If you are wondering what to do with your lawn in September, you're not alone. Plenty of us have been eyeing our distressed grass nervously from our windows, uncertain what we can do (if anything) to get it looking its verdant best again.

Brown patches, thinning grass and compacted soil are all common after prolonged dry weather, but there really is no need to panic; grass usually bounces back. Still, while September is traditionally one of the busiest months in the lawn care calendar, experts say this year calls for a slightly different approach.

From knowing when to mow to deciding whether your lawn really needs feeding, here's what the experts recommend doing this month...

What to do with your lawn in September

According to Morris Hankinson, Managing Director of Hopes Grove Nurseries, many brown lawns aren't actually dead – they're simply dormant after weeks of drought.

'After this year's drought and prolonged dry weather across the UK, the usual September lawn care routine may not be the same as in previous years.

'Grass usually goes into dormancy throughout drought conditions and will green up again when rain arrives,' he adds. 'Instead of watering a brown lawn, wait for cooler weather and a good amount of rain so the soil softens before getting to work on any major lawn work.'

So, while it can be tempting to reach for the hose, try to keep in mind that established lawns are remarkably resilient and often recover naturally once rainfall returns.

That being said, there are a few tangible things you can do to help...

1. Raise your mower blades

The first thing to do with your lawn in September is more of a what not to do: if your grass is still growing, avoid giving it a close cut. 'Make sure the blades on your mower are higher than you would usually have during summer and only trim infrequently,' says Morris.

'Longer grass will help protect the soil and ultimately make the lawn more resilient in dry conditions. If growth has stopped completely, there's no need to mow at all.'

Peter Chaloner, managing director at Cobra Garden, agrees that mowing should continue only while the lawn is actively growing. 'Avoid cutting it excessively short,' he adds.

'As we move further into autumn, growth will slow naturally, so the frequency of mowing can be reduced gradually.'

2. Aerate compacted soil

Once autumn rain has softened the ground, September is the perfect opportunity to aerate your lawn. 'Simply use a garden fork or aerator tool (like this one from Walansee, £35.99 on Amazon) to make holes in the lawn. This allows air, water and nutrients to reach the roots of the grass,' promises Morris.

'Aerating is helpful after a dry summer because compacted soil prevents rain from soaking deeper into the roots.'

Pater agrees, noting that aeration is especially worthwhile if your lawn has seen plenty of foot traffic over the summer. 'It creates channels through the soil and helps to relieve any compaction,' he notes.

For a smaller lawn, Peter says that 'a garden fork can be perfectly adequate, while more heavily compacted or larger areas may benefit from hollow-tine aeration from an aerator'.

3. Repair bare patches and overseed

September is widely considered one of the best months for sowing grass seed, but timing is crucial after a dry summer.

'While the soil is warm enough for seeds to germinate and the weather is cooler and wetter, don't sow seed into baked, dry soil, though, because the seed will struggle to germinate,' says Morris. 'Wait until rain has softened the soil and there is more rain to come so the soil stays moist.'

He adds that if you have suffered from extremely dry, scorched grass, you must make sure the new seed is a drought-tolerant mix, like Miracle-Gro's Professional Super drought-tolerant mix, £13.43 on Amazon.

Matt J Adams, founder and lead gardener at The Relentless Gardener, agrees that choosing the right seed is incredibly important.

'Overseeding can repair thin or damaged areas, with warm soil and increased autumn moisture creating ideal conditions for germination, but take care to choose a seed mix suited to your lawn, whether hard-wearing, ornamental with a fescue-heavy mix, shady or general-purpose with a mix containing perennial ryegrass and fescues.'

Buy grass seed

4. Feed carefully

Autumn is often associated with lawn feeding, but after a particularly dry summer, not every lawn will benefit.

Morris says: 'At this time of year, feeding is often recommended, but this year's drought means it might not be a good idea. If you have a baked lawn, the RHS recommends avoiding fertiliser on drought-affected turf in autumn and delaying treatment until spring if necessary.'

If your lawn is healthy and has recovered from the drought, Matt says that an autumn-specific feed can help strengthen it before winter.

'A good autumn lawn feed helps prepare the grass for the months ahead by supporting the roots and improving the lawn's ability to cope with winter. Use a feed designed specifically for autumn rather than continuing with a high-nitrogen summer fertiliser.'

'You want to encourage healthy roots and winter resilience, not force lots of soft, leafy growth at the wrong time of year,' he adds.

5. Scarify

September is also a good time to tackle thatch and improve your soil before wetter weather arrives, which is why Peter recommends scarifying to remove built-up moss and dead material.

'One of the most beneficial jobs to consider is scarifying. Over time, a layer of dead grass, moss, leaves and other organic material can build up as thatch at the base of the lawn,' he says, noting that this can prevent water, air and nutrients from properly reaching the soil and grass roots.

'Scarifying involves using a rake, or powered scarifier, like the Vonhaus lawn aerator and scarifier, £99.99 at Amazon, to remove this unwanted material from the lawn. While it can look quite aggressive and may leave the grass appearing thin or patchy initially, it helps clear the way for the healthier grass beneath to thrive,' he promises.

By reducing thatch and moss, scarifying can improve airflow around the base of the grass and allow moisture and nutrients to penetrate the soil more effectively.'

6. Top dress where needed

Matt recommends applying a top dressing after mowing and aerating to improve drainage and help reduce moss over winter.

'Applying a 70/30 top dressing – a mix of sand and soil – can help to prevent waterlogging and create less favourable conditions for moss,' he says, noting that you should 'apply after mowing and, where needed, scarifying and aerating, working it gently into the lawn without smothering the grass'.

FAQs

Rather than trying to transform your lawn in a single weekend, Matt says September should be about laying the foundations for healthier grass next year.

'The key September rule? Don't chase perfection overnight. Focus on healthy roots, appropriate nutrition and good soil conditions for a stronger lawn next spring.'

Sounds like a plan to us!

The neighbour's fence is falling into my garden – what can I do? This is actually quite a common issue. It's a problem that most homeowners will have to deal with at some point, especially if you live in a row of terraced houses and share fences with your neighbours on both sides.

These situations are never easy, unless you already have a fabulous relationship with your neighbour...But if you don't, then I've sought out advice from legal and insurance experts to help with the fence rules you need to know.

'A damaged or falling fence can create big problems, from safety and security risks to neighbourly disputes and costly repairs,' says Kara Gammell, home insurance expert at MoneySuperMarket.

I've outlined some of the questions that come up in this situation and the experts' advice on how to tackle this issue.

1. How to approach a fallen fence with your neighbour

Whether it's a fence issue or another garden feature that causes neighbour disputes, diplomacy from the off is key.

'Take photographs of the falling fence, and make notes of dates so you have a record of the damage,' suggests Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director at LBS Horticulture.

'Before taking matters into your own hands, it’s important to establish who is responsible for the fence and any repairs. This can help avoid unnecessary legal issues and future tensions between you and your neighbours,' Kara advises.

2. How to check ownership/boundary proof

'It's worth noting that the fence doesn’t always belong to the property on the side it appears to be standing on,' shares Kara. 'Fence ownership isn't automatically determined by which garden the fence is facing or who paid for it originally.'

'On property title deeds, 'T' marks will show who owns the boundary,' says Richard. 'However, in the UK, property owners have a legal responsibility to fix or maintain a fence unless it is stated in the deeds. You should avoid trying to push or fix the fence without the permission of your neighbour if it is considered their legal property.'

You can also access title deeds through the Land Registry.

3. How to resolve this issue if it gets tricky

If you've approached kindly, explained the situation and have proof that the fence is on their side then try to keep the conversations practical rather than assigning blame.

'Explain what damage you've noticed with the photographic evidence, and discuss possible repair options, this is more likely to resolve the issue than an argument,' suggests Kara.

'If your neighbour disputes ownership, double check your property's legal documents and fully establish what they actually say before making assumptions,' Kara adds. 'It’s important to note that if the boundary itself is disputed, fences can be moved over time so don't rely solely on the position of the existing fence, as it may not accurately reflect the legal boundary.'

If the above gets you nowhere, then you can try a mediation service. The Royal Institute of Chartered Surveys (RICS) run a boundary disputes mediation service with the Property Litigation Association, you can find the information here.

UK Mediation offers confidential meetings and joint sessions for both parties and Effective Dispute Solutions provide fast-track boundary and neighbour mediation.

'If the fence is leaning or collapsing in a way that poses a safety risk, you may need to contact your local council's Building Control team to report it as a dangerous structure,' advises Richard. 'You will need to provide photos, the location and an explanation, but the council will only act if it risks public safety.'

4. Do they legally have to replace/repair it?

'If the fence belongs to your neighbour and there is no legal agreement requiring them to maintain it, unfortunately they don’t have an obligation to replace it because it is old or unattractive. However, if the condition of the fence is causing damage to your property, the situation becomes more complicated and seeking professional advice may be appropriate,' advises Kara.

In terms of repair or removal if the fence is officially theirs, there are things to consider, Kara explains: 'The most important thing is not to assume that you can repair, remove or replace a fence simply because it is falling into your garden. If the fence belongs to your neighbour, carrying out substantial work without their agreement could create a further dispute.

If you do agree to pay for or arrange the work yourself, it's worth getting the agreement in writing beforehand, including who will pay, what work will be carried out and who will own the new fence. This can help prevent misunderstandings later on.

If a fallen fence causes damage to insured parts of your property, such as outbuildings, it may be worth checking your home insurance policy to understand what cover is available. Policy terms vary, so it's important to review your documents carefully before making a claim.'

Fence maintenance kit

If your neighbour's fence is falling into your garden then follow our steps to hopefully get it resolved, diplomacy and a cool head is the most important start – good luck!

As our gardens start to lose their summer shine, now’s the perfect time to start thinking ahead and getting things prepped for spring. Top of the autumn ‘to-do’ list is bulb-planting and if you want a garden packed with both colour and fragrance, then choosing scented spring bulbs is the way to go.

Planting scented bulbs is a fabulous way of bringing early spring colour and fragrance to your outdoor space, whether planted up in containers, window boxes and hanging baskets near the front door or in flower beds and borders in the back garden, ensuring you’ll be greeted by a waft of spring-fresh fragrance whenever you head outside. And September is the perfect time to plant spring bulbs.

‘There’s no better welcome home in spring than a burst of fragrance at your front door,’ says Shelley Davis, plant expert at Flying Flowers. ‘And by planting fragrant bulbs in doorstep containers or close to your windows means you can enjoy their scent every time you come and go.’

1. Hyacinth

‘If you want your spring garden to look and smell good, hyacinths are an all-round great choice,’ says Shelley. ‘Their tightly packed flowers come in a variety of gorgeous shades including pink, purple, white, and blue, but it’s their strong, sweet fragrance that really makes them stand out.’

‘When planting hyacinth bulbs, they'll generally bloom in early to mid-spring, around March and April, making them particularly effective when planted in containers near doors, windows, or seating areas, where their fragrance can be appreciated up close.’

‘For a more generous hit of scent, the trick for how to plant hyacinth bulbs is to put several bulbs together rather than relying on a single plant,’ adds Shelley. ‘Just make sure containers have good drainage, as hyacinth bulbs won’t thank you for sitting in waterlogged compost over winter.’

‘Hyacinths are one of my favourite scented spring bulbs,’ says Craig Wilson, gardening expert and co-founder of Gardeners Dream. ‘Not only do they come in a range of bold colours to create a bright, vibrant garden, but they also offer a sweet aroma to create an inviting garden.’

‘If you plant your hyacinth bulbs around September to October, you can expect to see them flower between March and April. Just opt for a sunny or partially shaded spot, planting bulbs around four to six inches deep into the soil and ensuring the soil offers good drainage to avoid waterlogging.’

Where to buy hyacinth bulbs:

• Crocus: Enjoy a swathe of fragrant blue flowers with these Hyacinthus orientalis 'Delft Blue', from £7.99.
• Gardeners Dream: Or go for a variety of colours with this Hyacinth Garden Mix, from £12.99.

Shop these planters for front gardens

2. Narcissus ‘geranium’

‘For a bulb that packs plenty of fragrance into a relatively small space, narcissus 'geranium' is a showstopper,’ says Shelley. ‘It’s a Tazetta daffodil, a group known for its scented flowers, with several blooms carried on each stem. Its white petals and warm orange centres also make it an easy way to add a little more interest to a spring display.

'And it’s a great choice that works particularly well in a pot or border close to the house in a front garden.’

‘Narcissus acatea and narcissus geraniums are a good choice,’ says Chris Bonnet, founder of Gardening Express. ‘Narcissus acatea releases a rich, sweet fragrance while narcissus geranium has a strong, zesty scent.’

‘When it comes to planting in the ground, find a spot in the front garden with good drainage, dig a hole around three times the height of the bulb, and place the pointy end up,’ adds Chris. ‘Leave around two bulb widths between each, cover with soil, and nature will do the rest.’

Where to buy narcissus geranium bulbs:

• Primrose: Richly-scented and in delicate clusters, try these Narcissus Geranium, Tazetta Daffodil, £21.98.
• Sarah Raven: These pretty multi-headed blooms are loved by pollinators - Narcissus 'Geranium' Daffodil, from £7.77.

3. Tulips

‘While mostly known for their vivid colours and clean shapes, several tulip varieties carry a surprisingly rich scent, ranging from light citrus notes to deep honey,’ says Shelley. ‘Sweet-smelling varieties like ‘ballerina’ and ‘angelique’ are perfect for adding both visual drama and a delicate perfume to your entryway.’

‘Blooming in mid-to-late spring, they thrive in sunny, sheltered spots. Plant tulip bulbs in deep containers or near pathways, ensuring the soil drains well so the bulbs remain healthy throughout winter,’ adds Shelley.

‘Tulip ballerina, with its sweet, citrus scent, is another great choice for front garden containers,’ agrees Chris. ‘If you’re opting for containers, make sure the pots have large drainage holes and raise them on pot feet or bricks to avoid them becoming waterlogged and use a good quality compost.’

‘Bulbs can be planted much closer together in containers than in the ground, just make sure they don’t touch each other or the side of the pot. And do water immediately after planting and keep the soil slightly damp throughout winter,’ adds Chris.

Where to buy tulip bulbs:

• Gardening Express: Try the orange, frilly shaped blooms of these Tulip Ballerina bulbs, £3.99.
• Thompson & Morgan: Or go for the super-pretty pinky-white Tulip 'Angelique', from £9.99.

4. Scented iris

‘Early-blooming dwarf irises bring a touch of elegance to spring, often flowering as early as February,’ suggests Shelley. ‘Despite their petite size, varieties like ‘Harmony’ (Iris 'Harmony', from £9.99 at Suttons) and ‘Katherine Hodgkin’ (Iris 'Katharine Hodgkin', from £6.99 at J.Parker's) produce a subtle, violet-like scent that signals the start of the new season.’

‘Because of their short stature, irises are best planted in raised containers, window boxes, or near doorstep edges where you can appreciate their intricate patterns and gentle fragrance up close.’

Where to buy scented iris bulbs:

• Suttons: A brilliant choice for front garden containers: Iris 'Harmony', from £9.99.
• J. Parker's: Or go for these pretty pale lilac-coloured Iris 'Katharine Hodgkin', from £6.99.

5. Golden crocus

‘With a mild, sweet, honey-like fragrance, golden crocuses are among the very first blooms to announce the arrival of spring. Their vibrant yellow-gold petals open wide on sunny days, releasing a warm scent that attracts early pollinators to your doorstep,’ suggests Shelley.

‘Appearing in late winter to early spring, golden crocuses work brilliantly when drift-planted in small pots or along the front edge of doorstep containers. Plant crocus bulbs and place them in full sun so the flowers open fully to release their perfume.’

Where to buy golden crocus bulbs:

• Crocus: Enjoy the golden tones of these Crocus chrysanthus var. fuscotinctus, from £7.99.
• Thompson & Morgan: Or try these sunny yellow Crocus 'Yellow Mammoth', from £9.99.

6. Freesias

‘For fragrance that really makes itself known, freesias are hard to beat,’ says Shelley. ‘Their colourful, trumpet-shaped flowers have a sweet, distinctive scent, making them a lovely choice for a pot near the front door.’

‘When planting freesias, be aware that they are less hardy than many traditional spring bulbs, so they’re best treated as a container plant in the UK, using free-draining compost and positioning the pot somewhere bright and sheltered,’ adds Shelley. ‘This makes it easier to move them somewhere protected, like to a greenhouse, when temperatures drop, as they are vulnerable to cold.’

