which would make a huge difference for hedgehogs and would ensure our gardens are a safe and welcoming paradise for hedgehogs and other mammals,’ comments Dr Emily Lambert, conservation scientist and founder of Seedball.

What makes Nancy a good example is her garden’s ’rough patch’. Leaving an area of your garden wild provides hedgehogs with somewhere to hide and a food supply of insects (which make up the core of a hedgehog’s diet). It also provides them with nesting material when they hibernate.

Similarly, her hedgehog house will provide shelter against the cold, wind and rain, giving local hedgehogs somewhere safe to hunker down. Lastly, Nancy's choice not to use pesticides in her garden is also highly beneficial. Pesticides can harm hedgehogs if they consume them directly, and pesticides can wipe out the insects hedgehogs rely on for food.

How to make your garden hedgehog-friendly

If you want to support hedgehogs this winter, there are a few things you can do to create a safe environment, as Nancy has. According to Dino Decking, 61% of gardens contain potential hazards that could put hedgehogs at risk. Here’s how you can change this.

‘Take inspiration from Nancy and invest in a hedgehog house to give your prickly visitors somewhere safe and cosy to shelter. Place it in a quiet, sheltered corner of your garden, away from busy areas and direct sunlight, and add some dry leaves nearby for nesting material,’ suggests Julia Sixsmith, founder of Hindley Hedgehog Help and ambassador for Dino Decking's Hedgehog Highways campaign.

‘Put down the rake! Leaf piles, logs and undisturbed corners provide valuable shelter for hedgehogs, particularly as they prepare for winter hibernation. Leaving a wild corner of your garden untouched is one of the easiest ways to give wildlife a helping hand.

‘A shallow dish of fresh water and a little meaty cat or dog food can help hungry hedgehogs, particularly as they build up their energy reserves for winter. Just remember to avoid bread and milk, which can make them unwell, and keep feeding bowls clean.’

Julia also recommends checking for hedgehogs in your garden before you use a strimmer, clear garden waste or light a bonfire. This is because hedgehogs could be nesting in these materials. You should also consider installing a hedgehog highway in your garden.

‘Hedgehogs, as the name suggests, enjoy rustling through hedges, but the UK is facing a shortage of hedgerows! That’s not just the case in the countryside, as many people have opted to remove their hedges in gardens, in favour of fences and walls, which not only remove vital habitat and forage but also restrict the movement of hedgehogs, which have a huge territory,’ says Dr Emily.

‘Adding a Hedgehog Highway to your fence is a great way to help hogs get around without needing to cross busy roads. Adult hedgehogs can roam up to 3km a night, so by introducing wildlife corridors you can help your prickly pals search for food and shelter safely and with ease. Encouraging a wide range of insects in your garden can also help hedgehogs, especially when they begin to prepare their fat stores for hibernation.’

Take a leaf of out Nancy's book this winter and lend a hand to your local hedgehogs. I hope it brings you as much joy as it brings Nancy.

In 2026, an advent calendar is more than a sliver of chocolate each morning. Luxury Calendars are booming, but have you considered opting for something a little more thoughtful this Christmas? The Seed Revolution Wildflower Advent Calendar (£19.99 at Selfridges) has everything a gardener could need to create their own meadow.

I’m a huge fan of wildflower garden ideas. Whether you’re planting wildflowers that attract birds or creating a gorgeous cottage garden, these stunning native plants are vital for biodiversity, proving to be some of the best plants for attracting pollinators.

If you or a loved one is particularly green-thumbed, I believe this is one of the best advent calendars you can choose this year. Not only is it a great gift, but it will give your garden a natural boost, too.

Last year, B&Q dropped a beginner-friendly seed advent calendar for £15 that was filled with veg, herb and flower seeds. It thoroughly wowed Gardens Editor Sophie King, who described it as 'a dream come true for gardeners who love Christmas' and picked one up again this year.

In 2026, garden trends have solely focused on sustainability, and given that wildflowers are some of the most low-maintenance, sustainable plants you can put in your garden, I’m prepared to call the Seed Revolution Let It Sow Wildflower Advent Calendar the ‘it’ advent calendar for gardeners in 2026.

Behind each of the 24 doors on this advent calendar is a different packet of British wildflower seeds that can be planted in spring. Each packet has clear sowing and growing instructions on the back, making it beginner-friendly, too. Expect to get wildflowers such as white campion and self-heal, which is also brilliant for attracting bees.

According to Seed Revolution, the UK has lost 97% of its wildflower meadows since the ‘30s. The company is determined to make growing wildflowers simple, accessible and exciting for everyone. I think they’ve succeeded with this advent calendar. Not only is it great for gardeners to create their own meadow, but wildflowers also house and support wildlife, improve soil health and can hold carbon, helping fight climate change.

‘This is an advent calendar customers feel good about buying, and even better about gifting,’ says Max Mancroft, founder of Seed Revolution.

‘At Seed Revolution, our focus is on making growing feel accessible, exciting, fun and relevant to a new generation of gardeners. We’ve found that younger customers in particular respond incredibly to well-designed packaging, straightforward advice and products that take away some of the uncertainty that can traditionally surround growing from seed.

‘Whatever the weather does, we think there’s a real opportunity for our industry to make it easier for more people to get involved. Our ambition is to help build a new generation of gardeners by giving people the confidence to sow something, see it grow and discover how rewarding it can be.’

The advent calendar is available to buy for £19.99 from Selfridges’ Oxford Street store as well as online from Selfridges.com, from Seed Revolution’s website and in a number of garden centres across the country. Alternatively, here are a few more seed advent calendars you can shop for online.

And advent calendar that also benefits wildlife and your garden is right up our street! If you want beautiful wildflowers in your garden, or know someone else who does, this is a perfect choice.

Bonfire Night is an exciting time of year, but since it’s an outdoor event, there are a few garden jobs you’ll need to do before the fireworks begin.

Whether you’re hosting your own bonfire and firework displays or concerned about neighbouring ones, there are plenty of ways to prepare a garden for Bonfire Night. Besides your usual November garden jobs, you’ll need to pay extra attention to outdoor furniture and wildlife, as well as plants that pose a higher risk at this time of the year.

Check off this list of garden jobs to do before Bonfire Night to make sure your garden furniture, guests and wildlife are ready.

What you'll need

1. Check bonfire piles for wildlife

Sadly, bonfires pose a huge risk to wildlife that’s taken up residence inside them – so one of the first garden jobs you should do before Bonfire Night (especially before you light one) is to check for hedgehogs, bird nests and other animals like frogs and toads.

‘The safest approach is to collect your materials early, but only build the bonfire on the day you light it, ideally on a clear patch of ground,’ says James Ewens, wildlife expert at Green Feathers. ‘If a pile has been standing for a while, carefully dismantle it and move it to a new spot by hand just before lighting, as you never know who may have moved in.’

If you can’t dismantle it, James recommends checking it carefully with a torch and gently lifting it with a broom handle (not a fork) before lighting it from one side. It gives wildlife a chance to escape before the whole thing goes up in flames.

You could even build a hedgehog house before Bonfire Night to provide alternative accommodation, or buy one, like this Woodside Hedgehog House & Hibernation Shelter from Amazon.

2. Protect soft outdoor furnishings

Bonfire Night can pose a risk to garden furniture – especially those with soft furnishings like cushions and blankets.

‘Even if you’re not setting off fireworks yourself, your garden can still feel the effects of nearby displays,’ says Andrew White, outdoor expert at Harbour Lifestyle. ‘Sparks and embers can travel surprisingly far, so it’s a good idea to move any outdoor furniture under shelter or cover it with a breathable, water- and fire-resistant cover for the night.’

This Agadon Metal Cushion Box from B&Q is ideal for keeping outdoor cushions safe from the elements.

‘Aluminium and rattan sets should be wiped down the next day to remove any soot or residue that could discolour the frame,’ Andrew adds. ‘If you have a pergola or gazebo, remember to close the roof or canopy for an additional layer of protection from airborne debris.’

3. Check plants for fire risk

Some plants create hidden fire risks during a heatwave, and others, understandably, pose a hazard on Bonfire Night, too. According to Luke Dejahang, co-founder of Crown Pavilions, dry or dead growth, accumulated debris and proximity to fireworks or open flames can all increase the risk of unwanted garden fires.

'Some conifers contain resinous material, while dry growth can provide additional fuel if sparks reach the hedge,' Luke explains. 'Tall conifer hedges are particularly worth checking if they're close to entertaining areas, fences or garden structures. Remove dead material where safe to do so and keep bonfires and fireworks well away.'

Luke also cites pampas grass, bamboo, pine trees, eucalyptus and juniper as plants to be mindful of before Bonfire Night.

4. Check firework permissions

Hosting an evening of firework displays is exciting, but fireworks aren't allowed everywhere. To be on the safe side, you’ll need to make sure your property and neighbourhood permit fireworks before you invite guests over for Bonfire Night.

‘If you plan to host a small garden gathering with your own fireworks or sparklers, it’s essential to first check that you’re allowed to launch them at your property,’ says Andrew. 'Many rental agreements or neighbourhood policies prohibit private firework displays, and fines for breaching agreements can reach into the thousands – so it’s definitely worthwhile checking.'

5. Tidy your garden

Whether you host guests for Bonfire Night or not, it’s worth giving your garden some TLC before the 5th to make sure it’s prepared for any more storms that might crop up over the coming months.

There are several things to check on your patio after a storm, which will help you figure out which areas of your garden need the most attention.

‘Before Bonfire Night, it’s worth giving your garden a general tidy-up,’ says Amber Tunney, plant buyer at Cherry Lane Garden Centres. ‘Clear leaves and debris from patios and paths, and check that garden furniture and plant pots are secure, particularly if windy weather is expected.’

It’s also crucial that you don’t leave fallen leaves on your patio, as they can cause a number of cosmetic and safety hazards.

Complete these garden jobs before Bonfire Night to ensure a safe, organised space for autumn gatherings.

There’s a lot of buzz around mulching in the gardening world, and experts seem to recommend the technique left, right and centre. You’re probably wondering whether mulching is actually worth it – and which benefits matter the most.

Well, mulching (applying a layer of organic matter on beds, borders and containers) can do a lot of things for a garden, from offering frost protection to boosting soil health. It’s useful in every season, helping plants through temperature highs and lows, and it really can make a huge difference to how well your garden performs throughout the year.

So, is mulching worth it? Yes – and I’ve rounded up a few of the best benefits to prove it.

What you'll need

1. Provides frost protection

Winter is on the way, and that means temperatures are set to drop over the coming weeks. According to experts, mulching is absolutely worth the effort if you want to protect your plants from frost.

‘A layer of mulch acts like a blanket to protect the soil from frost,’ says James Ewens, wildlife expert at Green Feathers. ‘As we head into winter, the soil freezes hard, preventing birds from being able to dig for worms, and potentially killing your plants.'

There are several different types of mulch, but you might need to double up if your aim is to insulate plant roots.

‘If you are mulching with compost, protect it from the winter elements with a layer of straw, leaves, or grass clippings,’ says best-selling author and grow-your-own expert, Huw Richards, who has partnered with watering and hand tools brand GARDENA.

Strulch, which you can order from Amazon, doubles up as a slug and snail deterrent, too.

2. Saves roots from heavy rain

Frost protection isn’t the only weather benefit that makes mulching worth it – with El Niño on the scene, a layer of mulch could protect our plants from heavy rain, too.

‘Heavy rain can wash nutrients away and compact the soil,’ says Carl Jones of CJ Landscapes, landscape gardener and TrexPro composite decking installer. ‘Add a layer of organic mulch to protect plant roots and reduce erosion.'

Carl also notes that evergreen shrubs and groundcover plants can stabilise soil over winter. Living mulch plants suppress weeds, too.

3. Enriches the soil

Many mulches come enriched with nutrients and minerals, like RocketGro Peat-Free Organic Magic Mulch (available from £9.99 at Crocus), which feed the soil like a soil conditioner. That's why certain mulches are so good for vegetable gardens, often encouraging a bumper crop and tastier harvests.

'Aim for a depth of 5-7cm (2-3in),' advises Huw. 'As it breaks down, it adds organic matter and feeds the worms, fungi and other soil organisms that help create healthy, fertile soil.'

4. Keeps plants cool and hydrated in hot weather

Many gardeners use mulch to protect potted plants in hot weather, and the same method applies to border and bedding plants. An extra layer of organic matter provides well-needed shelter for plant roots during heatwaves.

Mulch is also famous for its moisture-retention benefits, since it keeps soil hydrated for longer. That way, you won't need to water your plants as often (which is especially handy during hosepipe bans!).

5. Improves soil structure

If you're wondering how to prepare your soil for winter, mulching is one of the best things you can do for empty beds and borders.

Besides enriching pots, beds and borders with nutrients, mulch can improve soil structure. It's what makes mulching so worth it for no-dig gardeners in particular – in healthy soil, there's no need to dig things over every time you want to plant something new.

‘Over time, regular mulching can improve soil structure and reduce the need for digging, making the garden easier to manage,’ says Huw.

Verve Garden Mulch, which is just £5 for a 50-litre bag at B&Q, is perfect if you're hoping to start mulching on a budget.

6. It's great for wildlife

One of the most surprising benefits of mulching, for me, is its advantage to wildlife. According to Green Feather's James, mulching with homemade compost, leaf mould or bark chippings is one of the best things you can do for garden wildlife during the cooler months.

'It feeds the soil and encourages earthworms, beetles, woodlice and other invertebrates – the foundation of the garden food chain,' explains James. 'Blackbirds, song thrushes, robins and wrens all forage among mulch and leaf litter, and hedgehogs, frogs and toads rely on the same invertebrates for food.

'People sometimes worry that mulch attracts slugs, but while it can provide shelter for them, slugs and snails are an important food for hedgehogs, frogs and song thrushes, so a wildlife-friendly garden tends to keep them in balance naturally.'

With so many benefits, mulching really is worth adding to your list of November garden jobs.

If you've already picked out and carved your pumpkin ahead of Halloween, have you thought much about how you'll dispose of it afterwards? Well, according to a wildlife expert, to make the most of your leftover pumpkin, you should consider adding it to your hanging bird feeder as a treat for the birds.

Whether you’ve grown your own pumpkins or picked one from a patch, you will still need to find an appropriate method to get rid of pumpkins post-Halloween.

If you’re a gardener who also attracts birds to your garden, adding pumpkins to a hanging bird feeder can be an effective energy boost during the winter months. Here’s why.

Why should you add pumpkin to a hanging bird feeder?

First things first, you should know that you can ONLY add pumpkin to a hanging bird feeder. This is because pumpkins can be toxic to other garden wildlife such as hedgehogs.

‘Our spiked friends, hedgehogs, will often eat pumpkin flesh, but it’s strongly advised not to let them! Hedgehogs are primarily insectivores, and pumpkins can upset their digestion, which leads to dehydration at exactly the time of year they need to be building fat reserves before hibernation,’ says James Ewens, bird specialist at Green Feathers

‘If you want to help hedgehogs, meaty cat or dog food or specialist hedgehog food with a shallow dish of water is far better.’

Because of this, you should place your chopped-up pumpkin or pumpkin seeds in a hanging bird feeder (as opposed to a ground feeder), so it is out of reach of hedgehogs and accessible to birds.

‘Pumpkin seeds are highly nutritious and high in protein and healthy fats. The flesh is less energy-dense but provides water, fibre and carotenoids; the pumpkin flesh, rind, and seeds are a source of vitamins A and C, magnesium, and iron,’ says James.

‘The seeds are especially helpful to birds, being rich in protein and fat; birds need this to maintain energy reserves, especially as we head into those bitter cold months. When natural food becomes scarce, and birds burn a lot of energy keeping warm through long, cold nights, they need supplementary feeding more than ever.’

