Lawn mowing is a subject that’s full of dilemmas at this time of the year, but there’s one that’s got me scratching my head the most right now. How short should you cut your grass in a heatwave?

If your grass is in need of a good trim like mine is, it’s probably the first question on your mind as you look out at your garden this week. When I asked the experts for July lawn care tips, they said longer grass is preferable – but how short is too short? And when does a general mow become damaging?

I checked in with them again to find out how short you should cut your grass during this week’s heatwave.

What you'll need

If you’re looking for jobs to do in the garden during this July’s heatwave, it’s worth paying some attention to your lawn. While a normal mowing schedule can work, less is sometimes more.

‘Maintain regular mowing in July, as at this time of year, grass growth should be at its strongest,’ says Chris McIlroy, lawn expert at The Grass People. ‘You should aim for once or even twice a week, but still only remove the top third, as this promotes deeper root growth and builds resilience to the summer heat.’

The one-third rule seems to be the leading advice for mowing your lawn in hot weather; the longer the grass, the more sun protection for the lawn.

‘Longer grass blades help shade the soil surface, reducing evaporation and protecting roots from excessive heat,’ explains Cheryl Harper, managing director of Greensleeves Lawn Care.

A robot lawn mower is brilliant at cutting grass little and often, and you can even set mowing schedules for machines like the Eufy E15 (so it’ll do the hard work for you in the background!).

If the one-third rule is too vague a starting point, you can use a general cutting height guideline to work out how short to cut your grass in a heatwave instead.

‘For most domestic lawns, maintaining a height of around 4 - 5 cm provides a good balance between appearance and resilience,’ advises Cheryl.

There are a few other ways to protect your lawn in a heatwave, too.

‘Some tools can help speed up recovery and improve your lawn's chances,’ says Jonathan. ‘Aeration can improve water and nutrient absorption across the lawn, and a wetting agent can aid moisture penetration into the soil.’

So, best practice for mowing your lawn in a heatwave? Only remove one third at a time, and try to keep your grass at least 4 - 5 cm long. Putting up with longer grass will reward you with a healthier lawn come the end of summer!

If your lawn has become compacted as a result of all the hot weather, you may be considering whether to aerate it. The short answer is no, do not. Gardening experts even say that it can make it harder for your lawn to recover after a heatwave.

If you’ve been wondering when to aerate a lawn, garden experts want you to be aware that it’s best to wait until autumn when conditions are a little wetter. While aerating a lawn is a great way to improve drainage and allow nutrients to reach grass roots, it can also increase moisture loss and turn your lawn yellow and patchy if you do it at the wrong time.

This is why it’s so important to stick to your lawn care calendar when it comes to aerating and especially to avoid the task during a heatwave. Here’s why.

Why you should never aerate your lawn during a heatwave

‘When it comes to lawn care, aeration is the process of creating small holes in the ground, meaning water, air and nutrients can more easily reach grass roots. Similarly, scarifying removes dead organic material, called thatch, which also allows water, air and nutrients to reach the roots,’ explains Paul Hicks, Senior Marketing and Product Manager at STIHL GB.

‘While these are both important parts of the lawn care process to ensure a healthy, lush lawn, these tasks should not be completed in the summer months as essential moisture can be lost through the aeration holes - and scarifying should only be done when that grass is actively growing, and the lawn can recover.’

Aerating a lawn is typically done using an aerator tool (such as this £29 Amazon bestseller) and is brilliant at improving drainage following dry spells where soil becomes compacted. The key thing to remember here is that you need to wait for the dry spell to finish before you aerate.

‘During a heatwave, your lawn is already working hard just to cope with the stress of high temperatures and dry conditions. Creating hundreds of small holes in the soil can increase moisture loss and make it even harder for the grass to recover when it's already under pressure. Most lawns simply don't have the energy reserves to bounce back properly in those conditions,’ says Luke Newnes, gardening expert at Hillarys.

‘I often compare it to recovering from a marathon. If you've just crossed the finish line, that isn't the moment to head straight into another tough workout. Your lawn is in a similar position during a heatwave – it's focused on conserving energy, retaining moisture and simply getting through the hot spell, so adding another source of stress can do more harm than good.’

How to protect your lawn during a heatwave

‘During the summer months, there can be very little rainfall – if you want your lawn to stay healthy year-round, then watering it is important. While the exact amount of water that your lawn needs will depend on both the type of soil and species of grass you have in your garden, a good general rule of thumb is to supply enough water to penetrate a minimum of 25mm into the ground, roughly once a week,’ recommends Paul.

‘Do this in the cooler early morning or late evening hours to avoid evaporation and your damp grass being scorched by the summer sun, making sure to water the area evenly. If the hot weather gets extreme, you can increase this to two or three times a week as needed,' Paul adds.

'Don’t be tempted to water your lawn more than this. While it might seem the obvious thing to do in a heatwave, overwatering can actually cause serious damage to the grass as it forces air out of the soil, which can then cause root rot. If you’re not sure how often to water your lawn, use a moisture meter to check levels.’

Ensuring your lawn gets the right amount of water is a key July lawn tip, as is applying a wetting agent (£23.99, Amazon) and adjusting how you mow.

‘For now, think of protection rather than perfection. Raise your mower height slightly, mow less often and avoid heavy foot traffic where possible. Longer grass helps shade the soil, reducing moisture loss, while staying off the lawn can prevent additional stress and compaction. And don't panic if your lawn loses some of its colour – established lawns are often more resilient than people think and will usually recover once cooler temperatures and rainfall return,’ says Luke.

‘Heatwaves are also a good reminder that our gardens are changing. More people are looking at ways to create comfortable shaded spaces through trees, climbing plants and features such as pergolas. Not only does that make the garden more pleasant to use during hot weather, but it can reduce wear and tear on lawns when conditions are at their toughest.’

‘If your lawn is struggling in the hot weather and brown patches start to appear, don’t panic. Grass is extremely resilient and will go into a dormant state when it’s unable to access enough moisture. Established lawns will recover quickly,’ concludes Paul

Just wait till autumn before you aerate…

July can be a precarious time for UK gardens, especially when we’re flocked with heatwaves like the ones we’ve seen so far this summer. Lawns can bear the brunt of the hot weather – which is why it’s wise to have a few July lawn care tips up your sleeve.

It’s arguably one of the most pivotal months in the lawn care calendar, since grass is more vulnerable to heat stress, drought and mower damage right now. You’ll also need to know the best way (and time) to water a lawn, along with other lawn care tips that could mean the difference between a yellow lawn and a lush green one.

I’ve rounded up the most important July lawn care tips, with tips from the experts, to help you keep your lawn in shape (or give it a well-needed boost!).

What you'll need

1. Keep it hydrated

Like the other plants in our garden, our lawns become extra thirsty during hot weather – which is why deep watering is the July lawn care tip experts swear by.

‘Watering matters, especially with another heatwave on the way,’ says Chris McIlroy, lawn expert at The Grass People. ‘Aim for around one inch of water on your lawn per week, ideally in one or two deep soakings rather than light sprinkles, to encourage deep roots.’

It’s worth investing in a sprinkler like this Hozelock Rectangular Oscillating Sprinkler from Argos that provides even lawn coverage up to 220 square metres (and saves you watering the entire thing yourself!)

There’s also the question of whether or not you should water your grass in the sun, and many experts advise waiting for the cooler parts of the day.

‘Watering in the morning is best so that the moisture doesn’t evaporate in the midday heat,’ says Lawnsmith's grass expert, Jonathan Davis.

2. Consider a wetting agent

Ever heard of a wetting agent? It’s basically something you put on a lawn to make water wetter. Yep – really!

In a nutshell, wetting agents can be gamechangers for keeping a lawn hydrated in hot weather. They're a recommendation of Jonathan's.

‘A wetting agent is a chemical that reduces surface tension of water,’ he explains. ‘When applied to soil, it helps rain and water penetrate the turf and spread more efficiently.’

It’s also a brilliant way to make every drop count if your region is affected by a hosepipe ban this July.

‘I’d recommend using a wetting agent to prepare your lawn for dry, summer conditions, supporting its hydration ahead of warmer weather,’ advises Jonathan.

Apparently, a wetting agent can be used to revive a dry lawn, too. You can order a Garden Lawncare Guy wetting agent from Amazon.

3. Adjust your mowing schedule

It’s easy to assume that the warmer weather will have our grass growing quicker than usual, and during periods of heavy rainfall, that’s true.

During a heatwave, though, growth is likely to slow right down – so you’ll need to adjust your mowing schedule accordingly.

‘Approaching July, conditions may become drier, slowing grass growth, so mow at least once every two weeks and raise the mower height,’ says Jonathan.

It’s also important to know how to mow a lawn in hot, dry weather, and many experts recommend the one-third rule, which means never cutting more than one third of the length of the grass at a time. Longer grass creates more shade, which means less evaporation.

Robot lawn mowers are ideal for keeping on top of mowing little and often, and this approach is gentler on the grass. Machines like the Eufy E15 Robot Lawn Mower can be set on a schedule, allowing them to cut your grass at specific times, even when you're away.

4. Leave grass clippings on your lawn

One of the best ways to reuse grass clippings in the garden? Leave them on your lawn. It's more productive than it sounds!

'If you’re mowing the lawn regularly, up to once a week, then your grass clippings will be short enough to leave them on the lawn to break down and decompose,' says Michael Holden, lawn guru and gardening expert at Flymo.

'This adds natural nitrogen-rich fertiliser to your lawn without costing you a penny and will keep your lawn a luscious, vibrant green. Plus, who doesn’t love that freshly mown grass smell that will be coming from your garden?'

That's why robot lawn mowers than be healthier for a lawn than traditional lawn mowers – they often cut tiny amounts of grass at a time and dispense the fine clippings back onto the lawn. I've actually noticed that my lawn is a lot greener since using the Segway Navimow i208 LiDAR Robot Lawn Mower (which you can order from Amazon).

5. Aerate your lawn

If your lawn is compacted like mine, it’s likely that your grass is struggling more than the average healthier lawn for water and nutrients. Left unchecked, this can lead to yellow, patchy grass – but thankfully, July is the ideal time to learn how to aerate your lawn.

'Getting hands-on to aerate the lawn will improve grass growth, ensuring a luscious, thriving lawn,' explains Michael from Flymo.

‘Loosening the soil allows oxygen and microbes to circulate around the grass roots, promoting growth. Grab a standard garden fork to create small holes of around 2cm deep in your soil, focusing specifically on compact areas.’

You could even buy a specialised aerating tool like this Walensee Lawn Aerator Tool from Amazon.

6. Feed with caution

If you’re wondering what to put on your lawn in summer, it very much depends on the weather – and since the forecast has another heatwave in store, you’ll need to be extra careful this July.

‘You can feed your lawn in July, but avoid any heatwave or drought conditions and look out for signs of stress,’ warns Chris from The Grass People. ‘Fertiliser can burn grass if applied incorrectly. Opt for a summer lawn feed specifically designed for summer use rather than a high-nitrogen spring formula.’

Chris also recommends applying fertiliser to your lawn before or after so that the soil has some moisture, as opposed to putting it on dry turf that’s more prone to fertiliser scorch. Seaweed fertilisers like The Shropshire Seaweed Company Organic Seaweed from Amazon are generally a safe bet for lush, green grass.

Keep these July lawn care tips to hand to protect and nourish your lawn, regardless of what the weather throws at it!

Did you know you can reuse grass clippings in your garden? Not only does this save you from trips to the tip to dispose of them, but reusing grass clippings in your garden can also bring excellent benefits to your plants and lawn.

Grass clippings are high in nitrogen. When you reuse grass clippings on your lawn or in your garden, they decompose and release nutrients into the soil, where it is absorbed by the plants. Nitrogen encourages leaf growth and supports healthier plants and a more verdant lawn. It is a key component in many commercial plant feeds, so reusing this natural source rather than purchasing it will also save you money – a great budget gardening idea.

Here are four way syou can reuse clippings around your garden to help your plants and greenery flourish.

1. Add to compost

The most common way to reuse grass clippings is to add them to the compost bin or heap. Compost is made from a mix of nitrogen-rich green waste – grass clippings, uncooked vegetables, peelings and fruits – and carbon-rich brown waste – wood, dry leaves, twigs and cardboard. Together, these decompose to create healthy, rich soil that will encourage stronger and healthier plants.

Compost bins are readily available, and designs like this Outsunny 160L Tumbling Compost Bin from Amazon remove the need for manual turning, making the task of creating your own compost even easier.

2. Use as mulch in borders

Grass clippings can be used as an effective mulch across garden borders, vegetable beds and pots. The benefits are instant, but to reuse grass clippings in this way can also have a long-term impact on your soil health.

When you first reuse grass clippings as mulch, it helps lock moisture in the soil – ideal for keeping plants cool during heatwaves. Then, as the grass breaks down, it releases nitrogen into the soil in much the same way as a slow-release fertiliser – like this Lawn Feeder from Amazon. This is what makes it one of the best mulches for vegetable gardens, as plants like cabbage, broccoli and kale particularly benefit from the nitrogen that is released as the grass decays.

It has the added benefit of being a free weed suppressant.

3. Leave on the lawn

One of our favourite lawn care tips – leaving grass clippings on your lawn can actually make your grass look greener. In fact, leaving grass clippings on the lawn is a great way to protect your grass during a heatwave.

'It may be tempting to collect up the grass clippings after mowing, but it can actually be very useful to leave them on the grass. Sprinkling a light layer of cuttings onto your lawn after mowing acts as a mulch that locks in any moisture and nutrients, helping to grow thick, healthy grass!' says experts from garden machinery specialist, Cobra. 'Mulching mowers – like this Cobra model from Amazon – are a fantastic way to do this as they not only mow the lawn, but instead of collecting up the cuttings, automatically return the cuttings to the grass so that it can work its magic!'

To reuse grass clippings, cut the grass using one of the best lawnmowers, then use a rake or broom – like this 10" Yard Broom, currently £12.99 at Amazon – to evenly spread the clippings over the lawn. Avoid mulching when it's wet, as damp clipping won't break down as easily as dry ones. 'Late spring through to late summer is the best period to mulch with grass clippings,' adds lawn expert Jonathan Hill.

4. Use to fill a raised bed

Large raised beds can be daunting (and potentially very costly) to fill. However, if you reuse grass clippings alongside cardboard, shredded newspaper and twigs, you can easily fill a raised bed for free.

‘Green waste is high in nitrogen, such as grass clippings or used coffee grounds, while brown waste is high in carbon, like sawdust, wood shavings, shredded newspaper, or cardboard,' says Darren Stephens, Head Chef and Kitchen Gardener at Bishopstrow Hotel. ‘Layering the two in a raised bed creates heat and breaks down all the matter, turning it into compost.'

You can then top your raised bed with a thick layer of compost – like this Peat-free Westland compost from B&Q – for immediate planting.

So before you chuck those grass clippings in your garden waste bin or bundle them up for a trip to the tip, think of all the ways you could be using them to help your garden to thrive.

If, like me, you’re wondering how to keep your lawn alive during this week’s heatwave, you’ll be pleased to know that the red weather warning doesn’t have to spell disaster for your grass.

There are plenty of ways to keep a garden cool in a heatwave, but we’ve experienced the hottest June day on record this week, which means we need to make sure we’re giving our lawns the TLC they need to survive.

Luckily, there are a few ways to keep a lawn alive during a heatwave – it’s just about knowing how long to leave your grass, when to water it, and which other lawn care tasks are worth adding to your list.

1. Don't cut your grass too short

Knowing how to mow your lawn in hot, dry weather is crucial this week, because short grass is much more vulnerable to stress and heat damage. Longer grass, unsightly as it might seem, will actually protect your lawn right now.

‘Keep grass taller, around three inches, to reduce evaporation, enhance root depth and shade the soil,’ say the experts at Envii. ‘ Mow regularly but never remove more than one-third of the blade length at a time.’

The best robot lawn mowers out there, like the Segway Navimow i208 LiDAR Robot Lawn Mower (which is currently on sale at Amazon), can be set to a mowing schedule that cuts the grass little and often, and this approach tends to be the gold standard for summer lawn care.

Robot lawn mowers can also be healthier for a lawn than traditional lawn mowers, because they’re much gentler on the grass and dispense nutrient-rich mulched grass clippings back onto the lawn.

2. Water deeply

Intense heatwaves dry out lawns much faster than usual, so you’ll need to keep your garden as hydrated as possible. You might be wondering whether you can water your grass in the sun, though – and according to Lawnsmith’s lawn expert, Jonathan Davis, it’s best to stick to the cooler parts of the day.

‘Importantly, water deeply and infrequently, meaning giving your lawn a good soaking early in the morning and early in the evening when the temperatures are lower,’ Jonathan advises.

To save time (and in case, like me, you forget to water your lawn), it’s wise to buy a sprinkler that can be set on a timer. Bundle up this Hozelock Round Sprinkler Plus (which covers up to 254m²) with this Hozelock Sensor Controller Plus to set a watering schedule for your lawn.

3. Watch out for weeds

Weeding your lawn is probably the last thing you want to be doing in this heat, but Jonathan says the combination of recent rainfall and this week’s hot weather can create the perfect breeding ground for the likes of couch grass and creeping thistle. Left unchecked, they’ll take over your lawn.

‘A single weed can release hundreds of seeds if it’s left to flower,’ Jonathan explains. ‘Once those seeds spread across your lawn, you’ve got a much bigger job on your hands.

‘Weeds like dandelions have deep taproots that will regrow if you simply pull the top off. Use a trowel or a dedicated weeding tool to get underneath and remove the full root.’

I’ve been using the GARDENA weed puller, which you can order from B&Q, and it’s halved the time it usually takes to remove stubborn dandelions from my lawn!

Of course, there are ways to recover your lawn if weeds have already taken over – but if they haven't, prevention is better than cure.

4. Consider seaweed fertiliser

If your lawn is looking really worse for wear, it’s worth knowing what to put on your lawn in summer. Not every fertiliser is suitable for use in hot weather, though – especially during this week’s heatwave.

‘If you are looking to feed your grass without the risk of burning or scorching your lawn, the best options are organic or slow-release granular feeds, as well as liquid seaweed formulas,’ says Envii. ‘These are non-synthetic, meaning there are no harsh mineral salts that can scorch the turf.’

Liquid seaweed is perhaps the best option here, and solutions like The Shropshire Seaweed Company Organic Seaweed from Amazon promote strong, healthy grass that, when watered and mown correctly, thrives during a heatwave.

Keep these tips up your sleeve, and your lawn should survive this week's red weather warning.

There's nothing quite like looking out over a lush, green lawn in summer. Unfortunately, many of us find ourselves staring at a patchwork of grass and weeds instead, wondering where it all went wrong.

If your lawn seems to have been taken over by dandelions, plantains, clover or other unwanted visitors, you're certainly not alone. Weeds are opportunistic and will quickly move into any gaps or weaknesses in your lawn care calendar, especially after periods of drought, heavy rain or neglect. Weeding is also a wise move if you're trying to keep your lawn alive during this week's heatwave, since they're more likely to take over your grass right now. Although it is worth remembering that not all weeds are entirely unwanted; many can actually play a valuable role in supporting pollinators and improving biodiversity while your lawn is recovering (hence the No Mow May movement).

The good news is that a weedy lawn doesn't necessarily mean you need to start from scratch. In most cases, even lawns that look beyond saving can be revived with a little time and a few smart lawn care tips.

How to recover your lawn if weeds have taken over

Understanding why weeds appear in your lawn in the first place can help prevent them from returning. Thin, patchy grass, for example, creates the perfect opportunity for weed seeds to germinate, while compacted soil, poor drainage and inconsistent maintenance can all exacerbate the problem in an incredibly persistent way.

That's why lawn experts often recommend you take care of your grass throughout the year, not just when weeds are popping up. Seasonal tasks such as feeding, scarifying, aerating and mowing at the correct height all help create stronger, healthier grass that is naturally better at resisting weed invasion.

So, if you want to recover your lawn if weeds have taken over, the key thing to remember is this: weed control isn't just about removing the weeds you can see. Long-term success comes from improving the overall health of your lawn so that grass can outcompete unwanted plants and reclaim its space naturally.

1. Identify the weeds

Not every weed is the same. 'Identifying what is growing in your lawn will help determine the most effective control method. Dandelions, clover and daisies, for example, are actually very beneficial for pollinators, especially early in the season, so it can be helpful to leave them, or at least for as long as possible in spring,' says Morris Hankinson, director of Hopes Grove Nurseries.

'Moss in a lawn generally means it is damp and shady, which may mean it could be tricky to grow grass in that place anyway, so leaving the moss might be a good idea,' he adds.

2. Focus on building a healthier lawn

According to Peter Chaloner, Managing Director of Cobra Garden Machinery, the most effective weed prevention strategy starts with improving the health of your grass.

'The best defence against weeds is a healthy, thriving lawn,' says Peter. 'Thick, vigorous grass naturally outcompetes weeds for light, water and nutrients, leaving little room for unwanted plants to establish themselves.'

He explains that regular mowing, feeding, scarifying and aerating all play an important role in strengthening your lawn and making it more resistant to future weed problems.

Shop lawn maintenance tools

2. Remove established weeds first

Before you can restore your lawn, you'll need to tackle any established weeds that have already gained a foothold.

'If weeds have already taken over, however, start by removing larger ones by hand or using a suitable lawn weed treatment (like Miracle-Gro's complete 4-in-1, £10 at Amazon), taking care to follow the manufacturer's instructions,' advises Peter.

Hand removal can be particularly effective for larger weeds, especially if you can remove the entire root system. This prevents the plant from quickly re-establishing itself and reduces the likelihood of regrowth.

'When I’m dealing with weeds that have properly rooted into a lawn, I prefer to get hands-on with a hori hori knife,' says Chris O’Donoghue, Director of Gardens Revived. Spear & Jackson's Hori Hori knife, £16.90 at Amazon, is razor-sharp and great for getting right to the root.

'It lets me work down alongside the root and lift the whole plant cleanly, rather than just pulling the top growth and leaving it to come back,' adds Christopher. 'It’s slower than spraying, but it gives a much cleaner result and means fewer gaps are left behind for new weeds to move into.'

You could also try the Niwaki hori hori with pouch from Crocus if you want to try this method for yourself.

Shop top-rated lawn weeding tools

3. Don't ignore bare patches

One of the biggest mistakes homeowners make when trying to recover a lawn after weeds have taken over is leaving behind empty spaces.

Once weeds are removed, those bare patches can quickly become an open invitation for more unwanted plants. Peter recommends overseeding any damaged areas as soon as possible to encourage fresh grass growth.

Combining overseeding with a quality lawn feed, like Garden Lawncare Guy's dark green lawn feed, from £13.99 at Amazon, can help young grass establish more quickly, allowing it to fill gaps and create a denser lawn that naturally suppresses weeds.

Shop lawn seed with quick results

4. Stick to a consistent mowing routine

Regular mowing isn't just about keeping your lawn looking tidy. It's also an important part of figuring out how to recover your lawn after weeds have taken over.

After repairing damaged areas, Peter advises maintaining a consistent mowing schedule to encourage healthy grass growth.

When grass is cut regularly at the appropriate height, it becomes thicker and more vigorous, helping it compete more effectively against weeds. Just avoid cutting too short, as this can weaken the lawn and create opportunities for weeds to return.

5. Deal with stubborn weeds properly

Some weeds require a little more persistence than others. Dandelions, in particular, are notorious for reappearing.

'Many weed control methods offer only a short-term fix, so it's important to address the underlying health of the lawn to prevent regrowth,' says Peter.

'Dandelions, for example, thrive in thin or patchy grass and have deep roots, meaning simply mowing them won't solve the problem. Removing the entire root with a hand tool is often the most effective approach, although any holes left behind should be reseeded.'

While weedkillers can be effective when used correctly, they can cause enormous problems for local wildlife, not to mention damage to surrounding grass. Best to avoid, wherever possible.

FAQs

It can be tempting to look for a quick fix when trying to recover your lawn after weeds have taken over, but lasting results rarely happen overnight.

'With patience and ongoing care, a healthy lawn will gradually fill out, helping to prevent weeds from returning and restoring a dense, green finish,' promises Peter.

