If hydrangeas are a resident in your garden, there’s one task you should do before the end of the month to multiply your collection – for free.

The task in question? Taking hydrangea cuttings. It’s the prime time to take semi-ripe cuttings, specifically, which are generally pieces of stem with a woody base and a soft green tip. According to experts, August is the perfect month to do it – but since we’re nearing the bank holiday, we’re running out of time.

Here’s why it’s so important to take hydrangea cuttings before August ends – and a few tips on achieving the best results, so that you can double, triple, or even quadruple your garden’s hydrangea collection without spending a penny.

What you'll need

Why should I take hydrangea cuttings before August ends?

The best time to take hydrangea cuttings very much depends on the type of cutting you’re taking. Softwood, semi-ripe and hardwood cuttings are the big three – but at this time of the year, semi-ripe cuttings are the ones you’ll be working with.

‘You should take hydrangea cuttings before August ends because the stems are at just the right stage,’ explains Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

‘They are soft enough at the tip to root well but starting to firm up at the base so they don’t rot as easily.’

So, semi-ripe cuttings taken this month are better equipped to survive the propagating process. Some rooting hormone powder like Westland's Organic Rooting Powder from Amazon can boost your success rate, too.

‘Taking them now gives the plants enough time to develop roots and settle before winter, whereas cuttings taken later in autumn are more likely to struggle in cold, damp conditions,’ Julian adds.

Of course, later in the year, you could take hardwood cuttings from your hydrangeas instead – but you’ll need to wait until winter, and work harder to maintain the best conditions for them to root and grow on.

How to take semi-ripe cuttings from hydrangeas in August

Taking semi-ripe cuttings from your plants is easier than it sounds – and so are the propagating steps that follow. To start with, you’ll need to make sure you’re snipping off the right part of the plant.

‘Choose healthy, non-flowering shoots about 10-15cm long, with at least two sets of leaves below the top set,’ advises Julian.

‘Cut just below a leaf node with clean secateurs, strip off the lower leaves, and cut the remaining leaves in half to reduce water loss.’

A sharp pair of bypass secateurs like the WOLF-Garten Bypass Secateurs from Amazon are best for easy, clean cuts. As Julian mentioned, you’ll need to make sure you’ve cleaned your garden tools properly, too.

It's crucial that you choose stems with no flowering shoots.

'You are aiming to select healthy stems from this year's growth, which have no flowers or buds on so that they will direct all their energy into root production rather than trying to support blooms,' says Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation.

You'll also need to watch out for any summer damage and, ideally, take the cuttings early in the morning.

'When selecting cuttings from your hydrangea after such long periods of hot, dry weather, be careful to avoid any sun-scorched branches, as intense heat can kill delicate cells within stems which will prevent them forming new roots,' warns Lucie.

Then, you can pot your cuttings up.

‘Insert each cutting into a small pot of gritty, well-drained compost, firm it in well and water straight away,’ says Julian. ‘Keep them in a bright spot out of direct sun, ideally in a propagator or under a clear cover, until rooted, which usually takes around six weeks.’

You can buy unheated propagators like this EarlyGrow Medium Propagator from B&Q.

It’s as simple as that! Tick this task off your list before the August bank holiday ends to grow free hydrangeas that you can plant up in your own garden or gift to friends and family.

Is a neighbour’s hedge overshadowing your garden? And is it over two metres tall? You’re probably wondering whether you can ask them to cut it down – and what to do if they don’t.

The rules around whether or not you can cut your neighbour’s hedge are one thing, but if you’re hoping that they’ll do it themselves, there are a few steps you can take to make that happen. You’ll just need to go the right way about it – and make their hedge fits the right criteria.

I spoke to the legal experts to find out where you stand.

Hedges are one of those garden features that can cause neighbour disputes because they can infringe on a space without physically entering the bounds of that space. They’re often to blame for blocking sunlight from your garden, for example – and if your neighbour’s hedge is over two metres tall, you’re probably wondering whether you can make them cut it down.

The answer isn’t exactly straightforward. You’ll need to make it’s the right type of hedge, for one – because deciduous hedges (the ones that lose their leaves during the colder months) are trickier to bring down with help from your local authority.

‘The relevant law is the high hedges legislation under Part 8 of the Anti-social Behaviour Act 2003, but it only applies to a specific type of hedge: two or more trees or shrubs, mostly evergreen or semi-evergreen, over two metres tall, and acting as a barrier to light or access,’ explains Andrew Boast, founder of SAM Conveyancing.

So, what happens if your neighbour’s hedge (or hedges) meet that criteria? First, as with any neighbour's garden habit that annoys you, it’s best to speak to your neighbour directly and try to come to a mutual agreement.

‘The local authority will generally expect reasonable attempts to have been made to resolve matters before accepting a high hedge complain,’ says Sarah Dodd, founder and CEO of Tree Law Solicitors. ‘If the hedge is not evergreen or mostly evergreen, or does not fall within the high hedge regime, it can be much more difficult to compel work simply because of its height.’

If that fails, you can report the issue to your local authority.

‘In that situation, you can ask the local authority to assess the impact the hedge is having on the reasonable enjoyment of your property, including the extent to which it is blocking light,’ advises Sarah.

Evidence, though, is key, and as Andrew explains, you’ll need to ‘Keep a record of everything, along with a photograph of the hedge at different times of year, because if the case does end up in front of the council, you’ll need evidence that you’ve made an actual effort before escalating.’

Sarah also notes that there are other reasons a local authority might be able to intervene. If your neighbour’s tree is damaging your fence, for example, it’s worth gathering structural evidence.

‘The council will then review and send someone out to assess the hedge against those legal criteria and decide whether it's unreasonably affecting your home or garden,’ says Andrew.

‘If they agree with you, they’ll issue a remedial notice telling your neighbour what height to bring the hedge down to and by when. The council can’t order it removed entirely or cut below two metres, only reduced enough to fix the specific problem it's causing.’

Andrew also explained that your neighbour could be fined up to £1,000 for ignoring a remedial notice – and after persistent ignorance, the council could even enter the land, bill your neighbour and complete the work themselves.

What about deciduous hedges?

We’ve already established that deciduous hedges aren’t covered under Part 8 of the Anti-social Behaviour Act 2003, but Andrew says that doesn’t mean you can’t do anything about an enormous deciduous hedge like beech or hawthorn.

‘If your neighbour’s hedge is deciduous, you're looking at common law nuisance rather than the high hedges route, which is a different and often slower conversation,’ he explains.

Above all else, remember that it’s an offence to prune your neighbour’s tree on their side of the fence – and the same applies to hedges.

‘It's also worth knowing that trespass isn't limited to physical entry, and leaning over the boundary or letting a ladder overhang into their garden counts as trespassing into their airspace, even if you never actually step onto their land,’ Andrew adds.

If the hedge is entering the bounds of your garden and you do want to trim it yourself, it’s worth notifying your neighbour first, and making sure that any cuttings are offered back to your neighbour before you throw them in the bin (since it’s still their property!).

Hedge pruning essentials

If the branches fall on your side of the fence (and you offer the cuttings back!).

So, if your neighbour's hedge meets the above criteria, there are steps you can take to have it trimmed.

If there's one thing I think every garden could benefit from, it's more trees; nature's air conditioning, they create shady spots, add plenty of year-round interest in the form of berries, blossoms, and shifting foliage, and they are great for wildlife. And yet...

Well, and yet there are five I'd never plant in my own garden. I'm certainly not anti-tree – quite the opposite, actually; my own garden is home to several, including a few trees in pots (an apple and an olive, to be precise), a pear tree planted in the ground, and a glorious magnolia that steals the show every spring. (It's the tree everyone comments on when they visit, and I can't pretend I'm not a little smug about it).

But years of writing about gardening, speaking to arborists and landscape designers, living with an RHS-trained gardener (handy!), and learning from my own mistakes have also taught me that not every beautiful tree belongs in every garden...

The five trees I'd never plant in my own garden

So, which are the five trees I'd never plant in my garden? Well, a caveat first: none of these are "bad" trees. In the right setting, each one has plenty to recommend it. Some become far larger than most people expect, while others create maintenance headaches that simply aren't worth the effort in my opinion (although I'd happily admire from afar!).

With that in mind, then, here are the five trees I'd never plant in my own backyard – and the three I'd recommend instead.

1. Sumac

Top of my list of trees I'd never plant in my garden is sumac, even though I completely understand the appeal. The fiery autumn foliage is breathtaking, and those upright, velvety seed heads add interest well into winter.

My issue is what's happening underground. Sumacs spread by suckers (rhizomes), sending up new shoots several feet away from the main trunk. If the roots are disturbed – or the tree becomes stressed – those suckers can appear all over the garden.

In a large landscape, that's not necessarily a problem. In my garden, though, I'd rather not spend years digging out unwanted shoots from borders and lawns. So sue me.

2. Leylandii

The UK's most infamous hedge plant has earned its bad reputation for a reason, so you'd best believe it's on my list of trees I'd never plant!

Leylandii grows incredibly quickly, which sounds like a bonus until you realise you're signing yourself up for constant pruning just to keep it under control. Miss a season or two and it can quickly tower over fences and neighbouring gardens.

Even with my own live-in gardener, it's more maintenance than I'd ever want to commit to, so it's firmly on my "no thanks" list.

3. Conifer

Controversial? Maybe! However, while some conifers are stunning specimen trees, they're simply too dominant for the average garden.

Many create dense shade that makes it difficult for anything else to thrive beneath them, while their thirsty root systems compete with neighbouring plants for water and nutrients.

I much prefer trees that coexist happily with the rest of the planting rather than becoming the only thing that can grow in one corner of the garden.

4. White willow

Willows are, as a rule, very thirsty trees, so they don't tend to do well near houses as the best of times. Still, I don't dislike white willow itself; I just hate the fluff.

My neighbours have one, and every year when it goes to seed, it feels like we're living inside a snow globe. The fluffy seeds drift everywhere, float through open windows and somehow end up absolutely everywhere in the garden.

It's beautiful from a distance, but after breathing in enough willow fluff over the years, I know it's not a tree I'd choose to bring any closer to home.

5. Plum tree

The last on my list of trees I'd never plant in my garden might surprise people because I absolutely love homegrown fruit.

The problem is that I rarely seem to get to enjoy much of the harvest. Birds and other wildlife always used to beat me to the ripest plums when I lived in a rented house with a glorious plum tree in the garden, and any fruit that fell to the ground quickly turned into a mushy mess.

For me, it's a lot of anticipation for a fairly small reward. (And I may or may not have a friend with a plum who constantly messages me about pigeons divebombing the fruit, so that may also be a reason I wish to avoid it. Who can say for sure?).

The three trees I'd happily plant instead

Try not to let me be the oracle of all your tree-based decisions; as I said already, I don't think there's such a thing as a universally "bad" tree – only trees that are better suited to certain gardens than others.

The trick is choosing one that fits both your space and the amount of maintenance you're realistically willing to take on. For me, that means prioritising trees that offer year-round beauty without becoming a constant job, because I want to spend more time enjoying my garden than managing it.

If you have the time and are inclined to put the work in, though? That's a perfectly valid choice! I'll be sure to raise a glass to you from my hammock as you prune...

Have you ever collected seed from your plants? It's a lovely thing to do and naturally means you then have seeds ready for next year that won't cost a thing. August is the best month for this as flowering is sadly coming to an end.

There are five key plants we believe are best for collecting seed from; we talk to our experts about why and how to store the seed so it lasts until you need to sow them.

1. Poppies

We all love poppies with their colourful heads that bob in the breeze. They are a great first variety to try.

Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director at LBS Horticulture, explains how to harvest them: 'Wait until the pods have turned fully brown and feel hard, then gently shake the stem of the plant, and if the seeds are ready you should hear them rattling inside the pod. Cut the dried flower heads, leaving a few inches of the stem attached, ensuring that you keep the pod upright so that you do not lose any seeds. Hold each dried pod upside down over a paper bag, and tap the pod gently. Spread the collected seeds out on a piece of paper for a few days to remove leftover moisture, and then store them in a paper envelope.'

'Flowers such as poppies can even be scattered straight back into borders now, allowing them to naturally establish for next season,' says Noah Mabey, senior gardener at Thornbridge Hall and horticultural advisor at Platinum Spas.

For the traditional red poppy look at Crocus's Beauty of Livermore, it's an oriental poppy with a large pillar box red head, £9.99 for a 9cm pot. If you'd like more colour variety, check out the poppy oriental collection at Dobies. You get Beauty of Livermore plus Royal Wedding, Victoria Louise and Queen Alexandra, each as single bare root plants, £14.99.

2. Sweet peas

Sweet peas are definitely worth collecting seed from, especially if it's been a particularly hard year – like this year with the heat and they've still flowered – it means they are tougher.

'The main rule with sweet peas is that they should be left to dry naturally on the plant before the pods are harvested,' advises Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

Richard agrees, 'On a dry day, collect and remove the seeds from their pods. Crack the pods open to remove the seeds, and discard any mouldy, soft or green seeds. The seeds can then be placed inside a paper envelope or small paper bag and stored in a cool, dry place until they are ready to plant.'

You can still buy sweet pea plants currently; Amazon's dwarf sweet pea Snoopea set of three is £12.99, and you get mixed colours for a vibrant display.

B&Q have 25 assorted sweet pea seeds for £1.70 to get you started over autumn; you can sow them for early flowers and then collect the seed after they've flowered and learn how to germinate them.

3. Nigella (cannot find this on here but can't believe it's not so getty 1295951603)

For a quintessential country garden, Nigella is your go-to with its ruffly appearance and blue flowers – though it comes in white and pink too!

'Cottage‑garden favourites are particularly generous now. Nigella produces delicate pods that turn papery and brown with lots of tiny black seeds,' says Julian.

So how do you get the seeds from this popular variety? 'When the pods have turned a pale brown colour, they can be cut off the stems and placed inside a paper bag,' advises Richard. 'Shake the bag containing the pods to remove the seeds, and pour the contents of the bag through a sieve to separate the seeds from the chaff. Any collected seeds should be left to air dry for roughly a week, and they can be stored in an airtight container in a cool, dry place.'

You can buy the classic sky blue variety Miss Jekyll from Crocus, currently £1.79 for approximately 500 seeds. Or, if you prefer a mix of colours like mauve, lavender, purple, rose and blue, have a peek at Persian Jewels; you can buy 600 seeds for £3.99, Thompson & Morgan.

4. Foxgloves

Another fabulous variety for a country cottage garden, the foxglove is a striking addition with its spires of beautiful flowers in lovely colours. Easy to grow and coming in different heights, they are a great option for seed collection.

'Producing millions of minuscule dark brown seeds per plant, you can start harvesting foxglove seeds from August all the way through to November,' says Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation. 'Carefully snip off the spike of seed pods as the seeds will be easily released by shaking. Once you have them over a sheet of paper, shaking the spike will release seeds from the pods. Leave for a few days to make sure they are completely dry, and they are then ready to store until it's time to sow.'

Gardening Express currently have Suttons Apricot for £5.99 in a one-litre pot; it's a lovely shade of orange and pink and can grow up to 1.5 metres tall. If a single colour isn't your bag, then check out Thompson & Morgan's Dalmatian mixed, from £7.99, in a range of pinks and purples.

5. Snapdragons

Snapdragons are another great option for creating height in your borders, and they are fabulous self-seeders.

'They can produce hundreds of tiny seeds in their seed pods,' says Lucie. 'Once you get towards the end of the flowering season, leave some flowers to fade, and the plants will produce seed pods. Rather than leaving these to self-seed, you can start harvesting the light brown, dry seedheads from late August into October. You can collect the distinct, skull-shaped seed pods into a paper bag, and simply tapping the dry heads will release the seeds ready for storage.'

Invest in some snapdragons that you love for seed collecting; we like Rembrandt for its coral, pink and butter yellow colours, £5.99 for a one-litre pot, Gardening Express.

This rich purple Shiryu Kiss has been voted the Peter Seabrook best new plant award at BBC Gardeners World Live 2026. It's the first perennial snapdragon in the world, and you can buy it for £12.99 for one 9cm potted plant, Thompson & Morgan.

Shopping essentials for seed collecting

'Once collected, the key is proper storage,' says Julian. 'Paper envelopes are ideal because they allow seeds to breathe and prevent moisture build‑up. Label everything clearly and keep your collection somewhere cool, dark and dry until sowing time returns.'

If your tomato plants look anything like mine do right now, they’re probably in need of a lot of TLC. Thankfully, there’s still hope for your hard-grown toms – and there are a few expert-approved ways to revive your tomato plants.

Growing your own tomatoes takes a bit of work if you want to keep them happily producing fruit, but what if your plants are looking worn and wilted? It’s easy to consider them write-offs, especially when we’re nearing the end of summer – but there might be more life in them than you think.