How to prepare pumpkin for your bird feeder

If you do want to feed your leftover pumpkin to birds post-Halloween, you will need to prepare it correctly. Similar to how you must cook potatoes before putting them in a bird feeder, there are a couple of extra steps to take before putting the pumpkin in your feeder.

‘If the pumpkin has developed mould, it can be dangerous or fatal for birds, so ensure the pumpkin is still fresh before offering it to birds - no week-old pumpkins belong in your bird feeders. Equally important, paint and other unnatural, added materials must be removed from the pumpkin to ensure it is non-toxic. I’d even go as far as washing your pumpkin with warm water - no chemicals or soaps - to ensure it is free of any waxes or coatings,’ says James.

‘To prepare the seeds, scoop them out, rinse off the stringy pulp, and either feed them fresh or dry them out to feed birds through the winter. Never offer seeds that have been salted, oiled, sugared or spiced, as salt in particular is harmful to birds. If you’re roasting them for later, ensure this is without any additives.

‘Larger birds such as jays, woodpeckers and nuthatches can handle whole seeds, but chopping them helps smaller species like tits and finches.’

If you're not sure what to do with your leftover pumpkin flesh, adding it to your bird feeder is an easy method of disposal - and one that will benefit the local birds.

Monty Don just posted a new garden update, and his low-maintenance grass borders are a dream for wildlife.

If you’re looking for easy-care border plants, it’s worth looking at the photo Monty just shared on Instagram. Featuring ornamental grasses, lush foliage and stately seedheads, it’s a masterclass in creating a rich, wild planting scheme with low-maintenance perennials that provide interest all growing season – and a wildlife sanctuary.

Here’s a little bit more about Monty’s grass borders at Longmeadow, and how you can recreate the look in your own garden.

‘Grass borders to the right, jewel garden to the left,’ says Monty in the caption of his Instagram photo showing an overgrown section of garden that strikingly contradicts the formality of the jewel garden opposite.

It might seem like a disorganised way of creating a foliage border, but ornamental grasses are a genius way of adding height and texture to your garden with very little effort. Grasses like Calamagrostis x acutiflora 'Karl Foerster’, which you can order from Crocus, can grow up to 1.8 metres tall with their lush, feathery reeds.

If you’re looking for ornamental grasses for winter colour, Anemanthele lessoniana (available at Gardening Express) produces fronds that turn intense shades of yellow, orange and red, even during the colder months.

Monty Don’s low-maintenance grass borders also appear to feature the leftover heads of plume thistles (Cirsium rivulare 'Atropurpureum', which are available at Crocus). Blackened by the autumn weather, they provide seasonal interest, towering high above the other grasses in the border.

So, there really is a lot going on in Monty’s grass borders. Ornamental grasses and echoes of this year’s flowering plants all provide much-needed shelter for all manner of garden visitors, from insects to small mammals and amphibians – so they're a brilliant wildlife garden idea.

Despite the height of it all, it looks as though every plant supports itself – save for the square frame around some of the towering plume thistles – so it's an effortless section of the garden that lends a crucial helping hand to wildlife as we race towards winter.

What you'll need

Every garden needs its own haven for wildlife to support local insect, mammal, bird and amphibian populations, and if you’re after some fresh garden border ideas, Monty Don’s low-maintenance grass borders might be the inspiration you need.

Storm season is officially here, and if your garden has been left strewn with fallen leaves and branches from your neighbours’ trees, you may be wondering who is responsible for the clear-up post Storm Boelo.

Unfortunately, there are plenty of garden features that cause neighbourly disputes, and who is responsible for clearing up fallen leaves is one of them. And post Storm Boelo and Austen, we bet there are plenty of gardens that have had debris blown into them.

If you’ve found yourself knee-deep in leaves and branches this week, and have been scratching your head as to whose job it is to clear it all up, I’ve asked legal experts to explain who is responsible and why. This is what they told me.

Who is responsible for clearing up leaves and branches after a storm?

The short answer to who is responsible for clearing up fallen leaves and branches following a storm is simple. You are. If fallen leaves have blown onto your property, I’m afraid it is your responsibility to tidy them up.

'In most cases, the owner or occupier of the land where leaves or branches have fallen will be responsible for clearing them from their own property. A neighbour is not usually liable simply because leaves from their tree have blown onto adjoining land,’ explains Daniel Stern, partner and head of property litigation and contentious probate at Slater Heelis Solicitors.

‘If a healthy tree loses a branch due to exceptional weather, the affected homeowner will usually be responsible for clearing the debris from their property and, where damage has been caused, may need to make a claim under their buildings or contents insurance policy.’

You will only have a claim against your neighbour if it can be proven that the neighbour knew their tree was damaged or diseased ahead of the storm.

‘A neighbour could potentially be liable if their tree causes injury or property damage and they have failed to take reasonable care to manage a foreseeable risk. For example, if a tree is diseased or structurally unsafe, and a falling branch subsequently damages a roof, there may be grounds for a negligence or nuisance claim,’ explains Paula Moses, legal director in the commercial dispute resolution team at Blacks.

‘However, disease alone does not automatically make a neighbour liable, and a healthy tree falling during a storm would not necessarily amount to negligence.’

What can you do if your neighbour's tree keeps dropping leaves into your garden?

If your neighbour's tree is constantly dropping leaves into your garden, it can be a little frustrating, especially if you lack the mobility to keep clearing them up yourself. If this is the case, a polite, friendly conversation with your neighbour can go a long way.

‘There is nothing to stop you from asking your neighbour to help clear the leaves, and an informal conversation is often the best way to resolve this. However, there is generally no legal obligation for a neighbour to clear leaves that have naturally fallen onto someone else’s property, so any agreement to help would usually be a gesture of goodwill rather than a legal requirement. In this day and age, it might be better to offer to pay someone’s teenager to clear them up, perhaps at a shared cost,’ recommends Paula.

If you ask your neighbour, and they refuse, remember they are within their rights to do so. However, if you do believe the tree is a danger, Daniel recommends putting it in writing.

‘If you are concerned that your neighbour's tree is damaged, diseased or poses an ongoing risk to your property or the safety of others, you should raise your concerns with your neighbour and ask whether the tree has been inspected by a suitably qualified tree surgeon,’ he says.

‘If the neighbour refuses to engage and you believe there is a genuine safety risk, it is sensible to keep a record of your concerns in writing. This may assist if damage occurs in the future and questions arise about whether the risk ought reasonably to have been identified and addressed.’

It’s more than likely that we will see more storms in the coming months. So while you should definitely make a note of what to do with fallen leaves, you should also look at stormproofing your garden, patio and home. After all, it’s better to be safe than sorry.

If, like me, you sowed fresh lawn seed before the weekend storms, you’re probably wondering the same thing I am: Will grass seed grow after heavy rain?

Autumn is one of the best times to sow grass seed, but after high winds and torrential downpours, it’s not looking good for budding lawns. Grass seed needs moist conditions to sprout, it’s true – but too much water can be detrimental to germination and growth.

Will grass seed grow at all after heavy rain, though? I asked the experts – and found out what to do if your lawn seed is at risk after the stormy weather.

So, will grass seed grow after heavy rain? Thankfully, the wet weather won’t spell definite doom for our lawns-to-be – with a few caveats.

‘In many cases, yes, it will grow,’ says Guy Jenkins, consumer manager at Johnson's Lawn Seed. ‘In fact, moisture is key to grass seed germination. However, you don’t want the area to be completely saturated or waterlogged, as this will have an effect on the germination.’

If you haven’t spotted severe waterlogging on your lawn, your grass seed might be okay – it all depends on how well the water drained away.

‘If the rain has drained away or soaked into the soil after a heavy downpour and the ground is moist but not waterlogged, grass seed should germinate as normal,' says Jonathan Davis, lawn care expert at Lawnsmith.

‘The problems arise when water pools on the surface where grass seed has been sown. Seeds left sitting in standing water can rot and be starved of oxygen, so they won’t grow. Sadly, a lot of grass seed is wasted this way.’

Jonathan also notes that heavy rain can wash seeds away or push them into clumps, explaining, ‘You’ll still get growth, but it tends to result in a patchy lawn with thick tufts in some places and bare soil in others.’

How to rescue grass seed after heavy rain

If you spot signs of water pooling or flooding, these lawn care tips might just save your grass seed...

What you'll need

1. Redistribute the seed

If you haven’t improved your lawn drainage fast enough and you’re worried that heavy rain has gotten the better of your grass seed, start by checking if the seed has been washed into patches.

‘If seed has moved and bare areas have appeared, wait until the ground is workable and then use a rake to redistribute the seed across the affected areas,’ advises Guy from Johnson's Lawn Seed.

If you’re in need of a new rake, this Verve Landscaping Rake from B&Q is top-rated.

‘You should typically start to see germination within seven to twenty-one days,’ Guy adds. ‘If the lawn is noticeably patchy after this period, overseed the affected areas to help achieve a thicker, more even lawn.’

I’ve used Westland PureGreen Lawn Seed (also available at B&Q), and it’s sprouted successfully regardless of the stormy weather.

2. Aerate your lawn

If, however, your lawn has flooded, it's worth learning how to aerate your lawn.

‘If heavy rain is forecast, aerating your lawn is the best defence for your seeds,’ says Jonathan from Lawnsmith. ‘Aerating creates small channels in the soil so water drains through it instead of pooling on the surface or running off.’

You could use a garden fork to aerate your lawn, or invest in a dedicated tool like the Crystals Metal Lawn Aerator from Amazon. Jonathan recommends keeping aeration light at this time of the year to avoid disturbing the seed or stressing the existing lawn, so try to stick to the waterlogged areas first.

3. Cover the seed

You could also cover the grass seed with some topsoil, like this Westland Lawn & Turf Dressing from Crocus, to add another layer of defence.

‘A thin layer of topsoil or compost will help seed stay in place and improve lawn drainage,’ explains Jonathan.

‘You could also cover your seed with a light, natural material to prevent the seeds being washed away, which keeps birds from eating the seed, too.’

If you’re sure your grass seed is beyond help and want to try again with added protection, you could even try this H2O GrowTrax Lawn Repair Fabric from Argos, which contains seed, fertiliser and mulch in a single roll.

So, grass seed will germinate after heavy rain – you'll just need to keep an eye out for any waterlogging and tackle flooded areas as soon as you can.

Autumn gifts us a cocktail of fallen leaves, wind and rain, but together, they're a dangerous combination – and experts say you should never leave fallen leaves on your patio.

Why? Well, wet leaves can create a number of problems, from safety hazards to cosmetic damage. They’re one of the first things you should check on your patio after a storm, because leaving wet leaves on paths and pavers could spell disaster for a garden.

So, why should you never leave fallen leaves on your patio? I spoke to the experts to find out.

What you'll need

Some gardeners believe you shouldn’t clear every leaf from your garden, but when it comes to the patio, it’s a very different story.

The most obvious reason? After wet weather, fallen leaves quickly become a slip hazard.

‘Wet leaves can make patios very slippery, so it's best to sweep them up regularly, especially after heavy rain,’ says Amber Tunney, plant buyer at Cherry Lane Garden Centres.

It’s trickier to clear wet leaves using a leaf blower or vacuum, but high-power models like the Flymo PowerVac Corded Leaf Blower and Garden Vac (available at Argos) can tackle them far more easily.

Leaving fallen leaves on your patio can cause cosmetic issues and structural damage, too, because they tend to trap a layer of moisture during the damper months.

‘Wet leaves can stain porous paving as they break down, and encourage moss and algae to develop,’ says Andrew White, outdoor expert at Harbour Lifestyle.

The last thing you’ll want to do is look for ways to remove algae and moss from a patio, so it’s best to sweep up leaves as soon as you spot them. If you'd prefer to do that manually, it’s worth looking at dedicated leaf-collecting tools like the Spear & Jackson Garden Tidy Leaf Grabber from QVC.

Luckily, there are plenty of ways to use fallen leaves in the garden after you’ve collected them.

‘Rather than throwing them away, you can add fallen leaves to your compost heap or collect them to make leaf mould, which is great for improving your garden soil,’ says Amber.

If you want to keep your patio in tip-top condition and avoid slip hazards, it's best to clear fallen leaves as soon as you can.

After a weekend of high winds and heavy rain from Storm Austen and Storm Boelo, it's safe to say UK gardens have seen better days – and according to experts, there are several things you should check on your patio after a storm.

There are various ways to rescue a garden from storm damage, but this week, you're probably more worried about structural damage after heavy rain and winds. Puddles, debris and broken furniture are among the biggest hitters – and you’ll need to see to any repairs before another storm hits and makes matters worse (El Niño’s on the scene, after all).

Experts say we should check these four things on our patios after a storm to keep our gardens in tip-top condition going forward.

What you'll need

1. Damage and debris

The weekend storms caused various types of property damage, and much of the fallout was on our patios. To start with, you'll need to look for any obvious signs of damage and debris, and avoid leaving fallen leaves on your patio.

‘After a storm, check your patio for any damage, particularly loose paving slabs, fallen branches or broken plant pots that could be a trip hazard,’ says Amber Tunney, plant buyer at Cherry Lane Garden Centres.

‘Start by clearing away fallen leaves and debris,’ adds Andrew White, outdoor expert at Harbour Lifestyle. ‘Use a soft-bristled brush on delicate paving to avoid scratching the surface. If you already have a slippery build-up, use a cleaning product suitable for your paving material and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.’

It’s worth investing in a high-quality patio cleaner that's safe to use around pets and wildlife for any stubborn marks left after the storms. This Charles Bentley Set of 2 Stiff and Soft Broom Set from Argos is ideal for sweeping up debris.

2. Puddles

Storm Austen and Storm Boelo also delivered torrential rain, and the resulting puddles on the patio are no laughing matter. They’re another important thing to check up on after a storm, because they can deal a surprising amount of damage long-term.

‘Next, look for puddles that aren’t draining away, loose paving slabs, or washed-out joints between the slabs,’ says Andrew. ‘Persistent standing water can weaken paving joints and, when temperatures drop below freezing, expand and worsen existing cracks.’

To dry out a flooded garden and deeper puddles, it’s worth investing in a pump like the GARDENA 2-in-1 Submersible Pump from Amazon, which draws up excess water from the ground.

3. Blocked drains and gutters

High winds blow leaves into unwanted places, like drainage channels. If that’s the case, you’ll need to learn how to clear leaves from your gutter.

‘Clear any blocked drainage channels and check that water isn’t collecting around the base of walls, fences or pergola posts,’ says Andrew. ‘Clear leaves from drainage gates rather than pushing them into corners.'

This gutter cleaning tool from B&Q has an extendable pole to help you reach higher drainage systems.

'If water continues to pool after you’ve cleared the drains, it’s worth getting the patio’s drainage assessed before the problem leads to more costly repairs,' Andrew adds.

4. Garden structures

Your hard-earned garden furniture ideas are vulnerable to storm damage, so it’s worth assessing patio sets this week.

‘Check garden structures such as fences, pergolas and screens for leaning posts, loose fixings and movement around joints,’ says Andrew. ‘Look for weakened connections, rust on metal frames, and splits in wooden joints, as these can all worsen with continued exposure to rain and wind.’

It’s worth learning how to weatherproof your garden furniture to keep it in tip-top condition, or even store your outdoor furniture to protect it from storms. Or, you could buy outdoor furniture covers like this Vonhaus Waterproof Garden Furniture Set Cover from Amazon.

‘Outdoor furniture covers are worth their weight in gold during autumn and winter, protecting against persistent rain and dirt,’ adds Andrew.

