Of all the things I'm thinking about when spring comes around, my heating system is not usually one of them. But it turns out this might be a mistake. According to the experts I spoke to, now is actually one of the best times to service your boiler.

If you have looked into how often a boiler should be serviced and were planning on waiting until winter rolls around again to get yours checked over, it might be time to think again.

'If you wait until the middle of winter to call for help, your boiler could break down when you need it the most,' points out Gordon Chalk, MD at Next Level Underfloor Heating and Screed Solutions. 'Waiting until winter can also mean longer wait times for experts and possibly higher emergency call-out fees.'

Why is now a good time to get your boiler serviced?

While the general advice surrounding the best time to service a boiler tends to be to aim for early autumn when you begin to think about turning on your heating system, just before cold weather hits, right now is also perfect – as Michael Zohouri, founder of Pyramid Eco, explains.

'Now is one of the best times to do it. Once we move out of the peak winter season, heating engineers tend to be less stretched,' Michael explains. 'In the middle of winter, most call-outs are emergencies – breakdowns, no heating, no hot water. That means servicing often gets pushed back or booked weeks ahead.

'Getting it done in late winter or early spring means you’re ahead of the rush,' continues Michael. 'You’ve probably been using the boiler heavily, so it’s a good point to check for wear and tear. And you’re not panicking because the house is freezing.'

'Now might feel like an unusual time to think about boiler servicing – there is a common misconception that autumn is the sweet spot for getting your boiler serviced,' picks up Ant Langston, marketing manager at HeatandPlumb.com. 'But it is this final cold stretch when problems often surface.'

Do you have to get your boiler serviced?

Getting your boiler serviced regularly is the best way to ensure your boiler is running efficiently – but is it a legal requirement?

'There is no law in the UK that says homeowners have to have their boiler serviced once a year, but it is highly recommended and, in many cases, to keep your guarantee current, most boiler manufacturers say that you need to have it serviced annually,' explains Gordon Chalk. 'Without yearly maintenance from a trained expert, some problems might not be covered, leaving you with big costs. It's not just about the law and guarantees; it's also about safety and efficiency. This is something we always stress to our clients, because a broken boiler can cause serious problems.'

That said, there are some instances where boiler servicing becomes a legal requirement, as Michael Zohouri points out. 'Legally, if you’re a landlord, an annual Gas Safety Certificate is required.'

What can happen if you put off getting your boiler serviced?

There are a whole host of reasons why having your boiler serviced annually should be at the top of your home maintenance to-do list – particularly if you don't want to be having to replace a boiler any time soon.

'In my experience, small issues turn into expensive ones when boilers aren’t serviced regularly,' warns Michael Zohouri. 'Things like debris build-up, worn seals, or pressure issues are usually picked up during a service. I’ve seen boilers running at lower efficiency simply because they’re clogged internally or not burning fuel cleanly. That means higher gas bills. In worst-case scenarios, poor maintenance can lead to carbon monoxide risks.'

'A boiler that hasn't been serviced can become less effective over time. Parts can get stuck, rust, or wear out, which makes the boiler work harder and use more fuel to heat the same amount of space,' picks up Gordon Chalk. 'This directly leads to higher energy bills, which cancels out any energy-saving benefits of a well-insulated home or a UFH system that works well.'

'Getting an annual boiler service will also ensure you are protected against carbon monoxide poisoning so it is crucial that you book this in each year ahead of time,' adds Ian Palmer-Smith, appliance repair expert at Domestic & General. 'I also strongly advise getting a carbon monoxide detector if you do not have one already. Faulty boiler systems can leak carbon monoxide gas into your home, but without any colour, smell or taste, you need a detector to warn you of its presence to stay safe. They typically last five years before they need to be replaced.'

FAQs

How much does a boiler service cost?

Clearly then, getting an annual boiler service is hugely important, so it makes sense to budget for this ahead of time – but how much is a boiler service?

'Anywhere between £80 and £120 for a standard service, depending on your area and the boiler type,' says Michael Zohouri. 'Some companies offer service plans that spread the cost monthly. Compared to the price of a replacement boiler, it’s a small investment.'

'During a boiler service, engineers will identify any potential issues before they develop into serious problems,' adds Ian Palmer-Smith. 'Spotting a problem early on will help to extend the lifespan of your appliance. A new boiler can cost up to £5,000 including installation so it is well worth servicing annually through boiler cover to prevent you needing to replace prematurely.”

Who should you get to service your boiler?

It is really important that your boiler is serviced by someone with the right qualifications. Not only will they be able to identify signs that your boiler is about to stop working, but is actually illegal for unregistered engineers to carry out the job.

'It must be a Gas Safe Registered engineer. You can check the Gas Safe Register online to confirm credentials,' says Michael Zohouri. 'Ideally, choose someone experienced with your specific boiler brand. A good engineer will check combustion, clean key components, test safety devices, inspect seals and make sure everything is running efficiently. It keeps your boiler reliable and safe. It’s one of those jobs that doesn’t feel urgent until the heating stops working. Better to stay ahead of it.'

'If you buy an oil heater, make sure it is registered with OFTEC,' adds Gordon Chalk. 'Not only is hiring someone who isn't trained dangerous, it's also against the law, and it could mean that your boiler's guarantee and your home insurance are voided.'

There are several things that can go wrong with a boiler, but having yours serviced regularly should mean you never have to deal with them. If your radiators are not heating up, low boiler pressure could be just one reason.

Log burner getting too hot, too cold, not lighting properly? We take a look at the most common stove problems and explain how to fix them

Your log burning stove troubleshooting guide – experts reveal the top 5 problems they come across and how to put them right

There is no denying the character and charm log burning stoves can instantly bring to a room, not to mention how effective they are at heating all kinds of spaces – but that isn't to say there aren't a few log burning stove problems that tend to crop up on a regular basis, no matter how much research you put into choosing the right model for you.

Thankfully these issues are usually simple to resolve once you get to the bottom of why they are occurring – and that's where my troubleshooting guide comes in. I spoke to the experts to find out the most common problems they encounter with log burning stoves, why they happen and what to do about them.

From smoke escaping into the room to a fire that won't light properly, don't let these niggles ruin your enjoyment of your log burner – this expert-approved advice will put them right fast.

1. Smoke that won't go up the chimney

Noticed an accumulation of smoke building up inside your stove? According to Jon Butterworth, director at Arada, this happens all too often.

'One of the main problems people experience is smoke not drawing properly up the chimney. In almost every case, this comes down to the flue system rather than the stove,' explains Jon. 'Making sure your appliance is installed by a qualified professional, with the correct flue size and adequate room ventilation, will ensure it performs efficiently from day one.'

Another cause can be a blockage or build up of soot inside your flue or chimney.

'Routine care makes all the difference,' advises Jon. 'An annual chimney sweep and occasional check of seals and internal components will keep your stove safe, efficient and ready to enjoy for years to come.'

2. The fire keeps going out

Lighting a log burner is usually not too difficult providing you arm yourself with the right materials and tools – kindling, the right firewood and, if you choose, firelighter. You should also leave the vents open for maximum airflow and then ensure the door is a little ajar while it gets going. However, whether you favour the traditional way of lighting a fire or prefer the 'top-down' method, in some cases the usual methods just won't work. There is a common reason for this – you're using the wrong wood for your log burner.

'A frequent issue is difficulty lighting or keeping the fire going,' reveals Jon Butterworth. 'This is usually caused by burning wood that isn’t properly seasoned. Always use kiln-dried or well-seasoned logs with a moisture content below 20%.'

Joanna Humphreys, fire and stove specialist at Direct Stoves agrees. 'You should only burn kiln-dried or well-seasoned wood with less than 20% moisture content. Both hardwood and softwood will work well if the moisture content is low enough,' says Joanna. 'If you are unsure of the moisture content, or if you are drying your own wood, you can use a moisture meter to check. We always recommend avoiding woods with a high sap content as they do not burn well.'

3. The glass keeps turning black quickly

After several uses, the glass in the doors of your log burner is bound to start to look a little dirty and, over time, may form a black film. While cleaning log burner glass is easy to do if you keep on top of it, stove doors that get dirty quickly are a pain – plus they obscure the view of those lovely flickering flames. This problem could all be down to the way you are using your stove.

'If the glass becomes blackened quickly, it’s often a sign the stove is being run too cool,' explains Jon Butterworth. However, there is another reason this can happen too and, yet again, it comes down to the wood you are burning.

'Burning dry, well-seasoned logs with the right moisture content and allowing the stove to reach its ideal temperature will keep the glass clearer and the burn cleaner,' says Jon.

4. The room it's in is getting too hot

One of the things I wish I'd known before installing my log burner, which sits in the heart of my open plan kitchen, dining room and snug, is just how hot it would get. While its heat can be very welcome on a cold winter's day, when sitting in the dining area, things can get a little too toasty.

If you are finding that your log burner is producing too much heat for the space it is located in, the most likely cause is that its heat output is too high for the size of your room.

Ideally you would have had sound advice from a HETAS Registered Installer but if you didn't or you bought your house with the stove already in place, there are a few steps you can take to ease the issue. Try leaving doors from the room it is in open so that the heat can disperse throughout the house, or consider investing in a stove fan which does a similar thing.

Shop stove fans

5. Your log burner is not giving out enough heat

There are two potential reasons why your stove might not be giving out enough heat. The first lies in its heat output – it could be undersized for the space it is being used in. However, if you are confident that you specified the right size log burner for your home, your firewood could be to blame.

'Wet wood creates more smoke, less heat and more build-up inside the stove,' explains Jon Butterworth.

'Hardwoods tend to burn hotter and longer, whereas softwoods, although they burn hot, tend to burn out slightly faster,' adds Joanna Humphreys. 'When shopping for wood, look for the Woodsure Ready To Burn logo. This will offer peace of mind that the wood you’re purchasing is ready to burn safely in your log burner.'

FAQs

Can I still have a log burner without a chimney?

The good news here is that even if your home doesn't have a chimney, you can still install a log burning stove in order to realise your log burner ideas.

'Not every home comes with a pre-existing chimney, but that shouldn't get in the way of your plans. Many modern solutions allow for wood-burning stove installation in spaces without traditional chimneys,' says Joanna Humphreys. 'A twin-wall flue system is the preferred solution for installing a wood-burning stove in a home without a chimney. Essentially, this system acts as an artificial chimney, providing a safe exit for the smoke and fumes. Twin-wall flues typically consist of two concentric metal tubes with insulation between them. They can run either through the home or externally along the outside.

'When deciding on the flue route, there are two options: an internal or an external system,' continues Joanna. 'An internal system runs through the home, typically via a room or loft, and exits through the roof. It’s slightly more efficient for heat retention but requires more internal work.

'With an external system, the flue runs outside the building, which typically makes installation easier and causes less disruption to the home interior,' adds Joanna. 'Another option is to build a faux chimney; it can enhance the aesthetic appeal of your wood-burning stove by creating a characterful setting, ideal for rooms without an original chimney structure. Not only does it create a focal point, but it can be used to cleverly hide the flue system.'

One of the most important things to do before installing a wood burning stove is to ensure you understand the log burner building regulations. These are there not only to ensure that installation is carried out safely, but also mean that your stove should operate at peak performance.

As the weather is becoming more mild, but still not particularly warm, turning the heating on for the whole house while I work from home is a waste.

So now is the ideal time for me to test out the Daewoo 2500W Oil Filled Heater with LED Display & Remote Control to see how it heats a room, what it costs to do so and how it compares to the best oil-filled radiators.

In a nutshell

I had previously only used an electric fan heater to generate an extra bit of heat when needed, so I was intrigued to try out an oil-filled radiator that works in quite a different way. While electric heaters tend to heat up quickly and cool down as soon as they turn off, oil-filled radiators take longer to heat up, but can continue giving out heat long after they are switched off.

I definitely had to be patient to wait for the Daewoo radiator to heat up, rather than using it for an instant burst of heat, but I was impressed that it was still giving out heat for a good couple of hours after I had turned it off.

It did struggle to heat my large open plan living room, so I think this would be better suited to medium-sized rooms around 25m2.

Specification

• Type of heater: Oil-filled radiator
• RRP: £89.99
• Weight: 9.2kg
• Dimensions (W x H x D): 45.5 x 59.5 x 24cm
• Wattage: 2500W
• Running costs per hour (based on January 2026 energy price cap): 55p
• Room size suitability: 25-35m2
• Smart features: None
• Dual functionality: None
• Oscillation: None

Unboxing, setting up and first impressions

The Daewoo oil-filled radiator arrived in a protective delivery cardboard box and then the branded packaging box. The radiator itself weighs less than 10kg, so it was simple enough to move into position.

Getting the radiator out of the box was a bit tricky thanks to the double cardboard, so I found it best to lie the box flat, cut the tape on one end and slide the radiator out, rather than trying to lift it out by the top. I loved that the packaging was almost entirely recyclable, with the plug, casters and wheel plates in cardboard boxes and the radiator itself secured by moulded cardboard ends. Even the protective bag for the radiator was made out of recycled materials and is able to be recycled with soft plastics at a supermarket.

Before turning it on, I had to attach the caster wheels which didn’t take long, but it meant turning the radiator upside down and while I was able to do this myself, some might find it difficult without a second pair of hands. I did also feel a bit uneasy when I could hear the oil trickle down! But fortunately the oil is fully contained so there's no chance of it escaping.

The instructions advise to use a spanner to tighten the domed nuts, (although this isn't supplied), but the rest can be done by hand. Once assembled, I turned the radiator right side up and found the manoeuvrability of the castors was slightly sticky. The radiator definitely prefers to move directly forward with side or diagonal movements resisted by the castors. They loosened up after a couple of journeys ferrying between rooms, but I'm glad that my bedroom and living room are on the same level, otherwise this would have been a bit tricky.

After plugging in, you have to use the red switch on the side to give the radiator power and then also press the power button on the touch LED display. It also comes with a remote that I found easy to use (although I had to hunt around for some AAA batteries as they weren't included).

The radiator automatically starts at 35ºC on comfort (full power) mode, but the temperature can be decreased using the touch screen or remote. Tapping the cog/settings icon will toggle through comfort, eco and anti-frost modes. A nice feature is the light dimmer, which you can have on full, slightly dimmed or off.

I like that the radiator has a useful timer function to turn it on and off — don't do what I did though and cycle through them too quickly. If you press the timer by accident, which I did, you have to cycle through 24 hours to cancel it.

What’s it like to use?

It's important to understand the differences between oil-filled radiators and electric heaters, with one main point of difference that oil-filled radiators are known for heating up slowly (more slowly than electric heaters), but holding on to their heat for longer once switched off. And I definitely found that to be true for this Daewoo model.

First up, I tried it in our open plan living room (which is admittedly a pretty large space — approximately 38m2) but I think this was a little too large for this oil-filled radiator (which states it's suitable for large rooms up to 35m2) to handle. The room started at 16.9ºC and two hours later it just about hit 17.9ºC. That just goes to show how important it is to use the right size heater for the space you want to heat.

Next, I tried it in my much more suitably-sized 17m2 bedroom with better results. The 14.3ºC room heated to 17.5ºC within an hour.

I can also attest to the fact that the radiator holds on to the head long after being turned off. I went to move it about 15 minutes after I had turned it off, and it was still giving off heat. In fact it was giving off residual heat for a good two hours after it has been turned off. While this free heat is definitely a plus, it did mean it was a little difficult to move from where I'd had it placed centrally in the room as the handle was hot to the touch for a long time after turning it off.

I also liked that the noise levels were pleasingly low at just 28dB, even when the radiator was on its highest setting. I definitely prefer this to fan heaters that can give off a significant whirring sound that I find a bit distracting.

Running costs

This Daewoo radiator has a wattage of 2500W, which means that per hour, it costs 55p on comfort mode based on the January 2026 energy price cap of 27.96p/kWh.

Eco mode drops the use down to 1000W so will continue to keep the radiator warm at a steady temperature. This mode will cost just under 28p an hour to use.

At the time of writing, oil prices are surging due to ongoing world events and burning oil at 137p/litre (compared with 62p/litre 12 days prior) for our oil boiler heating seems like madness. So I’m happy I have this little heater to keep warm instead of putting the central heating on.

Cleaning and maintenance

A little dust is all this oil-filled radiator needed to stay in working order. Before cleaning, I made sure the radiator was completely cool and unplugged from the mains power. The instruction guide warns against use of any abrasive cleaners and to simply wipe down with a damp cloth.

I would suggest a microfibre cloth in order to get between the fins for a thorough clean, or a microfibre or feather duster for removing dust.

Who should buy this oil-filled heater?

The Daewoo 2.5kW oil-filled radiator is best suited to rooms you are going to inhabit all day, so I think it would be ideal in a home office or small living room where you can have it nearby to feel the benefits of the warmth, even when it's turned off.

Depending on how small the room is that you want to heat, you may get away with a lower powered model, like the De'Longhi TRNS0505M 500W Oil Filled Radiator, and benefit from lower running costs.

However, if you are after a quicker burst of heat, then you may be better off with an electric heater, such as the Morphy Richards HeatFlux Ultra Thin 2kW ceramic tower fan heater, that heats up much faster than an oil-filled radiator. Although the pay off for a quick heat up time is that it doesn't retain heat for long after it's been switched off.

There are certain times of year when having the central heating on all day is not really necessary (not to mention expensive) but things haven't quite warmed up enough yet to mean you want no heating at all. This is where the best oil-filled radiators really come into their own – a convenient way of keeping warm without sending electricity bills soaring.

I was still of the opinion that oil-filled radiators were somewhat old-fashioned if I'm totally honest – clumsy in their design and slow to heat up. How wrong I was – the ProBreeze OmniWarm 2500W Oil Filled 11 Fins Eco Radiator has totally changed my opinion. Here's why.

In a nutshell

With an RRP of £109.99 and various power settings that mean you can keep running costs down, this contemporary-looking oil-filled radiator is a very smart investment.

While you might not get that instant hot blast that fan heaters offer, this radiator gets up to temperature in minutes and will start distributing its heat nice and evenly throughout the room much faster than you might imagine.

The smart features are a really handy extra that give you an added level of control and don't require any tech wizardry to get to grips with.

Specification

• Type of heater: Oil-filled radiator
• RRP: £109.99
• Weight: 10.4 kg
• Dimensions: (W x H x D): (44.2 x 61.8 x 28cm)
• Wattage: 2500W
• Running costs per hour: 27.69p - 69.22p
• Room size suitability: Unspecified
• Smart features? Yes. WiFi control via smart app
• Dual functionality? No
• Oscillation? No

Unboxing, setting up and first impressions

The heater came well boxed with only the minimum packaging used to keep it from being damaged in transit. Not all the packaging was recyclable which was a shame. However, on the upside, I had expected it to be far heavier to carry into the house than it was.

In total there were just three main components included – the radiator itself and the two sets of castors, as well as the fixings to attach them. The radiator also comes with a neat little remote, already fitted with its batteries.

The castors were super simple to attach using the wing nuts they came with – no tools necessary. Other than that, the radiator comes ready to plug in and go and, thanks to the concise and easy-to-read instruction manual, I had mine up and running with no dramas.

I had wondered whether smart electric heaters were worth it and given that this was my first time using one (or any kind of smart appliance for that matter!) I was a little worried that setting it all up would be complicated but I was pleasantly surprise. All I needed to do was scan the QR code in the manual to download the ProBreeze app – which then took me through around three simple steps to get connected to my WiFI – et voila, we were good to go. From the app I can control the temperature, turn it on and off and use the timer settings.

Quick word of note, I had a small panic when I checked the app at one point and was told it couldn't connect to the heater. Initially I thought something had gone wrong but then realised this was because the heater had been switched off at the wall rather than being left in standby mode meaning I needed to reconnect.

When you first turn the heater on there is a bit of of a light gurgling and trickling sound as it gets up to temperature – which only seemed to take a minute or two. After that, it is silent to run, unlike some of the other best electric heaters I have tested.

Appearance wise, this is nothing like the bulky old-fashioned oil-filled radiators you'd see in the past. Despite its impressive heat output, this is pleasingly slimline with a far more modern appearance – you definitely wouldn't notice its presence if you located it in a discreet position within your room, although it is recommended that you leave at least 50cm clearance space on all sides.

What’s it like to use?

In short, this is one of the easiest heaters I have used. It has a switch on the side to turn it on at which point the standby and timer buttons light up. To begin using it to heat the room you just press the standby button, using either the panel on the unit or the remote control (or with the app on your phone if you are using it).

It has four modes – ECO, High, Medium and Low. Once you set the temperature the heater operates automatically in ECO mode where it continuously adjusts to keep this temperature stable. Usefully, you can also see the room's ambient temperature if needed.

I found the ECO setting to be perfect – even on a pretty chilly day. It quickly took the edge off the cold in my open plan space and, unlike a fan heater, managed to give out a much broader type of heat that seemed to spread out throughout the area rather than spot heat. I also noticed that even after it was turned off it stayed warm for around 30 minutes, although I imagine this would depend on the temperature you had it set at.

Unlike a fan heater I would feel more confident using the timer on this one, for example setting it to come on a little while before everyone gets up in the morning as a way of heating the house without turning the central hearting on to warm things up a bit or before I am due to get home to avoid walking into the freezing entrance hall (the radiator in here is stubbornly unreliable and using the heater here made the world of difference.)

I am also loving the fact that as we enter that time of year when it is hard to know when to turn the central heating off, this can be used to bridge the gap, allowing you navigate the UK's unreliable spring temperatures easily.

Like I said, the heater is not overly heavy, but the castors it sits on and comfortable handle make it even easier to wheel around the house as much as you want.

One downside – and something I have found with a few heaters I have tested – is that the cable length is not quite as long as I would like. It is 150cm and in my open plan space I would quite like to have been able to position it a little more centrally than was possible. That said, had we bit a little more generous with the number of electrical sockets here it might not have been a problem.

One more thing worth noting, when the heater is switched off, either at the wall or using the power switch, it loses connection to the app. This isn't too problematic – you simply need to reconnect it to the WiFi by holding down the timer button for five seconds.

And finally, if you have young children around, you need to be aware that the metal fins do get quite hot to the touch, as you might imagine – take care with this.

How much does it cost to run?

Using the January 2026 energy price cap figure for electricity, which is 27.69p per kWh, this 2500W heater would cost just under £0.70 per hour to run. In all honestly I expected it to be a bit cheaper.

That said, when those figures drop in April, to 24.67 pence per kWh, the heater's running costs will also come down – to around £0.62 per hour. Also, these calculations are based on using it at full pelt. If you were to run it on its Low setting which is a constant 1000W, it would only cost you 24.67 pence per hour. Given that we are now coming out of winter, that might be all you need.

It is also worth noting, particularly if you are looking to save energy, that even when it has been turned off, the heater continues to give off a little free heat – unlike some of the electric fan heaters out there.

Cleaning and maintenance

As a pristine white heater (black is also available) this is going to readily show up dust and, when my dog came in from a walk and decided to shake nearby it did get splattered with muddy water.

However, cleaning was easy with a soft damp cloth – just make sure you've turned the heater off and let it cool completely before doing this.

Obviously the fins make getting rid of dust a little tricker than it would be with a flat panel heater, but the slimline nozzle attachment on my vacuum took care of this and a manual radiator brush would act in a similar way.

What do other online reviews say?

In general, reviews for the OmniWarm 2500W Oil Filled 11 Fins Eco Radiator Heater are really positive, with users praising its simple set-up and ease-of-use.

A few reviewers online mentioned that they felt the thermostat under-read room temperature, suggesting you might need to adjust it accordingly to avoid it working harder than necessary. Others found WiFi connectivity to be a little unreliable.

Who should buy this electric heater?

This is perfect for all kinds of uses. It would be great for getting an unheated space, such as a garage, workshop, or freezing cold entrance hall like mine, nice and warm quickly.

It is also perfect for those looking for a way to get their home feeling a little warmer on a chilly spring or early-autumn morning when the central heating might not be in use but you need a blast of heat.

Like I said, those with young children should take care with the hot surface if you have the temperature set particularly high, although it does have a child-lock setting.

After a very wet start to 2026, welcome milder temperatures are coming around. But with mornings and evenings still chilly, where does that leave you when it comes to your heating, and how long should you have it on in spring?

While it may not quite be warm enough to go without it entirely, the likelihood is now that you don't need your heating on for as many hours as you would in winter.

To help determine how long that should be, and when you might be able to turn your heating off for the summer season, I roped in a couple of heating experts to share their expertise.

How many hours a day should your heating be on in spring?

There's not actually a set number of hours that your heating should be on in spring, especially as there's lots of factors that can influence how warm your home feels.

Beyond the changeable weather than we can still get in the UK at this time of year, from high teens one minute, to single figures the next, the orientation of your home, and how well insulated it is will all play a part in how long your heating should be on for this season.

'It is difficult to give an exact number as there are so many factors to consider,' says Martyn Bridges from Worcester Bosch. 'Everything from whether the house is properly insulated to whether it has a south-facing conservatory. Each will inform the home temperature.'

At this time of year, south facing rooms will feel warmer on sunny days as they benefit from solar gain. If the rooms you spend most time in during the day face south, and have large windows, then you might find that you don't need your heating on much at all.

However, for rooms facing north, they might still feel chilly so you might still need a boost from your heating to keep things comfortable.

What's a good example spring heating schedule?

As we head into spring time, temperatures tend to still be low first thing in the morning and when the sun goes down, but are relatively mild during the middle of the day. And so typically a schedule like the below could work for the average home:

• First thing in the morning. Overnight temperatures are still quite low this time of year, so scheduling your heating to come on for an hour or so as you get up is still a wise idea.
• Off during the day. If you are home during the day, then one of the best oil-filled radiators or electric heaters may be all you need for the occasional burst of heat when and where you need it.
• Early evening. Right now in the UK, the sun is setting at around 6pm, which is when we tend to feel temperatures dropping. To ward off the chill, it's worth scheduling your heating to come on for a couple of hours in the evening to keep things comfortable.

'You can run the heating 60 to 90 minutes before you wake up, then again for 1-2 hours after sunset, with little or no daytime running if the house is holding heat,' says Matthew Powell, Founder of WarmZilla. 'Keeping the main thermostat around 18 to 19°C with a night setback of 16 to 17°C usually balances comfort, home energy use, and the cost of living, without letting the building get so cold that the risk of dampness increases.'

'Many households run space heating for about 2 to 4 hours a day in March and April, then taper to roughly 1 to 2 hours a day by late May if the weather stays mild. Those hours are often split into two windows, one around getting up and one later in the evening, rather than a continuous daytime run. The exact figure swings with insulation, draughts, and how quickly radiators warm up, so a well set-up system can feel comfortable on fewer hours than an older or poorly balanced one.'

But while this is a good example to follow, there's no hard and fast rule. 'Don’t feel afraid to turn down or turn off the heating if the weather is nice outside,' adds Martyn. 'All you have to do is turn it back on!'

How should homeowners adapt their home heating for spring?

With the weather still changeable, it's worth understanding how best to adapt your heating system to ensure a comfortable home environment all day long.

'If you have modern up-to-date controls, then they will do all of that task for you,' explains Martyn. 'They can detect the temperature of both the weather and the indoor air temperature and either turn the heating down to its lowest rate or even turn the boiler off.'

However if don't have modern controls, then a little more input is needed. 'With older controls, such as mechanical room thermostats and time clocks, then you need to make the adjustments yourself,' explains Martyn.

'Turning the heating on in the morning for an hour can bring the house up to a comfortable 21 centigrade, but for spring that can be reduced to thirty minutes. Similarly, you can switch it on later and later at night as the days continue to get longer.

'It's ultimately trial-and-error depending on the weather outside. The best bet is to invest in modern day controls, as the job is done for you.' This can be an ideal one-time way to save energy.

If you do want to update your controls, consider the options below.

When do people tend to turn their heating off for summer?

While the answer to when people turn their heating off for the summer season will entirely depend on the weather, many people tend to time it when the clocks go forward, which this year happens on Sunday 29 March.

But it's worth keeping an eye on the weather and look for steady warmer temperatures before you put your heating in summer mode. Matthew recommends keeping watch for consistent overnight temperatures of 8°C and above, and checking whether your home can hold at 18°C by early evening. An inexpensive room thermometer like this one from Amazon (£6.29) can help you decide when it's mild enough to do without your radiators.

This year, the kind of tariff you are on may also play into your decision of when you turn the heating off, especially if you are on a variable tariff, as Martyn explains: 'Given the recent conflict between US and Iran, gas prices are skyrocketing, so if not on a fixed tariff any minute you can turn your heating off the better.'

Once you are less reliant on your radiators to keep warm at home, it's a good idea to get your system serviced. 'This is also a sensible window to book maintenance, because spring and summer are quieter for boiler installation and servicing, and small fixes now can reduce run-time and bills next season,' says Matthew. 'A brief test run every few weeks keeps pumps and valves moving, which helps avoid avoidable call-outs later.'

As someone who works from home, being able to create a comfortable temperature in the room I'm in is important for me year round. I also have limited space, so am particularly curious about appliances that can be used for both heading and cooling purposes.

But as I test the best electric heaters and best fans, I'm curious as to whether a single unit is capable of meeting my needs. That's why I was super keen to test out the Russell Hobbs Bladeless Fan with Cool & Heat Function.

In a nutshell

I really enjoyed testing out the Russell Hobbs Bladeless Fan with Cool & Heat Function. It made really quick work of warming up my just under 18m2 living room, fit unobtrusively against the wall, and it's 90° oscillation means that it can effectively heat or cool the whole room evenly.

With multiple wind speed modes, and temperature settings means it's easy to personalise your desired comfort levels. And with ION Wind mode, it can kill bacteria in the end surrounding the fan, which in turn can make your home healthier.

It's not completely silent while in use, and depending on the fan speed I chose and whether I was using it in heat or cooling mode, it varied between barely and considerably noticeable.

On the whole I was impressed with this fan's effectiveness, especially in heat mode.

Specification

• Type of heater: Fan heater
• RRP: £199
• Weight: 7.41kgs
• Dimensions (W x H x D): 23 x 86 x 23cm
• Wattage: 2kW
• Running costs per hour: 55.38p/kWh
• Room size suitability: up to 25m2
• Smart features? N/A
• Dual functionality: Fan, heater, purifier mode
• Oscillation: Yes

Unboxing, setting up and first impressions

The fan arrived well packaged in cardboard (big tick from an easy recycling point of view), and a minimal amount of recyclable plastic.

In the box you get the ready-assembled fan and two filters, plus the instruction manual. The bladeless design means it's really easy to remove from the box and get upright.

Initially, I was surprised by how tall the Russell Hobbs Bladeless Fan with Cool & Heat Function was — it stands at 86cm. But while it was taller than I was expecting, it's base is about the size of a dinner plate, which meant I had the perfect unobtrusive spot for it in my living room (and I didn't have to rearrange the existing furniture to get there.

Once I had unboxed the fan heater, I moved it into the living room. While there are no dedicated handles for manoeuvrability, and it's height makes it a little cumbersome to try and lift from the base, I did find it easiest to move by slotting my arm through the hole in the middle and lifting it that way. If I was trying to take this up and down stairs though, I'd definitely recommend getting another pair of hands to help.

In terms of set-up, while this fan and heater can be plugged straight in and switched on, you will need to add the filters first. There are a couple of panels on the base of the unit, which pop off, then you slot the filters in and clip the panels back in place. I had no trouble with the first panel, but it was a little fiddly to get the second off. But after a bit of gentle teasing, I managed to get the filters in position.

What’s it like to use?

The Russell Hobbs Bladeless Fan with Cool & Heat Function is really easy to use, which I appreciated. The onboard touch panel is easy to reach, clear, responsive and largely intuitive. A couple of the modes, like Smart Wind and ION Wind, weren't initially clear as to what they would do, but fortunately there is a really clear breakdown in the instruction manual that explains exactly what these modes are meant to do.

There is also a handy remote control that allows you to turn it on and off, set a timer, adjust the temperature, wind speed, oscillation or turn on ION or Smart Wind mode. If you want to switch between heating and cooling mode, I found that couldn't be done via the remote, and instead I needed to use the onboard controls. Fortunately, they are on the top of the appliance so they are really easy to reach.

While the remote is handy, it only works when you are in front of the appliance and within 5m. I had the fan heater opposite where I tend to sit in the living room, so this worked fine, but its location is definitely something you should definitely think about if you are considering this fan heater.

When it comes to the different modes this fan heater has to offer, I tested it throughout February so opted for the heat mode more often than not. It took 5-10 seconds for the heat to start coming through the fan, but once it did, it made quick work of warming up the space, even quicker when I turned on the oscillating mode.

I really liked that I could choose a precise temperature, rather than a vague heat output setting. The temperature goes up to 35°C, but I found 22°C to be the most comfortable warming temperature. You don't get a choice of fan power in the heat mode, but it's pitched perfectly so I didn't find that to be detrimental.

However, in cooling mode, there are a lot more options. There are 12 fan speed settings, plus night and baby modes that put the fan on its quietest, gentlest setting. Wind speed settings 1-3 are very quiet indeed at around 45dB (which is classed as gentle background noise), but once you get to speed 4 and above the fan gets noisier, to the point when it's hard to ignore it. I clocked it at 65dB on setting 12, which is equivalent to chatting with friends.

There's a small display screen on the front of the unit, which lights up and displays any specific modes you have selected, but after 30 seconds, this dulls so it's not wasting energy lighting up unnecessarily. The same can be said for the light band that turns red when in heat mode and blue when in cooling mode. After 30 seconds, this turns off.