Where to buy freesia bulbs:

• Dobies: Bring a swathe of colour to your garden with this Freesia Mixed pack, from £12.99.
• Amazon: Or go for these super-pretty blue and white blooms - Oliwier's Bulbs 20x Freesia Blue & White Mix, £7.49.

How to get the most from your spring bulbs

‘When planting bulbs in containers, choose a good-quality, free-draining compost and make sure the pot has drainage holes underneath,’ advises Shelley. ‘This is particularly important over winter, as bulbs sitting in waterlogged compost can be prone to rotting.’

‘For the strongest fragrance in the garden, position scented bulbs somewhere sheltered where the scent can linger, rather than in a completely exposed spot. Planting them close to the front door, along a pathway or beneath a window means you’re more likely to notice the fragrance as you pass,’ adds Shelley.

Shop for bulb-planting tools

Will you be planting scented spring bulbs? Let us know your favourite fragrance.

Everyone knows that your neighbours are the luck of the draw, but on the whole I’ve always managed to maintain a courteous and friendly relationship with mine.

So, you can imagine my surprise a few weeks ago when I caught my neighbour trying to cut down a tree at the bottom of my garden, without asking me first.

The legal rules surrounding whether or not you can cut your neighbours tree can feel complicated, but after speaking to the experts about my situation, I feel reassured that I have handled the dispute correctly.

Here’s everything the experts told me, including the immediate steps to take and where you stand legally if you ever find yourself experiencing something similar.

Why my neighbour tried to cut my tree

The actions taken by my neighbour were the culmination of months of ongoing discussions regarding my tree and my neighbours property. I have an oak tree at the bottom of my garden, and directly behind this tree is a private garage owned by my neighbour.

My neighbour believes that our tree is causing damage to his garage. While it’s true that large trees can cause damage to fences and buildings, the tree in my garden is surrounded by badger sets and fox burrows – and I suspect these animals are contributing to the damage.

The element of protected wildlife around the tree adds another layer to this incident, so we responded to claims of damage by requesting a full ecological survey to figure out what is going on. In the meantime, my neighbour advised his insurance company that he owns the tree (despite the fact it is located within our boundary line).

This prompted the insurance company to employ arborists to take action on the tree, without my knowledge or consent. Instead of waiting for the results of the ecological survey, or discussing the matters with my household, the action began to take place. And I returned home one day to find the arborists up my tree, beginning to chop it down.

In a complete shock, I spoke with the arborists and immediately halted all work – a call that legal and home insurance experts have since confirmed that I was right to make.

How I’m handling the situation

As soon as I saw the arborists in my tree without my consent, I spoke to them straight away. ‘Where any misbehaviour or wrongful conduct happens without your consent, the first step should always be to speak to the individual,’ advises John Roberts, Partner and Director of Austin Lafferty Solicitors.

‘Of course, this is only if you feel safe to do so - never put yourself in a dangerous position by confronting someone,’ adds John. ‘Remain civil and polite with the neighbour and explain why their actions are affecting you, including the legal reasons as to why this is a concern.’

Once work was halted and the arborists left, I decided to take pictures of the damage done to the trees. At this point, I was still reacting out of shock, but it turns out this is something experts always suggest doing.

‘If your neighbour has already started cutting the tree, take photographs of the tree and any damage as soon as possible, ideally showing the wider context and where the tree sits in relation to your borders,’ says Kara Gammell, Home Insurance Expert at MoneySuperMarket.

‘Keep a record of any messages or conversations you have had about the work too,’ Kara says. This will make it much easier to state your case and provide evidence should you need to take further action later down the line.

When the dust had settled and the initial shock had worn off, I decided that my next step should be to report the arborists to the police for criminal damage seeing as the work was unauthorised and carried out without consent of the tree’s owner.

‘If a neighbour tries to cut down a tree that belongs to you, the law will generally be on your side,’ explains James Smith, solicitor in the property disputes team at Birketts LLP. ‘Unauthorised works can amount to a criminal offence and may result in significant penalties,’ he adds.

It is also worth checking whether or not your tree is protected by a Tree Protection Order (or TPO) – if it is, the law can be stronger. ‘Additional restrictions apply where a tree is protected by a TPO or is located within a conservation area. Protected trees generally cannot be cut down, uprooted, topped, lopped or wilfully damaged without the necessary consent from the local planning authority,’ advises James.

The tree in my garden is not currently covered by a TPO, but since this incident I have lodged an application to put one in place. If approved, this will give me further peace of mind against future incidents.

I also decided to write to my neighbour’s insurance company to state that no further action is to take place, and no arborists are to enter the boundary of my property without my consent. And I've requested an update on the ecological survey, the results of which I am still waiting for.

What the law says

Every situation is different, and all neighbourly disputes can be complicated in their own way. However, there are some legal pointers that can be useful to know when dealing with these matters.

Firstly, if you’re unsure whether or not you own the tree in your garden, it’s important to know that ‘in most cases, if the trunk of the tree stands entirely on your land, the tree belongs to you,’ says James. ‘A neighbour generally has no right to cut down a tree that belongs to someone else without permission. Similarly, a neighbour does not usually have the right to enter your land to carry out works to your tree. Entering another person's property without consent may amount to trespass.’

However, if your tree overhangs into your neighbour's garden, the rules around what your neighbour can and can’t do shift slightly. ‘Your neighbour has the legal right to cut back overhanging tree branches or encroaching roots to your exact boundary line,’ says John. ‘But the neighbour must perform all cutting from their own side and should not cross a boundary line without explicit permission.’

‘The key rule to remember is that a neighbour can generally trim branches or roots from your tree where they have crossed onto their property, but they should not cut beyond their own boundary,’ agrees Kara. ‘If you’re unsure where the boundary of your property lies, checking your property's title documents and plans should be your first port of call, as the position of a boundary isn't always as obvious as it appears from a fence or hedge,’ she adds.

However, despite this legal entitlement, it is still considered common courtesy to discuss the matter with your neighbour before carrying out any work. Plus, in many cases, the cuttings or fruit that might come into your possession after pruning your neighbours tree should be offered back to the owner of the tree.

It’s also always important to remember that your tree is ultimately your responsibility. ‘As the tree owner, you have a duty to take reasonable care of your tree, particularly if there is a foreseeable risk of falling branches or roots causing damage to neighbouring property,’ explains Kara. ‘If a tree is diseased, unstable or presenting a clear risk, ignoring the problem could potentially leave you liable for any damage caused to your neighbour’s property.’

And finally, the key with any matter is to address it in a calm and civil manner. ‘Disputes over trees can quickly become a source of tension between neighbours, so taking reasonable steps to address concerns can help prevent issues from escalating further,’ says Kara.

Keep your tree in good condition

Keep these tools handy to ensure proper tree maintenance.

With the leaves slowly starting to fall and a slight chill in the air, autumn isn't far away. After a summer full of colour, we can miss those wonderful flowers in shades and tones that lift our gardens up visually.

For those who love more year-round colour, we've asked our gardening experts how we can keep our gardens looking fabulous with beautiful flowers that will continue to bloom as we approach December (and dare I say it, Christmas).

'For colour that lasts into December, you’re really looking at a mix of hardy winter bedding, late perennials and a few shrubs that genuinely keep going,' says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

1. Winter pansies (and violas)

Pansies are ideal for that stunning display of colour that will transform your garden after the summer varieties fade.

Julian agrees, 'Pansies and violas are the workhorses here; they’ll flower through most winters, especially in pots or sheltered borders, and just need deadheading to keep them tidy.'

September is a great month to get them established. 'Adding these to your garden now will allow them to quickly establish a strong root system whilst the soil is still warm; this will help them to thrive all the way through autumn, winter and into the following spring,' advises Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation. 'Whilst they appear to flower almost continuously, they will actually pause when there is extremely frosty or snowy weather and start to produce new blooms as soon as warmer temperatures return.'

There are plenty of pansies and violas around to buy at the moment; we particularly love the lilacs of the Matrix mix Ocean Breeze trays from J. Parkers, prices start from £11.99 for 40. For a more classic multicoloured look, Thompson & Morgan's Matrix mix, from £7.79 for six plug plants, will give you yellows, whites, reds, and oranges.

2. Hellebores

There's something rather wonderful about hellebores – their unusual cup-shaped flowers in whites, pinks and reds are a great addition over these duller months.

'Hellebores can be planted from October right until March, but if you’re aiming for them to bloom into December, try to plant in early autumn to give the plants a chance to establish before flowering,' suggests Chris Bennett, founder of GardeningExpress.

'They tolerate cold well and provide the garden with colour and structure. Plant them in rich, well-drained soil and in partial shade and keep them watered during their first growing season. In late winter, remove any old foliage to show off the emerging flowers.'

If you're a purist, then the white variety will be perfect: hellebore Christmas Carol, from £10, Thompson & Morgan, or pick the pretty pink helleborus Viv 'Valeria' that's so loved, £15.99, GardeningExpress.

3. Cyclamen

Cyclamen are the gift that keeps on giving; they last for years, can live indoors, and add beautiful flowering displays. The best time to plant them is during September to October.

'They thrive in cool, sheltered conditions, so they can be particularly effective if planted beneath trees or in sheltered containers', advises Chris. 'They’re great for adding colour into the garden in winter as delicate blooms stand out well against cool weather foliage. Be mindful not to overwater, especially once the plant is established, as this can cause the tubers to rot.'

Colours include rose pink, bright pink, magenta and whites with a hint of colour. We love the hederifolium variety with its pretty marbled leaves and pale pink flowers, £12.99 for a 9cm pot, Crocus. If you can't decide on a colour, opt for a choice of three – Amazon have a white, pink and magenta pack of three 9cm pots for £15.95.

4. Camellia

Camellias are evergreen shrubs that produce rose-like blooms in red, pink, white, and butter yellow.

'If you have space for a shrub, Camellia × vernalis ‘Yuletide’ is superb over the festive period, coated in red and gold flowers from November into January,' suggests Julian.

'They will set their flower buds in late summer, so will need to be watered consistently at this time so the buds do not dry up and drop off,' says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director at LBS Horticulture. 'The plant needs to be kept in partial shade and sheltered from harsh, direct morning sun, as this can scorch the buds. If there are any harsh frosts, the plant will need to be covered with horticultural fleece overnight.'

Another variety that blooms up to December is 1001 Summer Nights, which has coral-coloured flowers, from £29.99 at Dobies.

5. Mahonia japonica

'No matter what the weather, this low-maintenance shrub will provide colour in your garden when other flowers have faded and do so with minimal intervention,' says Lucie.

It's an upright shrub with distinctive spiky leaves and clusters of bright yellow blooms; it can grow up to a height of two metres when it reaches maturity.

Another bonus is that it's drought tolerant, Lucie adds, 'After the first couple of years this adaptable shrub rarely needs feeding, is untroubled by most pests and diseases and only needs you to prune away unruly growth means it virtually thrives on neglect yet rewards you with interest and form all year round.'

If you like the idea of yellow blooms this autumn, then you can buy your Mahonia japonica from Thompson & Morgan, from £12.99 for a 9cm pot.

Shopping essentials

Now is the perfect time to start looking for some amazing flowering plants that will give you colour and interest from now until December.

At this time of the year we're all starting to plan our bulbs for the season ahead – deciding on our garden layouts, how to plant bulbs, where to plant them, colour schemes and then getting them planted.

It's a busier time of year than one imagines especially as it's the ideal time to plant bulbs for spring. The big question as well is whether we water bulbs after planting, or is there enough moisture in the ground already for them to manage?

We've asked our garden experts for their thoughts and tips and how to give them the best start in autumn so they thrive.

Do you water bulbs after planting in autumn?

'When planting bulbs, just like when you are adding pot grown plants into your garden, watering straight after planting is advisable simply to help settle the soil back into place around the bulbs,' advises Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse rxpert at Harvst Automatic Watering.

The reason behind this method? 'Bulbs need their bases to make direct contact with moist soil in order for them to produce roots - by watering immediately after planting you settle the soil and remove any air pockets so the bulbs are completely in contact with the soil,' Lucie shares.

Fiona Macdonald, cut flower and foliage farmer at Flowers by Raspberry Wild agrees, 'I water them in as it sets the soil/compost around them and gives them a nice home, then I leave them completely. If the spring is dry I'll give them a drink, but you will get to know – and they will tell you if they need watering after.'

It is vital to check your soil though, Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres explains, 'The main thing is to avoid constantly wet soil, as bulbs can rot when they are left sitting in water.'

You can easily check the moisture in your soil by investing in a tester, Amazon's 5-in-1 soil moisture meter also measures pH levels, sunlight intensity and temperature as well, it's currently £16.65.

Ground vs pots

This is where the difference comes in – and more care is needed to keep your freshly planted bulbs thriving.

'Whilst bulbs planted in the ground in autumn are unlikely to need you to water them regularly, you may need to water those which you have planted in pots,' says Lucie.

Julian explains why, 'Bulbs in containers usually need more attention than those planted in the ground. Pots can dry out quickly, so check them during prolonged dry spells. Keep the compost lightly moist but make sure excess water can drain freely through the holes in the base. Once shoots appear, apply a high-potash feed, such as tomato feed, to support flowering.'

Aftercare tips for getting bulbs off to a good start in autumn

Two areas for after planting care to watch out for are pests and disease.

'It’s important to keep in mind when planting bulbs in the autumn that they will be viewed as a rich source of nutrients and water to many pests visiting your garden as their natural sources of food start to reduce as the weather changes,' says Lucie.

To ensure your bulbs stay where you planted them there are a couple of things you can do. The first is to use bulb baskets – we like Thompson & Morgan's, from £5.99 for one, and is good at stop squirrels from digging up bulbs. Another option is to plant them a bit deeper. 'You can also use chicken wire above the bulbs and below the surface of the soil or mulch to prevent them from being easily dug up,' Lucie adds.

Tulip fire is perhaps the most common, and does only affect tulips. There's also bulb rot that's caused by fungi or bacteria in soggy soil. To help prevent these bulb diseases it's important to keep your bulls in a cool, dry, well-ventilated space before planting out. Choose only the healthy looking bulbs, reject any that feel soft and have signs of mould. Make sure they're not damaged too.

Essential bulb planting kit

It is always a good idea to water your bulbs after planting, but sparingly – learn how to check your soil with a tester and keep an eye out for pests and disease that can hinder your bulbs from thriving over the winter months.

Hydrangeas are at their peak from late spring through to autumn, but in September you'll find their blooms starting to peter out. There are several things you should do with hydrangeas in September as the blooms near their end to get them ready for next year.

Autumn hydrangea care is quite straightforward, involving protecting them with mulch ahead of winter and leaving the heads intact. However, in September there are a few other jobs you can do that will not only keep your plants looking their best but could give you some free plants for next year too.

Chris Bonnett founder of GardeningExpress says, 'September is a good time of year to give hydrangeas a little more attention. For example, spent flowerheads can be left alone over autumn and winter as they add a gorgeous look to the garden, especially when frost arrives.'

1. Don't hard prune

It's vital that you don't over-prune hydrangeas at this time of year. Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director at LBS Horticulture explains why: 'Faded flowerheads should be left intact and on hydrangeas over winter. This is because they will naturally insulate the following year's flower buds from the cold winds and frosts in winter.'

'If you really don’t like the look of browned blooms, you can snip off just the flower head,' suggests Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. 'Cut the stem just below the spent flower, but don’t take much off and avoid cutting into the thicker, woody stems. For lacecap varieties, you can cut the faded heads back after flowering to the second pair of leaves below the head to stop seed forming, which saps energy.'

When you are giving your hydrangeas a little prune it's also a great time to check for pests and diseases.

2. Take cuttings

September is the last possible time to take cuttings from your hydrangea before it goes into its winter dormancy. You can take semi-ripe ones, which is when the base of the stem is beginning to get woody, but the tip is still green.

'When taking cuttings from hydrangeas at this time of year, look for healthy, straight stems from this year's growth which are free of flowers or flower buds,' advises Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Harvst Automatic Watering. 'You need to cut a length of approx 10 to 15cm in length, cutting through the stem just below a leaf node where there is a high concentration of plant cells and hormones which will trigger root growth.'

According to Lucie, the roots should start to appear after 4 to 6 weeks, and from that point onwards your new hydrangea has time to develop a healthy root system ready for next spring.