Check these four things on your patio after a storm to help you prepare for the next one.

Carving pumpkins for Halloween and putting them out on the doorstep is one of those yearly rituals that we all love. But once the festivities are over, I’m always struck by how wasteful it feels to just throw discarded pumpkins in the bin, so thinking about ways I can make use of pumpkins after Halloween is a must.

Leaving pumpkins out in the woods for wildlife to eat is a definite no when it comes to getting rid of pumpkins after Halloween. Once left outside, they start to decompose and go mouldy quite quickly, plus pumpkins aren’t natural to woodland, so they can make wildlife like hedgehogs, foxes and deer unwell or spread disease if they eat them. And decorated pumpkins often have traces of candlewax or other foreign objects on them that could be harmful to animals too.

‘It's easy to think of a pumpkin as something only useful for Halloween, but it's actually a valuable organic material that people can put to good use,’ says Rachel Cole, senior seed and plant buyer at DT Brown. ‘With a little planning, you can reduce waste while returning nutrients to the soil, which is a simple but worthwhile step towards more sustainable gardening.’

1. Dry out pumpkin seeds for planting

When I carved pumpkins last year, I made a point of saving some seeds so I could plant them and grow my own pumpkins instead of buying them at the supermarket, which was a big success and cost me nothing.

How to save pumpkin seeds is pretty easy; all you need to do is separate the seeds from the flesh, wash them, and then leave them to dry on a sheet of kitchen paper.

Once thoroughly dry, I simply packed them away in an envelope, ready for when to plant the pumpkin seeds in the springtime. Two planted-up seedlings gave me a crop of four pumpkins this year.

2. Roast pumpkin seeds to eat as a snack

With more than enough pumpkin seeds for planting, I’ve also tried roasting the leftover seeds in the oven…and they make a really tasty snack.

There are a couple of options when it comes to roasting pumpkin seeds, but start by separating them from the flesh first, washing them thoroughly and then leaving them to dry on kitchen paper to get rid of any excess moisture (which will make them steam rather than crisp up).

Then it simply depends on what you want to flavour your pumpkin seeds with before you roast them. Toss them in a little olive oil to coat them first and then add your seasoning, whether salt or spices like paprika or garlic. Then just place them on a greased baking tray and roast in a 200C oven for around 10- 15 minutes, turning them every 5 minutes, before leaving to cool.

3. Add pumpkin to your compost bin

‘For pumpkins that are no longer fit to eat, composting is one of the most practical options,’ says Rachel. ‘The flesh breaks down relatively quickly and can contribute organic matter to homemade compost. However, they contain a lot of moisture, so I'd recommend cutting them into smaller pieces before adding them to your compost heap.’

‘Getting the balance right is important. Pumpkin flesh is a nitrogen-rich, moist material, so adding too much at once can leave a compost heap wet, compacted or unpleasant-smelling. Mixing it with dry, carbon-rich materials such as fallen leaves and small amounts of woody garden waste, and turning the heap occasionally will help maintain airflow and encourage decomposition. Once homemade compost has fully decomposed into a dark, crumbly material, it can be used to improve soil structure and support future planting.’

4. Enrich the soil by burying your pumpkin

If, like me, you don’t have a compost bin in your garden, you can still reap the benefits by burying your discarded pumpkin in a flower bed or border so that it decomposes and enriches the soil around your plants.

‘If you have an empty bed that you're preparing for future planting, burying small pieces of pumpkin under the soil can be another way to make use of it,’ suggests Rachel. ‘The key is to keep the material away from plant stems and to give it time to break down before you start growing in that spot.’

5. Consider ‘no-carve’ pumpkin decorating ideas

While carving a pumpkin for Halloweeen is the traditional method, there are some brilliant ‘no-carve’ pumpkin decorating ideas that are safer and super-easy to do. I’ve tried stencilling with black marker pen, colouring pumpkins with paint and decorating with stick-on foliage. And the benefit of choosing one of these decorating methods is that the pumpkin won’t deteriorate so quickly, meaning that the insides can then be used for cooking.

‘When it comes to disposing of a pumpkin, it’s important to check its condition first,’ says Rachel. ‘An intact pumpkin that has been kept indoors and stored properly might still be suitable for cooking, provided it is a food-safe variety and shows no signs of deterioration. However, once a pumpkin has been left outside, or if it has held a candle or other light inside, it is best not to eat it.’

6. Make a bird feeder

Of course, pumpkins are delicious when cooked, whether for soup, roasted in the oven or as a filling for pumpkin pie. But if you’ve cooked up a batch of pumpkin-flavoured treats and are left with a hollowed-out pumpkin, you can still make good use of it.

The shell of a pumpkin can make a great temporary bird feeder for the garden. If you have a large pumpkin, simply cut it in half to make two smaller bowls, pierce holes into the sides of each and loop wire through so you can hang the bowls from a tree branch. Or if you have a carved pumpkin that you're finished with, carve out a larger hole in the side (like the one above) so you can use it as a bird feeder. Just nestle it somewhere high up so birds can fly in and perch on it to feed.

Once in place, fill your pumpkin feeder with seed or bird feed. And do make sure to remove the feeder when the pumpkin starts to rot.

7. Donate to a local zoo or wildlife centre

‘Lastly, if you have a spare whole pumpkin, you could also consider contacting a local zoo or animal sanctuary to see whether they accept pumpkin donations for suitable animals,’ suggests Rachel. ‘Some zoos and sanctuaries use pumpkins as seasonal enrichment or food for certain species, but it is important to check with them first, as donations may be subject to specific requirements.’

So there are plenty of ways you can re-use your pumpkin after Halloween and your garden will thank you for it.

With heavy rain and storms forecast for the next few months, it’s a wise idea to learn how to prepare your lawn for El Niño (autumn-winter edition). El Niño refers to a weather pattern that occurs every two years, caused by the warming of the sea surface; it can lead to summer heatwaves and increase the risk of colder winters in the UK. But this year's is predicted to be particularly strong.

El Niño's hitting our lawns with a double whammy this year: the summer heatwaves left dry, compacted plains behind, and those conditions, along with the impending wet weather, make flooding a lot more likely. Turns out, we'll need all the lawn care tips we can get if we want our gardens to survive the autumn and winter.

Luckily, there are a few ways you can prepare your lawn for El Niño's impact over the months ahead...

What you'll need

1. Aerate your lawn

If your lawn is anything like mine, it’ll be sun-baked and compacted after the hot summer. According to The Grass People’s Chris McIlroy, some soil might even be hydrophobic now, causing water to run straight off the surface and flood nearby paths, patios and drains. Luckily, there’s a simple fix that'll help prepare your lawn for El Niño.

‘Aerating the lawn relieves some of this compaction,’ says Chris. ‘It involves creating small holes in the soil to allow air circulation.’

Learning how to aerate a lawn is as easy as that. We recently used the Kent & Stowe Aerator tool, which you can order from Marshalls Garden. It’s a hollow-tine aerator that pulls small cores of earth from the lawn to aid soil compaction and promote root growth.

2. Sow new grass seed

Interestingly, overseeding can help a lawn cope better in El Niño’s rainy weather, too. Apparently, less bare patches mean less water pooling.

‘Grass absorbs rainwater far better than bare soil, so filling in thin or patchy areas now will help your lawn cope with wetter weather over the coming months,’ says Chris.

I used the Miracle-Gro Drop Spreader to sow grass seed evenly across my lawn, and I ended up finishing the job in half the time it would take to overseed by hand.

‘Thicker, well-established lawns also have stronger root systems which can absorb water and remain resilient against challenges including waterlogging,’ Chris adds.

We’re running out of time to sow grass seed this year, so it’s worth ordering in some fast-growing lawn seed like Pronto Speedy Seed from Amazon.

3. Clear fallen leaves and debris

Besides those lawn care tasks, you should avoid leaving fallen leaves on your lawn, along with other debris that can create a wet blanket above the grass.

‘A thick layer of wet leaves can trap moisture against the grass, block sunlight and create the perfect conditions for moss and fungal diseases to develop,’ says Cheryl Harper, managing director of Greensleeves Lawn Care. ‘A quick rake every few days can make a real difference, particularly after heavy rain or strong winds.’

This steel leaf rake from B&Q is a bargain for £10.

Completing these lawn care tasks now will prepare your lawn for the effects of El Niño over the months ahead.

Spooky season is officially here, and many of us will be joining in on the fun by decorating our homes. But did you know that one popular decoration can actually cause more harm than good to local wildlife?

If you have young kids, or just like an excuse to get creative with your home, your mind is likely running wild with Halloween decor ideas. However, experts are urging us to rethink how we decorate this Halloween, warning that fake spider webs can cause harm to friendly creatures like birds, hedgehogs, bats and insects.

I asked the wildlife experts all you need to know, including the wildlife-friendly decor alternatives you can try instead.

Why are fake spider webs harmful?

More and more houses this year are embracing Halloween this year by using fake spiders web decorations outdoors. But these playful props can take a nasty turn for many native wildlife species.

‘Wildlife can easily become caught in fake spider web decorations commonly used around Halloween, especially the artificial cobwebs,’ explains Lucy Taylor, wildlife expert from Vine House Farm. ‘Compared to real spider webs that break apart easily under the weight or larger animals, synthetic spider web decorations can be made from tough, stretchy plastic that can become tightly wrapped around wildlife.’

‘The stretchy, cotton-style webbing sold for Halloween is made of fine synthetic fibres that are very hard for an animal to break or bite through,’ agrees Mosh Latifi, co-owner of EcoCare Pest Management. ‘Once a bird, bat or small mammal gets a wing, foot or leg caught, the more it struggles and the tighter the strands wrap. It is a bigger problem than most people realise because the decoration is designed to cling to whatever touches it.’

Not only are birds, bats and hedgehogs at risk of getting trapped in fake spider webs, but the decorations also pose a risk if ingested by wildlife. ‘The non-biodegradable plastics or fine mesh can be picked up by small animals like hedgehogs or foxes, and poses a serious choking on internal blockage hazard,’ explains Lucy. ‘Many birds also use real spider silk when building their nests, and cannot distinguish between natural and artificial spider webs,’ leading to an increased risk.

There are two kinds of fake webbing that seem to be popular around this time of year. Spray webs designed for use on hedgerows are known to put animals at risk, with wildlife experts issuing warnings about them most years. However, the larger, plastic webbing – which seems to be increasingly popular this year – can be just as dangerous.

‘Spray-on webbing is less of a tangling risk once it has dried, though it can still coat small insects and hang about in hedges and shrubs. But the bigger concern is the stretchy cotton-style webbing and the larger netted webs,’ explains Mosh. ‘These work in the same way as garden netting. Anything with holes wide enough to get a head, wing or leg through is a risk, especially when it is hung outside, over hedges, or left up for weeks.’

What to do if you see wildlife stuck in a web decoration?

This Halloween there seems to have been a rise in spider web decor, so I asked the experts how you should help if you witness an animal in distress.

Generally, you should always contact a local organisation (like the RSPCA) first before attempting to help the animal yourself. ‘If you find wildlife tangled in a spider web decoration, you should resist the urge to untangle and release it, as it may have injuries that are not obvious at first and may require medical attention,’ advises Lucy. ‘Instead, contact a local wildlife rescue or organisation for guidance. Once the wildlife has been safely removed and handed over to rescuers, remove any remaining outdoor web decorations to prevent other wildlife being trapped.’

However, if you are advised to help the animal yourself, it’s important to remain calm and take precautions. ‘Stay calm and keep your distance at first,’ says Mosh. ‘Frightened animals can bite or scratch, so wear thick gloves and, for a larger animal, wrap it loosely in a towel.'

'Do not pull the strands of the web, as this can tighten them. Use small, blunt-ended scissors to cut the webbing away in pieces, taking great care not to cut the animal,' he adds. 'If you cannot free it safely, or it is injured, put it in a ventilated box somewhere quiet and call the RSPCA or a local wildlife rescue again.’

How to decorate instead

Just because outdoor webs might not be the best choice of Halloween decor, it doesn’t mean you can’t still have fun with the holiday. ‘If you already have fake spider web decorations these are better used inside only, where they will not pose a risk to wildlife,’ suggest Lucy.

‘If you are decorating the exterior of your home for Halloween, try to use decorations that do not contain plastics. Try to use solid objects over decorations that use ropes, ribbons, string or any other materials that could cause animals to become tangled,’ she adds.

Plus, you should be careful with your pumpkin decor too. ‘If decorating with pumpkins, these should be brought inside at night so that they are not eaten by animals as they can make certain wildlife unwell,’ says Lucy.

These spooky buys are a great choice if you want some Halloween fun, without putting wildlife at risk.

Is there a tree overhanging your garden, or is a hedge causing a little issue with your neighbours?

Who owns a tree and/or hedge between two houses can be a contentious problem to deal with and is similar to 'who owns a fence', especially when the boundary is unclear – the 'left-hand rule' is now deemed a widespread property myth, where we all thought that the left side of our gardens was ours.

So how do we find out who owns the tree or hedge, and what other issues can arise in this situation? We ask our experts who give us the lowdown on what's what.

1. Establish ownership

Determining ownership is the first port of call before anyone can move forward if the tree or hedge has become a problem.

'The place to start when trying to find out who owns a tree or hedge is to check your house deeds – which you can do by using the HM Land Registry,' advises Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Harvst Automatic Watering. 


Lucie explains, 'When you check your house deeds you should find boundaries marked with a thick red line which outlines the general extent of your property, though this is not millimetre precise. However, you can also look on the deeds for ‘T’ marks, which you should see on the inside of the boundary line – if the ‘T’ is on your side, then you are responsible for that boundary feature – whether it’s a fence or wall. You may also see two ‘T’ marks placed next to each other on a boundary line - so they form a ‘H’ and this indicates that you share responsibility.'

This is the best place to start, but not always as straightforward as we might like.

2. Trunk positioning

The key is to determine where the trunk or main stem sits in relation to the legal boundary.

Kara Gammall, home insurance expert at MoneySuperMarket says, 'If the trunk is entirely on one property, the tree will generally belong to the owner of that land, even if its branches or roots subsequently grow into a neighbour’s garden.'

It’s also worth remembering that the position of a fence isn’t necessarily definitive proof of the legal boundary – you don't want to break the law in your own garden. 'Over time, fence boundaries can move, so check the property deeds or any historic documents before assuming anything,' advises Kara.

3. If it straddles the boundary line

'If the trunk straddles the boundary, establishing ownership can be more complicated,' says Kara.

In this instance, it can be worth talking to your neighbour to see if you can come to an agreement.

'You can also inspect the hedge or tree to work out, according to the border of your property, if its base or main stems are planted on your side,' suggests Lucie. 'If it is half on your side and half on your neighbour's, then this implies it is a ‘shared’ item, and you should make an agreement with each other regarding its care or whether it needs heavy pruning or removal, and you both need to agree before carrying out any irreversible changes.'

4. Encroaching branches

This can be a common problem, especially during spring and summer when trees and hedges become more lush.

'If your neighbour’s branches or roots are growing over your boundary, you generally have the right to prune a tree back to the encroaching growth on your side of the boundary,' advises Kara. 'However, you shouldn’t cross onto your neighbour’s land or cut anything beyond your boundary without permission. It’s also sensible to speak to your neighbour before carrying out work, particularly where substantial pruning could affect the health or stability of the tree.'

Another thing to consider is if your neighbour has a fruit tree and they aren't picking up the fruit, as it can become a pest issue.

5. Protected trees

'It’s also worth remembering that you can’t legally ask your neighbour to cut down or prune part of a healthy tree just because you don’t like the appearance,' shares Kara. 'Some trees may be protected by a Tree Preservation Order (TPO).'