I actually found this colour banding to be a particularly useful feature, especially when the appliance remembers its settings from the last time it was used rather than defaulting to something specific. I couldn't always remember which setting I'd used last, so this instant visual cue as to whether it was in heat or cooling mode is very handy.

Running costs

Using the January 2026 energy price cap figure of 27.69p per kilowatt hour as the cost of electricity, (correct at the time of writing), this 2kW fan and heater will cost just over 55p per hour to run.

If that makes you baulk a little bit, then it's worth noting that being able to customise the temperature and wind speed modes to your personal taste can help keep running costs under control, especially compared to heaters with more basic dial controls. In addition, this appliance has a timer function you can set that means you reduce the chance of leaving it running longer than you need to. Moreover, in heat mode, it'll turn off automatically when it registers that the actual room temperature exceeds the target temperature.

You can also select a smart wind function that will automatically adjust the wind speed depending on temperature changes it monitors in the room.

Remember that when it comes to electric heaters, they are not designed to be used as a long-term primary heat source. It's best to think of them as complementary to your central heating, using them in short bursts to provide heat in the room you are in when you need it.

This is how to use the appliance most effectively.

Cleaning and maintenance

A quick dust on a regular basis is a good idea with this fan to keep it running it's best, and it's worth checking the filters every couple of months and vacuuming them to remove any build up.

Keep your eyes peeled too for the filter indicator light that may show on this display. This didn't appear during the testing process, but when that icon remains on, the filter needs replacing.

Who should buy it?

If you want to create a comfortable temperature year round using a single appliance, then the Russell Hobbs Bladeless Fan with Cool & Heat Function is a worthwhile investment. It heats quickly, offers decent cooling functionality and has an efficient, sturdy and bladeless design that means it would be suitable for a home with kids and pets. It also has built-in filtration and ion wind mode to purify and sterilizes the air, which will be very handy for allergy sufferers.

The dimensions of Russell Hobbs appliance may be a little large for smaller rooms, in which case the more compact Dreo Atom 316, which could sit on a table top, may be more suitable.

It's also a more budget-friendly alternative to the hugely popular Dyson models like the Dyson HP1 purifying fan heater which may be incredibly effective but its hefty price tag may be off-putting to some.

Here at Ideal Home, we've also tested the Shark TurboBlade Cool + Heat TH200UK, which offers similar functionality, but we much preferred it's impressive cooling capabilities to it's heat output, so if you are looking for something to provide winter comfort as well as summer cooling, I'd suggest going for the Russell Hobbs over the Shark.

As winter is finally turning a corner into spring, I’m using the heating less and less. Plus, while it is just me and my dog for a few weeks, warming radiators in rooms we’re not in or heating a whole house seems incredibly wasteful.

For me, this is the perfect time to be testing an electric heater to see if it’s more cost efficient, energy efficient and convenient than using our central heating system.

At a mid-price-point, the Dreo Atom 316 fan heater I used definitely looked like it would do the job keeping my bedroom at a comfortable temperature, but I also put it to the test warming up my open plan kitchen, living, dining area to see what it could really do and if it competes with the best electric heaters on the market.

In a nutshell

The Dreo Atom 316 electric fan heater is a super convenient size and has a far more modern design than the traditional flat and low space heaters I’m used to.

The heat output even on the lowest setting is more than enough to heat a 20m2 room within half an hour and on its higher settings, even faster. Exactly what you need when you’re braving leaving the central heating off for longer.

The cylindrical design means the heat is evenly dispersed around the room, and the recessed carry handle on the back of the surprisingly light heater meant I could easily unplug it and move it around the house.

Using the heater was pleasingly simple; it has an LED display to show the mode and good quality touch buttons to change settings the the timer. Three heat settings is more than enough, but the heater also comes with an eco mode that will automatically select the optimal power setting based on the desired ambient temperature.

While it's undoubtedly effective, I wonder how much more effective it would be if it had an oscillating function.

Specifications

• Type of heater: Ceramic fan heater
• RRP: £49.99
• Weight: 1.25kg
• Dimensions (W x H x D): 15.29 x 24.51 x 15.29cm
• Wattage: 1000W, 1300W and 1500W
• Running costs per hour (based on current energy price cap): 28p, 36p and 42p per hour
• Room size suitability: 20m2
• Smart features: None
• Dual functionality: Fan
• Oscillation: None

Unboxing, setting up and first impressions

The Dreo Atom 316 arrived in a plastic protective bag, secured by polystyrene ends in a cardboard box - a fairly simple set-up that can only partially be recycled kerb-side. The remote also comes in a plastic bag and after a simple pull tab is removed is ready to use. A handy quick start guide provides the highlights of the heater without the overwhelming information that is included in the separate manual.

The heater itself is a pleasing design that wouldn’t look out of place in a living room. Its discreet black plastic and cylindrical style could be tucked away out of the way on the floor or at counter-level. Light but sturdy, I wasn’t concerned that the heater would be knocked over by me or my dog throughout the testing period.

After plugging in, the heater was ready-to go and the LED display lights up and warming begins as soon as the power button is touched. This could be problematic for households with curious small children, but fortunately there is a child lock mode that can be set using the timer and lower temperature buttons for three seconds.

What’s it like to use?

I found the Atom 316 incredibly easy to use right from the start. To begin with I used it manually to understand the different settings better and the I noticed I didn't really use the second heat mode that much. When I was in control I would either have it at H3 to heat the room and H1 to keep it at an ambient temperature.

Manually switching between the modes may seem like a hassle, but fortunately this heater has an eco mode, which allows you to set a preferred temperature and the heater will automatically adjust the settings accordingly.

I initially used it to heat a 17m2 bedroom, and was so impressed by how quickly it heated the room, I tried it out in my open plan kitchen, dining and living room. I like a moderately warm house so I set it to 19°C when the room temperature was at 15.9°C. It took 30 minutes to reach the temperature before turning to a lower power setting.

The touch buttons are responsive, but unfortunately don’t illuminate, so it can be hard to see what’s a power button and what’s the heat mode/timer.

That's where the remote control can come in handy. However, I found it that it wasn't very sensitive and that I had to be directly facing the LED display and within about 4m of the heater for it to work effectively.

Using the remote you can also turn the display off and mute the affirming beeps that accompany changing the temperature or settings. Strangely, the child-lock setting can’t be controlled via remote and only on the heater itself. A timer setting also serves to power down the heater once lapsed.

The noise levels of the Atom 316 were pleasingly quiet, with a high of 36 decibels on the maximum setting. However, this is still higher than the advertised 34 (which is more likely on the lowest setting).

Running costs

The Dreo Atom 316 has three different heat modes — 1000W, 1300W and 1500W, which would cost around 28p, 36p and 42p per hour respectively, based on current energy price cap of 27.67p per kWh for electricity.

Considering how quick it was to heat the room using the highest setting, I would say it’s really reasonably priced way to initially heat the room and then you can use the lower setting to keep it comfortable.

Cleaning and maintenance

During the initial testing period, there was no cleaning or maintenance required, so it's definitely not something you are going to have to address on a daily or even weekly basis.

However, for the longer term efficiency of the heater, it's advisable to keep it clean and prevent dust from building up.

As with all heaters, make sure it's cool and unplugged before you give it a clean. Dreo advises using a soft, dry cloth to wipe the exterior of the heater and the rear air inlet (a cotton tipped swap can also be used on the latter to remove fine dust particles).

What do other online reviews say?

The Dreo Atom 316 is extremely well-reviewed, with many picking it to be the best fan heater on the market. It generally receives between 4.5 and 5 stars, depending on the website and I would wholeheartedly agree that this product packs a huge punch and for not a great sum of money.

Who should buy this electric heater?

I would hugely recommend this heater to anyone who wants to invest in a good quality small appliance that is well-made with decent heat options and safety modes. It offers great value for money, and it's space-saving design means it's ideal for those who want something discreet.

However if you want something similar that oscillates, then the Morphy Richards HeatFlux Ultra Thin 2kW ceramic fan tower heater could be a good alternative, thanks to its slimline design.

If smart features are more your bag, then investing a little more in a model like the Mill WiFi Max 1.5kW portable heater will get you the additional functionality you're after.

Here at Ideal Home, we've been recommending the best products for your home for more than 100 years. As Ideal Home's Renovation and Home Energy Editor, a huge part of my remit is sharing advice on how you can keep your home warm in the most energy efficient way possible. That includes reviewing a whole host of electric heaters and oil-filled radiators.

Along with my team of expert reviewers, hours and hours are spent testing these products in real home environments, paying close attention to every detail. After all, if we are recommending the best electric heaters or oil-filled radiators, we want you to be able to trust those recommendations so that you make the right decision for your home.

To help you get a clearer idea of how we test electric heaters and oil-filled radiators, I've broken down the process that every single product of this type goes through.

How we test electric heaters and oil-filled radiators at Ideal Home

There are various factors that we are looking to assess when we test electric heaters and oil-filled radiators:

• Unboxing and set up
• Looks
• Specification
• Ease of use and effectiveness
• Cleaning and maintenance
• Running costs
• How it compares with other products

How we assess unboxing and set up

If you are buying an electric heater or oil-filled radiator online, then how it arrives at your home matters. We carefully assess how effectively the appliance is packaged, and double check that it arrives in pristine condition. Sustainability is important too so we check the packaging itself and determine whether it all feels necessary and how much of it is recyclable.

We also pay close attention to how easy the heater or radiator is to get out of the packaging and set up single handedly. We also time how long it takes from getting the item out of the packaging to when it's up and running so we can give you a realistic expectation of how long it might take you.

How we assess looks

While electric heaters and oil-filled radiators are primarily functional appliances, when they are on display in your home, then their appearance will be a key part of your decision making.

That's why we make sure we test a broad range of heaters, from tiny personal plug heaters and space-saving tower heaters all the way through to modern bladeless models and characterful stove options.

How we assess the specification

We carefully track the specification details, including price, dimensions, wattage, room size suitability and additional features, of every single heater we test.

This not only means we can readily compare similar heaters to save you the hassle of having to do it yourself, but it also ensures we can check the manufacturers claims against our real world experience of the product.

How we assess ease of use and effectiveness

After we've assessed initial set up of the heater, we test the on-board control panel, as well as any remote or app controls, to determine just how intuitive they are to use.

We also look at the nuances of the controls, like switching between different heating modes or selecting different temperature outputs to see how easy it is and how quickly the heater responds. And rest assured we check every single mode and temperature scale so we fully understand the heater's full capacity.

Once it's running, we measure how long it takes to feel the benefit of the heat output, any temperature changes, as well as how long it takes to cool down once switched off. We also use a decibel meter to measure how much noise the heater makes when in us.

As heaters of this nature are also expected to be portable, we also try moving it around to different locations, paying close attention to the weight, bulk and any handles.

How we assess running costs

We understand how valuable to know how much heaters cost to run, so we make sure that we give you accurate running cost data based on the appliance's wattage and current prices under the energy price cap.

To keep those costs as low as possible, we also make sure to draw your attention to any energy monitoring capabilities and the effectiveness of any eco modes the heater may have.

How we assess cleaning and maintenance

Effective cleaning and maintenance is essential in order to keep your heater in most efficient working order. And so this is an important part of our testing process.

We check manufacturer guidelines and see how often we need to clean the heater during out initial testing window of at least two weeks.

How we compare with other products

A huge benefit of putting all of the electric heaters and oil-filled radiators through the same rigorous testing process, is that it enables us to compare them on a level playing field and helps you have real confidence in our recommendations.

We have a small group of testers, who each review a specific type of electric heater or oil-filled radiator. That means we're well-versed in these types of products and have clear understanding of what works well and what needs improvement.

We compare these heaters on a range of points, including their price, spec, running costs, wattages and overall appearance, as well as any additional features they may have such as oscillation, app control or dual purpose.

On top of that, we also assign each item we review a dedicated star rating, which is a key factor in determining whether a heater we've reviewed is impressive enough to make it into our best of the best buying guides.

This is how our star ratings work:

• 5 stars - a supremely impressive electric heater that exceeds our expectations and cannot be faulted in any way.
• 4.5 stars - an impressive electric heater, but it leaves us wanting a bit more, so it doesn’t quite hit the 5-star mark.
• 4 stars - a high-quality electric heater that is worth your money but may need some fine-tuning before it suits every customer and every home.
• 3 stars - a good electric heater that works well but doesn't blow us away with its specs or price tag. In some cases, it may not heat a room as effectively as competitors.
• 2 stars - an affordable electric heater that will suit all budgets but is under-specced and lacks key heating features.
• 1 star - we would not recommend this electric heater, as it is underwhelming and does not work as intended.

Our reviewers

Read our latest reviews

• Dreo Smart Whole Room 714S electric heater review
• Mill WiFi Max 1500W portable electric heater review
• Duux Edge 2000W oil-filled radiator review
• VonHaus Electric Stove & Log Store review
• Morphy Richards HeatFlux Ultra Thin 2kW ceramic tower fan heater review

You'll find full details of the Ideal Home review process on our how we test page, including how we put mattresses, air fryers, vacuum cleaners and more, through their paces to bring you our top recommendations.

Not everyone wants to keep their central heating running all day long – let's face it, energy bills can skyrocket during these winter months. That said, sitting with your teeth chattering under layers of blankets isn't always too appealing either – which is where other forms of heater can come in handy.

If you are able to get your hands on one of the best oil-filled radiators out there you can expect many benefits. They are a great way to heat just a single room, are easy to transport around the house when needed and have come on in leaps in bounds both in terms of their appearance as well as their efficiency.

However, understanding how oil-filled radiators work is vital if you want to make the most of yours and ensure you are not simply adding to your home energy costs. I took a closer look into exactly how these heating appliances work to heat a house, as well as how much electricity they guzzle while doing so.

How do oil-filled radiators work?

First things first, lets take a look at how oil-filled radiators work – thankfully, it is actually pretty simple.

They run off electricity and are made up of a collection of fins, the number of which can vary – generally, the bigger the unit and the more fins there are, the greater the heat output although with some more modern models this won't always be the case.

Oil-filled radiators, as the name suggests, are filled with a thermal oil that gets heated up by an internal element. This is a little different to standard radiators that are part of a central heating system as these are filled with water that has been heated up outside of the unit by a boiler.

They are a form of convection heater, meaning they transfer heat to the air, rather than to an object or person (as is the case with infrared heaters).

Shop oil-filled radiators

How long does it take an oil-filled radiator to heat up a room?

For many people, the speed at which a heater can heat up a room is really important – after all, you hardly want it to sit there using your electricity and feel no benefits for ages. But while oil-filled radiators may not deliver instant results, their heat retention is impressive.

'An oil-filled radiator doesn’t heat a room instantly, as the internal oil needs time to heat up before it can effectively start transferring heat into the room,' explains Olivia Marshall, product manager at online heating, bathroom and kitchen specialist Plumbworld. 'It can take around 10-15 minutes to heat up and you’ll start to notice the room gradually warming up from as little as 20 minutes, depending on the size of the area. Other factors that could impact heating time include the heater wattage, whether the room is well insulated, air circulation and the starting temperature inside.

'Using a fan heater is great for a quick burst of heat in a room, however they often have a very limited reach and don’t heat up the whole room evenly when compared to an oil-filled radiator,' points out Olivia.

How long do oil-filled radiators stay warm for after you turn them off?

Standard radiators don't go cold as soon as the heating goes off – and neither do oil-filled radiators immediately feel cold to the touch when switched off.

'An oil-filled radiator will stay warm for between 1.5 and 2.5 hours after it’s been turned off, thanks to the heat-retaining oil,' reveals Liz Hunter, commercial director at MoneyExpert – but how does this compare to the best electric heaters out there?

'A fan or electric heater provides instant heat by blowing out hot air, but doesn’t tend to retain it and will usually cool down almost instantly after it's switched off,' explains Liz. 'This means it’s better for heating a smaller area, such as a bathroom or home office.'

'Although oil-filled radiators do take longer to heat up than fan heaters, they provide a more consistent heat and retain warmth long after they are turned off,' adds Olivia Marshall. 'This means you’ll be able to turn it off completely and continue to feel the warmth, without paying for any more electricity.'

FAQs

Do oil-filled radiators use a lot of electricity?

One of the main things people ask about this type of heater is whether electric heaters are cheaper to run than central heating – or will they see household bills soar?

'The cost of using an oil-filled radiator ultimately depends on its wattage, your electricity rate, room size, insulation, and how often you use it,' picks up Liz Hunter. 'Larger spaces or poorly insulated rooms, for example, need more energy to heat and maintain a comfortable temperature. However, they’re generally more energy-efficient than most options. Their efficiency comes from using thermal oil to slowly retain and radiate heat, making them good for consistent, long-term warmth rather than quick bursts.'

'It’s important to choose an oil-filled radiator that is suitable for the room you want to heat,' adds Olivia Marshall. 'A large room will likely need a radiator with 1500W or more, compared with a small room that may only need 500W.

'A 500W oil-filled radiator used for 3 hours could cost around 42p in electricity, or £12.63 per month,' continues Olivia. 'A more powerful 1500W radiator could cost £1.25 per day and £37.90 per month. The higher the wattage, the more you will pay more in electricity, so it’s important to find an oil-filled radiator that’s most efficient and effective when heating a room.'

Can you buy wall-mounted oil-filled radiators?

While the most recognisable form of oil-filled radiators tend to be those on castors, ready to be wheeled around the house as and when required, they do come in other forms – and these modern oil-filled radiators tend to look far more stylish than the models of old.

Not only do modern offerings offer all kinds of smart heating features, such as being WiFi enabled in order for homeowners to control them from outside the house using a smart device, but they can also be wall-mounted, just like a standard radiator.

These wall-mounted models come in all shapes, sizes and colours too meaning it will be easy to find one to suit your particular needs.

Whether you are renovating, extending or simply updating a house, it really is a good idea to familiarise yourself with all the different types of heating system on offer. You could find you are paying more than you need or that your current system isn't the most effective for your home and needs.

While the wet weather has meant we've seen slightly milder temperatures, it's definitely not time to pack away your portable heater just yet.

Frosty mornings and sub-zero evenings might have been few and far between this winter, but it's definitely not warm enough to go without the central heating. And for those who find themselves at home in the day, you might still find yourself a little chilly between your heating's scheduled on and off times. That's where one of the best electric heaters can be incredibly handy, giving you a targeted burst of heat, just in the room you need it when you start to feel chilly.

But if you do choose to complement your central heating this way, how long should you actually have the portable heater on for, and is it possible to have it on for too long? As someone who's been writing about home heating for the best part of two decades, this is what I'd recommend.

How long should an electric heater be on for?

There's no hard and fast rule for how long you can use an electric heater for, but generally, these appliances are designed for occasional rather than constant use.

That means if you want to take the edge off a cold room in between periods when your central heating's on, a 20-30 minute blast of your electric heater a few of times a day may be all you need. On particularly chilly days, then having your heater on for a 2-3 hours in the room you are in can be a relatively efficient way to use your electric heater, especially if it's a model that reduced it's power consumption when the desired temperature is reached.

However, this timeframe largely depends on how powerful your heater is, how well insulated your home is, and how big the room is that you are trying to heat. If you have a suitably sized electric heater for the size of room, and you're using it in a well-insulated space with doors and windows closed to prevent the heat your generating from escaping, you'll may find you are plenty warm enough after about 15 minutes of your heater running.

On the other hand, if you feel like you need the heater on constantly and you're still cold, then it's worth assessing your set up to check whether it's best suiting your needs. It may be that your electric heater isn't powerful enough to adequately heat the room you are in, and it's struggling and using more energy that it needs to as it tries.

It's worth also checking that you've not got any obvious draughts that mean cold air is coming in from outside, and the lovely warmth from your heater is just escaping straight out of your home.

If you've checked for and resolved any draughts and your heater is appropriate for the size of room, and you're finding you need your heater on for long periods of time (and it's not as a result of any health concerns you may have), then it may be a sign that your wall or roof insulation is failing and it needs assessing by a professional.

Need to upgrade your electric heater?

If you have an old inefficient heater, or yours is unsuitable for the space you want to heat, upgrading means you'll get more effective heat output and potentially some eco-friendly features too.

How long is too long to have your portable electric heater on for?

If you are finding you want to use your portable electric heater for hours on end, every day during the winter, then that's definitely not the best way to use it.

If you notice your heater making any strange noises, emitting any strange smells or struggling to maintain a steady temperature, then that can be a sign it's time to switch it off for a bit. If it happens consistently, then an upgrade may be necessary.

Needing to use the appliance for that long usually means that your property is struggling to hold on to heat, and that's definitely not ideal from an energy efficiency perspective. There may also be safety issues around overheating, which is just one of the reasons it's not advisable to use an electric heater overnight.

Plus, this is a very expensive way to use an electric heater. Based on the January 2026 energy price cap, portable electric heaters, which tend to have wattages between 1000 and 2500W, will cost between 28 and 69p per hour to run. So they're not cheap, especially when used for long periods. That's why they are best used as an occasional complement to a gas central heating system, rather than as a primary source of heat.

Even if you only use yours occasionally, there are still steps you can take to make them more cost effective. 'Using built-in thermostat, timer or eco settings can further reduce running costs,' explains Stuart Middleton, Consumer Energy Expert at So Energy. 'Setting the heater to the lowest comfortable temperature rather than running it at full power continuously, and programming it to switch off automatically, can prevent unnecessary usage.'

FAQs

Heating my uninsulated 1970s extension can be quite the chore and pretty expensive using our 30 year-old oil boiler. I work from home through the week, so I always feel especially bad using radiators that are linked together to heat the open plan space I call my temporary office (the dining table) during the day and my bedroom at night.

While it's wise to use the best electric heaters in a well-insulated space if you want to use it for long periods, the fact that part of my home is currently uninsulated actually means I need all the help I can get keeping warm. And so I put the extremely affordable Abode Horizontal and Vertical Fan Heater through it's paces.

In a nutshell

One of the most affordable electric heaters on the market, Abode’s Horizontal and Vertical Fan Heater has a basic design and control panel, which is to be expected with a sub-£15 price point.

It has a simple dial to turn between off, fan, low and high, which means it's incredibly quick to set up and simple to use. In terms of heat output, it did manage to keep it a pretty consistent temperature once it was going, although I found it look a little longer to heat up than I anticipated.

While I appreciate how budget friendly it is, I did find that is was a little unstable when positioned in vertical mode, and so preferred to use it in horizontal mode instead, especially with a curious dog around.

Specification

• Type of heater: Fan heater
• RRP: £14.99
• Weight: 1.15kg
• Dimensions (W x H x D): 24.5 x 24.4 x 11.5cm
• Wattage: 1000-2000W
• Running costs per hour (based on current energy price cap): 28-56p
• Room size suitability: 20m2 (although after testing, I would say it's better in rooms less than 15m2)
• Smart features: N/A
• Dual functionality: Fan
• Oscillation: None

Unboxing, setting up and first impressions

The Abode Horizontal and Vertical Fan Heater arrived in a fairly basic, compact package with simple polystyrene mould to keep it in place and a plastic bag (that can be recycled at supermarkets) to protect the cord and heater. It was extremely easy to set up, I simply unpackaged, plugged in and turned it on. As there are no special features or remotes to get to grips with, the instructions were clear.

The only thing I was slightly confused about was how to stand the heater up. The heater is marketed to be horizontal and vertical standing - the instructions also have a diagram showing the heater standing vertically - but when stood vertically I felt it was a little unstable. After a few times knocking it over, I found having it flat on the floor was much sturdier.

What’s it like to use?

Something I really appreciated about this heater is it's ease of use. I don’t think it’s possible to mess up using this heater, after all the control dial offers only three settings, fan, low and high. I used it in a room slightly smaller (17m2) than the recommended maximum room size of 20m2 and after three hours the room temperature had increased by around 4°C (15.1°C to 18.3°C). For the very affordable price tag, you don't get a lot of nuance when it comes to temperature control, but the different settings do allow you to customise the heat output to an extent.

While switching between the modes on the appliance itself was not a problem for me, it may not be suitable for someone with accessibility concerns.

As there is no oscillating function, the position of the heater is fairly crucial to optimise warmth. For instant heat, I found that you do need the fan heater pointed directly at you, otherwise you're waiting for the whole room to warm gradually, which means it'll take longer for you to feel the benefits. Fortunately the heater's design is compact enough to position exactly where I need it.

As this is a fan heater, I was expecting a bit of noise as the fan works to push the heat out. I measured this at 49dB, which is comparable with the hum of a fridge. Whether this bothers you will depend on your tolerance of and sensitivity to noise. I found it a bit distracting as I was trying to work, but you'd definitely still be able to hold a conversation with someone else while this fan heater is whirring in the background without having to raise your voice.

With any electric heater or oil-filled radiator, you can expect a bit of a strange smell when you first use it, and that normally disappears after 10 minutes or so, but I felt that I still noticed it even after a week of daily use.

Running costs

This Abode fan heater has two settings 1000W and 2000W that will impact how much it costs to run it. Given the current energy price cap at 27.69p per kWh, it will cost approximately 28p an hour to run on the lowest setting and 56p on the highest.

With no eco mode or efficiency features available, it definitely isn’t the cheapest heating solution when running for hours on end, so it's definitely best used as a complement to a central heating system, for a burst of heat when needed rather than as a primary heat source.

Cleaning and maintenance

When I first turned on the heater I could smell burning dust for a few hours so I switched it off and used a dry microfibre cloth to clean these slots and dampened it a little for the surface of the heater and let it dry before using it again.

Fortunately this should be all that's needed to keep this little heater running properly. In order to keep it running properly. Long-term, I could see the white plastic design showing the dust, but it does also come in black which may disguise any potential discolouration.

Who should buy this electric heater?

If you are looking to for an extremely affordable electric heater for a small home office or sitting room used during the day in more temperate seasons, I would say this is suitable buy that does exactly what you would expect from a traditional fan heater.

However, if you are willing to spend a little bit more, you could get some increased functionality that is well worth the spend. For example, with a slightly higher RRP of £49.99, the Dreo Atom 316 heater, also has a compact and portable design but offers much more accurate temperature control, can heat larger spaces (up to 30m2), and comes with a remote control that means it's much better suited to those who may have mobility issues.

Another space-saving option would be the Morphy Richards Heatflux Ultra Thin 2kW tower fan heater. It has a RRP of £99.99, but you can get it at multiple retailers for a good £20 cheaper. While this is a step up in price point from the £15 Abode model, that additional investment gets you an sleek oscillating design, eco mode, temperature control and quick heat up of spaces up to 20m2.

If, like me, you spend a lot of time at home during the day, you too might baulk at the idea of having to have your central heating on near constantly in order to keep warm.

That's where investing in one of the best electric heaters can be a wise choice. They can provide a quick burst of heat in the room you are in, meaning you don't have to heat your whole house unnecessarily.

But there is a lot of choice out there, which can make it hard to know which is the right option for you. As someone who writes about all aspects of heating, and reviews electric heaters for a living, these are the questions to ask yourself to choose the right product for your home.

1. How quickly do you want it to heat up and cool down?

One of the first questions to ask yourself is how quickly you want your chosen appliance to generate heat and how long you want it to retain heat for. This is where it's best to understand the differences between electric heaters and oil-filled radiators.

If you are after instant heat, then an oil-filled radiator definitely isn't for you as it takes a bit of time for the thermal oil inside to get up to temperature. Instead a fan heater will be a much better choice, especially if you choose one that oscillates. 'Fan heaters and tower heaters are the perfect choice if you want quick heat while you are present in the room,' says Elise Reiten, R&D Manager of Mill Heating. 'They are usually small and light weight and can easily be moved around where you need heating, as well as they are easy to store away during summer.'

On the other hand, if you want an appliance that continues to kick out heat after you've turned it off, then an oil-filled radiator is actually the best choice thanks to it's heat retention properties.

Remember too that you'll need to position your heater correctly in order to get the best heat output.

2. How comfortable are you with noise?

If you have any noise sensitivity, or are easily distracted by unusual sounds, then it's a good idea to choose a heater that is silent in operation.

That means avoiding a fan heater, which depending on the model and power setting can emit sounds that are more than noticeable, and instead opting for a convection heater.

'If you want a heater that quickly heats the room quietly, a portable convection heater with wire heating element is the best choice for you,' says Elise. 'It is not as fast as a heater with a fan that forces the air circulation quickly, but it is almost as fast and has the benefit that it dries the air less than fan heaters. They are powerful, yet operates quietly, and are light weight and easy to move around.'

Oil-filled radiators are also silent in operation, but are slower to heat up than a convection heater.

3. Do you want to be able to control the heater from your phone?

If you love being able to control various aspects of your home from your phone, whether you are home or not, then a smart electric heater could be right up your street.

Whether you want to turn the heater on just before you get home so it's warm when you walk in, or you want to check you've turned it off when you leave, being able to control your electric heater via an app is very handy indeed.

Beyond that, many smart models come with energy monitoring features, open window detection and can automatically reduce energy consumption when the desired temperature is reached. All of which will help you use your electric heater in the most energy efficient way possible.

'Think of portable electric heaters as a top-up rather than your main source of heating,' says Stuart Middleton, Consumer Energy Expert at So Energy. 'They’re great for warming up a room for a short period, but pairing them with warmer clothing, blankets and simple energy-saving habits will keep you cosy while keeping your bills in check.'

4. Do you have allergies?

For those with allergies, or who hate the idea of the air in their home becoming uncomfortably dry, then it's best to avoid a fan heater that could move dust an allergens around, and dry the air out.

Instead there are a a few alternative options that may suit. Firstly, you could look at a ceramic heater. 'The gentlest fan heaters have a ceramic PTC heating element, says Elise. 'The gentle PTC heating element has a lower surface temperature than normal fan heaters with heating wires. This means that the heater will burn less dust and not dry the air as regular fan heaters do.'

Secondly, you could choose an oil-filled radiator, as Elise goes on to explain: 'Oil filled radiators have the heating element encapsulated, meaning it is not in direct contact with surrounding air and will not burn dust, nor dry the air. This makes oil filled radiators a great choice for people with allergies, or people that simply want a heating source that is good for the indoor climate.'

Another option for allergy sufferers is to look for a heater/air purifier hybrid that will keep you warm and remove pollutants from the air at the same time.

5. Are you looking for a permanent or temporary solution?

It's worth also asking yourself whether you want a portable heater that you can move around your home, and pack away for the summer, or a permanent option that remains in place all year.

If you're after something more permanent, then a wall-mounted option, like the Ecostrad iQ Ceramic WiFi Controlled Electric Radiator, £299.99 from Electric Radiators Direct is a good idea. It can either be freestanding or attached to the wall if you want to keep your floors free from potential trip hazards.

Alternatively, you could try an electric stove style heater than makes an attractive focal point.

6. How big is the room you want to heat?

Once you've narrowed down the type of electric heater you want, you need to ensure that you choose a suitably powered model for the room you want to heat.

Get one too small and it will struggle to heat the space effectively, too big and it will use more energy than you need it too, and you may find you get uncomfortably hot.

A good rule of thumb to follow is to allow around 100W per m2 of space you are trying to heat.

Before you make your final decision, make sure you quadruple check what you should know before buying an electric heater so you're as well-informed as possible.

In the past, electric fan heaters suffered a bit of a bad rep, often being viewed as unattractive, bulky energy guzzlers that were only really any good for creating little hot spots and posing something of a fire hazard to boot.

The days of course things have moved on and the best electric heaters are now seen as a really useful method of heating up a room fast – plus they come with all kinds of nifty features that mean they don't have to result in eye-watering energy bills.

That said, not all are created equal. As a someone who works from a very cold house, and who regularly suffers numb fingers and toes, I couldn't wait to test out this offering from Morphy Richards and I definitely wasn't disappointed – this is nothing like the fan heaters of old and really has transformed my working days. Might it be the right kind of electric heater for you? Read on to find out.

In a nutshell

Smart, slimline and simple to use, this lightweight tower fan heater blended into my home seamlessly, unlike my old clunky white model which I would shuffle out of sight when guests came around.

It can be controlled via the touch-screen control panel or by a nifty little remote, both of which are pleasingly sparse in terms of buttons. That said, don't let the lack of knobs and dials fool you into thinking this fan is short on attributes – it really isn't. While it might not have any smart features, it offers a timer function which is really easy to get to grips with, an eco mode that helps you avoid wasting heat and energy and three heat settings.

The fact that it can be set to oscillate was a huge bonus for me and would be for anyone wanting a good, even distribution of heat, say, in an open plan space like the one I was testing it in .

How I tested the fan

Specification

• Type of heater: Fan heater
• RRP: £100
• Weight: 2.8kg
• Dimensions: (W x H x D): 18.7cm x 65.8cm x 23.3cm
• Wattage: 2kW
• Running costs per hour: £0.55 - £0.56p/kWh
• Room size suitability: 20m2
• Smart features? N/A
• Dual functionality? None
• Oscillation? Yes

Unboxing, setting up and first impressions

The Morphy Richards HEATFLUX came really nicely packaged and I was pleasantly surprised when I took it off the doorstep at how lightweight it was to bring inside, even while still in its box.

On opening up the box it was not only a huge relief to see that there were minimum components to get to grips with, but also that the packaging itself had been kept to a minimum. No polystyrene, three cardboard support pieces, two slim cardboard boxes housing the plug and base and just two plastic bags. The cardboard will actually come in handy as firelighters.

On removing the fan from the box I was struck again by how lightweight it is – plus, it has a carry handle at the top. It is a nice mid-grey shade that will blend in easily with all kinds of room decor and it's super slimline too.

In terms of set-up, all that was required was for me to click the tower section onto the base. I have to say, to begin with my brain didn't quite register how to do this and there weren't any guidelines in the user manual that had come in the box. However, after fiddling around for a couple of minutes, I realised that I was trying to put the base on upside-down – after this it clicked on really smoothly and I was good to go.

