We've already experienced three heatwaves so far this year, and the summer isn't over yet. And with UK homes designed to retain heat rather than repel it, it's unsurprising that people are turning to permanent cooling installations to maintain comfort levels over summer.

Fitting air conditioning is becoming a much more popular solution for those wanting to create relief from the sky-high temperatures that we've seen over the last few summers. I myself have had it in my own home for more than a year, and count it as one of the best upgrades I've ever made.

But if you aren't in your forever home and you plan on selling up in the not-too-distant-future, is it still worth installing in order to boost your home's resale value? I asked the experts what they thought.

Can air conditioning add value to a home?

With high temperatures becoming more commonplace, air con units also capable of providing heating in winter, as well as units becoming more readily available and affordable, it's definitely becoming a sought-after feature.

'Air conditioning is fast becoming a must-have in the UK as our summers get hotter and hotter,' explains Karl McArdle, co-founder of The Property Buying Company. 'Not that long ago, having aircon would've been seen as a bit of a luxury, but now more buyers are starting to see it as a genuine game-changer in the comfort stakes, especially in new build homes, apartments and those south-facing properties that get scorching hot.

'While it's not going to have the same wow factor as a loft conversion or a swanky new kitchen, aircon can still help your home stand out from the crowd and give you a bit of an edge when it comes to sale price, especially in the higher end of the market where buyers are increasingly expecting the works.'

How much value could air conditioning add to a property?

On average, experts suggest that fitted air conditioning could add 1-3% to a property's value, as well as making it more attractive to buyers, which can lead to a quicker sale.

'As a guide, a decent energy-efficient system can add up to 3% to a property's value, and during a hot summer it can be the detail that makes a buyer choose your home over a similar one down the road - especially in warmer parts of the country like London and the South East,' says Cal Graham, property expert at We Buy Any Home.

Karl agrees, saying: 'For the right property, a high-quality system could add somewhere in the region of 1-3% to the value. On a home worth around £300,000, that's roughly £3,000 to £9,000. In many cases though, the real value isn't just the extra money, it's attracting more buyers, selling faster and giving sellers a stronger hand when it comes to negotiating offers.'

But depending on your installation, and where you live, the value added may not cover the cover the cost of the install, but it's not the end of the world as Cal explains: 'Buyers rarely pay a straight pound-for-pound return on the installation cost, so it's best thought of as an aid to a faster sale as much as a pure value-adding factor.'

How to maximise how much value air conditioning can add

If you're thinking of selling your home in the not too distant future, then it's worthwhile understanding how you can maximise the value that installing air conditioning may add.

'The key is to treat it like any other quality home improvement,' say Cal. 'Choose a modern, energy-efficient system, and ideally one that also heats as buyers increasingly care about running costs and EPC ratings.

'Use a reputable, certified installer and keep all the paperwork, warranties and servicing records to hand, because buyers and their surveyors will want to see them.

'Position units discreetly so they don't spoil the look of a room or exterior, and check whether you need planning permission or freeholder consent before you start.

Could fitting air conditioning ever devalue a property?

While fitting air conditioning can add value to your home, that's only if it's done well. If not, or without the correct permissions, then it could end up having the opposite effect.

'Air conditioning systems can devalue a property, and this is where people can get caught out,' explains Cal. 'Bulky external condenser units that look out of place or interior units that dominate a room can put off buyers and make a home feel less desirable.

'An old, noisy or poorly maintained unit can also be a red flag as a future repair bill rather than a benefit.'

You should also be mindful to seek permission from the local planning authority before going ahead with an installation, in case air conditioning isn't allowed.

'In listed buildings or conservation areas, an installation done without the right permissions can create a real headache when it comes to selling.'

With the UK experiencing it's third heatwave of the year before the middle of July, it's no wonder that households are desperate for ways to keep cool.

As a result of the high temperatures, there has been unprecedented demand for portable air conditioners and fans, selling them out left, right and centre. But it's not just portable appliances that are seeing record levels of demand. Fitted air conditioning has also see a huge boost, according to Angus Struthers, Managing Director at BOXT: 'From 1st of May to 30th June, BOXT saw AC sales rise by 249% YoY, with increases in all regions of the UK. This was true as far north as Scotland, which saw a 233% growth YoY, and down in Brighton on the south coast, there was a whopping 1,700% YoY increase in enquiries.'

The Guardian has also reported that the number of air conditioned homes has doubled to four million over the last three years.

And so for those who have invested in a fitted system, headlines about air conditioning being ripped from homes under energy efficiency rules will undoubtedly be worrisome. So is air conditioning really being banned? I asked the experts for the truth behind the rumour.

Is air conditioning going to be banned in the UK?

No air conditioning isn't going to be banned in the UK. In fact, in response to headlines to the contrary, the Ministry of Housing, Communities & Local Government has stated: 'There has been media coverage this week suggesting that air conditioning is banned in homes. This is incorrect.

'Air conditioning can be installed in both existing and new homes.

'In most cases, planning permission is not required to install it for a small home if it would not materially affect the appearance of the building from outside.

'However, there is no blanket rule. People should speak with their local council to check the rules, and councils should take a common-sense approach.'

Where do rumours of an air conditioning ban come from?

As reported by The Telegraph, some homeowners in London have been ordered by their local authority to remove the air conditioning from their homes, in favour of more passive cooling solutions like keeping windows and curtains closed at the hottest part of the day, and opening them when it's cooler to get some cross ventilation going.

In many cases, enforced removal like this will be down to the installations falling foul of planning and building regulation rules, which will not be the same for every area of the UK. Air conditioning rules may also be stricter in highly populated urban areas, like London, as Michael Whittall, Sustainability Manager at Fairview New Homes, explains: 'Air conditioning may make individual homes cooler, but we also have to recognise the wider impact it can have on our cities and communities. Air conditioning systems work by removing heat from inside buildings and releasing it outdoors. When this happens at scale, particularly in dense urban areas, it can contribute to the urban heat island effect - adding to higher outdoor temperatures and increasing heat stress in cities.'

There are also concerns about what a widespread uptake of air conditioning may mean for the National Grid, with researchers from Loughborough University telling the BBC that it won't be able to cope with the additional demand. According to Kian Milroy, Renewables Electrical Engineer at Heatable: 'There is a legitimate concern about millions of inefficient air conditioning units being switched on simultaneously during a heatwave. Modelling by researchers at Loughborough University found that, under its highest domestic uptake scenario, air conditioning could add around 7GW to Britain’s evening peak electricity demand by 2050.'

But Martyn Bridges, Director of External Affairs at Worcester Bosch, argues that this wouldn't be grounds for a ban: 'It is highly unlikely that grid capacity concerns will lead to a ban on domestic air conditioning. Much of the UK’s electricity grid is already being upgraded anyway to accommodate the wider electrification of transport with EVs and heating with heat pumps.

'Furthermore, a typical domestic air-to-air heat pump uses around 1.2 kW/hr of electricity—which is less than a standard washing machine or dishwasher. Given this relatively low consumption and the ongoing infrastructure upgrades, there simply isn't a strong case for a ban.'

Kian also disagrees that a ban is the answer, saying: 'A more credible future is tighter standards rather than a ban. This could include minimum energy-efficiency requirements, restrictions on the least efficient portable units, better installer regulation and incentives for modern systems that provide both heating and cooling.

'Smart tariffs and demand-response technology could also help spread electricity use more intelligently, encouraging households to pre-cool their homes when renewable electricity is abundant rather than adding demand during the evening peak.'

Do you need planning permission to install air conditioning?

Whether or not you need planning permission for fitted air conditioning will depend on where you live, the property you live in, and the type of air conditioning you plan on installing.

In many cases, installing an air-to-air heat pump (which is what fitted air con units are), can be done under Permitted Development as long as it can be used for both heating and cooling, and is fitted and used in a way that doesn't negatively impact your neighbours in terms of things like noise and proximity to their property. It's always best to double check with your local planning authority before you commit to save yourself any hassle. If you don't check and your installation falls foul of the rules, then you may face enforcement action to remove it at your own expense.

Rules will be different if you live in a conservation area, Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty or national park. In these areas, permitted development rights may be restricted or removed altogether, meaning you'll need to apply for planning permission. Similarly, if you live in a listed building, you will need Listed Building Consent to make changes.

Portable air conditioning units will be exempt from planning and building regulation rules, but if they are too noisy or cause issues for your neighbours, the council may intervene if they receive a complaint.

Should homeowners do anything differently?

The best thing you can do if you are planning on installing air conditioning at home, is to check with your local authority that it would be breaching any rules. That way you can rest assured that your investment won't be short lived.

Choosing a reputable installer is also important and they should also be well-versed in the installation requirements under the planning rules.

If you already have air conditioning installed and it turns out you should have sought planning permission, then you could try applying for retrospective planning permission, although there is no guarantee that this will be granted.

If it looks like a fitted system won't be feasible for your home, you could invest in a portable air conditioner when stock is replenished. Until that time, you could also try the tricks to supercharge your fan's cooling power, and opening all your windows when it's cooler outside to help freshen up and cool down your home.

With things once again hotting up in the UK, and temperatures on the rise in general, more and more people are starting to invest in air conditioning units for their homes, both portable and wall-mounted systems.

If you are considering fitting air con in a bid to keep your home cooler, you are probably mulling over a range of factors, from running and installation costs to whether fitting air conditioning is worth it in the UK, when, let's face it, for most of the time we are a nation that complains about the rain and the cold more than we do the heat.

It is worth bearing in mind that you don't have to fit air conditioning throughout your home to feel its benefits. For example, in my own home, it is the bedrooms that tend to overheat in summer. With this in mind, I asked the experts which rooms benefit the most from air conditioning – and where might it just be a waste of money.

Which rooms benefit the most from air conditioning?

If you love the idea of being able to cool down a room fast, but are worried about the cost of installing air conditioning, it really does pay to do your research in terms of which spaces are likely to benefit the most.

It is important to bear in mind that the type of house you live in and your individual needs will play a part here – there is not necessarily a one-size-fits-all solution, as air conditioning expert Tom Houlker, director of Houlkair, explains. 'Look for the room that causes the most discomfort, not the biggest. If there’s one bedroom you avoid in summer, or a home office where you’re constantly opening windows and still feel uncomfortable, that’s the place to start. It comes down to how the room is used, how often it overheats or gets cold, and whether the unit can realistically control that space. Installers will look at your room size, insulation, window position, sun exposure and how the air will move around.'

All the experts I spoke to agreed that there tended to be three common areas to focus on if you want to feel the benefits of air conditioning the most:

1. Bedrooms (particularly those that face south)

Cooling bedrooms down tends to be one of the biggest struggles homeowners face during a heatwave. Not only do they usually lie on the upper storeys of a house, which tend to get hotter than ground floor spaces, but they are also the one spot that really needs to feel comfortable in order to allow a good night's sleep.

'Without a doubt the master bedrooms and south-facing upstairs rooms benefit from air con the most,' picks up Kevin Pennington of Lancashire Air Conditioning. 'Because of changes to the building regulations leading to better insulation over the past 20 years or so, modern houses hold onto heat incredibly well. Some new build houses that we come across have a master bedroom facing into the sun meaning that they get direct sunlight through double glazed windows for up to 12 to 15 hours a day. That leads to those bedrooms, even in the north of England, reaching over 40°C in relatively cool but sunny weather. In very hot weather they can become completely uninhabitable.'

'Heatwaves can often lead to sleepless nights in summer so the master bedroom is the perfect place for an air conditioner,' agrees Sam Carter, HVAC expert at Appliances Direct, who goes on to explain that units which can also heat a space make a lot of sense in this room. 'Our homes are built to retain heat, which leads to restless, humid summer nights. A bedroom heat pump unit ensures optimal sleep hygiene in July, while offering a highly efficient, fast way to warm the room up in January without turning on the whole central heating system.'

2. Home offices

If you work from home, the last thing you need during a heatwave is to be sitting at your desk sweltering away.

'Along with the bedroom, a home office can be where you spend the most time in one spot and where temperature affects how you feel and function,' points out Tom Houlker. 'A home office that gets too warm or too cold quickly becomes uncomfortable to work in.'

Again, the location of your home office within your house needs to be considered carefully – if it tends to stay relatively cool no matter what the weather, a fixed air con unit will be a waste of money and it will be well worth looking at some of the best portable air conditioners as an alternative, as Tom explains. 'If the room has poor airflow, doors constantly open, or no real heat problem, you can end up paying for a system that never really earns its keep.'

3. Conservatories and garden rooms

Conservatories, heavily-glazed extensions and even garden rooms placed in a sunny spot are all prime candidates for overheating. If you were wondering whether air con is a good idea in a conservatory, rest assured, it is.

'A conservatory is effectively a greenhouse so they get incredibly hot,' says Kevin Pennington. 'Because modern air-conditioning units are actually heat pumps they can not only cool the room in summer but also provide really cheap heating in the winter. Putting a unit in a conservatory makes it a room you can use all year round instead of being an oven in summer and a freezer in winter.'

Tom Houlker is also keen to extoll the benefits of a fitting a unit that heats as well as cools. 'If the unit can heat as well, garden rooms, loft conversions and extensions can also be good candidates because they often sit outside the main heating pattern of the house.'

Which rooms is air conditioning a waste in?

Unless you are building from scratch and considering a whole house heating and cooling system, it tends to be more economical to pick and choose which rooms to install air conditioning in. Having spoken to the experts, it is clear that fixed units are a waste of time in certain spots around the house. So where is the worst place to put air conditioning?

'Air con is usually wasted in rooms people barely use or that already stay comfortable most of the year,' says Tom Houlker. 'I’d also be cautious with hallways, spare rooms, utility rooms or large open areas where one small unit is expected to do too much.'

'Air con is a complete waste of money in hallways, landings and open stairwells,' agrees Kevin Pennington. 'People often think they can just put one big unit at the top of the stairs and it will cool the whole house. It doesn’t work at all. Cold air sinks, so it just falls down the stairs like water and you end up with a freezing cold hallway while the bedrooms stay boiling hot. You should only ever put air conditioning in the rooms where you actually sleep or sit.

'It is also a waste of money in a kitchen if you have things like an AGA cooker left on all summer, or if you are running dishwashers and tumble dryers during the day because the heat produced by these appliances is just fighting the air conditioning,' continues Kevin.

What air con alternatives are worth considering?

Ultimately, air conditioning is not going to be right for every type of space or household. However, that doesn't mean you have to resign yourself to hanging out in the local supermarket in summer in order to get some respite from the heat – there are some great alternatives out there to consider instead.

That said, before you rush out to spend your money on the best fans around, Kevin Pennington has some words of wisdom. 'If people want to look at non air-con solutions before spending money they need to first stop the house getting too hot in the first place. A big mistake homeowners make is closing curtains made from dark heavy fabrics. These, along with aluminium or dark wood blinds, absorb heat. This causes the room to get significantly hotter than it should be. A great way around this is getting white curtains and fitting them very close to the glass to reflect sun away. Heat reflective film on the windows really helps too.'

When it comes to fans, there are several cooling hacks you can try in order to up their efficiency, plus there are now some really clever new products out there, such as misting fans and portable air coolers that cost far less than air con but can be super effective.

Before spending any money on an air con unit for your home, be sure to research portable vs fitted air conditioning so that you can feel confident you are opting for the right system for you and your home.

Overheating in UK houses is a common issue during the summer and without air conditioning, ceiling fans or other ways to keep our houses cool, when a heatwave strikes many are stuck with no refuge for cooling.

I'm fortunate that my home has a few design features that help keep it cool in summer, but I do try to be mindful about minimising the possibility of overheating wherever I can.

When my partner and I replaced a single back door of my home with extra-wide patio doors leading to our courtyard garden, I was in two minds. The doors face west and receive afternoon and early evening light, which in turn could cause overheating in our open plan signing and kitchen area. But I've made two key decisions that help minimise the risk.

1. I used our existing landscaping shade our patio doors

The old single back door was bookended by two well-maintained and established climber plants; a wisteria and a clematis. Both are absolutely stunning in the spring and autumn when in flower, but from February to November, the area is almost continuously shaded by their foliage.

So, when we knocked through to create our double patio doors with glazing panels, I let them go wild. While we do follow advice on pruning and pinning back, I’m not a stickler for keeping them small, in fact I positively love that they have grown so bushy and free. The resulting shade means by the time the sun hits our patio doors there is only about an hour or so before the next plant takes over shading duties.

Another bonus is that trees have been proven to reduce air temperature so even when the doors are open, cooler air is the closest to our interiors.

Although it is hard to age wisteria, I would estimate it to be at least 20 years old, which is why flowers are in abundance twice a year and it grows at an exponential rate. Similarly the clematis must be older than 15 years, given its thick and woody branches. Sadly, younger wisteria won’t produce the same amount of shading we have established and clematis spend their first few years establishing roots, rather than height, but faster growing climbers could be just the trick if you’re looking to emulate our effect.

2. I bought a sail parasol to catch the late afternoon sun

Despite the planting doing a fantastic job, there is a short period when the does hit the patio doors, so, in an effort to also shelter our courtyard garden from the melty highs of a heatwave, we installed a sail shade.

These designs as an option for garden shade have been growing in popularity for sun traps like ours. We learned the hard way that an umbrella-style parasol just doesn’t do the trick when the sun is high and we found we were continuously moving the shade. The sail parasol provides far better coverage and can be taken down really easily when the risk of heatstoke is less.

Happily for us, the sail shade also shields the patio doors when the sun is moving between the clematis and wisteria.

A more permanent option we might look into in the future is a pergola with climbers growing overhead or with a retractable shade. ‘I'd strongly suggest a wall-mounted or freestanding pergola with an adjustable louvred roof offers both shade and sun. You can also add a screen to the side(s) of the pergola to further combat low sun,’ explains Rob Mead, buying director at White Stores.

Alternatively, bringing out the flat roof when we come to replace it would also be a good investment in adapting our home to long-term climate changes.

‘External overhangs above large windows, heat pumps with a reverse cooling mode, tiled or stone floors for thermal mass, and deciduous planting to the south and west — shade in summer, sun in winter. These are all relatively simple interventions that make a real difference,’ adds Zaeem Chaudhary, director at AC Design Solution.

Why is overheating in UK homes a problem?

Unfortunately, UK housing stock in the last 50 years has predominantly featured small rooms with minimal ventilation or air circulation consideration and small windows, usually just on one wall. This means that, due to our focus on heat-retention in the winter, any heat that is let in during the day in summer, especially during a heatwave, keeps radiating from our walls.

‘British homes aren't bad at managing heat; they are just built exclusively for winters,’ explains Ali Mujtuba from The Historical Insights. ‘For generations, the goal has been maximum thermal retention. We use heavy brickwork, thick insulation layers, and tight envelopes to prevent heat from escaping. The problem is that during a summer spike, this architecture acts as a massive thermal battery. It absorbs solar radiation all day, holds it, and then slowly radiates that heat inward long after sunset.’

Therefore, the aim of the game in UK summers is to minimise the amount of heat able to penetrate your home, by keeping windows and curtains closed during the day and only opening them up at night.

However, as a nation in love with renovation and extensions, we have begun to include large-scale glazing within our home, which might be fine for 99% of the year, but could contribute to overheating during a heatwave.

‘Unlike southern European homes, UK homes rarely feature air-conditioning units or external shutters designed to block UV radiation before it hits the glass, which is why many homes often feel warmer than outdoors after a long sunny day,’ says Chloe Burrow from Laura James Homes.

‘In the UK, we often see massive windows facing the sun to let in light, but this creates a greenhouse effect. Short-wave solar radiation passes through the glass, hits the interior surfaces, and converts into long-wave infrared heat that gets trapped inside,’ concludes Ali Mujtuba.

Once you've made efforts to minimise how much sun is coming through your windows and doors, if you're still uncomfortably hot, you'll need to have one of the best fans or portable air conditioners, or it might even be time to consider fitted air conditioning.

Maybe it is because the last few summers have treated us so well here in the UK, but since the arrival of warmer weather, I have seriously been considering investing in air conditioning for several of the rooms around our house. In all honesty, it is the bedrooms that would benefit the most – thanks to a lack of insulation in the roof and loft, as well as the fact that two of them are south-facing, they can transform into stuffy little saunas at certain times of the year.

In the past, I have questioned whether air conditioning is worth it in the UK and been put off taking the plunge, partly because of costs, but mainly because, in my view, most systems seem to require the presence of some form of bulky white box, either stuck slap bang in the middle of the room in the case of portable units, or mounted on the wall, looming down and lending the whole space a distinctly office-like feel.

But does it always have to be this way? Is there, I wondered, a more attractive way to incorporate air conditioning that would offer me a cooler, better, night's sleep without spoiling the decor scheme? I reached out to some experts – and was pleasantly surprised by what they told me.

Does air conditioning have to look ugly?

While I wholeheartedly agree that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, there can't be many people who long to include a great big plastic white box stuck to the wall as part of their otherwise carefully curated interior scheme.

Martyn Fowler, founder of Elite Renewables, explains where most people go wrong. 'Air conditioning can absolutely look good, but it has to be thought about properly. The problem is that a lot of systems are fitted as an afterthought. Someone chooses the unit, finds a spare bit of wall and then runs pipework wherever it is easiest. That is when it starts to look messy.'

Kevin Pennington, owner and MD of Lancashire Air Conditioning, has some more insight on why air con can be an eyesore. 'Air conditioning absolutely does not need to be ugly. It has a bad reputation here in the UK because we do not have a fully developed air-conditioning market. Many people tend to just rush out and buy the first unit they see, not necessarily thinking about the design – just how to be able to sleep tonight during the latest heatwave.'

Can fitted air conditioning look stylish?

I have been weighing up portable vs fitted air conditioning and I still can't shake the notion that all wall-mounted air conditioning units look like cumbersome off-white boxes – fine in an office setting, but not in my living room.

However, Martyn Fowler has some words of reassurance. 'Modern indoor units are much neater than they used to be. You can choose slimline systems with stylish finishes, and concealed systems that are almost invisible apart from the grille. If it is planned into the room from the start, it does not have to ruin the look at all.'

'There are much better-looking options now than the big white office-style boxes people usually picture,' agrees Tom Houlker, director of Houlkair. 'Slim wall-mounted units are the most common choice and many now have cleaner, flatter fronts, softer edges, and quieter designs that suit bedrooms and living rooms better. Floor-mounted units can also look neater in some homes because they sit low, more like a slim radiator, rather than dominating the wall at eye level.'

'I have fitted around 1,100 units and I’d estimate that around 950 of these have been standard white units – even the very best ones are still ultimately white boxes,' says Kevin Pennington. 'However if you are willing to spend a little more money the options really open up.

'Consider a dark-coloured or black unit, such as the LG Artcool Mirror which has smoked black glass on the front,' suggests Kevin. 'The Toshiba Haori is another great option with an interchangeable fabric cover. You can even get an LG unit that looks like a photo frame.'

Similarly, Daikin has launched it's Stylish range, which includes eight different finishes for the indoor unit, including leather-look, fabric and wood effect options that can suit most homes.

How can you make wall-mounted air con look more attractive?

If, like me, you don't necessarily want to add to your air conditioning costs by opening up the walls and ceilings for a concealed system, according to the experts there are still ways to make wall-mounted units blend into your interior scheme.

'Air conditioning looks ugly when it is too big, in the wrong place, or badly installed,' points out Martyn Fowler. 'If you put a large white unit in the middle of a feature wall, it becomes the first thing you see. I always try to position units where they make sense for airflow but do not dominate the room.

'Think about sight lines too,' continues Martyn. 'Where do you see it from when you walk into the room? Is it above a doorway, on a side wall, or directly opposite the sofa? And, get the sizing right. An oversized unit is more noticeable and it might perform badly because it cools the space too quickly and then shuts off. A properly-sized system is quieter, neater and more comfortable.'

Tom Houlker has some more tips on the worst places for air conditioning and how to make air con less obvious. 'Don’t try too hard to hide it. A badly boxed-in unit can end up looking awkward, and it can also struggle to cool properly, collect dust, and be a nightmare to service.

'A clean install usually looks better than a cover-up, so choose the position carefully and keep the pipework tidy,' continues Tom. 'One trick that helps is placing the unit in line with something already in the room, like the top of a door frame, wardrobe, or shelving, so it feels intentional rather than randomly stuck on the wall. If it can sit slightly off the focal wall, away from artwork, TVs, or feature lighting, people notice the room first and the unit second.'

What is the best way to hide air conditioning?

Still not convinced? In that case, it might be best to consider a concealed air conditioning system.

'For the cleanest finish, ducted air conditioning is usually the best-looking option because you only see the grilles, but it needs a ceiling void, loft space, or a bulkhead to hide the ductwork,' explains Tom Houlker. 'The main thing is to choose the unit style around the room, not just the cooling requirement. A small bedroom, open-plan kitchen or period living room may all need different approaches if you want the system to look like it belongs there.'

'If it is a main living area you are dealing with, I'd look at a concealed ducted unit,' says Martyn Fowler. 'In some homes, pipework can be routed through cupboards and loft spaces so you see much less of it. External trunking is needed but it can be colour matched or positioned along existing lines of the building so it blends in better.'

Can portable air conditioners look stylish?

I was recently lucky enough to test out a brilliant portable air conditioner – the VonHaus' 9000BTU portable air conditioning unit – and, while it was really effective in cooling down a bedroom, the fact remains that it was a big white box that required me to sling the hose out of the window, where it sat, dangling in the wind. I am keen to know, is there a way to make these portable units look more attractive?

'Portable units are harder to make attractive than fixed,' picks up Martyn Fowler. 'They are mostly bulky and you have the exhaust hose going out of a window.'

Chris Michael, co-founder and chief product officer at Meaco, agrees that portable units can be hard to blend in. 'There is a limit to what can be done to improve the appearance of a portable air conditioner, but Meaco has looked closely at how to make them easier to live with through its new Meaco Cirro range (above). We realise that a large plastic box is not what consumers want in their homes, especially their bedrooms. The actual size there is not a huge amount you can do about, but what we have done is to use good design to make it look softer and the two tone approach helps to create the illusion that it is smaller than it actually is.

'There is, however, a practical limitation with any portable air conditioner,' continues Chris. 'To cool a room effectively, it needs to expel hot exhaust air outside, so it must be connected to a window kit when in cooling mode. I'd advise placing the unit where it has enough space around it to draw in and treat the room air properly, while using the window kit and exhaust duct as neatly as possible.'

Kevin Pennington agrees that even making the best portable air conditioners into an attractive feature is a tough call, although he does have one solution. 'If someone has a portable unit and wants to vent it without having to hang it out of the window for all to see, they could consider having a hole drilled though the wall for it and fit an exterior vent. This usually comes in at £200-£300 to do.'

FAQs

Will air conditioning ruin the kerb appeal of my house?

Portable air conditioning units have to be vented to outside (usually through a window), and fixed units also need an exterior unit meaning both will have an effect on the external appearance of your home. How can homeowners navigate this without it ruining kerb appeal?

'Poorly routed trunking on the exterior is one of the biggest things that makes an installation look bad,' picks up Martyn Fowler. 'If the pipes run across brickwork in bright white plastic, they stand out immediately. You want to avoid putting the external unit somewhere too visible if there is a better option. Side returns, rear elevations and tucked-away areas can work well, as long as the unit still has proper airflow and access for servicing.

'This is where planning matters,' continues Martyn. 'With a fixed split system, you don't want to leave pipe runs until the installer arrives. You should think about where the indoor unit sits, where the outdoor unit can go, and how the pipework will travel between them.'

If you have decided that a portable unit is the best option for your needs, make sure you know how to choose the right portable air conditioner before shopping around – that way you can be sure your investment will be worthwhile.

For much of the year my old house is a chilly place to spend time in, with the ground floor in particular somehow refusing to hold on to heat no matter what the temperatures outside – in fact, I have been known to step out into the garden to warm up a little when working from home.

However, once summer hits, the first floor bedrooms transform into stuffy sauna-like spaces that can, at times, become almost unbearably hot, making getting a good night's sleep nigh on impossible. Despite trying all kinds of ways of keeping a bedroom cool, nothing seems to work.

With more warm weather just around the corner (hopefully), I reached out to the experts for some help in the hope of staying cool in bed – and I was surprised to learn that many of my daily habits, some of which I thought would help keep my house fresh and cool, were actually making things far worse. If, like me, you struggle to keep your house feeling breezy in the heat, here's what they had to say.

1. Opening up windows in warm weather

I don't know about you, but when temperatures rise inside my house, the first thing I do is fling open the windows, after all we have all come to realise the benefits of burping a house. However, according to all the experts I spoke to, this could actually be making matters worse.

'Many people open windows as soon as it feels warm. However, if the air outside is hotter than the air inside, you are effectively pumping heat into your home,' explains Rich Millard, senior sustainability consultant at Building Energy Experts, who goes on to explain the concept of night purging. 'At night, open all windows to allow the cooler air through. Come morning, close all windows and keep curtains drawn before using fans to move around air within the home.'

Kevin Pennington, owner and MD of Lancashire Air Conditioning, agrees that opening windows at the wrong times of day is a seriously bad idea. 'You are allowing warm air in and this then causes the house to get hotter than it would if you kept the windows and doors shut. This applies whenever the outside temperature is warmer than the inside.

'Generally, on days above 25°C that are very sunny, I keep my windows open very early in the morning when the air temperature is still cold and then I reopen them late at night when the air temperature is below that inside,' adds Kevin. 'This is a free, natural way to cool a house.'

2. Leaving my appliances on

I'm going to admit that I am terrible when it comes to turning anything off at the sockets – appliances, chargers, lamps, you name it, there they sit on stand-by. Not only do these vampire appliances guzzle energy, but, according the the experts, they could also be making my house hotter.

'We often forget that appliances (ovens, computers and even big-screen TVs) act as radiators,' points out Rich Millard. 'Leaving these on standby or cooking heavy meals during the hottest part of the day significantly raises the baseline temperature.'

'Other appliances that cause excess heat are dishwashers and tumble dryers,' picks up Kevin Pennington. 'In a hot spell, the heat produced by these appliances can take rooms from being hot to being unbearable. And on a hot day it is far better to dry clothes outside than in the tumble dryer anyway – it’s free, better for the environment and, in my opinion, the clothes feel better (fluffy towels excluded).'

3. Not being tactical about closing my curtains

On a hot day, I always mean (but often forget) to nip upstairs in the afternoon to close the curtains in our south-facing bedroom – it makes the world of difference to how cool the room feels come bedtime, keeping it closer to the ideal temperature to sleep in.

'Homeowners often leave curtains and blinds open to enjoy the natural light in south-facing rooms but this creates a greenhouse effect that is very difficult to reverse once the sun goes down,' explains Rich Millard. 'Rather than just closing thin indoor curtains though, use heavy, light-coloured curtains or, ideally, external shutters or awnings too.'

I hadn't actually realised the effect using the right types of bedroom curtains could help here.

'Heavy materials in dark fabrics, and aluminium or dark wood blinds, absorb heat,' explains Kevin Pennington. 'This causes the room to get significantly hotter than it should be. A great way around this is getting white or light-coloured curtains and fitting them as close to the glass as you can to reflect the light away. Heat reflective film on the windows and their reveals really helps too.'

Shop thermal window treatments

4. Not addressing my lack of adequate loft insulation

While this one is going to take a bit more effort to put right than some of the others, I am horribly aware that one of the main reasons my house gets too hot upstairs is because of the lack of proper loft insulation.

'There is a common myth that insulation is only for keeping heat in during winter. In reality, poor or patchy insulation allows external heat to seep through the roof and walls more quickly in the summer,' explains Rich Millard.