Ian Wilson, managing director and home insurance expert at Tiger.co.uk, agrees, 'Checking whether a tree is subject to a Tree Preservation Order (TPO) is essential, as pruning a protected tree without permission can lead to serious legal consequences and fines of up to £20,000. Another thing to be aware of is if birds are nesting, as it is illegal to disturb or harm nesting birds under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981.'

You can find out if the tree has a TPO attached to it via your local council; they should have a section on their website for Tree Preservation Orders and Conservation Areas. You then type in your postcode, and it should show up if there are any. Or try TPO Checker which will give you an approximate idea, but you will still need to contact your local council for more specific details.

Tree and hedge pruning essentials

'Ultimately, where a tree sits directly on a boundary, or there is disagreement over who owns it, it’s better to establish the legal position before carrying out any work,' advises Kara. 'A conversation with your neighbour and any documentation can help prevent any disputes.'

Looking to spruce up your garden before winter arrives? You’ll need a few of the best autumn-flowering shrubs for pots if you want to enjoy colour and scent at this time of the year.

I’ve listed a few of the best autumn-flowering shrubs before, but some varieties will perform better in containers than others. You’ll generally need tough, compact plants to fit the bill – and there are a beautiful selection to choose from.

I’ve rounded up a few of the best autumn-flowering shrubs for pots, recommended by the experts, to help you infuse some extra life into your garden.

What you'll need

1. Fuchsias

Fuchsias are one of my all-time favourite shrubs because they flower for such a long time (and look like fairies!). If you choose hardy varieties, they make beautiful autumn-flowering shrubs for pots.

‘One shrub which is often overlooked for autumn interest is Fuchsia, but Fuchsia magellanica will flower well into the autumn, and the intense colour of cultivars such as ‘Thalia’ work really well in low light levels,’ says Topher Martyn, head gardener at Syon Park.

‘They’re not super tough, but cold autumns seem to be a thing of the past, and they’re definitely worth a try – especially if you have a sunny corner.’

You can order a Hardy Fuchsia Collection from QVC and add the young plants to your garden now.

2. Elaeagnus

David Domoney recently recommended Elaeagnus for autumn scent, and Topher thinks it’s one of the best autumn-flowering shrubs for pots, too. The flowers are small and subtle, but they pack a real punch with their fragrance.

‘Another favourite is Elaeagnus, which is available with a variety of leaf colours and variegations,’ says Topher.

‘One real star is Elaeagnus ‘Gilt Edge’, where the leaves have a delicate golden margin, but there’s a good number of choices available. Best of all, they’re tough as old boots, and while the flowers are tiny, the fragrance is intense and fills the air on a still autumn day.’

Elaeagnus ebbingei 'Maryline' (available at Gardening Express) is another top contender if you’re on the hunt for fragrant shrubs to plant in October.

3. Heather

Despite their name, many winter-flowering heathers burst into bloom from late autumn. They’re a recommendation from Dave The Plantman, in conjunction with outdoor garden pottery manufacturer Mims Pottery, for gardeners looking for autumn-flowering shrubs for pots.

‘Winter-flowering Erica are grown for their foliage and flowers in many different colours,’ says Dave. ‘They can be bought in 9cm, one-litre and larger pots, as well as six-packs.’

If you don't want to wait until late November, you can buy Calluna heathers like this pack of 3 plants from B&Q for autumn blooms.

4. Viburnum

Another late autumn favourite, Viburnum tinus thrives in pots and produces delicate flowers from November through winter. It's a shining example of container plants that burst into bloom by Christmas.

‘Viburnum tinus is a brilliant evergreen shrub or small tree with clusters of white or pink-tinged flowers that emerge from late autumn and carry right through winter,’ says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. ‘Compact and easy to grow, it thrives particularly well in a sheltered spot.’

Viburnum tinus is readily available in a range of sizes at Crocus.

Autumn-flowering shrubs can really brighten a garden up as the weather turns cold. For year-round structure, it's worth planting evergreen shrubs in October, too.

With so much of the garden fading fast and dying back right now, it can be tempting to get busy with the secateurs and cut everything down for a neat look. But while many plants benefit from an autumnal pruning, there are certain plants you should never prune in October…and knowing the difference is crucial.

‘A tidy garden does not have to mean a completely bare one,’ says Pim Dickson, Senior Horticulturalist at Fothergill’s. ‘When it comes to October gardening jobs, it's a great time to remove diseased foliage, clear away rotting material and deal with damaged branches, but healthy stems, faded flowers and seedheads often have a purpose.’

‘One of the biggest mistakes people can make is reaching for the secateurs too quickly, as pruning at the wrong time can mean losing next year’s flowers and leaving plants more vulnerable to frost. By leaving the right plants untouched until spring, gardeners can protect them through winter and give themselves a better chance of enjoying a healthy, colourful garden next year.’

1. Hydrangeas

‘Hydrangeas are one of the most important plants to leave alone in autumn, especially mophead and lacecap varieties,’ says Pim. ‘These shrubs develop next year’s flowers on existing stems, so cutting them back in October can remove the buds needed for this.’

‘The faded flowerheads are also worth keeping in place as they can help protect the delicate buds beneath from frost. Instead, wait until mid-spring to prune hydrangeas, removing the old blooms and cutting back to the first healthy pair of buds.’

When it comes to what to do with hydrangeas in October, advice from the experts is to hold back on pruning, watering and feeding and instead focus on giving the roots some extra protection by adding a layer of mulch, like this RocketGro Magic Mulch, from £19.99, Thompson & Morgan, around the base of the plant.

Where to buy hydrangeas

• Hydrangea 'Limelight', from £21.99, Gardeners Dream
• Hydrangea macrophylla 'Pimpernel', £19.99, Gardening Express
• Hydrangea arborescens 'Incrediball', from £25.16, Sarah Raven

2. Spring-flowering shrubs

‘Spring-flowering shrubs, such as forsythia and lilac, should also be left unpruned in October,’ advises Pim. ‘Many of these plants form their flower buds on the previous season’s growth, meaning an autumn trim can sacrifice the very flowers gardeners are hoping to enjoy in spring.’

‘The best time to prune spring-flowering shrubs is immediately after flowering in late spring or early summer, giving the plant plenty of time to produce new growth and set buds for the following year.’

If there are dead or diseased stems that need attention, these can be carefully cut back, either to the ground or back to a healthy side branch, but general pruning should always be left until spring. Check if stems are healthy by scraping the outer bark with your thumbnail - if the layer underneath is dry, brown and brittle, the stem is dead; if it is green and moist, the stem is still alive.

Where to buy spring-flowering shrubs

• Forsythia × intermedia 'Lynwood Variety', from £12.50, Crocus
• Double Flower Lilac Collection, £29.27, J. Parker's
• Azalea Japonica Arabesk, £15.99, Gardening Express

3. Lavender

‘Although lavender benefits from regular pruning to maintain its shape and prevent it becoming woody, a hard autumn cut can expose older stems that are less able to regenerate, while fresh growth may be damaged by cold weather,’ advises Pim.

‘The main shaping cut when it comes to how to prune lavender, is best carried out after flowering in late summer, taking care not to cut deeply into bare growth. For what to do with lavender in October, simply remove any broken or diseased material and leave more substantial pruning until the warmer months.'

Where to buy lavender

• Lavender 'Hidcote', £9.99, Gardeners Dream
• English Lavender 'Munstead', £4, Roots Plants
• Lavandula × intermedia 'Grosso', from £17.99, RHS Plants

4. Ornamental grasses

‘The dry foliage and feathery seedheads of deciduous varieties of ornamental grasses can bring structure to a winter garden, catch the frost and provide food and shelter for wildlife,’ says Pim.

‘Cutting down ornamental grasses too early in October removes these benefits and can leave the plant’s crown more exposed to winter conditions. Leave the old growth standing until late winter or early spring, then cut it back before the new shoots emerge.’

Where to buy ornamental grasses

• Pennisetum × advena 'Rubrum', £7.99, Gardening Express
• Miscanthus Sinensis Kleine Silberspinne, £4.99, Primrose
• Stipa 'Pony Tails' Feather Deciduous Perennial, £17.99, Amazon

5. Evergreen shrubs

‘October is often a tempting time to tidy the garden, but it’s worth resisting the urge to prune certain plants,’ advises Charlotte McGrattan, Hardy Nursery Stock Buyer at Hillier Nurseries. ‘Evergreen shrubs such as viburnum tinus and viburnum ‘coppertop’ are best left alone at this time of year, while choisya ‘sundance’ and escallonia should also be left until after flowering if they need shaping.

‘Pruning evergreen shrubs like these now can remove developing buds and reduce the plant’s natural protection going into winter,’ adds Charlotte.

The best time to cut back evergreen shrubs is mid to late spring, after any risk of frost has passed and just before new spring growth begins.

Where to buy evergreen shrubs

• Viburnum tinus 'Eve Price', from £5.99, J. Parker's
• Viburnum odoratissimum 'Coppertop', from £14.99.
• Escallonia 'Trulli', £34.99, Dobies

6. Late-flowering perennials

‘Finally, it is worth leaving many late-flowering herbaceous perennials standing over winter rather than cutting every stem down to ground level,’ suggests Pim. ‘Plants with attractive seedheads, such as echinacea and rudbeckia, can provide food for birds over winter, while hollow stems and fallen foliage offer shelter for beneficial insects. Their dried flowerheads can also add height and texture to an otherwise bare winter border. Once new growth begins to appear in spring, gardeners can cut back the old stems carefully without damaging emerging shoots.’

Charlotte agrees: ‘Late-flowering herbaceous perennials, such as Japanese anemones, provide valuable structure and interest through the colder months. These can all be tidied at the appropriate time later in the season, rather than cutting them back in October.’

Where to buy late-flowering perennials

• Japanese Anemone 'Queen Charlotte', £9.99, You Garden
• Sedum Autumn Joy, £9.99, Primrose
• Rudbeckia 'All Sorts Mixed', from £7.99

So don't prune your hydrangeas in autumn, but give them plenty of TLC and you'll help set them up for healthy growth next spring.

As the weather cools and many plants finish flowering and fruiting for the year, it can be tempting to reach for the loppers and give your trees a trim. Can you prune trees in October, though?

Well, although you can prune several plants in October, we haven’t quite reached the dormant season yet. Typically, that’s the time between late autumn and late winter – and since it's still relatively early autumn, it’s too soon for most trees.

Still, that doesn’t mean you can’t prune any trees in October – you’ll just need to be more careful about the ones you do cut this month.

Deciduous trees might be shedding their leaves this month, but that doesn’t mean they’re ready for their annual prune. The best time to prune apple trees, for example, is during the winter – and striking too early could cause them unnecessary stress.

‘Timing really matters when it comes to pruning,’ says Gareth Mitchell, gardening expert and founder of Tree2MyDoor. ‘If you cut trees back at the wrong time of year, you risk excessive sap loss or open the tree up to the risk of disease.

‘For most trees, a light prune is all that’s needed at this time of the year. It’s just enough to keep the natural shape and remove any dead or diseased wood to keep your plant healthy over winter.’

So, which trees can you give a light prune in October?

‘October is a sensible time to check in on Japanese maples and other acers to look for any dead, damaged or crossing branches before dormancy sets in,’ says Gareth.

Although it isn’t the best time of year to prune acers, you can focus on the three Ds (dead, damaged or diseased branches) this month. Gareth says acers have a naturally attractive shape, though, so they don’t need much pruning anyway.

If you do decide to give them a light trim, you’ll need a pair of loppers like these Spear & Jackson Razorsharp Active Bypass Loppers from Amazon for thicker branches.

Gareth also mentioned that birch trees benefit from a check-over at this time of the year.

‘Birch trees are at risk of sap loss when heavily pruned in late winter and early spring, when sap flow is at its peak, which makes October a much safer time to remove small, dead or damaged branches,’ Gareth explains. ‘Branches that are crowded and rub together can be an entry point for insects and disease, so it’s best to remove them.’

For smaller branches, you can use a pair of anvil or ratchet secateurs like the Wilkinson Sword Comfort Ratcher Pruner from Amazon (they’re among the best secateurs I’ve tried).

There’s one more exception for October tree pruning: freshly planted trees.

‘Newly planted trees may also need minor corrective pruning to remove broken growth and balance out their shape,’ says Gareth.

Tree pruning kit

So, it’s best to avoid pruning the majority of trees in October, since it’s still too early – but you can give newly planted trees, birches and acers a light tidy if you really need to.

Is your garden ready to support birds this winter? No? Don’t worry, it’s not too late to plant bird-feeding plants in October - in fact, these are the five you should plant now to help our feathered friends survive winter.

If you’re someone who enjoys the sight of birds in your garden, then it’s important to know how to support birds in October and the colder months, too. One of the most important things you can do is ensure a steady supply of food when supplies are scarce, and many wildlife experts recommend planting bird-friendly plants to do so.

Wildlife experts have revealed five bird-friendly plants that you can plant in October to help birds survive winter. This is what you need to know.

1. Holly

Holly is famous for its festive foliage and cheerful red berries. It’s one of the best compact trees to attract birds to your garden and will keep them fed through winter.

‘Holly is a great choice for a bird-friendly garden, offering both food and shelter. Its dense, evergreen foliage gives birds somewhere protected to roost during the colder months, while its berries provide a winter food source for birds such as thrushes, robins and pigeons,’ says Amber Tunney, plant buyer at Cherry Lane Garden Centres.

Where to buy holly

• Pack of three lovely Holly Plants, £29.99, Gardening Express
• Lex aquifolium 'Argentea Marginata', £38.99, Crocus
• Holly 'Alaska', from £3.99, Thompson & Morgan

2. Rowan

Rowan, ‘Brilliant clusters of red berries that feed fieldfares, redwings, and blackbirds through early winter,’ says Thomas Cave Saunders, Amie Wheeldon and Jon Pilling, designers of Lifted By Birds Garden, created by Greenfingers for James Hopkins Hospice in Gloucester.

Rowan is also one of the best trees to plant for autumn colour, meaning that not only will its pretty berries feed wildlife over the colder months, but they will add some much-needed colour when the rest of the garden is bare and brown.

Where to buy rowan

• Rowan (Mature Tree), £134.99, Dobies
• Sorbus aucuparia 'Aspleniifolia', £34.99, Crocus
• Vilmorin's Rowan Tree, £55, Roots Plants

3. Hawthorn

If you’re considering the best hedging material for your garden, hawthorn is one of the most wildlife-friendly options you can consider.

‘Hawthorn is a great option if you’re planting a hedge with wildlife in mind. Its dense, thorny growth provides sheltered places for birds to rest and take cover, making it a useful addition to a garden over the winter months,’ says Amber.

Where to buy hawthorn

• Direct Plants 12x 3-4ft Large Quickthorn Hawthorn Hedging Trees in 2/3 Litre Pots, £94.99, B&Q
• Native Hedging Collection, £37.99, Thompson & Morgan
• Hawthorn (Hedging), from 99p, Thompson & Morgan

4. Crab apple

Native to the UK, crab apple is one of the easiest fruit trees you can grow in this country, and these ‘small fruits persist into winter, providing reliable food for thrushes and winter migrants,’ explains Thomas, Amie and Jon.

Crab apple is also one of the bird-feeding plants Sarah Raven swears by because their fruits last for so long - especially crab apple ‘Red Sentinel’. You can expect to see beautiful blossoms in the spring, too.

Where to buy crab apple

• Crab Apple 'Red Sentinel', £24.99, Thompson & Morgan
• Crab Apple 'Evereste', £22.99, Thompson & Morgan
• Crab Apple Tree - Malus Golden Hornet - circa 5ft, £43.99, Gardening Express

5. Ivy

Whether you agree or disagree that ivy should be left on a house or wall, what is true is that birds use this climbing plant for shelter and food.