Rather than viewing weed removal as a one-off task, then, we say to think of it as part of a broader lawn care routine. Because, by focusing on soil health, regular maintenance and encouraging strong grass growth, you'll create the kind of lawn that's naturally better equipped to keep weeds at bay for years to come.

I always thought weeding the lawn was a boring, strenuous task, but then I got my hands on the GARDENA Weed Puller – and it swiftly proved me wrong.

If you’re looking for ways to get rid of weeds in your lawn, I can’t recommend this tool enough. It’s a robust, long-handled weed puller that’s super easy to use, and it targets stubborn, tap-rooted weeds like dandelions right at the root, removing the entire thing in one swoop. At £40 from B&Q, it’s a little pricier than other weed pullers out there, but having tried it in my own garden, I’d absolutely pay more for a durable piece of kit that makes light work of tough weeds.

My lawn was covered in weeds, and it’s really hard and compacted, so I thought it was going to be a long road to tackling them all – but the GARDENA Weed Puller halved the amount of time I expected it to take, and actually made the task really fun.

If I had to rank garden tools by ease of use, I think I’d put the GARDENA Weed Puller in S tier. It’s a simple design: long, with a comfortable handle grip on the end, and light enough to use comfortably over longer sessions.

What struck me, though, is that those ‘longer’ weeding sessions weren’t that long at all. The weed puller is really easy to use – you simply push the sharp end of the tool over the centre of the weed, using the footrest to push it in as far as you can, and then twist the handle 180 degrees before pulling the tool (and the weed) out from the lawn. I thought it would be tricky to dig the blades all the way in because my lawn is so dry and in need of revival, but they’re so sharp that it didn’t take nearly as much effort as I expected.

There’s also a built-in ejector mechanism that you simply slide to push and release the weed from the weed puller. It’s so easy to use and allows you to quickly clear each weed before tackling the next.

The GARDENA weed puller successfully retrieved each weed (in its entirety – tap root and all!) 99% of the time. The other 1% was just down to my positioning the weed puller wrong, so it’s a really accurate tool. I had some huge dandelions in my lawn, but it was no more difficult to remove those than the smaller weeds out there. It’s also really satisfying to pull the whole root system out of the soil, rather than pluck the leaves from the surface like other weeding tools tend to do.

The only thing that alarmed me, at first, was the holes the weed puller leaves in its wake. They’re sizeable enough to notice, especially once they’ve removed larger weeds – but I like to think of it as a form of lawn aeration (which my compacted lawn absolutely needs!)

Reviewers agree that the GARDENA Weed Puller ‘makes weeding the lawn so much easier,’ with another noting that it’s ‘an amazing back saver and so efficient and quick.’ One reviewer mentioned that it can ‘get into the hardest soil,’ too, which I can vouch for, because my lawn is dry, hard, and stony in places.

Other weeding tools we rate

The GARDENA weed puller is well worth the investment if you're looking for a robust weeding tool that can tackle even the stubbornest weeds in your lawn.

Dandelions are often dismissed as a weed, but they’re actually unsung heroes of the garden – there are plenty of benefits of keeping dandelions in your lawn in May, if you’re looking to lend wildlife a helping hand.

If you're wondering if you should leave dandelions in your lawn, the answer, this month, is a resounding yes. As it’s No Mow May, I thought I’d take a closer look at the advantages of leaving the underrated weed in your garden. It’s one of those weeds you should leave in your lawn, especially if you’re taking part in the Plantlife campaign this month.

Still on the fence? Here are a few benefits of keeping dandelions in your lawn.

No Mow May kit

1. Bees love them

The most obvious benefit of keeping dandelions in your lawn is the fact that bees absolutely adore them for their nectar. There are lots of other plants that bees love, sure, but dandelions are the low-effort way to keep them happy – and they’re even more crucial at this time of the year.

‘We really need to stop treating dandelions like the enemy, especially in May,’ says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. ‘They are the first real source of food for bees coming out of winter; if you mow them all down, you're essentially taking away their nectar and summer food.

If you’re keen to go all out and turn your lawn into a haven for pollinators, Johnsons Lawn Seed's Nature’s Lawn, which you can buy at Crocus, includes slow-growing grasses and native mow-tolerant wildflowers. It’s perfect for tiding your garden over to the end of No Mow May (and beyond!).

2. They're important to other wildlife, too

Bees aren’t the only insects that love dandelions – other pollinators like butterflies benefit from them, too, so they're a crucial part of our garden ecosystems. Even birds like goldfinches enjoy snacking on the seedheads.

‘Dandelions can actually play a really valuable role in supporting garden wildlife, particularly early in the season when other food sources for pollinators are still scarce,’ explains Guy Jenkins, consumer manager at Johnsons Lawn Seed, the UK’s oldest lawn seed brand.

‘Their bright yellow flowers provide an important source of nectar and pollen for bees and other insects emerging after winter, as well as the many birds that visit our gardens.’

3. They can improve lawn health

If you’re wondering if your lawn is compacted, dandelions could be the silent rescuers your garden needs.

‘Beyond the bees, those long roots are actually doing you a favour by breaking up hard, compacted soil and bringing nutrients up to the surface,’ explains Julian.

‘They’re like a natural aerator for your lawn, and because they root so deeply, they stay green when the grass starts to turn brown in the sun. This helps keep your soil from drying out completely.’

If you suspect that your lawn is compacted, it’s wise to learn how to aerate your lawn and invest in a tool like Spear & Jackson Lawn Spike Aerator from Amazon – but dandelions are certainly a handy companion.

4. They pair well with other wildflowers

Whether you’ve planted shade-loving wildflowers for a cottage garden look or classic favourites like cornflowers this year, dandelions pair really well with naturalistic planting schemes.

‘Dandelions sit nicely alongside other wildflowers to give a garden a vibrant and whimsical style,’ says Chris McIlroy, grass expert at The Grass People.

‘Sowing a 100% wildflower mix with UK native cornfield annuals is a good idea for introducing a pop of colour, and the mix won’t need particularly good soil for the wildflowers to thrive.’

So, if you haven’t sown wildflower seeds already and want to make your lawn as beautiful as it is wildlife-friendly, it’s worth throwing some down this May. This Wildflowers 'Ultimate Mix' Seed Scatter Pack from Thompson & Morgan is perfect for attracting bees and butterflies to your garden.

There are plenty of reasons why you should keep clover in your lawn for No Mow May, too.

I love an Aldi special buy, my home includes many things I've snapped up from the middle aisle during a weekly shop. However, when I was considering recommending the new bargain Aldi robot mower to a friend, I was warned off it by Ideal Home's robot lawn mower tester, who recommended the budget Bosch VISIMOW at B&Q instead.

At Ideal Home, we've recently tested out a whole load of the best robot lawn mowers, and after gaining hands-on experience and interviewing a number of industry experts, we've learned a lot more about robot mowers since we first covered Aldi launching the Yard Force robot mower in 2025.

Initially, I was impressed by the bargain price of Aldi's option. At £199, Aldi's robot mower is one of the cheapest models on the market; it's even £92 cheaper than the same Yard Force robot mower model sold on Amazon for £291. However, while we haven't tested the Aldi mower, it was the product description that made our robot mower reviewer and Garden Editor Sophie King sceptical about how good a buy it actually was.

She spotted lowdown in the product description that the Aldi robot mower uses a boundary wire, a feature that made her visibly shudder.

Sophie has tested all the latest robot lawn mowers at Ideal Home, and would personally never recommend choosing one with a boundary wire. A boundary wire is a physical cable you have to lay around the edge of your lawn to define the operating area for the robot lawn mower. They're part of why early robot mowers had a reputation for being quite a faff to set up.

'There definitely seems to be a shift away from robot mowers with boundary wires, with more and more brands releasing wire-free models that use GPS tracking and smart cameras to navigate a lawn,' explains Sophie. 'I've tested lots of robot lawn mowers without boundary wires, and they're so much simpler - setup is fuss-free, super simple, and a lot quicker than those that require wire installation.'

If the low price is the most important factor to you and you're not bothered by the prospect of a wire installation, you can give the Aldi robot mower a go. However, if you're after something that's a tried and tested easy-to-set-up robot mower, Sophie recommends the Bosch VISIMOW, which she gave 4 out of 5 stars in her review. The Bosch VISMOW can be picked up for £354 at B&Q right now, so it's around £150 more expensive than Aldi's

'For faff-free setup, the Bosch VISIMOW is well worth the extra £150 - it's ready at the press of three buttons, it gives grass a smooth cut, and its camera technology is so intelligent for the price,' Sophie explains.

The Bosch VISMOW is designed for smaller lawns up to 100m², while the Aldi one is suitable for lawns up to 400m². There isn't an app for it to connect to like more expensive mowers like the Eufy E15 that can map your lawn. However, it is quiet, compact and easy to set up for beginners testing the waters with a robot mower.

If you are looking for something a little more sophisticated, these are the two other boundary wire-free robot mowers we'd recommend.

Spotted clover in your grass? Don’t panic, especially at this time of the year – because there are plenty of reasons you should keep clover in your lawn for No Mow May.

If you were wondering whether or not you should get rid of clover in your lawn, hold your horses – I’ve spoken to the experts, and every single one of them has raved about the benefits of clover for biodiversity in the garden. No Mow May is all about boosting biodiversity – so hanging onto clover is a no-brainer.

Here’s why you should leave clover in your lawn for No Mow May this year.

1. It’s a brilliant nectar source

Clover is one of those weeds you should leave in your garden for the pollinators, because when it’s in flower, it’s a fantastic source of nectar for the likes of bees and butterflies.

‘Clover flowers provide an important food source for pollinators such as bees and butterflies, helping to boost garden biodiversity at a critical time of year,’ says Guy Jenkins, consumer manager at Johnsons Lawn Seed. ‘It establishes relatively quickly, works well alongside most grass species, and begins delivering benefits such as improved soil structure and reduced reliance on fertilisers.’

If you don’t already have clover in your lawn, you can actually buy clover lawn seed like this Gardeners Dream micro clover lawn seed from Amazon.

2. It’s low-maintenance

If you’re looking for low-maintenance lawn alternatives to grass, clover is one of the best options you could go for. Plus, it’s slow-growing, which makes it ideal for No Mow May.

'Clover is perfect for No Mow May as it grows slower than other grasses, so your lawn won’t be unruly if you leave clover growing for a few weeks,’ explains Chris McIlroy, lawn expert at The Grass People.

‘It also has a deeper root system, which means it can stay greener throughout dry spells, saving you both time and resources by requiring less watering.’

For an even lower-maintenance and more wildlife-friendly lawn, Johnsons Lawn Seed Nature's Lawn (available at Crocus) includes wildflowers that can be mown.

3. It’s good for the grass

Ever heard of green manures? In a nutshell, they’re sown into garden beds to enrich the soil with nitrogen.

As luck would have it, clover is a popular green manure – so it only makes sense that sowing a clover lawn has similar benefits.

‘It can act as a natural fertiliser by levelling out the nitrogen in the soil,’ explains Chris. ‘This means it self-feeds and improves soil without extra fertiliser.’

Can I add clover to my lawn?

If clover doesn’t reside in your lawn already, you can absolutely add it in. First, you’ll need to work out the best time to sow a clover lawn.

‘Timing-wise, spring and early autumn are ideal for sowing, ensuring good soil contact and consistent moisture for germination,’ says Guy from Johnsons Lawn Seed.

Then, it’s a similar process to overseeding a lawn with regular grass seed.

‘Clover is relatively easy to add into an existing lawn,’ says Chris from The Grass People. ‘You can overseed areas with clover seeds to create a more balanced and resilient lawn.

‘Just loosen off surface soil in areas you want to add clover seed to, sow, and then cover again to ensure good seed-to-soil contact.’

What you'll need

There are a number of benefits of keeping dandelions in your lawn for No Mow May, too.

Ever wondered what Alan Titchmarsh’s advice for keeping rats away from your garden might look like? You're in luck; the gardening guru has some top tips for keeping them out of your garden ahead of the warmer weather, but one of his tips is a little divisive, with no mow May coming up.

One of Alan Titchmarsh’s key pieces of advice for how to keep rats away from your garden revolves almost entirely around the state of your lawn. Why? Well, because he says letting your grass grow unchecked creates the perfect environment for rats to move around undetected.

'Rats are furtive. They like cover and shelter,' he explained in a video for BBC Gardeners' World Magazine. 'They do not like close-mown grass where they can be seen. They much prefer it longer.'

He goes on to explain that, 'if you have got long grass everywhere, that gives them access'.

'Cut it short… and that way you can see, no rats.'

On the surface, it’s classic, common-sense gardening advice; tidy spaces tend to be less inviting for pests, after all. But there’s just one problem: it directly clashes with one of the UK’s biggest wildlife movements, No Mow May, which kicks off this weekend.

While Alan Titchmarsh shared his advice in the summer last year, the presenter and gardener is known for being a sceptic of the No Mow May movement.

Spearheaded by conservation groups, No Mow May encourages gardeners to put away their lawnmowers for the month to allow wildflowers and grasses to grow freely. The aim is to support pollinators like bees and butterflies, which rely on these habitats for food and shelter.

With more than half of Britain’s butterfly species having declined since 1976, many experts are urging gardeners to embrace a more relaxed approach to lawn care... even if it means a slightly wilder-looking garden.

So, do gardeners need to choose between supporting biodiversity and keeping pests at bay? Well, not necessarily...

If you want to help local wildlife and follow Alan Titchmarsh’s advice for keeping rats away from your garden, Nick Ee, product manager at BLACK+DECKER, believes there’s a middle ground that allows you to do both.

'Whilst our Grassroots campaign is focused on helping people create beautiful-looking gardens for them to enjoy, we are equally committed to encouraging participation in No Mow May as a way to create healthy spaces that support the UK’s biodiversity,' he explains.

Rather than abandoning mowing entirely or sticking rigidly to a short lawn, Nick suggests a more flexible approach: zoning your garden. 'If you’re keen to take part in No Mow May but worried that longer grass might attract unwanted pests, try dedicating a smaller section of your lawn to grow freely,' he advises.

By keeping the rest of your lawn trimmed and framing your longer grass area with a border or low fence, you can reduce the likelihood of rats venturing further into your garden while still providing a valuable habitat for wildlife.

It’s a practical compromise, basically, and one that reflects how many modern gardeners are rethinking their outdoor spaces.

If you plan to follow Alan Titchmarsh’s advice for keeping rats away from your garden, Nick suggests focusing on your wildlife efforts away from the usual trick of allowing your lawn to grow wild.

'To support wildlife after No Mow May, try building something like a bee hotel,' he says, noting that positioning these in a sunny, sheltered spot near pollinator-friendly plants can further boost your garden’s biodiversity.

Other tips for getting rid of rats

The lawn tip isn't Alan's only advice for keeping rats out of your garden this spring and summer. One of his other top tips for making rats feel 'less comfortable' in your garden includes keeping an eye on your compost heap or bin, where rats gravitate to because of the heat.

'Make sure the structure is solid, I've got really strong wooden sides on mine, but above all else I've also got steel sheeting right around the back,' he says, tapping his compost container. He continues that they can bury underneath, but it makes it harder for them. He also recommends avoiding adding any cooked or processed food to your compost heap, as that's just 'an open invitation to rats'.

He also points out that bird feeders can be a magnet for rats, so he recommends placing them in an open space in the middle of the lawn, as rats hate running through an exposed area. It is also worth investing in a rat-proof bird feeder like this one on Amazon.

The trick to keeping rats out of your garden in a sustainable away is, essentially, to try to combine careful maintenance with intentional wild spaces so that you can create a garden that is both beautiful and beneficial... one that supports wildlife without rolling out the welcome mat for pests.

If you haven’t followed No Mow May before, 2026 might be the year you give it a whirl – because experts are warning that leaving our grass alone this month is more important than ever.

No Mow May is exactly what it says on the tin: not mowing your lawn for the entire month, allowing pollinators free rein to enjoy the grass and wildflowers (from which they collect nectar and food). It’s Plantlife’s yearly campaign to support biodiversity in our back gardens.

Here’s why you shouldn’t cut your grass for No Mow May, why it's so crucial this year, and how to take part in the campaign.

No Mow May kit

Why is No Mow May so important in 2026?

No Mow May seems like a counterproductive lawn care tip, but going just one month without mowing your lawn can have a barrow-load of benefits for bees, butterflies and other pollinators.

This year, those perks are all the more important. According to home improvement specialists BLACK+DECKER, who have partnered with Natasha Wright, wildlife vet and campaign co-ordinator at Naturewatch Foundation, ‘New research reveals more than half of Britain's butterfly species have declined since 1976, and experts are calling on Brits to support ‘No Mow May’ for just one month to help protect the nation’s butterflies.’

Contrary to popular belief, No Mow May doesn’t mean you have to leave all of your grass uncut for the month. If you’re struggling to put your best lawn mower away, you can leave a patch of grass alone instead.

‘You can still support No Mow May and keep your garden looking cared for by leaving only certain sections to grow wild, planting colourful native plant species to add visual interest, and maintaining neat edges or paths to create a balanced, intentional look,’ says Natasha. ‘This way, your garden remains both wildlife-friendly and well-kept.’

There are a few different ways you can take part in No Mow May, from sparing weeds to leaving your lawn alone entirely. If you’re keen to join in, here’s how to do it.

How to take part in No Mow May

1. Don't mow your grass

The most obvious and all-in approach to No Mow May is, well, not mowing your lawn in May. Long grass has a surprising number of benefits for pollinating insects, and I think a one-month hiatus from mowing is just about manageable (even for those of us who like a manicured lawn!).

‘Longer grass provides essential habitat for butterflies to lay eggs and for larvae to develop,’ explains Guy Jenkins, consumer manager at Johnsons Lawn Seed. ‘With around three-quarters of UK butterfly species in decline, even small changes can make a meaningful difference.’

There are lots of other ways to attract butterflies to your garden, too, like planting buddleia and other butterfly-friendly shrubs.

2. Spare the edges

If forgoing lawn mowing altogether is just too much to bear, you can take part in No Mow May by leaving strips of grass uncut instead.

‘Leaving a single strip or corner unmown counts,’ says Lucy Hewitt, Marketing Campaigns Manager at British Garden Centres. ‘The strip of grass along a fence or wall is often the last thing people mow and the first thing they forget about.'

That's why it's worth pausing before you straighten your lawn edges.

'These thin margins are useful to wildlife because they are sheltered and undisturbed,' Lucy explains. 'Hedgehogs, ground beetles and solitary bees all use them, so leave this even if it does look unkempt, as it is a haven for wildlife.'

3. Leave weeds alone

Yup – there are some weeds that you should leave in the garden. It’s actually a really important practice during No Mow May – because a lot of weeds are flowering, which means plants like dandelions carry loads of benefits for wildlife.

‘Dandelions and clover are the plants most gardeners spend the year trying to remove, but are exactly what No Mow May is about,’ says Lucy. ‘They are among the best sources of nectar available to bees in early spring. Leaving them alone for a month is one of the most useful things a gardener can do.’

That means it’s fine – even recommended – to leave clover in your lawn. Or, you could buy clover lawn seed like this Gardeners Dream White Micro Clover Lawn Seed from Amazon.

4. Sprinkle wildflower seeds

You could also sow wildflower seeds onto your lawn to provide pollinating insects with even more sources of nectar.

Nature’s Lawn Seed by Johnsons Lawn Seed, which you can buy from Crocus, provides lawns with even more wildlife benefits.

‘Taking part doesn’t mean letting your garden become unkempt,’ says Guy. ‘Nature’s Lawn offers a flexible solution – a resilient lawn that can be kept neat when mown, but equally left to grow more freely to support wildlife.

'Blending slow-growing, drought-tolerant grasses with native perennial wildflowers, it creates a practical, family-friendly space that becomes richer in biodiversity over time, as flowers establish and naturally self-seed.’

With declining butterfly populations and a strong focus on biodiversity this year, it's more important than ever that you don't cut your grass for No Mow May – or that you leave wilder patches in your garden for pollinating insects to enjoy.

For cutting lawn edges with precision, comfort and low noise, STIHL's new grass trimmer is one of my new favourites.

In fact, I'd go as far as saying that the STIHL FSA 50 Cordless Grass Trimmer, which you can order for £149 without the battery from Just Lawnmowers, is one of the best cordless strimmers on the market right now. If you’re looking for a powerful grass trimmer that’s a little bit quieter than the vast majority of other strimmers, this is the tool I’d recommend. It does a brilliant job of trimming lawn edges and grass with speed and precision.

This STIHL FSA 50 Cordless Grass Trimmer review will look at unboxing, setup, design, ease of use, performance and maintenance. I tested the trimmer in my own small garden. Have a read, and see if it's the right trimmer for you...

In a nutshell

The STIHL FSA 50 Grass Trimmer seriously impressed me – it trimmed my grass and lawn edges at speed, even reaching underneath low-growing shrubs that regular lawn mowers tend to miss.

It's a robust machine that feels as comfortable as it is high-quality. It's light and balanced during use, and also really easy to assemble. For small gardens, it's a must – but it is quite powerful, so you'll need to learn to control it properly to avoid scalping your lawn.

Specifications

• Type: Cordless, battery-operated
• Cutting width: 2.9kg
• Weight: 2.9kg
• Sound power level: 82dB
• Running time: 25 minutes

Unboxing

The STIHL FSA 50 came in a slim cardboard box that was light enough to carry through the house and into the garden. There was minimal packaging inside, save for a few cardboard strips and wedges to hold the trimmer in place and a couple of plastic bags that housed the screws and other components.

The battery and charger were enclosed in an inner cardboard box at one end of the main box, the battery wrapped in a plastic bag. If your trimmer doesn't come with a battery, you can buy the STIHL AK 10 battery from Amazon, and the STIHL AL 101 battery charger from Amazon, too.

Setup

The STIHL FSA 50 Grass Trimmer took me less than half an hour to assemble, and the instructions were really easy to follow. The trimmer must be turned off for safety, so it’s crucial that you don’t insert the battery before this stage (more on that shortly).

First, I attached the deflector. I simply had to push the guard into the guides on the housing, and then insert and tighten two screws to hold them together. The guard has to stay on once assembled, and mustn’t be removed.

Then, I had to mount the bump guard by inserting its ends into the holes on the housing. It was as simple as that! There were also instructions on mounting and removing the mowing head, which were really easy to understand.

I had to install the loop handle, too, and for that, I needed the accompanying star knob nut. Once fitted, the loop handle mustn’t be removed either.

I love that you can adjust the shaft angle to three different angles on the STIHL FSA 50 to suit different heights. It’s really straightforward – you simply have to press the release pedal, move the shaft into the required position until it engages, and then let go of the release again. You can also adjust the shaft length by toggling the clamp nut.

I also had to ensure the battery (which comes with a charger) was charged before getting started (it was!), and then pop the battery into the trimmer. It was really easy to insert, with a satisfying ‘click’ that told me it was in place.

To turn the grass trimmer on, the instructions are a little more complicated, requiring you to press and hold the trigger in a certain way to switch the machine on, but I soon got the hang of that, too.

Design

Before we dive into how well the STIHL FSA 50 Grass Trimmer performed in my garden, it makes sense to get familiar with its key design features.

It’s certainly ergonomic – the trimmer is fitted with a soft grip round handle that’s easily adjustable without tools. The telescopic shaft is adjustable, too, and the mowing head can be set at three different angles, allowing you to reach trickier areas like slopes and under trees and furniture. You can even rotate the mowing head 90 degrees for easier lawn edge trimming.

I also love that the spacer bracket protects plants and other objects in the garden from damage during trimming.

STIHL always designs its tools with the user in mind, which means the FSA 50, like other tools in the range, has excellent balance. It’s also pretty lightweight at 2.9kg, so it isn’t a slog to use like heavier trimmers on the market.

Performance

STIHL says the FSA 50 grass trimmer offers ‘practically flawless trimming thanks to the new spacer on the tool,’ and during testing, it lived up to those claims. I was stunned by the clean edge it left on the grass that runs alongside my garden border, and it was a lot easier to use than I expected.