What’s it like to use?

I am going to start with a little scene setting here. My house is old and very cold – pretty much year-round, but I am testing this fan heater in February meaning it is particularly chilly right now. When I come downstairs in the morning the thermostat tends to read around 16°C in the open plan kitchen/diner/snug I sit at my laptop in.

To get going, you simply plug the fan in and use the switch located on the back to turn the unit on – after which the fan will enter standby mode. The fan can then be controlled using either the smart touch screen control panel on the front of the unit, or via the little remote control, which came fitted with the battery, ready to use. Both are pretty much self-explanatory thanks to the clear symbols but the user manual is also easy to follow.

Along with the on/off switch, there are controls for the timer, temperature, control panel lights (handy if you want the display to go dark at nighttime) and swing function.

When you turn the the fan on using the standby on/off switch, it starts at the default temperature of 35°C and at low power. You can then change the temperature and the power setting. There are three power settings to choose from – 'low', 'high' and 'cooling'. I started using the high setting but soon found that 'low' worked just fine, even in my open plan space.

In terms of noise levels, the fan runs at 45dB. Once it is up and running, the fan gives off what I would call a gentle-to-mid level hum, perhaps just a notch higher than that given off by a fan oven when it is on, but lower than a dehumidifier.

It heats up within minutes. I decided to place it in the snug area of the open plan space, in a position I felt would give the most even distribution of heat. I then set it to oscillate – and if you have an open plan space I would highly recommend this as it made such a difference in a very short space of time. Personally I would have preferred the cable length to be a little more generous in order to get even of a more central position within the room.

Something I really like – as did my husband, who is very much a 'just put another layer on' type of person in the face of a cold house – is the ECO mode. When you select this the heater will automatically adjust the heating power based on the room's temperature – if the temperature sits between 18 - 25°C it runs at low power, if it rises above 25°C all functions go off, and when the temperature is less than 18°c the fan runs at high power. Simple.

As we have pets and two ever-so-slightly clumsy teenagers, one of whom likes to chuck his rugby ball about indoors, I was a bit worried that the tower design might prove a little unstable. However, the base has a good weight to it and should it tip over, it automatically shuts off.

Finally, there is also a 'cooling mode' – obviously right now I don't need this but it is designed to keep the room temperature at 7°C which could be useful in the summer months. I could only get this to work using the control panel, not with the remote.

Running costs

Just like any kind of electrical appliance, the running costs of this fan depend on the power setting you use, the length of time you use it and your electricity costs.

Based on the January 2026 energy price cap figure of 27.69p per kilowatt hour, this means that to run the fan for one hour at high power costs roughly 55p. Turn it to low power or ECO and you could be looking at running costs as low as 36p per hour.

While this doesn't sound like much, if you were running it all day long, every day, in addition to your central heating, costs could soon add up so it is best reserved for a quick blast of heat first thing in the morning. The timer function is really useful here too. I could set it to come on for an hour before getting up in the morning and come down to a nice warm kitchen.

Cleaning and maintenance

The mid-grey matte finish of the fan means it shows up dirt far less easily than my old white fan heater. A quick wipe over with a dry cloth removes any dust from the front grille although I wonder if, over time, dust could build up in this grille – in which case a quick once-over with the vacuum nozzle would probably do the trick.

Removing the filter from the rear is easy. Just click it off. It isn't a soft filter like you might expect to find in a vacuum, so washing and drying it is a quick, simple affair.

What do other online reviews say?

The reviews for this tower heater are, in the main, really positive. Like me, users seem to love the slimline design and how lightweight it is, as well as appreciating its unobtrusive appearance. Before this fan, I had a smaller white one that really did nothing for the decor in my home, but you wouldn't really notice the Morphy Richards model tucked into a corner, oscillating away.

There were a few negative reviews, of course, and I did agree with a couple of these. One was cord length – like me, some found it could do with being longer and I wouldn't want to be pulling out extension leads in order to get it sitting more centrally.

A few reviewers felt that the heat it produced wasn't well distributed but I can honestly say I didn't find this to be the case – quite the opposite in fact.

Who should buy this electric heater?

If, like me, you work from home, or live in a chilly old house that could benefit from a burst of heat to take the edge off periodically, I don't think you can go far wrong with the Morphy Richards HEATFLUX Ultra Thin 2kW Ceramic Tower Fan Heater.

Yes it is more expensive than some other models on the market, but what you get for that extra initial output is something that looks stylish and smart and offers settings that can save you from wasting energy.

Even in my open plan space I felt a really welcome and noticeable difference when using this and, when I closed the doors leading off to other rooms, the heat felt like it stayed in too.

Being a fan heater though, it doesn't retain heat once turned off in the same way as your radiators might. If you want something portable that does, you would be better off looking at some of the best oil-filled radiators out there such as the VonHaus Oil Filled Radiatoror, if you like the idea of a portable heater with some smart features that lets you control it when you are not at home, the Dreo Smart 9 Fins Oil Filled Radiator is a brilliant choice.

You could be forgiven for thinking that electric heaters should be felt rather than seen. After all, models of old were definitely more functional than attractive.

While the best electric heaters have improved over the years, with sleeker and more contemporary designs becoming the norm, there are few that are genuinely beautiful enough to become features of your home in there own right.

Enter the VonHaus Electric Stove & Log Store that offers a convincing and affordable alternative to a log-burning stove. I put it through it's paces to see if it's worth the investment and help you decide if it's the right kind of electric heater for you.

In a nutshell

I love the idea of a log-burning stove, but for a multitude of reasons, it's never really felt like a feasible option for my home. And so I was thrilled to test out the VonHaus Electric Stove & Log Store, that evokes a similar feeling, without any of the installation hassle or the price tag in the thousands.

And it didn't disappoint! Friends and family have oo-ed and ahh-ed over it, and I love that it feels like a characterful focal point in my home. I was impressed with the heat output, and even though it's not silent in operation when you have the heat on, it's definitely not obnoxiously loud.

While you could technically move this into different rooms as and when you wanted to, it's quite heavy and there are no easy handles, so you'd need a couple of people. And with it's sizable dimensions, you might prefer to pick a suitable spot for it and leave it there.

Specification

• Type of heater: Fan heater/ electric stove
• RRP: £229.99
• Weight: 11.5kgs
• Dimensions (W x H x D): 44.5cm x 74.5cm x 32cm
• Wattage: 1,000-2,000W
• Running costs per hour: 27.69 – 55.38p/kWh
• Room size suitability: 28m2
• Smart features? N/A
• Dual functionality: None
• Oscillation: None

Unboxing, setting up and first impressions

I was a little bit daunted when I saw the size of the box that landed on my doorstep when the Vonhaus Electric Stove arrived, but fortunately there was a smaller box inside, along with some polystyrene supports that meant it arrived in pristine condition. The packaging in mostly cardboard, all of which is easily recycled.

At 11.5kgs, it's quite heavy to remove from the box, so I carefully put the box on it's side and gently manoeuvred it out of the packaging. There's not really any suitable hand-holds to grab on to near the top, so to set it the right way up, I felt I was using the tips of my fingers to try and carry it, which I wouldn't recommend. Definitely try and get a helping hand to aid you in moving it to your desired spot.

Looks-wise, the stove is beautiful. It's a matt black with three glass panels, one on each side and one on the front, with a faux door handle for decoration. Underneath the subtle grill where the heat comes out, there is a shelf where you can add logs (not included) to really lean in to the log-burner aesthetic. I've left mine empty for the time being as I have a curious and stick-loving puppy who would love nothing more than a decorative log to chew on.

In terms of set-up, I loved how easy it was. Especially after I was testing this after testing a smart electric heater that involved a fair amount of digital set up. For this one, I could simply plug it into the wall and switch it on! The power cable is of a decent length, although while the official specs state that this is 1.9m, when I measured it, it was more like 1.7m.

What’s it like to use?

Although the VonHaus Electric Stove can't be controlled by your smart phone (unless you use it a smart plug), it is really easy to use. The controls are so simple, you really can't go wrong.

The control panel for this electric stove heater is located on the back. There are three switches; one to turn on the flame effect, one to turn on 1,000W of heat, and another which will kick the heat output up to 2,000W. In addition, there's a dial to adjust the temperature.

First off you can turn on the flame effect without having the heat on, which creates a lovely ambience whatever the weather. It's a realistic flicker, and the three glass panels on the heater mean you can see it from multiple angles which is a lovely touch.

When you turn the heat on, there is a noticeable hum of the fan, but my decibel reader measured this to be between 51 and 54dB which it states is the equivalent of gentle background noise. When I put the heater on while I was watching the TV, I didn't have to adjust the TV's volume to compensate.

Flip the second heat switch on along with the first, and the heat output kicks up a notch (although I didn't notice a change in the sound of the fan, which I thought was impressive).

The heat comes through quickly, so it's not long at all before the whole room is feeling toasty.

I located the stove heater in the corner of the room, with nothing above it, so I found it quite easy to flip the switches, but a couple of times I had to shift if forward to adjust the dial. That was easy enough for me. But should you want to site it in a nook or alcove with anything above, then you may find it a bit more fiddly to reach the controls.

From a safety point of view, this model has an auto-shut off function that prevents it from overheating, which gives added peace of mind. It feels sturdy when in place (on my LVT floor), so it doesn't feel like it will easily topple, but as it isn't designed to be fixed to a wall, I'd keep an eye on kids and pets around it as it's quite heavy.

I also appreciated that the unit itself doesn't get hot when the heat is on, staying cool to the touch. The grill where the heat comes out does get warm, and is warm to the touch for a few minutes afterwards.

Running costs

As with any device or appliance that is powered by electricity, how much it costs to run will depend on how much power it uses, how long you use it for and how much you pay for your energy.

For the sake of this review, I'll use the January 2026 energy price cap figure of 27.69p per kilowatt hour as the cost of electricity, which is correct at the time of writing.

If you were to use the VonHaus Electric Stove & Log Store on it's highest power setting for one hour, it would cost you just over 55p. Use the lower power setting, and it'll cost just over 27p. Just use the flame effect lights and it will cost you even less.

With all electric heaters, they are not designed to be used as a primary heat source, so consider them boosts to your central heating rather than a replacement. If you're home is particularly draughty, it's a good idea to address the draughts before you buy this heater so that you can get maximum benefits in the most cost-effective way.

Cleaning and maintenance

Apart from getting a bit dusty and maybe showing the odd fingerprint, there's not a lot of cleaning or maintenance required for this stove heater. A quick dust with a clean cloth is all that I've needed to do so far.

For it's longevity, I make sure to keep liquids away from it, keep the cable tucked away so it's not a trip hazard and check that there's nothing around that could fall on or against it (it's sturdy, so I don't think it would crumple like a piece of paper, but I love it so much I wouldn't want to chance it).

Who should buy the VonHaus Electric Stove & Log Store?

If you want an electric heater that delivers on both the looks and heat front, then I don't think you can go wrong with the Vonhaus Electric Stove & Log Store. Similarly, if you love the look of a log burning stove but can't afford one or it wouldn't be suitable for your home, then this really is the next best thing. You'll get the realistic appearance (especially with the log-store feature) without the hassle or price tag, plus a decent heat output.

This is also a characterful choice for those who live in period homes and where a super sleek modern style heater would stick out like a sore thumb.

However, if you want something you can easily move from room to room, then I don't think this is the option for you. While it is technically portable, the large dimensions mean it's more of a hassle to move around than something like the Dreo Smart Whole Room Heater 714S. It's also not the option if you are after a space-saving model — instead the Morphy Richards HeatFlux Ultra Thin 2kw Ceramic Tower Fan Heater might be more suitable.

Finally, while you could of course pair the VonHaus Electric Stove with a smart plug, if you want something with more smart capabilities, then you could try the Mill WiFi Max 1500W portable heater, which has a similar price point, instead.

Understanding how long an oil-filled radiator will last and how you can maximise it's lifespan is surprisingly important.

After all, if you are looking to buy one of the best oil-filled radiators, it'll feel like a waste to invest in something if it will only last you a couple of years, even if you only use it occasionally. On the other hand, you might feel like you don't want to invest in something if it may not last, which may mean that you end up with an unsuitable model that you feel stuck with for years to come. Worse still, you may end up replacing it with a different model that it turns out you should have bought in the first place.

To help, I asked heating appliance pros how long your oil-filled radiator should last, what kind of maintenance can help it last longer, and how you know when it really is time for a replacement.

What's the lifespan of an oil-filled radiator?

The good news is that an oil-filled radiator is definitely in it for the long haul, lasting more than a decade. That means it's definitely worth shopping wisely.

'Oil-filled radiators last ages,' says Sam Carter, radiator expert at Appliances Direct. 'Most high-quality units have a lifespan of 10-15 years and as they don't have any moving parts, there isn't really any wear and tear happening.'

Alex Litcan, category manager at De'Longhi, agrees: 'For many of our customers, moving house is a more frequent occurrence than replacing their radiator.'

So if you are thinking of investing in an oil-filled radiator, it's worth thinking about opting for a futureproof model. Looking for an option that includes eco modes, digital displays, smart tech or even cable tidies, can help your radiator last as long as it can, and keep your energy usage under control for the duration of it's lifespan at the same time.

Shop oil-filled radiators

What kind of maintenance does it need?

While there's plenty to think about before you buy an oil-filled radiator, make sure you don't underestimate the importance of adequate maintenance. These are the simple maintenance steps you can take to keep your oil-filled radiator working most efficiently for as long as possible:

• Keep it dust-free. Wipe over the fins regularly to prevent dust-build up which can impact how well and evenly your oil-filled radiator heats.
• Avoid dings and dents. Any damage to the heater can affect its efficacy, so take extra care when moving it around your home, or when children or pets are nearby. Make sure nothing can fall on it, and that the cable is tucked out of the way so it's not a trip hazard. Serious damage may also cause a leak, so best avoided.
• Store it properly. 'Always store the unit upright during the summer months to ensure the oil remains settled and ready for its next use,' says Alex.

Do you have to replace the oil in an oil-filled radiator?

You definitely don't need to change the oil in an oil-filled radiator so you can cross that off your maintenance list.

'While you don’t really need to do much to keep an oil-filled radiator in good working order, they are sealed units and the oil inside is designed to last for the lifetime of the heater,' explains Sam.

'Our radiators are permanently sealed for life,' adds Alex. 'We use a high-grade thermodynamic oil specifically engineered for optimal heat dispersion, meaning you never have to worry about the internal mechanics.'

What are the signs you need to replace your oil-filled radiator?

Even if your oil-filled radiator is designed to last for years, it's still worthwhile knowing the signs to look out for that it's finally time to replace it.

• It's no longer heating evenly. 'If the unit has 'cold spots' or provides uneven heat distribution, the oil may no longer be circulating effectively,' explains Alex.
• You've spotted a leak or signs of rust. 'Visible leaks are a clear sign that suggests your oil-filled radiator might need replacing,' adds Sam. 'Look out for oil leaks on the appliance itself or on the floor beneath. Whilst the oil is non-toxic, it can create slip hazards and may be hot to the touch.' Signs of rust may also mean that the exterior is damaged, which could lead to leaks in the not-too-distant future.
• You notice unusual odours. 'Modern oil-filled radiators should be odourless,' says Alex. 'Any persistent, strange smells are a sign that the unit’s integrity may be compromised.'
• It's making strange noises when in use. 'Another sign is persistent gurgling,' continues Sam. 'Whilst the system should be sealed and intact, gurgling noises could mean that air has gotten in, making the device less efficient at heating the room. Unlike with central heating appliances, though, do not attempt to bleed oil-filled radiators.'
• You see signs of physical wear. If any of the controls stop working, then that's a clear sign it's time for a replacement. 'If the wheels or handles become damaged, affecting mobility, it may be safer to upgrade to a new model to ensure stable, secure heating,' concludes Alex.

FAQs

Make sure you understand the difference between an oil-filled radiator and electric heater before you settle on one type over the other. You'll want to be sure you choose the right option for your home and needs.

Electric heaters are nothing new, but with more and more models coming to market boasting a whole host of smart features, there's more choice than ever. But how do you know if a smart appliance like this is the right choice for your home?

If you are going to invest in one of the best electric heaters, then you'll obviously want to make sure it suits your home and budget, but beyond that, choosing one with smart features could help you reduce it's energy consumption and therefore lower its running costs at the same time.

I asked the pros why they thought smart electric heaters were a good idea, which smart features were the most useful, and who these smart features are best suited to. This is what they told me.

Is it worth getting a smart electric heater?

If it's within your budget, then a smart electric heater is definitely worth it, but only if you use it to complement your central heating rather than as a complete substitute. 'Where they work well is heating one room you actually use, rather than turning the whole system on,' explains Patrick Garner, Gas Safe Engineer at Heatable.

While any kind of electric heater can give you a boost of heat where and when you need it, there are an array of smart features you could look out for that make the appliance both easier to use and more energy efficient.

Pros and cons of smart electric heaters

To ultimately decide if a smart electric heater is a worthwhile investment for your specific home and lifestyle, it's a good idea to weigh up the advantages and drawbacks of choosing a smart model over a 'dumb' one.

Pros of a smart electric heater

• Can help reduce energy wastage. 'Instead of being left on for too long or forgotten about, it can be set to come on only when needed and switch itself off once the room reaches the desired temperature,' explains Patrick. 'Used properly, that’s far better than a basic plug-in heater running constantly in the background.' Some smart models will also turn off if they detect an open window, which will prevent the heat you are paying to generate from literally going straight out of the window.
• Can be controlled remotely. 'Smart portable heating appliances are a great option if you want to opt for precision control for your heating remotely,' says Sam Carter, radiator expert at Appliances Direct. 'This means that even if you’re not at home, you can still heat rooms in preparation for your arrival, as well as being able to set a heating schedule to suit your daily routine.'
• More control. Non-smart electric heaters will likely have a dial to control the heat output, but this means you don't really have any idea what temperature it's set at, and how much energy it's using. Smart models can allow you to set very specific temperatures, which you can repeat or adjust as and when you need to.
• Added convenience. Being able to control your electric heater via your phone or, in some cases Amazon Alexa or Google Home will be a popular benefit for those in busy households or for those with any mobility or dexterity issues.

Cons of smart electric heaters

• They're more expensive. You could pick up a 'dumb' electric heater that is a simple 'plug-in and go' option for less than £15, like this Abode Electric Fan Heater that you can get from Amazon for £12.99, but you'll need to pay more if you want smart features. In the case of the Dyson Hot+Cool HF1 Remote Link Pre-heat Heater and Cooling Fan, which boasts intelligent control, it's currently available at John Lewis for £349.99.
• Smart features can be fiddly to get to grips with. Setting up schedules for your electric heater can be a complex process, made harder if the smart controls don't feel intuitive.
• You could end up paying to smart features you don't actually use. If you only plan on using your electric heater occasionally for a quick burst of heat before your central heating comes on, then you might not need the scheduling capabilities that can come with smart appliances.

What particular smart features should you look out for?

When it comes to particular smart features that are worth looking out for, there are a few that the experts say are worth looking out for.

'The remote access control is always a very useful smart feature, as are the thermostat timers and the automatic switch off in case of tipping over,' explains appliance expert Jon Chatt, who works with Daewoo Electricals.

Energy monitoring is another key feature to look out for, according to Patrick: 'If the heater shows how much energy it’s using, that’s a real bonus - it makes it much easier for households to keep an eye on what it’s actually costing to run.' Look too for models where the heater will automatically switch to a lower power mode when your selected temperature is reached.

'Geofencing for example is a great feature to look for, as it uses your phone location to turn your heating on and off when you're a certain distance away from home,' says Sam Carter. 'This ultimately helps automate the entire heating process, leaving you free to forget about your heating and get on with your day.

'Open Window Detection is also a particularly game changing feature to opt for,' he adds. 'These smart sensors can detect a sudden drop in temperature (like when a door or window is left open), and automatically pause the unit - so you're not pouring heat out of your house for no reason!'

FAQs

Who is a smart electric heater best suited to?

There are specific lifestyles and circumstances that may find a smart electric heater useful.

If you find yourself home alone during the day on a regular basis, whether you are working from home, work shifts or are retired, then a smart electric heater might be particular beneficial for you. You can heat the room you are in instead of the whole house. 'If you work at home often, a crucial tip is to set your smart heater to have your office up to temperature before you start working, while keeping the rest of the house at a lower temperature,' says Sam Carter.

'In addition - renters, who may not be able to make changes to the existing heating system put in by their landlords, will also find smart portable heating appliances particularly useful, as a key way to keep energy bills under control.'

Moreover, if you find yourself concerned about your energy bills over winter, and want to supplement your central heating with a secondary source, then the energy saving benefits of a smart model will help you use your electric heater more efficiently.

Electric heaters can be a great way to give a room a blast of heat quickly and efficiently and are beloved of many homeowners who work from home and really feel the chill in winter (myself included).

That said, even the best electric heaters need to be positioned correctly if you want to get the very most out of them – they obviously use electricity to run and will therefore be adding to your energy bills so you want to make sure you are using them most efficiently and aren't wasting any of the heat they emit.

To help ensure you know the very best spots around the house and in a room to place your electric heater, I reached out to the experts for their advice – here's what they had to say.

Where is the best place to put an electric heater for most effective heat distribution?

There are lots of different types of electric heater, from simple and compact fan heaters to those that are designed to be mounted on the wall. But where is the best place for them for an effective spread of heat?

'Ideally you want to put your electric heater somewhere it can deal with cold air before it spreads out and where warm air can move freely around the room,' advises Kevin Hayes, managing director at Centreline Fires. 'In most homes that means on or at least near an external wall or under a window, as that’s where heat loss is greatest. If you’re using a fixed electric radiator or panel heater, that positioning helps balance the room temperature properly.'

'The best place for most heaters is under your window, attacking the cold where it enters the room,' adds Sam Carter, radiator expert and eCommerce product trader at Appliances Direct. 'This creates rising air that blocks cold drafts and circulates the warm air into the centre of the room.'

'With portable heaters its more about the airflow,' continues Kevin. 'They need to be out in the open, not shoved behind furniture or tucked into a corner. If the warm air can’t circulate you’ll end up with a hot spot near the heater and a cold room everywhere else.'

Does the size of your electric heater matter?

In addition to its positioning, an electric heater needs to be correctly sized to the room – just as with radiators, there is no point just looking for the cheapest electric heater to run then specifying one that is too big or small for the room, or that offers a heat output that will be all wrong for your space.

'A small fan heater will never really properly heat a large living room no matter where you put it, and an oversized heater in a small room can be uncomfortable and inefficient,' points out Kevin Hayes. 'Matching the heater's output to the room and placing it sensibly is just as important as the heater itself.'

'The appliance must be matched to the space,' explains Christine Matthews, heating appliance expert at Gr8Fires. 'A small fan heater is a tactical solution for personal warmth but lacks the output or distribution for a whole room. For sustained, ambient heat in a living area, you need a fixed solution with sufficient kilowatt (kW) output for the room's volume. This is where properly specified electric fires or stoves beat portable heaters as they're sized for the space and placed for optimal, permanent performance, not temporary convenience.'

Shop electric fan heaters

Can you put an electric heater on carpet?

Safety should be paramount when using any kind of electrical appliance, but in the case of those that produce heat, it is more important than ever.

'I wouldn’t recommend putting an electric heater on carpet,' warns Kevin Hayes. 'Most electric heaters need a firm and level surface. Carpet can make them unstable and can restrict airflow underneath which can cause it to just overheat. There’s also the very obvious fire risk if the heater gets too hot and is in direct contact with carpet. If you are using a portable heater, it should always be on a solid, non-flammable surface with plenty of space round it.'

'Some heaters are safe on carpeted areas as the base is designed not to get hot enough to ignite fabric,' points out Sam Carter. 'However, fan heaters are a different story – always place them on hard floors.'

Should you put an electric heater in the bathroom?

It is quite understandable why homeowners might want a quick blast of heat in the bathroom – after all, you spend much of the time in this room in a state of undress. However, is an electric heater a safe option or are you better off choosing a radiator for the bathroom instead?

'There is a big difference between heaters made for bathrooms vs a portable one you would use in a bedroom or lounge and the two shouldn’t be confused,' says Kevin Hayes. 'Portable heaters should never be used in a bathroom – full stop. The risk from water and moisture is just too high.

'Bathrooms can have electric heating but it needs to be purpose designed and properly installed,' continues Kevin. 'Fixed electric towel rails and bathroom-rated heaters are made specifically for that environment and must meet the correct safety ratings and be installed in the right position by a qualified electrician.'

'For guaranteed safety you should choose a heater marked 'bathroom safe' with an IP24 water-resistance rating,' adds Sam Carter.

FAQs

Should a fan heater be placed in the centre of the room?

It makes sense to place your electric fan heater somewhere where the heat it is producing can be evenly distributed. However, is popping it slap bang in the middle of the room really a good idea?

'For a permanent fixture such as an electric stove, we always recommend a wall in a central location,' says Christine Matthews. 'Avoid tucking it into a tight alcove, if possible, as this can restrict airflow and create a 'hot spot' while leaving the rest of the room cold.

'For a freestanding electric heater or stove, you have more flexibility,' continues Christine. 'In a large room, such as an open plan kitchen, you might centre it or put it at an angle in the corner.'

If you have chosen an oil-filled heater to help warm up your home, make sure you understand how to use an oil-filled radiator more efficiently before just plugging it in and walking away – you'll be glad you did once your energy bills arrive.

There are lots of different ways to heat a home these days and, while many homeowners rely on central heating, there are still benefits to be had from electric heaters, which are available in many different guises and really can come in handy in certain circumstances.

Perhaps you work from home and are reluctant to run the central heating all day long but need a blast of heat to keep your fingers from freezing up mid-email, or maybe you have a room without radiators that needs a more portable solution – this is where electric heaters really can be a life saver.

The problem is that, even the best oil-filled radiators, don't always look hugely appealing, which is why many people are keen to track down more attractive options instead. I did a little digging to unearth the best alternatives around.

Do oil-filled radiators look old fashioned?

In the past, oil-filled radiators were not necessarily designed with aesthetics in mind – chunky, available in one colour and generally pretty uninspiring. Have things moved on?

'Oil-filled radiators no longer have to look like something pulled from a 1980s hospital ward. While traditionally they've had bulky fins and castor wheels, that isn’t necessarily the case anymore,' reveals Sam Carter, radiator expert at Appliances Direct. 'We’re seeing a clear shift towards designer electric radiators that still use thermal fluid for efficient heat retention, but are styled to blend seamlessly into modern homes and look just like contemporary radiators.'

'Many oil-filled radiators tend to have the same design style for a few reasons – mainly that this design works,' picks up Matt Holtom, founder and senior engineer at Able Plumbing Solutions. 'The fin and column style is an effective way of transmitting as much heat to the room as possible – and why change something if it isn't broken?

'Another reason why they have maintained the same style for decades is that it helps keep the price point down,' continues Matt. 'Making new moulds and creating new tools to form radiators of a different shape would naturally push the costs up, resulting in retailers having to charge higher prices – which customers don't want to pay. From a visual perspective, sometimes oil-filled heaters can discolour and appear yellow, which also makes them quickly look outdated and unstylish.'

Shop modern oil-filled radiators

What are the modern alternatives to oil-filled radiators?

The good news for anyone wanting to enjoy the benefits of an oil-filled radiator is that there are now lots of modern alternatives – many of which are also designed with aesthetics in mind. Just be sure to research how to use an oil-filled radiator efficiently to ensure you get the most out of your purchase.

'There is still growing demand for oil-filled panel radiators,' reveals Sam Carter. 'Many can now be wall-mounted using supplied brackets or used as freestanding units with detachable feet, making them ideal for renters or spaces without existing pipework.

'Today’s oil-filled radiators are far more advanced though,' continues Sam. 'They come in energy-efficient designs and with timers and precise digital controls that give homeowners greater control over heating and help reduce energy bills. With no pipework required and just a standard electric supply, they are reliable, low-maintenance and cost-effective to run.'

If you love the idea of a flexible heater, run off electricity, yet are put off by the rather clumsy appearance of a traditional oil-filled finned model, there are several other options to consider.

Wall-mounted panel heaters

If you want something more akin to designer radiators, that look modern, sleek and take up little in the way of space, all while providing a quick blast of heat, then a panel heater could just be what you've been searching for.

'Oil-filled heaters are thermally efficient, often holding the heat for longer even when they have been turned off (as opposed to fan heaters which may swiftly give off heat when powered, but quickly cool down when switched off),' explains Matt Holtom. 'Electric panel heaters usually have a more stylish and slimline appearance, however, and so it is the homeowner's choice as to which they prefer – style or efficiency?'

Electric panel heaters come in all kinds of designs and are a type of convection heater that work by passing room temperature air over an internal heating element, often a ceramic core, before using it to heat the room.

Infrared heaters

Unlike electric panel heaters, which heat by convection, meaning they heat the air around them, infrared heaters provide a radiant heat – directing heat at objects or people in the room. This makes infrared heaters cheap to run compared to other types of electric radiator. They come in several different forms, from sleek panel-style heaters that can be discreetly wall-mounted, to portable units with a visible element.

'Oil-filled electric heaters have always had their place but as time has moved on, there are ways to heat your home that are more discreet, and in some cases add character to a room,' explains George Cornah, director at Warm4Less. 'One of the alternatives is infrared heating panels, that warm people and surfaces directly, rather than just heating the air. These can feel more comfortable and gives you more control over when and where heat is used.'

'Infrared heaters are a great alternative for instant, efficient heating,' agrees Sam Carter. 'They are a good option for living spaces where you want on-demand warmth without heating the entire room for long periods. They are available in both freestanding and wall-mounted designs – some are even paintable so they can blend seamlessly into modern interiors.'

'Some infrared heating panels can also be customised with printed artwork or imagery, allowing them to blend into a room or act as a design feature rather than a visible heater,' adds George Cornah. 'Many models have features like Wi-Fi control, timers and room-by-room settings which can make a noticeable difference to energy consumption. It helps families avoid heating empty rooms and potentially reduces energy use compared to older oil-filled heaters that are slow to heat up and cool down."

Electric radiators

Unlike traditional radiators used as part of a whole house central heating system, electric radiators work a little differently.

They are permanently filled with water or a thermal liquid and heated by an internal element. They are designed to be wall-mounted and simply plugged into an electrical socket – just as with electric heated towel rails. No pipework is required and they often come complete with all kinds of useful smart upgrades.

'Modern electric radiators have moved far beyond basic plug-in heaters,' picks up Sam Carter. 'Most now come with smart thermostats that connect to your phone, so you can schedule your heating to suit your routine (or simply turn on a single radiator to dry your towel). This scheduling is far more precise than a simple timer and can help reduce wasted energy and running costs.'

'With more new builds being constructed with solar panels as standard, or homeowners investing in alternative energy sources, electric radiators would be compatible with an electric home energy system and help to maximise cost savings,' points out Matt Holtom.

FAQs

Can you give an old oil-filled radiator a makeover?

If you are rather fond of your trusty oil-filled electric radiator but are not so in love with the way it looks, there are a couple of ways to improve things in the looks department.

'I have known people paint their oil heaters, which can transform the appearance and turn it into a feature, rather than an ugly appliance – think neon or metallic,' says Matt Holton. 'It's important to only use radiator paint, intended for metal surfaces and one which can withstand heat over 80°C.

'Alternatively, a radiator cover may be an option to hide the visual appearance of the heater, but bear in mind that the heat output will be reduced if the cover is too thick or without enough airflow.'

If you are considering buying an oil-filled radiator as a way of heating your home without turning the heating on, do bear in mind that there are lots of other measures you can use, including upgrading your insulation and draught-proofing.

If you're looking for a secondary heating option to complement your central heating on the chilliest of days, then you might be thinking about investing in an electric heater of some type.

The best electric heaters come in a variety of guises — including fan, convection and infrared — plus there's the best oil-filled radiators to consider too.

You could be forgiven for thinking that oil-filled radiators and electric heaters are the same thing. After all, they are both portable electric appliances that are used to provide heat. That's definitely what I used to think. But after using both oil-filled radiators and electric heaters myself, I finally understand that they are actually more different than they might seem. Here's how.

What's the difference between an oil-filled radiator and an electric heater?

While both electric heaters and oil-filled radiators are powered by electricity and have similar price points, they have key differences that set them apart from each other.

Heat distribution

'Oil-filled radiators and electric radiators are similar in the way these both use electricity as their power source, but the key difference lies in how they distribute heat,' explains Stephen Hankinson, heating expert at Electric Radiators Direct.

When it comes to how oil-filled radiators work, Stephen says: 'Oil-filled radiators heat up thermal oil inside the unit, transferring warmth into the metal, which emits heat into the room through radiation. Heat is then circulated around the room as any air that passes against the radiator is warmed up.'

On the other hand, electric heaters work differently. Some electric heaters have a ceramic core, which is heated with electricity, and then a fan helps distribute the warmth, while others might use heated metal coils to generate the warmth. In the case of infrared heaters, these are designed to emit electromagnetic radiation that, rather than heating the air, heats objects, surfaces, and people directly instead.

It's wise to understand how long an electric heater should be on for to use it in the most cost-effective way possible.

Speed of heat and heat retention

One of the most obvious difference I noticed between the two is that electric heaters tend to produce heat almost instantly, whereas oil-filled radiators take longer to reach the chosen temperature.

While it takes longer for the thermal oil in a oil-filled radiator to heat up then it does for an electric fan or ceramic heater to warm up, but once that oil is warm, it doesn't cool down quickly. Instead it retains the heat and will carry on emitting warmth even after it's turned off. That means they are best used for more steady heating over longer periods of time.

