My old house is a bit of an anomaly – no matter what the season it manages to stay a good few degrees colder inside than it is out. In the cooler months, even with the central heating running at full pelt, it never actually feels properly warm and, in reality, the only way to stave off the cold is to actually lean up against a radiator, stand directly in front of the open fire or, quite simply, to layer up on the knitwear.

While I realise that this is largely due to our house being draughty and rather poorly insulated, I have a sneaky suspicion that our radiators may also be to blame – they just don't seem to be doing the job they're supposed to do.

With winter once again lurking around the corner, I'm keen to find out if there is a way of getting more out of our radiators – are we to blame for them not heating the house as we'd like, or are they at fault? I put it to the experts and they explained that it could be due to a number of issues that need resolving – which I'm sharing here, in case you are having the same problem.

1. They probably need a good clean

Cleaning the house is actually something I quite enjoy, but I'll hold my hands up and admit that there are definitely certain areas that get left out of the weekly once-over – under the beds, behind the sofas and, yes, the radiators.

According to Martin Garbutt, head of technical governance at home services platform Ding, cleaning the radiators should be the first task I tackle ahead of turning on the central heating for the first time. 'After months without use, your radiators may benefit from a little attention and care. Not only can dust affect the air quality in a room, but it can also reduce a radiator's efficiency by up to 10%.

'To remove any excess dust and debris that has built up inside the radiator, start by turning it off and allowing it to cool,' continues Martin. 'Take a hairdryer or use a narrow vacuum nozzle to blow or suck dust from inside the radiator fins. You can place a damp towel underneath to catch any falling material.

'For a deeper clean, use warm water mixed with a small amount of dish soap or white vinegar,' adds Martin. 'Wipe the exterior with a microfiber cloth, and use a long-handled brush to reach narrow or awkward areas.'

2. Bleeding the radiators is overdue

If, like me, you have noticed some of your radiators not heating up, the task of bleeding them should definitely be on your to-do list before you begin to rely on them to keep your house warm this winter.

Ian Palmer-Smith, appliance repair expert at Domestic & General, explains the importance of bleeding radiators ahead of the cooler seasons and the signs that the job needs doing. 'If your radiator feels cold at the top and hot at the bottom, this means there is trapped air inside of it that is preventing hot water from circulating – this means it needs bleeding. As well as trapped air, a noisy radiator that is making gurgling and banging noises can also be a tell-tale sign that it needs bleeding. As a part of standard maintenance, you should bleed your radiators at least once a year.'

If, once you have bled the radiators, the issue persists, Ant Langston, bathroom and heating expert at HeatandPlumb.com, has another trick to try. 'If some radiators don't get as warm as others, the bleeding has been done and the valves are set how you want them, you could have a balancing issue. On the opposite end to the thermostatic valve, you have what's known as a lockshield valve. Adjusting this slightly evens the flow out, so all the radiators in the house get an even heat rather than just the ones closer to the boiler.'

3. They're in the wrong place

I am painfully aware that many of our radiators are in totally the wrong place – mainly because I wanted to keep them hidden from view. Because they are all now tucked behind doors, beneath shelves and hidden by coats hanging from pegs, they just can't do their job. I would have been better off looking at ways to make radiators look more attractive rather than trying to simply hide them.

'It’s so important not to block radiators with large pieces of furniture like wardrobes or drawers, as this can trap the heat and cause poor heat circulation around the room,' explains Martin Garbutt.

Martin goes on to explain that as well as blocking heat from entering a room, positioning your radiators too close to certain piece of furniture can also cause further issues. 'If your bed or sofa blocks the room's radiator, the heat creates a pocket of dry, hot air right over your face, which can contribute to dehydration and things like disrupted sleep patterns.'

4. I'm not using our thermostat correctly

I'm not sure I have ever totally got to grips with our thermostat. We have thermostatic radiator valves on each radiator and a single wireless thermostat which I have never got around to programming properly meaning I just turn it on and off as needed – hardly the most efficient way to use central heating. It turns out I am making several thermostat mistakes at present.

'An easy way to burn money is by cranking the thermostatic radiator valve up to the maximum, thinking it'll heat the room faster,' warns Ant Langston. 'What this actually does is burn more energy without speeding up the process at all. The key to saving energy in the home here is to keep it at one setting and leave it to do its job.

'The same thinking applies to the main thermostat on the wall,' continues Ant. 'Try to keep the house at one comfortable temperature rather than turning it up, especially in an older or draughtier home, since that puts more strain on the boiler and ends up costing more to run.'

5. Covering them with wet washing is a bad idea

As well as many of our radiators being badly positioned, we are also guilty of stopping them from heating the room by using them to get our wet laundry dry once the washing line outdoors has been put away for the winter.

Chris Jessop, group customer relationships director at Ideal Heating, explains why this is such a bad idea. 'One of the most common mistakes I see is using radiators to dry clothes and towels. Covering a radiator restricts the flow of warm air into the room, while the moisture released from wet laundry can increase humidity and contribute to condensation on windows. Keep radiators uncovered and leave space around them so heat can circulate effectively.

So, how does Chris suggest we get our clothes dry in winter instead? 'Place clothes and towels on a drying rack in a well-ventilated room, leaving space between each item so air can circulate. Opening a window briefly, or using an extractor fan or dehumidifier, can help moisture escape and speed up drying. A heated airer is also a great alternative to drying clothes on a radiator.'

Shop winter clothes drying essentials

FAQs

Can a smart thermostat help you get more from your radiators?

I have been wondering whether we should switch to smart heating to help make more of our central heating.

Martin Garbutt explained to me that, if I do make the swap, it is important to understand how to maximise the system. 'Start by making sure your smart thermostat is properly connected to both your boiler and your Wi-Fi, as this allows you to monitor and control your heating remotely.

'Once connected, set a schedule in the app that reflects your actual routine rather than relying on default settings; this will help the built-in sensors and algorithms accurately decide when to turn the heating off or maintain your chosen comfort level,' continues Martin. 'From there, give the thermostat time to learn your habits. Many smart thermostats include learning features such as when you usually wake up, go out, or come home, and will start adjusting the temperature automatically to match.'

Radiators stopped working altogether? Don't panic, there is often a simple fix that could get them up and running again. Start by checking your boiler pressure – if it's too low your radiators will struggle to heat up properly.

It is fast getting towards that time of year when, for many households (my own included), tensions break out about the use of the central heating – largely concerning when it can feasibly be turned on for the first time, how long it should be left on for during the day, and when it actually isn't needed.

As from 1st October 2026 the Ofgem Energy Price Cap increased by 3.6%, which equates to an average additional £60 a year to most typical household bills. While this might not sound like a huge increase, with pretty much everything else getting more and more expensive, it is definitely one most people could do without, meaning looking for ways to save energy at home has become more important than ever. There's another increase predicted for January 2027 too.

If anyone knows a thing or two about keeping a house warm and cosy in cold weather, without constantly having the central heating blasting away, it is the Scandinavians – and, luckily for you, I've been in touch with a couple of perfectly-placed experts to get all their secrets for staying nice and toasty in the face of freezing temperatures.

What are Scandinavian winters like?

Before getting stuck into how the Scandinavians keep a house warm in winter without relying on central heating alone, it is useful to look into quite what makes them experts in the field – namely their long, cold winters.

Niki Brantmark, author of the blog My Scandinavian Home, is a Londoner-turned-Scandinavian, who now lives in Malmö with her Swedish husband and three children. She explains what winters are like. 'Scandinavia is a vast region, stretching from the south right up into the Arctic Circle, so the climate varies enormously depending on where you live. Even here in the south, winters can feel bitterly cold, particularly when you factor in the wind chill. It is the kind of cold that really drives you indoors. Further north, of course, conditions can be far more extreme, with deep snow and temperatures well below zero. While skiing in Hafjell, Norway last year, I experienced -30°C!

'The other thing is that Scandinavian winters are not only cold, but very long and very dark,' continues Niki. 'The days become incredibly short, particularly the further north you travel, and winter can feel as though it stretches on for months. I think that is one of the reasons Scandinavian homes become so important during this time of year. You need to create an environment that helps you not just survive winter, but endure it comfortably and embrace it.'

1. They prioritise good insulation

One of the most important things to Scandinavians is ensuring that, rather than trying to beat the cold once it is inside their homes, they keep it out in the first place – and this means ensuring spaces enjoy high levels of insulation.

Swedish-based political scientist, author and international affairs expert Daniel Schatz explains how they approach the task of reducing heat loss. 'Swedish winters are long, dark and cold, with temperatures frequently below freezing and considerably colder conditions in the north. But one thing that often surprises British visitors is that Swedish homes generally feel very warm inside.

'The key difference is that Swedes tend to focus on keeping the home warm rather than constantly finding ways to keep the individual warm,' continues Daniel. 'Swedish houses and apartments are generally well insulated, with double or triple-glazed windows, good draught-proofing and efficient heating systems. Increasingly, heat pumps are used in houses too.

'The Scandinavian approach isn’t primarily about clever products for surviving a cold house,' adds Daniel. 'It is about designing and insulating homes so that they retain heat efficiently in the first place. A well-insulated home requires less energy to remain comfortable, so keeping warm and reducing energy consumption do not necessarily have to be competing objectives.'

2. Draught-proofing is non-negotiable

Draughts really are the enemy when it comes to keeping energy bills lower and your house warmer – running your central heating in a bid to keep warm while allowing all that lovely heat to escape out and cold air to seep in is madness.

The Scandinavians take draught-proofing seriously, as Niki Brantmark explains. 'Doors and windows are generally expected to seal properly, and worn seals or gaps are dealt with rather than simply turning the heating up.

'This is a particularly easy and relatively inexpensive fix – just check the seals around windows and doors,' continues Niki. 'Replacing windows can be incredibly costly, but replacing worn weatherstripping or sealing strips and dealing with obvious draughts is much more achievable. A traditional draught excluder at the bottom of a door can help too.'

Shop draught-proofing essentials

3. Windows and doors stay shut

While here in the UK we have all been embracing the concept of house burping in order to give our homes a short, sharp burst of fresh air and reduce the risk of mould and damp, according to Niki Brantmark, the Scandinavians are firm believers that windows and doors should stay closed during the winter. 'Something I noticed very quickly after moving to Scandinavia is how conscious people are of keeping the heat inside the house.

'In the UK, it is quite common to have a window slightly open when you sleep, even in winter, or to stand chatting in an open doorway saying goodbye to guests. That is much less common here during the colder months,' continues Niki. 'Scandinavian homes are generally very well insulated and designed to retain heat, so you become surprisingly conscious of letting warm air escape unnecessarily.

'I remember being slightly horrified the first time my husband practically snapped the front door shut the moment our guests had stepped outside. There was no long goodbye lingering in the doorway,' adds Niki. 'He explained that when it is bitterly cold outside, even having the door open for a short time lets a surprising amount of warmth escape, and that warmth then needs to be replaced. So winter goodbyes tend to be rather efficient!'

4. Lighting is used to create a sense of warmth

A sense of warmth within the home doesn't just come from how it feels to physically spend time in, but also from the ambience it gives off – and this is something that the Scandinavians are very aware of during the chilly, darker months – addressing it largely through their lighting schemes.

'Warmth here is not only about the physical temperature of a room. It is also about how a space makes you feel. The Danish idea of hygge, Swedish mys or Norwegian kos are all incredibly important during winter,' explains Niki Brantmark. 'Lighting is a huge part of this. You will rarely find a Scandinavian sitting room illuminated solely by one stark overhead light. Instead, there will usually be several lamps dotted around the room at different heights, creating little pools of warm, golden light and bringing life to even the darkest corner.

'Candlelight is important too,' reveals Niki. 'When there is so little natural daylight, candles bring a wonderful flickering warmth into the home. You will see everything from tea lights and chunky pillar candles to tapered candles and oil lamps, often even in guest bathrooms. Lamps are also commonly placed in windows, which creates a lovely welcoming glow when you arrive home on a dark winter evening.'

5. Interiors are designed to keep things cosy

The approach the Scandinavians take towards their home decor helps with keeping things cosy too, with a strong focus on using plenty of layers of snug materials throughout.

'People often adapt their interiors accordingly. Out come the sheepskins, wool blankets, extra cushions and heavier textiles, creating somewhere you genuinely want to curl up for the evening,' says Niki Brantmark. 'And because shoes are generally left at the door in Scandinavian homes, warm feet are essential. Slippers and thick knitted wool socks are winter staples. I have even visited homes where there is a basket of cosy socks or slippers by the entrance for guests.

'Natural materials such as wool are particularly effective in winter because wool fibres trap tiny pockets of air, creating insulation between your body and the colder air around you,' continues Niki. 'It also helps regulate temperature and can absorb moisture without immediately feeling damp, which is why wool works so beautifully for blankets, slippers, socks and sheepskins. Layering textiles has a similar effect in the home. Rugs soften cold floors, and blankets and cushions make it easy to keep yourself warm without necessarily turning the heating up further.'

Shop cosy interior must-haves

6. Ventilation is a key part of a comfortable Scandi home

While reducing heat loss by addressing draughts and insulation is important in colder climates, ventilation remains an important part of keeping a home comfortable.

'The aim is not to seal a home completely, but to prevent unwanted draughts while still allowing fresh air to circulate,' explains Niki Brantmark. 'This is particularly important in winter when we spend so much time indoors, and especially when burning candles. Many Scandinavian homes are designed with controlled ventilation in mind, so you can retain warmth while still maintaining good air quality.

'Good ventilation helps prevent a home from feeling stale or damp and allows fresh air to circulate without necessarily leaving a window open for hours at a time. In a well-designed home, insulation and ventilation should work together rather than against each other,' adds Niki. 'Improving ventilation can be as simple as making sure existing vents are clear, using extractor fans properly in kitchens and bathrooms, and briefly airing rooms rather than leaving windows open for long periods. The aim is to eliminate unwanted draughts, not fresh air altogether.'

7. Winter is seen as something to embrace

Finally, rather than bemoaning the cold and the dark, the Scandinavians are far more likely to lean into it and, in doing so, strive to make their homes feel like a great big hug – so what are their secrets to a cosy home?

'There is a mindset of embracing winter rather than constantly fighting against it. Winter becomes a time to slow down, rest and recuperate, whereas summer tends to be about being outdoors and making the most of the long days,' explains Nikki Brantmark. 'The emotional aspect is important. Warm, low-level lighting, candles, tactile materials and comfortable places to sit completely change how you perceive a dark winter evening. Instead of the darkness feeling bleak, it gives you the opportunity to create a cosy, relaxing atmosphere.

'In my experience, the Scandinavian home really comes into its own in winter. We spend so much more time indoors than we do during the summer, so there is a real focus on transforming the home into an incredibly cosy, comfortable and inviting space. That is really at the heart of the Scandinavian approach,' adds Niki. 'Rather than wishing winter away, you create an environment that makes you really enjoy being indoors.'

FAQs

What are the easiest ways to keep warm without central heating?

There are so many useful techniques to steal from the Scandinavians when it comes to keeping warm at home naturally.

'Investing in a good-quality wool blanket is probably one of the easiest places to start. Wool is naturally insulating, breathable and incredibly durable, so a beautiful blanket can last for years. Wool rugs are another great investment, particularly if you have wooden, tiled or stone floors, as they add both physical warmth and softness,' advises Niki Brantmark. 'I am also a huge fan of sheepskins. They are wonderfully warm and can be draped over an armchair, dining chair, bench or the end of a bed.

'On the practical side, draught excluders, sealing strips for windows and doors, thermal curtains and blinds are all simple things worth looking into, particularly in an older home,' adds Niki.

'There are also smaller habits,' picks up Daniel Schatz. 'Thick curtains, rugs and plenty of lamps and candles make rooms feel warmer and more comfortable during the dark winter months.'

While there is bound to come a time when you'll have to turn up the thermostat, it is still work looking at all the ways to delay turning on your central heating first – you'll be pleased you did when the energy bills come through.

With nights drawing in and temperatures dropping, I am all for trying an energy-saving hack to keep my bills under control. But does closing curtains early actually save energy at home?

This is a crucial question to answer, especially considering the fact that energy prices rose by 4% in October and are predicted to rise by anywhere between 16 and 25% (depending on the predictions you look at) come January.

Martin Lewis has long advised people to close their curtains as soon as the sun goes down but if you're still waiting to be convinced of the impact it can have on your energy usage, I've started doing it again in my home over the last week, and this is what happened.

Does closing your curtains early save energy?

Yes, closing your curtains early can save energy. It can help to block draughts and reduce heat loss through your home's glazing. This in turn leaves your home feeling warmer, meaning you're less likely to pop your central heating on for an extra hour or two in the evening or use an electric heater or oil-filled radiator for longer than necessary.

Better still, this passive energy-saving method doesn't cost a penny!

'Closing your curtains at dusk is a simple way to help keep your home warm as temperatures drop,' says Stuart Middleton, So Energy's Consumer Energy Expert. 'Windows can be a source of heat loss, so drawing your curtains creates an additional layer of insulation that helps slow the rate at which heat escapes. Thick, well-fitting or thermally lined curtains can be particularly effective.

'The amount of energy you could save will depend on your windows, the type of curtains you have and how well insulated your home is, so it’s difficult to put an exact figure on the savings from this habit alone. However, it’s a simple, low-cost change that can help keep your home comfortable during the colder months without relying as heavily on your heating.'

And I can confirm this hack definitely works. I've long adopted this curtain-closing strategy, and I can definitely feel that my house feels warmer for longer in the evening, without needing to resort to whacking the heating on for another hour.

I measured the temperature in front of my closed curtains and behind them, and found a 2°C difference once the sun had gone down, especially in the rooms where I have thermal curtains. Had my curtains been open, the whole room would have been considerably cooler.

What time should you close your curtains to save energy?

For this hack to work most effectively, you need to close your curtains just before it gets dark. Today, for example, the sun is due to set at 4.52pm where I live, so I set myself a reminder to close my curtains at about 4.30pm. This may get earlier as we get deeper in to winter, so it's worth checking the weather app on your phone for the sunset time.

By closing curtains at this point, you get maximum benefit from any solar gain during the daylight hours, and keep the heat in once the sun goes down and temperatures plummet.

If you tend to be home at this time of day, then setting a reminder on your phone is a pretty simple way to remember to nip round and close the curtains at the optimum time. But what if you aren't?

Fortunately, there is a way to automate your curtain closing. Using a device like the SwitchBot Curtain 3 (£99.99) will allow you to set up schedules to open and close your curtains at the exact time you want, whether you are home or not.

Ideal Home's Digital Editor Becky has been using hers for the last couple of months: 'I added the SwitchBot Curtain 3 to my living room curtains a few months ago and used the schedule function to help control the temperature in my home. In summer, I scheduled them to open when it was cooler and close during the hottest parts of the day. Now for autumn and winter, I've adjusted the schedule so that they close as soon as it gets dark at night to keep the cold out and ensure I always come home to a cosy space.'

Does the type of window treatment make a difference?

In my experience, the kind of window treatment you have makes a big difference to how warm your room remains when the curtains have been closed.

In my home I have a mix of thermal curtains and blinds, fabric or wooden blinds, and standard curtains and I have found there is a marked difference in how well they each keep the heat in.

For me, the best of the bunch by a long shot is my thermal curtains and blinds, followed by my wooden blinds, with my non-thermal curtains and fabric blinds coming in last place. Even though we're not in the depths of winter yet, there was a 2°C difference in front and behind my thermal curtains and blinds, just under a degree difference in front of and behind my wooden blinds, and half a degree in front of and behind my standard curtains.

Fortunately in the rooms I spend the most time, I have these Berlin blackout and thermal curtains from Dunelm (from £15), but I will definitely be upgrading the standard curtains in my guest room before Christmas!

British Gas has warned of mass boiler breakdowns as the cold weather sets in people turn their central heating on for the first time in months. It's been reported that the energy supplier estimated that 34,000 households could be left without heating and hot water, right as temperatures plummet.

Despite a mild start to autumn, you might have adopted a few habits over the last couple of weeks to delay turning on your central heating. With the end of October (and the clock change) fast approaching, most households will decide it's time to use their heating for the first time since the early spring.

But unfortunately, this is the exact time that many will discover that their boiler isn't working, leading to a surge in calls for urgent repairs. 'The first really cold day of the year is often when people discover there's a problem with their boiler,' says Sheena Anker, Engineer at British Gas. 'Unfortunately, that's also when demand for repairs starts to rise.'

If you haven't tried your central heating yet, and you want to limit your chance of being one of the thousands of homes at risk of a boiler breakdown, there are a few things you should do right now.