Of course, you’ll need to learn how to revive tomato plants if you want them to bounce back. Here’s how to do it.

1. Check your watering schedule

First things first, you’ll need to make sure you’re watering your tomato plants properly. Over- or under-watering are among the most common tomato mistakes, and incorrect watering really can deal your plants a lot of damage.

‘Tomatoes need consistent moisture, particularly in warm weather,’ says Ross Dyke, horticulturist, founder of Get Children Growing, and host of The Plant Pod. ‘Water deeply when the compost or soil starts to dry, ideally at the base of the plant rather than over the leaves. Avoid repeatedly letting it become bone dry and then soaking it, this will only stress the plant out.’

Since hosepipe bans are in place across many parts of the country, it’s wise to invest in a sturdy watering can like the 10L Ward Watering Can from Argos, which you can fill up directly from an outside tap.

Just don’t let your soil sit soggy, since that can damage the plant’s health as much as underwatering can.

2. Remove dead or damaged leaves

One of my tomato plants is covered in dead leaves (the heat has certainly gotten the better of it). According to experts, it’s best to get rid of them as soon as you can if you want to revive them.

‘Whilst your tomato plants are trying to cope by dropping their lower leaves, you can help them by cutting away the yellowing leaves, as they will not recover,’ says Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation.

‘By removing them, you are allowing the plant to direct its energy into growth elsewhere and fruit production.’

You should always use a clean, sharp pair of snips like these Kent & Stowe Garden Life Snips from B&Q to trim your tomato plants.

Of course, there are lots of other reasons a tomato plant’s leaves can turn yellow – so it’s best to address those at the source to help your plant recover.

3. Prioritise existing fruit

My plants are a bit of a contradiction to look at – they’re half-dead, but peppered with ripe and growing tomatoes. According to Ross, you should aim to prioritise those fruits when you’re reviving your tomato plants this month.

‘Later in the season, the aim isn't necessarily to produce lots of new growth,’ he explains. ‘Concentrate the plant's energy on ripening the tomatoes that are already developing or ripening.’

If you’re lucky, you’ll still get a fair few more harvests out of your plants before the end of the growing season.

4. Feed them

Feeding is a crucial part of growing your own tomatoes, because it gives your plants the nutrients they need to produce lots of delicious harvests. Levington Tomorite, which you can order from Amazon, is probably the most popular tomato fertiliser, but there are plenty of other alternatives that encourage heavy crops.

‘To give my tomato plants an extra head start, I prefer to feed them with Envii’s Maximato,’ says Ross. ‘It's a fantastic feed in my opinion, and it's specifically for tomatoes. I find it works wonders for mine.

‘It's high in potassium and promotes flowering and fruiting, and is known to help with blossom-end rot. It is important to have a feeding schedule – mine is every 7-10 days, and I also use it for my cucumbers and peppers.’

There are lots of other plants you can use Tomorite on, too – so if you've got leftovers in the shed, you might have other plants that'll benefit from it!

Follow these tips to help your tomato plants recover from this summer's heatwaves.

I have a bit of a houseplant problem. I love filling my home with greenery, but I'm also guilty of choosing where plants live based on where they look best rather than where they'll necessarily be happiest.

And a couple of my houseplants are now making that very obvious. Instead of the full, leafy plants they once were, they've developed long stems, increasingly large gaps between leaves and in some cases a definite lean towards the nearest window. In other words, they become leggy.

Thankfully, I've discovered that leggy growth doesn't mean a houseplant is beyond saving. In fact, the experts I spoke to all agreed that the solution is relatively simple. Improve light, prune it back and rather than throwing those cuttings away, use them to make new houseplants for free.

So I've taken their advice and given my leggier houseplants some much-needed attention.

Why do houseplants become leggy?

If your houseplant has suddenly developed long, bare stems and large gaps between its leaves, the most likely explanation is that it needs more light.

'When plants have insufficient light, they stretch themselves towards it, which is what causes them to appear leggy over time,' explains Chris Bonnett, founder of GardeningExpress.co.uk. 'The good news is there are certain things you can do to help the condition of your houseplant if this happens.'

Jo Lambell, founder of Beards & Daisies, agrees. 'Leggy growth is usually a sign that your houseplant isn't getting enough light. When a plant starts stretching towards a light source, you'll notice longer stems, larger gaps between the leaves and growth that looks a little sparse. The good news is that it's very fixable.'

And apparently late summer can make the problem particularly obvious.

'Most leggy houseplants are simply crying out for more light,' says Andy Little, Houseplant buyer at British Garden Centres. 'They stretch towards the window, stems get long and bare, leaves shrink, and the whole thing looks tired by late summer.'

That pretty much sums up what I'm seeing with mine right now. Here's what the experts say to do to fix them and keep them healthy.

What you'll need

Fortunately this isn't a houseplant job that requires investing in lots of new kit.

'A clean pair of scissors or secateurs, a glass or propagation vessel and some suitable soil and pots are enough to get started,' says Jo.

While houseplant feed can be useful later, resist the temptation to throw lots of fertiliser at a struggling plant in the hope that it will suddenly become bushier.

'A basic houseplant feed (I rate Miracle-Gro's Pump & Feed from Amazon) is useful once the new plants are established, but hold off on heavy feeding until growing strongly,' Andy advises.

1. Move houseplants somewhere brighter

Before I got the secateurs out, Chris advised moving your leggy houseplants to a better location that provides them with the right amount of light.

This doesn't mean automatically placing every struggling plant on your sunniest windowsill. Different plants have different light requirements, and suddenly exposing a houseplant to strong direct sunshine could result in scorched leaves.

Andy recommends making the transition gradually. 'Start by moving the plant into a brighter spot over a week or so. An east or west-facing windowsill suits most foliage plants, while cacti and other sun lovers prefer south-facing.'

For many common houseplants, Jo suggests aiming for 'plenty of bright, indirect light.' She explains, 'You want to give it enough light to encourage compact, healthy growth without putting it somewhere that could scorch the leaves.'

2. Don't be afraid to prune it properly

This is the part I was a little nervous about. Cutting off a substantial chunk of a plant that I've spent months (and in some cases, years) growing feels wrong. But pruning is exactly what the experts say is needed if you want to encourage fuller growth.

'Use clean, sharp secateurs to cut just above a leaf node to help encourage fresh, healthy growth lower down,' says Chris. 'As a general rule of thumb, only prune around a third or less of the plant; any more, and you may be putting the plant under unnecessary stress.'

A node is the point on the stem where a leaf joins, or new growth can emerge, so it's important to make your cut in the right place.

And while Chris advises against going overboard, Andy says you should be too cautious either. 'Don't be timid about it; a light trim just gives you a slightly shorter leggy stem.'

Jo agrees that a decent haircut can ultimately result in a much better-looking plant. 'This encourages the plant to produce new growth from that point, helping it become fuller and bushier over time.'

3. Propagate the cuttings for free housplants

This is the part that has made pruning my plants feel considerably less painful. Rather than putting all those healthy stems into the compost bin, I am using them to grow entirely new houseplants.

'The best bit about pruning a leggy houseplant? You can often turn those cuttings into completely new plants, so nothing needs to go to waste,' says Jo.

And some of the most popular houseplants are particularly easy to propagate this way. Pothos, tradescantia, philodendron and monstera can all be good candidates, while Andy also recommends propagating spider plants.

Start by taking a healthy stem cutting just below a node and removing the lower leaves, leaving a few leaves towards the top. You then have two options. Andy suggests either putting the cutting into water or planting it into 'a small pot with 50:50 mix of peat-free multi-purpose compost (Miracle-Gro from Amazon is a no-brainer) and perlite (Westland's Gro-Sure perlite from Amazon is a bestseller).'

I'm trying the water method with mine, partly because I like being able to see when the roots start appearing.

'Just put the cutting in water so the node is submerged, but the leaves aren't and place it somewhere warm with bright light,' advises Chris. 'Change the water regularly and wait for roots to develop before potting it into houseplant compost.'

Don't rush to transfer it into compost as soon as you spot the first tiny root, either. Chris recommends waiting until the roots are at least a few centimetres long so they're established enough to adapt to their new environment, while Andy suggests water-rooted cuttings ready to pot up when the roots reach a couple of inches long.

4. Use the new plants to make the original look fuller

I was thinking of just putting every rooted cutting into its own pot and rapidly multiplying my houseplant collection, but I'm actually running out of space to put them all, as I have quite the collection already. But the experts let me into another trick I'm particularly keen to try.

Once the cuttings have developed a good root system, you can plant several of them back into the original pot. For plants such as pothos and philodendrons, this can help fill in a sparse base and create a much bushier-looking plant.

If you're rooting your cuttings directly into compost instead, Andy recommends keeping the compost 'moist but not soggy' and positioning the pots somewhere bright but out of direct sunlight.

Once the new plants are growing strongly, pinching out the growing tips can encourage them to branch rather than immediately becoming long and leggy again.

5. Rotate your plant regularly

Improving light isn't just about finding a better position. Because houseplants naturally grow towards their light source, plant positioned beside a window can gradually become lopsided as all the growth heads in the same direction.

'Once pruned, rotate the plant regularly to encourage even more growth,' recommends Chris. I'm aiming to give mine a small turn every week or two.

Houseplant care essentials

The biggest takeaway is that I need to stop prioritising where my houseplants look nicest over where they will actually thrive. I've moved my leggy plants somewhere brighter, given them a good prune and put the healthiest cuttings into water. And if it all goes to plan, they'll eventually look fuller. Plus, I'll have a few free houseplants to show for it too.

Although this will take a while, it's worth it, explains Jo. 'Propagation isn't an overnight process, so give your cuttings plenty of bright, indirect light and keep an eye on them.'

And she adds that 'once established, regular pruning can also help keep plants looking fuller and prevent them from becoming leggy again.'

Wondering what to do with jasmine in August? It's a crucial month in the climber's calendar, because it'll either be pumping out blooms or winding down for the season.

Learning how to grow jasmine is incredibly rewarding, because the fragrant flowers put on a real show during the summer months. If you want to keep your plant healthy, tidy it up, and have it bounce back next year, a few simple care tasks can go a long way at this time of the year.

Here's what to do with jasmine in August to help your plant perform its best for the remainder of summer (and for summers to come!).

What you'll need

1. Deadhead

There are plenty of plants you should deadhead in August to keep them flowering, and if your jasmine is still blooming this month, it’s worth keeping on top of that, too.

‘August is generally about keeping jasmine healthy and flowering well, rather than doing anything too drastic,’ says Andrew Jackson, award-winning garden writer, designer and creator of The New Build Manifesto. ‘For summer flowering jasmine, I’d keep deadheading where practical and remove any obviously dead, damaged or wayward growth.’

You can either use your fingers or, to make things smoother, a pair of garden snips like these Spear & Jackson Garden Snips from Amazon.

If your plant is beginning to finish flowering, you can take a slightly harder approach...

2. Prune lightly

This one depends on whether or not your plant’s flowering period is coming to an end. If it is, you can prune your jasmine in August - but only lightly.

‘Once flowering begins to finish, you can prune summer jasmine to keep it in shape, cutting back flowered shoots to a strong side shoot lower down,’ says Andrew. ‘Avoid very hard pruning at this point unless the plant really needs renovating.’

You’ll need a pair of quality bypass secateurs for the job, since they’re best suited to cutting green stems without damaging them. If you’re after a budget-friendly pair that work really well, go for the Spear & Jackson Razorsharp Advantage Bypass Secateurs from Amazon - but I also had a whale of a time using the Niwaki Sentei Secateurs to prune my jasmine plant (they cut through stems like butter!).

3. Tie in shoots

You don’t always need to prune a jasmine plant that’s put on a lot of new growth by August. Sometimes, it’s more about training the new shoots into a wider framework.

‘If it’s starting to outgrow its space, you can tie new shoots into their support rather than immediately reaching for the secateurs,’ says Andrew.

Learning how to train climbing plants is easier than it sounds. You’ll just need some garden twine or similar, like this tenn well 100m green garden wire from Amazon (there's a cutter on the reel to make things even easier), as well as a support frame like a trellis or wires.

4. Look out for pests

Many garden plant pests tend to be drawn out of hiding by hot weather, and your jasmine plant could fall victim to a few critters in particular.

‘Look out particularly for aphids, scale insects, and spider mites, especially during hot, dry weather that we have been experiencing,’ says Ross Dyke, horticulturist, founder of Get Children Growing, and host of The Plant Pod.

‘These can usually be treated by adding some ladybirds on to the plant, because they will enjoy the free meal. If you can't do this, you can use pesticides, but I would always try the organic route first.

Companion planting ideas are a fantastic way to attract ladybirds to your garden (they love marigolds!).

5. Water consistently

Watering is also an important care task for jasmine in August. Although it's a fairly drought-tolerant plant once settled, it still needs consistent hydration in hot weather.

‘An established jasmine growing in the ground should be relatively resilient, but during prolonged hot or dry weather it will benefit from a really thorough soak, perhaps once or twice a week, rather than a little water every day,’ says Andrew. ‘Deep watering encourages the roots to travel further into the soil and makes the plant more resilient.’

Container-grown jasmine, on the other hand, needs a slightly more attentive approach. Andrew says pots can dry out really quickly, so it’s best to check the compost with your finger, watering when the top few centimetres feel dry.

‘In very hot weather, that could mean watering daily,’ he explains. ‘Water thoroughly until you see water coming through the drainage holes, ideally in the morning or evening, rather than simply wetting the surface.’

New jasmine plants need to be watered even more.

'For my newly planted jasmine, I usually give them 5 litres of water daily for the first four days, especially in hot dry weather,' says Ross.

6. Mulch

Mulching is the gold standard for a healthy garden, and a simple layer of mulch around the base of your jasmine plant can keep the entire thing healthier, weed-free and better hydrated.

'Jasmine likes its roots relatively cool, so a layer of organic mulch can be useful during a hot, dry August, particularly if it’s planted against a sunny wall,' explains Andrew.

There are lots of different types of mulch, but RocketGro Organic Magic Mulch (which you can buy from Amazon) is a long-standing favourite among reviewers.

Knowing what to do with jasmine in August can make a huge difference to your plant's health and performance.

Hanging baskets are a fabulous way of adding a splash of summer colour to gardens, doorways and porches with their cheery blooms and cascading greenery.

But if yours are a casualty of the hot summer weather and are flagging in the current heatwave, you’ll be wondering if there is anything you can be doing right now to revive tired hanging baskets in the height of summer so you can enjoy their colourful blooms for longer.

‘Hot summer weather can quickly leave hanging baskets looking tired, but in most cases they can be brought back to life with a little care,’ says Chris Bonnet, plant expert and founder of online garden centre Gardening Express. ‘Even simple things like moving your basket into a shadier spot just for a few days can make a real difference.’

Find out more ways to give your hanging baskets a boost, with our expert top tips.

1. Move to a shadier spot

‘If your hanging baskets are positioned in full sun or a south-facing garden and drying out by lunchtime, move them into a slightly shadier position if you can,’ advises Julian Palphramand, Head of Plants at British Garden Centres.

‘Moving your basket or plants into a shadier spot, even just for a few days, can make a real difference,’ agrees Chris. ‘Giving it a breather somewhere with partial sunlight or afternoon shade allows it to recover without the added pressure of scorching heat. Then once it's perked back up and producing healthy new growth, you can gradually move it back into a sunnier spot - just remember to keep an eye on watering as it readjusts.’

2. Refresh the compost

‘If the compost has shrunk away from the sides of the basket or looks bone dry even after watering (a sign that only the top is getting watered), then it is advisable to soak the entire basket in a bucket of water for around 20 minutes to fully rehydrate the compost before hanging it back up,’ suggests Chris. ‘It's also worth feeding your basket with a liquid plant food, like this Eazifeed Feed for Hanging Baskets & Tubs, £4.99 for 500ml, Amazon, every week or two, as all that watering washes nutrients out pretty quickly.’

‘A light liquid feed can help revive baskets, but only once the compost has been rehydrated,’ agrees Julian. ‘Feeding dry baskets is a waste of time and can even make things worse. If your baskets have gone beyond saving, it may be better to cut your losses, refresh the display and start again with something tougher for the rest of summer.’

Adding a moisture control gel to hanging baskets, such as Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Watering Storing Gel, £5 at B&Q, is always worth doing as it will help retain moisture and keep hanging baskets hydrated for longer. Do this at the planting up a hanging basket stage if you can.

Shop for hanging basket compost

3. Remove faded flowers and re-shape greenery

Deadheading the flowers in your hanging baskets throughout summer is a must in order to keep them flowering, but trimming them back more thoroughly in later summer will help give them an extra boost.

‘If your hanging baskets are flagging, start by trimming off any dead growth and removing anything that’s finished, because old flowers and straggly stems will only make them look more exhausted,’ advises Julian.