Electric heaters, on the other hand, generate pretty much instant heat but cool down very quickly after being switched off. That means they are best suited to areas where you need a quick burst of heat, but maybe don't need the space to be warmed for long periods.

Which is cheaper to run - an electric heater or an oil-filled radiator?

Whether you are using an oil-filled radiator or an electric heater, running costs will depend on the wattage of the appliance, the mode you use it in and how long you use it for.

For example, the running costs for the oil-filled radiators that made it into our round up of the best you can buy, range from 500-2500W. Based on price per kilowatt hours of electricity under the current January 2026 energy price cap that means they can cost anywhere between 14p and 69p an hour to run.

Compare that to the electric heaters that made it into our best buy guide, that have wattages between 700W and 2500W, the running costs are very similar.

However, with better heat retention, oil-filled radiators are generally considered the more efficient of the two. One thing you should consider before buying an oil-filled radiator is the fact they continue to emit heat after they are turned off and that they can still be effective despite being used for shorter periods of time. This gives them an edge over electric heaters from a cost to run point of view.

Use our calculator to work out the running costs of a particular model. All you need to know is the wattage.

Which is noisier - an oil-filled radiator or electric heater?

I can attest that oil-filled radiators are silent in operation, while electric heaters with a fan will create a noticeable sound when in use, and it will usually be louder in the more powerful modes.

However, not all electric heaters make a noise when in use. I recently reviewed the Mill WiFi Max 1500W portable heater, which was practically silent in operation.

This may not bother some people, but if you are sensitive to sound you may find the noise of fan heaters distracting.

Which is better for large spaces - and oil-filled radiator or an electric heater?

Provided you choose an appropriately-powered appliance, you could use an electric heater or an oil-filled radiator to heat a large room.

But larger rooms or open plan zones can be notoriously difficult to heat, and even if you are complementing your central heating with an electric heater, you'll need a more powerful model than will come with higher running costs. Plus, you may find you want it on for longer to continue to feel the benefits until your central heating kicks in again.

However, the heat retention benefits of an oil-filled radiator could make it a more suitable and cost-effective option.

On the other hand, if you are looking to heat a smaller room, then it's a good idea to choose something with a smaller wattage. A good rule of thumb is to allocate 100W per m2.

You might also be concerned about the actual dimensions of your chosen emitter too. While you can get oil-filled radiators will fewer fins, the best space saving options can usually be found in the electric heater category.

Which should you choose - an oil-filled radiator or electric heater?

In my experience, there's no one-size-fits-all answer to whether you should pick an oil-filled radiator or an electric heater. Instead it depends on your specific home, the room you want to heat and how you want to heat it.

If you want something with silent operation that will efficiently heat a large room for long periods of time, then an oil-filled radiator is likely to be the better option for you. However, if you don't mind the noise and want an emitter that provides a short burst of heat, then an electric heater might be more your bag.

A spokesperson from De'Longhi, who manufacture both oil-filled radiators and electric heaters, shared this quick glance table with me to help you choose the best option for your home.

If you do end up deciding that an oil-filled radiator is the right fit for you and your home, make sure you know how to use it most efficiently for maximum benefits with the lowest energy consumption.

Staying warm in a large room can be a challenge, especially if you don't want to keep whacking your central heating on for longer.

And so at this time of year, it's no wonder that oil-filled radiators and electric heaters are popular options to complement your existing heating schedule, and provide an extra boost of heat in the room you are in as and when you need it.

While oil-filled radiators might take longer to warm up than electric heaters, they can continue to release heat after they turn off, which makes them sought-after devices during the winter.

But is an oil-filled radiator a suitable option for a large room, or should you be considering of the modern alternatives to oil-filled radiators? I asked the pros for the answers.

Will an oil-filled radiator suit a large room?

An oil-filled radiator can definitely suit a large room, especially when you can afford to wait for them to heat up.

'With slow cooldowns and an even spread of warmth, oil filled radiators are best suited in medium to large rooms that are used regularly, like bedrooms and living rooms,' says Stephen Hankinson, heating expert at Electric Radiators Direct. 'Their superior thermal properties make them ideal for maintaining a consistent temperature over long periods, rather than used on an ad-hoc basis when instant heat is required.'

But whether you opt for an oil-filled radiator or an electric heater, one of things you need to know before buying one is that you need to make sure you choose a suitably powerful one. If you don't, then it will either struggle to heat the space (but use a lot of energy trying). Choosing a suitable size is key to using your oil-filled radiator more efficiently.

What size oil-filled radiator would you need for a large room?

If you are wanting to buy an oil-filled radiator for a large room, then a good rule of thumb is to factor in 100W of power for every square metre. So if your space is 20m², you will need a 2000W radiator, if it's 25m², you would need a 2500W oil-filled radiator. While that's a good indicator, do check the spec of the model you are considering because most will stipulate a maximum room size.

It's also worth considering how well insulated your home is. If you have a very well-insulated home, you may get away with a slightly less powerful radiator.

While power is an important consideration when it comes to using your oil-filled radiator most efficiently, it's not the only one. For faster, more even heating in a large space, look at the radiant surface area of the radiator you are thinking of buying. 'Look for units with more fins or a chimney effect design, says a spokesperson from De'Longhi. 'This optimises how much air comes into contact with the heat source, warming the room faster and more evenly.'

Choosing a model with a timer or programming functionality is also worthwhile. 'Using a timer allows you to pre-warm a room before you enter it, preventing the need to blast the heat on high settings later,' adds the spokesperson.

2000W (or 2kW) oil-filled radiators:

2500W (or 2.5kW) oil-filled radiators:

How many oil-filled radiators would you need in a large room?

When it comes to how good your oil-filled radiator is, if you buy a suitably powered model for the size of your room, then you should only need one to provide adequate heat.

However, if you are trying to heat a much larger space, then you might need a couple of heaters to deliver the required heat output.

But think carefully about whether this is the best option for your home. There might be other options for heating an open-plan space that are better suited.

FAQs

On a relatively mild winter's day, like we have seen recently, you might feel like you don't need your central heating on all day, but it's not quite warm enough to turn it off either.

That's where one of the best oil-filled radiators can come in handy. But while these devices use electricity to generate the heat, rather than gas like most central heating systems, which is the more expensive of the two, it pays to know how to use your oil-filled radiator efficiently. That means more heat for less money.

1. Choose a suitably sized oil-filled radiator

If you don't yet have one, then there's plenty to think about before you buy an oil-filled radiator and it's important you choose one designed to heat the room you want to use it in. And the good news is an oil-filled radiator can suit a large room, especially if you buy the right size.

Get one that's not powerful enough and it'll work harder and use more electricity to heat the space, and you'll likely have it on longer than you need to in order to warm yourself up. Choose one that's too powerful and you'll be using far more energy than you need to every time you use it. Both of which will drastically increase the cost to run your oil-filled radiator, which no-one wants.

Think too about how quickly you want it to heat up and cool down. If you want more instant heat and a quick cool down, then you may be better off with one of the best electric heaters instead.

2. Put it in the right place

If you want your oil-filled radiator to deliver the best heat output for the lowest price, you need to position it properly, and avoid the worst places to put electric heaters in general. For it to work most efficiently, you'll need to use it in a well-insulated room, keeping it away from any draughts and furniture. Ideally, you'll also want it to sit away from the wall so you don't block any of the heat it gives off.

It's worth taking the time to seal any draughts around windows and doors, using the products below, and make sure windows and internal doors are closed when you want to use it.

For your oil-filled radiator to last as long as possible, you should also keep on top of cleaning it to ensure dust build up doesn't make it less efficient.

3. Complement your existing heating

When it comes to how oil-filled radiators work, substituting your central heating entirely with an electric heater or oil-filled radiator is not a cost-effective idea, but using a plug-in heater to complement your existing central heating can be, and it's something I've done for years.

As I work from home, I definitely don't want my central heating on all day and evening, especially when a lot of my day is spent in just one room. That means I've had to hone multiple methods over the years to keep warm while working, without sending my bills skyrocketing.

'While oil-filled radiators are extremely energy-efficient and can maintain warmth for extended periods, leaving one on continuously is generally not the most cost-effective approach,' says Stephen Hankinson, heating expert at Electric Radiators Direct. 'It’s best to set a heating schedule that matches your lifestyle and individual routine, so your heating only ever comes on when you need it.'

4. Make use of additional features

Depending on the age of your oil-filled radiator you might have some additional features that can help you reduce how much energy it uses, making it much more efficient. These might be open-window detection, eco modes or app controls that allow you to create schedules or set timers to ensure you aren't using it more than you need to.

'Look for heaters with thermostat control,' advises a spokesperson from De'Longhi. 'These devices automatically stop drawing power once your desired temperature is reached and only resume when the temperature drops. This prevents over-heating a room and saves significant electricity.'

5. Use it slow and steady

By nature, oil-filled radiators take a bit longer to warm up than electric heaters, so whacking the temperature and power setting up to the max in a bid to warm it up quicker will use a lot more energy than you need to.

Once you know how long your oil-filled radiator takes to get to temperature, this is where using any timer or WiFi controls can come in handy to keep your energy usage under control. Turn it on remotely and give it a bit of time to warm up slow and steady before you need it.

FAQs

Experts are warning homeowners against using these popular social media heating hacks, explaining they will do more harm than good in your home.

We all want to find ways to heat a home in winter that doesn’t centre around our thermostat, especially given that energy bills have risen this month. However, this doesn’t mean we should trust everything we see online, with some popular, even viral, hacks spreading misinformation.

So, if you’ve been using TikTok, Instagram or Facebook as a means to hunt for heating tips, these are four you should always avoid, according to the experts.

1. Using kitchen foil behind a radiator

It’s a well-known fact that radiator reflectors can help reduce energy bills and keep a room warmer. However, while it can be tempting, and lots of social media posts suggest it is a good idea, you shouldn’t use tin foil for this - instead invest in proper radiator reflectors such as the Radiator Reflector Panels, (£24.99 at Amazon).

‘Ordinary foil isn’t designed to sit behind a heat source. Over time, it can degrade or oxidise at higher temperatures, increasing the risk of smouldering or even fire. And without proper insulation backing, the heat-saving benefits are minimal at best,’ explains Scott Byrom, Energy Expert and Chief Executive at The Energy Shop.

‘Instead, if your radiators are on external walls, use purpose-made radiator reflector panels that are fire-safe and designed to improve efficiency, or focus on draught-proofing, which delivers far more reliable savings.’

2. DIY terracotta pot heaters

I’ve seen this heating hack everywhere, especially on TikTok this winter. The hack consists of placing a candle underneath a terracotta pot to create a ‘free’ heater. It may sound like a good idea, but it is one you should definitely avoid.

‘Using a terracotta pot and a candle is ineffective, potentially dangerous,’ says Sarah Handley, Rennovations Editor at Ideal Home. ‘The pot could become hot and burn, could crack, become unstable, and could therefore cause a fire.’

3. Using your oven to heat your home

‘Another typical social media trend is to use hobs or ovens to heat your home, particularly when spending prolonged time in the kitchen or for those with a kitchen-diner,’ says Scott.

‘However, ovens and hobs are simply not designed to heat living spaces. Gas ovens in particular can release carbon monoxide, a life-threatening, odourless gas that can build up indoors.’

While leaving your oven door open after you’ve finished cooking is one way to make the most of extra heat in your home, you should never attempt to generate extra heat by leaving the oven or hob on.

4. Leaving the heating on low all day

Whether you should leave your heating on low all day or not is a big debate on social media. And our answer? No, this is a bad idea.

‘If you don’t have underfloor heating and a really well-insulated house, this just means that your home will be losing heat all day long,’ says Sarah.

Most houses will lose heat via their roofs and windows, making the idea of leaving your heating on all day redundant. It’s a better idea to schedule your heating for when you know you need it. However, it is also a good idea to ensure your home is well insulated.

If you’ve attempted one of these hacks before, don’t worry. The important thing is that you don’t attempt them again. When it comes to your home and safety, social media shortcuts are never a good idea. Instead, stick to the advice of trusted experts.

With households seemingly more aware of their energy usage than ever before, staying warm in the most cost-effective way possible will be high priority for most. And I've found that complementing my central heating system with one of the best electric heaters the ideal sweet spot between keeping warm and keeping my bills as low as possible.

But I had never used a smart electric heater before and so I was intrigued to put the Mill WiFi Max 1500W portable heater through its paces, and see whether this could help improve comfort levels, without increasing my bills, all while making my life easier.

Here's how I got on.

In a nutshell

With an RRP of £169, this convection heater has a lot going for it. It's got a stylish and minimalist design, and can be controlled via on-board controls or the free Mill app.

From a basic 'turn it on and adjust the temperature' point of view, this heater is really easy to use. There's a simple push button and dial on the heater itself, and a clear display of your chosen temperature setting. You can also control this in the app, and so much more.

I can see most households taking advantage of the app to control the heater via their smart phone wherever they are, using the timer functionality and keeping track of energy usage. However, whether you use all of the smart features this heater has to offer depends on your comfortability with smart devices and how you plan on using the heater.

How I tested

Specification

• Type of heater: Convection
• RRP: £169
• Weight: 5.5kg
• Dimensions (W x H x D): 62cm x 38.5cm x 24.5cm
• Wattage: 1500W
• Running costs per hour: 41.5p
• Room size suitability: up to 22m2
• Smart features: WiFi connectivity, app control, open window detection & more
• Dual functionality: None
• Oscillation: None

Unboxing, setting up and first impressions

The heater arrived well packaged, in fully recyclable packaging which always gets a Brownie point from me. I also loved that there was a very handy carry handle on the box, which meant I didn't have to do that weird crab walk people do when trying to carry a sizeable box through a doorway.

There are only five parts in the box, the main heater, the stand (in two parts) and a couple of metal plates to attach it all together. I did have a little panic that they'd forgotten to include the screws in the box, but they are actually already screwed into the holes on the base of the main heater unit so I just grabbed a screwdriver to take them out.

All in all, I managed to assemble it single handedly in less than five minutes. Result.

On seeing it assembled for the first time, I loved how sleek and contemporary it looked. The heater has white gloss sides, a black grill separating them and a brushed chrome stand. It definitely wouldn't look out of place in a modern and minimalist home.

It is possible to just plug this heater into a socket, turn it on and off you go, but a big draw of this model was it's WiFi connectivity. It takes a few minutes to go through and set up your profile on the Mill App, which then walks you through how to connect your heater to your WiFi (so make sure you have your password handy). It did take me a couple of goes to get connected, which was a bit frustrating in a world where we take this for granted. But I got there in the end.

Once connected, you have the option to add it as an independent device in the Mill App (which means you can turn it on and off, adjust the temperature, use timers and turn on any child locks, as well as see your energy usage), or to assign it to a Room (which allows you to set up weekly programmes).

I started off with the heater as an independent device. There's a bit of a smell when you first turn it on, which the instructions confirmed was to be expected, and it was gone after about 10 minutes.

What’s it like to use?

The on-board controls are really easy to use, and it's great that it shows the actual temperature the heater is set to, rather than, say, a 1-5 scale that you might see on other heaters. You simply turn the large dial to adjust the temperature.

It heats up quickly and the best part is that it is utterly silent. But while it is so quiet when it's on, I was worried that I might forget to turn it off. Definitely not want I want with an electric heater, which when used for long periods can be very expensive.

And so I switched to testing the controls via the app, which very handily include a timer function. Once you're device is connected and plugged in, you can use the timer on the app to turn it both off and on, which is a great feature if you want take the cold edge off a room before you step into it.

If you have kids at home, you can also lock the controls on the unit from the app, so you don't have to worry about curious little fingers getting a little too curious and ramping the temperature up.

Having the heater set up as an independent device in the app is definitely my preference way of controlling the heater as I only really use it as a complement to my central heating, and getting an extra blast of warmth when it gets a bit chilly and I don't want to put the central heating on for another hour.

For something much more involved, you can set up a room in the app, and set weekly schedules. I found these rather confusing to set up, but fortunately found a YouTube video, that helped get me on the right track. I can see this being a useful if you plan to keep your heater in a home office, where you may have very specific times you use the space. But this could get confusing if you are taking advantage of the portability of the heater and moving it around your home. You'd need to set up multiple schedules, which is doable, but remembering to switch between them is a harder task. Plus, using an electric heater as a primary heat source, instead of a supplementary one is an expensive endeavour.

I used the heater primarily in my living room and home office, but what's great about this heater is that it is also IPX4 rated, which means it can be used in a bathroom.

And on the topic of portability, there are two insets at the top corners of the heater that allow you to lift it with ease. However, as you are effectively lifting with your finger tips, this might not be that easy for someone with any dexterity concerns. A heater with wheels, like one of the best oil-filled radiators may be a more suitable option if that was the case.

From a safety perspective, it has a tip over switch, which means it'll turn off it it's knocked over, overheat protection and a child lock. The low surface temperature also means that risk of burns are minimal.

What are the running costs like?

If we use the January 2026 energy price cap figure for electricity, which is 27.69p per kWh, this 1500W heater would cost around 41.5p per hour to run. So it's not cheap.

However, the Mill WiFi Max 1500W heater has some cool features to help you keep track of and reduce how much energy it uses.

You can not only track how much energy your device is using in the app, but it also has what it called PID Wattage Tech. This means that when your chosen temperature is reached, the device will lower the power level to maintain it, which not only means more stable heating, but also lower energy bills.

Cleaning and maintenance

The good news is that there isn't a lot you need to do when it comes to cleaning or maintaining the Mill WiFi Max 1500W heater.

Keeping it as free from dust as possible is a good idea to keep it in good working order. Make sure it's cool and unplugged before running over with with a clean dry cloth. You could also clean between the grates with an ear bud. Using a hair dryer on a cool setting could also help clear the dust and prevent any smells caused by dust on the heat component that you wouldn't be able to get to with a cloth.

When it's not in use over the summer, store the unplugged heater on a stable surface and cover with a sheet to prevent dust build up.

It's also important to regularly check that the cable isn't showing any signs of damage.

Who should buy the Mill WiFi Max 1500W portable heater?

If you want a contemporary looking heater to complement your central heating schedule, then the Mill WiFi Max 1500W portable heater is worth considering. It'll heat up a medium-sized (up to 22m2) room quickly and silently, and it's PID Wattage Tech means that it's clever enough to not use more energy that in needs to in order to keep you warm.

The WiFi connectivity means that you can control this heater via the app from wherever you are, and set up both timers and schedules that allow it to learn your environment and preferences.

The fact that this heater is also IPX4 rated also means that it can be used in a bathroom, which can't be said for every electric heater.

However, all of this comes with a RRP of £169, and so if you don't need the smart functionality and aren't fussed about the sleek Scandinavian aesthetic, then you may be better suited to a simpler heater with on-board controls only, such as the Dreo Fan Space Heater.

Why oh why is it that radiators and boilers always seem to decide to play up just when we need them most? Its like they wait all year for temperatures to drop just a little bit to play up.

Last week, sitting working from home, I became aware that could no longer feel my toes. Upon realising this, I went to see whether the heating was on, which it was – and yet, the radiator nearest where I was working was freezing cold. Typical.

Thankfully I had a couple of experts to call on. So, rather than immediately call out the pros, I asked them what checks I could carry out myself to put the problem right.

1. Checked where the radiator was cold

The first time you put your heating on is always a little bit stressful – will it work or won't it? When I checked the radiator in the kitchen a little more thoroughly I found that it wasn't actually cold all over – just at the top. At the bottom it was warm, although not overly so.

According to Michael Zohouri, founder of Pyramid Eco, there are several reasons why a radiator might not be heating up evenly.

'The first thing to look at is where the radiator is cold,' picks up Michael. 'If it’s cold at the top but warm at the bottom, that usually means trapped air. If it’s cold at the bottom but warm at the top, that often points to sludge in the system restricting the flow of hot water.'

2. Checked the boiler pressure gauge

The next possible culprit of my radiators not heating up properly was, according to Michael Zohouri, my boiler pressure.

'Check the boiler pressure gauge – in most homes it should sit between 1 and 1.5 bar when the system is cold,' explains Michael. 'If it’s too low, the radiators will struggle to heat up properly. If multiple radiators are cold at once, the issue is more likely with the boiler, pump or thermostat rather than the radiators themselves.'

'If pressure is low, there is usually a filling loop under your boiler,' says Gordon Chalk, managing director at Next Level Underfloor Heating and Screed Solutions LTD. 'This is a bendable hose with two buttons. Look at the manual for your boiler to get the exact steps, but in general, you slowly open both valves, keep an eye on the pressure gauge as it rises, and then close them tightly when the right pressure is reached. This hack is very important because low pressure may keep the boiler from moving water properly or even starting up at all as a safety measure.'

3. Bled the radiators

Ideally, radiators should be bled once a year, before heating season arrives.

'Bleeding radiators is a simple option,' says Gordon Chalk. 'Just get a radiator key and a cloth to catch the drips. Make sure your basic heating system is not on then find the flow valve at the end of the radiator – most of the time at the top.

'Put the radiator key in and slowly turn it to the left,' continues Gordon. 'You should hear a hissing sound as the air leaves. When the water starts to drip, close the valve by turning the key to the right (use your cloth!). This hack makes sure that the hot water can fill the whole radiator and that it gives off the most possible heat. It works by pushing air out of the way.'

Shop kit to bleed a radiator

4. Checked the radiator valves

Despite the home upgrades we have made to keep our house warm, the radiator in our already cold hallway wasn't heating up at all when I checked – and it turns out the problem lay with the valves.

'If a radiator is not warm at all, the thermostatic radiator valve (TRV) should be checked first,' explains Gordon Chalk. 'If it's off or set to zero, the problem might be fixed by just turning it up.

'However, the pin inside the TRV can get stuck sometimes, especially after not being used for a while (like over the summer),' continues Gordon. 'Take off the plastic TRV head to check. There should be a little metal pin visible. If it's stuck, gently tap it with a hammer, or use pliers to pull it up – but don't bend it. The radiator should start to heat up if the pin comes loose and you put the head back on. This hack lets hot water flow into the heater by making sure the valve is open.'

5. Considered a professional power flush

Thankfully, after bleeding the kitchen radiator and sorting the stuck TRV on the hallway radiator, my problem was resolved. However, I did also consider a powerflush to ensure I was making the most of my central heating system.

'Another cause of cold radiators that people don't always think about is sludge growth in the system,' says Gordon Chalk. 'Radiators can develop cold spots – or even be completely blocked because of rust and dirt that build up at the bottom over time. If a radiator is cold at the bottom and warm at the top, even after bleeding it, there is probably sludge in it.

'A professional powerflush is the best way to fix the problem, but amateurs can try to get the fluid moving by turning off the heat, separating the problematic radiator, and carefully draining it (it will be dirty, so drain it into a bag!). Then fill it up again. This is a more complicated and messier hack, but it can help with some of the things that are blocking it for a short time.'

FAQs

How can you keep radiators running properly?

In an ideal world, you wouldn't need to wait until something went wrong to take a closer look at your radiators.

'In the UK, a Gas Safe registered engineer should service your boiler once a year,' points out Gordon Chalk. 'This makes sure it's safe and efficient, finding problems before they cause breakdowns.

'Also make sure pipes are insulated,' adds Gordon. 'Water loses heat if it travels through pipework that isn't insulated. Think about covering up pipework that isn't in a warm space, like in basements or lofts.'

'Regular maintenance is key,' picks up Michael Zohouri. 'Bleeding radiators at the start of the heating season to remove trapped air before cold spots develop and keeping boiler pressure within the correct range so hot water circulates properly around the system.

'You also want to make sure furniture and curtains aren’t covering radiators and stopping them from circulating heat around the room,' adds Michael. 'A radiator that cannot release heat efficiently will force the system to work harder and waste energy.'

What radiator issues should be left to the pros?

While many radiator maintenance jobs can be carried out on a DIY basis, there are some dangerous DIY jobs that are best left to the professionals.

An annual service is the most obvious, but there are other, more complex reasons for radiators not heating up that should be left to the pros too.

'An unstable heating system is a common cause of patchy heating, particularly when some heaters are hot and others stay cool or take a long time to warm up,' explains Gordon Chalk. 'This isn't about air – it's about how water flows. If the radiators near the boiler get all the hot water first, those further away will have a hard time working. Homeowners can try a basic change, but a full system balance is usually best done by a pro.'

What’s the life expectancy of a radiator?

According to The Radiator Centre, the average radiator will last between 10-15 years.

Over time, even designer radiators can corrode internally, leading to sludge build up and rust – be on the lookout for rust patches appearing externally too.

'Sludge is made up of rust, dirt and debris that settles in the bottom of radiators and blocks the flow of hot water,' explains Michael Zohouri.

Checking your radiators are running properly is just one step you can take to prepare your home for cold weather – there are lots of external jobs to get done and dusted too.

Heating experts are advising homeowners to consider zoned heating as an efficient and budget-friendly way to heat their homes during the winter.

The New Year has arrived with an undeniable chill in the air, and when it gets this cold, turning on your heating is unavoidable. With rising energy prices, I’ll admit it pains me a little every time I flick the heating on, but zone-heating is an efficient, less-wasteful method of heating I will be trying this month to save money on energy bills without sacrificing my comfort.

Zoned heating does what it says on the tin; it's all about heating the ‘zones’ of your home you use the most, instead of heating every room regardless of whether you are using it or not. It is an upgraded version of the idea of only heating the room you're in, and can be achieved using smart heating to control when and where the heating comes on, as well as setting bespoke temperatures for each zone.

What is zoned heating?

‘Zoned heating is a fantastic system that works with smart automated heating setups. It splits homes into independent temperature zones, and rather than heating the entire home controlled by a sole thermostat, it allows each room to be heated separately, tailored to how and when it is needed,’ says John Klee, heating technology expert at BestHeating.

‘Each zone has its own temperature sensor and control valve, and when the temperature in a particular room drops below its ideal level, the sensor detects this change and signals the water valve to open, allowing hot water to flow into the radiator in the zone.’

This method ensures that heat isn’t wasted by heating areas you rarely use. It streamlines your heating schedule into a less wasteful model, helping to save money and improve your carbon footprint in the long run.

‘Traditionally, you would have needed a specifically designed heating system for this type of control; however, in recent years, more advanced control can be offered by installing 'smart' TRVs (thermostatic radiator valves),' adds Alasdair Duncan, lecturer in Building Services Engineering at Glasgow Kelvin College.

'These can normally be retrofitted and sometimes in as little as 5 minutes by the homeowner. They can be programmed and controlled from an App on your smartphone or from a dedicated smart home control system such as a Hive.'

Why you should try zoned heating

‘Well set up zonal control could allow homeowners to direct heat to the spaces they use within their home at times when it suits them, while keeping the rest of their house relatively cooler, saving energy and reducing bills. When you look at this on a national scale or a continental scale, this translates into a huge reduction in our collective carbon footprint,’ says Alasdair.

If you’ve been wondering: ‘Is smart heating worth it?’ zone-heating is a pretty big pro. While it can be expensive to install, smart heating offers 24/7 control of your heating, and it monitors your energy usage, which will all help save on your energy bills in the process.

‘Understandably, some people can be put off zone-heating by the higher initial setup costs and system complexity, particularly fully integrated controls and smart tech. However, whilst this might cost more at first and the systems may take longer to get used to, zone-heating is much more cost-efficient in the long run and can cut heating bills by up to 30%,’ says John.

‘I would definitely recommend zone-heating. For those who are hybrid workers, it's perfect for keeping the home office warm during the midweek working days, but also lowering the temperature during the days you may be venturing into the office. For family homes, it's also a great way of keeping everyone happy and avoiding those universal heating arguments.’

Zone-heating is a cost and energy-efficient way to keep your home warm, without causing your heating bills to skyrocket. It’s definitely worth a try this winter.

If you're not ready to adopt a smart heating system, you could use one of the best electric heaters to complement your existing heating schedule and get a boost of heat when are where you need it, while avoiding heating your whole home unnecessarily.

It’s freezing outside. Literally freezing in some areas of the UK. For those of us who are really feeling the cold and trying to stop our heating bills from spiralling, Lidl has a range of budget-friendly heating options on sale now to help keep you toasty.

Lidl’s fan heaters and oil-filled radiators have gone on sale most winters for a few years now. But, given the rising energy prices and freezing temperatures outside, we’re glad they’ve reclaimed their rightful place in the middle aisle this week.

With these budget buys rivalling the likes of Dyson and some of the best oil-filled radiators on the market, here’s how these Lidl heaters can help keep you warm without costing a fortune.

On sale at Lidl right now are the Tronic Bladeless Fan Heater (£69.99) and the Tronic Bladeless Desk Fan Heater (£49.99), which are affordable alternatives to the Dyson Hot+Cool™ HF1 Remote Link Pre-heat heater and cooling fan (£399.99 at Dyson).

Now, I don’t believe the Lidl fans will match Dyson in terms of quality, but it does have some clever features which make it a good choice on a budget. Lidl has calculated that the larger fan costs 56p per hour to run while the smaller fan costs 33p per hour to run, using the UK Price Guarantee (January 2026) electricity rate of 27.69 pence per kWh.

Both fans have an LED mood light in five different colours and a colour-changing mode. The larger fan has 20 speed settings, a timer function of up to 12 hours, four oscillation settings and a temperature range of 5-35 degrees. It also has a natural mode, power mode and sleep mode.

Meanwhile, the desktop fan also has a temperature range of 5-35 degrees, has 10 speed settings and a timer function of up to nine hours. Both fans come with a remote control and have a cooling function for summer, so they can be used all year round.

While the Dyson is considerably more expensive than Lidl, it is Ideal Home's best-rated electric heater, offering fast, powerful heating and cooling. And you can even preheat your room before you arrive home. If you can afford it, this is the better option - but Lidl’s heater is impressive for the price.

Lidl oil-filled radiator

As well as the bladeless heater, Lidl is also offering the Tronic Oil-Filled Radiator at £29.99, which is a great price for this type of heater. Costing 42p per hour to run, has a larger heating area of seven fins, and three heat settings.

It’s worth noting that this oil-filled radiator isn’t as large or as powerful as some of the best oil-filled radiators available on the market, but it is an affordable and space-saving solution. It looks most similar to the VonHaus 6 Fin 800W Oil Filled Radiator (Was £32.99, now £29.99 at Amazon, which is rated our best affordable oil-filled radiator.

It’s easy to use, compact, lightweight and ideal for heating small areas (perfect for those who work from home), and given that it is currently the same price as the Lidl oil-filled radiator, it is the one I would recommend.

'Portable electric heaters can be a useful and cost-effective companion to your central heating, providing a quick boost of heat when and where you need it without needlessly heating your whole home. There are lots of different types to suit a range of budgets, and some will even double up as fans in the summer, which provides even better value for money,’ says Sarah Handley, Renovation Editor at Ideal Home.

Alternatives

If you don’t have a Lidl local to you, I’ve found a few more budget heating buys to help you stay warm.

While not the most powerful heaters you can buy, Lidl are offering affordable and space-saving options to help you beat the cold. This makes the worthy investments in my book.

With an Arctic blast set to grip the UK, it's never been more important for your heating to be in good working order.

While you might not think about servicing your heating system until you see the signs your boiler is about to stop working, experts say regular maintenance is essential to ensure your heating works efficiently and safely, and to mitigate the risk of it failing when you need it the most.

But how do you know when your heating needs a bit of TLC? I asked the pros the burning questions including how you know when a service is needed, why you should do it, what a typical service includes and how often you should get it done.

Signs your heating system needs a service

The majority of UK homes use a mains gas central heating system to heat their homes and to provide hot water, and for it to work most effectively, and in the most cost-effective way, it needs to be in good working order. So it's a good idea to keep your eyes peeled for signs that all might not be well.

'There are several red flags that can indicate your heating system needs attention,' explains Rob Denman, Director of Gas Services at Gas Safe Register.

1. 'Lazy yellow flames instead of crisp blue ones,
2. dark or sooty marks around boilers or fires,
3. or pilot lights that won’t stay on can all signal a problem.
4. You might also notice weaker or uneven heat,
5. unusual noises like banging or whistling,
6. or higher-than-usual energy bills that suggest the system is working inefficiently.'

If you spot these signs, you should think about getting your heating system serviced pretty quickly to get it fighting fit again.

However, there are some warning signs that are indicative of a very dangerous problem that should be investigated by a professional immediately. 'If you smell gas, see scorching or black marks, notice a floppy yellow pilot light, or if anyone in the home has been feeling unwell with headaches, nausea or dizziness, it’s important to act quickly as these could indicate a more serious problem,' adds Rob.

What are the benefits of getting your heating system serviced?

Having to fork out for a heating system service is a big reason so many people put off this maintenance task, but there are a whole host of benefits that make it a very worthwhile investment.

'The biggest benefit is safety,' says Earl Richards, Technical Manager at Cadent. 'A professional service undertaken by a Gas Safe Registered Engineer checks that your boiler and other gas appliances are burning fuel correctly and safely, reducing the risk of carbon monoxide leaks, which are colourless, odourless and potentially fatal.'

Beyond safety, Earl shared a number of other key benefits, including:

• Peace of mind that your home is safe
• Improved efficiency and lower energy bills
• Fewer breakdowns and unexpected repair costs
• Longer appliance lifespan
• Compliance with manufacturer warranties
• Early detection of faults before they become dangerous.

Even if it seems as if your heating is working fine, it's still worthwhile keeping on top of a regular maintenance schedule, as Rob Denman explains: 'Even if everything appears to be working fine, having it checked can help your home heat up quicker and stay warmer for longer, meaning you don’t need the heating on as much.'