1. Check your boiler pressure

While there are a few signs your boiler is about to stop working, not all of them can be rectified on a DIY basis. But one that can is boiler pressure.

If your boiler seems to be working, but your house just isn't warming up, it may be that the boiler pressure is too low (a reading of between 1-2 bar is the sweet spot). When it comes to what to do if your boiler pressure is too low, the good news is it's relatively simple, provided you haven't seen any signs of leakage around radiators, pipes and valves. If you spot this, you will need professional help before you try to repressurise your boiler.

But if you don't see any signs of leaks, and you follow the instructions in your boiler manual, you can locate the filling loop and slowly open the valves to introduce more water into the system. Once the pressure is in the sweet spot you can close the valves.

2. Bleed your radiators

If you can feel your radiators getting warm at the bottom but their cold at the top, you likely just need to release trapped air from the system to get your home feeling warm again.

Make sure you turn your heating off before you bleed your radiators, and bleed them in the correct order for the best results.

This is what you'll need to bleed your radiators in the most mess-free way possible:

‘You’ll know a radiator has been bled properly when water flows out in a steady stream without any hissing or spluttering,’ says Nick Duggan, Managing Director at The Radiator Centre. ‘After bleeding, the radiator should heat evenly from top to bottom, and any cold patches at the top should disappear. It’s also worth checking your boiler pressure afterwards, if the pressure is stable and the radiator is heating well, you’ve done it right.’

3. Keep the heat you do have in

If you do find that you have a problem with your heating that requires a professional, then it's important you keep as much heat in your home as possible so you can stay warm until it's fixed.

Close windows, keep internal doors closed and block any draughts around windows, doors and chimneys to limit heat loss.

If you do find yourself without heat for a short time, little things like leaving your oven door open after you've cooked will give you a little burst of heat when you need it.

4. Have an electric heater on hand

You might not think you need an electric heater or oil-filled radiator, but as someone whose boiler packed up a couple of years ago during a very cold February, I definitely wish I'd had one to hand when I was wearing all the layers to try and stay warm.

Having something suitably powered to heat the rooms you use most will be well worth the money if it gives you peace of mind that you won't have to sit there freezing while you wait for your boiler to get repaired.

Something light and compact, like the Dreo Atom 316 electric heater will be ideal for moving around your home with you, while if you are looking to heat a larger space over a longer period, the De'Longhi Dragon 4 oil-filled radiator can heat spaces up to 50m2, while the Vonhaus 2500w 11 fin oil-filled radiator will warm rooms up to 30m2 and carry on kicking out heat for up to an hour after being turned off.

5. Add a boiler service reminder to your calendar

To avoid emergency call outs, right when you need your heating needs to be in good working order, it's a good idea to get it serviced well before you actually need it.

You should only need your boiler serviced once a year, and the ideal time is either the spring or later summer/early autumn. Although if you experience any of the signs your boiler needs servicing, it's best to call the plumber sooner rather than later. At this time, your requirement for a service won't be fighting with the throngs of people needing a plumber because their boiler has stopped working altogether.

As well avoiding boiler breakdowns, you can also avoid unexpectedly costly repairs.

With cooler temperatures taking hold, now is the time to ensure you are set up to stay comfortable warm throughout the autumn and winter months.

Whether or not you have put your central heating on yet, having one of the best oil-filled radiators available can help keep you warm in the room you are in, especially when you don't want to heat your whole home unnecessarily.

I've recently been testing the Morphy Richards HeatFlux 2.5kW digital oil-filled radiator in my own home. This is how it fared in our tests and whether I ultimately think it's worth your money.

In a nutshell

The Morphy Richards HeatFlux 2.5kw Digital Oil Filled Radiator is designed to heat medium to large rooms up to 25m2. It offers three different heat settings, low, medium and high, as well as an eco mode, with a customisable thermostat from 5-30°C, giving you complete control over your comfort levels.

It's also got a LED display, with touch buttons, plus a remote control for easy operation.

Available in both grey and white, it has an RRP of £99.99.

How I tested

Specification

• Type of heater: Oil-filled radiator
• RRP: £99.99
• Weight: 9.9kg
• Dimensions: (W x H x D): 46.4 x 63 x 24.5cm
• Wattage: 2500W
• Running costs per hour: 26-66p/kWh
• Room size suitability: Up to 25m2
• Smart features? None
• Dual functionality? None
• Timer? Yes
• Remote control? Yes

Unboxing, setting up and first impressions

It took me less than 5 minutes to get from opening the cardboard box to the Morphy Richards HeatFlux 2.5kW Digital Oil-Filled Radiator plugged in and ready to use.

While it arrived in largely cardboard packaging, there is a recyclable plastic bag and some polystyrene in the mix.

In the box, you get the radiator itself, an instruction manual, the remote control as well as two sets of wheels and the bolts needed to attach them.

While I've found it a bit fiddly to attach the wheels to other oil-filled radiators I've tried, fixing the wheels to this Morphy Richards model was a doddle. Firstly, the U-bolt needed is already fitted to the radiator itself, which means it stays in place, and frees your hands up to hold one of the wheel bases steady while you attach the bolts. For the second wheel base, there are predrilled holes and all you need to do is line up the holes on the wheel base, then attach the screws.

At 9.9kgs, it's not the lightest to turn upside down to fix the wheels in place, and then turn right way up again, but I did find it manageable.

I was a bit surprised that the battery for the remote control wasn't included. It's a flat circular battery that I don't tend to have spare versions of lying around the house, but fortunately, I have reviewed other Morphy Richards products with remove controls with the same battery so I was able to swap them over. Alternatively, you could buy the CR2025 batteries for a couple of pounds from Amazon.

In terms of appearance, the Morphy Richards HeatFlux 2.5kW digital oil-filled radiator looks more modern than other oil-filled radiators on the market, with it's LED digital display screen, and stylish grey colourway.

What’s it like to use?

My first thought when using the Morphy Richards HeatFlux 2.5kW digital oil-filled radiator was just how user friendly it is. The touch buttons on the LED display are clear and easy to press (and a beep sounds even time a press is registered so it's simple to tell you've pressed the touch button correctly, although you can turn this off if it'd bug you).

I found it pretty intuitive to use, but the instructions in the manual are also clear to follow. I also liked how you can achieve exactly the same functionality with the remote control as you can with the on-board controls.

The display clearly illustrates which mode you are in, whether it's low, medium, high heat mode or on the eco setting, which adjusts the power based on your target temperature and the ambient temperature in the room.

First up, I used it in my living room, that is around 18m2 in size, in high heat mode and found that I could feel the heat from about 2.5m away after 10 minutes or so. My thermostat also measured that the ambient temperature in the room had risen by almost a whole degree in those first 10 minutes. After an hour, it had risen by about 3.5°C, and after two hours, it was 5.2°C warmer than the starting temperature.

When I used it in my larger kitchen diner, that measures around 22m2, it did take a little longer to warm up, raising the ambient temperature by 2°C in two hours. However, I could feel the cold edge being take off the room, wherever I stood in it, after about 30 minutes.

A feature I particularly liked was the On/Off timer functionality. It was so easy! A couple of presses on the remote and I could set the radiator to turn on or off after 1-24 hours. Compared to those oil-filled radiators that have physical dials with tiny little plastic notches that represent 15 minute segments, this was a breeze, and definitely much more my preferred way to set a timer.

Once turned off, the radiator carried on kicking out heat for about 15 minutes, which is nice, but it's not quite as impressive as some other oil-filled radiators we've tested.

In terms of noise, it's virtually silent. There was a bit of a crackling sound for a couple of minutes the very first time I used it, which the instruction manual told me was completely normal. But after those first few minutes, I couldn't hear anything at all. And it didn't happen on subsequent uses.

When it comes to manoeuvrability, the wheels glided smoothly across both my wooden floor and my thicker rug so it required very little effort to move around. But I'd definitely wait until it's cool to move it about. After a couple of hours use, the handle gets quite hot, so while you could make minor adjustments to the positioning, I'd wait until it's cooled down before trying to move it.

As with all oil-filled radiators, they do tend to be heavier than some of the best electric heaters around, so this probably isn't a heater I'd want to be lugging up and down stairs on a regular basis. Although when it's cool, it's doable.

How much does it cost to run?

The Morphy Richards HeatFlux digital oil-filled radiator will cost up to 66p/hour to use (based on the October 2026 energy price cap), but the cost will depend on the mode you use.

Using the eco mode will be the most cost effective, allowing you to set a target temperature and when that's reached, the radiator will cycle on and off to maintain that temperature. That means it won't be using energy unnecessarily.

There are other ways to ensure you use an oil-filled radiator more efficiently, including choosing a suitably powered appliance, positioning it correctly and using it to complement, rather than replace, your central heating.

Cleaning and maintenance

You won't need to do much to keep this oil-filled radiator in good working order. Keeping it dust-free is advised, and while a dry microfibre cloth will get the job done, you can also use a vacuum cleaner with the nozzle attachment to remove any stubborn dust between the fins.

When you're not using it, there's a handy cable tidy you can wrap the power cord around to keep it from getting damage or being a trip hazard.

Who should buy this oil-filled radiator?

If you are looking to heat a room up to 25m2 and ease of use is your primary concern, then the Morphy Richards HeatFlux 2.5kW digital oil-filled radiator will be right up your street. The on-board control panel and remote control are both intuitive to use, and the LED display makes it clear exactly what settings are in play.

But if the radiator's power and heat output is more of a concern, then Vonhaus' 2500W 11 fin oil-filled radiator may be more suitable. Despite having the same wattage, it felt more powerful in testing, warming a larger space more quickly. It also offered better heat retention, keeping warm for close to an hour after it was turned off, compared to around 20 minutes for the Morphy Richards. The downside? It's timer is definitely not as easy to use as the Morphy Richards model and it doesn't look as modern.

If you're trying to heat a much larger space, then the De'Longhi Dragon 4, which can heat spaces up to a whopping 50m2, will be best.

After a quicker boost of heat? Then instead of an oil-filled radiator, I'd recommend an electric heater than will kick out heat instantly. The Dreo Atom 316 is a favourite here at Ideal Home, making quick work of heating spaces up to 20m2, while the Duux Threesixty 2 evenly heats larger spaces up to 30m2.

It's that time of year again when many of our thoughts will begin to turn, however reluctantly, towards turning the central heating back on after months of enjoying lower energy bills thanks to the glorious summer we've just enjoyed.

I don't know about you, but I have already felt the cold creeping back into my house which, from about now onwards, right up until well into spring, becomes a place where layer-upon-layer of knitwear, hot water bottles and fluffy socks are firm staples.

While I am managing to resist the temptation to turn on the central heating system just yet, it is definitely getting towards that time but, given that my house is really inefficient in terms of retaining heat, I'm really keen that when I do flip the switch I get the most out of the my system. I admit that I am totally clueless about how many hours the heating should be on as well as a sensible schedule for me, so asked the experts for their advice to make sure my home is toasty and warm all winter long.

Is there such a thing as a perfect central heating schedule?

While I love the idea of there being a 'perfect central heating schedule' that I can simply set up and press go, I am dubious whether this really exists.

While many people will follow a similar pattern of scheduling the heating to come on for a couple of hours in the morning, maybe an hour or so at lunch and a couple of hours in the evening, this might not be ideal for everyone.

Patrick Garner, a Gas Safe registered engineer at Heatable, told me that, in reality, what is 'perfect' for one household will be all wrong for another. 'There isn’t one perfect heating schedule because every house is different.'

Martin Garbutt, head of technical governance at home services platform Ding, agrees that there is not a one-size-fits all schedule to keep a house warm in winter here. 'There’s no universal perfect schedule for heating your home. It depends on both your home and your habits. Finding yours will probably take a bit of trial and observation rather than following a generic rule.'

How do you find the best schedule for your home?

It seems clear then that what's needed is a tailored approach – but just where do you start when setting up the best heating schedule for your home?

Tom Houlker, director of Houlkair, suggests beginning by assessing at your daily routines. 'Build the heating schedule around when you use each room, and allow enough time for it to feel comfortable when you come home.'

Martyn Fowler, founder of Elite Renewables, has some more advice on this, particularly if, like me, you work from home. 'I’d start by looking at how you actually use the house and how quickly it cools down. If you work from home, you probably don’t need the heating running at the same temperature all day. I’d get the house comfortable for when you start work, then try dropping the thermostat slightly during the day and see how the house responds.

'Older, draughtier homes can lose heat quite quickly, so this can take a bit of trial and error,' continues Martyn. 'If the temperature falls rapidly and the boiler then has to work hard to get the house comfortable again, I’d adjust the timings rather than sticking rigidly to a schedule someone has recommended online.'

I'm definitely going to follow this advice, and use a bit of trial and error to determine the right schedule for my home. To start with, this is what I'm planning:

• 5.30-9am: We get up pretty early due my son's school being far away so we need the heating to already have kicked into action when we wake up at 6am. 
• 12-2pm: As I work from home, I need some heat throughout the day, and it is at about midday that the heat from the morning seems to wear off.
• 5-8pm: As the kids get home from school, we need the house to be warm and cosy – but I like it to be a bit cooler once we all head to bed later on so this is a good time for it to go off. Also, when winter really hits, we like to light the log burner and open fire and they kind of take over on the ground floor.

Tom Houlker says that the size of the space you are heating will also play a part. 'Every room will take a different time to heat up, depending on its size, windows and external walls. Don’t assume it will take the same 30 minutes it always does throughout winter either. Check the forecast and allow extra time on colder days, using your own observations to adjust the schedule. There’s no reliable rule that says each degree colder requires another five minutes of heating.'

What is the most efficient way to use central heating?

Understanding the most efficient way to use your central heating will be key to establishing the right heating schedule for your home.

Energy prices are once again on the rise, with Ofgem confirming that from 1 October to 31 December 2026, the energy price cap will increase by 4% to £1,725 per year for a typical use household.

We have an electric boiler and, with electricity prices considerably higher than gas, I am keen to know the most efficient way to heat a house and get the most from my heating system once I do cave and turn it on.

Ant Langston, marketing manager at HeatandPlumb.com, had some really interesting advice for me, particularly given the age of my house. I never realised that it can actually be cheaper to leave the heating on all day. 'We find the most energy efficient way to heat your home, especially in older properties, is to use the central heating only when needed, but set a minimum temperature so the room does not go completely cold. Allowing a room to go completely cold, only to reheat it again is a very expensive game to play. For older, draughty homes, never turn the heating off completely as this risks frozen pipes.'

Martyn Fowler agrees that low and steady is a good approach to take towards heating. 'The biggest thing is to avoid heating an empty house, but I also wouldn’t keep turning the heating from very hot to completely off throughout the day. For someone working from home, I’d usually aim for a comfortable temperature during the hours they’re actually using the house, then set it back when they go out or go to bed.

'And don’t set the thermostat to 25°C because you want the house to warm up faster,' adds Martyn. 'It doesn’t work like an accelerator. You’re just telling the heating to keep going until the house reaches a much higher temperature.'

Is it complicated to set up a heating schedule?

I have to admit that, in the past, I have ignored many energy saving tips and done the complete opposite of what the experts I spoke to suggested, simply turning the heating on and off as needed – largely due to being too lazy to take the time to set up a proper schedule.

According to Martyn Fowler, programming my system needn't cause me any headaches. 'It doesn’t have to be very complicated. Start with your normal routine. So when you get up, when you start work, when you finish and when you go to bed. Set the heating around those times and then adjust it over a week or so.

'I’d change one thing at a time,' continues Martyn. 'If the house is cold at 8am, bring the heating on a little earlier. If it’s staying warm for hours after you go to bed, you can probably switch it off earlier. You’re basically learning how your house behaves rather than trying to find a magic set of times.'

You should be able to find the instruction manual for your programmer or room thermostat online, which will talk you through how to do it.

Is smart heating better than traditional systems?

We're planning on starting work on another extension and remodel next year at some point and, as part of that, we'll be moving the boiler and upgrading the heating. I was interested to know whether the experts thought I should invest in a smart heating system at the same time.

'A normal programmable thermostat can do the basic job perfectly well,' picks up Martyn Fowler. 'That said, smart controls are useful because they make it easier to adjust things. If you finish work early or go out for the afternoon, you’re less likely to leave the heating running.'

Tom Houlker agrees that smart controls are useful for those with less predictable routines. 'A conventional timer and thermostat will work well if you have a consistent schedule. Smart controls are useful when plans change. Delaying heating using your phone is very helpful for this, therefore opting for a smart system can save you money in the long run.'

Martyn Fowler did point out to me, however, that while a smart system should be something to consider, I would be wise to use it alongside some other old house upgrades, including addressing heat loss. 'Smart controls will only get you so far. If you can feel cold air coming around the windows and doors or the house loses its warmth almost immediately after the heating switches off, I’d deal with those problems first. A heating schedule can reduce waste but it can’t stop heat escaping.'

This Draught Excluder Tape for Doors and Windows from Amazon has been a real game changer in terms of how warm my living room feels.

FAQs

Is it expensive to switch to smart heating controls?

I am seriously considering smart heating when we carry out work to our house next year but, given how over-budget our past projects have gone, I am keen to keep an eye on our renovation and extension costs this time. Is going high-tech with my heating a wise investment?

'The extra costs involved on the initial purchase will take a while to 'pay back' on the added savings,' advises Ant Langston. 'As good as these smart devices are, there are a few niggles which could affect how you use it.

'The main thought for me would be WiFi signal in older homes,' adds Ant. 'This can be troublesome due to the thicker walls so a hub losing a connection could mean a schedule doesn't run, or you cannot access it from where you are.

'Ongoing costs beyond the initial set up can also be a factor, such as subscriptions or or more advanced features like geo-fencing being paywalled,' adds Ant.

Alongside addressing my central heating schedule, I'll also be adding in a few upgrades to make my old house feel warmer this winter without relying solely on the heating system. The draught-proofing could still be improved upon and a couple of sets of thermal curtains are high on my wish-list.

After a very mild start to autumn, I am definitely starting to notice temperatures dropping. While I've been using an oil-filled radiator for the odd days it's been a bit chilly, I am now contemplating putting my central heating on for the first time this season.

Before I do that though, I always like to bleed my radiators so I know they'll offer even heat. While this is a task well within the skillset of even the most novice DIYers, there are a few key things you need to know before you start, from whether you should bleed upstairs or downstairs radiators first, to whether your heating should be on or off.

Should your heating be on or off when you bleed a radiator?

While having your heating on can help identify radiators that are warm at the bottom and cold at the top (a clear sign of air build up), for the actual act of bleeding your radiators, it is essential that your heating is off and your radiators cold.

'If you’re going to bleed your radiators, make sure the heating is switched off and, ideally, wait until your radiators have gone completely cold.,' says Nick Duggan, Director of The Radiator Centre. 'You don’t want to be opening the bleed valve while there’s hot water circulating, as you could end up with hot water coming out and potentially burn yourself. Letting the radiator cool down also gives the air and water inside a chance to settle, so you’ll get a better result when you bleed it.'

As well as the risk of scolding, trying to bleed a radiator while the heating is on means water will come out faster, making it a rather messy business. Plus it's less effective and you'll likely find your radiators have cold spots again.

How long after bleeding your radiators can you turn the heating back on?

While there's no set time period as to how long you should wait before turning your heating back on after bleeding your radiators, experts do suggest making one quick check before you turn it back on.

'Once you’ve finished, you don’t need to leave the heating off for ages,' explains Nick. 'Give it a few minutes, check the boiler pressure, and then you can turn the heating back on. If you’ve bled a few radiators, the pressure may have dropped slightly, so it’s worth checking it’s still within the recommended range before you do.'

How do you identify which radiators need bleeding?

While a cold spot at the top of a radiator is a common sign a specific radiator needs bleeding, you might not be able to feel all the signs of trapped air in the system.

'Trapped air can create cold spots, reduce heating performance and, over time, contribute to corrosion within the system,' explains Darren Danks, Head of Training at Worcester Bosch. 'It's also worth noting that small pockets of air don't always produce noticeable cold spots, so a system can still contain air even if every radiator feels warm.'

So while you could just bleed the radiator that has a noticeable cold spot at the top, it's worthwhile taking a couple of extra minutes to bleed all of your radiators to release any hidden trapped air from the system.

How long does it take to bleed a radiator?

The good news is it only takes about 30 seconds to bleed a radiator, so you can likely bleed all of the radiators in your home in around 15 minutes. It might take a bit longer if you have radiator covers that need to be removed first.