‘Removing dead blooms and trimming back any leggy or dried-out stems will encourage the plant to put its energy into producing fresh blooms, rather than wasting it trying to keep dying growth alive,’ adds Chris.

And if any dead plants can’t be salvaged, simply remove these and tuck in a few new plants, such as bedding or trailing plants, to freshen up the basket, adding in a little fresh compost around the plants.

4. Water thoroughly... don’t rely on just a light sprinkle

‘A common watering mistake people make is giving baskets a light sprinkle of water, which often doesn't reach the roots,’ says Chris. ‘Instead, try to deep water thoroughly until the water runs from the bottom of the basket.’

‘If your basket feels noticeably light when lifted, it probably means it needs watering,’ says David Denyer, florist and gardening expert at Eflorist. ‘A great way of working out if watering is required is to stick your finger 2–3 cm into the compost. If it feels dry at that depth, water it.'

‘You’ll want to water early in the morning thoroughly, check again in late afternoon/evening on really hot days and make sure to water until it runs from the bottom of the basket. As a guide for how often to water hanging baskets, when the temperature reaches between 18–22°C you’ll want to water them every 1-2 days, 18–22°C, daily and 28°C+, morning and evening,’ adds David.

‘However, the actual temperature matters less than the combination of sun exposure, wind, basket size and plant density. For instance, a 21°C breezy sunny day can dry out baskets faster than a still 25°C day.’

5. And take care not to overwater

‘You can certainly overwater a hanging basket too,’ says David. ‘It tends to happen most when the basket has poor drainage, for instance, if the liners are blocking drainage holes, or you water heavily when the compost is already saturated.’

‘There are some signs you can look for to see if you have overwatered your hanging baskets. Look out for yellowing leaves, limp stems despite wet compost, mould or algae on soil, a sour smell or root rot.’

‘The key to not overwatering is to soak fully and let excess drain away, but don’t keep compost permanently waterlogged,' adds David.

6. Adapt planting with hot-weather varieties

‘Not all hanging basket plants struggle in warm temperatures,’ adds David. ‘In fact, some of the best-performing varieties originate from regions where hot and dry weather is the norm, such as Mediterranean garden plants.’

‘Hanging baskets are exposed to sun and wind from every direction, meaning their compost dries out more quickly than garden soil. So choosing plants that are naturally drought-tolerant and have adapted to intense sunshine will keep your baskets looking their best all summer long.’

‘Some great options for hanging baskets that will cope well within the summer heat include:

Portulaca - native to hot, arid regions and boasting succulent-like leaves that store water, varieties like these Portulaca grandiflora plants, £3.99 at Gardening Express, can cope well during dry spells of heat when other traditional bedding plants could wilt.

Petunia - as long as they are regularly watered and fed every week or two with liquid fertiliser, modern varieties of petunias, like these Petunia Frenzy Mixed Mini Plug Plants, £14.99 at Amazon, have adapted to cope exceptionally well with hot summers.

Geraniums - they remain a dependable choice for summer hanging baskets, as they actually prefer drying out slightly between waterings and continue to bloom during prolonged periods of hot weather. Try these Geranium zonale Salmon, £11.99 at Gardening Express.

Verbena - an excellent choice for sunny hanging baskets and another plant that has naturally adapted to short periods of drought and warm, dry conditions. Try these Verbena bonariensis purple tops, from £7.99 at Crocus.

Lantana - boasting a vigorous root system that efficiently makes use of the available moisture, varieties like this Lantana camara 'Dallas Red', from £19.99, Suttons, are impressively drought-tolerant,' suggests David.

Do you have summer hanging baskets? How are they faring right now?

On a day trip from Vienna to Bratislava last week, I found myself drawn to one low-maintenance hedge in particular – and despite the hot weather, it was thriving.

The formal Baroque gardens by Bratislava Castle were a sight to behold, but it was the hedging that caught my eye in particular. Up close, I recognised it as a kind of Acer – field maple, or Acer campestre, to be exact. We’ve celebrated it before as one of the best trees for small gardens, but its value as a hedge just isn't spoken about enough.

It’s convinced me that field maple is one of the best low-maintenance hedges you can grow – and not just in summer, either. Here’s why.

Field maples can be grown as trees or hedges (you can buy bare-root and pot-grown field maple from Thompson & Morgan), and the ones I saw in Bratislava Castle’s gardens were beautifully clipped into formal hedging. What really struck me was how healthy they looked despite the scorching heat – and according to experts, that’s partly because they’re drought-tolerant once established.

'Field maple is one of the most forgiving hedges you can plant,' says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. 'It’s a British native that puts up with almost any soil, from heavy clay to chalk and poorer, sandy sites, and once it’s settled in, it’s drought-tolerant, often coping better in dry spells.'

It’ll just need a little extra TLC while it settles into your garden.

‘Young or newly planted field maple will need consistent moisture to build roots, but mature plants are capable of withstanding dry weather and are fairly drought-tolerant,’ says Richard Barker, horticultural expert at LBS Horticulture.

After that, field maple really is one of the lowest-maintenance hedges you can grow – even more so than other fast-growing hedges.

‘Field maple makes a great low-maintenance hedge because it grows slower than other hedges like privet, making it less likely to grow out of hand,’ explains Richard. ‘It only requires light pruning to keep its shape, and it can easily bounce back if it is cut back hard.’

And that’s not all – field maple is also a brilliant wildlife garden idea, since it provides a living shelter and food source for insects and animals. Plus, field maples are among the best trees for autumn colour, since they turn a fiery orange before dropping their leaves.

'It makes a dense, wildlife-friendly screen, with spring flowers for pollinators, “helicopter” seeds in late summer and a clear golden flush in autumn,' says Julian.

Field maple planting kit

Are you sold? The best time to plant field maple is during its dormant season (November to March) if you’ve bought a bare-root plant, but container-grown hedges can be planted all year round. You’ll just need to avoid any extreme weather, like heatwaves, drought and hard frosts.

We have a month or so until the summer ends and the shift begins, and it's easy to feel a little downhearted about all of the stunning colours that summer can bring.

So now is the ideal time to look at what can still give you beautiful colour during this transitional period.

We asked our experts what they would have in their gardens to give them effortless colour from August to autumn. There are some wonderful varieties to choose from, including autumn perennials – which will you pick?

1. Japanese anemone

This is a variety that's not mentioned as much as it should be. It's fast-growing and can get quite tall, so if you want something that will cover well, this is your go-to; it's also loved by pollinating insects.

'The blooms of Japanese anemone can begin to open in August, and can last up until October,' says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director at LBS Horticulture. 'As flowers fade, cut them off at the leaf joint to stop the plant from going to seed and trigger the production of new flower buds.

Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres agrees, 'For reliable colour that carries you from August into autumn, Japanese anemones are hard to beat. They have that slightly loose, romantic habit that works well at the back or middle of a border, and they’ll keep flowering for weeks if they’re happy.'

There are a couple of really beautiful varieties to consider. Robustissima has pretty pink flowers and will grow up to 90cm and 60cm in width, from £12.99 at Thompson & Morgan. If you're more of a purist, then consider Honorine Jobert with its crisp white flowers; grow it up alongside a wall for maximum effect, from £13.99 at Crocus.

2. Dahlias

'Whilst dahlias are not necessarily classed as low-maintenance, they are seen as ‘high-reward’ plants where a single tuber will produce masses of vibrant blooms over a long period, which enables them to add glorious colour through August, September and October when many summer flowers have finished,' explains Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation.

Keep your dahlias going as long as possible with these top tips from Richard: 'To encourage the plant to flower for longer, cut away old, fading flowers so that it focuses its energy on producing more flowers instead of going to seed. Ensuring that plants receive six hours of full sun per day and watering during hot, dry weather also helps the plant to flower for longer.'

One of the most popular dahlia varieties is Café au Lait with its dinner plate head; the colour is more subtle, but the size will add impact, currently on offer for £12.99 for a 5-litre container, Gardening Express.

For a vibrant burst of colour, look at Purple Fox; its bright magenta pompoms will brighten up your garden, from £9.99, Thompson & Morgan.

3. Perennial asters

With their super pretty daisy-like look, perennial asters come in pink, blue, white and purple and will add a lovely display of colour.

'They can begin to flower in mid to late August, and continue deep into autumn,' says Richard. 'With each plant blooming for an average of four to eight weeks, the overall display lasts longer depending on the type planted.'

Richard advises deadheading regularly as this will keep the plant producing more flowers. 'Staggering pruning can delay flowers on certain stems to make the plant bushier and extend the flowering display too.'

Snow Cushion is a compact perennial aster that has pretty white flowers, £7.99 for a 1 litre container from Gardening Express. For more of an impact and a mixed colour look, check out Thompson & Morgan's Alpinus mixed, £19.99 for a 1 litre pot.

4. Salvias

Salvia is part of the mint family and comes in quite a variety of colours. It's great for patios or if you want to create a country cottage look – pollinators love them too.

Richard advises, 'Salvias can produce colourful flowers in August, and if trimmed or deadheaded, they can produce more flowers up until October. If salvias start to become leggy or slow down around mid-summer, cut a third of the growth to trigger another flush of flowers that can last almost up until winter.' After this flush, give your salvias a good prune before winter.

Give your garden a fiery look with the bright orange/scarlet colour from the Royal Bumble variety, 1 litre pot from Suttons for £24.99. For an almost neon pink, have a look at Rose Pink Marvel, currently £9.97, from Gardening Express.

5. Sedum

Sedum is part of the succulent group and is hardy and easy to grow. They're also a great drought-safe option with colours ranging from mid pink, green, blues, burgundy, white and autumnal shades.

What's interesting about sedum is that it changes colour with the season, so it might be light green or pink initially, then change to deep shades as autumn hits. It's a good option for ground cover, so use it in borders and rock gardens.

J.Parkers Autumn Joy, £3.99 for one first-grade loose root, has star-shaped flowers in a greenish pink that changes to raspberry pink and ends in a rich golden bronze.

For a multicoloured look, Gardening Express have a pack of five plants in their succulent sedum collection, currently £19.99.

6. Rudbeckia

'Rudbeckia produce daisy-like blooms that can last from August until October, or until the cold weather begins to kill off the flowers,' says Richard.

Also known as 'Black-eyed Susans', this is a striking flower to have in your garden with its droopy leaves, and they are definitely one to consider for your pollinators.

Keep your rudbeckia going as long as possible by cutting off old, dying flowers, as that can trigger the plant to produce new buds. 'It will also have more energy for flowering if it receives a few hours of direct sunlight per day.'

Buy Little Goldstar, currently £7.99 for three from Gardening Express, if you love the bright yellow colour. They're great for pots or mass plant them in your borders.

For a richer, more dramatic touch of colour, look at Cherry Brandy with its dark red petals and purple stamens, from £9.99 at J. Parkers.

7. Chrysanthemums

'Hardy chrysanthemums deserve a mention too, because they can be remarkably useful when you want something that keeps performing without much fuss,' advises Julian.

They love sunny spots, direct light and well-draining soil, and if you pinch growing tips in spring, they'll last well, possibly through until November.

Colour-wise, there's a wide choice; we love Amiko Violet, with its deep mauve blooms that will give your borders and pots a vibrant display, £19.99 for a 1-litre pot, Thompson & Morgan. If you prefer seeds, then Amazon's chrysanthemum Indicum Hortorum might be for you in different colours, £7.95 for 300.

Shopping essentials

Follow our guide to give your garden some lovely colour over the next few months and give your plants some love so they can bloom for you as long as possible.

There are so many plants you should deadhead in August to keep them blooming – and it’s likely that you’re already growing some of them in your garden.

Lots of plants can be cut back in August to encourage bonus flowers, but many annuals and perennials benefit from a lighter approach to keep them blooming through to the autumn months. That’s where deadheading comes into play – it’s a simple gardening technique that involves removing spent flowers to redirect the plant's energy into new flowers.

Here are a few plants to deadhead this August to keep them happily blooming away for the rest of their growing season. This list is by no means exhaustive – many plants benefit from deadheading, unless they’re self-cleaning annuals that don’t strictly need deadheading – but it’ll point you in the direction of the most popular candidates.

What you'll need

1. Sweet peas

Sweet peas are one of the most productive plants you can grow, because they have the potential to produce new flowers every day at the height of their season. By August, deadheading is a crucial sweet pea task.

‘Sweet peas need picking constantly if you want them to keep producing flowers,’ says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. ‘Once they start forming seed pods, the plant begins to wind down, so remove the pods as soon as you see them.’

Sweet peas are so delicate, a simple pair of garden snips like these Kent & Stowe Garden Life Snips from B&Q are perfect for the job.

2. Cosmos

Cosmos are adored for their ability to pump out blooms upon blooms right through the summer months. If you’re lucky, they’ll flower right through to the autumn – and they’re more likely to do that if you keep deadheading your cosmos this August.

‘Summer favourites such as cosmos benefit from regular deadheading and will produce noticeably more flowers as a result,’ says gardening expert Paul Parker from J. Parker’s. ‘Many annuals will also continue flowering well into autumn when spent blooms are removed regularly.’

If you’re looking for garden scissors with a more premium feel, the Niwaki Garden Snips are the best I’ve tried (and they make a wonderful gift!).

3. Repeat-flowering roses

Not all roses need deadheading, but repeat-flowering varieties absolutely do if you want them to keep flowering. With the right care, repeat-flowering roses can flower from spring to early autumn, when the first frosts arrive.

‘August is a good time to go over roses, as many will still have plenty of flowering time left,’ says Julian. ‘With repeat-flowering roses, remove the faded blooms back to an outward-facing bud.’

You can even use a sharp pair of bypass secateurs for the job, like these budget-friendly Spear & Jackson Razorsharp Advantage Bypass Secateurs from Amazon.

4. Dahlias

Dahlias are also prolific bloomers with the right care – and in late summer, deadheading dahlias becomes more important than ever.

‘Dahlias should be checked regularly for spent heads,’ advises Julian. ‘A simple rule with dahlias is that finished flowers tend to point downwards, whereas new buds are rounder and point upwards.’

For thicker stems on larger dinnerplate varieties, it’s wise to use a pair of bypass secateurs to deadhead your dahlias. These WOLF-Garten Bypass Secateurs, which you can buy from Amazon, are some of the best I’ve tried.

5. Petunias

It's also beneficial to deadhead petunias in August, and the technique can even revive tired plants.

‘A quick trim of leggy petunias can bring a tired container back into flower,’ says Julian.

‘When cutting old flowers, make the cut just above a strong leaf joint or side shoot,’ adds Paul from J. Parker’s. ‘This signals to the plant where to direct its energy, producing an abundance of fresh buds.’

Deadhead these plants in August to keep them flowering for the rest of the season.

Summer can’t last forever, but your blooming garden can, as experts have revealed six flowers to plant in August for a burst of autumn colour this year.

If you’ve been wondering what to plant in August, you really should consider these beautiful, fast-growing flowers if you want your garden to be filled with colour for the new season, rather than patchy and bare.

Autumn is typically quite mild in the UK, and these fast-growing plants and perennials you can plant in August for autumn colour offer plenty more opportunity to enjoy your garden for longer.

1. Penstemons

Penstemons are a great alternative to foxgloves if you have kids and pets (they can be toxic), and with a flowering period from summer into autumn, are excellent for adding colour to sparse borders.

Add pot-grown Penstemons to your garden in August, and these semi-evergreen perennials are likely to already be in bud and will quickly establish to provide virtually instant colour all the way through into October,’ says Lucie Bradley, gardens and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation.

‘I particularly like ‘Pensham Just Jayne’ for its height of 90cm and its rose-pink blooms with magenta throats, perfect for adding colour in the middle of back-of-garden borders.’

Where to buy penstemons

• Penstemon 'Arabesque Apple Blossom', £7.99, Gardening Express
• Penstemon 'Pensham Just Jayne', £19.99, Thompson & Morgan
• Penstemon 'Pensham Wedding Day', £6.99, Thompson & Morgan

2. Sweet alyssum

Perfect for adding bursts of last-minute colour to your autumn garden, sweet alyssum also makes a beautiful flower pairing with petunias for a showy, structured display. Why am I telling you this? Petunias also flower in autumn.

‘Alyssum is particularly useful because it is quick to germinate and doesn’t need much space. Scatter seeds thinly across pots or the front of a sunny border and you can create low cushions of tiny flowers,’ says Andrew Jackson, an award-winning garden writer and founder of The New Build Manifesto.

‘It is a lovely gap filler and particularly effective around the base of larger container plants. The flowers are small, but collectively they create a surprisingly effective display and are useful to late-flying pollinators too.