3. Keep watering

One thing that is important is to keep watering. 'We’ve had some rainfall so far, but if September is dry where you are, then continue to water newly planted hydrangeas and keep a close eye on those in containers,' suggests Chris.

Julian agrees, 'The phrase “water until the ground freezes” is useful: well-hydrated roots cope with winter far better than dry ones.'

You can check the soil's moisture levels with a tester – we like the XLUX long probe plant soil moisture meter, £12.99, Amazon, or have a good feel about the soil and see if it feels moist further down or not.

4. Use mulch

Mulching is such a key element for healthy plants and for locking in moisture – it's a must-have buy for every garden – or make your own! It also suppresses weeds and insulates your hydrangea from the cold months that lie ahead.

'Mulching around the base of hydrangeas will help to protect the plants from frosts and retain moisture,' says Richard. 'Use an organic material like bark, leaf mould or rotted manure, ensuring that the mulch does not actually touch the stem of the plant to prevent rotting.'

Amazon sell leaf mould compost, 50 litres by Happy Earth Soil for £18.98, it's made from 100% fallen leaves making it a living compost with worm castings and microbes.

5. Stop fertilising

'In September, you should stop feeding hydrangeas if you are still doing so,' advises Richard. 'Fertilising can encourage the plant to produce new, weak growth that can be easily damaged by autumn frosts.'

'If you feed at all,' adds Julian, 'Use a low‑nitrogen, high‑potash feed so you don’t push soft growth that winter will hit.'

We like Westland's sulphate of potash fertiliser, 1.5kg for £11.99, Amazon.

Your pruning kit essentials

Follow these top tips this September and your hydrangeas will survive the winter well.

Whilst I love planting tulips, I fancy buying some alternative bulbs to tulips this year for my little garden.

Can lesser-known bulbs beat the best tulip varieties? I've asked some of our fabulous garden experts to see what other bulbs I can plant – let's see if they offer more than the infamous spring tulip! Off the top of my head, I'm thinking hyacinths and crocuses, but I'd love to have more than the stereotypical spring bloomers that are alternatives to tulips.

I mainly have pots, so I'm really looking forward to more variety, different textures and wonderful colours for spring, and not putting all of my bulb budget into one variety.

1. Fritillaria

'I love a fritillaria,' says Caroline Bates, creative director of Hayloft Floral and co-founder of The Dish Girls.

'They come in so many sizes, from the gorgeous, delicate snakehead to the tall, spire-shaped Persica varieties, and the imperialis varieties, which look like something quite exotic. They grow really well in our climate too – some of the imperialis varieties can have an interesting scent, so they’re great for placing in borders where they can grow up to a metre tall or more, so maybe avoid putting them in pots right outside your back door!'

Between September and October is the best time to plant fritillaria bulbs in your garden's borders, and they love both full sun and partial shade – you just need to remember to plant them pointy side up.

Where to buy fritillaria

• Fritillaria imperialis Rubra, from £4.99, J. Parkers
• Fritillaria persica, from £6.99, Crocus
• Fritillaria meleagris mix, from £11.99, Suttons

2. Ranunculus

I absolutely love ranunculus – they're one of the first really beautiful flowers of spring that come in a great array of colours, from white to pastel pinks, corals, yellows and punchy reds.

Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture, loves them too: 'Ranunculus produce rose-like, multi-layered flowers that can make excellent cut flowers. Soak the tubers for a day before planting in room temperature water, and when planting, the 'claws' should point downwards.

According to Richard, they are best planted where they will receive at least six hours of sunlight a day, and the soil should be watered gently after planting. 'Do not water the tubers heavily until you see green sprouts emerge, as excessive moisture in cold soil can cause rotting.'

Where to buy ranunculus

• Ranunculus Tomer Pink, from £4.99, J. Parkers
• Ranunculus mixed Persian Buttercup, from £9.99, Dobies
• Ranunculus Red, from £9.99, Thompson & Morgan

3. Grape hyacinth or muscari

'Grape hyacinths that we know and love come with bright blue flowers that look like a blend of a bunch of grapes and hyacinth flowers,' says Richard. They also come in various shades of blue, purple, white and a pale pink with a delicate look to them. For variety in your garden, they are great for creating some scale against the normal spring flowers like daffodils and hyacinths.

'The bulbs should be grown in moist, well-draining soil in sun or shade, and they can be naturalised in a lawn or planted in containers,' adds Richard. 'Plant the bulbs in small clusters by digging a small trench around 10cm deep, and then toss in a handful of the bulbs.'

This variety is one of the easiest spring bulbs to plant in pots and containers if your garden is small.

Where to buy grape hyacinths

• Muscari Pink Sunrise, from £9.99, Dobies
• Muscari neglectum, from £5.99, Crocus
• Muscari armeniacum Peppermint, from £4.99, J. Parkers

4. Summer snowflake

Summer snowdrops, or Leucojum aestivum, are often called summer snowdrops. They flower from around March through to May after the Galanthus snowdrops, that we know so well, have finished their display.

They also suit heavy clay soil, according to Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert for Harvst Automatic Watering. 'Unlike the majority of bulbs which you can plant at this time of year, Summer Snowdrops thrive in damp, moisture-retentive soils, which means that even if you have heavy clay soil these bulbs will produce their tall, elegant, pure white bell-shaped flowers which are held aloft on flower stalks between 45 to 90cm in height.'

Mid to late autumn is the best time to plant your bulbs, between 8 to 10cm deep in a sunny or partially shaded spot in your garden. 'They are very easy to grow. If you miss the opportunity to plant bulbs from September through to November, then just like snowdrops, you can plant them ‘in the green’ in late winter, early spring, just like their close relatives, snowdrops, which will have just finished flowering when your Summer Snowflakes larger stems of blooms will take over,' explains Lucie.

Where to buy summer snowdrops

• Summer snowdrop, Loddon Lily, from £7.99, Suttons
• Summer snowflake bulbs, size 8/9, set of 20, £14.99, Amazon
• Leucojum aestivum Gravetye Giant, from £13, J. Parkers

6. Erythronium or dog's tooth violet

Erythronium, or dog's-tooth violet, is a graceful woodland plant with nodding, lily-like flowers. 'Depending on the variety, the blooms can be yellow, white or pink,' says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. 'The leaves are often mottled, adding interest even before the flowers appear.'

A spring bulb that loves partial shade, dog's-tooth violet ideally loves being planted underneath deciduous trees or among shrubs. 'Dog's-tooth violet prefers soil that is rich in organic matter but still drains well,' shares Julian. 'Adding compost or leaf mould before planting will help create the cool, leafy conditions it likes. It looks particularly good alongside ferns, hellebores and other spring woodland plants.'

Where to buy dog's-tooth violet

• Erythronium dens-canis, from £9.99, Crocus
• Erythronium calfornicum White Beauty, from £10.99, Suttons
• Erythronium Pagoda, from £6.99, J. Parkers

Essential bulb planting kit

Whilst I adore the varieties our experts have recommended – and I will definitely invest in them, I'm not sure I can entirely miss out on double tulips...

'I would skip single tulips, but I would go for big double peony style varieties, advises Fiona Macdonald, cut flower and foliage farmer at Flowers by Raspberry Wild. 'They last for weeks in the garden and are even gorgeous when they've blown – they get better and better. Nothing can replace a big, double chunky tulip like La Belle Epoque or Dreamer; they are highly impactful and look fabulous in pots, borders and as a cut flower.'

After the hot, dry summer we’ve just had, springtime seems a long way off. And while planting bulbs might not be on your September ‘to do’ list, it most definitely should be if you want your garden to look fabulous come springtime, say the experts.

Planning and planting spring bulbs in September is the perfect time to do it if you want to get ahead and beat the gardening rush, according to garden experts. With the ground still warm from summer, planting spring bulbs now will give them plenty of time to establish roots before winter frosts set in and the soil gets too cold and wet or too hard to dig.

‘Getting started this month also means that you can make the most of a wide choice of spring bulbs before some of the more popular varieties become hard to track down later in autumn,’ advises David Denyer, florist and gardening expert at eflorist. ‘And my advice is to go for a mixture of bulbs in September that will flower at different points during the spring, as this will give you a longer-lasting display.’

1. Daffodils

‘There’s a reason daffodils, also known as narcissus, are the quintessential spring flower,’ says Shelley Davis, flower expert at Flying Flowers. ‘Flowering from late February through to May, their distinctive butter-yellow petals and trumpet-shaped centres are guaranteed to lift the spirits after the cold winter months.’

‘Planting daffodils in September gives the bulbs plenty of time to establish their roots before colder weather arrives. They’re happy in sun or partial shade, and can be planted directly into borders, lawns, or containers. For the best impact, plant these hardy perennials in five bulbs or more in a circle rather than scattering single bulbs throughout the garden, as a cluster will give you much more of that classic spring display.’

‘If you’re planting daffodils in containers, make sure there are drainage holes underneath. Daffodil bulbs are generally one of the easiest to grow, but they don’t appreciate sitting in soggy soil, particularly through the wetter winter months,’ adds Shelley.

Where to buy daffodil bulbs:

• Thompson & Morgan: Enjoy a colourful display with these cheery Narcissus 'Citrus Sorbet', from £12.99.
• Gardeners Dream: Or go for a variety of blooms with this Daffodil Garden Mix, £23.99.

2. Crocuses

‘Crocuses are perfect if you want some of the earliest colour of the year, with many appearing from February onwards,’ suggests David. ‘They work particularly well planting crocus bulbs in groups rather than individually, whether that’s through borders, beneath deciduous trees or in containers. Aim for well-drained soil and plant them around 7-10cm deep.’

‘For gardeners looking for maximum impact from a relatively small flower, crocuses are a brilliant option,’ says Shelley. ‘Their cup-shaped flowers appear in vibrant shades of purple, yellow, and white and can provide one of the first real bursts of colour after winter, often flowering from February onwards.’

‘Crocuses are versatile too, working in borders, containers, and even lawns. Planting them in generous groups is the best way to create a natural-looking splash of colour, so don’t be afraid to plant more than you think you need,’ adds Shelley. ‘Crocuses are also a useful early source of nectar and pollen for emerging pollinators, so planting a good cluster can provide a valuable food source when fewer flowers are in bloom.’

‘September is prime time to get certain spring bulbs planted to ensure a blooming garden come March,’ says Craig Wilson, co-founder and gardening expert at Gardeners Dream. ‘And make sure to use good drainage soil. A great tip here is to mix grit into your soil if it’s a heavier type, which will help prevent waterlogging.’

‘Plant your bulbs quite deep into the soil. For crocuses, plant the crocus bulbs around three inches down and double that depth for planting daffodils. Place in either sunny positions or in lightly shaded parts of your garden and keep a check on them if there has been little rain, giving them a water if necessary.’

Where to buy crocus bulbs:

• Sarah Raven: These pretty purple blooms will add early springtime colour, Crocus Tommasinianus, from £5.95.
• Suttons: Or try a bold mix of colours with this Crocus 'Botanical Mixed', from £12.99.

3. Hyacinths

‘Hyacinths are a lovely choice when you want spring bulbs for fragrance as well as colour and can work especially well in pots positioned somewhere you regularly walk past,’ suggests David.

‘For how to plant hyacinths, aim for a depth of around 10 cm and leave enough room between bulbs for them to develop. They generally flower around March and April and prefer a sunny or partially shaded position with good drainage.’

Where to buy hyacinth bulbs:

• Crocus: These all-white blooms will look stunning - Hyacinthus orientalis 'White Pearl', from £6.99.
• Gardeners Dream: Or mix it up with the vibrant tones of this Hyacinth Garden Mix, £36.99.

4. Snowdrops

‘Snowdrops, with their delicate bell-shaped white flowers, are another early-flowering favourite, with some varieties popping up while the garden is still looking decidedly bare,’ says Shelley.

‘Growing up to around 15cm tall, common snowdrops are relatively small, so to make the most of them, the best places to plant snowdrops are towards the front of a border or alongside a pathway, where you can spot their delicate blooms up close. They’re particularly suited to cooler, shadier parts of the garden, and can cope well with damp conditions, making them a good choice for a wetter season. However, avoid planting them anywhere where soil is persistently waterlogged.’

‘Snowdrop bulbs can also take a bit more time to settle in, so don’t be disappointed if your first display is relatively modest,’ adds Shelley. ‘Once established, they can return year after year and gradually create a more spectacular display.’

Where to buy snowdrop bulbs:

• Thompson & Morgan: Enjoy delicate spring colour with these super-pretty hardy Snowdrops, from £8.99.
• Sarah Raven: Or go for the equally pretty Galanthus nivalis (Common Snowdrop), from £15.95.

5. Fritallaria

‘If you’re looking for something a little less traditional, fritillaries are a charming choice,’ suggests Shelley. ‘Their distinctive bell-shaped flowers come in a range of forms, colours and sizes, adding character and interest to any spring display, so now is the perfect time when it comes to when to plant fritillaria bulbs.’

‘Although largely hardy, fritillarias need to be planted somewhere their blooms can catch the spring sunshine, while the dormant bulbs remain protected from excessive summer heat. They enjoy damp conditions when flowering, but prefer to stay drier once dormant, so good drainage is key.’

‘September is the ideal time to plant spring bulbs as the soil is still warm and it allows roots to grow strong before winter frosts set in,’ advises Chris Bonnett, founder of Gardening Express. ‘Early flowering varieties like daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, snowdrops and alliums will all benefit from September planting and are bulbs that come back year after year.’

‘When it comes to how to plant bulbs, try and find a spot in the garden with good drainage so the roots don’t rot. Dig a hole around three times the height of the bulb, placing the pointy end up. Leave around two bulb widths between each. If you’re going for a more natural look, throw them on the ground and plant where they land. Cover with soil, and autumn showers should give them all the water they need.’

‘Early varieties, like snowdrops, will start to bloom around January, February time, followed by the other varieties.’

Where to buy fritillaria bulbs:

• Suttons: Bold and dramatic, make a statement with this Fritillaria meleagris Mix, from £11.99.
• Farmer Gracy: Or go for the striking and stripey Fritillaria acmopetala pointed-petal fritillary, from £5.25.

6. English bluebells

‘One of the most iconic British wildflowers, English bluebells are known for their nodding, scented blue flowers that bloom along one side of the stem,’ says Shelley. ‘These hardy bulbs are a particularly good choice for those trickier, shadier spots in the garden, as they can thrive where other plants may struggle, including beneath trees.’

‘When it comes to how to plant English bluebells, they can cope with damp shade through winter and spring, before tolerating drier conditions in summer. Once established, they naturally split and multiply each year, gradually creating a beautiful carpet of colour.’

Where to buy English bluebell bulbs:

• Amazon: Bring a swathe of colour to your garden with these True English Bluebell bulbs, £20.99.
• Gardeners Dream: Or go for the delightful Hyacinthoides non-scripta English Bluebell, from £10.99.

7. Alliums

‘For something that carries spring colour towards early summer, planting allium bulbs is a brilliant option,’ suggests David. ‘Their distinctive globe-shaped flower heads can add height and structure to borders, with many varieties flowering from May onwards.’

‘Alliums prefer a sunny position and free-draining soil. Planting depth varies with bulb size, but a useful rule is approximately three times the bulb’s own depth.’

Where to buy allium bulbs:

• Gardening Express: With large purple heads for a dramatic look, try these Allium Jackpot bulbs, from £5.99.
• J. Parker's: Or go for the more unusual drumstick shaped Allium sphaerocephalon, from £4.99.

How to help spring bulbs thrive

‘When it comes to bulb planting, always avoid waterlogged soil, as bulbs left sitting in wet conditions can rot,’ advises David. ‘If your soil is particularly heavy, adding organic matter or grit can help improve drainage.’

‘Planting bulbs in groups rather than individually makes for a much stronger display. Don’t worry about making everything look too precise either; slightly irregular groups tend to create a much more natural effect when they emerge in spring.’

‘And while September is a great month for many spring bulbs, I’d hold off on planting tulip bulbs until later in autumn. Planting those when the soil has cooled, typically around November, can help reduce the risk of fungal disease.’

And remember, if you're planning on planting spring bulbs in great numbers, using a bulb-planting tool can help make the task easier, allowing you to fill garden borders and flower beds at speed and with greater ease.

Shop for bulb-planting tools

Have you made a plan for planting your spring bulbs? Let us know your favourites.

If a council tree is causing a nuisance – perhaps blocking light, dropping leaves that block gutters or restricting access to your property – you'll want to know if, and how, you can remedy the situation.