But once you have the tools you need, and have the process nailed, it's definitely not a long and laborious task. This is what you'll need:

It's getting to that time of year when if you spend a lot of time at home, but don't want your heating on constantly, it's worth investing in a heater to provide a boost in the room you're in, when you need it.

If, like me, you have a larger, open plan space, you'll need one of the best oil-filled radiators powerful enough to warm it up.

I've been putting the Vonhaus 2500W 11 Fin Oil Filled Radiator with Timer through it's paces in my home for the last couple of weeks, to see if it was up to the challenge of heating up my kitchen diner. This is what I thought of its set up and performance, and whether I think it could work in your home too.

In a nutshell

The Vonhaus 2500W 11 Fin Oil Filled Radiator with Timer is suitable for medium to large rooms, warming them evenly and with ease. With three different heat settings, 1000W, 1500W, and 2500W, as well as a thermostat dial, you can customise the heat output to your preferences. There is also a timer that you can use to turn it on or off at certain times.

It comes with wheels so you can easily move it around without needing to lift it's 10kg weight, and it has a built in cable tidy so you can keep it neat when it's not in use.

Available in black, grey and white, there is an option to best suit any interior scheme, and it has an RRP of £79.99.

How I tested

Specification

• Type of heater: Oil-filled radiator
• RRP: £79.99
• Weight: 10kg
• Dimensions: (W x H x D): 44.2 x 61.8 x 28cm
• Wattage: 2500W
• Running costs per hour: 26-66p/kWh
• Room size suitability: Up to 30m2
• Smart features? None
• Dual functionality? None
• Timer? Yes
• Remote control? No

Unboxing, setting up and first impressions

The Vonhaus 11 fin oil-filled radiator with timer was delivered in a large yet narrow cardboard box. While the box was quite heavy, I did manage to move it single handedly into my living room from the doorway to unbox it.

While the outer box is all recyclable cardboard, there is polystyrene internal packaging inside that I wish had been recyclable cardboard instead, as well as a plastic bag.

In the box, you get the radiator itself, an instruction manual, two wheels, two wheel bases and two u-shaped bolts, which you will need to attach. I followed the instructions for fitting the wheels, but did find it a little more fiddly than I thought I would.

It was easy enough to attach the wheels to the wheel bases, but you will need to upturn the radiator, which is quite heavy, and it's not all that stable whichever way up you have it until you pop the wheels on. And so it was propped on my knee while I tried to fit the wheel bases to the radiator with the u-shaped bots, and that's where things got a bit tricky, especially when my curious puppy decided she wanted to help. While I managed it with two hands, I do think it would be better to have a second pair of hands to support the radiator at a suitable angle while the wheels are attached.

Once the wheels were fixed in place and I'd turned it right side up, about 20 minutes had passed. But with two pairs of human hands, I'd say this could be done in a couple of minutes tops.

Then it's just a matter of plugging it in and turning it on.

When it comes to looks, the radiator is largely plain and minimalist, but it does look a bit dated compared to other oil-filled radiators I've seen. But as this isn't an appliance I am likely to leave out year round in my home, I tend to view as more functional than aesthetic.

What’s it like to use?

I first tried the Vonhaus 2500W 11 fin oil-filled radiator in my medium sized living room, that is around the 18m2 mark. I was prepared to wait a little while for the oil-filled radiator to start producing heat (after all that's one of the main differences between electric heaters and oil-filled radiators), but I was pleased to notice that I could feel the room warming up after just 10 minutes.

Measuring the ambient temperature in the room, it rose from 16.8 to 17.8°C in those first ten minutes in the highest power mode, up to 20.2°C after 30 minutes and a very cosy 22.2°C after an hour. The heat seemed to be evenly distributed around the room, too.

When I turned it off, it continued to radiate heat for the best part of an hour too. Free heat!

I also used it in my open plan kitchen diner, which is around 22m2, to see how it would perform in a larger space. It took a bit longer to feel the effects, but I clocked the ambient room temperature had risen by a degree in about 20 minutes, and I was able to feel the warmth from the radiator while I was about 5m away on the other side of the room. After an hour, the ambient temperature had risen by 2.5°C.

Moving the radiator from room to room was really easy. I found the wheels moved well on both hard floors and carpet, although I did find it easier to pull it over the rug in my living room, using the recessed handle above the controls, rather that pushing it.

While moving it around the same level in my home was a doddle, moving it up and downstairs is a bit more of a task. Weighing 10 kilos, and being quite sizable in dimension, it's doable, but it's not easy. If you have any mobility or dexterity concerns, I would suggest waiting for assistance before attempting to manoeuvre this up the stairs.

I did find that the handle and controls were warm to the touch once the radiator had been on for a while, but it was still possible to move it around. But to be on the safe side, I'd wait until it was fully cooled before trying to move it around.

In terms of controls, they are pretty basic. You have one dial that goes from 0 to 3. This is to select your heat output, from 1000W in position one, to 2500W in position 3, and position 0 turns it off.

A second dial, which sadly does not show any numerical measurement, is the adjustable thermostat. Turn it clockwise to raise the temperature and anti-clockwise to reduce it. While that's simple enough, I do wish there was a little more specificity so I could select an actual target temperature. However, adjusting the heat output and thermostat based on your comfort levels, it's easy enough to ensure a comfortable level of heat. There's no remote control included so you will need to do this via the onboard control panel.

While the general operation of the oil-filled radiator is straightforward, the same can't be said for the timer, which to me seems overly complex and old fashioned. It's comprised of two dials which represents a 24 hour clock, with 96 tiny plastic segments which each represents a 15 minute time window. These segments are so tiny, it's very difficult to set with any accuracy. Those with vision or dexterity issues may experience an added layer of difficulty with the timer. But if you're happy with being able to programme the radiator to turn on or off at more of a rough time, then the timer is worth using. If you are looking for a more rigid timescale, I'd be tempted to turn it on and off manually instead.

When it's off and cooled down, it's easy to push closer to the wall so it's out of the way. I like that there is an onboard cable tidy to protect the cable and avoid a trip hazard when it's not in use.

How much does it cost to run?

The running costs of this oil-filled radiator will depend on which setting you use and how long you use it for, but based on the October 2026 energy price cap figure of 2.32p/kWh of electricity, you can expect this heater to cost between 26 and 66p per hour to run.

Using the timer can help ensure it's not used longer than necessary

Cleaning and maintenance

One thing I love about oil-filled radiators is that they need very little maintenance, and this Vonhaus model is no exception.

To ensure your oil-filled radiator lasts, and works most efficiently, you'll need to give it a regular dust and try to avoid any dings or dents. The oil inside doesn't get used up, so it won't need refilling, but when it's not in use, it's wise to store it upright so the oil remains settled.

As with any appliance, you should check the cable is always in good condition too.

Who should buy this electric heater?

The Vonhaus 2500W 11 fin oil-filled radiator with timer will be ideal if you are looking for an affordable, high-powered radiator to complement your existing heating system.

However, if the timer is an important feature for you, then a digital oil-filled radiator like the Morphy Richards HeatFlux 2.5kW Digital Oil Filled Radiator with Remote Control or the app controlled Duux Edge will be easier to use. They both have Eco mode too, which sadly the Vonhaus doesn't. But as a consequence, both have higher price points than the more affordable Vonhaus model.

Want to heat a smaller space? The 2500W of the Vonhaus oil-filled radiator will be too powerful, and you'll be spending more to run in that you need to. Instead Vonhaus' 800W oil-filled radiator may be much more suitable. On the other hand, if you want to heat a large open plan space, the De'Longhi Dragon 4 can tackle spaces up to 50m2.

As a whole, my house is pretty chilly – a combination of it being built more than 100 years ago, original windows and doors and, I'm a little ashamed to admit, a lack of substantial insulation and draught proofing measures.

That said, not all the rooms feel as artic as one another – while the newer sections, such as the kitchen extension and my son's bedroom, feel pretty toasty most of the time, other spaces can become almost uninhabitable when outside temperatures drop – the entrance hallway being one of them.

This really bugs me – after all, this is the space that should set the tone for the rest of the house, somewhere to welcome in guests and to look forward to returning to. A few weeks ago I finally got round to draught-proofing the front door but I am keen to put further measures in place before the cold really begins to creep in. I asked the experts for their advice on the matter – here, I share their top tips.

1. Detect and deal with each and every draught

Having lived in this house for around 13 years now, it was only a couple of weeks ago that we finally got around to upping our draught-proofing game by addressing the very ill-fitting original front door. We added a letterbox cover, a brush seal to the bottom of the door, a pretty brass escutcheon and some weatherstripping.

It is too early to tell how much of a difference this will make but, according to Martyn Fowler, founder of Elite Renewables, we have made a strong start and he advises other homeowners to begin in the same place we did. 'The front door is always the first place I check for draughts. Run your hand around the frame, underneath the door and around the letterbox. You can normally feel where the cold air is getting in. Worn weatherstripping or an unsealed letterbox are simple fixes – just don’t block any ventilation that is there intentionally.'

Georges Cornah, owner of Warm4Less, has a couple of additional tips when it comes to draught-proofing the space. 'Laying a draught excluder at the bottom of the door will catch whatever draughts are left and you can buy these very cheaply. It’s also worth checking understairs cupboards – they can be a source of draughts that get forgotten about.'

Shop draught-proofing essentials

2. Switch the cold stone floor for something else

While the hallway flooring we chose is fairly practical, it is utterly freezing underfoot. The slate tiles are easy to clean and have proved really durable, and using dark grout was a smart move as it never seems to show signs of wear, unlike the pale grout we have used other rooms. All of that said, if I were choosing new hallway flooring, I think I'd definitely go for something more comfortable and snug.

'Your flooring definitely changes how warm the hallway feels underfoot,' picks up Martyn Fowler. 'People always notice their feet getting cold first. Tile and stone flooring can feel very cold in winter. If you’ve already got a hard floor, I wouldn’t necessarily replace it just for this. A good runner can make the space feel warmer without a major flooring job.'

Patrick Garner, a gas safe engineer at Heatable, suggests that in some cases swapping stone for something soft can be a wise move, although for maximum benefit, he also recommends upgrading floor insulation – something on my to-do list for when we remodel the hall next year. 'Adding carpet and a good underlay can really help, particularly when compared to tile or bare timber flooring, but if you’re really losing heat, adding insulation beneath a floor can make a bigger difference in older homes.'

3. Address the poorly-sized and badly-positioned radiators

The only source of heat in our hallway is the column radiator, which sits behind the row of hooks that holds a mountain of coats and jackets that someone really needs to sort through. Lack of proper hallway storage aside, what this means is that absolutely no heat manages to get from the radiator into the hallway – although the coats at the bottom of the mound are nice and toasty when you put them on.

Add to that the fact that the radiator stopped heating up at the end of last winter (we think due to a thermostat that needs replacing) and it is clear that we need to address the hallway heating pretty soon. I had been thinking about using an electric heater to supplement things but, having spoken to Martyn Fowler, I'm not sure that this is the best idea. 'If there’s already a radiator in the hallway I’d start there rather than adding another heater. Make sure it’s heating properly and that it isn’t boxed in or hidden behind furniture.

'Electric heaters wouldn’t be my first choice for an entrance hallway,' continues Martyn. 'You’re using relatively expensive electricity to heat a space that loses warmth every time somebody opens the front door. I’d spend that money on stopping the draughts first. If the hallway still needs more heat after that, then you can look at the heating properly.'

4. Consider adding a porch or lobby

For some time now we have been looking a some more substantial front porch ideas for our house to replace the open design we currently have. While the existing porch is original to the house, the idea of an enclosed style structure, perhaps oak-framed, really appeals and would add another layer of protection between inside and out too.

'A porch can work really well because you’re basically creating an airlock between the house and outside,' picks up Martyn Fowler. 'When you open the outer door, you’re not immediately letting cold outside air into the main hallway.'

That said, this is a far greater undertaking (and cost) than some of the cheaper upgrades to keep the house warm in winter that I've been looking into – something Martyn is keen to point out to others. 'I wouldn’t build a porch purely because the hallway feels draughty. Check the existing front door, seals and insulation first. There’s usually a much simpler problem that can be fixed for a fraction of the cost.'

5. Install thermal curtains and blinds

And, finally, this is yet another job I have been meaning to get around to doing but haven't just yet – installing thermal curtains inside the front door, and fitting a lined blind to the hallway window.

When we bought the house it had been changed very little since it was built and there was a thick, heavy velvet curtain at the front door which was deemed 'creepy' by the children and was quickly taken down – after which it quickly became apparent how big a role it was playing in keeping out draughts.

While I had always thought of this as a rather old fashioned idea, having had a look at the thermal window treatment ideas on offer I am now quite excited about how it could add a really cosy vibe to the hallway decor as a whole.

Shop thermal curtains and blinds

FAQs

Is it worth using an electric heater in a cold hallway?

It seems that the answer to this very much depends on the hallway in question, as well as the type of electric heaters you are considering.

On the one hand, in hallways like mine, with no porch, little insulation and where the staircase leads directly off to the second storey, there is often little benefit to traditional fan heaters, as Patrick Garner explains. 'I wouldn’t recommend using a portable electric heater, as it will cost you more in the long term.'

However, Georges Cornah says that infrared heaters can be a wise investment. 'Hallways are a tricky part of the house to heat because you pass through rather than sit in them, and every time you open the front door, the warmth rushes out.

'Infrared heaters are brilliant for hallways. They heat objects instead of a big volume of air that gets lost through draughts like traditional convection heating,' explains Georges. 'Infrared heat warms the walls, the floors, furniture, and people. It works exactly like the sun – even though the air might be cold, the sun still feels warm on your face. Another benefit is that you can install infrared heaters on the ceiling to maximise wall space in what can often be a narrow part of your home.'

If you are really keen to delay turning on your heating this winter yet don't want to be left shivering, there are plenty of ways of keeping a house warm without central heating to try out before flicking the on switch.

Whenever the temperature starts to dip, my focus always goes to how I can ensure my energy bills remain as low as possible.

Sometimes that means digging out an electric heater or a heated blanket to warm myself up while I'm working from home, rather than popping my central heating on longer than necessary, and heating parts of my home that I don't tend to use during the day.

As part of my mission to save energy while I work from home, I tried the Stoov Big Hug3, a heated seat pad, on my home office chair (and beyond) to see whether it was my solution to staying warm throughout the day, without reaching for my thermostat.

In a nutshell

Stoov's Big Hug3 is a cordless heated chair cover that uses infrared heating technology to warm the body rather than the air.

Ideal for those working from home, the Big Hug3 is designed to cover the chair seat and back, offering three different heat levels to keep you toasty. Available in two different sizes and colourways (a dark grey and a beige), as well as different fabrics, including a very cosy woolly texture.

As well as the variety of options for the Big Hug3 itself, you can choose different battery options depending on how much you plan to use your chair cover, from Base which offers the lowest run time and is best if you only plan on using your BigHug3 for short periods. Flex offers the middle run time, while Pro offers the longest and was the one I chose, which offers between 2-5 hours run time.

It's part of a range of cordless infrared heating products, which also includes cushions, blankets and electric hot water bottles.

Specification

• Sizes available: 45x115cm | 47x135cm
• RRP: from £119.99
• Type: Chair pad
• Wattage: n/a
• Temperature settings: 3
• Auto shut-off timer: Yes
• Dual controls: No
• Machine washable: Yes at 30°C

Unboxing, set up and first impressions

The Stoov Big Hug arrived in a surprisingly compact cardboard box, with the brand's mission clearly stated 'We warm people, not the planet.' Its largely card packaging, with the exception of the bag the cover itself comes in which is made from 100% recycled plastic.

In the box you get the cover, a battery pack, a charging cable and plug, as well as a Getting Started Guide.

Unrolling the Big Hug, I instantly liked the soft material and luxe beige and burgundy colourway. There's also a cable to securely attach it to a chair, which I thought was a very nice touch, although in practicality, this didn't actually work that well on my style office chair, which has arms. Fortunately, it's not essential in order to use it.

A huge bonus for me is that it's cordless – I already have multiple cables streaming across the corner of my desk, and I was very thankful not to have yet another. Not being constrained by proximity to a plug socket gives a whole sense of freedom about when and where I can use it.

When it comes to other features, I especially liked that the charging cable and battery pack match the burgundy accent on the Big Hug3 – all thoughtful design elements which I feel warrant the £100+ price tag.

There's really not much involved in terms of set up. All I needed to do was connect the battery and slot it into the handy pocket, which took less than a minute, and then plug the charger into the smart label and leave it for a couple of hours to charge.

What's it like to use?

The Stoov Big Hug3 is really simple to operate via the smart label, the burgundy tag that is located on the edge of the cover, about half way down the back. There's a small, discreet switch that you need to flick first (there's a little green sticker to look out for that will tell you it's on). Then you just long press the Stoov logo, and you'll see a light come up. That shows it's on the lowest heat setting. Press it again, for the two lights and the middle heat setting, and again for the third light and highest heat setting.

After laying it on my office chair, I popped it on the highest power setting, which should heat up to a very toasty 58°C. The warmth is nice, not as hot as I was expecting, but it's very pleasant and it effectively warms the body, without creating a stuffy environment that I find can happen if I use an electric heater for too long.

I was expecting the whole pad to warm up, but rather than that, there are two distinct heat zones, one on the back and one on the seat, with a narrow heat zone connecting the two. Initially, I was a bit disappointed by this, but as I was using it, it didn't actually feel that problematic. I could feel warmth exactly where I wanted it and where my body had the most contact with the Big Hug3. However, while that works for a heated chair pad, it means this wouldn't be my first choice to double up as a heated blanket. The dimensions and thicker material don't drape as well over the body, and are far better to sit on rather than be covered with.

On the highest heat setting I got just under two hours heat time, but even after the heat turned off, the woolly texture was so cosy, I felt really quick snuggly still. On the lower heat setting, I got closer to five hours before it needed recharging.

It also held its shape well, with no wrinkles forming, even by the end of a long work day.

While there were a lot of positives, I did have one main gripe with the user experience of the Big Hug3. Despite the back of the BigHug3 being almost 10cm longer than my chair back, whenever I leaned forward on my chair, the weight of the battery pack would cause it to slump down, which was rather frustrating after the third or fourth time. In hindsight, I should have opted for the BigHug XL, which is longer than the Big Hug, and would be better suited to my higher back (67cm) chair. However, when I used the Big Hug on a lower backed chair, this definitely wasn't a problem, I could drape enough of the non-heated part over the back so that the weight of the battery actually helped keep it in place.

I also tried it as a heat pad while sitting on the sofa. While the weight of the battery did cause it to slump down, I found that if I popped a pillow behind my back, and tucked the battery pack behind it, I could keep it in place, still benefit from the heat zones, and it was remarkably comfortable.

When it comes to charging, Stoov advises to charge it via the smart label, which I did, but this does mean that you need a decent amount of counter space to sit the rolled up Big Hug as it charges. I would position it with the smart label facing outwards so I could easily tell the charging progress (the heat level lights flash until you have three solid lights that mean it is fully charged).

Whenever it's not in use, I love how neatly it rolls up – it takes up a fraction of the space of one of my sherpa fleece blankets I tend to use in winter.

Running costs

While you will need to charge it regularly, the Stoov Big Hug3 is cordless so it doesn't run directly off electricity, and depending on the battery you choose and the heat setting, you can get up to five hours of use on a single charge.

Maintenance and cleaning

Apart from regular charging, there's not much the Stoov Big Hug3 needs in terms of maintenance. Should you spill anything on the cover, the good news is it can be washed, but you need to make sure you remove the heating element from the inside first.

I found this quite easy to do. There is a large zip on the back where the base and the back meet, and there is another mat on the inside, which houses the heating element. I found it easiest to slip the base out of the woolly cover first, then detach the smart label (which is attached to the outer cover with Velcro), and finally remove the battery connector through a whole in the fabric at the base of the fabric pocket before sliding the rest of the heating element mat out.

Once the two are completely separated, you can wash the outer cover in the washing machine, according to the care instructions.

I found it just as easy to slip it back together again.

Who should buy the Stoov BigHug3?

If you work from home, have a lower back desk chair (say that comes up to just below your shoulder blades) and don't want to be limited by proximity to a plug socket, then the Stoov Big Hug3 may be exactly what you're looking for. Not only is it comfortable and effective, but it holds it shape well and it both looks and feels cosy and luxurious.

If, like me, you have a higher back office chair, or want to use it on the sofa, I'd definitely recommend the XL version instead, to avoid having it slump down whenever you move.