Where to buy sweet alyssum:

• Alyssum 'Carpet Of Snow' - Seeds, £3.49, Thompson & Morgan
• Verve Snow Cloth Allyssum Seeds, £2.50, B&Q
• Mr Fothergill's Snow Cloth Alyssum Flower Seeds, £2, B&Q

3. Asters

Not only are asters one of the best autumn-flowering perennials, but they’re also fabulous for attracting birds and pollinators to your garden, too. This is ideal for garden wildlife, as food is not as bountiful in the cooler months as it is in spring and summer.

‘Add pot-grown Asters into your garden now, and you will be able to enjoy their vibrant blooms all the way through to the end of October, early November depending on the weather,’ says Lucie.

‘My favourite varieties of aster include ‘King George’, which produces glorious flowerheads up to 6cm wide of rich purple-blue and golden yellow centres, whilst ‘White Ladies’ makes its perfect companion if you plant this taller aster behind it, which can reach up to 90cm in height to provide a backdrop of crisp white flowers with similar gold coloured centres.'

Where to buy asters:

• Aster alpinus Mixed, £19.99, Thompson & Morgan
• Symphyotrichum 'Little Carlow', £9.99, Crocus
• Aster × frikartii 'Mönch', £8.99, Crocus

4. Calendula

Calendula is a self-seeding cottage plant that returns every year, making it an ideal choice if you want autumn colour year on year. It loves full sun and can do well in poor soil, making it a great choice for beginner gardeners, too.

‘Calendula is probably my first choice for a late sowing. It germinates quickly, grows enthusiastically and, given a reasonably warm September, can produce cheerful orange and yellow flowers surprisingly quickly,’ says Andrew

‘Sow directly into a sunny border or into pots, keep the compost moist while the seedlings establish, and thin them if they become crowded. They are wonderfully unfussy plants.’

Where to buy calendula:

• Mr Fothergill's Art Shades Calendula Flower Seeds, £3, B&Q
• Calendula 'Kinglet Mix' - Seeds, £2.79, Suttons
• Calendula 'Art Shades Mix' - Seeds, 99p, Thompson & Morgan

5. Violas

Violas are beautiful winter flowers that can add pops of pretty colour on the dreariest of days. It’s a brilliant choice for winter hanging baskets and pots, flowering all the way from autumn until spring.

‘Growing equally well in the ground, in pots or in hanging baskets, violas are a great hardy, low-growing plant which flood the garden centres at this time of year so you can easily add a splash of colour into your garden over the autumn months,’ says Lucie.

‘Thriving in the cooler temperatures of the autumn months, even withstanding light frosts, violas with provide a long lasting display with their petite blooms which still pack a punch due to their range of shades from the cheerful ‘Penny Yellow’ whose bright yellow blooms through to the pastel shades of ‘Pink Halo’ with its soft white upper petals complementing the halo of violet-purple which surround the centre of each bloom.’

Where to buy violas

• Viola 'Delft Blue', £7.99, Thompson & Morgan
• Viola 'Giant Flowered Trailing Blues Mix', £16.99, Suttons
• Viola 'Molly Sanderson', £9.99, Crocus

6. Nasturtiums

While the best time to plant Nasturtiums is between March and May, you can sow them now for a burst of autumn colour.

‘Nasturtiums are another good option because they grow incredibly quickly in warm conditions. I particularly like them for filling gaps around the edges of containers and raised beds, where they can tumble over the sides,’ says Andrew.

‘For an August sowing, choose a compact variety rather than a vigorous climber and give it the warmest, sunniest position you have. Don’t overfeed them, as rich compost tends to encourage lots of leaves at the expense of flowers.’

Where to buy nasturtiums

• Nasturtium 'Purple Emperor' - Seeds, £3.49, Thompson & Morgan
• Nasturtium 'Chameleon' - Seeds, £1, Thompson & Morgan
• Nasturtium Alaska 6 plug plants, £12.99, B&Q

Then end of summer doesn't mean the end of your garden's flowering period. These six flowers are perfect for extending your garden's flower lifespan and filling it with stunning colour, too.

The hot weather has made gardening a challenge this year, with many of us struggling to keep plants looked after and watered in the heat. But if your garden has lost its glow and the flowering plants are looking a little jaded, all is not lost.

Deadheading plants in August is one of the easiest, but most important jobs you can be doing right now. Focus on deadheading your summer bedding plants now and you’ll encourage a fresh flush of flowering that will see your garden right through to autumn.

‘To keep summer bedding plants blooming throughout autumn, it’s important to deadhead regularly,’ says Chris Bonnett, plant expert and founder of online garden centre Gardening Express. ‘Deadheading redirects plant energy into fresh blooms rather than the dead flowers. And there are certain bedding plants it’s worth keeping a close eye on during August.’

Read on to see which plants you should focus on and how to deadhead bedding plants most efficiently for a second flush of flowers.

Why deadheading bedding plants is a must

‘August is the prime time for deadheading your plants to keep them healthy as fall approaches,’ says Hanfei Niu at NiuPlants at Palmstreet app. ‘Once a flower wilts, a plant focuses on seed production instead of blooming and making new flowers. By removing old blooms before they set seed, it encourages the plant to produce more flowers instead, in another attempt to reproduce.’

‘August is also ideal for deadheading because plants are still growing but daylight is starting to shorten, so this keeps them blooming for the autumn rather than letting them go to seed. Regular deadheading keeps your plants looking beautiful, fresh and healthy all season long and keeps their energy and roots stronger as autumn approaches,’ adds Hanfei.

How often should you deadhead?

‘It really depends on the plant as to how often you’ll need to deadhead throughout August,’ advises Craig Wilson, co-founder and gardening expert at Gardeners Dream. ‘But usually around once a week is a good starting point to ensure you’re checking regularly for any new dying flowers that can be removed.’

‘Deadheading a little from time to time and often is best,’ advises Hanfei. ‘Check every few days, rather than waiting for all your plants to look tired and doing everything all at once.'

Which bedding plants benefit most from deadheading?

‘Focus on repeat-flowering favourites such as geraniums, petunias, marigolds, cosmos, dahlias and sweet peas,’ advises Mark Hewett Divisional Sales Manager for Garden Tools & Accessories at Wilkinson Sword. ‘By removing spent blooms before they have a chance to set seed, plants redirect their energy into producing fresh flowers rather than seeds, extending the display for several more weeks.’

‘Pinching out sweet peas is always a top priority,’ advises Hanfei. ‘If they set seed pods, they'll stop flowering almost entirely.’

How to deadhead effectively

‘Pinching the stem between your thumb and finger to snap off the stem is an easy way to deadhead,’ says Chris. ‘For more woody stems, snip with secateurs. And if you’re deadheading masses of small flowers, try using shears for speed.’

‘It’s worth keeping a close eye on certain bedding plants during August,’ advises Chris. ‘When deadheading marigolds, the spent flower heads can simply be pinched off and they’ll continue blooming during autumn. For deadheading petunias, pinch out faded, withered blooms along with their tiny stalks to prevent rotting. This will also stop the plants from looking untidy throughout late summer.’

‘When it comes to geraniums, simply snap off flower stalks from the main stem for fresh buds and to tidy the plant. And for deadheading cosmos, use snips to take off the old heads which will stop seed pods from forming and to encourage new growth.’

‘Dahlias will need secateurs for deadheating,’ adds Chris. ‘Cut old flower stems back to the closest leaf node or down to the main stem.’

5. Get your technique right

‘Don't make the deadheading mistake of simply pulling off faded petals. Instead, remove the entire flower stem back to the next healthy leaf or developing bud which will encourage stronger regrowth and a tidier plant,’ advises Mark. ‘It is essential that you make clean cuts without damaging healthy growth, so using snips or secateurs is always best when deadheading blooms on thicker stems.'

‘Use a sharp, precise tool to help prevent unnecessary damage to surrounding stems and foliage. Long-nosed pruning snips are ideal for the job, like these Straight Pruning Snips, £14.99 from Wilkinson Sword, with steel blades that deliver lasting sharpness and clean, accurate cuts, which makes it easer to work in tighter spaces between plants,’ adds Mark.

‘When deadheading, I’d always advise cutting back a certain amount but not too much and not just the flower,’ says Hanfei. ‘Follow the stem down to just above the first set of healthy leaves and snip off just the petals leaves to prevent an ugly stub that can rot.’

‘Use clean, sharp tools, like snips or pruning scissors. And ensure that they have clean blades to reduce the risk of spreading disease between plants,’ adds Hanfei.

Deadheading essentials

Don't stop at deadheading

‘Don't stop at deadheading,’ adds Hanfei. ‘Make sure to pull off any yellowing or brown leaves at the same time as you deadhead to keep plants looking neat and reduce disease risk.’

‘And keep watering bedding plants consistently, especially those in containers and hanging baskets, which dry out fast in August. Stressed, dry plants stop flowering regardless of deadheading,’ Hanfei adds.

‘Give long-leafed plants a trim too. For annuals like petunias that have gotten overgrown, a harder trim (cutting back by a third) alongside deadheading often triggers a fresh flush of compact growth,’ advises Hanfei. ‘And remember to separate deadheading from pruning. Shrubby plants (like lavender) are better lightly trimmed after flowering rather than deadheaded bloom-by-bloom.’

Give your bedding plants some care now, and they should continue to provide you with colour into the early autumn months.

Summer is usually when our gardens are at their peak, but after another run of hot, dry weather, you've probably noticed yours is looking, well, brown. Now that we're in late summer, you might also be thinking about how your garden will look once the weather starts to cool.

It's easy to fill your garden with lots of plants that put on a summer show, but once autumn swings around, borders start to become sparse if they're only filled with perennials. And as hotter, drier summers become more common, choosing low-maintenance plants that can cope with heatwaves while still delivering year-round interest is becoming a lot more important.

Evergreen shrubs are one of the simplest ways to achieve this. They'll provide structure and colour, but most interestingly, quite a lot of them are also drought-tolerant once established. So here are some of the expert-approved evergreen plants to consider filling your borders with to future-proof your garden.

Best drought tolerant, evergreen plants

'A lot of people end up filling their gardens with plants that only really shine for a few weeks of the year,' says Jo McGarry, luxury garden design expert at Caragh Nurseries. 'They look fantastic in summer, but once autumn arrives the garden can suddenly feel a bit bare.'

Jo explains that evergreen plants for borders are among the easiest ways to avoid your garden feeling bare by autumn, as they keep their look year-round.

'Better still, many are much tougher than people realise and can cope really well with hot, dry weather once they've had a chance to establish,' she adds.

1. Pyracantha (Firethorn)

Pyracantha offers something in every season. In spring, it's covered in clusters of white flowers that attract pollinators, while autumn and winter bring bright red and orange berries that birds love to munch on. Throughout the year, its glossy evergreen foliage provides valuable structure and colour, explains Lucie Bradley, gardening expert at Easy Garden Irrigation.

According to Lucie, pyracantha is also exceptionally resilient during heatwaves. Its thick, waxy leaves help minimise moisture loss, while its deep root system can access water lower in the soil, allowing established plants to cope well during prolonged dry spells.

Where to buy pyracantha:

• Thompson & Morgan: Enjoy the orange berries and sprays of white flowers of Pyracantha 'Orange Glow', from £11.99.
• Crocus: Or go for this classic red variety – Pyracantha Saphyr Rouge, from £24.99 for a two-litre pot.

2. Euonymus

If you're looking for reliable foliage colour all year, evergreen euonymus is hard to beat. Varieties such as 'Paloma Blanca' (from £24.99 for a two-litre pot, Crocus) produce fresh white new growth that matures to rich green, while 'Emerald 'n' Gold' (from £10.49 at Gardeners Dream) combines vibrant green leaves with golden margins for year-round impact.

Lucie explains that euonymus is equally impressive when temperatures soar. Its leathery foliage resists scorching and helps conserve moisture, while its adaptable root system makes the most of available water, even during drought conditions.

Where to buy euonymus:

• Gardener's Dream: Go for this easy-to-grow white and green Euonymus 'Kathy' from £10.49.
• Crocus: Or go for Euonymus alatus, from £26.99, that puts on an incredible fiery red display in autumn.

3. Ceanothus (California lilac)

Ceanothus combines evergreen foliage with spectacular clouds of blue flowers, depending on the variety, from spring to late summer. It provides valuable structure in winter and one of the most eye-catching floral displays during the growing season.

Native to Mediterranean climates, ceanothus is naturally adapted to hot, dry weather. Lucie says its waxy leaves reduce water loss, while its extensive root system enables established plants to continue thriving during heatwaves.

Where to buy ceanothus:

• Crocus: Add vibrant colour from August until October with Ceanothus 'Autumnal Blue', from £24.99.
• Thompson & Morgan: Or opt for Ceanothus griseus var. horizontalis 'Yankee Point', from £12.99, which has a low spreading habit which makes excellent ground cover.

4. Heather

Heather is another evergreen that offers year-round colour, with varieties featuring green, silver, bronze or golden foliage alongside flowers that appear at different times depending on the cultivar.

Richard Barker, horticultural expert at LBS Horticulture, advises growing heather in free-draining, acidic soil in full sun. Once established, it needs very little attention beyond an annual trim after flowering.

Where to buy heather:

• Gardeners' Dream: You can pick up a lovely mix of different heathers from £17.99.
• Crocus: Or go for a deep pink variety with this Calluna vulgaris 'Dark Beauty', from £8.99.

5. Cistus (Rock rose)

Cistus (or rock roses) is ideal for hot, sunny gardens. While each delicate flower lasts only one day, the shrub produces a continual succession of blooms throughout summer, ensuring weeks of colour alongside evergreen foliage that can develop attractive bronze or purple tones in colder weather.

After the first year, Richard says cistus becomes highly drought-tolerant and requires very little maintenance, making it particularly well suited to modern UK gardens experiencing hotter summers.

Where to buy cistus:

• Thompson & Morgan: For striking borders, try this Cistus x purpurea, £34.99, which provides masses of pink blooms with maroon blotches all summer.
• Crocus: Or go for a pretty white variety with this Cistus × hybridus, £22.99.

Mixing a handful of evergreen shrubs with different flowering times, foliage colours and textures means your garden keeps changing with the seasons, but it never looks empty, explains Jo.

'It's a much more resilient way to garden, especially as we're seeing hotter, drier summers become more common,' she adds.

So there you go! It's possible to create a garden that remains attractive throughout the year while also standing up to increasingly frequent summer heatwaves. Happy planting!

As summers become hotter and dry spells more common, it is no surprise whatsoever that we're all looking for plants that can cope with these exhausting new conditions. As Alan Titchmarsh makes all too clear, though, we can absolutely do this without compromising on colour.

Yes, Alan Titchmarsh is one of those gardening names that has a lot of clout behind it. So, when he says there's a way to make a drought-tolerant garden that still looks pretty and packed full of blooms, you'd best believe we sit up and pay attention!

Speaking in a recent video for Grow For It, the gardening pro sat down to list off all the ways you can help your garden get through those hot months. Perhaps more enticingly, though, he also shared his favourite drought-resistant flowers, and there was one in particular that stood head and shoulders (or petals and stems) above the rest.

Alan Titchmarsh's drought-tolerant plant of choice

In the video (which you can watch below), Alan Titchmarsh made a point of encouraging gardeners to embrace Mediterranean-inspired planting with silver foliage and sun-loving perennials.

And, nestled among his recommendations, it was shrubby salvias that stood out as a must-have for adding months of vibrant colour to the garden.

In the video, Alan describes shrubby salvias as one of the best plants for bringing reliable colour to borders throughout summer. Not only are they loved by bees and other pollinators, but they're also far tougher than many gardeners realise.

"We used to think that they were quite tender, but now they come through most winters in most parts of the country," he explains, which is welcome news for gardeners who may have avoided salvias in the past. Because, thanks to milder winters in many parts of the UK and the availability of hardier varieties, shrubby salvias are now considered a reliable perennial in many gardens, returning year after year with very little fuss.

Shop salvias

As well as being long-flowering, salvias are drought-tolerant once established, making them an excellent choice for gardens that experience very hot (and very dry) weather, as they can shrug off hosepipe bans like nobody's business. And, at the same time, their nectar-rich blooms also provide an important food source for bees, butterflies and other pollinators throughout the summer months.

In the same video, Alan Titchmarsh also points out that they're ideal for container gardening, as growing them in pots means you can move them to a sheltered position over winter if particularly cold weather is forecast, offering extra protection in colder parts of the UK.

Shrubby salvias aren't the only plants Alan Titchmarsh recommends for coping with dry summers. In the same video, he suggests taking inspiration from Mediterranean gardens by combining them with plants featuring silver foliage, which is naturally adapted to baking hot conditions.

It's also worth noting that plants such as lavender, santolina (The pale yellow blooms of the hardy Santolina rosmarinifolia 'Primrose Gem' from Thompson & Morgan are perfect for filling gaps) and Artemisia (Artemisia arborescens 'Powis Castle' from Thompson & Morgan was awarded an RHS Award of Garden Merit) complement the vivid purple, pink and red flowers of salvias perfectly, all while creating a clever planting scheme that's low-maintenance and resilient during heatwaves.