At first, I thought the spacer would stop the trimmer from cutting the grass along my raised garden border, but miraculously, it didn’t – in fact, it gave those hard-to-reach parts of my lawn a really good trim. With the mowing head set at the lowest angle, trimming the grass beneath the lower-growing shrubs in my garden, which even the best lawn mowers out there often miss, was a piece of cake.

The only downside (which can also be a total plus side, depending on the task at hand) was that the trimmer was so powerful, you had to be careful not to scalp your lawn during grass trimming. Luckily, its ergonomic design made it easy enough to hold and control – but it does take a little bit of practice when you first get started.

There’s a variable speed trigger on the trimmer that allows more precision in control of the mowing head, and STIHL says that can help extend the working life of your battery, too.

What really appealed to me about the STIHL FSA 50, though, was that it has lower noise emissions than a lot of other cordless strimmers on the market. It boasts a sound power level of 82dB, which is 7dB less than our previous favourite low-noise strimmer, the STIHL FSA 57. It’s still noisy enough, of course – strimmers will never be as quiet as robot lawn mowers, for example – but it certainly isn’t intrusive. That said, STIHL supplied me with protective earmuffs, which you’re advised to wear during use.

Speaking of safety, you’ll also need to wear protective goggles when using the STIHL FSA 50 Grass Trimmer. Debris does fly up at you as you cut, so it’s crucial that you have eye protection in place to avoid injury.

On a full charge with the AK 10 battery, you’ll get 25 minutes of working time. That’s more than enough time in a small garden like mine – and with the speed and power of STIHL FSA 50, my lawn edges were neatened up in no time at all. In fact, I don’t think I’ve ever edged my lawn so fast. You can buy more powerful batteries with a longer runtime if you’re working in a larger garden.

Maintenance

STIHL makes maintenance easy, too – the FSA 50 is supplied with the AutoCut 3-2 mowing head, which can be refilled without using tools. That cuts a lot of the faff, in my opinion.

If you’d prefer to use the Polycut 3-2 Mowing Head (which is sold separately), you can swap it out. Basically, that one is a mowing head with two movable plastic blades that’s designed for cutting medium-height grass, lawn edges and tougher vegetation (it’s a bit more robust for harder jobs), whilst the original AutoCut 3-2 mowing head is the standard for efficient mowing and clearing.

Verdict: Should you buy the STIHL FSA 50 Cordless Grass Trimmer?

If you're looking for a robust garden trimmer that doubles up as a brushcutter and isn't too noisy, the STIHL FSA Cordless Grass Trimmer is definitely worth the investment. It's a solid tool that's well-suited to edging small lawns with precision and enough power to tackle tougher grass and weeds, too.

If you’re new to the realm of robot lawn mowers and want a fuss-free machine that’s as easy as it is good at mowing, I have one recommendation for you: the Bosch VISIMOW18V-100 Robot Lawn Mower, RRP £349.95 at Amazon.

Of all the models I’ve tested so far, I think it’s one of the best robot lawn mowers on the market – especially if you’re looking for a budget-friendly, wire-free machine that doesn’t compromise on intelligence and cutting ability. It’s designed for smaller lawns up to 100m², so it’s perfect for compact outdoor spaces – and the straightforward setup made it a breeze to use.

Here’s what I thought of the Bosch VISIMOW18V-100 Robot Lawn Mower when I reviewed it on my 38m² lawn.

In a nutshell

The Bosch VISIMOW18V-100 is the simplest robot mower I've tested, but by no means the least capable. Its cutting ability is impressive, tackling the areas of my lawn (specifically, around my stepping stones) that other robot mowers have missed.

It's so easy to set up – after inserting the battery, you only need to press three buttons. At 52dB, it's the quietest robot lawn mower I've tested, so you barely remember it's there during mowing!

The only downside? It's a little fiddly to remove the battery. It also doesn't connect to an app like robot lawn mowers at higher price points, so there's no lawn mapping, and less customisation.

For users who prefer a straightforward setup that cuts grass evenly using smart camera and sensor technology, though, it's a steal for the price.

Specifications

• Max. lawn size: 100m²
• Cutting height range: 20-60mm
• Cutting width: 16cm
• Max. climbing ability: 35% (19°)
• Dimensions: 42.9 x 34.8 x 22.6 cm
• Weight: 7.6kg (with battery)
• Noise level: 52dB
• Warranty: 2 years

Unboxing

The Bosch VISIMOW18V-100 Robot Lawn Mower, packaged, was the easiest robot mower I’ve had to lift and unpack. It came in a box that was barely larger than the mower itself, thanks to the fact that this machine doesn’t require a charging station (it’s battery-operated).

The packaging was minimal, with just a sheet of paper wrapped around the mower and a few stick-on strips and cardboard wedges along the outer edges of the mower and buttons to protect it from scratches. That meant it was far better for the environment, of course, but I suppose some people would argue that the mower could’ve been better protected. With careful transportation and delivery, though (both of which my machine had), that shouldn't be an issue.

The battery came separately (although you can buy the Bosch VISIMOW18V-100 Robot Lawn Mower and battery as a bundle, like this one from QVC), in a cardboard box that also included the charging port.

Setup

Setup was an absolute breeze. The Bosch VISIMOW18V-100’s quick start guide boasts a simple three-button setup – ‘Place, Press, Mow’ – and it’s not joking. The instructions are on the inner flaps of the cardboard box the mower comes in.

Before that, though, you’ll need to make sure the battery is charged. Mine was already charged when I put it into the charging dock, and the flashing green light on the front makes it easy to monitor charging progress.

Then, it was a case of inserting the battery into the robot mower. There’s a flap on the back of the mower with a red button that you press to lift. It was easy enough to push the battery in until a satisfying click let me know that it was inserted properly.

Before you turn the mower on (or when the 'Stop' button is pressed and the mower is in standby mode), you’ll need to adjust the cutting height (there's a range of 20-60mm, which rivals many of the best lawn mowers on the market) using the dial below the buttons before pressing those buttons.

Once the mower powered on, it was time to test that three-button 'Place, Press, Mow' setup. It really was a case of just pressing three buttons (which are numbered) on the top of the mower in a simple sequence: the fourth (On/Start), followed by the third (Auto Mow), and then the fourth again.

The Bosch VISIMOW18V-100 doesn’t connect to an app like other robot lawn mowers I’ve tested. That’s a drawback if you’re looking for ‘smarter’ features and the ability to map your lawn and customise setup from your phone – but for gardeners looking for a simple, fuss-free setup that will crack on with lawn mowing so they don’t have to, it’s perfect.

So, let’s dive into how it performed on my lawn…

Performance

I tested the Bosch VISIMOW18V-100 on my 38m² lawn. The robot mower is designed for small gardens with lawns up to 100m², which is brilliant considering its compact size (it’s the smallest one I’ve tested so far).

After I completed the three-button setup, the mower set off on my lawn. On this ‘Auto Mow’ setting, the Bosch VISIMOW uses a SmartVision system to target uncut patches of grass. Its cameras very intelligently detect where your lawn needs to be mowed, and this process manifests as a random mowing pattern that startled me a bit, initially.

That’s because many other robot lawn mowers (usually those that map your lawn) tend to cut your grass in a classic ‘up-and-down’ pattern. Not the Bosch VISIMOW, though – it zig-zagged horizontally, vertically and diagonally across my lawn, and you could almost see it mulling everything over, thinking about where it would go next.

If you’re a fan of lawn stripes, that won’t be music to your ears – it doesn't produce a striped effect like robot lawn mowers that follow a mapped route often do – but what I can say is that the result was an evenly cut lawn. It’s one of the best I’ve seen a robot lawn mower do, actually – and stripes or not, my lawn looked like a smooth sea of green by the time it had finished. It didn't quite cut the outer edges of my lawn, but I've yet to see a robot mower that perfects that (and that's where a cordless strimmer can come in handy).

The Bosch VISIMOW18V-100 handled the stepping stones that run down the mid-to-right section of my lawn with ease, too, covering more of the margins of each stone than some of the other robot lawn mowers I’ve tested. It also trampled over dead leaves on my lawn with no qualms, and I'm pretty sure it mulched them up, too.

Its ‘semi-autonomous’ freedom means it can mow multiple lawns and zones, too, which is perfect if you have different segments of lawn on the same level in your garden. My lawn is level, but the Bosch VISIMOW18V-100 can navigate slopes with a gradient of up to 35%. The instruction manual says that you should block off steeper slopes than that with a vertical border higher than 6cm prior to mowing.

The Bosch VISIMOW uses ultrasonic sensors and bump sensors for grass recognition and obstacle avoidance. I found that object avoidance wasn’t quite as good as other robot lawn mowers have demonstrated in testing – the VISIMOW never bumped into fixed objects like my garden border, but when I threw objects like my cap in front of the mower last-minute, it would ‘boop’ them on occasion before stopping and rerouting. It didn’t actually run over the objects, but it wasn’t as responsive as other robot mowers I’ve tested at higher price points.

What I did find, though, was that the mower was good at covering patches of lawn under lower-growing shrubs in my garden border. The mower’s compact size means it was better able to achieve that coverage in my garden than some of the larger robot lawn mowers on the market. There’s also a SpotMow mode that targets specific areas of grass (an area of approximately 2m² is mowed anticlockwise), like under garden furniture, for example. It's a handy option if AutoMow missed a few patches of grass.

The VISIMOW18V-100 took around an hour to cut my grass in total, which was considerably longer than some of the more expensive robot lawn mowers I’ve tested. So, it’s not one for speedy mowing tasks – but if you’re happy to let the mower do its thing in the background, I’d say it’s a pretty good compromise.

Like most other robot lawn mowers out there, there’s no collection bag on the VISIMOW, so the fine grass clippings are dispensed onto the lawn after they’ve been cut. Any clippings up to 20mm are actually mulched, and leaving grass clippings on your lawn in this medium can have a number of benefits.

Design

The Bosch VISIMOW18V-100 is the smallest robot mower I’ve tested, and it’s designed with small spaces in mind. At just 22.6 x 42.9 x 34.8 cm, it’s compact enough to be stored away without taking up too much space, and it’s also much lighter than many other robot mowers at 6.9kg. That means it’s easier to carry – and to make things even smoother, there’s a handle on the top of the mower, which a lot of other machines on the market don’t have.

The button layout on the top of the mower is really simple, too, with just four buttons, a cutting height dial and a large red ‘Stop’ button. There are two larger wheels on either side of the back end of the mower, and one smaller swivelling wheel underneath the mower at the front, which you can’t see when the mower is on the ground.

The battery compartment is in the back end of the mower, beneath a flap. While it was easy to get the battery into its slot, I did struggle to remove the battery afterwards. There’s a red button you press to release the battery, but I found that even after I did that, I had to wrestle with the battery a bit before it came out.

Overall, the Bosch VISIMOW feels like a robust machine, with a clear button layout and a simple design.

Cleaning and maintenance

Naturally, the Bosch VISIMOW gets a very grassy underside during mowing, but it’s easy enough to turn the mower over (once you're sure it's switched off) and brush away the debris. There are three small blades on the middle disc, so you’ll need to be careful around those – and it can be tricky to get some of the grass out from behind the wheels.

What’s really impressive about the Bosch VISIMOW, though, is that it boasts a Brushless cutter motor. Bosch says it provides superior performance and a longer motor lifetime because it has no carbon brushes that wear out over time – and as well as powerful cutting ability, that means less maintenance, too.

There's a really handy troubleshooting guide in the instruction manual that tackles any issues you might find during setup and mowing.

Robot mowers often require occasional software updates, and the same applies to the Bosch VISIMOW18V-100. The instruction manual says you'll need a USB flash drive (FAT 32 formatted), and when a new software version is available online, you'll need to load the software file onto the USB stick and follow the download instructions in the manual. That's the only thing I'd have reservations about, actually; many gardeners might find that too much of a hassle.

How does it compare to other models?

The Bosch VISIMOW 18V-100 Robot Lawn Mower is battery-operated, which sets it apart from many other robot mowers on the market that charge via a charging station. It's much better for gardens where space is at a premium, and there's less room for a charging dock. You'll just need to remember to charge the battery inside.

There's also no accompanying app for the Bosch VISIMOW, which means you can't customise and map your lawn from your phone like you can with the Eufy E15, for example. For users who prefer to set specific tasks and watch the progress from their own device, that's a downside – but the SpotMow feature on the Bosch VISIMOW does allow you to target patches of grass up to two metres away.

What sets the Bosch VISIMOW apart from other models, for me, is how quiet it is. It's considerably more subtle than other robot mowers I've tested, and it's also a lot smaller and more compact for storage.

Verdict: Should you buy the Bosch VISIMOW18V-100 Robot Lawn Mower?

Overall, I think the Bosch VISIMOW18V-100 is an absolute steal its price tag. It's so easy to setup, which makes it perfect for beginners and busy gardeners alike, and it provides a smooth cut via a random mowing pattern that relies on smart cameras and sensors.

There's less customisation to be had, since the mower can't be controlled via a companion app, but for a lot of users, that can make things even more straightforward. In terms of design, the only downside is that the battery can be tricky to remove (but as I've seen a review or two mentioning the same problem, I'm hoping this might be something Bosch fixes).

If you're after a quiet, compact robot lawn mower for a small garden that's a breeze to set up, though, I think the Bosch VISIMOW18V-100 Robot Lawn Mower is worth every penny.

I write about gardens for a living. My husband is a professional gardener. You’d be forgiven for thinking we have a neat, striped, barefoot-friendly lawn; unfortunately, it’s actually something of a busman’s holiday out there, which is why we’ve finally decided enough is enough.

Yes, I confess that our lawn has always been… aspirational at best. A patch of ground that, every year, we try to coax into something resembling a proper garden feature using the very best lawn care tips, only for it to quietly revert to what it clearly wants to be: the same Swamp of Sadness that swallowed poor Artax in The Neverending Story.

We live on clay-heavy soil, which means the water lingers. Add to that a rescue mongrel who is mostly greyhound – all speed, legs, and chaotic energy – and his favourite activity is sprinting, at full tilt, from the back door to the far end of the garden and back again. Over the winter, without fail, he carves out the same route over and over until the grass simply gives up, no matter what lawn care calendar we subject it to. And there’s only so much overseeding we can afford.

Bye bye lawn, hello borders!

For years, the goal has been to “sort out the lawn”. Reseed it, repair it, and try again, as if persistence alone might eventually override soil type, weather patterns, and one very enthusiastic dog.

It makes sense, then, that my husband (who has worked on more than a few RHS show gardens, so I trust him implicitly) has had enough of trying to fix something that clearly doesn’t want to be fixed. His controversial solution? Expand the garden borders and get rid of most of the lawn.

Yes, instead of forcing grass to grow where it doesn’t want to, we’re expanding the beds, reshaping the space, and carving out a winding path that leads you through the garden rather than leaving you standing at the edge of it.

Part of this is, admittedly, tactical; we hope it might slow the dog down, or at least interrupt his usual racetrack. But it also marks a shift in how we think the garden should work.

We’ve already started planning the planting, which is where things get interesting. The garden is split into two very distinct personalities – one side is deep shade for most of the day, while the other sits in full sun all summer, unapologetically so.

Since we talked about this plan, the sunny side has, somewhat unexpectedly, become a vegetable patch. My husband has filled it with peas, raspberries, blackberries, strawberries, broad beans, and lettuces (mostly when I wasn't paying attention), and we now have the kind of space you can wander through and pick things from, rather than just look at.

The rest of the garden? Well, that's where we’re planning on leaning fully into something softer, wilder, and far more wildlife-friendly.

Our dream planting scheme:

We’re talking pollinator plants, layered borders, and interest that carries through all four seasons rather than peaking briefly in summer and disappearing again. Dogwoods for winter colour, star jasmine for scent and structure, an ivy-covered tree stump we're leaving well alone (the toads seem to love it), and plants that flower at different times, overlap, and create that slightly overgrown, slightly magical feeling that I keep coming back to.

If I’m honest, what I want is something that feels a bit like The Secret Garden – not the neglected version, but the moment it comes back to life. The kind that looks suitably whimsical, but also supports pollinators, birds, and whatever else decides to move in once we stop trying to keep everything so controlled.

It won’t happen overnight, and we’re under no illusion about that (we have a one-year-old and a four-year-old, as well as the aforementioned dog that thinks he's Usain Bolt; our lives are chaotic and busy). There will be trial and error, plants that don’t quite work, patches that need rethinking... and we're trying to do it without spending a fortune, too. Easier said than done, as anyone who has ever walked through a garden centre will agree.

FAQs

For the first time in a long time, I’m not dreading what the garden will look like by the end of winter. Because if expanding our borders into the lawn works – if we get even halfway there – we won’t just have solved the mud problem. We’ll have created something that feels alive.

And if it doesn't? Hey, anything has to be a better use of the space than a lawn that never really stood a chance.

Compacted lawns are more common than you’d think, and sadly, they can cause a host of other problems for your grass. Luckily, there are a few tell-tale signs that your lawn is compacted.

If a lawn is compacted, it means the soil beneath your grass is packed so closely together that there’s very little room for air and water to penetrate and move freely amongst the grass roots. It’s usually why gardeners find themselves looking for ways to improve lawn drainage.

Here’s how to tell if your lawn is compacted – because even the most universal lawn care tips will fall short if your garden meets the criteria.

What you'll need

1. Poor drainage

If you’ve found yourself looking for ways to fix a waterlogged lawn after spells of heavy rain or tackling more puddles than usual, there’s a good chance that the soil beneath your grass is compacted.

‘The most obvious indicator is poor drainage, where puddles or standing water remain on the surface long after it has finished raining,’ says Kate Turner, gardening guru for Miracle-Gro.

There are a few ways to improve drainage in a garden more generally, such as by installing a French drain, but it’s also wise to look at the overall health of your grass…

2. Struggling grass

Yellow, patchy grass can point to a number of issues, from lawn diseases to heat stress. If it's looking worse for wear alongside the other symptoms in this list, though, compaction could be to blame.

‘The easiest way to tell is by looking at how the grass is performing,’ says Guy Jenkins, consumer manager at Johnsons Lawn Seed. ‘If it’s thinning and looking patchy, that’s a clear warning sign.’

Some fast-acting grass seed, like Johnsons Lawn Seed Quick Lawn with Accelerator, from Amazon, is perfect if you’re learning how to overseed your lawn in the wake of a compaction problem.

‘You might also notice that moss is beginning to take over, as moss thrives in the damp, airless conditions created by compacted earth,’ Kate adds.

At that point, it's wise to look at ways to get rid of moss in a lawn. You can actually buy lawn fertilisers that kill moss and weeds, too, like the Miracle-Gro Complete 4 in 1 Lawn Food from Amazon.

3. Hard ground

A more direct way to tell if your lawn is compacted is by testing the ground beneath your grass. That means evaluating how hard it feels underfoot or, more straightforwardly, giving it the fork test.

‘You might notice that the ground feels very hard underfoot, particularly in high-traffic areas, or that it’s difficult to push a fork or garden tool into the soil,’ says Guy.

Kate recommends the fork test as a simple way to confirm compaction, too.

‘If the tines cannot easily penetrate at least five inches into the soil, the lawn is too dense and requires aeration to allow air, nutrients, and water to reach the roots,’ she explains.

If you suspect your lawn is compacted, it’s a good idea to learn how to aerate your lawn. You can use a manual tool like the Crystals Manual Grass Spikes Roller from Amazon, or even buy aerating shoes like these Greenkey Heavy Duty Aerating Shoes from B&Q.

A compacted lawn is an unhealthy one, so it's wise to add aeration to your list of April lawn care tasks.

If your lawn is looking patchy, it’s easy to blame the usual suspects. Too much rain, not enough sun, poor-quality seed, or just plain old bad luck.

But in reality, the biggest reason why your grass isn't growing is often something you can’t see at all. While grass might seem low-maintenance, it’s surprisingly sensitive to what’s happening beneath the surface. Healthy lawns, as any good gardener will tell you, depend on strong roots, and those roots rely on the right balance of air, moisture, and nutrients within the soil.

When that balance is off? Well, even the best lawn care routine can struggle to make a difference. Thankfully, though, once you understand what’s happening underground, it becomes much easier to fix.

The one reason why your grass isn't growing

Look, here's the thing: most lawns that appear to be 'not growing' are actually trying to – they just don’t have what they need to do so. The result is weak, uneven grass that never quite establishes, no matter how much attention you give it.

According to experts, the most common cause of this is soil compaction – a problem that builds up over time and quietly prevents your lawn from reaching its full potential.

'In almost every case where a lawn is looking a little worse for wear, the issue isn’t usually the seed quality, weather or watering; it’s what’s happening below the surface of the soil,' says Peter Chaloner, Managing Director of Cobra Garden Machinery.

'Soil compaction is one of the main causes of grass failing to thrive. This is extremely common in UK gardens due to regular foot traffic, mowing patterns and natural settling over time,' continues Peter.

'When soil becomes compacted, the air pockets that roots rely on are squeezed out. That means less oxygen, poorer water movement and very limited space for roots to expand. Even if seeds germinate successfully, the young grass quickly becomes weak because it simply can’t establish a strong root system.'

So, how do we fix the problem? Learn how to aerate your lawn, of course! 'After a wet winter and especially if the lawn has been walked on a lot, soil becomes dense, which restricts airflow, drainage and root development,' says Morris Hankinson, director of Hopes Grove Nurseries.

'Grass roots need oxygen as much as water, so regular aeration with a garden fork (I rate Spear & Jackson's digging fork, £26 at Amazon), combined with feeding (Garden Lawn Care Guy's Dark Green lawn fertiliser, £13.99 from Amazon is fast-acting and gets great reviews) and over-seeding in spring, will make a dramatic difference and bring tired lawns back to life,' adds Morris.

While a machine like the Vonhaus 2-in-1 Scarifier and Aerator, £119.99 from Amazon can really help and prevent a lot of effort, a garden fork will also do the trick nicely, so be sure to invest in a good one.

Lawn care essentials

FAQs

So, if you're puzzling over the biggest reason your grass isn't growing, don't just reach for more seed or turn up the sprinkler. Instead, start by looking under your feet; you may just find that what’s happening below the surface can make all the difference.

Thanks to the warmer spring days we’ve enjoyed here and there over the past few weeks, many of us have given our lawns their first mow of the year by now. At what height should you cut your grass in April, though?

One of the most important April lawn care tips is this: don't scalp your lawn. At this time of the year, grass is far more vulnerable to stress, and mowing should be a gradual process rather than a severe one.

Luckily, there’s a simple rule that experts recommend to those of us wondering what height we should cut our grass in April: the ‘one-third rule’.

What you'll need

Although April marks the first full month we can cut our grass after winter, that doesn’t mean 'full steam ahead'.

It’s true that the weather, for the most part, is warm enough for mowing in April, but it’s best to start light.

‘For the first cut of the season, set your mower blades slightly higher to avoid stressing the grass,’ says gardening expert Paul Parker from plant and annuals specialists J. Parker's. ‘I always recommend not cutting above one-third of the grass height.’

That one-third rule seems to be the golden rule across the board, judging from the experts I spoke to. Miracle-Gro’s gardening guru, Kate Turner, suggested it, too.

‘You should follow the ‘one-third rule,’ ensuring you never remove more than a third of the grass height in a single session,’ Kate says. ‘For your lawn during the spring, aiming for a consistent length of roughly 2.5cm to 4cm is generally ideal.’

Kate also explained that scalping your lawn in April can stress the grass and result in shallow root systems. Many of the best lawn mowers on the market have adjustable cutting heights, which allow you to cut your grass to the desired length, like the Husqvarna Aspire LC34 P4A, which you can order from Amazon.

You’ll also need to make sure you never mow wet grass – and with April showers in the air, it’s best to keep an eye on the weather forecast.

‘If your garden has areas of heavy shade or faces a lot of foot traffic from children or pets, it is better to leave the grass slightly longer, at around 5cm, to help it stay resilient as the growing season begins,’ Kate adds.

So, avoid cutting more than one-third of your grass off at a time this month. April is also the ideal time to learn how to aerate your lawn (especially if it's compacted!).