'An uninsulated loft with dark tiles or slates is effectively a large heater,' picks up Kevin Pennington. 'The tiles or slates get red hot during the day leading to an air temperature in the loft of up to 50°C in some circumstances. If there is no insulation between the loft and the house then the heat in the ceiling above the rooms can becoming incredibly warm.'

5. Using my air conditioning all wrong

Whenever a heatwave hits, you can pretty much guarantee that there will be a rush on portable air conditioners, and for good reason. I recently got my hands on this Vonhaus' portable air conditioner and it really does make a difference so quickly, but, only now am I realising that I could be using it so much more effectively.

'The mistake I see all the time is people trying to cool the room they’re in, while leaving warm air to drift in from the rest of the house,' explains Tom Houlker, air conditioning installation and service expert and the director of Houlk Air. 'Cool air escapes quickly through open internal doors, stairwells and unused rooms, so the AC ends up chasing heat rather than controlling the space.'

So how should I use it? 'Treat it like zoning, shut off the areas you’re not using, keep airflow clear around the unit, and let it cool one space properly instead of asking it to fight the whole house,' advises Tom.

FAQs

Can using a fan cool down a room?

The best fans can definitely provide some relief during hot spells, but it is important to realise their limitations, as well as the most common fan mistakes, if you want to get the most out of your particular unit.

'Don't just point a fan at yourself. Use fans to move air within the home to prevent hot spots, or place a fan near a window at night to help pull the cooler outside air in more efficiently,' advises Rich Millard.

Some people swear by placing a bowl of ice behind the fan in order to cool the air being blown out – I actually tried this and found it surprisingly effective.

While fans can provide a very welcome breeze in warmer weather, it is important that you understand where not to put a fan if you want to feel maximum benefits.

With reports rife that the UK could experience the hottest summer on record, it's no wonder that more and more people are looking for solutions to stay comfortable when the temperatures rise.

I've already seen the best portable air conditioners selling out during the first heatwave of the year when we experienced 30°C weather at the end of May. And if previous years are anything to go by, these appliances will sell out again come summer.

Whenever a heatwave hits, I also see spikes in people looking into fitted air conditioning, despite rumours of an air conditioning ban. But is it really worth it? Well I've had fitted air conditioning in my living room for about a year, and this is my honest take on how much I've really used it in that time.

How much have I used my fitted air conditioning?

My house is south-east facing and so it gets a lot of sun, which means it gets very hot during the summer. I also tend to run hot so I use the air con very regularly over the warmer months. I'd say if outdoor temperatures are over 20°C, I will have the air con on at some point over the course of the day. Between May and September, that's likely a daily occurrence.

How long I have it on for will vary depending on the level of sunlight streaming in, what the actual temperature is, and what I'm doing. It could be anything from a quick 10-minute blast a couple of times a day, or in the case of a heatwave, it could be on for hours at a time.

If I know I am going to have it on for a long time, I tend to choose the night mode, which is the quietest and gentlest cooling breeze that keeps me comfortably and consistently cool without making it chilly.

However, when temperatures drop and autumn and winter set in, I will admit I very rarely use the air con. If I get cold in between the times when my heating comes on, then I have occasionally used it in heat mode to take the edge off, but my house tends to hold on to heat quite well so I've not needed to do this more than a handful of times. It does give me a bit of reassurance, though. I once had a very miserable week or so in February when my boiler packed up, and I had to wait for the plumber to come and install a new one. Had I had the air con at that point, I would have at least had one room that I could warm up and make cosy.

Has fitted air con been expensive to run?

When the days are hotter, the air con has to work harder to cool the air, and when looking at my smart meter, it's a very similar story to heating my home in an especially cold snap.

So while energy bills are usually a lot lower in the summer because the heating isn't on, that may not be the case when you use fitted air conditioning in a heatwave.

However, as someone who gets anxious about heatwaves, it's a price I'm prepared to pay to stay cool.

Do I still think fitted air conditioning is worth it?

I absolutely think fitted air conditioning is worth it. I had mine fitted through BOXT, and I'm so glad I did. I work from home and have a dog so being able to have a room where we can escape excessive heat and still be able to function at work has been very beneficial. It's also meant there is a cool spot in the house to sleep when needed, which helps to reduce my anxiety levels and maintain my body's circadian rhythm in line, keeping me focused during the day.

Before I had fitted air conditioning, I would keep my blackout blinds closed for a large portion of the day. When heatwaves extend for days at a time, this can start to feel a little miserable. But with fitted AC, I can have them open longer and not feel like I'm shut up in a cave.

It's also really quick to cool the space. There's no lugging heavy appliances out of storage, setting up a window kit or venting anything out of the window. You simply press the button on the remote and sit back and wait a few seconds for the room to cool down.

While it was definitely the right choice for my home, however, it's not without it's downsides. Firstly, it's not a feasible option for those who rent, due to the changes needing to install the kit. It's understandably going to add to your energy bills too, and at a time when energy prices are set to rise by 13%, that's not desirable for anybody. Plus, you do have to compromise by having a permanent unit installed both inside and outside. They're not pretty by any means, but for me, being cool is worth the sacrifice.

If you're not quite ready to commit to fitted air con, or its not a feasible option for your home, then a portable air conditioner, like the new Meaco Cirro range (from £519.99 at Meaco) or a misting fan like the Shark FlexBreeze HydroGo (£129.99 at Shark) or the Dreo 765S TurboCool misting fan (£169.99 at Amazon)will help to boost your home's cooling power.

The rumour mill has been buzzing with talk that underfloor heating is going to be banned in the UK. But is there any truth to the gossip?

While not every home has underfloor heating, it is an increasingly popular choice for those looking for even heat and clear walls. While wet underfloor heating tends to only be installed as part of a new build or extension project, electric underfloor heating is much easier to install in an existing home.

But under new Government rules, some electric underfloor heating systems could be removed from sale. This is everything we know so far.

Is underfloor heating going to be banned in the UK?

No, underfloor heating isn't going to be banned in the UK. Rumours of a ban instead stem from Government proposals to ensure that inefficient heating systems are phased out.

Stricter energy efficiency standards that the Government wants to introduce will mean that electric underfloor heating systems that are deemed inefficient will no longer be available to buy. This will only impact new products and not those already installed in homes, with inefficient models phased out by 2027.

As part of it's wider initiatives around energy security and Net Zero targets, the Government is proposing to update the minimum energy performance standard for local space heaters, like electric underfloor heating as well as things like electric radiators and towel rails as well as gas stoves and radiant heaters.

'Homeowners shouldn't be alarmed by headlines suggesting that underfloor heating, heated towel rails or gas fires are set to be banned,' explains John Klee, heating technology expert at BestHeating. 'The proposals currently being discussed relate to the efficiency standards that new heating products must meet before they can be sold in the UK, rather than the systems already installed in people's homes.

'The aim is to encourage the development of more energy-efficient products, often through improved controls such as thermostats and timers, helping households reduce energy consumption and lower running costs over time.'

According to the consultation document on the new rules, electric space heating in domestic properties accounted for 4% of all electricity demand in the UK in 2024. 'It is therefore essential to make sure these local space heaters are as energy efficient as possible,' the Government says.

Under the proposals, Ecodesign regulations for local space heaters in the UK will be updated to be in line with the EU. That means that higher performance requirements must be reached before the products can be sold in the UK.

The proposals also introduce requirements for these products to come with controls and low-power modes to help people use them more efficiently and reduce unnecessary energy wastage.

Furthermore, the proposals introduce 'right to repair' measures, which mean manufacturers will need to supply spare parts, like controls, thermostats and heating elements, for a minimum of 10 years. This is to cut waste and emissions from manufacturing and disposal.

As a result of these measures, almost half (48%) of electric underfloor heating systems currently available will be removed from sale.

What about wet underfloor heating?

Wet underfloor heating isn't going to be banned either, as Matthew Powell, founder of WarmZilla, explains: 'What’s happening is a wider shift in building regulations and net zero policy that affects how heating systems are designed and installed, especially in new builds. Recent proposals and commentary have included tighter efficiency rules and a push away from high carbon heating systems, but underfloor heating itself is not being targeted for removal.

'In fact, underfloor heating is generally considered a compatible low temperature heating method that works well with heat pumps, which are being encouraged as part of the UK’s transition to lower carbon homes. Some confusion comes from discussions around Future Homes Standard rules and efficiency requirements that favour low temperature systems, but this is about improving performance standards, not banning UFH.'

What does this mean for those who want or have electric underfloor heating?

If you are thinking about installing electric underfloor heating at home, then it's worth asking your chosen retailer or installer about the most energy efficient option. Inefficient models will be phased out over the next six months, so you won't be able to buy them.

The new rules will mean that any electric underfloor heating system you buy will be more energy efficient, and therefore, will have a positive effect on your energy bills.

However, it also means that you may have to pay more to buy the electric underfloor heating in the first place. 'The immediate impact will be on the upfront cost for heating appliances, with manufacturer efforts to create more innovative and energy-efficient designs likely to result in increased costs being passed on to consumers, with fewer budget-friendly options remaining on the market,' says Anton Neike, Energy Expert and CEO at Taupia. 'However, the Government argues households will be better off in the long term through lower running costs.

'On the other hand, once more efficient underfloor heating systems with smarter controls become more readily available, running costs may become more predictable for consumers who’ll have more control over how much their system is used.'

If you already have electric underfloor heating, you won't be impacted by the changes until you want to replace your existing system. 'When it comes time to upgrade, homeowners may benefit from newer systems that incorporate enhanced efficiency features and smarter controls,' adds John Klee. 'However, for now, those with existing installations can continue using them as normal, confident that these proposals are focused on future product standards rather than current heating systems.'

On heatwave days in the UK, I’m never more thankful for my higgeldy-piddeldy mish-mash of a house. Somehow, between the 1700s stone cottage, the single-storey ‘70s extension and our own renovations over the last few years, we have created a space that is ideal for summer weather.

Despite the warm - to put it mildly - days over the last few weeks, the interior of our house always stayed at a fairly pleasant temperature thanks to a few architectural, interior and landscaping design elements. We had a BBQ when it was 37ºC outside and our guests were adamant we were hiding an AC unit somewhere, but really, it was just a simple pillar fan pushing cool air around.

While it’s not perfect, these are our house’s ingenious ways to keep us cool.

1. We have no south-facing windows

This one we had very little to do with, but it might be something you bear in mind if you’re planning on renovating or building an extension in the future. Our entire house doesn’t have a single south-facing window, meaning throughout the majority of the day we are in shade.

‘Homes with minimal south-facing glass usually tend to be cooler, as larger south or west-facing windows without external shutters or shading can often heat up homes fast,’ explains Chloe Barrow, Interior Expert at Laura James. ‘Because of this, having minimal south-facing glass is great for summer, however we have to appreciate that in our long winters, south-facing glass is great for getting natural light into the home.’

While you can’t reorientate your entire house just for a few days in the summer, reducing the amount of light that penetrates the windows by using strategic window treatments/dressings will be a game-changer.

‘While blinds can look sleek, they often do little to block out heat,’ advises Chloe Barrow. ‘Thin slatted styles especially allow sunlight and warmth to seep in, which quickly raises the internal temperature. In contrast, curtains, especially those with a thermal or blackout lining, can significantly reduce heat from coming in. They create a thicker barrier between your home and the sun’s rays, helping to keep rooms noticeably cooler. During summer, I recommend keeping curtains drawn during the hottest parts of the day to maintain a lower ambient temperature.”

2. We replaced our old windows with low-e glazing

When we replaced our windows they came with a low-e film to meet Building Regulations. Low-e glazing includes a tiny layer of silver-oxide coating which reflects the heat away from the house, instead of allowing it to be refracted indoors. It added a cost to our glazing budget and some people might not like it in winter when their rooms are ever so slightly less bright, but we’ve found them to be non-negotiable.

‘Low-e glazing or simple, calculated roof overhangs stop that energy from crossing the building envelope in the first place, which is much easier than trying to cool a room down after the fact,’ explains Ali Mujtuba.

3. Our layout helps create a through-breeze at night

Anyone who has a warmer house will have sought this bit of advice already - it’s really, really important to keep windows closed during the day in a heatwave, ideally also with the curtains shut. It is only when the external temperature is lower than your internal temperature that you should open your windows.

The broken-plan layout of our renovation was completely accidental in how effective the space is at letting a through-breeze circulate at night. The single-storey section allows air to flow through towards the stone section, where we have installed rooflights.

Zaeem Chaudhary, director of AC Design Solution. explains: ‘Hot air rises — a stack effect where cooler air enters low openings and escapes through high-level rooflights passively purges the heat that builds up in your structure throughout the day. ‘Open-plan layouts remove the internal barriers that would otherwise kill that airflow.’

‘Most people don’t realise that placing large furniture pieces too close to walls can actually stifle air circulation,’ suggests Chloe Barrow. ‘Air needs space to move, especially around naturally cooler areas like walls and floors. If your sofa or sideboard is pressed right up against the wall, you’re limiting that airflow and trapping heat in pockets. Even just pulling pieces a few centimetres away can help fresh air move more freely through the space.’

4. We've decorated in pale colours inside and out

The exterior of the house was painted by the old owners in an extremely pale pink that has faded over time to almost a white. While my plan is to eventually repaint this, I’m definitely going to follow their lead as the pale colour will reflect heat better than a darker colour. You’ll see this design being used in continuously hot countries to reduce solar gain.

Our main interior section, including the kitchen, living room and dining area are all painted in an off-white, which feels much cooler than a dark, rich colour palette.

5. We maximise thermal mass

I was adamant we would not have any carpet in this house, including inside the bedrooms. We used engineered wood flooring throughout the main living area and in the two finished bedrooms. In the old section of the house the original flagstones are in place and in the bathroom we have tile. We’re also working on exposing some internal stone walls to expose as much thermal mass as possible.

This is a technique that has been used throughout history. ‘Exposed stone, ceramic tile, or concrete floor slabs act as direct heat sinks,’ advises historical researcher Ali Mijtuba from The Historical Insights. ‘They absorb ambient warmth from the air during peak daylight hours without rapidly raising the temperature of the room. If someone wants to take it a step further, using internal brickwork or unbaked clay plaster can do wonders. These materials absorb the ambient daytime heat load and drop it slowly overnight when the windows are open.'

6. We've embraced natural shading

Although I said above that we don’t have any south-facing windows, we do actually have our main patio doors that face west that we installed during our major renovation works two years ago. However, thanks to existing mature planting we are able to keep the glass shaded throughout most of the day, meaning the solar gain from the windows is minimal, if at all.

While our wisteria and clematis are extremely well-established, there are other ways you can utilise garden design and strategic planting to shade your patio doors. Fast-growing climbers, such as jasmine or honeysuckle would bulk out fairly quickly if grown up a trellis or pergola. Potted bamboo that can be moved once the sun has returned for the year is also a fantastic alternative.

I don't think any of us were expecting temperatures to exceed 30°C in May, and for me, it felt like a bit of a scramble to get my home heatwave ready.

While I aspire to be one of those people who has a consistently cool home in summer, I do have a way to go, and so I'm taking stock of how my home faired in this first proper hot spell of the year. After all, if past summers are anything to go by, these record temperatures are going to be more commonplace, and as someone who isn't that heat tolerant, works from home and has a pet, keeping as cool as possible is a non-negotiable.

This is what I've learned and what prep I'm doing now for when it gets hot again.

1. It's worth having different types of fans

Investing in one of the best fans is essential for surviving a heatwave in some sort of comfort, but lugging one fan around the house with you is no fun when it's hot. Plus the type of fan you need might vary depending on where you want to use it.

So I've decided I need multiple fans. I like a really quiet pedestal fan in the bedroom and living room, a desktop fan for when I'm working, plus a handheld portable fan that can go with me whenever I am out of reach of the others.

2. Somewhere cool to sleep is a non-negotiable

For some inexplicable reason, my bedroom is hands-down the hottest room in the house and it's very difficult to keep it cool no matter what I do. And that's a big problem when it comes to sleep.

After spending a couple of nights sleeping on the sofa (and now physically paying the price), I've decided that I need an comfortable option for sleeping downstairs when it's roasting hot.

My ideal would be upgrading to a sofa bed, but if my budget won't stretch that far,

3. I need more cooling solutions in my garden

While I'm careful to only walk my dog early in the morning when it's coolest, she does need to go out into the garden throughout the day. And my garden is a roasty little sun-trap, which is nice on mild days, but absolutely unbearable in a heatwave.

And so I need to create more options for shade and doggy cooling before we get the next hot spell.

4. A misting fan is a good halfway house between a fan and portable AC

When it gets really hot, it can feel that fans are just blowing warm air around the room. But if you don't want to go down the portable air conditioner route, then a misting fan is a good mid point.

I just tried by first misting fan, and was really impressed by how cooling it was. I didn't end up drenched either. You've got to be in the path of the airflow to feel the benefit, unlike a portable AC that will effectively cool the entire room.

5. I shouldn't wait for a heatwave to buy a portable air conditioner

Every single time there is a heatwave, the best portable air conditioners sell out. We've been covering portable air conditioners for years at Ideal Home and we've seen it happen time and time again.

When I realised that my bedroom has reached 29°C, despite having the window and curtains closed, I was ready to treat a portable air conditioner as an impulse purchase and finally buy the one I'd had my eye on for a while. But alas, so had every other boiling hot person in the country it seemed, and my top picks were quickly selling out.

But now I have learned my lesson, I will definitely not wait until the heatwave hits to buy a portable air con unit, I'm keeping an eye on stock levels and as soon as my favourite is back in stock, I'm buying it.

While it's lovely that summer weather has finally arrived in the UK, I do hate when my house gets too hot for comfort. As someone who's not very heat tolerant at the best of times, works from home and has a pet, not being able to find respite in the heat can be really difficult.

While a home's orientation and insulation levels will play a big part in how susceptible it is to overheating, there are a few key things that those with consistently cool homes during the summer have that can be applied to any home to keep unwanted heat out.

This year, I'm determined this year to do everything I can to prevent my home from overheating, especially if that means I can stay cool in bed overnight. So I've done my research and quizzed my friends whose homes always seem to be comfortably cool when the heat hits, and these are the tricks they swear by.

1. A decent fan

Having one of the best fans ready to go in your home when the heat hits is absolutely essential. But not all fans are created equal, and if you've still got the same inexpensive fan that you've had for 10 years it might be time to upgrade.

Many of the newer fans on the market are more powerful, more energy efficient and offer much better oscillation than their older counterparts, which means they are much more effective at getting the air circulating around your home. That air movement across your skin helps you to feel cooler and, if you position your fan correctly, can push hot air out and help you draw cooler air in.

2. Blackout curtains or blinds

Blackout or thermal blinds and curtains are not only useful for keeping your home warm in winter, but they can also help keep it cool in summer by effectively blocking the sunlight from coming in to your home.

But for this to be most effective you have to be strategic about when you open and close them. Having the curtains (and windows) open overnight can help release the warm air that has built up in your home during the day, and let in the fresher air during the coolest hours of the day.

It's a good idea to then close your blinds while your home is at it's coolest, and before the sun has chance to stream through your windows again.

3. Outdoor shade

If you have large windows or patio doors to your garden, then you might be enjoying beautiful views of your outdoor space, but you're probably also making your home hotter. Especially if you have a south-facing garden.

But those with cool homes have embraced either permanent or temporary garden shade ideas to prevent overheating, while maintaining views and connection with the outdoor space.

Sun sails, awnings and pergolas attached to, or placed close to your home, can offer additional shade around large patio doors, and help to ease solar gain. Even fast-growing climbing plants can help to provide a bit of additional shade to keep your home feeling cool.

4. Smart plugs

Leaving appliances on standby not only means that you could be wasting energy, but they could also be emitting heat which is making your home hotter (and which means you have to work harder to cool it down).

Investing in smart plug that will allow you to use your phone to turn off any vampire appliances that you aren't using will mean that they stop generating any unnecessary heat without you realising it.

It could also prevent the appliances themselves from overheating.

For those appliances that you do use more regularly, like ovens, switching to an air fryer during a heatwave can help keep your kitchen cool.

5. Air conditioning

For those with the most consistently cool homes during summer, air conditioning is arguably the biggest game changer. With summers seemingly getting hotter each year, more and more people are turning to portable or even fitted air con options to maintain their comfort levels at home.

The easiest and most affordable option is to invest in a portable air conditioner. While these units can be noisy, using them to pre-cool a room before you use it can make it much more bearable.

The quietest option, however, is to opt for fitted air conditioning. But with these units fixed to your wall, you can't move it around with you, so you'll need to pick which room or rooms you want cooling most. This is also a more expensive option. Where a portable air conditioner could cost around £400, fitted air con in a single room could cost around £2,000.

Conservatories have undoubtedly come a long way since the days when they picked up their reputation for being leaky, draughty add-ons that were freezing in winter and unbearably hot in summer, but that doesn't mean they don't still throw up a few issues from time to time.

Being constructed from such a large amount of glass inevitably means that, when the sun is beating down, even high-quality conservatories can become pretty balmy – so if you don't want to find yourself having to avoid spending time there you will need to think about how you will address this.

Air conditioning might seem like the most obvious solution but is it the best way to keep a conservatory cool? To find out, I asked the experts.

Is conservatory air conditioning a good idea?

While air conditioning was rarely found in UK homes in the past, it is now becoming a more common feature – due, in part, to domestic units now being more widely available and affordable as well as the fact that temperatures are on the rise. But how do they perform in a conservatory?

'It really depends on the space and how it’s built,' picks up Martyn Fowler, founder of Elite Renewables. 'Conservatories are one of the hardest areas of a house to control temperature in because of the amount of glazing. In summer they heat up very quickly and in winter heat loss is an issue.

'If you use the space regularly then an air conditioning unit can make it far more usable during hot weather,' continues Martyn. 'Some modern units can also provide cooling and heating, so they help in winter as well. The key thing is that the unit needs to be sized correctly. If the system is too small it will struggle to keep up with the heat gain from the glass.'

'Using air conditioning in a conservatory may help to keep things cooler in summer but the size of the unit versus the area you are trying to keep cool will need calculating for full effect,' agrees Terry Hill, MD of KLG Rutland. 'If the conservatory is actually south facing, then even a top-of the-range-system might struggle.'

What type of air conditioning is best for a conservatory?

There are several different types of air conditioning and what works for one home might be quite different to the best solution for another. In conservatories, however, extra care needs to go into choosing the best system if you want this to be a worthwhile investment.

'A key thing to consider is that conservatories are less energy efficient because they are not insulated,' explains Tom Houlker, air conditioning expert and director of HoulkAir. 'This means that a higher power supply, or BTUs, is needed to control the room's temperature. The higher the required power supply, the higher the price of a unit.'

Power aside, for most people, the decision comes down to portable vs wall-mounted air conditioning – so which is best?

'Portable units are fine for occasional use, but they are not ideal for conservatories that get very hot,' explains Martyn Fowler. 'They tend to be noisy and less efficient. You also need a hose vented through a window, which lets warm air back in.'

'Portable units and standing fans are less expensive and are functional alternatives, but they take up valuable room and are cumbersome,' adds Tom Houlker.

'A wall-mounted split system is usually the better option if you use the room a lot,' advises Martyn Fowler. 'These are quieter and much more effective at dealing with the heat load from large areas of glass.'

Shop portable air conditioners

What is the best way to use air conditioning in a conservatory?

If you decide to go ahead and either install wall-mounted air conditioning or invest in one of the best portable air conditioning units out there, you want to ensure you are getting the most out of it. According to Terry Hill, in many cases, this will mean making a few upgrades to older conservatories.

'To give air conditioning a chance, use heat reflective glass with good thermal resistance for new or refurbished conservatories,' advises Terry. 'To make your conservatory comfortably usable all year round opt for a premium solid tiled roof with heat reflective sky lights.'

'Air conditioning works best when the space is already reasonably well controlled in terms of temperature,' agrees Martyn Fowler. 'If the room is overheating badly, the system will have to work much harder and running costs will be higher.'

Are there other ways to keep a conservatory cool without air conditioning?

Of course air conditioning is just one way of keeping a conservatory cool – there are lots of other methods that work really well too. In fact, Martyn Fowler suggests trying these before parting with any money.

'I would look at shading and ventilation before installing air conditioning,' says Martyn. 'If the sun is hitting the glass all day, the room will overheat no matter what cooling system you use. Conservatory blinds, solar control film or roof shading can reduce the heat load significantly and make any cooling system you do invest in more effective.

'Opening roof vents and windows on opposite sides, or fitting a small extractor fan can also help move hot air out,' continues Martyn. 'Heat builds up high in a conservatory, so ventilation at roof level is very effective.

'It is also worth looking at modernising an old conservatory. Insulation upgrades can help too,' Martyn adds. 'You can replace polycarbonate roofs with insulated tiled systems, which keeps the temperature much more stable all year round. That is a bigger investment though.'

Shop conservatory blinds

FAQs

Does conservatory air conditioning add value to a home?

While conservatories can be the perfect spot to enjoy the best views of your garden, when they are badly designed or have seen better days, they can actually devalue a house. However, with a few upgrades this can change – and air conditioning can help here too.

'Well-designed conservatories can add 5-10% to a home's value, and installing an integrated AC unit can provide 2.5% on top of this,' reveals Tom Houlker. 'Air conditioning units are a great long-term investment to keep your conservatory functional and comfortable all year round.

'While installations are an investment, they quietly add value to your home – and they provide greater comfort in more ways than one. Units can also filter outside particles, keeping the air inside your home cleaner. This is perfect for hay fever sufferers.'

One of the biggest conservatory design mistakes is to overlook the need for proper shading from the sun. It isn't just blinds that can help here though – window films and tints can also make a huge difference.

While the UK government might have scrapped plans to ban selling new gas boilers by 2035, the number of homeowners swapping their boilers for heat pumps is still on the rise thanks to the energy-bill slashing effect they can have on a home.

That said, for all their benefits, heat pumps might not always be the best solution for every household and, let's not forget that even when taking advantage of the government's boiler upgrade scheme, the cost of a heat pump is still pretty significant. I am currently mulling over the idea of installing one myself as part of the alterations we are planning on making to our home but am hesitant due to the fact that our old Edwardian cottage is pretty energy inefficient.

If, like me, you are still on the fence about whether a heat pump is right for your home, I am here to help. I asked some leading experts in the field to explain the questions you need to be asking before making this important decision – here's what they had to say.

Is a heat pump right for you?

This is a question I have been asking myself lately. We currently have an electric boiler for our heating and hot water as we live rurally with no gas connection. Our house is also pretty poorly insulated and draughty – in short, a lot of heat loss goes on here. For this reason, I kind of assumed a heat pump would be a bit of a waste – but is this really the case? Martyn Fowler, founder of Elite Renewables, says not.

'The first thing I’d say is that almost any home can have a heat pump if it’s designed properly. We’ve installed systems in everything from large country homes with huge footprints to compact Victorian terraces,' says Martyn. 'The difference is always in the design not the property type. The real question is, has your home been properly assessed?'

Given that my home has not, in fact, been assessed, I was really keen to find out what questions I should be asking before making a decision on this.

1. How well insulated is my home?

First up, it is important to look at how your home is currently performing in terms energy efficiency – and particularly at how well insulated it is.

'This is very important because heat pumps, especially air source heat pumps, work best when they're making heat at slightly lower temperatures, like 35°C to 55°C, for longer amounts of time,' explains Sean Hogan, founder of Aventus Eco. 'That lower-temperature heat will leave your home too fast if it isn't well sealed and has a lot of leaks, making it hard for the heat pump to keep the house warm. Your running costs will go up because of that battle, and you won't be as comfy either. That's why we always say: put up insulation first, then fit the heat pump.

'You should think about your loft insulation, those empty walls, your floor, and even draught proofing,' continues Sean. 'If you put money into good insulation up front, your home will need a lot less heat. This lets a smaller, more efficient heat pump work at its best, which keeps the costs of running it low. Putting in good insulation first is often a better use of money than trying to make up for it with a larger heat pump.'

'It’s a myth that your home has to be perfectly insulated for a heat pump to work. But if your home loses heat easily, you’ll need a bigger, more expensive heat pump, which can be louder, less comfortable and may not save you that much money,' points out Becky Lane, CEO of Furbnow. 'Heat pumps work best in homes with good insulation, usually with an EPC rating of a strong C or above.'

2. What heat emitters do I have at the moment?

Next up you need to assess the way you are currently heating your home and think about how your heat emitters – radiators, underfloor heating and so on – are going to get on with a heat pump.

'Because heat pumps run cooler, you need more surface area to get the same heat output,' explains Jack Allen, MD and founder at Building Energy Experts. 'Are your current radiators large enough? You may need to swap single-panel radiators for double or triple panels (K2 or K3 types) or install underfloor heating.'

'Your radiators need to be able to put out enough heat at those lower temperatures that heat pumps work at for them to really work,' picks up Sean Hogan. 'This usually means that your old radiators will need to be bigger than they would for a gas boiler, or you might need to get new, high-output models.

'Underfloor heating works well with low flow rates, which makes it a brilliant choice for a heat pump system,' continues Sean. 'This is a useful point because you may need to replace some or all of your radiators, which will naturally raise the cost of the work as a whole. A good contractor will always do a full room-by-room heat loss estimate to make sure that your new or old radiators are the right size for your heat pump system. We've found that existing, bigger radiators can work really well in some older UK homes.'

3. Do I have enough space for a heat pump?

This is a really important question to ask – heat pumps take up space and if you don't have anywhere to put one you are going to struggle. A great big heat pump stuck to the outside of a house rarely does anything to add kerb appeal and this has been something that has put me off the idea a little, although there are ways of hiding a heat pump.

'Air source heat pumps need a box outside that looks a bit like an air conditioner,' explains Sean Hogan. 'This unit needs to be put in a stable place with good airflow, preferably away from bedrooms to keep noise to a minimum (though modern units are very quiet these days), and there needs to be enough room for installation and future upkeep too.'

It isn't just outside of your house that you need to consider space requirements for either.

'Inside your home, you’ll usually need room for a hot water cylinder – about the size of a large fridge-freezer – often in an airing cupboard or utility room,' advises Becky Lane. 'You’ll also need pipework running from the heat pump to that cylinder, which can mean lifting floors or working behind kitchen units. In many Victorian and Edwardian homes, that can be quite disruptive for what might only be small savings. Get a home energy plan, so you can understand which steps and renovations are needed before you can actually turn on your heat pump.'

4. Will a heat pump save me money on energy bills?

For many people, the biggest factor that influences their decision when it comes to installing a heat pump is cost.

'Installation can range from around £8,000 to £15,000 depending on the property and what upgrades are needed,' says Martyn Fowler. 'The Boiler Upgrade Scheme currently provides £7,500 towards it. I always encourage homeowners to think long term. A properly installed heat pump gives you stable running costs and protection against future gas price volatility.'

'While the Boiler Upgrade Scheme can save you money, homeowners still need to think carefully about total costs. If your home isn’t well insulated you might need an oversized heat pump and also new radiators, a hot water cylinder and extensive pipework. That can mean paying £10,000 to £15,000 yourself,' points out Becky Lane. 'You need to think, over time, will the money you save on your energy bills cover the cost of installing a heat pump? In a poorly insulated home, it might not.

'With good insulation, space outside, and room indoors for a cylinder, you could save close to £400 a year, especially if you’re on a tariff with cheaper off-peak electricity,' adds Becky. 'The key is knowing whether your home is heat pump ready.'

There are a few providers who offer energy tariffs specifically designed for those with heat pumps, such as British Gas, E.On Next and Octopus, which can help to maximise any ongoing savings.