However, if you want something more blanket like to keep you warm on chilly evenings, I think a heated throw, like the Dreamland Luxury Heated Throw, would be a better option. You will need to be near a plug-socket, but that may be more doable as you chill on the sofa.

Looking to heat a room itself? That's where an electric heater will be most useful for a quick burst of heat when you need it. The Dreo Atom 316 is the best we've tried and it's small enough to fit neatly on a desk. For more prolonged heating, one of the best oil-filled radiators will be more economical to run.

We might be in October, but instead of those crisp autumn days I live for, we're in that weird time of year when it's really chilly first thing in the morning, roasting hot by lunchtime, with temperatures plummeting again when the sun goes down.

With these wild fluctuations during the day, and it not feeling cold enough to put the central heating on, it's hard to know whether you should hold off packing away the best fans for the season or bring the electric heater or oil-filled radiator out to keep things comfortable at home. Or both.

But these appliances can be sizable, and if you're anything like me, the idea of having both heating and cooling options out at the same time can make a tidy person a little twitchy.

Fortunately, there is a solution – a single appliance that offers equally effective cooling and heating.

But not all multi-functional appliances are created equal. While most fan heaters will offer a fan only mode as standard, in my experience, the fan mode isn't always that effective, especially compared to some of the best standalone fans on the market.

However there are notable exceptions that can be effective at maintaining a comfortable environment in your home at this time of year (and beyond), offering equal levels of heat and cooling functionality. And as luck would have it, they're all currently on offer as part of Amazon's Prime Day-style sale event, the Big Deal Days.

The Dyson Purifier Hot+Cool HP1, might be an investment (although we have spotted that both Amazon and Dyson have knocked £100 off the RRP), but it is essentially three products all wrapped up in one package. When we tested the Dyson Purifier Hot+Cool HP1, we were really impressed by both the 10 heating and cooling settings, and loved that it offered a purification function at the same time (so much so, it even appears on our round up of the best air purifiers too).

For something more compact, and affordable (at least in comparison to the Dyson), the Duux Threesixty2 is primarily a heater, but it does have two different ventilation settings. Combined with the 360° air distribution, this minimalist appliance can quickly freshen up (or warm up) your room, depending on the time of day.

If portability is more important to you, then the Dreo Smart Whole Room Heater 714S will be ideal, thanks to it's lightweight and easy carry handle. With three heat settings and three fan settings that impressed us during testing, it's clear from the get-go that this appliance absolutely wants to be seen as a heater and fan in equal measure.

Heated cushions aren't exactly a new idea, but if you're trying to stay cosy without immediately reaching for the central heating, then now may be the time to run to Lidl's middle aisle.

The Sensiplast Heated Electric Cushion costs £16, making it a much more affordable option than some of the pricier heated cushions on the market, like the Stoov our Renovations Editor Sarah swears by when working from home.

Rather than warming the whole room, you can use it to add a little extra heat exactly where you need it – whether that's behind your back, across your lap or under a blanket. After all, it won't be long before Martin Lewis is reminding us to heat the person, not the room.

The Lidl heated cushion

The cushion has six heat settings, so you can adjust the temperature to suit you, while an automatic switch-off kicks in after 90 minutes. The detachable control unit also makes it easier to remove the electrical components when it's time to wash the cover.

And speaking of the cover, it's made from a soft, fluffy 100% polyester and can be popped in the washing machine at 30°C. Measuring 40cm x 30cm, it's compact enough to sit comfortably on a sofa or armchair without taking over.

It's worth noting that this isn't a cordless heated cushion, so you'll need to have it plugged in while you're using it. The 2.8m cable should give you plenty of flexibility, even if your nearest socket isn't right next to the sofa.

We also haven't tested this product so can't speak to how effective it is in practice. That said, there's a three-year warranty included, for a little extra peace of mind. Plus, if you're a Lidl Plus member, there's also 10% off the £16 price in store while stocks last.

Just imagine: it's a cold winter's evening, your dinner is cooking, and your curtains are drawn. Every lamp you own is switched on, and your current TV fix is paused, waiting for you to sit. Your electric cushion is switched on to warm. You sit down and feel the warmth oozing up your back. Your feet are snuggly thanks to slippers, and the rest of your body is warmed under your throw. You're feeling smug because your heating isn't even on and you're even spending £££s.

This find won't be in store for long, so buy yours now before the cold snap hits and you regret it later.

Central heating season is once again upon us but, in the face of yet another rise in energy prices, many people are understandably trying delay turning it on.

While there are ways of keeping a house warm without central heating, there comes a time when the big switch on is inevitable. That said, there are ways of using your central heating more efficiently when it is up and running – including when you choose to turn in on and off again.

In the case of underfloor heating, the way in which you operate your system, as well as the temperature you set it at can have a huge effect on both your comfort levels as well as how much it costs you to run. Some experts advise leaving it on all the time to maximise its benefits – but is this really the best idea? I did some digging.

Is it a good idea to leave underfloor heating on all the time?

There is much speculation about whether it is cheaper to leave central heating on all day, but when it comes to households with underfloor heating, there are several factors to take into consideration when it comes to how best to operate it.

Ben Gallizzi, energy expert at Uswitch, explains that in many cases, rather than leaving your UFH running continuously, it is better to think about your routines and schedule it to come on and off as needed. 'Underfloor heating doesn’t necessarily need to be on all the time, but it does need to be managed slightly differently from traditional radiators. Since it takes longer to heat a room, switching it on only when you feel cold may mean you’re waiting a while for the room to reach a comfortable temperature. Using a timer or central heating controls can help households plan ahead and have the heating come on when they actually need it, rather than running it continuously."

However, Martyn Fowler, founder of Elite Renewables, goes on to explain that, during colder months, a low-and-steady approach can be best if you want to keep a lid on your underfloor heating costs. 'It doesn’t need to be on all the time – but I wouldn’t keep turning it on and off either if it’s a wet system under a screed floor. The floor takes time to heat up and it holds onto that heat for quite a while. It generally works better with a steady temperature rather than turning off and on constantly and heating the floor from cold.

'If nobody is home, I’d turn the temperature down – I wouldn’t necessarily switch a slow system completely off for a couple of hours,' adds Martyn. 'Turning it down a few degrees usually makes more sense.'

When should you switch underfloor heating off?

Even if, during the winter, you choose to leave your underfloor heating on a continuous low setting, there will be times when it is a better idea to turn it off altogether, particularly if you have electric UFH, as Simon Bones, founder and CEO of Genous, explains. 'Underfloor heating comes in two flavours, wet (hot water running through the pipes) and dry (electric matting running under the floor). Electric underfloor heating is expensive to run and you are best off using it only when it is needed and/or when electricity is cheap (if you have solar panels or a battery and/or a time-of-use tariff) as it’s not economic to use it as an always-on solution.'

'If you’re going away for a few days or you don’t need the heating, there’s nothing wrong with turning UFH off,' picks up Martyn Fowler. 'If you’re only going out for a couple of hours, I probably wouldn’t bother. I’d just turn the temperature down a little. Otherwise you can come home to a cold floor that takes hours to warm up again.'

Is there a ideal underfloor heating schedule?

While the idea of there being an ideal central heating schedule to keep your house warm all winter is an appealing one, sadly there is no one-size-fits all solution to go by – a tailored approach is always best.

'I’d start by working out how long your floor takes to warm up. That’s really what your schedule needs to be based around,' advises Martyn Fowler. 'If you get up at 7am and the floor takes two hours to get the room comfortable, have it come on around 5am. Then you can start bringing the temperature down before you go to bed because the floor will carry on giving off heat for a while. It takes a bit of trial and error at first, but after a few days you normally get a good feel for how your floor behaves.'

Ben Gallizzi agrees that the starting point when devising an efficient schedule should be your routine. 'There isn’t a single schedule that will work for every household, as it will depend on the type of system, the room and when the space is being used. However, it’s worth programming underfloor heating to come on ahead of the times you normally need the room to be warm. This can help save energy and avoid unnecessarily running the system when the room is empty, while still allowing enough time for it to reach a comfortable temperature.'

What is the most efficient way to use underfloor heating?

If you are still feeling a little unsure of the best way to use your underfloor heating to ensure you are getting the most out of it, Martyn Fowler has some words of advice. 'I’d keep it as low and steady as you can while still being comfortable. You shouldn’t need to make the floor really hot. If it’s a wet system, you also want to keep the water temperature as low as the house allows. That’s where underfloor heating can work really efficiently, particularly with a heat pump. And use the different zones if you have them. There’s no point keeping a guest bedroom as warm as the living room if nobody is in there.'

'Leaving underfloor heating on low all day shouldn’t automatically be assumed to be the cheapest option,' adds Ben Gallizzi. 'Running costs will depend on many factors, including the type of system, the size of the area being heated and the energy source powering it.

'Whatever type of system you have, using heating controls and a timer is important,' continues Ben. 'Rather than simply leaving the heating running continuously, you should aim to heat your home around your daily routine and only when warmth is actually needed.'

What is the best way to use underfloor heating with a heat pump?

Heat pumps can be one of the most efficient ways to heat a house – if you have one, or are considering installing one, finding out how to use it alongside your underfloor heating should be top of your to-do list.

'With a heat-pump UFH gets more interesting,' picks up Simon Bones. 'First, you can typically run a heat-pump with UFH at a lower flow-temperature than if you just had radiators (making the heat pump more efficient), so that’s a good thing.

'Secondly, most heat-pumps are sized close to the needs of the property so, particularly in the depths of winter, don’t let the temperature drop too much as the heat pump will otherwise be working flat out to get it to temperature – a 5 degree drop or less is probably what you want,' continues Simon.

'Also, if you use a time-of-use tariff then the time of day will have a big impact: if you’re on an overnight EV tariff, for instance, you may want to heat more in that window and, if you have a super-peak period, you may want to turn off the UFH during that time.'

FAQs

What temperature should you leave underfloor heating on at?

When it comes to the actual temperature to set you underfloor heating at, there is once again no magic number, although there are some guidelines worth considering.

'I’d normally start somewhere around 18°C to 21°C for the room and see how that feels,' advises Martyn Fowler. 'There isn’t one perfect number for everybody.

'If you're looking to find the right bedroom temperature to sIeep, you can bring that down a few degrees rather than switching everything off,' adds Martyn. 'And don’t worry if the floor doesn’t feel really warm under your feet. That’s actually quite normal.'

Once you have worked out the best schedule for your heating, make sure you familiarise yourself with the most common underfloor heating mistakes – it could save you a considerable amount of money on your heating bills and prevent any damage to your flooring.

Now is the time to check your heating system so that you can ensure it is in good working order before the cold weather really sets in. And a key, very DIY-friendly part of the process is bleeding your radiators.

But when it comes to the correct order to bleed your radiators in, should you start upstairs or downstairs? I asked the experts for the definitive answer.

Should you bleed upstairs or downstairs radiators first?

You should always start by bleeding downstairs radiators first, before moving upstairs.

'It’s recommended to start bleeding your downstairs radiators first, beginning with the radiator furthest from your boiler,' explains Alex Woods from Victorian Plumbing. 'Once all of the downstairs radiators are bled, move upstairs and repeat the same process, starting with the radiator furthest from your boiler.'

But why does this order matter? 'As air naturally rises, this means any residual air in the system will be systematically moved upwards as you go through the upstairs radiators, rather than collecting in parts of the system you have already bled,' adds Alex.

To bleed your radiators, you will need:

What happens if you bleed your radiators in the wrong order?

While it's much more effective and efficient to bleed your radiators starting on the ground floor and moving upwards, the good news is that if you don't follow the advised order, you won't cause any damage to your heating system, you just might find you need to bleed your radiators again.

'Don't panic if you've started upstairs, you're not likely to damage the system doing it in the wrong order, it's just a less efficient way of getting the job done,' reveals Matthew Powell, Founder of WarmZilla. 'If you bleed the upstairs ones first then release trapped air from the downstairs radiators, air can keep moving through the system then collect back upstairs again. That can leave you needing to go back and check the upstairs radiators again, so it's just best to clear the system methodically so you don’t create extra work for yourself.

'Once you’ve finished, check the boiler pressure before switching the heating back on because bleeding radiators can reduce the pressure in a sealed system.'

Follow this step-by-step guide if you find that your boiler pressure is too low.

Should you bleed all radiators or just the one that feels cold?

It's definitely fine to just bleed a single radiator that feels cold at the top, but if you notice gurgling sounds then it might be worth taking the time to bleed each one, as Matthew explains: 'If one radiator is cold at the top and every other radiator is heating normally, you can just bleed that radiator. A cold top with a warmer bottom is a classic sign that air has collected inside it, so there’s no need to interfere with the entire system.

'If several radiators are gurgling, heating unevenly or cold across the top, I’d check each of them because that suggests trapped air is more widespread. Open each bleed valve carefully and listen for the hiss of escaping air. If water appears immediately with no air coming out, that radiator probably didn’t need bleeding.'

Once you've bled your radiators and checked your boiler pressure, turn your heating back on and check that the radiators are heating evenly. If you notice they're not, or that they are instead cold at the bottom, then it might be a sign of a problem with the valve, sludge build up in the system or your radiators may need balancing.

'If your radiator has cold spots at the bottom, the system may need flushing which is a more complicated task,' says John Klee, heating technology expert at BestHeating. 'For those who don’t feel confident in their skills it is always best to contact a qualified professional who will prevent any further problems down the line.'

It's that time of year again when the cold insidiously creeps back into my house. For me, it isn't the leaves turning from green to orange that signals the onset of autumn – it is the way in which my fingers and nose begin to get decidedly chilly as I sit and work from home, not to mention the fact that the garden inexplicably feels warmer than the inside of the house.

Every year there is a silent battle between me and my husband involving the secret turning on and off of the heating, as we try to balance saving energy at home at staying warm. But this year I have to admit I'll be on his side given the rise in heating costs once again.

With this in mind, I have decided that I am going to do everything I can to delay turning on the central heating this year – I asked the experts for their tips on how I can keep myself warmer for longer.

1. Draught-proofing every room in the house

My house is seriously lacking in the draught-proofing department and while I have made a few upgrades over the years to make my old house feel warmer, there is still a way to go.

According to Stephen Hankinson, heating and energy efficiency expert at Electric Radiators Direct, this is one of the first things I need to address. 'A cheap and effective way to save on energy bills is by controlling draughts, because they let warm air escape through gaps, including the through the bottom of doors, windows, letterboxes, unused chimneys and even floorboard cracks. 

'Draught excluders for windows and doors are an inexpensive yet effective way to keep the heat from escaping your house,' continues Stephen. 'Other options such as chimney balloons and pipework insulation can also stop cold gusts and heat loss for little in the way of costs.  Do keep some fresh air coming into the house though, to prevent mould forming inside.'

Becky Lane, CEO of Furbnow, has some additional suggestions if you are unsure where your home is leaking heat. 'The first step is always to find and block the worst drafts. Borrow or rent a thermal imaging camera if you can, or simply run your hand around doors, windows and floorboards to feel where warm air is escaping.' This thermal imaging camera from Amazon is one of the lower cost buys.

Shop draught-proofing essentials

2. Upgrading my window treatments

Some of the windows in my house are the originals and still have single glazing – meaning they are a major source of heat loss. I have been aware for a while now that my choice of curtains and blinds could really help here.

'UK data shows that standard window glass accounts for up to 18% of heat loss in a typical British home, but by using blinds, you reduce this loss by up to a third,' reveals Helen O’Connor, 247 Blinds' trends and product manager. 'People forget one of the most crucial reasons we get blinds, curtains or shutters. Of course, they make your windows look good, they provide privacy and shade for your home, but they are also our primary insulation barrier. When autumn hits, people instinctively bump up the heating, but actually, if used cleverly, your blinds can help you stay comfortable and save money, way before you commit to your annual heating switch-on.'

I was keen to know, what kind of approach should I take, in Helen's opinion, towards my window treatments? 'First, opt for a snug, recess-fit blind. Measure your window accurately to help the thermal blind fit as tightly as possible within your window frame. Minimising the edge gaps will mean that your blinds can do all the work and it prevents warm air from slipping behind the shade.

'You should also consider window stacking,' adds Helen. 'Combining blinds and curtains gives you more options with your windows and makes an excellent thermal barrier. Thermal blinds are the ideal base, and this can be amplified further by adding a second layer. For this, I’d style a heavy, textured curtain to enhance the thermal effect.'

3. Topping up my loft insulation

My loft really has become something I try not to think about. Not only is it full to the brim with all kinds of stuff I haven't got around to sorting through, but I am also painfully aware that the loft insulation we have in place up there is not really doing anything to help with the energy bills around here come winter.

Becky Lane explains the difference this simple task could make. 'If you can afford it, the quickest wins are things like topping up loft insulation or insulating suspended floors. A minimum of 270mm of insulation can retain heat and save you as much as £70 a year.'

Make sure you research how much loft insulation you need as it could be just as problematic to have too much as it is to have too little.

Stephen Hankinson also points out that topping up insulation throughout the home can help you get the most out of your central heating when you do finally switch it on. 'The effectiveness of your heating system can depend on the type of house you live in – newer homes with better insulation usually retain heat more efficiently, while older houses might need more frequent heating adjustments to stay comfortable.'

4. Getting into the habit of closing internal doors

It is not so much me as it is my two teenagers who are the main energy wasters around here – lights left on, unnecessarily long, hot showers, lots of hairdryer usage and the odd inability to close any doors behind them.

My entrance hallway is probably the coldest part of the house thanks to its uninsulated slate floor and poorly draught-proofed front door. With the door leading from this space into the living room left open, the cool breeze whistles on through to the whole of the rest of the house.

According to Stephen Hankinson, even once we turn the heating on we should get into the habit of closing doors. 'Leaving doors open is wasting money on energy bills. It will take longer for key rooms to get to the temperature required and your heating will need to be on for longer periods of time.  It may sound simple but if you keep the internal doors in the house open, the heat from radiators will flow out. Prioritise the rooms you want warm, but don’t try and heat the full house by keeping every door open – your bank account won’t thank you.'

5. Heating myself rather than the room

Another simple, cheap and super effective way to delay turning on your central heating, but one that is all too often overlooked – heating yourself rather than your surroundings.

Stephen Hankinson has some tips for me here. 'I'm not just suggesting that you simply put on a jumper – though that certainly helps! Instead of immediately turning up the thermostat when you feel cold, consider some cheaper alternatives. A hot water bottle is ideal for cosy evenings and costs around 6p to fill by boiling the kettle. Or, for colder nights or a more high-tech option, a heated blanket is great. Running one for an hour at full power only costs about 8p.'

Georges Cornah, owner of Warm4Less, also points out the benefits of heating the room you in are rather than the whole house. 'You might only need to heat one or two rooms at a time. That might be the kitchen in the morning, your home office during the day, and the living room in the evening. Running the full central heating system to heat only one or two people in a room is quite inefficient.'

6. Looking at the alternatives to central heating

While on the topic of heating rooms as opposed to the entire house, one thing I did last year was to invest in a little electric fan heater that I popped next to my desk. This worked brilliantly to keep me warm, but it it's also worth noting that on receiving my electricity bill, its use was all to evident – the message? Check out the best electric heaters before making a purchase. I also tried a Probreeze oil-filled radiator which was a great success with lower running costs.

'When it comes to electric heaters, the plug-in types are usually more expensive to run than central heating, and with electricity costing 3-4 times more than gas (the current Ofgem price cap puts electricity at 26.32p per kWh whereas gas is capped at 7.97p), the costs can soon add up if one of these is run for a few hours,' points out Ant Langston, bathroom and heating expert at HeatandPlumb.com. 'The heat will also disappear fairly quickly when they are turned off.'

Georges Cornah is keen to extoll the benefits of infrared heaters, which can be one of the cheapest electric heaters to run. 'Instead of warming air like most convection heating (central heating included) they warm objects directly. That includes, walls, floors, furniture, furnishings, and people so you feel the benefit almost straight away. You don’t have to wait for the air to get warm before you feel warm. Another benefit is that you install them on your ceiling to save wall space. Or you can get mirror or picture heaters so they blend in with your décor – you wouldn’t even know they were heaters.'

Shop central heating alternatives

7. Being smarter about how I use my heating

And, finally, I am aware that there will come a point when turning on the central heating becomes inevitable. However, I really need to know the most efficient way to heat a house as, due to a combination of radiators that are too small, or are located behind doors or furniture, even when we do switch it on, it doesn't always make the difference we'd hope.