‘Ivy offers valuable shelter for birds, with its dense growth providing cover as temperatures drop. Mature ivy also produces fat-rich berries that ripen later than many other fruits, helping to provide food further into winter when other natural supplies may be running low,’ says Amber.

Where to buy ivy

• Hedera helix - English ivy or common ivy, £5.99, Crocus
• Hedera Helix White Wonder English Ivy Or Common Ivy 8.5cm Pot Climbing Plants, £10.99, B&Q
• Boston Ivy, £6.99, J. Parkers

During winter, it's hard for birds to find food and shelter. But these plants provide both, turning your garden into a safe haven for birds.

When we think of growing our own vegetables, it's easy to picture spring seed-sowing and summer harvests, with autumn marking the end of the fun. But Monty Don is giving us a timely reminder that there's still plenty to grow once the leaves start turning and the evenings draw in.

The Gardeners' World presenter shared a very enviable photo of his raised beds via Instagram, all of which are seemingly bursting with cauliflowers, brassicas, and other leafy green goodies (hey, it's Monty Don; don't expect the man to do things by halves!).

It's one heck of a reminder of how this quieter time of year can be an incredibly productive one for gardeners. And, with his beds still providing plenty of inspiration, it's a good reminder that growing your own vegetables doesn't have to stop when summer does.

Grow your own, the Monty Don way

There are already lots of things to do and plant in the garden in October, whether that's planting up your winter flowers, sussing out the best vegetables to sow in October, overwintering dahlias, trying out Monty Don's autumn leaves hack, or simply enjoying the lovely autumn sunshine that feels all the more precious when you know winter is on its way.

Still, if ever anyone was going to raise the bar and then some, it's Monty.

Check it out:

Honestly, it's the veg garden of our dreams (and well worth rushing out to buy one of these stylish raised beds from Crocus to recreate for yourself). And there's a practical bonus to following in Monty Don's footsteps, too; with food shopping feeling increasingly expensive, growing even a handful of your own vegetables, salad leaves or herbs can help make your garden work a little harder for you.

You won't necessarily replace your weekly shop, but a few home-grown ingredients can make a welcome difference. And if Monty's raised beds have left you feeling inspired, the good news is that you haven't missed your chance to get growing.

'October is a great time to keep growing your own, rather than packing everything away until spring. You can still sow peas, salad leaves and broad beans, while garlic and onions are excellent choices to get started now,' says Christopher O'Donoghue, director of Gardens Revived.

'It's also worth making space for vegetables such as kale and cauliflower, which can keep your kitchen supplied with home-grown produce as the weather cools,' he adds. 'And don't forget herbs, which are always useful to have close at hand.'

Christopher also recommends looking beyond vegetables when planning your autumn planting. 'Now is a particularly good time to plant bare-root fruit trees and bushes, which is good news if you've been dreaming of picking your own apples and pears,' he says.

'Blackberries and gooseberries are worth considering, too. It's a lovely way to invest in your garden now and look forward to harvests in the years to come.'

Shop fruit and vegetables to grow in October

If you already have raised beds, October is also a good time to give them a little attention before winter arrives. And if you've been thinking about making some, Monty Don suggests that now is an ideal opportunity to get started.

In a post on his blog, he recommends adding around an inch of garden compost to raised beds as they become clear, leaving the worms to work it into the soil over winter. This helps prepare the beds for sowing and planting when spring returns. And if you only have time to plant one thing? 'Sow ‘Aquadulce’ broad bean seeds outside for an early harvest next May or June,' he says.

It's all easy enough advice, right? So, before the colder, darker days take hold, take a leaf out of Monty's book. Whether you sow a few salad leaves, plant garlic or start planning a fruit tree for the garden, there's still time to enjoy the pleasure of growing your own – and something rather lovely about knowing that today's little jobs could turn into next year's harvest.

One of the most important things you can do for birds in winter is to ensure they have access to clean, fresh water for bathing, drinking and playing. And if your bird bath keeps freezing over? Well, wildlife experts say you could invest in a heated bird bath.

While it may sound a little excessive, if you’re practising good bird bath winter care, then you will be looking for ways to prevent it from freezing. While there are hacks such as placing a ping-pong ball in the water, a heated bird bath will do all the hard work for you.

If you attract birds to your garden, you might be wondering if this is a worthy investment or not. I spoke to wildlife experts to find out.

What is a heated bird bath?

It’s easy to assume that birds only seek fresh water when it’s really hot. But when the mercury plummets and our gardens become icy, causing any water source to freeze over, birds suddenly don’t have access. This is why it is a huge bird bath mistake to allow your bath to freeze over in winter.

‘A heated birdbath has a low-wattage heating element built into the base, usually controlled by a thermostat where the heating only comes on when the temperature drops close to freezing to save energy,’ explains James Ewens, bird specialist at Green Feathers.

‘They’re super, really - designed to simply keep the water ice-free rather than warm. You can also buy a separate birdbath de-icer, a small heater that sits in or under an existing bath with the same idea, but I prefer the ease of a built-in one.

‘Solar is also an option, but as we know the light supply in UK autumn/winter is hardly something to shout about, so I prefer a mains supply with a weatherproof outdoor, protected socket.’

You should also bear in mind that many heated bird baths available to shop online, particularly on Amazon, are designed for American wall outlets, rather than British. So it’s important to check that it is compatible with the UK’s 240V standard.

Should you invest in a heated bird bath?

If you want to support birds during winter, particularly if you live in an area that gets a lot of ice and frost, a heated bird bath is a worthy investment. In really icy conditions, it is harder for birds to find fresh water than it is to find food, making keeping your bird bath ice-free all the more important.

‘They're also low-effort, as once set up, a thermostatically controlled model does the work for you, and you just need to keep it clean and topped up. Many reviewers report their heated baths lasting a decade or more, so it's a one-off purchase that delivers years of value,’ says Victoria Parkinson, Garden Expert at Arctic Cabins.

‘And they bring birds to your garden - a reliable winter water source is a powerful draw. You'll often find birds queuing up for access during cold snaps, and watching them come and go is one of the simple pleasures of a winter garden.

‘The main downsides are the need for an outdoor power source and the upfront cost, typically around £40-£70. And safety is paramount, so always use an outdoor-rated extension cord, keep plugs dry, and ensure your outlet is RCD-protected.’

How else can you stop a bird bath from freezing over?

If you already have a bird bath (and feel it doesn’t need replacing), or don’t have the facilities for outdoor electricals, there are a few tricks you can try to stop your bird bath from freezing over. This requires a little more effort than a heated bird bath, but are reliable and affordable methods.

‘The floating ball method, let’s call it. Simple, free if you already have a ping-pong or tennis ball, and easy to set up. Frosts tend to be short-lived in some UK counties, so it’s not always essential. Some cheaper alternatives are just as effective, like the ping-pong ball method where there’s a gentle surface agitation that slows or prevents complete freezing,’ says James.

‘You can also crack any ice and top it up with warm water from the kettle (not boiling water) to melt the ice and warm the temperature above freezing level. This is a little arduous, though, and time-consuming.

‘Also consider the placement of the bird bath. Some of us are lucky enough to have a little sunny nook in our garden as we head into autumn/winter, so keep your bird bath in sunny, sheltered spots if you have that luxury.’

However you choose to do it, preventing your bird bath from freezing over is really important for the welfare of the birds that visit your garden this winter.

When it comes to hydrangeas, what’s not to love? With their blousy blooms, vibrant colours and long flowering period, these easy-care shrubs make a fabulous addition to any garden. And even with this year’s long, hot summer, my hydrangeas survived the heat and are still bringing some autumnal colour to my garden even now. But as the blooms start to fade, the question of what to do with hydrangeas in October arises, and I’m never quite sure whether I should be cutting back or leaving them alone when it comes to autumn hydrangea care…a question I put to the gardening experts.

‘With hydrangeas putting on their final display of the year, October is the ideal time to start preparing them for the colder months ahead,’ says Shelley Davis, plant expert at Flying Flowers. ‘But knowing what to cut back, what to leave alone, and how best to protect the plant can make all the difference when growing hydrangeas.’

Find out exactly what you should be doing to get your hydrangeas prepped for winter with our expert-approved tips below.

1. Don’t rush to prune hydrangeas in autumn

‘It might feel like the time to get the pruning shears out, but it’s worth holding off before cutting everything back,’ advises Shelley. ‘If your plant has finished flowering, you might be tempted to tidy it up straight away, but it's a classic autumn hydrangea mistake - those faded flower heads can actually provide crucial protection from winter frost, and you could accidentally snip off next year’s developing buds.’

‘Cutting back stems now can also encourage tender new growth when the plant should be preparing for winter, and it may not have enough time to harden off before the cold weather arrives. Instead, leave the old flower heads in place - you can always do a final tidy-up in late winter or early spring, depending on the type of hydrangea you have,’ adds Shelley.

2. Treat different types of hydrangea accordingly

‘One of the biggest mistakes people can make in autumn is pruning hydrangeas too enthusiastically,’ says Pim Dickson, Senior Horticulturist at Fothergills. ‘The right approach depends on the type of hydrangea you have, because different varieties flower on different growth.’

‘Traditional mophead and lacecap hydrangeas, particularly hydrangea macrophylla, develop next year’s flower buds on stems produced in the previous growing season. Cutting these stems back in October can remove those buds and leave you with fewer flowers next summer. It is generally best to leave the main stems intact and retain the faded flowerheads over winter, removing them in spring once the risk of severe frost has passed,’ advises Pim.

‘When it comes to how to prune hydrangeas, such as panicle varieties like hydrangea paniculata, then these are different because they flower on new growth. These can be pruned in spring, when you can shape the plant and encourage strong new shoots. In October, resist the temptation to cut them back hard.’

‘As a general rule, remove dead, diseased or damaged stems when necessary with secateurs, but save substantial pruning for the appropriate time of year,’ adds Pim.

3. Assess plants and plan next year’s pruning

‘October is also a good time to assess established plants and, if necessary, plan how you will prune them next year,’ advises Charlotte McGrattan, Hardy Nursery Stock Buyer at Hillier Nurseries. ‘Pruning can influence both the size of the plant and its flowers: hard pruning produces vigorous growth with fewer, larger flowerheads; moderate pruning gives intermediate growth and flower size; while light pruning, removing only the previous year’s flowerheads, encourages earlier flowering with more numerous, smaller blooms.’

‘For now, the best approach is generally to leave the plant’s faded flowerheads in place and leave cutting back until spring, which will allow the hydrangea to provide some winter interest while protecting its new growth from the colder weather,’ adds Charlotte.

Shop these pruning essentials

4. Ease-off on watering and feeding

‘As the autumn weather cools, hydrangeas naturally start to slow down, so there’s no need to treat them as though they’re still in their peak growing season,’ advises Shelley.

‘Keep an eye on the soil rather than sticking to a set watering routine. If there’s a particularly dry spell in October, give your hydrangeas a good drink, but avoid the watering mistake of leaving them sitting in soggy soil. The same goes for feeding. There’s little benefit in encouraging fresh growth just before winter, so hold off on regular fertilising and pick this back up in spring when the plant starts putting on new growth again.’

5. Give the soil a layer of mulch

‘One of the simplest things you can do for hydrangeas at this time of year is to give the soil around its roots some extra protection,’ suggests Shelley. ‘A good layer of organic mulch, such as bark, compost, or leaf mould, can help the plant cope with changing temperatures.’

‘Mulching is a quick and easy job that can make such a difference during winter months, helping the soil hold onto moisture and keeping the roots more insulated as the ground starts to freeze. Make sure to spread the mulch around the base of the plant, but avoid piling it directly against the stems. Leaving a small gap around the base helps prevent the area from becoming excessively damp,’ adds Shelley.

‘Mulching is one of the most useful jobs you can do for hydrangeas in October,’ agrees Pim. ‘Applying a layer of organic matter, such as well-rotted garden compost, around the base helps the soil retain moisture, improves soil structure over time and provides some insulation for the roots as temperatures drop.’

‘Before mulching, remove any persistent weeds and water the soil if it is particularly dry. Spread a layer around the root area, ideally a few centimetres deep, but leave a small gap around the main stems rather than piling material against the crown. This helps reduce the risk of excess moisture encouraging rot.’

Shop for mulch

6. Give potted hydrangeas some winter protection

‘Hydrangeas planted in the ground are generally well protected by the surrounding soil, but hydrangeas growing in pots or containers are much more exposed to cold temperatures, particularly around their roots,’ says Shelley.

‘Think about where your pots or containers are sitting as we head into winter. Moving them to a sheltered spot close to the house can help protect hydrangeas from cold winds and the worst of the weather, while still giving them enough light. It’s also worth checking that the pot has good drainage, as cold, waterlogged compost can cause just as many problems as dry soil.’

‘Container-grown hydrangeas need a little more attention because their roots are more exposed to cold than those growing in the ground,’ says Pim. ‘Move pots to a sheltered spot, such as close to a house wall, and consider insulating the container itself, but ensuring excess water can drain away.’

‘Resist the urge to repot hydrangeas simply because autumn has arrived,’ says Pim. ‘If the plant is healthy, it is generally better to minimise root disturbance and concentrate on keeping it protected until conditions improve in spring.’

‘And with increased rainfall in October, it’s easy to forget watering hydrangeas in containers, but be sure to check them regularly and prevent them drying out at this crucial time of year,’ adds Pim.

So don't prune your hydrangeas in autumn, but give them plenty of TLC and you'll help set them up for healthy growth next spring.

B&Q’s seed advent calendar has returned for 2026, and after using the 2025 version, I can safely say that this one is well worth the buy.

If you’re looking for Christmas gifts for gardeners (or a treat for yourself!), the Verve Shelter Seed Advent Calendar is just £15 at B&Q. It’s a steal, given everything that’s inside: a huge range of flower, herb and vegetable seeds, and a handy little growing kit behind the 25th door. I had great fun opening the 2025 version, and I’m just as excited about this year’s now that I’ve got my hands on it.

It really is ideal for budding gardeners – and a fun novelty for the more experienced green thumbs.

B&Q’s Verve Shelter Seed Advent Calendar includes everything you need to start a small vegetable garden: a mixture of seed sachets, from peas to pumpkins, and even herbs like basil and parsley for indoor and outdoor growing.

There’s also a healthy selection of flower seeds like sunflowers and sweet peas, so you can kit your 2027 garden out with blooms you’ve grown from scratch. My two favourite companion-planting flowers are in there, too: marigolds and nasturtiums, which keep pests at bay. In fact, Ideal Home’s Editor, Rebecca Knight, had great success with the nasturtium seeds from the 2025 Verve Seed Advent Calendar (she couldn’t believe how many blooms appeared!).

If you’re wondering where to grow all of those seeds, you don’t need to order extra equipment to get them started. Behind the 25th door is a grow house, soil tablets and even plant tags. The plastic tray grow house is no heated propagator, of course, but it’s a brilliant starting point for the seeds inside the calendar.

The 2026 Verve Seed Advent Calendar is even prettier than the 2025 version, featuring Father Christmas himself inside a greenhouse filled with seedlings, poinsettias and Christmas trees. There’s also a very sweet dog on this year’s calendar, replacing last year’s robin.

The Verve Shelter Seed Advent Calendar is currently only available to click and collect, and there’s limited stock - B&Q says ‘when it’s gone, it’s gone’ – so it’s worth grabbing one before it sells out like it did last year!

