Now that I've been working from home for more than six years, a period which has included some of the hottest days on record, I like to think I've nailed my process for keeping my home cool.

While I have fitted air conditioning in my living room, and a portable air conditioner and a brilliant fan I can use where I need to, I'm also a big believer in more passive (and energy efficient) cooling methods, like solar control, cross ventilation and night flushing.

However, there's one method I've sworn by over the years — keeping all windows closed during the hottest part of the day (as well as blinds and curtains) — that has felt less effective in my home in the most recent and prolonged heatwave.

While this method has undoubtedly been effective when we've had the odd hot days, preventing the worst of the heat from entering my home, the length and intensity of the most recent hot spell has been one of the most extreme I've experienced.

When I'd kept the windows and blinds shut, especially upstairs, the build up of heat felt far more noticeable to me than ever before. If I needed to go upstairs for anything, I would get to about the ninth step before my head would enter a stifling blanket of heat. Something about entering that environment head first made it seem all the more acute.

Then at night, when the temperature cooled slightly outside, I would open all of the windows to get some cross ventilation going, but the heat didn't seem to escape. I'd even point fans out of the open windows to help give the night flushing a helping hand, but it still remained far too hot to sleep upstairs. Fortunately, I have a comfortable air bed (this Silentnight king sized air bed, £57.99 at Amazon that is also the top pick in our best air beds guide) that means I can decamp to the living room for a cooler night's sleep.

After the first couple of days of the heatwave, and the accumulation of heat, I decided to leave the upstairs windows open (but curtains mostly closed, with a small gap in the centre) to see how much of a difference it made. And interestingly, it definitely made the stifling blanket of heat considerably less oppressive as I headed up the stairs.

Admittedly, it was still very warm (and in most cases, when temperatures exceed 30°C, there's only some much you can do before you need to resort to active cooling measures like fans and air conditioning to create a cooler environment), but it didn't feel any warmer than before, when I'd had the windows closed.

And granted, if my home was oriented in a different way, and I had rooms that were naturally shaded and cool despite the heat outside, then keeping the windows closed would be essential to maintain that coolness for as long as possible. However, my home's orientation and position in a little sun trap mean that it seemingly feels the full effects of the sun from the moment it rises until it sets.

By leaving the upstairs windows open, and this may have been due to a bit more of a breeze outside, it felt like the night flushing was more effective too (although I did end up sleeping with two fans — one blowing on me, and one blowing out of the window).

While having the upstairs windows open may have been a bit of a placebo in terms of its effectiveness, managing solar gain by keeping my blackout curtains closed whenever the sun is out is still an absolute no-brainer for me. Upstairs curtains will be closed for most of the day, and I'm tactical about when I close my kitchen curtains so that I can still enjoy the daylight, but just keep the worst of the heat gain at bay.

Shop my summer gamechangers

Plug-in solar panels could be available to buy in the UK soon after the 27 August 2026, when updated legislation comes into effect.

Back in March, the Government announced that plug-in solar panels would be available 'within months', offering households across the UK a chance to offset their energy bills by generating their own electricity at home. Panels like this are already widely used across parts of Europe, and are both renter friendly and considerably more affordable than rooftop solar installations.

But in order for plug-in solar panels to legally sold in the UK, certain regulations around plugs and sockets needed to be updated to allow power generating tech, like plug-in solar panels, to be self-installed and used safely. The government consulted with industry professionals on proposed changes, saying that it wanted to move 'at pace' to bring plug-in solar panels to UK homes.

Those legislative amendments have now been laid before Parliament and are due to come into force on Thursday 27 August 2026, and we expect retailers, like Lidl, Amazon, Currys and B&Q, to make their plug-in solar panels offerings available to buy on or soon after that date.

'We are working closely with government and suppliers to understand and help shape the guidance, ensuring any products we offer are safe, compliant and straightforward to install,' says Graham Bell, CEO of B&Q. 'We look forward to making plug-in solar available to our customers as soon as possible.'

There is also hope that these legislative changes are just the beginning, and will open the door for even more affordable and easy to install technology to become available to those in the UK.

'The Government's announcement is a really important step towards making solar energy available to far more people across the UK,' says Aaron James Darvill, Strategic Sales Director at Anker SOLIX. 'Until now, generating your own electricity has largely been limited to homeowners with the right roof and the budget for a full solar installation. Plug-in solar changes that. It gives renters, people living in flats and households without suitable roofs a simpler and more affordable way to get started.'

'While this is a major milestone, battery storage will be the next important step. Plug-in solar generates the most electricity during the day, but most households use the most energy in the evening. Without battery storage, consumers can't store surplus energy to use when they need it most, limiting the savings and flexibility the technology can deliver.

'Across Europe, we’ve seen that people rarely buy their final solar energy system on day one. They start small, see the benefits for themselves and then add more panels or battery storage as their needs grow. We expect the UK to follow a similar path, with battery storage playing an increasingly important role in helping households maximise the value of the energy they generate and reduce their reliance on the grid. We're also encouraged that a regulatory framework for plug-in battery storage is expected to follow, helping ensure these systems can be adopted safely and with confidence.'

If you are keen to embrace plug-in solar panels, make sure you understand how they differ to rooftop solar panels so you make the right choice for your home.

New Prime Minister Andy Burnham has announced that VAT will be cut from household electricity bills from 1 October 2026.

The move, which will see 5% VAT reduced to zero, is expected to cut around £45 from typical annual electricity bills over winter, and will be welcome news to those who already go to significant lengths to save energy at home and reduce their monthly bills.

Speaking less than 48-hours into his new role, Prime Minister Andy Burnham said: 'I said I wanted to give people breathing space, and that’s what I’m announcing on my second day as Prime Minister.

'We’re taking immediate action to cut taxes on energy bills, put more money in people’s pockets and bring back hope.

'Cutting VAT on electricity bills is expected to take around £45 off the yearly Ofgem price cap in October.'

The reduction is set to be passed on to the millions of households in England, Wales and Scotland via their suppliers and is expected to include those on both fixed and standard variable tariffs. While some measures of energy bill relief over recent years have only been available to those in receipt of certain benefits, no such eligibility criteria has been announced for this VAT reduction.

Rules work slightly differently in Northern Ireland, but the government has said that the NI Executive will receive comparable funding to enable it to similarly support households in Northern Ireland.

While the energy price cap figure for the period between 1 October and 31 December 2026 has yet to be announced by the energy regulator Ofgem, current predictions from analysts at Cornwall Insight have the cap sitting at around £1,849 (based on the current typical domestic consumption values of 2,700 kWh per annum for electricity and 11,500 kWh per annum for gas). As a comparison, the current energy price cap is set at £1,862.

The official price cap figure for autumn will be announced on 26 August, and will be calculated using new typical domestic consumption values to reflect a fall in the average household's energy use.

Is it enough to help struggling households?

Is an average £45 annual reduction enough to help households struggling with high electricity bills? In isolation, probably not. But it's a step in the right direction to provide some relief, especially at a time when households are more likely to be using more electricity hungry appliances, like tumble dryers.

When combined with other electricity saving measures, from simply turning off vampire appliances to more involved solutions like investing in plug-in solar panels (when they become available) or a rooftop solar panel array, households can also reduce their energy consumption to lower their bills.

If you are still concerned you won't be able to pay your energy bills over the colder months, reach out to your supplier in the first instance. They will be able to help move you on to a cheaper tariff if applicable, or check your eligibility for further assistance.

If you’re struggling to cool your home, then an unusual cooling hack is being recommended by experts to help prevent excess heat and light from reflecting into your home - and all you need is a camo net (£9.49, Amazon).

Seeing that the best fans and portable air conditioners are practically sold out everywhere, it's time to get creative when looking for easy and affordable ways to cool a home.

Perhaps one of the more bonkers methods I’ve spotted, using a camo net to cover windows or create a shady awning, is an easy way to help cool a room. Here’s why.

The camo net cooling hack

‘Camo nets can be a surprisingly effective and affordable way to keep parts of your home cooler because they create shade before the sun's heat reaches your windows or roof. In cases where there is a heatwave, large windows, skylights, and conservatories will act as greenhouses, letting in sunshine which, in turn, heats your walls, floor, and furnishings,’ explains Max Wilson, co-founder at Pocket Storage.

‘Because they're lightweight and come in large sheets, they can be draped over skylights, stretched across conservatories, fixed above south-facing windows or used to create a temporary awning over a pergola or patio. The idea is not to cool down rooms that have become overheated but to prevent the heating of those rooms at all.’

You may already be aware that one of the best things you can do is keep your curtains and blinds closed during the hottest part of the day. Similarly, it can also be a good idea to block your windows with a reflective material (like B&Q’s £15.99 sun foil) to reflect sunlight from your windows. This is used as part of the caveman cooling method, whereby keeping sunlight out of a room (like a cave) keeps it cool.

‘After the sun's rays have passed through the glass, a large percentage of the heat is contained within the home, which explains why shutting the curtains or blinds once the sun's rays have entered can be less effective than one might think. External shading prevents the solar heat from even reaching the glass,’ says Max.

‘As opposed to a plain tarpaulin, a camo net has gaps in its weave, which allows the wind to blow through freely while still being able to filter out the harmful rays of light from the sun. This gives you shade without shutting out any natural light or trapping a pocket of hot air underneath. It is very much like being under a big tree that makes things cool but allows the wind to blow through.’

If you’re on a budget or renting, a camo net is a good way to create shade without making any permanent or expensive drawbacks; however, Max is keen to point out that it should be used alongside other cooling methods.

‘I would not depend upon it as an absolute remedy. The effectiveness of this technique is maximised when used along with other cooling methods. The windows, curtains, and blinds must be kept shut at the time when it gets too hot outside. When the temperature begins dropping in the evening, the windows should be opened on opposite sides of the house to allow fresh air to flow inside and expel the heat collected within the house,’ he said.

‘If you are buying a camo net for cooling purposes rather than camouflage, it is recommended that you buy a lighter-coloured one. This is because light colours tend to reflect the sun's rays, whereas dark colours absorb the sun's energy. At the end of summer, all you need to do is store the net in a clean, dry place until the next hot season arrives.'

‘Ultimately, external shading is the most efficient way to cool down your house, since it stops the heat from entering the building at all. Whether this is camouflage, a shade cloth, or just an awning, stopping the sun from heating your windows will almost always be more effective than cooling down the room after it has been heated up,’ Max concludes.

It may not be the most attractive cooling method, but camo netting is a cheap and effective one. Would you be willing to try it?

If you’re struggling to keep yourself cool this summer, experts are recommending that you purchase a hot water bottle to help beat the heat. No, they’ve not lost their minds - a frozen hot water can offer chilly relief against the July heatwave.

Considering stock levels are waning for the best fans and portable air conditioners, we’re all having to be a little creative when it comes to finding ways to keep ourselves cool, and experts say a frozen hot water bottle is a good way to make you feel more comfortable.

This cooling hack is as simple as it sounds. Take a hot water bottle (you can pick one up for £8 at Argos), fill it with water and then freeze it. But this hack comes with a word of warning, as hot water bottles are not designed to be frozen, you shouldn't use the same hot water bottle to heat you in the winter as the rubber may burst. Why not keep your hot water bottle for winter and treat a second as a ‘cool water bottle’ for summer?

‘Once frozen, it's wrapped in a towel or pillowcase and used as a cold pack. It can work well as a personal cooling method because you're cooling yourself rather than trying to lower the temperature of an entire room, and holding it against pulse points such as your wrists, ankles or behind your knees, or placing it near your feet while you sleep, can help you feel more comfortable,' says Rhys Powell, director of operations at WarmZilla.

'It's worth remembering, though, that it won't cool the air in your bedroom or living room. It's a way of making the person feel cooler rather than changing the temperature of the space.'

While this hack is incredibly easy to follow, you will have to check your bottle for cracks or leaks before freezing.

‘The biggest risk comes from freezing the bottle itself. Water expands as it freezes, so overfilling the bottle can place pressure on the seams and increase the risk of leaks or damage. Not every hot water bottle is designed to withstand freezing temperatures either, so it's always worth checking the manufacturer's guidance first,’ explains Max Wilson, co-founder at Pocket Storage.

‘Freezing can cause older rubber bottles to become fragile with age. In case a person decides to freeze the bottle, it is advised to use a newer bottle, which should be filled up to at least half of its capacity but not more than two-thirds to provide room for expansion. The bottle must be covered with a piece of cloth before being applied to the body surface to prevent frostbite.’

‘When using the hot water bottle, every time check if it has any cracks or signs of damage, as in this case you need to change it.’

Alternatively, here are a few more products that can be used to keep the body cool during soaring temperatures.

I’m not about to turn my nose up at a cooling method that offers fast relief. And paired with other methods such as supercharging a fan, the caveman method and investing in a reliable misting fan can all help keep the human cool.

What do you say?

On 1 July, the energy price cap went up by 13%. That means that if you aren't on a fixed tariff and are instead on your supplier's standard variable tariff, the price you pay for your energy has gone up.

While you might have already tried a few ways to save energy at home, there's only so much you can do when it comes to those appliances that you have little choice but to use. And in a heatwave, that very well be a portable air conditioner.

But how much more are you actually paying to run a portable AC in this heatwave compare to the heatwaves in May and June? I've broken down it down below for portable air conditioners and other most commonly used appliances. You can also use our new calculator below to see how much any of your appliances are costing you. All you need to know is the wattage.

Portable air conditioner: this is based on a portable AC that uses 1350W in cooling mode. Washing machine: this is based on a machine using 1.13kWh on a standard cotton 60° cycle. Dishwasher: this is based on slimline integrated model that uses 1.12kWh per quick and shine 60° cycle. Tumble dryer: this is based on an 8kg capacity, B-rated condenser tumble dryer, using 4.75kWh per full load on the standard cotton drying programme. Oven: this is based on an example 0.8kW oven. Air fryer: this is based on a 1500W basket air fryer.

To check your specific appliances that may have different wattages to those mentioned in the table above, you can use our brand new tool below.

Simply pop in the wattage of your appliance, tick whether that it's kilowatts or Watts, and if you don't know how much you pay for your energy, our tool will use the current July 2026 price cap figure. If you want to see what you were paying before the price cap increase, simply put in the figure 0.2467 when asked how much you pay for your energy. This is the price (in pounds) for a unit of electricity under the April 2026 price cap which ended on 30 June 2026.

While an extra couple of pence might not seem like a lot, add together the increase of all the appliances you use in your home, and consider how often you use them and how long for and it'll soon tot up.

And so if you're shocked by how much more you are paying now that the new price cap is in effect, there are things you can do to bring the cost down. Firstly, you could look into switching to a fixed price tariff that would reduce how much you pay for the energy you use, and protect you from further price rises for the duration of the fix (usually 12, 18 or 24 months). Use a price comparison website, like our sister brand Go.Compare, Compare the Market or Uswitch.

If you've already done that, or you can't find a suitable deal, then reducing how much energy your appliances consume is another way to lower your bills. I've tried multiple tricks so far this year to reduce my energy consumption, from not using my tumble dryer for a month, switching to a cooler washing machine cycle, or opting for a much more energy-efficient dishwasher mode.

Keeping an eye out for vampire appliances that waste energy and turning them off at the wall is another way to reduce your home's energy consumption, and as a result, your bills.

Thousands of homes in England and Wales will be eligible to receive a £9,000 grant to switch to a heat pump this summer, the Government has announced. This is an increase from the previous £7,500 grant that was available to help homes switch from fossil fuel buringing boilers.

Heat pumps are becoming a more popular heating choice due to the fact that they’re a more energy-efficient choice compared to a standard gas boiler, with lower running costs. They’re already hugely popular in countries with colder climates such as Norway, Finland and Sweden.

Heat pumps are powered by electricity rather than fossil fuels such as oil or gas, and this latest increase in the government's boiler upgrade scheme funding is to help rural households in England and Wales make the move to a heat pump and protect them from fossil fuel spikes. Here’s everything you need to know.

The Boiler Upgrade Scheme grant

On 26 June, the Department for Energy Security and Net Zero announced that from 21 July, the Boiler Upgrade Scheme grant is increasing by 20%, from £7,500 to £9,000, to help rural households switch from heating oil to heat pumps.

The Government says this grant will electrify families’ heating, meaning they are protected from future fossil price spikes and providing greater certainty over energy bills. If the latest Price Cap Announcement has left you worried about your energy bills, investing in a heat pump can be a smart choice if you’re looking to make your home more energy efficient and save money in the long run.

Leaflets about the scheme will be posted to 200,00 eligible households across England and Wales this week (week commencing 29 June), providing more information on how to claim the extra funding. You can also check your eligibility via the Gov.uk website, on the Apply for the Boiler Upgrade Scheme page.

‘This government is determined to bring down energy bills, but I know the war in the Middle East has hit households on heating oil especially hard,’ said Minister for Energy Consumers Martin McCluskey.

‘We have already taken action to support these households through confirming over £50 million in support for vulnerable customers on heating oil.

‘Now, the Boiler Upgrade Scheme will help thousands of families across England and Wales switch to clean heat to protect them from volatile fossil fuels.’

‘The Boiler Upgrade Scheme continues to play a vital role in supporting households to adopt heat pumps, and this £1,500 uplift will make the transition significantly more affordable for the thousands of oil-heated homes,' says Charlotte Lee, CEO, Heat Pump Association UK.

‘Many of these households have faced considerable price uncertainty in recent months, without the protection of the energy price cap, and this £9,000 grant will help shield families from volatile fossil fuel costs, by using home-grown electricity, in the years ahead.’

If you’ve been considering installing a heat pump, you should check to see if you’re eligible for the Boiler Upgrade Scheme. They are an expensive investment, costing £12,500 on average according to the Boiler Upgrade Scheme statistics. But the new increase in the grant available to certain households makes it a more affordable and accessible option.

Experts have revealed the five household appliances to switch off during a heatwave to help your home stay cool and save money on your energy bills,

If you’ve been wondering whether you should switch off appliances during summer, the answer is yes, you should. Not only do vampire devices cause your bills to add up, but many appliances emit excess heat, which is never a good thing in periods of hot weather.

Turning off household appliances you’re not using is a great, free way to cool your home. These are the five the experts say to turn off now.

1. Countertop appliances

While the best air fryers, microwaves, blenders and perhaps the viral Ninja Creami (£199.99 at Amazon), considering the weather, are great appliances to have on your countertops, they do produce unnecessary heat if not unplugged.

‘The kitchen can easily become the hottest room in the house, especially when cooking or with larger appliances such as washing machines or dishwashers running. This can become unbearable during heatwaves, so there are some small steps you can take to help reduce room temperature,’ says appliance expert at AO.com, Katie Lillywhite.

'Start with smaller worktop appliances, like microwaves, kettles, toasters and coffee machines. Some more modern varieties feature digital displays which can generate more heat alongside internal components. Switching them off at the outlet when they’re not in use can keep the space cooler.

2. Tumple dryers

You should also be avoiding your tumble dryer and drying clothes outside where possible. If you have a small garden or balcony, Argos Home’s £11 retractable line is great for small spaces.

‘Tumble dryers are among the greatest sources of indoor heat generated in UK households. Using tumble dryers produces a lot of warm air in the immediate environment, quickly making utility rooms, kitchens, and adjacent rooms very warm in no time,’ says Max Wilson, co-founder at Pocket Storage.

‘During times of heatwaves, it is worthwhile to make use of the weather and dry clothes outside whenever possible. It not only keeps your house cooler, but it also cuts back on your expenses.’

3. Standby electronics

Another big culprit for excessive heat is standby electronics. From TVs to game consoles, these all emit extra heat you don’t need during a heatwave.

‘Many people underestimate how much heat everyday electronics generate, even in standby mode. Smart TV’s, games consoles and streaming boxes continually draw power and release low-level heat which can subtly raise room temperature when combined with other appliances,’ says Katie.

‘Try to keep them unplugged when not in use on hot days, as this will not only cut energy consumption but also reduce heat that can make a room feel stuffy.’

4. Chargers and adapters

During the most recent heatwave, I was kind of worried my phone was about to explode whilst charging. It is an old model, but I couldn’t believe the heat coming off it - and experts say you should avoid leaving them plugged in when you don’t need them.

‘Mobile phone chargers, laptop chargers and adapters tend to remain connected to the wall socket at all times. If you've ever picked up an adapter that wasn't in use, only to find out that it was still hot to the touch, it's because it was still using some electricity,’ says Max.

‘As insignificant as the effect is by itself, their cumulative effects lead to energy wastage and generate unwanted heat. Unplugging them would be one way of saving some energy.’

5. Lights

Lastly, your lighting can be generating excess heat and wasting lighting. While layered lighting might be a popular lighting trend, ask yourself if you really need it during hot weather.

‘Lighting is something that is often overlooked as a means of generating unnecessary heat. Older bulbs, in particular, can give off a lot more heat when compared to LED alternatives. Be sure to keep lights switched off as much as possible throughout the day and consider swapping incandescent or halogen bulbs for LEDs,’ says Katie.

If you want to stay cool and save money, make sure you keep these appliances switched off when not in use.

Working, walking, eating, sleeping, being - it all felt rather impossible in this stifling heatwave. So, in a way to beat the heat, I’ve been trying the Alison Hammond-approved sock cooling hack, and it’s great for providing instant relief in hot weather.

I’m not one to usually complain about hot weather, but I’m not lying when I say my flat has felt like a furnace this week. It’s south-facing and stuffy, and I’ve been struggling to cool my home, even with the best cooling hacks at my fingertips.

Given that the best portable air conditioners are basically sold out everywhere, and my best fan is pretty much blowing hot air around my home, I’ve had to get creative. And that involves filling an old sock with rice and stuffing it in the freezer.

The rice and sock cooling hack

I’ve not lost my mind, I promise! But a sock filled with frozen rice has been a game-changer and is helping me stay cool this week. Simply pressing it to my wrists and neck has provided instant relief - especially when working from home.

I say it is Alison Hammond-approved because I first became aware of the hack when the presenter, who is a self-proclaimed genius at staying cool, revealed her trick during a segment on This Morning back in August 2020.

It is incredibly simple. You take a clean sock, fill it with rice and tie the end. Then pop it into your freezer for one to three hours. The result feels like an icy bean bag, which moulds easily to the contours of your body, providing instant relief.

This week, I’ve used the hack to keep me cool when working and when I’m trying to sleep. I’ve even taken to placing it on my pillow while I brush my teeth, so my pillow feels nice and cold when I lie down. Speaking to my mum, I found out she even uses this hack to help keep our elderly dog cool in hot weather.

The frozen rice is not harshly cold. Where putting an ice-pack straight to your skin can feel intense, offering a burning cold, the rice hack is far more subtle. It’s comfortable and cool from the get-go. It also feels completely dry, which surprised me. Unlike an ice pack, you don’t have to worry about water beading down your body or pooling around your home.

My main qualm is that the rice doesn’t stay as cool for as long as I’d like it to, and I find myself putting it back in the freezer around three times a day. Because of this, when payday rolls around, I will be treating myself to the Shark ChillPill (£129.99, Amazon) or the Shark FlexBreeze HydroGo Misting Fan (£149.99, Currys), which both offer hours of powerful cooling.

Having said that, I do think the rice hack is a great, practically free way to cool down, and is a great temporary solution if you don’t have any other cooling products to hand. However, if you plan on using this hack frequently, place your sock in a ziplock bag before putting it in the freezer to maintain good hygiene.

‘If you regularly put and take out the sock with wet rice in it from the freezer, you will eventually get mould, mildew, and a terrible musty odour in your drawers. In order to make this trick fully hygienic and prevent any moisture in your sheets, you have to place the rice-filled sock in a tightly closed Ziploc bag first before freezing it. The moisture becomes blocked off completely, making sure the rice remains perfectly dry,’ says Max Wilson, co-founder at Pocket Storage.

‘Finally, make sure the fabric is right. Only use socks made of pure, thick cotton. Synthetic materials, such as nylon or polyester, cannot tolerate cold temperatures and would lead to ice burns if placed directly on your skin.’

Shop cooling appliances:

As unconventional as a sock filled with frozen rice sounds, it has genuinely helped cool me down when temperatures have soared. I will be saving this trick for the next heatwave!

Seeing that energy bills are set to increase by 13% on average from 1 July, and the temperature is starting to rise, I'm sure, like me, the cost of running any cooling appliances is on your mind. If you’re looking for cheap ways to cool a home during a heatwave, you’re in luck, as I spoke to several energy experts for their three simple hacks.

As much as I adore summer and warm weather (who doesn’t?)My flat often feels like a furnace when temperatures soar. While the best portable air conditioners are one of the best ways to stay cool, they can be expensive investments, costing hundreds of pounds for a unit.

So, if you want to cool a home on a budget and offset rising energy costs, here are three hacks you should try this heatwave.

1. Keep your curtains and blinds closed

One of the easiest (and completely free) ways to help keep your home cool is by keeping your blinds and curtains shut during the hottest parts of the day. This is because it blocks sunlight streaming into your home and increases the temperature.