5. Will I be happy with a lower, slower heat source?

It is important to be aware that living with a heat pump is very different from living with a boiler – and you need to think about whether you are ready for the shift.

'Gas boilers are reactive – you turn them on, and the house gets hot quickly. Heat pumps are 'steady-state' meaning they work best when left running in the background to maintain a constant temperature,' explains Jack Allen. 'You need to ask yourself, is my lifestyle suited to constant heating, or do I need instant heat?'

In short, if you love the fact that your gas boiler allows you to flick a switch and enjoy instant heat from your radiators, it may take time to adjust to the slower, steadier warmth that a heat pump offers, although if you already have underfloor heating, you are likely to be used to this.

6. Is your pipework capable of handling a heat pump?

If you live in an older property or are carrying out the renovation of one, switching from a gas boiler to a heat pump can be more complex and along with insulation upgrades you will also need to consider your current distribution system.

'Do you have 'microbore' pipework? Many UK homes built in the 80s and 90s use these narrow 8mm or 10mm pipes,' explains Jack Allen. 'These can struggle with the higher flow rates a heat pump requires, potentially needing a full re-pipe which significantly increases installation costs.'

According to Martyn Fowler, you often won't know if your pipework is up to scratch until you have had your home properly assessed.

'You need a full heat loss calculation. That tells you how much heat your home actually needs on the coldest day of the year. Once you have that, you size the heat pump correctly and design the distribution system around it,' explains Martyn. 'That might mean upgrading some radiators, improving insulation in key areas, or adjusting pipework. When the system is designed properly, the performance follows.'

7. What are your long-term goals?

And, finally, you really need to think through your reasons for wanting to install a heat pump – basically, what are your expectations?

'It's worth asking yourself: what is my current energy consumption, and what are my long-term goals for energy saving and independence, as well as reducing my carbon footprint?' says Sean Hogan. 'Even though a heat pump may cost more up front than a regular boiler, it will save you a lot of money in the long run compared to fossil fuel heaters. At a time when fossil fuel prices are still very unstable and our power grid is becoming 'greener' this is even more important.

'It makes sense to get a heat pump if you want to become truly energy independent and lower your carbon footprint. You could even combine it with other renewable energy sources like solar PV and battery storage,' continues Sean. 'Figuring out why you're doing this is a big part of weighing the original cost against the long-term financial and environmental rewards.'

FAQs

Where might a heat pump not be a suitable option?

While all the experts agreed that heat pumps were a brilliant option for most types of home, there are cases where installing one just might not be worth it.

'While we are advocates for electrification, we often advise clients against heat pumps in the following scenarios until remedial works are done,' says Jack Allen.

• The 'leaky bucket' home: If you have solid walls with no insulation and single glazing, a heat pump will likely cost more to run than a gas boiler. You are effectively trying to fill a leaky bucket; you need to plug the holes (insulation/airtightness) before you change the tap (the heating system).
• Flats with no outdoor space: If you are in a flat with no outdoor space, finding a compliant location for the external unit can be impossible due to planning permission and noise distance regulations.
• Homes with microbore pipework: As mentioned above, if ripping up floors to replace 10mm piping is too disruptive or expensive, a high-temperature heat pump or a hybrid system might be the only viable option.

'In the end, the best way to know for sure if a heat pump is right for your home is to have an MCS-certified heat pump provider do a skilled, in-depth study and heat loss estimate,' concludes Sean Hogan. 'They can look at the unique features of your home and give you help that fits your needs, so you can make an informed choice.'

If you have come to the conclusion that a heat pump won't suit your home, don't be disheartened – there are many other types of heating systems out there to choose from.

Whether you already have a log burner, or are considering getting one, being up to date on the rules appliances like this is a good idea.

After all, there have been rumours of a woodburning stove ban doing the rounds, which can understandable make people nervous, especially if they have gone to the expense of having one installed in their home.

And woodburning stoves are in the news again, with reports of rule changes. So what's the truth and how could it impact you? This is what you need to know.

Have rules around log burners changed?

While log burners aren't going to be banned, and there is no significant rule change right now, future changes may be afoot as the Government focuses on improving air quality as part of its Environmental Improvement Plan 2025.

In its plan, the government states: 'Air quality in the UK has improved significantly in recent decades and overall, the air we breathe today is cleaner than at any time since before the industrial revolution. These improvements have delivered significant benefits for our health, environment and economy.

'However, despite these improvements, air pollution remains one of the biggest environmental threats to human health and continues to cause damage to the environment. Long-term exposure to air pollution can cause heart and lung disease, cancer and other health problems. Low-income communities disproportionately feel these health impacts, exacerbating health and social inequalities.'

In order to help combat this, the government has been consulting on how it can reduce harmful emissions from domestic burning.

The consultation sets out proposals to reduce emissions from domestic burning through three main avenues:

• Stricter emission limits for new stoves – introducing tougher smoke emission standards for new appliances
• Mandatory labelling for stoves and fuels – providing clear information on emissions, permitted fuels, and health impacts to help consumers make informed choices. 
• Increased enforcement penalties – raising penalties for suppliers who breach fuel standards to ensure compliance. 

'The government is focused on improving air quality and will consult this year on ways to cut emissions, recognising that some households rely on log burners,' says Barry Cope , CEO of HETAS.

What do the proposed changes mean for homeowners?

The good news is that these proposed changes, expected to come into force in 2027, won't need you to do anything differently. Instead the onus will largely be on log burner manufacturers and retailers.

If you don't yet have a log burner, but are thinking of buying one, then these proposed changes will mean it'll become easier to understand the emissions, and potential health impact, plus the fuels you are allowed to burn in each burner you look at.

Proposals as part of the government consultation want to tighten smoke emissions limits for new stoves from 5g/hr to 1g/hr (plus 0.1g per 0.3 kW heat output) for new stoves entering the market.

Industry testing data suggests that 70% of stoves tested since 2018 already meet this new standard, especially when Ecodesign rules state that wood burning stoves should emit no more than 3 grams of smoke per hour. 'Since 2022, wood burning stoves must be Ecodesign compliant, so all new stoves now meet strict UK and EU standards for cleaner burning and lower emissions,' says Phil Wood, UK Managing Director of Swedish stove manufacturer, Contura.

For those who already have a log burner, and are worried that it won't meet new guidelines, then fear not. There are no plans to force people to rip out existing log burners in their homes.

However, with cleaner burning, and therefore healthier, appliances available, you may choose to upgrade to a safer model with lower emissions.

To avoid smoke emissions altogether, you could opt for this electric heater that looks just like a log burner.

When we moved into our house almost three years ago, there was a list as long as your arm of things we had to do to make it suitable for modern living. From a new roof and insulation to a new layout and upgraded wiring and plumbing — I included everything I could think of from my years of working in homes journalism and previous experience renovating. One thing that we knew we had to do from day one was replace the oil boiler that we estimated to be at least 30 years old.

Every time my Mum visits she mentions the smell of oil in the house, plus the inefficient boiler breaks down every six months or so. So it's definitely time for it to go. So I started to research our options.

Ideally, we would prefer not to use oil anymore for the same reasons we wouldn’t consider installing gas (not that it’s an option in our village anyway!). One option that seemed to tick every box was a heat pump, specifically an air source heap pump, but as I dug deeper, it turned out it wouldn't be as suitable as I thought. Here's why.

Why a heat pump wouldn’t work in our house

After getting multiple quotes on how much a heat pump would cost from various heat pump providers, it was only when someone actually came to my house for the heat loss assessment that I really came to terms with the difficulties of installing a heat pump in our home. In my mind, the heat pump was going to go just outside the bathroom and utility room, as well as being cost-effective and simple to install. But sadly that wasn't to be the case.

Firstly, our house is in a conservation area and there are restrictions on what can and can’t be installed on the front elevation without planning permission so that meant were relegated to the back of the house when it came to installation points. (If you don't live in a designated zone like I do, installing a heat pump may actually be one of those home improvements that doesn't require planning permission, but you should always check with your local authority).

Next, we have a very narrow walkway running down the back of the house with the external wall opposite a retaining wall for a section of the garden. When the assessor came, he indicated that because of the size of the house (~180m2) we would need a larger heat pump than I had imagined. This would leave us with just 60cm of walkway space. I also hadn’t anticipated that best practice with heat pumps is to have them set away from the wall by 10-15cm, further reducing our access to a measly 50-45cm.

One option was to reduce the size of the retaining wall for the garden, and another was to install the heat pump where the oil tank currently stands and dig out a trench for the required connections to the hot water tank. Both would vastly increase the cost of the heat pump, completely negating the cost benefits with the Boiler Upgrade Scheme discounts that made it so appealing

That means we were back to square one and in still desperate need of replacing our boiler. So what are our options now?

What heap pump alternatives could we choose?

Now that I know a heat pump wouldn't work in my home, I need to go back to the drawing board. From my research, I have three feasible options to choose from.

1. Another oil boiler

The simplest option for us would be to replace like-for-like with a new oil combi boiler. I’m pretty sure anything would be more efficient than our current 30-year-old model. In the last three decades there have been huge improvements in the condensing technologies that our boiler relied on.

However, despite the planned 2026 ban on new oil boilers, similar to the gas boiler ban, being delayed until 2035, there is obviously an issue with burning fossil fuels in our homes.

I can foresee that the costs of oil instability getting progressively worse, meaning our savings in the long-run wouldn’t be as incentivising. Moreover, making our home more environmentally friendly was one of the major benefits of installing a heat pump in the first place and I feel guilty every time I order an oil delivery.

2. Electric boiler

Not only would the next possibility, an electric boiler, be quieter to run, it would also remove the chance of oil smells in the utility and reduce our dependence on fossil fuels (to a degree, as electricity often comes from fossil fuels). Plus, it would be installed in the same place as our current boiler with minimal fuss.

However, it may well be more expensive to run than our current oil boiler, despite a cheaper initial installation cost, and it won’t work during power cuts (something we, for some reason, get fairly frequently in our area).

We spent £1,066 for 1,500l of oil last year and with the current price of electricity being around 27p, it would cost at least double per year to heat our four-bed house. Generally speaking, electric boilers are considered to be more cost-effective in smaller properties than ours.

3. Biomass boiler

My favourite option and the one we’re most likely going to choose is a biomass boiler. My old boss installed one in his house and at the time it sounded really counter-intuitive. They work by burning wood pellets or similar fuel, and in my head I very much conflated them with old-fashioned woodburning stoves and the negativities surrounding the emissions. However, after a little digging, it seems the particulate filters on biomass boilers mean they actually cause very little air pollution.

My research says a biomass boiler would suit a house our size better than an electric boiler, and it means we would be less dependent on fossil fuels. It's also a much more environmentally friendly option than either of the other two choices we were facing.

While they are more expensive than either oil or gas boilers, they’re eligible through the Boiler Upgrade Scheme, although the discount is not as much as for a heat pump. Approximate running costs for the biomass boiler we'd go for seems to be around £800-900 per year, depending on usage, which would be a saving for us.

The only draw back for us is the space required, both for the boiler and hopper system, and for the pellet/fuel storage.

So plenty for my partner and I to think about, and I'll be sure to fill you in on the option we end up going with. In the meantime, I've been sharing more tips from our renovation, from how I fixed our draughty front door in just five minutes to the instant benefits we felt from upgrading from single to double glazing.

The rumour mill has been buzzing with talk that woodburning stoves are going to be banned in the UK. But is there any truth to the gossip?

Woodburning stoves are hugely popular with those who enjoy the unmatched cosy atmosphere they create. But when you consider the sizeable cost of installing a woodburning stove, whispers of an imminent ban are enough to make anyone pause for thought.

To clear things up, I spoke to the experts to find out if a ban was coming, and whether log burner rules are changing, where the rumours came from, and what you should do if you are planning on getting a woodburning stove, or if there is anything you should do differently if you already have one.

Are woodburning stoves going to be banned in the UK?

The good news is rumours of a woodburning stove ban in the UK are not true.

'There are no plans to ban wood burners in the UK – just a continued shift to cleaner burning, where responsible stove owners are part of the solution as domestic combustion emissions continue to fall and targets are tightened,' explains Barry Cope , CEO of HETAS. 'The government is focused on improving air quality and will consult this year on ways to cut emissions, recognising that some households rely on log burners.'

So if it's not true, where have these rumours come from? 'Headlines following Labour’s revised Environmental Improvement Plan 2025 have caused some rumours, where tougher targets for air quality have been confused with a ban on wood burners,' explains Barry.

'In reality, no bans have been announced. The government will be holding a consultation with industry professionals this year to plan how emissions can be further reduced as a first step. Other areas, such as transport and industrial emissions, are also highlighted in the new Plan, and officials from Defra have ruled out geographical bans or the removal of existing log burners in homes.'

What should a homeowner know if they are planning on installing a woodburning stove in 2026?

If you are planning on installing a woodburning stove this year, then beyond determining what size log burner you need, you need to choose the right type of appliance too. 'Looking for a Cleaner Choice-certified stove is an important first step,' says Barry. 'These stoves already emit at least 50% less particulate emissions than UK smoke control area limits, so you'll minimise emissions* and choose an appliance that’s future proofed.'

You'll also need to understand the log burner building regulations you'll need to meet. These cover crucial safety and ventilation requirements.

'Finding a professional, such as a HETAS Registered Installer, to fit your appliance is the next vital step,' explains Barry, 'they will make sure it is safely installed and that all building regulations are followed.'

'If you are in a smoke controlled area, you must use a DEFRA approved stove,' adds Joanna Humphreys, Fire and Stove Specialist at Direct Stoves. 'These are stoves that have been tested to ensure they produce minimal levels of smoke. You also need to ensure that your firewood is dry and seasoned. You must not burn any household waste, such as old furniture, pallets or fencing, as these are likely to be treated with chemicals that can release toxins when burnt. The firewood you use should also have a moisture content of 20% or less to prevent excessive smoke.'

Make sure you also read our guide to the types of wood you should never burn in a log burner.

Should someone who has a woodburning stove be doing anything differently?

If you already have a woodburning stove, then the advice is to continue to use the right fuels and keep up with regular maintenance. 'Burning safely is simple: use Ready to Burn fuels, follow the manufacturer’s instructions, and book regular sweeping and servicing are just a few easy ways to keep your stove’s heat high and your emissions minimised,' says Barry.

However, if you've had your burner for more than a decade, and upgrade may be needed to ensure it remains compliant with the current regulations and guidance.

'f you have a wood burning stove which is more than 10 years old, it’s worth upgrading it to a model which is Ecodesign Ready as your old model doesn’t have the new, innovative technology installed to help lower emissions,' explains Jon Butterworth, Director at Arada Stoves. 'Replacing old models can reduce emissions by nearly 45%. From January 2022, all new models need to meet this criteria as its aim is to reduce the impact home heating appliances have on the environment with stricter guidelines concerning efficiency levels and emissions in order to improve air quality.'

While you're researching the wood burner ideas that would best suit your home and budget, heed this advice from someone who has one as to what they wish they knew before they installed their log burner.

I had a new boiler installed by BOXT in my three-bedroom home to set me up for the winter months, and I reviewed the whole process to help you decide if it’s the right route for you.

And while the idea of replacing my old and inefficient boiler filled me with dread, I shouldn’t have been concerned. The whole process was quick, easy, and extremely professional. This is everything you need to know.

In a nutshell

I’ve known for a couple of years that our old, inefficient boiler would need to be replaced in the near future, but the hassle associated with it had always put me off. But when our Renovation and Home Energy Editor, Sarah, had great things to say about BOXT after having BOXT air conditioning installed in her home over the summer, I figured they’d be a good bet — and they were.

The process is quick and simple: all you need to do is answer a few questions on the website to find a variety of boilers that suit your home and needs. You can feel confident that your fixed-price installation quote won’t change if you need time to weigh up your decision — and if you choose to go ahead, you can book your installation as early as the next day.

From my experience, there’s very limited input on your part. All you need to do is upload photos of your current boiler and setup to the app or through email, (you'll be given clear instructions of exactly what pictures are required), and the dedicated team of BOXT boiler engineers will make sure your choices are suitable and won’t require any extra work or hit any snags along the way. This is ideal if you're really not sure about the ins and outs of boiler replacement, as the BOXT team are there as a safety net.

When it’s all done, you can keep track of all of your information and certificates on the app, while having constant communication with BOXT and their team. The one-year workmanship guarantee on all installations, coupled with the manufacturer’s warranty (which can be up to 12 years, depending on the product), also helps you rest easy. I know I have been, and I wish I’d done it sooner.

Ordering the BOXT boiler

As someone with limited knowledge of boilers and not a lot of time to spare, I really appreciated how simple it was to get a boiler quote with BOXT. The online tool guided me through the whole process, asking me simple questions such as whether I’m a homeowner or landlord, the type of fuel my current boiler uses, what type of boiler I have, and general questions about the rooms and radiators in my house.

Then, things got a little more technical. The online tool asked me where my flue comes out, how far the current boiler is from my outside wall, how close my flue is to the ground, and whether my flue is 30cm or more from a door or window. This required some more input on my part, as I had to double-check and measure these distances.

I was worried I would do this wrong, but there were helpful prompts on the screen to guide me through the process. I’d later learn that BOXT would also require photographic evidence of the information I’d supplied, in order to help their team of dedicated engineers get the lay of the land and determine whether my current setup met current legislation and guidelines (spoiler alert: they didn’t!)

All in all, there were 22 questions to answer. And when I’d submitted all of my responses, I supplied my postcode to give me the dates available for the installation —which can be the next working day if you order by 3pm.

I was then faced with a wide range of boiler options to suit my home and needs, and I must admit I was very impressed with the selection available. However, I was also a little daunted by the options, as a lot of the makes and models didn’t mean a lot to me.

Handily, though, BOXT offers little hints at the top of each option - such as ‘compact model,’ ‘latest model’, and even ones that offer a 0% finance payment plan. The specifications of each option are also clearly stated, from the included warranty to the central heating output and any extras, such as carbon monoxide alarms, fittings, and the included removal of my old boiler. I decided to go for the brand’s bestseller, a Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 25kw

It’s at this stage that you can also bolt on optional extras, such as a fancier thermostat and a MagnaCleanse Flush. These are totally optional, and I didn’t feel as though I was being forced to add them to my booking.

As it was flagged that I live in a hard water area, it was also recommended that I add an in-line scale reducer to my order, which cost me an extra £65. Again, though, this was completely optional, and I was happy to pay the extra as I wanted to make my heating system as efficient as possible.

The booking system also made me aware that current building regulations require every radiator in your home (except one) to have a TRV (thermostatic radiator valve). As my radiators were old and outdated, I also added these for £40 a pop. If you already have TRVs, though, you won’t need to add these on.

Arranging installation

Once you’ve chosen your boiler and any added extras, arranging installation couldn’t be easier. I was greeted with an open calendar listing all available installation dates, and I could have even chosen the following day if I wanted to.

In most cases, choosing a date won’t cost you a penny. On quieter days, you can even get a discounted rate. However, if you choose a weekend, you will need to pay an extra £100. Personally, I went for the next week to give myself time to prepare and chose a Thursday so I wouldn’t have to pay any extra.

Almost immediately after I’d placed the order, I received an email from BOXT asking me to submit pictures to prove the answers I’d provided earlier on were correct. And while you can simply send these pictures via email, I decided to download the app to make the process even easier — and it was seamless.

I was a little worried about the pictures, not knowing exactly what they needed to see, but BOXT made this easy by providing helpful examples and I was assured that the engineers would be in touch if the pictures didn’t meet their requirements.

In my case, I needed to send them evidence of:

• The boiler, including the area above and below it
• The existing controls
• The flue exit
• The front of my house
• My gas meter
• The pipes underneath or above my boiler

During this stage, BOXT stresses that their technical team must review these pictures by 3pm on the working day before the installation. If you don’t send them in time, they might have to reschedule, and you may be charged.

A few days after this, I received a phone call from one of the BOXT engineers, confirming that my pictures provided all the information they needed and that the boiler I’d chosen would be a suitable fit for the space and my home in general.

I was also given more information about the boiler engineer that would be coming on the day, as well as the general running order of the day — in terms of when the boiler would be delivered (it arrives between 7:30 and 9:30 am on the morning of the installation via courier), when the engineer would arrive, and how long it would roughly take.

He also explained any potential problems that could arise during the day, like having to replace the gas pipe running to my home, but stated that this would come at no extra cost to me if that was the case. Luckily, it wasn’t!

All in all, the ordering and booking process couldn’t have been simpler, and I was really impressed with BOXT's communication. I even received text messages and emails the day before and the morning of the installation to confirm everything.

What was the installation process like?

As my boiler cupboard sits behind my sofa in the living room and is used to store all kinds of junk, I spent some time clearing the area around the boiler — and the contents of the cupboard — the night before the installation. This was to ensure the engineer, Kevin, would be able to get cracking as soon as he arrived.

The morning of the installation, the engineer and the boiler arrived separately. As per his text message the night before, Kevin arrived at 8am on the dot and immediately introduced himself. In his hands, he had protective floor coverings, which he put down before he set foot in my house. He then covered the entire area from the front door to the boiler cupboard to keep my floors clean.

He then explained everything he would be doing throughout the day, and was more than happy to answer any questions I had about the process. And while Kevin works for BOXT as a contractor, I felt confident in his ability and his professionalism, as all of BOXT’s installers are vetted and audited to ensure they adhere to the company’s high standards.

The new boiler then arrived by courier at 8:30, and the engineer explained that my old boiler and all the packaging from the new boiler would be picked up later in the day, so I wouldn’t have to dispose of anything myself. This was a huge relief, as I wouldn’t even know where to begin with disposing of an old boiler.

Over the next few hours, I largely left Kevin to it — not wanting to get in his way, but making him a cup of tea every so often and ensuring his supply of biscuits was readily available. But whenever he had to do anything that would affect me, like turning the water off for a few hours or switching the power off, which left me without internet — he always gave me advance notice. This meant I could go to the toilet one last time, get a few glasses of water prepped, and make sure the work on my computer, since I work from home, was saved.

As I was simply replacing an old boiler with a new one, the installation process was straightforward. Kevin worked hard for a full day and thankfully didn’t encounter any problems along the way. However, if you want to move your boiler, replace the type of boiler, or have a gas line replaced, it may take longer than that.

Before Kevin left, he gave me a complete rundown of what he’d done and the changes he’d had to make to our setup to make it regulation-compliant. This included a new carbon monoxide alarm placed a certain distance and height away from the boiler (and not just plopped on top of the boiler as it had been before), insulation around the condense pipe outside, and placing a cage around the flue due to its close proximity to the ground and our neighbours.

He also spent a good 30-45 minutes running through the new boiler and central heating controls with my husband and I. He explained the on-screen boiler controls, what to do in the event of any problems, and how to use the thermostat. He even took the time to set up our thermostatic controls to suit our needs, so we haven’t had to change anything since.

When he left, the house was just as clean as when he arrived, and he made sure to take all his rubbish with him. He also told me to keep an eye on the app, where I could see my warranty and view all my job certificates and information, like the Gas Safety Certificate, the workmanship guarantee, and even the user manuals for my new boiler and thermostat.

This is a nice touch, as this means that I don’t have to store (and potentially lose) hard copies of these. By having them in an app, I can have them to hand at all times and print them off if needed.

It’s worth noting that, throughout the process, the engineer had to take photos of his work to prove to BOXT auditors that everything had been completed to their exacting standards. About a week after the installation, I was contacted by a BOXT auditor named Sean to arrange a quick 30-minute visit to check something that had come up during the audit — but fortunately, it turned out to be an issue with an unclear photo rather than a problem with the work itself.

Nevertheless, having both the BOXT-approved engineer and a BOXT auditor verify that the work was correct and safe left me extremely confident in the process.

What’s the boiler like to use?

As I write this, I’ve been living with my boiler for a couple of weeks now. And while I didn’t think it would make that much of a difference to my central heating system, the impact was obvious.

In fact, after our first couple of showers with the new boiler, my husband and I had to change our water temperature as it was just too hot - despite the fact that it was set to the same temperature our old boiler had been set at. This was a great sign, though, as it proved that this new boiler was more efficient.

It’s also obvious that our heating system heats up faster, and the addition of the TRVs means that we can now adjust each radiator’s temperature accordingly to help save some pennies.

In the long run, I also expect a more efficient boiler to cut our energy bills further, and BOXT now has a boiler savings calculator — an interactive tool that shows how much you can save by upgrading your boiler based on your property type and the age of your current boiler.

Based on my old setup vs my new setup, I should be saving almost £10 a month on my energy bills — so I can’t wait to see that pay off, quite literally!

Is a BOXT boiler installation worth it?

I put off buying a new boiler for a long time because I thought the process would be stressful and complicated, but having BOXT on hand to handle everything made it seamless. For anyone looking to upgrade their boiler, I couldn’t recommend them highly enough.

Choosing the perfect boiler for my home took no more than 20 minutes, booking slots are wide open (even for the next day), and the installation couldn’t have been easier. The engineer and everyone I spoke to from BOXT were also extremely knowledgeable and kept me up to date on every step of the way, and I feel confident that the replacement adheres to legal requirements and is the right choice for my home.

Of course, you do need to make sure that you can dedicate at least a day to being home and allowing the engineer to do what they need to do — but that’s just part and parcel of having a new boiler installed.

If you're seeing signs you boiler needs replacing, then definitely check out BOXT's offering.

With the first frost on its way, now is the time to think about lighting your first fire of the winter. While you can burn more than just wood in a multi-fuel stove, this doesn't mean that you can burn everything.

Just like with wood-burning stove, burning the wrong fuel in your multi-fuel stove can have catastrophic effects, including: starting a chimney or roof fire; poisoning your family and pets; or inadvertently breaking the law. You could be fined up to £1,000 for burning the wrong thing.

To help, we've asked the experts for their guidance on what you can and can't burn in a multi-fuel stove, including the less obvious things you should never burn.

What can I burn on a multi-fuel stove?

As their name suggests, you can burn more than just wood logs on a multifuel stove. Options include briquettes, smokeless coal, and manufactured logs (typically made from waste wood or coffee grounds).

This means you have greater flexibility in your fuel type and are able to pivot in response to sales or discounts – making it more affordable to heat your home. However, as with anything, sometimes it's easier to know what not to burn and what to use instead with these types of burners, so you don't put a foot wrong.

What you should never burn in a multi-fuel stove

1. Paper

Newspaper is often heralded as a good alternative to firelighters, and this can work if you're in a pinch and trying to keep your house warm in the winter. However, you should keep the quantities to a minimum and only apply them to black-and-white printed newspapers. 'As tempting as it can be to throw an old newspaper on the stove, both cause soot and blacken the glass in your stove, meaning you won’t be able to enjoy watching the flames and will have more cleaning to do at the end of the season,' explains Phil Wood, UK managing director of Contura, advises against it.

Any colour printed paper should be avoided due to the chemicals and fumes released when the ink burns. 'Magazines, catalogues, and some junk mail contain chemicals that can release toxic fumes when burned. Gift wrap, construction paper, and coloured cardboard in particular often contain heavy metals in their dyes,' explains experts from Firewood Fund. 'Burning these can release toxic substances into the air.'

You should never burn large quantities of paper – news or otherwise – in your multifuel stove. 'Paper burns very quickly and can create intense, erratic flames. This can cause the stove to overheat, potentially damaging the appliance or even starting a fire in your home,' says experts from Burn Firewood. It can also cause a buildup of creosote in your chimney, which in turn increases your risk of a chimney fire.

To ensure you always have a firelighter to hand, buy in bulk. This box of 200 wood wool firelighters from Amazon is more than enough to see you through the winter.

2. Pallets

Pallets can seem like an easy and cost-effective fuel source for a stove –they are often readily available for free on sites like Freecycle.

However, many pallets – those marked MB – are treated with methyl bromide to prevent decay and infestations. When burned, methyl bromide produces highly toxic fumes which will be released into your living room and potentially seriously harm your family. The fumes will also be released into the atmosphere through the chimney, causing more environmental damage.

Some pallets are heat-treated or kiln-dried rather than being treated with methyl bromide, but these should also not be burned indoors, as you don't know what other chemicals they have come into contact with.

'Wooden pallets that are contaminated in any way, whether with paint, dirt, oil, or other unknown substances, should not be burned, as anything on the wood could be released into the air as it burns,' advises experts from Alpha Pallets.

Even if you can confirm that the wood is completely unaffected, it still doesn't make good firewood, and you shouldn't burn this type of wood in a woodburner or a multi-fuel stove. 'Pallet wood is very dry and smaller than typical firewood, meaning that any fire made using wood from pallets will burn big and hot – not what you want in an indoor fireplace. It also burns fast, so the fire will burn out quickly and need regular refilling, so you may need more wood than you expect to supply your fire,' explains experts from Alpha Pallets.

For a more cost-effective alternative, consider purchasing briquettes, like these from Lekto on Amazon – which have an 8-hour burn compared to the four hours of traditional logs. You could then put your pallets to good use and create pallet garden furniture.

3. Wet wood

Wet wood is one of the types of wood you should never use in a wood burner – and this also applies to a multi-fuel stove.

'It’s important to burn only dry wood. If wet wood is used, the smoke produced will increase maintenance and repair needs, making it harder for chimney sweeps to keep your installation in a safe, effective condition,' explains Douglas Kent, technical and research director at the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings. Burning wet wood can also increase your risk of chimney fires.

There is also an environmental cost to burning wet wood. 'Burning dry wood is also part of the solution to reducing the environmental impact of solid-fuel heating. Small retail bags of firewood logs can contain wet wood, so they are unsuitable for burning without further seasoning,' adds Douglas.

When buying logs, look for the 'Ready to Burn' logo – like these from Amazon – to ensure that they are a suitable fuel for your multi-fuel stove. ‘Using kiln-dried wood or wood with a moisture content below 20 per cent will generate the correct heat and the best flame, ensuring maximum efficiency and minimising smoke,' advises Phil Wood, UK managing director of Contura.

Always test your wood before use – a moisture meter, like this from Amazon, is an easy and cost-effective way to ensure that your wood is always dry enough to burn.

4. House coal

Go back 60 years, and coal would've been the go-to fuel for heating our homes. However, since 2023, it has been illegal to sell house coal for use in the home. This is due to concerns about the pollution it produces and the negative health implications. If you live in a smoke control area and burn house coal, you could see yourself fined £300 for emitting too much smoke.

House coal is likely too difficult to source, but it is always worth double-checking that any coal you buy is classed as Smokeless Coal – like this from Amazon – which has been deemed safe to use.

You should never burn any coal in a wood burner – coal should only be burnt in multi-fuel designs.

5. Polished, treated, painted or varnished wood

Any wood that has been treated or coated with chemicals should never be burnt. This includes waste furniture, MDF, laminate, particle board and any form of composite wood. This is because the chemical coats or glues used in the construction of these products can release toxic fumes when burnt.

Like printed paper and pallet wood, they also burn unreliably and will create a lot of smoke, increasing your risk of chimney fires.

a multi-fuel stove is a joy to have on a cold winters day when used correctly, just make sure you're taking care to only use the correct fuel in it.

If you're thinking about adding a woodburning stove to your home this winter, it's important you understand what size log burner you need to create the ultimate cosy environment.

There's a lot to consider when choosing a woodburning stove, including what kind of ventilation a log burner needs, plus the log burner building regulations you'll need to meet. But having the right size log burner is crucial. Too big and you'll overheat quickly, too small and it won't warm your space adequately.

I spoke to the stove experts to find out how you determine the right size burner for your space.

What size log burner do I need?

There are multiple reliable options to determine what size log burner is right for your home. More than the physical dimensions of the stove itself, the optimum size will come down to the appliance's heat output.