We're officially in spring, the blossom is out, and the birds are singing. But if your lawn is looking a little worse for wear, Alan Titchmarsh has some lawn tips to get your lawn in shape in April

Who better to get advice from than one of our favourite gardeners, Alan Titchmarsh? Speaking in a recent video on his YouTube channel, the famous gardener and presenter shared his top jobs to do in the garden in April, and April lawn care tips to banish moss and get it looking lusciously green again were top of his list.

'April is a great time to be in the garden, the sun's warming up the earth and the days are getting longer,' says Alan in the Gardening with Alan Titchmarsh video. Below are Alan's three tasks that will transform your lawn from overgrown and tatty to lush and looking professionally kept.

1. Remove the moss

Alan's first task is to tackle and remove any moss you have in your lawn. 'With the wet winter we've had, your lawn's probably full of moss,' says Alan.

Peter Chaloner, managing director at Cobra agrees, 'After a damp winter, moss often appears in shaded or poorly drained areas. While it might look harmless, moss competes with grass for nutrients, water and sunlight, which can leave your lawn looking thin and patchy.'

Alan's advice is to get a wire tooth rake. 'Pull the moss out, just tear at it. Once it's gone, your grass will get the light and air your grass needs to thrive,' he says.

We like B&Q's steel leaf rake, it's £10 and has an adjustable head so you can move the tines to suit the job. It has good reviews with people saying it's lightweight, durable and comfortable to use.

2. Fix bare patches

The start of spring is prime time to fix bare patches in your lawn 'Winter can leave your lawn with worn or bare spots, particularly in high foot traffic areas. If left untreated, these patches can attract weeds and make the lawn look uneven as the season progresses,' explains Peter.

'If you find bare patches in your lawn, you can replace them with turf. But I prefer to reseed the area as it's much cheaper,' advises Alan.

He recommends digging up the compacted first layer of soil and adding some decent-quality topsoil. Firm it in with your feet to level it. Then gently rake the soil with your fork, and then add some seed. As there are different types of grass seed for different parts of the garden, it's best to opt for one that's known for its quick establishment and durability. We like Amazon's Miracle Grow quick grow lawn seed ryegrass fescue, it's currently £7.88 for 480g.

'Sow the seed quite thickly as the birds are likely to get their share,' says Alan. 'I then tickle over the surface with the fork to mix the seeds with the soil, then water them in.'

3. Neaten lawn edges

The third and final task for this month is to have a good tidy-up of lawn edges.

'Have a look at the lawn edges to see if they need attending to. If you need to create a new crisp edge, take your hosepipe and lay it along the edge of the border as a guide. Then, use a half-moon iron, making sure you follow the line of the hose to create a new edge. Dig out the soil on the other side. And hey presto, you have a new edge and a crisper, more professional look to your lawn,' explains Alan.

Amazon's heavy-duty half-moon lawn edger tool has a carbon steel edging knife, making it ideal for tidying up your lawn's edges, £12.99.

'Crisp, defined edges make a huge difference to a garden’s overall appearance,' says Peter. 'Even a well-maintained lawn can look untidy if edges around flower beds, paths or driveways are overgrown.' Defining your lawn's edges and garden edging can transform a winter-tired garden into one that's ready for the spring season.

Lawn essentials

FAQs

How to get a moss-free lawn?

Alan Titchmarsh likes to get rid of moss in the most natural way possible which is to rake it up in April. Pick a day when the sun has warmed up the soil and methodically work across your lawn so you don't miss any patches.

To keep it moss free you can feed an iron-based product, but improving soil drainage by aerating it will help to prevent recurrence too.

Will grass grow back after removing moss?

It can return, but it's best to give it a helping hand by overseeding it. Always use high-quality grass seed and sprinkle extra on as the birds will love to take their share first! Keep it well watered for at least two weeks once you've seeded.

One last tip from Alan is to make sure you don't cut your grass too short if you're mowing now. 'It's fairly early on in the season and cutting down to an inch is far better than cutting to half an inch. Make sure you take your clippings off, collect them up, that way they won't clog up the grass and allow in the air and the light to allow the grass to grow better.'

I realise that your garden might not be the first thing buyers see when they're looking around your home, but it still plays a huge role in how your home feels overall. In any home I've looked at, I've found that when a garden looks tidy and cared for, it sets a tone, suggesting that the rest of the house has been looked after too.

That's why estate agents say this particularly simple yet effective April lawn tip can actually make your home more attractive to buyers. And it turns out that learning to straighten lawn edges for a manicured lawn and investing in one of the best cordless strimmers can completely transform how your garden looks and make everything else feel that little bit more intentional.

Here's why estate agents say keeping your lawn borders neat is a must-have garden feature that can really help sell your home, and how you can easily tidy them up this spring.

Why do neat lawn edges transform a garden?

CEO of Yopa, Verona Frankish, explains that 'a tidy, healthy lawn is one of the first things buyers notice and it can have a huge influence on that all-important first impression.'

She explains that crisp, defined edges instantly make a garden look more cared for and can make the whole outside space feel smarter and easier to maintain. 'In fact, even a modest garden can look far more appealing if the lawn is neatly cut, free of weeds and clearly separated from flower beds and pathways.'

And estate agent, Luke Saywell, partner at Gascoines, explains that buyers don't just look at the size of your garden, but also notice how a space is maintained.

'Whether you’re a passionate gardener or you’ll never be green-fingered, having an outdoor space is one of the top requirements for homeowners,' explains Luke. 'However, how you present your garden can mean the difference between getting the maximum value for your home or being bartered down.'

And Verona concurs that the key is to keep things simple and well-maintained. 'Buyers are far more likely to be put off by an untidy, overgrown or overly personalised garden than they are impressed by expensive landscaping. A garden that feels neat, practical and easy to look after is far more likely to help a home sell,' she adds.

Ideal Home's content editor, Lauren, even says that neatening up her garden was well worth the effort, as it really did add value to her house when she sold it recently.

And both estate agents agree that straightening up your lawn borders is an easy fix you can do quickly, and gives the impression of a well-looked-after outdoor space, even if there's the odd weed or two popping up in your borders. You might say it's the garden equivalent of fluffing cushions before guests arrive.

So, this is what you'll need to get those clean lines around your lawn.

Neat lawn edge essentials

How to get neat and tidy lawn edges

April is an ideal time to neaten up your edges because the grass is softer and grass is actively growing, making it easier to reshape edges cleanly.

'Trimming lawn edges with a half-moon edging iron (like Hardy's edging tool, £14.99 from Amazon) or flat-bladed spade makes a surprising difference to the lawn’s looks and reduces the busy spring workload,' suggests Guy Barter, RHS Chief Horticulturist.

You can then run a strimmer along the border you've created with a good strimmer like Ryobi cordless grass trimmer. £73.99 at Amazon, which we rated our favourite, to sharpen the look and tidy up any stray blades. Then all you have to do is maintain it with a quick trim with a pair of edging shears like these razor-sharp Spear & Jackson edging shears, £20 at Amazon.

So there you are, if you do one thing to your garden this April, make it sharpening your lawn edges, whether you're selling or not. It's a quick job that makes everything look instantly neater and more cared for. It's a small detail, but it's exactly the kind of feature that helps make your home feel more attractive to buyers and guests alike.

At the same time, though, regular maintenance and keeping a tidy garden are still very much advised. 'Sellers should focus on the basics, mowing the lawn regularly, treating any patchy or yellow areas, removing weeds from borders and pathways, and trimming back overgrown hedges or shrubs. Fresh mulch, colourful spring flowers in pots, and a clean patio or seating area can also help buyers picture themselves enjoying the space,' adds Verona.

If you’re thinking about making the switch to a robot lawn mower, it can be difficult to know where to start. Leading garden machinery brands are releasing more models than ever, so it’s tricky to track down the very best robot lawn mowers on the market.

I’ve seen robot mower popularity soar over the past few years, and I was asking all of the usual questions: What are robot lawn mowers? How do they work? Are they actually worth it? I’d learned plenty about robot lawn mowers on press trips last year, but I'd yet to get some hands-on experience in my own garden.

That’s why I set out to test some of the best robot lawn mowers on the market myself. I wasn’t sure they’d compete with the best lawn mowers, but oh boy, was I wrong.

The robot mowers in this guide blew me away. Below, you’ll find my notes on setup, ease of use, performance and design to help you choose the right robot lawn mower for you, your budget and your garden. It’s a very dynamic list – I’ll be updating it as I test more machines over the course of the year (Husqvarna is on the way!) – but these are the robot lawn mowers I rate highest right now.

Quick list

The best robot lawn mowers I've tried and tested

Best premium robot lawn mower

Since Eufy tops our guide of the best robot vacuum cleaners, I had to give its garden counterpart, the Eufy E15 Robot Lawn Mower, a whirl.

It didn’t disappoint – I unboxed a solid machine with ultra-smart tech that provided a neat, intuitive cut. It's certainly on the pricier end, coming in at RRP £1499 (although I’ve seen a few good deals recently!) – but if you’re out to find one of the best robot lawn mowers on the market and want to invest in a premium model, this one stands as my current favourite.

Setup was simple: once I’d connected the garage roof to the base station (with just four screws!) and the charging station to the mains, I downloaded the Eufy app, made an account and connected my mower to the Wi-Fi. Once I’d charged the mower and completed the software update in-app, I simply had to click ‘Start’ to get the mower to map my lawn.

Mapping was great fun. I watched, wide-eyed, as the mower backed itself out of its charging port and onto my grass (it was like watching one of those space robots exploring Mars for the first time). The Eufy E15 uses pure vision FSD technology with high-precision cameras and intelligent AI algorithms for accurate mapping and obstacle avoidance via Wi-Fi or 4G, with no need for boundary wires or an RTK station like older robot mowers. On the app, I could see a map of my lawn taking shape with every square metre the Eufy E15 covered.

Stepping stones splice the right-hand side of my lawn, and I wasn't convinced the mower would manage to map around them – but sure enough, eight tiny blobs appeared in a neat line on the green map on the app. All in all, it took about nine minutes for the Eufy E15 to map my lawn, which was really impressive. What made me really giggle like a child, though, was the fact that it returned to its garage when it was finished.

Once mapped, I started the first mow. The cut itself was smooth and methodical, providing an even finish across the main body of my lawn. The Eufy E15 actually gave my lawn its first cut of the year, which meant it had to tackle long grass – and because the maximum cutting height is 75mm, it tackled my 70mm-long grass with ease.

It didn’t quite reach the very outer edges of my lawn, though (but that’s often the case with regular lawn mowers, too, where you have to go back and straighten your lawn edges manually). It also missed some of the grass around my stepping stones on its first cut – but I then found a handy setting to toggle the edge cutting distance in the app, and the ability to set priority cut areas that the mower must mow, which covered most of the missed areas.

The only downside was the size and weight of the unit, which meant the accompanying garage was large, too. You’ll need a fair amount of space (72.7 x 48 x 45.2 cm) for it – and the box that the Eufy E15 and its accompanying base station came in was huge, too (and heavy enough to be a two-person job). It's also louder than other robot mowers I've tried – though still a lot quieter than regular electric and petrol lawn mowers.

Overall, the Eufy E15 Robot Lawn Mower was staggeringly impressive, with smart driving, responsive object avoidance and an even cut across my lawn. I'd recommend it to anyone looking for a sturdy robot mower that's as fun as it is capable.

Best robot lawn mower for efficiency

I’ve heard nothing but good things about Mammotion – it's celebrated as the manufacturer of some of the best robot lawn mowers on the market – so when I had the chance to test the Mammotion YUKA Mini 2 1000 Robot Lawn Mower, I took it.

What I loved most about the Mammotion YUKA Mini 2 1000 was its efficiency. The mower mapped my lawn a lot faster than the Eufy E15, in just three minutes. The speed at which it charged around my lawn actually made me chuckle – it was definitely on a mission.

The setup was simple. Once I connected the charging station to power, app setup was just as straightforward as it was with the Eufy E15. In fact, I found the Mammotion app to be even more informative, with each step explained thoroughly as you get started.

The cut itself was breathtaking. The Mammotion YUKA Mini 2 1000 effortlessly striped my lawn (albeit with thin stripes, owing to the robot mower’s smaller size), and gave my grass an even finish at the desired cutting height (in this case, 50mm). You have to toggle the cutting height using the dial on the machine itself, rather than in the app, prior to starting the mow.

Like the Eufy E15, the Mammotion YUKA Mini 2 1000 did miss parts of the grass around my stepping stones, as well as the outer perimeter of my lawn – but I’ve yet to try a robot lawn mower that gets it just right (and that’s where a cordless strimmer comes in handy!). There is the option to drive the mower around your lawn manually, though, which you control from your phone (it’s a bit like playing a video game), and I found that better for tackling the grass that lines my garden border. I just had to be careful that I didn’t accidentally drive the mower into my plants!

Obstacle avoidance was also really strong with the Mammotion YUKA Mini 2 1000. The mower uses a 360 LiDAR and Dual-Camera AI Vision (1080P), and every time I stood in front of the machine or threw small objects like my cap in front of it, the mower would stop at a moment’s notice, back up and continue away from the obstacle, which means it’s great for lawns with pets, toys and wildlife.

If you're looking for an efficient robot mower that's brilliant at its job yet perfect for beginners, this is the one to go for.

You can take £50 off the Mammotion YUKA Mini 2 1000 when you buy it from Mower Magic using this link.

Best quiet robot lawn mower

Best quiet robot lawn mower

Now, the Segway Naivmow i208 LiDAR Robot Lawn Mower isn’t actually the quietest robot mower on this list on paper, but bizarrely, it sounded quieter than the Eufy E15 during testing. Granted, the Bosch VISIMOW is still the quietest in this guide – but the Navimow i208 takes the top spot for the quietest mower with the best cutting ability and features.

At 59dB, the Navimow i208 was so whisper-quiet, I forgot it was even on. The tougher grass it mowed made more noise than the machine itself, and it didn’t make noticeable whirring sounds during manoeuvres like the Eufy E15. It also has the widest cutting width (22cm) of all the robot mowers in this guide, which means it covers larger areas of grass at a time.

The cutting-edge technology (pardon the pun) is also something to shout about – LiDAR and onboard vision sensors pave the way for satellite-free navigation and, impressively, enable it to work day or night.

Setup was simple: first, I set up the charging station (you’ll need to fix it to the ground with the included screws), and then installed the Navimow app on my phone. The in-app setup instructions are really easy to understand, which made the whole process a breeze. I had to wait for the software to update, and then it was onto mapping.

You can either manually map your lawn (recommended for unclear or uneven lawn edges) or select auto-mapping, which I did, given my lawn is relatively flat and clearly defined. What’s different about Navimow’s auto-mapping process, though, is that you have to remotely control the mower to the nearest lawn to get started. That’s because there’s the option to map multiple lawns, or ‘zones’ – but given that I only have one lawn, I simply had to mark the first zone via the app and then initiate auto-mapping.

Mapping was remarkably speedy – the quickest of all the robot mowers I’ve tried – taking just two minutes (!) to map my 529ft2 lawn. It was really intuitive, intelligently skirting the perimeter of my lawn and even the tiny area in front of the shed (which I expected it to miss).

Then, it was time to start mowing. It took 23 minutes for the Navimow i208 to mow my lawn (as you can probably tell from the images above, it was suffering a great deal of post-heatwave dryness and patchiness!), and it did a brilliant job of giving it a clean, thorough cut. It even mowed over some of the weeds in my lawn, and didn’t miss any patches at all (save the outer edges, of course). When it did miss a tiny sliver on the map, it actually went back for it at the end!

Obstacle avoidance also got my seal of approval. AI VisionFence and GeoSketch Precision can detect over 200 obstacles within 1cm of accuracy, and the mower did indeed stop at a moment's notice when small and medium-sized objects were thrown in front of it.

The only thing to watch out for with the Navimow i208 is its weight – at 14.7kg, it’s a few kilos heavier than the other robot mowers in this guide, so I did find it more difficult to lift out of the box and push onto the charging station.

But, for a wider cutting width, impressive power, low noise level and a competitive price tag for a robot mower of its level, features and capabilities, it’s one of the very best robot lawn mowers I’ve tested.

Best budget robot lawn mower

The Bosch VISIMOW is by far the most straightforward, no-nonsense robot lawn mower I’ve tested. It provides an intuitive, even cut, and boasts an easy three-button setup, which makes it the best robot lawn mower for gardeners on a budget or who are completely new to robot mowing.

The mower uses a SmartVision camera with AI SpotMow, which allows it to locate exactly where your grass needs cutting. When I first set the mower off (it was literally a case of putting the battery in the machine and pressing three buttons), I was a little unsure of its random mowing pattern – it didn’t follow a methodical length-to-length approach like the other robot lawn mowers I’ve tested – but that’s exactly how SmartVision works. It travels around a lawn based on what it sees in front of it, monitoring for uncut grass, and it did a fantastic job of cutting my grass to a height of 40mm. It actually gave my lawn one of the neatest finishes I’ve seen with a robot lawn mower.

Stripes aside, of course – the random mowing pattern does mean that it won’t stripe your lawn like the Mammotion YUKA Mini 800, but if you’re willing to forgo the look, the VISIMOW’s thorough cut makes up for it.

It’s also smaller than the other robot lawn mowers I’ve tested, which means it’s easier to store, and it has a convenient handle for carrying, too. Plus, you don’t have to worry about fixing a charging station into the ground, since it's battery powered. The battery sometimes comes as a bundle with the mower itself (or you can buy it separately – the battery powers a range of other power tools, too).

The Bosch VISIMOW doesn’t fall short on cutting heights, either – it covers a 20-60mm range, which is impressive for such a compact robot mower.

Obstacle avoidance wasn’t quite as strong with the VISIMOW – it would sometimes ‘boop’ the objects I placed in front of it last-minute before stopping. It never ran over them, though, so it was still pretty responsive.

The VISIMOW also cut my lawn at a much slower pace than the other robot lawn mowers I’ve tested – it took around an hour in total - but as the mower is suited to small gardens up to 100m² and it’s on the cheaper side, I’d say it’s a fair compromise. It also isn't accompanied by an app like the other robot lawn mowers on this list are, but for some, that takes away some of the fuss.

For those with a small garden looking for a quick, simple setup and an even cut, the Bosch VISIMOW is the best budget robot lawn mower I've tried.

Read my Bosch VISIMOW18V-100 Robot Lawn Mower review for the full details.

How I tested

If you're wondering how we test robot lawn mowers at Ideal Home, the process is a thorough one – we put each machine through its paces, testing performance, ease of use, design and additional features, too.

I've tested each of the robot lawn mowers in this guide in my own 38m² garden, with a focus on the following areas:

• Unboxing: How protective and sustainable the packaging is, and how easy the boxed mower is to transport and unpack.
• Setup: How easy it is to connect the cables (or fit the battery), and how straightforward wi-fi and app connectivity is.
• Mapping: For models that map a lawn prior to mowing, how fast the process is and the accuracy of the final map.
• Performance: The precision of the robot's mowing ability and the final finish of the lawn. Where patches were missed, I finetuned the settings and evaluated the success of the second attempt. I also introduced a number of objects to the mower's path to assess its object avoidance skills.
• Maintenance: How easy it is to clean the robot lawn mowers after use, as well as ongoing maintenance such as software updates.

How robot lawn mowers work

Robot lawn mowers have evolved rapidly over the last five years, with technology shifting toward boundary wire-free installation.

When robot lawn mowers first entered the market, they required a boundary wire, which needed to be dug into the perimeter of the lawn so that the mower stayed within its bounds. That was quite a big deterrent for me and plenty of other gardeners I've spoken to – but in recent years, wireless robot lawn mowers have become mainstream.

For this guide, and for the convenience of you, the reader, I've only tested robot lawn mowers that don't require a boundary wire. Instead, these newer models rely on smart AI-assisted cameras to detect their surroundings and obstacles – sometimes using a random mowing pattern, like the Bosch VISIMOW or, in smarter machines, mapping the lawn via GPS.

It's this map that provides the robot mower with the information it needs to stay within your lawn's boundaries. An accompanying app allows you to view the map, start and schedule mows, toggle cutting settings and even designate specific mowing areas for some models.

The beauty of robot mowers with charging stations is that they work in the background, cutting grass little and often to maintain a neat appearance without you lifting a finger beyond initial setup, cleaning and occasional maintenance. For battery-operated robot mowers, you'll just need to remember to charge the battery.

That's my roundup of the best robot lawn mowers I've tested so far, but I'll be updating this guide as I try out more machines over the coming months. There were a few things I wish I knew before trying robot lawn mowers, so it's been a real learning curve!

Spring is in full swing, and if you want to look out on a lush, healthy lawn before summer arrives, now is the time to start working on it. Luckily, there’s a foolproof set of April lawn care tips you can follow.

April is a really important month in the lawn care calendar: as grass leaves winter dormancy behind and begins actively growing again, the TLC you give it now will pay dividends over the year ahead.

Here’s a list of April lawn care tips to get started with this weekend.

What you'll need

1. Keep mowing light

At this time of year, there's the age-old question of when to cut your grass after winter, but April gives us the green light we’ve been waiting for.

That doesn’t mean you should scalp your lawn, though. Since it’s still early in the growing season, the pioneering April lawn care tip is to mow your grass lightly.

‘When it comes to mowing, the first cut of spring should be gentle,’ says Peter Chaloner, managing director of powered lawn mower manufacturer Cobra Garden. ‘Set your mower to a higher cutting height of around 33–34mm to avoid removing too much of the grass blade, and then gradually lower the blades for future mows.’

Peter says a light trim will save an already fragile lawn unnecessary stress while promoting fresh growth (and, of course, making your garden look tidier).

A lawn mower with adjustable cutting heights, like the Husqvarna Aspire LC34-P4A, available at Amazon (our favourite lawn mower right now!), will give you that extra bit of control over the length of your grass. It's also a good idea to straighten your lawn's edges for an even neater touch.

2. Feed your lawn

It’s also really important to know what to feed your lawn in spring. Fertiliser can make a world of difference to tired, winter-worn grass in April – and you can either buy granular or liquid lawn feed, depending on how quickly your grass needs a boost.

‘After winter, grass is emerging from dormancy and often lacks the nutrients needed to support renewed growth,’ says Cheryl Harper, managing director of Greensleeves Lawn Care. ‘A good spring feed helps thicken the turf, restore a rich green colour and sets the lawn up for a strong growing season ahead.’

Miracle-Gro Evergreen Complete 4-in-1 Lawn Food, which you can buy from Amazon, kills weeds and moss, too.

3. Scarify

Learning how to scarify your lawn in April will rid your grass of thatch and moss, leaving plenty of air circulation and room for light and nutrients to reach the soil.

‘A spring tine rake is suitable for smaller lawns, while a mechanical scarifier is ideal for larger or heavily affected areas,’ says Angharad James from Maxicrop.

‘Timing is important, and this process should be carried out during active grass growth in spring or early autumn to allow for quick recovery.’

I rate the WOLF-Garten Scarifying Roller Rake from Amazon (you can buy the WOLF-Garten lightweight aluminium handle, which fits other WOLF-Garten tools, separately).

4. Sow fresh grass seed

It’s also worth learning how to overseed your lawn if it’s looking sparse or patchy. It’s a brilliant follow-up April lawn care tip if you’ve just scarified your lawn, too.

‘Reseeding any bare patches will keep the lawn looking full and healthy as temperatures rise,’ says B&Q’s head of outdoor, Rory Parkes.

‘Before sowing, apply a top dressing first to give your seeds the best foundation for growth,’ adds Kate Turner, Miracle-Gro’s gardening guru. ‘Once seeded, make sure you keep the area moist until growth has established, and try to avoid stepping on the grass till it’s well established.'

Grass seed like the Westland Gro-Sure Fast-Start Smart Lawn Seed from B&Q germinates well in cold weather, too.

5. Aerate

If you haven’t learned how to aerate your lawn before, there’s a good chance your garden will thank you for it.

Compacted lawns struggle to take in air, water and nutrients, which means aeration is the technique that could hold the key to improving drainage in a lawn.

'Regular aeration in spring and autumn helps keep roots strong and reduces moss-friendly conditions,' says Angharad from Maxicrop.

'Spiking the lawn with a garden fork or hollow tine aerator, especially in high-traffic areas, can significantly improve airflow and drainage. In more severe cases, hollow tine aeration removes small cores of soil, relieving compaction more effectively.'