‘Windows are one of the main sources of heat gain in a home. When sunlight passes through glass, it turns into heat and gets trapped inside. Closing blinds or curtains during peak sunlight hours can reduce this ‘greenhouse effect’, helping interiors stay noticeably cooler without relying on energy-intensive solutions like fans or air conditioning,’ says Yvonne Keal, product expert at Hillarys.

‘With energy prices still a concern following the latest Ofgem announcement, passive cooling methods like this are a smart way to cut costs. By keeping rooms naturally cooler, you can reduce the need for electric fans or portable air conditioning units, which can cost anywhere from 2p to over 30p per hour to run, depending on the appliance.’

Blackout blinds (such as this £14.40 option at Dunelm) and thermal curtains (£26.66 at Argos) can be particularly effective at keeping heat out. This is because they are specially designed to stop heat from escaping in winter and to stop heat from filtering into your home during summer.

2. Turn off heat generating appliances

It turns out that it’s not just sunshine making your home feel too hot. Left-in plugs can also generate excess heat. So, you should ensure you’re switching off all plugs when not in use to reduce temperature and save money on your energy bill (because vampire appliances will add to your bill even when not in use). If you’re someone who often forgets to turn off plugs, it’s worth investing in smart plugs (£29.99, Argos) so you can control your plugs from your phone.

‘Anything that plugs in and warms up, such as ovens, dishwashers, tumble dryers, gaming consoles, or even phone chargers left plugged in, can add a surprising amount of heat to a room. Try running dishwashers and washing machines early in the morning or late at night, and air-dry clothes outside or on a rack rather than using the tumble dryer,’ says Sam Carter, home heating and cooling expert (HVAC) at Appliances Direct.

‘Also, swap oven cooking for salads, cold proteins or microwave meals during the hottest part of the day. You’d be amazed at how much cooler a kitchen feels when the oven hasn’t been on. Switching to ‘no cooking’ meals costs nothing and saves energy too.’

3. Hang a damp sheet over your window

This free hack turns bedding into an air conditioner. All you need to do is hang a bed sheet, which has been dampened in cold water, over your window, and the air will cool as it passes through.

‘As the warmer air enters your home, the moisture on the sheet helps to lower the temperature, creating a cooler, more refreshing breeze. Make sure that the room is well ventilated so that the evaporated water has somewhere to escape to,’ says Ruth MacEachern, ventilation specialist at envirovent.

‘Keeping your home well-ventilated during a heatwave is key to preventing temperatures from rising too much. Small changes can have a big impact, helping to keep your home cool and manageable during warmer periods.’

Stay cool

If you're still struggling to beat the heat, a portable air conditioner really can make a world of difference. If you've been wondering if portable air conditioners are worth it, experts say they cost between 20p and 68p per hour to run, in line with the most recent Price Cap.

Remember, portable air conditioners are already selling out fast across different brands and retailers. Now is the time to buy if you want one.

Rising energy bills can cause stress for any household. Using free cooling hacks where you can will help, but you should reach out to your energy supplier for support if you're stuggling to pay your bills.

I might be a home energy expert, but that doesn't mean I'm nailing it when it comes to the most efficient use of energy in my own home.

While I've adopted loads of ways to save energy around the house, life gets busy and I sometimes cut corners on my good energy habits for the sake of making life a little bit more manageable.

But now that it's been confirmed that the energy price cap is going up by 13% in July, my attention is well and truly back on ways I might be wasting energy unnecessarily. And right off the bat, I know there's one habit I need to curb, and that's running my dishwasher before it's full.

It's the same story with washing machines and tumble dryers, if you run them before they are full, you are potentially doing more loads that you need to, and your appliance is using the same amount of energy to run the cycle for a half-load as it is a full one.

While I do know this, I hate leaving dirty dishes in the dishwasher while I wait until it's full. And sometimes, especially if I am out and about, I may not have a full dishwasher for a couple of days. If the half load is particularly soiled, I definitely don't fancy leaving that for a couple of days, getting all crusted on and smelly. Yuck.

I've often been tempted to rinse the dishes beforehand, it turns out that is one of the dishwasher mistakes that is also adding to household bills too. If that's not enough, cleaning sensation Mrs Hinch also says it's a waste of time.

So as a result, I've been running my dishwasher on half loads to clean the dirty dishes rather than leaving them sitting in there for days. Yes I could handwash them, but after doing without my dishwasher for a month, it's one luxury I don't really want to go without.

But I also know that these little energy wasting habits build up, and while they may not seem to have huge cost implications individually, add them together and you soon see a sizeable impact on energy bills. According to the Energy Saving Trust, by only running full dishwasher loads and reducing your dishwasher use by just one cycle a week can save £11 a year on your energy bills.

If I do that, and choose a more eco-friendly dishwasher setting at the same time, I could save up to £26 per year. If I go even further, and stop using my tumble dryer entirely (I use it less in summer anyway), that could save my £93 a year, and only wash my clothes on a 30°C cycle, I could save an additional £33. Totted up, that equals £152, which will go a long way to offset the £221 increase in the price cap that's coming into force in July 2026.

But if I do opt for eco cycles in my dishwasher and tumble dryer, I need to make sure my detergent is up to the challenge. I've been using some Ecover dishwasher tablets (£16.40 at Amazon) recently, which have impressed me. I also swear by Fairy Platinum Plus dishwasher tablets. For my washing machine, I've also been using the Ecover Bio Laundry Tabs which are effective at removing stains in even a 20°C wash.

However, if I went even further still and stopped using my dishwasher and tumble dryer altogether, and still washed my clothes on a cooling washing cycle, I could save £231, which more than offsets the price cap increase.

Home energy experts are encouraging homeowners to switch to a fixed tariff in light of the July price cap announcement from Ofgem.

The independent energy regulator announced in May that there will be a 13% increase on the current energy price cap for the period between 1 July and 30 September, which has left many consumers looking for ways to save energy at home to help curb rising costs.

Switching to a fixed tariff now could help protect you from further price cap rises for the length of your contract. Here’s everything you need to know.

Why are energy costs increasing?

If you’re worried about energy bills going up, let’s first explore what the price cap actually means. The price cap refers to a default tariff which is applied to those that are not on a fixed rate tariff, where the price they pay for each unit of energy they use is fixed for the duration of the tariff (usually 12-24 months). The cap is set up the energy regulator Ofgem and is reviewed every three months to reflect wholesale energy prices. The cap sets a maximum rate per unit of energy and the daily standing charge that can be billed to households that are on their supplier's standard variable tariffs.

If you are on a fixed rate tariff, your bill will not be affected by fluctuations in the energy price cap.

But conflict in the Middle East has caused wholesale energy prices to spike, which is why the energy price cap is set to rise in July.

‘Unit prices are set by Ofgem’s Energy Price Cap quarterly and are determined by what is happening with wholesale prices. The changes impact you if you are on your provider’s standard variable tariff,’ says Kalpana Fitzpatrick, Digital Editor-in-Chief of MoneyWeek.

‘If prices go down, this means you are better off if prices slide, but so far we are not seeing this for 2026. We already know the price cap is up for July, and the next one will come into play in October, and could rise further. But even if we see the price cap fall in October, it is unlikely to dip massively.’

Should you fix your tariff?

Because of the volatility of wholesale energy prices right now, it can be a good idea to consider fixing your tariff.

‘If you’re already on a fixed contract, then the price you pay for your energy is locked in for the length of your contract. It doesn't always mean that you pay less for your energy, but it does offer stability as you know that the price you pay for the energy you use won’t fluctuate,’ explains Gareth Kloet, energy expert at Go.Compare Energy.

‘Your unit rates won’t move around with quarterly cap changes for the term of your contract, which can make budgeting easier. The main trade-off for this, though, is flexibility: if prices do ease later, you could be paying more than those on a variable tariff for your energy. Most fixed deals come with exit fees, so it’s important to check your contract end date and any charges before switching.’

As Kalpana says, it is unlikely that prices will dip considerably over the coming months, so right now, it is advisable to switch to a fixed tariff if you’re looking to save money at home.

‘The best way to protect yourself is to shift over to a fixed tariff where unit prices are set for a fixed period,’ she says.

‘And to make sure you get the best possible fixed deal, shop around using comparison sites. You may be able to find a fixed rate below the cap or perhaps just slightly more, but you will have locked in a price that gives you security over future price hikes.

‘And if you are not paying by direct debit, you should if you can, as those paying by direct debit are offered cheaper deals.’

If you plan on switching to a fixed tariff, it’s really important that you do your research beforehand.

‘The key thing to do before you commit to a fixed tariff is research: if you’re currently in a fixed tariff and want to move to a different, possibly cheaper tariff, consider any exit fees and whether they will counter any savings. And if you’re going from a variable tariff to a fixed rate tariff, shop around. There are lots of options out there, so consider your energy needs before you commit,’ says Gareth.

‘It’s important to compare the whole tariff, not just the headline rate, as standing charges can make a big difference. This is especially key if you don’t use a lot of energy as they are a fee you pay every day, regardless of how much energy you use.’

Reduce your energy consumption to offset bill rises

While switching to a fixed-price tariff can protect you temporarily from future price rises, it's still a good idea to cut down on any unnecessary energy usage to keep your bill as low as possible.

Using smart devices and controls can help you reduce energy wastage and help set you up for lower energy bills in the long term, which will help you weather any future price cap volatility.

If you’re worried about the cost of your energy bills, you should reach out to your energy supplier to see what support they can offer. Alternatively, you speak to an independent body such as Citizens Advice, which can advise you on your options.

Lidl has launched an affordable solar battery in Germany, at an ideal time to help households offset rising energy prices.

The battery is designed to work with most plug-in solar panels, which are already common across parts of Europe. Neither the battery or the panels are currently available in the UK, but that could change as the government announced plans to upgrade grid codes and wiring rules to allow plug-in solar panels and connected batteries to be used safely.

This tech could be available in the UK in months, which is fortuitous timing given that Ofgem has just announced that the energy price cap will be rising by 13% in July.

By teaming a plug-in solar panel with a battery, you could store energy that you don't use in real time and use it later. This could reduce the amount of energy you need to buy from the grid and lower energy bills as a result.

According to PV Magazine, Lidl's newest solar offering is a 2.24kWh battery, with a 1,000W input and 800W output and is compatible with most plug-in solar panel systems. The battery unit measures 31cm × 17cm × 350cm and weighs approximately 19.8kgs. In terms of price, the Lidl battery costs €299, which is about £260, and there is an app-controlled version that Lidl is also selling for €399 (roughly £345). Those who buy the battery will need to buy the plug-in solar panels and microinverter separately.

While the cost of traditional rooftop solar panel installations can be completely unaffordable for many, plug-in solar options, including those with a solar battery, can be a lot more affordable. But, while both rooftop and plug-in solutions both harness the sun's energy and turn it into usable electricity in your home, there are stark differences between the two set-ups that you should be aware of before you choose one over the other.

If plug-in solar is the right option for you, you'll have to wait a little while longer before you can set it up in your home. There's not yet been confirmation as to when households will be able to buy plug-in solar panels in the UK, and until they are on sale, the associated solar batteries won't be seen on shelves either. While you wait, you could always invest in a portable solar panel and power bank, like the Jackery Explorer 1000 v2+ 100W Solar Panel Portable Power Station (£549 at Amazon).

If your home feels too hot, you could benefit from leaving your blinds down all day, experts have revealed.

This week, it has been undeniably sweltering. With many homes across the country designed to retain heat, it has been unbearably stuffy. But as well as whipping out your best fans and best portable air conditioner to help cool, it’s also helpful to keep your curtains or blinds drawn where you can.

If you’re desperate to keep your home cool this summer, keeping your blinds shut during the hottest parts of the day can help block sunlight streaming through, which can otherwise cause indoor temperatures to rise. Here’s everything you need to know.

What's the hack?

Keeping your curtains drawn during a heatwave is not a new home cooling hack, but it is one worth reminding ourselves of now that the temperatures are soaring.

‘In a heatwave, keeping your blinds or curtains closed during the hottest parts of the day is one of the simplest and most effective ways to keep your home cool,' explains Yvonne Keal, senior product management specialist at Hillarys.

'Sunlight streaming through windows can quickly raise indoor temperatures, so closing blinds, particularly on south- and west-facing windows, helps to block out solar heat before it even enters the room.'

Blinds act as a barrier, reducing heat gain and helping to maintain a more comfortable indoor temperature. This can make a noticeable difference, especially in rooms that receive direct sunlight for long periods.

Blackout blinds or thermal-lined options are particularly effective, but honeycomb blinds, such as Duette®, are especially good in a heatwave. Their unique cellular structure traps air within pockets, creating an insulating layer that helps keep heat out in summer and warmth in during winter.

In addition to keeping your blinds drawn during the hottest part of the day, experts suggest keeping your windows closed. While this may sound counterintuitive, it’s about treating your home a little like a cool box and preventing heat from entering your home.

‘If you have blackout curtains, keep these closed as well for an additional barrier. During the day, windows are best kept closed, or you’ll just be letting more hot air in. It’s best to open windows early morning and late evening when it’s cooler to allow fresh airflow through the home,’ adds Heath Showman, founder of Lifestyle Blinds.

‘One of the best ways you can keep a room cool, however, is by creating external shading to block sunlight before it even hits the glass window. Exterior shutters, or outdoor structures such as a pergola or gazebo, can help keep rooms cooler when positioned directly outside sun-facing windows or doors.’

Alternatively, here are a few more cooling products we swear by to help beat the heat.

Were you already aware of this cooling or hack? Or, will you be testing it out for yourself this summer?

The weather might be warming up and, like me, many households have switched off their heating, but that doesn’t mean you should forget about your energy bills over the warmer months.

With energy prices predicted to rise in July due to tensions in the Middle East, it’s still just as important as ever to take steps to save energy around the home.

Fortunately, this process doesn’t have to be difficult or involve complicated tasks. In fact, I recently made it my mission to carry out some quick 10-minute fixes around my home to see how much I could save on my bills, and I think they'll work for you too.

1. Swapping to LED bulbs

First up, I decided to ensure all the light bulbs in my home were switched to long, lasting energy-efficient LED bulbs. Having noticed that some of the old bulbs were emitting a lot of heat, I knew that switching to LED bulbs would have several benefits.

‘Traditional halogen and incandescent bulbs need replacing more often and use up to five times more electricity than low-energy alternatives, which means they often cost more to run long-term,’ says energy expert Ben Gallizzi from Uswitch.

‘By replacing every bulb in your home with LEDs of the same brightness, you could save around £40 a year on your electricity bill.’

It was really quick and easy to do and while the savings aren’t massive, it’s pretty decent for a small switch.

2. Switching appliances off at the wall

While there are a few counter-top kitchen appliances you should never leave on standby, there are plenty of other vampire devices that will be unnecessarily sucking energy from your home.

And so making sure no appliances were left on standby mode was another task of mine. It only takes a few minutes to check that all appliances are switched off at the wall.

I tend to do this at the end of the day or if I am going out. It’s surprising how many of my family members leave things on standby!

According to the Energy Saving Trust, this simple task can save around £45 a year.

3. Draught-proofing the windows

My bedroom windows tend to let cold air in through the cracks. However, by investing in some draught-proofing tape (foam strips), £4 from Amazon, I’ve managed to seal up those cracks to keep the room warmer, which is particularly important while the nights are still cool!

This job was a little more fiddly than some, but it certainly wasn’t difficult. The Energy Saving Trust reckons that draught proofing doors and windows should save up to £85 a year. For me, that’s less likely as it’s only two windows but even a saving of £10 a year would help.

4. Filling up the washing machine

In the past I have been guilty of sticking on the washing machine even when it’s not full, just to get a few items of clothing clean. But no more! From now on, the washing machine always has a full load before I switch it on.

‘Running one full load instead of two half-loads can roughly cut the energy and water usage in half for that amount of laundry,’ says Matthew Glynn, appliance expert at Hisense.

‘However, overloading your washing machine means your items won’t be properly cleaned, so always aim to load your washing machine to the point there is roughly a "hand's span" of space at the top of the drum, allowing clothes to move freely through a wash cycle.’

Washing one less load per week and turning the temperature down to 30°C instead of 40°C can save around £27 a year, according to the Energy Saving Trust.

5. Hanging the washing outside more often

Finer weather means it’s now much easier to get my washing out on the line rather than relying on the tumble dryer or one of the best heated airers to dry clothes.

Admittedly it takes a little more time to get it all outside, rather than tossing it into the dryer. But doing so can bring savings of around £50 a year, so it’s definitely worth it. Plus it has the added bonus of making my washing smell fresher.

6. Using the eco setting on the dishwasher

I have also made the switch to using the eco setting on my dishwasher for most cycles. The cycle takes a bit longer but it still gets the dishes clean and it’s saving me around £35 a year for minimal effort. I’m saving on water too, so it’s a double win.

How much will I save on my energy bills with these changes?

On their own, the energy savings I am making aren’t huge, but when you add them together, it works out to be a saving of around £207 a year. That’s pretty impressive when these tasks haven’t taken me long or negatively affected my lifestyle in any way — in fact, many have come with added benefits.

I'm not ashamed to admit that I am a creature of habit. And that extends into all areas of my life, from where I go on holiday and my outfit choices, all the way to the settings I tend to use on my washing machine and dishwasher.

While many of these habits offer no negative outcome, that may not be the case when it comes to my appliances. After all, different settings use different amounts of energy, and using the wrong one (or not using the right one) means wasting energy unnecessarily. Definitely not a desirable result considering energy prices are likely to rise in the summer as the impact of current world events manifests in the energy price cap.

So I'm trying to be more mindful about how I use my most energy hungry appliances. I went a month without using my dishwasher (which I'm not sure I can stick with long term), which meant it was more important that ever to be more mindful of the settings I was using. And I noticed there was one setting that I never used, but that could actually be a much more energy efficient setting.

The dishwasher setting I always skipped and why

My dishwasher has six different settings, and I usually gravitate towards either the Eco, Intensive or Quick & Shine options depending on how dirty the dishes are and how quickly I want them washed. But if energy bills are going to go up, I also want to make sure I can save energy at home where I can.

I regularly use the Eco setting, which runs at 50°C (10-20°C cooler that the Quick & Shine or Intensive cycles), but takes much longer. Eco takes a whopping 239 minutes, while the Intensive cycle takes a sizeable 164, and the Quick & Shine takes a very speedy 58 minutes.

But in all the years I've had the dishwasher, I have never once used the Mini setting, which runs at 35°C and takes just 30 minutes. I'd always assumed that a Mini wash would either be much more energy intensive than the Eco setting, or nowhere near as effective as one of the other cycles.

But was I right or had I been missing out? I put it to the test. Logic tells me that a quick and low temperature dishwasher cycle is never going to be enough to clean heavily soiled dishes from the likes of oven bakes or roasts. Instead I tried it with light-medium soiled dishes from breakfast and lunch to see how it fared. And honestly, I could see no discernable difference between results from the Eco and Mini cycles.

And so I tried it with slightly more soiled dishes and saw no real difference in outcome between the the Mini and Quick & Shine cycles. I will caveat that by saying that the results may also be down to the detergent I used, which is designed to be effective at lower temperatures. I used Ecover's All-in-One Power dishwasher tablets, (£8.50 at Amazon).

Have I been wasting energy?

While the Eco setting is, unsurprisingly, the most energy efficient cycle my dishwasher has — using 0.73kWh of energy each wash, which equates to 18p per cycle. While that's the most cost effective cycle, sometimes the duration of the programme (almost 4 hours) is off-putting.

Because of that, I do use the Quick & Shine cycle when I want dishes cleaned quickly. While that setting is 3 hours quicker, it runs hotter, which means it uses more energy. Each Quick & Shine cycle uses 1.12kWh of energy, which based on current energy prices, costs just under 28p per cycle.

When I use the Intensive programme, it uses 1.25kWh and costs just under 31p each time.

In comparison, the Mini cycle uses only slightly more energy than the Eco setting (0.74kWh), despite taking 209 minutes less. In cost terms, there is about a quarter of a penny difference between the Eco and Mini cycles. While the Eco and Mini cycles are on par with each other in terms of energy usage, the difference in duration makes the Mini programme all the more appealing.

However, in my desire for speedy dishwashing, there's a 10p difference in the cost of running the Quick & Shine cycle versus the Mini programme. That might not sound like much, but if I swapped using the Quick & Shine setting three times a week for the Mini setting, over the course of a year, I would save more than £15 on my energy bills.

And saving £15 with no real difference in the cleanliness of my dishes feels like a no-brainer for me! That said, I will still use the Intensive cycle when the dishes earn it.

Add this to washing my clothes on a cooler cycle, and I could significantly reduce how much energy I was wasting.

As someone who writes about saving energy for a living, I love setting myself little challenges to see if I can use less energy around my own home.

I've already tackled two of my most used and energy-hungry appliances — I went without my tumble dryer for a month, and then followed suit by switching from using my dishwasher to handwashing for the same amount of time.

Next energy-guzzler on my list? My washing machine. While I definitely cannot do without using my washing machine at all for a month, I did switch from my go-to cycles to a cooler wash for 4 weeks to see how much energy I could save, and importantly whether my clothes came out as clean.

Which washing machine cycles did I stop using?

I tend to use my washing machine 3-4 times a week, and tend to use either a 40° or 60° wash depending on what what I'm washing and how dirty it is (I'm regularly in woods and fields with my dog, who loves to greet me enthusiastically when incredibly muddy).

Over a normal four week period, this is how much energy I'd be using according to my washing machine's instruction manual, and how much it's costing based on the April 2026 price cap of 24.67p/kWh for a unit of electricity.

Totting this up, my washing machine costs £3.94 to run over a four week period, which adds up to £51.22 a year.

But according to E.ON, around 90% of the energy used by a washing machine goes to heating the water, so its safe to say that I could reduce energy wastage and save money on my energy bills by switching to a cooler washing cycle.

How much did I save by switching to a cooler wash?

Instead of using my normal washing cycles, I used my washing machine's Push & Wash cycle, which is describes as being ideal for cotton and synthetic fabrics. It washes at a temperature of 30° with a maximum spin speed 14% less than the cycles I normally use (1200rpm rather than 1400rpm).

This cycle uses 0.35kWh per use according to my smart meter. Used 16 times over a four-week period, this tots up to £1.38 based on current energy prices, £2.56 cheaper than the cycles I was using previously.

Over a year, using only that cooler cycle would cost £17.94, £33.28 (65%) cheaper than the annual cost of the hotter cycles.

Did my clothes come out as clean?

A big concern for many people around switching to a cooler washing cycle, is that laundry won't be cleaned effectively.

Fortunately, more and more detergents are available that work on cleaning clothes on washes as cool as 20°, like Ecover's laundry capsules (£8 from Amazon), that I used.

I've not seen a noticeable difference in how clean my clothes are when they come out of a cooler wash. They smell and feel nice, and any marks are gone. I did use both a bio version of the detergent, which uses enzymes to help break down any stains, as well as a non-bio version, and both seemed effective.

I will say though, that apart from some mud stains, I wasn't dealing with any heavily soiled laundry loads during my experiment. I also don't live in a household with any one who was poorly or works in a healthcare environment, where there is benefit to washing at higher temperatures in order to get rid of any nasty germs.

There's been a lot of buzz around plug-in solar panels but how do they actually compare with more conventional panels on all the things that matter, like price, installation and their impact on energy bills?

With plug-in solar panels soon to be available in the UK amidst a government drive to lower energy bills, this energy-saving technology is becoming more readily available and affordable than ever before.

However there are fundamental differences in how plug-in solar panels work and the savings that can be achieved compared to traditional panels. And it's worth having a handle on how these systems differ before you commit to one.

How do plug-in solar panels compare to traditional solar panels?

Solar panels are available in different types and configurations, with plug-in models soon to hit the UK (following huge popularity in other parts of Europe). But while they all work by capturing the sun's rays and turning them into energy to be used around the home, there are significant differences.

Purchase price

Although plug-in panel kits are not yet available, it's expected that they will have a considerably smaller price tag than rooftop solar panels.

'A full plug-in kit is expected to cost around £400 to £500 and will be available in a range of shops, including Lidl and John Lewis,' explains George Penny, solar panel and energy expert at The Solar Co.

On the other hand, a full rooftop installation of solar photovoltaic (PV) panels starts at around £5,000-7,000. Including a solar battery and any bird deterrents could add to the cost.

Installation

A huge difference between solar PV and plug-in solar panels is the installation process.

'Traditional solar panels are professionally installed on a roof, connected to an inverter and often paired with battery storage,' explains Charlie Findlay, Managing Director at Mole Energy. 'Plug‑in panels are much smaller, usually 1–2 panels rather than a full array and are designed to be quicker to install with minimal disruption. They don’t replace a full solar installation, but they can offer a simpler entry point into generating your own renewable energy.'