What does a typical service include?

'A service will check that your system is running safely and that nothing is blocking ventilation or preventing appliances from burning correctly,' reveals Rob. 'For gas systems, that includes inspecting burners, ensuring chimneys or flues are clear, and looking for signs of poor combustion such as soot marks. The engineer may also check your radiators and pipework to ensure this is in good working order.'

Your engineer will also check for signs of leaks as well as the integrity of internal components and seals, cleaning or replacing parts if required.

'The exact checks - and how long they take - can vary between systems and manufacturers, but the key thing is ensuring that anyone working on a gas appliance is a Gas Safe registered engineer,' advises Rob.

A typical boiler service should take around 45-60 minutes, but if parts are required, this could increase.

FAQs

Check out our guide for even more ways to keep your home warm in winter.

Why is it that boilers, radiators and central heating systems in general always seem to choose the coldest months to stop working properly – just when we come to rely on them the most?

Rather than wait for something to go wrong or finding out you're going to have to replace your boiler, it turns out there are lots of symptoms that could point to a problem waiting to happen – and once you know what to be on the lookout for, you can fix the issue before it ever causes you any stress.

To ensure your home remains warm and cosy throughout the colder months and beyond, I reached out to the experts to find out the top signs that your boiler is about to break.

1. Strange noises

If you want to keep your house warm this winter, you need to know how your boiler is running – so spend a little time listening to it.

'One of the earliest signs of a problem is unusual noise,' elaborates Michael Zohouri, founder of Pyramid Eco. 'Boilers should run with a steady hum. If you hear any banging, whistling or gurgling sounds it’s usually a warning sign. There could be trapped air, low pressure or scale and sludge building up inside the system.'

'If your boiler has started to make odd sounds, there could be a number of causes, including a faulty pump, air in the system, sludge or rust, low water pressure, or even an accumulation of limescale,' picks up Stephen Day, operations manager at iHeat. 'One particularly common issue is 'kettling,' where the boiler sounds more like a whistling kettle than a heating system, caused by a build-up of limescale or sludge around the heat exchanger that restricts water flow and causes trapped water to overheat and boil.

'Kettling is most common in hard water areas, where limescale naturally builds up more quickly, as well as in older or neglected boilers that haven't been serviced regularly,' adds Stephen. 'In severe cases, it can cause your boiler to stop supplying hot water or even shut down entirely, leaving you without heating when you need it most.

'For kettling specifically, the problem is treatable by having a professional heating engineer carry out a power flush or chemical cleanse to remove sludge and limescale,' adds Stephen. 'You can also install a magnetic filter to prevent future debris from circulating, and use a scale reducer in hard water areas where mineral deposits accumulate more quickly.'

2. Drips and leaks

It really does pay to give your boiler a thorough onceover every so often – that way you will notice any issues as they crop up, leaks included.

'Leaks are another common indicator of a problem,' explains Stephen Day. 'They're often caused by corrosion in the pipes, but could also be down to a worn-out or broken component, such as a cracked heat exchanger.

'If you do find a leak, you should inspect it carefully, as it can sometimes be something as simple as a loose connection that needs tightening, meaning you don’t need to bring in a professional right away. If the leak continues after checking for loose connections, it's best to call in an engineer who can find and then source the replacement parts needed.'

3. Heating not working efficiently

Noticed your radiators aren't heating up properly or that your water isn't hot when it should be? Problems with your central heating are tell-tale signs that your boiler could be on the brink of a breakdown.

'Poor heating performance is a red flag to watch for, as if your boiler isn't heating your home as well as it once did, this could be down to an issue with the heat exchanger or the burner – two of the most common components that fail in a boiler,' warns Stephen Day. 'Beyond being irritating, restricted flow means your boiler has to work harder and burn more gas to achieve the same result, pushing up energy bills and placing extra strain on internal components.'

'Inconsistent hot water is another sign,' adds Michael Zohouri. 'If the water runs hot and cold during use, it often points to a failing sensor, diverter valve problems or general internal wear. Many boilers fail completely not long after this starts if it is ignored.'

4. Low boiler pressure

Your boiler pressure should be something you are regularly checking if you want to keep abreast of any potential problems.

'Another sign is pressure that keeps dropping,' explains Michael Zohouri. 'If you are regularly having to top the pressure up, there is almost always a leak somewhere in the system or an internal component starting to fail. A healthy system should hold pressure steadily.'

The ideal pressure for your boiler is 1 to 1.5 bar. You can top it up yourself using the filler valve, which looks like a little hose. Depending on the type of boiler you have, you will need to open the value a little until the pressure goes up and then close it off again.

5. Pilot light issues

If your boiler has a pilot light, this can be a great indicator of problems.

'A yellow or lazy pilot flame instead of a strong blue flame is a sign that should never be ignored,' advises Michael Zohouri. 'It can indicate poor combustion or ventilation issues and needs checking straight away.'

'If a boiler’s pilot light isn't staying lit, it can indicate a variety of possible issues,' picks up Stephen Day. 'For instance, there could be a build-up of deposits in the pilot light compartment or even a fault with the 'thermocouple' – the sensor that measures temperature.

'For a pilot light that's gone out, you should be able to address this problem quickly and easily just by restarting your boiler, though if you're not sure, you can always call a Gas Safe Engineer for further assistance,' adds Stephen.

What should you do if you spot any of these signs?

Now you know what to lookout for, what should you do if you have spotted any of these signs?

'If you notice anything affecting the flame colour, smell gas, or feel dizzy or unwell when the boiler is running, turn it off immediately and seek professional help straight away,' begins Michael Zohouri. 'For non-urgent issues like pressure loss, noise or inconsistent hot water, book a qualified engineer to inspect the system.'

FAQs

How can you keep your boiler running efficiently?

In an ideal world you want to be maintaining your boiler so well that you don't run into any issues – it could also help you save energy and money.

'Bleeding radiators at the start of the heating season removes trapped air and helps the boiler distribute heat evenly,' further advises Michael Zohouri. 'Adding inhibitor fluid to the system reduces corrosion and sludge build-up, which are two of the biggest causes of boiler damage over time.'

'One of the simplest, yet most effective, ways to improve boiler efficiency is to lower the boiler flow temperature,' adds Stephen. 'Many boilers are set by default to a high flow temperature of 70-80°C, and while this ensures fast heating, it wastes energy as excess heat escapes through the boiler flue. By lowering the flow temperature to 60°C, boilers can operate in 'condensing mode,' a more efficient state that recovers heat that would otherwise be lost. This could reduce your bills by as much as 9%, meaning the average household could save around £163 a year.

'Finally, while it might sound counterintuitive, occasionally turning your heating on during warmer months for short periods (around 30 minutes) is a good preventative measure,' continues Stephen. 'This can prevent components inside your boiler from seizing up from lack of use, ensuring functionality when winter arrives.'

How often should a boiler be serviced?

Regular boiler servicing is one of the very best ways to keep it in tip-top condition.

'Every year, your boiler should be serviced by a Gas Safe engineer to ensure that it is running safely and efficiently,' advises Stephen Day. 'By scheduling this check before the coldest weather arrives, any potential issues can be found and dealt with well before the boiler is needed the most. Identifying faults early also allows engineers to make repairs before they become major problems, optimising your boiler's efficiency and saving you money on energy bills over the long term.

'Do not wait for a full breakdown. Most of the serious boiler failures we attend in winter start as small issues that were left for weeks or months' adds Stephen. 'Getting the boiler checked early and paying for a boiler service is usually far cheaper than repairing major internal damage later.'

Good home maintenance is key to keeping your home up and running efficiently throughout the year – and its still not too late to prepare your home for winter.

When it's cold outside, it's all the more important that we stay warm inside. But temperatures like this can highlight hot and cold spots in our homes, leaving the environment anything but comfortable.

Furthermore, if you are going to the effort of keeping your home warm in winter, the last thing you want is a cold spot disrupting your plans. But in order to fix these problems, you need to understand what's causing them.

What are the most common reasons a home might have hot and cold spots?

If you've noticed you have hot and cold spots at home, it's worth doing a bit of investigating as to what is causing the issue so that you know who to call to fix it, or whether it's something you can do yourself.

To help give you a bit of a steer as to what might be causing your issue, these are the most common reasons you'll be finding drastic temperature variations around your home.

1. You've got an issue with your heating system

And obvious reason is that there is an issue with your heating system — so it's worth checking which radiators are getting hot and which aren't, as well as whether they are equally heating at the top and the bottom, as a starting point.

‘The biggest culprits are system-side: radiators that aren’t balanced, trapped air, sludge that throttles flow, and controls that switch the heat off too early,’ explains Nicholas Auckland, Managing Director at Trade Radiators. 'When one or two radiators have very short pipe runs or wide-open lockshields, they hog the flow, so distant rooms never get up to temperature. Cool tops on radiators point to air, while cold patches or a slow warm-up usually suggest sludge, stuck thermostatic radiator valve (TRV) pins, or a pump speed that’s wrong for the circuit.'

It could also be that a thermostat mistake is to blame. ‘A room thermostat sited in a warm hallway, above a radiator, or in direct sun will satisfy the boiler while lived-in rooms stay chilly,’ adds Nicholas.

In terms of solving these issues, some are simple and can be done on a DIY basis, while others will need the help of a professional.

• Radiators cold at the top? You need to bleed your radiators. Just make sure you do it in the correct order
• Radiators cold at the bottom? This is likely caused by a build up of sludge, and the only cure is to flush your radiators
• Some radiators warm and others aren't? You may need to balance your radiators or unstick the pin in a thermostatic radiator valve.

If these steps don't solve the problem, you may need to call in the pros. 'If performance is still patchy, a professional chemical clean or powerflush, new TRVs or a circulation pump, or a controls tidy-up and zoning will usually restore balance,' concludes Nicholas.

2. You've blocked heat emitters with furniture

Even if there is no issue with your heating system or radiators, check whether your furniture could be the culprit of cold spots. If you have blocked radiators with large, bulky furniture, then the heat will struggle to flow from your radiator into the rest of the room.

In small rooms especially, you may not have the luxury of choice when it comes to your furniture layout. Even pulling furniture a few inches away from your radiator can help the warm air to circulate better, warming up the space in no time. It also means your boiler won't have to work quite as hard, so it could reduce your energy usage too.

3. Your insulation is failing

Cold spots may also be a sign that your insulation needs replacing. If it's been installed properly, your insulation should last for decades, so it's worth thinking about the age of your home and whether this could be a reason your home is feeling chilly.

However, there are factors that could cause your insulation to fail much sooner. This could be moisture ingress, pest infestation, compaction or just general disturbance. The last two are particularly common in loft spaces that are used for storage.

'Hot and cold rooms usually trace back to discontinuous loft and roof insulation, blocked ventilation, and moisture in the roof void,' says Alex Morrisey, founder of Best Roofers. 'Thin or patchy insulation over eaves, around downlights and tanks, and at loft edges is common, and storage boards often compress it flat.' All of these contribute to your home feeling cold.

As what insulation is made of can be harmful, more so if there has been a pest infestation, you might want to call on a professional who will be able to determine where and how the insulation needs replacing.

4. You've got draughts that need resolving

Draughts are one of the worst offenders when it comes to rooms feeling chilly, and the good news is you can usually spot and resolve these (at least temporarily) on a DIY basis.

Older windows and doors, especially if they have single glazing, are a common cause, but you could also be dealing with draughts through floorboards and around skirting boards, loft hatches and your fireplace.

Fortunately, these inexpensive buys can help solve the problem and get your home warm and cosy again.

Another good option is to have some indoor sealant on hand, like this UniBond Fill & Repair Sealant (£15.99 at Amazon). It's ideal for sealing gaps around skirting boards and coving as well as window and door frames.

Mistakes to avoid when resolving hot and cold spots at home

While it's always a good idea to address anything that is making your home too hot or too cold, it's important to avoid mistakes while doing so. Those temperature fluctuations (and their underlying causes) can wreak havoc on your energy bills, causing you to spend more than you need to. If you inadvertently cause another issue, you could find yourself having to rectify another issue that could be costly.

The most common mistakes to dodge are:

• Ignoring the problem. By putting off investigating the cause of hot and cold spots, you not only have to live with uncomfortable temperature swings for longer, but it can also mean you have unnecessarily high bills for longer. In a few cases, delaying could lead to a more serious problem.
• Taking shortcuts. For the most effective results, especially if you are trying to resolve your hot and cold spots on a DIY basis, it's important you do it properly. Getting it wrong could mean you need to spend more by calling on a pro.
• Not calling a pro when you need to. Some tasks should be left to a professional from the get-go, so be realistic about your DIY skillset before you attempt a fix yourself. If it's not in your wheelhouse, save yourself the time and hassle and call someone to do it for you.

Resolving these hot and cold spots will not only make your home more comfortable, but could also help save energy in your home too.

While we've seen some milder temperatures for this time of year recently, but with today being the shortest day of the year, the few daylight hours means our home's have to work even harder to keep us warm.

With many of us planning on entertaining at home this Christmas, having a space that feels warm and welcoming, in the most energy efficient way, will be a top priority. For most homes, it won't be cheaper to leave the heating on all day, but fortunately I have a sure fire way to avoid those cold spells between when you're heating comes on, and if you are tactical about how you use it, it could help keep your energy bills under control over the festive season too.

And that is some form of electric heater. Now if you compare the current price of electricity and gas, it might seem like a very poor (and expensive) idea to use an electric heater in place of your central heating. But it all comes down to how and when you use it. Let me explain.

Why is it a bad idea to have your central heating on all day?

There are a number of reasons it's a bad idea for those with boilers and radiators to keep their central heating on low all day. 'When the heating is constantly running, even at a low temperature, your boiler is still working and using energy unnecessarily,' explains Nick Duggan, Director at The Radiator Centre. Instead it's a better idea to use your central heating on a timer. Nick adds: 'By heating in short, controlled bursts, you’re using less fuel overall, which makes a noticeable difference, particularly during the colder months when every saving counts.'

How well insulated your home is also plays into it. If your home leaks heat, either because of draughty doors and windows, or poor insulation, then having your heating on all day means you will be losing heat all day long, which definitely isn't good for your energy bills either.

How to complement your central heating with an electric heater

I'm very particular about how many hours a day my heating is on for, and only have it on for an hour or so in the morning, an hour at lunchtime when I work from home, and then a couple of hours in the evening.

But in between those times when the central heating kicks in, it can get chilly. And so I complement it with an electric heater that I use to take the edge off if I need it. This means I heat the room I'm in, rather than heating the whole house unnecessarily.

However, when you look at the cost of running an electric heater, they can be a pricey way to heat your home. Add to that the fact that electricity is more expensive than gas.

Fortunately, though, they heat up quickly when you turn them on, which makes them suitable to use in short, sharp bursts in a single room, which is considerably cheaper than sticking your central heating on and warming the whole house when you don't need to.

Let's take a look at how the costs compare (for these I'm using the current energy price cap figures for October-December 2025, which are 26.35p/kWh for electricity and 6.29p/kWh for gas):

• For an average house, with a 24kW boiler and 10 radiators, this will cost £1.51 per hour
• For a larger home, with a 40kW boiler and 20 radiators, this will cost around £2.52 per hour
• An electric heater, like this Dreo Whole Room 714S heater (£99.99 at Amazon) that uses between 0.9 and 2kW, costs between 24 and 53p an hour to run.

Now the main difference here is the central heating will warm your whole house for that price, whereas the electric heater will just warm the room you are in. But that's where the portability of the electric heater really shines.

If you find it feeling a bit too cool for comfort over Christmas, you can pop an electric heater in the corner, and pop it on for a bit, and you'll be toasty until your central heating comes on again. Aim to keep doors and windows closed to keep all of that lovely warm air in, and remember to turn your heater off when you're warm enough. Choosing a heater with app controls and timers makes this much easier.

Take more control with smart heating

For an even more efficient take on this idea of heating the room you are in, smart heating controls are worth investigating. They'll allow you to zone your heating system and ensure you are only heating areas of your home as and when you need them.

To keep your bills under control over the festive period, it's a good idea to make sure you aren't wasting energy with your Christmas decorations too.

There is so much to love about old houses. Their original features and the built-in character that comes with them is often one of the main attractions, as is the solid construction techniques that were used to build them – quite different from the often flimsy finishes found in modern developments.

However, there are also some downsides – in particular how cold they can be to live in once winter hits. My own home is 110 years old and, once summer is done and dusted, it can feel unbearably chilly to spend time in – even with the central heating running full blast. What this means is not only that hot water bottles and blankets become a part of my daily outfits, but also that our heating bills skyrocket. I am desperate to find a way to heat the house without turning the heating on too often.

This year I am looking into how the original residents of this house would have kept warm in winter, with no central heating. I am hoping that by using some of their methods, life here will be a little less freezy and our bills a little less eye watering – if you too want to shrink your bills and rely less on your central heating, I'm hoping we can both learn from their techniques.

1. I'm hanging heavier curtains and thermal blinds

I keep talking about doing this but haven't actually got round to it. Since switching the blind in my son's room to a thermal design, the difference has been notable. Now I am in the process of ordering thermal blinds for our living room bay window (a huge source of heat loss thanks to the original single glazing) as well as in my daughter's bedroom which is mid-makeover anyway.

I am also going to hang a thick, full length curtain at our front door which is a particularly draughty affair. The elderly lady we bought the house from had no central heating and had a velvet curtain hanging in this very spot. We swiftly took it down, but over the years I have realised just why it was there. Our hallway easily doubles up as an extra fridge when needed.

'Drawing heavy, lined curtains as soon as it gets dark acts as a barrier, trapping heat inside the room,' explains Christine Matthews, heating appliance expert at Gr8Fires. 'This is a very effective and often overlooked trick.'

Shop thermal curtains

2. Getting into the habit of closing doors

I always find it a bit creepy to go around closing doors as I go in and out of rooms, but keeping doors closed can make a huge difference in how warm a space feels, and is an important way to save energy at home. Open plan layouts were not as common in the past and before we set about renovating and extending this place, it was made up of several smaller rooms which made keeping each warmer far easier.

Not only will closing the door to a room keep the heat in but, in the case of my own home, it also keeps cold draughts out. The living room, in particular, benefits from this technique here. The aforementioned arctic entrance hall leads directly into the living room and with the door open, a frosty breeze blows on in.

Two tips here. Firstly, look into how to zone an open plan space to help it feel warmer and, secondly, if your internal doors are not particularly snug in the way they fit their frames (common in older houses), consider using draught excluders beneath them to really feel the benefits.

3. Upping the number of rugs around the house

There is a reason why our ancestors favoured the use of heavy rugs around the home – they really can help keep things feeling warm and cosy. When we moved in, there were no carpets anywhere. Instead, there were enormous room-sized threadbare rugs everywhere – a wise idea given that none of the floors were insulated.

'People made the most of whatever heat they had by keeping it in,' picks up Michael Zohouri, founder at Pyramid Eco. 'Furnishings were more suited to containing heat. People used heavy curtains to block draughts and rugs to help insulate floors. Wall hangings were also much more common to reduce cold coming through external walls.

'If you’ve got bare floors, lay down a thick rug to provide some more insulation,' continues Michael. 'Floors account for a surprising amount of heat loss in older homes, and it just makes the space feel warmer. If your feet are warm, you feel warmer overall.'

I plan on trying one of these dining room rug ideas for our open plan dining room snug space where we have engineered oak floors, one in the hallway with its toe-numbing slate flooring and a few upstairs in the bedrooms where, although we have carpet, I think it will just add another layer of warmth.

Shop cosy rugs

4. Addressing the draughty front door

Back to the front door – a massive source of heat loss and one of the main spots where freezing cold winds come whistling into the house. The radiator in the hallway where the front door lies has also stopped working in the last few weeks so I really am trying to keep it warm without central heating right now.

While I have already been adding draughtproofing around the windows, I have yet to address the door – adding draughtproof strips, like this draught excluder tape (£4.99 from Amazon), is on my imminent to-do list.

'You need to stop as much heat escaping as possible,' explains Michael Zohouri. 'So that means blocking draughts and insulating the parts of your home where warmth is most easily lost. Anywhere that cold air is getting in – add draught excluders at the bottom of internal doors, draughtproof the front door and seal gaps around windows, as well as your letterbox and keyhole.'

5. Embracing the concept of 'heat zoning'

One big tip we should all be taking from our ancestors is the way in which they focussed on heating the spaces they were actually in as opposed to the whole house, gathering together to make the most of that warmth.

'One of the easiest ways to save is to change your heating habits,' says Christine Matthews. 'If most of the household is spending an evening together in one room, consider using a space heater, or a freestanding portable wood-burning stove to heat just that space for a few hours. This 'zonal heating' approach can keep the family warm without having to turn on the central heating for the whole house which can lead to substantial savings.'

'Homes were built with smaller rooms that were easier to warm up and contain the heat in,' points out Michael Zohouri. 'Open fires were the main source of heat, so families often stayed in one room together to conserve warmth. And the way people dressed indoors was more suited to winter too. You’d have more thick, heavy clothing.'

6. Getting into the habit of lighting my log burner earlier

The log burning stove that sits at the heart of our open plan kitchen diner kicks out lots of heat once it gets going and is one of the most efficient ways of heating up our home. However, unlike homeowners of yesteryear, I tend to leave it until my teeth are chattering to light it up when I should really be getting in there early and letting it get the space nice and warm for the day ahead.

'Light it properly to get a hot, efficient fire going quickly,' picks up Christine Matthews. 'And use a stove fan (a small, heat-powered fan that sits on top) to circulate warm air further into the room.' You can pick a stove fan, like this one, up from Amazon for around £10.

'Additionally, always burn dry, well-seasoned wood,' continues Christine. 'Wet wood wastes a huge amount of energy evaporating water instead of heating your home.'

FAQs

How did Edwardians heat their homes?

My house was built at the end of the Edwardian housing era. It is a cottage in a very rural area. As such, the original occupants would not have had any kind of central heating (although some grander Edwardian properties may have benefited from early cast iron radiators).

Edwardians were still relying heavily on open fires and stoves, usually fuelled by coal, and our own home featured two open fireplaces, once of which we now use for a log burner.

Other ways they would have stayed warm would have been to hang thick curtains over windows and doors, laid hefty floor rugs and used bed warmers (early hot water bottles.) They would also have worn thicker layers of clothing indoors than we do now.

The lady who lived in our house before us (and had done for 50 years) was relying on electric heaters to keep warm, moving them around the house with her. As someone who works from home, I have often wondered about buying one of these heaters to try to keep a little warmer myself, but how much does it cost to run an electric heater and would I be better off just using the above methods instead? Take a look at our guide.

While we're seeing some milder temperatures than we may be used to in December, it's an ideal time to check that your radiators are in good working order ahead of the inevitable cold snap (and not to mention the festive period).

If, like me, you've always felt pretty confident when it comes to how to bleed a radiator, it might surprise you to know that you should be bleeding your radiators in a very particular order, and for good reason.

Whenever I've spotted a radiator not heating up properly, I've bled that one as a priority, regardless of where it's located, before moving on to the others in whatever order I reach them as I move around my house. But after chatting with heating experts, it turns out, this is definitely not the right approach. This is what they told me we should all be doing instead.

What order should you bleed radiators in?

It turns out that the order in which you bleed your radiators matters, and the consensus among the experts I spoke to for this article agreed that you should start with the radiator furthest away from the boiler.

'Bleeding in the wrong order can actually shuffle air around the system rather than removing it,' says Patrick Garner, Gas Safe Engineer at Heatable. 'By starting at the furthest radiator, you’re letting the system release air in a logical, consistent direction.

'It prevents pockets of air from getting pushed into radiators you’ve already sorted, and it helps your heating run more smoothly - with fewer cold spots and less strain on the boiler.'

'Start bleeding at the radiator furthest from the boiler on the lowest floor, work radiator by radiator towards the boiler, then move upstairs and repeat from the furthest to the nearest,' says Nicholas Auckland, MD at Trade Radiators. 'If you're in a bungalow, start at the furthest radiator and work back to the boiler.'

Logic might tell you to start with the radiators upstairs first, but as Sam Carter, radiator expert at Appliances Direct says, this may not be the most effective method. 'If you bleed the upstairs radiators first, trapped air bubbles may eventually rise up and get stuck in the radiators you just cleared.'

But by starting with the radiators furthest from the boiler on the ground floor, before repeating the process upstairs, you will achieve a better result, as Nicholas explains: 'Air rises and collects in high points and at the ends of long runs, so tackling the hardest to purge first prevents pockets of air being pushed further out into the system. By the time you reach the upstairs rads, most air has migrated there and is easy to release, which reduces repeats and helps the pump circulate water evenly.'

Should you bleed all your radiators or just the ones that feel cold at the top?

It's a good idea to bleed all of your radiators, as any trapped air can move around the system, affecting radiators that were previously working without issue.

'In reality, if one radiator needs bleeding, there’s a good chance several do. A quick check of the whole house only takes a minute,' says Patrick.

By following a specific order when it comes to bleeding, 'It also means you're less likely to miss a radiator, adds Lincoln Smith from Custom Heat. 'That said, if you've got a radiator that's clearly cold at the top and hot at the bottom, that's a dead giveaway it needs bleeding regardless of where it sits in your sequence.'

How often should you bleed your radiators?

Now you know the correct order in which to bleed your radiators, how often do you need to do it? Bleeding your radiators is one of those things you should do every year, before the cold weather hits. But if you are finding your radiators are cold at the top, when the heating is on, on a regular basis then that's a sign that something is amiss.

'If you're having to bleed the same radiator every few weeks, that's not normal,' explains Lincoln. 'It means your system is drawing air in from somewhere, possibly through a leak or a faulty valve, and that needs investigating by a professional.'

How do you know if you've bled your radiators correctly?

If you don't already have one, it's best to use a radiator bleeding key, like this one from Amazon (£4.99), a cloth and something to use as a tray to catch any water drips when bleeding your radiators. Alternatively, you could try an all in one option, like this WENKO radiator bleeding tool, £10.15 also from Amazon.

If you don't have one, it is possible to bleed a radiator without a key, although this should be an emergency measure rather than a go-to measure.

Once you've used the right kit, and are approaching your bleeding in the right order, there are key signs to watch out for to ensure you've done it properly. 'You’ll know a radiator is properly bled when the initial hissing of air stops and you get a steady, bubble-free stream of water from the bleed point,' says Nicholas. 'Close the valve as soon as the water runs cleanly, then wipe the valve area dry and nip it shut without over-tightening. When you turn the heating back on, that radiator should heat evenly top to bottom with no cool top edge.'

FAQs

While you're bleeding your radiators, if you notice signs of a radiator leak you can try these DIY tips to try and fix it before calling in the pros.

What do those people with 'always warm' homes do that means they always seem to have a cosy home no matter the weather outside? Yes, they do probably have good insulation and heating systems, but there are other tricks many of them use to stave off the chill in winter.

Improving insulation and heating systems is essential in creating a warm and cosy home. Unfortunately, it's also costly and time-consuming to install. As the temperature continues to drop as we creep closer to Christmas, we are all on the hunt for quick and easy ways to keep our homes warm in winter. Even if it's just to stop our mother-in-law complaining about how chilly the house is on Christmas day.

Thankfully, there are a few things that can make a difference to the temperature of your home beyond investing in the best oil-filled radiator or a full insulation revamp. I've done the research, asked the experts, friends and family, and anyone I know with a miraculously 'always warm' home what they use to keep the chill off, and this is what I found.

1. Clean radiators

Before you put your heating on for the first time, be sure to clean behind your radiators

According to Glen Peskett, DIY expert at Saxton Blades, cleaning behind and under radiators can improve heating efficiency by as much as 25% and save up to £119 a year on heating bills. This is because a buildup of dust and dirt can restrict the warm air circulation.

'Turn off the heating, then use a radiator brush or long-handled duster to sweep dust from behind and between panels,' says Glen.

Brushes like these from Amazon make cleaning these awkward crevices easy and cost less than £10, potentially saving you £100. Plus, while you're in the spirit of radiator maintenance, it's worth checking whether you need to bleed a radiator – one of the most obvious signs is if strange noises are coming from your radiator – or even flush a radiator to ensure everything is working efficiently.

2. Carpets and rugs

According to experts from Tapi Carpets, an average of 10-20% of heat loss occurs through your floors. Carpets, especially when paired with a high-tog underlay, will help insulate the room and reduce the impact of draughts. Of course, carpets are a costly and time-consuming purchase – usually part of a larger renovation project.

For a quicker and more instant way to cosy up a room, add rugs to any room with solid floors. Not only do rugs feel warm underfoot, but if you pick a natural material like wool, they will offer insulating benefits, disrupting the flow of cold air and acting as a thermal barrier to keep the heat in the room. Make it even warmer by pairing a wool rug with a thermal insulating wool-rich underlay, like this from Amazon

3. Insulating curtains and blinds

Making your home's decor work for you is essential in creating a warm house. Something as simple as a curtain thermal lining – like this from Dunelm – makes a huge difference to the temperature of your home.

'By adding an extra layer of insulation at your windows, thermal linings help to reduce heat loss during the colder months and keep your rooms warmer for longer. This can make a noticeable difference to both comfort and energy bills. In addition to thermal linings, thermal blinds and layered window dressings, such as pairing curtains with blinds, can further enhance insulation by minimising draughts and trapping warmth inside,' says Yvonne Keal, product expert at Hillarys.

This can then result in money savings. 'According to money saving expert Matilda @amillennialsaver, curtains can keep up to 4% more heat in your home than blinds, and so, opting for thicker curtains can be even better. Make sure you close them at night, as this can reduce your home’s heat loss by 15-17%,' says Joshua Hammonds, marketing manager at Hammonds Furniture.

4. Draught excluders

According to building suppliers, Elliots, 'even a 0.3cm gap under a standard exterior door can let as much cold air into your home as a 6cm hole punched in the wall.' So it is no surprise that installing a draught excluder can save you £85 per year on energy bills, as calculated by the Energy Saving Trust.

To test for draughts, Joe Ragdale, technical director at Wetherby Wall Systems, advises testing the gaps around your doors and windows using a lit candle: ‘If the flame flickers, it indicates a draught.’

Classic pillow-style draught excluders – we love this cute bow design from Next – are ideal for blocking up gaps and can be used in any room of the home.

However, when draught-proofing a front door, door sweeps and weatherstripping can provide a more permanent solution. Be sure not to forget letterboxes; installing a design with brushes inside and a flap on the reverse – like this from Amazon – can make a huge difference.

Don't forget to draughtproof windows, too.

5. Warm toned light bulbs

While the tone of light bulbs doesn't really increase the temperature of a room, it can make a significant difference in the way a room makes us feel, and sometimes that's half the battle.

Look for bulbs with a temperature rating of 1500K to 2000K; these are the warmest and have a temperature akin to that of flickering candles and cosy sunsets. These warm associations help create a cosy, intimate atmosphere – ideal for living room lighting.

To up the cosy even further, interior design Emma Deterding advises ‘supplementing your ceiling or wall lights with a mixture of table and floor lamps, and opt for dimmer controls to allow you to create a cosy mood. Also, don’t forget to bring candles into the scheme – the flicker of the flame is so relaxing.’

Investing in smart light bulbs lets you have total control over the colour and temperature of the bulbs. For ultimate flexibility, consider bulbs like these from Amazon, which you can set to get warmer as the sun sets.

The days are only going to get colder for the rest of winter, so stock up now and cosy up.

Most homeowners in the UK know that they need to brace themselves for the onset of rain and falling temperatures come winter, but those who also happen to live in older houses, like me, also need to prepare themselves for the onset of chilly conditions inside their properties as well as out. And in my experience, it really does pay to look into ways of keeping a house warm in winter early in the season.

My house is cold all year long and, in all fairness, during the summer this is something of a blessing. However, as someone who works from home, come autumn, as the thermometer falls even lower, the icy nature of my house can get a bit much – blue fingers, dripping nose and numb toes are all frequently experienced.

Having lived here for some years now though, I have gradually built up an arsenal of effective ways of battling the cold in this house without facing eye-watering heating bills – here are my top eight.

1. Get in the habit of closing doors all around the house

This sounds so simple (and it is) but it really is one of the most effective ways I've found of keeping the various rooms within my old cottage warm as well as saving energy.

Closing the doors that leads from our incredibly cold entrance hallway, which features a draughty original front door and uninsulated slate floor, into our living room makes an unbelievable difference, as does keeping the bedroom doors upstairs shut during the day. This is also essential if you plan on using one of the best oil-filled radiators or electric heaters to keep yourself warm before using your central heating.

The one room this doesn't work for is the downstairs toilet. The room features an uninsulated, solid external wall and no insulation in the floor either – it is actually better to keep this door open (when not in use!) so it can benefit from the warm air in the adjacent space.

2. Turn the heating on first thing in the morning

Whether you have smart heating, your heating runs on a timer, or you turn it on and off manually (like us thanks to never having got around to programming our system properly), the times of day you set your heating to power up can make all the difference when it comes to how comfortable your house is to spend time in.

For us, after a night with the heating off, we wake to some toe-curlingly low temperatures, but turning the heating on first thing soon sorts the problem. It turns out we are doing the right thing here.

'It’s far more cost-effective to turn the heating off at night,' says Stephen Hankinson, heating expert at Electric Radiators Direct. 'The same applies if you’re out during the day, there’s no need to heat up an empty house.

'Just after sunrise is the coldest part of the day so I suggest turning your heating on for a short burst first thing when you wake up,' continues Stephen. 'This takes the edge off as you get out of bed and sets your home up for the day without wasting energy by running it for too long.'