More gardening advent calendars

For just £15, B&Q’s Verve Shelter Seed Advent Calendar is the perfect treat for young, beginner and seasoned gardeners alike. It’s a great way to try growing lots of different vegetables, herbs and flowers at once!

Depending on your garden layout, privacy can be of the utmost importance, especially if you are overlooked. And if you've recently moved, speedy-growing shrubs are what you're looking for most of all.

Autumn is the best time to invest in these shrubs and get them in the ground. Lance Russell, horticultural expert at Thompson & Morgan, explains why: 'The soil is still holding warmth from summer, while cooler temperatures and autumn rainfall help newly planted shrubs establish without the stress of summer heat.'

So which are the best varieties to choose from? We ask our gardening experts which fast-growing privacy shrubs they recommend.

1. Cherry laurel

Cherry laurel is a dense, evergreen woody shrub that can grow from 13-26 feet tall rather quickly, so it can work as a great screening idea! It has glossy, dark green leaves, and in the spring you'll see spikes of small white flowers, and in winter dark red cherry-like berries.

'This fast-growing shrub can tolerate most conditions,' says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director at LBS Horticulture. 'However, due to its potentially invasive nature, it should not be planted close to woodland or other natural areas where it could spread.'

Richard advises digging a hole that is slightly larger than the rootball of the plant and then placing it in the hole so that the rootball is level with the surrounding soil. 'Once the plant has established, it should be relatively low maintenance,' he adds 'When it is establishing, it should be watered regularly during dry spells, especially during summer. The plant should be mulched annually with an organic mulch to help it retain moisture, suppress weeds and provide nutrients.'

You can buy your cherry laurel from GardeningExpress for £89.99 for a 15-litre container, standing at around 7-8 feet high.

2. Privet

'Privet is another reliable option if you’re happy to keep your hedge clipped,' suggests Lance.

Its dense green leaves make it ideal as a privacy hedge and for property borders. 'Privet will grow almost anywhere, and can cope in a variety of conditions,' says Richard. 'For the best results, grow privet in moist, well-draining soil and keep plants well watered for the first two years. Plants should be placed in the soil at the same depth that they were in their pots, or match the soil mark on bare-rooted plants.

Privet does need maintenance at least two or three times a year, or it starts to look straggly.

Amazon are selling 25 green privet hedging evergreen plants for £64.95; they come between 25 - 40cm in height.

3. Viburnum tinus

Viburnum tinus is an evergreen shrub with dark, glossy leaves. What's nice about this variety is that it produces clusters of small, creamy white fragrant flowers that are pink when in bud.

'It grows quickly, stays evergreen, and the flowering from late autumn into spring in mild winters gives privacy and seasonal interest,' says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

You can buy your viburnum tinus from Thompson & Morgan; two 9cm potted plants will currently cost £7.98.

4. Photinia or Red Robin

'Photinia × fraseri ‘Red Robin’ is another fast choice, offering year‑round foliage plus bright red new growth in spring, and it clips well into a neat hedge,' suggests Julian.

Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Harvst Automatic Watering, agrees, 'This variety should increase in height and spread by around 45cm every year and, if left unpruned, can reach between four metres in height and width. However, if you want to use photinia for hedging, ideally you would plant it between 30 to 60cm apart; the closer planted the more dense the hedge will form.

Pruning is key two to three times a year, according to Lucie: 'It will encourage more side branches and lower thickness; reduce this to trimming once or twice a year once it reaches its full height.'

If you're wanting to start a hedge, then YouGarden are selling 24 x 8cm pots for £59.76 presently. Its vigorous growth will give you privacy and year-round colour.

5. Escallonia

Also called Red Escallonia and Red Claws, the most popular variety is Escallonia rubra 'Macrantha', (pick the Macrantha variety from Dobies, from £12.99 for a 9cm potted plant), which produces deep pink flowers that pollinators love from June to October.

This is an evergreen shrub that has thick foliage consisting of glossy, dark green leaves. 'Best suited to southern areas of the UK where weather is milder, you can plant Escallonia rubra in early autumn so that its roots quickly establish in the soil which is still warm from the summer months,' advises Lucie.

Once it's established, it should only need a trim after its flowered, Lucie says, 'Trim so it is narrower at the top than bottom to help light reach the base so it remains healthy and green. Pruning at this time allows new flower buds to form, which will become the next year's blooms.'

Essential buys for planting your shrubs

These varieties will help transform an overlooked garden into a private retreat so you can enjoy your outdoor space without feeling like the neighbours are watching.

Mycorrhizal fungi are one of those gardening terms that get a lot of hype, but they're still a bit of an enigma to many gardeners. What actually are mycorrhizal fungi? And what do they do?

Well, I’ve spoken about the benefits of mycorrhizal fungi when planting roses before, but the majority of plants on our planet benefit from them, too. They're crucial to a healthy garden – and according to experts, they can more or less double a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi exist naturally in the earth’s soil, but there are ways to incorporate them into the ground before planting to give new plants a boost and help them settle into your garden.

But first: what are mycorrhizal fungi? I’ve broken them down with the experts and explored the key benefits for plants, shrubs and trees.

What is mycorrhizal fungi?

In a nutshell, mycorrhizal fungi are, well, a type of fungus, and they're a really important companion to plants. They're normally used when you’re planting a new shrub or tree to aid establishment – Empathy Rootgrow Mycorrhizal Fungi (available at Amazon), for example, is sprinkled into the planting hole before your plant enters the ground.

‘Mycorrhizal fungi live in a symbiotic relationship with plants, providing them with essential nutrients and aiding in their growth,’ says Envii. ‘In fact, 90% of all plant life depends on mycorrhizal fungi!

‘Mycorrhizal is the adjective used to describe the network of fungal filaments that mycorrhiza create with the soil. These microscopic threads net together to form a web called mycelium.’

Apparently, those nets can stretch for hundreds and hundreds of feet, reaching far and wide for water and nutrients. Envii also told me that the nets can connect with other plants to share nutrients (very sweet!).

‘Mycorrhizal fungi work with the plant roots to almost double the root system of the plant,’ adds Dave The Plantman in conjunction with Mims Pottery.

So, why should you use mycorrhizal in the garden?

Where to buy mycorrhizal fungi

What are the benefits of mycorrhizal fungi?

We’ve already mentioned that mycorrhizal fungi aid plant growth and establishment, but how exactly does that work?

‘Mycorrhizal fungi increase nutrient intake,’ adds Envii. ‘Using a vast network of tiny thread-like structures that can extend further into the soil than a plant’s roots, the fungi increase the absorption of nutrients such as phosphorus and nitrogen. By providing the plants with these essential nutrients, they can grow bigger and stronger.’

So, as well as keeping your plants hydrated, mycorrhizal fungi will give your plants all the goodness they need to thrive.

‘They also create some resilience in the plants against diseases and toxins,’ Envii adds.

As I mentioned before, gardeners often use mycorrhizal fungi when they’re planting roses and other shrubs.

‘Mycorrhizal fungi can support root development and improve plants’ access to water and nutrients, helping them establish more successfully,’ explains Andrew Jackson, founder of New Build Manifesto.

Envii mentioned that mycorrhizal fungi exist naturally in the soil, but over time, chemicals and fertilisers can damage those systems. It's wise to use an organic mycorrhizal fungi like Envii Root Well, which is enriched with beneficial bacteria. It can be added to plants that are already in your garden, too, to improve their root system.

If you want bigger, stronger plants, don't skip mycorrhizal fungi – especially if you're adding a new shrub or tree to your garden.

Supermodel Jerry Hall’s rose garden is one of the best we’ve seen over at Ideal Home. And particularly impressive are her huge archways of climbing roses - and if you want a similar look, October is the perfect time to start training your climbing roses.

If you’ve been wondering what to do with roses in October, one of the jobs you should be doing is training climbers and ramblers. While this provides extra support, aids growth, and produces more blooms, Gerry’s example shows you can also train your roses to create a striking, structural display in your garden.

Jerry’s beautiful display appeared on her Instagram back in 2020 and is still a brilliant example today. While it may look aspirational, garden experts have spilt the beans on how we can do it too. This is what they said.

Most gardeners will have planted roses or planted climbing roses. Their fragrant blooms, which come in an array of pretty colourways, make them a striking and often romantic choice for any garden. From Jerry’s Instagram, you can see she loves a pastel pink rose, be that in her beds or in a romantic archway. And given the abundance of her flower garden, experts agree she is a good example to follow.

‘Jerry Hall’s rose archway is a beautiful example of how climbing roses can transform a garden. What makes it particularly impressive is the abundance of flowers and the way the roses have been trained to create a wonderfully romantic, almost tunnel-like effect. It feels established and natural, rather than overly manicured, which is part of its charm,’ says Francesca McEvoy, design expert at Crane Garden Buildings.

‘October is a wonderful time to start planning a rose archway like Jerry's. With growth beginning to slow, it's a good opportunity to assess established plants, secure any long, flexible stems against autumn winds and prepare the structure for new roses.

‘It's also the perfect time to choose your varieties and prepare the soil ahead of the bare-root planting season, which generally runs from November to March. For established climbing roses, I'd recommend leaving the main pruning until winter, while rambling roses are usually best pruned after flowering in late summer.’

How to get the look

‘For anyone hoping to recreate Jerry's look, I'd recommend choosing a strong, sturdy arch and selecting a vigorous climbing rose suited to the space. Varieties such as 'New Dawn', with its soft pink flowers, or 'The Generous Gardener', with its beautifully scented, pale pink blooms, are lovely choices for a romantic garden,’ recommends Francesca.

‘One of the most important tricks is to train the stems diagonally or as horizontally as possible around the structure, rather than allowing them to grow straight upwards. This encourages flowering shoots along the length of the stems, helping to create that lovely, full effect rather than a few flowers at the very top.’

Bear in mind that to achieve a display such as Jerry’s requires an abundance of patience and will. Of course, you also need the right tools and techniques, but don’t expect results overnight.

‘Having several rose arches like this is impressive, as each takes several years to mature and fully cover an arch. They act as a visual focal point in the garden and fill the surrounding area with a strong scent. Even though roses are not evergreen, the visible frame left behind in the colder months is just as striking,’ comments Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture.

‘October is a good time to install the frame and plant the roses needed to make a rose archway. Ensure that the rose arch support is firmly in place first, and anchor it deeply into the ground so that it can handle the weight of mature plants and winds.

‘As the soil is still warm and retaining autumn moisture, plant the container-grown roses that will eventually form the arch now, as their roots will have time to settle before winter. The rose should be slightly positioned away from the arch, and the main stems should be angled towards the support structure. Tie any flexible shoots loosely to the arch frame after planting.’

What you need

Jerry's garden is so beautiful, and while a rose garden like this requires time and effort, it is not impossible. Would you be willing to give it a try?

Looking for evergreen shrubs to plant in October? There's a surprisingly long list to choose from – so I've rounded up a few expert-approved picks.

Autumn is the perfect time to learn how to plant shrubs, and if you choose varieties that keep their foliage all winter (and, sometimes, produce fruits and flowers while they're at it), you'll keep your garden looking sprightly while everything else is asleep.

What you'll need

1. Skimmia

As far as evergreen shrubs go, Skimmia really does have it all: year-round glossy foliage, berries for the birds, and beautiful spring flowers.

‘Skimmia ‘Rubella’ has beautiful evergreen foliage and bright red buds,’ says Dave The Plantman in conjunction with Mims Pottery.

What’s interesting, though, is that there are male and female varieties - and if you want your shrub to produce berries, you’ll need to plant both.

‘Only female varieties have berries,’ explains Dave. ‘Female varieties have amazing foliage and bright red berries.’

Skimmia japonica 'Obsession', which you can order from Gardening Express, will produce berries if a male plant like Skimmia japonica 'Rubella' (available at Crocus) is nearby.

2. Holly

Holly is another cold-weather classic, and it’s one of the best evergreen shrubs you can plant in October for wildlife and your garden's winter aesthetic.

‘Holly is a valuable evergreen, providing year-round shelter for wildlife as well as berries for birds,’ says Morris Hankinson, managing director of Hopes Grove Nurseries. ‘The prickly leaves help with security and privacy, plus a few stems during the autumn and winter can decorate a home.’

You can order common holly in a two-litre container from Gardening Express.

3. Lemon cypress

Though lemon cypress is technically a tree, many gardeners grow it as a compact shrub – and if you’re looking for fragrant shrubs to plant in October, it’s a real winner.

‘Cupressus 'Goldcrest' has bright golden foliage and a lovely lemon scent,’ says Dave The Plantman. ‘Its conical shape makes a perfect centrepiece.’

You can either plant lemon cypress in pots or in the garden border, ideally in a spot that receives full sun. YouGarden sells small Cupressus 'Goldcrest' plants from just £6.99.

4. Checkerberry

Ever heard of the checkerberry? Its compact size makes it the perfect border plant, and it'll provide year-round greenery and structure. According to Dave, it's another shining example of evergreen shrubs to plant this October.

‘Gaultheria procumbens has lovely evergreen foliage and bright red berries,’ says Dave The Plantman.

Small checkerberry plants are available to order from Dobies for October planting.

5. Viburnum

Viburnum tinus has a firm place on our list of low-maintenance evergreen shrubs for privacy, but it's a brilliant winter plant, too. The evergreen foliage varies by variety, and there are a few architectural types that pack a real punch all year round.

'Viburnum rhytidophyllum has dramatic large leaves, with a striking rough texture, followed by creamy-white flowers in the spring,' says Topher, head gardener at Syon Park.

You can order a huge 25-litre Viburnum rhytidophyllum 'Holland' plant from Thompson & Morgan.

Which evergreen shrubs will you be planting this October?

While much of the garden is dying back and colours fading, there are still plenty of ways you can add interest outdoors this month and planting fragrant shrubs is a fabulous way to do it.

In early autumn, the soil is still warm from summer, the air temperature cooler and rainfall more plentiful, which gives roots time to establish before winter arrives. So planting fragrant shrubs in October is the ideal time, allowing plants to fully settle in and establish before bursting into growth come springtime.

‘Cool autumn evenings are made all the warmer with a burst of rich perfume, and scented shrubs planted throughout your garden or tucked near windows and doors will wrap your outdoor space in an inviting aroma you can enjoy throughout the season,’ says Shelley Davis, plant expert at Flying Flowers. ‘Beyond their seasonal fragrance, hardy plants add rich texture and vibrant year-round structure to your landscaping, ensuring your garden remains deeply inviting even as the weather cools.’

1. Daphne ‘Eternal Fragrance’

‘Living up to its name, Daphne ‘Eternal Fragrance’ is a compact, semi-evergreen hybrid which adds a long-lasting scent to any garden setting,’ says Shelley. ‘Planting now allows the white and pink blooms to settle before winter, laying the groundwork for an exceptionally long season of honey-and vanilla-scented blooms and a fragrance-filled garden.'

‘What makes this variety truly special is its rare flowering power. While most daphnes bloom only once in spring, ‘Eternal Fragrance’ produces nonstop flushes of blossoms from late spring through to autumn. Thanks to its slow, compact growth, this perennial thrives either nestled directly into garden borders or planted long-term in large containers, reliably returning with its sweet perfume year after year.’

Where to buy Daphne 'Eternal Fragrance':

• J. Parker's: Buy a pair of 15cm pot grown Daphne 'Eternal Fragrance', £39.98 to give your garden colour and fragrance.
• Crocus: This Daphne × transatlantica Eternal Fragrance comes in a range of sizes, from £27.99.

2. Elaeagnus × ebbingei

‘October is an ideal month to get shrubs established before winter, and choosing fragrant varieties means your garden can continue to offer something to enjoy long after the main summer flowering season has finished,’ says Charlotte McGrattan, Hardy Nursery Stock Buyer at Hillier Nurseries.