FAQs

With hotter summers becoming the norm, choosing plants that thrive in dry conditions is one of the easiest ways to future-proof your garden, and shrubby salvias tick all the boxes: they're colourful, pollinator-friendly, relatively low maintenance and, as Alan Titchmarsh points out, much hardier than their reputation suggests.

Whether planted in borders or pots, they're a simple way to create a garden that looks good while coping better with whatever the weather brings. So, when things are feeling hot, hot, hot (and your garden is looking tired and distressingly brown), you know which way to turn for a little colour. Happy planting!

Looking after our gardens during this summer’s exceptionally hot weather has been a challenge. And with hosepipe bans in place throughout much of the country, it’s difficult to know what to do for the best when your garden is up against it, and water is in short supply.

So I asked a team of gardening experts if there is anything we can be doing to help our gardens survive the high temperatures (while still conserving water) plus what water-saving habits it would have been wise to adopt before this summer’s hot weather hit.

‘Creating a garden that needs less watering starts long before the hosepipe comes out,’ says Peter Chaloner, Managing Director at Cobra. ‘The most effective approach is to build resilience into your lawn and planting scheme from the ground up, rather than reacting when dry weather arrives.’

So, what water-saving habits do the experts recommend to help make our gardens more drought-tolerant this summer (and in future summers)...find out all below.

1. Harvest rainwater ahead of hot weather

This summer has been exceptionally hot and dry, with much of the country facing drought and hosepipe bans. But if we cast our minds back to the wet and rainy winter months, this is when we really should have been thinking about our summer gardens and conserving the rainwater when it was plentiful, say the experts.

‘Harvesting rainwater is an eco-friendly way of reusing water in the garden, rather than always reaching for the hosepipe,’ says Chris Bonnett, founder of Gardening Express. ‘But filling up your water butt before the hot weather arrives is vital, which means getting a water butt before the rainy season to ensure you're ready to collect rainwater throughout the wetter months.’

‘Installing a water butt is one of the easiest ways to collect rainwater during the wetter months and build up a reserve before a heatwave strikes,’ agrees Shelley Davis, flower expert at Flying Flowers. ‘Rainwater is actually better for plants than treated tap water because it is free of chemicals and less alkaline, making it ideal for thirsty borders and potted plants.’

‘By tapping into this stored rainwater when dry spells hit, you can keep your garden flourishing without putting extra pressure on the mains supply or worrying about hosepipe bans.’

‘You can also start collecting ‘grey water’ – recycled water from your sink, shower, or washing machine – ahead of hot weather,’ adds Shelley. ‘So long as you use eco-friendly, bleach-free soaps, it’s a brilliant, hose-free way to keep your garden hydrated when temperatures peak.’

Shop for water butts

2. Water well, not often

‘When it comes to saving water, the trick is to water well, not often,’ advises Julian Palphramand, Head of Plants at British Garden Centres. ‘A deep soak at the base of the plant first thing in the morning is far more effective than a quick splash in the heat of the day, because it gets moisture down to the roots before it evaporates. And with hosepipe bans in effect, a watering can is best to use.’

‘Watering during the cooler parts of the day, such as early morning or later in the evening, is something everyone should be doing in summer,’ agrees Chris. ‘If you water during the peak heat, most of the moisture will likely evaporate before it reaches the roots, making watering far less efficient. Watering less often but more thoroughly encourages deeper root growth, helping plants become more resilient during hot, dry weather.’

‘Installing a slow-release watering system next to plants and trees is a great way of keeping them hydrated,’ suggests Shelley. ‘Drilling a small hole into the bottom of a bucket or buying a water irrigation system allows water to slowly seep into the soil over hours instead of running straight off the dry top surface.’

3. Water less by planting smarter

‘As our summers become warmer and periods of dry weather become more frequent, choosing the right plants is just as important as how you water them,’ says Charlotte McGrattan, Hardy Nursery Stock Buyer at Hillier Garden Centres. ‘One of the biggest misconceptions is that saving water is simply about watering less. In reality, it’s about planting smarter.’

‘Choosing resilient plants that naturally thrive in drier conditions, such as agave, echinops and eryngium, is a simple way to create a beautiful garden that requires less watering. Once established, drought-tolerant plants like these will need far less watering than traditional bedding schemes, making them a practical choice for increasingly hot UK summers.’

‘If you live in an area that is often generally drier or have a purely south-facing garden, adapting your planting to include more Mediterranean varieties that are more resilient to drought conditions and require less watering during hot weather spells is wise,’ agrees Shelley.

4. Arrange planting strategically to retain moisture

‘Clustering your container plants together is another smart habit to adopt ahead of a heatwave,’ advises Shelley. ‘Potted plants dry out much faster than garden beds, but grouping them tightly creates a cool microclimate where the plants shade one another and trap surrounding moisture. This shared humidity dramatically slows down evaporation from the soil, keeping your pots hydrated longer and saving you from having to water them as frequently when temperatures soar.’

‘How you arrange planting in flower beds and garden borders can also make just as much difference as choice of plants and how often you water them,’ advises Charlotte. ‘Positioning taller shrubs and structural plants to cast light shade over lower-growing varieties helps keep the soil cooler, reduces evaporation and protects plants from the hottest part of the day. Combined with drought-tolerant planting, this creates a garden that’s naturally more resilient, uses less water and continues to thrive through increasingly warm, dry summers.’

5. Let the lawn grow longer to build up resilience

‘Letting your grass grow a bit longer in the weeks leading up to a heatwave is a simple, low-effort way to salvage water,’ says Shelley. ‘Taller grass blades shade the soil beneath them, which slows down evaporation and helps the roots retain previous moisture deep in the ground.’

‘Resisting the urge to mow too short keeps the grass resilient, meaning you won’t need to spend extra water keeping your lawn alive when hot, dry weather hits,’ adds Shelley.

‘The most effective approach is to build resilience into your lawn from the ground up, rather than reacting when dry weather arrives,’ agrees Peter at Cobra. ‘A healthy, well-maintained lawn develops deeper, stronger roots that are naturally better equipped to access moisture below the surface, helping it stay greener for longer during periods of low rainfall.’

‘During hot weather, simple lawn care preventative practices such as keeping mower blades sharp and avoiding cutting the grass too short all help to reduce stress and improve drought tolerance. Leaving the grass slightly longer during warm weather also shades the soil, slowing evaporation and helping retain valuable moisture.’

6. Improve soil health to reduce the need for frequent watering

‘​​One of the most effective ways to create a water-wise garden is to focus on improving the soil rather than simply watering more,’ says Matt J. Adams, founder and lead gardener at The Relentless Gardener. ‘Healthy soil that’s rich in organic matter, such as well-rotted farmyard manure, acts like a sponge, absorbing rainfall when it arrives and holding onto moisture for much longer. This means plants have access to water over an extended period, reducing the need for frequent watering during dry spells while also encouraging stronger, deeper root systems that are naturally more drought-tolerant.’

‘Adding organic matter to borders every year is one of the simplest changes you can make. Products such as Blooms Booster, from £9.50, The Relentless Gardener, make this easy, feeding plants while improving the soil’s ability to retain moisture due to the 25% liquid seaweed contained within it.’

‘Mulching around plants before hot weather sets in is another great way to help retain moisture in the soil,’ agrees Chris. ‘You can use things like bark, woodchips and straw. These materials help to reduce evaporation and keep the ground from drying out as quickly during periods of heat.’

‘Mulch is worth its weight in gold in hot weather,’ agrees Julian. ‘It helps the soil hold onto moisture for longer and keeps the roots cooler.’

Shop for mulch

7. Feed regularly to make plants more resilient

‘Hot weather can affect how efficiently plants absorb and use nutrients, making regular feeding particularly important throughout the summer months,’ says Angharad James, Brand Manager at Maxicrop. ‘When growing vegetable crops and fruiting plants such as tomatoes, they are especially vulnerable, as they require a steady supply of nutrients to support healthy growth and crop production.’

‘Feeds that combine nutrition with natural seaweed extract can help support both plant growth and resilience, like this Maxicrop All Purpose Liquid Vegetable growth stimulant & feed, £13.50 at B&Q, that helps maintain healthy growth and productive harvests, while Maxicrop Tomato Growth Stimulant & Feed, £14.99 at Amazon, provides the additional potash needed to support flowering, fruit development and crop quality. Maintaining a consistent feeding routine can help plants stay healthier and recover more quickly after periods of extreme heat.’

How is your garden faring in the hot weather? Let us know what water-saving tips you swear by.

August is here, and with it comes a gardening job that's going to give you more beautiful plants without costing a penny.

'This month is one of the better times to lift and split certain perennials, especially anything that has become congested or is flowering less freely than it used to,' says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

There are some other great reasons to divide plants this month too – it stops overcrowding and gives tired varieties a new lease of life, and doing it this month ensures the ground is still warm enough for the plants to get established before winter. We look at which plants you should start dividing below and how.

1. Irises

'Irises are the obvious one and respond well to being divided once they’ve finished flowering and before growth slows down,' Julian adds.

So what's the best way to do it? 'Always pick a cool day,' advises Julian, 'Replant straight away and water them properly afterwards. It’s really about giving the plant room to breathe again; if a perennial has started to suffer, that’s often your cue.'

If you love irises, then there are some lovely colours to choose from. First up that we love is Iris Orange Harvest, from £9.99 at Thompson & Morgan, and it's guaranteed to flower in the first year.

The Beverly Sills variety is a stunner too, with its delicate coral pink flowers, from £4.99 at J.Parkers.

2. Lady's Mantle

This is one variety that most of us love with its vibrant lime green flowers and distinct look. We asked Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation, about how to divide it.

'The best time to divide is when the centre of the clumps becomes old and woody, and there are fewer blooms. Dividing it will refresh it and prevent the older middle section from dying. Use a spade or fork to dig about 5 to 7cm deep around the base of the plant and carefully lift the root ball from the ground, using the foliage to help handle it from the ground.'

Once you've lifted it out, shake off the excess soil and trim back the foliage, removing old flower stems and cutting back the older, larger leaves, but keep the younger ones, says Lucie. 'This helps when it has been divided and replanted to concentrate its energy on establishing its root system and helps reduce water loss through the foliage. Then cut through the root ball and divide it into sections and replant immediately.'

Lady's Mantle is a great perennial for its colour and coverage. You can buy it in one litre pots for £7.99 from Gardening Express.

Shopping essentials

3. Hostas

Hostas are an eye-catching variety, and they can get to the point where they need to be divided. This stops them from spreading and allows you to propagate the new plants.

If the centre of your clump is looking a bit tired and the plant is too crowded, these are your signs. They are prone to outgrowing the position you originally planted them in and should be divided between year three and year five.

How do you divide hostas? If the hosta is small, you can divide by hand; if not, then find a central point and simply cut through with a knife, remove any damaged foliage and give them a drink in a bucket of water before replanting.

J.Parkers sells a hosta mix, pack of five first-grade loose roots for £7.99, or check out the hosta patriot plantain lily from Amazon, £10.99 for a 9cm pot; it's a more traditional-looking variety.

4. Daylilies

Daylilies are kind of what their name suggests – they only last for 24 hours; they are also tough cookies, and their blooms are edible.

Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture, explains, 'Daylilies can be divided in early spring or late summer once they have finished flowering. Use a spade to lift clumps out of the ground, and select young growth from around the edges of the clump. Try to break off crowns by hand, ensuring each has roots and shoots.'

When you replant, make sure you fork the soil around each one and give them a good water.

If you like the idea of daylilies, you can buy them in various pretty colours. Crocus's Hemerocallis collection consists of three bare roots, £23.95, and you get Strawberry Candy, Canadian Border Patrol and Olive Bailey Langdon.

Suttons sell three featuring yellow, red and orange varieties called Stella Trio for £19.99, and you get 9cm potted plants ready to be planted.

5. Oriental poppies

Poppies bring so much joy, and they create a fabulous statement from late spring to early summer – and they are quite consistent for around five years.

'Once your plants are over 5 years old, they are likely to be past their peak, with clumps becoming large and woody,' explains Lucie. 'At this age it’s worth dividing up your poppies, and August is the perfect time as they are coming to the end of their summer dormancy and new green basal foliage will start to be produced as temperatures cool.'

Poppies have long tap roots that can each 30cm or deeper into the ground; this means they can be challenging to divide.

'To avoid damaging these long roots, you will need to carefully dig a wide, deep circle around the perennial so that you can lift out the entire root ball, as damaging the tap roots can cause new divided plants to fail. Once you have successfully removed the roots from the ground, use a clean, sharp knife or pruning shears to cut vertically through the roots, making sure to include one ‘eye’ and a piece of tap root in each divided part,' says Lucie.

Make sure you've pre-prepared where they're going as the roots can dry out quickly.
You can buy three bare root plants, each a different variety of oriental poppies from Dobies for £16.49 (currently on offer). The varieties are Beauty of Livermore, Victoria Louise and Queen Alexandra.

For a single variety, check out Farmer Gracy's Perry's White, which is simply stunning and is priced at £5.90 for one bare root.

Go and have a walk around your garden to see if the varieties mentioned above are looking a little crowded, if so, have a go at dividing them and good luck!

Did you know that some plants like eggshells? It sounds bizarre, but it actually makes a lot of sense once you understand their nutritional value to certain plants.

There are a few ways to use eggshells around the garden, but turning them into fertiliser isn't something you'd expect to work. If you clean them and finely crush them up, though, they’re a fantastic source of calcium – and I didn’t realise just how many plants can benefit from them.

‘Before using eggshells in the garden, make sure they're thoroughly cleaned to remove any egg residue that could attract pests,’ advises Nick Wood, horticulturist at GardeningExpress.co.uk. ‘Once they're completely dry, crush them into a fine powder so they break down quickly and can be absorbed by root systems easily.’

Here’s a list of plants that like eggshells.

1. Tomatoes

Learning to grow your own tomatoes doesn’t usually come with notes on feeding them eggshells, but experts say they can actually provide a nutrient boost and bolster your plant’s defences early in the season.

‘Eggshells are best used with crops that appreciate a bit of calcium, especially tomatoes,’ says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

‘For tomatoes and peppers, eggshells are often used as part of the approach to reducing blossom-end rot, but they’re not a cure on their own. They work best alongside even watering and a balanced feed.’

It’s a little late in the year for eggshells to have a meaningful effect on your tomato plants, since they take a bit of time to break down in the soil, but it’s worth saving your kitchen scraps next year. In the meantime, a fertiliser like Levington Tomorite, which you can order for just £3.99 from Amazon, can give your plants the late summer boost they need to produce lots of tasty tomatoes.

2. Squash

I think squash is one of the most rewarding crops I’ve ever grown – patty pan squashes were a hit in my small vegetable garden – and it’s another plant that loves eggshells.

‘Eggshells are a great addition to the garden because they're rich in calcium carbonate,’ says Nick. ‘Plants that benefit from extra calcium, like squash, can make good use of them.’

For a bumper crop, don’t forget to feed your squash plants with a fertiliser that provides a steady supply of essential nutrients. This Bronte Heritage Collection Courgette, Squash & Pumpkin Feed (available from Amazon), for example, is specially formulated for rapid fruit development and swelling.

3. Leafy greens

Salad crops like spinach and lettuce also appreciate an occasional dose of crushed eggshells. Julian says they’re another example of plants that benefit from calcium, which makes them brilliant candidates for eggshells.

‘The trick is to crush them finely first,’ says Julian. ‘Otherwise, they break down too slowly to make much difference in the short term. I’d use them as a light top dressing, mix them into the soil, or add them to compost rather than expecting them to work like a quick feed.’

As Julian mentioned earlier, eggshells should never replace well-rounded feeds. A general-purpose fertiliser like Westland Organic Vegetable Liquid Plant Food from Amazon will give you better results.

4. Clematis

Those vegetables aren’t the only plants that love eggshells – climbing plants like clematis prefer a slightly alkaline soil, and crushed eggshells can lift the soil’s pH level a little.

‘Crushed eggshells are best used around plants that prefer alkaline soil, as they slowly release calcium and can raise the soil's pH,’ says Nick. ‘Flowering plants like roses appreciate the boost.’

Of course, you’ll need to feed your clematis other nutrients for them to perform their very best. Vitax Clematis Feed, which you can order from Amazon, can be used every three months from March to promote vigorous growth and flowering.

5. Aubergines

As their matching names would have it, eggshells and eggplants work really well together. They’re another suggestion of Julian’s, since eggshells stave off blossom-end rot in aubergines in the same way they would for tomatoes and peppers, and they’re also calcium-loving plants.

‘They’re also a really great deterrent for slugs and snails thanks to their sharp edges,’ adds Nick.