Georges Cornah has a tip that I definitely plan on using. 'If you have a radiator fitted to an external wall, try mounting a reflective panel behind it. This will reflect the heat back into the room instead of escaping outwards. It’s a cheap, one-off fix that’s worth doing before it starts to get cold.'

Stephen Hankinson also advised me to take a look at my central heating schedule ahead of winter. 'If you work from home on specific days, set your heating to turn on automatically in your office during that time. If you're out all week but want a warm start to your mornings, program it to heat up just before you wake and switch off when you leave. Also, if you're away for a night or a few days, adjust your schedule to avoid wasting energy heating an empty home.'

FAQs

When should you turn your heating on for autumn?

If you are now at the point where you are wondering when is the best time to turn on your central heating, the experts also want to share their advice on this.

'There’s not fixed date. Some say you should turn the heating on when the daily average temperature falls below 15°C (59°F). Others say you should set your thermostat at 18°C,' says Georges Cornah. 'But we’re all different and some of use feel the cold more than others. If you start to feel cold more often than you feel warm, turn the central heating on.'

'There isn’t a one-size-fits-all answer to when you should turn on your heating, as it varies from person to person,' agrees Stephen Hankinson. 'However, the NHS suggests that once temperatures fall below 15°C, it’s a good idea to start heating your home. Ideally, aim to keep your living spaces at a minimum of 18°C (65°F), although many people prefer their living rooms to be a bit warmer.'

Now is the ideal time to carry out a few boiler checks – there are certain signs that your boiler is about to stop working and being aware of them right now will save you lots of heartache once the weather takes a turn for the colder.

With mornings and evenings feeling decidedly chilly, I'm definitely feeling the need for a burst of heat around my home. But I don't necessarily want to rely on my central heating for that just yet.

That's where the best electric heaters can come in. And recently, I have been trying out the Morphy Richards HeatFlux 1.5kW Ceramic Fan Heater, which has quickly become one of my favourites I've ever tested.

In a nutshell

This compact 1.5kW ceramic heater from Morphy Richards is designed to fit easily on a table top and warm smaller rooms up to 15m2. That makes it ideal for a bedroom or home office, where you might need a heat boost in between your central heating schedule.

Thanks to a ceramic heating element, it's quiet to use and heats up quickly, meaning you don't waste energy waiting for it to heat up and you to feel the benefits.

It's got three different heat settings, plus an eco mode and a fan-only option, which gives you plenty to customise it's output to your chosen comfort levels.

With an RRP of £49.99, it comes in two colourways, black and grey (although the control panel section on the grey version is black, which gives it a two-tone appearance).

How I tested

Specification

• Type of heater: Ceramic fan heater
• RRP: £49.99
• Weight: 1.4kg
• Dimensions (W x H x D): 15.8 x 24.5 x 15.8cm
• Wattage: 1.5kW
• Running costs per hour: 39p (based on the July 2026 energy price cap)
• Room size suitability: up to 15m2
• Smart features: None
• Dual functionality: Fan and heater
• Oscillation: None

Unboxing, setting up and first impressions

Right off the bat, I loved how there is barely a stitch of plastic in the packaging of the Morphy Richards HeatFlux 1.5kW Ceramic Fan Heater. Apart from a plastic cover over the prongs of the plug, there is no other plastic to be seen. It's largely cardboard packaging, with paper or fabric covering the heater itself. I'm definitely holding on to the fabric bag it comes in to use as a dust bag when it's not in use over the summer months.

Better still, there is no set up involved, I simply needed to plug it in and I was ready to go.

As I was positioning it where I wanted, I was struck by how light it was. I found it super easy to move around single handedly. Combined with the integrated handle on the back, it's an absolute doddle to move around. It's also really compact compared to other electric heaters I've tested, like the Mill WiFi Max 1500W Portable Electric Heater or the Vonhaus Electric Stove & Log Store, which means it sits easily on a table top without taking up too much space – ideal for smaller homes where space is at a premium.

As with most electric heaters I've tried, it did produce a bit of a metallic smell the first few times I used it, but this dissipated quickly and is completely normal.

What’s it like to use?

There's a lot I appreciated about this heater. It's surprisingly quiet, measuring around 48dB on my decibel meter, which is the equivalent of gentle background noise. It's not utterly silent, but it's definitely quiet enough to not be bothersome. When I used it in my home office, I found that I could still concentrate. You could definitely have this on while watching TV too, without needing to turn the volume up.

Another bonus for using it in the bedroom is that it has an option to dim the display by 50%. While it's not exactly like Blackpool Illuminations at full brightness, this is a nice touch for anyone who is bothered by lights while they are trying to sleep.

I loved how quickly it took the chilly edge off my space too. I used it in my bedroom as I was getting up, and found I definitely dreaded sticking my toe out of my nice warm bed much less. There's no timer to set the fan to come on, so leaving the remote next to my bed was ideal.

Once I was up, I'd take it downstairs and pop it on in my home office for 10 minutes to take the chill off in there while I was having my breakfast. It kicks out heat instantly so there's no waiting for it to warm up. When we get into the depths of winter, I'll make more use of the timer function so that I can programme it to turn off automatically preventing me from leaving it on for longer than necessary.

I like that you don't have to position this fan right next to you to feel it's benefits. I was sat a good five feet away from it in my office, and the warm air hadn't turned into a chilly breeze, meaning I didn't find myself putting it on a higher heat setting or having it on for longer than I really needed. Both my bedroom and home office are smaller than the recommended room size of 15m2, which was essential for me to get the optimum benefits. I did try this heater out in my larger living room, and while it did an admirable job, it's definitely not the most energy efficient way for me to use it.

From a safety perspective, it will not only shut off automatically if it overheats, but it also shuts off it is knocked over. Even without knocking it over, it automatically cut out when I lifted it after turning it on, which will ease the mind of anyone concerned about an electric heater being a fire hazard.

While there are a lot of positives about this heater, I did have a couple of small niggles. Firstly, I was slightly confused by the different modes (this may be down to me liking to use the controls intuitively before delving into the instructions to see how clear they are). Despite a clear control panel, I was expecting to be able to choose a target temperature, regardless of which heat mode I was in, but instead this is only possible in Eco Mode.

Once I understood this, it's really simple to operate this heater. You have the same options and capabilities on the remote as on the on-board controls, which I appreciate, especially as I move this fan between rooms, but sometimes forget to take the remote with me.

When it comes to the heat modes, there are three options, low, medium and high, although to be there didn't seem to be a lot of noticeable difference between them. Whichever I chose, the heat kicked out instantly, and was ideal for that first blast of heat before I'd switch to the Eco Mode to have more control over the temperature setting.

Secondly, while the design is minimal and inoffensive, it's not quite up there in the style stakes as, say, the Swan 1.5kW Retro Ceramic Heater, that has a cool 1950s-inspired aesthetic.

And lastly, while this heater does have a fan-only function, which means it has potential to be used year round, for me, this function doesn't really compare to my favourite fan to use in the bedroom, the ultra quiet Duux Whisper Flex 2.

What are the running costs like?

Based on the energy price cap that was in place at the time of writing, this electric heater costs around 39p per hour to run, so it's definitely best to use in conjunction with your central heating, rather than as a replacement, otherwise that would turn out very expensive indeed.

It does offer an Eco mode, however, where you can set a target temperature. Once that temperature is reached, the heater will switch into fan mode, which is more energy efficient. This would be the mode I use most often. I'd use the heat modes to take the chill of a room to begin with, and then switch to the eco setting for more prolonged use.

Cleaning and maintenance

Apart from a regular dust, there's not much needed in terms of cleaning or maintenance.

It's a good idea to store it in it's original packaging, or even an old pillowcase when not in use to keep it dust-free and protected.

Who should buy the Morphy Richards HeatFlux 1.5kW Ceramic Heater?

If, like me, your bedroom is starting to feel a bit chilly at certain times of the day, then this compact Morphy Richards heater will be right up your street. It's quiet, doesn't take up loads of space, and is ideal for a smaller space.

For something similar at a more affordable price point, we regularly see the Dreo Atom 316, which has the same RRP of £49.99, available for around the £40 mark, which might be a more suitable option for those on tighter budgets.

However, if you want something better suited to a larger room, then we also really liked Morphy Richards tower heater offering, the HeatFlux Ultra Thin 2kW Ceramic Tower Fan. As well as being more powerful, this floor standing design oscillates, which means it can evenly and quickly heat rooms up to 20m2.

As someone who writes about renovating and home energy on a daily basis, I have a wish list as long as my arm of energy efficient and bill-reducing upgrades I want to make to my home. But given my available budget, many of these upgrades are going to be on the wish list for a while.

So imagine my excitement when I realised plug-in solar panels, an affordable alternative to rooftop panels, were now legal in the UK. Available to buy at places like Amazon, Argos and Octopus from around the £460 mark, these panels are designed to be installed on a DIY basis, and simply plugged into a household socket.

While they can't generate as much solar power as traditional solar panels, the Government states that plug-in solar panels can help reduce energy bills by around £110 per year, with panels providing up to 20% of average home electricity use. That sounded like a good start on my wish list to me!

Despite covering various aspects of plug-in solar panels as part of my role here at Ideal Home, including how you assess their suitability, I was convinced that my home would be an ideal candidate. My house is late 1970s and has a sunny garden, outdoor plug sockets. Result.

However, it's always advisable to get a qualified electrician to check your electrics and make sure they are compatible with plug-in solar panels. While I was waiting for my local electrician to come back to me, I did some more research and found a quick check that I could do myself.

Electrical Safety First had released some guidance on plug-in solar panels, in which it advised: 'Given unresolved concerns about the potential impact of plug-in solar panels on certain RCDs, we recommend households have at least a Type A bidirectional RCD protecting circuits intended for use with plug-in solar panels.

'Until these concerns are addressed, homes with Type AC RCDs should not use plug-in solar systems without first upgrading to a minimum Type A bidirectional RCD on those circuits.'

And I'll be honest, as I'm not an electrician, some of that terminology went right over my head. But the key part that stood out for me was 'bidirectional'. Plug-in solar panels send electricity into your sockets, so that said to me that if my set up was not bidirectional, then that would be a problem.

So I went to my circuit board to see if there was anything obvious on there that would suggest it was a bidirectional set up (by, you know, saying 'this is a bidirectional set up'). Sadly, there was no such luck. However, I did spot that on my circuit board, the RCD (Residual Current Device) switch and the smaller MCBs (Miniature Circuit Breakers) all had a brand name and/or codes on them. After snapping a photo of them while I waited for the electrician, I thought I'd give them a Google and see if they were bidirectional-current friendly.

And my optimism quickly faded. There in black and white was the word 'unidirectional'. And the advice to resolve the issue? Upgrade the circuit board, at a cost of around £900-1,200. All of a sudden, my budget-friendly plans were considerably less friendly.

Newer properties may have bidirectional circuit boards already, and if your Google checks suggest that's the case, I would still advise you to get an electrician to confirm.

Now, I don't share this to put anyone off getting plug-in solar panels, quite the opposite, in fact. I am really passionate about energy saving measures being more accessible to more people, especially those who rent, live in flats or are on a tight budget.

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Instead I share this to encourage anyone considering this kind of tech to be more to be aware of just how necessary the electrical checks are before you commit to buying the panels. Plugging solar panels into a unidirectional circuit can cause damage and pose a potential fire hazard, and if you haven't followed the advice on getting your wiring checked by a qualified electrician, then you run the risk of voiding your home insurance policy.

Heat pumps are growing in popularity and are more readily available than ever before. And as homeowners get more comfortable with what this home tech can offer in terms of efficiency, warmth and eco credentials, we could see more and more heat pumps added to homes around the country.

But what happens if you're neighbour objects to your heat pump plans? Could they put a pause in your plans, or scupper them altogether? I spoke to the experts about the objections that may have merit, and what you can do to to resolve any issues so both you and your neighbour are happy.

Can my neighbour object to me installing a heat pump?

While your neighbour can't object to you installing a heat pump just because they don't want you to do it, there are a couple of instances where they could have a valid objection.

1. Planning permission

In many cases, you can install a heat pump (either air source or ground source) under Permitted Development, which means you don't need to submit a planning application. However, especially in the case of air source heat pumps, there are some exceptions, and if your planned installation lands among those exceptions, and you don't secure planning permission, then your neighbour could rightly object.

These exceptions cover things like:

• Where you live
• How many external units you plan on installing
• How big they are
• Where on your property you plan on installing them.

For example, installing a heat pump is unlikely to fall under Permitted Development (PD) if you live in a Listed building or in a designated zone like an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty or National Park. In these cases, your PD rights may have been limited or removed altogether, meaning you will need to apply for planning permission.

Whether your property is detached or not, will also play a part in the how many external units you can add under PD. If you live in a detached property, you can install a maximum of two. If the property is not detached, you can only install one.

To be classed as PD, the external unit fitted on a house cannot exceed 1.5m3 in volume (0.6m3 on a flat).

The Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (England) Order 2015 also stipulates certain positions of your heat pump that would require planning permission, including installation on a pitched roof, or within 1m of the external edge of a flat roof.

'Most heat pump installations can be carried out under permitted development rights, meaning planning permission is not usually required,’ explains James Fowler Marketing & Strategy Director at Vaillant UK. ‘However, there are specific criteria that must be met depending on whether the system is an air, ground or water source heat pump, as well as where the property is located in the UK. The rules differ between England, Wales, Northern Ireland and Scotland, and homeowners should always ensure their installation complies with local requirements. A neighbour could have a legitimate objection if the required permissions have not been obtained.'

While your neighbour may have the opportunity to voice their objections if you go down the planning permission route, ultimately, the decision rests with your local authority. Before you begin the installation process, make sure you check the planning guidance carefully and if you are in any doubt, speak to your local authority for specific advice in your area.

If you need planning permission and don't secure it, you may be able to submit a retrospective planning application, but there is no guarantee that this will be approved, and you could end up having to remove your heat pump at your own cost.

2. Noise

Your neighbour might object on the ground that they are worried about how noisy the heat pump will be, but provided it's installed properly and in line with planning rules, then you should be able to assuage their worries.

'Noise is probably one of the biggest misconceptions around heat pumps,’ says Rick Clarke, Product Manager at NIBE UK. ‘Modern air source heat pumps are designed for residential environments and can operate at very low sound levels. Government research has found that noise complaints associated with air source heat pumps are uncommon, with the small number identified in its research linked to issues such as poor-quality installation, location and proximity.

'There are also clear safeguards in place. For an air source heat pump installed under permitted development rights in England, the installation must comply with the MCS planning standard. This includes a sound assessment, with a permitted development noise limit of 37 dB(A) at the relevant assessment position.

'For homeowners who are particularly conscious of sound, independent certification can provide further reassurance.'

Looking for heat pumps that have the Quiet Mark certification is a great starting point, for both you and your neighbour. Try the Quiet Mark Certified Heat Pumps Guide 2026.

'Quiet Mark's 2026 Heat Pump Survey by YouGov found that two-thirds of people say noise would influence their decision to install a heat pump and it would stop almost a quarter from getting one altogether,’ says Poppy Szkiler, CEO Founder of Quiet Mark. ‘Our acoustics team at Quiet Mark - the certification programme for the world’s quietest products - has whittled down a bewildering choice of more than 850 heat pumps on the market, where 60 per cent of all heat pumps fell short of our Quiet Mark criteria.

'Over 15 years we have built market-wide databases and scrutinised manufacturers’ claims on sound levels using standardised tests, from which we certify the models that emit the lowest noise levels.'

But while you can work with your proposed installer to choose a quiet heat pump, other factors should be included in your decision. 'As with any piece of equipment, specification and installation matter. Choosing a low-noise product, correctly sizing the system and thinking carefully about where the outdoor unit is positioned all contribute to keeping sound levels low,' adds Rick. Make sure you choose a reputable installer who will be able to advise on the best placement that will work for both you and your neighbour.

3. Proximity to your boundary with your neighbour

Your neighbour may voice concerns over how close your heat pump will be to the boundary between your two properties. While this may have been a blocker 18 months ago. Fortunately it's no longer the case. It used to be that planning rules stated a heat pump couldn't be installed within 1m of a boundary, but that criteria was removed in May 2025, in order to accelerate the take up of heat pumps.

However, if it is going to be close to a boundary, you will need to ensure that your neighbour doesn't have anything on their side that could block the air circulation around your heat pump that will impact how effectively it works.

Having clear, friendly and early communication with both your neighbour, and taking into account any concerns they may have about positioning, which you can then discuss with your installer, will help keep everyone happy.

4. Nuisance

If you stay on the right side of the rules above, then there shouldn't be much for your neighbour left to object to. However, if your installation impacts them negatively in their home, it could be a different story.

They can't just say it negatively impacts them, they would have to provide evidence. 'If you wish to take action against your neighbour yourself, you will need to provide evidence that installation of the pump has caused a ‘nuisance’ in the legal sense,' explains Paula Moses, Legal Director in the Commercial Dispute Resolution team at Blacks Solicitors LLP. 'This means that it impinges on the use and enjoyment of your property if, for example, it makes a loud noise or releases emissions.

'However, it is also important to establish evidence of a legitimate nuisance before pursuing a claim, particularly where maintaining a positive relationship with your neighbours is important.'

Again, if you have had good communication with your neighbour throughout your heat pump installation process, should they have any issues once it's in place, they are more likely to come to you so you in a similar manner so issues can be resolve amicably and without legal intervention.

What's the best way to avoid objections from neighbours when installing a heat pump?

If you are worried about potential conflict with neighbours over your heat pump plans, the good news is that there is a lot within your control to help quiet those objections, leaving both you and your neighbour happy.

'The best starting point is a good-quality installation, say NIBE UK's Rick. 'The installer should select the right system for the property, assess where the outdoor unit should go and consider the surrounding environment as part of the design.

'If the unit is going to be positioned particularly close to a neighbouring property, there is also no harm in having a conversation beforehand. Sometimes simply explaining what is being installed and addressing any misconceptions about how much sound a modern heat pump actually makes can provide reassurance.

'Ultimately, concerns about neighbours shouldn’t put homeowners off considering a heat pump. With the right product, thoughtful siting and a quality installation, a heat pump can provide low-carbon heating without causing disruption to the people living around you.'

Since the Government announced plug-in solar panels were legal to buy and use in August this year, generating solar power at home is more accessible than ever before. However, this doesn’t mean that you can go and position your plug-in solar panels wherever you fancy - in fact, experts are warning against this one place in particular.

Now you can buy plug-in solar panels to harness solar energy without relying on traditional roof panels. They’re less expensive than rooftop panels and better suited to rentals and flats.

This all sounds great, right? And those of us looking to generate solar power may be eyeing up our shed roofs as a prime spot for plug-in solar. But it’s not, and positioning your plug-in solar panel here could even be dangerous.

Can you put a plug-in solar panel on a shed?

In the same way you shouldn’t put a plug-in solar panel on a fence, you also shouldn't position one on a roof, as they are both made of wood.

‘Homeowners may want to put a plug-in solar panel on their shed roof because of the angle the solar panel would lie. It’s best practice to have a tilt of around 30 to 40 degrees to ensure the sunlight is being captured properly, and a shed roof may provide that. However, homeowners are encouraged to consider wall-mounted solar panels or another surface, such as a balcony, to house their solar panels,’ says Alvaro Iturmendi, Uswitch solar energy expert.

‘Plug-in solar panels shouldn’t be installed on anything wooden, including gates, sheds, or shed roofs, due to the potential increased fire risk. This is due to components potentially overheating and causing a fire to start, with timber being a very combustible material.’

As you are dealing with electricals, it’s important to ensure your electricals are not in constant contact with flammable materials, like wood, as excess heat generated can act as a fire risk. However, if your shed is not made from wood, it could be used to house your plug-in solar panel, but it is worth checking with a professional first - especially if you have older wiring or need an outdoor socket installed.

‘Before installing anything, check the direction of the shed roof and how much shade it receives from nearby trees and buildings. You should also inspect the shed itself, ensuring the structure is in good condition, and the roof is strong enough to carry the additional weight,’ says Garden shed expert Sam Jenkinson, from garden building retailer Tiger.

‘You’ll also need a suitable mains socket to safely plug the solar panel into. The cable run should be short and safe, without extension leads stretching across the garden.

‘Once installed, each system must be registered with your local Distribution Network Operator. It’s also important to check whether you need permission from your landlord, freeholder or your local council before installing.’

Shop compliant plug-in solar panels

While plug-in solar offer ample opportunity to save energy and money on your bills. However, safety should always be your number one priority.

Deciding whether a plug-in solar panel is the right investment for your home will understandably depend on various factors, but a key consideration will be how much energy your panels can actually generate.