As well as being installed at height, traditional panels are hardwired into your home's electric, both of which should be tackled by a qualified professional. On the other hand, plug-in solar panels are designed to be mounted on fences, sheds or balconies instead and can be plugged into one of your home's electrical sockets, which means they can be installed on a DIY basis for free.

Energy generating capacity

While the purchase price and easy installation of a plug-in solar panel kit will be hugely appealing to many, it's worth managing your expectations as to how much electricity it can generate.

'A 400W plug-in panel in a reasonably sunny spot might generate around 300–350 kWh per year,' explains John Collett, Director at Quantum Renewables. 'It won't transform your bills the way a full 4kW rooftop system can,' he says, 'but with a payback period as short as four to five years, for renters in particular it's a compelling option that simply hasn't existed before.'

Impact on energy bills

With such a difference in how much electricity plug-in solar panels can generate compared to their PV counterparts, there is also understandably a big variation in how much you can reduce your energy bills by.

'In terms of savings, the government estimates a typical household could knock between £70 and £110 off their annual electricity bill,' says George Penny of plug-in solar panels. 'That works out to a payback period of about four to five years, after which the power you generate is essentially free for the next 15 years or more.

'With savings of £110 per year, this would essentially mean that after an initial £400 outlay, plug-in solar panels could save consumers £1,250 on their energy bills over a 15 year period.'

However if you are a homeowner looking for more substantial savings, conventional solar panels may be a more suitable route. 'A full rooftop system saves you more, with a typical 3-bed house with 10 panels and a battery saving up to £1,700 a year, but you’ll face a longer period of time to break even on that much bigger upfront spend,' adds George. 'For those that are renting or someone in a flat without direct access to, or ownership of, their roof, saving a hundred quid a year on a £400 outlay is a perfectly decent return, especially when you can take the whole system with you when you move.'

FAQs

With the threat of rising energy prices looming, taking steps to reduce how much energy you need to buy from the grid now could help you better deal with price rises down the line.

While reducing energy wastage around the home is always a good idea, another option is to generate more of your own electricity at home with solar panels. But solar panels can be hugely expensive to install and aren't suitable for those who live in flats or rental properties.

However, with the news that plug-in solar panels could be available in shops and supermarkets within months, harnessing solar power to reduce your energy bills is set to become easier and more affordable than ever before. That's why it's worth understanding how this tech actually works to see if it could be the right option for your home. I asked the experts exactly what plug-in solar panels were, how they work, and how they differ from solar panels.

What are plug-in solar panels?

While all types of solar panels will take energy from the sun and convert it into electricity for your home, more traditional panels will need to be hardwired into your home's electrics, which will need to be done by an electrician. Plug-in solar panels, on the other hand and as the name suggests, don't need to be hardwired and can instead be plugged straight into a socket.

'Plug-in solar panels are compact, self-install kits that connect directly to a normal wall socket, rather than hardwiring them into your home’s electrics,' explains George Penny, Solar Panel and Energy Expert at The Solar Co. 'They can be thought of as the entry-level version of solar, typically just one or two panels with a microinverter that turns the sun’s energy into usable power for your kettle or TV.'

Kits will 'typically include one or two panels, a micro-inverter to convert DC to AC power, and a plug that feeds electricity straight into your home's circuit,' adds John Collett, Director at Quantum Renewables. 'They're already hugely popular in Germany and the Netherlands, and the UK is now catching up.'

By using a plug-in solar panel, you will be able to generate some of your own electricity, and reduce how much you need to buy from the grid, bringing down your monthly energy bills.

How do plug-in solar panels actually work?

Unlike more traditional solar panels, which are designed to sit on your roof, plug-in solar panels can instead be installed on balconies, fences, garden sheds or external walls. For maximum benefits, you'd ideally install them on a south-facing structure. Once placed, they simply need to be plugged into one of your home's plug-sockets (either an indoor socket or a weatherproofed external outlet).

Once set up, the solar panels will capture sunlight and convert it into a direct current (DC). But in order to use the power through your home's sockets, the direct current will need to be converted into an alternating current (AC). This is where the microinverter comes in.

'When the panels generate electricity, that power is fed straight into the home and used by appliances running at the time, helping to reduce the amount of electricity drawn from the grid,' adds Charlie Findlay, Managing Director at Mole Energy.

There may also be ways to store the energy they generate, if European set ups are anything to go by. In Germany, Lidl recently launches a solar battery to work with plug-in solar panels, so there is a chance this kind of tech may soon be available in the UK too.

How are plug-in solar panels different from traditional solar panels?

While plug-in and more traditional solar panels both convert energy from the sun into electrical power to be used in the home, there are some sizable differences.

Upfront costs and installation

Traditional solar panels can cost thousands upfront to buy and have professionally installed which prevents them from being a feasible option for many. Plug-in solar panels, however, are likely to be much more affordable, costing hundreds rather than thousands.

The costs and complexities associated with solar panel installation are also removed with a plug-in solar kit, which can be set up on a DIY basis. 'The big difference from a conventional rooftop system is that there's no scaffolding, no structural work, no MCS-certified installer required, and no grid connection paperwork, explains John Collett. 'You buy a kit, attach the panel to a balcony railing, south-facing wall, or flat roof edge, plug it in, and it immediately starts reducing what you draw from the grid. They make solar accessible in a way it simply hasn't been before.'

How much energy they generate

Another huge difference between a conventional solar panel system and plug-in solar panels is how much electricity they generate.

'A standard rooftop solar installation is hard-wired, professionally designed around your property, and can generate several thousand kilowatt-hours a year,' explains Kian Milroy, Renewables Electrical Engineer at Heatable. 'Plug-in solar is much smaller, probably under 800W, and it's designed to chip away at your background daytime electricity use rather than power a whole home. Think fridges, routers, devices you leave running during the day.'

Charlie Findlay adds: 'They don’t replace a full solar installation, but they can offer a simpler entry point into generating your own renewable energy.'

How much you can save on your energy bills

If you want a sizeable reduction in your electricity bills, it's unlikely that you will achieve that with a plug-in solar panel kit. Instead a more traditional set up, including more panels and a solar battery, may be better suited.

Plug-in solar panels are much more likely to offer a smaller reduction in bills by reducing how much electricity you buy from the grid.

Who are plug-in solar panels best suited to?

While plug-in solar panels won't suit every home, they do provide the ideal solar solution for some circumstances and properties.

These include:

• Renters who don't want to make permanent changes to a property
• Those who live in flats or apartments with balconies
• Those with tight budgets could benefit from some savings by using plug-in solar panels
• Those who want to try out solar before committing to a permanent installation.

Can UK homes use plug-in solar panels yet?

While you might be seeing news about plug-in solar panels all over the place, there are some rule changes that need to happen before you can install a plug-in solar panel kit at home.

'The government announced in March 2026 that it plans to update the grid code and wiring rules so sub-800W systems can plug into a normal domestic socket without needing an electrician, but those changes haven't formally come into effect yet,' explains Kian Milroy. 'Products could be on shelves within months once the safety standards are signed off.

'If a property has older electrics, it's genuinely worth getting a qualified electrician to check the wiring before buying anything, even once the legislation lands. The government's direction of travel is clear, but buying before the framework is in place is a risk people should understand.'

The updated legislation will come in to force on 27 August 2026, with the panels expected to be available for sale soon after.

While you wait for plug-in panels to become available, you could try a portable solar panel, like this one from Argos (£59), to use sunlight to charge your devices.

Be honest. Do you turn your counter-top kitchen appliances off when you're not using them?

Like many people, I like to think I'm pretty good at saving energy at home. I've dealt with draughts, use radiator reflectors and I'm meticulous at turning lights off when I leave a room.

However, I've got to admit I am terrible at turning my kettle, microwave and air fryer off at the wall when I'm not using them. And according to the Energy Saving Trust, I'm wasting £45 a year on my energy bills by leaving appliances on standby instead of turning them off properly.

In a bid to form some habits that people with consistently low energy bills have, I asked the experts about the vampire appliances that sit on kitchen counters that should be turned off when not in use.

1. Kettle

'Your kettle is the biggest energy consumer when it comes to counter-top kitchen appliances, costing £105.45 per year based on average usage,' says energy expert Ben Gallizzi from Uswitch. 'Bad habits drive these costs up even more, with 68% of households admitting to boiling more water in the kettle than needed, costing an extra £38 a year on energy bills. Almost three quarters (72%) also reboil the kettle when forgetting to use the water the first time, adding £56 annually.'

I do my best to only boil the water I need in order to use my kettle in the most energy efficient way, but I never think to turn it off at the wall when I'm done.

Even if I upgraded to one of the best kettles around, if I don't unplug the kettle when it's not in use, I'm wasting energy and paying more on my energy bills than I need to. According to data from Electric Radiators Direct, leaving your kettle in stand by mode will cost an additional 41p per month, or £4.97 a year.*

2. Air fryer

Air fryers are hugely popular with those looking to embrace a more energy-efficient way of cooking. I've been using mine on a regular basis for the last six years, but while I love that an air fryer is cheaper to run than an oven, I don't love the idea of how much energy I'm wasting by leaving it on standby mode.

According to Electric Radiators Direct's data, leaving my air fryer plugged in when not in use is costing me around 32p a month, or £3.89 a year.*

3. Slow cooker

Similar to air fryers, slow cookers are another counter-top culprit for wasting energy when they're not actively being used, also costing 32p a month just in standby mode, or £3.89 a year.

'Putting something into standby mode is not the same as totally switching off a device or unplugging it. You’re only really putting the device to sleep,' says energy efficiency expert Stephen Hankinson from Electric Radiators Direct.

'This means that it will be drawing out some electricity in the background, which is where the phrase ‘vampire device’ comes from.  

'It sounds so simple but switching your appliances off at the wall really is the best way to ensure you’re not spending your hard-earned income on keeping things in standby mode.'

4. Microwave

My microwave has a digital display, which means it's constantly using energy 24/7, regardless of whether I am cooking or not. And considering my oven also has a digital display and I wear a watch, realistically, I don't need to be able to tell the time from three different sources every time I step into the kitchen.

So I'm definitely going to start turning my microwave off at the wall. By doing so, I'll save myself 40p per month in unnecessary energy use, or £4.75 a year*.

5. Coffee machine

Now I'm not a coffee-drinker myself, but I do understand how investing in one of the best coffee machines is a great way to kick your coffee shop habit in favour of something more cost effective.

But while you might be saving on your daily beverages, leaving your coffee machine plugged in when you're not using will eat into those savings you are making — 16p a month, or £1.97 a year*.

This might not seem like much in isolation, but when you add it together with other appliances you might also be leaving plugged in, and beyond the kitchen, it quickly tots up to a more significant amount of money you are paying in wasted energy.

What can happen if you don't switch off these kitchen appliances?

While leaving these appliances switched on at the plug uses energy unnecessarily, it could pose further risks to your appliances and your safety.

'Turning appliances off standby will help protect your equipment in case of a power surge, which can occur after a storm or power cut,' explains Ben Gallizzi. 'Surges can damage electronics, so taking the time to turn them off standby can help avoid costly repairs in the long-run.

'There is also a key safety element to turning kitchen appliances off standby. While the risk is small, electrical faults can occur and cause house fires. While it may not be essential for everyday use, if you’re going away for extended periods, it’s worth unplugging countertop appliances like kettles, toasters, coffee machines.'

How to turn off your appliances

In many cases, switching off your appliances will be as simple as flicking the switch on your plug socket and pulling the plug out of the wall.

However, not all plug sockets are easy to reach on a regular basis. In which case using a smart plug, like the Tapo P100 (4-pack, £27.20 from Amazon) may be a better solution. This is also an option if, like me, you know you will forget to turn them off.

*based on data from Electric Radiators Direct and an average electricity price of 27p/kWh.

With four of us in the house, the dishwasher is often in use. Between juggling work and after school clubs, meal times can sometimes feel rushed, so we end up resorting to using the dishwasher at least five times a week.

The good news is that dishwashers are actually more eco-friendly than handwashing dishes. So I'm already part way there!

However, as energy bills have remained high over the past few years, it has been my mission to find new ways to save energy around the home, which will have a positive effect on our energy bills. Better still, if they are quick 10-minute energy fixes. And that’s meant doing a bit of research around the settings on our dishwasher to see which is most energy-efficient, and therefore cost-effective.

Why I switched from the standard to the eco setting on my dishwasher

Around a month ago, I made the switch to using the eco setting on our dishwasher in a bid to save energy.

The eco setting on my particular Hisense dishwasher takes around 1 hour 10 minutes longer than the standard setting, and a total of 3 hours 41 minutes. So it’s natural to assume that the eco setting would use more energy than the standard.

However, after doing some research I realised that because the eco cycle washes dishes at a lower temperature — often around 45° to 55°C instead of 60° to 70°C — it actually uses less energy. And as a result, making the switch to eco is an easy way to lower energy bills.

‘Although the run time can be a lot longer, it is estimated that this setting could reduce your water usage by up to 25% and electricity usage by 33% (based on 260 cycles in one year) due to pumps running for longer instead of heaters,’ says Natasha Payne, heated laundry and dishwasher expert at AO.

‘The biggest bonus of all, is that the total average savings for UK households can amount anywhere between £20 – £50 per year if they regularly use eco mode.’

Do my dishes still come out clean?

Initially I was concerned that the lower temperature might mean the dishes weren’t as clean as before. But so far that has not been the case.

When using the eco cycle, dishes are soaked and rinsed for longer which means dried-on food softens and breaks down before being washed away.

Modern dishwasher detergents are designed to work as effectively in lower temperatures too, using enzymes that target grease, starch and proteins. These enzymes actually work best over longer contact times, which is why eco cycles can still deliver a thorough clean.

Having said that, there are limits to the eco cycle, and a hotter wash is still recommended in certain situations.

For instance, I still use a hotter cycle for items such as roasting trays with heavily baked-on grease, as the hotter, more intensive cycle fully breaks down the fat. For health reasons, it’s also safer to use a higher temperature wash for items such as kitchen chopping boards or utensils that have been in contact with raw meat.

But for general, everyday cooking and normally soiled dishes, for me, the eco setting works just fine.

What impact has it had on my energy bills?

As yet, switching to the eco cycle hasn’t had a huge effect on my energy bills, but that’s because the daily and weekly savings aren’t particularly noticeable. However, over time, the savings should build up.

The eco cycle on my dishwasher uses 0.87kWh of energy. At my current electricity rate of 25.40p per kWh, this works out to be around 22p per cycle, or £1.11 a week if I run it five times.

The standard setting uses more energy, up to 1.4kWh per cycle, depending on factors such as the room temperature and load size. This works out to be around 35.6p a cycle, or £1.78 a week.

That’s a difference of around 67p a week, or around £35 a year, simply by switching between eco and standard settings. So overall, it’s a pretty decent saving for no extra work.

A further benefit of using the eco cycle is the amount of water I save. The eco setting uses 11 litres of water per cycle, while the standard setting can use up to 20.5 litres per cycle. And with that fact that water bills have just gone up, that’s another saving I will happily make.

As someone who writes about saving energy for a living, I like to think I'm pretty good at practising what I preach. But when life gets busy, it's all too easy for measures to reduce my energy bills to get pushed further and further down the to-do list.

While I've rectified the energy-wasting decor mistakes I've been making for years, I know there is always more I could be doing to save energy at home.

And there's one thing I've been putting off for ages, and I'm horrified to discover that over the course of a year, it's been costing me £100s in wasted energy. The one thing? Draught proofing.

How much could I save by draught proofing my home?

According to the Energy Saving Trust, draught proofing around doors, windows and floors could save around £85 a year on energy bills, while draught-proofing an open chimney (obviously while the fire is not in use) can save an additional £60 a year.

Addressing draughts can also mean your home is more comfortable at a lower temperature, so you could also save around £90 a year just by turning the thermostat down a single degree.

That all tots up to a whopping £235 a year spent on wasted energy.

I'm fortunate that my floors and windows aren't really an issue, but I have definitely spotted gaps around my front door (near to where my thermostat is) that could have contributed to higher-than-necessary energy bills over winter. While I don't have a traditional chimney, there is a flue from my capped-off fireplace that whistles on a windy day, suggesting a draught.

And the good news is that in my case, resolving these problems is easy and inexpensive. I'll just need some draught excluder tape for around the door (£5.99 from Amazon) and a magnetic fireplace draught blocker (£11.63, Amazon).

However, older houses with more significant issues with draughts may need more extensive draught proofing with the help of a professional. It's also important not to draught-proof to the point of negatively impacting effective ventilation, which is key for a healthy home and moisture control.

For me, now feels like the ideal time to tackle these issues. While many people wait until the winter to address their draughtproofing needs in order to keep the heat in, I want to get it sorted now to help keep the heat out in summer. Every little bit will help reduce the need to resort to energy-hungry air conditioning!

I'm not ashamed to say that I love my dishwasher and it's easily one of the most used appliances in my home.

But with energy prices potentially going up in the summer, I do want to make some easy changes now that may mean saving energy, and therefore lowering my energy bills, down the line. Plus I write about how to save energy at home for a living, so I do like to practice what I preach, like not using my tumble dryer for a month to see how much I could save.

And so I challenged myself to forgo using my dishwasher for the entire month of March and instead resort to handwashing all of my dishes. While I started off well, and undoubtedly saved myself some money in the process, by the end of the month I was definitely counting down the days until I could use my dishwasher again.

This is why.

How much money did I save by not using my dishwasher?

Switching to hand washing instead of using my dishwasher saved me just under £9 over the course of March. For a bit of context, I have a Beko DIS16R10 integrated dishwasher that I tend to use on average eight times per week. I work from home, so I have dirty crockery and cutlery from breakfast, lunch and dinner, and like to put the dishwasher on each evening. Depending on how much needs cleaning, and whether I've been entertaining, I may run it more often or if I don't have a full load, I'll hold off until the next day.

Over the course of the week, I'll use either the Eco setting, Quick & Shine or Intensive mode depending on how dirty the dishes are. For the sake of working out how much energy I saved by not using my dishwasher, my best estimate is that I use the intensive setting twice a week, and the other two modes three times a week each.

According to the instruction manual for my dishwasher, this is how much energy each of the programmes uses, and how much each cycle costs based on the April 2026 energy price cap for electricity (which is 24.67p per kWh):

And so each week, with three Eco programmes, three Quick & Shines, and two Intensive, my dishwasher costs £2 to run, and over the course of the month of March, that adds up to around £8.86 per month. Over the course of a year, that tots up to more than £106.

Was the saving worth it?

While the thought of saving more than £100 on my energy bills over the course of the year is definitely appealing, the reality of switching to handwashing completely, for me, is not.

Firstly, ever since childhood, I have had a bizarre aversion to certain kinds of foam which extends to things like bubbles from washing up liquid. And that meant I hated every second of actually doing the washing up (but I'm a grown up, so I persisted).

Secondly, combine that aversion with a lack of motivation especially after a particularly yummy and filling dinner (where I'd seemingly used every single pan and pot I own) and I'd quickly find myself with a stack of dirty dishes on the side, which I hated. If I got distracted after entertaining friends of family, I'd go into the kitchen just before bed and be faced with the dreaded stack, and then feel like I wouldn't be able to sleep properly until I'd scrubbed my way through it.

Frankly, I'd willingly pay £9 a month to avoid that.

Thirdly, I felt like I was washing up all the time. Even with a brilliant Scrub Mommy sponge (£7.49 for two at Amazon) in tow, Fairy Skip the Soak Power Spray (3.86, Amazon) at hand and a brand new pair of washing up gloves (£2.85, Amazon) to keep my bubble ick at bay, I very quickly got sick of even more washing up stacking up.

Lastly, the dishwasher was right there. I'd gone to the expense of buying and installing the dishwasher and it seemed like a waste not to use it. And on those nights where there was a mountain of stuff to be tackled and a severe dip in my enthusiasm, I was definitely tempted to use it 'just once'.

While I'd stuck to the challenge I'd set myself, I don't think this is an energy-saving measure I would adopt long-term. Plus, there's the cost of water to consider. When comparing the water cost of running a dishwasher to handwashing, dishwashers actually come out cheaper.

I could actually be more energy efficient when it comes to the setting I use when I do need to run the dishwasher. I've recently realised the cycle I never use could actually be the key to lower energy usage.

However, if the dishwasher was costing significantly more per month to use, then it's highly likely I'd feel differently, and the potential cost saving would massively outweigh the inconvenience of handwashing.

I've been doing my best over the last three years to improve the energy efficiency of my home. But while I've tackled some big jobs like replacing my conservatory roof for something insulated and swapping my old boiler for a newer, more efficient model, I know I'm making some mistakes when it comes to my home decor choices that are not doing me any favours when it comes to my energy bills.

As someone who writes about how to save energy at home for a living, I do my best to share all the changes and habits to adopt to become a person with consistently low energy bills.

But as a homeowner myself, I also understand that embracing some of these tips can require paying for things upfront or making lifestyle changes that can both take time. So I do my best to change what I can when I can, especially if they don't cost anything.

And now it's time to address these decor mistakes that have been making my home feel colder, which means I've been tempted to put the heating on for another hour.

1. I have thin curtains in some rooms

I've opted for blackout curtains, like these from £15 at Dunelm, in the master bedroom and living room, and highly rate their ability to keep my home a comfortable temperature, meaning I am less likely to resort to an extra hour on the heating in winter (especially when I follow Martin Lewis' 4pm rule), or using my air con for longer than necessary in the summer.

However, I haven't got blackout or thermal curtains or blinds in any other room, which feels like a mistake. According to the Department of Energy and Climate Change, around 18% of heat loss occurs through windows. While having any sort of curtain up will help, my thin curtains didn't feel like they were doing much to help over winter and I potentially missed an opportunity to turn my thermostat down a degree and save around £90 a year on my energy bills (according to the Energy Saving Trust). And with summer fast approaching, I know they won't do much to keep the heat out, which means I'll likely have fans or my air con running longer than I perhaps need to.

2. I don't have many rugs

Next up is rugs. While I have a rug in the hallway and one in the living room (that I've actually decided is too small), the fact that I have hard flooring on the entire ground floor of my home, including my home office and kitchen diner, which could be contributing to wasted energy.

According to the Energy Saving Trust, 10-20% of heat is lost through the floor. While I'm fortunately to not be in an old house with suspended timber floors where this heat loss can be most noticeable, the reality is that walking around my home on the hard floor can make me feel cold. And that feeling means I'm all too tempted to turn on my electric heater, or stick the heating on for an extra hour.

To put a price to that, let's say I used an electric heater, like our top rated Morphy Richards HeatFlux Ultra Thin 2kW Ceramic Tower Fan Heater, to boost the heat in my home for an hour every day for the six months between 1 October and 31 March. Based on current energy prices under the April 2026 energy price cap, the cost of running the electric heater would be £89.80.

If I, instead put my central heating (powered by a 24kW boiler) on for an additional hour a day, that would cost about £1.38 per day, and would tot up to £250.72 over the course of the six colder months.

While some homes will need proper floor insulation to solve their cold floor issues, for me, it's much more of a case of either wearing slippers, (I have these £21 slippers from Next that do the job), whenever I'm walking round, or investing in a couple of additional rugs or runners.

3. I leave blinds slightly closed on sunny days

While 2026 has had a very soggy start to the year, the sun is starting to make a regular appearance. And this is definitely an area where I'm missing a trick for lower energy bills.

I've got sensitive eyes, so I regularly tilt my blinds or partially close the curtain in the room I'm in if it's too bright. I also hang things in the windows in a couple of rooms in my home. But that means I could be missing out on one of the major benefits of solar gain — free heat. This again could mean I use my heating or an electric heater for a blast of heat during the day when I potentially don't need to. Even if we only had sunny days for a third of the time between 1 October and 31 March, I could potentially save around £90 by reducing the thermostat by a single degree, up to £250 by not using my central heating for an hour at lunchtime each day.

Instead, I'm going to move into a different room if the sunlight gets a bit too bright and leave the curtains open to benefit from as much solar gain as I can until temperatures are regularly in the high teens. Once temperatures start rising further, I will start strategically closing the curtains at different times of the day to keep my home as cool as possible.

I'm also going to find an alternative spot for my window hangings to maximise the solar gain over the next couple of months.

Thinking about other ways I could reduce energy wastage, I could also follow fellow energy saver Rachel and switch to a smart kettle too.

It's also time I finally tackle a simple task to avoid wasting energy unnecessarily.

Working from home (as I do) comes with a raft of benefits, such as saving money on commuting costs. But it has also meant that I'm using more energy than I would if I were in an office, which means higher energy bills.

So that means I do what I can to save energy at home, and try to make energy savvy choices. And I love making quick 10-minute fixes that can have a real positive impact on my energy usage. One habit I initially hadn’t paid much attention to was how often I was boiling the kettle. My husband and I both work from home and between us we drink around eight to 10 cups of tea and coffee each day - often at different times. This means the kettle is pretty much constantly being boiled throughout the day.