There are, of course, some places you should never use eggshells in the garden. Blueberries and camellias, for example, benefit more from being watered with coffee.

‘Try to avoid using them around acid-loving plants, because it will reduce the soil's acidity, making growing conditions less suitable,’ warns Nick.

Shop these popular fertilisers

Are you growing any plants that like eggshells? Make sure you wash them and crush them into a fine powder before you use them as a feed!

We might be nearing the end of summer, but that doesn’t mean your plants’ glory days are over. In fact, there are some plants you can cut back in August for an extra flush of flowers.

Perennials, specifically. They rank high on a list of plants to prune in August, because they respond really well to a trim at this time of the year. Cutting them back could even reward you with a bonus round of blooms, according to experts.

‘August is the point when many gardens begin to look slightly tired, but cutting the right plants back can encourage a completely fresh flush of foliage and flowers,’ says Jane Westoby, creative director at The Hampshire Seed Company. ‘The key is to cut decisively rather than simply removing the occasional faded bloom.

Below, you’ll find a few examples of plants to cut back in August for an extra flush of flowers.

What you'll need

1. Hardy geraniums

As the name would have it, hardy geraniums are tough perennials that produce lots and lots of pretty blooms. They’re also fantastic ground cover plants that can block weeds, but this late in the season, they’ll likely be starting to look a little messy. That’s where a pair of snips will come in handy – and even encourage extra flowers.

‘Hardy geraniums can become sprawling and untidy after their first flowering,’ says Jane. ‘Cut the stems and tired foliage back close to the base, water them thoroughly, and they will usually produce fresh leaves followed by another flush of flowers.’

If you’re looking for the best secateurs for the job, it’s worth going for bypass secateurs, which are better suited to cleanly cutting the stems. These Spear & Jackson Razorsharp Advantage Bypass Secateurs are just £10.95 at Amazon, and one of my favourite pairs to date.

2. Lady's mantle

Lady’s mantle, or Alchemilla mollis, is one of the best cottage garden plants for pots, because it's so pretty. It's another perennial that responds well to light pruning in late summer.

‘In August, the perennials worth cutting back are the ones that have finished their first flower flush and are willing to repeat,’ says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. ‘Lady’s mantle will often respond well to a trim, especially if you remove spent flower stems and any tired growth.’

If you want to use a premium pair of snips, the Niwaki Garden Snips are the best I’ve tried.

3. Penstemons

Penstemons benefit from a trim in August as well, but they're best treated lightly if you want them to survive the colder months. A compact pair of snips like these Kent & Stowe Garden Life Pruning Snips from B&Q are ideal for smaller tasks.

'Keep removing faded flower stems, cutting back to a healthy sideshoot rather than trimming the whole plant indiscriminately,' advises Jane. 'This encourages more flowers while leaving enough protective growth on the plant for winter.'

It's almost time to take cuttings from your penstemons, too, since they're one of the best plants you can propagate in September.

4. Delphiniums

You don't have to say goodbye to those stately flower spikes just yet – according to Julian, delphiniums are another plant you should cut back in August for an extra flush of flowers.

'A light cut-back now can tidy the plant and encourage fresh growth that may carry a second round of flowers later in the season,' he says.

Aftercare is just as important as the pruning task itself, and it'll determine how well your plants recover.

'One important caveat is that plants need water to regrow,' explains Jane. 'Cutting them back during very hot or dry weather without watering them afterwards can place them under even more stress. A thorough soak is often more useful than immediately adding fertiliser.'

5. Catmint

Catmint is a beautiful perennial, and it's also a low-maintenance flowering plant that can keep mosquitoes at bay. To encourage the plant to flower again, it's worth cutting it back hard in August.

'Once catmint begins to flop and fade, shear the whole plant back rather than deadheading individual stems,' advises Jane. 'Give it a good drink afterwards and it should quickly form a neat mound of fresh growth and more flowers.'

I also rate the WOLF-Garten Bypass Secateurs, available at Amazon, if you're looking for a sturdy pair of pruners.

6. Perennial salvias

Last but not least, perennial salvias also benefit from a trim in August – especially if you want them to flower for the remainder of the growing season. If you're wondering how to prune salvias at this time of the year, it's best to take a lighter approach.

'Remove faded flower stems by cutting them back to a healthy pair of leaves or a sideshoot lower down the stem,' says Jane. 'Regular cutting prevents the plants putting energy into seed production and can keep many salvias flowering well into autumn.'

Cut these plants back in August for a bonus round of blooms. It's a task worth doing!

We're in the peak of summer right now, and if you have agapanthus growing in your garden, it will be looking its best, despite the unseasonably hot weather. Agapanthus look stunning in full bloom with their striking blue flowers, long stems and lush foliage and if you’re wondering how to keep yours looking its best for longer, the good news is that when it comes to what to do with agapanthus in August, the answer is ‘not a lot’...which is a relief considering the heatwave and hosepipe bans that many of us are under at the moment.

‘August is really all about keeping agapanthus neat and not pushing them to do more than they already are,’ says Julian Palphramand, Head of Plants at British Garden Centres. ‘During August it’s mainly a matter of deadheading agapanthus flowers as they fade, plus keeping on top of watering. Do both of these (and hold off on doing other tasks), and you’ll keep the plant looking fresher for longer.’

Find out which jobs you should be doing right now and what jobs you don’t need to be worrying about below.

1. Deadhead faded booms but don't cut back the foliage

‘To keep your agapanthus looking healthy and blooming for as long as possible, once the flower head has completely faded, use clean, sharp secateurs or snips to remove the entire flowering stem,’ advises Craig Wilson, Co-founder and gardening expert at Gardeners Dream.

‘Follow the stem down and cut it off low at the base, just above where it emerges from the clump, taking care not to damage the crown or surrounding foliage. When deadheading, make sure to keep any healthy, green leaves on the plant as these are needed to absorb sunlight to help feed the roots, which helps direct energy toward continued flowering.'

When it comes to what to do with agapanthus after flowering, when the summer months are over, this will involve cutting back both flowers and foliage, but won't need to be tackled until autumn once plants have fully finished flowering.

Shop for deadheading essentials

2. Water consistently but don’t overwater

‘Aside from when to deadhead agapanthus, you also need to water them regularly throughout the last few weeks of the summer season,’ says Craig. ‘This will help to keep your plant healthy and encourage some last-minute blooms before the plant is ready for budding next year.’

‘I would advise watering your agapanthus around once or twice per week in August, depending on how warm the weather gets, ensuring the soil is moist throughout but not waterlogged as this will rot the roots and destroy your plants,’ adds Chris.

When it comes to agapanthus in containers, these may require watering more frequently as pots and containers tend to dry out much more quickly than plants growing in the ground. Check how dry the soil is by poking your finger into the compost before you water, as agapanthus benefit if the soil dries out a little before watering.

‘If the weather is very dry, give agapanthus a proper soak now and again rather than lots of little splashes of water, which won’t do much good,’ advises Julian. ‘But do avoid overwatering agapanthus as they dislike sitting in wet soil, especially when in pots, and they’ll always perform better when free-draining, so consider pot feet or a well-draining but moisture-retaining mix, like this Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Peat-free compost, £8.50 from B&Q, which can help prevent plants from drying out too quickly.’

3. Ensure plenty of sunshine

Agapanthus require direct sunlight for at least two-thirds of the day, so it’s important to factor this in at the agapanthus planting stage. Moving a plant into a sunny spot too late in the season may mean that it doesn’t flower the following year.

‘Find a sun-kissed area of the garden to plant agapanthus that also benefits from a bit of rain shelter,’ advises Craig. ‘This normally consists of planting near a sun-facing fence and should encourage fresh new growth as well as more flowers.’

When it comes to the extremely hot weather that we’ve been experiencing this summer, although agapanthus handle hot dry spells better than most plants, prolonged heatwaves can require more targeted care like deep watering or a smart irrigation system to ensure that plants don’t suffer in the heat.

‘For agapanthus in containers, do make sure that they’re not baking in all-day sun with no room for moisture to stay in the compost,’ advises Julian.

Shop for DIY irrigation kits

4. Hold off feeding agapanthus in summer

While it can be tempting to whip out the plant fertiliser if you want to encourage a healthy plant to produce more flowers, adding fertiliser is something that you actually shouldn’t be doing in high summer when it comes to agapanthus.

‘You don’t need to feed agapanthus heavily at this point in the season,’ advises Julian. ‘Too much fertiliser now can encourage lots of leafy growth at the expense of flowers, which will weaken the plant.’

When it comes to feeding agapanthus, this should be done during the growing season from Spring until flowering, using a high potassium feed, such as Levington Tomorite Liquid Tomato Food, £3.99, Amazon.

And remember that plants in containers have less access to nutrients than plants growing in the ground in borders, so feeding any agapanthus you have growing in pots is essential during the growing season.

5. Don’t divide agapanthus in summer

‘When it comes to dividing perennial plants like agapanthus, I would always advise not splitting them in August as doing this so late into the season will stress the plant and hinder its growth,’ says Craig. ‘I’d therefore recommend waiting until early spring to separate them,’ advises Craig.

The benefit of dividing agapanthus plants is that they can become crowded and congested over time, which starves the roots of space and nutrients and can cause a lack of flowers. Established agapanthus clumps are best lifted and divided into smaller clumps in springtime, which will give extra plants for free that can then be planted elsewhere in the garden.

How are your agapanthus faring this summer? Let us know how you've been looking after them.

If your dahlias are (hopefully) flowering this month and you want to prolong or boost those displays, you'll need to know what to do with dahlias in August.

Whether you’re growing dahlias in pots or dinnerplate varieties in your border, the care you give them right now will determine how long they bloom for – and how much they flower over the coming weeks.

It's all about deadheading them the right way, watering them properly, and one or two other care tasks that'll guarantee strong, healthy plants for the rest of the growing season. Here's what to do with your dahlias this August.

What you'll need

1. Deadhead spent flowers

In August, your dahlias should be pumping out blooms like there’s no tomorrow. That’s why deadheading is such an important dahlia task – think of them as a cut-and-come-again plant, because the more you deadhead, the more flowers you’ll be rewarded with.

‘The most important August job is to keep the plants flowering well, and here, deadheading is crucial,’ says Topher Martyn, head gardener at Syon Park.

‘When you cut off an old flower head, trim right back to the next pair of leaves, as this is where a new pair of flowers will emerge.’

I always resort to a sturdy pair of garden snips when I’m deadheading my plants, like these Kent & Stowe Garden Life Snips from B&Q.

Identifying an old flower head is pretty easy – you’ll just need to look at its shape.

‘Pointy shapes mean the flowers are done, so cut them all the way back to the main stem,’ explains Nicky Ryan, gardener at Polhawn Fort. ‘To recognise new buds, look for round shapes.’

2. Cut back leggy stems

If your dahlias are beginning to look leggy in August, you can get them back in shape by pruning them a little harder.

‘One of the (many) strengths of dahlias is that they’re strong growers, so if you think they’re getting leggy, don’t be afraid to cut a few stems back hard,’ says Topher from Syon Park.

‘Before you know it, there’ll be new buds coming through further down, and there’s no reason they won’t keep on through the dog days of September, right up to the first frost.’

You’ll need a sharp pair of secateurs to make the task smoother. These Niwaki Sentei Secateurs are some of the best I’ve tried, but if you’re after a budget-friendly pair, the Spear & Jackson Razorsharp Bypass Secateurs (which you can buy from Amazon) are an absolute steal.

3. Water them well

Underwatering and overwatering are some of the main reasons a dahlia fails to bloom, and they can stunt a plant’s flowering potential in August, too. Since the heatwaves seem to be sticking around, hydration is key this month.

‘While they will tolerate a degree of drought, dahlias generally perform far better if kept watered, so this might be a case when it’s worth schlepping out with a watering can,’ says Topher from Syon Park.

‘During dry spells, regular watering will be needed at the base of the new plant,’ agrees Nicky from Polhawn Fort. ‘Dahlias in pots will need more watering.’

Since there are hosepipe bans in place in many parts of the UK, it’s worth using a big watering can instead, like this 10L Ward Watering Can from Argos.

4. Feed them until the end of the month

Keep your dahlias well-fed in August to maximise their flowering displays. Until the end of the month, anyway.

‘Continue to feed container plants weekly and ground plants every two weeks with a low nitrogen, high potassium feed,’ says Nicky. ‘At the end of August, stop feeding so the tubers can prepare for their winter dormancy.’

Vitax Dahlia Feed, which you can order from Amazon, is a high-potash fertiliser that’s ideal for August feeding.

Deadheading, consistent watering and high-potash feeds are key to nurturing dahlias in August, promoting lots of healthy blooms right through to the autumn months.

Want to keep your roses flowering until early autumn? If you know what to do with roses in August, you can encourage another flush of blooms.

Learning how to grow roses is incredibly rewarding, because the repeat-flowering varieties look (and often smell) beautiful from spring through to the first frosts. This month is a crucial time to pencil in care tasks that’ll keep the plants in bloom – especially in light of the ongoing heatwaves.

‘August is about maintenance rather than major intervention,’ says Andrew Jackson, award-winning garden writer, designer and creator of The New Build Manifesto. ‘A few minutes spent deadheading, watering deeply and removing diseased leaves every week will reward you with another flush of flowers well into autumn.’

Here’s what to do with roses in August.

What you'll need

1. Give them enough water

Watering might seem like an obvious gardening task, but it’s one of the most important things you can do for your roses in August. You’ll need to be a little more attentive when it comes to watering roses in hot weather, though.

‘In the current climate, roses need to be watered early in the morning and during the evening,’ advises Philip Harkness from Harkness Roses. ‘Water straight to the roots and not on the plant itself, as this can cause leaf burn.’

Deep watering is generally recommended during drought weather. Andrews says, ‘During dry spells, water deeply once or twice a week rather than little and often.’

Since hosepipe bans are in place in many parts of the UK, it’s wise to use a large watering can like this affordable 10L Ward watering can from Argos to water your roses.

2. Deadhead them

If you want your roses to keep flowering, deadheading is a crucial August task.

‘Like all plants, roses are biologically programmed to produce seeds,’ explains Topher Martyn, head gardener at Syon Park. ‘By cutting off old flowers before seeds are set, you will frustrate this basic urge and compel the plant to produce more flowers. Sounds a bit mean, but, after all, roses are all about flowers!’

So, how do you actually deadhead roses?

‘Deadhead when the flowers have finished blooming by looking down the stem and cutting just above the first five leaves you see,’ says Philip Harkness. ‘This will encourage a new bud to grow.’

These Darlac deadheading snips from Amazon are ideal.

3. Watch out for pests and diseases

Pests and diseases often thrive in hot weather, and a fair few of them can become problems for roses in August – so you’ll need to keep a close eye on them this month.

‘Keep an eye out for common issues like black spot, aphids, and mildew,’ says Lechuza's horticultural expert, Ross Dyke. ‘Remove any infected leaves as soon as you can, and ensure good airflow around the plant.’

Luckily, a tonic spray can keep them at bay.

‘Spray a foliar feed such as Uncle Tom’s Tonic directly onto the foliage to prevent disease and keep them healthy,’ says Philip from Harkness Roses. ‘Use it first thing in the morning or in the evening, every two weeks during the blooming season, and not in direct sunlight.

You can buy Uncle Tom’s Rose Tonic from Amazon.

4. Feed the plants

A foliar feed is ideal for keeping diseases at bay, but you can also fertilise your roses with a high-potash feed in August to encourage late flowering.

‘It’s worth continuing to feed repeat-flowering roses with a high-potash fertiliser if you haven't done so since their first flush,’ says Andrew Jackson. ‘This helps fuel late summer blooms.’

This advice only applies until the end of August, though.

‘Stop feeding towards the end of the month in colder parts of the country so soft new growth has time to harden before autumn,’ adds Andrew.

Vitax Organic Rose Feed, which you can order from Amazon, contains a high-potash formula to foster healthy, vibrant blooms.

Keep on top of watering, deadheading and feeding this month, and repeat-flowering roses should put on a show for the rest of the growing season.

Thanks to the UK’s increasingly hot summers, the RHS is considering relocating its Wisley hydrangeas to its northern Gardens. It’s a concerning move for hydrangea lovers in the south – but that doesn’t mean we should give up on our plants.

When you’re deciding where to plant hydrangeas, it’s always worth remembering that they’re woodland plants by nature, and they thrive in light shade. That means heatwaves and droughts are tricky conditions for the shrubs – but does that mean they’re no longer suitable for southern gardens?

Luckily, the answer is no. We spoke to RHS chief horticultural advisor Guy Barter to find out which varieties are most likely to thrive in southern gardens – and how to save the hydrangeas we already have.

This summer’s been a scorcher, and although there are ways to look after hydrangeas in a heatwave, I’ve spotted a lot of brown plants lately.