When it comes to plug-in solar panels, it's worth understanding how they differ from traditional rooftop solar panels. They are significantly more affordable and easier to install, but as a result, can generate much less energy.

So before you buy a plug-in solar panel, I've spoken to the experts to find out exactly how much power these devices can make, and the appliances it can power, as well as those it can't to help you decide if it's the right choice for your home.

How much power can plug-in solar panels generate?

So what kind of output can you expect from a plug-in solar panel? 'A typical plug-in solar panel has a rated output of between 100 and 400 watts, but real-world generation is always lower than the rated figure,’ explains John Collett, Director, Quantum Renewables.

‘In the UK, a 400-watt panel will generate somewhere between 250 and 320 watt-hours on a clear summer day. In winter or overcast conditions, that drops to 50 to 100 watt-hours. The actual figure depends on panel orientation, shading, the angle of installation and the efficiency of the inverter converting the electricity for household use.'

But in real life, what can you actually do with that output?

What appliances can plug-in solar panels power and for how long?

'A plug-in solar kit isn’t going to take you off-grid but it can make a difference to your bills,’ says Hemal Morjaria, Chief Commercial Officer at City Plumbing. ‘The best way to think about it is that it can reduce the amount of electricity your home needs to draw from the grid, rather than directly powering individual appliances.

'Their output changes throughout the day depending on sunlight, shade, the direction of the panel and the time of year. Plug-in solar kits do not store energy, so any electricity they produce must be used immediately, or it will flow back to the grid.'

But if it helps you to understand their output in terms of appliances, then your plug-in solar panels could power:

1. An LED TV for around 4-5 hours
2. A laptop multiple times
3. An energy efficient fridge for around 3 hours
4. A phone charger all day
5. Your Wi-Fi router
6. A games console, like an Xbox S

'A 400-watt panel generating 300 watt-hours on a good day could run an LED television for around four to five hours, charge a laptop three or four times, power an energy-efficient fridge for approximately three hours or run a phone charger essentially all day,' says John.

'It is not enough to make a meaningful dent in a household's total consumption, but used strategically to offset specific appliances during daylight hours it provides a genuine, measurable reduction in energy drawn from the grid.'

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Which appliances can't plug-in solar panels power?

You're more heavy hitting heat-generating appliances, or those you tend to use when the sun has gone down, won't be powered by your solar panels.

• Tumble dryers
• Washing machines
• Electric showers
• EV chargers
• Ovens

While plug-in panels are most beneficial for those appliances always running in the background, they won't generate enough power for more energy-hungry appliances, as Brian Davenport, solar lighting expert and Co-Founder of The Solar Centre, which will soon be launching its own plug-in solar panels, explains: ‘It typically won’t be enough to run appliances like kettles, washing machines on longer cycles and electric heaters at the same time as other appliances.'

FAQs

It's all well and good if you want to start generating your own energy at home, but what if your neighbour objects to your plans for putting a plug-in solar panel on your fence?

Now that plug-in solar panels are available to buy in the UK, at home solar power generation is more accessible than ever before, but in order to get the most from these panels, you need to position them well to maximise the daylight they receive.

But what if you chosen spot sparks objection from your neighbour? I asked the experts about whether your neighbour has grounds to complain and what you should do about it.

Can my neighbour object to a plug-in solar panel on a fence?

There are certain circumstances where your neighbour can legitimately object to you attaching your plug-in solar panels to a fence, including where they pose a fire risk, negatively impact your neighbour or flout planning rules.

'There are two main considerations to this question: first, public and planning law and secondly, private nuisance,' explains Paula Moses, Legal Director in the Commercial Dispute Resolution team at Blacks Solicitors LLP. 'Where planning permission is required, such as in certain circumstances involving panels on the front of a property, neighbours may be notified as part of the planning process and given the opportunity to raise objections. Ultimately, however, the decision on whether the installation can proceed rests only with your local authority.

'If your neighbour is disputing your solar panel installation, or you are considering taking action over a neighbour’s panels, simply finding them unsightly would not usually be enough to establish a legal claim.'

1. Fire safety

Your neighbour could object on the grounds of your chosen plug-in solar panel positioning or installation posing a fire hazard, and you'd be wise to heed their objection and choose an alternative position for your panels.

The London Fire Brigade has issued advice on how to use plug-in solar panels safely, including: 'Keep any combustible materials away from your solar panels, batteries, inverters or electrical connections. Sparks, flames and heat from electrical faults can ignite nearby materials and allow fire to spread rapidly.'

Neighbours could also object on the grounds of you buying non-compliant panels, installing the panels incorrectly, or misusing them, which could also lead to a safety issue. Should the worst happen, you could also find that your house insurance is voided if you have used or installed your panels in the wrong way.

To avoid this, make sure you install your plug-in solar panels correctly, following the manufacturer's instructions to the letter. Use only as intended, and if you need an outdoor plug adding, or your electrics checked, make sure you use a qualified electrician.

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2. Planning rules

As planning rules have recently been updated, if your installation falls foul of the rules, your neighbour can object. And you might actually be glad they did, as it would give you time to reposition the panel(s) before you find yourself on the receiving end of an enforcement notice from the local council.

Under Part 14 of the The Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (England) Order 2015, which covers the 'installation or alteration etc of solar equipment on domestic premises' new provisions have been added since plug-in solar panels because legal in the UK.

The changes say that the installation of plug-in solar panels 'where any part of the plug-in solar would be installed on a wooden wall, balcony or enclosure or on any part of the exterior of a dwellinghouse where that part is clad in timber' is not classed as permitted development. That means you would need to seek planning permission from your local authority, which can be a time-consuming and expensive task, with no guarantee of approval.

If you do plan on going down the route of obtaining planning permission, you should check who owns the fence, as if it's your neighbour's, your plans could be a moot point.

3. Nuisance issues

You're neighbour could have a legitimate reason to object if your installation will negatively impact them in their home, or if it encroaches on a boundary.

'To amount to a “nuisance” in the legal sense, the panels would need to interfere with your ability to use and enjoy your property,' says Paula. 'For example, if the solar panels reflected sunlight directly into a room and this significantly affected your ability to use it during the day, this could potentially amount to a nuisance. Equally, if a neighbour objects to your panels, it is important to understand that their objection alone does not necessarily mean the installation is actionable.'

Having open communication with your neighbour about your plans and preparing to compromise if necessary is key to avoiding any disputes.

'Be considerate when choosing a location for plug-in panels and factor in how options could impact neighbours,' says Brian Davenport, solar lighting expert and Co-Founder of The Solar Centre.'Even though it isn’t a legal requirement, it could be worth talking to a neighbour about where you want to place it to avoid conflict.'

Fences aren't ideal anyway

Beyond avoiding a potential fire risk or issues with the local planning authority, your neighbours objects to you putting a plug-in solar panel on a fence could also mean you get more out of your panels.

'Fences are generally not suitable for plug-in solar panels for two reasons,’ explains John Collett, Director at Quantum Renewables. ‘First, most garden fences are not structurally designed to bear the additional load and wind forces that a panel creates, particularly over time. Second, a fence is rarely oriented optimally for solar generation.

'Ground mounting in a clear, open garden space is often better than a constrained wall or fence position, provided the panel cannot be easily damaged or stolen.'

If you are set on the idea of position on the fence, then it might be worth considering an alternative like these Jaksun Solar Fence Panel from Jacksons Fencing.

Can you install plug-in solar panels on a shed roof instead?

Whether you can install plug-in solar panels on a shed roof is a bit of a point of contention. Sheds are not specifically mentioned in the updated planning rules, unlike fences and gates, but could come under the umbrella of 'enclosures' that are mentioned in the new planning rules.

‘While sheds can seem like a good location for plug-in panels, particularly if the roof gets plenty of direct sunlight, homeowners need to check the small print first,’ explains Sam Jenkinson, from garden building retailer Tiger. ‘The new rules include a specific condition for plug-in solar: it cannot be installed on a wooden wall, balcony or enclosure, or on a timber-clad part of the exterior of the dwellinghouse.

‘As the vast majority of UK garden sheds are timber-built, this could rule out a straightforward installation for many households, even where the roof and sunlight would otherwise be perfect.'

To ensure your installation is compliant, it's worthwhile checking with your local authority before you buy to avoid any disappointment or unintentional rule breaking.

Where's the best place to position a plug-in solar panel?

The ideal place to position your plug-in solar panel will depend on where gets the most sun, where the shade is, and how you plan on mounting it.

'For best performance, you’re looking for an unshaded position with good sun exposure,' says Kian Milroy, renewables electrical engineer at Heatable. 'In the UK, south facing panels usually give the best annual generation but south-east and south-west are still very decent.'

John Collett agrees, saying: 'The best position is south-facing at an angle of 30 to 40 degrees with no shading from trees, buildings or other roof features at any point during the day.'

But if you don't have a south facing garden or balcony, all is not lost. 'East or west-facing positions generate around 20 per cent less output but are still viable, explains John. 'North-facing is the worst orientation and generally not worth the effort in the UK as the panel will rarely receive direct sunlight.'

According to Kian, you decision on the right placement should equally consider proximity to electrical connection, weather exposure and the mounting if you want to maximise the benefits.

As much as we’d like to cling to the warm memories of summer, the reality is that we should start preparing for the cooler months ahead. If you’re following the principle of ‘heating the human’ this winter, Dunelm’s Small Olive Square Heater (£30) is a solid and surprisingly stylish choice.

When temperatures plummet, one of the best electric heaters can help keep you warm without turning to your thermostat. With energy prices set to rise from October, one way to curb rising costs is to follow Martin Lewis’ advice of ‘heating the human,’ not the home. This means instead of turning your thermostat up and heating your whole home, make changes that heat you, the human, such as a small heater when working from home.

Not only is Dunem’s Small Olive Square Heater well reviewed for its heating power, but its retro design is possibly the most stylish portable heating option I’ve ever seen. Here’s why I think it’s a solid, affordable choice for your home this winter.

Before I get into the nitty-gritty specifications of this heater, I want to start by saying that Dunelm has really nailed the design. Olive green has been a huge colour trend this year as we seek to introduce grounding, earthy tones to our homes. Unlike a standard white or black gloss heater, which can look glaringly obvious in a space, the olive green colourway has a more subtle look, so it is more likely to blend into or complement a room.

An electric heater will complement your existing central heating system rather than replacing it. It’s great for when you want to heat one room, rather than crank up the thermostat and heat the whole house. Dunelm’s square heater doesn’t have all the bells and whistles of the leading heaters on the market (our best rated is the Morphy Richards HeatFlux, Tower Fan Heater, £89.99, B&Q), but this is to be expected at its £30 price point.

What it does offer is an adjustable thermostat, fan-assisted heating and 1500w of heating power. Don’t expect it to heat large rooms; it is a tabletop heater after all, but it is perfect for warming up home offices, small bedrooms and, of course, you. It's cheap to run, too, costing around 39p per hour, according to Ideal Home's Energy Calculator.

Some reviews do mention that the heater comes with a safety leaflet that warns you should never place the heater on carpet. In its product description, Dunelm does say this heater is suitable for placement on desks, so ensure you avoid carpeted areas upon purchasing. What the reviews do say is that this heater offers impressive heating power.

'Its great powerful mini heater. Warms up room very quickly and design is very adorable. The only reason why one star missing its because of "Caution leaflet". Says "it must stand on solid, non flammable surface. DO NOT stand the heater on carpet"... This is UK, every single room has carpets, everywhere, where else I am supose to put it then?' says one.

'I needed a small heater that I could move from room to room to take the chill off. This was ideal and it throws out a great heat too. It was very welcome at work recently, when the office heating broke down...' said another.

At £30, the Dunelm Small Olive Square Heater is a great affordable choice for those of us looking to reduce our heating costs. However, if it’s not the right model for you, here are three more options Ideal Home’s reviewers have tested and rave about.

Dunelm's little heater is both stylish and affordale. And with good reviews to boot, it is definitely worth a try.

Now that they are legal in the UK, where can you buy plug-in solar panels, how much can you expect to pay and when will they arrive? I've found all the places you can order them right now and when you can expect them to be delivered, as well as highlighting the places you may be able to buy them very soon.

Plug-in solar panels have been big news over the last few months. While they are widely used in other parts of Europe, especially in flats where a rooftop array of panels would not be possible, they weren't legally available in the UK. But now legislation has been changed and that means this technology is available to UK households for the first time.

As well as being considerably more affordable than traditional rooftop solar panels, which will make solar power generation a realistic prospect for many more households, these panels are designed to be incredibly easy to fit, without the need for a engineer to fit them for you. (Although depending on the age of your home, plug-in solar panels could prove dangerous so it make me worth consulting with a qualified electrician to make sure your electrics are compatible with this kind of tech).

Below I've listed the retailers that are currently selling plug-in solar panels, as well as the ones that should be offering them soon. It's best to buy from a reputable retailer rather than through a third-party marketplace so that you can ensure the model you buy is compliant with UK regulations. You can also check that it's listed on the Energy Networks Association (ENA) Type Test Register, which lists compliant power generation and equipment approved for connection to the UK's public electricity network.

Argos

Soon after the legislation updates around plug-in solar panels came into effect at the end of August, Argos was the first retailer I spotted to sell them online.

Right now, it has six different UKSOL plug-in solar panel kits, ranging from £599 to £999 in price. The most affordable kit Argos has right now is the UKSOL 515w Pro Compact Plug In Solar Panel With Hybrid Mount Bundle, which comes with a 515W panel, an 800W smart microinverter (which allows you to monitor the panel's performance through an app on your phone), an adjustable mounting frame and the connections you need to get started.

'We’re really pleased to now offer plug-in solar panels for Argos customers,' says Graham Biggart, Managing Director for Argos. 'By making this technology more accessible, we’re putting more power in the hands of our customers and helping them explore practical ways to manage energy use at home.'

Amazon

Is there anything you can't get on Amazon? The mega retailer is offering two compliant plug-in solar panels options from Modular Solar.

The most affordable is a 340W plug-in solar panel at £465, with a 475W version available for £650.

The panels come fully assembled and just need to be plugged into a suitable outdoor socket. Amazon also flags that these items come with specialised customer support, which will be a relief for those getting to grips with this new tech.

Even if you are a Prime member, however, you won't be able to get next day delivery with these panels. At the time of writing, the dispatch time was four to five days from the point of purchase.

Octopus Energy

Octopus is also offering one or two panel plug-in solar kits starting from £450 for a single panel kit, which includes a 460W panel, microinverter, 5m cable and three-pin plug. The panels can be mounted on a wall or at ground level, are designed to capture sunlight from both sides, and any power generation can e tracked in the Octopus app.

The system is designed for simple DIY installation, meaning customers can easily set it up themselves in just an hour and even take it with them if they decide to move.

Rebecca Dibb-Simkin, Chief Product and Marketing Officer at Octopus, says: 'Plug-in solar democratises cheaper energy, making sure everyone can shrink their bill while helping build a greener grid.'

The energy provider has also announced that it will soon launch a plug-in battery to help households store any unused solar energy they generate.

Very

Very is also selling five UKSOL plug-in solar panel kits, which is very similar to the offering from Argos. The bundles range from the most affordable 515W kit (£599) up to an 890W two-panel ground mounted set up that, at the time of writing, was reduced from £1199 to £999.

Estimated delivery times depends on the bundle you choose, with dates ranging from mid-September to mid-November 2026.

Screwfix

Screwfix also has plug-in solar panels available to buy from PowerXpress. The UK-regulation compliant package contains two 460W panels, an adjustable mounting bracket that can attach to walls, ground or balcony, and an 800W micro-inverter, and is available for £669, with delivery in around five days.

I have spotted that the same kit bought directly from PowerXpress for £599, but with £90 delivery charges added on top, this is a more expensive way to buy.

City Plumbing

City Plumbing has a range of plug-in solar panel kits available, including those from UKSOL.

Prices range from £432 for the Jinko 940W Hoymiles HiFlow Plug In Solar Kit, up to £951.60 for the UKSOL Pro Duo Plug In 890W Solar Kit Ground Mount.

Stock levels will depend on where you live, and delivery times for in-stock kits are around 20 days.

Retailers we expect to sell plug-in solar panels soon

As plug-in solar panels are new to the UK, it can take a little while for them to filter through to the shelves of the retailers. However, when the government first announced in March 2026 that this technology could be available 'within months', it mentioned a few retailers that it had been consulting with on bringing this new tech to the market.

These include:

• B&Q
• British Gas
• Currys
• Lidl
• Sainsbury's
• Wickes

Before you buy a plug-in solar panel...

While a huge draw of plug-in solar panels is that they can be installed on a DIY basis, it is crucial that you follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter. This may mean that you need to get your existing electrical set up checked by a qualified electrician.

'From 27 August, compliant plug-in solar products will be able to connect through a standard UK mains socket under the Government’s new Interim Product Specification,' explains Hemal Morjaria, Chief Commercial Officer at City Plumbing. 'This is an exciting step forward in making solar technology accessible to more households, particularly for people who may not have been able to consider conventional rooftop systems.

'However, ‘plug-in’ doesn’t mean there are no checks or considerations for homeowners. The new specification includes important requirements around electrical safety, fire safety, where and how panels can be installed, and registration with the local network operator.

'For example, homeowners will need to make sure their electrical installation is suitable and has the appropriate modern protection in place, while there are also restrictions around installing panels on certain types of cladding and timber balconies. Anyone who is unsure about their electrics or the suitability of their proposed installation location should seek professional advice before getting started.'

After a roasty, toasty summer, reports suggest that we could be in for a colder than usual winter. And that means we could see a spike in those needing the best electric heaters to support the efforts of their central heating in the most cost-effective way.

But with some heaters costing hundreds of pounds, I've been on the hunt for more budget friendly models that are just as effective at providing warmth when you need it, while also being stylish enough to have on display throughout the colder months. I was thrilled then when I spotted the Swan 1.5kW Retro Ceramic Heater with an RRP of under £50.

This is how it fared when I used it in my own home, and whether I think it's worth your money.

In a nutshell

Swan's 1.5kW Retro Ceramic Heater is a compact and effective appliance that will see you through the colder months.

While it has a 1950s-inspired design with chrome accents and curved shape, there's definitely nothing dated about its capability. With two different heat modes, plus a fan-only option, as well as an adjustable thermostat between 10 and 35°C, it kicks out heat as soon as you turn it on, warming up your space quickly and evenly.

It'll also revert to fan mode when the target temperature is reached, with the heat kicking back in when it detects a 2°C drop in the ambient temperature, which helps you use it in the most energy-efficient way possible.

You can use the timer so you don't have to worry about leaving it on for longer than you need to.

How I tested

Specification

• Type of heater: Ceramic fan heater
• RRP: £44.99
• Weight: 2kg
• Dimensions (W x H x D): 31.2 x 17.8 x 15.5cm
• Wattage: 1500W
• Running costs per hour: up to 39p (based on the July 2026 energy price cap)
• Room size suitability: up to 20m2
• Smart features: None
• Dual functionality: Fan and heater
• Oscillation: None

Unboxing, setting up and first impressions

I appreciated the lightweight and compact nature of the Swan 1.5kW Retro Ceramic Heater from the moment it arrived. Compared to other heating appliances I've tested, this one came in a box that I could carry one handed, rather than nudge with my feet through from the hallway. As someone who's tested everything from large oil-filled radiators to portable air conditioners, this is definitely a nice change.

It was well packaged with cardboard inserts and a plastic bag around the heater itself, and while it was a little tricky to get out of the box (I had to resort to tipping the open box upside down and giving it a little shake in order to get some purchase), it was a matter of just plugging it in before I was set up and ready to go.

There's no WiFi connectivity to set up, which means in less than a minute from opening the box, I had the heater on. As with most electric heaters, there is a bit of a smell on the first couple of uses, but this does disappear after a while.

My first impression was this was one of the best looking electric heaters I've ever seen. I usually see these kinds of appliances as functional, rather than attractive, but the quirky retro design of this Swan heater is right up my street. It's got a mid-grey body, with a chrome grill on the front, and a tan leather handle on the top just behind the small display screen. It sits on chrome legs and comes with a pleasingly simple remote control that echoes the simplicity of the onboard control panel.

Better still, it's smaller than a bread bin, which meant I could easily perch it on the corner of my desk, window ledge or sideboard without any faff.

As well as it's good looks, its so light. I found it really easy to move around wherever I wanted it — hardly any effort required.

What’s it like to use?