• Use a stove calculator. 'To find the best size for the space, look for a fire supplier that offers a stove calculator,' says Joanna Humphreys, Fire and Stove Specialist at Direct Stoves. 'You simply put in your room’s measurements and insulation type to find out what size log burner is best for the space.'
• Ask a reputable expert. Before you buy a woodburning stove, it's a good idea to shop around, especially in person. When you do, don't be afraid to take a list of questions to put to the showroom experts. They'll be more than happy to help you choose the right size and design for your home.
• Do your own calculation. To get an idea of the size burner you need, you can do a relatively simple calculation yourself. This is especially useful if you are looking to get a sense of how much your log burner will cost. 'Be sure to measure your room's dimensions and consider the insulation level, such as if you have carpet and double-glazed windows,' says Jon Butterworth, Director at Arada Stoves. 'To give you a starting point for finding the right stove output simply measure the room volume (width x length x height) in metres and divide the result by 14. This will give you a rough guide to the ideal kW output needed for that room.'

'Roughly you need around 1kw for 14 cubic metres,' adds Brian Athey, MD at Carron Stoves. 'This is based on average insulation, so you might need to consider adjusting this if you have excellent or poor insulation. (+/- 10% accordingly).'

Can a wood burner be too big?

It is definitely possible to choose a log burner that is too big for your home.

'Often a stove is chosen to match the fireplace, hearth or style of room it is to be fitted in, however the most important factor in choosing the right size stove is getting the right output to ensure you will not be too hot,' explains Jon. 'An oversized stove for example can overheat your space, causing discomfort and even potential fire hazards which we don’t want.'

'Choosing the right appliance is essential for comfort, efficiency and the environment,' adds Simon Bower, Technical Director at Percy Doughty. 'If the appliance is too big, the room can overheat and potentially lead to issues with the building fabric, it may encourage the user to slumber (burning the stove at a low rate for long periods) this can have a negative impact on the installation whole, particularly the chimney system...'

What happens if you choose a log burner that is too small?

Choosing a log burner that is too small has it's own set of downsides. Not only will it prevent you from creating that lovely cosy atmosphere, and leave you chilly. But it can also have a negative impact on both the appliance and your energy bills.

'If the stove is too small, it will fail to deliver the required heat needed,' says Simon. 'It will become costly because you will burn more fuel to compensate for the low heat output, and the stoves lifespan will become significantly reduced given that it will always be operating at its maximum.'

But selecting the correct size log burner can ensure you reap all the benefits and dodge the downsides. 'The aim when choosing any stove is to make sure it can run at its nominal output (its normal, efficient operating level) comfortably, maintaining the temperature it’s designed for, while working in balance with your home’s main heating system not overpowering or underperforming,' concludes Simon.

FAQs

What should you look for when choosing a woodburning stove?

In addition to the size and heat output of a log burner, there are several other factors that should be considered when making your decision.

• The type of stove. Radiant, convection, multi-fuel, boiler or pellet — there are different types of burners available, so you'll need to choose the one that's right for your home.
• Design. Log burning stoves are available in a multitude of colours, and in both traditional and contemporary styles, to suit any home.
• Efficiency. 'When it comes to the environment, an Eco Design stove, approved for use in a smoke controlled areas, in accordance with the Clearskies, or Cleaner Choice schemes means that the chosen stove meets and exceeds specific measures relating to their energy efficiency and emissions,' explains Simon.
• Building regulations. Speaking with an expert can help you understand the installation process to ensure your log burner meets the standards laid out in the building regulations.
• Local rules and requirements. If you live in a Smoke Control Area, there may be limitations on the kinds of fuel you can burn, so it's important to check this when shopping for a burner.

Are you a keen DIYer? Make sure you understand just how complex it can be to install your own log burner before you attempt it.

Thinking about installing underfloor heating at home? You're probably not alone.

Underfloor heating works by turning your floor into a heat emitter, thanks to water pipes or electric cables laid beneath the flooring. While there are both pros and cons to underfloor heating, it needs to be fitted in the right place in order for it to be a worthwhile investment.

It can be installed in any room in your home (although some installations will be easier than others, depending on whether you are choosing wet or electric underfloor heating). Making sure your home is well-insulated is key to a successful installation, but even if your insulation is up to scratch, experts say there are definitely some areas where you definitely shouldn't fit underfloor heating.

1. Under appliances

Underfloor heating in an open-plan kitchen diner is hugely desirable for many homeowners. After all, it'll free up wall space to give you loads of flexibility when it comes to furniture layout and placement of bifold or sliding doors, or even a picture window or two.

But while underfloor heating works really well in a space like this, it's important that the pipework is not laid beneath large appliances like fridge freezers, ovens and washing machines.

Putting underfloor heating beneath these appliances can cause them to overheat which can lead to damage and, in the case or fridges and freezers, cause them to use more energy to cool the items inside due to the additional heat exposure.

2. In a room where you want a thick carpet

If you love the feeling of a thick luxurious carpet beneath your feet, in your bedroom for example, then that's definitely not a spot for underfloor heating.

'Thick carpets act as an insulator on underfloor heating, especially with thick underlay, so a room where that is your objective won’t work as well as one with thin carpets or hard floors,' says Simon Bones, CEO and Founder at Genous.

If you heart is set on it though, make sure you choose a floorcovering that works well with underfloor heating — and you'll be pleased to know that carpet isn't entirely vetoed.

3. Under fitted furniture

Another spot that should be avoided when laying pipework for underfloor heating is beneath where fitted furniture is going to stand.

'Wet UFH is suitable for most areas of a home, but there are certain spaces where installation may cause issues, or the systems may not run as efficiently,' explains Ben Perris, Head of Sales for Indoor Climate Solutions at Wavin. 'Rooms with fixed furniture, such as fully fitted kitchens or walk-in wardrobes, limit usable heated floor area and can cause uneven heating.'

In addition to potentially causing the system to overheat, it's also possible that the pipework could be damaged when fitting the fixed units, which could then be very disruptive to fix.

It's much better to focus the pipework beneath open spaces so the heat generated can be more effective, rather than heating things kept in a cupboard.

4. Ba cautious with basements and wet rooms

So technically, this point isn't about not installing underfloor heating in these places entirely, it's more about exercising caution when doing so. While you can put underfloor heating in a basement or wet room, it may require special attention to ensure it runs most efficiently.

Ben explains: 'High-moisture spaces like basements or wet rooms can be tricky for wet UFH if they don't have proper insulation or vapour control. Without these, you might run into issues like condensation or poor efficiency.'

Knowing how to insulate a basement properly will help you if you want to install underfloor heating as part of a basement conversion project.

FAQs

Now you know where not to opt for this kind of heat emitter, you should also check out the things experts want you to know before you install underfloor heating.

If you're considering adding underfloor heating to your home, you'll need to have a clear understanding of what underfloor heating runs off to ensure you're using the most suitable heat source.

Underfloor heating is a popular choice for renovators and extenders alike. One of the main pros of underfloor heating is its energy efficiency, and choosing the right source of heat for this kind of emitter can help you boost that efficiency, reducing both your energy usage and your bills.

But what are the options when it comes to a heat source for underfloor heating, what should be considered, and which is best? I asked underfloor heating experts to find out.

What does underfloor heating run on?

When it comes to what underfloor heating runs off, the answer will depend on the type of system in question — wet or dry.

With dry (also known as electric) underfloor heating, the answer is clear cut. 'Electric underfloor heating comes off your electricity supply, and can be partly supplied by any solar panels you have (though your solar panels tend not to be that productive in the winter when you want your underfloor heating on!),' says Simon Bones, CEO and Founder at Genous.

When it comes to wet underfloor heating, it's closer to a traditional heating system, as Simon explains: 'Wet systems just work like radiators, except the warm water is pumped under your floor in coiled pipework rather than through a radiator, and the flow temperature tends to be lower (both because the floor is a bigger area so emits more heat than a small radiator at a given temperature and because otherwise you’d burn your feet!).'

'Wet UFH systems can be powered by several heat sources, including gas boilers, electric boilers and heat pumps,' continues Ben Perris, Head of Sales for Indoor Climate Solutions at Wavin. 'The best choice for your home can depend on a variety of factors such as the existing heating system, floor insulation levels, available space, budget, and your sustainability goals.'

What's the best heat source for underfloor heating?

While electricity is your only option for electric underfloor heating, the options for wet underfloor heating can leave you wondering which one is best. And the experts I spoke to unanimously agreed that a heat pump is the best heat source for wet underfloor heating.

'The most energy efficient choice of heat source to run with water underfloor heating is a heat pump, and likely a ground source heat pump, or one that uses a communal ground loop due to its seasonal stability,' says Sam Jump, Head of Business Development at Wunda Group PLC. 'When paired with low temperature heating systems like underfloor heating heat pumps are far more efficient than boilers because they can run at their optimum low temperature and deliver maximum efficiency.

'Heat pumps move heat from one place to another (from the ground or outside air), rather than generating all the heat from fuel or electricity. Heat pumps use on average one unit of energy to move 3 - 6 units of thermal energy. Compared to a traditional boiler that uses one unit of energy to make at best 0.95 units of heat.'

However, if you are looking to keep your upfront underfloor heating costs as low as possible, you can still use your boiler and still benefit from some improved efficiency. Sam explains: 'Pairing a boiler with an underfloor heating system can also improve the boilers efficiency, as the boiler can be turned down to a lower flow temperature than radiators allowing condensing boilers to work in condensing mode.'

On the other hand, if you have the budget and want to maximise the efficiency of your heating system by swapping to a heat pump, you may need to make extra considerations. Simon warns: 'If you’re only putting underfloor [heating] in some of the home, though, you normally need to upgrade some of the radiators in the rest to benefit from the heat pump to the greatest extent possible.'

Read our guide if you want to know more about how efficient underfloor heating is.

Log burners hold wide appeal, especially now as the temperatures start to drop and the darker nights roll in. But if you have plans to add one to your home, you'll need to make sure you nail the ventilation for your log burner to ensure it works properly and safely.

Ventilation is a key part of the building regulations for log burners. Adequate air supply is needed for your burner's fuel to burn effectively, but also to ensure any smoke is carefully expelled rather than wafting back into your home.

To help you get it right, I asked the experts why adequate ventilation is so important, what's required and what the consequences can be of getting it wrong.

Why is log burner ventilation so important?

If you are considering installing a log burner, and want it to work most effectively and without danger to your home or your health, it's important you get the ventilation right. 'Modern homes, especially new build houses or those with airtight insulation and double glazing, are particularly prone to insufficient ventilation, so this must be a key consideration when planning to install a wood burning stove in these property archetypes,' states Simon Bower, Technical Director at Percy Doughty.

'Ventilation is extremely important when installing your appliance, for its safe operation, the environment, and the prevention of dangerous gases, in particular carbon monoxide building up in the room, in the event of a spillage when the chimney is under performing. This occurs, when through reduced combustion air flow, the chimney will fail to draw correctly causing the stove to spill products of combustion into the room.'

What ventilation do you need for a log burner?

'All stoves require proper ventilation to ensure they burn efficiently, safely and correctly, explains Jon Butterworth, Director at Arada Stoves. 'Any wood burner which is over 5kW must have a permanently open ventilation kit or air brick installed in the room to ensure adequate air flow to the stove. This is especially the case for new build or airtight properties which tend to be very well insulated and therefore require a permanent air vent which is open to the outside.'

This is more than a nice to have too — the requirements are actually set out in the building regulations.

Approved Document J, which is to do with combustion appliances and fuel storage, sets out rules around air supply and the discharging of products of combustion (which is essentially safely getting the smoke out of your home), as well as ensuring the materials used for hearths, fireplaces, fluepipes and chimneys are suitable.

The guidelines state that there should be sufficient air supply to allow the fuel to burn properly, to cool the log burner where necessary, and to ensure there is no hazard to health from the smoke the log burner may make. Simon adds: 'To comply with the Building Regulations, it is necessary both to follow the correct procedures and meet technical performance requirements for ventilation when it comes to combustion appliances.' Manufacturers instructions should also be followed, as they may state requirements further to the building regs.

Simon goes on to say: 'Any purpose provided ventilation should be permanent, and cannot be closed, it should be installed to provide air from outside and not another room, and with some appliances the stove can be installed with a sealed supply duct directly attached to the appliance, typically this would be known as a direct air supply.

'In all instances an approved solid fuel engineer registered with the appropriate competent persons scheme will be best placed to advise on the requirement in each instance.'

What can happen if you get log burner ventilation wrong?

While not following the correct ventilation guidance will mean that your log burner doesn't work properly, it can also mean that using your appliance could pose a significant risk to your home and your health.

'Fire is a chemical reaction when fuel (wood or coal) and oxygen in the atmosphere are ignited,' explains Joanna Humphreys, Fire and Stove Specialist at Direct Stoves. 'Without sufficient amounts of either fuel or oxygen the fire will gradually go out. Chimneys work when an up-draught caused by the difference in temperature between the gases from the fire and the atmosphere outside draws the air up through the flue.

'At the same time fresh air for combustion is drawn into the stove. If too much air flows up the chimney your house will start to depressurise. When a space becomes depressurised it wants to replace the air from any available source – through windows or doors or even from the chimney. This causes the smoke to come back into your home rather than escaping as it should.'

Simon continues saying: 'When the ventilation is incorrect or undersized, emissions can be increased through incomplete combustion, air quality can become compromised and the risk of the build up of soot, smoke, and creosote increases.'

FAQs

How to make sure you get log burner ventilation right

To ensure you get the right ventilation in place for your log burner, it's best to engage the help of a professional. This can also help streamline the building regs process.

If the professional is registered as Competent Person (a Department for Levelling Up, Housing and Communities-approved scheme), then they can self-certify their work and issue a compliance certificate once the work is complete.

Installing your own log burner is not for the faint of heart. Beyond that, meeting the building regs requirements can be complicated, so it's best to get a professional to install it for you.

EDITOR’S NOTE: An earlier version of this article included a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote has been removed. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

Whether you are renovating your existing home, or adding more space with an extension, you'll need to figure out how you plan to heat it. Underfloor heating is a popular option, but with different types available, how do you know which is best?

If you've decided that underfloor heating is the right choice for your home, one of the first decisions you'll need to make is whether you want a wet or electric system. But if you're new to the world of this kind of heat emitter, you might feel a little flummoxed as to which type of underfloor heating is best for your home, and you definitely don't want to make the wrong choice.

Fortunately, I've spoken to numerous underfloor heating pros and got their expert insight on which type of underfloor would best suit your home and why.

What's the difference between wet and electric underfloor heating?

Before you can decide which is better, you need to understand the difference between wet and electric underfloor heating. Both types are similar in that they effectively turn your floor into a radiator, and there are several pros and cons of each type of underfloor heating that you should be aware of before you set your heart on it.

But while the end result is similar, the differences stem from how the systems actually work. 'Wet underfloor heating (UFH) works by running warm water through pipes hidden beneath the floor to heat a room,' explains Ben Perris, Head of Sales for Indoor Climate Solutions at Wavin. 'Instead of using radiators, the heat rises evenly across the whole room, eliminating cold spots and creating a more stable and consistent indoor climate.'

On the other hand electric underfloor heating, also known as dry underfloor heating, doesn't use water at all. Instead it is connected to your home's mains and the cables are heated with electricity.

Which is better – wet or electric underfloor heating?

Determining whether wet or electric underfloor heating is better will primarily depend on where you want to install it. For large spaces or whole homes, wet is definitely best, while electric underfloor heating is better suited to small rooms, like bathrooms.

Electric underfloor heating has a faster heat up time than wet underfloor heating (but also cools quicker), which adds to it's suitability for rooms that aren't in constant use, such as bathrooms and en suites.

It's also important that you choose the right floorcovering for your underfloor heating to ensure it works most effectively and to ensure you reap all the benefits.

Which type of underfloor heating is cheaper – wet or electric?

The cost of underfloor heating is another important factor to consider, and there are marked differences between wet and electric underfloor heating.

Electric systems are cheaper to install than wet, as the process is simpler and they are primarily installed in small, individual rooms rather than large open plan spaces. However the opposite is true when it comes to long-term running costs, where the price per unit of electricity compared to a unit of gas comes into play.

'Electric systems are primarily advised for only heating smaller spaces such as a bathrooms or single-room retrofit projects due to the ever-increasing running costs,' says Sam Jump, Head of Business Development, Wunda Group PLC. 'Water-based systems are cheaper to run than electric and have a much longer working life span, so are best for larger-scale projects such as kitchens, open-plan spaces and full-house renovations.'

Which type of underfloor heating is more efficient?

When it comes to the efficiency of underfloor heating, if you want underfloor heating in a single room that is only used for short bursts at a time, then electric underfloor heating will be the most efficient thanks to it's quick heat up time.

But if you want to heat larger spaces or your whole home, then wet underfloor heating is the better choice. It may cost more to install, and take longer to warm up, but the even spread of heat ensures you can achieve a consistent level of comfort throughout.

But in order for your underfloor heating to work most efficiently, it needs to be installed correctly, so make sure you choose a reputable installer.

FAQs

Is underfloor heating better than radiators?

In terms of energy efficiency, underfloor heating pips radiators to the post, as it works at lower temperatures than traditional radiator systems. 'Water-based underfloor heating gives a superior output to radiators while using much lower temperatures which means running costs, and in turn heating bills, are greatly reduced,' says Sam Jump.

'In the long run, underfloor heating is cheaper than radiators as your whole floor becomes your heat emitter and as the underfloor heating replaces your radiators you can free up space in your home for more design freedom on layout and furniture.'

But while underfloor heating may work more efficiently, it's more expensive to install than a radiator, so make sure you weigh up underfloor heating versus radiators carefully before you decide.

Whichever type you choose, before you install it make sure you read what experts say you should know before installing underfloor heating.

As with most aspects of home renovation, there are building regulations to adhere to when installing a log burner, and if you want to ensure your's delivers heat safely within your house, you need to understand what these are.

Wood burning stoves are a fantastic way to bring heat into all kinds of spaces and, in the case of my own log burner, I am not sure where we'd be without it once winter hits and our draughty old house lets in the chill.

Thankfully, the building regulations to install a log burner need not be complicated. Our expert-led guide explains everything you need to know in order to get that completion certificate in your hands and your fire blazing away safely.

Do you need building regs for a log burner?

In short, yes, everything from the model of log burner you select to the way in which it is installed must comply with building regulations.

Fail to adhere to the rules and you will not get a Certificate of Compliance, which could make selling your home hard should you decide to do so in the future.

Additionally, ignoring the regs mean you are risking the safety of your household, as well as rendering the stove less effective than it could be.

'It is not red tape, it’s a checklist for you to be sure your stove is legal, safe and efficient and it will be genuinely worth the money you spend as a capital improvement to your home,' points out Farook Member, director and home improvement expert at QS Supplies.

Which building regs apply to log burners?

The building regulations for log burners are there not only to ensure that your new installation poses no safety risks, but also that it won't damage other areas of your home.

'Homeowners must comply with Document J of the Building Regulations, HETAS guidelines, and the manufacturer’s installation instructions,' explains Gregg Robinson, technical advisor at ESSE Engineering Ltd. 'These cover essential safety and ventilation requirements, such as flue design, hearth specifications, and safe distances from combustible materials.'

The wood burner ideas and model of stove you choose also need to comply with certain regulations.

'If you are in a Smoke Control Area, you can only burn wood on a stove that is DEFRA-certified,' explains Farook Member. 'Selecting the wrong model can put you in breach of the law.'

Can you install your own log burning stove?

In the case of my own log burning stove, we took a DIY route towards its installation. While this was not illegal by any means, it did mean familiarising ourselves fully with the relevant regs and informing building control of the work. On reflection, I am not sure we'd do it again as, on top of ensuring we were complying with building regulations for extensions, this was just another thing to think about.

'Contacting a HETAS installer is the best way to get your stove fitted properly,' states Joanna Humphreys, fire & stove expert for Direct Stoves. 'Since any change to your chimney is considered building work, there are a number of building regulations that you will need to adhere to. One of the many benefits of having a HETAS installer fit your stove is that they already know the wood burning stove regulations, saving you the headache of reading up on them yourself.'

'You can carry out the installation yourself but you must strictly follow the manufacturer’s instructions, Document J, and HETAS guidelines,' picks up Gregg Robinson. 'Once complete, you must notify your local authority’s building control department, who will inspect and approve the installation if it meets requirements.'

Do building regs affect the type of stove you can have?

It isn't just the installation of your log burner that needs to meet building regulations. The model of stove you choose also needs to conform – in fact this is one of the most important things to know before installing a log burner.

'When searching for the right wood burning stove, make sure to check out those approved by the Department of Environment, Food, and Rural Affairs (DEFRA),' advises Joanna Humphreys. 'Such stoves have been engineered to satisfy the high smoke emissions standards of the UK government. Picking a DEFRA-certified stove not only ensures compliance with Smoke Control Area policies but also your part in keeping the air clean and the world greener.

'In addition to DEFRA, the newest models are designed to meet and exceed strict EcoDesign standards,' continues Joanna. 'They are built to burn fuel as efficiently as possible and many are now clean-burning and therefore considered carbon neutral, meaning it does not produce more carbon dioxide (CO2) than is already present in the carbon cycle.'

What happens if you ignore the building regulations?

Whether you are building an extension or simply carrying out a few easy home upgrades, to ignore the building regulations is incredibly unwise.

'Non-compliant installations cannot be legally signed off, and without a Certificate of Compliance, your home insurance may be invalidated,' explains Gregg Robinson.

'Additionally, local building control or a professional installer may classify the stove as unsafe, requiring costly changes or removal.'

How much does it cost to get log burner building regs approval?

If you use a HETAS-approved installer, their fees should include building regs approval and a final completion certificate. If not, you will need to arrange, and pay for, this yourself.

Fees vary from council to council, but expect to pay between £400-£600 for the application fee (which you will usually have to pay upfront) and an inspection fee that will likely be charged once work is commenced.

If additional visits are required, this will cost you extra – and if any of the work you have carried out fails to comply with the regs, you will need to pay to put it right.

FAQs

Do you need planning permission for a log burner?

Unless you live in a listed property, it is highly unlikely that you will require planning permission in order to install a wood burning stove.

'In the UK, you don’t need any prior planning permission to install a wood burner, if the work is carried out by a HETAS installer,' explains Joanna Humphreys.

'In this case, your installer is qualified to certify the works themselves, and will issue a Certificate of Compliance as proof – this will be signed by your installer and used to notify your council of the building work.'

What is the easiest way to comply with the building regs?

If you are in any way worried that your stove won't be safe or comply with the relevant building regulations, there are some steps you can take to remove the risk.

'The simplest and most reliable way is to use a HETAS-registered installer,' says Gregg Robinson. 'They are trained and certified to carry out installations that meet all legal and safety standards, and they can self-certify the work, providing a Certificate of Compliance.

Do take time to consider the fireplace ideas that you'll use to house your new log burner (unless you plan on opting for a freestanding model of course). The surround also needs to take into account building regs.

As one of many people who work from home, having a dedicated space to do my job is a real bonus. But unfortunately, my home office suffers from an utter lack of heat, and I wish that I'd installed underfloor heating in there when I gave it a makeover towards the end of last year.

I've made use with a plug-in heat source, and while it's effective and heats up quickly, I'm constantly turning it on and off throughout the day to try and maintain a comfortable environment.

But as temperatures are starting to drop again, and my office is feeling very chilly, especially first thing in the morning, my mind is turning to whether I should add underfloor heating to my wish list for the new year.

1. There's no heating in there currently

My office sits in a garage conversion, along with a utility room and small WC (all of which was converted by the previous owners), and it has always niggled at me that they didn't put any kind of heating in the space. I find this fair enough in the utility room, and arguably the WC, where no one is spending any extended amount of time. But it means the office gets unbearably chilly for a good five months of the year.

I've made do with one of the best oil-filled radiators, but I find it difficult to maintain a consistent heat level throughout the day, and it's additional clutter in a relatively small room.

In my mind, underfloor heating would definitely solve those issues.

2. I don't need to heat the rest of the house at the same time

When I'm working in my home office all day, I don't need to heat the rest of my home to the same extent at the same time. And so being able to heat my office as it's own zone seems like it would be a good idea in terms of comfort, energy consumption, and importantly, my energy bills. This has been a huge priority for me, ever since the energy crisis post-pandemic sent prices soaring.

As I just want it in a single room, I think electric underfloor heating would be the best option for my office. By reducing my central heating usage in rooms I'm not using during the day, I could hopefully offset the cost of electricity to run the underfloor heating.

Additionally, the fact that my office sits at the front of what used to be the garage means it's furthest from the rest of the house. By adding underfloor heating in this space, which will raise the floor level, the impact will be as minimal as it can be

3. I need to keep walls free

One of the biggest pros of underfloor heating is that it leaves walls free, which means you have much more flexibility when it comes to furniture placement.

With the need for a desk and some storage, as well as a stud wall which was built in front of the gas and electric meters which leaves a little alcove at the end, having a traditional radiator wouldn't be feasible.

But underfloor heating would mean the walls remain free and I can place all the necessary furniture wherever I want, and make the most of the home office storage potential.

For a cosier feeling, choose a warm home office colour scheme, double points if it boosts your focus and productivity too!

As temperatures drop and autumn truly settles in, if you have a conservatory, you might be preparing to avoid it for the next few months because it's just too cold. If that sounds like you, then it might be time to consider how to heat your conservatory so it remains comfortable and cosy all through the winter. Log burners are popular options for living rooms, but is it a really bad idea to put one in a conservatory?

Experts say it's not, but that there are key considerations you'll need to make to ensure installing a log burner in a conservatory is done safely, and that it works in the most effective way possible.

Is it a bad idea to put a log burner in a conservatory?

It's definitely not a bad idea to put a log burner in a conservatory. In fact, it can be a really good way to heat the space and make it more usable in the winter months. After all, it can seem like a real shame not to be able to use your conservatory because it's uncomfortably cold.

'Due to their glass construction, conservatories can get really cold during the winter,' says Joanna Humphreys, Fire and Stove Specialist at Direct Stoves. 'A wood burning stove offers an extremely efficient way of heating up your room as-and-when you need it. They also have the added benefit of producing the cosy atmosphere that only the flicker of real flames can offer!'

But given the nature of the room, its glass roof, and the roofs proximity to any upstairs windows, it's important that you use an expert to install it, rather than trying to attempt a DIY log burner installation.

What should you consider when putting a log burner in a conservatory?

Consulting an expert will ensure you consider all the important factors if you want to install a log burner in your conservatory, but it's worth going into those conversations with some knowledge so you'll know what questions to ask.

Key considerations for a project like this include:

• The size and type of stove you will need. It's important you choose the right size of stove, as Contura UK Managing Director, Phil Wood explains: 'A larger room will require stoves with bigger heat chambers to sufficiently heat the space. A woodburning stove with a 3-9kW capacity will easily heat a room of up to 120sq metres with average insulation.' You can also choose between log burners and multi-fuel options.
• What stove material you should choose. 'Choosing a stove material is another crucial factor and very much depends on the style of the conservatory it is being installed in,' says Phil. 'The more modern soapstone, tiled, aluminium or glass-fronted freestanding stoves will sit well in modern and minimalist garden rooms as well as contrast nicely against more rustic styled interiors. Freestanding stoves with a raised firebox and large glass door look great in conservatories, orangeries or garden rooms which have a lot of glass and a view, working to connect the natural environment outside with the logs burning inside.'

• What will make the installation more straightforward. 'When considering where you are going to fit your wood burner in your conservatory, bear in mind that the closer you fit it to your house, the easier it will be,' says Joanna. 'This is because your stove flue will need to be supported; and the wall is a good place to do this. The flue can then be attached to the wall all the way up to the roof, where it can deposit fumes at a safe distance at your rooftop - this should be at least 1 metre above your house guttering.'
• Getting the flue through the roof. 'A technical consideration to have in mind is that the chimney/flue needs to be a certain height to draw air properly and as conservatories are usually single storey, there will likely be flue showing above the roof,' explains Phil. 'Where the flue exits, the roof must be non-combustible, so you may need to replace a panel for safety and weather tightness.' There will also be requirements on how close this can be to a window too so Jon Butterworth, Director at Arada Stoves, advises to: 'Speak to your conservatory manufacturer about these panels. If the flue is installed close to the house, bear in mind that the flue terminal will need to be positioned 2.3 metres from any opening window.'
• Local guidelines and restrictions. When it comes to a log burning stove, Jon adds: 'It may be that local restrictions mean it is difficult or not possible to install one, so if that’s the case, you could install a bioethanol stove or a gas stove if you have a gas supply.'

For many of these points, there is not a one-size-fits-all answer, so it's really important to get advice based on your specific home and the particular burner you want to add. This will ensure it not only works most effectively, but also that it's installed in a safe and structurally sound way too.

FAQs

For more ideas to winter-proof your garden room, check out our guide to how to make a conservatory warmer.

There are plenty of reasons a homeowner would choose underfloor heating. Not only does it mean no radiators, but it also offers a really comfortable way to heat your home.

But while there is plenty that experts wish homeowners knew before installing underfloor heating, it's also important to know the mistakes to avoid that could lead to an ineffective system and sky-high energy bills.

To help you dodge these missteps, I've asked the experts for their tips on the most common underfloor heating errors they see, and what can be done to give them a wide berth.

1. Choosing the wrong type of underfloor heating system

Before you think about installing underfloor heating, it's crucial you choose the right type of underfloor heating. Get it wrong, and you could face much higher installation costs (and disruption) than planned, as well as needlessly high running costs.

Electric underfloor heating systems are best suited to installation in a single room, especially a bathroom, as it offers fast heat up times and quick and easy installation. But if you try and install electric underfloor heating in larger spaces, the cost to run will be significant.

On the other hand, wet underfloor heating systems are more complex to install, which can mean higher upfront costs. However, the running costs will be much lower, especially when installed in the busiest areas of the home, like the kitchen.

You also need to choose right system for the type of installation — whether it's in a space you are building from scratch, or retrofitted as part of a renovation project. ‘Underfloor heating really shines in new builds because it can be built straight into the floor structure, which makes it much more efficient,' says Eric Hargreaves from Your Choice Builders. 'When it’s designed properly, you get lower energy bills, no cold spots, and a much more even heat than traditional radiators.

‘One mistake people often make is underestimating how much floor depth is needed. If the build-up isn’t right, you don’t get the heat transfer you’re expecting, and the system struggles.'

2. Not considering your home's overall efficiency

No one wants to pay for heating that's literally just escaping outside, and so it's important that you address any poor insulation or draughty windows and doors before you install underfloor heating.

Failing to do so will not only mean your not reaping all the rewards an underfloor heating system can offer, but it will also means you'll be using way more energy than you need to (with higher energy bills to boot) in order to keep your home a comfortable temperature.

3. Sub-standard installation

In the case of wet underfloor heating especially, proper installation is vital. Without it, you risk cold spots, inefficiency and failing parts, which could be very difficult and disruptive to resolve. Unless you are experienced in fitting underfloor heating yourself, it's best to leave the installation of a wet system to a professional to ensure it's done properly and to avoid voiding any warranty. Electric underfloor heating kits mean you may be able to install this type of system yourself, but you will need a qualified electric to connect it to your home's electrical system.

It's also crucial that you have the right controls too, to ensure you have a comfortable environment at all times and use the system most cost-effectively. 'Modern UFH provides homeowners with far more control over their comfort and energy use, explains Ben Perris, Head of Sales for Indoor Climate Solutions at Wavin. 'Unlike traditional radiators, which heat a single area, UFH can be split into zones, allowing each room or area to maintain its own temperature.