It makes sense, then, that the UK’s leading gardening charity is thinking about rehoming its RHS Wisley hydrangea collections in the north. We asked Guy about what's motivating the move.

‘RHS Wisley is a very dry area,’ Guy said. ‘It’s got very dry, sandy soil, so some hydrangea varieties in some parts of the garden can be under pressure in hot, dry weather. Rather than giving ourselves a lot of work to keep them watered and cared for, we’re thinking about relocating them to our northern gardens, where it’s moister, the soil is more water-retentive, and they’ll need less looking after.’

It’s no secret that hydrangeas are perfect for damp gardens, and that’s where they’ll put on their best displays. That’s why RHS Wisley is going to keep some hydrangeas on its north-facing slopes, for example – and you might already be growing your plants in similar conditions.

‘In many cases, hydrangeas will be growing in quite clay soil,’ said Guy. ‘They’ll be growing on north-facing slopes in light shade, perhaps from the house or a wall, so they’ll be in good condition already.’

Some species perform better in hot, dry conditions though.

‘Hydrangea paniculata is a little bit tougher than the mopheads and lacecaps, and that’s one of the ones we use a lot at Wisley,’ said Guy.

Hydrangea paniculata ‘Vanilla Fraise’, which you can buy from Gardening Express, is a popular variety. It produces gorgeous, pyramid-shaped clusters of white-to-pink flowers. For potted plants that can be moved around the garden, Guy recommended Hydrangea serrata ‘Bluebird’ (available at Thompson & Morgan) for silvery blue flowerheads.

If you’ve already planted your hydrangea and it’s struggling, Guy says a few August hydrangea care tasks can help get them back on track.

‘Keep watering, give them liquid fertiliser every fortnight if the potted ones aren’t looking good, and if they’re getting scorched, move the pot somewhere shadier,' he said.

Most importantly, Guy told us that it’s not the end of hydrangeas in the south.

‘Remember that we’re on the way down from summer now, so the nights are going to get longer and dewier, and the conditions are going to naturally get better for hydrangeas,’ Guy told us. ‘So, it’s well worth persisting and keeping them going.’

What you'll need

The RHS' news isn't a sentence for hydrangeas in the south, but it does mean it's wise to become more mindful about the way we grow the shrubs and the varieties that perform best in tough summers.

For most of us, this summer has been all about ‘hot weather’ gardening, and trying desperately to keep our plants and flowers alive and watered in the heatwave. My thirsty hydrangeas are suffering most – and as they are one of my favourites (in fact one of the first things I ever planted) – I’m keen to get some expert advice on what to do with hydrangeas in August so that I can keep them thriving.

‘When summer temperatures climb into the 20s and 30s, certain garden plants need extra help handling the heat,’ says Shelley Davis, flower expert at Flying Flowers. ‘Hydrangeas (which literally translates to ‘water vessel’) are particularly thirsty, so require extra care when it comes to what to do with hydrangeas in a heatwave.’

‘In August, your focus is all about making sure your hydrangeas will look their best for the rest of the summer,’ agrees David Denyer, flower and garden expert at Eflorist. ‘They are in full bloom at this time of year, so watering and feeding are priorities over heavy pruning.’

1. Deep water in hot weather

‘Living up to their ‘water vessel’ name, hydrangeas need consistent moisture to survive the summer heat,’ says Shelley. ‘During July and the hotter months, focus on deep watering at the base of the plant once or twice a week rather than light, daily surface sprays. A good tip is to test the top two inches of soil and, if it feels dry, then it’s time to water them.’

‘A top tip is to reuse an old plastic bottle with the bottom cut off, and carefully place it in a hole upside down next to your hydrangea plant as far as you can so the top is slightly above the soil line. After watering normally, fill the bottle up, as this will gradually seep out deeper and closer to the main roots. This is ideal when there’s a hosepipe ban or heatwave to keep the plant constantly hydrated,’ adds Shelley.

‘If you’re enjoying cut stems and notice the flowers starting to wilt, try dunking the entire flower head upside down in a bowl or sink of cool water for around 20 minutes,’ advises Shelley. ‘Hydrangeas can actually absorb water directly through their petals, making this quick bath the ultimate trick to plump drooping blooms right back to life.’

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2. Avoid watering in the heat of the day

‘When it comes to watering in hot weather, timing is all important,’ says Chris Bonnet, founder of Gardening Express. ‘Hydrangeas need deep watering at the base of the plant early in the morning to soak the roots. The large leaves lose moisture quickly during summer heatwaves and if the plant uses up its water supply, the blooms will droop and foliage will scorch and turn brown.’

David Denyer agrees: Watering first thing in the morning or the last thing at night is advisable. That way you’ll ensure that as much moisture as possible reaches the roots instead of evaporating in the sun. Hydrangeas are naturally thirsty and can begin to wilt during long periods of hot and dry weather, so a deep soak once or twice a week, rather than little and often, is best.

3. Mulch to lock-in moisture

‘During hot weather, applying a layer of organic mulch around the base of your hydrangeas can make a real difference,’ says David. ‘Garden compost or well-rotted bark helps lock in moisture to the surrounding soil, reduces evaporation, and keeps roots cooler.’

‘Topping up mulch around your hydrangeas will help the plant retain soil moisture and survive the hot weather,’ says Chris. ‘The mulch helps with moisture retention, keeps the soil cooler and helps prevent weeds from germinating.’

‘While there are different types of mulch, opting for an organic mulch, such as RocketGro Organic Magic Mulch, £14.59, Amazon, or bark chips, around the base of the shrub to help the soil retain essential water through the heat,’ advises Shelley. ‘Just be sure to leave a small gap around the main stems to prevent rotting and allow fresh water to reach the roots easily.’

‘Hydrangeas are also acid-loving plants, so sprinkle used coffee grounds around the base of the plant, give the soil a turnover and mix in the grounds,’ adds Shelley. ‘Your hydrangea will thank you for a little extra nutrient boost.’

Shop for top-rated mulch

4. Shield hydrangeas from the sun

‘During intense heatwaves, hydrangeas planted in full sun may need a temporary shield against the elements as direct, scorching rays can quickly burn leaves and ruin delicate blooms,’ advises Shelley.

‘Setting up a patio umbrella or plant parasol, like this adjustable plant umbrella, £7.89 from Amazon, or draping a light cotton sheet or horticultural fleece over the shrub during peak afternoon heat works wonders at shading plants. Just make sure the shade cover hovers a couple of feet above the plant. If it sits directly on top, heat gets trapped underneath, creating an accidental sauna that can damage the leaves.’

‘And if you are growing hydrangeas in a pot, consider relocating to a shaded area during intense, hot periods,’ adds Shelley.

5. Tidy up plants but don’t hard prune

‘It’s a common hydrangea pruning mistake, but it’s important not to cut your hydrangeas back too early, says David. ‘Hard pruning hydrangeas during August might impact flower buds that have begun growing on old wood, and you don’t want to sacrifice next summer's blooms by being too hasty now.’

‘If the flowers on your plants start to fade, try deadheading individual blooms instead of removing every flower. Ageing hydrangea heads produce eye-catching pink and green tones during autumn months, so you may want to keep them,’ adds David.

‘Late July and August can be the prime time to give your hydrangeas a light haircut,’ advises Shelley. ‘But do make sure you check which variety you have first.’

‘Old-wood hydrangeas like mopheads, lacecaps, and oakleaf can have a tidy up before the end of the month, but new-wood varieties like paniculata and Annabelle should be left to prune in late winter or early spring.’

‘Just be careful not to go overboard,’ adds Shelley. ‘Heavy pruning hydrangeas in midsummer can rob you of next year’s flowers, which defeats the purpose. It’s all about a light touch and, if you’re in doubt, stick to removing faded or damaged flower heads and tidying up stray branches.’

‘Leaving faded blooms on mophead hydrangeas will help protect new buds from damage,’ adds Chris. ‘But when it comes to pruning climbing hydrangeas, prune these after flowering has finished (typically late July or August), which gives the plant time to develop fresh wood and new flower buds for the following year. It will also keep the plant looking neat and tidy for the remainder of the summer.’

How are your hydrangeas faring this summer? Let us know how you have been looking after them in the hot weather.

Did you know that you can water some plants with coffee? It’s a weird one, but it makes sense when you look at the science behind it.

We know that a few plants love coffee grounds, but watering plants with coffee is a different approach to simply mixing the grounds into your compost or mulch. I don’t mean water with pure coffee – that’s a little bit too far – but you can dilute leftover coffee with water and feed it to your acid-loving plants in moderation, with a small number of benefits.

‘While used coffee grounds have their place in the garden, liquid coffee should be used much more cautiously,’ says Andrew Jackson, award-winning garden writer, designer and creator of The New Build Manifesto. ‘Most plants simply don’t need it, and too much can alter soil chemistry or inhibit growth. If you do want to experiment, only use heavily diluted, black coffee occasionally and only on acid-loving plants.’

Here’s a list of plants you can water with coffee, with a few additional tips from the experts.

Acid-loving plant essentials

1. Camellias

I didn’t expect to see camellias on a list of plants you can water with coffee, but it actually makes a lot of sense given their origins. They're acid-loving plants that glean a few benefits from the properties coffee has to offer.

‘These woodland shrubs thrive in acidic, humus-rich soils,’ says Andrew. ‘A very occasional application of diluted coffee may provide a small nutrient boost alongside organic matter.’

Of course, coffee isn’t a substitute for other fertilisers and composts, and Andrew says you should always focus on improving the soil with leaf mould or ericaceous compost first. Levington Peat Free Ericaceous Compost from Amazon, for example, will provide your camellia with the conditions it needs to flower well.

‘Coffee should only ever be an occasional supplement, not a replacement for good soil preparation,’ Andrews adds.

2. Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons are another woodland plant that thrives in acidic soils, so they're suited to occasional watering with coffee, too.

‘Coffee grounds are best for acid-loving plants like rhododendrons and azaleas, as they prefer slightly more acidic soil,’ says Jo McGarry, luxury garden design expert from Caragh Nurseries.

‘If you've got leftover black coffee, you can use that too, but let it cool completely and dilute it with water first. I'd avoid using coffee with milk or sugar in the garden because it can attract pests and encourage mould.’

There are a few other ways to use coffee grounds in the garden, too, from composting to keeping pests at bay.

3. Blueberries

If you’ve ever learned how to grow blueberries, you’ll probably remember that they’re an acid-loving crop – so it makes sense that you can water them with coffee.

‘Blueberries thrive in acidic soil, and watering with coffee can help to maintain an acidic soil pH while providing the plant with a small boost of nitrogen,’ says Richard Barker, horticultural expert at LBS Horticulture.

‘Only water blueberries with coffee weekly or once every two weeks, as the high acidity can begin to harm the plant over time. Do not give blueberries undiluted coffee, as it needs to be watered down to a 1:1 or 1:2 ratio of water.’

There are other, arguably more effective, ways to maintain a healthy pH for your blueberries, though.

‘If you’re growing blueberries in containers, continue using ericaceous compost and rainwater wherever possible,’ says Andrew. ‘These will have a much greater impact than coffee.’

4. Hydrangeas

It’s semi-common knowledge that you can keep a hydrangea blue or red according to the acidity of the soil, so it makes sense that some hydrangeas already tolerate soils with a lower pH – and that’s exactly what watering with coffee can achieve. Just don’t expect huge results.

‘Hydrangeas growing in naturally acidic soil can benefit from the occasional application of diluted coffee, as they prefer a lower soil pH,’ says Andrew. ‘However, coffee alone won’t dramatically change flower colour, so don’t rely on it to turn pink flowers blue.’

Andrew recommends using one part cooled black coffee to four or five parts water, no more than once a month during active growth.

5. Roses

We recently talked about the benefits of coffee grounds for roses, and although you shouldn't water them with coffee directly, you can actually make your own feed using leftover grounds and water.

'Make your DIY liquid fertiliser by steeping two cups of used coffee grounds in five gallons of water overnight, and then straining to remove any solid particles,' says Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation. You'd then dilute this concentrate with water, using a ratio of 1:1.

'Your coffee ‘tea’ will mainly provide nitrogen and trace amounts of potassium and phosphorus, but your roses also need additional phosphorus and potassium, plus iron and calcium, to thrive, so it should only be used alongside other feeds to ensure your roses receive the full range of nutrients they require,' says Lucie.

Miracle-Gro Premium Rose & Shrub Continuous Release Plant Food, which you can buy from Amazon, can be used between March and September to give your roses the nutrients they need to thrive.

So, you can water plants with coffee – but only if they're acid-loving, and you water black coffee right down!

Nothing ruins a relaxing evening in my garden faster than mosquitoes buzzing about. When I hear the little whine near my ear, I'm straight back inside, as for some reason they love me, but the feeling isn't mutual.

Unbeknownst to me, I've actually been fighting back all along. I originally planted catmint by my seating area because I wanted a pollinator-friendly display, and if I'm being honest, my cat absolutely loves it too. It turns out, though, that accidental placement is exactly what experts recommend if you want this mosquito-repellent plant to help keep mosquitoes at bay.

Sitting in the planter and in pots, experts recommend giving the leaves a little rub and brushing past the ones closer to the ground every day so they're perfectly positioned to release the natural oils whenever the leaves are disturbed. Which is, in fact, the secret to making catmint work in the fight against mozzies.

How catmint can help keep mosquitoes away

Catmint (or Nepeta) contains a naturally occurring compound called nepetalactone, which experts say mosquitoes find irritating.

Gardening expert Lucie Bradley from Easy Garden Irrigation explains that the plant only releases this natural defence when its leaves are disturbed.

'It is only brushing against the plants which releases the scent to then act as a deterrent,' she explains. 'There is no point simply placing a pot containing a catmint plant on your patio and expecting it to repel mosquitoes just because it's there. It needs to be brushed against, or its leaves rubbed to release the natural oils.'

Shop mosquito repelling varieties

Where I've planted my catmint

My catmint (Nepeta 'Six Hills Giant', from £9.99 at Thompson & Morgan) in the large planter sits beside my outdoor seating where it's within reach, and I have a few more posts dotted around the patio so I naturally give them a rub or quick fly-by.

According to Richard Barker, horticulture expert at LBS Horticulture, that's exactly where the plant works best.

'Planting catmint near seating areas, patios or doorways can be beneficial because it makes the leaves easily reachable for crushing when you are outdoors. Brushing the plant as you walk by will release some of the scent into the air, but this is not as effective as crushing the leaves.'

Luxury garden designer Jo McGarry from Caragh Nurseries recommends placing it where you spend the most time outdoors. 'Catmint is a great plant to have on the patio, especially if you're looking for natural ways to make your outdoor space a bit more comfortable in summer,' she explains.

Lucie agrees that positioning is everything, recommending growing catmint close to seating areas or in borders surrounding patios where the foliage can be brushed regularly. She adds that once the oils are released, they remain effective for around 20 to 30 minutes before you'll need to disturb the leaves again.

While the mosquito-repelling properties may have persuaded me to buy more catmint, I'd happily grow it for its looks alone. The lavender-blue flower spikes soften the edges of my patio perfectly, flower for months and attract plenty of bees.

And as Jo points out, that's what makes it such a worthwhile addition. She explains that it's not a magic solution, and it won't stop every mozzie from showing up, but it's an easy plant to add alongside other ways of keeping them away (like using scent). Plus it looks lovely while it's doing the job.

It's also refreshingly low-maintenance, says Jo. 'It loves a sunny spot, copes well if you forget to water it now and then and flowers for months. If you're growing it in pots, I'd keep them close to where you sit so you can enjoy both the flowers and the extra benefit when you're eating and relaxing outside.'

Lucie also recommends choosing Nepeta cataria (also known as catnip), which you can pick up at Crocus for £7.99 for a 9cm pot, if mosquito deterrence is your priority, as it contains particularly high levels of nepetalactone, while the popular 'Walker's Low' variety, from £8.99 at Crocus, offers beautiful lavender-blue flower spikes and the same easy-going nature.

Whether you're battling mosquitoes or simply looking for one of the best low-maintenance container plants to grow, catmint ticks an impressive number of boxes. It's a beautiful cottage garden plant, it's easy to care for, and it's wildlife-friendly.

So, if rubbing a few leaves before settling down outside helps keep the mozzies away, that's a gardening trick I'll happily keep up all summer.

This summer, I’ve been absolutely charmed by one plant that’s woven itself around my mum’s garden: a delicate, creeping sedum.

I’ve always been an advocate for learning how to grow sedums, because they’re climate-resilient plants and a hit with pollinators, but I was stunned by the volume of sedum in my mum’s garden – and how it all started from one plant.

As it turns out, some sedums are self-seeding, which means they’ll expand your collection for you – and my mum has very cleverly divided parts of the plant up and scattered it in her borders, planters and even gravel for a wild, naturalistic look. Here’s why I’ll be taking a leaf (a succulent one) out of her book.