3. Pop draught excluders underneath the doors

I'm not sure why it took me so long to realise how effective draught excluders can be when it comes to the best draught proofing ideas – but given the very ill-fitting nature of our doors (internal and external), simply investing in a few high quality models has really helped keep the house feeling cosy and snug.

We use one under the door from the hallway into the living room and another between the living room and open plan kitchen diner. I am about to buy another to sit beneath the front door too although I'll need to track down a really heavy duty, and preferably machine-washable one here given that it'll be located in our busy hallway.

I'd really recommend either shopping in person for a draught excluder or being really careful to read a wide range of verified reviews if buying online as some are really flimsy and just not fit for purpose – I learnt the hard way.

Shop the best draught excluders

4. Light the fire and the log burner

We have a log burning stove in the open-plan kitchen/diner/snug area of our home, and an open fire in the living room. Both act as brilliant sources of secondary heating, teamed with our radiators.

The log burner is the more effective of the two, heating up the open-plan space in no time at all, happily simmering away in the background while using less in the way of fuel than the open fire. We just light it mid-morning and let it do its thing – even if it has all but gone out by the evening, it continues to emit warmth – even into the bedroom above which shares its chimney.

While the open fire has less of whole-house warming effect, if we ensure the living room doors stay shut, it does a pretty good job.

5. Start running the dehumidifier more regularly

I never realised how effective the best dehumidifiers are at taking the chill out of a space, but given how they work to regulate the humidity in a room, it does make sense.

'Water vapour is held in humid air, which has a higher heat capacity than dry air – so it takes more energy to heat,' explains Meaco's CEO, Chris Michael. 'For this reason, a house with high humidity feels colder and this, in turn, forces their heating systems to work harder to get to and maintain a comfortable temperature.'

In addition to helping to make the room it is in feel warmer (usually our bedroom), our dehumidifier also dries out wet washing much faster.

Shop dehumidifiers

6. Leave the oven open after cooking

Using the residual heat from other appliances to make the house feel more comfortable just makes sense if you want to heat you home without turning the heating on. Just as when trying to keep a house cool in summer you might reduce your use of heat-generating appliances, such as lamps, ovens, hairdryers and so on, in winter, it makes sense to make the most of them.

While I am not suggesting you crank up your cooker and open up the door in order to get your kitchen feeling nice and cosy (this would clearly be incredibly wasteful), I find that, after turning it off, leaving the door open really makes a difference to the temperature within our entire open plan set-up for some time afterwards.

The same effect can be had by leaving the dishwasher open after use and I never miss the opportunity to negate my daughter's over-zealous use of the hairdryer by shutting the door to the room she is blasting it away in.

7. Bleed the radiators

In the past, I have noticed our radiators feeling rather patchy, with cold spots – some alarmingly large. This has been due to the fact that we haven't been diligent when it comes to bleeding them.

'Less than 30% of people regularly bleed a radiator and this leads to cold spots that are caused by trapped air,' explains Joanna O’Loan, knowledge manager at Energy Saving Trust. 'Bleeding a radiator is simple. All you need is a radiator bleed key (try this Solid Brass Radiator Bleed Key Set from Amazon), an old towel and something to collect any water in.'

Joanna has a few more tips on how to get the most out of your radiators this winter.

'Don’t block radiators with furniture, otherwise it makes your heating system less effective,' she says. 'Move sofas and other heavy furniture away from radiators and remove radiator covers.'

8. Check all our draught proofing is in good condition

While we have spent the last few winters upgrading our door and window draught proofing, I've found it is sill useful to give it all a once over before the cold weather sets in as it can, over time, move around or get damaged.

'Fitting draught proofing strips to windows and doors is a relatively quick and easy job that can make a big difference,' says Joanna O'Loan. 'Cutting out draughts stops heat escaping and prevents cold air from entering your home. You’ll feel warmer and might even be able to turn your heating down.'

This is a simple DIY task and if you haven't yet added any draught proofing to your windows and doors now is definitely the time. Team this with some good, thick thermal curtains or blinds and your windows will no longer be sucking the heat from your home.

FAQs

Should you insulate your hot water tank?

I have often meant to address this one myself and it is definitely something on my to-do list.

'If you have a hot water tank, make sure it’s well insulated,' advises Joanna O'Loan. 'Adding extra insulation to your tank keeps the water warmer for longer, If you have an older cylinder, it may only have 25mm thick foam insulation. By spending £16 to top this up with an 80mm insulation jacket, a typical home can save £40 each year on energy bills. You can buy these jackets from DIY shops and fit them yourself.

'If you’re waiting a long time for your water to heat up, this could be a sign you also need to top up the insulation on your hot water pipes,' adds Joanna. 'This will reduce heat loss and can be a DIY job. Insulating all the exposed hot water pipes in a typical semi-detached house will cost around £15 and save you £6 every year in the future on your bills. It sounds small, but all the small things add up to much bigger savings.'

Now is the time to prepare your home for winter – don't wait until weather conditions really deteriorate to make any upgrades.

When the temperature drops at this time of year, we all use our heating more in order to stay warm. An unhappy side effect of that is that our energy bills are the highest at this time of year too. But it turns out that you could be wasting money unnecessarily if you are using your thermostat wrong.

Knowing how to save energy at home is vital if you want to keep your gas and electricity bill as low as possible. But our heating systems can often feel like minefields, with people reluctant to mess with it for fear of causing it to fail at a time of year it's needed most.

However, according to heating experts, there are a whole host of simple errors that households make when it comes to room thermostats that are wasting energy and sending heating bills soaring. Fortunately, they are easily rectified.

How many do you think you're guilty of making?

1. Whacking your thermostat up to heat your home faster

When it comes to how a thermostat works, it's a common misconception that turning your thermostat up to a higher temperature will heat your home quicker, and it's one that heating experts advise against.

'Many people believe that turning the thermostat up higher will heat their home faster, but it doesn’t,’ explains Adam Knight, Lead Engineer at BOXT. ‘Your heating system works at the same speed no matter what temperature you select. Instead, set your desired temperature and let the thermostat do the work. It will only call for heat when needed, keeping your home comfortable without wasting energy.’

Instead, it's best to programme your heating to come on about 30 minutes before you are due to return home, so you aren't coming back to what feels like a fridge. This is really easy with a smart thermostat, like this Hive version, that's currently on sale at Amazon for £64.

If that's not feasible, then it could be worth having one of the best oil-filled radiators or electric heaters on hand to temporarily take the edge off in the room you are in while you wait for the central heating to warm up. These plug-in options will heat up quickly and are most cost-efficient when used in short bursts.

2. Never adjusting the temperature

If you never adjust the temperature on your thermostat, you're definitely wasting energy unnecessarily. Get into the habit of adjusting your thermostat before you go to bed to reduce your energy bills.

'Many homes stay at daytime temperatures even when everyone is asleep, which wastes energy because most people are comfortable at a lower setting overnight,' says Adam. 'Turning the thermostat down by a couple of degrees at night reduces costs without affecting comfort, saving money while you sleep.'

This will also ensure that you pay more attention to the temperature your thermostat is set at, and determine whether you could actually be as comfortable in your home if you knock it down a degree or two, which can save around £100 per year on your energy bills.

3. Not scheduling your heating

Another mistake you may have been making with your thermostat is having it set on a low temperature, but leaving your heating on constantly, instead of programming it to come on only when you need it.

'Scheduling your heating, so it is off when you are not at home can be a big energy cost saver,' explains Stephen Hankinson, heating expert at Electric Radiators Direct. 'If you like being comfortable as you get ready in the morning, you can program your heating to switch on just before you wake up and then off again by the time you leave. Remember the program may need adjusting when the clocks change.

'Similarly, if you’re going away for an evening or a few days, make sure to change your heating schedule to reflect this and ensure you’re not wasting money heating a space that doesn’t need it.'

If you are going away over Christmas, it's best not to turn your heating off completely, especially if it's going to be cold. Instead, have it come on a couple of times at a lower temperature to prevent pipes from freezing.

4. Putting your thermostat in the wrong place

In order for your thermostat to control your heating most efficiently, it needs to be positioned correctly. If a professional installed yours, then it's likely that it is (although never hurts to double check). However, if you installed yours, or moved it from it's original position (which is not recommended) on a DIY basis, you may have got it wrong.

'The most common mistake we see when it comes to thermostats is incorrect placement,' reveals James Clark, Technical Training Manager at Wiser. 'Your thermostat should always be placed in a position where it can accurately respond to the temperature of the room, so must be away from radiators or other appliances which give off heat. Similarly, you should always make sure your thermostat is not in direct sunlight or placed in a draughty area either, or it won’t take an accurate reading.'

5. Sticking with a dated thermostat

If you have a thermostat that sets a single temperature for your whole home, including rooms you don't use as often as others, then you're likely paying for energy you don't need.

'Relying on a single thermostat for the whole home often means you are overheating rooms that are barely used. Bedrooms, spare rooms and home offices do not all need to be at the same temperature at the same time. Zoning or smart controls can help target heat where it is actually needed and cut unnecessary waste.'

Upgrading to a smart thermostat, like the Google Nest Learning Thermostat, (£95.28, without installation, from Amazon, or Hive Thermostat (£119 from Hive Home), can give you better control (you can control your heating from your phone), and allow you to zone you home to heat where you need when you need. It's crucial that you select a smart thermostat that is compatible with your heating system so do check carefully before you buy.

6. Having the wrong kind of thermostat

If you do want to upgrade your room thermostat, then it's important you choose one that is compatible with your specific system. Some work with conventional boilers, while others only work with combi-boilers for example.

'Not all thermostats work with all systems, so you need to make sure the one you choose is compatible,' says heating expert Stephen. 'Some thermostats are manual, while others are smart and can be controlled with your phone, so it’s worth deciding which will suit you best. It’s also worth checking whether you need professional installation, especially if the wiring in your home is complicated, or if you’re upgrading from an older model.'

You should take into account your lifestyle too. 'If your routine is the same every day, a simple programmable thermostat will be enough,' adds Stephen. 'But if your schedule changes regularly, a smart thermostat might be better, as it can learn your habits, be controlled remotely, and help you save more energy.'

7. Having your boiler thermostat too high

Many households with a combi-boiler won't realise that they actually have two thermostats in their home — a room thermostat and a boiler thermostat.

And having this boiler thermostat on too high is another energy-wasting mistake people are making. 'If you’re one of the 17m households with a Combi boiler it’s worth reducing the boiler thermostat down to 55°C - 60°C, this will ensure the boiler condenses more and increases its efficiency,' advises Martyn Bridges, Director of External Affairs at Worcester Bosch. 'If you have a Regular or Conventional boiler and a hot water storage cylinder then this isn’t an option as you need the thermostat to be relatively high to adequately and safely heat the hot water storage cylinder to over 60°C.'

FAQs

For more ways to keep warm at home, while keeping your heating bills as low as possible, try these home upgrades to keep the winter chill away.

The recent cold snap has given us a hint as to what we can expect for the rest of the winter — chilly times that will leave us all reaching for our thermostats to keep warm. But how many hours a day should you have your heating on to stay warm without sending your bills soaring?

After all, those frosty temperatures can wreak havoc with our heating bills at a time when we'd all rather save our hard-earned pennies for some festive fun instead. So it pays to know the most efficient way to heat your house.

I put the question as to how long your heating should be on each day to the heating pros to find the answer.

How many hours a day should your heating be on?

There's actually no set rule as to how many hours a day your heating should be on for, but it can be helpful to understand what other homeowners do to see whether you are using more or less heat to keep warm, as this could highlight any issues with heat retention your home may have.

'Most average working households have people out during the day and mainly home in the mornings and evenings,' explains Nicholas Auckland, heating and energy expert at Trade Radiators. 'Using this, we usually find that they'll only need their heating on for a few hours split across the day, such as 2 or 3 hours in the morning and up to 5 hours at night. This would be a maximum of 8 hours of having the heating on.'

But it's important to remember that every household is different, with a range of needs and preferences, so what works for one home may not be right for yours.

What factors impact how long your heating should be on for?

How long you need to have your heating on in order to stay warm will depend on a few important factors.

'Not only does it depend on when members of the household are home, but it also depends on how the house holds heat, the type of heating used and even the age and circumstances of the individual household members,' says Nicholas.

It's worth considering how your home holds up against these factors when seeing if you could be using your heating more efficiently.

1. How well insulated your home is. If your home is well insulated, it will hold on to the heat you generate long after the boiler goes off. But if there are signs your insulation needs replacing, you could be losing heat more quickly, and therefore needing to put your central heating on for longer.
2. How many radiators you have. The more radiators you have in your home, the warmer it'll feel, but fewer radiators means your heating will have to work harder (and be on longer) to heat your home.
3. How quickly your boiler heats up your radiators. 'If you have a newer boiler, it'll likely be quicker at heating up the rest of your home,' says Nicholas. 'If your home heats up quickly and has good insulation, you'll likely need to have the heating on less.'
4. The orientation of your home. If your home faces south, you may benefit from solar gain, which will help warm it up before you need to use your heating. But if it faces north, you could find it feeling chillier and needing to use your heating more.
5. The age and heath of your household. If you have babies, young children, elderly relatives or anyone with a health concern in your household, you may need to have the heating on longer or at a higher temperature.

What's a good example heating schedule for the average home?

Despite rumours to the contrary, it's not cheaper to leave your heating on low all day, and so programming your heating to come on at set times is a wiser option.

'Running your heating on a timer is always the smarter choice compared to leaving it on low all day,' explains Nick Duggan, Director of The Radiator Centre. 'When the heating is constantly running, even at a low temperature, your boiler is still working and using energy unnecessarily. By setting a timer, you’re only warming your home when you actually need it, so you get comfort without the waste.

'This approach will absolutely help reduce your energy bills. By heating in short, controlled bursts, you’re using less fuel overall, which makes a noticeable difference, particularly during the colder months when every saving counts.'

To help control your heating in the most efficient way possible, investing in a smart thermostat can help, like this Hive version on sale at Amazon, for £68. Compatible with combi boilers, the Hive is really easy to use, and you can use its companion app to control and schedule your heating from anywhere.

If room-by-room control is more of what you are after, then the Tado Wireless Smart Thermostat X, available on Amazon, used in conjunction with thermostatic radiator valves, is a good option for complete heating control.

But what's a good schedule to follow if you want to find the sweet spot between warmth and efficiency?

• First thing in the morning. 'Setting your heating to come on around half an hour before you wake up will ensure your home is warm in the morning,' says heating expert Jamie Heath from Build & Plumb.
• Off during the day if you won't be home. 'If you’re out during the day, it’s best to program your heating system to turn on in the morning and remain off until you return in the evening,' adds Jamie. 'This will prevent you from wasting energy during the day when your house is not in use.'
• Or a lunchtime burst if you are home during the day. If you find you get a bit chilly while you're home during the day, it can be better to use a oil-filled radiator or electric heater to heat the room you are in, rather than the whole house unnecessarily.
• Later afternoon/early evening. Timing your heating to come on about 30 minutes before you get home will ensure you're coming home to a place that feels warm and cosy, and not like a fridge. Having it on for a couple of hours may be all that's needed, depending on how well your home retains heat.

'Alternatively, rather than turning your heating off completely when leaving the house, you can program a ‘setback’ temperature on your thermostat,' advises Jamie. 'This programs your heating to turn on if your house temperature drops below a certain temperature, typically between 16°C to 18°C. Programming a ‘setback’ temperature is highly beneficial as it prevents your house from becoming too cold when you’re away or asleep, which can cause problems like damp or mould, without consuming too much energy.'

Remember, you might need to switch your schedule up when it comes to how many hours a day your heating should be on in spring.

FAQs

What are your options if you are still cold?

If you've got your heating on a schedule, but feel like you are constantly clicking the 'Extra Hour' button but cringing at the added expense, there are fortunately plenty of other effective solutions that can help you stay warm without relying on your central heating more than you need to.

But remember, for these options to be most effective, it's worth keeping doors and windows closed and blocking any draughts. This draught excluder strip, £5 from Amazon, is really effective and budget-friendly.

For a cosy option that uses no electricity at all, you can't go wrong with a cosy winter throw, like this sherpa fleece blanket, also from Amazon.

For a more long-term solution for making your home warmer in winter, it's a good idea to get your heating system and existing insulation assessed so that they are working in harmony with each other.

If you want to reduce your heating and electricity bills, then follow our tips for how to save energy at home.

While open-plan spaces have much to offer homeowners, creating a more sociable layout, allowing natural light to flow effortlessly around the home and helping small areas feel more spacious, keeping them warm, especially now that temperatures have dropped, without facing huge heating bills can be tricky.

In the case of my own home, our open-plan kitchen ideas form the main bulk of the ground floor, with the kitchen, dining room and snug making up the space. While we have some division in the form of a peninsula between the kitchen and dining room and a partial wall between the snug and dining area, during previous winters, we have found ourselves struggling to keep things feeling cosy.

In recent years, however, there are certain methods we've used that have made a huge difference to the temperature and we are also planning on trying out some new ones this winter – hopefully, I can help you keep your own layout warmer by sharing these with you here.

1. Woodburning stove

Our wood burning stove sits within the dining space of our open-plan set-up and I can honestly say that, when working from home on a cold day, I'm not sure where I'd be without it. In under an hour, it works to heat up all three areas and keep it them warm, even while just simmering away in the background.

'A lot of people choose wood stoves for open-plan living because they add a nice atmosphere and a lot of heat,' picks up Gordon Chalk, MD of Next Level Screed Underfloor Heating and Screed Solutions. 'A wood stove of the right size could be the main source of heat in a small, well-insulated open-plan room, while they are often used as an extra heat source in larger rooms, giving a focal point and a big warmth boost, especially on colder nights, to go along with a main heating system like underfloor heating or radiators.'

That said, there are a few points to note here. At times, when seated at the dining table which sits next to the log burner, things can get a little too toasty.

'The biggest problem with wood stoves in open-plan is that they can get too hot,' says Gordon Chalk. 'It is very important to make sure that they are the right size for the room. If your stove is too big, you'll have to run it inefficiently (smouldering) or open the windows to keep it from getting too hot, which wastes fuel and makes the air dirty. A heat output estimate can be done by an engineer who is registered with HETAS. You'll also need to make sure the room has enough air flow. You might like to think about getting a multi-fuel stove instead as these give you more options because they let you burn approved smokeless fuels along with wood.'

2. An even spread of radiators

Along with the log burning stove, each room within the open-plan space has a radiator, and we definitely need these, although I have to admit that, up until recently, the one in the dining room was hidden behind a sizeable dresser. Since moving said item of furniture, it is much more effective – surprise surprise...

'Even though UFH is our first choice, radiators can still work in open-plan rooms with a little more thought,' says Gordon Chalk. 'Size is very important here. It's possible that you'll need more radiators or those that are bigger and more powerful than you would in a number of smaller rooms. A skilled heat loss calculation is needed to make sure that enough heat is sent to the whole area.

'Instead of just one or two big radiators, it's often better to have a bunch of smaller radiators dotted around the outside of an open-plan space,' further advises Gordon. 'To keep the heat from escaping through outside walls and big windows, this helps to spread it out more evenly – and putting a radiator under a window can still be a good idea because it blocks the cold air that can come in.

'If you plan on heating a big open space with radiators, it can be helpful to have separate thermostat settings for each area,' continues Gordon. 'Modern adjustable radiator valves (TRVs) are very important because they let you control the temperature of each radiator, so one area doesn't get too hot while another stays cool. Modern, designer radiators come in many sizes, shapes, and orientations. They can even be built into furniture or used to split rooms, which makes them less noticeable in an open-plan space.'

3. Closing doors from other rooms

This might sound simple but it never fails to amaze me how much closing the door from our hallway and living room, leading into the open-plan space, helps to make it feel warmer. I suppose it is just one less source of heat loss to add to the chill on a cold day.

'Closing internal doors and using draught excluders reduces the amount of heat moving into colder areas of your home,' says Joanna O’Loan, knowledge manager at Energy Saving Trust. 'This helps keep the heat in the rooms you use most often, making them feel more comfortable.'

We now use several draught excluders beneath the doors that lead into the open-plan space too and they have made all the difference. It is important to point out here that I originally tried to save money by buying cheap designs but they were flimsy and too lightweight to make much of a difference – so bear this in mind if you are planning on trying out this tip for your own open-plan living room ideas.

Shop draught excluders

4. Improving our draught proofing

Our open-plan space is largely new, formed by two extensions that we built shortly after moving in. This means that the windows and doors are double glazed. However, the stable door that leads to outside from the kitchen is not particularly well-fitting, even letting in water from the bottom in heavy rain. Adding to our draught proofing ideas by using self-adhesive strips like this Draught Excluder Tape from Amazon has made all the difference.

'Drafts are easier to see and feel when there is a lot of space between the pages,' explains Gordon Chalk. 'All gaps around windows, doors and any holes in the building skin should be sealed.'

If you have an open fire or open chimney in your open-plan space, it will be well worth considering adding draught proofing here too as, according to Energy Saving Trust, this could save you up to £60 per year on your energy bills.

Additional steps we're taking to warm our open-plan space up

We are now planning on building an extension again, adding an oak-framed porch to the front of the house and a large utility room leading off the existing kitchen. This seems like the perfect time to consider adding in a few new ways of keeping the space at a comfortable temperature.

Here are the measures we are strongly considering.

1. Underfloor heating

As part of the extension work, I really want to refresh and update the kitchen. The flooring we originally chose – large format riven slate tiles – look great when they are nice and clean, but show up every tiny speck of dirt and are incredibly cold underfoot.

Along with changing our flooring for something inherently warmer, such as limestone or timber, underfloor heating is high on my wish-list.

'In an open-plan room, underfloor heating is the one thing we'd encourage you to install more than anything else. It really does change things,' says Gordon Chalk. 'Hot air rises, cools, and then falls because of convection currents made by radiators. In an open area this can cause hot and cold spots – not ideal. On the other hand, UFH gives off heat from the whole surface, warming the space evenly from the ground up.

'UFH works at a flow temperature lower than radiators, usually between 35°C and 55°C instead of 60°C to 80°C,' continues Gordon. 'This makes it very efficient especially when paired with new condensing stoves or, even better, green heat sources such as air source heat pumps.

'Finally, carefully consider the type of flooring you use,' adds Gordon. 'Tiles and natural stone are great for UFH because they are good at moving heat around. You could also use engineered wood, but make sure it's approved for use with underfloor heating. It is possible for carpets with a suitable underlay to work, but they will not be as sensitive or produce as much heat.'

Thermal curtains and blinds

We currently have no curtains or blinds at either of the windows in the kitchen. In the snug, the frames of our bi-fold doors feature an integral blackout blind which actually works very well. I really believe that adding thermal window dressings would transform the way the kitchen feels on a chilly morning.

Thermal blinds will probably be the best choice for our kitchen and I'm looking into those with a cellular, honeycomb-like structure which trap heat and prevent heat loss. They come in all kinds of designs and I'm thinking of a roller for the stable door and Roman blinds for the window by the kitchen sink.

'Heavy thermal curtains or smart blinds can help keep heat in at night and keep the sun from causing overheating through large areas of glass during the day,' says Gordon Chalk.

FAQs

How do you get underfloor heating right in an open-plan space?

While I am keen to look into installing underfloor heating within both our existing open-plan areas as well as in the extensions, I realise that for it to work well, I'll need to take into account the fact that the various spaces will have different requirements – and better understand how to zone an open-plan space.

'When it comes to UFH, power is everything,' explains Gordon Chalk. 'In a very big open-plan area, we would usually suggest setting up more than one heating zone. One zone could be the kitchen, another could be the dining room, and the third could be the living room.

'Each zone would have its own temperature,' continues Gordon. 'This lets the temperature be fine-tuned based on activity and usage, so no one place gets too hot.'

If you live in an older property, the start of the colder seasons need not mean gritting your teeth providing you understand how to keep your house warm in winter.

It suddenly feels a lot cooler, which means for many of us, it’s time to reach for a trusty hot water bottle to keep toasty through winter. But if, like me, you’ve had your hot water bottle for many years, then you need to carry out this vital check before you fill it up.

Honestly, I couldn’t quite believe it when I first heard hot water bottles have an expiration date - I kind of thought they lasted forever! But experts have revealed they do, and ensuring yours isn’t ‘past it’ ensures that it is safe for you to use.

While it’s a no-brainer that you need to check the safety of your best electric heater or the best oil-filled radiator, here’s how you can also check your hot water bottle to ensure it is still safe to use.

How to check if your hot water bottle has expired

‘Hot water bottles need to be replaced more often than you expect – typically every 2 to 3 years. After they’ve expired, the rubber or PVC can begin degrading, cracking or leaking and put users at significant risk of burns,’ explains Gareth Lloyd Jones, sustainability expert and Managing Director at HIPPO.

‘Hot water bottles are always marked with their manufacturing date, displayed as a daisy wheel symbol, typically on the neck. This is how you can tell when they have expired. The central number references the year of manufacture, the 12 segments represent the months of the year, and the dots within them tell you which week of the month it was made.’

So, any hot water bottles made today (17 November 2025) will have ‘25’ in the centre and 11 of 12 segments will be filled with three dots to show it was made on the third week of the 11th month.

If you find your hot water bottle is more than two to three years old, then I’m afraid it is time to replace it. This is because the material can weaken over time, potentially leading to leaks and bursts, which could further injure you or a loved one. And honestly, a burn isn’t worth the risk, seeing as you can replace a hot water bottle quite cheaply - I’ve got my eye on this gorgeous £10 Pink Hot Water Bottle from Dunelm.

If your hot water bottle is expired, you should check via your local council’s website to see if it is recyclable. If not, dispose of it in your household waste.

What to use instead

I’m not saying don’t use hot water bottles. I still don’t think I could live without mine - it’s such an easy and affordable way to keep warm. But it is also worth considering other heating options that come with a longer shelf life.

‘To cut down on waste, there are many hot water bottle alternatives that last longer than 3 years. Microwavable heat pads contain natural ingredients such as wheat, which can be easily heated up in the microwave,’ suggests Garath.

And if you need any help deciding, I’ve rounded up some long-lasting alternatives.

Well, you learn something new everyday! Please bear with me while I check my hot water bottle’s expiry date…

If, like me, the approaching winter season makes you grimace at the thought of high heating bills, then making your home more energy efficient can help.

Switching to a heat pump can be a key factor in making your home more eco-friendly, while lowering your bills at the same time. And now you can buy one through IKEA. Yep, you read that right. IKEA has partnered with a fellow Swedish company, heat pump provider Aira, to provide this technology to its customers.

But buying a heat pump is a very different experience from buying a Billy bookcase, so this is everything you need to know about how the process works.

What kind of heat pump is IKEA selling?

The IKEA x Aira partnership is offering air-to-water heat pumps to it's customers. Air-source heat pumps take the heat from the ambient air around the pump and uses it to provide heating and hot water in the home.

They're relatively easy to install, low maintenance and, when you compare a heat pump with a gas boiler, are more energy efficient. Depending on your pump, it can be controlled using a simple remote control or an app on your phone.

Previously only available in other parts of Europe, the IKEA X Aira heat pumps are now available to those who live in the UK.

An IKEA spokesperson told me: 'IKEA’s collaboration with Aira aims to simplify how customers access renewable energy options. Finding the right heat pump can be complex, so we wanted to make it easier for customers to switch to renewable energy in their homes.

'We carefully selected a heat pump provider that aligns with IKEA values, ensuring customers not only trust the provider but also enjoy a seamless, all-in-one service that covers everything needed for a smooth transition to energy-efficient solutions.

'The service includes expert advice, professional installation, and extended guarantees, offering our customers peace of mind.'

How do you buy a heat pump from IKEA?

Buying a heat pump can be a complex process, as the right choice depends on the type of home you have, how many people are in your household and whereabouts you live. And so it's important to get expert input to make the right decision.

To buy a heat pump from IKEA, you will need to follow 3 simple steps:

1. Fill out your details on an online form. You'll then be contacted by one of Aira's Clean Energy Consultants who will ask a few questions about your home and arrange your free, no-obligation home energy assessment.
2. An Aira expert will visit your home to assess it's needs and heat pump suitability, and provide you with a quote. The quote will include both purchasing the heat pump and the installation. You'll also be able to double check whether you need planning permission for a heat pump or not.
3. Your heat pump will then be installed (and they'll even remove your old boiler). You can also ask for tips on how to hide your heat pump in a way that is safe and doesn't impact the unit's functionality.

Better still, switch to an Aira heat pump through IKEA and you'll receive a £250 IKEA voucher that you can spend instore and online. (You'll need to be an IKEA Family member to redeem your voucher, but it's free to sign up if you aren't already registered).

Can you buy an IKEA heat pump in store?

No IKEA heat pumps won't be available to purchase in store. Instead you'll need to go through the IKEA website, submit your details and get a bespoke quote from one of Aira's experts.

This is down to everyone's home being different, so there's not necessarily a one-size-fits-all heat pump.

How much does an IKEA heat pump cost?

The cost of a heat pump will depend on the specification of heat pump you need, and this is no different with IKEA heat pumps. The price will be determined following your home assessment.

There is also a possibility you will be eligible for the Boiler Upgrade Scheme if you live in England or Wales, which will provide a grant of up to £7,500 towards the cost of your air-source heat pump. There is a similar scheme available for those who live in Scotland. However, there are rumours that these heat pump subsidies may be scrapped for many in the Autumn Budget, but that has not yet been confirmed.

When having your home assessment, it's the ideal opportunity to find out more about using a heat pump, especially if the technology is new to you. Make sure you have a list of questions to hand, like what maintenance does a heat pump need, and can you leave a heat pump on at night.

Cold temperatures and wet weather can wreak havoc with our homes. Beyond surging energy bills, it can mean more often dealing with condensation, ideally before it can lead to damp and mould.

Knowing how to keep your home warm in winter is more than just ensuring a comfortable environment, it can also be key to avoiding any health-harming issues caused by excess moisture levels. If, like me, you're concerned about risk this may pose in your home, the good news is that there is a heating trick you can use to ward it off and prevent it from forming in the first place. And it's definitely something I'm trying this winter.

Better still, if you have existing damp (which fortunately I don't) this hack may also help halt its progress, giving you time to resolve the cause and limit the damage.

The heating trick I'm using to prevent damp and mould forming

Experts are agreed that a key way to prevent damp and mould forming in your home is try and maintain a consistent temperature above 18°C, so I'm definitely making sure I follow that logic now that the weather is getting wetter and colder.

'When it comes to preventing damp and mould, maintaining a consistent temperature of around 18–21°C throughout your home is key, as this helps fight off condensation, which is one of the main causes of damp and mould growth,' says British Gas engineer Peter Knowles. 'This is especially important in rooms that contain more moisture like the bathroom and the kitchen, although it’s a good idea to ensure that all rooms receive at least some heat on a regular basis.'

'The biggest culprits for mould growth are cold spots, such as external walls and windows, where condensation is most likely to form,' adds Sam Carter, radiator expert at Appliances Direct. 'In a well-insulated home, the internal walls stay closer to the air temperature, making it much harder for mould to take hold.

'If your home regularly drops below 16°C, you’re creating the perfect conditions for mould and dangerous black mould to grow.'

Fortunately, achieving this doesn't mean having your heating on all the time, which I'm definitely keen to avoid as part of my mission to lower my energy bills. Instead, I'll be using my heating at tactical times throughout the day — for example, first thing in the morning, for an hour in the early to mid afternoon and a couple of hours in the evening. So far this has worked for me.

If you notice your home is struggling to retain the heat you are generating, then it's worth getting some professional advice, as it may be that you need to remove old insulation and replace it with something new. But make sure you don't put insulation in the spots that could actually cause damp and mould.

It's also worth looking for draughty spots around windows, doors and sockets and sealing them up, using something like this draught-excluding tape, which costs less than £5 from Amazon.

I've also found radiator reflectors to be really effective at making my home feel warmer (meaning I can set my thermostat lower and save energy).

Can you use your heating to get rid of existing damp?

I'm lucky that I've not seen any existing signs of damp, but due to some dodgy DIY by the previous owners, it is something I have had to tackle before. If your home is already showing signs of rising or penetrative damp, then there is no heating hack that will solve the problem. However, it can prevent it from getting worse, which can buy you a little more time to get the issue resolved.

'While keeping your home at a steady temperature won’t remove existing damp, it can help stop it from getting worse,' says Peter Knowles. 'Combining consistent heating with good ventilation, such as opening windows briefly each day or using extractor fans, will let moist air escape and reduce the risk of further mould growth.'

What other tricks can help keep damp at bay?

I've always found that the best results come from mixing multiple methods, at least that's definitely been the case with reducing my energy bills. So it makes sense too that while ensuring your home remains a relatively consistent temperature is key to staving off damp, combining it with other methods is a sure fire way to keep your home comfortable and healthy all winter.

So what else can you try?

Keep your home well ventilated

Ensuring good ventilation is vital for a healthy home, but this doesn't mean you have to leave your windows open all year round. Instead, you need to be burping your home.

'Ventilation, ventilation, ventilation,' says property expert and founder of Move iQ Phil Spencer. 'No, that’s not the title of my new show - even if it does have a ring to it. It is however, the best way to prevent the chief contributing factor to mould - moisture in the house.

'In summer, we tend to have the windows open a lot, and this creates plenty of cross-draught ventilation which naturally carries moisture outside. As the nights draw in at this time of year, we’re more likely to have the windows closed, and the lower temperatures can cause humid air to form condensation on windows and other cold surfaces.

'Even if it’s chilly outside, try to open your windows at least once a day to encourage the air to circulate - especially in bathrooms and kitchens.'