After watching my smart meter turn red every time the kettle was switched on, I decided it was time to invest in a new kettle, a smart one with a keep-warm feature, to see if it would reduce our energy bills in any way. I ended up plumping for the Xiaomi Smart Kettle 2 Pro (£43.99 at Amazon). While it was a bit of an investment, I was hopeful it would save me money in the long run.

Why did I opt for a smart kettle?

The switch to a smart kettle made sense because my husband and I boil the kettle several times a day and we don’t always use it particularly efficiently.

I can fill my smart kettle with water, boil it and then keep the water warm for a few hours, so there’s no worry about using more water than I need or wasting energy.

Plus it’s convenient to simply top up my mug straight away, rather than waiting around for the kettle to boil each time I want a cuppa.

How does the smart kettle help reduce energy usage?

Different to a conventional kettle, smart kettles keep the water it contains at a set temperature, so you don’t need to regularly boil the water from scratch, reducing the amount of energy consumed.

Once the kettle has boiled, you simply select the temperature on the kettle screen or through an app, and the water remains at this temperature for as long as you need it. While the most cost-effective way to use a kettle is to only boil the water you need, with a smart kettle, you could boil a full kettle once, and use less energy to keep it warm (than bring it to the boil).

‘Smart kettles are the next generation of electric kettles, equipped with Wi-Fi or bluetooth connectivity that allows them to be controlled remotely through an app on your phone,’ says Scott Byrom, energy expert at The Energy Shop.

‘Your standard kettle simply boils water to 100ºC every time, whereas a smart kettle introduces precision settings and automation that helps tackle the biggest sources of energy waste in the kitchen.’

With my kettle, the keep-warm temperature can be set between 40ºC and 90ºC, making it ideal for different drinks. According to the UK Tea & Infusions Association, the ideal water temperature for brewing is 90-98ºC for black tea and around 80ºC for green tea.

What difference has it made to my energy bills?

As much as I was hoping for a sizable reduction in my energy bill, the reality is the savings have been a lot smaller. But at a time when energy prices could start to creep back up, even small savings count.

My previous kettle used around 3kW of electricity, and boiling half a kettle of water took around a minute and a half. My current electricity rate is 25.40p per kWh, working out at roughly 1.9p a boil. Using it six times a day would cost about 11.46p.

By contrast, the new smart kettle consumes 1.5kW of electricity, but it takes longer to boil. Half a kettle of water takes around 2.5 minutes to boil, costing about 1.6p a time.

On its own, this doesn’t save much, but the difference comes from the keep-warm function. This uses around 30W of electricity, costing around 0.76p an hour. If I keep the kettle warm for three hours a day, that’s around 2.29p.

Because I am not waiting for it to reboil each time, I tend to boil the kettle only three times a day, rather than six. That brings the total cost to around 7.09p - a saving of around 4.4p a day, £8 for the six months I've been using it or £16 a year compared to my old kettle.

Those savings are potentially boosted by no longer overfilling the kettle and boiling water I won’t use.

‘If your household boils the kettle 10 times a day and habitually overfills by just one cup each time, that wasted energy adds up considerably over a year, reaching up to £40 - £50 annually,’ says Scott.

Was the kettle worth it?

While the savings aren’t huge, there are other benefits to having a smart kettle. For a start, it means I can grab a quick cuppa after the school run without hanging around waiting for the kettle to boil. It’s also useful when we have family over who often ask for hot drinks at different times.

Overall, I don’t regret buying a smart kettle. But whether it’s right for you will depend on your situation. If you work from home and the kettle is always boiling, a smart kettle has its benefits. But if you only boil the kettle a couple of times a day, the savings you could make are unlikely to be worth making the switch.

In other methods of reducing how much gas and electricity I use, I'll make sure I'm not making any energy-wasting decor mistakes that are costing me money without realising it. I could also follow the example Sarah Handley (Ideal Home's Home Energy Editor) and see what happens if I stopped using my dishwasher for a month.

The Government has announced that ‘plug-in’ solar panels could be available in shops within months, as they step up their efforts to help household to cut their energy bills.

The announcement came last week (23rd March) alongside new rules to make solar panels and clean heating standard in new homes. The ''plug-in' solar panels are directed at current homeowners as an affordable alternative to installing solar panels.

Solar panel installation can be a huge expense, with brands such as E.ON Next quoting £4,995 as the starting rate for a small solar system. 'Plug-in' solar panels, in contrast, are easy-to-install alternatives that can be plugged into an ordinary plug and mounted on fences or balconies.

These 'plug-in' solar panels are already widely used in households across Europe. In Germany, they are commonplace, with half a million new devices plugged in per year. They involve no installation cost as they are simply plugged into a household socket, and then the free solar power can be used directly through a mains socket like any other device.

Current UK regulations prohibit this type of solar panel from being plugged into household sockets, but legislative amendments are set to come into force on 27 August 2026. But the government has said it is working with retailers like Lidl and Iceland, alongside manufacturers such as EcoFlow, to change this and make them available to the UK market, soon after.

Georgina Hall, Corporate Affairs Director at Lidl GB, said: 'At Lidl GB, we are committed to making sustainable living affordable for everyone, and we welcome the government’s move to modernise regulations in the UK. Updating the regulatory landscape for this ‘plug-and-play’ technology is a positive step towards empowering British households to manage their energy costs and support the nation’s net-zero ambitions.'

'Cutting red tape on plug-in solar is an encouraging move, and we will help ensure it works alongside, or as part of, whole-home solutions that genuinely empower people to take control of their energy use and cut bills,' Chris Norbury, Chief Executive of E.ON UK, added.

The i Paper has reported that Sainsbury’s, Currys and John Lewis are some of the other companies considering supplying the panels in stores if regulations change. The plug-in panels cost around £400, and the Government estimates a typical UK home could save £70 to £110 a year on their energy bills with one, so they should pay for themselves in about 4 years.

While they are more affordable than the cost of a standard solar panel system, they also produce less energy as they're significantly smaller, so you'll need to carefully consider whether plug-in solar panels or a traditional rooftop installation will better suit your home. The positioning of the panel is also important to ensure it's getting the maximum amount of daylight to work efficiently.

Energy Secretary Ed Miliband said of the new rules implementing the future homes standards building regulations: 'The Iran War has once again shown our drive for clean power is essential for our energy security, so we can escape the grip of fossil fuel markets we don’t control.'

'Whether through solar panels fitted as standard on new homes or making it possible for people to purchase plug-in solar in shops, we are determined to roll out clean power so we can give our country energy sovereignty.'

So if you've been considering solar panels, but couldn't afford the installation, in a few months, a cheaper alternative could be landing in the middle of Lidl. You may also be able to get a solar battery to go with them.

With the looming threat of rising energy prices hanging over our heads, it's the ideal time to cut energy wastage and ensure you are only paying for the energy you actually need.

While it's not yet clear when exactly energy bills will go up, and how much by, acting now means you have the best chance of limiting the impact of any potential increases.

And for the most meaningful and positive impact on your own bills, take inspiration from what those with low energy bills always have.

1. They use smart heating controls

Investing in smart heating controls is a good idea to save energy at home. They'll allow you to control your heating room by room, ensuring you don't waste money by heating rooms that you don't that often to the same extent that you heat the rooms you use most regularly.

'Installing a robust set of controls, including a programmer, a thermostat and thermostatic radiator valves can save up to £110 a year*,' says Martyn Bridges, Director of External Affairs at Worcester Bosch. 'For even more assurance, why not install a smart thermostat? A smart thermostat is connected to an app, turning your phone into a remote control allowing you to manage your home heating from anywhere. You can also control your heating zonally, ensuring you’re paying to only heat the rooms you need to.'

*Figure correct as of July 2025, source: Energy Saving Trust

Beyond your heating controls, smart plugs can help you control all of your appliances from your phone and make sure that they aren't needlessly wasting energy when not in use. This 4-pack of Tapo P100 smart plugs (£27.20 from Amazon) is especially well-reviewed.

2. They have a well-insulated home

When you consider the fact that heating and hot water accounts for a large portion of the monthly energy bill, those with low bills always make sure that their home is capable of maintaining a comfortable temperature. And that comes down to insulation.

'Good insulation keeps warmth in during winter and prevents excess heat in summer, reducing the amount of energy your home needs year-round,' says Simon Bones, the founder and CEO of Genous. 'Topping up loft insulation to recommended depths can make a noticeable difference to both comfort and bills. If you live in a property with older, unfilled cavity walls, professional insulation can significantly improve heat retention and overall efficiency, as long as it’s suitable for your building type and location. Consulting an expert ensures the right materials and methods are used for the best long-term results.'

Addressing pesky draughts around windows, doors and loft hatches will also help to keep heat in during the winters months, and out during the summer months, all without using any gas or electricity.

3. They adopt good habits

For the most impact on energy bills, you will need to make some relatively easy lifestyle changes. And those with low energy bills adopt lots of new daily habits, and stick to them.

'Small habit tweaks around appliances give strong returns with almost no effort,' says Shay Ramani, Founder & Managing Director of Free Price Compare. 'Wash at 30°C, run full loads, and use the eco programme on the dishwasher so the machine heats less water and runs more efficiently. In the kitchen, put lids on pans, size the hob ring to the pan, and use the microwave or an air fryer for small portions, which cuts preheat and wasted heat compared with a full oven.'

Turning off vampire appliances is also a key way to avoid wasting energy. 'Kill standby on TVs, set‑top boxes and games consoles overnight with a master switch or smart power strip so they aren’t sipping power for hours you’re asleep. If you dry clothes indoors, place the rack in a room with some airflow and, if needed, run an extractor briefly to move moisture out so you don’t reach for the tumble dryer.

'These changes take seconds to set up, cost little or nothing, and quietly chip away at daily consumption without affecting comfort.'

Of all the things I'm thinking about when spring comes around, my heating system is not usually one of them. But it turns out this might be a mistake. According to the experts I spoke to, now is actually one of the best times to service your boiler.

If you have looked into how often a boiler should be serviced and were planning on waiting until winter rolls around again to get yours checked over, it might be time to think again.

'If you wait until the middle of winter to call for help, your boiler could break down when you need it the most,' points out Gordon Chalk, MD at Next Level Underfloor Heating and Screed Solutions. 'Waiting until winter can also mean longer wait times for experts and possibly higher emergency call-out fees.'

Why is now a good time to get your boiler serviced?

While the general advice surrounding the best time to service a boiler tends to be to aim for early autumn when you begin to think about turning on your heating system, just before cold weather hits, right now is also perfect – as Michael Zohouri, founder of Pyramid Eco, explains.

'Now is one of the best times to do it. Once we move out of the peak winter season, heating engineers tend to be less stretched,' Michael explains. 'In the middle of winter, most call-outs are emergencies – breakdowns, no heating, no hot water. That means servicing often gets pushed back or booked weeks ahead.

'Getting it done in late winter or early spring means you’re ahead of the rush,' continues Michael. 'You’ve probably been using the boiler heavily, so it’s a good point to check for wear and tear. And you’re not panicking because the house is freezing.'

'Now might feel like an unusual time to think about boiler servicing – there is a common misconception that autumn is the sweet spot for getting your boiler serviced,' picks up Ant Langston, marketing manager at HeatandPlumb.com. 'But it is this final cold stretch when problems often surface.'

Do you have to get your boiler serviced?

Getting your boiler serviced regularly is the best way to ensure your boiler is running efficiently – but is it a legal requirement?

'There is no law in the UK that says homeowners have to have their boiler serviced once a year, but it is highly recommended and, in many cases, to keep your guarantee current, most boiler manufacturers say that you need to have it serviced annually,' explains Gordon Chalk. 'Without yearly maintenance from a trained expert, some problems might not be covered, leaving you with big costs. It's not just about the law and guarantees; it's also about safety and efficiency. This is something we always stress to our clients, because a broken boiler can cause serious problems.'

That said, there are some instances where boiler servicing becomes a legal requirement, as Michael Zohouri points out. 'Legally, if you’re a landlord, an annual Gas Safety Certificate is required.'

What can happen if you put off getting your boiler serviced?

There are a whole host of reasons why having your boiler serviced annually should be at the top of your home maintenance to-do list – particularly if you don't want to be having to replace a boiler any time soon.

'In my experience, small issues turn into expensive ones when boilers aren’t serviced regularly,' warns Michael Zohouri. 'Things like debris build-up, worn seals, or pressure issues are usually picked up during a service. I’ve seen boilers running at lower efficiency simply because they’re clogged internally or not burning fuel cleanly. That means higher gas bills. In worst-case scenarios, poor maintenance can lead to carbon monoxide risks.'

'A boiler that hasn't been serviced can become less effective over time. Parts can get stuck, rust, or wear out, which makes the boiler work harder and use more fuel to heat the same amount of space,' picks up Gordon Chalk. 'This directly leads to higher energy bills, which cancels out any energy-saving benefits of a well-insulated home or a UFH system that works well.'

'Getting an annual boiler service will also ensure you are protected against carbon monoxide poisoning so it is crucial that you book this in each year ahead of time,' adds Ian Palmer-Smith, appliance repair expert at Domestic & General. 'I also strongly advise getting a carbon monoxide detector if you do not have one already. Faulty boiler systems can leak carbon monoxide gas into your home, but without any colour, smell or taste, you need a detector to warn you of its presence to stay safe. They typically last five years before they need to be replaced.'

FAQs

How much does a boiler service cost?

Clearly then, getting an annual boiler service is hugely important, so it makes sense to budget for this ahead of time – but how much is a boiler service?

'Anywhere between £80 and £120 for a standard service, depending on your area and the boiler type,' says Michael Zohouri. 'Some companies offer service plans that spread the cost monthly. Compared to the price of a replacement boiler, it’s a small investment.'

'During a boiler service, engineers will identify any potential issues before they develop into serious problems,' adds Ian Palmer-Smith. 'Spotting a problem early on will help to extend the lifespan of your appliance. A new boiler can cost up to £5,000 including installation so it is well worth servicing annually through boiler cover to prevent you needing to replace prematurely.”

Who should you get to service your boiler?

It is really important that your boiler is serviced by someone with the right qualifications. Not only will they be able to identify signs that your boiler is about to stop working, but is actually illegal for unregistered engineers to carry out the job.

'It must be a Gas Safe Registered engineer. You can check the Gas Safe Register online to confirm credentials,' says Michael Zohouri. 'Ideally, choose someone experienced with your specific boiler brand. A good engineer will check combustion, clean key components, test safety devices, inspect seals and make sure everything is running efficiently. It keeps your boiler reliable and safe. It’s one of those jobs that doesn’t feel urgent until the heating stops working. Better to stay ahead of it.'

'If you buy an oil heater, make sure it is registered with OFTEC,' adds Gordon Chalk. 'Not only is hiring someone who isn't trained dangerous, it's also against the law, and it could mean that your boiler's guarantee and your home insurance are voided.'

There are several things that can go wrong with a boiler, but having yours serviced regularly should mean you never have to deal with them. If your radiators are not heating up, low boiler pressure could be just one reason.

Log burner getting too hot, too cold, not lighting properly? We take a look at the most common stove problems and explain how to fix them

Your log burning stove troubleshooting guide – experts reveal the top 5 problems they come across and how to put them right

There is no denying the character and charm log burning stoves can instantly bring to a room, not to mention how effective they are at heating all kinds of spaces – but that isn't to say there aren't a few log burning stove problems that tend to crop up on a regular basis, no matter how much research you put into choosing the right model for you.

Thankfully these issues are usually simple to resolve once you get to the bottom of why they are occurring – and that's where my troubleshooting guide comes in. I spoke to the experts to find out the most common problems they encounter with log burning stoves, why they happen and what to do about them.

From smoke escaping into the room to a fire that won't light properly, don't let these niggles ruin your enjoyment of your log burner – this expert-approved advice will put them right fast.

1. Smoke that won't go up the chimney

Noticed an accumulation of smoke building up inside your stove? According to Jon Butterworth, director at Arada, this happens all too often.

'One of the main problems people experience is smoke not drawing properly up the chimney. In almost every case, this comes down to the flue system rather than the stove,' explains Jon. 'Making sure your appliance is installed by a qualified professional, with the correct flue size and adequate room ventilation, will ensure it performs efficiently from day one.'

Another cause can be a blockage or build up of soot inside your flue or chimney.

'Routine care makes all the difference,' advises Jon. 'An annual chimney sweep and occasional check of seals and internal components will keep your stove safe, efficient and ready to enjoy for years to come.'

2. The fire keeps going out

Lighting a log burner is usually not too difficult providing you arm yourself with the right materials and tools – kindling, the right firewood and, if you choose, firelighter. You should also leave the vents open for maximum airflow and then ensure the door is a little ajar while it gets going. However, whether you favour the traditional way of lighting a fire or prefer the 'top-down' method, in some cases the usual methods just won't work. There is a common reason for this – you're using the wrong wood for your log burner.

'A frequent issue is difficulty lighting or keeping the fire going,' reveals Jon Butterworth. 'This is usually caused by burning wood that isn’t properly seasoned. Always use kiln-dried or well-seasoned logs with a moisture content below 20%.'

Joanna Humphreys, fire and stove specialist at Direct Stoves agrees. 'You should only burn kiln-dried or well-seasoned wood with less than 20% moisture content. Both hardwood and softwood will work well if the moisture content is low enough,' says Joanna. 'If you are unsure of the moisture content, or if you are drying your own wood, you can use a moisture meter to check. We always recommend avoiding woods with a high sap content as they do not burn well.'

3. The glass keeps turning black quickly

After several uses, the glass in the doors of your log burner is bound to start to look a little dirty and, over time, may form a black film. While cleaning log burner glass is easy to do if you keep on top of it, stove doors that get dirty quickly are a pain – plus they obscure the view of those lovely flickering flames. This problem could all be down to the way you are using your stove.

'If the glass becomes blackened quickly, it’s often a sign the stove is being run too cool,' explains Jon Butterworth. However, there is another reason this can happen too and, yet again, it comes down to the wood you are burning.

'Burning dry, well-seasoned logs with the right moisture content and allowing the stove to reach its ideal temperature will keep the glass clearer and the burn cleaner,' says Jon.

4. The room it's in is getting too hot

One of the things I wish I'd known before installing my log burner, which sits in the heart of my open plan kitchen, dining room and snug, is just how hot it would get. While its heat can be very welcome on a cold winter's day, when sitting in the dining area, things can get a little too toasty.

If you are finding that your log burner is producing too much heat for the space it is located in, the most likely cause is that its heat output is too high for the size of your room.

Ideally you would have had sound advice from a HETAS Registered Installer but if you didn't or you bought your house with the stove already in place, there are a few steps you can take to ease the issue. Try leaving doors from the room it is in open so that the heat can disperse throughout the house, or consider investing in a stove fan which does a similar thing.

Shop stove fans

5. Your log burner is not giving out enough heat

There are two potential reasons why your stove might not be giving out enough heat. The first lies in its heat output – it could be undersized for the space it is being used in. However, if you are confident that you specified the right size log burner for your home, your firewood could be to blame.

'Wet wood creates more smoke, less heat and more build-up inside the stove,' explains Jon Butterworth.

'Hardwoods tend to burn hotter and longer, whereas softwoods, although they burn hot, tend to burn out slightly faster,' adds Joanna Humphreys. 'When shopping for wood, look for the Woodsure Ready To Burn logo. This will offer peace of mind that the wood you’re purchasing is ready to burn safely in your log burner.'

FAQs

Can I still have a log burner without a chimney?

The good news here is that even if your home doesn't have a chimney, you can still install a log burning stove in order to realise your log burner ideas.

'Not every home comes with a pre-existing chimney, but that shouldn't get in the way of your plans. Many modern solutions allow for wood-burning stove installation in spaces without traditional chimneys,' says Joanna Humphreys. 'A twin-wall flue system is the preferred solution for installing a wood-burning stove in a home without a chimney. Essentially, this system acts as an artificial chimney, providing a safe exit for the smoke and fumes. Twin-wall flues typically consist of two concentric metal tubes with insulation between them. They can run either through the home or externally along the outside.

'When deciding on the flue route, there are two options: an internal or an external system,' continues Joanna. 'An internal system runs through the home, typically via a room or loft, and exits through the roof. It’s slightly more efficient for heat retention but requires more internal work.

'With an external system, the flue runs outside the building, which typically makes installation easier and causes less disruption to the home interior,' adds Joanna. 'Another option is to build a faux chimney; it can enhance the aesthetic appeal of your wood-burning stove by creating a characterful setting, ideal for rooms without an original chimney structure. Not only does it create a focal point, but it can be used to cleverly hide the flue system.'

One of the most important things to do before installing a wood burning stove is to ensure you understand the log burner building regulations. These are there not only to ensure that installation is carried out safely, but also mean that your stove should operate at peak performance.

As the weather is becoming more mild, but still not particularly warm, turning the heating on for the whole house while I work from home is a waste.

So now is the ideal time for me to test out the Daewoo 2500W Oil Filled Heater with LED Display & Remote Control to see how it heats a room, what it costs to do so and how it compares to the best oil-filled radiators.

In a nutshell

I had previously only used an electric fan heater to generate an extra bit of heat when needed, so I was intrigued to try out an oil-filled radiator that works in quite a different way. While electric heaters tend to heat up quickly and cool down as soon as they turn off, oil-filled radiators take longer to heat up, but can continue giving out heat long after they are switched off.

I definitely had to be patient to wait for the Daewoo radiator to heat up, rather than using it for an instant burst of heat, but I was impressed that it was still giving out heat for a good couple of hours after I had turned it off.

It did struggle to heat my large open plan living room, so I think this would be better suited to medium-sized rooms around 25m2.

Specification

• Type of heater: Oil-filled radiator
• RRP: £89.99
• Weight: 9.2kg
• Dimensions (W x H x D): 45.5 x 59.5 x 24cm
• Wattage: 2500W
• Running costs per hour (based on January 2026 energy price cap): 55p
• Room size suitability: 25-35m2
• Smart features: None
• Dual functionality: None
• Oscillation: None

Unboxing, setting up and first impressions

The Daewoo oil-filled radiator arrived in a protective delivery cardboard box and then the branded packaging box. The radiator itself weighs less than 10kg, so it was simple enough to move into position.

Getting the radiator out of the box was a bit tricky thanks to the double cardboard, so I found it best to lie the box flat, cut the tape on one end and slide the radiator out, rather than trying to lift it out by the top. I loved that the packaging was almost entirely recyclable, with the plug, casters and wheel plates in cardboard boxes and the radiator itself secured by moulded cardboard ends. Even the protective bag for the radiator was made out of recycled materials and is able to be recycled with soft plastics at a supermarket.

Before turning it on, I had to attach the caster wheels which didn’t take long, but it meant turning the radiator upside down and while I was able to do this myself, some might find it difficult without a second pair of hands. I did also feel a bit uneasy when I could hear the oil trickle down! But fortunately the oil is fully contained so there's no chance of it escaping.

The instructions advise to use a spanner to tighten the domed nuts, (although this isn't supplied), but the rest can be done by hand. Once assembled, I turned the radiator right side up and found the manoeuvrability of the castors was slightly sticky. The radiator definitely prefers to move directly forward with side or diagonal movements resisted by the castors. They loosened up after a couple of journeys ferrying between rooms, but I'm glad that my bedroom and living room are on the same level, otherwise this would have been a bit tricky.

After plugging in, you have to use the red switch on the side to give the radiator power and then also press the power button on the touch LED display. It also comes with a remote that I found easy to use (although I had to hunt around for some AAA batteries as they weren't included).

The radiator automatically starts at 35ºC on comfort (full power) mode, but the temperature can be decreased using the touch screen or remote. Tapping the cog/settings icon will toggle through comfort, eco and anti-frost modes. A nice feature is the light dimmer, which you can have on full, slightly dimmed or off.

I like that the radiator has a useful timer function to turn it on and off — don't do what I did though and cycle through them too quickly. If you press the timer by accident, which I did, you have to cycle through 24 hours to cancel it.

What’s it like to use?

It's important to understand the differences between oil-filled radiators and electric heaters, with one main point of difference that oil-filled radiators are known for heating up slowly (more slowly than electric heaters), but holding on to their heat for longer once switched off. And I definitely found that to be true for this Daewoo model.

First up, I tried it in our open plan living room (which is admittedly a pretty large space — approximately 38m2) but I think this was a little too large for this oil-filled radiator (which states it's suitable for large rooms up to 35m2) to handle. The room started at 16.9ºC and two hours later it just about hit 17.9ºC. That just goes to show how important it is to use the right size heater for the space you want to heat.

Next, I tried it in my much more suitably-sized 17m2 bedroom with better results. The 14.3ºC room heated to 17.5ºC within an hour.