To say the Swan 1.5kW Retro Ceramic Heater is easy to use feels like a bit of an understatement. It's so simple I didn't even need to read the instructions. There's an obvious power button, which when pressed shows you the ambient temperature in the room on the display screen, alongside a single dot that showed I was in fan-only mode. Then I pressed the mode button, and a second dot appeared, indicated I was in the 750W heat mode, where I could adjust the target temperature up to a very toasty 35°C. Pressing mode again boosts it into it's highest power (1.5kW) mode.

Given it's simple but effective operation, I also liked that the display screen was small enough to not distract from the retro design aesthetic. When in use, it'll show you the mode you are in (either one, two or three vertical dots that cycle on and off), and the ambient temperature. I like that it flashed the target temperature whenever I changed the settings, it made it very easy to adjust to my ideal comfort levels. With the timer set, it'll slowly cycle between ambient temperature and the timer duration.

As soon as I flipped into heat mode I could feel the heat output instantly, and I left it on in my chilly-first-thing-in-the-morning 12m2 home office with the door closed for five minutes and when I came back it was lovely and warm. After a while, once it had reached my chosen temperature, it reverted back into fan mode, which I was very pleased about seeing as energy prices are set to rise again in October 2026.

While it's quick to heat, even in my larger living room, it's not whisper quiet as it does so. But that doesn't mean it's obnoxiously loud either. I didn't notice a difference in noise level between any of the modes, clocking them all at about 52dB, which is the equivalent of gentle background noise. It's noticeable, but I didn't find it distracting while I was working, and when I used it in my living room, I could still watch TV with it on without having to whack the TV up to a much higher volume.

From a safety point of view, this heater will cut out automatically if it tips over (also if it's lifted while in use), as well as if it overheats, but it's still important to follow the safety instructions. The body of the heater will get hot while it's on, and it'll take a little while to cool down, but fortunately the handle doesn't heat up so you can adjust the positioning if you need to. I made sure to only use it on a solid surface and make sure it had plenty of space around it clear of soft furnishings or anything else that could pose a fire hazard.

There were only a couple of minor things (in my eyes) that I didn't like about this heater. Firstly, the website states that you can use the timer to turn it both on and off, but I didn't find that to be the case, I found that the timer only worked to turn the heater off.

Secondly, when in stand-by mode, the standby symbol flashes on the small display screen, and a couple of times I actually found it a bit distracting when I could see it out of the corner of my eye. It's definitely not a deal breaker, but it feels a little unnecessary.

When it comes to WiFi connectivity and app control that you can get with other heaters, I didn't mind that this retro heater was lacking in that additional complexity. I could just turn it on when I needed it, turn it off when I didn't, and I didn't feel at any point that it couldn't perform in a way that I needed it to. However, if you are keen on all that a smart heater has to offer, then you might be disappointed with the number of features this simple heater has.

What are the running costs like?

Electric heaters can be expensive to run, especially if used for long periods, but that cost will depend on the wattage.

In the case of the Swan 1.5kW Retro Ceramic Heater, the hourly running cost will vary depending on which heating mode you use. The 750W mode will cost about 19.5p per hour to run, up to 39p per hour in the 1.5kW mode, based on the July 2026 energy price cap.

From an energy-efficiency point of view, it's good that this heater will automatically switch into the more efficient fan mode when the target temperature is reached, and has a timer to prevent unnecessary prolonged use. But make sure you try ways to make your electric heater more efficient for the most cost-effective use.

Cleaning and maintenance

Keeping the Swan 1.5kW Retro Ceramic Heater free from dust is key to it working most efficiently. Wiping over it with a dry cloth regularly will help, or you can give it a quick blast with a hairdryer on a cool setting. For stubborn dust or marks, make sure it's unplugged and you can wipe over it with a clean, damp cloth, leaving time for any moisture to dry fully before using it again.

Who should buy the Swan 1.5kW Retro Ceramic Heater?

If you're after a small, affordable and stylish electric heater for a room up to 20m2, then I really don't think you can go wrong with the Swan 1.5kW Retro Ceramic Heater. It works quickly, looks good, and I've regularly seen it available at significantly lower than it's RRP.

Not a fan of the retro vibes of the Swan heater? The Dreo Atom 316 ceramic fan heater is equally affordable and compact, with a no nonsense cylindrical design.

Got a bigger budget and a bigger room, but still want something that nails the style stakes? In that case, something like the VonHaus Electric Stove Heater will fit the bill. It looks just like a log burner, complete with realistic flame effect, but for a fraction of the price and hassle of installing a real one.

If you really want all the capabilities that come along with a smart heater, then the Mill WiFi Max 1500W Smart Heater is the best smart heater I've tried, and has the added benefit of being utterly silent when in use.

The benefits of solar power are now available to more people than ever before. Thanks to a legislation change, plug-in solar panels are now legal in the UK, and once on sale, are significantly more affordable than traditional rooftop solar panels.

While there are lots of differences between rooftop solar panels and plug-in versions, the installation is arguably one of the biggest. Plug-in solar panels are designed to be plugged into an electrical socket on a DIY basis, with no professional input required. But questions have been raised as to how safe that is, when not every home's electrical system is the same.

So how do you know if plug-in solar panels will be safe to use in your home? Well, I asked the experts to find out.

Are plug-in solar panels dangerous?

Plug-in solar panels themselves aren't dangerous, but there is concern that connecting a plug-in solar panel to an old or faulty socket could be.

'Plug-in solar panels, sometimes called balcony solar or Shuko solar systems, connect directly into a standard household socket,' explains John Collett, Director of Quantum Renewables. 'The primary risk arises in homes with older or faulty wiring. If the household electrical installation is not in good condition, adding any additional load including a solar panel can create a risk of overheating at plug sockets or junction points.'

'Plug-in solar panels can be safe when used correctly, but they aren’t quite the same as plugging in a standard household appliance,’ adds George Penny, Solar Panel Expert and Director at The Solar Co. ‘They introduce a new source of electricity into the home, so existing weaknesses in the wiring could create an electrical or fire risk.

'Homes with ageing wiring, worn components, previous DIY alterations, inadequate earthing or a lack of modern protective devices may require electrical work before plug-in solar can be used safely.'

But it's not just your electrical system that could prove problematic; there are other ways that plug-in solar could pose a risk to your home and safety, including improper installation. George Penny explains: 'Incorrect installation or use could also make a plug-in solar system dangerous. A typical rigid solar panel weighs around 20 to 25kg, so an 800W system containing two panels could add approximately 40 to 50kg before any mounting equipment is included.

'That weight could damage an older or weakened fence or shed roof, particularly when combined with strong winds. That’s why it’s essential to check for rot, cracks or sagging and make sure the structure and fixings can safely support both the panels’ weight and wind loading.'

Using unsuitable connectors could also pose a risk, especially if they are not designed for outdoor use.

'Sockets, cables and connectors should also be suitable for outdoor use and protected from water, dust and physical damage,' adds George. 'Never use a standard extension lead, trap a cable through a window or door, or daisy-chain multiple panels. Adding equipment that the system or household circuit isn’t designed to handle could cause components to overheat.'

It's also important to check you have the necessary permissions in place before you attempt an installation. 'Renters should also get their landlord’s permission before drilling into or attaching panels to fences, balconies, walls or sheds,' concludes George.

How to use plug-in solar panels safely

'Anyone considering a plug-in solar system should have their consumer unit and wiring checked by a qualified electrician first, particularly in properties built before the 1990s,' suggests John Collett.

You should also make sure you are only buying panels that meet the required safety standards. Those sold in this country through reputable retailers will meet those standards, but beware if you are buying online and if they look like they may be delivered from overseas. 'Only purchase systems that are certified to UK and EU safety standards,' adds John. 'Check for the CE mark and confirm the system has been tested to EN 62109 standards for inverters.'

In further buying advice, Electrical Safety First says you should only buy from reputable high street retailers and their websites, rather than through third party retailers on online marketplaces, that currently have no legal responsibility for the safety of the products they sell.

You should also make sure that you follow any installation and set-up instructions exactly. 'My advice to anyone picking one up at their local Lidl: keep expectations realistic, follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter, and don't be tempted to daisy-chain panels or run them through extension leads,' advises George.

Martin Lewis has taken to social media to explain how we can beat rising energy costs before the recently inflated price cap comes into effect on 1 October this year.

This Thursday (26 August), the energy regulator Ofgem announced that the energy price cap would rise by 4% in October, costing the average household an extra £60 a year on their bills.

In true Martin Lewis style, the money expert quickly took to X (formerly Twitter) to explain how consumers can offset rising costs - and it’s as simple as fixing your tariff. Here’s everything you need to know.

Should you fix your tariff?

‘So if you are on the price cap and you’re going to see a rise, what do you do about it? Well, the obvious thing here is that you get a fix. And you get the cheapest fix you possibly can, and this is why,’ says Martin in a video on X.

‘The cheapest fix on the market is around 7% less than the current price cap. Well, if you fix, you lock in that unit rate and standard charge. So, the price cap is going to go up 3.6% in October, so from October expect the cheapest fix to be around 10% cheaper than the rate you’ll be paying from October if you stayed on the price cap.

‘And the current prediction because wholesale rates, which is what’s driving this, the Middle East conflict, the fact that that fighting has gone on and on and in fact, wholesale rates, the rates gas and electricity firms pay, are the highest right now that I’ve seen them since the Ukraine crisis, means that in January, well the price cap is currently predicted though it’s somewhat crystal ball gazing to be going up by another 10%.

‘So by January, the cheapest fix now could potentially be 20% cheaper than what you’ll be paying in January. That’s why a fix is a no-brainer.’

If wholesale prices continue to rise, it’s likely that the price cap will follow suit. Martin’s logic is that by fixing your tariff now and paying the same price for the length of your contract, you will save more money in the long run.

‘Generally speaking, comparing energy providers and switching to a fixed tariff now will likely be the best way for most customers to save on their energy bills, especially for those on a variable tariff who are more exposed to changes in the price cap,’ confirms Gareth Kloet, energy expert at Go.Compare.

‘Doing this will lock your prices at the unit rate you fix at for the duration of your contract, so you will avoid paying the higher prices when they come into effect in October. The amount you could save by doing this will vary by customer, depending on your current deal and energy usage, but it should protect you against the incoming rise at the very least.’

Are there any issues with fixing your tariff right now?

However, while fixing your tariff is generally considered by experts as a good way to save on your energy bill (particularly when prices are expected to rise), there are still a few niggles that you should consider.

‘The only thing for customers to be mindful of when making this switch is to take exit fees into account if you are currently on a fixed rate tariff. You may be charged a fee to leave your current deal and switch to another tariff with another provider, so it can be worth double-checking that this fee won’t outweigh the savings of moving to a fixed tariff,’ says Gareth.

‘Switching to a fixed tariff also means you won’t feel the benefit if prices drop below the current unit rate during your contract, but you will have the stability of knowing your energy costs will remain the same and that you’ll avoid any higher prices for the immediate future.’

In his video, Martin also explains that the cheapest fixed-rate offers are currently more expensive than they were last month due to increasing wholesale prices.

‘And if the Middle East conflict improves, you may be able to fix more cheaply in three, four, five weeks than you can right now. But nobody knows because it’s all about the big orange fella in the White House and what he decides to do.’

Martin concludes by saying that the safest thing to do if you’re on the price cap is to fix today. However, he does say if you’re the type of person who plays the market or is just coming off a fix, there is a chance that you may be able to wait for a cheaper fix.

There are plenty of ways to save energy at home, such as using energy-efficient bulbs and smart meters and making simple changes like not overfilling the kettle. If you are worried about paying your bills this winter, you should reach out to your energy supplier to see what support you’re entitled to.

With energy prices set to rise yet again in October, and solar panels becoming more readily available than ever before, it's no wonder more and more people are investing whether this kind of technology is right for their home.

For many the price of solar panels could be prohibitive, but with plug-in solar panels now legal in the UK, generating solar power could become a reasonable prospect for more and more homes.

But given the changeable weather we get here in the UK, how do the different weather types affect how well solar panels perform? I asked the pros to find out.

How does the sun affect solar panels?

As solar panels convert energy from the sun into power for your home (albeit at differing levels depending on whether you choose rooftop or plug-in solar panels), sunny weather is usually ideal for them. But the angle of the panels, as well as the time of year and the position of the sun will have an impact on how much power they generate.

'Between April and September, you can expect to generate around 65-75% of your annual solar electricity, with just 25-35% generated between October and March,' explains George Penny, Expert at The Solar Co.

'This is due to shorter days and the sun sitting lower in the sky, which reduces the amount of sunlight reaching your panels.

'Vertically mounted solar panels can also outperform traditional tilted systems in winter by up to 24.5%, making orientation a key consideration for year-round performance. However, even with optimised systems, winter output will always be lower than summer.'

And so it's best to look at the output of solar panels over a longer period of time. 'The practical takeaway is to think of a solar year as one long summer harvest with a quiet winter, rather than expecting a steady monthly figure,' suggests Andreas Pierrie, founder at Go Solar Today. 'Anyone judging their system on its December numbers is looking at the worst four weeks of the year.'

Are solar panels less effective in a heatwave?

While sunny days are good for solar panels, extreme heatwaves can have a negative impact, which may seem a bit baffling.

'It is one of the biggest misconceptions about solar power,' explains George Penny. 'Solar panels convert sunlight into electricity using semiconductor cells, and as these cells become hotter their electrical properties change, making it less efficient for electricity to flow.

'For every degree Celsius above the standard test temperature of 25ºC, solar panels typically lose around 0.3% to 0.5% of their power output.

'During a UK heatwave, panel surface temperatures can reach 65ºC or more, leading to noticeable efficiency losses.

'However, the abundant sunshine during a heatwave usually outweighs those losses, so while each panel produces slightly less, the sheer amount of sunlight means solar panels can continue generating large volumes of electricity.'

How does rain affect solar panels?

Rain itself might seem like the worst for solar panels, but it can actually have its benefits.

'Rain is the one people worry about and really shouldn't,' says Andreas. 'Panels are sealed units and are hail tested to withstand 25mm ice balls fired at around 50mph, so a British downpour is nothing. If anything rain helps, because it washes off the things that genuinely do cost you output: pollen in May, road dust, bird mess. Left alone, soiling can quietly shave a few percent off generation.'

But while the rain may do some of the work, you might still need to rope in the pros for a proper clean every so often. 'In fact, regular rain is often enough to keep panels clean in the UK, though some homeowners schedule professional cleanings once or twice a year to maintain peak performance,' says George.

How do clouds affect solar panels?

'The real ‘danger’ to solar output isn’t heat, it’s cloud cover, which can cut output by 75% or more on overcast days.' says George Penny. However, fear not, they won't stop working altogether. They'll just generate less than on a sunny day.

Having a battery as part of your solar panel set up can help you to store electricity generated on clear sunny days to use on days when it's a overcast, or on shorter days in winter.

How does snow affect solar panels?

While in most parts of the UK, snow is a something of a rarity, when it hits it can cause problems for your solar panels.

'If snow completely covers the panels, it can significantly reduce or temporarily stop generation because sunlight cannot reach the solar cells, explains Simon Bones, CEO of Genous. 'Fortunately, solar panels are normally installed at an angle, so snow will often slide off naturally as the panels warm up.'

Should you worry about the weather when it comes to solar panels?

While certain weather conditions can have a negative effect on your solar panels effectiveness, it's best to look at how well they perform over a longer term before deciding against them.

'Try not to become too obsessed with what your panels are doing hour by hour. Solar generation apps can become really addictive, but hourly generation doesn’t mean much,' explains Kian Milroy, Renewables Electrical Engineer at Heatable. 'The best way to judge efficiency is tracking production across the year.

'UK weather is incredibly variable, one miserable week in January tells you very little about whether your panels are performing properly.

'It’s also worth knowing that Britain is actually better suited to solar than people often assume. We may not have constant sunshine, but modern panels still generate from diffuse daylight. And when you add in that our relatively mild temperatures are good for panel efficiency, and our very long summer days give systems plenty of opportunity to produce electricity, it works out to be a fairly good match overall.

'If you’re considering solar, I’d be much more concerned about whether the system has been properly designed for your particular roof, rather than worrying about whether the British weather is ‘sunny enough’.'

Energy bills will increase by £60 a year for millions of households, Ofgem has announced. This marks the highest prices we’ve seen in three years.

This morning, Ofgem, the energy regulator, announced the energy price would rise by 4% from 1 October 2026 compared to the current level, with households using a typical amount of gas and electricity expected to see their bills rise from £1,663 to £1,723.

I spoke to energy experts to ask what the impact of the August price cap will be on UK households, and how to save energy at home.

The August price cap announcement

Ofgem says the price rise is driven by the rise in the wholesale cost of gas, which is what suppliers pay, as a result of ongoing conflict in the Middle East.

The increase is expected to impact 22 million households in the UK who are protected by the price cap. The price cap refers to a default tariff which is applied to those who are not on a fixed-rate tariff. Ofgem sets the price cap and reviews it every three months to reflect wholesale energy prices. If you have fixed your tariff, you will not be affected by the August price cap unless your tariff runs out.

'One thing that is important to understand is that this is the first price cap announcement based on Ofgem’s updated Typical Domestic Consumption Values, which estimate average household energy use,' explains Gareth Kloet, energy expert at Go.Compare Energy. 'Because those benchmark consumption levels have fallen, the headline cap figure may not tell the full story for individual households. And the price cap isn’t a limit on what you’ll pay, but is based on average household energy use. It’s a key reminder for billpayers to look closely at the unit rates and standing charges on their tariff, rather than relying on the headline number alone.’

‘This is also the first price cap with the Government’s temporary removal of VAT on domestic electricity bills in place, which should offer some support over the winter. But again, it may make the new cap harder to compare with previous announcements, because the October rates will be calculated differently for the six-month period.’

In July, the Government announced that VAT would be cut from household electricity bills as of 1 October, offering savings of around £45 per year. Ofgem says the VAT reduction means electricity bills will remain broadly stable, with most of the increase in the price cap driven by higher gas costs.

'High international gas prices are continuing to drive energy costs in the UK. We welcome the Government’s intervention to remove VAT from electricity bills, without which customers would have faced even higher costs this winter,’ Neil Kenward, Ofgem’s Director General for Markets, said.

How to save money on your energy bills

If you’re looking to save money in light of this announcement, consider fixing your tariff before the price cap comes into effect.

‘Savings are available by choosing a fixed tariff, which are available at £100 or more below the October price cap, and many suppliers offer tariffs with cheaper electricity to smart meter customers for electricity consumed out of peak times. It's also worth considering different payment methods, with prepayment customers paying the lowest price cap rates, and could save consumers an average of about £45 compared to direct debit,’ says Neil.

Gareth also says the main action to take is reviewing your current tariff. But he also recommends shopping around to get the best deal.

‘Those who value certainty may want to explore fixed-rate options, which fixes the rate you pay for your energy for a set length of time. Those on a standard variable tariff should keep a close eye on future price movements, as energy providers can change the rates they charge. It’s also worth comparing tariffs regularly, as the cheapest option isn’t always the best fit for every household,’ he says.

‘If you’re concerned about higher bills, small changes can still make a meaningful difference. Checking your heating timer, draught-proofing windows and doors, and avoiding unnecessary energy use can all help keep costs under control during the colder months. Anyone struggling to keep up with payments should contact their supplier as soon as possible, as support may be available and it’s always better to seek help early rather than let debt build up.’

If you find yourself worried about paying your bills, reach out to your supplier to see what support they can offer. You can also speak to independent bodies such as Citizens Advice, which can also offer support.

I'd like to begin by saying that I love the heat and, for me, the long hot summers we've enjoyed these past couple of years are most welcome. That said, it has definitely highlighted to me and, I am sure lots of others, that many homes in the UK, my own included, are really badly suited to high temperatures.

It is in my bedroom that these extreme temperatures can start to cause problems, due, in part, to it being west-facing, meaning it is absorbing heat well into the evening. As a result of overheating, we can all end up using more energy trying to make it cooler. After a hot day, walking in there really can take my breath away – or should I say it used to. Now, however, thanks to introducing some passive and active ways to keep a bedroom cool, this is a space that I don't dread retiring to at night.

If you regularly find that you are just too hot to sleep in your bedroom, I'd like to share with you the best tips and tricks I've found to cool it down – so you wake up refreshed and ready to enjoy these balmy summer days.

1. I've started closing the windows at certain points in the day

I am slightly ashamed to say that, up until the beginning of this particular prolonged period of hot weather, I was guilty of flinging open all the windows in the house as soon as I woke up – believing, wrongly, that this was the best way to keep a room cool.