White stonecrop (Sedum album) is the drought-tolerant plant my mum began her sedum collection with. It produces masses of tiny white flowers during the summer, and the succulent leaves are beautiful in their own right – bean-shaped, green, pink and purple. The closest I’ve found on the internet are these Sedum album plants from Etsy.

I first spotted white stonecrop growing in a small pot on the gravel area of my mum’s garden, spilling over the edges as a beautiful trailing plant. Then, I noticed that the succulent foliage was continuing onto the gravel itself, sewing itself between the stones. It sort of reminded me of Cath Kidston’s patio garden, in which Erigeron grows between the cracks and gaps in the pavers. My mum said the white stonecrop has been popping up everywhere, self-seeding itself all over the gravel.

'For smaller spaces or gravel gardens, white stonecrop (Sedum album) is excellent,' says Andrew Jackson, award-winning garden writer, designer and creator of The New Build Manifesto. 'It self-seeds readily into gaps between paving and walls, creating a living carpet that’s both drought-tolerant and attractive to pollinators.'

Then, my mum pointed me in the direction of her garden border, where a fizz of the same delicate flowers was lining the area by her bug house. The sedum was growing happily there, too, from a section of the original plant that my mum had divided.

There was also a small white stonecrop plant growing in a wooden crate, which looked right at home beneath her iconic succulent planter. My mum truly is the queen of succulent-growing – even inside, her alpine arrangements are thriving – and she’s mastered the art of growing succulents outdoors, too.

White stonecrop is the variety my mum grows, but there are a few other self-seeding sedums that will spread in a similar way.

'Biting stonecrop (Sedum acre) is another tough native species that happily colonises sunny, free-draining spots, producing bright yellow flowers that are loved by bees,' suggests Andrew. You can order a Sedum acre plant from Thompson & Morgan.

'The real benefit of self-seeding sedums is that they soften hard edges and gradually knit a garden together without becoming invasive,' Andrew adds.

Other sedums can be easily divided and planted up around the garden.

'Sedum 'Autumn Joy' is a favourite because it brings colour later in the year when lots of other flowers are starting to fade,' says Jo McGarry, luxury garden design expert from Caragh Nurseries. 'While it doesn't self-seed quite as freely as some of the smaller stonecrops, it forms larger clumps that are easy to divide and spread around the garden.'

Get the look

Self-seeding sedums like white stonecrop are a fantastic way to achieve naturalistic planting without lifting a finger. Plus, they're brilliant for pollinating insects and summer colour.

There's nothing more beautiful than a country cottage garden – all of those gorgeous varieties that offer an untamed look that our pollinators adore too.

The best bit is that some varieties self-seed. 'Self-seeding cottage garden flowers are brilliant because they do half the work for you and help fill borders for free,' says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. 'Some will settle in happily and come back year after year, while others will gently move around the garden and surprise you in new spots.'

If you're on a budget and want to embrace these wonderful flowers, then read on to find out which self-seeding flower varieties should be top of your list.

1. Foxgloves

There's not much more quintessentially cottage garden than the foxglove, with its stunning spires of flowers that tower over other varieties; it looks wonderful against stone cottage walls.

'Whilst most foxgloves are biennials, producing roots and foliage in their first year and flowers in their second year, once these plants start to self-seed you will naturally create the illusion of blooms every year from then on,' says Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation.

According to Lucie, a single foxglove can produce up to two million minuscule, dust-like seeds once their distinctive tubular, bell-shaped blooms have faded. 'When they finish flowering from July onwards, their seed pods form, dry and crack open in late August or early September to scatter their seeds, which are light enough for the wind to naturally disperse them around your garden borders,' shares Lucie.

There are quite a few different colours to choose from; we love the colour of this Suttons Apricot foxglove, currently £5.99 for a one-litre pot from Gardening Express.

For a more classic look, consider the Dalmatian Mixed variety, which comes in pots or as plug plants, from £7.99, Thompson & Morgan.

2. Forget-me-knots

'For shadier spots, I'd look at forget-me-nots,' suggests Liam Cleary, gardening expert at the Old Railway Line Garden Centre. 'They're brilliant at filling awkward gaps beneath shrubs or around trees, and because they self-seed so freely, you end up with carpets of blue each spring with very little effort.'

Richard Barker, horticultural expert at LBS Horticulture, agrees, 'Most varieties of forget-me-not are biennial, so they will self-seed. Although seedlings can be pulled up and replanted, you can collect seeds from the plant. When the seed pods turn brown, gently snip them off the stems and place them into a paper bag. Shake the bag to separate the seeds from the chaff, and then store them until ready for planting.'

You can buy forget-me-knots, and we love Amazon's Forget Me Knot Myosotis alpine mix; you get six large plug plants for £14.99.

3. Nigella

Nigella, sometimes called 'love-in-a-mist ', produces seeds that can be collected easily from the seed pods.

Richard explains, 'When the pods turn brown and papery, this indicates that the seeds are ripe and ready to collect. Alternatively, you can leave the seed pods on the plant, and they will eventually dry out and split open to scatter seeds across your garden. However, it is best to collect seeds yourself because the plant can develop a long taproot, which makes it harder to move them once established.'

The sky blue variety of Nigella is perhaps the most well-known. Crocus sell Miss Jekyll seeds, three packets for £6; they're an easy-to-grow variety and great for beginner gardeners. We also love the pastel pink version, Miss Jekyll Rose, 1000 seeds for £1.69, Amazon; they will flower from July to approximately September and love full sun.

4. Lupins

Lupins are a hardy perennial that, once established, is low maintenance. They come in a great selection of colours too.

'Their pea-like flowers are a rich source of pollen, which makes them great pollinator magnets with their tall spires,' says Lucie. 'With long tap roots making then drought tolerant and prolific self-seeders, they will naturally populate your garden, forming gorgeous, free-flowing spaces of colour in May and June, and repeat flowering in August if you have the chance to cut back the spires once faded.'

Lucie recommends the West Country varieties for their robustness; Persian Slipper is one that has blue flowers, £12.99 for a 9cm pot, Crocus, and the bi-coloured Tequila Flame, £27.99 for three established plants, Amazon.

5. Calendula

Calendula is one of those useful plants that has healing properties – it's anti-inflammatory and soothes and heals skin; you can often find it in creams to heal minor wounds.

As a plant, it loves full sun and can do well in poor soil, so it's rather forgiving and easy to grow.

'Calendula is one I'd recommend to almost anyone as a self-seeder,' says Liam. 'It flowers for months, the pollinators love it, and it's incredibly generous when it comes to self-seeding. You will likely find fresh seedlings popping up the following spring without you having to put in any effort whatsoever.'

It's mostly known for its yellowy orange flower heads that are rather daisy-like; you can buy 100 seeds for £2.79 of the English marigold variety from Crocus. For a mix of orange and yellow colours, have a look at Amazon's Calypso mixed mini plug plants; you get 20 for £15.99.

Cottage garden shopping essentials

These self-seeding plants will give you so much joy in your cottage garden over the coming years. Invest in them now, and they'll bring you colour and free flowers to boot.

I love hydrangeas, so I have planted quite a few varieties in our garden over the past few years. Usually, at this time of the year, my garden is blooming with puffball flowers of different shades, but this year's been a little different.

I've noticed my mophead hydrangea in my front border is struggling. Its once pristine white flowers have started developing brown patches, with some petals looking dry and crispy around the edges. I thought it might have been because it had simply finished flowering, but with so many of its blooms changing colour at once, I was suspicious there was something else going on.

After speaking to a few gardening experts, it turns out there are several reasons why my hydrangeas are turning brown, and thanks to this summer's prolonged hot weather, they say more hydrangeas are turning brown than ever before. So, I don't think I'm alone! Here's their advice on why it's happening and what to do about it.

1. Heat and strong sunshine

If your hydrangea has been flowering beautifully before suddenly developing brown, papery petals during a spell of hot weather, heat stress is probably to blame.

'Whilst we are experiencing heatwave conditions, hydrangeas are likely to be turning brown due to them being scorched by the intense, direct sunlight,' explains Lucie Bradley, gardening expert at Easy Garden Irrigation. She says hydrangea flowers are particularly delicate, especially mophead and lacecap varieties, with tissue-paper-thin petals that dry out quickly when exposed to prolonged sunshine.

It's not just the flowers that suffer either. Lucie says leaves can wilt, curl and develop crispy brown edges when they're exposed to too much direct sun or drying winds.

That certainly sounds like what has happened to mine. While the shrub itself still looks healthy, the blooms that catch the strongest afternoon sun are the ones browning first.

Jo McGarry, luxury garden design expert at Caragh Nurseries, agrees that placement makes a huge difference. 'Hydrangeas tend to do best somewhere with morning sun and a bit of shade during the hottest part of the day. Too much intense afternoon sun can scorch the flowers and leaves, which can cause those brown patches.'

2. Hydrangeas are thirstier than you might think

The recent dry weather has also made caring for hydrangeas in a heatwave a priority, and more specifically, watering is far more important than usual.

Lucie explains that hydrangeas have relatively shallow roots, making them particularly vulnerable when the soil dries out. During prolonged hot spells, they lose moisture through their leaves faster than they can replace it, causing the plant to go into survival mode. While many hydrangeas recover overnight after wilting, repeated drought stress eventually leaves flowers and foliage brown and crispy.

Richard Barker, horticultural expert at LBS Horticulture, says a lack of water is one of the biggest reasons hydrangea flowers deteriorate in summer. 'Hydrangeas are moisture-loving plants, and most varieties will need deep, frequent watering through summer to stop them from deteriorating. A lack of water can quickly turn flowers brown, as the plant needs consistent moisture to maintain its flowers.'

He adds that brown leaf tips often accompany browned flowers and recommends aiming for around an inch of water each week during the dry periods. While damaged blooms won't recover, a watering routine can help protect any flowers that are still healthy.

The best thing you can do is to give them a deep watering, especially during dry periods, rather than sprinkling the surface. Adding a layer of mulch (we love RocketGro's Magic Mulch, £14.99 at Amazon) around the base of the plant can help keep moisture in the soil for longer.'

Hydrangea care essentials

3. Other causes worth checking

While heat and drought are by far the most likely explanation this year, experts say there are a few other possibilities.

Lucie warns that overfeeding can cause fertiliser burn, particularly if you've applied a feed that's high in nitrogen. This often results in brown, crispy leaf edges alongside lush green growth but fewer flowers.

She also says fungal diseases such as leaf spot (which I think my plant has), botrytis blight and anthracnose can leave brown blotches on leaves and flowers. However, because these diseases thrive in warm, damp and humid conditions, they're much less likely during dry weather. Plants that are already stressed by heat can still become vulnerable, though, particularly if they're watered from overhead and the foliage remains wet.

Richard also recommends checking carefully for pests if watering and sunlight don't seem to be the issue.

'Hydrangeas can often be targeted by aphids and spider mites, which can cause damage to the flowers, leaves and stems,' he says. Spider mites can be difficult to spot, so look for fine webbing and a dusty residue beneath leaves. Neem oil or insecticidal soap (this handy spray version is easy to use, £14.99 at Amazon) can help prevent infestations from spreading.

What I'm doing to help my hydrangea recover

Lucie recommends checking the soil moisture regularly before watering and directing water at the base of the plant rather than over the leaves. She also suggests applying a 5 - 8 cm layer of organic mulch, such as compost, leaf mould or Strulch (from £19.99 at Thompson & Morgan), to keep the soil cooler and reduce moisture loss.

Because my shrub sits in a particularly sunny spot during the afternoon, I'll also be trying to give it some temporary shade whenever another heatwave arrives. Lucie says even positioning a patio parasol nearby or suspending an old sheet or shade netting above the plant between 10 am and 4 pm can help prevent further scorch. You could even pick up these cute little plant umbrellas, £11.54 at Amazon.

She also recommends removing the brown flowers completely using clean bypass secateurs (we really rate these Japanese Kimura secateurs, £24.99 at Amazon), cutting just above the first healthy pair of buds or leaves. Likewise, leaves that are more than halfway brown can be removed, but any with plenty of green should be left in place to continue producing energy for the plant.

If your hydrangea is growing in a container, simply moving it into a shadier position can make a noticeable difference. For shrubs planted in borders, though, Lucie advises waiting until autumn before relocating them, as moving a stressed hydrangea during summer can lead to transplant shock.

As disappointing as it is to see my once-white flowers turning brown, I feel reassured to know that it's probably just a response to this summer's hot weather. With plenty of deep watering, my favourite mulch and a little sun protection, I'm hoping my shrub will stay healthy and be ready to put on another cloud-like display next year.

Lavender is a staple in any drought-tolerant garden, which means it’s perfectly suited to the hot weather we’re having this summer. Can you plant lavender in July, though?

Well, according to experts, you can – you’ll just need to complete a few preparatory tasks beforehand. Learning how to grow lavender is pretty easy, because it’s so low-maintenance, but it still needs a little extra help settling into the garden when the weather is hot and dry.

‘Whilst July isn’t the best time to plant Lavender, if you’ve been given a plant by a friend or need to fill an empty space and must plant during this month, then there are a few things which you can do to make the process as successful as possible and reduce the stress for your plant,’ says Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation.

So, under what conditions can you plant lavender in July? Here’s what the experts recommend.

What you'll need

1. Keep new plants well-watered

Lavender might be a hardy Mediterranean plant once established, but it'll struggle to establish itself in hot, dry weather.

’Dry weather means your plant will lose more moisture from its leaves than its roots can supply, which makes a new plant vulnerable to transplant shock and could result in your lavender wilting, dropping leaves and even struggling to survive,’ explains Lucie.

That doesn’t mean you can’t plant lavender in July, though – you can still buy the plants in a range of sizes, like English lavender ‘Hidcote’ from Crocus. You’ll just need to start by compensating for that lack of soil moisture.

‘You need to soak the root ball of the plant before transferring it to the ground, as well as fill the planting hole with water and allow it to soak into the soil prior to positioning the plant,’ Lucie advises.

After that, you’ll need to keep the soil moist (never waterlogged, since drought-tolerant plants hate sitting soggy). Lucie recommends deep watering the plant twice a week, avoiding wetting the foliage where possible, but always check the soil beforehand (a soil moisture meter like this one from Amazon can be a useful indicator).

2. Mulch with gravel

To lock some of that moisture in, Lucie also recommends mulching around the base of your lavender plant. Don’t reach for bags of organic matter mulch, though, since lavender tends to thrive in poor, free-draining soils.

‘If you use a light-coloured gravel or stones to act as mulch (don’t use organic mulches, as these can hold too much water to suit lavender), the light colour will help to reflect the strong July sunlight into the lower canopy of the plant,’ says Lucie. These Mellow Cotswold Decorative Stones from B&Q should do the trick.

If you want your lavender to flower well, you’ll also need to make you’re planting it in the correct position.

‘Ideally, lavender should be planted where it will receive at least six to eight hours of sunlight a day, or it will produce fewer (or no) blooms, and may grow leggy in attempt to reach the light,’ says Richard Barker, horticultural expert at LBS Horticulture.

3. Provide some shade

It might seem like a waste of time to shield a sun-loving, drought-tolerant plant from the sun, but new plants will benefit from a little extra protection while they establish themselves in your garden. As Lucie mentioned before, transplant shock is still a looming risk – but there are several ways to shade plants from the sun.

‘It’s best to shade your new plant over the first few weeks at mid-afternoon so it’s not damaged by the intense sunlight,’ says Lucie. ‘This can be done easily by using garden canes to support either shade netting, garden fleece or an old pale sheet above your plant to protect it from strong sunlight.’

You can order shade netting for plants online, like this Seedzbox Shade Netting from Amazon.

'If you’re looking to plant lavender in July, it’s important to try and minimise heat stress on the plant,' adds Chris Bonnett, founder of GardeningExpress.co.uk. 'Choose a time when there is no prolonged heatwave and temperatures are slightly cooler.

So, you can plant lavender in July – you'll just need to water it in well, add some gravel mulch around the base, and consider shielding it from the intense midday sun.

A tree makes a stunning focal point in any outside space, but choose too-large a tree for a small garden, and there’s the danger that it will completely overwhelm the space. But opt for a smaller, multi-stem tree, and it can make as striking a focal point as any large tree but while still feeling in proportion with the space. And there’s the bonus of low-maintenance multi-stem trees being much easier to look after too, so what’s not to love?

‘If your home has a small garden, then multi-stem trees are one of the best trees for small spaces, offering a really simple yet effective way to create a focal point without needing to compromise on any valuable outdoor space,’ says David Denyer, flower and garden expert at Eflorist.

‘If planning a small garden, it's worth factoring in that many varieties of multi-stem tree require little maintenance in modest gardens once established, which makes them perfect for the majority of us who probably don’t have a huge amount of time to spend tending to their garden.'

1. Silver birch