I can also attest to the fact that the radiator holds on to the head long after being turned off. I went to move it about 15 minutes after I had turned it off, and it was still giving off heat. In fact it was giving off residual heat for a good two hours after it has been turned off. While this free heat is definitely a plus, it did mean it was a little difficult to move from where I'd had it placed centrally in the room as the handle was hot to the touch for a long time after turning it off.

I also liked that the noise levels were pleasingly low at just 28dB, even when the radiator was on its highest setting. I definitely prefer this to fan heaters that can give off a significant whirring sound that I find a bit distracting.

Running costs

This Daewoo radiator has a wattage of 2500W, which means that per hour, it costs 55p on comfort mode based on the January 2026 energy price cap of 27.96p/kWh.

Eco mode drops the use down to 1000W so will continue to keep the radiator warm at a steady temperature. This mode will cost just under 28p an hour to use.

At the time of writing, oil prices are surging due to ongoing world events and burning oil at 137p/litre (compared with 62p/litre 12 days prior) for our oil boiler heating seems like madness. So I’m happy I have this little heater to keep warm instead of putting the central heating on.

Cleaning and maintenance

A little dust is all this oil-filled radiator needed to stay in working order. Before cleaning, I made sure the radiator was completely cool and unplugged from the mains power. The instruction guide warns against use of any abrasive cleaners and to simply wipe down with a damp cloth.

I would suggest a microfibre cloth in order to get between the fins for a thorough clean, or a microfibre or feather duster for removing dust.

Who should buy this oil-filled heater?

The Daewoo 2.5kW oil-filled radiator is best suited to rooms you are going to inhabit all day, so I think it would be ideal in a home office or small living room where you can have it nearby to feel the benefits of the warmth, even when it's turned off.

Depending on how small the room is that you want to heat, you may get away with a lower powered model, like the De'Longhi TRNS0505M 500W Oil Filled Radiator, and benefit from lower running costs.

However, if you are after a quicker burst of heat, then you may be better off with an electric heater, such as the Morphy Richards HeatFlux Ultra Thin 2kW ceramic tower fan heater, that heats up much faster than an oil-filled radiator. Although the pay off for a quick heat up time is that it doesn't retain heat for long after it's been switched off.

There are certain times of year when having the central heating on all day is not really necessary (not to mention expensive) but things haven't quite warmed up enough yet to mean you want no heating at all. This is where the best oil-filled radiators really come into their own – a convenient way of keeping warm without sending electricity bills soaring.

I was still of the opinion that oil-filled radiators were somewhat old-fashioned if I'm totally honest – clumsy in their design and slow to heat up. How wrong I was – the ProBreeze OmniWarm 2500W Oil Filled 11 Fins Eco Radiator has totally changed my opinion. Here's why.

In a nutshell

With an RRP of £109.99 and various power settings that mean you can keep running costs down, this contemporary-looking oil-filled radiator is a very smart investment.

While you might not get that instant hot blast that fan heaters offer, this radiator gets up to temperature in minutes and will start distributing its heat nice and evenly throughout the room much faster than you might imagine.

The smart features are a really handy extra that give you an added level of control and don't require any tech wizardry to get to grips with.

Specification

• Type of heater: Oil-filled radiator
• RRP: £109.99
• Weight: 10.4 kg
• Dimensions: (W x H x D): (44.2 x 61.8 x 28cm)
• Wattage: 2500W
• Running costs per hour: 27.69p - 69.22p
• Room size suitability: Unspecified
• Smart features? Yes. WiFi control via smart app
• Dual functionality? No
• Oscillation? No

Unboxing, setting up and first impressions

The heater came well boxed with only the minimum packaging used to keep it from being damaged in transit. Not all the packaging was recyclable which was a shame. However, on the upside, I had expected it to be far heavier to carry into the house than it was.

In total there were just three main components included – the radiator itself and the two sets of castors, as well as the fixings to attach them. The radiator also comes with a neat little remote, already fitted with its batteries.

The castors were super simple to attach using the wing nuts they came with – no tools necessary. Other than that, the radiator comes ready to plug in and go and, thanks to the concise and easy-to-read instruction manual, I had mine up and running with no dramas.

I had wondered whether smart electric heaters were worth it and given that this was my first time using one (or any kind of smart appliance for that matter!) I was a little worried that setting it all up would be complicated but I was pleasantly surprise. All I needed to do was scan the QR code in the manual to download the ProBreeze app – which then took me through around three simple steps to get connected to my WiFI – et voila, we were good to go. From the app I can control the temperature, turn it on and off and use the timer settings.

Quick word of note, I had a small panic when I checked the app at one point and was told it couldn't connect to the heater. Initially I thought something had gone wrong but then realised this was because the heater had been switched off at the wall rather than being left in standby mode meaning I needed to reconnect.

When you first turn the heater on there is a bit of of a light gurgling and trickling sound as it gets up to temperature – which only seemed to take a minute or two. After that, it is silent to run, unlike some of the other best electric heaters I have tested.

Appearance wise, this is nothing like the bulky old-fashioned oil-filled radiators you'd see in the past. Despite its impressive heat output, this is pleasingly slimline with a far more modern appearance – you definitely wouldn't notice its presence if you located it in a discreet position within your room, although it is recommended that you leave at least 50cm clearance space on all sides.

What’s it like to use?

In short, this is one of the easiest heaters I have used. It has a switch on the side to turn it on at which point the standby and timer buttons light up. To begin using it to heat the room you just press the standby button, using either the panel on the unit or the remote control (or with the app on your phone if you are using it).

It has four modes – ECO, High, Medium and Low. Once you set the temperature the heater operates automatically in ECO mode where it continuously adjusts to keep this temperature stable. Usefully, you can also see the room's ambient temperature if needed.

I found the ECO setting to be perfect – even on a pretty chilly day. It quickly took the edge off the cold in my open plan space and, unlike a fan heater, managed to give out a much broader type of heat that seemed to spread out throughout the area rather than spot heat. I also noticed that even after it was turned off it stayed warm for around 30 minutes, although I imagine this would depend on the temperature you had it set at.

Unlike a fan heater I would feel more confident using the timer on this one, for example setting it to come on a little while before everyone gets up in the morning as a way of heating the house without turning the central hearting on to warm things up a bit or before I am due to get home to avoid walking into the freezing entrance hall (the radiator in here is stubbornly unreliable and using the heater here made the world of difference.)

I am also loving the fact that as we enter that time of year when it is hard to know when to turn the central heating off, this can be used to bridge the gap, allowing you navigate the UK's unreliable spring temperatures easily.

Like I said, the heater is not overly heavy, but the castors it sits on and comfortable handle make it even easier to wheel around the house as much as you want.

One downside – and something I have found with a few heaters I have tested – is that the cable length is not quite as long as I would like. It is 150cm and in my open plan space I would quite like to have been able to position it a little more centrally than was possible. That said, had we bit a little more generous with the number of electrical sockets here it might not have been a problem.

One more thing worth noting, when the heater is switched off, either at the wall or using the power switch, it loses connection to the app. This isn't too problematic – you simply need to reconnect it to the WiFi by holding down the timer button for five seconds.

And finally, if you have young children around, you need to be aware that the metal fins do get quite hot to the touch, as you might imagine – take care with this.

How much does it cost to run?

Using the January 2026 energy price cap figure for electricity, which is 27.69p per kWh, this 2500W heater would cost just under £0.70 per hour to run. In all honestly I expected it to be a bit cheaper.

That said, when those figures drop in April, to 24.67 pence per kWh, the heater's running costs will also come down – to around £0.62 per hour. Also, these calculations are based on using it at full pelt. If you were to run it on its Low setting which is a constant 1000W, it would only cost you 24.67 pence per hour. Given that we are now coming out of winter, that might be all you need.

It is also worth noting, particularly if you are looking to save energy, that even when it has been turned off, the heater continues to give off a little free heat – unlike some of the electric fan heaters out there.

Cleaning and maintenance

As a pristine white heater (black is also available) this is going to readily show up dust and, when my dog came in from a walk and decided to shake nearby it did get splattered with muddy water.

However, cleaning was easy with a soft damp cloth – just make sure you've turned the heater off and let it cool completely before doing this.

Obviously the fins make getting rid of dust a little tricker than it would be with a flat panel heater, but the slimline nozzle attachment on my vacuum took care of this and a manual radiator brush would act in a similar way.

What do other online reviews say?

In general, reviews for the OmniWarm 2500W Oil Filled 11 Fins Eco Radiator Heater are really positive, with users praising its simple set-up and ease-of-use.

A few reviewers online mentioned that they felt the thermostat under-read room temperature, suggesting you might need to adjust it accordingly to avoid it working harder than necessary. Others found WiFi connectivity to be a little unreliable.

Who should buy this electric heater?

This is perfect for all kinds of uses. It would be great for getting an unheated space, such as a garage, workshop, or freezing cold entrance hall like mine, nice and warm quickly.

It is also perfect for those looking for a way to get their home feeling a little warmer on a chilly spring or early-autumn morning when the central heating might not be in use but you need a blast of heat.

Like I said, those with young children should take care with the hot surface if you have the temperature set particularly high, although it does have a child-lock setting.

Conflict in the Middle East has seen disruption to global fuel supplies, which in turn, has caused wholesale energy prices to spike.

There's been a lot of volatility in the energy market over the last few years, with households facing high energy bills as a result, so it's not surprising that current tensions are causing worry around how to save energy at home and how to afford energy bills.

To help ease any anxiety you might be feeling, I've spoken to the experts and broken down when price increases may hit households, how you can minimise the impact and what you should do if you are worried you won't be able to afford your bill.

When are energy prices going up?

While wholesale energy prices have shot up, it will be a while before that increase hits our energy bills. And that is due to the energy price cap.

The energy price cap is represented as an annual figure for the average household based on typical energy use, but it effectively caps the amount you pay per unit of gas and electricity you use during a certain period. The price cap is adjusted every three months to reflect a multitude of factors, including wholesale energy prices.

The current cap is in place until the end of March, and the cap for the period from 1 April until 31 June has been confirmed, and the good news is, it's lower than the current price cap.

However, the energy price cap for the period from 1 July until 30 September (and beyond) has yet to be confirmed, and it's at this point that households could see their energy bills go up as a result of Middle East tensions. Latest predictions suggest an increase on the April 2026 cap of 10-20% for the July 2026 price cap.

The July 2026 price cap is due to be announced by Ofgem on 27 May 2026, and until that time, there is a chance that tensions may ease and prices stabilise.

'We are already seeing volatility in global energy prices following the escalation involving Iran, which increases the risk of higher household bills later in the year,' explains Angus Struthers, Managing Director at home heating and cooling company BOXT.

'For most households, the impact will not be immediate, as UK energy bills are set by Ofgem’s price cap, which adjusts every three months. The current cap for April to June is already fixed, so if wholesale prices stay high the earliest most households would feel it is from July, when analysts say bills could rise again. However, those on variable tariffs who are looking to fix may already be seeing this reflected in the quotes they are being offered by suppliers.'

What can you do now if you are worried about your energy bills?

Usually, if you want to reduce your energy bills there are two pretty straightforward options:

1. Try to switch to a cheaper energy tariff

If you are already on a fixed price tariff, you will be protected from any changes to the price cap. But once your fixed period ends, you will likely be moved on to your suppliers variable rate tariff, which will fluctuate.

Alternatively, you could look for another fixed price tariff. However, when wholesale energy prices show lots of volatility, energy suppliers may remove their fixed price tariffs from the market in order to reprice them.

'In terms of switching, the current volatility means suppliers may adjust or withdraw fixed‑rate deals and we’ve already seen some tariffs come off the market as providers respond to wholesale movements,' explains Gareth Kloet, spokesperson for Go.Compare energy. 'That’s why it’s important for households to keep checking the whole market regularly. Good‑value fixes do appear, but they may only be available for a short time. For anyone on a standard variable tariff or approaching the end of a fixed deal, reviewing options now could offer welcome price stability ahead of the summer.'

'If you’re not already on a fixed tariff and want certainty about your energy bills, you may still want to consider locking in reasonable rates for a year or more to avoid volatility caused by global events,' adds Ben Gallizzi, energy comparison expert at Uswitch.com.

'It’s important households do not feel pressured into taking just any fixed tariff. They should assess their options by running a quick comparison using their postcode to see tailored options available to their personal energy usage.'

2. Try to reduce how much energy you use at home

Taking steps to reduce your energy consumption at home is what those with low energy bills do consistently.

There are lots of ways to save energy at home, from unplugging vampire appliances to avoiding using energy-hungry tumble dryers and turning your thermostat down a bit. But for the biggest impact on your bills, a combination of multiple methods is needed.

Here are the short term options to try that will have the biggest impact on reducing how much energy you use, and therefore lowering your energy bills.

• Dry clothes outdoors if you can
• Use eco mode on your dishwasher and washing machine, and only run them when you have a full load
• Stop leaving your devices on stand-by or on charge when the battery is full
• Take shorter showers
• Get your boiler serviced. If you do this now, when the weather is warming up, future you will be grateful come autumn
• Don't leave lights on in rooms you aren't in
• Use an air fryer over your oven
• Use blankets or an extra layer of clothes rather than nudging your thermostat up.

For longer term reduction in your energy usage:

• Invest in smart heating controls
• Check your home's insulation
• Address any draughts that are allowing heat to escape from your home in winter

What to do if you're worried you can't afford your energy bill?

If you've tried reducing your energy consumption and you are still concerned that you won't be able to afford your energy bills, then it's definitely worth getting in touch with your energy supplier. You should be able to find their contact details on your latest bill or online.

Not only may that be able to help guide you to a cheaper tariff that may better suit your needs, but they may also help arrange a payment plan, offer you emergency credit (if you have a pre-payment meter), or help arrange a hardship fund grant.

Read our guide for more energy bill help.

After a very wet start to 2026, welcome milder temperatures are coming around. But with mornings and evenings still chilly, where does that leave you when it comes to your heating, and how long should you have it on in spring?

While it may not quite be warm enough to go without it entirely, the likelihood is now that you don't need your heating on for as many hours as you would in winter.

To help determine how long that should be, and when you might be able to turn your heating off for the summer season, I roped in a couple of heating experts to share their expertise.

How many hours a day should your heating be on in spring?

There's not actually a set number of hours that your heating should be on in spring, especially as there's lots of factors that can influence how warm your home feels.

Beyond the changeable weather than we can still get in the UK at this time of year, from high teens one minute, to single figures the next, the orientation of your home, and how well insulated it is will all play a part in how long your heating should be on for this season.

'It is difficult to give an exact number as there are so many factors to consider,' says Martyn Bridges from Worcester Bosch. 'Everything from whether the house is properly insulated to whether it has a south-facing conservatory. Each will inform the home temperature.'

At this time of year, south facing rooms will feel warmer on sunny days as they benefit from solar gain. If the rooms you spend most time in during the day face south, and have large windows, then you might find that you don't need your heating on much at all.

However, for rooms facing north, they might still feel chilly so you might still need a boost from your heating to keep things comfortable.

What's a good example spring heating schedule?

As we head into spring time, temperatures tend to still be low first thing in the morning and when the sun goes down, but are relatively mild during the middle of the day. And so typically a schedule like the below could work for the average home:

• First thing in the morning. Overnight temperatures are still quite low this time of year, so scheduling your heating to come on for an hour or so as you get up is still a wise idea.
• Off during the day. If you are home during the day, then one of the best oil-filled radiators or electric heaters may be all you need for the occasional burst of heat when and where you need it.
• Early evening. Right now in the UK, the sun is setting at around 6pm, which is when we tend to feel temperatures dropping. To ward off the chill, it's worth scheduling your heating to come on for a couple of hours in the evening to keep things comfortable.

'You can run the heating 60 to 90 minutes before you wake up, then again for 1-2 hours after sunset, with little or no daytime running if the house is holding heat,' says Matthew Powell, Founder of WarmZilla. 'Keeping the main thermostat around 18 to 19°C with a night setback of 16 to 17°C usually balances comfort, home energy use, and the cost of living, without letting the building get so cold that the risk of dampness increases.'

'Many households run space heating for about 2 to 4 hours a day in March and April, then taper to roughly 1 to 2 hours a day by late May if the weather stays mild. Those hours are often split into two windows, one around getting up and one later in the evening, rather than a continuous daytime run. The exact figure swings with insulation, draughts, and how quickly radiators warm up, so a well set-up system can feel comfortable on fewer hours than an older or poorly balanced one.'

But while this is a good example to follow, there's no hard and fast rule. 'Don’t feel afraid to turn down or turn off the heating if the weather is nice outside,' adds Martyn. 'All you have to do is turn it back on!'

How should homeowners adapt their home heating for spring?

With the weather still changeable, it's worth understanding how best to adapt your heating system to ensure a comfortable home environment all day long.

'If you have modern up-to-date controls, then they will do all of that task for you,' explains Martyn. 'They can detect the temperature of both the weather and the indoor air temperature and either turn the heating down to its lowest rate or even turn the boiler off.'

However if don't have modern controls, then a little more input is needed. 'With older controls, such as mechanical room thermostats and time clocks, then you need to make the adjustments yourself,' explains Martyn.

'Turning the heating on in the morning for an hour can bring the house up to a comfortable 21 centigrade, but for spring that can be reduced to thirty minutes. Similarly, you can switch it on later and later at night as the days continue to get longer.

'It's ultimately trial-and-error depending on the weather outside. The best bet is to invest in modern day controls, as the job is done for you.' This can be an ideal one-time way to save energy.

If you do want to update your controls, consider the options below.

When do people tend to turn their heating off for summer?

While the answer to when people turn their heating off for the summer season will entirely depend on the weather, many people tend to time it when the clocks go forward, which this year happens on Sunday 29 March.

But it's worth keeping an eye on the weather and look for steady warmer temperatures before you put your heating in summer mode. Matthew recommends keeping watch for consistent overnight temperatures of 8°C and above, and checking whether your home can hold at 18°C by early evening. An inexpensive room thermometer like this one from Amazon (£6.29) can help you decide when it's mild enough to do without your radiators.

This year, the kind of tariff you are on may also play into your decision of when you turn the heating off, especially if you are on a variable tariff, as Martyn explains: 'Given the recent conflict between US and Iran, gas prices are skyrocketing, so if not on a fixed tariff any minute you can turn your heating off the better.'

Once you are less reliant on your radiators to keep warm at home, it's a good idea to get your system serviced. 'This is also a sensible window to book maintenance, because spring and summer are quieter for boiler installation and servicing, and small fixes now can reduce run-time and bills next season,' says Matthew. 'A brief test run every few weeks keeps pumps and valves moving, which helps avoid avoidable call-outs later.'

When we bought our strange renovation project (a 1700s stone cottage with a dated 1970s extension) we had firm energy-efficiency goals that we wanted to achieve.

The first port of call was insulating the walls, solving the damp issues and to make the home less wasteful. The second was to replace our 30-year-old oil boiler with a renewable solution. And the third was to install solar panels on our flat roof to further reduce our energy bills.

I’ve written about solar panels for almost a decade now, so I’m fairly well versed in their benefits, costs and installation requirements, which is why my partner and I were so keen on them for our home. Being in a Conservation Area, I knew we'd need planning permission for solar panels, which I'd assumed would be relatively straightforward. However, when I spoke with the architect organising the technical drawings for our house and our structural engineer they both suggested we wait a few years for pretty common reasons.

Why did we want solar panels in the first place?

The 70s extension section of our house has a flat roof that faces north west, and with the help of some ballast boxes positioned correctly, we hoped we could pick up the light needed for solar panels to collect energy almost all day. From a planning consent point of view, it also helps that the flat roof is at the back of the house so the panels would be mostly hidden from street view.

This is our second renovation project and one that we are able to stay in long-term so investing in infrastructure such as solar panels, insulation and renewable heating seemed like a no-brainer to me. Solar panels would reduce our bills over the course of the years we reside here, eventually breaking even in around 8/9 years, depending on their cost.

However, when we were drawing up our planning permission technical drawing with our architect, he suggested that it may be better to put in a separate application for the solar panels, independent of the one for the new windows, render and driveway we were seeking permission for. Speaking shortly after with our structure engineer, they also suggested waiting a few years before looking to install the panels would be best, but for entirely different reasons to the architect.

What were the potential issues with installing solar panels from the architect’s perspective?

Firstly, our architect’s concerns were for our planning permission application. In Conservation Areas many remedial works that usually fall under Permitted Development in other areas need approval from the local planning department. Unfortunately, this meant a lot of our external renovations were tied into the planning process.

I had assumed that getting planning permission for solar panels would be as simple as adding them to the proposed plans for the other work, but our architect commented that adding too much to the proposal meant that there might be a higher risk of getting a refusal from the council, with all of the proposed changes being rejected as a result. And that's definitely not what we wanted.

His solution was to apply a ‘first batch’ with the things that needed remedying sooner rather than later and, after a few years, apply separately for the solar panels alone.

‘In most standard properties, solar falls under permitted development,’ begins Martyn Fowler, founder of Elite Renewables. ‘In Conservation Areas and especially with Listed Buildings, things become more sensitive. Visibility from the street, impact on the character of the building and the type of mounting system all come into play. Sometimes it makes sense to separate applications if you're planning a larger renovation project so one element does not jeopardise the other. That said, every local authority interprets guidance slightly differently.’

‘In conservation areas and for listed buildings, the local authority has a statutory duty to give special regard to preserving the building and its setting, or the character and appearance of the wider area,’ agrees Cerys Atchinson, Chartered Town Planner at Planning By Design. ‘This means even relatively minor additions can receive closer scrutiny than they would elsewhere.’

Very few properties in our village have solar panels, so we weren’t overly optimistic if we did take the gamble of adding them to our planning application, and looking back at the nearly seven month process of simply agreeing on the style of replacement windows, we decided not to further complicate matters.

What were the problems from a structural engineering view?

Another spanner in our building works came from our structural engineer when we casually discussed that we would like to invest in solar panels on our flat roof. After inspection, he concluded that the current material covering the roof would be in need of replacement in the next few years. That meant that installing solar panels on the decaying roof fabric would be completely nonsensical, but it’s an issue that often trips people like us up.

‘You need to look at the condition of the roof. If the covering is near the end of its lifespan it will need to be replaced first,’ says Martyn Fowler. ‘There is no point installing solar on a roof that will need redoing in a few years.’

Logically too, if we waited until our covering if due a replacement, we could also diagnose if the roof structure is in need of reinforcements. As we have a flat roof, we could use a mounting system or ballast boxes to position the solar panels to an optimal position, but they naturally increase the weight of the panels and therefore additional support would be needed.

‘When considering the installation of solar panels, it is important to assess the suitability of the roof structure,’ explains Ezgi Cebi, Architectural Designer at Planning by Design. ‘If a significant number of solar panels are to be installed, or if there is any concern that the existing roof structure may be old or insufficient to support the additional load, it is advisable to consult a structural engineer.’

‘Where the roof is flat, panels are usually mounted on angled support frames to achieve an appropriate orientation toward the sun,’ she continues. ‘There are proprietary mounting systems available that allow the inclination to be optimised.’

With so many other elements to our renovation, and a budget to manage, replacing what is currently a functioning roof seemed silly, so we followed the engineer’s advice and have decided to wait a few years. Plus, replacing the roof covering will add around £6,000 to our solar panel costs, so we need time to address more urgent issues before we prioritise these funds for solar panels.

So, where does that leave us?

Unfortunately, we’re no further forward with our solar panel goals than we were when we first moved in, but that’s fine with the amount of surprise costs we have uncovered through the rest of the renovation!

The rest of our plans are underway to make the house more efficient and future-proofed, so although we’re not looking at any short-term solution at the moment, we’re still holding out hope that we will be able to power our home without the use of fossil fuels one day.

I had also hoped to add a heat pump to my home, but sadly that wasn't a viable option so I was looking into alternatives instead.

As someone who writes about all aspects of home energy for a living, I do try to practice what I preach.

This is especially true when it comes to saving energy at home. But one place I struggle with this is not using my tumble dryer. While I do embrace methods to use my tumble dryer in the most cost-efficient way, I've always struggled to go without it during the winter.

So I set myself a challenge of going without using the tumble dryer for the whole of February to both see how I got on with other (less-expensive) clothes drying methods, and to see how much money I was potentially wasting by forgoing those other methods in favour of my tumble dryer. But while I managed to save a bit of money, I did have to sacrifice how my house looked.

How much money did I save by not using my tumble dryer?

I have an energy efficient A++ 7kg Beko tumble dryer, which I tend to use on average three times a week in winter, for bed linen, towels and thicker items of clothing, like jumpers, sweatshirts and jeans.

I'd say it's a pretty safe assumption that I would have used it 12-14 times in February if I factor in washing my dog's blankets too.

For a full-load on the standard setting, which lasts 174 minutes, my tumble dryer uses around 1.68kWh of electricity. But as I sometimes use a non-standard and more energy intensive setting, or find myself putting it on the standard setting for an extra 30 minutes to get the result I want, I'd say it's probably closer to 2kWh each time I use it. (As the actual wattage can depend on the load, moisture and ambient temperature, this is the closest I can get to accurate).