Angharad also recommends applying a light top dressing of sand or sandy loam after aeration to further enhance soil structure. This Elixir Gardens Lawn Sand from Amazon contains iron and nitrogen for an even bigger boost.

If you’re thinking about starting from scratch, you can learn how to lay turf in spring, too.

Learning how to straighten lawn edges can make a surprising amount of difference to the way your garden looks.

In fact, I’d go as far as saying that trimming lawn edges is one of the most underrated lawn care tips. Most lawn mowers struggle to cover the outer perimeter of a lawn, and even if your grass is otherwise manicured, overgrown edges can make a garden look untidy.

Luckily, the task is quite simple. Here’s how to straighten lawn edges as we race towards summer.

What you'll need

1. Mow your lawn

Before you get started on the edges of your lawn, it’s wise to give its main body a trim.

‘This makes it easier to see the natural line of the edge before you begin trimming,’ says Cheryl Harper, managing director at Greensleeves Lawn Care.

Having one of the current best lawn mowers in the shed makes life easier – especially those with adjustable cutting heights, so you don’t scalp your lawn so early in the season.

Personally, I love the Gtech CLM50 Cordless Lawnmower (it's currently on sale at Amazon), which doesn’t carry the faff of a lead and has a cutting height range of 30mm all the way to 80mm (you can read my review here).

2. Mark it out

This step is optional, but Cheryl says it’s a useful one if you’re shaping a new lawn edge or want to adjust the edges that are already there.

‘For straight edges, a simple string line works well, while a rope or hose can be useful for creating smoother curves,’ she advises.

If your turf is creating an uneven frame around the perimeter of your lawn, it’s also a good idea to use a knife like this Esschert Design Hori Hori Knife with Sheath from Amazon to tidy things up.

‘When edging along paths or hard surfaces, carefully cutting back any overgrown turf with a sharp knife first can help you get a much more precise finish before trimming the grass neatly back to the edge,’ Cheryl explains.

3. Trim the edges

After those quick preparatory steps, you can learn how to straighten lawn edges in full.

‘Trimming edges and refining borders makes a big visual difference while promoting growth, says Peter Chaloner, managing director of Cobra Garden Machinery. ‘For tools, a cordless trimmer can make these tasks faster and easier.’

There are some brilliant cordless strimmers out there with edging functions that can make light work of edging a lawn, like the WORX WG163E 18V (20V MAX) Cordless Grass Trimmer from Amazon, but you can also use manual tools.

‘Using long-handled edging shears will help you create a clean, established line,’ says Cheryl. These Spear & Jackson Razorsharp Edging Shears from Argos are ideal.

You’ll just need to carefully follow the outline of your lawn, and keep on top of the edges throughout the season – especially during the summer months, when growth speeds up.

4. Edge your lawn

It’s another optional step, but you can even put some garden edging ideas into practice and frame your lawn for a neater finish.

‘If you’re looking for a lower-maintenance option, adding a physical border such as metal, plastic or wood edging can help hold the shape and reduce how often trimming is needed,' says Cheryl.

This Panacea Bronze Steel Straight Edge Lawn Edging is £18 per 2.64 metres.

And that's it! With a few preparatory steps and careful trimming, you'll have a polished lawn in no time.

Chafer grubs are about as unpleasant as they sound. Left to their own devices, they can wreak havoc on a lawn – so it’s crucial that you know how to get rid of chafer grubs.

First, though, you’ll need to know how to spot them. Several common lawn diseases in the UK can make grass look just as unhealthy, but there are a few tell-tale signs that chafer grubs are the culprits behind a struggling lawn. They feed on the grass roots, which weakens and even kills the grass.

‘Soon it will be the optimal time to treat chafer grubs,’ says GreenThumb’s technical manager, Alasdair Boyes. ‘If left untreated, these pests can cause significant damage to your lawn.’

Here’s how to spot a chafer grub problem – and the best ways to get rid of them.

What you'll need

How to tell if chafer grubs are damaging your lawn

1. Brown or yellow patches

Before you learn how to get rid of chafer grubs in your lawn, you’ll need to make sure they’re actually the problem.

‘Chafer grub damage becomes quite easy to spot once you know what you’re looking for,’ says Cheryl Harper, managing director at Greensleeves Lawn Care. ‘One of the first signs is patches of grass starting to turn yellow or brown, particularly during the warmer months when the grubs are most active.’

There are several other reasons why a lawn might be turning yellow, though – so it’s best to look at the other signs, too…

2. Spongy underfoot

According to Cheryl, a lawn with a chafer grub problem will often feel soft or spongy underfoot.

‘In more advanced cases, the turf can actually lift away very easily – almost like a loose carpet,’ she explains. ‘This happens because the grubs are feeding on the roots beneath the surface, weakening the grass so it can no longer anchor itself properly.’

You can sometimes even see the chafer grubs underneath the surface of the turf. They have C-shaped white bodies with three pairs of legs by their light brown heads. If you spot longer brown grubs, it’s more likely that leatherjackets are infesting your lawn.

3. Wildlife behaviour

Wildlife can also give chafer grubs away. If you notice more birds pecking at your lawn than usual, there’s a good chance the grubs are to blame.

‘You may also notice increased activity from birds or other wildlife, as they dig into the lawn to feed on the grubs,’ says Cheryl. ‘While this can make the damage look worse, it’s often a helpful clue as to what’s going on beneath the surface.

‘When you see several of these signs together, it’s usually a strong indication that chafer grubs are the cause.’

So, how do you get rid of chafer grubs in a lawn, then?

How to get rid of chafer grubs in a lawn

It isn’t a case of removing the grubs by hand – you’ll often need a full treatment to completely banish the pests. Luckily, that treatment doesn’t have to be chemical.

‘The most effective way to deal with chafer grubs is by using a biological control treatment,’ says Cheryl. ‘This involves applying nematodes, which are microscopic organisms that naturally target the grubs without harming other plants or wildlife.’

You can buy Gardening Naturally Chafer Grub Nematodes from Amazon.

‘Once applied, the nematodes are watered into the lawn where they move through the soil and infect the chafer grubs with a bacteria that stops them feeding and ultimately kills them,’ Cheryl explains. ‘It’s a targeted approach that works with nature, rather than against it.’

Cheryl says timing is really important if you’ll be using nematodes on your lawn, as they need warm soil to survive. July to September is usually the ideal window – the grubs are usually more active towards the surface then, too.

After that, you'll need to follow up with a few more lawn care steps.

'Damaged areas can be cleared and overseeded to encourage new growth, while ongoing care – such as mowing at the right height (around 2.5-4 cm during the growing season, slightly longer in hot or dry conditions) and regular watering – will support a stronger, healthier lawn over time,' says Cheryl.

If you suspect chafer grubs are eating your lawn, it's best to be swift about treatment.

If you're not sure what to do before overseeding a lawn, you're not alone. Plenty of people start googling for answers, especially around this time of year.

Yes, there's something about springtime that always gets us in the mood for... well, for a lusher lawn than the one winter has gifted us. But before you resign yourself to ripping it all up and starting again, there’s a simpler, more cost-effective fix: overseeding your lawn.

Done right, it can breathe new life into your grass, filling in bare spots and restoring that lush, green finish we all want underfoot. Done wrong, though? Toil and trouble, in abundance.

What to do before overseeding a lawn

If you're ready to revive your lawn after winter, it's important that you research what to do before overseeding.

Why? Well, because most people get it wrong. In a rush to reseed their lawn, many gardeners simply scatter grass seed over existing turf and hope for the best.

Sure, it’s quick, and it’s easy… but, more often than not, it leads to disappointing results. Seeds fail to take root, patchiness persists, and all that effort (and money) goes to waste. Eep. So, what are they missing?

The secret to success lies in what you do before the seed goes down. As Peter Chaloner, Managing Director of Cobra Garden Machinery, explains, preparation is everything when it comes to overseeding – and skipping this crucial step is the biggest mistake gardeners make.

'Overseeding is one of the easiest ways to bring a tired lawn back to life, filling in bare patches and boosting both thickness and colour,' says Peter.

'Yet many gardeners make the mistake of scattering seed straight onto the grass without preparing the soil first, which can hinder the results.'

With that in mind, here are his top tips for prepping your lawn for overseeding in spring...

What you'll need

1. Mow

While it’s generally best not to cut your lawn too short early in the season, making an exception for areas you plan to overseed can make all the difference.

'Early in the season, it’s generally best not to mow lawns too short during the first few cuts,' says Peter. 'However, in the specific areas you plan to overseed, trimming the grass slightly shorter can help open up the surface and remove excess growth.'

Getting your lawn mower out before overseeding, he adds, allows the new seed to reach the soil more easily and improves the chances of successful germination.

2. Remove moss, thatch and debris

If your lawn has a spongy feel or looks a little dull and clogged, thatch could be to blame.

'Thatch – the layer of dead grass, moss and organic matter that builds up at the base of a lawn – can act like a barrier between the seed and the soil,' Peter explains. 'If it’s too thick, new grass seed won’t be able to establish properly.'

The solution, he says, is to deal with the moss before overseeding by giving your lawn a thorough rake. Alternatively, for larger areas, use a scarifier (this handy Vonhaus scarifier & aerator, £119.99 at Amazon, is a best seller) to properly lift and remove the build-up.

'Raking or lightly scarifying the lawn helps remove this layer and creates small grooves in the soil where seed can settle,' he says. 'Using a scarifier or a sturdy spring-time rake can make a big difference to how well the new grass grows.'

3. Loosen compacted areas

If your lawn feels hard underfoot or struggles to drain after rain, compacted soil could be the issue. And unfortunately, it’s not a welcoming environment for new grass seed.

'If your lawn has areas that feel hard underfoot, the soil may be compacted,' Peter says. 'This restricts airflow, water movement and root growth, making it harder for new grass to establish.'

Breaking up that compacted ground is key before overseeding. Fortunately, 'lightly aerating the soil with a garden fork or aerator (this aerator, £39.99 at Amazon, that has great reviews) helps open it up, improving drainage and creating better conditions for fresh seed to germinate'.

4. Level and improve the soil if needed

Uneven lawns and bare patches don’t just look untidy – they can also affect how well new grass establishes. Before overseeding, it’s worth taking a little extra time to correct any dips or thin areas.

'Bare or uneven patches can be topped up with a thin layer of good-quality lawn topsoil before sowing seed,' Peter advises. 'This helps create a smooth surface and provides the new grass with the nutrients it needs to establish quickly.'

The key here is not to overdo it and 'bury existing grass – just a light dressing will help create the ideal seedbed'.

FAQs

It might take a little patience to prep your lawn before overseeding, but the payoff is worth it if you want to transform a patchy lawn into a thick, healthy green space.

Skip the prep, and you risk wasting both seed and effort. Get it right, however, and you’ll be well on your way to a greener, fuller lawn in just a few weeks. Just make sure you avoid these lawn care mistakes in spring, and you'll be all set, Woohoo!

It’s no secret that lawn fertilisers can infuse lush, green life into a lawn, but if you’re new to the feeding regime, it can be tricky to know which product to pick up. The granular vs liquid lawn fertiliser dilemma is the one I struggled with the most.

Knowing what to feed a lawn in spring is one thing, but ingredients aren’t the only factor you'll need to consider. Granular lawn fertilisers have different perks to liquid lawn fertilisers, and different application methods, too – so it’s all about finding the most suitable option for your lawn and your own gardening preferences.

To help you decide, I've thrown together a guide to the key differences between granular and liquid lawn fertilisers.

Granular vs liquid lawn fertiliser

When it comes to the granular vs liquid lawn fertiliser debate, it isn’t a case of one working better than the other. Both types will feed your lawn the nutrients it needs to make your grass look greener, but they’re each better suited to slightly different situations.

Here’s a breakdown of each type.

Granular lawn fertilisers: the longer-term solution

If you aren’t in a rush, granular lawn fertilisers are a brilliant way to feed your grass for longer-term results.

‘They provide consistent, longer-lasting feeding and are ideal for maintaining steady growth across larger areas,’ explains Cheryl Harper, managing director of Greensleeves Lawn Care.

Granular lawn fertilisers are sold as, well, granules, and they’re applied exactly as they are. As they break down, they release nutrients into the soil – and you can even buy granular feeds that get rid of moss in a lawn and kill weeds at the same time, like Miracle-Gro Evergreen Complete 4-in-1 Lawn Food from Amazon.

‘This slower release means nutrients are delivered over a longer period of time, helping to support sustained growth and lawn health,’ adds Guy Jenkins, consumer manager at Johnsons Lawn Seed.

For overall health and longer-term benefits, granular lawn fertilisers are a go-to for gardeners looking for lush green grass. You’ll just need to make sure you’re fertilising your lawn at the right time.

Liquid lawn fertilisers, on the other hand, can bag you quicker results…

Liquid lawn fertilisers: for speedy results

There are three key differences in the granular vs liquid lawn fertiliser debate: speed, duration and application.

For rapid results, a liquid lawn fertiliser is usually the recommended choice – especially if you’re trying to revive your lawn after winter, for example. You'll need to use a sprayer to apply the feed, though, like this Spear & Jackson 5 Litre Pump Action Pressure Sprayer from Amazon – but you can buy ready-made solutions with a sprayer attached to make life easier, like Miracle-Gro EverGreen Fast Green Spray & Feed from Amazon.

‘Liquid fertilisers can produce faster visible results and are often used when a lawn needs a more immediate boost or targeted treatment,’ explains Cheryl from Greensleeves Lawn Care.

While granular lawn fertilisers release nutrients into the soil, liquid lawn fertilisers deliver the goodness to the grass blades themselves.

‘Liquid fertilisers are applied in solution and are absorbed quickly through the grass plant, meaning they tend to deliver a fast visual response,’ says Guy from Johnsons Lawn Seed.

That seems like the obvious answer, then – and many gardeners do choose liquid lawn fertilisers over granular feeds for faster results – but the effects have different staying powers.

‘Liquid lawn fertilisers are often used for short-term greening or quick boosts during the growing season, but their effects can be relatively short-lived,’ explains Guy.

That said, keeping up with a consistent liquid lawn feeding programme can maintain the benefits. A granular lawn feed just requires fewer applications, and it's longer-lasting.

So, those are the key differences between granular and liquid lawn fertilisers: speed, duration and application. If you aren’t in a hurry, granular lawn feeds can be an easier, longer-lasting choice that promotes overall lawn health – but if you want to see faster results, liquid lawn fertilisers are the popular option.

Our grass is finally waking up from a rainy winter, bleary-eyed and saturated. If you want to give it a restorative boost and strengthen it for the year ahead, it's worth knowing what to feed your lawn in spring.

Grass benefits from different types of fertiliser at different times of the year – that’s why it’s so important to know what and when to fertilise a lawn. In spring, it’s all about helping it bounce back with renewed vigour and encouraging lush green grass to grow.

As it turns out, there's one key ingredient, among several other bonus nutrients, that can do just that. Here’s what you should be feeding your lawn in spring for lush, green growth.

Keen gardeners and lawn enthusiasts seldom skip fertiliser at this time of the year, because spring is one of the most important times to feed a lawn.

‘After winter, grass is emerging from dormancy and often lacks the nutrients needed to support renewed growth,’ explains Cheryl Harper, managing director of Greensleeves Lawn Care. ‘A good spring feed helps thicken the turf, restore a rich green colour and sets the lawn up for a strong growing season.’

You’ll see ‘feed the lawn’ on most lists of lawn care tips, but it’s not a one-size-fits-all kind of idea. Grass needs different nutrients at different times of the year, and if you’re wondering what to feed your lawn in spring for greener grass, there’s one key feature to look for.

‘A good spring lawn feed will contain a strong dose of nitrogen for a green, thick sward,’ says Jonathan Davis of Lawnsmith.

Elixir Gardens Spring & Summer Granular Lawn Fertiliser, which you can order from Amazon, is ideal if you're hoping to grow greener grass this year. Of course, there's always the choice between granular and liquid lawn fertiliser, depending on how quickly you want to see the results.

A lush, green lawn isn’t the only benefit of feeding your lawn in spring – if you’ll be overseeding your lawn this season, the right fertiliser can support the establishment of new grass, too.

‘We’re entering sowing season, when many gardeners will be growing new lawns or fixing bare patches,’ explains Chris McIlroy of The Grass People. ‘A seaweed-based fertiliser can give your grass a real advantage.’

Chris told me that seaweed is more of a supplement than a standalone fertiliser, but used alongside a standard fertiliser, it can encourage faster seedling establishment and deeper, stronger root systems. You can buy envii SeaFeed Xtra from Amazon.

What else should I feed my lawn in spring?

Nitrogen is the shining star when it comes to feeding a lawn in spring, but there are other nutrients that will benefit your grass at this time of the year, too. If you were looking at ways to revive a dry lawn last summer, for example, you’ll want to make sure potassium is in the mix.

‘Don’t overlook potassium, this can improve moisture control and drought tolerance, supporting your lawn for the warmer months ahead,’ advises Jonathan from Lawnsmith.

Phosphorus is a good all-rounder, too, especially for newly sown grass. If you’re hoping to get rid of moss in your lawn, it’s worth looking for products with iron, too.

‘If you have areas of moss, using a feed with iron can suppress any existing moss or improve conditions for grass to outcompete it,’ explains Jonathan.

In fact, many spring fertilisers are designed to target moss and weeds, like Miracle-Gro Evergreen Complete 4-in-1 Lawn Food, Weed & Moss Control from Amazon – but try to avoid them if you’ve just sown a brand-new lawn.

‘You should avoid any fertilisers with weed killers on brand-new seedbeds as these can hinder lawn development,’ warns Chris from The Grass People.

When should you feed your lawn in spring?

Spring encompasses a wide range of conditions, from the wet, nippy weather of March to the warm late-season days of May. When, then, should we be giving our lawns a spring feed?

‘Applying feed when soil temperatures are consistently around 8-10°C ensures the grass is actively growing and able to utilise the nutrients effectively,’ advises Cheryl from Greensleeves.

There’s similar guidance around when you should start cutting your grass after winter – and actually, the two tasks can coincide with each other.

‘It’s best to apply spring fertiliser once the lawn has had its first light mow of the season, as this shows the grass is actively growing and able to use the nutrients,’ adds Jonathan from Lawnsmith.

Feed your lawn with nitrogen-rich fertilisers you want to grow a lush green lawn this year. Phosphorus, potassium and iron are all useful ingredients, too – and seaweed is a bonus supplement if you'll be sowing new grass.

Spring is finally here, and for gardeners across the UK, it’s the most tempting time of year to dash outside with a mower, rake, and bag of fertiliser. Don't, though, make one of these spring lawn care mistakes in the process.

Yes, after months of winter dormancy, the urge to get that lawn looking pristine and perfect is often at its peak – but early-season impatience can often do more harm than good. In fact, many well-meaning gardeners unknowingly set their lawns up for stress, patchiness, and long-term vulnerability to weeds, pests, and disease simply by rushing their lawn care basics.

Patience is a virtue, of course, but doing your research on the best March lawn care tips is just as important, because it's not just about mowing. Over-fertilising, walking on soggy soil, neglecting soil compaction, and ignoring thatch all quietly undermine a healthy lawn. And even the very smallest mistakes in early spring can ripple throughout the season, leaving lawns looking tired and uneven as the months progress.

Spring lawncare mistakes to avoid at all costs

Patience and technique are key to avoiding any major spring lawncare mistakes, whether that's waiting for firm ground, cutting gradually, and preparing the lawn in measured steps can make all the difference.

With that in mind, then, take care to avoid the following...

1. Don't mow too soon

You'd best believe that whipping the lawnmower out too early is top on our list of spring lawncare mistakes.

'Spring is the season when many gardeners rush to get the lawn mower out after winter, but mowing too quickly can often do more harm than good,' says Morris Hankinson, director of Hopes Grove Nurseries.

'One of the most common mistakes is mowing the grass too short on the first few cuts. After months of cold weather, grass needs time to recover, and cutting it too low can stress the lawn and weaken root systems, making it more vulnerable to weeds, pests, and dry conditions later in the season,' he adds.

Essential March lawncare essentials

2. Don't forget to scarify first

Failing to properly tackle compaction and thatch is next on our list of spring lawncare mistakes.

'After a long winter, lawns can suffer from soil compaction, which restricts airflow and prevents water reaching the roots,' says Peter Chaloner, MD of Cobra Garden Machinery.

'Scarifying helps remove thatch – the layer of dead grass and debris – while aerating creates small holes in the soil to improve drainage and airflow. If a manual rake isn’t enough, a powered scarifier or aerator can make the job far easier and more effective.'

While a rake works well for this, you can also bag a Cobra-SA32Ee Electric-Scarifier And-Aerator-Lawn Raker from Amazon if you don't fancy breaking a sweat over this task.

3. Feed it properly

Feeding and repairing the lawn is the next step, and spring is ideal for applying treatments that both nourish the grass and target weeds.

'Any sparse or worn patches should be re-seeded once soil temperatures rise,' Morris advises. 'Keep the area lightly watered to help new seedlings establish more quickly.'

That being said, he adds that over-fertilising is another frequent spring lawncare mistake, which can lead to rapid but weak growth that is more disease-prone. Never a good combo.

4. And don't forget to water

Last but by no means least on our list of spring lawncare mistakes? Watering. Or, rather, watering unwisely.

'If rainfall is limited, water thoroughly early in the day so moisture reaches the roots before temperatures rise. Avoid watering late in the evening, as damp conditions encourage disease,' advises Peter.

FAQs

And there you have it! By taking a slower, more considered approach to your lawn in spring, you’re giving it the best chance to thrive throughout the year and giving yourself far fewer opportunities to fall foul of any tricky spring lawncare mistakes.

Remember: it’s a combination of patience, timing, and technique that separates a lush, resilient lawn from one that looks tired and patchy by midsummer. And hey, if that means sitting back with a cuppa and ignoring the mower for a few more weeks, we're more than happy to oblige...

Wondering how to lay turf in spring? If a new lawn is on your radar for 2026, turfing is one of the most popular methods.

Of course, if your goal is to fill in the bare patches in your grass, you could learn how to overseed a lawn – but if you’re curating a new garden, or you just want to start afresh, turf can provide quicker results. Once you know when to lay turf (spoiler: spring is a really good time to get started), it’s just a case of learning how to do it.

I’ve pulled together a guide on how to lay turf in spring, with tips from the experts, to help you establish a healthy new lawn. Below, you’ll find pointers on everything from preparing the soil to giving your turf its first mow. Turf is best laid the same day it’s delivered, though, so make sure you’ve given yourself time to complete the first couple of steps before it arrives on your doorstep.

What you'll need

1. Prepare the soil

Pre-turf, you’ll likely be looking at a blank canvas of bare soil (unless you’re wondering if you can lay turf on top of grass, which is a trickier matter!). It’s the very foundation of your new lawn – and you’ll need to make sure it’s in tip-top condition before you learn how to lay turf in spring.

‘If you are laying turf, ensure the soil is well prepared beforehand,’ advises Guy Jenkins, consumer manager at Johnsons Lawn Seed. ‘Remove weeds and stones, improve the soil structure if necessary, and rake the surface to create a level, lightly firm seedbed.’

It’s a brilliant chance to learn how to improve drainage in your lawn if necessary, too, because compacted soil can make it harder for grass roots to establish. An aerating tool like the Crystals Manual Grass Spikes Roller from Amazon can be a game-changer.

2. Apply a pre-turf fertiliser

Once you’ve prepared the soil, it’s wise to apply a pre-turf fertiliser like B&Q’s Verve Pre-Turf and Lawn Seed Fertiliser four to five days before laying the turf. It’ll help root development and promote strong growth and establishment. Then, you’ll need to arrange the purchase or delivery of your turf for the right day.

‘Apply a pre-turf starter fertiliser before laying and always place turf within 24 hours of delivery to prevent it drying out,’ advises Jonathan Davis of Lawnsmith.

‘Turf doesn’t store well once harvested, so try to lay it the same day and keep it shaded and moist if the weather is warm.’

3. Lay the turf

So, you’ve prepared your soil, applied a pre-turf fertiliser, and your turf has arrived. Now, it’s time to learn how to lay your turf.