'One of the biggest pitfalls homeowners make with underfloor heating is underestimating the importance of controls. Without an easy-to-use, well-planned control system, even the most efficient UFH setup can fall short.

'The key is choosing a system that makes managing your heating straightforward. Modern solutions simplify this process for both installers and homeowners. Intuitive app controls and clear zoning options allow homeowners to adjust temperatures room by room, schedule heating times, and even control the system remotely – making it easy to enjoy all the benefits of underfloor heating without the complexity.'

4. Pairing it with the wrong flooring

If you want to make sure your underfloor heating works most efficiently, then you need to make sure it's paired with the right type of flooring. Fortunately when it comes to floorcoverings for underfloor heating, there are plenty of options to choose from as well as some that should definitely be avoided.

'The key is to choose materials that conduct heat effectively and remain stable as temperatures change,' says Adam Robertson, Managing Director at Urbane Living. 'Thick carpets and heavy underlays are the least effective. They act as insulators, which means the heat struggles to pass through, reducing the efficiency of the system. If you do want carpet, look for low-tog options and keep the pile height to a minimum.'

5. Thinking it's maintenance free

While a correctly-installed underfloor heating system can be low maintenance, it's not zero maintenance.

Choosing a system from a reputable supplier with quality parts is a good start, but it's also important to keep on top of annual servicing to ensure your system runs smoothly for as long as possible. This is also a way to deal with any issues quickly before they turn into something worse, that may involve a lot of upheaval to fix.

You should also make sure you carefully read the manufacturer's instructions on how to use your underfloor heating so you can avoid any issues caused by human error.

Use our guide if you are still weighing up your options in the underfloor heating vs radiators debate to ensure you choose the right emitter for your home.

EDITOR’S NOTE: An earlier version of this article included a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote has been removed. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

Whether you are extending or taking on a whole-house renovation, you'll need to devote some attention to how you plan on heating the space.

The idea of underfloor heating holds huge appeal for a lot of homeowners. It frees up wall space, offers even and comfortable heat distribution, and can help slash your energy bills. But it can be complicated to retrofit and has a relatively high upfront cost.

So how do you know if underfloor heating is a good idea for your home? Well I asked the experts to clearly explain the pros and cons, and well as highlighting the most suitable applications to help you decide.

Is underfloor heating a good idea?

Whether or not underfloor heating is a good idea for your home will depend on a few different factors:

• Whether you are considering it for a new space, like an extension, or want to retrofit it in your existing home.
• The type of underfloor heating you want (wet or electric).
• How well insulated your home is.
• Your budget.

Taking all of those factors into consideration, you should carefully consider the advantages and drawbacks of underfloor heating in order to make your decision.

Pros of underfloor heating

• Even heat distribution. A huge plus of underfloor heating is that, if installed correctly, it ensures that heat is distributed consistently across the floor, which then rises to ensure a comfortable temperature without any cold spots.
• Frees up wall space. Whether you're keen to embrace a minimalist look, or want maximum options when it comes to the placement of your furniture, underfloor heating leaves your walls free for whatever you want.
• Energy efficient. This means potentially lower energy bills with wet underfloor heating, especially if combined with a heat pump. This may not be the case for electric underfloor heating however.
• Easy to control. Depending on your set up, you may be able to zone your system to only heat certain rooms, which again can help with energy efficiency.
• Good for those with allergies. In the way radiators heat a room, they can contribute to the distribution of dust which can be problematic to those with allergies or respiratory issues.
• Low maintenance. If installed correctly, using quality parts, underfloor heating can be incredibly low maintenance
• Good choice for extensions. If you are adding space to your home with an extension, especially one with a lot of glass and where radiators aren't feasible, underfloor heating is an ideal choice to free up your design ideas.

Cons of underfloor heating

• Retrofitting in an existing property can be a challenge. Electric systems can be an easier retrofit option than wet systems, but may not offer the same cost-effective running costs, so is better for a single room rather than the whole house.
• Higher upfront cost compared to radiators. When it comes to underfloor heating versus radiators, underfloor heating can be more complex to install which can mean higher initial costs. Depending on your budget, it may be better to combine underfloor heating in certain spaces, with radiators in others to get the best of both worlds.
• Electric systems will not be as cost-effective to run. 'Electric underfloor heating tends to be much cheaper to put in but, because it runs on electricity at a similar efficiency to a boiler (heat pumps are much more efficient) and a unit of electricity is four times the price of a unit of gas or heating oil, running costs will be much higher so, unless it’s for a small space (e.g. a small bathroom) or a super-efficient home with very low heating costs, it’s probably best avoided if you’re going to be paying the bills,' says Simon Bones, the founder and CEO of Genous.
• Not suitable for poorly insulated homes. If your home suffers from heat loss due to draughts and ineffective insulation, you'll need to address this before installing underfloor heating. Otherwise all the heat you generate will escape straight outside.

Where's the best place to install underfloor heating?

The best place to install underfloor heating will ultimately depend on your budget, your home and the type of system you choose.

The ground floor tends to be a popular choice for underfloor heating, especially in an extension (where a wet system can be planned in from the design stage to avoid negatively impacting existing ceiling heights). This could be for a number of reasons, including avoiding potentially unsightly radiators, and the tendency towards harder floor coverings that well complement underfloor heating.

'Most people run underfloor in their lowest floor and then keep radiators for upper floors,' says Simon Bones, 'but there’s no reason apart from cost and disruption not to put it in upper floors.'

Bathrooms are also favoured, especially as these are often small spaces, with potentially limited wall space for radiators, and for those looking for warmth underfoot.

With many people preferring the comfort of carpet in bedrooms, you might think that underfloor heating is not compatible, but it is possible to have underfloor heating with carpet, provided you opt for a lower tog that won't affect the system's efficacy.

FAQs

If you aren't adding more space to your home but what to incorporate this type of heating system, it'll be helpful to know what's involved in retrofitting underfloor heating so you can make a final decision about whether it's suitable for your home.

Whether you're extending your home, or undertaking a major renovation, you may be changing up your heating system to work better for your lifestyle and your home.

Underfloor heating is a popular option but, to get the most of it, you need to make sure that it's paired with the right floor covering so that it not only looks good but works effectively, too.

To help, I've spoken to various experts to find out which materials work best with underfloor heating, and which should be avoided altogether.

Which flooring types work well with UFH?

There's a variety of floor coverings that work really well with underfloor heating, so you'll definitely be able to find something suitable. You choice might depend on the look you are trying to achieve, where it's going to be installed, or what fits into your budget after you've factored in the cost of underfloor heating.

But while you have a choice of materials at your disposal, you will need to follow your retailer or installer's specific instructions for how to ensure your flooring acclimatises. This will likely involve bringing the underfloor heating up to temperature slowly and not exceeding maximum temperatures.

1. Engineered wood. 'Engineered wood flooring is one of the best materials to use as it’s natural, warm to the touch and a good conductor of heat,' says Anthony Scott, global product and innovation director at Havwoods. 'It’s worth being aware that the different thicknesses of engineered boards available will have an effect on its thermal resistance, which in turn will influence how warm your floors feel in conjunction with the underfloor heating system you install. Always refer to your wood surface specialist and the certification from your under floor heating supplier to ensure the two are compatible.'
2. Natural stone, ceramic and porcelain tiles. Tiles like these are a really good choice for use with underfloor heating as they have high thermal conductivity, which will warm your room quickly and efficiently. 'Porcelain offers a slightly quicker heat-up time and is very low maintenance, whereas natural stone retains heat beautifully and brings an individuality that comes from its unique veining and variation,' says Isabel Fernandez, director at Quorn Stone. 'Tiles remain the most effective option, but the installation is just as important as the material itself.'
3. Polished concrete. The industrial style of polished concrete holds strong appeal for homeowners, but it can be cold underfoot. Fortunately, it pairs really well with underfloor heating. However, it can crack if it experiences sudden temperature changes, so it's vital that you start slow and increase the UFH temperature a little at a time (about one degree a day). Make sure you check with your installer about any max temperature requirements.

4. Luxury Vinyl Tile. Vinyl flooring, including Luxury Vinyl Tile or LVT, can work well with underfloor heating. 'Because it’s thin, dense and dimensionally stable, LVT allows heat to travel efficiently through the floor, helping your home warm up faster and maintain an even temperature throughout,' explains Claire Ryan, PR & digital manager UK at Karndean Designflooring. 'Unlike solid wood, which can expand or contract as temperatures fluctuate, LVT holds its shape beautifully, making it an ideal option for busy, lived-in spaces. It’s also naturally comfortable underfoot, retaining warmth and offering a softer feel than tile.'
5. Laminate. Laminate flooring is another suitable option to use with both wet and electric underfloor heating as it doesn't warp at higher temperatures. As with other flooring types, it's a good idea to warm the underfloor heating slowly over a number of days to allow your floorcovering to acclimatise.
6. Natural fibre carpets. Whether you can have underfloor heating with carpet is a bit of a complicated question to answer. It is possible, but you need to make sure you choose the right type and TOG of carpet. Natural fibres are a good option, and a rule of thumb to follow is that, in order to work effectively, your choice of carpet should have a TOG rating of 1.5 (or 2.5 when combined with your choice of underlay).

Which flooring types don't work well with underfloor heating?

If you want your underfloor heating to be effective, and your floor to stand the test of time, then you'll need to avoid these floorcoverings.

• Solid wood. This material might look great, but it's definitely not an ideal match for underfloor heating. 'Solid hardwood flooring shouldn’t be used with underfloor heating as natural wood can expand and contract with temperature fluctuations,' explains flooring expert Jonathan Bromell from Wood Flooring Kent. 'This can cause significant damage as your flooring may warp and buckle overtime, resulting in gaps between the floorboards.'
• Thick carpet. While certain carpets can work with underfloor heating, thick and heavy yarn carpets should be avoided. 'Thick carpets don't work well with underfloor heating as they are insulators that trap heat underneath them, therefore reducing the effectiveness of the underfloor heating,' says Jonathan. 'Underfloor heating will then have to work harder to heat the flooring, reducing energy efficiency and increasing energy bills.'

FAQs

What's the best flooring to use with underfloor heating?

While there are a few different options that work well with underfloor heating, but according to Claire Ryan from Karndean Designflooring, the best results come from materials that allow heat to transfer quickly and evenly without the risk of warping.

When it comes to the floor coverings that do this most effectively, flooring experts Jonathan Brommell says it comes down to stone and ceramic tiles or engineered wood.

'Stone and ceramic tiles are the best flooring materials to use for underfloor heating as they efficiently and evenly transfer heat due to their thermal conductivity. Furthermore, they are highly durable and easy to clean which makes them a practical choice in a home,' he says.

'Engineered wood also works well with underfloor heating as it can adapt to changing floor temperatures and moisture content, as well as having good structural stability. Certain types of wood flooring can be affected by higher temperatures due to the moisture resistance of the wood, so it’s advised to not exceed 27ºC when heating wooden flooring.'

Installing underfloor heating is easier in a new space, such as an extension. But if you want to fit it in your existing home, then you'll need to follow our guide as to how to retrofit underfloor heating in an existing property.

During the renovation and extension of my Edwardian cottage, the majority of the work was carried out by me and my husband – largely due to the fact that we were trying to make savings wherever we could in order to spend on the aspects of the build that we just couldn’t do ourselves.

While we left the actual construction of the two extensions we added to the professionals – namely my builder brother-in-law and his roofer plus an electrician – we did pretty much everything else ourselves, including installing our wood burning stove.

Again, the DIY log burner installation was a money-saving exercise, but it wasn’t without its issues. If you are considering fitting your wood burner yourself, there are several key considerations to bear in mind. I’m here to explain them in order to help you make an informed decision on whether this is the right route for you.

Can you install a wood burning stove yourself?

Many people ask this question and, while it is true that there are many building regulations for log burners to be aware of, DIY installation is still a viable option – although not necessarily one that the experts I spoke to would advocate.

'You can legally install a DIY wood burner, but it’s recommended to use a qualified professional for safety and compliance,' explains Joanna Humphreys, fire and stove expert for Direct Stoves.

'We always say to work with a registered installer who will offer detailed technical specifications and support to guide you along the way,' adds Jon Butterworth, director at Arada Stoves.

So, while you might not actually be breaking any laws by installing a log burner yourself, you need to be fully confident that you understand the rules and regulations surrounding the task, and feel confident that you have the skills and knowledge to do it properly.

1. Check your choice of stove meets modern regulations

Much has changed in the world of wood burners in recent years, largely due to concerns over the effect they were having on the environment prior to more modern technological advances. What this means is, before any kind of installation begins, you need to be sure that the wood burner ideas you are considering comply with up-to-date rules and regulations.

'One of the key considerations is to ensure your stove is a modern, directly vented model,' explains Joanna Humphreys. 'Also, check your chosen stove meets local DEFRA smoke control zone regulations.'

We installed our stove before the 'Ecodesign standard' came into effect in 2022, but these days all new stoves need to meet agreed emission standards and the environmental and efficiency standards designed to keep emission low.

Shop Ecodesign log burning stoves

2. Notify building control

This is a big point to note – if you plan on DIYing this task you'll need to read up on building regulations for log burner installation.

If you use a certified installer, such as a HETAS engineer, they will ensure that all building regulations are met and provide you with a Certificate of Compliance for your records. When you take on installation yourself, like us, you will need to arrange this which can add to costs and cause delays.

'If you fit your stove yourself, or have a non-HETAS installer do the job, you will need to tell your local Building Control department before you start any work,' explains Joanna Humphreys. 'This isn’t strictly planning permission, but it is a necessary first step.

'When the work is complete, they will need to inspect it to ensure all building regulations have been met,' continues Joanna. 'This will be at your expense, so make sure to factor this into your stove budget and be aware that failure to follow the guidelines could result in a penalty.'

3. Your stove needs to sit on a suitable hearth

Whatever your fireplace ideas might be, you can't just go sitting your new stove on any old surface that takes your fancy. In our case, this meant building a suitable hearth, made from non-combustible materials, although it is possible to buy pre-made hearths for the job.

Our hearth is made from thick quarry tiles we salvaged from the old dining room, but other suitable materials include stones such as slate and granite.

There are different hearth regulations for freestanding stoves and those built into chimney recesses. Our log burner sits within an existing fireplace so it needed to project at least 500mm out in the room and be a minimum of 150mm wider than the recess it sits within.

4. You're going to need a head for heights

While much of the work involved installing a log burning stove takes place on the ground, there are certain aspects which will require you to get up onto the roof – so you'll need to feel comfortable with this, as well as being the owner of a suitably long ladder.

In order to get the flue liner into our chimney and the pot hanging cowl needed to secure the liner in place (as well as keep the chimney protected from rain, birds, and any vermin that might fancy a rummage), we had to get up onto the roof.

For us, this was made a lot easier by the fact that we still had scaffolding in place due to the roof replacement that was going on, which made the job a whole lot less hazardous when it came to reaching the top of the chimney.

If heights really aren't your thing, calling in a roofer or other suitable professional to carry out the work will be money well spent.

5. You may need to call out a chimney sweep

If, like us, you plan on siting your new log burner within an existing fireplace, vented up into the chimney, you are going to have to ensure that the chimney in question is up to the job of taking smoke and gases up and away safely. This will be the case whether you are installing a wood burner or open fire.

To verify that your chimney is in sound condition, you'll need to call out a qualified chimney sweep (the National Association of Chimney Sweeps and The Guild of Master Chimney Sweeps are both good starting points).

It might be that repairs are suggested or that some of the mortar or masonry needs to be replaced. Again, you can undertake this yourself, or leave it to the pros.

6. Log burning stoves are really heavy

Finally, another point to note if log burner installation is on your weekend to-do list – you are going to need some muscle to get this job done and it certainly isn't a task to undertake alone.

Whatever style of log burner you have opted for, they weigh a considerable amount (upwards of 100kg) and maneuvering them into position is no small task.

If you plan on installing your own flue liner and will be getting up on the roof, you will also need someone with you to supervise and hold the ladder. In short, this could be one of those dangerous DIY jobs that requires help – or professional input.

FAQs

What size log burner do I need?

It is so important to select the right size log burner for the space you plan on siting it.

As a general guide, experts recommend measuring your room in metres and dividing it by 14 (so length x width x height ÷ 14). However, if your space is open plan, is based around open staircase ideas or is badly insulated this needs to be taken into account when choosing the right stove size. Stovefitters Warehouse suggest dividing the room size by 10 if your room is poorly insulated or by 25 if it is within a new-build and super-insulated

'When selecting the perfect wood burner for your home, the size of the stove is an important factor,' explains Joanna Humphreys. 'For instance, if the stove is able to generate up to 5kW but only operates at 2kW, it will not be functioning at an efficient temperature and will generate more emissions. Therefore, ensuring that the size is appropriate for the area of use is fundamental for efficient and sustainable usage.'

To help you make the right choice for your home, check out the things I wish I'd known before installing a log-burning stove at home.

There are few things as exciting to me as the first properly crisp and cold day of autumn. A time when I can un-vacuum pack the cold-weather duvet, feel justified in lighting a few candles (even on a weekday) and, of course, fire up the wood burning stove.

Not only does the cosy glow it sends forth instantly transform the open plan kitchen-diner it sits within into a homey hub, but is also throws out tonnes of heat into what is, as outside temperatures dip, a draughty, chilly place to be – particularly as a home worker.

However, despite all the positives it brings to the house, there are certain elements of log burning stove ownership that came as a surprise to me (and not always a welcome one at that), even beyond the chance of log burning stoves rules changing. For this reason, I want to share with you the five things worth knowing before buying, installing and lighting your own wood burner.

1. DIY installation won't necessarily save you money

As with the majority of our renovation project, we undertook the installation of the log burner on a DIY basis. While this seemed like a good idea at the time, this is not necessarily a route I would take again.

'A stove is only as good as its installation, from chimney requirements to hearth regulations, all the details matter,' points out Jon Butterworth, director at Arada Stoves. 'Skipping professional help or attempting DIY installation yourself can lead to safety risks or even invalidate your home insurance,'.

Although we managed to successfully install our own stove, it meant informing building control (if we had used a registered installer they would have done this for us), clambering up onto the roof to fit the flue liner and chimney cowl, and reading up on log burner building regs.

2. Sometimes it kicks out too much heat

Our house was built in 1915 and as such can feel akin to a deep freeze on a winter's morning, despite all the draught proofing ideas we have implemented over the years. Solid walls and floors and draughty doors and windows are the main culprits. However, once the log burning gets going, it soon becomes super toasty. Sometimes a little too much so.

This has less to do with its size as it does with its placement, right next to our dining table. The arguments over who gets to sit next to the stove for dinner soon turn into sweaty pleas to swap places.

'One of the most common mistakes is buying a stove that’s too powerful or too weak for the room,' reveals Jon Butterworth. 'An oversized stove can overheat your space, causing discomfort and even potential fire hazards, which we don’t want. Be sure to measure the room's dimensions and consider the insulation level, such as if you have carpet and double-glazed windows.'

3. It requires more maintenance than you might think

Just like open fires, log burners require a degree of maintenance in order to stay in good (and safe) working order.

It is important to note that, if your stove is connected to a chimney, this will need to be swept on an annual basis, particularly after months of disuse. I always forget this then find myself way down at the bottom of our local sweep's to-do list, waiting impatiently to be able to light the log burner up.

You'll also need to find out how to clean log burner glass and carry out a few routine checks once you are using the stove regularly if you want it to perform effectively.

'We recommend having your stove professionally serviced and the flue swept at least once a year,' advises Jon Butterworth. 'This will ensure efficient, safe operation and help to prevent soot build-up, which can lead to fires if not properly maintained.'

'A consistent cleaning schedule, whether fortnightly or monthly, is advised,' adds Joanna Humphreys, fire and stove expert for Direct Stoves. 'It’s also important to remember, it’s not just the exterior that needs cleaning, the flue and glass door need attention too and may require different techniques.'

4. Not all logs are created equal

Even once your stove is clean and good to go, you need to give some thought to the fuel you'll burn – and this really does matter. Not only will you need to find a good, reliable supplier (neighbours are usually great for recommendations), but you will also need to check how they are delivered and think about some log storage ideas to keep them dry.

'One of the most important elements of efficient burning is selecting the right fuel, as it impacts the heat output, burn cleanliness and the overall health of your stove,' explains Joanna Humphreys. 'For wood burning stoves, it’s best to use seasoned or kiln-dried logs with a moisture content below 20% for optimal burning,' continues Joanna. 'If drying wood yourself, ensure it has enough time to season and, for reassurance, seek out logs with the 'Woodsure certification', a UK standard for high-quality ready-to-burn wood.

'This can then be stored in a dry, well-ventilated area to ensure it maintains low moisture levels. Painted or varnished wood should be avoided due to the chemicals it contains, which can release toxins and complicate stove cleaning.'

Shop outdoor log stores

5. The stove surround needs to be designed carefully

When we moved into our house, the dining room in which the log burner now stands was half the size it is, a dark closed-off 'middle room' with little light – the only feature (if you can call it that) was the fireplace, which had been installed at some point during the early 1950s when the house had last seen any decorating work.

A huge concrete design, adorned with mottled grey tiles, at its centre was an open fire within a heavy grate. It took some getting out, but once it was gone, we were able to see what we were working with. We preferred modern fireplace ideas and so decided to open up the fireplace to form what I would describe as a 'mini inglenook.' However, there were guidelines we needed to follow when it came to the size of the opening.

'When installing a stove, you need to be aware of the clearance to combustible materials – which means how much space you need around your stove to meet safety and building regulations,' explains Jon Butterworth. 'If a combustible material is within an unsafe distance of your stove, this can result in a fire hazard.

'The clearance advice will vary depending on the stove model, so it’s best to speak to your fitter who will be able to advise and install the stove correctly,' continues Jon. 'As a general rule, you need:

• At least 150mm above the stove (500mm is needed if you have a wooden mantlepiece).
• At least 150mm clearance on either side of the stove.
• At least 255mm clearance at the front of the burner.
• The hearth should be a minimum of 840x840mm and 12mm thick.
• The measurement behind your stove will depend on the stove model so ask your fitter.

FAQs

What size log burner do I need?

Getting the size of your log burner right is so important if you want to enjoy it. Opt for wood burner ideas that are too small and you'll still feel the chill even when it is roaring away – too big and you'll find the room overheating.

'You need to consider both the physical size of your stove, as well as the heat output it offers to ensure the room is heated efficiently,' explains Jon Butterworth. 'This will differ depending on the size of the room, how well insulated it is, if you have double glazing, if you have carpet or wood floors and so on.

'For example, if you have a well-insulated room with central heating, carpet and double glazing, a 5kW stove should be sufficient. In older, draughty homes with single-glazing and wood floors, you may need a 7kW stove.'

Still undecided on whether a log burning stove is the right option for you? Take some time to weigh up wood burners vs open fires to ensure you make the right choice.

With temperatures dropping, it's no wonder we're all turning our attention to how we can keep ourselves warm at home over the autumn and winter.

While it's not widely known that air conditioning can be used for heating, it can actually be a key way to keep your heating bills under control over the colder months, especially if it's installed in your most often used room.

With autumn being the best time to install air conditioning, it's crucial that you are up-to-date with the planning rules. But the good news is that, if your fitted air con unit can be used for heating as well as cooling, you may be able to bypass the need to submit a planning application.

However, there is a lot of conflicting information available online, so I have spoken to a planning expert and delved into the actual legislation to get to the bottom of the confusion.

Do you need planning permission to fit air conditioning at home?

The world of planning permission can be complex and the rules around fitting air conditioning are no different. When it comes to air conditioning, you'll likely find conflicting advice when you look online, with some sources saying you don't need planning permission, and others saying you don't.

So what's the truth?

Well the answer lies in whether the air conditioning unit is solely capable of producing cool air as opposed to both heating and cooling.

Do you need planning permission for air con that only provides cooling?

If you want to install fitted air conditioning that only has cooling functionality, then yes you will need to apply for planning permission.

'Misinformation online can easily mislead homeowners into thinking a project is covered by permitted development, when it actually requires an application for planning permission,' says Jake Powell, senior planner with Planning Portal's Planning Guidance Service.

'Because of widespread misinformation online, homeowners may not realise that they actually need to submit an application for planning permission to install an aircon unit – potentially landing them in hot water if they didn’t receive approval.'

However, it tends to be older units that only have the single function. Fortunately, newer units tend to offer both heating and cooling, but it's worth checking this before you buy.

Do you need planning permission for air con that provides heating?

Under The Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (England) Order 2015, the legislation that states what can and can't be done under permitted development, you can install a fitted air conditioning unit (also known as an air-to-air heat pump) without planning permission, provided it meets certain criteria.

• The unit must comply with the Microgeneration Certification Scheme Planning Standards. Your installer will be able to confirm this.
• You can only have one unit installed if your home is not detached or you live in a flat. You can have two on a detached property.
• You must not already have a wind turbine on your property
• The outdoor unit can not be more than 1.5m3
• It can't be installed on a pitched roof, or withing 1m of the edge of a flat roof
• The unit is not used solely for the purpose of cooling
• It's installed to minimise the impact on the external appearance of the building.

There are further limitations if you live in a listed building or a designated zone, like a conservation area or World Heritage Site.

Even if you are pretty sure your installation will fall under permitted development, it's always best to check with your local planning authority for confirmation.

FAQs

While air con can be a really good way to heat the room you are in, it's worth understanding other ways to keep your home warm in winter to ensure your energy bills remain under control.

It might seem like utter madness to be talking about air conditioning at a time when the temperatures are dropping and homeowners are starting to think about putting the heating back on.

But while more and more people are finding air conditioning worth it in the summer, many don't realise that it can also be used to keep your home warm in the winter too.

I spoke to multiple air con experts to find out how these units can offer much more than cooling (therefore making them useful all year-round) and how they can help reduce your heating bills over the winter too.

Can you only use fitted air conditioning in the summer?

It's a common misconception that air conditioning is only useful during a summer heatwave, where homes overheat beyond the point of comfort.

While it's true that older air conditioning systems may be set up to only offer cooling, many modern versions can be used to both cool your home in summer and heat your home in winter.

'Not all fitted air conditioners are capable of heating – it’s worthwhile looking out for models labelled as ‘cooling and heating’,' explains Katie Lilywhite, air treatment expert at AO.com. 'These dual function models can be a little bit more costly, but it’s a worthy addition to your home.'

For many, this added functionality makes a fitted air conditioning system a much more worthwhile investment, given that it has a useful purpose well beyond a short-term heatwave at the height of the summer. This functionality can also help you side-step planning red tape.

Can using air conditioning for heating reduce your heating bills?

A huge benefit of using air conditioning in the winter is that it can help you keep your energy bills as low as possible.

A key way to save energy at home and reduce your heating bills is to heat the room you are in rather than the whole property. This is where fitted air conditioning can come into it's own, especially if you have it installed in the room or rooms you use the most often, like a living room or home office.

'AC systems can also use zoning technology to ensure that only the spaces people are actively using are heated, which limits energy waste in unused rooms and reduces the workload of the AC,' explains Fernando de la Cruz Quintanilla, EMEA New Markets Director at Airzone. 'Modern AC systems can even use sensors that monitor when rooms are occupied, and use the data to heat accordingly and ultimately save on energy bills.'

In order for this to be most effective, you will need to keep the doors and windows to the room closed, and deal with any draughts that could see the heat you do generate go straight out the window. Literally!

Is AC more cost-effective than central heating?

Using fitted AC in heating mode can be cheaper than using your central heating, but best way to determine that is to compare the coefficient of performance (COP) which shows how much heat output you get compared to how much electricity it uses.

Nicholas Auckland, heating and energy expert at Trade Radiators, shared some calculations to help determine which is the more cost-effective heating option.

The following calculations use the upcoming October 2025 energy price cap costs of 26.35p/kWh for electricity and 6.29p/kWh for gas.

'COP stands for coefficient of performance. It shows how many times more heat you get out compared to the electricity that it uses, so the higher the COP, the cheaper the unit is to run,' explains Nicholas. 'So for example, COP 1 = £1 of electricity for £1 of heat, COP 3 = £1 of electricity for £3 of heat.

'So, heating one room with air con that needs 3kW of heat in order to stay warm (roughly an average-sized living/bedroom):

• If the AC unit runs at COP 3, then it would cost 26.35p per hour, which works out at £1.32 over 5 hours.
• If the AC unit runs at COP 4, then it would cost 20p per hour, which works out at £1 over 5 hours.
• If the AC unit runs at COP 5, then it would cost around 16p per hour, which would work out at 79p over 5 hours.

'On the other hand, heating a whole home with central heating that needs 10kW of heat in order to stay warm:

• Assuming the gas boiler is 90% efficient, it would cost 7p per kWh of heat. This would cost 70p per hour, and £3.50 in 5 hours.

So using air conditioning to heat the specific room you are in would be cheaper than using your central heating. However, if you had air conditioning in multiple rooms and used them all to provide heating, then that would cost more than using your central heating.

While air con in heating mode in a single room might be a more cost-effective option, you need to consider how your home is used. If you have a busy family home with people moving between different rooms all the time, then relying on fitted air con in one room probably isn't going to cut it, and heating the whole house with your central heating is the best option.

Using your air con for heat in a single room can reduce your heating bills, but remember you'll also need to factor in the cost to install air conditioning, in order to benefit from those savings.

How efficient are air conditioning units when it comes to heating?

'Using fitted air conditioning to heat a home can help to reduce a homeowner’s heating bills in winter because, compared to standard UK gas central heating systems, modern air conditioning units are typically more energy-efficient, as they can produce more heat than the energy they consume,' says Fernando de la Cruz Quintanilla.

Nicholas adds: 'In general air conditioning units in heating mode are very efficient because they work like heat pumps. They don't burn fuel like boilers, or convert electricity directly into heat like electric radiators, but instead they move heat from outside air into the home.'

FAQs

Do all air conditioners have heating capabilities?

Older air conditioning units may not offer heating capabilities, but most modern systems will (and it's something to check before you buy).

Beyond heating and cooling, many systems also have a dehumidifier mode as well as a fan mode, which can help ensure a comfortable living environment throughout every season.

It's important to note too that should you want to have and air con unit installed that's sole use is for cooling, then you will need to apply for planning permission. Units that offer both heating and cooling can usually be installed under permitted development.

Can you use a portable air conditioner for heating?

It's possible that a portable air con unit will have a heating mode, but it's unlikely to be as efficient as a fitted unit.

'If a portable AC unit has a heating mode, then that will likely work in the same way as an electric heater,' explains Nicholas. 'Plug in electric heaters only have a COP of 1, which means that you'll only ever get 1kWh of heat per 1kWh of electricity used. This means that it can be anywhere from 3 to 5 times more expensive to run than a fitted AC unit in heating mode, as they have a COP of 3-5.'

Can't decide between fitted and portable air con? I've tried both, and have a clear favourite.

I know, I know, talking about air conditioning in the UK in September seems laughable. After all, the heatwaves we experienced this summer have long gone, and temperatures are only going to drop further as we hurtle towards winter.

But if the discomfort of roasting summers has convinced you that fitted air con is worth it in the UK, it turns out that the best time to get it installed is in the autumn, Here's why.

1. It'll help spread the cost

The cost of installing air conditioning is substantial, especially compared to a portable air conditioner. And the highest running costs are likely to be in the hottest weather when the unit has to use the most energy to cool the warm air it draws in from outside.

So by paying for the installation in the autumn, you buy yourself a little bit of time between the purchase price and when it's going to cost you the most to use.