Since then, I have got much smarter when it comes to my summer window opening routine – this is such an easy method but one you really need to get on board with, as Chloe Dacosta, design manager at Blinds2Go explains. 'When you open your windows during a heatwave, you're actually letting warm air into homes that are naturally designed to retain heat. Once that heat gets inside, it's much harder to remove, meaning your home can quickly become warmer than the temperature outside.

'To keep your bedroom cool, it's best to keep windows, blinds and curtains closed during the hottest part of the day – typically between 11am and 3pm – particularly in south- or west-facing rooms that get the most direct sunlight.'

Additionally, thanks to the advice of Andrew Pemberton, Chartered Building Engineer and senior manager of surveying at The Professional Snagging Company, I have also just invested in a couple of thermometers. 'A simple indoor and outdoor thermometer takes the guesswork out of opening windows, letting you see when it’s genuinely cooler outside – don't just rely on your phone's weather app.'

2. I hung thermal curtains and got on board with blind choreography

Thermal curtains and blinds are one of the best investments I've made for my home. In the winter they help keep the draughts at bay and, in the summer, the thermal curtains keep the heat out and make a huge difference when it comes to keeping my bedroom cool, particularly when using the cavemen method.

Ana Zuravliova, trends specialist at Blinds Direct, explains that the timing of when you close curtains and blinds matters hugely. 'People often think thermal blinds are only useful during winter, but they can also help stop rooms heating up. The timing of when you close them is the important part though – once a room already feels hot, it’s much harder to cool it back down naturally. This is where ‘blind choreography’ really comes in. East-facing rooms often need shading much earlier in the day, while south- and west- facing rooms usually become much hotter later in the afternoon.'

Chloe Dacosta, also advised me that 'window stacking' (combining my curtains with a blackout blind) could improve things even further. 'Layering blinds with curtains adds extra depth and shading to a room. This combination also works particularly well for street-facing windows, helping to reduce light entering the room.

'I always recommend blackout blinds with side tracks for the ultimate in shading,' continues Chloe. 'The opaque fabric blocks light from coming through the blind itself, while the side tracks stop light creeping in around the edges.'

3. Made time to research the best fans to keep cool

I know that most fans don't actually cool the air, but I find them a really effective way to make a room feel cooler and the compact model I have on my bedside table makes a world of difference to my sleep quality in a heatwave.

Michael Zohouri, founder of Pyramid Eco, agrees that investing in the best fans you can lay your hands on is a great way to improve the comfort levels in a hot bedroom. 'I'd always recommend using a fan before reaching for portable air conditioning if the room isn't excessively hot. They're much cheaper to run and can make a surprisingly big difference to how comfortable you feel.'

The way in which you use your fan will also go a long way towards helping lower the internal temperature of your bedroom, as Andrew Pemberton explains. 'Put a fan by the open window after sunset to draw cooler air into the bedroom, but keep the door open so warmer air has somewhere to escape. Additionally, if you are home during the day, place the fan low down and point it upwards to move the cooler air that sits near the floor.'

4. Try my best at cross ventilation

Creating some cross ventilation within your home is such an effective way of helping it feel cooler and often works particularly well when trying to cool down a living room. In my bedroom this can be tricky, however, as there is only one window.

'If you can open windows on opposite sides of the house once the outdoor temperature drops, you'll move far more warm air out than opening one bedroom window on its own,' explains Michael Zohouri.

What I find works, in the absence of two windows, is to open up the windows early and late in the day, keep the bedroom door wide open and then to open up all the other windows on the first floor – this seems to create a good cool breeze to swirl throughout the entire space.

'The big thing is to plan ahead,' advises Michael. 'Don't wait until bedtime to start cooling the room. Stop the heat getting in during the day by shutting windows and closing blinds during a heatwave rather than trying to get rid of it all at 10 o'clock at night.'

5. Fitted solar control window film

This one has really made such a difference and couldn't have been simpler. I bought Climate 35 - Solar Control Film from The Window Film Company and installed it in just under an hour, despite my window being a fiddly multi-paned casement design.

This easy job reduced the late afternoon temperature in my bedroom by 4°C, which might not sound like a lot but actually made it feel so much more comfortable.

One small thing to note is that, from the outside, the windows now have a slightly gold, mirrored look, but I'll take that for a better nights sleep.

6. Pull out the portable air conditioner on really hot days

I've been lucky enough to test a few of the best portable air conditioners just lately and I can vouch for them being a brilliant way to cool down a bedroom fast. That said, there are three reasons why I tend not to use this method on a regular basis.

Firstly, they can be rather noisy to run. I actually don't mind the loud humming, but my husband does – definitely something to note when choosing a portable air conditioner. Secondly, they require an exhaust hose to be run to outside, through the window. As our bedroom is at the front of the house this does look a little unsightly, plus as we have side-hinged casement windows as opposed to sliding sashes, sealing the window up is a little more fiddly. Thirdly, they use quite a bit of energy, so I tend to save mine for those really hot nights.

'If you're struggling to sleep because your bedroom is consistently too hot during the warmer months then a portable air conditioning unit is absolutely worth it,' says Michael Zohouri. 'The key thing to keep in mind is the exhaust hose. That hot air has to go somewhere so make sure the hose is properly sealed through a window kit. If the window is left wide open around the hose, you're letting hot air straight back into the room.'

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7. Make sure nothing is obstructing air flow

I've found that creating a cooling breeze within the room is far easier following a good bedroom declutter and after rethinking my furniture layout.

It might sound strange, but Melissa Denham, interior designer from Hammonds Fitted Furniture, backs me up on this point. 'Good airflow is essential to keep any room comfortable during a heatwave, and how your furniture is laid out plays an important role in this.

'Wardrobes and chest of drawers should be positioned so they aren’t blocking windows, doorways or natural airflow routes and instead can enhance natural cross-breeze ventilation,' continues Melissa. 'Bringing larger pieces of furniture slightly away from your walls, where possible, can help to cool a room as well. Air can circulate more freely rather than becoming trapped in stagnant pockets. Five to ten centimetres is enough to help airflow or for bulkier pieces, ten to 15 centimetres.'

FAQs

What type of bedroom blinds are best for keeping out the heat?

The window treatment ideas you choose to shade your bedroom windows will play a huge part in how cool it feels – so choose with care.

'The best blinds for your bedroom depends on your style and shading needs,' says Chloe Dacosta. 'Roman blinds are a great choice for adding cosiness to a scheme, and come in a wide range of patterns with a choice of light-filtering, thermal or blackout linings for customisable light control. For a more contemporary look, wooden blinds work well at redirecting light depending on their rotation, though they won't offer the same level of blackout as fabric options.

'Thermal blinds are specifically designed to tackle temperature extremes,' adds Chloe. 'They create a thermal barrier at the window, helping to keep heat out in the summer and retain warmth in the winter.'

Finally, for an additional level of protection, Chloe suggests shading your home externally with awnings. 'Unlike internal blinds or curtains, awnings stop the sun's rays before they reach your windows, preventing heat from building up inside in the first place.'

When looking at ways to keep your bedroom cool, it also makes sense to research the mistakes that could be making your home hotter – even making simple switches such as remembering not to leave appliances on standby can make a big difference to comfort levels.

Customers of Octopus Energy will be rewarded with free electricity if they cut down their energy usage during the upcoming solar eclipse.

On Wednesday 12 August, people across the UK will see an almost total eclipse for the first time this century. But this historical event is also a prime opportunity to save energy and money at home.

If you’re looking to save on your energy bills, Octopus Energy is asking customers to cut back on electricity between 6 pm and 8 pm – when the eclipse is at its darkest and earn free electricity the following weekend. Here’s how it works.

What is Octopus Energy's Eclipse Power Down Sessions?

During the eclipse, the moon will cover part of the sun and will temporarily wipe out a portion of the nation’s solar energy generation. With the eclipse predicted to begin around 6 pm (the exact time depends on where you are in the country), Octopus says this is when energy demand peaks.

So, instead of sticking a wash on, switching on the TV or even the kettle when you get home from work on Wednesday, Octopus customers should avoid using electrical appliances during the 6 pm to 8 pm window. Instead, why not go see the eclipse? Using a pair of solar glasses, of course.

The idea is that by using less electricity, customers can help take the strain off The National Grid. In return, Octopus is offering a free hour of electricity the following Sunday when demand is less. The company will monitor your usage via your smart meter, and if you’ve used less electricity than you normally would, you’ll unlock your free hour.

To take part in Octopus Energy Eclipse Power Down Sessions should sign up online via their rewards sign-up portal.

‘Many of us will be looking up at the sky on Wednesday evening to experience this once-in-a-generation event. But as the Sun disappears, so will some of Britain’s solar generation, just as demand peaks,’ commented Rebecca Dibb-Simkin, Chief Customer Officer at Octopus Energy.

‘By shifting everyday tasks like the washing machine or dishwasher until later, households can help reduce the need for gas power stations - and earn rewards for doing their bit.’

If you’re worried about paying your energy bills, there are other methods to save money, too. Assess energy-guzzling habits such as leaving appliances on standby and ditch them, try using smart plugs and consider fixing your tariff if you haven’t done so already.

When we just have the odd day of hot weather, you might not pay too much attention to how much energy your appliances uses. But considering we're seeing a prolonged hot spell in the UK right now, how much energy your portable air conditioner uses will be more of a concern.

And so it makes sense to ensure you are using your portable air conditioner in the most energy efficient way possible, as well as fostering an environment where it doesn't have to work as hard to cool your space.

'There are a number of simple steps people can take to get the most from their cooling appliances, and just as importantly, some common mistakes that can reduce efficiency and lead to unnecessary energy use,' says Ciaran Murphy, CEO of Dimplex. 'By making a few smart adjustments, households can stay cool and comfortable throughout the summer while getting the best value from their appliances.'

1. Keep the heat out

Firstly, the most important part of using your portable air conditioner more efficiently is making sure you have it well sealed when venting it outside.

While there are plenty of ways you can make a portable air conditioner seal look more attractive, it's key that they are fitted and installed well in order to keep as much hot air out of the room as possible, while keeping the cool air in.

'The most important thing is to stop cool air escaping,' explains Jamie Hillard, Gas Safe and F-Gas registered engineer at Heatable.co.uk. 'Keep windows and doors closed, draw curtains or blinds before the room heats up, and seal any gaps around the exhaust hose’s window kit. A poorly sealed window forces the air conditioner to work continuously against incoming warm air.'

2. Focus on cooling a single room

Following on from keeping the hot air out, it's important that you keep the internal door of the room you are trying to cool shut while your portable air conditioner is in use.

After all, a key factor of choosing the right portable air conditioner for your home is to buy a correctly powered unit for the room size you are trying to cool. For example, this 7000 BTU model from ElectriQ at Appliances Direct is only suitable for rooms up to 20m2, where the 14,000 BTU version can cool rooms up to 38m2.

'Portable air conditioners should also be correctly sized for the room, as an undersized model may operate constantly without ever reaching the desired temperature,' says Jamie.

3. Set a realistic target temperature

On a hot day, you might be tempted to whack your portable air conditioner's target temperature to the lowest possible setting in the hopes that it will provide quicker relief. However, this is definitely not the most efficient way to use your appliance.

'Setting a portable air conditioner to 16°C won't cool the room any faster than setting it to 22 or 23°C,' explains Rhys Powell, Director of Operations at WarmZilla. 'It simply tells the unit to keep running for longer in an attempt to reach a much lower temperature.

'Aiming for around 22 to 24°C provides a comfortable indoor environment while allowing the compressor to cycle on and off instead of running continuously. If your unit has an eco mode or sleep mode, they're also worth using because they automatically adjust performance once the room has cooled, rather than operating at full power all the time.'

4. Position with airflow in mind

Where you position your portable air conditioner will also affect how efficiently it runs.

'Position the unit close to the window so the exhaust hose remains as short and straight as possible, while leaving enough space around the air intake for good airflow,' says Jamie. 'Avoid placing it in direct sunlight or next to heat-producing appliances.'

Check the manufacturer instructions for airflow requirements for your specific appliance. It's usually around 50cm.

5. Complement it with a fan

Teaming your portable air conditioner with one of the best fans is a good way to boost it's effectiveness, in an energy efficient way.

'Fans are inexpensive to run and can help circulate cool air more effectively,' says Ciaran. 'Using fans alongside a portable air conditioner can improve comfort without needing to lower the thermostat further.'

6. Be tactical about when you use it

You might not feel like you need to turn your portable air conditioner on until it's uncomfortably hot, but this can mean you're using more energy than you need to. Instead, the experts advise you to be a bit more tactical about when you use it.

'Portable air conditioners are generally more efficient at maintaining a comfortable temperature than dramatically reducing one,' explains Ciaran. 'Turning the unit on earlier can help reduce the effort required later in the day.'

In more practical terms, Rhys says: 'If you know a hot afternoon is coming, switch the unit on before the room reaches its peak temperature and close the windows, curtains and blinds while it's running. That prevents more heat from entering the room so the air conditioner spends less time trying to remove it.'

7. Maintain your appliance properly

As with any appliance, if you want it to keep operating at peak efficiency, then you'll need to keep on top of the maintenance.

When it comes to portable air conditioners, this means keeping them dust-free, regularly cleaning the air filter, and emptying any water that may be collected and stored during the use of dehumidifier modes.

This summer has been a test on the majority of our homes. Unlike previous heatwaves which can be over in a few days, the prolonged 35+º heat for weeks on end really has been something else.

However, without the infrastructure to cool our homes, we’re all stuck with the windows closed and the curtains drawn during the day to keep the hot air outside and the solar gain to a minimum. These passive cooling strategies have been tried and tested for centuries and are a good way to keep energy usage down while limiting the use fans or air conditioners. But, in a prolonged heatwave like we've seen this summer, saving energy and keeping your house cool can also mean it feels like you live in the dark.

While my house has certain features that help it feel cool in the summer, it can still get really hot when a heatwave hits. As I work from home, I've had to keep the curtains closed to maintain a comfortable temperature, but I’ve also tried to come up with ways to make our living spaces feel brighter and less cave like.

1. I use bamboo blinds for dappled light

We have a downstairs bathroom that thankfully faces north. Now, normally we wouldn’t think twice about this space getting too hot, but with the lengthy heatwave, I’ve found having our bamboo blinds closed during this time still lets in a good amount of light. Certainly enough to put on makeup without looking like a clown!

This makes absolute sense, especially when you consider countries like China, Indonesia and India have all been using bamboo to shade their interior spaces for centuries. And as our climate is warming up for what looks to be the foreseeable, we should be taking note of how traditionally hotter regions mitigate overheating.

Ours were really cost efficient as they were a last-minute purchase after our bathroom was finished, but I wish I had researched ones that were treated for moisture as ours are now looking a bit worse for wear from the room's humidity.

Thermal blinds with a honeycomb weave have become a much recommended product to allow light, but not heat into a shaded room. 'Slatted blinds and shutters are also particularly useful because they can be angled upwards, ' adds Caroline Montague at Villa Sartiano. 'That blocks the direct beam but still sends some daylight towards the ceiling, which gives the room a much softer brightness.'

2. I added voile curtains for diffused light

To diffuse harsher sunlight, we use voile curtains alongside thicker ones for nighttime in our bedroom. Now, I know they have a bad rep from our nans’ houses where net curtains made every room feel gloomy and dated, but there are some gorgeous modern designs to be found that bring a more Parisian elegance to this fabric.

The game-changer for us when it is hot, is that we bought thermal voile curtains so the rate at white the indoor temperature rises is slowed down. This also works the opposite way in the winter.

3. I track the sun’s progression over my house

One of the first things we did when we moved into our house was to take note of where the sun begins its day and where it is positioned at the hottest parts. At the time it was to plan our renovation, but I have found it super useful so we can open and close curtains when I know the sun has moved round.

'After more than 30 years of designing homes, one thing I have learnt is that a house rarely overheats evenly,' explains Caroline Montague 'Follow the sun around the building rather than closing everything at once. An east-facing room may need its curtains drawn early in the morning, while a west-facing room often becomes much hotter later in the afternoon.'

A basic timeline would look like this:

• 7am: West and south-facing curtains open, east-facing closed
• 12pm: East and west open, south closed
• 3pm: West and south closed, east open

I generally don’t worry about our north-facing window as this is a great source of constant diffused light.

4. I'm strategic about the positioning of mirrors

Having the curtains closed all of the time can really affect the mood of the house and too much artificial light can serve to make a space feel dour, especially when overhead lights and table lamps are on during the day while working from home.

'The key is to control how daylight enters and bounces around the room,' says Chloe Barrow, Head of Creative Interiors at Laura James. 'I would avoid placing mirrors directly opposite sunny windows during a heatwave, as they simply bounce the heat deeper into the house. It’s better to place them on perpendicular side walls to catch ambient light, without bringing the heat in.'

Using the pattern from the point above, you can do what we do and strategically place mirrors to reflect the light into rooms that are currently shaded. For instance, the north-facing light of our utility is near a large mirror in the otherwise dark hallway. It allows the light to bound around the space and make it feel much less gloomy.

5. I combine internal measures with external shading

Now, if having your curtains closed during the day is simply too much for you to take, external shading might be a better option. Although this isn’t my first port-of-call, I get it; we spend all year waiting for warm and sunny days and the last thing you want to do is shut yourself away from it all.

So, if you really want to have the curtains open during they day, look to what you can do to the exterior of your house to prevent overheating. One such element we love in for our west-facing patio door that don’t have curtains or blinds is to use natural planting either side of the doors.

Sail shades can also be installed so come light passes through, but the harsh direct sun is diluted a bit. Retractable awnings work much the same, but you can also get mini versions for above windows. This is especially good for home offices.

'Awnings are a brilliant investment as they stop heat before it even hits the glass, without making the room look dark and dreary,' says Chloe Barrow. 'You’re still getting a lot of light, but less heat.'

Now that I've been working from home for more than six years, a period which has included some of the hottest days on record, I like to think I've nailed my process for keeping my home cool.

While I have fitted air conditioning in my living room, and a portable air conditioner and a brilliant fan I can use where I need to, I'm also a big believer in more passive (and energy efficient) cooling methods, like solar control, cross ventilation and night flushing.

However, there's one method I've sworn by over the years — keeping all windows closed during the hottest part of the day (as well as blinds and curtains) — that has felt less effective in my home in the most recent and prolonged heatwave.

While this method has undoubtedly been effective when we've had the odd hot days, preventing the worst of the heat from entering my home, the length and intensity of the most recent hot spell has been one of the most extreme I've experienced.

When I'd kept the windows and blinds shut, especially upstairs, the build up of heat felt far more noticeable to me than ever before. If I needed to go upstairs for anything, I would get to about the ninth step before my head would enter a stifling blanket of heat. Something about entering that environment head first made it seem all the more acute.

Then at night, when the temperature cooled slightly outside, I would open all of the windows to get some cross ventilation going, but the heat didn't seem to escape. I'd even point fans out of the open windows to help give the night flushing a helping hand, but it still remained far too hot to sleep upstairs. Fortunately, I have a comfortable air bed (this Silentnight king sized air bed, £57.99 at Amazon that is also the top pick in our best air beds guide) that means I can decamp to the living room for a cooler night's sleep.

After the first couple of days of the heatwave, and the accumulation of heat, I decided to leave the upstairs windows open (but curtains mostly closed, with a small gap in the centre) to see how much of a difference it made. And interestingly, it definitely made the stifling blanket of heat considerably less oppressive as I headed up the stairs.

Admittedly, it was still very warm (and in most cases, when temperatures exceed 30°C, there's only some much you can do before you need to resort to active cooling measures like fans and air conditioning to create a cooler environment), but it didn't feel any warmer than before, when I'd had the windows closed.

And granted, if my home was oriented in a different way, and I had rooms that were naturally shaded and cool despite the heat outside, then keeping the windows closed would be essential to maintain that coolness for as long as possible. However, my home's orientation and position in a little sun trap mean that it seemingly feels the full effects of the sun from the moment it rises until it sets.

By leaving the upstairs windows open, and this may have been due to a bit more of a breeze outside, it felt like the night flushing was more effective too (although I did end up sleeping with two fans — one blowing on me, and one blowing out of the window).

While having the upstairs windows open may have been a bit of a placebo in terms of its effectiveness, managing solar gain by keeping my blackout curtains closed whenever the sun is out is still an absolute no-brainer for me. Upstairs curtains will be closed for most of the day, and I'm tactical about when I close my kitchen curtains so that I can still enjoy the daylight, but just keep the worst of the heat gain at bay.

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