‘Start by forming a straight border with your first row, stagger each row like bricks, and use scaffold boards as walkways to improve soil contact,’ advises Jonathan.

Once you’ve laid your turf, it’s important to water it in thoroughly, enough that the water soaks through to the soil beneath the turf. Speaking of watering…

4. Water consistently

That first water is crucial, but so is the schedule that follows over the first couple of weeks.

‘After laying, consistent watering is crucial – five to 10 minutes per spot daily for the first fortnight, then gradually reduce over the following weeks,’ advises Chris McIlroy of The Grass People.

It’s also best to avoid walking on watered grass, just as you'd steer clear of cutting wet grass, especially on a brand-new lawn.

5. Apply topsoil if needed

Some gardeners choose to apply topsoil (which is different from compost) to the gaps in their new turf to even things out a little.

‘If you notice small gaps after the turf settles, brush some sterilised top soil or loam to stop the edges drying out,’ says Jonathan from Lawnsmith. ‘Dry edges can create bumps and unevenness as time goes on.’

Topsoil can also be used to level a lawn. You can order Hardys Sandy Loam Lawn Dressing from Amazon.

6. Give your turf its first mow

Luckily, there are a few ways to tell if your turf is ready to be mown, but there’s a general guideline that The Grass People’s Chris recommends as a starting point.

‘Mow for the first time after 10 to 14 days if needed, keeping the blades high and ensuring conditions are dry to avoid disturbing young roots,’ he says.

You’ll need to resist following several of the most popular March lawn care tips if you’re looking after new turf, though.

‘Avoid liquid fertilisers, ferrous sulphate, aerating or scarifying in the first year,’ Chris warns. ‘You should wait about three months before starting a normal feeding programme.’

And that’s how you lay turf in spring! Chris says we can generally start using a freshly turfed lawn around four weeks after it’s been laid when properly cared for, which means it'll be ready to go before summer arrives.

Not sure when to mow your grass if you have bulbs in your lawn? It’s worth finding out if you want to avoid cutting the blooms short this season.

If you’re wondering when to start cutting your grass after winter, you wouldn’t be the only one – it’s a hot topic of conversation between gardeners up and down the country this month. If you’ve got bulbs like daffodils in your lawn, though, the guidelines are slightly different – and you’ll likely have to wait a bit longer to give your grass its first cut of the year, or at least take extra caution, if you want your spring flowers to flower to their fullest potential.

I asked the experts when to mow your grass if you have bulbs in your lawn to make sure you don't ruin this (and next!) spring's displays.

What you'll need

The first mow of the year is one of the most important dates in a gardener’s lawn care calendar – trim too soon, and you might cause unnecessary damage.

If you’ve got spring bulbs in your lawn, though, there’s even more to think about. Cutting away freshly grown daffodil, tulip or hyacinth foliage will not only spoil this year’s displays, but also weaken the bulbs and impact next year’s flowers.

So, when should you mow your grass if you have bulbs in your lawn, then?

‘Wait until most of the flowers have finished blooming and the petals have dropped,’ advises Cheryl Harper, managing director of Greensleeves Lawn Care. ‘This allows the bulb foliage to continue photosynthesising and storing energy for next year’s display.’

That might mean you’ll have to put up with long grass for a little while longer (although I’m not mowing my overgrown lawn yet either, just to be on the safe side) – but it’ll mean you get to enjoy the flowers for longer and preserve the bulbs’ strength for next spring.

It’s also wise to look out for signs that the foliage is ready to be cut back, just like you would when daffodils have finished flowering.

‘If you want to enjoy the flowers year after year, you should wait until after the flowers have withered and the foliage has turned yellow before cutting your grass,’ agrees Jonathan Davis, grass expert at Lawnsmith. ‘Doing it any sooner could damage them and prevent the leaves from absorbing the energy they need to come back next year.’

Or, of course, there’s nothing stopping you from mowing around the bulbs, or even using a cordless strimmer like the Ryobi OLT1832 ONE+ Cordless Grass Trimmer from Amazon for more precision.

‘As great as bulbs can look in a lawn, I’d advise keeping them to edges if you want to maintain a short lawn over spring and summer,’ says Chris McIlroy, lawn expert at The Grass People. 'Alternatively, you can trim around the bulbs when you neaten up your lawn.'

So, if you must mow your grass later this month, make sure you avoid the foliage from the bulbs in your lawn. Or, wait until the flowers and foliage have died back before you give the whole area a trim.

The most common lawn diseases in the UK can spell disaster for our grass – but if you know how to spot them and step in before they spread, the damage is usually reversible.

As a gardener, one of the worst feelings is spending lots of time curating your favourite lawn ideas only to have them ruined by a mysterious fungal disease.

Thankfully, many of the most common lawn diseases in the UK are easy to identify, often carrying hallmark symptoms, and they can be corrected with the right know-how. These are the lawn diseases you’re most likely to encounter here in the UK – and how to spot and treat them before it’s too late.

What you'll need

1. Red thread

Red thread is among the most common lawn diseases in the UK. It usually manifests as pale or straw-coloured grass, and even though it doesn't exactly look red, it can appear faintly pink.

'Red thread is a very common fungal disease, particularly in spring, when the weather tends to be mild and damp,' says Jonathan Davis, grass expert at Lawnsmith.

Weather changes can invite this disease into your garden, but it’s more likely to crop up if your lawn is already in poor condition. You’ll need to gather all the lawn care tips you can if you want your grass to overcome the disease – and even though we’re out of the active season for red thread, bolstering your lawn’s natural defences now will keep the fungus at bay later in the year.

'It's usually caused by low nitrogen levels in the soil, so applying a nitrogen-rich fertiliser can usually cure the disease,' Jonathan explains. 'Regular mowing in spring and good lawn maintenance can keep it at bay. Very rarely does red thread cause irreversible damage. Once the lawn’s nutrient levels are corrected, the grass typically recovers well.'

Miracle-Gro Lawn Builder, which you can buy from Amazon, is a brilliant high-nitrogen lawn fertiliser that can be used from March.

2. Leaf spot

Leaf spot doesn’t just affect regular plants in the garden – it’s a fungal disease that can target grass, too, often identified by small, dark spots on individual blades. The spots are usually brown, black or purple, and Cheryl says they can join together over time, causing thinning or even dead patches of grass.

Overwatering is one of the worst lawn care mistakes you can make for several reasons, and leaf spot is one of them.

‘It tends to thrive in warm, humid conditions and is more likely in lawns that are overwatered, cut too short or lack good airflow,’ explains Cheryl Harper, managing director of Greensleeves Lawn Care.

Like red thread, leaf spot is best treated by improving general lawn care first.

‘Raising the mowing height to 25-35mm or higher, avoiding late-day watering and improving air circulation can make a significant difference,’ says Cheryl.

‘In more persistent or advanced cases, professional fungicide treatment may be recommended, followed by overseeding to restore damaged areas.’

Thankfully, learning how to overseed a lawn is really straightforward, and packs like the new Westland PureGreen Lawn seed, which you can buy from Amazon, can give a lawn a total refresh.

3. Snow mould

Snow mould is about as unpleasant as it sounds - if you spot white fungus on your grass, it's likely that Fusarium is the culprit.

'Fusarium, also known as snow mould, is another common issue, especially in autumn and winter, as it thrives in cool, wet conditions,' says Jonathan. 'It appears in small circular patches of yellow, brown or orange grass, and you might see white cottonwool-looking fungal growth.

The best treatment involves improving lawn drainage, because according to Jonathan, 'Poorly drained, thatchy lawns with limited air circulation are breeding grounds for this fungus.'

It’s worth learning how to aerate your lawn if it’s compacted, and reducing thatch by learning how to scarify your lawn. The 2-in-1 Vonhaus scarifier and aerator from Amazon takes a lot of the effort out of both tasks.

'Severely damaged areas may need to be re-seeded in spring once growing conditions improve,' Jonathan adds.

4. Lawn rust

Lawn rust is another common lawn disease in the UK, and as you’d expect, it causes yellow-looking grass. It’s often down to a rust-coloured powder that you might find on shoes, pets or your lawnmower.

‘It commonly develops when grass growth slows due to nutrient deficiency, low light or water stress, particularly when damp conditions follow,’ explains Cheryl. ‘While it may seem like a cosmetic issue at first, rust weakens the grass and leaves it more susceptible to further problems.’

You guessed it – the best first step is to improve your grass's overall health.

‘Applying a nitrogen-rich fertiliser, improving light levels where possible and maintaining regular mowing will usually allow the lawn to grow out of the infection,’ says Cheryl. ‘Avoid cutting the grass too short during this time, as a slightly higher mowing height supports recovery and reduces further stress.’

There’s always the question of whether or not you should leave grass clippings on your lawn, but Cheryl says it’s wise to remove them when rust is active to limit the spread of spores.

5. Damping off

Damping off is the most common lawn disease that affects freshly-sown grass - so if you've just overseeded or reseeded your lawn, it could be at higher risk. It's a fungal disease that often affects other plant seedlings, too (it's usually a cause of seeds not germinating), and it often happens when conditions are cool and damp, or the soil around the seeds is too wet.

'The disease occurs in two forms: pre-emergence damping off, where seeds rot in the soil and fail to germinate, and post-emergence damping off, where seedlings sprout but then collapse at the base, often appearing water-soaked and sometimes covered with a white fungal growth,' explains Chris McIlroy, lawn expert at The Grass People.

Chris says there's no cure once damping off takes hold of grass seedlings, so prevention is crucial.

'Avoid overseeding too densely, ensure good drainage, reduce excessive watering and improve airflow,' he advises.

6. Dollar spot

Dollar spot sounds like something you'd find overseas, but it’s very much an active lawn disease in the UK. If you spot small, coin-sized spots on your lawn (usually the colour of straw), there’s a good chance the fungus has infiltrated your grass. The spots will grow larger if they aren’t treated.

‘It is caused by the fungus Sclerotinia homoeocarpa and most often develops in lawns that are undernourished, particularly those lacking nitrogen,’ says Cheryl. ‘Poor drainage, excessive thatch and prolonged moisture sitting on the grass can all increase the risk.’

Above all else, you’ll need to address potential nitrogen deficiencies with a fertiliser like Miracle-Gro Lawn Builder from Amazon. It’s also important to work out the best time to water your garden – and when dollar spot is in the picture, Cheryl says morning watering helps reduce surface moisture overnight. Aeration and scarification are also worthy steps, and again, you should avoid scalping your lawn.

‘In more severe cases, targeted professional fungicide treatment may be required, followed by overseeding to restore a healthy, even finish,’ Cheryl adds.

7. Fairy rings

When I first heard about fairy rings, I thought they sounded like whimsical, fun things to have in the garden – but they're actually caused by a soil-borne fungus that feeds on organic matter on the lawn's surface, according to Jonathan.

'They often appear as dark green rings, arcs of dead grass covered in moss, or circles of mushrooms,' he explains. 'They are a common sight in late spring right through to autumn, thanks to warm, moist conditions, but can exist all year round.

It's tricky to get rid of fairy rings because the fungus lives deep in the soil, but Jonathan says improving soil aeration, reducing thatch and watering consistently can keep things at bay.

'Some severe cases might need an intensive soil treatment to break up the fungal growth,' Jonathan adds.

Use this guide to the most common lawn diseases in the UK to keep on top of any creeping fungal infections.

There are also a few lawn pests to watch out for, like chafer grubs.

Besides the near-constant rain we’ve had so far, the weather has been relatively mild this year. That doesn’t mean you should mow your lawn yet, though – and I know many of us are tempted.

My lawn is starting to border on jungle-like right now, and the grass actually seems longer than it has in past winters. Despite all of that, it isn’t time to start cutting your grass – and even I’m going to be holding off for a little while longer.

To find out why our grass is longer than usual for this time of the year, and when we should be thinking about getting the mower out in 2026, I spoke to the experts.

At this stage in the year, our lawn care calendars usually look quite empty – it’s still winter, and typically, that means grass growth has slowed right down.

My grass looks a lot longer than it usually would right now, though – and we’re only about halfway through February. According to The Grass People’s lawn expert, Chris McIlroy, it’s because of the milder, wetter weather patterns we’ve seen over the past month or so.

‘This year, the soil stayed warm, moisture levels stayed high, and lawns simply kept ticking over – slowly, but steadily,’ he explains. ‘That’s why many people are finding longer, patchier growth than they’d expect at this time of year.’

Chris says we shouldn’t confuse long grass with strong grass, though.

‘We’re still experiencing frost and cold snaps, which can make grass more vulnerable than it appears,’ he warns.

It’s common knowledge that we should never cut wet grass, but even if the weather dries up, it’s still too early to mow our lawns in February. You can learn how to aerate your lawn soon, though, and a machine like the Vonhaus 2-in-1 Scarifier and Aerator from Amazon is a brilliant multi-tasker.

‘Shorter lawns have less protection against frost, so cutting too soon can set them back,’ says Chris.

So when can we start mowing our lawns, then?

‘According to the Royal Horticultural Society, grass won’t grow in temperatures less than 7°C, which means that in line with Met Office data, the date we expect to mow for the first time in 2026 is March 13th,’ says Nick Ee, product training manager at BLACK+DECKER.

‘However, I’d urge everyone to keep checking their local forecasts beforehand, as we know how quickly the weather can change. It’s also important to consider other elements such as rain, frost and wind as these conditions will have an impact on the task at hand, and Britain is no stranger to an ice blast or two in spring.’

Mowing too early can leave your lawn vulnerable to late frost damage – and it’s one of the worst winter lawn care mistakes you can make.

You can feed your lawn now, though, as long as you choose a winter fertiliser like the Elixir Gardens Complete Winter Lawn Fertiliser from Amazon. It'll give it a nice pre-spring boost before the warmer weather arrives.

Gear up for spring lawn care

If you take just one lawn care tip from me this month, it's to keep the mower in the shed for a little while longer. Mowing your lawn in February can give it bad start for the year ahead – so focus on other February garden jobs, if your green thumbs are twitching!

While the winter months inevitably mean we spend less time enjoying our gardens, this doesn't mean there isn’t still work to be done. In fact, garden experts have revealed the five lawn care tasks you need to complete in November.

For a lush lawn in summer, you must carry out the vital maintenance in winter, and on your lawn care calendar to ensure it comes back greener and luscious every year. Remember, your grass is facing the brunt of all the bad weather, which is why autumn lawn care is equally important as spring and summer gardening.

Because of this, I asked gardening experts what essential lawn care tasks we need to complete this month to help our lawns bounce back in spring - and these are the five things they said.

1. Aerate your lawn

First on the list is to aerate your lawn. This is the practice of creating small holes in your lawn (using a lawn spike aerator, £26.99 at Amazon) to help improve drainage and allow more oxygen and nutrients to reach the roots of your grass, helping you grow a strong and healthy lawn.

‘Ideally, aerate your lawn on a cool and cloudy day, ideally a day or so after it has rained, which ensures the soil is damp, which makes the process easier. Try to work either early in the morning when the ground is moist and has time to recover before nightfall. Or late in the afternoon when temperatures are cooling and your lawn can recover overnight,’ says Lucie Bradley, garden and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation.

2. Clear debris

‘While this may feel like an endless task, keeping on top of it will keep lawns free of the smothering effects of decomposing material. However, instead of completely removing the leaves, I recommend raking them from your lawn and paved areas onto your flower beds,' says Helena Jones, a gardening expert and Head of Commercial at Hedges Direct.

'The fallen foliage is actually a great heat insulator and will protect the soil from becoming frozen in future cold snaps this winter. Wildlife also love leaf bundles as they can use them for nesting sites.'

To make this job a little easier, we recommend using a leaf vacuum to help suck up excess leaves. The VonHaus 3-in-1 Leaf Blower, Vacuum and Mulcher, £44.99 at Amazon, is excellent and sucks up excess leaves and turns them into beneficial mulch.

3. Complete a final cut

This is more of a task not to do, rather than a task to complete, but November is the last time you should think about mowing your lawn before winter.

‘Depending on the weather and the temperature in your area, it’s probably time to mow your lawn for the last time this year. You only need to cut your lawn if it has been continuing to grow, and with exceptionally mild weather being experienced in early November, it’s likely that you will need to give it another cut,’ says Lucie.

‘It’s important on this last cut of the year that you adjust the cutting height on your mower so your grass will be left longer, around 5cm, which will help to insulate the roots through the colder temperatures of winter. The longer blades of grass will help with photosynthesis even during the shorter days, helping to keep it healthy and less vulnerable to disease.’

4. Lay turf

‘November can be a great time to lay turf – the wet weather tends to take care of irrigation, and it will have a few months to settle in before the arrival of any hot, dry weather. Simply avoid doing this on very wet or frosty days,’ says Helena.

When considering when to lay turf, the main rule is to avoid doing it on really cold days, which often means the winter months are out of the question. As November can be quite mild, it’s still possible to lay fresh turf, with enough time to nurture it before spring.

5. Give your lawn an autumn feed

‘A final feed before winter will strengthen your lawn after a busy summer of growing and use, so that it will be able to withstand the colder temperatures, rain, frost and snow which may arrive. It also gives your lawn a chance to store up the nutrients it will need so that it can start growing as soon as Spring arrives’ says Lucie.

‘The best time to give your lawn its last feed before winter is whilst it is still green, but it is only growing slowly, allowing the roots to absorb the nutrients before they become dormant. People often wait until they have had their first frost before they carry out this last feed. Or, you could monitor the temperature, and once you see daytime temperatures are consistently below 10 degrees Celsius, then you know the growth of your grass will have slowed down or is just about to stop.’

You want to give the feed while the roots of the grass are still active so that it can absorb the nutrients. These nutrients will help protect your grass from bad weather as well as any fungal diseases. For this, it’s worth investing in a high-quality grass feed such as Miracle-Gro’s EverGreen Autumn Lawn Care Spreader, £15.99 at Amazon.

What you need

Have you ticked off any of these tasks yet?

Wondering when to cut new grass from seed? If you’ve overseeded or reseeded your lawn this year, mowing at the right time is key to keeping it in tip-top condition.

Knowing when to mow new turf is one thing, but what about a lawn that’s just grown from freshly sown grass seed? Well, at this time of year, especially, timing is crucial – too early, and you’ll damage the young, tender shoots, but too late, and your lawn will find itself at the mercy of the first frosts.

To find out when to cut new grass that’s grown from seed, I gathered the wisdom of a few trusty lawn experts.

We’re halfway through October already, and before we know it, it’ll be time to stop cutting our grass for the winter.

Not yet, though – and if you sowed grass seed earlier in the autumn, there’s still a little time for the new grass to establish before cutting it for the first time (especially if you used fast-growing grass seed, like Miracle-Gro EverGreen Fast Grass Lawn Seed from Amazon.

‘Your newly-sown lawn should be ready for its first mow around six to eight weeks after you planted your seeds,' says Chris McIlroy, lawn expert at The Grass People. 'Check the temperature, as you want to avoid frost on a young, freshly-cut lawn.’

In fact, mowing during or shortly before frosty weather is one of the worst winter lawn care mistakes you can make.

Besides September and October, April and May are also considered ideal times to overseed a lawn. You’ll just need to wait the six- to eight-week window before you cut the new grass – and if you haven't sown grass seed yet, you might not be able to squeeze in its first cut this year.

'If you've just sown your grass in mid-October, it’s likely you won’t be mowing your new grass at all – not until spring 2026, anyway,' says Chris Cooper, senior product marketing manager from the lawn experts behind Hayter petrol and battery lawn mowers.

I was curious about how long grass should be before it can be mowed for the first time, too.

‘The key thing is to wait until it’s strong enough to handle its first cut,’ says Cheryl Harper, managing director of Greensleeves. ‘As a rule of thumb, you should hold off mowing until the new grass has reached around 7-8cm (about 3 inches) in height. That gives the young shoots time to develop a good root system and gain a bit of strength.’

According to Cheryl, the height of the grass is actually a better indicator than the calendar – so keep an eye on the length of the blades this month, as the wetter, milder weather might speed up growth and shorten the wait time a little.

Just try not to mow too early. ‘This can be tempting, especially as the autumnal weather firmly sets in and you want to mow before it gets too cold, but you need to ensure your grass is well-established to limit damage to the roots and avoid patchy growth,’ explains Chris from The Grass People.

It’s also best to avoid cutting your grass too short (another ultra-common lawn care mistake) during its first mow.

‘When you do take the mower out for the first time, make sure the blades are nice and sharp, and just trim the top third of the grass,’ advises Cheryl. ‘That gentle first cut helps the grass thicken up without putting it under stress.’

A lot of the best lawnmowers on the market have an easily adjustable cutting height mechanism, like the Gtech CLM50 Cordless Lawnmower from Amazon, which I tested earlier in the year (and loved!).

So, six to eight weeks from sowing is a good guideline, but make sure new grass from seed is long enough before you cut it for the first time. Get your hands on a good lawn mower to make life easier, or make sure your lawn mower blades are properly sharpened before you get started.

It’s been a long, hot summer and it’s been fabulous getting out into the garden and making the most of the sunshine. But while my plants and flowers have fared pretty well (with a little extra TLC and plenty of watering) sadly my lawn is not looking so good.

Lack of rain has taken its toll with the grass dry and parched at the top of the garden where it gets full sun, and weed-ridden at the bottom where there is more shade. But now the weather is cooler and before winter sets in, I’m determined to get the grass back in shape, so armed with plenty of expert lawn care tips, there are 5 things I’m doing to get my lawn autumn ready.

‘With warm soil, cooler winds and wetter weather, autumn is the the perfect season to both prepare and repair your lawn, giving your grass the TLC it needs to not just recover, but thrive,’ says Kate Turner, gardening guru for Miracle-Gro/Lovethegarden blog. ‘Grass can root and establish itself before winter comes and more frequent rain means less need for manual watering.’

Here's how I'll be sprucing up my grass to get it looking great again ready for next Spring.

1. Raise the mowing height

The hot weather and lack of rain through most of the summer has meant that growth levels really slowed down and my grass didn’t need cutting quite so regularly considering how often you should mow your lawn.

But just a few day’s rain in the last week has seen the grass really perk up, so the lawn mower isn’t being packed away any time soon. Regular mowing until the end of the season when the temperature drops and growth fully slows will help better prepare it for winter.

While I (lazily) tend to leave the mower cutting height the same throughout summer, now is the time I'll be raising it so that the blades are at the highest point. All you need to do is adjust a lever on most mowers or remove spacers on a Flymo like mine to adjust the height. Longer grass helps protect the roots and reduces stress as you walk on your lawn until we reach the point of when to stop cutting grass for winter.

2. Scarify the lawn

While my dry, parched lawn after the hot summer doesn’t look great, I’ve learnt enough not to be too stressed about it. After having building work done a few years back the grass looked awful and I was worried we’d killed it off. But come the next summer it bounced back and was lush and green again, so do bear this in mind if worrying about how to revive a dry lawn.

One thing I know that will help get the grass looking its best is to scarify the lawn. While it might sound a little strange, scarifying can really help when there's been a hot summer and you’re wanting to get the lawn prepped for autumn. How to scarify a lawn simply means removing dead thatch (the brown bits underneath the green grass blades) and the best way to do this is to use a spring tine rake, like the Wolf Garten spring tine rake, £32.99, Amazon.

Gently rake the thatch out of the lawn, working in different directions to ensure it comes out evenly. Don’t be too heavy-handed with it and aim to still leave a small amount of thatch which will help protect the lawn.

3. Aerate to improve drainage

‘Lawns can become compacted and thatch ridden after heavy summer use,’ says Kate Turner. ‘While scarifying helps remove dead material, aerating (which can be done with a garden fork) improves airflow and drainage which is vital for growing roots.’

There are a few different tools you can use when working out how to aerate a lawn, from the Spectrum 2-in-1 Petrol Lawn Scarifier Aerator, £329.95, B&Q, a simple roller-style McGregor lawn aerator, £30, Argos, to these fun-looking Lawn Aerator Shoes, £24.99, Amazon, which look hilarious but I’m told do actually work.

On my small lawn, I use a fork, working from top to bottom down the length of the garden and then across widthways, pushing the fork into the grass to make holes (around 12cm deep). It can be hard going, but aerating the grass allows water, air and nutrients to penetrate deeper into the soil as a stored resource for over winter so autumn is prime time if thinking about when should you aerate your lawn.