2. You'll avoid peak times and the highest demand

Demand for air con understandably peaks when it's hot, and with fitted air conditioning becoming more readily available, it's possible we could see supply issues like we've seen with portable AC units over the summer.

'Autumn is one of the best times to have air conditioning installed,' explains Hamid Salimi, Residential Product Manager at Daikin. 'Following the immediate heat of the summer, demand is lower, which means quicker installation and greater availability of engineers.'

By avoiding those peak times, when high temperatures put a real sense of urgency on your plans to keep your home cool, you give yourself a bit of breathing space to research exactly what you need, where you need it, and sidestep the mistake I made when I had air con fitted in my home.

Another plus point is that, by installing air conditioning in autumn, you also avoid having your annual service rolling around during those busy summer months, where it may be difficult to pin down an air con engineer.

3. You can use it for heating

This one is a biggie. There is a huge misconception that air conditioning can only be used for cooling, but many systems can provide both heating and cooling, which makes them useful for much more of the year than just the occasional heatwave.

'Air conditioning (also known as air-to-air heat pumps) offers homeowners the perfect solution to manage unwanted heat in summer and drawing it in during the winter, to help provide year-round comfort,' explains Hamid. 'Air-to-air units allow you to control the climate room-by-room, helping maintain the perfect temperature, particularly in rooms that are harder to keep warm and comfortable.'

By installing your air con system in the autumn, you'll be ready to use the heating side by the time the temperatures really drop. This means you have more control over heating just the room you are in, rather than unnecessarily heating the whole house, which can have a positive effect on your heating bills.

4. The weather is just right

It can take the best part of a day to get air con installed with a good portion of the work taking place outside. More complex installations may take longer.

When it comes to optimum conditions, early autumn is ideal as temperatures are still relatively mild and there are still enough daylight hours for your installer to benefit from.

Undecided about getting air con fitted? I've weighed up the pros and cons of fitted vs portable air conditioning to help you choose the right option for your home and budget.

With another heatwave taking hold, more and more people will be thinking about effective ways they can keep their homes as cool as possible. After all, our homes are designed to keep the heat in and so they can feel like ovens when temperatures reach the high 20s and above.

Now more accessible than ever before, homeowners may be wondering whether fitted air conditioning is worth it in the UK, given that it's a really effective way to carve out a comfortable cool space at home.

I'm fortunate enough to have tried both portable and fitted air conditioning at home, and am very grateful that I have a space at home where I can escape when temperatures rise beyond the point of comfort.

However, hindsight is a wonderful thing. And now that I have had air con for a couple of months, there's one thing I wish I'd done differently so I could reap even more benefits from the installation. If you're thinking of having air conditioning installed, I hope my experience helps you make the best decision for your home.

What I wish I had done differently when having air con installed at home

The only thing I wish I had done differently when having air con installed at home is opting for a multi-split instead of a single-split system, so I could enjoy air conditioning in more than one room.

If you've seen my BOXT air conditioning review, you'll know how transformative fitted air conditioning has been for me. As someone who isn't very heat tolerant and works from home, heatwaves have always filled me with anxiety as I try to keep myself and my dog cool. In the past, this means closed curtains and strategically placed fans, not to mention the bad moods and struggles with concentration.

But after having air conditioning installed in my living room, I no longer feel like I'm living in a cave when the mercury rises, and the heatwave dread has lessened dramatically. However, I do wish that I had opted for a multi-split system so I could have air conditioning in the master bedroom too.

After all, once you've spent time in a lovely and comfortably cool space, trying to sleep in a room that feels like Satan's armpit is a tough adjustment.

On the hottest nights, I can set up a quite comfortable bed on the living room floor (I have this Amazon floor mattress which costs from £89.99) to guarantee a good night's sleep, but there's nothing quite like your own bed. Plus, when a heatwave extends into multiple days, there seems little point putting a makeshift bed away completely (only to get it all out again a few hours later), and so it easily makes your home feel cluttered.

Is a multi-split air conditioning system worth it?

If we look at this purely from a comfort point of view, then I think a multi-split air conditioning system is a no-brainer. Once you've enjoyed the comfort it brings in one room, it's very difficult to not want your whole house to feel like that. These systems can provide heat too, which gives them year-round purpose (and allow you to just heat the room you're in, rather than using your central heating, which could be more cost-effective in winter).

However there are other important factors to consider.

• Installation. It's best to know exactly where you want the air con installed right off the bat so that your outdoor unit has suitable capacity. If you opt for a single-split system for one room, and down the line want to have air con in more rooms, you will need to replace the outdoor unit for a more powerful one, as well as buying the additional internal units.
• Upfront cost. This will be the key deciding factor for most people. Fitted air con is great and super-effective, but it's also more expensive to buy than other cooling options you could consider, like the best fans or best portable air conditioners. A single-split system, comprising of one indoor and one outdoor unit is understandably the most affordable, while multi-split systems, with the more powerful outdoor unit and multiple indoor units will be more expensive.
• Running costs. Both fitted and portable air conditioning cost more to run than a standard fan, but for those who struggle in the heat, this can be money well spent. While there are ways to use a fitted air conditioning system in the most economical way, these running costs are likely to rise if you have it in more than one room (and especially if the indoor units are used at the same time).

Ultimately, whether a multi-split air conditioning system is worth it will depend on your budget and your heat tolerance.

If your budget will only stretch to a single-split system, my advice would be to install it in a room that has the most potential to be multi-purpose. For me, this was the living room. I can hang out, work and sleep in this space with a few tweaks, which will comfortably see me through a heatwave.

However, if your budget allows, a multi-split system will ensure those sweaty nights are a thing of the past. Just remember that there is a compromise you'll need to make when you have air conditioning installed. For me, this compromise was utterly worth it.

Heating experts have revealed the three summer boiler mistakes that can make your home feel hot and stuffy during summer - and luckily for you, they’re easy to rectify.

With yet another heatwave here in the UK, it can feel exhausting trying to find new ways to keep a room cool, yet these boiler mistakes could be contributing to your house being hotter than it needs to be.

While you can invest in the best fan you could be fighting a losing battle by keeping your boiler on winter settings, not having your hot water on a timer or having your water too hot. All three of these factors will contribute to making your home feel warmer in summer.

1. You're still on winter settings

‘One of the most common oversights I see is leaving the boiler on its winter settings well into the summer months, which means the central heating circuit can still activate even when it’s not needed. This is often because the programmer hasn’t been switched to a summer mode, so the boiler continues to circulate hot water through radiators unnecessarily, creating a subtle but constant source of heat that builds up indoors,’ explains Stephen Day, a Heating Engineer at iHeat.

On modern boilers you can typically find two settings, ‘winter’ and ‘summer’ so it’s as easy as flicking a switch to ensure you’re on summer mode. Alternatively, check your manufacturers manual for instructions, or you can switch your boiler to ‘hot water only’ if you have a combi boiler.

2. Your water isn't on a timer

Another factor that may be causing your home to feel more stuffy is having your hot water on when you don’t need it.

‘Many households keep their system as it is to be able to access boiling water constantly, even when they’re out for the day or they’re on holiday. By using timers and schedules to match your actual household usage, you’ll be avoiding overheating the house when it isn’t needed,’ says Ryan Willdig, heating expert at Heatforce.

This can cause excess heat as the boiler has to maintain the temperature in the hot water cylinder all day which can make your boiler cupboard air airing cupboard feel like a sauna.

3. Your water is too hot

Another contributing factor is that your water temperature is unnecessarily too high, which can make your house feel hot and even cost you more on energy bills.

‘Most combi boilers allow you to set the water temperature separately from your heating temperatures,’ says Ryan.

‘Keeping everything at full blast will mean scalding water from the taps and also extra heating radiating into your home. You want to aim for around 50 degrees in summer and nothing more.’

Beat the heat

If you're still struggling with the hot weather, here are a few more ways to beat the heat.

Your boiler is not the first thing you think of when thinking about hot summer weather. But remembering to check for these three mistakes could help your home feel cooler.

As another heatwave takes hold, it's no wonder that we're all trying to find effective ways to keep cool. And there's arguably nothing more effective than air conditioning — but should you go for one of the best portable air conditioners or opt for fitted air conditioning in your home?

As someone who has tried both options, I've compared their pros and cons, and asked an industry pro which is best.

Which is better - fitted or portable air con?

Both fitted and portable air con have their own set of advantages and drawbacks, so which is best will ultimately depend on how you want to use it, where you live and your budget.

Let's look at those pros and cons.

Pros and cons of fitted air conditioning

Fitted air conditioning systems involve the installation of an indoor and outdoor unit.

A single split system, with one indoor and outdoor unit, is sufficient to cool one room, but you'll need a multi-split system (which comprises of one suitably powerful outdoor unit, and multiple indoor units) if you want to cool more rooms.

Pros:

• Wall-mounted rather than floor-standing
• Can be used for heating as well as cooling, giving the system year-round purpose
• Not as expensive as you might think
• Once installed, no further set-up is needed
• Effective
• Easy, quick ordering and installation using companies like BOXT and iHeat.
• Quiet operation.

Cons:

• More expensive upfront cost than a portable unit
• Needs professional installation
• Could have higher running costs than a portable unit
• Needs annual servicing to keep it working optimally
• Not suitable for rentals
• You have to have a large unit installed outside
  • And those living in flats or apartments could face higher installation costs than those in houses due to the added complexity of installing that outdoor unit at height
• A permanent indoor unit will impact on the aesthetics of your home
• Can’t move it to different rooms.

Pros and cons of portable air con

Portable air conditioners have grown in popularity and often sell out whenever a heatwave hits. Along with the unit itself, your portable air conditioner will come with a large exhaust tube which is needed to expel the hot air out of the window.

As the window needs to be open to do this (which can seem a little counter-productive), you will need a window kit, like this bestselling AC window seal kit, £23.99 from Amazon, in order to create a seal around the open window to improve efficiency.

Units may have fan and dehumidifier modes too, but don't have a heating mode.

Pros:

• Can be moved to different rooms when needed
• Less expensive upfront cost compared to fitted air con
• Many models can also be used as a fan and dehumidifier
• Suitable for rentals
• No professional installation needed
• No outdoor unit needed

Cons:

• Often sell out during heatwaves
• Needs venting out of a window with the help of a window venting kit (and if you want to move it around your home with you, you will also need to move what you need in order to vent it out of another window).
• You'll need to set it up and vent it out of the window every time you want to use it
• Noisy to use
• Heavy to manoeuvre (especially up stairs)
• Only used in height of summer (and bulky to store)
• Floor-standing so can feel like clutter.

Should I go for fitted or portable air con?

In many cases, your circumstances might make the decision for you. If you are renting, it's unlikely you'll be able to opt for a fitted air con solution, in which case a portable air con unit is the way to keep you cool when temperatures rise.

Similarly, if you want a solution you can move around your home (albeit with the help of someone else), and having wall-mounted air conditioning in more than one room is out of your budget, then a portable unit is likely to be a better fit.

On the other hand, if the noise of a portable unit and its bulk puts you off, then a fitted solution could be much more up your street.

As someone who has tried both a portable air con unit and a fitted air conditioning system at home, for me there is one that has the edge over the other, and that's the fitted air conditioning system. I had BOXT air conditioning installed, and the quiet operation coupled with the wall-mounted indoor unit, make it a clear preference over the noisier portable unit that I would have to vent out of the window.

While it's not a portable option, I did install it in the living room which gives me the most flexibility. I can work, relax, entertain and sleep in the space, so I don't necessarily feel like I am missing out on not having AC in other rooms. (With hindsight, it was a bit of a mistake not to go for a multi-split system with a unit in the lounge and in the master bedroom).

I also really like that I can also use the AC for heating in the winter, as that year-round use makes a fixed option more viable.

While the permanent addition of an indoor and outdoor unit might be off-putting for some, I've found that the comfort it offers on scorching days and toasty nights more than makes up for the compromise I've had to make on aesthetics.

Which is more energy efficient?

Fitted air conditioning systems are more energy efficient than portable alternatives, requiring less output to achieve the same level of cooling. Portable units have to work harder and longer to cool to the same extent, so while they might seemingly have lower running costs, using them for longer and on a more powerful setting may actually end up costing you more.

Hamid Salimi, Residential Product Manager at Daikin UK, says: ‘What many people don’t realise is air conditioning provides the same environmentally friendly technology as a heat pump. Air conditioning systems offer a way to efficiently heat and cool a home using energy extracted from the outside air, by utilising renewable energy from the air, air conditioning runs on electricity, reducing the reliance on fossil fuels and lowering carbon emissions, contributing to a greener environment.‘

Is air conditioning necessary in the UK?

As summers get warmer and cooling solutions become more readily available, then you might be wondering whether fitted air conditioning is worth it. But as industry experts explain we can see air conditioning (also known as air-to-air heat pumps) becoming more commonplace in the UK.

Daikin UK's Hamid Salimi says: 'As the UK experiences hotter temperatures and more frequent heatwaves, homeowners are looking for new ways to future-proof their properties and maintain comfortable temperatures throughout the year.

‘Modern, well insulated homes are built to retain heat, meaning they are great for winter, but problematic in the summer,' he explains. 'The number of UK homes overheating in summer quadrupled to 80% over the past decade* encouraging the uptake in air conditioning as homeowners look for a solution to provide all year-round comfort.’

If you decide a fitted solution is right for your home and lifestyle, then the next step is to find out how much it costs to install air conditioning.

With another heatwave taking hold, finding effective ways to keep ourselves and our homes cool is paramount. But is fitted air conditioning worth it in the UK or is it a waste of money?

How much it costs to install air conditioning will depend on how many rooms you want it in and the complexity of the installation. But with high temperatures only lasting a few days at a time, and portable air conditioning options available, the expense of a built-in cooling solution might seem unnecessary. There are also rumours of an air conditioning ban doing the rounds, which is also making people nervous about committing to an installed system.

As someone who has recently fitted air con in my own home, I reached out to the experts to find out whether fitted air conditioning is worth the investment and whether we'll see it become the norm in the UK.

Is fitted air con worth it in the UK?

Whether fitted air conditioning is worth it in the UK will depend on a few different factors, including your budget, whether you rent or own your home and whether we are going to see continued heatwaves in the years to come. It also comes down to how well you can live in your home when it's hot.

Whenever a heatwave hits and homes overheat, it seems like everyone wonders whether they should splash out on getting air con installed to provide relief.

Often, we talk ourselves out of it, thinking that the relatively few days of intense heat we get each year don't quite warrant a permanent cooling solution.

But as average temperatures rise — England had its hottest June on record in 2025, according to the Met Office— and alert-triggering heatwaves are more commonplace, the more we are realising how our homes are ill-equipped to deal with the heat.

And more often than not, that leads to us wasting money on things that don't end up working as effectively as we want, as Adam Knight, lead engineer at BOXT explains: 'Our latest research found that over a quarter of Brits (28%) spend more than £300 every summer on short-term gimmicks like neck fans, cooling sprays and slushie machines - which might offer momentary relief but don’t actually cool the room you’re in. Fans simply move warm air around, whereas fitted AC offers real, consistent results, and it's more energy-efficient and quieter than many people expect, often making no more sound than a modern fridge.'

But now cooling solutions are more accessible and affordable than ever before, more and more people are using them to keep comfortable when a heatwave hits.

Portable air conditioners are popular and affordable choices, especially for those who rent their homes — they are less expensive to buy and run compared to a fitted system and have more flexibility given they can be moved around the home. But have their downsides too — they're noisy and their size and weight makes them challenging to move, especially up and down stairs.

Fitted air conditioning, on the other hand, is more expensive upfront and may cost more to run (although their effectiveness may mean you don't need them on as long, which will positively impact the running costs). Plus, these fitted AC systems have capabilities beyond cooling and therefore offering year-round benefits, which for many homeowners will tip the scale in terms of value for money.

As someone who has tried both fitted and portable air conditioning to stay cool, I absolutely think fitted air conditioning is worth it. It's quiet operation and effective cooling is a gamechanger during a heatwave, enough that I don't mind the impact it's had on the aesthetics of my home. Additionally, I love that the fitted unit can also be used for heating in the winter, or as a fan which keeps my living room floor and surfaces clutter free.

Although with hindsight, I did make one fitted air con mistake that I wish I could rectify.

How many homes in the UK have fitted air conditioning?

Speak to your friends and family, and right now, it's probably unlikely that the majority of you will have air conditioning fitted at home.

'Currently only 5% of UK homes are equipped with air conditioning, compared to a whopping 90% in the US - so we’ve a long way to go before the UK’s housing stock (a sixth of which dates back to pre-1900) is ready to face more frequent and intense heatwaves,' says Fernando de la Cruz Quintanilla, EMEA New Markets director at Airzone.

This is largely because unbearably high temperatures haven't been a regular occurrence, and affordable air con solutions haven't previously been that accessible.

But now the tables are turning. 'However, the UK is heading in the right direction, having seen a dramatic 63.4% increase in AC unit sales between 2023 and 2024 – the highest uptake increase across Europe that year,' adds Fernando.

Adam Knight agrees, saying: 'At BOXT, we’re seeing a sharp rise in demand and it’s a trend we expect to continue. AC installations are up 182% year-on-year, and in recent weeks, we’ve seen a surge in customers looking to get systems fitted fast, particularly taking advantage of our next-day installation service.'

Will fitted air conditioning become the norm in the UK?

'Air conditioning used to be considered a luxury in UK homes, but that perception is quickly changing,' continues BOXT's Adam Knight. 'As our summers get hotter and more unpredictable due to climate change, fitted AC is increasingly considered a smart, long-term investment in comfort and wellbeing.'

To help with affordability, installers like BOXT offer a range of financing options to suit all budgets. 'In return, you get year-round comfort, not just in summer, but also in winter, as many modern split AC systems can provide heating too,' says Adam. 'It’s also about quality of life: better sleep, a more productive working environment, and improved air quality in the home.'

Beyond adding AC to existing homes, we could see it becoming a part of the new build process. 'Looking ahead, the government’s Future Homes Standard is driving a more sustainable approach to home comfort, with an emphasis on low-carbon heating systems and better insulation,' explains Adam. 'It’s worth noting that air conditioning is just one part of the picture. Heat pumps, for instance, can both cool and heat a property, offering an eco-friendlier alternative that aligns with upcoming regulations.

'So yes, fitted AC is well on its way to becoming more common in UK homes, but it should always be part of a broader conversation about what works best for each property, now and in the future.'

FAQs

Does fitting air conditioning add value to your home?

While fitted air con may not actually add specific value to your home in the way an extension would, it could boost your home's marketability and desirability, which can help maximise what you can get for your property.

Even if the monetary value is hard to pin-point, for people like me who struggle to function when the mercury rises, having a cool and comfortable space to exist in when temperatures skyrocket can be utterly priceless.

It's worthwhile also understanding the best time to get air conditioning installed to ensure the smoothest process.

Do you need planning permission to add air conditioning to your home?

Whether or not you need planning permission to add fitted air con to your home will depend on where you live and the functionality of your air con unit.

If you live in a designated zone, like a Conservation Area or National Park, or a listed building, it's highly likely your permitted development rights will have been restricted, which means you will need to apply for planning permission.

However, if you don't live in an area or property like this, then provided your air con isn't solely used for the purpose of cooling, you should be able to install it within the scope of permitted development.

But planning rules can be complex, so it's always best to double check with your local authority before undertaking any work.

If you're renting and fitted air con is out of the question, take a look at our top-rated portable air conditioners that are still in stock.

I had air conditioning from BOXT installed in my living room, and reviewed the whole process to help you decide if this is the route for you.

If you've found that a portable air conditioner doesn't fit your needs, then a permanent solution might be what you need to ensure a comfortable temperature in your home year round.

In a nutshell

After building its name by offering hassle-free next day boiler replacements, BOXT has branched out into solar panels and batteries, heat pumps, EV chargers and air conditioning.

The quick and simple process is hugely appealing — answer a few questions about your home on the website, choose from the shortlist of products (and fixed prices) that BOXT have determined will meet your needs, and then book your installation as you pay.

If you're not sure which to choose, there is an online chat function or you can email or called the BOXT team so expert advice is never far away. Then you just upload a few photographs for the technical team to check over to make sure it's all suitable.

All in all, I think the time input on my part was less than 20 minutes (including the ordering process, taking the necessary pictures and any conversations around the installation), which is why I think those who don't have a lot of free time to dedicate to home upgrades like this will appreciate.

With BOXT, you pick your installation date to suit your schedule, which can be as soon as the next day, provided you place your order and submit your photographs by a certain time, and provided the technical team are happy the installation can go off without a hitch.

Ordering the air con

I really appreciated how easy the BOXT website was to use — I was clearly guided through the process, and there are helpful pictures and notes to help you understand why they are asking the question and what to do if your answer falls outside the multiple-choice answer options.

While some of the questions are super-straightforward, such as what type of property do you live in or how much sunlight does the room get, to answer others, you will need a little more information to hand.

Firstly, you'll need to have an idea of where you want the air conditioning to be installed. This will include how many rooms you want it installed in, and where you ideally want the indoor and outdoor unit installed.

Secondly, it's really helpful to have an idea of the area of the room(s) where you want the air con installed as this will help ensure you choose the right product with the right power output.

Lastly, you will need to measure how much space there is between the outside wall (where you want the outdoor air con unit) and the boundary of your property. This is to ensure the unit can be installed with sufficient air flow around it. You can also choose whether you want this unit to be floor mounted, wall-mounted low (both of which are included in the fixed price), or wall-mounted high (which will cost extra).

Once you have answered the nine questions and entered your postcode, you will find a page that lists all of the products that would be suitable for you, along with the prices and product specifications.

As I only wanted air conditioning in one room, there was only one option for me to choose from (a single-split Daikin Sensira) so it was an easy and quick choice. There were also multi-split options (for if you want air con in more than one room) from Bosch. These were the only two manufacturers available to choose from.

Arranging installation

Once you've chosen your air con unit, you need to go through to make the payment and book the installation. You can pay upfront or in instalments, and by credit or debit card, using Apple Pay or Google Pay, or using PayPal.

And the good news is you don't have long to wait. If you order before 3pm, you will likely be able to book installation for the next day. But be aware, if you do want it done the next day, you will need to submit photos for the technical team to have a look at straight after submitting your order. If you don't, your installation could be delayed.

But you don't have to choose a next day option, you can book installation for a date that suits you. I chose a date a couple of weeks from when I placed the order to give myself a bit of time.

I also opted for a Friday installation date, as to go for a weekend slot would cost £100 more.

As soon as I placed the order, I received an email asking me to submit my pictures (and you get a daily reminder until you've done it). You can either click on the link in the email to upload your pictures or you can download the BOXT app and upload them through there. I chose the app.

If you're worried that you don't know what pictures to send, then the good news is that as soon as you click through to upload the pictures, you are given the specifics of what you need to send, including example images showing what is helpful and unhelpful to the technical team.

In my case, I needed to submit a picture of:

• The outside wall where the unit would be installed
• The indoor wall where the internal unit would be installed
• My electricity meter
• My fuse board
• The front of my house.

Over the next couple of days I had a couple of phone calls from BOXT's technical team regarding the installation. As I wanted the indoor unit installed above the fireplace (which is never used), we needed to make sure it was capped off in order to be safe.

BOXT were really clear and helpful explaining my options (without resorting to technical jargon) and made sure that everything was set ahead of the installation day.

I was also informed about who was coming to fit the air con (an air con installer and an electrician) and when I could expect them to arrive. The day before, I also received texts from the air con installer and electrician, who had a couple of extra questions and confirmed their ETA.

What was the installation process like?

The night before the installation I made sure to clear the space around where the air con would be installed both inside and out to ensure the installers had sufficient space to work without worrying about damage to my belongings.

On installation day, all of the kit was delivered to my house and arrived just before the installers. It came in three cardboard boxes, one for the outdoor unit, one for the indoor unit, and another with all the fixtures and fittings. (All of the packaging was removed by the installers, so I wasn't left with a full recycling bin or having to make a trip to the tip!)

Both installers (Luke and Connor) were super friendly, and talked me through what they needed to do and were prepared to answer any questions I had. Any installers working for BOXT are vetted, scored and audited, so I felt reassured that they would do a good job.

When it came to installing the air con units, I was consulted about where specifically I wanted them. For the indoor unit, this was pretty straightforward, as I wanted it to sit centrally above the (now-defunct) fireplace.

For the outdoor unit, which is located in the fenced-in side access to my garden where I keep my bins), I was keen to ensure that I could still manoeuvre my bins as I needed to, and had enough space to open the gate and move through to the garden without any hassle. Connor listened to my requests and suggested the perfect place. He also suggested wall-mounting it to avoid any trip hazard.

I also wanted to keep anything visible from the street to a minimum, and so Connor made sure that most of the trunking (that covers the pipework from the internal unit to the external unit) was mostly installed below the fence level.

It took a couple of hours to fit the indoor unit, which involved drilling a hole through to the outside to pass the pipework through, and installing metal brackets to attach the indoor unit to. Dust sheets were put up, and every effort was made to keep mess to a minimum. and both installers cleaned up after themselves so well there wasn't a trace they had ever been here!

The outside work took another couple of hours, and then the air con was checked by the installer before I was given a detailed tutorial of how to use it and an explanation of the different modes. I was also advised on how to maintain it and when to get it serviced (annually is best to ensure you get the maximum lifespan).

What's the air con like to use?

My BOXT installer made sure I understood how to use my new air con. The Daikin Sensira does more than just cool, it also works as a heater, dehumidifier and fan, which takes it's purpose way beyond the relatively few heatwaves we might have each year.

It's largely operated using a remote control, but there are also little fins to direct the air flow that you can adjust manually, via a little tab on the unit itself.

Fan-wise, you have five different speeds (the higher the speed the noisier it becomes, similar to an in-car air conditioning system). There is also a whisper-quiet speed that is virtually undetectable, yet still offers effective cooling. When in air con mode, this is the fan option I use most often.

When it comes to temperature, in cooling mode, it goes down as low as 18°C, but I find 22°C to be the most pleasant temperature (it kept me plenty cool even when it was 30°C outside). In heat mode, you can go up to 30°C. There's also an auto mode, where the unit will heat and cool to a specified temperature, a dehumidifier mode, and a comfort mode that uses a sensor on the indoor unit to keep the air flow away from people in the room (so they don't feel like they are sitting in a draft.

In addition there is a timer function, that would be incredibly useful for nighttime use in bedroom installations.

Is BOXT air conditioning worth it?

If you want to upgrade your home with built-in air con, then using BOXT is a quick and simple way to achieve that. For me, it was completely hassle-free, although some installations may be more complex than others and may involve more involvement from a technical point of view.

As well as being an ideal solution for those who are time poor, going through the questionnaire was really easy, and I feel confident that older generations would be able to navigate the process too.

While there's not loads of involvement needed from the customer throughout, the team at BOXT make sure they communicate regularly, and there are multiple channels you can use to make contact and get a quick answer to any questions you have or to find any support you might need.

The simplicity and speed of the process are definite huge pros to using BOXT, but the absolute winner for me was the standard of the customer service. Not only was everyone I encountered along the way incredibly friendly, knowledgeable and helpful, but the installers obviously took pride in what they were doing and were incredibly conscientious about leaving my home spick and span once the work was complete.

When it comes to the air con itself, it's been an absolute game changer. My house was prone to overheating, which made heatwaves intolerable. Now I have a space where I can control the environment and ensure a comfortable space year round, regardless of what the weather is doing outside.

While I highly recommend getting air con installed at home, especially when it has purpose beyond a summer heatwave, it's worth just preparing yourself for a compromise you'll need to make.

If the heatwave we've been experiencing has made up your mind that you need a permanent cooling solution at home, then one of the deciding factors will be finding out know how much it costs to install air conditioning, and what kind of ongoing costs you might face.

While one of the best portable air conditioners is an option, these can be noisy to use, heavy to move and need venting out of a window.

A built-in air conditioning solution, on the other hand, can offer quiet operation and keep windows and floor unencumbered, but you will have to carefully consider the aesthetic compromise you will need to make with a permanent installation.

To help you weigh up your options, I've spoken to the air con experts and share my personal experience of having air con installed at home (read my full BOXT air conditioning review) to help you understand what kind of price you can expect to pay, and ultimately whether it's worth it.

How much does it cost to install air conditioning?

'Installing air conditioning in a single room in the UK usually falls between £1,500 and £2,500, depending on the unit type and how complex the job is. Wall-mounted units are often the go-to as they're quicker and more straightforward to install,' says Stephen Day, home cooling expert at iHeat. 'That price includes both the unit and professional installation, which typically takes about four hours if the setup is straightforward.

If you want to source the single split kit (comprising of one indoor unit and one outdoor unit) and labour separately, Stephen says you can expect to pay between £150-200 per day, but this can go up if you want multiple units installed and if the installation is more complex.

How does the price increase if you want air con in more rooms?

To install air conditioning in more than one room, you will need a multi-split system. This will include a sufficiently powerful outdoor unit and multiple indoor units, which will understandably come at a higher cost.

Stephen adds: 'A multi-split system that covers two to three rooms might come in around £3,000 to £5,000, depending on the setup. If you're cooling four to six rooms, especially with more advanced units or tricky layouts, costs can reach £9,000 or more.'

What kind of ongoing costs can you expect with air conditioning?

The biggest ongoing cost for a permanent air conditioning system will be the electricity is takes to run it.

A single split system with a 3.5kW outdoor unit will cost around 91p per hour to run (based on the energy price cap for electricity being 26.11p per kWh between 1 July and 30 September 2026), but being tactical about how you use your air con will help to keep these costs under control. Blasting the air on full on the coldest temperature setting in the height of summer will cost more than if you choose a slower fan speed and warmer temperature.

Similarly, keeping doors and windows closed while your air con is running will ensure you keep the air you generate contained where you want it.

It'll also be important to keep your air con properly maintained to ensure it's running in the most efficient way, and to avoid any costly issues.

Use our calculator to work out the running costs of more powerful systems. All you need to know is the wattage.

Stephen says: 'An annual service, usually priced between £60 and £120, typically includes vital checks on refrigerant levels, filter condition, and overall system health, which can prevent bigger problems from cropping up unexpectedly.

'If regular maintenance is overlooked, it can unfortunately result in issues such as compressor failures or leaks in the system, which can cost as much as £1,500 to resolve.'

Your installer will also show you how to keep the filters clean, which will also keep the system running as smoothly and as energy-efficiently as possible. If and when the filters need replacing, this can cost around £10-20 depending on the make and model of your unit.

How can you reduce the cost of getting air conditioning installed?

While opting for a permanent air conditioning system is an investment, there are ways that you can ensure you are not paying more than you need to:

• Decide from the outset which rooms you want air con in to avoid having to make expensive changes down the line
• Choose the right size unit for your space. Adam Knight, Lead Engineer at BOXT, says: 'A smaller output will typically be cheaper to install and could be more cost-effective to run, but if the unit is too small, it won’t be able to cool or heat your space properly. Finding the right size ensures your system runs efficiently without wasting energy.'
• Go for the most energy efficient model you can afford to keep ongoing energy costs as low as possible
• Improve your home's insulation. Adam Knight explains: 'If cool air is escaping through poorly sealed windows or doors, your system will have to work harder and use more energy.'
• Pair your air conditioning with solar power. 'Solar panels can provide a clean, renewable source of electricity for your AC system, reducing your running costs significantly,' says Adam. 'Modern units can also double as heaters in the winter, so you’re getting year-round value from a single investment.'
• In homes that are prone to overheating, you can always combine the installation with other measures, such as sun-reflecting window films and blackout blinds, so the air conditioning doesn't have to work as hard to cool the space.

It's also worth considering the best time to install air conditioning where it may be more cost-effective.