Since the tree is growing on council land, it doesn't belong to you, which limits what you can do. In all cases, directly approach the council, highlight your concerns and seek their guidance on the best next steps. Specific rules and best practices will vary from council to council.

This will take longer than just getting out your secateurs but will prevent you from accidentally breaking the law in your garden.

When can I prune a tree on council land?

If the tree's branches are overhanging your property, then you can prune a tree on council land. This applies whether the tree is on council land or if it is your neighbours plants that are growing over into your garden.

'You have the right to cut back overhanging branches from trees or shrubs on council-owned land to the extent of your boundary, provided always that they are overhanging,' says Janet Lane, Property Litigation Solicitor at Rogers and Norton. 'You must not trespass onto council land while doing so and should return any severed branches to the council without causing damage or a nuisance in doing so.'

Before starting work, contact your council and explain your proposed work. Also check your local council website – which you can find on this Government directory – for specific advice for your area. Some councils will permit you to dispose of cuttings, but you should always double-check.

When pruning a tree on council land, you need to do everything you can to protect the tree. This includes knowing the best way to prune a specific tree and when not to prune trees. If you lack confidence or ability, ask if the council will prune a tree on council land.

When can you not prune a tree on council land?

Unfortunately there are more times you can't prune a tree on council land than the times you can.

1. It has a tree protection order

A Tree Preservation Order (also known as TPO) legally protects certain trees that are particularly beneficial to the community, environment or history. Your council will be able to inform you if the tree in question has a TPO but you should always check.

Never prune a tree with a TPO without permission. If you need to prune a tree with a TPO you will have to make a 'works to trees' application via GOV.UK before starting work. If you make the mistake of cutting down a tree that is under a Tree Preservation Order, you could be fined up to £20,000.

2. If the tree is blocking light

Unfortunately, you have no right to light in your garden. Therefore, you cannot prune a tree on council land to increase the light in your garden – unless the branches are on your property – nor can you ask the council to prune or remove a tree for this reason.

'Most councils will not cut back trees that they own if they are blocking sunlight, and will often only take action if the tree in question poses a safety risk to the public,' warns Graham Smith MCIHort, horticultural expert from LBS Horticulture.

This still applies if you want to increase the light in order to fit solar panels and maximise the energy.

If it is your neighbour’s tree that is blocking your sunlight, approach them directly.

3. If it's dropping leaves, honeydew or fruit

Dropping leaves, honeydew (a sticky residue) or fruit are not a reasonable justification for pruning a tree on council land – unless the offending branches are overhanging your property.

As is the case if a neighbour's tree is dropping leaves into your garden, you do not have any rights to the leaves, fruit or anything else that falls into your garden.

'You do not have the right to keep or dispose of any fruit on or falling from overhanging branches. They should be returned to the council in a suitable manner, unless it agrees differently. If leaves/fruit/sap are causing significant harm to your property or pose a risk, this should be reported to the council in writing, setting out the nature and seriousness of the problem, and asking that it addresses the issue,' says Janet Lane, Property Litigation Solicitor at Rogers and Norton.

However, there is no guarantee that the council will address the issue – often council websites explicitly state that they will not – but it is still worth asking the question.

If dropped leaves or fruit are causing a slip hazard on public footpaths or blocking public drains, then you should contact the council as this is their responsibility.

4. Touching telephone wires or blocking signal

Trees touching telephone wires can cause issues with signal or internet, however, this is not grounds to prune a tree on council land.

If the tree is on council land, it is often recommended that you contact your service provide or to further investigate the problem. However, double check your local council website for specific advise for your area.

5. Birds are nesting or leaving droppings

Birds nesting and leaving dropping can cause a bit of a nuisance but it is not enough to classify as a legal nuisance and as such most councils will not prune a tree for this reason.

Unless the branches are in your property, you cannot prune them either.

When to contact the council about trees on their land

Despite causing annoyance to you, the council will only cut down a tree if it poses genuine danger or causes a legal nuisance (which is rarely the case). If a tree near your property looks unsafe, then you need to contact the council and raise your concerns rather than taking matters into your own hands.

While exact rules vary from council to council, Croydon Council lists the following signs of a tree that should be reported for further investigation:

• is completely or almost dead
• has recently lifted out of the ground
• has mushrooms or fungi growing from its roots, base or stem
• has a significant crack and holes on the main stem/branches

If a tree on council land is bothering you, unless the branches are overhanging your garden, keep those loppers in the shed and try speaking to the council.

Wondering how many daffodil bulbs you should plant together?

It’s officially time to start planting our daffodil bulbs for cheerful flowers next spring, but there’s a knack to achieving abundant-looking displays – and it’s all down to the number of bulbs you plant in one spot. Plant too little, and your garden border will look sparse – but overcrowding can stunt growth.

I made it my mission to track down the sweet spot: the ideal number of daffodil bulbs you should plant together. Here’s what the experts recommend.

What you'll need

Daffodils are among the easiest spring bulbs to grow in pots and garden borders, especially if you choose low-maintenance daffodil varieties. For the best displays, though, you’ll need to know how many daffodil bulbs you should plant together.

‘It’s best to plant daffodils in groups of at least six,’ advises Paul Parker from plants and bulbs specialists J. Parker’s. ‘This avoids the displays looking sparse.’

So, six daffodil bulbs is the sweet spot for fuller arrangements. But how many daffodil bulbs should we be aiming for overall?

‘When planting in borders, 25 to 30 bulbs will create an impressive selection of daffodils,’ says Paul. ‘If planting in groups, dig a trench instead of individual holes at least two to three times the depth of a bulb.’

Knowing how deep to plant daffodil bulbs is crucial if you want them to flower well, so Paul’s tip there is key. This year, I’m using the Kent & Stowe Hand Bulb Planter (which you can order for just £6.60 from Amazon) to make planting even easier. It has a handy measurement scale on the side, too.

You don’t have to be too particular about arranging the bulbs if you’re going for a more naturalistic look.

‘A simple trick for a more natural-looking display is to throw your bulbs and plant them where they land, instead of arranging them too neatly,’ adds B&Q’s horticulture expert, Mark Sage.

What about pots?

When it comes to planting daffodils in pots, you’ll need to be extra careful not to overcrowd the bulbs.

‘It really depends on the size of your container when looking at how many daffodil bulbs to plant together,’ says Paul. ‘As a general rule of thumb, daffodil bulbs should be planted at an appropriate depth for their size (two to three times the depth of the bulb), leaving about 5cm between each bulb to avoid overcrowding.’

So, it’s all down to how much container space you’re working with. As long as you leave Paul’s recommended distance between each bulb, they should produce a successful, abundant display when they burst into bloom next spring.

There are plenty of spring bulbs you can order in September for pink spring blooms, if you're planning a display in that colour scheme.

While many gardeners enjoy tending to the birds that visit their gardens, there is one bird in particular that doesn’t receive as warm a welcome. I’m talking about seagulls, and experts have revealed the best ways to deter these birds from your garden.

Seagulls’ habitats have traditionally been in coastal areas and on clifflines, but due to urbanisation, you’ll find them in urban areas now, too. Given that they are opportunistic scavengers, when you attempt to attract songbirds to your garden, you might find you’re attracting seagulls, too.

While we always advocate for wildlife gardens, seagulls can be messy and noisy, making them a less-than-ideal guest. So, I asked experts for the best way to deter them humanely. This is what they said.

How to humanely deter seagulls from a garden

‘There are six main species of gull in the UK, from the Herring Gull to Kittiwakes. In a garden, they might create noise, rip open and feed from rubbish, or nest on the sides of buildings. Often appearing in a flock, this can create a big disturbance for householders,’ comments Sophie Thorogood, technical training manager at Pelsis.

Seagulls go where food is. Full stop. So, the best form of deterrence is to ensure all potential food sites are secured. This is similar to how you might deter rats or deter foxes from a garden. You need to make sure your bins are secure, for example, as seagulls will shred through your bin bags to reach any potential food, so it’s worth using bin straps (£9.98, B&Q) to stop anything opening your bin lids.

‘Gulls will be attracted into gardens due to food availability and therefore, think of all food sources that could be attracting them. This mainly will include waste overflowing from bins, so make sure it is stored correctly, emptied regularly and don't leave food out for them to feed on,’ adds Sophie.

This doesn’t mean you should stop feeding the garden birds that already visit your garden. You just need to be a little more strategic as to how you feed them.

‘Seagulls also routinely feed on the ground, so I’d totally avoid dropping food on the lawn to remove this food source for them in their natural way of feeding. To ensure our smaller feathered friends can still feed, don’t stop feeding birds entirely by any means. Ensure smaller birds can feed without being overpowered by seagulls by using caged bird feeders with protective mesh covers to block larger birds,’ says James Ewens, bird specialist at Green Feathers.

‘These noisy visitors are at their most clamorous from May through July while raising their young. During these months, it’s best to simply let them be, waiting until they have moved on before putting long-term deterrents in place to prevent a repeat visit next year.

‘Remember that active gull nests enjoy legal protection during construction and occupancy. It is strictly illegal to obstruct access to an active nesting site without explicit authorisation under license.’

Deter seagulls from your garden

You should never attempt to harm seagulls in a bid to get rid of them. Instead, simply removing any food sources will make your garden less desireable.

If you want your lawn to look its best after this record-breaking summer of heat and drought (and of course you do), then experts say there's one mowing habit you should stop immediately. Can you guess what it is?

Yes, lawn care is very much at the top of our minds at the moment, largely because all of our grass looks so sad and crispy after all of that relentless dry weather. (There's a reason yours truly is waving goodbye to my lawn completely!) Still, while it can be tempting to try and get your grass looking perfectly neat with a close cut, mowing too short at this time of year could actually be doing more harm than good.

Think about it: after weeks of sunshine and limited rainfall, many lawns are already under pressure. Cutting the grass too low? That removes much of the leaf that the plant relies on to produce energy, while also exposing the soil to more direct sunlight, causing it to dry out even faster (a recipe for trouble).

The mowing habit experts say to stop this month

The good news is that it's a simple adjustment to your lawn care calendar is all it really takes to keep things looking their best; you just need to drop one mowing habit.

Rather than aiming for a freshly cropped finish, lawn experts recommend leaving your grass a little longer to help it cope with the lingering effects of summer heat and prepare for the cooler months ahead.

According to Morris Hankinson, Managing Director of Hopes Grove Nurseries, mowing too closely is one of the biggest mistakes gardeners can make towards the end of summer.

'At this time of year, cutting the grass too short will leave it stressed,' he says, 'and shorter grass has less leaf surface to photosynthesise, which means less shade for the soil, leading it to dry out and be significantly more stressed than other times of the year.'

'During a drought, lawns are already stressed enough and shouldn't need mowing at all,' he adds.

If your lawn has stopped growing during particularly dry conditions, it's often better to leave it alone altogether. Established grass naturally slows or even stops growing during drought as a survival mechanism, so mowing isn't always necessary until rainfall returns.

That being said, if the lawn does need a tidy-up, Morris says raising the mower blades is a simple way to reduce stress on the grass. 'If your lawn does need to be trimmed, make sure your mower blades are raised and leave the grass slightly longer,' he explains.

'A taller lawn helps retain moisture, protects the roots from heat and can make the grass more resilient during periods of drought. It also provides valuable habitat for insects and other garden wildlife.'

Morris adds, 'Leaving the lawn to grow longer could actually leave it healthier, greener and better prepared for the months ahead'.

Post-summer lawn care essentials

FAQs

While a freshly cut lawn may look satisfying, ditching that one mowing habit and resisting the urge to scalp it now can pay off in the long run. By simply raising your mower blades and only cutting when necessary, you'll help your lawn retain moisture, protect its roots and recover more quickly from the stresses of the summer we're all still reeling from.

Come autumn, that extra patience is likely to be rewarded in the form of greener, healthier grass that's ready for the growing season ahead. Hey, if that's not a reason to stick the mower back in the shed and relax, we don't know what is!

If slugs ravaging your garden is something that you begrudgingly accept, rather than continue to combat, it’s probably worth considering what you are planting - as some flowers are less tasty to slugs than others.

Every gardener will want to know ways to get rid of slugs naturally. These slimy pests can decimate plants and veg patches, leaving you with little to show for your hard work. But did you know that some plants naturally repel slugs?

Slugs dislike snapdragons' tough exterior, which makes them difficult to chew, making it a high-impact, colourful flower that you don't have to worry about being munched by slugs.

Why don't slugs like snapdragons?

If you’ve been toying with the thought of growing snapdragons, then isn’t the fact slug hate them a deciding factor? Or do you prefer the fact that snapdragons are one of the best plants for hay fever, or simply that they look like a plant straight from a fairy tale? Either way, snapdragons being naturally repellent to slugs is the icing on the cake.

‘Planting snapdragons does not actively repel or stop slugs, but they do not like to eat snapdragons. This is because mature snapdragon plants have a tough, fibrous texture that makes them harder to chew,’ says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture.

‘They also hold less water than other plants, so they do not offer as much hydration or have as much nutritional value to a slug. The plants do contain chemical compounds that can be unappealing or mildly toxic to slugs, but they are likely to only avoid the snapdragons while still eating other plants.’

If you're fed up with slugs eating your flowers, snapdragons are a stunning alternative you can choose instead that slugs will tend to avoid. While you won’t get rid of them completely, or stop them from attacking other plants, you can still achieve a beautiful floral display without worrying about it being destroyed.

‘I’d recommend them as part of a slug-resistant planting scheme rather than selling them as a natural slug repellent. If you have a garden where slugs repeatedly destroy bedding plants, choosing flowers they’re less interested in is more effective than spending the season trying to create barriers around vulnerable plants,’ says Dr Russell Sharp, founder of Eutrema.

‘Snapdragons are particularly useful because you’re not compromising on the look of the border. They flower for a long period, give you plenty of height and colour, and you’re choosing something that has a better chance of reaching maturity without being shredded overnight. I wouldn’t expect a row of snapdragons to create an invisible barrier that slugs refuse to cross, though. They can still move straight past them to something tastier. The real advantage is that you’re giving slugs fewer plants worth stopping for in the first place.

Where to buy snapdragons

• For rich red blooms: Antirrhinum majus 'Admiral Crimson', £4.49, Crocus
• For bold orange blooms: Antirrhinum majus 'Potomac Dark Orange' F1 - Seeds, £4.49, Thompson & Morgan
• For soft pink blooms: Antirrhinum majus 'Appleblossom', £3.29, Crocus

Snapdragons are beautiful, romantic blooms, and their slug-repellent nature makes the decison to include them in your borders even easier.

As much as I like hostas, they're not the plant I’d recommend for brightening up a shady garden – heucheras are even more reliable, and, truly, they’re a breathtaking foliage plant.

Whether you’re looking for frilly lime foliage or flame-coloured leaves, there really is a heuchera for every planting scheme (there are so many varieties to choose from). Plus, they’re generally slug- and snail-repellent plants, while hostas are a target for the slimy critters.

Here’s why experts recommend heucheras for shady gardens – and one or two varieties I've got my eye on!

What you'll need

Heucheras are available in a spectrum of colours, from deep purple to lime green, which is why they’re such brilliant plants to add to pots in September for instant colour. Many varieties have frilly foliage, providing texture as well as colour – and since they’re perennial, they’ll bounce back every year. Some varieties are evergreen in milder climates, offering winter interest in the garden, too.

Heuchera ‘Eternal Flame’, which you can order from Thompson & Morgan, looks exactly as you’d expect it to: the fiery golden foliage acts as an effective groundcover plant for suppressing weeds in garden borders, but it’s just as striking in a pot arrangement.

Television presenter David Domoney just dedicated an Instagram reel to heucheras, celebrating their value in the garden as shade-loving plants.

‘Here’s the beauty,’ he said. ‘Under that tree where you thought nothing would grow, heucheras will bring colour all year round with their foliage, and they also have spectacular little flowers as well, otherwise known as ‘Coral Bells’.’

I also spoke to Syon Park’s head gardener, Topher Martyn, who told me that heucheras make brilliant plants for small gardens.

‘These plants are all about their leaves, and plant breeders have given us a wide range of leaf colours which will brighten up a gloomy corner, making them ideal for a small garden,’ Topher said.

‘Heucheras are one of those all-round versatile plants, with the added benefit that they’ll put up with a degree of neglect (although they won’t want to dry out entirely).'

You don't have to banish hostas from your garden completely, though. Both have their merits in the garden and work well together – it's just that heucheras are less vulnerable to slugs and snails, and offer a broader spectrum of colour and texture.