4. Apply an autumn feed

Autumn is the key time to feed a lawn, but when it comes to what lawn fertiliser is best to use, the expert advice is to always use one specifically formulated for autumn application. Autumn lawn feeds are rich in potassium and phosphates that encourage root growth through winter, rather than leafy growth.

Calculate your lawn size and the amount of feed needed before applying. A liquid feed can be applied using a watering can. Or for a dry formula like the Miracle-Gro Evergreen Autumn Lawn Care, £14.94, Amazon, that I'm using, a feed spreader comes in really handy. I picked one up secondhand or try one like the Einhell universal spreader, £29.99, Screwfix.

Adjust the flow rate before you start and fill with your chosen feed. Then simply open the dispensing hole to start and walk up and down the grass at a slow, steady pace so that the feed flows out evenly.

You'll need to close the dispensing hole at the end of each length while you turn the spreader. To make it easier, it's best to apply a header strip all around the perimeter of the lawn to act as a buffer and give you space to turn.

5. Re-seed and repair

One of the big problems with my lawn is that there are lots of bald patches of grass. Mine are mostly at the edges, next to the flower beds, where the bigger plants tend to shade out the grass, but it can also happen in heavy traffic areas or be caused by heat damage or pets.

Overseeding involves spreading grass seed over an existing lawn and is perfect for repairing damaged areas and bare patches, like mine, as you don’t need to seed the entire lawn as with sowing new grass. Late summer or spring is the perfect time for when to overseed a lawn, depending on the time of year.

Wait for a day when the grass is slightly damp (after rain) and not too windy (or seed can get blown away). I'm using Miracle-Gro Patch Magic Lawn Repair, £11.50, B&Q, which contains coir and acts like a super-absorbent topsoil to aid growing. Simply loosen the soil with a rake first, soak with water and sprinkle the seed on, it should show signs of sprouting within days.

‘Autumn’s combination of warm soil and regular rain makes it the ideal time to sow new grass seed, as these seeds will germinate faster now than any other time of year,’ says Kate Turner. ‘My top tip is to sow when the soil is warm, if you can’t sit on your lawn with a bare bum, then don’t sow it!’

Will you be getting your lawn prepped for autumn? Are there any great lawn prep tips you swear by? Let us know below!

I've been hearing one lawn care question above the rest this month: Can I overseed my lawn in August?

Well, if you’re wondering when to overseed a lawn, your timing is on point. August is one of the best months to overseed your lawn, according to experts – so it’s the perfect time to schedule the task into your lawn care calendar.

There’s a thing or two you’ll need to know about sowing grass seed this August, though, thanks to all the hot weather we've been enjoying.

So, can you put grass seed down in August? If you’re keen to learn how to overseed your lawn, it’s a brilliant time to get started.

‘August is a good month for sowing, as the higher temperatures mean the soil is also nice and warm,’ says Chris McIlroy, lawn expert at The Grass People. ‘This is great news for germination, as it can help speed up the process.’

Overseeding your lawn in August will also prepare it well for the colder months ahead.

‘New grass has several weeks to grow and develop roots before winter sets in,’ says Chris. ‘That makes it stronger, more resilient, and better able to bounce back in spring.’

You can even buy fast-growing grass seed, like Westland Gro-Sure Fast Acting Lawn Seed, from £8.89 for 10m² at Amazon.

Usually, regular rainfall would be another benefit of overseeding a lawn in August – but in the wake of recent heatwaves and drought-like conditions in many parts of the UK, you’ll need to compensate for the lack of resources.

‘This year, we have had below-average rainfall,’ says Chris. ‘Adequate water is essential for the seeds to sprout and establish, so make sure you water your sown seeds frequently.’

In fact, regularly watering your lawn is one of the most important August lawn care tips right now.

‘Ideally, you should water the seeds every day for six weeks after they are sown,’ Chris advises. ‘If there is prolonged rainfall, you can sometimes avoid doing this.’

It’s worth investing in a sprinkler like the Hozelock Rotating Vortex Garden Sprinkler, £21.50 at B&Q, to keep your lawn watered consistently (unless, of course, your area is under a hosepipe ban!).

There’s also the question of whether you should water your garden in the morning or at night – and in August, the answer is crucial.

‘Watering your seeds early in the morning is best, as this leaves time for the water to soak in before the scorching heat arrives, and minimises the risk of fungal diseases, which can thrive in warm, humid conditions overnight,’ explains Chris.

‘For best results, consider using enriched seed mixes like Patch Magic or Westland grass seed varieties coated in protective gel – they tend to establish more quickly and effectively,’ adds Agata Henderson, leading London garden designer.

You can buy Miracle-Gro Patch Magic Grass Seed, Feed & Coir from Argos for just £8 right now.

As long as you've got a watering can or sprinkler handy, you can go ahead and overseed your lawn this August. It's the prime time to do it!

Ever heard of a wetting agent for lawns? If you’re unfamiliar with the term, it’s about time you learned about the benefits of this type of lawn treatment – and when you should use one.

If you’re looking for hot-weather lawn care tips, a wetting agent could help your lawn stay hydrated and healthy.

But what is a wetting agent for lawns? To find out how it works and when you should use it in your garden, I spoke to a few lawn experts.

Where to buy a wetting agent for lawns

• B&Q: This Liquid Wetting Agent for Lawns & Plants covers 500m².
• Amazon: The Striking Lawns Premium Wetting Agent is Amazon's Choice.

How does a wetting agent work?

In short, a wetting agent helps a lawn absorb water better. In technical terms, it’s all about surface tension.

‘A wetting agent is a chemical that reduces the surface tension of water,’ says Chris McIlroy, lawn expert at The Grass People. ‘When applied to soil, it helps rain and water penetrate the turf and spread more efficiently.’

If you’ve been struggling to look after your lawn under a hosepipe ban, a wetting agent could be the key to helping your grass lock in moisture.

'Water can sometimes just run off soil, especially when the ground is dry and hard,' Chris continues. 'By disrupting the water’s surface tension, a wetting agent immediately allows it to filter down through the soil, right to the roots where it’s most needed.'

So, why is this useful for lawns? Well, if you’re keen to revive a dry lawn, a wetting agent could be the rescuer it needs. These are the key benefits.

Benefits of a wetting agent for lawns

1. It keeps your grass hydrated

A wetting agent can promote better hydration, allowing your soil to take in more water than usual. It's especially helpful if you've got a hard, dry lawn on your hands.

‘It’s best used in compacted or clay-like soil, to help improve the structure and make sure your grass is able to soak up the moisture it needs to thrive from the roots,’ says Chrissie Handley, lawn care specialist at Online Turf.

Your lawn will absorb fertiliser better

Water isn’t the only thing your lawn will get better at absorbing thanks to a wetting agent - fertiliser stands a better chance of working its magic, too, especially if you're using an autumn lawn fertiliser before winter.

‘Not only does the wetting agent help with water absorption, but it simultaneously improves nutrient retention from any fertiliser you may want to apply, meaning you’re keeping your grass nice and healthy and giving it an autumn boost before winter dormancy,’ explains Chrissie.

When to use a wetting agent on a lawn

We're fast approaching the best time to use a wetting agent on a lawn.

'Early autumn is normally a good time to apply the wetting agent, as it’s following on from summer where your lawn has been heavily used and may have compacted as a result,' Chrissie says.

It's also worth learning how to aerate your lawn at this point, especially if it's compacted.

The weather also plays an important role. 'To get the best out of your wetting agent, apply it to your turf before watering or rainfall,' says Chris from The Grass People.

'Add it to the whole lawn or just to patches that need it. If you're just treating specific dry areas, spread it onto an area bigger than the initial patch to ensure thorough coverage.'

Will you be using a wetting agent on your lawn this autumn?

If you own a lawn and a dog, chances are, you’ve found yourself wondering how to get rid of dog urine marks on grass before.

And you wouldn’t be the only one – it’s one thing learning how to stop dogs from digging in the garden, but urine can damage a lawn just as much as any other canine habit.

Luckily, there are a few ways to fix dog urine marks on grass – and if you’re willing to take a few of these lawn care tips on board, it’s possible to keep your grass healthy and let your dog enjoy your garden.

1. Make sure your dog is hydrated

Prevention is better than cure, and before you learn how to get rid of dog wee patches on grass, it’s worth figuring out how to protect your lawn in the first place.

To do that, we have to understand why dog urine causes yellow grass – and it’s all to do with the chemical content.

‘Dog urine is a common cause of unsightly lawn damage due to its high nitrogen content,’ explains Cheryl Harper, managing director at Greensleeves Lawn Care. ‘When concentrated in one spot, this nitrogen acts much like an overuse of fertiliser, leading to scorched patches of brown, dead grass.’

Cheryl says that keeping your dog hydrated can dilute the nitrogen levels in the urine. A dog bowl that refills itself, like the Amazon Basics Dog and Cat Water Feeder, will ensure your dog has access to plenty of water.

Changing up your dog-walking schedule has its benefits, too.

‘One of the simplest and most effective ways to protect your lawn is by getting your dog into a good routine,’ Cheryl says. ‘Taking them for a walk first thing in the morning means their most concentrated wee of the day ends up anywhere but your garden.’

2. Wash it away immediately

To really crack down on stains, you’ll have to be on the ball and keep a watering can or bucket handy for whenever your dog takes a toilet break outside.

‘To protect your lawn, thoroughly water the area where your dog has urinated with a watering can immediately,’ says Chris McIlroy, lawn expert at The Grass People. ‘This will dilute the pee and stop the grass from becoming scorched and yellow.’

This solution requires more effort, but it’s worth doing if you’re set on making your grass look greener than ever.

3. Don't cut your grass too short

Monty Don says you should leave your grass long over winter, but apparently, taking the edge off your cuts can help limit the damage from dog urine, too.

‘When it’s time to trim your grass, raise the height of your mower so your lawn is not as short,’ advises Chris. ‘This will mean it is less sensitive to damage.’

In fact, cutting your grass too short is one of the most common lawn care mistakes.

4. Look at your dog's diet

Besides taking your dog for an early morning walk, consider taking a closer look at their diet, which could be responsible for more than you’d think.

‘Although it’s worth discussing with your vet first, it might be a good idea to explore whether your dog’s diet is too high in protein,’ says Cheryl. ‘Finding a more balanced food could help reduce the strength of their urine.’

5. Seed over damaged areas

If you’re wondering how to get rid of dog urine marks on grass, it’s worth learning how to overseed your lawn to encourage fresh grass to replenish any yellow patches.

‘Overseed your lawn with a hardwearing and durable grass seed,’ says Chris. ‘It won’t stop your lawn from becoming damaged, but it will create a lawn that is more tolerant to wear and tear and can recover faster, which is important if your dog also likes to dig.’

Pronto's Super Speedy Grass Seed, from £7.99 at Amazon, is a bestseller.

If you can train your dog to pee in a dedicated corner of the garden, it’s a lot easier to keep on top of overseeding.

‘Some dog owners find success in training their pets to use a specific area of the garden, which helps to contain the damage,’ says Cheryl. ‘This designated spot can be re-turfed or repaired periodically.'

6. Or, start afresh

If the damage is extensive and your lawn is covered in stains, one of the best ways to get rid of dog wee patches is by reseeding your lawn.

‘Start by raking away the dead grass to create space for healthy new growth,’ advises Cheryl. ‘Then, lightly break up the soil in the affected patch and consider adding some top dressing to help provide nutrients and improve soil structure.'

Miracle-Gro's Evergreen Lawn Dressing from Amazon is a good choice.

‘Reseed the area with lawn seed and keep it well watered – consistent moisture is key to ensuring the new grass seed germinates properly,' Cheryl continues. 'With a little patience and attention, your lawn can bounce back from the damage.'

Luckily, there are plenty of ways to fix dog urine stains on a lawn, or at least limit the damage.

Wondering how to water a garden without an outside tap? Thankfully, there are a few workarounds.

If you've been figuring out how to water your garden during a hosepipe ban, you'll already know there are a few ways you can keep your plants hydrated without relying on the mains. But the absence of an outside tap altogether makes things a little trickier.

I checked in with the experts to pull together a list of the best ways to water a garden without an outside tap.

1. Connect a hose to the inside tap

If your area is affected by a hosepipe ban this summer, you'll have to skip this one – but usually, you can connect a hose to an inside tap instead of an outdoor one. You'll just need to make sure your hose is long enough to extend outside, and pick up an adapter.

'Even without an outdoor tap, you can still use a hose to water your garden by connecting it to an indoor tap using an adapter,' says Alina Gordon, marketing and communications executive at Hozelock UK.

'The Hozelock Indoor Threaded Tap Connector is an ideal solution. Designed to fit most standard kitchen or bathroom taps, you can attach it securely in seconds. Once the connector is in place, simply attach your hose as usual, and you’re ready to water your garden.'

2. Use a water butt

Learning how to install a water butt is one of the most eco-friendly things you can do in the garden, and it's a brilliant way to water your garden without an outside tap.

'Once you have a water butt, you can either use it to fill a watering can or connect it to a soaker hose, which can be used to slowly and efficiently drip water directly onto the surface of your soil,' says Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation.

To up the pressure, you can invest in a pump like the Bosch Cordless Submersible Water Pump from Amazon.

3. Set up an irrigation kit

You'll need a water butt or rain barrel for this one, too, but setting up a drip watering system (bonus points for sustainability if it's solar-powered!) is a brilliant way to water your garden efficiently without an outside tap.

'The Hozelock Solar Select is a great automatic watering solution that can keep your plants healthy and thriving without the need for an outside tap,' says Alina.

'With 13 pre-set watering programmes, it gives you full control over how long, how often, and how much your plants are watered. The ‘Rain Delay’ feature helps save water by pausing watering for up to five days when rain is forecast, while the ‘Water Now’ function will instantly water plants, ensuring your garden stays optimally hydrated whatever the weather, even without an outdoor tap.'

4. Use grey water

If you've got a large bucket, consider recycling some water from around the home. There are plenty of ways to use grey water in the garden.

'Another great way of conserving water and still being able to keep your plants hydrated is to collect water after you have had a bath, washed your pots, or had a shower.'

Just make sure you aren't using water that contains chemicals, as that could do your plants more harm than good, and try to avoid using grey water on edible crops.

5. Or, opt for manual watering

It goes without saying, but if you've got a small garden or don't mind add a few extra steps to your daily count (and a bit of strength!), you can fill up a watering can from an inside tap and use that.

'Carrying a watering can, ideally one with dual handles for easy, balanced watering, can provide you with some gentle exercise and time to check your plants for pests or diseases,' says Lucie.

'Ideally, use a watering can which has a wide mouth for easy filling, a narrow spout for precise watering and a detachable rose so you can change the flow of water as required.'

So, there are plenty of options at your disposal if you're wondering how to water a garden without an outside tap. Your plants don't have to go thirsty!

If you’ve been wondering how Wimbledon have been keeping its grass so pristine in such hot weather, then you’ve landed in the right place as it has been revealed the Wimbledon team use a wetting agent that ‘makes water wetter’, and you can also pick up a version, such as this Premium Wetting Agent (£15.99 at Amazon) for happier, healthier lawn.

There’s no denying that scorching weather can ruin your lawn ideas, leaving you with ugly brown patches. But don’t worry, you can revive a dry lawn, and a wetting agent is something the pros use to do this.

As reported by The Guardian, Neil Stubley, Wimbledon’s head of courts and horticulture, revealed that groundskeepers use a special wetting agent that helps grass absorb moisture more easily. While I haven’t been able to track down exactly what wetting agent the team uses (I’m sure this will remain top secret), I have asked the pros to explain how to use a wetting agent at home. This is what they said.

What is a wetting agent?

Now, a wetting agent doesn’t exactly ‘make water wetter’ (as Neil stated in the press), what they do is help water soak more effectively into the soil, preventing it from running off or forming puddles.

‘Wetting agents specifically for lawns work by reducing surface tension in soil water so that water is able to penetrate and spread across the soil more efficiently, which improves how available it is to plants and can reduce water usage. They do not reduce the need for watering, but instead make it easier for water to penetrate the soil and for the soil to hold onto it,’ explains Richard Barker, commercial director of LBS Horticulture.

‘Applying a wetting agent before a heatwave can help to prepare your lawn for the lower amount of moisture that will be available. It can also help to improve the water absorption of the soil and help water to be distributed more evenly.’

For the healthiest lawn, you should use a wetting agent alongside best lawn care practices such as scarifying and aerating your lawn in the spring and autumn and keeping on top of mowing, watering and reseeding in the summer.

Should you use a wetting agent in summer?

It’s important to note that wetting agents are typically used for professional lawns, such as golf greens, which have finer grass, but this doesn’t mean you can’t use them at home. And they’re easy to use too, all you need to do is spray the formula over your lawn and let the product do the rest.

‘I do recommend using a wetting agent during hot spells, especially if your lawn is showing signs of water repellence or you notice water running off. It’s a smart way to make the most of limited water and keep your grass in better shape,’ says Luke Newnes, new build gardening specialist, gardening content creator and member of the Interior Squad at Hillarys.

‘Wetting agents can be especially useful during a hosepipe ban, as they help any water you do use, from a watering can, go much further. It’s a practical tool to help your lawn survive dry spells when watering is restricted.’

A wetting agent can give your lawn an extra boost in extreme temperatures, keeping it happy, healthy and well-hydrated.

Drought-tolerant plants famously need very little water to thrive, making them ideal for dry, hot summers. But how often should you water drought-tolerant plants in the garden?

Even the best drought-tolerant plants out there need some water to survive, but figuring out how often you should water your garden in hot weather is always tricky work.

I checked in with the experts to find out how much water drought-tolerant plants really need, in pots and the ground, and picked up a few pieces of watering wisdom to ensure your plants get the most out of every drop.

What you'll need

• A watering can, like the Hardys 10L Green Rose Watering Can, £12.99 at Amazon
• A drip irrigation kit, like the Verve 60-Piece Irrigation Kit, now £15 at B&Q
• Or, upgrade to a smart watering system, like the Gardena Water Control with Bluetooth® App, now £69.99 at Amazon

How often should you water drought-tolerant plants in the ground?

You’ll find that a lot of the best plants for a Mediterranean garden are drought-tolerant, because their roots can be traced back to dry, hot climates.

To find out how often you should water drought-tolerant plants, it made sense to check in with Sam Shipman, head gardener at the National Trust’s Beningbrough in North Yorkshire, which is home to a new Mediterranean garden. It features plants from Mediterranean zones that can better cope with both extreme heat and wet.

As it turns out, it depends on how old your drought-tolerant plants are, because they need more water in their first year of planting.

‘In the new Mediterranean Garden, we only water the newly planted plants for the first year,’ Sam explains.

‘We plant as much as we can in autumn and spring when the soil is warm and wet, as this encourages plants to put roots down into the soil to find water, rather than developing shallow surface roots which will be more vulnerable to hot sun and drought.’

So, how much water do drought-tolerant plants need in their first year?

‘Drought-tolerant plants in borders need watering every one to two weeks during their establishment phase, depending on weather conditions,’ says Annelise Brilli, Thompson & Morgan’s horticultural copywriter.

Once they're established, you can scale the watering right back.

‘After about six to eight weeks, they typically develop strong enough root systems to handle dry spells without assistance,’ Annelise explains.

If you’re wondering whether it’s better to water your plants in the morning or at night, both times can work for drought-tolerant plants.

‘You should avoid the heat of the day, when water evaporates quickly, so water early in the morning or evening,’ says Liam Cleary, outdoor plants expert at the Old Railway Line Garden Centre.

It’s also crucial that you’re watering your drought-tolerant plants efficiently, so that moisture isn’t lost to the summer heat. Beyond the establishment phase, infrequent but deep watering is best.

‘When planting trees and large shrubs, adding a pipe that reaches the roots will be the most effective way to water them, rather than watering on top of the soil,’ says the National Trust’s Sam.

You can pick up Amazon's Choice for an irrigation pipe for £19.95.

Mulching is also a drought-tolerant plant’s best friend.

‘We mulch with gravel, which is in keeping with the Mediterranean feel – to help reduce water loss,’ says Sam. ‘We mulch the rest of the garden with compost and leaf mould, again, to help keep moisture in.’

How often should you water drought-tolerant plants in pots?

Now, container plants are a little different. Like all low-maintenance potted plants, drought-tolerant plants in containers will dry out a lot quicker, and while they can tolerate dry conditions, they’ll need more attention than plants in garden borders.

‘Potted plants generally need watering once or twice a week, but containers –especially terracotta pots and hanging baskets – can dry out much more quickly,’ explains Annelise.

‘While highly drought-tolerant plants like tender pelargoniums may survive for two to three weeks without water, prolonged dry spells in hot weather can cause stress symptoms such as yellowing or reddening foliage and a noticeable drop in flowering. Regular watering will help maintain their health and performance.’

It’s important to get the potting mix right to begin with, too.

‘When planting in pots, we include soil in the mix to help retain water,’ says the National Trust’s Sam. ‘Mulch the soil and water every other day in hot weather. Watch out for windy weather as this can be very drying, and remember to feed – perhaps with a seaweed feed – as the water will leach nutrients out of the soil.’

You can pick up envii SeaFeed Xtra from £13.95 at Amazon.

The amount of water drought-tolerant plants need will depend on whether they're in pots or the ground, and how long ago you planted them. Drought-tolerant vegetables might need a little more tending to...

Here’s one toy I didn’t expect to see used as a plant support: a Slinky.

My mum is always coming up with brilliant DIY and upcycling ideas for the garden, but this one might be my favourite so far. She used a £12 Super-Size Metal Spring Toy from Amazon to grow a vertical column of clematis, and the results were fast and impressive.

Here’s how she did it.

What you'll need

• A super-size Slinky like the WOW! STUFF Super-Size Metal Spring Toy from Amazon
• A clematis plant like Clematis 'Zara' from Crocus
• A wooden post like this Incised Timber Fence Post from Wickes
• A screw eye – you can pick up a pack of 25 screw eyes from Amazon

When my mum told me she was using a Slinky to grow clematis, I couldn’t wait to see the results. Luckily, I didn’t have to wait long – my mum put the Slinky up at the end of March, and within weeks, the shoots began wrapping themselves around the base springs.

Before we knew it, the clematis burst into leaf, and the foliage began a steady (but fast) climb up the Slinky.

Since the springs are circular, the plant formed a lush, 3D effect, and the Slinky was completely disguised by the leaves. I’m a big fan of a budget trellis idea, but this one might be the best I’ve seen so far.

So, how did she do it?

We had an old wooden one-inch batten lying around, so that worked as a support for the Slinky itself.

My mum simply looped the post through the middle of the Slinky, stretched the springs out across the length of the post, and pushed and bent the end of the slinky through a screw eye at the top of the post (she used her fingers, but you could also use a pair of pliers like the Hilka Mini Combination Pliers, which are currently £4.52 at Amazon). She knocked the base of the post into the ground with a rubber mallet so it stood against the fence.

My mum pruned her clematis last year, so she positioned the support just behind the ground-level shoots. By the time the flowers appeared, the clematis had formed a 3D column of green leaves and showy pink blooms, and it looked absolutely incredible next to my mum's bug hotel.

The only thing my mum wishes she'd done differently is make the batten shorter, because the clematis has already reached its peak height and part of the Slinky is still visible above the plant. But that's easily remedied, and it's worth considering the reach of the variety you're growing if you're trying this idea for the first time.

I asked Gardening Express's founder, Chris Bonnett, for a clematis variety recommendation.

'Clematis 'Piilu''s first flowers grow on old stems from last year, and the second round comes from new growth,' he says. 'This variety is best for those who are happy to take the time to prune the flower carefully.'

For the best results, you'll need to choose the right growing spot for your clematis Slinky.

'Clematis loves to have its top in the sun but its roots in shade, so place your Slinky in a suitable place and plant at the base of the Slinky in a spot with around six hours of sunlight a day,' says Morris Hankinson, founder of Hopes Grove Nurseries.

My mum's fence is south-facing, which puts it in good stead for plenty of flowers.