Use your extractor fans wisely

Make sure you use your extractor fan if you are doing anything that will create a lot of steam, like showering or cooking. This will pull the moist air out before it has the chance to cause damp.

It's also a good idea to keep doors closed to prevent the steam from finding its way to other areas of your home. After all there are common household items that are silent absorbers of moisture.

Wipe condensation away quickly

'As winter approaches, colder air temperatures can cause moisture in the air to condense - forming droplets or pools of water on windows, window frames and other hard surfaces,' explains Phil. 'If you spot condensation, wipe it up rather than letting it gather.'

Limit the moisture you add to the air

This might seem obvious, but if you want to prevent moisture build up in your home, it's best to avoid adding to the moisture levels.

Keeping lids on pans while cooking can help, and if you can, avoid drying clothes on radiators. Choosing one of the best heated clothes airers with a cover can be a good shout in winter, when you are left with no option but to dry clothes inside.

Another option is to invest in one of the best dehumidifiers to help you get rid of excess moisture before it can cause damage to your home.

FAQs

Can your home being too cold cause damp?

Yes, your home being too cold can definitely lead to issues with damp and mould, as James Kane from EnviroVent, explains: 'Every 1-degree change in temperature can impact moisture levels in your home. If the heating in your home is reduced in temperature by just 2 degrees, humidity levels will increase by 10%.'

Keeping track of your home's moisture levels can help you tackle the issues before any permanent damage is done.

If it feels like your home struggles to stay warm, try these home upgrades to ward off the winter chill.

Burning the wrong type of wood in your wood-burning stove could land you with a £1,000 fine this winter, experts have warned.

If you have a wood-burning stove, then you’ll probably already be aware of the environmental and health concerns which led to tighter regulations coming into effect following the Environment Act of 2021. But if you weren’t, don’t worry, as this is a helpful reminder of the wood that is banned and the wood that is safe to use.

These wood-burning stove regulations can come with a hefty fine if you breach them. This is everything you need to know, plus a handy list of all the wood types you can’t use.

Why are some wood types banned?

‘Some types of wood are banned from being burned in log burners because they produce high levels of smoke and harmful pollutants. Wet or unseasoned wood, as well as treated or painted timber, burns inefficiently and releases fine particles and toxic chemicals into the air,’ explains Emily Green, building expert at Howarth Timber.

‘The rules fall under the Clean Air Act 1993 and the Air Quality Regulations 2020. In these areas, burning unauthorised fuel or using a non-approved stove can result in a fine of up to £1,000, and local councils are responsible for enforcement. To avoid fines, only burn wood that is properly dried and certified as ‘Ready to Burn’, or use previously wet or unseasoned wood that has been air-dried for at least a year and has a moisture content below 20%.’

Here’s where it can get a little confusing. These regulations apply in ‘smoke controlled areas’. Those in smoke-controlled areas can only use Defra (Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs) approved fuel. Most towns and cities in the UK will fall within a smoke controlled area; however, if you are unsure, you can check via Defra’s Air Information Resource.

Approved fuel will have a ‘Ready to Burn’ certification on its packaging. If you don’t live in a smoke controlled area, it is still highly discouraged to use wet or banned wood, due to the risk of pollution, so you should always look for ‘Ready to Burn’ certified wood. These regulations also apply to burning wood outside, so you must avoid using banned wood types.

‘As temperatures drop, we want to remind households with a log burner that not all wood is safe to burn. Regulations are in place for a reason. By choosing the right fuel, you can enjoy the warmth of a fire safely while protecting your health and the environment,’ said a spokesperson for Arbtech.

What wood is banned?

Experts at Arbtech have compiled a list of woods that are banned in smoke controlled areas.

Banned wood:

• Wet or green wood -Energy is used to boil off the high water content of these woods rather than producing heat. This creates excessive smoke, releases harmful pollutants, and can be damaging to your stove and chimney.
• Painted, treated or varnished wood - Toxic and corrosive chemicals are released, which can be extremely hazardous to health when breathed in. As well as causing damage to your stove and chimney, you could also face fines for polluting.
• MDF, chipboard or plywood - These are engineered woods that contain adhesives, resins, and chemicals, which make them extremely unsafe to burn.
• Driftwood - The presence of salt and minerals releases toxic chlorine gas when driftwood is burned and can damage metal stoves and chimneys, as well as cause health and environmental concerns.

Wood you can use:

• Kiln dried or seasoned hardwood -The best types include birch, ash, apple wood, oak and beech. Low moisture content makes these woods burn hotter, more efficiently, and for longer, while producing less smoke and creosote.
• “Ready to Burn” logs - A "Ready to Burn" certification means firewood and manufactured solid fuels are guaranteed to have a moisture content of 20% or less, making them ready for immediate use.
• Natural softwoods - Softwood makes for excellent kindling and is an ideal choice for starting a fire easily and quickly. Some of the best types include poplar, cedar and pine.
• Untreated, dry branches - As long as they are properly seasoned (dried and below 20% moisture) and free of any chemicals or mould, untreated, dry branches are safe to use on a log burner.

If you have a wood-burning stove, it’s important to be environmentally responsible with the type of wood you burn. And one way to do this is by staying clued up on what wood is safe to use.

I get whiplash trying to keep up with Shark. It seems they release new products every week, and the newest addition to the roster is the Shark TurboBlade Cool + Heat TH200UK - a 2-in-1 fan and heater that promises year-round comfort wrapped into one handy appliance.

To test those claims, I've been using the TurboBlade Cool + Heat in my home for almost two weeks. Do I think it has what it takes to compete with the best electric heaters and the best fans? Well, it's a little complicated...

In a nutshell

The Shark TurboBlade Cool + Heat TH200UK is an upgraded version of the sellout Shark TurboBlade Multi-Directional Cooling Fan, which I gave a very impressive 4.5-star review just a few months ago - mainly because it prevented a summer 'sleep divorce' between my husband and me.

And while I will happily give this new model a 5-star rating for its cooling fan performance, I sadly can’t give the heating element more than 3 stars. Hence, meeting in the middle for a 4-star review.

After all, I can't deny that Shark has worked hard to iron out the niggles I had with the original TurboBlade fan, and I genuinely think that the brand has designed one of the best and most innovative fans that money can buy. The cooling effect is powerful, the modes are handy, and the multi-directional blades are a revelation.

And while Shark has incorporated similar modes into the heating side of the appliance, I’ve ultimately been left a little disappointed by the Cool + Heat's lack of power. It’s a big product with a small, rather awkward heating element, and is better for personal heating when you’re sitting (or standing) right by it rather than whole-room heating.

I also think that Shark has missed a trick by not incorporating the heat into the blades (arguably the USP that made it so popular), but having two appliances in one is still pretty handy. So, if you just want a little something to take the chill off your home in the winter while offering impressive cooling power in the summer, it’ll suit you fine. If you want to rely on it over the colder months, just make sure that you keep it close.

Specifications

• Type: Fan heater
• Wattage: 2200W
• Weight: 9.2kg
• Dimensions: H: 116.68 x W: 34.97 x L: 29.9cm
• Temperature range: 16-32°C (for the heater)
• Noise levels: 30dB - 85 dB (tested by us)
• Oscillation: up to 180°
• Special features: Dust Defence Filter, magnetic remote control, ThermoIQ mode
• RRP: £349.99

Unboxing, setting up and first impressions

At 9kg, I figured the box of the Shark TurboBlade Cool + Heat would be pretty hefty - and I wasn’t wrong. I was able to carry it into my house by myself, but the box was large and heavy, so you might need a helping hand if you’re mobility-limited.

However, I was very happy to see that the packaging was as eco-friendly as you can get. And while the base plate, base, pole, blades, and remote control were all packaged separately within the box, they were either encased in a recyclable cardboard shell or in a paper-like material that could go straight into the recycling.

I was also happy to see that batteries were included with the remote control, so I didn’t have to go scrambling for some around the house.

One thing I will say is that, unlike many electric heaters, this one wasn’t plug-and-play. It took a fair amount of assembly, but Shark made it as painless as possible. Not only were there assembly instructions on the ‘Quick Start’ guide printed on the box, but there were also handy instruction stickers stuck to the fan heater itself (these are the yellow ones).

In most cases, you simply need to match red triangles up with another red triangle, and it’s fairly easy to do, but you do need to do everything perfectly to ensure you get that satisfying ‘click’ that proves you’ve done it all correctly.

Since the process of assembling the Shark TurboBlade Cool + Heat is essentially the same as the TurboBlade Multi-Directional Cooling Fan, I also remembered how to put it together. So, it took me about 5 minutes overall. But if you’re new to the TurboBlade world, I’d probably set aside 10 minutes to ensure you do it right.

With everything assembled, I took a step back to assess the Shark TurboBlade Cool + Heat's design, and I was once again struck by its size. In fact, from an electric heater point of view, I was conscious of how big the entire appliance was - and how small the heating element seemed to be.

In my opinion, the USP of this TurboBlade design is its blades. So, it was a little disappointing to find out that the heat would be coming from a small and ugly heating element in the centre of the appliance rather than out through the blades. In fact, I think people would line up to buy a heater with multi-directional heating.

Despite its size, the 2-in-1 appliance has a sleek and stylish design, and the black colourway with copper accents makes it look as expensive as its price tag. I also like how the LCD screen blends into the base. But you can also buy it in a white colourway if that's more your style.

Ease of use

The Shark TurboBlade Cool + Heat can either be controlled by the touchscreen panel or the remote, which can be stored on top of the fan and heater when not in use. You use this remote to switch between modes, change your temperature settings, adjust the oscillation, and even set a timer.

And when you press anything on the remote, your choices will come up on the LCD screen, so there’s no chance of getting confused. For the most part, it’s relatively easy to use - and a huge step up from the fan-only TurboBlade model, which had confusing white dots as its control panel.

However, it’s worth noting that you still need to get hands-on with the appliance - especially during the milder months of the year - if you plan to use the heater in the morning and switch to the fan during sunnier afternoons. That’s because you have to physically change the heat/fan dial on the top switch between the heater and the cooling fan.

In heat mode, you can then adjust the vent slider to adjust where you want the heat directed. In the cooling fan mode, you can adjust the blades in the same way.

Disappointingly, though, there’s no smart functionality with the Shark TurboBlade Cool + Heat. And in a world where even the cheapest heater and fan combos - like the £99.99 Dreo Smart Whole Room Heater 714S - can be controlled by an app, this seems like an oversight on Shark’s part. Especially as this Shark model comes in at a Dyson price point, and Dyson heaters have offered smart app connectivity for many years.

Performance

I’m not going to talk too much about the cooling fan aspect of the Shark TurboBlade Cool + Heat TH200UK, because it’s impressively good. I gave the original TurboBlade fan 4.5 stars out of 5, and I have no qualms about giving this upgraded model that extra half a star. The 10 fan speeds are impressive and extremely powerful, and the multi-directional blades coupled with the three modes really do make for a customisable appliance. All in all, I can’t fault it and its range.

As a heater, though, the Shark TurboBlade Cool + Heat TH200UK feels lacking. Despite offering 2200W of power, the heating element itself is very small and looks as though Shark has just plonked it in the middle of its bestselling fan to quickly create an extra product.

And as the USP of the TurboBlade has always been, well, the blades, creating a heater that doesn’t let heat escape from the blades seems like an oversight on their part. However, I will say that the three heat modes are a nice touch.

ThermoIQ, the mode I use most often, lets you set a desired temperature (between 16-32°C), and the heater automatically turns on and off to maintain it. Comfort mode offers long, sustained heating power, while Focus mode is essentially a ‘boost’ mode for more powerful bursts of heat.

For the most part, though, I struggled to feel the effects of the Shark TurboBlade Cool + Heat unless I was standing directly in front of it - and I have a pretty small, compact house where most of my rooms measure at just over 3mx3m. So, to test it out properly, I tested it in two very different rooms.

For starters, I tested it in my living room, which feels significantly smaller than it is due to the big furniture in it. This meant I had no option but to place the fan heater about 1.5m from where I was sitting on the sofa. In this position, I must admit that the heater did work its magic.

Before turning it on, my room was around 15°C. So, I set the ThermoIQ temperature to 20°C, and it took about 20 minutes to reach that temperature. As I put it on oscillation mode, I could also feel the heat as it moved around, directing it towards where I was sitting.

When I repeated the process in my home office, though, the results were very different. Although this room is a carbon copy of my living room in terms of size, it feels significantly larger (and thus colder) because there’s no big furniture in it - simply a desk, a desk chair, and a small sofa bed.

Because of this, I was able to place the Shark TurboBlade Cool + Heat almost 3m away from the desk. And in this position, I couldn’t feel the heat at all. It also took significantly longer to heat the room from 16°C to 20°C, and it ran for almost 40 minutes before reaching that optimum temperature. The next time I used it in my office, I moved it closer (about 1.5m away), and I could feel the heat on me.

With this in mind, I don’t necessarily think the Shark TurboBlade Cool + Heat is bad in terms of its heating performance - it’s just very limited. As someone who lives in a small house, I do think it’ll come in handy for those with similarly sized houses to me. For those with larger, open-plan houses with big rooms, I think it’ll only be effective when you place it less than 3m away from you. So, it might not be worth it.

Of course, it is important to note that I live in an old Victorian house with pretty average insulation, so those with better-insulated homes will no doubt experience quicker heating times.

Noise levels

During testing, I used a decibel meter app to measure the noise level of the Shark TurboBlade Cool + Heat. It came in at between 30dB and 85 dB - and it was definitely noisiest in the cooling fan mode. When in heating mode, I measured a maximum noise level of 64dB.

This means that it is pretty loud in its most powerful heating and cooling modes, and my TV and music only just drowned it out when on max power. On the flip side, however, the TurboBlade Cool + Heat is exceptionally quiet on its lowest settings - whisper-quiet in cooling mode and barely noticeable in heating mode.

So, it really is an appliance of two noise halves, which means you do have the power to customise the noise levels if this is an issue for you.

Energy use

Offering a max power of 2200W, the Shark TurboBlade Cool + Heat is nowhere near how much it costs to run a regular fan. It’s significantly more powerful (and more expensive) due to the fact that it’s also a heater, and the cost to run this appliance is also at the top end of how much it costs to run an electric heater, too.

At the current rate of electricity, you should expect to pay just shy of 60p an hour to run when it’s running at full capacity. This isn’t extortionate, but it’s definitely not the cheapest, either.

Cleaning and maintenance

In terms of cleaning and maintenance, this Shark fan heater doesn’t require much. You just need to give the exterior of the appliance a dust every now and then, and vacuum the Dust Defence Filter every six months (or more if needed).

The Shark TurboBlade Cool + Heat also comes with a carry handle integrated into the base, which makes moving it from room to room a little easier. However, it’s still incredibly heavy at 9.2kg and is definitely a two-handed job. So, I would say that portability may be an issue for those who have limited mobility.

How does it compare to similar models?

I wouldn’t be doing my job properly if I didn’t compare the Shark TurboBlade Cool + Heat to the original Shark TurboBlade Fan. And while the fan capabilities are pretty much the same, the Cool + Heat obviously offers more by offering the heating ability and better controls. It is £100 more expensive for that added benefit, though.

Standing the two side by side, it’s also clear to see that there’s a slight size difference. The base and the blades of the Cool + Heat are bigger, and the Cool + Heat also doesn’t offer the chance to slide the top portion up in height. However, they both still allow vertical or horizontal use, which is a nice touch.

It’s also worth comparing it to something of a similar price point, with similar features. That would be the new Dyson Hot+Cool HF1 Heater and Cooling Fan, which our Senior Digital Editor, Jenny, reviewed recently. It’s slightly more expensive at £399.99, but some differences make this alternative a contender.

For starters, it’s significantly smaller, offering a sleek bladeless design while still offering a coverage of ​​up to 35m2. It’s also just 2.59kg (so, almost 7kg less than the Shark) and has smart app functionality. However, it doesn’t offer the multi-directional blade customisation that the Shark offers and doesn’t have the same level of oscillation, which could be a major dealbreaker for some.

How does it rate online?

The Shark TurboBlade Cool + Heat TH200UK is a brand new product to the market, so reviews are limited at this stage. At the time of writing, there are 24 reviews on the Shark website, 19 of which are 5-star reviews.

It’s worth noting that these reviews are from customers who were given the Shark TurboBlade Cool + Heat as a free gift as part of the testing process, though. Because of this, I will update this in a few weeks when customers who have paid and used their fan heater for a significant amount of time have submitted their own reviews.

Verdict: Should you buy the Shark TurboBlade Cool + Heat TH200UK?

Reviewing the Shark TurboBlade Cool + Heat TH200UK has been a tough one. On the one hand, I really wanted to love it - especially as I can already guess that this new model will go wild on social media. On the other hand, I just can’t deny that I was left wanting more.

I don’t have anything bad to say about the fan, and I genuinely applaud Shark for improving what was already a stellar product. But for £349.99, I wanted the heater to be way more powerful than it was.

Ultimately, I think that if you’re looking for an impressive fan that has the bonus of taking a slight chill off your home during the winter months, you’ll be satisfied enough. If you’re primarily looking for an effective and efficient electric heater (that just so happens to be a fan, too), then I do think you’ll be disappointed. It offers a small amount of heat with a big footprint, so you might be better off choosing an alternative.

The clocks have gone back, and the colder months have arrived, making now a key time to invest in heating appliances for a more comfortable home. And if you’re looking for a bargain, I have a great one as Lidl is selling an oil-filled radiator for under £30.

The best oil-filled radiators are a must-have for their impressive heat output, impeccable heat retention, and steady distribution of warmth, which helps keep you nice and toasty all winter, without having a damaging impact on your electricity bills.

Landing in the middle aisle tomorrow (30 October), the Lidl Tronic Oil-Filled Radiator is just £29.99, making it an excellent, affordable heating choice. Here’s how it shapes up.

While Lidl has a few more of the best electric heaters on sale, too, it is the oil-filled radiator that I am most excited about. Oil-filled radiators are one of the cheapest electric heaters to run, costing anything between 14p and 68p per hour to run.

While oil-filled radiators are largely considered to be energy efficient, other factors, such as poor insulation, should also be considered, as this can impact how well a room heats/ how long it takes to heat. Because of this, it can take longer to heat a room and cost more - something to be wary of if you plan to use an oil-filled radiator overnight.

The Lidl Tronic Oil-Filled Radiator has three heat settings and a large heating area with seven fins. This means it should be able to heat a large room efficiently, and with different settings to choose from, you can opt for a temperature that feels comfortable.

The Lidl oil-filled radiator is most similar to the VonHaus Oil Filled Radiator (£32.99 at Amazon), which is Ideal Home’s best-rated budget oil-filled radiator. It has six fins compared to Lidl’s seven, and only has one heat setting, but it is lightweight, portable and does the job well.

'Oil-filled radiators may not be as attractive as more modern electric heaters, but there’s a reason why they’re still so popular. They’re one of the cheapest heaters to run, and their heat retention is second to none. So, you can make the most of some free heat even when they’re turned off, which is always a bonus with energy bills on the up,’ says Lauren Bradbury, content editor at Ideal Home.

‘At £29.99, you can’t really get much cheaper than the Lidl oil-filled radiator, either. With 7 fins, it should effectively distribute heat across larger areas, and the three heat settings allow you to customise the heat output to suit your comfort. Plus, if you choose to use the lowest heat setting, it’ll cost you even less to run!’

At such a bargain price, I can’t imagine this heater will be on the shelves for long, so if you miss out on the chance to pick one up, or you don’t have a Lidl local to you, here are three more well-reviewed options.

Oil-filled radiators are cost-effective and a handy tool for keeping you warm all winter. Will you be investing in one?

With the colder weather creeping in, I'm all about finding ways to stay warm without my energy bills soaring. So, I put the Duux Edge 2000W Oil-Filled Radiator to the test to see how well it heats a room, and whether its energy efficiency and ease of use live up to the hype.

After testing, I think the Duux Edge is a top contender among the best oil-filled radiators, and a standout choice for anyone looking for the best electric heaters this winter. This is everything you need to know.

In a nutshell

I'll admit, I didn't expect an oil-filled radiator to look this good. The Duux Edge 2000W Oil-Filled Radiator feels like a modern upgrade to a traditional model, and it's been a game-changer for keeping my home warm and cosy, without being an eyesore tucked away in the corner.

The design immediately won me over – it's sleek and minimalist, and it has a solid, premium feel to it. It's also practical, with the hidden castor wheels making it really easy to move between rooms, which I found ideal for warming up different areas of the house.

Performance-wise, it may take longer to heat up a room than a convector or fan heater. But once it does, the warmth feels steady and consistent. Impressively, it also retains heat for around an after being switched off – a definite win for energy efficiency.

I did experience some teething issues with the app setup, and found it to be a bit glitchy occasionally, but the radiator's features more than make up for it. These include three heating modes, a 24-hour time and a schedule function for added convenience. It is on the pricey side, but it looks and feels premium, and the design truly sets it apart.

How I tested

Specifications

• Type: Oil-filled radiator
• Power: 2000W
• Dimensions: 46 x 32 x 71cm (incl. feet and wheels)
• Weight: 15.3 kg
• WiFi connectivity: Yes
• Timer: 1-24 hrs
• Safety switch: Yes
• Extra features: Child lock, tip-over switch, overheating protection
• Price: £249

Unboxing and setting up

The Duux Edge Oil Filled Radiator 2000W arrived in a large, rectangular, branded cardboard box. It was very heavy too, but with a weight of 15.3kg, I wasn't expecting it to be lightweight. The box had carry handles on either side, which made it easier to manoeuvre, but I wasn't able to lift it myself. So, just bear in mind, as you need a helping hand, too.

Inside the box, the radiator was well protected by moulded cardboard packaging, with the parts and accessories neatly slotted into the grooves. Beneath the top layer was another sheet of cardboard for extra protection, and the radiator itself was wrapped in 100% compostable packaging.

I usually expect to find some non-recyclable materials, so discovering that everything was fully recyclable was a pleasant surprise and created a really positive first impression.

I unwrapped everything and laid out all the contents, which included the radiator itself, an instruction manual, a remote control with a battery, two steel feet with wheels, plus screws, an Allen key and a mini spanner.

I must admit that when I first opened the box and realised there was some assembly required, I felt a bit daunted, as I'm not exactly known for my DIY skills. However, I needn't have worried, as putting it together was incredibly simple.

I turned the heater upside down (at which point I could hear the oil trickling inside) and lined up the steel legs to the screw points at either end of the base. Using the supplied Allen key to fix them in place, I had both sides attached in under two minutes.

I also had to pop the battery into the remote, which was a little more fiddly as it was small, but still straightforward enough. Once it was all set up, I plugged the oil-filled radiator into power, at which point it let out a small 'beep' and the LED panel displayed the power button. I used the remote to cycle through the different modes, including dialling the temperature up and down.

Although a remote is included, the oil-filled radiator can also be controlled through a smart device using the Duux app, so I was keen to get this set up. I scanned the QR code, downloaded the app and created an account using my email address. I then tapped the + symbol in the top-right corner of the app to add a device, then scrolled through the list to select the Duux Edge 2000W Oil-Filled Radiator.

I made sure the radiator was in pairing mode by pressing and holding the WiFi button on the side panel for about five seconds until it started flashing continuously. The app prompted me to enter my WiFi password and tap Connect. After roughly 30 seconds, this connection error message appeared: 'something went wrong while connecting, please try again'. Below the message was a troubleshooting guide suggesting I check whether the device's indicator light is still blinking and that the Wi-Fi password I entered was correct.

After a couple more attempts and some digging on the Duux website, I discovered that my smartphone must be set to the 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi band, not the 5 GHz band, for the heater to connect. I also found that other users had experienced this issue with the Duux app.

So, I disabled the 5Ghz band in my router settings, which was a bit of a faff. But once I'd done this and repeated the setup steps, the device successfully connected, and I was ready to go.

Design

Although I own a portable electric heater, I've never found it particularly attractive, as it's always been about practicality above all else. So, when I first opened the Duux Edge 2000W Oil-Filled Radiator, I was instantly impressed by its sleek, minimalist design, which will easily blend into any modern space.

Unlike many traditional oil-filled radiators, it doesn't have multiple metal fins; instead, it features a flat, enclosed panel design. Besides being very nice to look at, it's also more practical – there are no sharp edges or hot fins to worry about, which makes life so much easier for me with young children. It's compact too, which works well in my home where space is limited.

The LED display panel sits discreetly on the side of the radiator, plus the remote control makes it really easy to navigate the settings. It also has a night mode that dims the display and mutes the sound for undisturbed sleep. While it's not the lightest radiator, the combination of wheels and handles makes it manageable to move from room to room. Although admittedly, lifting it upstairs does require a bit more muscle!

My only other niggle is the cable length – at 1.6m it's not particularly short compared to other oil-filled radiators, but I do think it might restrict the positioning in some large rooms. Still, that's a minor inconvenience in an otherwise very well-designed heater.

Ease of use

The Duux Edge 2000W Oil-Filled Radiator is incredibly simple to use once it's set up, offering a good mix of smart features and manual controls. The remote control and LED display panel make it easy to adjust the temperature, switch between the heating modes, and set timers.

As mentioned, I found the app setup a bit tricky, and it glitched when my internet cut out - logging me out and causing the device to disappear completely from the app. I did have a minor panic that the data was lost; however, it was soon restored without needing to re-pair. Still, it made me question the software's reliability.

That said, the app itself is really straightforward to use once connected. You can turn the radiator on or off with the tap of the power button, and select one of the three heating modes directly from the home screen. And you don't need to rely on the app day to day; the physical controls are intuitive, and the night mode, which dims the display and mutes sounds, is a useful feature for undisturbed sleep.

It also has a child lock feature, accessible via the buttons on the LED display, the remote, or the app. With a very curious toddler in the house, I found this feature reassuring and made a point to switch it on whenever the kids were nearby.

The Duux app also provides more detailed insights and lets you create heating schedules – ideal if you want to control the radiator remotely or preheat a room before you get home (or first thing in the morning). This was really easy to do, and I tended to set the timer to come on at 6 am for one hour on Low mode, and again in the evening when the temperature dropped.

Performance

I tested the Duux Edge 2000W Oil-Filled Radiator at the start of autumn, when the temperature had started to drop, but it wasn't quite cold enough to turn the central heating on. Working from home (and as someone who easily feels the cold!) provided the perfect testing ground.

It's designed for rooms up to 30m², so I decided to test it in my kitchen and open-plan conservatory first, as this tends to be the coldest part of the house (and it's also where I usually work). After switching on the power button, I could feel the heat almost instantly radiating from the top vent, and within a couple of minutes, it was too hot to touch.

I set the temperature to increase by two degrees, and according to the insights graph on the app, it took just over an hour to rise from 15°C to just over 20°C, with the temperature set to 'High'.

Rather than cutting out immediately, the radiator cleverly waits until the temperature moves slightly above or below the set point before adjusting – a smart, energy-saving feature that keeps the room at a stable, comfortable temperature. I could see from the app's insight graph that it maintained a steady level of warmth throughout the week, with only minor fluctuations as it was turned on and off.

After switching off, the room temperature gradually dropped over about an hour, but it still felt noticeably warmer than in other areas of the house.

Another handy safety feature is its built-in overheat protection, so the radiator will turn off if it gets too hot or is knocked over (which, touch-wood, hasn't happened as yet, but it's entirely possible in my house).

After the initial test, I experimented by using it in other rooms of the house, including my bedroom, in the evening when the temperature was only 14°C. When using Boost mode, it only took around 15 minutes to reach 17°C.

Overall, it delivers consistent, efficient heating performance and does a great job of keeping the room warm – so much so that it's already earned a permanent spot in my home this winter.

Energy use

How much it costs to run an oil-filled radiator depends on a couple of things - its wattage and the current price of electricity. I'll admit, I was a little sceptical about the cost to run the Duux Edge 2000W, given its higher wattage.

And based on my electricity tariff of 22.71p per kWh, it cost me around 45p per hour to run at full power. That said, once the room reached a comfortable temperature – which took about an hour – I switched it to Low mode. This runs at roughly half power (around 1000W), and the cost drops to roughly 10-15p per hour.

One of the standout features for me is how well it retains heat. The radiator continues to give off warmth for an hour after being switched off, meaning I didn't need to turn the central heating on and I got to enjoy some free, extra warmth – a big win for energy efficiency.

Also, when I'm working from home, there is no real need to heat the entire house, so having the option to heat only the room I'm in is the perfect solution.

At the time of writing, it's too soon to say whether it's reduced my energy consumption, as I haven't had an electricity bill. However, I've not switched my central heating on since I've been testing the oil-filled radiator, so I'm confident I'll notice a difference.

Noise levels

One thing that really stood out during testing was how impressively quiet the Duux Edge 2000W Oil-Filled Radiator is. Unlike some oil-filled radiators that can make clicking or gurgling sounds as they heat up, this one operates almost silently, so it's perfect to use in bedrooms or home offices.

Even in Boost mode, the radiator runs at around 40 dB – about as quiet as gentle rain – so it doesn't disturb work or sleep (though you'd be unlikely to use this mode overnight). Overall, it earns top marks for noise levels.

How does it rate online?

Despite being on the market for over a year, I struggled to find many reviews of the Duux Edge 2000W Oil-Filled Radiator, despite extensive searching across multiple retailer and review sites. This could suggest it hasn't been purchased many times yet. While there weren't any reviews on the Duux UK website, I found two five star reviews on the EU version. Customers were impressed with how quickly it heated the room, with one user describing the design as 'beautiful'.

On Amazon, the product is listed as having 4.1 stars, but after reading the individual reviews, it became clear that they are all for the 1500W model, which you can buy on Amazon for a slightly cheaper price of £198.95.

That said, feedback from the 1500W, combined with the specifications and features for the 2000W model, suggests they share similar strengths – efficient heating, quiet operation and the convenience of the smart app control.

How does it compare to similar models?

The Duux Edge 2000W Oil-Filled Radiator builds on the brand's 1500W model, sharing the same slim, minimalist design but delivering a higher heat output. Although it comes with a steeper price tag, the 2000W version is generally more energy-efficient in larger spaces, so it does offer better value for money, since the 1500W may need to run for longer or at a higher setting to reach the same temperature.

If you're looking for a wall-mounted heater that heats up more quickly, the Duux Edge 2000 Smart Convector Heater might be a better fit – it uses convection technology rather than oil, so it delivers faster heat, but it doesn't retain it as long.

There are several comparable models worth considering, including the Pro Breeze 2500W Oil-Filled Radiator, which topped Ideal Home's pick of the best oil-filled radiators. The Dunelm 2000W Contemporary Round 9 Fin Oil Filled Radiator and the VonHaus 11 Fin 2500W Oil Filled Radiator are more budget-friendly alternatives, though neither offers the same sleek design or advanced smart functionality as the Duux Edge.

Verdict: Should you buy the Duux Edge 2000W Oil-Filled Radiator?

If you're looking to invest in an oil-filled radiator this winter - that's not only practical but stylish enough to proudly display - you'll be hard pressed to find a better option than the Duux Edge 2000W Oil-Filled Radiator.

Granted, it comes with a premium price tag compared to most oil-filled radiators, but it makes up for it in performance and design. While it heats up quickly, it's worth noting that the top vent gets very hot, so you'll need to be extra cautious if it's within reach of young children. That said, the child safety lock and overheat protection do provide peace of mind.

I think it's a solid choice when you don't want to blast the central heating, as it will warm a room quickly, and retain heat, keeping you warm without wasting energy.

As the temperature drops, thoughts again turn to ways to reduce our heating bills.

There are plenty of energy-saving tips available; however, I didn't realise that some of my interior design decisions were reducing the efficiency of my radiators and, as a result, raising my bills.

'Anything that blocks or traps the heat from a radiator will make your heating system work harder and less efficiently. In some cases, you could be using up to 20% more energy just for the room to reach the same temperature, which will have a huge impact on how much it costs to heat your home,' says Ryan Willdig, heating expert from Heatforce.

1. Radiator covers

While ideal for disguising less attractive radiators, radiator covers can significantly block heat, reducing the efficiency of your home heating system.

'Radiators heat a room through natural convection, so when you cover your radiator, you halt the flow of cold and warm air and slow the speed at which it heats a room. This means your heating needs to be on for longer, which increases heating bills,' explains John Klee, heating technology expert at BestHeating.

As well as reducing convection, radiator covers also limit the amount of infrared heat. 'Radiator cover can limit the amount of infrared heat by up to 30% – wooden/MDF designs are the worst for this,' adds Nick Duggan, MD at The Radiator Centre.

While uncovered radiators are the most efficient, some radiator covers are better than others. The best radiator covers will have plenty of ventilation holes and a grill front – like this HomCom design from Amazon – which reduces the amount of heat that the cover blocks.

‘If installing a radiator cover, ensure you have enough space between the radiator and the cover. The gap between the radiator and the cover should be at least 5 centimetres in width, 3 centimetres in height and 3 centimetres in depth to ensure it won’t affect the radiator’s BTU (British thermal unit) output,’ recommends Nancy Emery, heating expert at Drench.

2. Full length curtains

Full-length curtains – especially luxurious ones like Habitat's chenille blackout thermal curtains – are one of our favourite ways to create a cosy living room.

‘Using thick curtains and closing them at dusk is a simple way to retain warmth and block out cold air. Heavy fabrics like velvet or thermal-lined curtains help insulate windows, trapping the warmth inside and reducing heat loss,' explains Jessica Steele from BestHeating. Habitat's chenille blackout thermal curtains instantly channel the cosy feel.

However, if your windows sit above a radiator, full-length curtains – especially thick ones – are a big no-no.