'They're better suited to certain situations,' says Ross Dyke, horticulturist, founder of Get Children Growing, and host of The Plant Pod. 'The biggest advantage of heucheras is arguably their resistance to slug and snail damage. Hostas are famously attractive to slugs and snails, whereas heucheras are much less likely to end up covered in the characteristic holes and ragged edges.

'Heucheras also have the advantage of retaining their foliage for much of the year, whereas hostas are deciduous and die back in autumn. That makes heucheras particularly valuable if you're trying to keep a shady border looking interesting beyond the main growing season.'

Ross also mentioned that hostas are great if you want bold, architectural foliage that thrives in the shade, concluding, 'I would use the two together rather than treating them as rivals: heucheras bring long-lasting colour and slug resistance, while hostas provide larger leaves and a very different texture.'

Heucheras are beautiful all-rounders: they add colour to pots and borders, suppress weeds and manage to avoid the appetites of slugs and snails. Plus, they thrive in shady spots – so they're ideal for brightening those problem areas in the garden.

Garden experts have revealed four ways you can reuse old toilet roll tubes in your garden and make your garden more sustainable this autumn.

While you’re probably already recycling old toilet rolls, there are plenty of ways to recycle toilet rolls in a garden to save money and benefit your garden.

Sustainable gardening has been a huge garden trend, and using old toilet rolls is one of the most affordable ways to achieve this. So, without further ado, here’s how experts say you can effectively turn toilet trash into garden treasure.

1. Make a bee hotel

If you want to attract more bees to your garden, the good news is that you can use old loo rolls to craft a bee hotel, giving them somewhere safe to shelter.

‘Cardboard toilet roll tubes can be used alongside other recycled materials to create a bee hotel for your garden. Place toilet roll tubes inside of a larger, waterproof container, like a tin can or plastic milk bottle,' says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture.

'Stuff the hollow centres of the tubes with nesting materials, such as twigs, paper straws or reeds. The finished hotel should be hung in a sunny, sheltered area of your garden.'

2. Make seed starters

Toilet rolls make great DIY seed starters, as they are biodegradable and won’t damage your soil’s health once planted out. In fact, loo roll holders can also be composted in your garden.

‘Empty toilet rolls make good little pots for seedlings, especially for plants that don’t like having their roots disturbed too much when they’re moved. Stand the cardboard tubes upright in a tray, fill them with seed compost and sow as normal. The tube is deep enough to give young roots somewhere to grow, and when the seedling is ready to go outside you can plant the whole thing straight into the soil,’ says Dr Russell Sharp, founder of Eutrema.

‘The cardboard will gradually break down in the ground while the roots grow through it so there’s less handling at the point when the plant is still quite delicate. I particularly like this for things such as sweet peas or beans, which can quickly produce longer roots. Broad beans are the classic crop that gardeners have traditionally sown in toilet rolls because they develop long roots and don’t benefit from being disturbed.

‘Planting the whole tube into the ground helps the young plants establish without root damage, which can give autumn-sown broad beans a better chance of coping through winter. Just make sure the tube is damp before planting it out and bury the top edge below soil level. If dry cardboard is left sticking above the surface, it can draw moisture away from the compost around the seedling.’

3. Feed earthworms

I’ll bet this isn’t one you thought of. But you can use old toilet tubes to feed earthworms in your garden. This is a good idea because worms can help enhance soil fertility, aeration and water drainage - they’re a vital part of your garden’s ecosystem.

‘Toilet roll tubes can be used to feed earthworms in your garden because worms need a balanced diet of green waste and carbon. As cardboard is primarily made from wood fibres, this is a good source of carbon for worms that they can break down into castings for your garden,’ says Richard.

‘In worm bins or compost heaps, rotting food scraps can make the environment acidic. Adding cardboard, which is usually neutral or slightly alkaline, can aid with buffering or neutralising excess acidity to keep the environment hospitable for worms.’

4. Protect young plants

You can also use toilet roll holders to help protect young seedlings from pests when they’re first planted out in your garden.

‘You can also cut toilet rolls into shorter rings and place them around very young seedlings as a simple physical barrier. Push the bottom centimetre or two into the soil so the ring stays in place, leaving enough height above ground to protect the stem. It’s good for when you’ve just planted out tender young plants and want to give them a bit of protection,’ says Dr Russell.

‘The collar creates a clear boundary around a seedling that would otherwise be very easy to miss, especially in a busy vegetable bed. It won’t make the plant completely slug-proof, so I wouldn’t rely on it as your only defence, but it can make it harder for pests to reach the stem immediately and buys the seedling a little time to establish. The cardboard will eventually soften and break down, so you don’t have to remember to remove it later in the season.’

Next time you so your business, instead of putting your loo roll tube straight into the recycling bin, consider how it can benefit your garden instead.

If your neighbour's tree is towering over your garden, blocking sunlight or casting shade over your patio, it can easily become a source of friction. So you may be wondering: Can you ask your neighbour to reduce the height of their tree – and are they actually obliged to say yes?

When it comes to the rules around cutting your neighbour's trees, it can feel more complicated than it actually is. Depending on your situation, you might want to know whether you can prune your neighbour's tree, cut your neighbour's hedge, or even cut the roots of your neighbour's tree. But if it's specifically the height that's bothering you, you're in slightly different territory – with fewer rights than you might expect.

To clear things up, I spoke to a legal and gardening expert to find out where you stand when asking a neighbour to reduce the height of their tree, and how best to approach the conversation to avoid a full-blown dispute.

Can you ask your neighbour to reduce the height of their tree?

If a neighbour's tree has grown tall enough to block your sunlight, restrict your view, or is generally difficult to manage, there's nothing to stop you from asking them to trim its height.

But before you do take action, it's worth knowing where you stand from a legal perspective.

'In England and Wales, there is no general common law right to require a neighbour to reduce the height of a tree on their land,' explains Mustafa Sidki, litigation partner at law firm Thackray Williams.

That said, if a tree's roots or branches are causing physical damage to your property, or unreasonably interfering with your use of it, the situation can be different.

Laura Bradbury, head of ecommerce at Vonhaus, agrees that a polite request is always worth trying first, but sets expectations early.

'Homeowners can certainly speak to a neighbour if a tree has become difficult to manage, particularly where branches are heavily overhanging a garden or affecting how the outdoor space can be used,' she says. 'However, a neighbour will not normally be required to reduce a tree simply because it has become tall or is creating shade.'

How should you approach a neighbour about reducing the height of their tree?

Before going down any formal route, experts agree that it's worth having a chat first with your neighbour.

'Try to approach your neighbour with a specific concern rather than simply asking them to remove or drastically cut back the tree,' says Laura. 'Showing them where branches are overhanging, where you have noticed damage or what is causing the concern makes it much easier to discuss a practical solution.'

So, rather than approaching the conversation with a demand for the tree to be cut back, explain exactly what you're worried about - whether that's branches extending over your boundary, roots affecting the structure, or concerns about the tree's condition. 'Having a friendly conversation first can often avoid a relatively simple garden maintenance issue becoming a neighbour dispute.'

What happens if your neighbour is willing to reduce the tree but is concerned about the cost? Laura says who pays usually depends on the circumstances. If you're requesting it because it primarily benefits your garden, it could be worth offering to contribute towards the cost - potentially making it easier to reach an agreement.

And if you struggle to reach an agreement, Mustafa recommends considering mediation or negotiation as the next steps, before thinking about anything more official.

When does a neighbour's tree become a genuine problem?

'There is a difference between a tree being inconvenient and there being signs of a more serious problem,' Laura points out. Certain things, like your neighbour's tree dropping leaves in your garden or a blocked view, may be frustrating and among the garden features that can cause disputes, but that doesn't necessarily mean they're a legal issue.

'Homeowners should pay closer attention if there are signs of structural damage, large unstable branches, exposed or damaged roots, or noticeable changes to the tree following storms or strong winds,' Laura advises.

If any of that sounds familiar, as tempting as it might be, the one thing you shouldn't do is reach for the loppers, says Laura. 'If you suspect roots are affecting a wall, driveway or another structure, or you are concerned that the tree could be unsafe, avoid attempting major cutting yourself,' she warns. 'An experienced tree professional will be able to assess the condition of the tree and advise on the safest course of action.'

Legally, this distinction can be important. 'A homeowner may bring a civil claim in private nuisance if tree roots or branches cause physical damage to their property or unreasonably interfere with the use and enjoyment of land,' says Mustafa.

The rules are also different when it comes to qualifying high hedges, which are subject to a separate complaints process.

What should you check before work goes ahead?

Before any pruning happens - whether your neighbour does it or you're cutting back any overhanging branches - there are a few important checks to make.

'Before any work begins, it's worth checking whether the tree is protected by a Tree Preservation Order (TPO) or is within a conservation area, as restrictions may apply,' says Laura. 'You should also consider nesting birds and other wildlife, particularly if significant pruning is planned.'

For anything beyond light pruning, particularly on a large or mature tree, Laura recommends using an experienced professional rather than attempting to tackle it yourself. This is especially important if you're worried about unstable branches, roots or possible structural damage.

Shop essential tree pruning tools

FAQs

So, while you can absolutely ask your neighbour to reduce the height of their tree, generally they aren't obliged to agree simply because it's too tall, casts shade or affects your view. If you're concerned about damage or safety, it's worth getting professional advice rather than attempting any major pruning yourself.

In most cases, a friendly chat is the best place to start to agree on a practical approach to managing the tree.

Horticultural expert and Love You Garden presenter, David Domoney, has just given us another brilliant bulb planting hack, and it’s the perfect way to keep your plant pots interesting all spring.

If you’re wondering how to plant your bulbs in pots this autumn, you’ll want to watch the television presenter’s latest Instagram reel. It combines a few different types of spring bulbs (daffodils, tulips, crocuses and muscari), ensuring the plant pot stays in flower all spring.

Here’s why David’s bulb planting idea is ideal for beautiful spring pot arrangements.

September marks the start of bulb-planting season, and it can be tempting to plant a mix of different flower bulbs in a random order. David says we can be more methodical about planting our bulbs in pots, though – you’ll just need to divide your pot up into four imaginary quarters.

‘Here’s a great tip when you’re planting your bulbs: plant them in quarters,’ said David in one of his most recent Instagram reels.

Pointing to each segment of the plant pot, David said, ‘Crocus here, daffodils, then muscari, then tulips.’

David’s bulb planting hack isn’t just about having a mix of blooms in one pot – it’s about ensuring that there’s always something flowering when spring arrives.

‘Because they flower at different times, you can twist the container, so you’re always looking at the plant that is in flower at that time,’ David explained.

You’ll just need some low-maintenance daffodil bulbs, like these ‘Tête-à-tête’ bulbs from Crocus, and then some muscari, crocuses and tulip bulbs, too (personally, I’ve got my eye on Tulip 'Angelique' from Thompson & Morgan). When one stops flowering, the next should be coming into bloom – so all you need to do, as David said, is rotate your pot as the season progresses.

‘It’s such a simple garden design trick, but it can create a changing display throughout the spring,’ continued David in the caption. ‘[It’s] perfect for a pot beside a doorway, patio or window.’

We haven’t quite reached the best time to plant tulip bulbs yet, so it’s worth holding off on those for a little while longer – but there are plenty other spring bulbs you can order in the meantime.

Of course, you’ll also need to follow general pot-planting principles to ensure your spring bulbs flower successfully.

‘Don’t forget good drainage,’ David added in the Instagram caption. ‘Make sure your container has drainage holes and avoid letting the compost become waterlogged over winter.’

Some pot feet like these Verve Laleh Terracotta Pot Feet from B&Q are a brilliant way of preventing your potted plants from sitting soggy over the colder months.

What you'll need

And that's it! Plant daffodil, crocus, tulip and muscari bulbs in four corners of a pot, and you'll enjoy a flowering display all spring.

Perennials are plants that keep returning to bloom for more than two years. They have strong, deep root systems and, depending on conditions, they generally go dormant in cold weather and flower again when things warm up. Varieties include hellebores, sedum, asters, foxgloves, geums, iris, lupins, poppies and hardy geraniums.

To keep the cycle moving, there are a few important jobs to do to help them look healthy and full of vitality when they emerge again in spring.

We spoke to our gardening experts to find out what these jobs are.

1. Lift and divide

'Lift and divide any clumps that are congested or flowering less well; hardy geraniums, asters, rudbeckia, heleniums and ornamental grasses all respond well now while the soil is still warm and moist,' advises Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

Once you've lifted them up, replant the divisions straight away, adds Julian. 'Water them in, and they’ll settle before winter and come away strongly in spring.'

Hellebores are a great variety to consider; for a rich, dramatic look, check out the double Ellen red oriental hellebore, £15.99 from Gardening Express. Or, if you prefer a pinky tone, there's Walberton's Rosemary, from £15.99 at Crocus.

2. Deadhead and prune

'Deadhead anything still flowering to keep the display going, but leave seedheads and ornamental grasses standing for winter interest and wildlife,' suggests Julian.

Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director at LBS Horticulture, says pruning is worthwhile too: 'Cut back dead plant stems to stop plants from producing seeds and instead redirect the energy into flowering the following year. Pruning will also help to remove old plant material, meaning that air and light can reach new shoots.'

Rudbeckia has been rather popular recently with its big droopy petals and bold colours. Bag some for your garden – we love the cherry brandy variety, from £9.99 at J. Parkers, or opt for the bright yellow Goldsturm variety that's robust with its daisy-like flowers and dark centres, from £7.99 at Crocus.

Shopping essentials for perennial jobs

3. Improve the soil

Autumn is the perfect time to improve your soil, as it can be depleted after our heatwaves.

'Add a layer of organic compost around your plants; this will break down over autumn and winter to add nutrients into the soil,' says Richard. 'Plants that are situated in richer soil survive colder months better, and can sometimes return quicker in spring.'

A good organic compost is Miracle-Gro's performance organics peat-free multi-purpose compost, 10 litres for £5.50, B&Q.

Shop this variety at Thompson & Morgan – anemone Nemorosa, from £12.99. Plant en masse for a beautiful spring display.

4. Plant bulbs and sow seeds

'Plant spring bulbs and early-flowering perennials such as hellebores, primroses, pulmonaria and perennial wallflowers to give you colour from late winter onwards,' says Julian.

You can buy foxgloves now for flowering from May to the end of July next year. We like Dobies Dalamation mixed variety, from £7.99 for 6 plug plants, that will add colour and height to your borders.

Hardy annuals are perfect for seed sowing right now; varieties like larkspur, calendula and cornflowers are good to get going this month. You can currently get larkspur 'T&M Improved's seeds in a range of colours for 99p for a packet of 400 seeds, Thompson & Morgan.

5. Mulch

Mulching is a must-do, as Richard explains, 'Mulching plants will stop weeds from germinating and insulate the plant roots from cold weather. The mulch will also break down over time to add nutrients to the soil.'

Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation, agrees, 'Over the summer months your plants will have heavily depleted the nutrients in the soil, and this will have been exacerbated by the heatwaves we have experienced which will have both sped up the breakdown of organic matter whilst at the same time stalled microbial activity which is responsible for helping convert organic matter into available nutrients.'

Adding a rich layer of mulch will release vital nutrients and minerals back into the soil ready for spring, Lucie adds. 'It will also help to trap in any residual heat so that any bulbs you have planted or seeds that have been sown will have the perfect environment to produce healthy, strong root structures to support healthy spring growth and bountiful blooms. '

You can create your own mulch from your compost bin, or rotted down manure and leaves. If you'd rather buy for ease, then B&Q's dark brown bark chippings are a good buy, £14 for 50 litres.

With September here, it's time to follow our top tips, and you'll be so happy when your perennials emerge in spring. To save a bit of money if you want to plant new varieties, sow some perennial seeds.

Gardening experts have revealed five autumn plants that thrive on neglect for a low-maintenance seasonal garden filled with colour and texture.

If you’re a bit of a lazy gardener, or simply too busy to spend hours tending delicate plants, a low-maintenance garden idea (that works) is like gold dust. Luckily for you, these plant recommendations are all tough and easy to care for - you can pretty much leave them to do their thing.

If you want a beautiful autumn garden without the stress of cultivating one, here are the five plants that thrive on neglect that gardeners recommend.

1. Sedums

First on the list are sedums, a colourful perennial that thrives on neglect. Available in an array of colours, not only do these plants require minimal care, but they are also excellent for attracting bees and butterflies to your garden.