That means that each time I use it, my tumble dryer's running costs are just under 56p based on the January 2026 energy price cap. If I'd used it 14 times in February, it would have cost me £7.75. Not quite the mammoth saving I was expecting.

But this is where the efficiency of your tumble dryer matters. Had I got a similar 7kg Beko tumble dryer that was C-rated (so less energy efficient) rather than A++ rated, the standard cycle would use 4.2kWh, which would cost just over £1.16 each time I used it, and £16.28 over the course of 14 February loads.

Was the saving worth it?

While the idea of avoiding both energy and money waste is always appealing, in this case, there's one main reason the £7.75 saving isn't really worth it. And that reason is finding somewhere else to effectively dry these bulky and or large items.

I use a bog-standard airer to dry lighter items like underwear, socks and t-shirts, which dry quite quickly, especially when the central heating comes on, so I don't feel like they are too much of a hassle to dry.

But I have a king size bed, so the bed linen is sizable, and towels seem to take ages to dry, so it feels like there is constantly laundry on display wherever I look around my home, which I hate. I actually found myself feeling a bit stressed about it, which is definitely not the vibe I want from my home.

There's also something about the softness of towels out of the tumble dryer that I'm not sure I'm prepared to give up in winter.

However, I realise that I feel that way because of the relatively low running costs of my tumble dryer. If I had a lower energy-rated tumble dryer and was doing more laundry loads each week, I'd definitely be more likely to try alternative ways to dry things like bedding indoors in winter.

Fortunately, we're creeping ever closer to spring and summer, which means I'll definitely be giving my tumble dryer a break and drying my laundry outside. Bring on the days when it dries in about 45 minutes!

Next up, I'm challenging myself to go without my dishwasher for a month. Wish me luck!

To help reduce my energy usage further, I've rectified the energy-wasting decor mistakes I was making and am considering switching to a smart kettle.

I've also decided it's time to stop putting off this simple task that help reduce wasted energy even further.

Now that may parts of the UK are seeing temperatures creep into double figures, your home's energy efficiency may not be as high a priority as it was in the middle of winter.

However, if you do want to save energy at home, the most significant savings are achieved by choices or changes you make all year round. But if, like me, you have a busy life, then it's all too easy to push those energy-saving habits to the bottom of the priority list.

That's why I'm a huge fan of changes you only have to do once, then you can lighten the mental load, sit back and settle in the knowledge that your home is doing the work while you focus on other aspects of day-to-day life.

1. Address any draughts

While my senses are definitely picking up on the signs of spring, it's still not warm enough to go without a burst of central heating, at least a couple of times a day. And that means preventing heat loss should still be a priority if you want to keep your home's energy consumption (and therefore your bills) under control.

‘Draught-proofing is one of the quickest ways to make your home heating system more efficient, resulting in savings of around £85 a year*,' says Martyn Bridges, Director of External Affairs at Worcester Bosch. 'Look out for any gaps, holes, or cracks in your windows, doors and floorboards where heat might be escaping and cover using foam strips or a brush draught excluder.’

Draught excluder tape like this from Amazon (£3.99), is effective, quick and easy to apply. Tackling draughts now can also help keep your home a more comfortable temperature in the summer too.

If your home is significantly draughty, especially around windows and doors, you may find you need to replace the tape every so often, or for a permanent solution, you could look into replacement windows or a new front door.

2. Swap to LED bulbs

Now that we're getting more hours of daylight, it's the ideal time to address any old incandescent bulbs you may still be using around your home, because you can actually see what you are doing!

'Modern LED lamps use 75-90% less energy than standard incandescent bulbs. Not only that, they typically last up to 25 times longer,' says Sam Garbutt, lighting expert at LED & Power.

And once you've changed them all over, it's definitely not something you need to worry about on a day-to-day basis.

3. Smarten up your heating system

Even though we're getting closer to spring and summer when you're heating gets to have a bit of a rest, it also means it's a good time to upgrade your heating controls before next winter.

'Smart thermostats and zoning systems let you heat only the rooms you’re actually using, improving comfort while lowering bills,' says Simon Bones, the founder and CEO of Genous. 'Many modern systems also allow different temperatures in different areas of the house, which can even help improve your EPC rating.

'With app-based controls, you can adjust settings remotely, keep temperatures consistent, and avoid leaving the heating or lights on unnecessarily. Pairing smart controls with smart bulbs or automated lighting further reduces standby energy use and trims monthly costs.'

Smart heating controls to consider

Now you can enjoy lower energy bills without even thinking about it!

*Figure correct as of July 2025, Energy Saving Trust.

As someone who works from home, being able to create a comfortable temperature in the room I'm in is important for me year round. I also have limited space, so am particularly curious about appliances that can be used for both heading and cooling purposes.

But as I test the best electric heaters and best fans, I'm curious as to whether a single unit is capable of meeting my needs. That's why I was super keen to test out the Russell Hobbs Bladeless Fan with Cool & Heat Function.

In a nutshell

I really enjoyed testing out the Russell Hobbs Bladeless Fan with Cool & Heat Function. It made really quick work of warming up my just under 18m2 living room, fit unobtrusively against the wall, and it's 90° oscillation means that it can effectively heat or cool the whole room evenly.

With multiple wind speed modes, and temperature settings means it's easy to personalise your desired comfort levels. And with ION Wind mode, it can kill bacteria in the end surrounding the fan, which in turn can make your home healthier.

It's not completely silent while in use, and depending on the fan speed I chose and whether I was using it in heat or cooling mode, it varied between barely and considerably noticeable.

On the whole I was impressed with this fan's effectiveness, especially in heat mode.

Specification

• Type of heater: Fan heater
• RRP: £199
• Weight: 7.41kgs
• Dimensions (W x H x D): 23 x 86 x 23cm
• Wattage: 2kW
• Running costs per hour: 55.38p/kWh
• Room size suitability: up to 25m2
• Smart features? N/A
• Dual functionality: Fan, heater, purifier mode
• Oscillation: Yes

Unboxing, setting up and first impressions

The fan arrived well packaged in cardboard (big tick from an easy recycling point of view), and a minimal amount of recyclable plastic.

In the box you get the ready-assembled fan and two filters, plus the instruction manual. The bladeless design means it's really easy to remove from the box and get upright.

Initially, I was surprised by how tall the Russell Hobbs Bladeless Fan with Cool & Heat Function was — it stands at 86cm. But while it was taller than I was expecting, it's base is about the size of a dinner plate, which meant I had the perfect unobtrusive spot for it in my living room (and I didn't have to rearrange the existing furniture to get there.

Once I had unboxed the fan heater, I moved it into the living room. While there are no dedicated handles for manoeuvrability, and it's height makes it a little cumbersome to try and lift from the base, I did find it easiest to move by slotting my arm through the hole in the middle and lifting it that way. If I was trying to take this up and down stairs though, I'd definitely recommend getting another pair of hands to help.

In terms of set-up, while this fan and heater can be plugged straight in and switched on, you will need to add the filters first. There are a couple of panels on the base of the unit, which pop off, then you slot the filters in and clip the panels back in place. I had no trouble with the first panel, but it was a little fiddly to get the second off. But after a bit of gentle teasing, I managed to get the filters in position.

What’s it like to use?

The Russell Hobbs Bladeless Fan with Cool & Heat Function is really easy to use, which I appreciated. The onboard touch panel is easy to reach, clear, responsive and largely intuitive. A couple of the modes, like Smart Wind and ION Wind, weren't initially clear as to what they would do, but fortunately there is a really clear breakdown in the instruction manual that explains exactly what these modes are meant to do.

There is also a handy remote control that allows you to turn it on and off, set a timer, adjust the temperature, wind speed, oscillation or turn on ION or Smart Wind mode. If you want to switch between heating and cooling mode, I found that couldn't be done via the remote, and instead I needed to use the onboard controls. Fortunately, they are on the top of the appliance so they are really easy to reach.

While the remote is handy, it only works when you are in front of the appliance and within 5m. I had the fan heater opposite where I tend to sit in the living room, so this worked fine, but its location is definitely something you should definitely think about if you are considering this fan heater.

When it comes to the different modes this fan heater has to offer, I tested it throughout February so opted for the heat mode more often than not. It took 5-10 seconds for the heat to start coming through the fan, but once it did, it made quick work of warming up the space, even quicker when I turned on the oscillating mode.

I really liked that I could choose a precise temperature, rather than a vague heat output setting. The temperature goes up to 35°C, but I found 22°C to be the most comfortable warming temperature. You don't get a choice of fan power in the heat mode, but it's pitched perfectly so I didn't find that to be detrimental.

However, in cooling mode, there are a lot more options. There are 12 fan speed settings, plus night and baby modes that put the fan on its quietest, gentlest setting. Wind speed settings 1-3 are very quiet indeed at around 45dB (which is classed as gentle background noise), but once you get to speed 4 and above the fan gets noisier, to the point when it's hard to ignore it. I clocked it at 65dB on setting 12, which is equivalent to chatting with friends.

There's a small display screen on the front of the unit, which lights up and displays any specific modes you have selected, but after 30 seconds, this dulls so it's not wasting energy lighting up unnecessarily. The same can be said for the light band that turns red when in heat mode and blue when in cooling mode. After 30 seconds, this turns off.

I actually found this colour banding to be a particularly useful feature, especially when the appliance remembers its settings from the last time it was used rather than defaulting to something specific. I couldn't always remember which setting I'd used last, so this instant visual cue as to whether it was in heat or cooling mode is very handy.

Running costs

Using the January 2026 energy price cap figure of 27.69p per kilowatt hour as the cost of electricity, (correct at the time of writing), this 2kW fan and heater will cost just over 55p per hour to run.

If that makes you baulk a little bit, then it's worth noting that being able to customise the temperature and wind speed modes to your personal taste can help keep running costs under control, especially compared to heaters with more basic dial controls. In addition, this appliance has a timer function you can set that means you reduce the chance of leaving it running longer than you need to. Moreover, in heat mode, it'll turn off automatically when it registers that the actual room temperature exceeds the target temperature.

You can also select a smart wind function that will automatically adjust the wind speed depending on temperature changes it monitors in the room.

Remember that when it comes to electric heaters, they are not designed to be used as a long-term primary heat source. It's best to think of them as complementary to your central heating, using them in short bursts to provide heat in the room you are in when you need it.

This is how to use the appliance most effectively.

Cleaning and maintenance

A quick dust on a regular basis is a good idea with this fan to keep it running it's best, and it's worth checking the filters every couple of months and vacuuming them to remove any build up.

Keep your eyes peeled too for the filter indicator light that may show on this display. This didn't appear during the testing process, but when that icon remains on, the filter needs replacing.

Who should buy it?

If you want to create a comfortable temperature year round using a single appliance, then the Russell Hobbs Bladeless Fan with Cool & Heat Function is a worthwhile investment. It heats quickly, offers decent cooling functionality and has an efficient, sturdy and bladeless design that means it would be suitable for a home with kids and pets. It also has built-in filtration and ion wind mode to purify and sterilizes the air, which will be very handy for allergy sufferers.

The dimensions of Russell Hobbs appliance may be a little large for smaller rooms, in which case the more compact Dreo Atom 316, which could sit on a table top, may be more suitable.

It's also a more budget-friendly alternative to the hugely popular Dyson models like the Dyson HP1 purifying fan heater which may be incredibly effective but its hefty price tag may be off-putting to some.

Here at Ideal Home, we've also tested the Shark TurboBlade Cool + Heat TH200UK, which offers similar functionality, but we much preferred it's impressive cooling capabilities to it's heat output, so if you are looking for something to provide winter comfort as well as summer cooling, I'd suggest going for the Russell Hobbs over the Shark.

When spring and summer roll around, we can typically expect our energy bills (depending on what tariff you have) to go down, too. But while we may not be relying on our heating as much, experts have revealed the four surprising things driving your energy bills up in the warmer months - plus, what you can do to reduce them.

Even though the most recent Ofgem price cap announcement revealed energy bills would drop by 7% on average from April, we’re all still looking for ways to save money at home.

Knowing how to save energy at home is a great way to save money, which is why it’s equally important to be aware of the things in your household that can drive prices up. Here’s everything you need to know.

1. Appliance efficiency

In the summer, household appliances have to work harder and therefore become less efficient in the process.

‘Seasonal changes can also impact how efficiently your appliances run. As temperatures rise, appliances that generate or rely on heat may work harder than usual,' says Stuart Middleton, So Energy’s Consumer Energy Expert.

'For example, limescale build-up in kettles forces them to use more energy to boil water, while under-loading washing machines means you’re using the same amount of electricity for fewer clothes. Running fuller loads at lower temperatures and descaling kettles regularly helps keep energy use down.'

‘Another often-overlooked factor is where your appliances are positioned. If your fridge or freezer is placed near a sunny window, radiator or oven, it will absorb extra heat and need to work harder to stay cool - particularly during warmer weather. Keeping these appliances in a shaded, well-ventilated spot and occasionally wiping down the coils at the back can improve efficiency and reduce running costs.’

2. Fans

‘As temperatures rise, fans and air‑con units come out of storage. They make a big difference to comfort, but they also increase electricity use, especially portable air‑conditioning units, which work harder the hotter it gets,’ says Gareth Kloet, energy expert at Go.Compare Energy.

I’d argue that owning one of the best fans or best portable air conditioners are essential items during hot weather. But positioning a fan in the wrong place can make it work less efficiently, and therefore cost you more money.

‘With warmer days, many households also rely more heavily on fans. While fans are far cheaper to run than air conditioning, their placement still matters. A fan placed near an open window during the hottest part of the day can actually pull warm air inside, making the room feel hotter. Positioning fans to circulate cooler air in the evening or directing airflow across your body rather than the whole room can keep you comfortable without unnecessary energy use,’ says Stuart.

3. Garden tools

In spring and summer, we all want to make the most of our gardens, and with this comes increased use of garden lighting, lawn mowers and even hot tubs.

‘Regular use of appliances like lawnmowers, hedge trimmers, and pressure washers can increase energy bills without us realising,’ says Hannah Folley, Service and Repair Engineer at British Gas.

‘While it may be tempting to compete for the best garden on your estate, make sure you’re not overusing these gadgets to keep your bills down. It’s also a good idea to top up rechargeable devices on a Sunday with British Gas’ PeakSave scheme, which offers customers half-price electricity every Sunday between 11 am and 4 pm.

‘You may also rely more on outdoor lighting, especially if you’re entertaining guests into the evening. To ensure you’re not wasting energy and pennies, it’s a good idea to use a smart plug like this one from Hive, which allows you to set a schedule and control lighting from your phone.

‘You could also switch to solar-powered festoon or spike lighting options to reduce energy usage even further.’

4. Fridges and freezers

Fridges and freezers work overtime when the weather is hot to keep your food chilled/ frozen. Because of this, there are a couple of things to take into account to keep running costs down.

‘This is especially true of appliances stored in garages or utility rooms where a lack of insulation can impact the room temperature even more,’ says Hannah

‘It’s therefore important to make sure your fridge and freezer are in good working order to prevent them from wasting energy and money. For example, it’s wise to leave at least five centimetres of space around the sides and back to help heat escape. This means the motor doesn’t have to work as hard.

‘And try to keep your fridge at least two-thirds full. It stops warm air from rushing in when you open the door, so it uses less energy to cool back down. If it looks a bit bare, especially before a holiday when it’s likely to be empty for a while, filling a few jugs or bottles with tap water can do the trick nicely.’

By keeping an eye on these four things, you can help reduce your bills this years - every penny helps, after all.

As winter is finally turning a corner into spring, I’m using the heating less and less. Plus, while it is just me and my dog for a few weeks, warming radiators in rooms we’re not in or heating a whole house seems incredibly wasteful.

For me, this is the perfect time to be testing an electric heater to see if it’s more cost efficient, energy efficient and convenient than using our central heating system.

At a mid-price-point, the Dreo Atom 316 fan heater I used definitely looked like it would do the job keeping my bedroom at a comfortable temperature, but I also put it to the test warming up my open plan kitchen, living, dining area to see what it could really do and if it competes with the best electric heaters on the market.

In a nutshell

The Dreo Atom 316 electric fan heater is a super convenient size and has a far more modern design than the traditional flat and low space heaters I’m used to.

The heat output even on the lowest setting is more than enough to heat a 20m2 room within half an hour and on its higher settings, even faster. Exactly what you need when you’re braving leaving the central heating off for longer.

The cylindrical design means the heat is evenly dispersed around the room, and the recessed carry handle on the back of the surprisingly light heater meant I could easily unplug it and move it around the house.

Using the heater was pleasingly simple; it has an LED display to show the mode and good quality touch buttons to change settings the the timer. Three heat settings is more than enough, but the heater also comes with an eco mode that will automatically select the optimal power setting based on the desired ambient temperature.

While it's undoubtedly effective, I wonder how much more effective it would be if it had an oscillating function.

Specifications

• Type of heater: Ceramic fan heater
• RRP: £49.99
• Weight: 1.25kg
• Dimensions (W x H x D): 15.29 x 24.51 x 15.29cm
• Wattage: 1000W, 1300W and 1500W
• Running costs per hour (based on current energy price cap): 28p, 36p and 42p per hour
• Room size suitability: 20m2
• Smart features: None
• Dual functionality: Fan
• Oscillation: None

Unboxing, setting up and first impressions

The Dreo Atom 316 arrived in a plastic protective bag, secured by polystyrene ends in a cardboard box - a fairly simple set-up that can only partially be recycled kerb-side. The remote also comes in a plastic bag and after a simple pull tab is removed is ready to use. A handy quick start guide provides the highlights of the heater without the overwhelming information that is included in the separate manual.

The heater itself is a pleasing design that wouldn’t look out of place in a living room. Its discreet black plastic and cylindrical style could be tucked away out of the way on the floor or at counter-level. Light but sturdy, I wasn’t concerned that the heater would be knocked over by me or my dog throughout the testing period.

After plugging in, the heater was ready-to go and the LED display lights up and warming begins as soon as the power button is touched. This could be problematic for households with curious small children, but fortunately there is a child lock mode that can be set using the timer and lower temperature buttons for three seconds.

What’s it like to use?

I found the Atom 316 incredibly easy to use right from the start. To begin with I used it manually to understand the different settings better and the I noticed I didn't really use the second heat mode that much. When I was in control I would either have it at H3 to heat the room and H1 to keep it at an ambient temperature.

Manually switching between the modes may seem like a hassle, but fortunately this heater has an eco mode, which allows you to set a preferred temperature and the heater will automatically adjust the settings accordingly.

I initially used it to heat a 17m2 bedroom, and was so impressed by how quickly it heated the room, I tried it out in my open plan kitchen, dining and living room. I like a moderately warm house so I set it to 19°C when the room temperature was at 15.9°C. It took 30 minutes to reach the temperature before turning to a lower power setting.

The touch buttons are responsive, but unfortunately don’t illuminate, so it can be hard to see what’s a power button and what’s the heat mode/timer.

That's where the remote control can come in handy. However, I found it that it wasn't very sensitive and that I had to be directly facing the LED display and within about 4m of the heater for it to work effectively.

Using the remote you can also turn the display off and mute the affirming beeps that accompany changing the temperature or settings. Strangely, the child-lock setting can’t be controlled via remote and only on the heater itself. A timer setting also serves to power down the heater once lapsed.

The noise levels of the Atom 316 were pleasingly quiet, with a high of 36 decibels on the maximum setting. However, this is still higher than the advertised 34 (which is more likely on the lowest setting).

Running costs

The Dreo Atom 316 has three different heat modes — 1000W, 1300W and 1500W, which would cost around 28p, 36p and 42p per hour respectively, based on current energy price cap of 27.67p per kWh for electricity.

Considering how quick it was to heat the room using the highest setting, I would say it’s really reasonably priced way to initially heat the room and then you can use the lower setting to keep it comfortable.

Cleaning and maintenance

During the initial testing period, there was no cleaning or maintenance required, so it's definitely not something you are going to have to address on a daily or even weekly basis.

However, for the longer term efficiency of the heater, it's advisable to keep it clean and prevent dust from building up.

As with all heaters, make sure it's cool and unplugged before you give it a clean. Dreo advises using a soft, dry cloth to wipe the exterior of the heater and the rear air inlet (a cotton tipped swap can also be used on the latter to remove fine dust particles).

What do other online reviews say?

The Dreo Atom 316 is extremely well-reviewed, with many picking it to be the best fan heater on the market. It generally receives between 4.5 and 5 stars, depending on the website and I would wholeheartedly agree that this product packs a huge punch and for not a great sum of money.

Who should buy this electric heater?

I would hugely recommend this heater to anyone who wants to invest in a good quality small appliance that is well-made with decent heat options and safety modes. It offers great value for money, and it's space-saving design means it's ideal for those who want something discreet.

However if you want something similar that oscillates, then the Morphy Richards HeatFlux Ultra Thin 2kW ceramic fan tower heater could be a good alternative, thanks to its slimline design.

If smart features are more your bag, then investing a little more in a model like the Mill WiFi Max 1.5kW portable heater will get you the additional functionality you're after.

Here at Ideal Home, we've been recommending the best products for your home for more than 100 years. As Ideal Home's Renovation and Home Energy Editor, a huge part of my remit is sharing advice on how you can keep your home warm in the most energy efficient way possible. That includes reviewing a whole host of electric heaters and oil-filled radiators.

Along with my team of expert reviewers, hours and hours are spent testing these products in real home environments, paying close attention to every detail. After all, if we are recommending the best electric heaters or oil-filled radiators, we want you to be able to trust those recommendations so that you make the right decision for your home.

To help you get a clearer idea of how we test electric heaters and oil-filled radiators, I've broken down the process that every single product of this type goes through.

How we test electric heaters and oil-filled radiators at Ideal Home

There are various factors that we are looking to assess when we test electric heaters and oil-filled radiators:

• Unboxing and set up
• Looks
• Specification
• Ease of use and effectiveness
• Cleaning and maintenance
• Running costs
• How it compares with other products

How we assess unboxing and set up

If you are buying an electric heater or oil-filled radiator online, then how it arrives at your home matters. We carefully assess how effectively the appliance is packaged, and double check that it arrives in pristine condition. Sustainability is important too so we check the packaging itself and determine whether it all feels necessary and how much of it is recyclable.

We also pay close attention to how easy the heater or radiator is to get out of the packaging and set up single handedly. We also time how long it takes from getting the item out of the packaging to when it's up and running so we can give you a realistic expectation of how long it might take you.

How we assess looks

While electric heaters and oil-filled radiators are primarily functional appliances, when they are on display in your home, then their appearance will be a key part of your decision making.

That's why we make sure we test a broad range of heaters, from tiny personal plug heaters and space-saving tower heaters all the way through to modern bladeless models and characterful stove options.

How we assess the specification

We carefully track the specification details, including price, dimensions, wattage, room size suitability and additional features, of every single heater we test.

This not only means we can readily compare similar heaters to save you the hassle of having to do it yourself, but it also ensures we can check the manufacturers claims against our real world experience of the product.

How we assess ease of use and effectiveness

After we've assessed initial set up of the heater, we test the on-board control panel, as well as any remote or app controls, to determine just how intuitive they are to use.

We also look at the nuances of the controls, like switching between different heating modes or selecting different temperature outputs to see how easy it is and how quickly the heater responds. And rest assured we check every single mode and temperature scale so we fully understand the heater's full capacity.

Once it's running, we measure how long it takes to feel the benefit of the heat output, any temperature changes, as well as how long it takes to cool down once switched off. We also use a decibel meter to measure how much noise the heater makes when in us.

As heaters of this nature are also expected to be portable, we also try moving it around to different locations, paying close attention to the weight, bulk and any handles.

How we assess running costs

We understand how valuable to know how much heaters cost to run, so we make sure that we give you accurate running cost data based on the appliance's wattage and current prices under the energy price cap.

To keep those costs as low as possible, we also make sure to draw your attention to any energy monitoring capabilities and the effectiveness of any eco modes the heater may have.

How we assess cleaning and maintenance

Effective cleaning and maintenance is essential in order to keep your heater in most efficient working order. And so this is an important part of our testing process.

We check manufacturer guidelines and see how often we need to clean the heater during out initial testing window of at least two weeks.

How we compare with other products

A huge benefit of putting all of the electric heaters and oil-filled radiators through the same rigorous testing process, is that it enables us to compare them on a level playing field and helps you have real confidence in our recommendations.

We have a small group of testers, who each review a specific type of electric heater or oil-filled radiator. That means we're well-versed in these types of products and have clear understanding of what works well and what needs improvement.

We compare these heaters on a range of points, including their price, spec, running costs, wattages and overall appearance, as well as any additional features they may have such as oscillation, app control or dual purpose.

On top of that, we also assign each item we review a dedicated star rating, which is a key factor in determining whether a heater we've reviewed is impressive enough to make it into our best of the best buying guides.