‘Elaeagnus is a fantastic choice for autumn planting, combining evergreen foliage with small, creamy-white flowers that have a surprisingly strong fragrance. Its evergreen foliage also provides useful structure and interest throughout the year.’

Where to buy Elaeagnus × ebbingei:

• Dobies: Buy this quick-growing Elaeagnus ebbingei (Hedging) variety, from £32.99.
• Gardening Express: Suitable for pots or as hedging, try this Elaeagnus ebbingei compacta, from £16.95.

3. Rose 'Sweet Dream'

‘For gardeners, the key is to think beyond simply choosing a plant that smells good,’ says Pim Dickson, Senior Horticulturist at Fothergills. ‘Consider when it produces its fragrance, where you'll experience it most often and whether its eventual size suits the space.’

‘Rose 'Sweet Dream' is an excellent choice for gardeners who want fragrance but don't have the space for a traditional large shrub rose,’ says Pim. ‘Reaching only around 50cm in height and spread, it can bring scented planting into small garden borders, patios and containers. Its soft peach-pink, double blooms provide delicate fragrance, and it is also an RHS Award of Garden Merit variety, which reassures gardeners about its performance.’

‘October is a great time to get this rose established because it is supplied as a bare-root plant and can be planted between October and March. When planting, loosen the surrounding soil as this gives the new roots an easier route outwards as they establish. Position the rose in full sun or partial shade, water it thoroughly after planting and keep an eye on moisture levels during any particularly dry periods.’

‘For a patio or container-grown rose, drainage is important over winter. Make sure the container has adequate drainage holes and avoid allowing the pot to sit permanently in water. Once established, deadheading spent flowers can help keep a tidy appearance and encourage the plant to keep producing its blooms.’

Where to buy Rose 'Sweet Dream':

• Fothergills: Perfect for smaller gardens, try this Rose Sweet Dream Patio variety, from £16.95.
• Primrose: Or enjoy the peachy, fragrant blooms of this Rosa Sweet Dream, £21.59.

4. Mahonia × media ‘Charity’

‘October is a great time to think beyond summer colour and introduce winter-flowering shrubs that will bring scent and interest to the garden through the cooler months,’ says Charlotte.

‘Mahonia ‘Charity’ brings plenty of winter interest, with bold evergreen foliage and striking upright spikes of yellow flowers. The flowers are fragrant and appear from late autumn into winter, providing both scent and colour when the garden can otherwise feel rather bare. Its architectural shape also makes it a useful evergreen shrub for adding structure,’ adds Charlotte.

‘When choosing fragrant plants, consider positioning them close to paths, doorways or seating areas, where their perfume can be appreciated as you pass.'

Where to buy Mahonia × media ‘Charity’:

• Gardeners Dream: Zingy yellow blooms and highly scented, try this Mahonia 'Charity', from £9.90.
• Thompson & Morgan: Or go for this Mahonia x media 'Charity' hardy shrub, from £12.99.

5. Harlequin Glorybower

‘Planting Harlequin Glorybower in October is a brilliant choice, especially since this shrub has a hidden trick to keep its scent going into the cooler months,’ says Shelley.

‘While the sweet, jasmine-like floral fragrance fades as the final autumn blossoms fall, the plant isn’t quite finished smelling. Right up until the foliage drops for winter, simply brushing against or crushing one of its broad green leaves releases a surprisingly warm peanut butter aroma, giving you a fun, nutty scent long after the flowers are gone.’

Where to buy Harlequin Glorybower:

• Thompson & Morgan: With pink blooms against a backdrop of dark leaves, try this Clerodendrum trichotomum Harlequin Glorybower, from £29.99.
• Dobies: Or pick this Clerodendrum trichotomum Harlequin Glorybower in a variety of sizes, from £29.99.

6. Viburnum ‘Dawn’

‘Renowned for its rich, clove-like fragrance, Viburnum ‘Dawn’ produces dense clusters of sweet-spiced flowers right through the colder months, filling the crisp outdoor air with notes of honey, vanilla, and almond,’ suggests Shelley. ‘This resilient shrub actually starts its flowering in October, with long-lasting displays as its buds transition from dark pink in late autumn to delicate candy-pink by spring.’

‘And as a fun bonus, the blossoms are virtually freeze-proof, so even if a sudden frost coats the open flowers in ice, they simply thaw out and keep right on blooming as if nothing happened.’

‘For fragrance through the colder months, Viburnum × bodnantense ‘Dawn’ is a real star,’ agrees Charlotte. ‘Its clusters of delicate pink flowers can appear from autumn and continue flowering through winter, often opening on bare stems.’

Where to buy Viburnum ‘Dawn’:

• J. Parker's: Enjoy colour and fragrance combined with this Viburnum bodnantense 'Dawn' Arrowwood, from £6.99.
• Suttons: Enjoy colour-filled borders with these Viburnum x bodnantense 'Dawn' Arrowwood, from £4.

7. Common Witch Hazel

‘Planting common Witch Hazel in October is like giving your autumn garden a burst of sunshine just as everything else begins to wind down,’ says Shelley. ‘Just as its golden fall foliage drops, clusters of bright yellow, ribbon-like blossoms appear, filling the crisp autumn air with a clean, refreshing scent of sweet citrus and warm, woody spice.’

‘The frost-hardy flowers also possess built-in “weather intelligence”, meaning that on freezing autumn nights, the spider-like petals curl up tight to protect themselves from frost, expanding again to release their fragrance as the sun warms them the following day.’

Where to buy Common Witch Hazel:

• Suttons: With zingy yellow blooms, try this Hamamelis x intermedia 'Pallida'Witch Hazel, from £16.99.
• Crocus: Or go for this bold orange-toned variety, Hamamelis × intermedia 'Jelena' witch hazel, from £59.99.

8. Lonicera fragrantissima (winter flowering honeysuckle)

‘As its name suggests, Lonicera fragrantissima (or winter-flowering honeysuckle) is prized for its fragrance,’ says Charlotte. ‘Its small, creamy-white flowers appear during the colder months and can fill the surrounding air with a sweet scent.’

‘Because cool autumn air doesn’t carry fragrance as far as summer heat, group your scented shrubs together in sheltered, sunny spots that protect the delicate blooms from harsh winds,’ advises Shelley. ‘And get the most from fragrant plants by placing them strategically near garden pathways, entryways, or patio seating areas where you’ll naturally catch their scent on crisp autumn walks.’

‘Finally, give them a generous soaking right after planting and add a thick layer of mulch. This retains essential soil warmth, allowing their roots to settle in happily while their perfume brightens up the cooling garden.’

Where to buy Lonicera fragrantissima:

• Thompson & Morgan: Perfect for the winter months, try this Lonicera fragrantissima Winter Honeysuckle hardy shrub, from £10.99.
• Amazon: Or enjoy the creamy blooms and intense fragrance of this Lonicera fragrantissima, Winter Honeysuckle, £34.99.

So if you want to help your fragrant shrubs get established before the winter hits, then now is the perfect time to get planting.

Wondering how to plant shrubs the correct way? It isn’t as simple as digging a makeshift hole and popping it into your garden – but if you make a few tweaks to that technique, it’s pretty straightforward.

October is the ideal time to prune certain shrubs, but it’s also the perfect opportunity to plant new ones. The soil is still warm enough from the summer, it’s moister, and the roots have plenty of time to establish before spring.

I’ve thrown together a guide on planting new shrubs, with expert tips, to help you give your plant the best possible start this autumn.

What you'll need

1. Soak the roots first

There’s a lot of debate around whether or not you should soak spring bulbs before planting, and shrubs hold a huge question mark, too. According to experts, though, it’s wise to soak the shrub’s roots before you plant it in the garden.

‘Douse the shrub roots in water until completely soaked,’ advises Paul Parker from J. Parker’s. ‘This helps to minimise the stress on the plant.'

You’ll just need a big bucket, like this 26L Whitefurze Flexible Tub from Argos.

2. Prepare the soil

While the roots are soaking, you can start preparing the ground for your new shrub. This step comes just before you dig the planting hole – and it’s worth learning a few quick ways to remove weeds beforehand.

‘Prepare the ground thoroughly, removing perennial weeds and breaking up compacted soil,’ says Annelise Brilli, Thompson & Morgan’s horticultural expert. It's worth investing in a sturdy garden fork like the Spear & Jackson Traditional Stainless Steel Border Fork from Amazon to tackle larger clumps of soil.

When it comes to planting roses and other specific shrubs, experts often suggest enriching the planting hole (once you’ve dug it) with organic matter. According to Annelise, though, it could do a newly planted shrub more harm than good.

‘Avoid the traditional advice to add organic matter to the planting hole,’ she warns. ‘In heavy or poorly drained soil, it can create a sump that holds excess moisture around the roots. As the organic matter breaks down, the soil can also settle, causing the shrub to sink too deeply.’

3. Dig a hole

Once you’ve prepared the soil, you can start digging a hole for your shrub. Annelise told me that planting depth is key to a shrub’s long-term health and performance – too deep, and you’ll deprive the roots of oxygen, but too shallow, and the root ball is at greater risk of exposure and drying out.

‘This hole should be a bit deeper than the pot that the shrub comes in, and three times as wide,’ advises Paul. ‘Make sure you loosen the soil below and surrounding the hole so that the roots can fully establish themselves.’

A sturdy spade is a must for planting a new shrub. I rate Kent & Stowe’s garden tools, and I’ve got my eye on this top-rated Kent & Stowe Garden Life Stainless Digging Spade from B&Q.

4. Position the shrub

With the soil prepared and hole dug, you can carefully tip the plant from the pot it arrived in. Preserving the roots is key here – you’ll want to avoid disturbing or damaging them.

Once you’ve lowered your shrub into the hole, you’ll need to make sure it’s positioned properly.

‘The top of the root ball should sit level with the surrounding soil,’ says Annelise. ‘Place a cane across the hole to help you judge the depth.’

Once it’s in place, you can start to backfill the hole with soil.

‘Pat down until firm, but don’t damage the roots below,’ advises Paul. ‘Try to wedge the plant in by adding soil to fill any gaps – this will help to keep the plant steady as the roots establish.’

5. Water and mulch

Learning how to plant a shrub really is as simple as that, but you’ll need to follow it up with a couple of crucial steps to help it settle into your garden. First, you’ll need to give it plenty of water.

‘Give the shrub a thorough soaking to settle the soil around the roots, even if the ground is already damp,’ says Annelise.’

It’s also worth mulching around the shrub, using something like Strulch, which you can order from Amazon in a bundle – but don’t get too close to the shrub itself.

‘Apply mulch in a wide circle around the shrub to help conserve moisture and suppress weeds, but avoid ‘volcano mulching’,’ advises Annelise. ‘Piling mulch against the stems can trap moisture and encourage stem rot, so leave a clear gap of 10cm around the base of the shrub.’

From there, Annelise recommends watering deeply when the shrub needs it, rather than little and often, and keeping a closer eye on your shrub during dry spells (although as we’re heading towards winter, those are less likely to be a problem for the rest of the year).

‘Hot, dry springs can be particularly challenging, as shrubs put on fresh leaf growth that requires a steady supply of moisture before their root systems have had enough time to develop and support it,’ Annelise adds.

Knowing how to plant shrubs properly will make a world of difference to your plant's long-term health.

There are plenty of plants that benefit from pruning in October, but what can you do with the clippings?

After you’ve decided what to prune in October, it’s easy to assume that the leftover clippings are simply garden waste. But just like there are ways to reuse fallen leaves and reuse conkers in a garden during the autumn months, your clippings are no exception.

If you want a thriving, healthy garden for 2027, garden experts have revealed five uses for old clippings that will help your garden ideas flourish now and in the future.

1. Make leaf mould

When pruning shrubs in October, you’ll probably have a load of leaves within your clippings. The same can be said for pruning trees and hedges this month. So, instead of discarding your leaves, turn them into leaf mould for next year. Leaf mould, AKA gardeners' gold, is a brilliant (and free) soil conditioner.

‘You can use fallen or clipped leaves in your garden to make leaf mould,’ says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture.

'Gather the leaves from deciduous plants and stuff them into a black bin bag. Punch air and drainage holes in the bag, loosely tie the top and then leave the contents to rot for a year in a hidden area of your garden. Finished leaf mould should be dark, soft and crumbly, and can be used as garden mulch or mixed with compost when planting.'

2. Chop and drop onto your borders

If you want to feed your borders and beds over winter, the answer is literally between your pruning shears. Your clippings can help improve your soil’s structure in time for spring next year.

‘The ‘chop and drop’ method is a favourite of mine for herbaceous borders. Instead of carting away spent stems and foliage after cutting back perennials, simply chop them into smaller pieces with shears and drop them onto the soil surface,’ says Melissa Quinney, gardening expert at Cabin Master.

‘They'll break down naturally over winter, feeding the soil and providing a habitat for beneficial insects. It's the ultimate low-effort, no-waste approach, and it saves you a trip to the compost heap.’

3. Help wildlife

We’re huge advocates for wildlife gardens here at Ideal Home, and if you’re stuck for ideas on how to use your old clippings, they can have a few beneficial uses for garden wildlife.

‘Wildlife in your garden can use clippings for several things,’ begins Richard. ‘Insects can overwinter in grass piles or the hollow stems of trimmed branches. As the clippings break down, they attract decomposers like fungi and earthworms. These will, in turn, act as a food source for other animals.’

4. Add to your compost heap

If you’re not already making compost in your garden, take this as your sign to do so, as it is a perfect location to dispose of clippings, whilst benefiting your garden at the same time.

‘Most garden clippings (soft stems, spent flowers, vegetable peelings, and grass cuttings) can go straight into the compost bin, where they'll break down into a rich, dark compost that feeds your garden for free,’ says Melissa.

‘Just avoid adding perennial weeds, diseased material, or anything that's gone to seed, as these can cause problems later. Turning the heap occasionally and keeping it moist will speed up the process, and you'll have a steady supply of homemade compost ready to use next spring.’

5. Use for mulching

Last, but certainly not least, your garden clippings can be used to make mulch. The term mulching refers to the practice of laying organic matter around your plants. This can help regulate their temperature (especially helpful in winter), suppress weeds and improve the quality of your soil.

'Garden clippings can be used as a thin layer of mulch around the base of plants. Fresh, wet grass clippings should not be packed thickly over the crowns of plants, as the wet layer of grass can turn slimy, block air and cause plant stems to rot,’ says Richard.

What you need

While clippings may seem like waste, they're actually gold for your garden. And these five ways to reuse clippings in your garden will all help contribute to a healthier ecosystem.

I’m all about pretty trees, so this season, I thought I’d track down the best autumn-flowering trees you can plant in October.

Just like autumn-flowering shrubs, trees that produce blooms during the autumn ways can add much-needed colour and beauty to the garden. Some autumn-flowering trees are available to buy fully-grown, which means they’ll burst into bloom this autumn, while others can be planted in their bare-root form now for flowers over the coming years.

I asked the experts to share their favourite autumn-flowering trees to plant in October for beautiful cool-weather blooms.

What you'll need

1. Winter-flowering cherry

Cherry blossoms are up there with my all-time favourite trees, but not every variety flowers in spring. Winter-flowering cherries happen to be among the best autumn-flowering trees, too, and when I spoke to Annelise Brilli, Thompson & Morgan’s horticultural expert, she recommended Prunus x subhirtella 'Autumnalis Rosea'.

‘This elegant, spreading cherry brings welcome colour to the garden when other trees have finished flowering,’ Annelise says. ‘Semi-double, rosy-pink flowers emerge from dark pink buds during mild spells from late October through to March. The blooms open intermittently, creating an extended display that can brighten even the coldest months.’