‘If you're the sort of gardener who occasionally forgets to water or simply doesn't have hours to spend outside, sedum is a brilliant choice. Its thick, fleshy leaves store water, so it copes surprisingly well during dry spells, and it doesn't need rich soil or regular feeding to perform well,’ says Luke Newnes, gardening expert for Hillarys.

‘Planting it now gives the roots a chance to settle into still-warm soil before winter, and next year you'll be rewarded with masses of late-season flowers that pollinators absolutely love.’

Where to buy Sedums

• Hardy Succulent Sedum Collection, £19.99, Gardening Express
• Sedum Seduction Pink, £10.99, B&Q
• Sedum telephium 'Dark Magic', £29.99, Thompson & Morgan

2. Japanese Anemones

If you want flowers from August through autumn, Japanese Anemones are an excellent choice. These long-flowering blooms are ideal for filling in sparse borders and bringing much-needed colour to autumn gardens once established.

‘Japanese anemones quietly get on with the job year after year. Once established, they’ll return reliably every autumn with very little input, gradually forming larger clumps that produce elegant blooms just as many other plants are fading,’ says Charlotte McGrattan, hardy nursery stock buyer at Hillier Garden Centres.

‘They need very little watering once fully established, are generally trouble-free and don’t require regular feeding or pruning, making them perfect for gardeners who prefer a more hands-off approach.’

Where to buy Japanese Anemones

• Anemone × hybrida 'Honorine Jobert', £13.99, Crocus
• Anemone x hybrida 'September Charm', £9.99
• Anemone × hybrida 'Königin Charlotte', £18.99, Crocus

3. Hardy Geraniums

Who doesn’t love a geranium to brighten a garden, patio or even balcony? Offering vibrant colour and pretty blooms, growing geraniums should be on every low-maintenance gardener's to-do list.

‘I'd recommend hardy geraniums to almost anyone looking for a low-effort garden. They're incredibly forgiving, happy in a range of conditions and form dense mounds of foliage that help suppress weeds naturally. Once they're settled in, they're largely self-sufficient and don't need constant watering or feeding. Plant them in autumn, and they'll spend the cooler months establishing strong roots, which means less work and better growth next spring,’ says Luke.

Where to buy Hardy Geraniums

• Geranium Hardy Double Trio, £14.99, Thompson & Morgan
• Hardy Magenta Geranium sanguineum Ground Cover Plant, £14.99, B&Q
• YouGarden Geranium Parade plug plants x 12, £14.88, QVC

4. Heuchera

Heuchera is one of the best ground cover plants for suppressing weeds, as well as adding colour to your garden - so there’s plenty of reasons for planting heuchera, low-maintenance aside.

‘Heucheras are one of the easiest plants to grow, with vibrant foliage that provides colour long after their summer flowers have faded. While spent flower stems can be removed for a tidier appearance, they’re far less demanding than many flowering perennials, typically needing little more than the occasional tidy-up of old leaves,’ says Charlotte.

‘They thrive in partial or dappled shade whilst some cultivars can cope well with full sun. Once fully established, many heucheras continue performing without frequent watering or feeding.’

Where to buy Heuchera

• Heuchera Palace Purple, £15.97
• Marshalls Garden Heuchera Seeds 'Melting Fire' - 25 Seeds, £5.49, Argos
• Heuchera Caramel Coral Bells 9cm Pot Perennial Plant, £18.99, B&Q

5. Bergenia

Bergenia is a shade-loving perennial, making it a great choice for gardens that don’t get a lot of sunshine. It’s also incredibly hardy, making it a pretty much foolproof choice for beginner gardeners.

‘Bergenia is one of the toughest garden plants you can buy and often looks after itself once it's in the ground. It copes well with shade, can handle periods of drought and keeps its attractive evergreen leaves throughout the year, so there's always something to look at in the garden,’ says Luke.

‘For busy people who want reliable colour and structure without lots of maintenance, it's hard to beat. Planting now allows roots to establish before winter, helping it to settle in quickly.’

Where to buy Bergenia

• Bergenia Cordifolia, £18.99, Dobies
• Bergenia Vintage Rose - Elephant's ear, £9.99, Gardening Express
• Bergenia cordifolia purpurascens - Elephant's Ears, £12.95, Gardening Express

These gorgeous plants will make brighten your garden with minimal effort from you.

Early autumn gives us the green light to plant spring bulbs like daffodils and crocuses – but can you plant tulip bulbs in September?

Well, the rules for tulips are slightly different. The best time to plant tulip bulbs is generally mid- to late autumn, after the weather cools down. Since we’re on the climbdown from a summer of heatwaves, the ground is still far too warm – and planting too early can have serious drawbacks for your bulbs.

Wondering why September is too early to plant tulip bulbs? I spoke to the experts to find out.

So, can you plant tulip bulbs in September? Although it's the ideal time to starting planting other spring bulbs, we’re a little ahead of the ideal planting window for tulips. As a general rule, it’s best to wait until at least the middle of autumn.

‘Tulips are generally best planted in mid- to late autumn, once temperatures have cooled but while the soil is still workable,’ says Paul Parker from plants and bulbs specialist J. Parker’s.

‘So, during mild Septembers, it may not be the optimum conditions for planting tulips.’

This September is especially mild, since we’re winding down from a very hot summer – so it’s even more important that you hold off planting this month.

‘Planting later can help avoid some of the problems associated with warm, damp conditions and gives bulbs the cool period they need for strong spring growth,’ explains Paul.

Most notably, there’s the risk of tulip fire disease. It’s most commonly associated with planting your tulip bulbs too early.

‘The disease can cause distorted leaves and brown spotting, and spreads particularly readily in damp, humid conditions,’ warns Paul. ‘To reduce the risk of this, it’s best to hold out until the temperature drops in mid-autumn before planting tulips.’

Planting your tulip bulbs at the right depth will also determine how well your bulbs perform.

‘In most of the UK, September is probably a bit on the early side to plant tulips,’ agrees Topher Martyn, head gardener at Syon Park. ‘It is, however, the perfect time to look through catalogues or to visit your garden centre and decide what you want to grow.’

There are plenty of bulbs you can order in September for pretty pink spring blooms in 2027, and a spectrum of other colours to suit any other garden planting scheme you have in mind, too. I’ve got my eye on ‘Tulip ‘Dreamer’, which you can order from Thompson & Morgan.

Storage is key – if you’re ordering your tulip bulbs now, you’ll need to make sure they’re sitting comfortably until it’s time to plant them.

‘If you've bought your bulbs early, don't leave them in their packaging for months,’ advises Ross Dyke, horticulturist, founder of Get Children Growing, and host of The Plant Pod. ‘Keep them somewhere cool and dry and plant them when appropriate.’

Bulb planting essentials

For when you *can* plant your tulip bulbs!

Hold off on planting your tulip bulbs until mid-autumn at the very earliest if you want successful spring displays.

Can my neighbour build a shed against my fence? You wouldn’t be the first to ask – but the answer isn’t exactly straightforward.

Sheds can quickly become garden features that cause neighbour disputes, especially when they sit close to your garden’s boundary. Even if it's close to your side, a shed that sits within the bounds of your neighbour’s own garden is generally considered acceptable by law – but there are a few exceptions, as well as height rules they’ll need to follow.

Below, I’ve explored whether or not your neighbour can build a shed against your fence – and the three rules they’ll need to follow if they’re building it within two metres of your garden’s boundary.

So, can a neighbour build a shed against your fence? It might feel as though it’s infringing on your space, but the position itself isn’t classed as an offence. It’s all down to its height, roof design, and whether or not your area is listed or protected.

‘Permitted development rights under Class E of the Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (England) let homeowners put up garden outbuildings without planning permission, provided they stay within specific permitted development criteria,’ says Andrew Boast, property expert at SAM Conveyancing. ‘So legally, your neighbour doesn’t need to ask your permission or even tell you before they build right up to the boundary line.’

Andrew notes that there are exceptions, though – and if either your property or your neighbour’s property meets certain criteria, they’ll need formal planning permission first.

‘If either property is listed or is in a conservation area, national park or Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), those automatic rights disappear, in which case different planning rules can apply, and formal permission becomes mandatory regardless of how small the shed is,’ Andrew explains.

If your neighbour is planning to build their shed within two metres of your fence or garden boundary, they’ll need to follow a few extra rules (even under permitted development).

1. Height

There are rules around how high a garden fence can be, and the same applies to a shed that sits close to your fence.

'In England, if an outbuilding is within two metres of the boundary, it will generally need to be no more than 2.5 metres high if the owner wants to rely on permitted development rights,' says Sarah Dodd, founder and CEO of Tree Law.

That’s why it’s best to go for a shed that's under 2.5 metres tall, like this Mercia Woodsman Shiplap 8x4 ft Pent Shed from B&Q. If you notice that your neighbour is beginning to build a shed that’s too tall and within two metres of your fence, Andrew recommends taking dated photos from your side of the boundary and making a note of any measurements you can safely take.

‘That timeline matters a great deal if things escalate,’ he says. ‘Plus, it’s much easier to sort things out informally while the shed is still a frame than after the roof, guttering and finishing touches are all in place.’

As with any garden dispute, it’s best to speak to your neighbour before pursuing a legal path. Andrew says most people simply might not know the rules exist!

2. Roof design

Your neighbour’s shed roof design matters if it’s built within two metres of your fence, too. More specifically, it’s about the way it manages rainfall.

‘The neighbour must manage rainwater on their own land,’ says Andrew. ‘Heavy rain running off an angled shed roof directly onto your land can saturate the soil, rotting your fence posts and potentially affecting the structural integrity of your garden walls or patios.’

Andrew says rainwater runoff onto your property from a poorly designed shed can be considered a civil nuisance, and so can the fence wood rot that can result from a solid structure sitting flush against a fence (if the rainwater becomes trapped in the tiny gap between the two).

They’ll also need to make sure that no part of the shed and its fixings cross over into your garden.

‘Your boundary is treated by UK property law as a vertical plane extending straight up into the sky,’ explains Andrew. ‘Even if the base of a neighbour’s shed is on their land, their roof eaves, guttering or decorative trims cannot cross over that boundary. If they do, it constitutes a civil trespass.’

Boundary rules like these are why you can’t prune your neighbour’s tree on their side of the fence (or keep the clippings from your side of the fence without their permission!).

3. Light

A neighbour’s tree blocking your sunlight is one thing, but what happens if an encroaching shed starts shadowing your space?

‘While a shed under 2.5 metres rarely breaches formal ‘Right to Light’ rules, if it blocks light to a window in a habitable room that has enjoyed uninterrupted light for over 20 years, a prescription claim can arise under civil law,’ says Andrew.

If your neighbour breaks any of these rules and a polite, informal chat with them doesn’t change anything, Andrew says you can report it to your council’s planning enforcement team for free.

‘They can investigate and, where appropriate, issue an enforcement notice requiring the work to be altered or removed, although this can take around eight to twelve weeks,’ Andrew explains.

‘For civil issues, such as guttering crossing the boundary, water damage, or a long-standing right to light, you’ll likely need a solicitor. This can take six to twelve months and cost around £1,500 to £10,000 or more if the matter reaches the stage of a court injunction.

‘Whatever happens, don’t take matters into your own hands by cutting, damaging or painting your neighbour’s shed. Even if it is encroaching onto your land, that could leave you facing a criminal damage claim instead.’

Where to buy sheds

If your neighbour builds a shed within 2.5 metres of your fence and it breaks any of the above rules, it's worth having a friendly chat with them first.

With summer coming to an end, there are plenty of jobs to be getting on with in the garden right now. And one task worth tackling before it gets too cold is overcrowded beds and borders.

Separating congested plants will help to rejuvenate older plants, free up growing space and give you new plants that can be replanted elsewhere, so knowing which clump-forming perennials will benefit from dividing in September and how best to do it is key.

‘It’s always best to separate plants in early September to give them time to establish before any hard frost hits,’ says Craig Wilson, co-founder and gardening expert at Gardeners Dream. ‘There are a few signs to watch out for that mean your perennials will need to be separated. For instance, if the plant is growing fewer or smaller blooms, beginning to look overcrowded, or the plant is looking bare from the middle, then you need to think about dividing perennials like these now.’

Find out which perennials will benefit from being divided below.

1. Daylilies

‘Daylilies are prone to becoming congested, which results in reduced flowering, so they will benefit from dividing in September,’ says David Denyer, flower and garden expert at eflorist. ‘To divide, lift the clump carefully and separate the individual fans by hand or with a sharp knife. Make sure that each division has a good section of roots attached. Replant as soon as possible and keep the soil moist while the plants establish.’

‘Rather than dividing everything on a set schedule, I’d first assess how the plant is performing,’ says Matt J Adams, founder and lead gardener at The Relentless Gardener. ‘If it is healthy and flowering well, there is usually no need to disturb it and sacrifice late-season colour when the plant can be divided once flowering has finished.

‘But for clumps that are becoming overcrowded or losing vigour, September can provide a good opportunity to lift, divide and re-establish them before winter.’

Where to buy daylilies:

• Gardeners Dream: Enjoy the bold orange tones of these Hemerocallis 'Orange' daylilies, £16.78.
• Primrose: Or go for these dramatic purple Hemerocallis Olive Bailey Langdon Daylily, £16.80.

2. Hostas

‘Hostas form dense root clumps that can be divided every four to five years when overcrowded,’ says Chris Bonnet, founder of Gardening Express. ‘Once separated, replant them in partial shade.’

‘Hostas are easy to divide once their foliage starts to die back,’ advises David. ‘Don’t be afraid to dig up the entire clump and use a sharp spade or knife to separate it into smaller sections. Try to make sure each division has a healthy portion of roots and several shoots, then replant at the same depth as before and water thoroughly.’

‘When dividing perennials, it’s best to water plants thoroughly before lifting them, ideally the day before,’ suggests Matt. ‘This makes the soil easier to work and reduces the amount of stress placed on the plant. And have everything ready before you start – a garden fork, sharp spade or clean knife, gloves and somewhere prepared to replant the divisions.’

‘Dig around the outside of the clump with a fork, keeping slightly further away from the crown than you think you need to. Work around the plant and gently lever it from the ground rather than pulling hard on the stems.’

‘Once it is lifted, remove some of the loose soil so you can see how the roots and shoots are arranged. This is important because you want every new section to have a healthy piece of crown and a good amount of roots.’

Where to buy hostas:

• Thompson & Morgan: Try this assorted Hosta Collection, from £9.99.
• Gardeners Dream: Stunning with its variegated leaves, try this Hosta 'Wide Brim, £9.58.

Shop these useful garden tools

3. Cone flowers

‘Coneflowers (or echinacea) benefit from being divided when mature clumps become crowded or lose vigour,' advises Chris. 'Lift and split the roots gently, then replant promptly in a sunny garden border and well-drained soil.'

‘How you split a clump depends on the plant,’ says Matt. ‘Smaller, fibrous-rooted clumps can often be teased apart by hand, whereas a large, established clump may need two garden forks placed back-to-back and used as levers. For particularly tough rootballs, a sharp spade or knife will make a much cleaner cut.’

‘Don’t be afraid of making a decisive cut – repeatedly hacking at a rootball can cause more damage than one clean division. I also wouldn’t try to make dozens of tiny plants. Larger, healthy divisions with several shoots and a strong root system will generally establish much more quickly than very small pieces,' adds Matt. 'If the centre of an old clump has become woody, weak or dead, discard that section and concentrate on the vigorous outer portions.’

Where to buy coneflowers:

• Crocus: Go for the hot orange tones of this Echinacea 'Flame Thrower', £12.79.
• Gardening Express: Or go pink with this Echinacea purpurea Magnus - Compact Purple Cone Flower, £12.99.

4. Shasta daisies

‘Shasta daisies can become congested after a few years, so divide them every two to three years to encourage growth, better flowering and gain extra perennial plants for free,' says Chris.

‘Replanting is just as important as dividing,’ advises Matt. ‘Try to replant the divisions as quickly as possible so that the roots don’t have an opportunity to dry out. Prepare the new planting hole first, making it wide enough to accommodate the roots naturally rather than forcing them into a small space. To help the roots re-establish, it’s always best to add some bonemeal to the hole as well to strengthen roots for better chances of survival during spring and summer.'

'Plant each division at roughly the same depth as it was growing originally,’ adds Matt. 'The crown should not be buried deeply, as this can lead to rotting and poor growth. Firm the soil gently around the roots and then give the plant a thorough watering.’