This is how our star ratings work:

• 5 stars - a supremely impressive electric heater that exceeds our expectations and cannot be faulted in any way.
• 4.5 stars - an impressive electric heater, but it leaves us wanting a bit more, so it doesn’t quite hit the 5-star mark.
• 4 stars - a high-quality electric heater that is worth your money but may need some fine-tuning before it suits every customer and every home.
• 3 stars - a good electric heater that works well but doesn't blow us away with its specs or price tag. In some cases, it may not heat a room as effectively as competitors.
• 2 stars - an affordable electric heater that will suit all budgets but is under-specced and lacks key heating features.
• 1 star - we would not recommend this electric heater, as it is underwhelming and does not work as intended.

Our reviewers

Read our latest reviews

• Dreo Smart Whole Room 714S electric heater review
• Mill WiFi Max 1500W portable electric heater review
• Duux Edge 2000W oil-filled radiator review
• VonHaus Electric Stove & Log Store review
• Morphy Richards HeatFlux Ultra Thin 2kW ceramic tower fan heater review

You'll find full details of the Ideal Home review process on our how we test page, including how we put mattresses, air fryers, vacuum cleaners and more, through their paces to bring you our top recommendations.

Not everyone wants to keep their central heating running all day long – let's face it, energy bills can skyrocket during these winter months. That said, sitting with your teeth chattering under layers of blankets isn't always too appealing either – which is where other forms of heater can come in handy.

If you are able to get your hands on one of the best oil-filled radiators out there you can expect many benefits. They are a great way to heat just a single room, are easy to transport around the house when needed and have come on in leaps in bounds both in terms of their appearance as well as their efficiency.

However, understanding how oil-filled radiators work is vital if you want to make the most of yours and ensure you are not simply adding to your home energy costs. I took a closer look into exactly how these heating appliances work to heat a house, as well as how much electricity they guzzle while doing so.

How do oil-filled radiators work?

First things first, lets take a look at how oil-filled radiators work – thankfully, it is actually pretty simple.

They run off electricity and are made up of a collection of fins, the number of which can vary – generally, the bigger the unit and the more fins there are, the greater the heat output although with some more modern models this won't always be the case.

Oil-filled radiators, as the name suggests, are filled with a thermal oil that gets heated up by an internal element. This is a little different to standard radiators that are part of a central heating system as these are filled with water that has been heated up outside of the unit by a boiler.

They are a form of convection heater, meaning they transfer heat to the air, rather than to an object or person (as is the case with infrared heaters).

Shop oil-filled radiators

How long does it take an oil-filled radiator to heat up a room?

For many people, the speed at which a heater can heat up a room is really important – after all, you hardly want it to sit there using your electricity and feel no benefits for ages. But while oil-filled radiators may not deliver instant results, their heat retention is impressive.

'An oil-filled radiator doesn’t heat a room instantly, as the internal oil needs time to heat up before it can effectively start transferring heat into the room,' explains Olivia Marshall, product manager at online heating, bathroom and kitchen specialist Plumbworld. 'It can take around 10-15 minutes to heat up and you’ll start to notice the room gradually warming up from as little as 20 minutes, depending on the size of the area. Other factors that could impact heating time include the heater wattage, whether the room is well insulated, air circulation and the starting temperature inside.

'Using a fan heater is great for a quick burst of heat in a room, however they often have a very limited reach and don’t heat up the whole room evenly when compared to an oil-filled radiator,' points out Olivia.

How long do oil-filled radiators stay warm for after you turn them off?

Standard radiators don't go cold as soon as the heating goes off – and neither do oil-filled radiators immediately feel cold to the touch when switched off.

'An oil-filled radiator will stay warm for between 1.5 and 2.5 hours after it’s been turned off, thanks to the heat-retaining oil,' reveals Liz Hunter, commercial director at MoneyExpert – but how does this compare to the best electric heaters out there?

'A fan or electric heater provides instant heat by blowing out hot air, but doesn’t tend to retain it and will usually cool down almost instantly after it's switched off,' explains Liz. 'This means it’s better for heating a smaller area, such as a bathroom or home office.'

'Although oil-filled radiators do take longer to heat up than fan heaters, they provide a more consistent heat and retain warmth long after they are turned off,' adds Olivia Marshall. 'This means you’ll be able to turn it off completely and continue to feel the warmth, without paying for any more electricity.'

FAQs

Do oil-filled radiators use a lot of electricity?

One of the main things people ask about this type of heater is whether electric heaters are cheaper to run than central heating – or will they see household bills soar?

'The cost of using an oil-filled radiator ultimately depends on its wattage, your electricity rate, room size, insulation, and how often you use it,' picks up Liz Hunter. 'Larger spaces or poorly insulated rooms, for example, need more energy to heat and maintain a comfortable temperature. However, they’re generally more energy-efficient than most options. Their efficiency comes from using thermal oil to slowly retain and radiate heat, making them good for consistent, long-term warmth rather than quick bursts.'

'It’s important to choose an oil-filled radiator that is suitable for the room you want to heat,' adds Olivia Marshall. 'A large room will likely need a radiator with 1500W or more, compared with a small room that may only need 500W.

'A 500W oil-filled radiator used for 3 hours could cost around 42p in electricity, or £12.63 per month,' continues Olivia. 'A more powerful 1500W radiator could cost £1.25 per day and £37.90 per month. The higher the wattage, the more you will pay more in electricity, so it’s important to find an oil-filled radiator that’s most efficient and effective when heating a room.'

Can you buy wall-mounted oil-filled radiators?

While the most recognisable form of oil-filled radiators tend to be those on castors, ready to be wheeled around the house as and when required, they do come in other forms – and these modern oil-filled radiators tend to look far more stylish than the models of old.

Not only do modern offerings offer all kinds of smart heating features, such as being WiFi enabled in order for homeowners to control them from outside the house using a smart device, but they can also be wall-mounted, just like a standard radiator.

These wall-mounted models come in all shapes, sizes and colours too meaning it will be easy to find one to suit your particular needs.

Whether you are renovating, extending or simply updating a house, it really is a good idea to familiarise yourself with all the different types of heating system on offer. You could find you are paying more than you need or that your current system isn't the most effective for your home and needs.

While the wet weather has meant we've seen slightly milder temperatures, it's definitely not time to pack away your portable heater just yet.

Frosty mornings and sub-zero evenings might have been few and far between this winter, but it's definitely not warm enough to go without the central heating. And for those who find themselves at home in the day, you might still find yourself a little chilly between your heating's scheduled on and off times. That's where one of the best electric heaters can be incredibly handy, giving you a targeted burst of heat, just in the room you need it when you start to feel chilly.

But if you do choose to complement your central heating this way, how long should you actually have the portable heater on for, and is it possible to have it on for too long? As someone who's been writing about home heating for the best part of two decades, this is what I'd recommend.

How long should an electric heater be on for?

There's no hard and fast rule for how long you can use an electric heater for, but generally, these appliances are designed for occasional rather than constant use.

That means if you want to take the edge off a cold room in between periods when your central heating's on, a 20-30 minute blast of your electric heater a few of times a day may be all you need. On particularly chilly days, then having your heater on for a 2-3 hours in the room you are in can be a relatively efficient way to use your electric heater, especially if it's a model that reduced it's power consumption when the desired temperature is reached.

However, this timeframe largely depends on how powerful your heater is, how well insulated your home is, and how big the room is that you are trying to heat. If you have a suitably sized electric heater for the size of room, and you're using it in a well-insulated space with doors and windows closed to prevent the heat your generating from escaping, you'll may find you are plenty warm enough after about 15 minutes of your heater running.

On the other hand, if you feel like you need the heater on constantly and you're still cold, then it's worth assessing your set up to check whether it's best suiting your needs. It may be that your electric heater isn't powerful enough to adequately heat the room you are in, and it's struggling and using more energy that it needs to as it tries.

It's worth also checking that you've not got any obvious draughts that mean cold air is coming in from outside, and the lovely warmth from your heater is just escaping straight out of your home.

If you've checked for and resolved any draughts and your heater is appropriate for the size of room, and you're finding you need your heater on for long periods of time (and it's not as a result of any health concerns you may have), then it may be a sign that your wall or roof insulation is failing and it needs assessing by a professional.

Need to upgrade your electric heater?

If you have an old inefficient heater, or yours is unsuitable for the space you want to heat, upgrading means you'll get more effective heat output and potentially some eco-friendly features too.

How long is too long to have your portable electric heater on for?

If you are finding you want to use your portable electric heater for hours on end, every day during the winter, then that's definitely not the best way to use it.

If you notice your heater making any strange noises, emitting any strange smells or struggling to maintain a steady temperature, then that can be a sign it's time to switch it off for a bit. If it happens consistently, then an upgrade may be necessary.

Needing to use the appliance for that long usually means that your property is struggling to hold on to heat, and that's definitely not ideal from an energy efficiency perspective. There may also be safety issues around overheating, which is just one of the reasons it's not advisable to use an electric heater overnight.

Plus, this is a very expensive way to use an electric heater. Based on the January 2026 energy price cap, portable electric heaters, which tend to have wattages between 1000 and 2500W, will cost between 28 and 69p per hour to run. So they're not cheap, especially when used for long periods. That's why they are best used as an occasional complement to a gas central heating system, rather than as a primary source of heat.

Even if you only use yours occasionally, there are still steps you can take to make them more cost effective. 'Using built-in thermostat, timer or eco settings can further reduce running costs,' explains Stuart Middleton, Consumer Energy Expert at So Energy. 'Setting the heater to the lowest comfortable temperature rather than running it at full power continuously, and programming it to switch off automatically, can prevent unnecessary usage.'

FAQs

Heating my uninsulated 1970s extension can be quite the chore and pretty expensive using our 30 year-old oil boiler. I work from home through the week, so I always feel especially bad using radiators that are linked together to heat the open plan space I call my temporary office (the dining table) during the day and my bedroom at night.

While it's wise to use the best electric heaters in a well-insulated space if you want to use it for long periods, the fact that part of my home is currently uninsulated actually means I need all the help I can get keeping warm. And so I put the extremely affordable Abode Horizontal and Vertical Fan Heater through it's paces.

In a nutshell

One of the most affordable electric heaters on the market, Abode’s Horizontal and Vertical Fan Heater has a basic design and control panel, which is to be expected with a sub-£15 price point.

It has a simple dial to turn between off, fan, low and high, which means it's incredibly quick to set up and simple to use. In terms of heat output, it did manage to keep it a pretty consistent temperature once it was going, although I found it look a little longer to heat up than I anticipated.

While I appreciate how budget friendly it is, I did find that is was a little unstable when positioned in vertical mode, and so preferred to use it in horizontal mode instead, especially with a curious dog around.

Specification

• Type of heater: Fan heater
• RRP: £14.99
• Weight: 1.15kg
• Dimensions (W x H x D): 24.5 x 24.4 x 11.5cm
• Wattage: 1000-2000W
• Running costs per hour (based on current energy price cap): 28-56p
• Room size suitability: 20m2 (although after testing, I would say it's better in rooms less than 15m2)
• Smart features: N/A
• Dual functionality: Fan
• Oscillation: None

Unboxing, setting up and first impressions

The Abode Horizontal and Vertical Fan Heater arrived in a fairly basic, compact package with simple polystyrene mould to keep it in place and a plastic bag (that can be recycled at supermarkets) to protect the cord and heater. It was extremely easy to set up, I simply unpackaged, plugged in and turned it on. As there are no special features or remotes to get to grips with, the instructions were clear.

The only thing I was slightly confused about was how to stand the heater up. The heater is marketed to be horizontal and vertical standing - the instructions also have a diagram showing the heater standing vertically - but when stood vertically I felt it was a little unstable. After a few times knocking it over, I found having it flat on the floor was much sturdier.

What’s it like to use?

Something I really appreciated about this heater is it's ease of use. I don’t think it’s possible to mess up using this heater, after all the control dial offers only three settings, fan, low and high. I used it in a room slightly smaller (17m2) than the recommended maximum room size of 20m2 and after three hours the room temperature had increased by around 4°C (15.1°C to 18.3°C). For the very affordable price tag, you don't get a lot of nuance when it comes to temperature control, but the different settings do allow you to customise the heat output to an extent.

While switching between the modes on the appliance itself was not a problem for me, it may not be suitable for someone with accessibility concerns.

As there is no oscillating function, the position of the heater is fairly crucial to optimise warmth. For instant heat, I found that you do need the fan heater pointed directly at you, otherwise you're waiting for the whole room to warm gradually, which means it'll take longer for you to feel the benefits. Fortunately the heater's design is compact enough to position exactly where I need it.

As this is a fan heater, I was expecting a bit of noise as the fan works to push the heat out. I measured this at 49dB, which is comparable with the hum of a fridge. Whether this bothers you will depend on your tolerance of and sensitivity to noise. I found it a bit distracting as I was trying to work, but you'd definitely still be able to hold a conversation with someone else while this fan heater is whirring in the background without having to raise your voice.

With any electric heater or oil-filled radiator, you can expect a bit of a strange smell when you first use it, and that normally disappears after 10 minutes or so, but I felt that I still noticed it even after a week of daily use.

Running costs

This Abode fan heater has two settings 1000W and 2000W that will impact how much it costs to run it. Given the current energy price cap at 27.69p per kWh, it will cost approximately 28p an hour to run on the lowest setting and 56p on the highest.

With no eco mode or efficiency features available, it definitely isn’t the cheapest heating solution when running for hours on end, so it's definitely best used as a complement to a central heating system, for a burst of heat when needed rather than as a primary heat source.

Cleaning and maintenance

When I first turned on the heater I could smell burning dust for a few hours so I switched it off and used a dry microfibre cloth to clean these slots and dampened it a little for the surface of the heater and let it dry before using it again.

Fortunately this should be all that's needed to keep this little heater running properly. In order to keep it running properly. Long-term, I could see the white plastic design showing the dust, but it does also come in black which may disguise any potential discolouration.

Who should buy this electric heater?

If you are looking to for an extremely affordable electric heater for a small home office or sitting room used during the day in more temperate seasons, I would say this is suitable buy that does exactly what you would expect from a traditional fan heater.

However, if you are willing to spend a little bit more, you could get some increased functionality that is well worth the spend. For example, with a slightly higher RRP of £49.99, the Dreo Atom 316 heater, also has a compact and portable design but offers much more accurate temperature control, can heat larger spaces (up to 30m2), and comes with a remote control that means it's much better suited to those who may have mobility issues.

Another space-saving option would be the Morphy Richards Heatflux Ultra Thin 2kW tower fan heater. It has a RRP of £99.99, but you can get it at multiple retailers for a good £20 cheaper. While this is a step up in price point from the £15 Abode model, that additional investment gets you an sleek oscillating design, eco mode, temperature control and quick heat up of spaces up to 20m2.

If, like me, you spend a lot of time at home during the day, you too might baulk at the idea of having to have your central heating on near constantly in order to keep warm.

That's where investing in one of the best electric heaters can be a wise choice. They can provide a quick burst of heat in the room you are in, meaning you don't have to heat your whole house unnecessarily.

But there is a lot of choice out there, which can make it hard to know which is the right option for you. As someone who writes about all aspects of heating, and reviews electric heaters for a living, these are the questions to ask yourself to choose the right product for your home.

1. How quickly do you want it to heat up and cool down?

One of the first questions to ask yourself is how quickly you want your chosen appliance to generate heat and how long you want it to retain heat for. This is where it's best to understand the differences between electric heaters and oil-filled radiators.

If you are after instant heat, then an oil-filled radiator definitely isn't for you as it takes a bit of time for the thermal oil inside to get up to temperature. Instead a fan heater will be a much better choice, especially if you choose one that oscillates. 'Fan heaters and tower heaters are the perfect choice if you want quick heat while you are present in the room,' says Elise Reiten, R&D Manager of Mill Heating. 'They are usually small and light weight and can easily be moved around where you need heating, as well as they are easy to store away during summer.'

On the other hand, if you want an appliance that continues to kick out heat after you've turned it off, then an oil-filled radiator is actually the best choice thanks to it's heat retention properties.

Remember too that you'll need to position your heater correctly in order to get the best heat output.

2. How comfortable are you with noise?

If you have any noise sensitivity, or are easily distracted by unusual sounds, then it's a good idea to choose a heater that is silent in operation.

That means avoiding a fan heater, which depending on the model and power setting can emit sounds that are more than noticeable, and instead opting for a convection heater.

'If you want a heater that quickly heats the room quietly, a portable convection heater with wire heating element is the best choice for you,' says Elise. 'It is not as fast as a heater with a fan that forces the air circulation quickly, but it is almost as fast and has the benefit that it dries the air less than fan heaters. They are powerful, yet operates quietly, and are light weight and easy to move around.'

Oil-filled radiators are also silent in operation, but are slower to heat up than a convection heater.

3. Do you want to be able to control the heater from your phone?

If you love being able to control various aspects of your home from your phone, whether you are home or not, then a smart electric heater could be right up your street.

Whether you want to turn the heater on just before you get home so it's warm when you walk in, or you want to check you've turned it off when you leave, being able to control your electric heater via an app is very handy indeed.

Beyond that, many smart models come with energy monitoring features, open window detection and can automatically reduce energy consumption when the desired temperature is reached. All of which will help you use your electric heater in the most energy efficient way possible.

'Think of portable electric heaters as a top-up rather than your main source of heating,' says Stuart Middleton, Consumer Energy Expert at So Energy. 'They’re great for warming up a room for a short period, but pairing them with warmer clothing, blankets and simple energy-saving habits will keep you cosy while keeping your bills in check.'

4. Do you have allergies?

For those with allergies, or who hate the idea of the air in their home becoming uncomfortably dry, then it's best to avoid a fan heater that could move dust an allergens around, and dry the air out.

Instead there are a a few alternative options that may suit. Firstly, you could look at a ceramic heater. 'The gentlest fan heaters have a ceramic PTC heating element, says Elise. 'The gentle PTC heating element has a lower surface temperature than normal fan heaters with heating wires. This means that the heater will burn less dust and not dry the air as regular fan heaters do.'

Secondly, you could choose an oil-filled radiator, as Elise goes on to explain: 'Oil filled radiators have the heating element encapsulated, meaning it is not in direct contact with surrounding air and will not burn dust, nor dry the air. This makes oil filled radiators a great choice for people with allergies, or people that simply want a heating source that is good for the indoor climate.'

Another option for allergy sufferers is to look for a heater/air purifier hybrid that will keep you warm and remove pollutants from the air at the same time.

5. Are you looking for a permanent or temporary solution?

It's worth also asking yourself whether you want a portable heater that you can move around your home, and pack away for the summer, or a permanent option that remains in place all year.

If you're after something more permanent, then a wall-mounted option, like the Ecostrad iQ Ceramic WiFi Controlled Electric Radiator, £299.99 from Electric Radiators Direct is a good idea. It can either be freestanding or attached to the wall if you want to keep your floors free from potential trip hazards.

Alternatively, you could try an electric stove style heater than makes an attractive focal point.

6. How big is the room you want to heat?

Once you've narrowed down the type of electric heater you want, you need to ensure that you choose a suitably powered model for the room you want to heat.

Get one too small and it will struggle to heat the space effectively, too big and it will use more energy than you need it too, and you may find you get uncomfortably hot.

A good rule of thumb to follow is to allow around 100W per m2 of space you are trying to heat.

Before you make your final decision, make sure you quadruple check what you should know before buying an electric heater so you're as well-informed as possible.

In the past, electric fan heaters suffered a bit of a bad rep, often being viewed as unattractive, bulky energy guzzlers that were only really any good for creating little hot spots and posing something of a fire hazard to boot.

The days of course things have moved on and the best electric heaters are now seen as a really useful method of heating up a room fast – plus they come with all kinds of nifty features that mean they don't have to result in eye-watering energy bills.

That said, not all are created equal. As a someone who works from a very cold house, and who regularly suffers numb fingers and toes, I couldn't wait to test out this offering from Morphy Richards and I definitely wasn't disappointed – this is nothing like the fan heaters of old and really has transformed my working days. Might it be the right kind of electric heater for you? Read on to find out.

In a nutshell

Smart, slimline and simple to use, this lightweight tower fan heater blended into my home seamlessly, unlike my old clunky white model which I would shuffle out of sight when guests came around.

It can be controlled via the touch-screen control panel or by a nifty little remote, both of which are pleasingly sparse in terms of buttons. That said, don't let the lack of knobs and dials fool you into thinking this fan is short on attributes – it really isn't. While it might not have any smart features, it offers a timer function which is really easy to get to grips with, an eco mode that helps you avoid wasting heat and energy and three heat settings.

The fact that it can be set to oscillate was a huge bonus for me and would be for anyone wanting a good, even distribution of heat, say, in an open plan space like the one I was testing it in .

How I tested the fan

Specification

• Type of heater: Fan heater
• RRP: £100
• Weight: 2.8kg
• Dimensions: (W x H x D): 18.7cm x 65.8cm x 23.3cm
• Wattage: 2kW
• Running costs per hour: £0.55 - £0.56p/kWh
• Room size suitability: 20m2
• Smart features? N/A
• Dual functionality? None
• Oscillation? Yes

Unboxing, setting up and first impressions

The Morphy Richards HEATFLUX came really nicely packaged and I was pleasantly surprised when I took it off the doorstep at how lightweight it was to bring inside, even while still in its box.

On opening up the box it was not only a huge relief to see that there were minimum components to get to grips with, but also that the packaging itself had been kept to a minimum. No polystyrene, three cardboard support pieces, two slim cardboard boxes housing the plug and base and just two plastic bags. The cardboard will actually come in handy as firelighters.

On removing the fan from the box I was struck again by how lightweight it is – plus, it has a carry handle at the top. It is a nice mid-grey shade that will blend in easily with all kinds of room decor and it's super slimline too.

In terms of set-up, all that was required was for me to click the tower section onto the base. I have to say, to begin with my brain didn't quite register how to do this and there weren't any guidelines in the user manual that had come in the box. However, after fiddling around for a couple of minutes, I realised that I was trying to put the base on upside-down – after this it clicked on really smoothly and I was good to go.

What’s it like to use?

I am going to start with a little scene setting here. My house is old and very cold – pretty much year-round, but I am testing this fan heater in February meaning it is particularly chilly right now. When I come downstairs in the morning the thermostat tends to read around 16°C in the open plan kitchen/diner/snug I sit at my laptop in.

To get going, you simply plug the fan in and use the switch located on the back to turn the unit on – after which the fan will enter standby mode. The fan can then be controlled using either the smart touch screen control panel on the front of the unit, or via the little remote control, which came fitted with the battery, ready to use. Both are pretty much self-explanatory thanks to the clear symbols but the user manual is also easy to follow.

Along with the on/off switch, there are controls for the timer, temperature, control panel lights (handy if you want the display to go dark at nighttime) and swing function.

When you turn the the fan on using the standby on/off switch, it starts at the default temperature of 35°C and at low power. You can then change the temperature and the power setting. There are three power settings to choose from – 'low', 'high' and 'cooling'. I started using the high setting but soon found that 'low' worked just fine, even in my open plan space.

In terms of noise levels, the fan runs at 45dB. Once it is up and running, the fan gives off what I would call a gentle-to-mid level hum, perhaps just a notch higher than that given off by a fan oven when it is on, but lower than a dehumidifier.

It heats up within minutes. I decided to place it in the snug area of the open plan space, in a position I felt would give the most even distribution of heat. I then set it to oscillate – and if you have an open plan space I would highly recommend this as it made such a difference in a very short space of time. Personally I would have preferred the cable length to be a little more generous in order to get even of a more central position within the room.

Something I really like – as did my husband, who is very much a 'just put another layer on' type of person in the face of a cold house – is the ECO mode. When you select this the heater will automatically adjust the heating power based on the room's temperature – if the temperature sits between 18 - 25°C it runs at low power, if it rises above 25°C all functions go off, and when the temperature is less than 18°c the fan runs at high power. Simple.

As we have pets and two ever-so-slightly clumsy teenagers, one of whom likes to chuck his rugby ball about indoors, I was a bit worried that the tower design might prove a little unstable. However, the base has a good weight to it and should it tip over, it automatically shuts off.

Finally, there is also a 'cooling mode' – obviously right now I don't need this but it is designed to keep the room temperature at 7°C which could be useful in the summer months. I could only get this to work using the control panel, not with the remote.

Running costs

Just like any kind of electrical appliance, the running costs of this fan depend on the power setting you use, the length of time you use it and your electricity costs.

Based on the January 2026 energy price cap figure of 27.69p per kilowatt hour, this means that to run the fan for one hour at high power costs roughly 55p. Turn it to low power or ECO and you could be looking at running costs as low as 36p per hour.

While this doesn't sound like much, if you were running it all day long, every day, in addition to your central heating, costs could soon add up so it is best reserved for a quick blast of heat first thing in the morning. The timer function is really useful here too. I could set it to come on for an hour before getting up in the morning and come down to a nice warm kitchen.