'Closing the curtains over a radiator can cause a 15 to 30% reduction in heating efficiency as the warm air gets trapped between the curtain and the window, which raises the temperature of the window glass and increases the rate at which heat is lost to the outside,' says Nick Duggan, MD at The Radiator Centre. 'In poorly insulated homes with single-glazed windows, there can be up to a 50% reduction in heating efficiency.'

Instead, look for window blind ideas which can be layered with full-length curtains for the best of both worlds. These William Morris blinds from Dunelm can be upgraded with a free thermal lining to reduce heat loss through the window.

3. Placing furniture in front of a radiator

When designing your living room layout (or any other room in the home), factor in the placement of the radiator in your design.

'A sofa or cabinet blocking a radiator will trap warm air behind it, meaning you’ll feel cooler even though the heating is on,' says Nick Duggan, MD at The Radiator Centre. 'Try to leave at least 20–30 centimetres between your radiator and any large furniture. That small gap makes a big difference to how effectively heat can flow through the room.'

If you are struggling with small bedroom layouts and have to put a piece of furniture in front of the radiator, opt for lighter pieces or those ideally on raised legs. 'Big, bulky pieces made from dense materials such as solid wood sideboards and leather sofas really stifle heat circulation. Lightweight pieces or those raised on legs are much better options, allowing warmth to travel freely and keeping your home cosy and efficient.'

Keeping furniture at least 30cm away will help prevent damage, too. 'Over time, the heat from radiators can damage your home furnishings, it can warp wooden furniture, fade upholstery, and cause cracks in leather, therefore reducing their lifespan, explains John Klee, heating technology expert at BestHeating.

Change this one design element, and you'll likely see changes on your smart meter and in the temperature of your home.

FAQs

Do you lose much heat with radiator covers?

Yes, you can lose between 20 and 30% of your radiator's output with a radiator cover. This means that if you have a radiator, it can cost 20 to 30% more to heat the room to the desired temperature. Removing your radiator cover will result in real savings on your energy bills.

What can I use instead of a radiator cover?

Instead of a radiator cover, Nick Duggan, MD at The Radiator Centre, recommends installing a radiator shelf.

A minimalist shelf design like this from Amazon not only offers a spot for decor, but it also increases the radiator's efficiency. 'Installing a shelf just above your radiator helps direct warm air into the room rather than allowing it to rise and get trapped behind curtains or blinds. The shelf acts as a barrier, guiding the heat flow into the living space.

Another alternative to a shelf is a compact console table. These slot seamlessly over the radiator – like this from Amazon – and are ideal for rental properties or small hallways.

Now I know what an impact all these design choices were having on my energy bills I'm changing them asap to save money this winter.

Finding an electric heater that doesn’t take up a lot of floor space, while also offering enough power to actually keep me warm, has always been a nightmare in my small Victorian house. That’s why I was intrigued when I heard the claims that the Dreo Smart Whole Room Heater 714S could offer the best of both worlds.

After testing it out for three weeks, I can safely say that those claims aren’t a load of mumbo-jumbo. With this compact electric heater in tow, I’ve been able to keep my central heating off and enjoy the heat that comes with this small-but-mighty appliance - making it one of the best electric heaters I’ve tested so far.

In a nutshell

While it may be a lot smaller than many of the other electric heaters on the market, the Dreo Smart Whole Room Heater 714S seriously impressed me during testing. With six heat settings (including three dedicated to cooling, so it can also be used as one of the best fans during the summer months), it helped me stay warm during the chilly month of October when I didn’t want to waste energy by turning on my heating.

As to be expected with any fan heater, it’s not the quietest model out there, but it’s only a little distracting on its highest setting. On its lowest setting, it surprised me with its whisper-quiet noise level, and it was easily drowned out when I was watching TV or listening to music.

It's super portable and lightweight, and its ease of use is unmatched. The app is also particularly handy, allowing you to change everything from the oscillation to your heating schedule from your phone. The ‘Eco’ setting is also a nice touch for those who don’t want to risk wasting any precious energy.

It’s worth noting that the reach of this electric heater is between 15-25m², which is pretty generous and suitable for the standard UK living room (which is around 20m² on average). However, if you have a larger, more open-plan living space, this might not be the right option for you. Unless you buy two of them, of course.

Specifications

• Type: Fan heater
• Wattage: 2000W
• Dimensions: D28cm x W18cm x H31.5cm
• Room coverage: 15-25m²
• Temperature range: 5-35°C
• Noise levels: 36-57dB (tested by us)
• Oscillation: 60° Vertical, 90° Horizontal
• Special features: Adjustable Speed, Adjustable Temperature, Adjustable Tilt Head, Child Lock, Digital Display, Tip Over Protection
• RRP: £99.99

How I tested

Unboxing, setting up and first impressions

The Dreo Smart Whole Room Heater 714S came in a small, compact box that was extremely light, which I must admit took me by surprise. After all, I knew that it wasn’t going to be the largest electric heater out there, but I didn’t expect it to be quite so small. So, I was eager to get it open and start testing it out.

Thankfully, I didn’t have to put too much effort into this as it arrived fully assembled and ready to be plugged in. All I had to do was throw away a bit of plastic protecting the heater, pop the batteries into the remote, and it was ready to go.

I then took a look at the handy Quick Start guide, which gave me a speedy rundown of what the onboard controls do and offered a QR code to download the app. The whole process of downloading the app and connecting the heater took all of two minutes, as you just need to make sure that the heater is plugged in and you have your phone’s Bluetooth on.

And with everything set up and ready to go, I took a step back to assess the design of the Dreo Smart Whole Room Heater 714S. The first thing that struck me was how sleek it looked, and I loved the white colourway (although you can also buy it in a black colourway from Amazon for a slightly pricier cost of £109.99).

I also thought it seemed way more expensive than it is, not only in terms of its overall design but also in terms of its build quality. Normally, lightweight heaters often feel a bit cheap and flimsy, but the Dreo Smart Whole Room Heater 714S looks and feels high quality.

Ease of use

It really is impossible to slip up when it comes to this Dreo heater. That’s because there are actually three ways to control it - through the on-board touch panel controls, the remote control, or the app. I used all three options for the sake of testing, but found myself leaning towards the app most of the time.

In fact, I struggled a little with the touch panel controls because they felt a bit fiddly and sticky. Occasionally, I had to push the buttons a few times for it to register what I wanted, and it just wasn’t as responsive as I’d like. Since I have a habit of misplacing remote controls, it was generally much easier to grab my phone and control everything from there.

But whatever option you choose to control the Dreo Smart Whole Room Heater 714S, there’s definitely no shortage of customisation options. You can choose whether you want to use the ‘heating’ or ‘cooling’ setting, change the fan speed setting, adjust the oscillation (both vertical and horizontal), turn on the child lock, and even set a timer.

In the app, you also have a few other options, like setting up a schedule for the heater to turn on and off at certain times (i.e for an hour before you get home from work, so it takes off the winter chill), and you can set up Alexa or Google Assistant voice controls. Through the app, you can also see your usage in a handy bar chart to help you monitor your energy bills better.

Of course, you can also manually angle the heater with your hands if you want direct heat and it’s not quite hitting the spot. But, in my opinion, the app is where the Dreo heater really shines, and it’s the most user-friendly control option of the lot.

Performance

The beauty of the Dreo Smart Whole Room Heater 714S is that it’s actually multi-purpose. And while it’s primarily designed as a heater, half of the six heat settings are dedicated to the ‘cooling fan’ side of things, which means it can also be used as a fan in summer.

As I tested it in October, I primarily used the heating function, especially since I’ve yet to turn my central heating on. And like all fan heaters, it took just a few seconds after turning it on for me to start feeling the effects. The blast of heat (even on the lowest setting) was instantly noticeable, and I could feel it immediately start to heat the whole room.

On one occasion, I used the Dreo heater in my home office as I often struggle to stay warm while working from home. Thanks to the built-in thermostat within the heater, I could see that the temperature in my office had dropped to just 15°C - which is way too cold for my liking.

So, I turned the heater onto its highest setting and timed how long it took to get up to a more comfortable 21°C. Amazingly, it took just 12 minutes to reach my desired temperature. I repeated the process the next day using the lowest setting, and it still only took a very respectable 25 minutes.

All in all, I was very impressed with the performance of the Dreo Smart Whole Room Heater 714S. The heat was both powerful and customisable thanks to the different heat settings, and I definitely noticed a big temperature change when I used the oscillation functions. When using these modes, I felt like the whole room was heating up - rather than just the air heading towards me.

At just under 3kg, it was also incredibly easy to move around the house - especially as it also has a carry handle on the back - and I’d actually say that it’s one of the most portable electric heaters I’ve ever used. This allowed me to make use of the impressive performance throughout my entire house, from room to room.

Noise levels

After testing countless electric heaters over the years, I can confidently say that fan heaters are the loudest electric heaters out there. And while Dreo calls this one a ‘Forced Air’ heater, it still offers a fan-like design that normally creates a loud, whirring noise that’s hard to ignore. So, I was a little worried about the noise levels.

However, I shouldn’t have been. On its lowest setting, the Smart Whole Room Heater 714S came in at 36dB on my decibel meter app - which is very close to Dreo’s claims of 34dB, and about the same noise level as a soft whisper.

The highest heat setting was undoubtedly a bit louder, and I recorded 57dB on my decibel meter app. This is about the same level as light office noise or a normal conversation, but I did find that my TV or music almost drowned it out if I kept it on the highest setting. However, I did have to turn it off on occasion when I had a virtual meeting and found it a little distracting.

Compared to other fan heaters I’ve tested, though, this is hands-down one of the quietest and one that actually really impressed me on the noise front. But if you don’t want your electric heater to make any noise, it’s probably not the right option for you. It’ll be better to opt for a convector or panel heater instead.

Energy use

Fan heaters will never be the cheapest electric heaters to run, as the bladed design and moving parts generally require a lot of power. And in the case of the Dreo Smart Whole Room Heater 714S, the 2000W appliance costs around 54p per hour to run at the current energy price cap (which is 26.35 pence per kilowatt hour (kWh)).

Obviously, the cost to run an electric heater at 1000W will be a lot cheaper than the Dreo 714S’s 2000W power output, so it’s worth noting that there are more economical options out there if you want to cut down on your energy costs. This is especially true if you want to run it for long periods at a time. However, this model also comes with an ‘ECO’ mode, which should offer up to 40% energy saving if this is a concern for you.

So, while it’s a little pricey to use on the energy side of things, it doesn’t necessarily have to be if you use this ECO mode. It will automatically turn itself off when it reaches your desired temperature and will switch itself back on when that temperature drops.

Cleaning and maintenance

This Dreo heater doesn’t ask a lot in terms of cleaning and maintenance. The only task Dreo suggests is cleaning the outer surface of the heater and then removing any dust from the air inlets.

To do this, it’s important to unplug the heater first, so you don’t accidentally turn it on and burn yourself. When you’ve done that, you can use a soft, dry cloth to wipe the exterior surface.

Then, turn the heater away from you so you’re looking at the back of the heater (as pictured above), and use a cloth or cotton buds to get into the nooks and crannies of the air inlets.

Whatever you do, you should never use any water or cleaning agents to clean the Dreo Smart Whole Room Heater 714S, and you should never have to unscrew any of the components. Of course, you’ll also need to replace the batteries in the remote control eventually.

How does it rate online?

The Dreo Smart Whole Room Heater 714S is a relatively new product, having been launched only in late September 2025. As such, the only reviews on Amazon are from customers who were given a free sample in exchange for a review.

Of those 27 reviews, 22 people gave the heater a 5-star review, with three giving it a 4-star review and one opting for a 3-star review. In general, they were impressed with the small-but-mighty appliance and found it to be incredibly easy to use.

And while these reviews are positive, I will be updating this review in a few months' time, when paying customers have bought the heater with their own money. This, I believe, will paint a fairer picture of the online ratings.

Verdict: Should you buy the Dreo Smart Whole Room Heater 714S?

If you’re looking for a small-but-mighty electric heater that won’t break the bank in terms of upfront costs, I really don’t think you can go wrong with the Dreo Smart Whole Room Heater 714S. It’s compact enough to be used as a desktop heater if space is at a minimum in your house, but it’ll still heat rooms up to 25m² quickly and efficiently.

During testing, I didn’t have to turn my central heating on at all as I simply carried the heater with me from room to room. And while it’s not the most economical electric heater out there, it’s certainly not the worst - and the Eco mode is a nice touch for those who are conscious about rising energy bills.

The look, design and overall size of the electric heater will also suit every home as it’s not too conspicuous and is both sleek and stylish. Plus, it was a lot quieter than I was expecting. However, it might not be suitable if you have a larger, open-plan house.

Heating experts have revealed that installing a radiator shelf can have a positive impact on your energy bills and heat your home more efficiently, despite the common misconception that these shelves have the opposite effect.

There’s no getting away from the fact that bills are increasing, and we all want to save energy at home. There are plenty of ways to ensure your heating is working as efficiently as it can be, from scheduling a boiler service to knowing how to bleed a radiator. But one thing you may not know is that a radiator shelf can be helpful, too.

According to the pros, a radiator shelf can help redirect heat into a room, which is especially helpful if a radiator is positioned below a window. This is everything you need to know.

What are the benefits of installing a radiator shelf?

You'll probably be aware of the radiator shelf as an aesthetic addition or storage solution for your home. They’re often found within small hallways or living rooms as a clever way to make the most out of your space. But aesthetics aside, these shelves can have a positive effect on heating your home.

‘Building a shelf above and in line with your radiator is one way to increase warm air circulation throughout a space as it redirects the air forward into the room, rather than rising up to the ceiling and dispersing,’ explains Stephen Hankinson, Heating Expert at Electric Radiators Direct.

‘This can lead to quicker, more even heating, reducing the demand on your boiler or heating system. As a result, the room reaches a comfortable temperature faster, meaning your heating doesn’t have to work as hard or for as long, helping to lower your overall energy consumption and cut down on heating bills.’

Not only this, but a radiator shelf can also prevent heat damage to your walls and furniture, and expensive items such as your TV.

‘If you’ve got a flat-screen TV mounted above your radiator, a shelf isn’t just a ‘nice-to-have’, it’s essential. Rising heat can be damaging to the electrics and screen over time, potentially shortening the lifespan of your TV. A well-placed radiator shelf helps deflect that warmth away, offering crucial protection,’ says Nick Duggan, managing director of The Radiator Centre.

‘From a design perspective, a radiator shelf transforms a purely practical fixture into a considered part of the room. It creates a smart visual line, breaks up blank wall space and offers a handy surface for styling with home accessories.’

While radiator shelves serve both functional and aesthetic purposes, there is the belief that they can make a radiator work less efficiently. A shelf positioned too close to the radiator can indeed restrict the heat flow, and therefore efficiency, of a radiator. However, a well-positioned shelf will improve it.

‘There are no hard rules for this modification, however, as a general rule, leave at least 10 to 15cm between your radiator and the bottom-most shelf to allow for convection heat to distribute around the room. As well as this, ensure heat-resistant materials such as solid wood are used for your shelf to avoid heat damage or warping,’ says Stephen.

If you are still uh-hmming and ahhing about investing in a radiator shelf, here are three stylish options to help you get the ball rolling.

When positioned correctly, a radiator shelf can be both functional and stylish, improving the appearance of your room decor while also contributing to an efficient heating system.

I’ll be the first to admit that I’m very frugal when it comes to energy use in my home. Energy prices are no joke, after all. That’s why I try to avoid turning my heating on for as long as possible, opting for electric heaters to ‘heat the human, not the home’ instead. But there are many things I wish I knew before buying an electric heater.

Of course, you probably don’t need me to tell you that the best electric heaters are a must-have for the colder months of the year. But the reality is that there’s a lot of noise around electric heaters, from confusing information around the different types of electric heaters to the costs to buy and run them. As a result, I’ve bought a lot of heaters over the years, many of which weren’t quite right.

Through this trial and error, I’ve finally been able to find what works for me and my home, and now I couldn’t imagine winters without my electric heaters. However, I don’t want anyone else to waste as much money as I have over the years, which is why I’m sharing the 5 things I wish someone had told me before buying my first one.

1. Size does matter, but not in the way you’d think

To avoid making any electric heater buying mistakes, it’s always important to choose a heater that suits the size of your home. So, if you have a smaller and more compact space, it’s well worth choosing an electric heater that’s smaller in size. But the size of an electric heater doesn’t always correlate to the power of the appliance, so you don’t necessarily need to go bigger if you have a bigger house.

Instead, one thing I think everyone should know before buying an electric heater is that the wattage is the most important factor. This is its power output, which is ultimately how much heat it can produce. The higher the wattage, the more impressive the heat output, and electric heaters typically range from between 500-2500W.

And while bigger appliances often have the means to offer a higher wattage, that isn’t a hard and fast rule. This is good news for those with a smaller house, as this means that you don’t necessarily need to buy as many electric heaters to heat your home. Instead, you can opt for a smaller appliance with a higher output.

For example, I’m currently testing the Dreo Smart Whole Room Heater 714S, £99 at Amazon, and it really does offer the best of both worlds. It’s small enough to sit on my desk while I’m working or on the coffee table in my living room, but it’s also powerful enough to heat the entire room. This is all thanks to its 2000W of power.

2. Some are *very* loud

Although I know that you shouldn’t leave an electric heater on overnight, I still didn’t really consider the noise when buying my first one. And while I may not use them while I’m sleeping, I still use them when I’m working from home, having virtual work meetings, and trying to watch TV. And some electric heaters are very loud.

In my experience, the loudest electric heaters are undoubtedly fan heaters, as they use a fan to blow hot air around the room. And while I personally use the Dyson Purifier Hot+Cool HP1 Purifying Fan Heater the most in my house, I have to be careful about when I use it so it doesn’t distract me. That’s because this electric heater runs at around 63 Decibels, which is the same noise level as a normal conversation.

If background noise is an issue for you and you’d prefer something silent, it’s best to opt for a convector, ceramic or one of the best oil-filled radiators. These have fewer moving parts, so they tend to be a lot quieter. In fact, I also have the AENO Premium Eco Smart Panel Heater in my house. And while it takes a lot longer to heat up than a fan heater and is significantly bigger, it’s the option I choose when I have a meeting or want to pay closer attention to the music I’m listening to or the film I’m watching.

That’s not to say that all fan heaters are loud, though. The Dreo Space Heater is one of the quietest fan heaters we’ve tested, coming in at around 37.5dB or around 40dB when it’s in oscillation mode. This is comparable to a quiet library, so it is much easier to cope with. So, this is something to consider if noise is a make-or-break feature for you.

3. Running costs really do vary

One thing I didn’t realise until recently is that, when it comes to whole-home heating, central heating is always going to be cheaper than using an electric heater. But I know from my own experience of having spare rooms that I don’t use that there’s often no need to waste energy heating an entire house.

That’s where electric heaters reign supreme, as they allow you to heat individual people and rooms, ultimately making the process cheaper in the long run. However, the cost to run an electric heater still varies more than most people think, which is why everyone should know how much the electric heater they have their eye on costs if they want to save energy at home.

To work out how much it costs to run an electric heater, all you need to do is take the kW of the heater (this is the wattage divided by 1,000) and multiply it by the current price of electricity. For example, to calculate the cost to run a 1.5kW (1500W) heater in the UK and under the current October 2025 price cap, you’d multiply it by 26.35 pence per kWh.

This means that the average 1500W electric heater will cost you about 40p per hour to run. But even then, there are some factors that determine which is the cheapest electric heater to run, like the type of heater and where you place it. So, always take this number with a pinch of salt and buy a smart plug - like this Tapo P110 Smart Wi-Fi Plug (£9.99 at Argos) - if you want to get an accurate depiction of how much it’ll actually cost you.

4. It isn’t a miracle worker

As someone who has bought multiple electric heaters, I could rave about them until the cows come home. They’ve helped me heat my home without turning the heating on, and I genuinely couldn’t comfortably live in my home during the colder months without them. However, one thing I wish I knew before buying an electric heater is that they’re not miracle workers.

Ultimately, an electric heater will only ever be effective if you have the right home for one - i.e. one that is well-insulated and will retain the heat produced by the electric heater. If you have a draughty house with very poor insulation, you’re only going to get temporary satisfaction out of your electric heater, as the heat will simply leak out of your home.

Because of this, there’s very little point in buying an electric heater until you’ve addressed the problems with your home. It might be that simple DIY draught-proofing, like using this Weather Stripping Tape, £9.99 at Amazon, to block gaps in your doors and windows, will be enough. In more extreme cases, you may need to completely reassess your insulation.

Only when your home is in better shape can you really reap the rewards of an electric heater, so it’s important to keep your expectations in check if you have an older property. This is something I’ve had to address in my damp-prone Victorian house, and I’ve found that my electric heaters are way more effective since I addressed the draughts coming from my wonky walls, windows, and doors.

5. Smart features come in very handy

Although I’m a millennial who grew up with technology, I must admit that I don’t particularly like having a lot of smart tech in my life. I try to keep my phone as app-free as possible, I prefer old-school thermostats to smart ones, and I’ve yet to buy an Alexa or Google Assistant.

But one thing I wish I knew before buying more basic electric heaters in the past is that smart features can come in very handy when you want to keep a home warm in winter. In fact, the only apps I really have on my phone are the ones that control the electric heaters that I have in my house.

That’s because these smart features allow me to have better control over the heating of my home - and, ultimately, how much I’m spending on my energy bills. In fact, many electric heaters come with built-in thermostats, which means it’ll automatically switch off as soon as it reaches your desired temperature, so you’re not wasting any energy.

Being able to set schedules also allows me to turn my electric heaters on from my phone, without even needing to be in the house. This comes in handy when I leave my WFH setup to go into the office. I turn my heater on before I get home so I don’t have to return to a freezing cold house, and the same can be said when I take the dog for a walk. So, if you value convenience, I wouldn’t scoff at a slightly more expensive electric heater that comes with these extra smart features.

My top-rated electric heaters

So, there you have it! Those are the things I wish I knew before buying an electric heater, so hopefully you won't make the same mistakes I did.

Feeling the chill? Don’t worry, Aldi will soon be stocking its Specialbuys aisle with a whole host of winter warmers - including two electric heaters and heat-reflecting radiator foil, all promising to heat your home on a budget. Plus, prices start at just £9.99.

If you’ve yet to invest in one of the best electric heaters or you’re simply looking to add another to your collection so you can avoid turning on your central heating for as long as possible, you might already know that this price is an absolute steal. And if you want to ‘heat the human and not the home', these heating gadgets are a must-have.

However, as is (sadly) the case with Aldi, these Specialbuys won’t stick around. Once these heaters and the radiator foil are gone, they’re gone - and my insider information suggests that this won’t take long at all.

Launching in Aldi stores from 23rd October, with even more cold-busting products arriving on the 26th, one of my top picks is the £24.99 Oscillating Ceramic Tower Heater. It's ideal for whole-room heating, as its oscillating function spreads warmth throughout the entire space. Costing approximately 53p per hour to run, it’s also a little below the average cost to run an electric heater.

And while it might not be the cheapest electric heater to run, and it’s always going to be cheaper to use central heating than using an electric heater, the beauty of Aldi’s Oscillating Ceramic Tower Heater is that the initial upfront cost is way more affordable than alternatives on the market.

When you’re feeling the chill, you can also use the ceramic heater to follow Martin Lewis’ advice to ‘heat the human, not the home.’ This means you won’t waste energy heating the whole house, including rooms you’re not using.

But this tower heater isn’t the only winter-warming offering coming to Aldi’s middle aisle. If you have smaller rooms (or a smaller budget), a £14.99 Ceramic Personal Heater will also be on sale from the 23rd October. While not as powerful as the larger model, it’s ideal for those who just want to take the chill off their space, and costs just 32p per hour to run.

For those who don’t want to plug in any extra appliances, Aldi will also be stocking a £9.99 Radiator Reflector from SuperFOIL from Thursday. We’re huge fans of radiator reflectors at Ideal Home, and our Renovation Editor, Sarah, even slashed her energy bills by 20% by placing foil just like this one behind her radiators.

After all, it bounces (or ‘reflects’) the heat from your radiators back into the room, instead of allowing it to leak out of external walls or cracks. It’s also a doddle to use, and doesn’t require any fancy installation.

And while I’m a little sad that Aldi won’t be bringing back the oil-filled radiator it sold last year, I’m confident that these new winter warmers will help you maintain a cosy, cost-effective home. I imagine the heater will set out fast, though, so I’d get down to the middle aisle as soon as you can.

Remember, when it's gone... It's gone! So, get yourself down to Aldi for these cost-effective heating gadgets before everyone else does.

When a heatwave hits, I want a fan that makes a difference quickly, and in the winter, I need a heater that can warm me up fast. So when Dyson launched its new Hot+Cool HF1 model, promising rapid, even heating in winter and smooth, quiet cooling in summer, all in a single appliance, I got pretty excited and wanted to test it right away.

I tested it for a good few weeks to see if it really lives up to its £300 price tag compared to some of the cheaper best electric heaters and fans around, and whether it's worth the upgrade from Dyson's older Hot+Cool model. Spoiler alert: it is. It's compact, whisper-quiet and really efficient, but that doesn't go without a few niggles.

In a nutshell

Released as part of a number of new product launches, the Dyson Hot+Cool HF1 offers temperature control from 12°C to 32°C, a 70° oscillation range and can raise the room temperature by 1°C in as little as 100 seconds.

In addition to a ceramic heating element that delivers fast, even warmth in winter, while Dyson's signature Air Multiplier technology ensures a smooth, bladeless breeze which is ideal for the heatwaves we are experience more often in the summertime.

It's also up to 25% quieter than previous Hot+Cool models and can be operated via MyDyson app, remote control or voice command.

At £399, it's a premium pick, but I think its sleek design, safety features and impressive performance make it a clever year-round upgrade for my house. Plus, the fact that it's essentially two appliances in one means it saves on premium storage space, and reduces clutter!

Specifications

• Weight: 2.59kg
• Cord length: 1.8m
• Room coverage: 35m³
• Noise levels: 26dB-39.9dB (tested by us)
• Oscillation: Up to 70°
• Remote control: Yes
• Modes: Fan and heater
• RRP: £399.99

Unboxing, setting up and first impressions

Unboxing the Dyson Hot+Cool HF1 couldn't have been easier.

Packaging: The unit arrived well-protected but without the excessive layers of packaging that often come with new appliances – something I appreciate as someone who opens a lot of boxes. Everything inside was neat, minimal and secure which is good news for my recycling bin, with just the right amount of padding to keep the fan steady in transit and nothing took an age to dismantle. There were only a few plastic bags to contend with, but I'm not overly sure they were necessary.

Weight and set up: At 2.59kg, the HF1 is surprisingly lightweight, making it easy to lift out of the box and move into position. Setting it up was equally straightforward, as the main unit was already assembled. The only tricky thing was connecting the base to the unit, but I figured that out pretty quickly.

Looks: What struck me straight away was how compact and neat it looks. It's much smaller than my Dyson PC1 air purifier fan, yet still powerful. The white and silver colourway gives it a sleek, understated Dyson finish that will blend well in any home decor scheme. It's also perfectly sized for smaller homes or rooms where you don't want a bulky appliance dominating the space. It's not quite small enough to pop on a desk, but it's certainly discreet enough to sit quietly in the corner without drawing too much attention.

App connectivity: Adding it to the MyDyson app took next to no time, as all you do is scan the serial number on the bottom of the appliance and follow the instructions to pair it. Bar a few initial connection issues, which entailed me updating my app, the process was smooth and intuitive. I had it up and running in minutes.

Remote control: The magnetic remote control is a clever design touch too, snapping neatly onto the top of the unit so it's always within reach, which is a signature Dyson detail I've come to rely on. The first time I switched it on, I felt it's effects instantly in both cooling and heating mode, with the controls easy to figure out.

Ease of use

I found the Dyson Hot+Cool HF1 super simple to use, and there's very little you can get wrong, to be honest. On the unit itself, there's a temperature dial, a button for oscillation, and a heater button, so the basics are covered without feeling overwhelming. For finer control, the remote mirrors main of the same functions with clearly labelled buttons for power, temperature, switching it from fan to heater, fan speed, oscillation, lock and timer. All very intuitive and easy to get your head around.

The MyDyson app takes things up a notch, giving me far more flexibility. From the app, you can set precise temperatures, schedule start and stop times and monitor conditions remotely, which I found especially useful. In summer, this means I can set it going to cool the space before I need to use it (which is blissful in a heatwave) and I'd definitely use this feature in winter when I want to warm up my workspace before heading in. It's all laid out clearly, and I found it much easier to set timers here than on the unit itself, as the fan heater's small display can be a little fiddly when you're navigating the settings.

A nice design touch is that the HF1 also tilts manually without needing to press any buttons. You simply angle the fan head up or down to direct the airflow exactly where you want it. I found this especially handy when using it while working from home, as I could have it directed straight at me so I could feel the maximum benefits.

The timer function is another thoughtful feature. I used it while working, but I can see it being ideal for setting a cosy temperature in a guest room before bedtime or for automatically warming up a space before you wake up.

The app also includes a data and insights tab, which tracks indoor and outdoor air quality (based on your location) and current indoor temperature, which is a small but useful feature that helps you understand how your home environment is changing day to day.

Performance

With the UK's unpredictable weather, I don't always feel I can reply on a single appliance. But with this combined fan and heater, I do feel like it can deliver year-round comfort, whatever the weather. This is how the two modes compared:

Fan mode

When testing the fan element, I think it does a brilliant job of keeping air moving smoothly and quietly. The airflow feels constant and refreshing, not choppy or noisy like traditional fans. It's ideal for creating a comfortable background breeze rather than blasting you with cold air.

While the fan mode can feel refreshing, like all fans, it doesn't actually cool the air (like an air conditioner), but instead cools you by moving air across your skin. In a heatwave, it'd be a good idea to combine using this fan mode with tactical window opening for maximum fresh air ventilation.

Heat mode

In heating mode, it's just as effective. Dyson claims it can raise a room's temperature by one degree in as little as 100 seconds, and from my experience, that's pretty spot on. Within minutes, the chill in my single-glazed, spare room had gone, replaced by a steady, even warmth that didn't feel drying or stuffy. My husband even remarked on it.

I was also impressed by the built-in thermostat, which automatically maintains the temperature you've set, so it never overheats the room or wastes energy. It's quick to react too, switching off once the target temperature is reached and kicking back in when it drops again.

Noise levels

Noise-wise, the bladeless design is obviously the reason it's quieter than most electric heaters and fans. Instead of a harsh blast of air, you get a soft, even stream that's more like a gentle white noise, so it's easy to tune out. On lower settings, it's barely noticeable, especially in Sleep mode, which dims the display and drops the sound level to a soothing hum.

When the unit oscillates, it does create a very gentle mechanical sound, which can get a little distracting when you're sitting close by. I suspect that's partly because I've been using it right next to my desk, which is also a quiet environment, and from further away it's barely noticeable.

On the higher speeds, there's the usual rush of air you'd expect, but it's still far quieter and smoother than other fan heaters I've used.

Energy use

In terms of energy use, the HF1 has a maximum output of 2000W, so if you're paying the current UK average of 26.11p per kWh, that works out to roughly 52p per hour when it's running on full power.

In reality (and heat mode), though, thanks to its intelligent thermostat, it cycles on and off to maintain your chosen temperature. In my testing, it typically ran at full heat for a few minutes before dropping to a lower draw, meaning the real cost per hour is closer to 30-35p, depending on your room size and insulation.

I've also been impressed by the scope of the air flow, which should only help to cut down the cost of running it. Rather than blasting in one spot, it seems to circulate air evenly across the room, so you can create a comfortable environment in a smaller space quickly without constantly adjusting the settings.

Cleaning and maintenance

One of the things I've always appreciated about Dyson products is how easy they are to keep clean, and this model is no exception. Because of its bladeless design, there are no fiddly grills or fan blades to take apart, which makes maintenance refreshingly low-effort. I simply wipe the outer shell and loop with a soft, dry cloth every now and then to keep dust from building up; no tools or deep cleaning are required.

Unlike Dyson air purifiers, there are no filters to replace, so you don't have to worry about extra upkeep or hidden costs over time. The only thing I'd keep an eye on is the air inlet at the back, which can occasionally pick up lint or pet hair if it's running for long periods. A quick wipe down or a gentle vacuum with a brush attachment keeps it clear and working efficiently.

FAQs

Verdict: Should you buy the Dyson Purifier HP1 Hot+Cool Purifying Fan Heater?

If you want a premium single appliance that offers both effective heating and fan modes, then yes, the Dyson Hot+Cool HF1 is well worth the investment.

After testing it myself, I can see why it's quickly becoming one of the brand's standout launches. It's compact, perfectly designed and genuinely delivers on its promise of fast, even heating and smooth, quiet cooling. The MyDyson app makes it easy to control wherever you are, and the magnetic remote, intuitive interface and manual title make everyday use effortless.

At £399, it's definitely a premium buy, but you can see where the money goes. It's not just a heater or a fan, as it's more like an all-year-round machine that provides cooling and heating comfort and fits neatly into living spaces. It's also ideal for homes that are short on storage space, as you could find use for this appliance all year round, rather than needing to pack it away at the end of a season.

The lack of air purification might be a downside if you're after a full three-in-one device, but as a dedicated heater and cooling fan, it's great. It's quiet, efficient and stylish and it's already earned a permanent space by my desk. If you're looking for a low-maintenance, smart and energy-conscious way to stay cool in summer and warm in winter, this is a top buy.

However, if your budget won't stretch to a Dyson, the Russell Hobbs Bladeless Fan with Cool & Heat Function, offers similar functionality at a more affordable price point.