Where to buy shasta daisies:

• J. Parker's: Enjoy masses of blooms with these Leucanthemum x superbum 'Silver Princess', from £7.99.
• Thompson & Morgan: Or go for this frilly petalled variety Leucanthemum 'Crazy Daisy', from £7.99.

5. Asters

‘Asters can become overcrowded over time, so divide established clumps every few years to help them grow well,’ suggests Chris. ‘September is a good time to separate and replant the healthiest sections.’

‘Good aftercare is just as important as the division itself,’ advises Matt. ‘Keep newly planted sections consistently moist during dry spells while they establish, and once they are settled, give them the nutrients they need to support healthy roots, shoots and flowering. A liquid feed can be an easy way to maintain plants through the growing season without overcomplicating your feeding routine.’

‘For flowering plants, I use Blooms Booster All-Purpose Liquid Plant Feed with Seaweed, from £9.50, from The Relentless Gardener, as part of that approach. It is formulated with higher potassium to support flower growth while keeping nitrogen lower to avoid putting too much emphasis on foliage. It also contains 20% liquid seaweed and can be applied every three to four weeks, making it a simple option for keeping flowering plants fed through the season.'

‘A light mulch of well-rotted garden compost around, but not directly against, the crown can also help retain moisture and improve the soil.’

Where to buy asters:

• Amazon: Enjoy a variety of colourful plants with this Aster Perennial set, £19.99.
• Primrose: Super-pretty, try this Aster × Frikartii Mönch | Michaelmas Daisy, £4.49.

6. Black-eyed susans

‘Black-eyed Susans are vigorous spreaders and may need dividing every three to four years to prevent overcrowding,’ says Chris. ‘Split established clumps and replant with plenty of space in flower beds to thrive.’

‘Black-eyed Susans (or rudbeckias) will need dividing every few years,’ advises David. ‘When lifting, be sure to keep as much of the root system intact as possible before separating into smaller sections. Have some well-prepared soil ready to replant them in and water them thoroughly to encourage strong root development.’

Where to buy black-eyed susans:

• B&Q: Go for these sunny yellow Rudbeckia Goldsturm - Black-eyed Susan x 3, £25.99.
• Gardeners Dream: Or try this bold alternative Rudbeckia 'Little Goldstar', from £7.68 for a 9cm pot.

7. Hardy geraniums

‘Hardy geraniums can quickly form large clumps, so dig around the plant and lift it from the soil so you can gently tease the roots apart,’ advises David. ‘Sometimes the root ball can be dense, if so, use a sharp spade to divide it into manageable sections.’

‘When dividing plants, choose a cool, cloudy day if possible and avoid dividing during particularly hot or dry weather,’ says Matt. ‘Don’t work on soil that is waterlogged either. If September is exceptionally wet, it’s better to wait until conditions improve or postpone the job until spring.’

‘It’s also worth remembering that not every perennial wants to be divided at the same time. Summer-flowering herbaceous perennials, like salvias, are often good candidates for autumn division, while some spring-flowering plants are better divided after flowering. And if something is still looking fantastic in September, there is no need to disturb it simply because the calendar says so,’ adds Matt.

‘Done at the right time, division is one of the simplest ways to give an ageing perennial a new lease of life. You get a healthier, more vigorous plant, prevent overcrowding and potentially turn one established clump into several – all without spending another penny - so a great budget garden idea.’

Where to buy hardy geraniums:

• Gardening Express: Fill your borders with these easy to grow Geranium Rozanne - 'Jolly Bee' Hardy Geranium, from £6.97.
• Thompson & Morgan: Or enjoy a variety of different plants with this Geranium Hardy Mix, from £14.99.

8. Bearded irises

‘Bearded irises benefit a lot from regular division as their rhizomes become congested,’ says David. ‘To do this, carefully lift the plant and separate healthy rhizomes, you can discard any damaged or diseased sections. Replant the healthy pieces so that the rhizomes sit close to the soil surface rather than being buried deeply.’

'When dividing any plant, always use a clean, sharp spade or knife to make clean cuts and don’t make divisions too small. Larger, healthy sections will generally establish more quickly and give you a stronger plant the following year,’ adds David.

Where to buy bearded iris:

• Crocus: In pink and purple tones that look super-pretty, try this Iris 'Burgermeister' bearded iris, from £7.99.
• Suttons: Or go for the deep burgundy colour of this Iris 'Pass the Wine' (Re-Blooming) bearded iris, from £9.99.

So now is the time to think about dividing congested perennials to keep them healthy and gain new plants in the process.

Wondering whether you can plant allium bulbs in September? Preparations for spring start sooner than you'd expect;

The best time to plant allium bulbs can be tricky to pin down, because the timings vary between spring flowers. According to experts, though, the ideal planting window is wider than you’d think – and there’s never been a better time to start shopping for bulbs.

So, can you plant allium bulbs in September? Here’s what you need to know.

What you'll need

The best time to plant bulbs for spring very much depends on the flower. Some, like daffodils, can be planted as soon as September arrives – but others, like tulips, are best kept away until November.

Can you plant alliums in September, though? I’ve been wondering it myself, and as it turns out, we do have the green light for getting the bulbs in the ground this month.

‘For anyone wanting a head start on next year’s colour, this is when planting your spring bulbs should be high on the list,’ says B&Q’s horticulture expert, Mark Sage. ‘Prioritise daffodils, crocuses and alliums which can be planted now.’

I’ve had my eye on this award-winning allium collection from Crocus, which includes five different varieties with stunning architectural flower heads.

It’s actually a brilliant time to plant allium bulbs, since they benefit from a head start before winter arrives.

‘September is the perfect month to plant allium bulbs,’ says Charlotte Daubney, bulb expert at Taylors Bulbs. ‘Planting between September and November allows the soil to cool below 15 degrees, giving the bulbs plenty of time to establish good roots before the first frosts arrive.'

You can also plant alliums in pots this month, especially if you choose compact varieties like the white-bloomed Allium amplectens 'Graceful Beauty' (the bulbs are available to order from Thompson & Morgan). It only grows up to 30cm tall, so it;s perfectly suited to container life.

If you want them to reach their full flowering potential, you'll need to know how deep to plant your allium bulbs. You can buy bulb planters like this Kent & Stowe Hand Bulb Planter from Amazon, which includes a measurement scale on the side.

As Mark mentioned, you can plant daffodil bulbs in September, too – and if effortless displays are your kind of thing, there are plenty of low-maintenance daffodil varieties to choose from, like Narcissus 'February Gold' from Thompson & Morgan.

So, you can plant alliums in September. Time to start browsing for bulbs!

Homeowners should be on the lookout for tipsy wasps this month, pest experts have warned.

You may think that getting rid of wasps is solely a summer issue. However, late summer and early September are a prime time for ‘tipsy wasps’; intoxicated worker wasps that have essentially got drunk on fermented fruit that has dropped from trees.

Like a lot of drunks, tipsy wasps can sometimes be more aggressive than usual. So, I asked experts for ways to deter wasps, as well as what causes the tipsy wasp phenomenon in the first place. This is what they said.

What are tipsy wasps?

At the end of summer, a wasp’s colony dies down, and worker wasps start looking for food. Often this is fermented fruit that has started dropping from the best fruit trees, and it is this fruit that makes the wasps ‘tipsy’.

‘You can encounter ‘tipsy’ wasps during late summer and into early autumn. This is partly because, by this point in the season, the queen has stopped laying eggs, meaning there are fewer larvae for worker wasps to feed,’ explains Daniel Steward, managing director at Shield Pest Control.

'Normally, the larvae produce a sugary substance that the workers feed on, so when there are fewer larvae, the workers have to seek out other sources of sugar

‘At this time of year, there is also plenty of fallen fruit, such as apples and pears, left on the ground to ripen and rot. The sugars in this fruit can ferment and produce alcohol. Worker wasps, with their increased appetite for sugar, may feed on this fermented fruit and can appear intoxicated, sometimes flying erratically or seeming disoriented.’

This is also why you are more likely to have wasps buzzing around you in pub gardens, outside cafe seating and picnics, as worker wasps search for sugary food

Do tipsy wasps sting more?

While wasps during this time of year may be a little more aggressive than usual as they seek food, they are not out with the intention to sting you. The alcohol makes their behaviour more erratic, but this doesn't necessarily mean they are more likely to sting you unprovoked.

‘Wasps don't generally go looking for people to sting. They sting when they feel threatened or when they're defending their nest,’ explains Natalie Bungay, head of technical at British Pest Control Association.

‘However, at this time of year they're spending much more time searching for sugary food, which brings them into closer contact with people. That means there are simply more opportunities for an unpleasant encounter. So rather than thinking of late-summer wasps as suddenly becoming aggressive, it's better to remember that they're hungry, persistent and much more likely to be sharing your lunch.’

One thing Natalie says is important to remember is that you should avoid swatting wasps that come near you.

‘Sudden movements can make it feel threatened. Move away calmly and give it space,’ she says.

‘Keep sweet food and drinks covered when you're outside, and be particularly careful with cans and bottles as a wasp can crawl inside without you noticing. Clearing away fallen or rotting fruit from areas where people spend time can also help.

‘If you find a nest, don't disturb it. A nest in a quiet location can often simply be left alone, but if it's somewhere people regularly pass, seek advice from a professional pest controller.

‘Most wasp stings are painful rather than dangerous, but some people can have a severe allergic reaction. If you suspect anaphylaxis, call 999 immediately.’

Get rid of wasps

If you are concerned about wasps in your home or garden, you should contact a pest control experts (that is British Pest Control Association (BCPA) approved) for help and avice.

Sprinkling cinnamon on your lawn sounds, on paper, like a recipe for disaster – albeit a recipe that, at the very least, will mean your garden has that same spicy scent that comes hand-in-hand with a chai latte.

Here's the thing, though: if your grass has started looking a little worse for wear, it could be one of those quirky lawn care hacks that's well worth trying. Cinnamon, after all, contains natural antifungal and antimicrobial compounds, which means it may have a role to play when you're dealing with certain lawn diseases or trying to protect newly sown grass.

Could a light dusting be what you need, then, to give your grass a helping hand? As ever, there is a right way and a wrong way to go about it...

How sprinkling cinnamon on your lawn can make it healthier

According to Morris Hankinson, Managing Director of Hopes Grove Nurseries, cinnamon's natural properties mean it could be useful when dealing with fungal problems.

'Cinnamon contains natural anti-fungal compounds which can help suppress some fungal growth in the garden and could be useful when dealing with patches of lawn affected by diseases,' he says.

For anyone who spots a suspicious patch of grass, Morris says a dash of cinnamon could be well worth experimenting with. And he really does mean a dash; the trick is, rather than heavily coating the lawn, just applying a very light dusting directly to affected areas.

Matt J Adams, founder and lead gardener at The Relentless Gardener, agrees that cinnamon can have a useful role in lawn care; indeed, if you have noticed ants or other unwanted insects gathering in a particular area, he recommends combining cinnamon with compost before applying it to the affected patch.

What you will need

'If you're dealing with an area of lawn affected by ants or other insects, try mixing 1 to 5 tablespoons of cinnamon with 5 litres of compost (we recommend Westland's John Innes blend, £10.99 at Amazon) and sprinkling the mixture over the affected area,' he says. 'Coffee can also work well as a natural option for helping to discourage unwanted insects.'

The same approach can also be used when you're repairing bare patches or overseeding an existing lawn. 'Once you've spread your grass seed (GrowPure grass seed, £12.99 at Amazon is a great choice), mix 1–2 tablespoons of cinnamon with compost and spread it over the seeded area,' says Matt. 'This can help protect young seedlings as they begin to establish.'

Basically, while cinnamon is a great addition to your lawn care arsenal, it shouldn't replace the basics. Regular mowing helps keep grass at a suitable height, while aeration can improve drainage and allow air and water to reach the roots. Scarification removes built-up thatch and moss, and feeding the lawn appropriately encourages strong and healthy growth.

'Put these measures together, and you'll have a denser, stronger lawn that's better able to withstand common problems,' says Matt. 'Cinnamon can be a useful addition in certain situations, but it's the overall care and condition of your lawn that makes the biggest difference.'

'A dusting of cinnamon might give your lawn a fighting chance if it is diseased, so it's worth a try!' adds Morris.

FAQs

Better get sprinkling then, we guess! Just don't expect the spice rack to do all the work for you...

Our gardens might be winding down for the year, but there's never been a better time to squeeze even more potential out of it – and you can do that by collecting seeds from your plants in September.

Learning how to collect seeds is one of the most valuable gardening skills you can learn, because it means you can sow more plants for free next year. It’s also a really straightforward process – and many annuals and perennials will offer seed up freely at this time of the year.

Here’s a list of plants to collect seeds from in September to give you some budget-friendly gardening inspiration.

What you'll need

1. Alliums

Once ornamental allium flowerheads have gone brown and dry, you can start collecting seed from them – and September is the perfect time to get started.

‘Leave alliums standing in the border for as long as possible to enjoy their attractive seed heads but make sure you harvest the seed before it is shed naturally,’ advises Annelise Brilli, Thompson & Morgan’s horticultural expert.

‘Cut the heads, tip them upside down over a paper bag and shake to release the seed.’

These paper seed envelopes from Amazon are ideal, because there’s space to write key information like the variety and the date they were collected. You can start sowing allium seeds in autumn (for overwintering) or spring, or plant allium bulbs in September for a head start.

2. Poppies

September is a brilliant time to collect seeds from poppies, too. You’ll know they’re ready when the seed pods have turned a dry, light brown, and you can often hear the seeds rattling around inside when you shake them.

‘Although the hot, dry weather has made collecting perfectly dry seed a breeze, prolonged drought can also reduce both seed quantity and quality, so choose seed from the healthiest, most vigorous plants,’ notes Annelise.

‘Save the little silica gel sachets that come with packaging and place them in an airtight container alongside your paper seed envelopes to help keep the seeds dry.’

You can even buy seed boxes like this Unwins Gardeners’ Seed Storage Box from Debenhams.

3. Peas

You can also collect seeds from vegetable plants like peas in September – and after the hot summer we’ve just had, there’s a good chance that most of the pods will be ready.

My peas bolted months ago thanks to the heatwaves, but if you’ve still got a few pods left on your plants and they’ve gone dry and brittle, you can save the hardened peas inside.

‘Don’t wait until every pod is dry,’ says Helen Hutchings-Cox (@helenlikesplants), allotmenteer and GARDENA Top of the Plots Judge. ‘Once most of the pods have dried and the seeds are hard and rattling, pick them and finish drying them indoors if necessary. This reduces the risk of pods splitting and losing seed.’

4. Runner beans

Runner beans should be ready for seed collection this September, too, and the process is very similar to harvesting seed from peas.

‘Make sure the pods are fully dry before harvesting,’ says Helen. ‘If there’s still any softness or moisture in the pod or seed, give them more time to dry somewhere warm and airy. This helps prevent mould in storage.’

You can order silica gel packets from Amazon to place next to your seed envelopes if you don’t have any spares lying around.

5. Verbena

Verbena is a must if you're looking to collect seeds from perennials in September. Annelise told me that Verbena bonariensis is the species that grows best from collected seed – it’s the taller version that generally adds height to garden borders.

‘Prepare for another hot, dry summer by collecting seed from drought-tolerant favourites such as Verbena bonariensis,’ says Annelise.

‘While seed collected from named ornamental cultivars may not come true to type, seed collected from species such as this will.’

6. Ornamental grasses

You can also collect seeds from various types of ornamental grass in September to multiply your collections. Plants like maiden grass are the textural powerhouses of pots and borders, so you’ll get plenty of bang for your buck.

‘Keep an eye on grasses such as Miscanthus, Stipa and Calamagrostis as their flowerheads mature through late summer and autumn,’ says Annelise.

‘Cut well-developed heads just before the seed is fully ripe and place them in a paper bag indoors to finish ripening. Once dry, shake out the seed and store it in labelled paper packets.’

You can buy a pack of 200 paper bags for £4.99 from Amazon.

Those are just a few examples of plants you can collect seeds from in September. It's a small task for a big (and free) reward!

If your neighbour has a fruit tree and has neglected to pick up their dropped fruit, you may have noticed an increase in wasps attracted to your garden as the dropped fruit ferments and rots. So, I asked experts: Who is legally responsible for removing fallen fruit if it attracts wasps to a garden?