Cleaning and maintenance

The mid-grey matte finish of the fan means it shows up dirt far less easily than my old white fan heater. A quick wipe over with a dry cloth removes any dust from the front grille although I wonder if, over time, dust could build up in this grille – in which case a quick once-over with the vacuum nozzle would probably do the trick.

Removing the filter from the rear is easy. Just click it off. It isn't a soft filter like you might expect to find in a vacuum, so washing and drying it is a quick, simple affair.

What do other online reviews say?

The reviews for this tower heater are, in the main, really positive. Like me, users seem to love the slimline design and how lightweight it is, as well as appreciating its unobtrusive appearance. Before this fan, I had a smaller white one that really did nothing for the decor in my home, but you wouldn't really notice the Morphy Richards model tucked into a corner, oscillating away.

There were a few negative reviews, of course, and I did agree with a couple of these. One was cord length – like me, some found it could do with being longer and I wouldn't want to be pulling out extension leads in order to get it sitting more centrally.

A few reviewers felt that the heat it produced wasn't well distributed but I can honestly say I didn't find this to be the case – quite the opposite in fact.

Who should buy this electric heater?

If, like me, you work from home, or live in a chilly old house that could benefit from a burst of heat to take the edge off periodically, I don't think you can go far wrong with the Morphy Richards HEATFLUX Ultra Thin 2kW Ceramic Tower Fan Heater.

Yes it is more expensive than some other models on the market, but what you get for that extra initial output is something that looks stylish and smart and offers settings that can save you from wasting energy.

Even in my open plan space I felt a really welcome and noticeable difference when using this and, when I closed the doors leading off to other rooms, the heat felt like it stayed in too.

Being a fan heater though, it doesn't retain heat once turned off in the same way as your radiators might. If you want something portable that does, you would be better off looking at some of the best oil-filled radiators out there such as the VonHaus Oil Filled Radiatoror, if you like the idea of a portable heater with some smart features that lets you control it when you are not at home, the Dreo Smart 9 Fins Oil Filled Radiator is a brilliant choice.

You could be forgiven for thinking that electric heaters should be felt rather than seen. After all, models of old were definitely more functional than attractive.

While the best electric heaters have improved over the years, with sleeker and more contemporary designs becoming the norm, there are few that are genuinely beautiful enough to become features of your home in there own right.

Enter the VonHaus Electric Stove & Log Store that offers a convincing and affordable alternative to a log-burning stove. I put it through it's paces to see if it's worth the investment and help you decide if it's the right kind of electric heater for you.

In a nutshell

I love the idea of a log-burning stove, but for a multitude of reasons, it's never really felt like a feasible option for my home. And so I was thrilled to test out the VonHaus Electric Stove & Log Store, that evokes a similar feeling, without any of the installation hassle or the price tag in the thousands.

And it didn't disappoint! Friends and family have oo-ed and ahh-ed over it, and I love that it feels like a characterful focal point in my home. I was impressed with the heat output, and even though it's not silent in operation when you have the heat on, it's definitely not obnoxiously loud.

While you could technically move this into different rooms as and when you wanted to, it's quite heavy and there are no easy handles, so you'd need a couple of people. And with it's sizable dimensions, you might prefer to pick a suitable spot for it and leave it there.

Specification

• Type of heater: Fan heater/ electric stove
• RRP: £229.99
• Weight: 11.5kgs
• Dimensions (W x H x D): 44.5cm x 74.5cm x 32cm
• Wattage: 1,000-2,000W
• Running costs per hour: 27.69 – 55.38p/kWh
• Room size suitability: 28m2
• Smart features? N/A
• Dual functionality: None
• Oscillation: None

Unboxing, setting up and first impressions

I was a little bit daunted when I saw the size of the box that landed on my doorstep when the Vonhaus Electric Stove arrived, but fortunately there was a smaller box inside, along with some polystyrene supports that meant it arrived in pristine condition. The packaging in mostly cardboard, all of which is easily recycled.

At 11.5kgs, it's quite heavy to remove from the box, so I carefully put the box on it's side and gently manoeuvred it out of the packaging. There's not really any suitable hand-holds to grab on to near the top, so to set it the right way up, I felt I was using the tips of my fingers to try and carry it, which I wouldn't recommend. Definitely try and get a helping hand to aid you in moving it to your desired spot.

Looks-wise, the stove is beautiful. It's a matt black with three glass panels, one on each side and one on the front, with a faux door handle for decoration. Underneath the subtle grill where the heat comes out, there is a shelf where you can add logs (not included) to really lean in to the log-burner aesthetic. I've left mine empty for the time being as I have a curious and stick-loving puppy who would love nothing more than a decorative log to chew on.

In terms of set-up, I loved how easy it was. Especially after I was testing this after testing a smart electric heater that involved a fair amount of digital set up. For this one, I could simply plug it into the wall and switch it on! The power cable is of a decent length, although while the official specs state that this is 1.9m, when I measured it, it was more like 1.7m.

What’s it like to use?

Although the VonHaus Electric Stove can't be controlled by your smart phone (unless you use it a smart plug), it is really easy to use. The controls are so simple, you really can't go wrong.

The control panel for this electric stove heater is located on the back. There are three switches; one to turn on the flame effect, one to turn on 1,000W of heat, and another which will kick the heat output up to 2,000W. In addition, there's a dial to adjust the temperature.

First off you can turn on the flame effect without having the heat on, which creates a lovely ambience whatever the weather. It's a realistic flicker, and the three glass panels on the heater mean you can see it from multiple angles which is a lovely touch.

When you turn the heat on, there is a noticeable hum of the fan, but my decibel reader measured this to be between 51 and 54dB which it states is the equivalent of gentle background noise. When I put the heater on while I was watching the TV, I didn't have to adjust the TV's volume to compensate.

Flip the second heat switch on along with the first, and the heat output kicks up a notch (although I didn't notice a change in the sound of the fan, which I thought was impressive).

The heat comes through quickly, so it's not long at all before the whole room is feeling toasty.

I located the stove heater in the corner of the room, with nothing above it, so I found it quite easy to flip the switches, but a couple of times I had to shift if forward to adjust the dial. That was easy enough for me. But should you want to site it in a nook or alcove with anything above, then you may find it a bit more fiddly to reach the controls.

From a safety point of view, this model has an auto-shut off function that prevents it from overheating, which gives added peace of mind. It feels sturdy when in place (on my LVT floor), so it doesn't feel like it will easily topple, but as it isn't designed to be fixed to a wall, I'd keep an eye on kids and pets around it as it's quite heavy.

I also appreciated that the unit itself doesn't get hot when the heat is on, staying cool to the touch. The grill where the heat comes out does get warm, and is warm to the touch for a few minutes afterwards.

Running costs

As with any device or appliance that is powered by electricity, how much it costs to run will depend on how much power it uses, how long you use it for and how much you pay for your energy.

For the sake of this review, I'll use the January 2026 energy price cap figure of 27.69p per kilowatt hour as the cost of electricity, which is correct at the time of writing.

If you were to use the VonHaus Electric Stove & Log Store on it's highest power setting for one hour, it would cost you just over 55p. Use the lower power setting, and it'll cost just over 27p. Just use the flame effect lights and it will cost you even less.

With all electric heaters, they are not designed to be used as a primary heat source, so consider them boosts to your central heating rather than a replacement. If you're home is particularly draughty, it's a good idea to address the draughts before you buy this heater so that you can get maximum benefits in the most cost-effective way.

Cleaning and maintenance

Apart from getting a bit dusty and maybe showing the odd fingerprint, there's not a lot of cleaning or maintenance required for this stove heater. A quick dust with a clean cloth is all that I've needed to do so far.

For it's longevity, I make sure to keep liquids away from it, keep the cable tucked away so it's not a trip hazard and check that there's nothing around that could fall on or against it (it's sturdy, so I don't think it would crumple like a piece of paper, but I love it so much I wouldn't want to chance it).

Who should buy the VonHaus Electric Stove & Log Store?

If you want an electric heater that delivers on both the looks and heat front, then I don't think you can go wrong with the Vonhaus Electric Stove & Log Store. Similarly, if you love the look of a log burning stove but can't afford one or it wouldn't be suitable for your home, then this really is the next best thing. You'll get the realistic appearance (especially with the log-store feature) without the hassle or price tag, plus a decent heat output.

This is also a characterful choice for those who live in period homes and where a super sleek modern style heater would stick out like a sore thumb.

However, if you want something you can easily move from room to room, then I don't think this is the option for you. While it is technically portable, the large dimensions mean it's more of a hassle to move around than something like the Dreo Smart Whole Room Heater 714S. It's also not the option if you are after a space-saving model — instead the Morphy Richards HeatFlux Ultra Thin 2kw Ceramic Tower Fan Heater might be more suitable.

Finally, while you could of course pair the VonHaus Electric Stove with a smart plug, if you want something with more smart capabilities, then you could try the Mill WiFi Max 1500W portable heater, which has a similar price point, instead.

Understanding how long an oil-filled radiator will last and how you can maximise it's lifespan is surprisingly important.

After all, if you are looking to buy one of the best oil-filled radiators, it'll feel like a waste to invest in something if it will only last you a couple of years, even if you only use it occasionally. On the other hand, you might feel like you don't want to invest in something if it may not last, which may mean that you end up with an unsuitable model that you feel stuck with for years to come. Worse still, you may end up replacing it with a different model that it turns out you should have bought in the first place.

To help, I asked heating appliance pros how long your oil-filled radiator should last, what kind of maintenance can help it last longer, and how you know when it really is time for a replacement.

What's the lifespan of an oil-filled radiator?

The good news is that an oil-filled radiator is definitely in it for the long haul, lasting more than a decade. That means it's definitely worth shopping wisely.

'Oil-filled radiators last ages,' says Sam Carter, radiator expert at Appliances Direct. 'Most high-quality units have a lifespan of 10-15 years and as they don't have any moving parts, there isn't really any wear and tear happening.'

Alex Litcan, category manager at De'Longhi, agrees: 'For many of our customers, moving house is a more frequent occurrence than replacing their radiator.'

So if you are thinking of investing in an oil-filled radiator, it's worth thinking about opting for a futureproof model. Looking for an option that includes eco modes, digital displays, smart tech or even cable tidies, can help your radiator last as long as it can, and keep your energy usage under control for the duration of it's lifespan at the same time.

Shop oil-filled radiators

What kind of maintenance does it need?

While there's plenty to think about before you buy an oil-filled radiator, make sure you don't underestimate the importance of adequate maintenance. These are the simple maintenance steps you can take to keep your oil-filled radiator working most efficiently for as long as possible:

• Keep it dust-free. Wipe over the fins regularly to prevent dust-build up which can impact how well and evenly your oil-filled radiator heats.
• Avoid dings and dents. Any damage to the heater can affect its efficacy, so take extra care when moving it around your home, or when children or pets are nearby. Make sure nothing can fall on it, and that the cable is tucked out of the way so it's not a trip hazard. Serious damage may also cause a leak, so best avoided.
• Store it properly. 'Always store the unit upright during the summer months to ensure the oil remains settled and ready for its next use,' says Alex.

Do you have to replace the oil in an oil-filled radiator?

You definitely don't need to change the oil in an oil-filled radiator so you can cross that off your maintenance list.

'While you don’t really need to do much to keep an oil-filled radiator in good working order, they are sealed units and the oil inside is designed to last for the lifetime of the heater,' explains Sam.

'Our radiators are permanently sealed for life,' adds Alex. 'We use a high-grade thermodynamic oil specifically engineered for optimal heat dispersion, meaning you never have to worry about the internal mechanics.'

What are the signs you need to replace your oil-filled radiator?

Even if your oil-filled radiator is designed to last for years, it's still worthwhile knowing the signs to look out for that it's finally time to replace it.

• It's no longer heating evenly. 'If the unit has 'cold spots' or provides uneven heat distribution, the oil may no longer be circulating effectively,' explains Alex.
• You've spotted a leak or signs of rust. 'Visible leaks are a clear sign that suggests your oil-filled radiator might need replacing,' adds Sam. 'Look out for oil leaks on the appliance itself or on the floor beneath. Whilst the oil is non-toxic, it can create slip hazards and may be hot to the touch.' Signs of rust may also mean that the exterior is damaged, which could lead to leaks in the not-too-distant future.
• You notice unusual odours. 'Modern oil-filled radiators should be odourless,' says Alex. 'Any persistent, strange smells are a sign that the unit’s integrity may be compromised.'
• It's making strange noises when in use. 'Another sign is persistent gurgling,' continues Sam. 'Whilst the system should be sealed and intact, gurgling noises could mean that air has gotten in, making the device less efficient at heating the room. Unlike with central heating appliances, though, do not attempt to bleed oil-filled radiators.'
• You see signs of physical wear. If any of the controls stop working, then that's a clear sign it's time for a replacement. 'If the wheels or handles become damaged, affecting mobility, it may be safer to upgrade to a new model to ensure stable, secure heating,' concludes Alex.

FAQs

Make sure you understand the difference between an oil-filled radiator and electric heater before you settle on one type over the other. You'll want to be sure you choose the right option for your home and needs.

Electric heaters are nothing new, but with more and more models coming to market boasting a whole host of smart features, there's more choice than ever. But how do you know if a smart appliance like this is the right choice for your home?

If you are going to invest in one of the best electric heaters, then you'll obviously want to make sure it suits your home and budget, but beyond that, choosing one with smart features could help you reduce it's energy consumption and therefore lower its running costs at the same time.

I asked the pros why they thought smart electric heaters were a good idea, which smart features were the most useful, and who these smart features are best suited to. This is what they told me.

Is it worth getting a smart electric heater?

If it's within your budget, then a smart electric heater is definitely worth it, but only if you use it to complement your central heating rather than as a complete substitute. 'Where they work well is heating one room you actually use, rather than turning the whole system on,' explains Patrick Garner, Gas Safe Engineer at Heatable.

While any kind of electric heater can give you a boost of heat where and when you need it, there are an array of smart features you could look out for that make the appliance both easier to use and more energy efficient.

Pros and cons of smart electric heaters

To ultimately decide if a smart electric heater is a worthwhile investment for your specific home and lifestyle, it's a good idea to weigh up the advantages and drawbacks of choosing a smart model over a 'dumb' one.

Pros of a smart electric heater

• Can help reduce energy wastage. 'Instead of being left on for too long or forgotten about, it can be set to come on only when needed and switch itself off once the room reaches the desired temperature,' explains Patrick. 'Used properly, that’s far better than a basic plug-in heater running constantly in the background.' Some smart models will also turn off if they detect an open window, which will prevent the heat you are paying to generate from literally going straight out of the window.
• Can be controlled remotely. 'Smart portable heating appliances are a great option if you want to opt for precision control for your heating remotely,' says Sam Carter, radiator expert at Appliances Direct. 'This means that even if you’re not at home, you can still heat rooms in preparation for your arrival, as well as being able to set a heating schedule to suit your daily routine.'
• More control. Non-smart electric heaters will likely have a dial to control the heat output, but this means you don't really have any idea what temperature it's set at, and how much energy it's using. Smart models can allow you to set very specific temperatures, which you can repeat or adjust as and when you need to.
• Added convenience. Being able to control your electric heater via your phone or, in some cases Amazon Alexa or Google Home will be a popular benefit for those in busy households or for those with any mobility or dexterity issues.

Cons of smart electric heaters

• They're more expensive. You could pick up a 'dumb' electric heater that is a simple 'plug-in and go' option for less than £15, like this Abode Electric Fan Heater that you can get from Amazon for £12.99, but you'll need to pay more if you want smart features. In the case of the Dyson Hot+Cool HF1 Remote Link Pre-heat Heater and Cooling Fan, which boasts intelligent control, it's currently available at John Lewis for £349.99.
• Smart features can be fiddly to get to grips with. Setting up schedules for your electric heater can be a complex process, made harder if the smart controls don't feel intuitive.
• You could end up paying to smart features you don't actually use. If you only plan on using your electric heater occasionally for a quick burst of heat before your central heating comes on, then you might not need the scheduling capabilities that can come with smart appliances.

What particular smart features should you look out for?

When it comes to particular smart features that are worth looking out for, there are a few that the experts say are worth looking out for.

'The remote access control is always a very useful smart feature, as are the thermostat timers and the automatic switch off in case of tipping over,' explains appliance expert Jon Chatt, who works with Daewoo Electricals.

Energy monitoring is another key feature to look out for, according to Patrick: 'If the heater shows how much energy it’s using, that’s a real bonus - it makes it much easier for households to keep an eye on what it’s actually costing to run.' Look too for models where the heater will automatically switch to a lower power mode when your selected temperature is reached.

'Geofencing for example is a great feature to look for, as it uses your phone location to turn your heating on and off when you're a certain distance away from home,' says Sam Carter. 'This ultimately helps automate the entire heating process, leaving you free to forget about your heating and get on with your day.

'Open Window Detection is also a particularly game changing feature to opt for,' he adds. 'These smart sensors can detect a sudden drop in temperature (like when a door or window is left open), and automatically pause the unit - so you're not pouring heat out of your house for no reason!'

FAQs

Who is a smart electric heater best suited to?

There are specific lifestyles and circumstances that may find a smart electric heater useful.

If you find yourself home alone during the day on a regular basis, whether you are working from home, work shifts or are retired, then a smart electric heater might be particular beneficial for you. You can heat the room you are in instead of the whole house. 'If you work at home often, a crucial tip is to set your smart heater to have your office up to temperature before you start working, while keeping the rest of the house at a lower temperature,' says Sam Carter.

'In addition - renters, who may not be able to make changes to the existing heating system put in by their landlords, will also find smart portable heating appliances particularly useful, as a key way to keep energy bills under control.'

Moreover, if you find yourself concerned about your energy bills over winter, and want to supplement your central heating with a secondary source, then the energy saving benefits of a smart model will help you use your electric heater more efficiently.

If you live in an older UK property, you’ll know that upgrading your heating can feel daunting. Between insulation requirements, space constraints, and the complexity of older pipework, some options can seem out of reach. That’s why hybrid heating systems, now the subject of new trial findings from Worcester Bosch*, are gaining attention as a practical choice for homeowners who want a lower carbon* solution without the disruption of major home upgrades that could be required for, say, a heat pump.

A hybrid system works by letting the heat pump handle most day-to-day heating, while the boiler steps in only when needed. For many households, that means fewer compromises: the efficiency benefits of a heat pump, with the reassurance of a boiler during the coldest periods or when demand is higher.

One reason hybrid systems are gaining attention is installation flexibility. A hybrid heating setup can often work with existing radiators and pipework, and doesn't always require a hot water tank. This can make it easier to fit into older housing stock - properties that can be more challenging to adapt for a full heat-pump-only system.

Worcester Bosch recently carried out a trial to explore how hybrid systems perform in real-world conditions. While every home is different, the findings offer useful insight into what homeowners might expect. The trial found that hybrid systems could see energy bill savings of around £79 a year when compared with a gas-only boiler**, and that properties with a hybrid system could improve their Energy Performance Certificate rating. For example, from a D to a C***.

For homeowners weighing up future heating options – particularly those in older homes where a heat-pump-only installation isn’t straightforward – hybrid systems may be worth considering. They don’t demand major alterations, and the new trial data suggests they can offer reliable comfort while supporting lower carbon* performance.

If you’re curious about how hybrid systems work or whether they could suit your property, visit Worcester Bosch today.

Full trial data and findings can be found here.

• *A heat pump when running emits less carbon dioxide than a system run on solely a gas or oil boiler. A hybrid heat pump system when running emits less carbon dioxide than a system run on solely a gas or oil boiler.
• ** Analysis conducted based on Cosy Octopus Tariffs (Oct. 2025). Assumed unit from Octopus: (gas: 6.29 p/kWh), Time of Use Electricity Tariff based on Cosy Octopus (weighted average: 21.07p/kWh). Average boiler efficiency: 85%
• *** Analysis conducted with RdSAP 9.94
• **** Assumed CO2 emissions per usage of kWh of electricity (0.207 kg CO2e/kWh) and gas (0.183 kg CO2e/kWh).

Electric heaters can be a great way to give a room a blast of heat quickly and efficiently and are beloved of many homeowners who work from home and really feel the chill in winter (myself included).

That said, even the best electric heaters need to be positioned correctly if you want to get the very most out of them – they obviously use electricity to run and will therefore be adding to your energy bills so you want to make sure you are using them most efficiently and aren't wasting any of the heat they emit.

To help ensure you know the very best spots around the house and in a room to place your electric heater, I reached out to the experts for their advice – here's what they had to say.

Where is the best place to put an electric heater for most effective heat distribution?

There are lots of different types of electric heater, from simple and compact fan heaters to those that are designed to be mounted on the wall. But where is the best place for them for an effective spread of heat?

'Ideally you want to put your electric heater somewhere it can deal with cold air before it spreads out and where warm air can move freely around the room,' advises Kevin Hayes, managing director at Centreline Fires. 'In most homes that means on or at least near an external wall or under a window, as that’s where heat loss is greatest. If you’re using a fixed electric radiator or panel heater, that positioning helps balance the room temperature properly.'

'The best place for most heaters is under your window, attacking the cold where it enters the room,' adds Sam Carter, radiator expert and eCommerce product trader at Appliances Direct. 'This creates rising air that blocks cold drafts and circulates the warm air into the centre of the room.'

'With portable heaters its more about the airflow,' continues Kevin. 'They need to be out in the open, not shoved behind furniture or tucked into a corner. If the warm air can’t circulate you’ll end up with a hot spot near the heater and a cold room everywhere else.'

Does the size of your electric heater matter?

In addition to its positioning, an electric heater needs to be correctly sized to the room – just as with radiators, there is no point just looking for the cheapest electric heater to run then specifying one that is too big or small for the room, or that offers a heat output that will be all wrong for your space.

'A small fan heater will never really properly heat a large living room no matter where you put it, and an oversized heater in a small room can be uncomfortable and inefficient,' points out Kevin Hayes. 'Matching the heater's output to the room and placing it sensibly is just as important as the heater itself.'

'The appliance must be matched to the space,' explains Christine Matthews, heating appliance expert at Gr8Fires. 'A small fan heater is a tactical solution for personal warmth but lacks the output or distribution for a whole room. For sustained, ambient heat in a living area, you need a fixed solution with sufficient kilowatt (kW) output for the room's volume. This is where properly specified electric fires or stoves beat portable heaters as they're sized for the space and placed for optimal, permanent performance, not temporary convenience.'

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Can you put an electric heater on carpet?

Safety should be paramount when using any kind of electrical appliance, but in the case of those that produce heat, it is more important than ever.

'I wouldn’t recommend putting an electric heater on carpet,' warns Kevin Hayes. 'Most electric heaters need a firm and level surface. Carpet can make them unstable and can restrict airflow underneath which can cause it to just overheat. There’s also the very obvious fire risk if the heater gets too hot and is in direct contact with carpet. If you are using a portable heater, it should always be on a solid, non-flammable surface with plenty of space round it.'

'Some heaters are safe on carpeted areas as the base is designed not to get hot enough to ignite fabric,' points out Sam Carter. 'However, fan heaters are a different story – always place them on hard floors.'

Should you put an electric heater in the bathroom?

It is quite understandable why homeowners might want a quick blast of heat in the bathroom – after all, you spend much of the time in this room in a state of undress. However, is an electric heater a safe option or are you better off choosing a radiator for the bathroom instead?

'There is a big difference between heaters made for bathrooms vs a portable one you would use in a bedroom or lounge and the two shouldn’t be confused,' says Kevin Hayes. 'Portable heaters should never be used in a bathroom – full stop. The risk from water and moisture is just too high.

'Bathrooms can have electric heating but it needs to be purpose designed and properly installed,' continues Kevin. 'Fixed electric towel rails and bathroom-rated heaters are made specifically for that environment and must meet the correct safety ratings and be installed in the right position by a qualified electrician.'

'For guaranteed safety you should choose a heater marked 'bathroom safe' with an IP24 water-resistance rating,' adds Sam Carter.

FAQs

Should a fan heater be placed in the centre of the room?

It makes sense to place your electric fan heater somewhere where the heat it is producing can be evenly distributed. However, is popping it slap bang in the middle of the room really a good idea?

'For a permanent fixture such as an electric stove, we always recommend a wall in a central location,' says Christine Matthews. 'Avoid tucking it into a tight alcove, if possible, as this can restrict airflow and create a 'hot spot' while leaving the rest of the room cold.

'For a freestanding electric heater or stove, you have more flexibility,' continues Christine. 'In a large room, such as an open plan kitchen, you might centre it or put it at an angle in the corner.'

If you have chosen an oil-filled heater to help warm up your home, make sure you understand how to use an oil-filled radiator more efficiently before just plugging it in and walking away – you'll be glad you did once your energy bills arrive.