You can buy a fully-grown (200-210cm) Prunus subhirtella ‘Autumnalis Rosea’ from Gardening Express, or start with a bare-root Prunus x subhirtella 'Autumnalis Rosea' tree from Thompson & Morgan (you’ll just need to wait a little longer for the first flowers to appear next year).

‘In autumn, the foliage adds another splash of colour as the leaves turn a warm, buttery yellow before falling,’ Annelise adds.

2. Strawberry tree

Ever heard of the strawberry tree? Known botanically as Arbutus unedo, It produces fruits that look just like the popular berries (but don’t taste like them!).

Before that, though, it produces beautiful white blooms. It’s another recommendation of Annelise’s for autumn-flowering trees.

‘Dainty, urn-shaped white flowers dangle alongside red strawberry-like fruits, offering a rich autumnal display,’ says Annelise. ‘Its glossy evergreen foliage and peeling red-brown bark adds further interest, while its spreading, shrubby habit gives it an elegant, natural shape.’

Annelise advises a sunny, sheltered position for the strawberry tree, and says it’s particularly well suited to coastal gardens, too. You can order an established strawberry tree from B&Q.

3. Witch hazel

Witch hazel generally flowers from December to March, but if you’re lucky, it’ll open its blooms as early as October – so it’s among the best autumn-flowering trees you can plant now as well as a brilliant winter-flowering shrub.

‘Witch hazel (Hamamelis) is a small, slow-growing tree or large shrub with fragrant, spidery flowers in late autumn through winter, depending on the variety,’ says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. ‘It’s ideal for a sheltered spot in partial shade and adds scent when little else is flowering.’

American witch hazel is generally the most reliable for autumn flowering, while varieties like witch hazel ‘Jelena’ from Crocus burst into bloom from early winter.

Plant these autumn-flowering trees now for beautiful displays every year.

After a busy summer of mowing, walking across it and dealing with periods of very dry weather, your lawn may be looking a little worse for wear. As we head further into autumn, though, it's not just the grass itself that needs attention – which is why there is one lawn care job you need to do in October, and that's it.

Yes, autumn rain might be welcome after a summer of relentless heatwaves, but too much water sitting on a compacted lawn? Why, that can quickly turn grass into a soggy mess, not to mention completely upend your lawn care calendar.

Think about it: when soil becomes compressed, there is less room for air and water to move through it, which can leave rainfall sitting on the surface rather than reaching the grass roots. And this can be particularly problematic over winter, when wetter weather and heavier rainfall put already compacted lawns under even more pressure.

The one lawn care job you need to do in October

Fortunately, there's just one job you need to do in October to give your lawn a better chance of dealing with all that winter weather. Are you ready for this? Aerating.

Yes, aerating helps to open up compacted soil, creating channels that allow air, water and nutrients to reach the roots. And, according to Morris Hankinson, Managing Director of Hopes Grove Nurseries, October can be a useful time to assess compacted areas and tackle them once the soil has softened following rain.

'When the soil has softened after rain, September is the ideal time to aerate compacted areas. Simply use a garden fork or aerator tool (like the Vonhaus electric lawn scarifier and aerator that our gardens editor loves, which you can buy for £99.99 at Amazon) to make holes in the lawn. This allows air, water and nutrients to reach the roots of the grass,' he says.

'Aerating is helpful after a dry summer because compacted soil prevents rain from soaking deeper into the roots,' Morris adds.

The good news is that aerating doesn't have to be a complicated job, and you don't necessarily need specialist equipment (although something like this aeration tool from Walansee, £35.99 on Amazon, will help). In fact, for smaller lawns or individual compacted areas especially, a simple garden fork can do the job.

Of course, it's all well and good for us to say there's just one job you need to do in October, but how best to go about it? Well, the key is to choose the right conditions; you want the soil to be moist and workable after some autumn rain, but not completely saturated (as this can cause further compaction).

Focus first on areas that receive lots of foot traffic or where you regularly notice water pooling after rain. Push a garden fork vertically into the lawn, creating holes across the affected area. Gently moving the fork backwards and forwards can help open up the soil around each hole.

For larger lawns or more serious compaction, a dedicated lawn aerator or hollow-tine aerator can make the job easier; hollow-tine tools in particular remove small plugs of soil, creating deeper channels through the lawn and allowing water and air to penetrate further.

Shop aeration tools

You don't necessarily need to aerate the entire lawn. Start with the areas most likely to have become compacted, particularly paths that are frequently walked across, areas around garden furniture or children's play areas, and patches where puddles tend to form.

If you're unsure whether an area is compacted, try pushing a garden fork into the soil. If it meets a lot of resistance, that's a good indication that the ground could benefit from being opened up.

Once you've finished, try to avoid walking repeatedly over freshly aerated areas. Give the lawn time to benefit from the improved air and water movement before putting it through more foot traffic.

FAQs

Aerating might be the October job that saves your lawn from becoming a soggy mess this winter, but there's no need to rush out with a fork the minute the rain starts. If the lawn is already saturated, give it a chance to dry out a little first.

You're looking for soil that's damp and workable, rather than waterlogged. That way, you can actually open up the ground without simply squashing more water into already compacted soil. So, before the winter rain really gets going, give your lawn a quick check.

If it feels hard underfoot, water isn't draining as quickly as it should, or your garden fork is putting up a fight, it could be time to give the grass a little breathing room. Your lawn may not thank you out loud, but it might just be the best thing you do for it all year.

You don't need acres of space to enjoy the pleasure of picking fresh fruit straight from your own garden.

The great news is that you can plant fruit trees in a small garden – and the best news is that now is the time to plant them. Autumn in all its golden glory is ideal because the soil is still warm from the summer.

'Rainfall at this time of year provides more natural moisture, and this allows plants to concentrate on establishing their roots before the demands of spring and summer growth begin,' explains Pim Dickson, senior horticulturist at Fothergill's.

With the help of gardening experts, we list below the top seven easiest fruit trees that are ideal for a small garden.

1. Pear

It's a bit of a myth that you need a large garden or an orchard to grow fruit.

'The trick is to choose trees bred to stay small (often called “dwarfing” rootstocks) and, where possible, self‑fertile varieties so you don’t need a second tree to pollinate them,' advises Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

So which are the best pear tree varieties to pick?

Julian suggests ‘Concorde’ as a reliable, self‑fertile choice; ''Doyenné du Comice’ is excellent if you have room and a pollinator.'

Look after your harvest – pruning pear trees is an essential practice for keeping them in great shape and providing you with plenty of fruit.

2. Plum

There's nothing quite like biting into a juicy plum, especially when it's baked into a delectable crumble on a cosy autumnal day. You can grow your own by planting a plum tree in your small garden this month, and within a few years you'll have plenty of crops. And not forgetting the gorgeous blossom that comes with a plum tree every spring...

'If you are looking for a compact fruit tree which will provide excellent seasonal interest for small spaces, then I’d always recommend introducing a compact variety,' says Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert from Harvst Automatic Watering.

Lucie recommends Opal and Victoria; both are self-fertile varieties. You can buy Opal from £29.99 for a five-litre pot from Thompson & Morgan; it is a heavy-cropping variety with red-flushed, yellow-skinned fruit. Victoria is perhaps the most popular variety in this country, known for its juicy plums. You can buy one bare root for £19.99 from YouGarden.

3. Fig

Fig is perhaps a fruit tree you might not have considered. It's low maintenance, and most common ones don't need a pollinator partner.

'Fig trees produce the best crop when their roots are restricted, so they respond well to being grown in pots,' advises Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture. 'Figs can also be fan trained so that the branches grow flat against a wall, and this can maximise the amount of sunlight that the plant receives.'

The two varieties Richard recommends are Brunswick; you can buy this from Roots, for £20. Brown Turkey is available for £14.99, B&Q. Both are compact and of the self-fertile variety.'

4. Apple

'There are many varieties of apple tree available that are well suited to growing in smaller gardens,' suggests Richard. 'Most varieties will need more than one tree for pollination, but if you only have the room for a single tree, it is best to choose a self-fertile variety like 'Braeburn' or 'Red Falstaff'.

One of the easiest fruit trees to grow, apple trees tolerate a wider range of soil types and climates, thrive in large pots and are low maintenance once established – they do need pruning in late winter though.

'You can also save space with apple trees by training them against the wall as a cordon or espalier,' Richard adds.

If you love cooking with apples, then you can't beat the King of Cooking Apples: the Bramley. Buy from YouGarden for £24.99 for a five-litre pot.

5. Mulberry

Mulberries are easy to grow, and the fruit is sweet, juicy and tangy, rather like a blackberry, so if you fancy something a bit different, then give them a try. Pollinators love a mulberry tree, and if your garden is small, then look for dwarf or patio types.

'Easy to care for, if you introduce a potted dwarf mulberry tree into your garden in early to mid autumn it will take advantage of the heat left in the soil so that roots can start growing and it becomes established well before winter weather arrives,' suggests Lucie. 'However, if you want to take advantage of the lower costs of buying a bare root tree, then wait until late autumn, once it has entered dormancy, to add it to your garden.'

Lucie recommends a dwarf variety called Mojo Berry as it has been developed to grow up to two metres in height. You can buy it in a three-litre pot for £27.99 from Crocus; this variety is great for patios.

Pim loves this variety too: 'It is slow-growing and can reach around 1.5m when grown in a container, while still producing fruit. It is interesting for gardeners who want something a little different from the usual apple or pear, and its ability to fruit on both old and new wood can provide a long harvesting period.'

6. Cherry

Are cherry trees worth it for the frothy blossom alone, right?

'They will produce blossom in spring and attractive foliage in autumn,' says Richard. 'A variety like 'Stella' is best for a smaller garden, as it is self-fertile, so you will only need a single tree.'

Julian agrees, 'Cherries on dwarfing rootstock are well suited to small gardens; other self‑fertile options are ‘Lapins’ or ‘Sunburst ’, avoiding the need for another tree.'

You can buy Stella as a maiden tree colt rootstock for £26.99 from Dobies. Lapins has a darker red berry and is available from Crocus for £34.99 for one bare-root colt rootstock. The Sunburst variety is an early-cropping type and is perfect for containers, from £29.99 from Thompson & Morgan.

7. Peach

Peach is a lovely fruit to grow, but you do need to get a few basics right.

'Peaches and nectarines on dwarfing types work well in small gardens, especially trained against a warm, sunny wall, though you’ll need to protect the blossom from late frosts,' advises Julian.

The blossom is fragrant, with pink flowers in spring, and peach trees can grow in containers if your garden is super tight on space. They are prone to leaf curl disease, though the Avalon Pride variety is highly resistant, from £44.99, Dobies.

A great option for small gardens is the peach (Prunus persica); it loves containers and can be bought for £39.99 from Thompson & Morgan.

Fruit tree planting essentials

There are some lovely fruit tree varieties to choose from that are ideal for planting in a small garden this autumn. Which will you pick?

If you’ve noticed that your neighbour’s tree is beginning to ruin the appearance or structural integrity of your outbuilding, you’re likely wondering how best to handle the situation.

Trees in neighbouring gardens can be beneficial for adding shade, privacy and depth to your own outdoor space, but that’s only if they don’t begin to encroach upon or disrupt your property. While minor nuisances like fallen leaves or windfall fruit from trees can be overlooked more easily, frustrations will naturally begin to grow when the tree is causing considerable damage.

If you’ve found yourself in this situation, it can be tricky to decipher exactly where you stand. So, we’ve asked legal experts to share their advice, as well as the exact steps you need to take. Here’s all you need to know.

What does the law say?

If your neighbour’s tree has caused damage to your garage or shed, you might be entitled to a legal claim. However, this largely depends on the extent of the damage and an exact breakdown of the events leading up to it.

‘Where you stand legally depends upon what has happened, including: the scale of the damage; the location of the tree; whether the neighbour was aware that the trees were likely to cause a hazard; and any other actions that have been taken,’ says Jill Carey, Litigation Partner at Freeths Property. Because of this, it is generally advised to seek legal advice relating specifically to your situation.

‘Specialist advice should be sought on the damage and the options to persuade or compel the neighbour to agree to take action,’ explains Jill. ‘The key will be whether your neighbour’s conduct, or lack thereof, was sufficient for them to have been negligent.’

However, there are some useful pointers to keep in mind about the law in general when deciding whether or not to seek legal advice. For instance, Adam Haffenden, Partner and Head of Dispute Resolution at TV Edwards, explains that ‘the law generally expects neighbours to act reasonably once they become aware that their tree is causing damage.’

‘If they fail to take appropriate action after being notified, they may become liable for losses resulting from the nuisance. However, much will depend on the facts, including whether the damage was foreseeable and whether reasonable steps could have been taken to prevent it,’ he adds.

And, if you notice that overhanging branches from your neighbour’s tree are encroaching onto your boundary, the law does permit you to trim them back in some cases. ‘If the tree is not protected by a TPO (or tree preservation order), which you would need to check with the local authority, you are permitted to trim any encroaching roots or branches back to the boundary,’ says Jill. However, you should always seek permission from your neighbour first before moving forward with any work.

‘If permission can be obtained to cut back the tree, you must ensure that this is done without trespassing over the boundary,’ adds Jill. This means that the law will not permit you to gain unauthorised access to your neighbours boundary, and it will not allow you to damage or attempt to cut down your neighbour’s tree.

And, if you gain permission and decide to prune your neighbour’s tree as a preventative measure, be sure to offer them the cuttings in return. ‘If the neighbour does not want them, then you must dispose of them safely,’ advises Jill. ‘Simply throwing them onto the neighbour’s property could constitute fly tipping or trespassing.’

Three immediate steps to take

While seeking legal advice might seem like the most obvious route if damage has been done to your garage, it’s often best to take a friendly approach to neighbourly disputes initially. ‘Neighbour disputes can become expensive and difficult to resolve, so early communication is often the most effective approach,’ explains Adam.

In fact, if you suspect your neighbour’s tree is causing damage to your garage, then these are the three vital steps that experts urge you to take immediately, before taking a legal approach.

1. Record the damage

‘Before you do anything else, it is essential to take photographs and videos to create a clear list of the damage,’ says Jill. This includes sourcing any old photographs that show the condition of the property prior to the damage caused by your neighbour’s tree.

Should you need to seek a legal claim later down the line, these photos will come in handy. ‘The stronger your evidence, the easier it will be to resolve the dispute or pursue a claim and an injunction, if necessary,’ explains Adam. Or, if nothing else, they will help you get your point across to your neighbour.

2. Speak to your neighbour

‘Start with a calm and constructive conversation, as many disputes can be resolved without formal action,’ suggests Adam. ‘Then, follow up the conversation in writing, explaining the damage and asking what steps they propose to take.’

‘This sort of issue should be resolved amicably if at all possible, as neighbour disputes can be very draining if they become litigious, and can affect your home life,’ agrees Jill. ‘If you have a good relationship with the neighbour, then an informal notification and request to resolve the issue may be sufficient. But, in any case, you should ensure that you have all the details of the damage and the tree readily to hand.’

3. Check your insurance

‘You should also check to see if you are covered by any insurance policy, as it will be important to deal with the claim from the outset as the insurer requires,’ says Jill. ‘If you do have insurance, and the damage is likely to be so substantial that remedial works will be required, then you should decide whether to submit a claim before doing anything yourself.’

In most cases, you should be able to solve disputes like this in an amicable manner, without involving legal parties or local authorities. However, if the steps above do not help resolve the matter, then your next steps should be to seek legal advice specific to your situation.

Pruning essentials

If you've gained permission to cut back some of your neighbour's tree, these tools will help