If your neighbour is not picking up their fruit tree windfall, it can feel very frustrating - especially if this dropped fruit is attracting pests. Because of this, it’s important to get clued up on the legal side of this dispute, so you can solve the issue and ideally maintain a good neighbourly relationship.

Whether your neighbour’s fruit is falling into your garden or theirs, this is what experts say you should do if their harvest is attracting wasps to your garden.

Who is legally responsible for removing fallen fruit if it attracts wasps to a garden?

If the fruit tree is within the boundaries of your neighbour's garden, the fruit that drops from it belongs to them. That remains true if the fruit drops into your garden. So, ultimately, if dropped fruit is attracting wasps to your garden, it is your neighbour’s responsibility to deal with it.

‘The first thing to do is to talk to your neighbours and see if a sensible resolution can be agreed to reduce and/or stop the wasps becoming pests. If they have no appetite to do anything then you can take action to remove branches that are traversing the boundary, in order to reduce the amounts of wasps on your side,’ explains Jagdeep Sandher, partner and head of civil litigation at Blythe Liggins Solicitors.

‘Your neighbours do not technically need to do anything with any windfall on their side of the boundary unless their refusal is causing vermin to come into your garden, in which case it is possible this may be deemed a nuisance.’

When it comes to any garden feature that may cause a neighbour dispute, the most important thing you can do is open a conversation with your neighbour first. Politely ask if they mind removing the fruit to reduce the number of wasps. If they refuse, as Jagdeep says, you can remove the fruit and cut back overhanging plants on your side of the boundary. However, you must never cross your boundary or damage your neighbour's tree.

‘You are perfectly within your rights to ask [your neighbour to remove fallen fruit] and to do so in writing. However, if your neighbour refuses, your legal options are limited unless the problem rises to the level of a statutory nuisance under the Environmental Protection Act 1990,’ adds Mosh Latifi, pest expert and co-owner of EcoCare Pest Management.

‘In the meantime, you can remove fruit that has fallen onto your side of the boundary yourself, place a wasp trap at the far end of your garden to draw wasps away from the problem area, and use deterrent sprays around play areas and patios while the situation is resolved.

‘If the wasp activity is severe enough to constitute a nuisance affecting your enjoyment of the property, your local council's environmental health team may be able to advise, though their powers in this area are limited.’

Deter wasps from your garden

If fallen fruit is attracted wasps to your garden, the first step is to apporach your neighbour and ask them to remove it. When it comes to wasps, most will not want to encourage them to a garden.

Roses give us so much joy and colour when they're blooming, so it pays to give them some TLC in September so they can get through the trials of autumn and winter.

Paying them some attention now will pay dividends later with healthy and strong roses next year.

We spoke to our gardening experts, and they've given us some fabulous tips on how to prep these favourite blooms right now.

1. Deadhead and lightly prune

First up is deadheading your roses, followed by a light prune.

'In September, rose care is about finishing strong and getting ready for winter, not heavy pruning,' advises Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

'Keep deadheading repeat-flowering varieties until mid to late September, cutting just above a healthy leaf to push one last flush, then stop so the plant can start to harden off before the first frosts.'

Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse at Easy Garden Irrigation agrees, 'You don’t want to prune the rose stems back too much as this would encourage new growth which would be damaged in the colder autumn weather to come.'

A last tip from Julian: 'If your roses produce hips, leave the last flowers on; the hips look good and the plant benefits from putting energy into wood rather than more blooms.'

Our favourite deadheading and pruning secateurs are the Burgon & Ball RHS Endorsed rose pruners, £24.95 on Amazon. They are fully hardened and tempered and have a sap groove to prevent sticking.

2. Tidy up above and below

As well as deadheading and pruning, at this time of year it's vital to look around the roses and underneath too.

Lucie explains, 'It's important to remove any leaves infected with diseases (like black spot) or diseased stems as if these are left the spores could overwinter and establish themselves in the following spring. You should also remove any dead stems or dying wood, as this will stop any decay from spreading and will help to open up the frame of the rose for good air circulation.' 


And don't forget to tidy up underneath as well, 'Make sure fallen flower petals or blooms are removed before they start to rot as well as the leaves as they fall – leaving fallen foliage to decay on the ground often becomes the perfect environment for fungal diseases to become established. Removing fallen debris also allows air to circulate freely around the base of your plants which helps create a healthy environment less inviting for pests and keeps the crown dry to help prevent issues with mold or rot,' adds Lucie.

Pop your dead stems and debris in these flexi tubs, set of 2 for £32.99, Amazon. Various colours are available, from bright yellow to purple and lime green.

3. Don't feed, but do water

It might be tempting to feed your roses as the heads die off and the temperatures cool, but according to Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director at LBS Horticulture we shouldn't.

'You should stop fertilising roses in September so that they stop producing tender new growth and begin hardening their wood for winter. If September is dry, keep watering roses to support any late flowers and prevent the roots from drying out.'

'Roses will naturally go into winter dormancy from around November until February and by stopping supplying them with nutrients in September you will be reinforcing that it’s time for them to slow down their growth, harden off any soft growth and begin to prepare for a rest through the colder months,' adds Lucie.

Amazon have a fabulous ergonomic 8 litre watering can, £21.22, that has a longer spout for more controlled watering, and is lighter to lift than some designs.

4. Train your climbers

If you have climbers, then now is the perfect time to give them a check over.

'Loose or long shoots on climbing and rambling roses should be secured to fences or a trellis to stop them from being damaged by wind,' advises Richard.

According to Lucie, it gives you the opportunity to train them too. 'Stems can be carefully trained horizontally or in a fan shape so they are encouraged to produce flowering side shoots next year along the full length of the stem rather than just at the top.'

Dobies have a great metal rose trellis, from £24.99, that is ideal for training your climbers.

5. Mulch well

'In late September or early October, mulch around the base with well-rotted compost or manure to feed the roots and protect them over winter,' says Julian.

Mulching helps for several reasons – it locks in moisture especially after dry spells and winds, it keeps the soil temperature steady as it gets cooler and it prevents weeds from sprouting up.

We like Strulch – a mineralised straw garden mulch, from £19.99 at Dobies. It's made from wheat straw and has a neutral pH.

Shop our three favourite roses

'Autumn is a good time to plant new roses, as they will have enough time to establish before winter,' suggests Richard.

Growing roses is such a joy, and with different varieties to choose from, there's really something for every garden – from contemporary to classic cottage style. Ensure you give them a little love this September to help them survive the winter well.

Bulb-shopping is one of my favourite September activities, because there are just so many to choose from. You can really tailor your garden colour scheme with them - and to celebrate, I’m rounding up a few of the best bulbs to order in September for pink spring blooms in 2027.

Before we start, it’s important to note that there’s a difference between the best time to plant spring bulbs and ordering them. Some bulbs can be planted in September, like daffodils - but others, like tulips, are best ordered now so that they’re ready for planting later in the autumn.

Still, what better time to stock up? The best spring bulb stockists are selling new collections and classic favourites – and these are the best bulbs to plant in September for pink spring blooms.

Bulb planting kit

1. Tulip 'Dreamer'

If you’re a fan of peonies, you’ll love this one. Tulip ‘Dreamer’ boasts blush pink, double blooms for fluffy border displays. They look just like peonies, flowering from mid- to late spring, with strikingly fresh green foliage. I think they’re the perfect cottage garden plant, and they look beautiful in a vase, too.

‘Tulip ‘Dreamer’ is the sort of luscious, layered variety you’ll want to stop and admire, with beautifully ruffled petals in soft shell pink,’ says Annelise Brilli, Thompson & Morgan’s horticultural expert. ‘Exceptionally generous in flower, it produces at least two blooms per stem, creating a fuller, more abundant display than the average tulip.’

Where to buy Tulip 'Dreamer' bulbs:

• Thompson & Morgan: Buy Tulip 'Dreamer' bulbs in packs of eight, 16 or 32.
• Dutch Grown: Pre-order Tulip 'Dreamer' bulbs for early October dispatch.

2. Tulip 'Huis Ten Bosch'

If you're hoping to order fringed bulbs this September for pink spring blooms in 2027, look no further than Tulip 'Huis Ten Bosch'. The fringed petals are a beautiful rose pink with a creamy white base, appearing between April and May.

Annelise recommends the 'Strawberry Frost' tulip collection, which includes two varieties: Tulip 'Huis Ten Bosch' and Tulip ‘Noordeinde White’, a brilliant white fringed tulip.

'Tulip ‘Strawberry Frost’ provides the perfect contrast to the softness of ‘Dreamer’, with crisply fringed petals delicately coloured in a beautifully balanced blend of pink and cream,' says Annelise.

Where to buy Tulip 'Huis Ten Bosch' bulbs:

• Thompson & Morgan: Order the Tulip 'Strawberry Frost' collection, which includes two different fringed varieties.
• Amazon: Or, order the pink Tulip 'Huis Ten Bosch' bulbs alone.

3. Narcissus 'Casanova'

'Casanova' daffodils might not look pink at first glance, but they're renowned for their delicate apricot-pink coronas. They make a wonderful addition to a pink flower bed or border, and a great choice if you're looking to plant unusual spring bulbs this month.

'Yellow is the colour which immediately springs to mind with daffodils but, surprisingly, there are some unique and exciting varieties which come in shades of pink,' says Annelise.

'The dashing Narcissus ‘Casanova’ barely looks like a daffodil with its ruffled apricot-pink corona sitting flat against white outer petals. Despite its glamorous appearance, ‘Casanova’ is as hardy and dependable as traditional varieties.'

Where to buy Narcissus 'Casanova' bulbs:

• Thompson & Morgan: Order packs of five or 10 Narcissus 'Casanova' bulbs.

4. Tulip 'Pink Impression'

If you're after a classic egg-shaped tulips, Tulip 'Pink Impression' is one of the best bulbs you can order in September for pink spring flowers. It can grow to over half a metre tall, adding height and colour to garden borders, and it's a lovely spring bulb to grow for cut flowers.

'Tulips are one of the best choices for pink spring blooms in 2027, with so many varieties to choose from,' says Charlotte Daubney, bulb expert at Taylors Bulbs. 'In our top three would be Tulip 'Pink Impression', a top-performing Darwin hybrid with giant, long-lasting flowers.'

Where to buy Tulip 'Pink Impression' bulbs:

• Crocus: Order seven Tulip 'Pink Impression' bulbs for £6.99, or 21 for £18.
• Peter Nyssen: Another affordable Tulip 'Pink Impression' stockist.

Plant these bulbs from November for pretty pink displays next spring.

Tomato plants are gifts that keep on giving, and if you’re lucky, yours will still be pumping out fresh tomatoes at this time of the year. To give your crop a boost, it’s worth knowing what to do with tomato plants in September.

Learning how to grow tomatoes gives you plenty of bang for your buck, because a pack of seeds alone can grow dozens and dozens of plants – and each plant has the potential to produce countless tomatoes. By September, many plants have been fruiting for a while – but that doesn’t mean their season is over.

As it turns out, there are a few ways to keep them fruiting or, at the very least, ripen the tomatoes that have already formed. If you’ve already revived your tomato plants after the heatwaves and are wondering what to do with your tomato plants in September, here are a few tips to keep them going.

What you'll need

1. Remove new flowers and tiny fruit

There are lots of reasons tomatoes don't turn red, but sometimes, it’s all down to an energy problem. More specifically, energy that's being misdirected.

The fix? Start removing new flowers that appear on your plant, as well as tiny fruits that just don’t seem to be growing.

‘Make sure to pinch out new flower trusses because they’re unlikely to produce worthwhile ripe tomatoes before the weather turns,’ says Helen Hutchings-Cox (@helenlikesplants), allotmenteer and GARDENA Top of the Plots Judge.

‘This gives the plant the opportunity to put its energy into ripening the already formed fruit.'

You can either pinch the fruit and flowers off by hand or use a pair of snips like these Darlac Deadheading Snips from B&Q.

2. Get rid of redundant leaves

New flowers and petite fruit aren’t the only things you should remove from your tomato plants in September. Helen says we should be snipping away yellowing tomato leaves, too, as well as any other foliage that looks unhealthy.

‘Keep plenty of healthy foliage around the developing fruit, but start to remove any yellowing, damaged or diseased leaves,’ she advises. ‘It is important not to strip the plant bare, because the leaves are still powering ripening.’

The GARDENA PremiumCut Pro Secateurs (which you can order from Amazon) are perfect for the task – just make sure you’re cleaning your garden tools properly between plants, especially if you’re dealing with diseased leaves.

3. Give your plants less water

Water your plants less might sound like counterproductive advice given that we’re on the climb-down from a drought, but it becomes key for tomato plants as September progresses.

‘As temperatures fall and growth slows, tomatoes need less water,’ Helen explains. ‘Avoid keeping the soil constantly wet, particularly in the greenhouse, as this encourages disease.’

Helen does note, however, that it’s important to give your plants water when they need it. If the hot weather creeps into this month, you’ll still need to keep your plants hydrated – so it’s worth feeling the top inch of the soil and watering when it feels dry. Or, grab a soil moisture meter like this one from Amazon.

These simple tasks can go a long way towards ensuring a bumper crop – or making the most of whatever your tomatoes have left to give.

If your neighbour's plants have grown into your garden and are causing an eyesore, blocking the light or dropping leaves in your space, you'll probably want to know if you can cut them back.

However, before you get out the secateurs, make sure you understand the rules around cutting your neighbour's plants to ensure you aren't breaking the law in the garden

'It can be really frustrating when plants from your neighbour’s garden start to spill over into your space. In England and Wales, you’re allowed to cut back any plants that cross onto your property, but only up to the boundary line,' says Natalie Welsh, Head of Property at HCB Widdows Mason.

1. Always speak to your neighbour first

'You can trim the overhanging branches or parts of a hedge that are encroaching into your garden and can do this without notice to your neighbour,' says Janet Lane, Property Litigation Solicitor at Rogers and Norton.

However, this doesn't mean you shouldn't ask them first – asking first is just neighbourly behaviour – and acting without your neighbour's knowledge could lead to a garden neighbour dispute.

'For best practice, take some photographs of the overhanging tree/bushes and knock on your neighbour’s door. Show them the photos and ask whether they have any objections to you trimming up your side,' says Jordan Kluth, property law expert at John Fowlers. 'Falling out with neighbours and getting into disputes will not only make living at the property uncomfortable, but it can become very expensive if it needs to involve legal proceedings.'

2. Do not go over your boundary

While you can cut your neighbour's plants if they grow into your garden, you must not trespass on their property, as this is illegal.

'You must not trespass onto the neighbour’s property to carry out the work or do anything that could be considered a nuisance in the legal sense. This principle also applies if you are trimming a ‘party hedge’ where both neighbours have rights and responsibilities regarding its maintenance,' says Janet Lane, Property Litigation Solicitor at Rogers and Norton,

Natalie Welsh, Head of Property at HCB Widdows Mason, seconds this, adding that 'boundary disputes can often become costly and acrimonious – if you’re not sure about your rights or think things might get tricky, it’s a good idea to speak to a legal expert first.'

In short, remember it’s an offence to prune your neighbour’s tree on their side of the fence.

3. Do not damage the plant

Trimming the plant is fine; damaging it is not – so make sure you know how to cut back the plant in question.

'You must not damage the main trunk or structure, and you should check first that the tree or hedge isn’t protected by a Tree Preservation Order or in a conservation area,' explains Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

When cutting a neighbour's plant – or any plant – it is important to disinfect your secateurs to prevent infection from being introduced to the plant via the blades. This is easy to do; just wipe the blades with an antibacterial spray or wipes – like these disinfecting wipes from Amazon. If your blades are blunt, make sure you sharpen your secateurs.

If you don't have secateurs, invest in the best secateurs you can afford – Spear & Jackson's 7159BS Razorsharp Advantage Bypass Secateurs, available on Amazon, are some of our favourites.

4. Correctly dispose of cutting

Not that you do not own the cuttings. 'The cuttings, and any fruit or flowers on them, still belong to your neighbour, so you need to offer them back,' explains Julian Palphramand, Head of Plants at British Garden Centres.

Something that is seconded by Natalie Welsh, Head of Property at HCB Widdows Mason, who adds: 'You mustn’t just throw them back over the fence - that's fly-tipping, which is illegal. If your neighbour doesn’t want the trimmings, then it’s down to you to dispose of them responsibly, whether that’s your garden waste bin or taking them to the recycling centre.'

This applies whether you are pruning a rose or fruit tree or trimming a hedge.

Keep on the right side of your neighbour and make sure you follow this guidance to avoid any complaints or disputes.