Is air conditioning worth it?

As someone who has air con installed at home and has just been through the first 30°C heatwave of the summer, I absolutely think it's worth it. Before having it installed, I would hide away with the curtains closed and wait for temperatures to become more tolerable again. Plus, the mere thought of trying to keep myself and my dog cool while trying to work from home during a heatwave would fill me with utter dread. Now, I know that there is one room where we can get some respite from high temperatures and exist comfortably and safely.

If, like me, you struggle with the heat then I don't think you will ever regret spending the money to get air con installed. It not only makes your home feel better, but you feel better in it. Built-in air con is whisper quiet, especially on the lowest fan speed setting, which can make it preferential to a portable unit (especially if you or someone you live with are sound sensitive).

If you're worried about forking out thousands for comfort on a few days a year, then the good news is air con could be the ideal solution to provide year round comfort in your home. In addition to air cooling and conditioning capabilities, these units can also come with fan and dehumidifier modes as well as heat settings to keep you warm in winter without having to rely on your central heating.

While you have to have a sizable unit installed both indoors and out, for me this was a willing compromise, it may actually help your home feel less cluttered. After all, there's no need for any additional floor or desktop fans, when you have an air con unit on the wall.

Find out if air conditioning is worth it in the UK, and whether fitted air con is better that a portable solution.

I'm sure I'm not alone when I say that I love a heatwave for a couple of days, and then the novelty well and truly wears off. I've actually been told by numerous friends and family that my entire personality changes during a heatwave (and not necessarily for the better).

My house tends to overheat and I get hot weather anxiety, dreading trying to work from home and keep myself and my dog cool. While keeping windows and curtains closed, and having one of the best fans on all day have seen me through for the last 10 years, it's far from how I want to enjoy my home.

I didn't get on with a portable air conditioner due to the noise level, and so when the opportunity came to have air con installed, I jumped at the chance (check out for my full review). While this used to be reserved for commercial use, it's more readily available and more affordable than ever before.

Despite researching it for a couple of years before the installation took place, I hadn't fully comprehended a major compromise I would have to make. While it's one I'm willing to make, I urge you to give it careful consideration before opting for air con in your own home.

The air con compromise

During my research, I'd seen some installation pictures and diagrams, but it's sometimes quite difficult to translate these to your own home. If you are thinking of having air con installed to help ensure a comfortable level despite rising temperatures outside, then my best advice would be to understand the balance you'll need to find between the desire to keep cool and your home's appearance.

You will need to have a sizeable unit installed inside, and a larger one outside, which will have a significant impact on how your home looks. In my case, this was a compromise I was willing to make in order to have a room where I could escape from high temperatures when I needed to.

The outdoor unit sits on the side of my house in a fenced-in space that isn't part of the garden, so it's pretty hidden from my and my neighbour's view at all times. I still have space to store my bins and access the garden, which were my top priorities here.

But it's an important consideration to make before you take the plunge. The outdoor unit is about the size of a large suitcase and needs to have space around it to ensure adequate air flow. Depending on the room(s) you want air con installed in, this may be floor mounted, wall mounted low, or wall mounted higher up. You'll need to carefully consider how you will feel about that impact on your home's appearance.

The biggest compromise for me comes from the indoor unit that is fixed to the inside of that same wall. It sits pronounced from the wall by 23cm, is 77cm wide and 29cm tall. So it's a significant size and undoubtedly has an impact on the aesthetics of the room.

Is the compromise worth it?

For me, the cooling, conditioning and heating benefits the air con brings, for me, outweighs the effect of having an air con unit front and centre. My heatwave anxiety has drastically reduced, and even just two weeks in, I find my eyes are no longer being drawn to the unit as soon as I enter the room.

My plan is also to change up my wall art and ornament placement to help add some intentionality around it so it feels more in keeping with the rest of the room. Moreover, I decided not to have the remote control for the air con mounted on the wall (which felt office-like) and instead store it with the TV remotes in this Bronx remote holder, £16 from Next.

Better still, being able to take the standing fan out of my living room (which always felt in the way) makes the space feel less cluttered.

However, I realise not everyone will feel the same. If that aesthetic impact is too much of a price to pay, then you should steer clear and try alternative solutions to keep your house cool. Keeping windows and curtains closed, trying a heat reflective window film, or strategically placing your fan for the most effective results are all other handy methods to keep cool during the heatwave.

If you are considering a permanent cooling solution, you'll need to know how much it costs to install air conditioning early on.

If you’re looking for a cheap but quality fan to keep you cool this summer, look no further. Argos’s Bush White Tower Fan (£24) is Argos’s current best-selling fan and has five-star reviews to back it up.

Investing in one of the best fans is no doubt one of the best ways to keep cool over summer, but being a seasonal buy, I doubt you want to splash loads of cash. Currently discounted from £30 to £24, the Bush tower is an excellent, affordable option. It’s both quiet and will keep you cool all summer long.

It's also a best-seller, with Argos reporting sales for this fan are up 534% since last week, so you'll have to be quick if you want to get your hands on one.

Temperatures are set to soar across the country this week, and if you’ve landed on this page, I can guarantee you’re looking for ways to stay cool. Now, investing in a fan won’t reduce a room’s temperature as one of the best portable air conditioners does. But it will keep air circulating in your home, keeping you cooler in the process.

The Bush tower fan has three speed settings and a choice between static and oscillating air flow. You can even set it to a two-hour timer, meaning this fan can adapt to your needs as the weather inevitably changes throughout the summer.

This fan is 28 inches in height, making it a great choice for small living rooms, bedrooms and home offices as it will not dominate a space. It also comes with a manufacturer's one-year guarantee.

‘I bought this fan many years ago, and at the time we bought it because we were in a pinch and needed something cheap and cheerful during a heatwave - but I’m amazed at how well it’s stood the test of time,’ says Lauren Bradbury, Content Editor and Certified Expert in Training on Vacuums for Ideal Home.

‘It’s super easy to use and offers impressive cooling power, and the shape and size of it mean that it can be tucked in a corner when it’s not in use. And although I’ve recently upgraded to the Shark TurboBlade fan for my bedroom, I still keep this one on-hand for those particularly hot days in my home office and living room!’

Lauren’s not the only one impressed as this fan has lots of happy reviews praising the fan for being both high-quality and a great price, with one even stating ‘it works better than expected.’

But, if you’re not convinced by this £24 bargain buy, here are a few more top-rated fans in the Argos sale to choose from.

Will you be testing out this affordable fan? Or, do you have better methods for keeping cool?

While you may assume that you need to call a plumber to get the job done, it’s very easy to learn how to remove a radiator. And it's a good nugget of information to have in your back pocket, too.

As Nicholas Auckland at Trade Radiators, explains, ‘There are many reasons why you might need/want to remove a radiator, including removal for decorating and removing permanently to clear the space.’ And while you can paint behind a radiator, it’s fair to say that you don’t get the same effect. In some cases, it’s downright impossible to decorate when the radiator is still on the wall.

So, if you want a flawless paint finish, wallpaper a room, or plaster your walls, all you need to do is follow this step-by-step guide to remove a radiator. You can use this guide to replace a radiator, too.

What you'll need

• Adjustable spanner - like this STANLEY MAXSTEEL Adjustable Wrench from Amazon
• Flathead screwdriver - or this WORKPRO 6 Pieces Screwdriver Set from Argos
• Radiator bleed key - like this Rothenberger Radiator key, Pack of 2 from B&Q
• Plastic bowls or containers - like these Set of 2 Plastic Mixing Bowls from Amazon
• Old towels or sheets

Step-by-step

1. Turn off your heating and protect your surroundings

Removing a radiator isn’t a difficult job, but it can be dangerous if you don’t take the right precautions. That’s why you should always turn off your heating before starting. Then, wait until it’s fully cooled to avoid injury and prevent unwanted burns.

After you protect yourself, you should then protect your surroundings, as tinkering with radiators in any way can be a messy job.

Nicholas advises, ‘Lay an old towel or sheet under the radiator to catch any potential spills. You could also place plastic containers under the valves, as these will also help to collect any escaping water, which makes cleanup easier.’

2. Isolate and bleed the radiator

When you’re sure the radiator you want to remove is cool, and any excess water won’t ruin your carpets, you should then isolate your radiator. Ryan McNicholl at plumbing parts supplier Spares Direct, explains, ‘Isolating your radiator will prevent water from flowing into or out of the radiator during the removal process.’

To do this, Ryan advises, ‘Locate your radiator valves, typically located on either side of the radiator. If you have thermostatic radiator valves, turn the dial clockwise to zero. For manual valves, turn the valve clockwise as far as it will go, and if you have lockshield valves, remove the plastic cap and turn the valve clockwise using an adjustable spanner, making note of how many turns so that you can reset the new radiator at the same flow rate.’

And while this step will stop the water from entering the radiator, it’s still not safe to remove your radiator just yet. Before you move on to the next task, you need to bleed your radiator and listen out for the hissing sound as the air inside the radiator escapes. When that stops, and a small amount of water starts to dribble out, you can stop.

3. Loosen the valve nuts

As radiators need to be connected to your whole central heating system, you can’t pull a radiator off the wall without disconnecting the valve nuts first. If you try, you won’t get very far.

That’s why Nicholas says to, ‘Use an adjustable spanner to loosen the nuts connecting the radiator to the valves. Some water may still be inside, so be prepared for minor spills. Loosen the nuts until you hear a clicking sound, which signals they are fully undone.’

4. Lift the radiator off the wall

Once the above steps are completed, you can then remove the radiator by lifting it away from the brackets that anchor it to the wall. Of course, radiators aren’t exactly light – so this will probably be a two-person job.

As there may be some residual water left in the radiator, you may also want to tilt the radiator towards a container or bucket on the floor to expel any water from the outlets. If you don’t have the strength to do that, there is another option.

Nicholas says, ‘If you haven't drained the radiator, cap or block the valve openings using radiator valve caps or a temporary solution like a plastic bag secured with a rubber band. This will prevent the radiator from leaking.’

Then, you can go about your decorating without having to worry about a radiator getting in the way.

5. If needed, replace the radiator and brackets

Most people will only need to know how to remove a radiator for the sake of painting it or general home maintenance, but there may come a time when you need to cough up the cost to replace a radiator, too. If that’s the case, Ryan suggests you ‘Ensure there are no cracks or crumbling plaster on the wall where you intend to hang it. If so, repairs will need to be made before fitting the radiator.’

During this inspection stage, you should also check to see if you need to replace the brackets. ‘It is likely that the old brackets are no longer compatible with the new radiator, so you may need to unscrew these and fill them in,’ Ryan says.

He adds, ‘Then fit the brackets to the wall and sit your new radiator into the brackets. Attach the new radiator to the existing pipework and tighten the nuts with an adjustable wrench.’

You’ll then have to work backwards to get this new radiator working by opening the valves, bleeding the radiator, and then de-isolating the radiator.

FAQs

Can you remove a radiator yourself?

Yes, it’s definitely possible to remove a radiator yourself! As long as you have basic plumbing knowledge and know how to turn off your central heating system, you should be able to follow the steps to remove a radiator successfully.

However, if you’re a novice when it comes to moderate DIY, it might be better to call a professional plumber to ensure you don’t do anything wrong.

Can you remove a radiator without draining the system?

Although most experts would advise that you drain the system before removing a radiator, it is possible to remove a radiator without doing so - it’s just a little more complicated. Nicholas from Trade Radiators says, ‘Instead of loosening the valve nuts until they're fully undone, undo the nuts connecting the radiator to the valves until they are fully loosened but still attached.

He adds, ‘You will then need to carefully lift the radiator off its brackets and lower it so that the top edge rests on the floor. The radiator should still be connected to the valves, forming a gentle slope. Once the water has pooled at the top, fully unscrew the valve nuts and disconnect the radiator. Lift it upright and move it safely away, but be mindful of any residual water.’

While you’re on the radiator bandwagon, you might want to balance your radiators while you’re at it. After all, when was the last time you did that?

This Dunelm 2000W Contemporary Round 9 Fin Oil Filled Radiator review puts this oil-filled radiator to the test to see if it has the power to heat a home in the middle of winter without driving up energy bills.

After testing, I think it's one of the best oil-filled radiators you can buy today. Especially if you’re on a budget.

In a nutshell

The 2000W Contemporary Round 9 Fin Oil Filled Radiator may not have come from a big-name oil-filled radiator brand, but it can certainly compete with the big dogs. Offering a stylish and compact design, three heat settings, a thermostat and castor wheels for everyday portability, it can successfully act as an additional heater or replace your radiators when you want to save energy and keep your heating off.

As I unboxed the product, it was clear to see that it’s not the prettiest type of heater you can buy - especially compared to some of the best electric heaters - but in terms of oil-filled heaters (which are generally quite unattractive), it’s certainly not the ugliest.

Plus, the heat output was impressive no matter which room I tested it in, successfully heating up a space that had had the radiators turned off the night before (in the middle of winter) and keeping a larger living space at a constant temperature throughout the day.

And while the controls do take a little bit of getting used to, by the second or third use it had just become part of my everyday appliance routine.

2000W Contemporary Round 9 Fin Oil Filled Radiator product specs

• Energy use: 2000W
• Temperature settings: 3 heat settings (800W, 1200W, or 2000W)
• Dimensions: H 65.5cm x W 43cm x D 13.5cm
• Weight: 6kg
• Thermostat: Yes
• Timer: No
• Auto tip over shut off: Yes
• RRP: £59

Unboxing, setting up and first impressions

The Dunelm 2000W Contemporary Round 9 Fin Oil Filled Radiator was delivered extremely quickly, and as someone who receives a lot of parcels every week, I didn’t have to do any guesswork as to what this particular parcel was. The branding and the product name were clear as day on the packaging - which was, unfortunately, slightly damaged (but not so much that it damaged the product inside).

From the box alone, I was impressed. It was incredibly light and extremely slim - something I was eager to see after recently testing the very slim AENO Premium Eco Smart Panel Heater just a few weeks earlier. Not only that, but it was also encased in minimal packaging. In fact, aside from the main delivery box and a smaller box for the castor feet and the wheel plates, there was no other packaging present. So, it scored major eco points from me.

The only thing I will say is that the oil-filled radiator comes without the feet on it, which means it’s impossible to stand it upright while you’re getting the smaller box of components out of the main box. This is something I learned the hard way when the whole thing fell on my foot and left a very nasty bruise on my foot (and my ego). However, it didn’t take me long to pop the feet - albeit with the help of my husband.

To do this, all we had to do was turn the oil-filled radiator upside down and attach the castors to the wheel plates using the domed nuts which are supplied. You then have to tighten them with a spanner, which, annoyingly, isn’t supplied.

While it wasn’t difficult, I will say that it’s perhaps a two-person job if you want to get the assembly done and dusted quickly and efficiently. So, this is something to consider if you’re buying it solo or are buying it for elderly relatives.

Design

By all intents and purposes, oil-filled radiators aren’t pretty. They’re often very big and clunky, and the obvious fins make them impossible to hide. In fact, I typically tend to lean more towards the modern, digital oil-filled radiators like the Pro Breeze 2000W Digital Oil-Free Radiator with Eco Mode as the fins aren’t as prominent, and it looks a bit more like one of the best electric heaters instead.

However, I do have to say that this Dunelm oil-filled radiator is more stylish than most. The contemporary look adds some curves to what are often very harsh and brutal appliances, and the black colourway I tested adds a sense of sophistication to the overall look. It’s also available in grey and cream - but I do think that Dunelm would benefit from having a white colourway as well.

I also LOVED the fact that this Dunelm oil-filled radiator comes with cord storage on the side. This makes it so easy to store and move around the home, and means you can tuck it away without tripping on the cord or stepping on the plug when it’s not in use.

Ease of use

The controls of oil-filled radiators tend to fall into one of two categories; digital and manual. And while you’d assume that digital controls are easier, almost every oil-filled radiator on the market is confusing when it comes to the controls - and the Dunelm 2000W Contemporary Round 9 Fin Oil Filled Radiator is no different.

In total, there are two dials on this model - the main heat setting switch (with 0 indicating that it’s turned off, Ⅰ indicating low heat, Ⅱ indicating medium heat, and Ⅲ indicating high heat), and the temperature thermostat - and both require a simple turn clockwise to turn the oil-filled radiator on and to crank up the thermostat. A red light will then turn on.

However, there are no numbers on the thermostat or any indication of what temperature you want to turn it to. Instead, the only way to control the temperature of this particular model is to turn the thermostat anti-clockwise until the red light extinguishes. It will then maintain that temperature until you want to turn it off completely.

But without any numbers on the dial, I had no indicator of what temperature the thermostat was at during testing - and as someone who always runs cold, I felt as though I probably kept it up higher than it needed to. In fact, one day my husband came home and complained that it was sweltering hot in the living room.

So, I would appreciate a little indicator of temperature. And while it wasn’t rocket science to work out how to use it, I do wish oil-filled radiators (as a whole) would make the user experience a little easier.

Performance

To measure the performance of the Dunelm oil-filled radiator, I wanted to see how well it would fare in a very cold room. So, the night before I planned to use it for the first time I turned the radiators off in my home office and shut the door so the heat from other rooms wouldn’t waft over.

By morning, my office was freezing cold (for my liking, anyway) and had dropped to around 14℃, so I turned the oil-filled radiator on and waited for the magic to happen.

I know some oil-filled radiators can be noisy, so I was pleasantly surprised to see/hear that this one was relatively quiet. It was also extremely quick to heat up. And just ten minutes after I’d turned it on, it was already too hot to touch.

Because of this, it wasn’t too long before it had greeted the whole room, and it was about 45 minutes before I felt comfortable enough to turn the thermostat down to where it would maintain this temperature. During this time, I didn’t ever feel the need to turn my radiators back on.

However, I like to test products on multiple occasions and in multiple rooms to get a better judgment on them, so I continued to use it over the next two weeks in my living room and even in the bedroom. For my small home - where no room is bigger than 3.5mx3.5m, it was more than enough to take the chill off the space when the central heating was on. Especially as you can increase and decrease the heat output to suit you throughout the day.

The only thing I will say is that the electrical cord is quite short, and although the instruction manual told me to keep it as far away from furniture and soft furnishings as possible, the short lead proved to be a little too short - even in my small home. So, I do feel as though those with larger homes may struggle with the positioning, which may ultimately affect the heat output. After all, the closer you are to it, the more you get to make the most of it.

However, the cord storage on the side of the oil-filled radiator was a nice touch, and allowed me to tuck the whole thing away when I was finished and wanted to roll it out of sight on the castor wheels.

Energy use

Ultimately, the cost to run an oil-filled radiator depends on the wattage of the model you have and the current price of electricity. At the time of writing and according to the current energy price cap, the Dunelm 2000W Contemporary Round 9 Fin Oil Filled Radiator cost me 50p per hour to run.

This is similar to the claims made by Dunelm that this particular model should cost around 45p per hour. And while it’s not the cheapest electric heater to run, it’s certainly not the most expensive, either.

Plus, a major perk of the oil-filled radiator vs ceramic heater debate is that oil-filled radiators will turn themselves off when the desired temperature has been reached - or at least maintain a constant temperature. This means that it doesn’t waste energy when you don’t need it, which can save you some pennies in the long run.

How does it rate online?

The Dunelm 2000W Contemporary Round 9 Fin Oil Filled Radiator rates extremely highly online, and at the time of writing, it has over 150 reviews with an average score of 4.4 stars out of 5. Customers praise how quickly the oil-filled radiator heats up, how quickly it can heat smaller areas of the home, how cheap it is to run, and the fact that it’s easily transportable.

However, some have criticised the overall size of the Dunelm oil-filled radiator and stated that it’s not as suitable for larger spaces as it is for smaller ones.

How does it compare to similar models?

In terms of appearance, the Dunelm Contemporary Round 9 Fin Oil Filled Radiator is most similar to the VonHaus 6 Fin 800W Oil Filled Radiator, which offers the similar black colourway and the very obvious fins. However, that’s where the similarities end. For starters, the Dunelm oil-filled radiator offers more power (with a max power of 2000W instead of the VonHaus’s 800W), more temperature settings (three instead of the VonHaus’s one), and fins (nine fins instead of the VonHaus’s six).

However, the VonHaus offering does trump the Dunelm oil-filled radiator in terms of price. Although the Dunelm model is still relatively affordable at just £59, that’s fairly expensive compared to the VonHaus’s £29.99.

In terms of performance, the Dunelm oil-filled radiator is very similar to the Pro Breeze 2500W Oil Filled Radiator with 11 Fins - but there’s no doubt that the Pro Breeze does offer more in terms of power and performance. The Pro Breeze features 11 fins, 2500W of power, three temperature settings, and a timer (which the Dunelm oil-filled radiator doesn’t have).

The Pro Breeze is bigger and chunkier than the Dunelm oil-filled radiator, but the Dunelm oil-filled radiator is cheaper than the Pro Breeze model - so if you’re happy to sacrifice a little bit of power for a cheaper price and a smaller size that can easily be tucked away when you’re done, then the Dunelm model could be a better option for you.

Should you buy the Dunelm 2000W Contemporary Round 9 Fin Oil Filled Radiator?

If you’re looking for an affordable oil-filled radiator that won’t break the bank but will help you to beat the chill, then I do recommend the Dunelm oil-filled radiator. The range of colourways means you can tie it into your home decor and the castor wheels allow you to move it out of the way when you’re not in use, and the overall heating power was impressive.

If you’re looking for something with more advanced technology and features, however, this model might not be for you. It’s very basic and uncomplicated when you get used to it, but those who want a timer or more detailed temperature control won’t get what they want.

So, it’s best to weigh up what exactly you want from an oil-filled radiator before you part with your cash.

How we tested

You can find more information on how we test products at Ideal Home here. For this review, the Dunelm 2000W Contemporary Round 9 Fin Oil Filled Radiator was tested by Lauren, Ideal Home’s Content Editor for the House Manual section. She tested this oil-filled radiator over two weeks in her small Victorian terrace in Kent.

Throughout testing (conveniently completed during the colder months of January and February), Lauren assessed everything from how easy it was to assemble to its heat output, overall design, heating controls, and how much it cost to run.

As well as following our specific and detailed testing guidelines, she aimed to use this Dunelm oil-filled radiator as naturally as possible to understand how the everyday customer would use the product. In doing so, she could easily assess the perks and potential pitfalls that customers would encounter if they were to buy it themselves.

At the end of the testing process, Lauren assessed all of the information at her disposal and her own experience of the product to determine whether she thought the Dunelm oil-filled radiator was worth the price tag. With this information in tow, she could also give it a score out of 5.

Although Lauren was sent this oil-filled radiator to review for Ideal Home, this did not impact her fair and impartial review process. She has shared her own experiences with the Dunelm 2000W Contemporary Round 9 Fin Oil Filled Radiator.

If you’re currently scratching your head and wondering, ‘Why is my heat pump not turning on?’ you’re not the first person to ask this question. After all, heat pumps run like well-oiled machines 99% of the time, but that extra 1% can leave you feeling stressed and confused.

Although heat pumps aren’t as popular as gas central heating just yet, there’s no doubt that they’re rising in popularity - and for good reason. As one of the most efficient ways to heat a house, they can help you save energy and money throughout the year, while cutting down your carbon footprint simultaneously. But they’re not foolproof, and one of the most common heat pump problem is it not turning on.

As Michael Zohouri, founder of The Retrofitters explains, ‘Often, the cause is something relatively simple. There are a few things homeowners can check before calling in a professional.’ Below, we’ve outlined 5 of the possible reasons why a heat pump isn’t turning on - and what you can do about it.

1. There’s an error code

Although heat pump units and their components may seem daunting and impossible to understand, the control panels of these heating systems tend to offer all of the information you could need to know. So, if your heat pump isn’t turning on, your first step should be to check the control panel for any error codes or messages.

This is echoed by David Leviseur, CEO and co-founder of heat pump specialist Fornax. He says, ‘It may have an error code displayed indicating a fault which would prevent it from operating. You can look up the error code online and/or in the equipment manuals provided by the installer when the system was put in.’

However, David advises that you don’t try and rectify this error code yourself. ‘As a first step, contact the engineer who installed the system originally; it may be under workmanship or equipment warranty and they can diagnose and repair at no cost or, if it's out of warranty, quote for doing so.’

2. The thermostat isn’t in the right mode

Like gas central heating, heat pumps also come with thermostats, allowing you full control over their heat output - and they even help if you decide you want to turn off your heat pump at night. But just as your central heating won’t turn on if your thermostat is off, a heat pump won’t turn on if the thermostat isn’t in the right mode.

Michael says, ‘Make sure it’s set to the right mode—heating or cooling—and that the temperature is set higher or lower than the current room temperature.’ The best case scenario is that your heat pump will turn on again once it’s in the right mode.

If your heat pump still isn’t turning on, it’s time to check the thermostat itself. Charles McAlpine, HiiLIFE’s climate solutions expert and Technical Sales Director, explains, 'Smart thermostats can also require periodic attention. Ensure their batteries are charged and that the system is properly synced with the heat pump.'

He adds, 'If the connection between the two has been disrupted, consult the product manual or seek professional assistance to re-establish the link. Regular checks and maintenance can prevent these issues from arising and keep your heat pump running efficiently.'

3. There’s been a power surge or power cut

Although heat pumps have the power to redefine how you keep your home warm in winter, they’re also electrical appliances attached to the mains electrics at your property. So, any electric change could result in your heat pump not turning on - including a power cut or power surge.

Michael suggests to, ‘Check your fuse box. A power surge or overload might have tripped the circuit breaker linked to the heat pump. If that’s the case, resetting it could solve the problem. But if the breaker trips repeatedly, that’s a sign of a more serious electrical fault that needs professional attention.’

If you haven’t had a power cut and you know for certain that the circuit breaker hasn’t tripped, it’s a good idea to visually inspect the wiring of a heat pump. However, it’s vital that you don’t start poking your fingers around the wires if you suspect there could be a problem with the wiring.

‘Over time, connections can become loose, especially in older systems. But this is definitely something a qualified electrician should handle,’ warns Michael.

4. It’s low on refrigerant

Although most people use heat pumps to heat their homes, they can’t work their magic without a constant supply of refrigerant. And if your heat pump is low on refrigerant, it might not turn on at all and you may be left scratching your head.

Michael says, ‘Without enough refrigerant, the heat pump can’t function properly.’ Thankfully, there is an easy fix if your heat pump is low on refrigerant.

A top-up of refrigerant is something a heat pump engineer will include in their service of your heat pump, so you shouldn’t need to do anything. But if levels are running especially low and you don’t think you’ll be able to last until your next service, contact your installer or a qualified engineer to get it done as soon as possible.

5. The air filters are blocked

Many electric appliances have air filters, and heat pumps are no different. But if you find that your heat pump isn’t turning on, you might want to check whether the air filters are blocked or need cleaning. In some cases, you can use one of the best vacuum cleaners to suck up any excess dirt or dust.

Michael explains, ‘Blocked filters restrict airflow, which can cause the system to overheat and automatically shut down as a safety measure. Cleaning or replacing the filters regularly can prevent this from happening.’

However, if your heat pump engineer continues to clean your filters during its annual service, it may be that blocked air filters aren’t the problem.

That’s why Michael advises, ‘If the system still refuses to turn on, it might be a faulty compressor or even a frozen outdoor coil. These kinds of faults are more complex and really need a trained heat pump engineer to diagnose and repair. Heat pumps are sophisticated systems, and sometimes, it takes an expert to get to the root of the problem.’

FAQs

How do you reset a heat pump?

If you want to reset a heat pump, you should first consult your manual to ensure you follow the required steps. In general, though, the best way to reset a heat pump is to turn it off at the thermostat or circuit breakers and then wait around 10 minutes.

Then, turn it back on to reset your heat pump. If this doesn’t work, you should reach out to your heat pump installer or a registered heat pump engineer to help you.

How do I fix my heat pump not heating?

If your heat pump is not heating, your first step should be to check the thermostat and ensure that it’s in ‘heating’ mode rather than ‘cooling’ mode. You should also check whether the temperature is set correctly, and not too low.

If this doesn’t solve the problem, it’s a good idea to check the air filters and inspect the exterior unit for any signs of damage or blockage. However, most experts would advise trying to fix your heat pump yourself. Instead, call in a professional.

If your heat pump wasn’t turning on, you should hopefully have an idea as to why now - and what you can do about it.

You probably don’t need us to tell you that it’s hard to sleep during the winter months. When temperatures drop, that winter chill often makes it into your home and into your bedroom, stunting your sleep in the process. That’s where the electric heater vs electric blanket debate can help you.

The best electric heaters and the best electric blankets can be effective alternatives to central heating if you’re trying to save energy at home. But if you want to stay as snug as a bug while you’re sleeping, it’s essential to understand that they’re both very different products. And while some will serve some households and individuals very well, others won’t.

That’s why we’ve put together the ultimate electric heater vs electric blanket debate to compare everything from heat output to safety, noise levels, and overall affordability. By the end of this guide, you should know which one will suit you and your nighttime needs the best.

What is an electric heater?

In short, an electric heater is a heater powered by electricity - but the reality is a little more complicated than that. Although these plug-in appliances can heat a room if you don’t want to turn on your central heating or just want an extra boost to beat the winter chill, they come in many different shapes and sizes, from fan heaters to convector heaters and halogen heaters.

It’s also worth mentioning that some of the best oil-filled radiators also come under the umbrella of electric heaters. So, it’s important to do your research before buying an electric heater, as buying the wrong type is one of the biggest electric heater buying mistakes you can make.

What is an electric blanket?

An electric blanket also does what it says on the tin. Although it looks like an ordinary blanket at first glance, it contains a series of wires that allow heat to permeate through it – heating the person wearing or using it simultaneously. But just like electric heaters, electric blankets aren’t a one-size-fits-all product.

In fact, there are a few key differences between an electric blanket and a heated throw, as one is typically used on top of a person, while the other is typically used underneath them. Because of this, we’d suggest checking out our guide on the things you should know before buying an electric blanket.

For this particular comparison, we’re talking about electric blankets, which are typically used on top of a mattress (and often secured with straps) to warm your bed either before you jump in or during the night.

Electric heater vs electric blanket: Heat output

In the electric heater vs electric blanket debate, heat output is a hot topic - largely because they’re so different. After all, you're directly exposed to the heat when you use an electric blanket, while electric heaters may be on the other side of the room. Because of this, you may only notice the heat output when the room starts warming up.

That’s why it’s a good idea to look at the wattage of the product you’re weighing up. Ultimately, the higher the wattage, the higher the heat output - and there’s one clear winner between electric heaters and electric blankets.

Out of all of the heated blankets the Ideal Home team has tested, the highest wattage comes in at 160W, and you’ll struggle to find an electric heater with a wattage as low as that. Generally, the wattage of an electric heater stands around 1000-2500W - apart from the Russell Hobbs 700W Ceramic Plug-In Heater, which is a little less than average but priced very affordably to reflect that.

And while the targeted heat from an electric blanket can help you sleep at night, the reality is that these low-wattage products don’t offer much else in terms of keeping a house warm in winter, which could cause problems in the future.

This is echoed by Jonny Smith, Home Safety Expert at Crusader Fire. He says, ‘While electric blankets are very effective for personal warmth, they don’t heat the air in a room, which means you may still need to balance their use with some form of room heating to avoid issues like damp and mould, which can impact your health.’

On the other hand, he explains, ‘Electric heaters are highly efficient at delivering consistent warmth. They convert nearly all the energy they use into heat, making sure your space stays cosy without wasting energy.’