The clematis finished its first round of flowering a few weeks ago, but it's ready to put out a second round of blooms later in the summer. In the meantime, the foliage is thriving and makes a lovely feature in itself until the flowers reappear.

It’s safe to say that the Slinky gets my vote for the best plant support for clematis. If you’ve got a metal one lying around at home, it’s worth giving it a go. My mum’s hoping hers will weather to create a rusted corten steel effect.

If you’re wondering how your grass will fare against this week’s soaring temperatures, you’re not alone – but fortunately, there are a few foolproof ways to protect your lawn during a heatwave.

There are plenty of ways to keep your garden cool in a heatwave, but when it comes to protecting your lawn, the experts have a few tricks up their sleeves. Sure, you can learn how to revive a dry lawn, but it's even wiser to keep your grass from drying up in the first place.

Prevention is better than cure, so a panel of trusted lawn experts have shared their tips on how to protect your lawn in this week’s heatwave.

1. Keep your grass long

Working out how often you should mow your lawn can be tricky, but when temperatures are as high as they are this week, it’s important to scale back the mowing and keep your grass long.

‘Start by raising your mower blades to leave grass longer, which helps shade the soil and retain moisture,’ says Cheryl Harper, managing director of Greensleeves. ‘Avoid cutting more than a third of the grass height at once.’

Cheryl also recommends leaving grass clippings on your lawn to act as a natural mulch, which shelters the grass beneath.

2. Aerate your lawn

Learning how to aerate a lawn is one of the best things you can do for your garden, whether you’re hoping to improve lawn drainage or fix a waterlogged lawn. It’s also a crucial step in protecting your lawn during a heatwave.

‘Aerating regularly throughout the year can create little pockets in a lawn which helps water and nutrients reach down into the grass roots,’ explains Chris McIlroy, lawn expert at The Grass People. ‘It can prevent the lawn from being compacted, so that water can seep through more easily.’

If you don’t have an aerator tool, you can use a garden fork – but if you’re in the market for dedicated equipment, here are some places you can buy one:

3. Water deeply, not often

If you’re wondering whether you can water grass in the sun, you can water it during hot weather – but the real win is doing it efficiently, especially if you’re hoping to preserve your lawn in a heatwave.

‘Water your lawn deeply once or twice a week rather than little and often,’ advises Cheryl.

Above all else, timing is key. ‘Always water early in the morning or late evening to reduce evaporation, and consider using collected rainwater to conserve resources,' Cheryl says.

For ease, a sprinkler like the Kärcher OS 3.220 Oscillating Sprinkler, £24,99 from B&Q, can cover medium- to large-sized lawns.

These lawn care tips should help you protect your lawn during this week's heatwave. Are there any other tricks you swear by?

Looking for a herb that’s beautiful and loved by bees? Learn how to grow borage and you’ll be rewarded with delicate blue flowers that taste great in salads.

Borage is an asset to every herb garden idea; it’s easy to grow, delicious in various dishes, and a little different to the more traditional herbs we grow here in the UK.

If you’re keen to learn how to grow borage yourself, I’ve put together a growing guide with the help of some trusted garden experts. You’ll find planting, watering and harvesting tips below.

What you'll need

• Borage seeds, like Borago officinalis seeds from Thompson & Morgan
• Some snips like these Spear & Jackson Razorsharp Precision Snips from Amazon
• A watering can like the Hardys 5L Watering Can from B&Q

Step-by-step

1. Choose the right spot

Although you can grow borage in pots, Mr Fothergill’s seed manager, Rachel Cole, recommends growing the herb in garden borders or beds instead.

‘This tall, striking herb can grow up to 60cm and is best planted directly into the ground rather than in pots, where it has ample space to flourish,’ she says. ‘It prefers a sunny spot with well-drained, light soil.’

Borage is one of the best companion plants for strawberries, so it's worth planting it close to your strawberry plants.

2. Sow the seeds

Borage is generally grown from seed, and it’s pretty easy to get it started.

‘Sow seeds directly into well-drained soil in spring, spacing them around 30cm apart,’ says Kate Cotterill, director of heirloom seed company She Grows Veg.

It can take a week or two for seedlings to appear, but Easy Garden Irrigation’s gardening and greenhouse expert Lucie Bradley has a clever way of achieving faster results.

‘You can speed up germination by refrigerating the seeds for two weeks prior to sowing,’ she says.

Bees love borage, so it's a great wildlife garden idea, too.

3. Thin the seedlings out

Borage grows quickly and needs plenty of room, so you’ll need to thin the seedlings out.

‘Once the seedlings appear, thin them out to approximately 60cm apart to give each plant sufficient room to grow,’ advises Rachel.

Spacing is crucial if you want healthy plants. ‘Adequate spacing will help with airflow to help combat powdery mildew, which is one of the few diseases that can affect borage,’ says Lucie.

4. Don't overwater or overfeed

When given enough room to grow, borage is a low-maintenance herb and doesn’t require much in the way of fertiliser.

‘Borage requires minimal feeding, as too much fertiliser can lead to more leaves and fewer flowers,’ explains Kate from She Grows Veg.

You’ll need to keep up with a consistent watering schedule, though. ‘Water regularly, especially during dry spells, but avoid waterlogging,’ Kate says.

5. Harvest the flowers and leaves – and enjoy!

Borage matures quickly, which means you’ll usually be able to harvest after eight weeks.

‘Once the plants are about eight weeks old, you can start to harvest the leaves, stems and gorgeous sky blue flowers,’ says Lucie. ‘Use a sharp pair of scissors or snips when harvesting, and only pick what you need, as borage is best eaten fresh.’

It’s best to pick the younger leaves. ‘These will be tender and won't be as bristly as the older leaves,’ Lucie explains.

Just note that borage isn’t suitable for consumption by those who are pregnant or breastfeeding.

FAQs

What should not be planted next to borage?

Although borage is a great companion plant for strawberries and a range of other plants, there are a few combinations you should avoid.

‘Avoid planting borage near potatoes,’ warns Rachel from Mr Fothergill’s. ‘If the potatoes develop blight, it can quickly spread to borage and cause the plant to die.

‘Fennel is another plant to steer clear of, as it doesn't play nicely with borage.’

In fact, fennel is one of the key herbs you should never plant together with other varieties.

What parts of borage are edible?

We’ve already covered leaves as one of the main edible parts of borage, but you can enjoy the flowers, too.

‘The vibrant blue flowers are edible and can be used in salads or frozen into ice cubes for a pretty twist on summer drinks,’ says Kate from She Grows Veg.

The stems are also edible. ‘You can cook the stalks just like any other vegetable, but it’s best to scrape off the prickles before cooking,’ advises Lucie from Easy Garden Irrigation.

So, that's how to grow borage! It's really simple, and it's well worth it for showstopping salads and garnishes.

Wondering what to do after scarifying a lawn? If you've just tackled this lawn care task for the first time, it's a good idea to get on board with some follow-up steps.

Learning how to scarify a lawn is one of the best things you can do for your garden: it promotes lush, green growth, and it can transform your garden. To keep your lawn in tip-top shape after the process, you'll need to have a few extra lawn care tips up your sleeve.

I checked in with lawn care experts to determine exactly what to do after scarifying a lawn.

1. Clear away debris

Scarifying leaves a lot of thatch, moss and soil behind, and once you’ve finished raking, you’ll need to clear it all away. While some people leave grass clippings on the lawn, it’s much more sensible to remove scarified thatch as soon as possible.

‘Use a rake or leaf blower to clear away the debris,’ advises Cheryl Harper, managing director of Greensleeves. ‘By removing the debris immediately, you prevent it from matting down and blocking light from reaching the grass.’

2. Aerate your lawn

It’s also a good idea to learn how to aerate your lawn at this point, especially if you’ve already been wondering how to improve lawn drainage.

‘Aerating the lawn is the first recovery step and one which is often neglected,’ says Ben Agnew, grass expert at Lawnsmith.

‘If you have an older lawn, or are trying to revive a dry summer lawn, then adding a wetting agent at this point can be highly beneficial as it increases the water availability to grass roots and maximises water retention.’

You can buy Striking Lawns Premium Wetting Agent for £16.99 from Amazon.

3. Top dress

Once you’ve scarified, tidied and aerated your lawn, Cheryl recommends top dressing.

‘For best results, this should be followed by top dressing with a sandy or loamy soil mix to help level the surface and further encourage healthy root development,’ she explains.

So, if you’ve been wondering how to level your lawn, now is the perfect time to kill two birds with one stone.

Westland's Lawn and Turf Dressing, £16.99 from Amazon, or Hardy's Lawn Dressing, £14.99 from B&Q, are great choices.

4. Sow new grass seed

Scarifying can sometimes leave bare patches, so it's a good time to overseed your lawn in places.

‘After scarifying, it’s a good idea to get some grass seed down,’ says Chris McIlroy, lawn expert at The Grass People. ‘This will fill in any blank spaces and give your lawn a neat, uniform look.’

Then, add a little fertiliser. ‘Consider using a lawn feed high in phosphorus to support root establishment and overall recovery,’ adds Cheryl.

Pronto Seed Premium Grass Seed, from £8.99 is Amazon's Choice.

5. Feed your lawn (according to the season!)

Fertiliser can be a game-changer for a freshly scarified lawn, but you’ll need to make sure you’re applying the right type for the appropriate time of year.

‘Applying a high-quality autumn lawn feed (if scarifying in autumn) or a spring feed (if doing it in spring) can make a real difference in how quickly your lawn recovers,’ explains Cheryl. ‘These feeds are specially formulated to strengthen the grass and support new growth, giving you a healthier, greener lawn in the weeks that follow.’

Keep an eye out for the right ingredients, too. ‘Using a fertiliser containing potassium will help the grass fight off the stress of scarifying and help protect against disease,’ says Chris.

‘If you’re using a fertiliser with iron sulphate, then wait at least a couple of days before putting the seed in. For more reliable results, it’s worth waiting until the seed has germinated before applying fertiliser.’

FAQs

Do you need to water a lawn after scarifying?

Yes! Scarifying transformed my lawn within weeks, but as it was August, I had to use a sprinkler to keep it hydrated.

‘Lightly water the lawn daily for a few weeks, keeping the soil consistently moist until new grass begins to grow,’ advises Cheryl from Greensleeves.

‘Avoid overwatering – the soil should be damp, not soggy. A light misting early in the morning or late in the day is ideal, as it helps avoid evaporation and scorching during warmer weather.’

How long after scarifying should I cut my grass?

Don’t jump the gun on this one – you’ll need to wait for the grass to grow a little before mowing.

‘Wait until the new grass has grown to around 4-5cm before mowing,’ says Cheryl. ‘This usually takes around two to three weeks, depending on weather conditions and how well your lawn is recovering.

‘When mowing for the first time after scarifying, set your mower to a higher setting to avoid stressing the young grass shoots.’

Knowing what to do after scarifying a lawn is just as important as the process itself. With the right steps in place, your lawn should grow greener and lusher than ever.

I’m all for a clever watering hack, but this one is slightly different: the watering pan test.

In a nutshell, it’s a way of figuring out how often to water your garden in hot weather – you fill up a pan with water, put it on your lawn, and leave it for a week. The amount of water lost through evaporation can tell you a lot about the amount of water being lost from the soil, and from there, you can work out how much water your lawn needs.

I was a little sceptical when I first read about the watering pan test, as it seemed like a long time to wait for results. But actually, it's a clever way of monitoring your lawn's water levels. I thought I’d check in with a few garden experts to evaluate just how effective the test is.

How does the watering pan test work?

So, how does the watering pan test work? All you need is a straight-sided pan (this Amazon Basics pan will do the trick) and some water.

‘The watering pan test is a way of determining how much water may evaporate from your garden soil in hot, dry weather,’ explains Graham Smith, MCIHort, gardening expert at LBS Horticulture.

If you really want to take the guesswork out of watering, a smart watering system can be a real game-changer. Many products, like the Gardena Water Control from Amazon, include a soil moisture sensor to ensure that your plants are being watered when they need it most. But if you're on a budget, the watering pan test can give you intel on your lawn's watering needs for free.

The method is easy enough. ‘To conduct the test, fill a straight-sided pan with water, and mark where the top of the water reaches,’ says Graham. ‘Leave the pan in place for a week, and the amount of water that has evaporated out of the pan is supposedly equivalent to the amount of water that will have evaporated from the soil.’

The idea is that you need to provide your garden with that much water, plus any that it might have lost through transpiration.

To make life easier, you could learn how to set up a drip irrigation system like Hozelock's Universal Irrigation Kit from Amazon – or, stick to a traditional watering can.

Does the watering pan test work?

The watering pan test is a straightforward one, and the science makes sense: it's all about monitoring evaporation levels in the garden. But how accurate is it?

'While it's a helpful guide, it’s not plant-specific,' says Liam Cleary, outdoor plants expert at Old Railway Line Garden Centre. 'Different plants have different watering needs, so this test won't tell you exactly how much water each one requires.'

So, it might give an insight into our lawn's moisture levels, but it's not a one-size-fits-all test. It can help us water more mindfully, though – and alongside other water-saving measures like installing a water butt, you'll be well on your way to eco-friendly gardening.

'It can help prevent overwatering and keep your watering habits more in tune with the differing weather conditions,' Liam says.

So, the watering pan test can be a useful watering indicator – but it's more about becoming mindful about how much water your garden really needs.

I don’t know about you, but ‘Aldi’ and ‘robot lawn mower’ are not usually words I would include in a sentence together. But now I am, because Aldi is launching a robotic lawn mower.

Landing in the middle aisle on 1 May, I don’t expect this specialbuy to be on the shelves for long. Promising to keep your lawn pristine at minimal effort, it begs the question: Is Aldi coming for the crown of the best lawn mower this year?

The robotic mower offers higher-end mowing features at an affordable price, it’s £250 cheaper than B&Q’s Yard Force MB400 Robotic Lawnmower.

But is it worth investing in? This is everything you need to know about the Aldi robotic mower.

At just £199, the Aldi robot lawn mower is one of the cheapest models I’ve seen. If you’ve been wondering how much to spend on a lawn mower, experts typically recommend spending anything between £200 and £400, making this mower feel like a total steal.

The garden gadget claims to be hassle-free, keeping your garden in shape with minimal intervention from you. Controlled via app, which connects to the mower using a Bluetooth connection, you can sit back, relax and control the mower with your smartphone. You can even schedule the mower in advance.

Aldi states the lawn mower has a one-time setup, meaning it should be easy to connect every time you use it. It also comes with a charging station and clip-on cover for all weather protection.

The Aldi robot lawn mower has obstacle, tilt and turnover sensors so you don't have to worry about it falling over on your lawn. Plus, it has a maximum slope of 30%, meaning you can still use it if your garden isn’t flat. It has been designed with adjustable cutting heights to mow grass from 20-55mm with precision in gardens up to 400m.

The features of this robot mower all sound wonderful, but having not tested it myself, I can’t vouch for how good it is. But a long-time fan of the Aldi middle aisle, I can say I have always been left impressed by their products in the past.

At Ideal Home, our trusted reviews have tested robotic lawn mowers before - the Flymo EasiLife GO 250 Robotic Lawn Mower - and found robotic mowers are an effective bit of kit. They mow effectively and have a subtle presence.

However, robot lawn mowers typically are an investment. So, Aldi’s £199 price point makes it an affordable choice if you want to dip your toe into the world of smart homes and robot gadgets.

I’ll admit I’m completely intrigued by the Aldi robot lawn mower and quite fancy giving it a try. Has your arm been twisted too?

Robot lawn mower alternatives

The Aldi robot mower has been bought back for 2026, but these are a few alternatives we recommend instead.

If you’re tired of looking out to a plain grass lawn, learning how to grow a creeping thyme lawn could be the next best thing you do for your garden.

This purple-flowered creeping perennial is a beautiful, low-maintenance lawn alternative, and it’s a popular choice for those looking to grow a tapestry lawn. It's great for wildlife, too.

To help you get started, we’ve checked in with gardening experts and thrown together a guide on how to grow a red creeping thyme lawn from scratch.

1. Make sure the conditions are right

Before you get started, you’ll need to make sure your garden fits the bill – because a successful red creeping thyme lawn will depend on a few factors.

‘You’ll want to make sure that you’ve a sunny spot that gets lots of natural sunlight,’ says Liam Cleary, gardening expert at the Old Railway Line Garden Centre. ‘It does require patience, too. It can take up to three years to achieve a ‘carpet’ look.’

If your lawn usually receives a lot of foot traffic, it might be better to avoid this perennial.

‘If you have pets, children or want to walk on it, then forget it,’ warns garden designer Harriet Worsley. ‘It’s just not tough enough for boots, shoes and heavy humans – let alone running children and capering dogs.

‘However, for a lawn that is only really viewed, or one that has paving stepping-stones running through it, it will grow into a beautiful verdant mat of groundcover.’ In fact, coupling a red creeping thyme lawn with stepping stones is a brilliant, cheap, DIY garden path idea.

2. Buy the plants

A red creeping thyme lawn isn’t usually grown from seed – instead, you’ll need to buy the plants.

‘The drawbacks are that it is grown from plants, rather than seed, so a larger area lawn can become expensive to start with,’ says Liam.

If you’re keen to start a creeping thyme lawn, we’re in the perfect season to get started.

‘To grow, begin the process in spring,’ says Liam. ‘Plant in well-drained soil, and ensure you water whenever there’s a dry spell for at least the first year.’

Where to buy creeping thyme plants:

3. Monitor growth

A red creeping thyme lawn can take a while to fully establish, but the results are worth the wait.

‘In the first few months, the plant will establish its root system,’ explains Chris Bonnett, garden expert and owner of GardeningExpress.co.uk. ‘This growth, to begin with, can be slow. After that, it will begin spreading outwards, and you should have a dense mat of coverage within one to two years.’

4. Hand weed (at first)

As your creeping thyme lawn grows, you’ll need to do very little besides watering it during dry spells. Even though it’s one of the best ground cover plants for preventing weeds, you’ll still need to keep on top of some light weeding while it establishes.

‘Ensure you hand weed regularly to ensure the plants can knit together,’ explains Liam.

You won’t need to mow it, though.

‘It’s low-maintenance and requires no mowing at all as it usually stays low, around a few inches tall,’ says Chris.

5. Replenish the plants

Like most plants, a red creeping thyme lawn won't last forever, but there are ways to replenish the plants over time.

'To maintain the lawn, cut back after flowering to remove the spent flower heads and some of the soft green wood,' advises Liz Zorab, gardener, writer and BBC Radio Wales gardening expert. 'This should encourage plenty of new growth.'

You can also think about replacing the plants over time. 'Red creeping thyme lawns can get a bit patchy over time, as the plants mature and become woodier,' explains Liz. 'To remedy this, either lift and replace with new, young plants, or cut them back fairly hard, ensuring that you don’t cut it right back to the very old wood, as it may not regrow if you do.'

Will you be learning how to grow a creeping thyme lawn this year? We'd love to hear your thoughts!

Wondering how much to spend on a lawn mower?

If you’re on the hunt for one of the best lawn mowers on the market and trying to pin down a target budget, it can be tricky to know where to start.

That’s why I checked in with the experts to help you determine exactly which price range will get you the best bang for your buck, based on the size and condition of your lawn.

How much to spend on a lawn mower for a small garden

If you’re working with small garden ideas and lawn space is tight, you don't have to spend a huge amount of money for a decent lawn mower.

‘For smaller gardens, it’s not necessary to spend a lot, and a basic electric mower, either corded or cordless, will usually be more than enough and very affordable,’ says Nick Ee, product and training manager at home improvement specialists BLACK+DECKER.

So, what price range are we talking?

‘For smaller lawns – think city gardens or compact suburban spaces – you can absolutely get a reliable mower in the £100–£200 range,’ says garden and outdoor expert Jose Escalante from Roofing Craftsmen. ‘A manual push mower or a basic electric model will do the trick, especially if your lawn is flat and easy to manage.’

Our current favourite lawn mower for a small garden

How much to spend on a lawn mower for a medium-sized garden

If your lawn is a little larger but still not a sprawling space, you can think about a slightly more powerful model. While this usually means spending a little more, it’s worth the investment for a reliable piece of kit.

‘For medium-sized lawns, I’d recommend something a little more powerful, like a cordless battery-powered mower,’ says Nick. ‘These give you more freedom of movement and often come with useful features like mulching options or adjustable cutting heights, making them ideal for tackling a decent amount of grass in one go.’

It’s also a good idea to spend a little more on a mower if your lawn is uneven. We asked Jose for a target price range.

‘If you’ve got a mid-size lawn or slightly uneven terrain, you’ll want to spend a bit more – around £250–£400,’ he advises. ‘At this point, you’re getting better build quality, longer-lasting blades, and more power. Look for cordless electric mowers or even petrol models if you need the extra push.’

Our favourite lawn mower on the market might fit the bill:

How much to spend on a lawn mower for a large garden

A large lawn provides a canvas for a myriad of lawn ideas, but it can also be hard to keep on top of all that lawn care. That’s why it’s worth investing in a pricier model with a few extra features that make maintenance a little easier.

‘For large gardens or anyone who’s serious about their lawn looking pristine year-round, I suggest investing at least £500,’ Jose says. ‘ At this level, you're in self-propelled or robotic mower territory – perfect for people who’d rather not spend their weekends pushing a mower back and forth.

'You’re also getting features like mulching, height adjustment, and better battery life.’

Our current favourite that will do the job:

The verdict

We’ve broken it down by garden size, but what’s the average price range we should be looking at when buying a lawn mower?

‘The sweet spot for most homeowners is in that £250–£400 range,’ says Jose. ‘It's where performance, durability, and value really line up. But don’t just go by price – think about your lifestyle, your garden size, and how often you're actually mowing.

'A mower you enjoy using is one you’ll keep in good condition and use more often – and that’s what really keeps your lawn looking great.’

Which lawn mower have you got your eye on?

If you’re looking for a wilder, eco-friendly take on a traditional lawn this year, it’s worth thinking about when to sow a clover lawn.

While some of us find ourselves wondering whether you should get rid of clover in a lawn, others celebrate its benefits for bees and other wildlife as a great low-maintenance lawn alternative.

If that sounds like something you want to get on board with, there’s a huge window for sowing clover seed – and you can get started right now.

Where to buy clover seeds

• B&Q: Buy Gardeners Dream Small-Leaf White Clover Seeds.
• Amazon: Sow Pronto Seed White Clover Seeds for the bees.

If you’re wondering when to sow a clover lawn, you’re right on time – you can schedule the task into your lawn care calendar this month.

‘Clover lawns have many benefits, and one of them is that the seeds can be sown in spring, summer and autumn,’ says Chris McIlroy, grass expert at The Grass People.

Since spring is in full swing, it’s the perfect time to order some clover seeds and get sowing.

‘Clover will take around six weeks to become established, so now is a good time to start putting the work in,’ Chris explains.

As long as you avoid any lingering frosts (and those are a risk for many fruits, vegetables and flowers that you can plant in April, too), your clover seed should stand a good chance of success.

‘The best time to sow a clover lawn in the UK is between March and September, as this is when temperatures are usually at least 8°C through the day and night,’ explains Graham Smith MCIHort, gardening expert at LBS Horticulture.

‘A freshly sown clover lawn will need a consistent temperature of 8°C or higher for a minimum of two weeks after sowing. It should also not be exposed to any extreme weather, such as heatwaves, flooding or snow.’

Chris has a few tips to help those of us sowing a clover lawn for the first time.

'Clover seeds germinate and grow best when sown 5-10mm beneath the soil surface,' he says. 'A handy guide is to cover the seed with soil the equivalent to the thickness of three stacked £1 coins.'

We love that analogy! You'll also need to give the area some TLC after sowing.

'Don’t forget to continue to water the sown area deeply and daily until the clover is established, unless we experience a period of prolonged rainfall,' says Chris. 'Once it has germinated, water it frequently for the next six weeks to keep it green and prevent it from drying out.'

Can you add clover to an existing lawn?

Absolutely! Just as you can learn how to overseed a lawn, you can add clover seed into the mix, too. As Chris mentioned, it's a good idea to cover the seed with a layer of soil to improve germination rates.

Will you be sowing a clover lawn this year?