But there’s no doubt that the type of electric heater can make a huge difference to the heat output. For example, in the ceramic heater vs fan heater debate, ceramic heaters are generally considered the best - not only for heat output as a whole but also for heat retention. As if that wasn’t enough, the level of insulation in your home can also directly affect how well an electric heater heats your home.

Jonny says, ‘Electric heating works best in well-insulated homes. Without proper insulation, it can be harder to maintain consistent warmth, which might lead to higher energy usage to keep the space comfortable.’

Taking all of the above into account, it’s clear to see that electric heaters generally win the heat output debate - but only with the right heater and in the right circumstances.

Electric heater vs electric blanket: Safety

If you’re weighing up electric heaters vs electric blankets with the main aim of keeping yourself warm at night, safety is something you seriously need to consider. The last thing you want is for a fire to break out while you’re sleeping.

That’s why it’s incredibly important to understand the purpose of the product you want to buy. As electric blankets like the Silentnight Comfort Control Electric Blanket are designed to warm up the space underneath your mattress, they are designed to be safe for overnight use.

Jonny adds, ‘Newer models also offer safety features like timers and automatic shut-offs, making sure the blanket won't overheat while you're asleep. This is super important in making sure you’re fire safety compliant.’

He adds, ‘They can also help regulate your sleep by keeping a consistent temperature, which supports your body’s natural sleep cycle and can even improve the quality of your rest.’

However, to maintain this safety, it’s important to clean your electric blanket properly and check your electric blanket is safe to use each time you pop it on your bed. After all, it’s still an electric appliance that could pose a risk if damaged.

This is echoed by Nathan McEvoy-Swann from Alert Electrical, who says, ‘When they become worn or frayed, you see wires poking out, the blanket is overheating or a number of other signs appear, you should get rid of it and replace the blanket. Over time and with use, electric blankets can become a fire hazard so be aware and inspect them regularly!’

The risks are even higher with electric heaters, though. As there are so many different types of electric heaters, you need to be sure that you can safely leave your electric heater on overnight. In most cases, experts would advise against it - especially as there are so many rules about where to put an electric heater to keep it as safe as possible and prevent a fire.

And even though many modern electric heaters - like the Pro Breeze 2000W Digital Oil-Free Radiator - come with features such as an in-built timer and auto tip-over shut off, it’s still a risk to leave it on overnight to keep you warm in winter. This is especially true in a bedroom where clothes and soft furnishings are nearby.

Electric heater vs electric blanket: Noise levels

If you’re constantly looking for ways to sleep better, it’s also important to understand what you need for a good night’s sleep. Do you need to be warm consistently throughout the night? Do you need white noise? Or do you prefer complete silence?

This is something to consider within the electric heater vs electric blanket debate, as the noise levels of the two are completely different. Generally, electric blankets are completely silent, but the majority of electric heaters are noisy. This is especially true if you use a fan heater, as the noise of the fan may keep you up at night.

So, it may be that electric heaters win this round, or it may be that you simply need to take some extra care in finding an electric heater that’s quieter than the rest.

Electric heater vs electric blanket: Affordability

When looking at the affordability of electric heaters vs electric blankets, there are two costs you need to consider: the upfront cost of the product and the cost to run the product in the long run.

In terms of the upfront cost, prices vary for both. The cheapest electric blanket the Ideal Home team has tested is the Slumberdown Sleepy Nights Electric Blanket, which retails at £33.99 for a single. The most expensive electric blanket we’ve tested is the Dreamland Snowed In Organic Cotton Warming Mattress Protector, which comes in at £99.99. However, these are the prices for single electric blankets - so you’ll have to pay more for larger sizes.

However, most experts would agree that an expensive electric blanket is worth it as it will offer more in terms of heat output and features that will make it easier to use.

The upfront cost of electric heaters also varies drastically. The cheapest electric heater we’ve tested is the Beldray EH0569SSTK Electric Flatbed Fan Heate, which comes in at just £19.99. But you could spend a lot more, as the most expensive heater we’ve tested is the Dyson Purifier Hot+Cool Formaldehyde HP09 Purifying Fan Heater, which retails at around £700 when it’s not on sale for less. Generally, though, you can normally pick up a high-quality electric heater for around £100.

In terms of the running costs, you’ll need to weigh up how much it costs to run an electric heater and how much it costs to run an electric blanket based on the wattage of the appliance and the current energy price cap. This changes every three months, so it’s hard to give an exact figure.

Most experts agree that one is cheaper to run than the other, though. James Longley, Managing Director at Utility Bidder, explains, ‘Electric blankets can vary in price, with some starting from £30 - £150 depending on brand/size and can last up to a staggering 10 years. They also use very little electricity compared to room heaters. Although they do vary, a standard 100W blanket will generally cost between 2p and 4p to run at full power for one hour. This means that for a couple of hours before going to sleep it would cost between 4p and 8p to warm up your bed. In comparison, an electric heater will cost 61p per hour to heat up your whole room.’

However, some electric heaters are cheaper to run than others. Nathan says, ‘Storage heaters are a great example of this. A storage heater will (when paired with a tariff like Economy 7) utilise the cheaper energy offers using off-peak times, which are generally at night. These heaters will store the warmth internally and distribute the heat throughout the day. This means your heating is cheaper and your electricity bill will be lower when compared to other electric heaters.’

All in all, though, electric blankets are more affordable.

Final verdict: Which one should you choose?

If you’ve got this far, you’ll probably know by now that the electric heater vs electric blanket debate isn’t an easy one. And while keeping warm in winter at night is essential to a happy and healthy life, both options can prove effective. Because of this, it comes down to personal preference.

This is echoed by Jonny, who says, ‘Choosing between an electric blanket and an electric heater comes down to what you’re looking for. If you prefer a more personal, direct source of warmth, an electric blanket is your best option. On the other hand, if you need to heat an entire room and are willing to manage the extra energy costs, an electric heater might be the better fit.’

So, it’s best to weigh up what you want from these winter warmers and decide on a budget before purchasing anything.

FAQs

Are heated and electric blankets the same?

Yes, the terms heated and electric blankets are generally interchangeable and refer to the same product. But it’s important to note that there is a distinction between an electric blanket and an electric throw.

Although many people assume that electric blankets are like other blankets you have around the house, they are actually used primarily on beds. On the other hand, electric throws are used more like traditional blankets.

Do electric blankets heat up rooms?

No, electric blankets don’t get hot enough to heat up rooms. They are designed to either heat an individual person or the bed they’re sleeping in. Because of this, the temperature of the room will not increase.

However, when you have been warmed up by the electric blanket, it may give the impression that your home has been heated as you feel warmer in yourself.

So, will you be buying an electric heater or electric blanket?

Of all the questions I wish I'd asked before starting my bathroom renovation, how to choose a bathroom radiator that would keep the space warm and the towels dry all year round has to be up there at the top of the list.

One of the most common bathroom renovation mistakes people make is to neglect the planning of their heating. As the owner of an old cottage, things can get pretty chilly at times (in fact, even in summer the house never really feels warm).

If there is one room that benefits from good heating, it has to be the bathroom – the space in which, without getting too graphic, we get stark naked and drench ourselves in water.

I reached out to the experts for their advice on choosing a bathroom radiator to ensure that your bathing space feels comfortable at all times.

Towel warmer or radiator – which is best?

It can be difficult to choose between a heated towel rail or a radiator when it comes to heating a bathroom – but when you look into how much does it cost to replace a radiator it is worth getting this decision right.

In general, the former is usually recommended.

'You’re not limited to specific types of radiators in your bathroom – you can really use any style or design of radiator that you like,' says Rob Nezard, managing director of UKRadiators.com. 'The choice often comes down to personal preference, practical needs and the available space.

'Towel rails are ideal if you want to warm or dry towels while also providing heat to the space,' continues Rob. 'They’re functional and available in a variety of styles and finishes.'

We chose a heated towel rail for our bathroom but I wish that I had thought about the way in which covering it in damp towels would mean less heat entering the room. In retrospect, combining this with electric underfloor heating would have been the best idea.

That said, traditional radiators do have their benefits in the bathroom.

'Heated towel rails are a great alternative to the traditional radiator style. They do what their name suggests, in that they heat your towels, but are not as effective at heating your whole room,' says Shamila Iqbal, director at Bathroom Mountain. 'Standard heated towel rails will connect to the same central heating system as your traditional radiators, but tend to emit less heat.'

'Another thing to keep in mind is that the bigger the bars, the better the heat output,' advises Nick Duggan, director at The Radiator Centre. 'Designs which separate the towels from the radiator section are also great options, as these heat the room more effectively.'

What size radiator do I need in my bathroom?

When it comes to what's the most efficient way to heat a house, choosing the right size of radiator or towel warmer for your bathroom is crucial in order to ensure the space is neither too hot or too cold.

This is definitely one thing I wish I'd asked before starting my bathroom renovation. While our heated towel radiator isn't tiny, as a family of four we could really have done with a bigger one to hold all the wet towels we seem to get through.

'To ensure you choose the right size radiator for your space, it’s important to consider room size and the required BTU for adequate heating,' explains Shamila Iqbal.

'While it’s true that larger bathrooms generally require larger radiators, insulation and layout play a critical role,' picks up Rob Nezard. 'For example, a large, well-insulated bathroom may need a smaller radiator than a compact, poorly insulated space.'

While there are lots of BTU calculators online, do be wary when it comes to relying solely on these.

'Be aware that there are a lot of so-called 'BTU calculators' online which are simply not fit for purpose,' warns Rob Nezard. 'It is a complex calculation that requires a lot of inputs, so if the calculator seems really simple, then it is probably really inaccurate. You can always consult a heating engineer who will be able to do this calculation for you.

'Tools like our Radsizer offer advanced calculations to help determine the ideal size and output for your bathroom,' adds Rob.

If you can't find a model with exactly the same BTUs you require, opt for the next size up.

What materials are best for a bathroom radiator?

Bathroom radiators and towel warmers come in all kinds of materials and styles, with some being more suited to certain bathroom ideas and interior schemes than others and offering different thermal properties too.

Radiators are generally made from one of four materials: cast iron, aluminium, mild steel or stainless steel. All comes in various designs and finishes to suit your bathroom colour schemes.

'A common pitfall is choosing a radiator solely based on its design and physical size,' points out Rob Nezard. 'While aesthetics matter, functionality is paramount. Prioritise efficiency and output before focusing on looks.'

Cast iron is a traditional choice, often seen on column radiators. It retains heat really well, but is heavier and can take longer to get up to the required heat than other materials. It can also be rather expensive.

Aluminium heats up really quickly and heats most spaces very efficiently. It is lightweight too, although it doesn't hold on to heat well once turned off – not always a bad thing.

Mild steel is a great option if affordability is important to you, plus it comes in many styles.

And, lastly, stainless steel. This is a hugely popular material for bathroom radiators, being rust-proof (perfect for a wet space like this), durable, a brilliant retainer of heat and available in a massive choice of styles.

Is an electric towel warmer the best option?

Once you start shopping around for bathroom radiators you will become aware that there are three main choices: plumbed, electric or dual fuel.

Our bathroom towel warmer is plumbed, meaning it works in the same way as all the other radiators in our home connected to the central heating. When the heating is on, the towel warmer is on and when the heating is off, so is it. This annoys me as, even in summer, I want warm towels.

One solution would have been to choose an electric towel warmer instead.

Electric towel warmers can be switched on and off as required. Some come with thermostatic controls which allow you to set a specific temperature or to pre-set them – others even allow you to programme them to come on a certain times of day.

The only downside of these is that they can be a little more expensive to run – plus, you need to remember to turn them on and off, unlike a plumbed in model which simply works in tandem with your central heating.

Be aware that even some of the best electric heaters may not be suitable in bathrooms.

What are dual fuel towel rails?

These types of heating systems really offer the best of both worlds. They contain an electric heating element but are also plumbed in. This means that in winter, when your central heating is on, they will be too. However, when the time comes to turn the central heating off, they can be powered using your electricity instead.

'We would always recommend looking at a dual fuel option when it comes to bathroom heating,' says Nick Duggan. 'Many towel radiators are also now available with an optional electric heating element, which will ensure you have warm and dry towels even when your central heating is turned off in the summer.'

The only downside of this is that you will need to connect both plumbing and a mains electricity supply into your bathroom.

FAQs

What type of radiator is best for a bathroom?

This really depends on what you want from your radiator. For example, if you are after small bathroom ideas, you will want to choose a compact model that is still capable of kicking out enough heat.

'An important thing to consider when choosing a radiator for your bathroom is storage and how much you need to help create a functional space,' advises Jess Steele, heating and technology expert at BestHeating . 'For maximum storage in busy family bathrooms I would recommend ladder style heated towel rails as they offer a larger surface area with multiple rails to hang towels on. If style takes priority over storage, radiator accessories like hooks and rails provide additional space to hang robes and towels on vertical designer radiators, whilst still creating a modern minimal look.

'Where storage is a must but wall space is limited, shelf style heated towel rails offer an extra surface to organise towels and keep them warm without overcrowding a small bathroom.'

Don't rule out underfloor heating either.

'Underfloor heating works on the principle of radiant heat, whereby heat is emitted evenly across the entire floor surface, ensuring consistent warmth throughout the space,' explains Tom Edmunds, general manager at Wunda Group. 'Unlike traditional heating methods that rely on convection, which often result in hot and cold spots, underfloor heating delivers a blissful warmth from the ground up. UFH delivers fantastic comfort within the bathroom particularly due to just how well it pairs with tiles.'

Should bathroom radiators have thermostatic valves?

If your bathroom radiator is going to be plumbed into your central heating system it will need valves.

'All plumbed radiators require radiator valves,' says Shamila Iqbal. 'These are purchased separately from the radiator – and it’s important that you choose the right valves for the job.

'Do you need a straight valve or angled valve?' continues Shamila. 'Generally speaking, if your heating pipes come out of the floor you will need straight valves. If they come out of the wall, it’s angled valves.'

Manual valves, as the name suggests, require you to adjust them by hand to control the temperature of the radiator.

More popular these days are thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs). These sense the temperature of the room and adjust the heat output of the radiator accordingly. You can also adjust them by hand.

If you want even more of a hands-off role, consider a smart thermostat. These can be controlled via smart hubs or devices and offer all kinds of handy, life-simplifying features.

Choosing the right radiator is just one aspect of getting your bathroom ideas just right – layout, your choice of sanitaryware and lighting are all other important considerations.

If you’re considering buying an electric heater for your home, it can be challenging to know where to start. After all, this appliance may be completely new to you, and you may have many questions, including: How many electric heaters do you need to heat a house?

Of course, the best electric heaters are an effective way to beat the winter chill and keep you comfortable over the colder months. But with rising energy bills and plummeting temperatures hitting homeowners simultaneously, one eclectic heater may not seem like enough - especially when so many people are questioning whether electric heaters are cheaper than central heating.

As Nicholas Auckland at Trade Radiators explains, ‘To fully heat a home, you would likely need an electric heater in every room. In larger rooms, you might need two electric heaters. This is because electric heaters only heat the space they're placed in, instead of distributing heat throughout the home.’ However, the exact number will depend on several factors, so it’s best to consider the following if you want to know how many electric heaters you’ll need to heat your home exactly.

1. The size of your home

The bigger your home, the longer it’ll take to heat - and this is the case no matter whether you have central heating or electric heaters. Because of this, the size of your home will directly impact how many electric heaters you’ll need to heat your house. Choosing the wrong size - and the wrong wattage - is one of the most common electric heater buying mistakes people make.

Nathan McEvoy-Swann from Alert Electrical explains, ‘A general guideline is to calculate the wattage required based on room size. As a rule of thumb, you need around 100 watts per square metre. For example, a 20m² room would need a 2,000-watt heater to maintain a comfortable temperature.’

In some cases (for example, if you’re lucky enough to live in a very large home with larger-than-average rooms), you may find that electric heaters just don’t cut the mustard. It may be that it’ll work in your favour to invest in a more efficient heating system instead.

This is echoed by Nicholas, who says, ‘Central heating/gas heating systems rely on having a central system in order to distribute heat evenly throughout the house. However, as electric heaters don't have a centralised system, each radiator is its own source, which provides more localised heating than central heating systems do.’

2. The type of heater

There are three main types of electric heaters: fan, convector, and halogen. All of them have their perks and pitfalls, and they all suit different areas of the home. Of course, you could also consider the best oil-filled radiators.

Explaining further, Nathan says, ‘In most homes, a combination of heaters works best. For living spaces, consider using larger, more powerful units, while smaller panels or oil-filled heaters are ideal for bedrooms or hallways. It's also a good idea to use heaters with thermostatic controls and timers to manage energy consumption and avoid overheating.’

It’s also worth understanding which type of electric heater is cheapest to run if you feel like you need or want to use more than one electric heater to heat a house. Especially if you’re trying to save energy at home.

3. Your home’s insulation

Knowing how to insulate a home is key to keeping energy bills down without compromising on your level of comfort. But it’s also essential if you want to effectively use electric heaters to heat a house. Otherwise, the warmth emitted from the heater will leak out of your home before you’ve had the chance to enjoy it. As a result, you may need more electric heaters to balance out the draughts.

Nathan adds, ‘Factors like ceiling height, window size, and whether the room is well-insulated will impact how many heaters you need. Well-insulated homes with double glazing and draught-proofing will need fewer heaters, whereas poorly insulated homes may require additional units.’

Of course, you don’t necessarily need to replace your loft insulation to make the most of electric heaters. But draught-proofing your home could be a good first step.

4. The positioning of the heater

You must also consider the worst places to put an electric heater when determining how many you need to heat your home. After all, placing it in the wrong position can not only be counter-intuitive, but it also has the potential to be extremely dangerous.

Isabella Forgione, AO's air treatment expert says, ‘It’s crucial to consider the placement of the heaters to ensure optimal warmth. For example, positioning a heater near windows or doors can help counteract draughts.’

Alternatively, placing certain heaters - like fan heaters - near or against a wall may render them useless, as they won’t be able to work to their full capacity. Because of this, it’s a good idea to understand the needs and requirements of your home and your heater to find the best position for it. In some cases, it may be that you have to buy more to keep yourself comfortable.

In other cases, it might not be worth it. Isabella adds, ‘For whole-house heating, it is more cost-effective and energy-efficient to use central heating or a dedicated heating system rather than relying solely on electric heaters, which can be expensive to run for long periods.’

5. Your personal preferences

While the above factors will help you determine how many electric heaters you need to heat a house on paper (well, on-screen), the reality is that everyone has their personal preferences when it comes to warmth and comfort. So, what works for one person might not work for another.

In my opinion, your best bet is to start with one heater - preferably one that’s highly portable - so you can move it around the home and start by only heating the room that you’re using. If this isn’t enough to take away the winter chill, or you have others in your home that require an extra heat boost, too, you can simply add more.

FAQs

What size room will a 2kw heater heat?

A 2kw heater should be able to heat a room that’s up to 20 square metres in size. However, it’s important to note that this can be impacted by the level of insulation in your home, the heater’s positioning and the type of heater. So, you should always take this with a pinch of salt.

What is the cheapest way to heat a room?

Generally, gas is much cheaper than electricity, which means that it’s often cheaper to heat a room (and your whole house) using your gas central heating if you have that available to you. If you don’t want to waste money on heating your whole house, you can simply turn off the radiators in the rooms you do not need to heat and heat the room you’re using instead.

If you don’t have gas central heating, you can use electric heaters. They can be extremely effective in heating a room and won’t cost you a fortune - but they are more expensive in the long run.

So, to determine how many electric heaters you need to heat a house, make sure you consider all of the above before spending your hard-earned money.

With the coldest months of the year right around the corner, you might be thinking about investing in a portable electric heater to warm up your home. To help you out, we’ve put two of the most popular options up against each other, comparing ceramic heaters vs oil heaters, also known as oil-filled radiators, to determine which is the best electric heater.

When choosing an electric heater, you want to know that you’re getting the very best for your budget, so which option is right for your needs? Making these sorts of purchases can often be a bit of a minefield, but you want to be confident that the heater you choose will heat your home efficiently while being affordable too.

Both ceramic heaters and oil heaters are great choices, but does one stack up above the other? To help you decide which portable heater to invest in, a variety of industry experts walk us through the pros and cons of both so that you can make a fully informed decision and keep your home warm this winter.

Ceramic heater vs oil heater: What is the difference?

When it comes to choosing a portable heater, ceramic heaters and oil heaters are both good options, but what’s the difference between them? While they are pretty similar in the way that they work, they do have their advantages and disadvantages.

Oil heaters are, as you may have guessed, filled with oil inside the radiator. The oil is heated up using an electrical element. It’s essentially a convection heater that emits heat through its columns, also known as ‘fins’.

On the flip side, ceramic radiators use electricity to heat up using resistive heating. This involves passing an electric current through a conductive ceramic plate, creating resistance and in turn creating heat. The different ways that oil heaters and ceramic heaters warm up create a difference in heating time, as Lee Devin from Homecure Plumbers explains.

‘Ceramic heaters heat up faster than oil heaters and offer efficient on-demand heating for small or medium-sized rooms. On the other hand, oil heaters take a little longer to heat up (around 20-30 minutes), but are better for maintaining steady temperatures in larger spaces.’

A great example of a ceramic heater would be the Small Olive Square Heater from Dunelm. At just £30, this stylish ceramic heater offers a great heat source without taking up much space. In comparison, the VonHaus 11 Fin 2500W Oil Filled Radiator might be bigger, but it provides long-lasting heat and has a 24 hour timer.

Ceramic heater vs oil heater: Which produces the most heat?

Both ceramic and oil heaters provide a good source of heat, but is one better than the other? Put simply, ceramic heaters will heat up faster, whereas oil heaters will retain heat for longer.

‘Ceramic heaters, like the DREO Space Heater Solaris 718, are designed for fast, efficient heating, making them ideal for quickly warming up medium to large-sized rooms,’ explains Joshua Gun, VP of DREO. ‘They deliver concentrated warmth where it’s needed, allowing for rapid comfort. In contrast, oil heaters such as the DREO Radiator Heater OH712 offer steady, long-lasting heat, perfect for larger spaces that require consistent warmth.’

Nicolas Aukland, heating and energy expert at Trade Radiators also added, ‘Which radiator produces the most heat depends on what you're using them for. For example, ceramic heaters are designed to provide instant heat, which means they're good at quickly warming up smaller areas, ideal for spot heating. However, they do tend to lose heat quickly as soon as they're turned off, so they need to be on constantly to provide heat.’

‘Oil heaters however will take longer to warm up, but will radiate heat better,’ Nick continues. ‘This means that they keep spaces warm for longer in general. All in all, if you’re looking for rapid heat in a specific, smaller spot, then a ceramic heater is likely the better option, but for consistent warmth over time, an oil heater is more efficient. So it all depends on the location and your heating needs.’

Ceramic heater vs oil heater: Which is bigger?

If size comes into play, oil heaters are usually the bigger of the two options. Ceramic heaters tend to be more compact and lighter too, so if you’re limited on space or you want a heater that’s easy to move around, a ceramic heater might be the better option.

‘Oil heaters are typically larger and bulkier due to their radiator-style design, while ceramic heaters like the DREO 2-in-1 Tower Fan & Heater MC706 are more compact and portable, ideal for tighter spaces,’ says Joshua Gun.

‘The MC706 is sleek and space-efficient, offering both heating and cooling in one unit without sacrificing performance,’ he continues. ‘Despite its compact size, it delivers high-power output. On the other hand, the DREO Radiator Heater OH712 is larger but designed with 8 efficient fins, offering superior heat distribution. Its relocate cord to the back design ensures better control and ease of use, maximizing space while providing effective heating.’

Ceramic heater vs oil heater: Which is more affordable?

When considering which is the cheapest electric heater to run, it’s important to look at both initial costs and long-term costs, as Lee Devlin explains.

‘Ceramic heaters are typically more affordable to buy and run than oil heaters. They generate more heat per watt, and the long-term cost of gas or electricity is cheaper than oil. However, oil heaters retain heat for longer and need less power to keep warm, making them more efficient in terms of long-term energy consumption.’

It’s also worth noting that oil heaters will switch off once the desired heat has been reached, which can help keep costs down, whereas ceramic heaters will continue to use electricity to keep them hot until you turn them off.

While ceramic heaters do tend to be cheaper to run, when our expert tester Rachel Tompkins tested 6 oil filled radiators, she found a good low cost alternative in the 500W De'Longhi TRNS0505M, if you’re set on getting an oil heater.

‘If you only have a small space to heat then the 500W De'Longhi TRNS0505M offers the lowest running costs of all the oil-filled radiators in our round-up,’ recommends Rachel. ‘It can't dish out as much heat as its 2500W competition, but it's small, compact, lightweight, and very easy to use. Plus, there's zero self-assembly required making this heater ready to use straight out of the box.’

Ceramic heater vs oil heater: Final Verdict

Which option you go for really depends on your own unique needs. Ceramic heaters tend to have a lower upfront cost and provide almost instant heat, whereas oil heaters provide a steadier heat source and will shut off when the desired heat is achieved, which can save you money.

‘Oil radiators can be a good addition, as they help bring steady and consistent heat to any home,’ adds Isabella Forgione, small appliance expert at AO.com. ‘Using internal oil to retain warmth for a long time, they may take a longer time to heat than a ceramic heater – but do so at a much more efficient rate, retaining sustained heat for a far longer time. Overall, an oil radiator is also a good choice if you’re looking for a bulkier heater to warm a much larger area.’

Maintenance of your electric heater is worth considering too. Ceramic heaters can gather dust inside their internal fan. This can decrease the efficiency, so it’s important to clean the fan around once a month. The fans in ceramic heaters may also need replacing annually, whereas oil heaters require little maintenance.

If your budget is tight and you want something that’s going to provide heat quickly for a small space, a ceramic heater is the right choice. Whereas if you’re looking for something to use on a regular basis that will provide ongoing heat to larger spaces, go with an oil-filled heater.

Over winter portable heaters are a great way to keep warm without facing a hefty heating bill from rising energy bills. Oil-filled radiators are one of the most portable heaters on the market, but are oil-filled radiators any good?

The best oil-filled radiators provide a quick and easy way to add extra warmth to smaller spaces, helping you to feel warm and cosy over the colder months. But are they as good as central heating or the best electric heaters?

Well, we put this to the experts and overall the consensus is that yes, oil-filled radiators are good. However, there is a little more to it than that. This is why we've broken it down into the pros and cons of using an oil-filled radiator to help you decide if it's the right choice for your home.

What are the pros of an oil filled radiator?

1. Even and long lasting warmth

Oil-filled radiators work in a similar manner to central heating explains Nicholas Auckland, Heating and Energy Expert at Trade Radiators. They work to warm the room ‘without creating 'hot spots' or blowing out any air, which can be uncomfortable, can trigger allergies and can, of course, mean that the room is heated unevenly.’ So, this can make them a great option for providing even warmth to smaller spaces and rooms.

In addition to this, ‘the oil inside stays hot long after being switched off, which helps to keep rooms warmer for longer – a huge bonus in colder temperatures. The oil also heats evenly throughout the radiator, meaning you’re getting the most from the radiator,’ adds Aneesa Khan, Assistant Home Electricals Buyer at VonHaus.

2. Portability

One of the biggest pluses of owning an oil-filled radiator is the fact that most are relatively compact and come with wheels, making them easy to move around the house. So, if someone is feeling particularly chilly or you want to heat a specific space in your home like a small office or reading nook you can pull the oil-filled radiator so that it's placed wherever you need it.

3. Built-in safety features

Most oil-filled radiator models come equipped with a number of handy safety features. So, if you’ve ever asked yourself ‘are oil-filled radiators dangerous?’, we can confirm that as long as they are used correctly, you have nothing to worry about.

From overheat protection to built-in timers and thermostats, many even come with a tip-over switch, meaning if the device is accidentally tipped over it will switch off automatically. All of these certainly give you some peace of mind as you use your oil-filled radiator.

4. Low maintenance

‘Despite being called 'oil-filled', the oil isn’t consumed as such but instead it acts as a heat reservoir to hold the heat,’ Nicholas explains. ‘This means that no refuelling is required, which reduces maintenance pressures and eliminates ongoing costs. All you'll have to do is keep an eye on the cleanliness of the radiator, and the wires to ensure they're in good condition.’

5. Quietness

Oil-filled radiators work almost silently, apart from the occasional glug as they heat up.

‘Unlike fan heaters, which can be quite noisy, oil-filled radiators tend to operate much more silently. This makes them ideal for the likes of bedrooms, offices, or any other space where peace and quiet is important,’ Nicholas explains.

‘Because they heat the oil internally, you’ll only hear the occasional gurgle of oil,’ Aneesa from Vonhaus adds.

6. Aesthetics and choice

Certain fan heaters aren’t exactly the most aesthetically pleasing, while oil-filled radiators come in a wide selection of colours and sizes, allowing you to choose something that fits in with your existing interiors.

‘One of the main benefits of oil-filled radiators lies in their impressive variety. From classic column builds to sleek flat panels and elegantly curved bars, you’re guaranteed to find the perfect accompaniment to your home’s aesthetic,’ Stephen Hankinson, Radiator Expert at Electric Radiators Direct, says.

‘Sizes can range from five fins right up to 17 fins, and there are even some closed fin models available too,’ Aneesa adds.

What are the cons of an oil filled radiator?

1. Slower to heat up

One of the biggest disadvantages of an oil-filled radiator is that it takes longer to heat up compared to other types of heaters, as the oil needs time to reach the desired temperature before it can start radiating warmth. This might not necessarily be a deal breaker for many, but it is worth bearing in mind if you’re looking for more of an immediate heat.

2. Not suitable for larger spaces/rooms

While they can work really well in smaller spaces and rooms, they won’t make much of a difference in a particularly large or open-plan room. ‘They also provide radiant heat to the surrounding area but lack the ability to focus heat in a specific direction, which may not suit all heating needs,’ says Nick Duggan, Managing Director of The Radiator Centre.

3. They can be heavy

Even though they are portable and can be moved from room to room, as you go to take it out of the box or bring it home from the shops, you will notice just how heavy an oil filled radiator can be.

‘This is due to their oil content inside, as well as their heavy metal casing,’ Nick justifies. ‘This is also why they're usually on wheels, so you don't need to pick them up for extended periods of time.’

4. Higher up-front cost

You may find that an oil filled radiator is more expensive than other heaters and radiators, however, the experts would argue that ultimately you get what you pay for, as they are more durable and heat more effectively than some of the alternatives.

5. High surface temperatures

Like you might expect from most radiators or heating devices, an oil filled radiator can get particularly hot, which is beneficial at keeping you warm but can be a bit of a hazard for small children and pets, who might reach out to touch it. So, it’s important that you don’t leave them unattended when it is on or even when it’s cooling down.

Verdict

Taking all of that into consideration in short yes oil-filled radiators are good. ‘Oil-filled radiators offer the perfect balance of efficiency and comfort – delivering steady, silent warmth that lasts long after you turn them off. With no noise, no fuss, and low maintenance, they’re a smart, reliable choice for keeping your home warm without running up your energy bill,’ Stephen says.

However, whether an oil-filled radiator is worth getting depends on your heating needs and overall preferences. For example, ‘they are an excellent choice if you’re looking for a quiet, energy-efficient, and reliable heater that provides consistent warmth without drying out the air. They’re especially suitable for small to medium-sized rooms and spaces where steady, long-lasting heat is desired,’ Nick concludes.

While the initial cost might be higher and they do take a bit longer to warm up, their efficiency and low maintenance often make up for these drawbacks over time. However, for larger spaces or immediate heat, other options like electric fan heaters or central heating may be more suitable and affordable in the long-run.

Our favourite oil-filled radiators