Looking to spruce up your garden before winter arrives? You’ll need a few of the best autumn-flowering shrubs for pots if you want to enjoy colour and scent at this time of the year.

I’ve listed a few of the best autumn-flowering shrubs before, but some varieties will perform better in containers than others. You’ll generally need tough, compact plants to fit the bill – and there are a beautiful selection to choose from.

I’ve rounded up a few of the best autumn-flowering shrubs for pots, recommended by the experts, to help you infuse some extra life into your garden.

What you'll need

1. Fuchsias

Fuchsias are one of my all-time favourite shrubs because they flower for such a long time (and look like fairies!). If you choose hardy varieties, they make beautiful autumn-flowering shrubs for pots.

‘One shrub which is often overlooked for autumn interest is Fuchsia, but Fuchsia magellanica will flower well into the autumn, and the intense colour of cultivars such as ‘Thalia’ work really well in low light levels,’ says Topher Martyn, head gardener at Syon Park.

‘They’re not super tough, but cold autumns seem to be a thing of the past, and they’re definitely worth a try – especially if you have a sunny corner.’

You can order a Hardy Fuchsia Collection from QVC and add the young plants to your garden now.

2. Elaeagnus

David Domoney recently recommended Elaeagnus for autumn scent, and Topher thinks it’s one of the best autumn-flowering shrubs for pots, too. The flowers are small and subtle, but they pack a real punch with their fragrance.

‘Another favourite is Elaeagnus, which is available with a variety of leaf colours and variegations,’ says Topher.

‘One real star is Elaeagnus ‘Gilt Edge’, where the leaves have a delicate golden margin, but there’s a good number of choices available. Best of all, they’re tough as old boots, and while the flowers are tiny, the fragrance is intense and fills the air on a still autumn day.’

Elaeagnus ebbingei 'Maryline' (available at Gardening Express) is another top contender if you’re on the hunt for fragrant shrubs to plant in October.

3. Heather

Despite their name, many winter-flowering heathers burst into bloom from late autumn. They’re a recommendation from Dave The Plantman, in conjunction with outdoor garden pottery manufacturer Mims Pottery, for gardeners looking for autumn-flowering shrubs for pots.

‘Winter-flowering Erica are grown for their foliage and flowers in many different colours,’ says Dave. ‘They can be bought in 9cm, one-litre and larger pots, as well as six-packs.’

If you don't want to wait until late November, you can buy Calluna heathers like this pack of 3 plants from B&Q for autumn blooms.

4. Viburnum

Another late autumn favourite, Viburnum tinus thrives in pots and produces delicate flowers from November through winter. It's a shining example of container plants that burst into bloom by Christmas.

‘Viburnum tinus is a brilliant evergreen shrub or small tree with clusters of white or pink-tinged flowers that emerge from late autumn and carry right through winter,’ says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. ‘Compact and easy to grow, it thrives particularly well in a sheltered spot.’

Viburnum tinus is readily available in a range of sizes at Crocus.

Autumn-flowering shrubs can really brighten a garden up as the weather turns cold. For year-round structure, it's worth planting evergreen shrubs in October, too.

With so much of the garden fading fast and dying back right now, it can be tempting to get busy with the secateurs and cut everything down for a neat look. But while many plants benefit from an autumnal pruning, there are certain plants you should never prune in October…and knowing the difference is crucial.

‘A tidy garden does not have to mean a completely bare one,’ says Pim Dickson, Senior Horticulturalist at Fothergill’s. ‘When it comes to October gardening jobs, it's a great time to remove diseased foliage, clear away rotting material and deal with damaged branches, but healthy stems, faded flowers and seedheads often have a purpose.’

‘One of the biggest mistakes people can make is reaching for the secateurs too quickly, as pruning at the wrong time can mean losing next year’s flowers and leaving plants more vulnerable to frost. By leaving the right plants untouched until spring, gardeners can protect them through winter and give themselves a better chance of enjoying a healthy, colourful garden next year.’

1. Hydrangeas

‘Hydrangeas are one of the most important plants to leave alone in autumn, especially mophead and lacecap varieties,’ says Pim. ‘These shrubs develop next year’s flowers on existing stems, so cutting them back in October can remove the buds needed for this.’

‘The faded flowerheads are also worth keeping in place as they can help protect the delicate buds beneath from frost. Instead, wait until mid-spring to prune hydrangeas, removing the old blooms and cutting back to the first healthy pair of buds.’

When it comes to what to do with hydrangeas in October, advice from the experts is to hold back on pruning, watering and feeding and instead focus on giving the roots some extra protection by adding a layer of mulch, like this RocketGro Magic Mulch, from £19.99, Thompson & Morgan, around the base of the plant.

Where to buy hydrangeas

• Hydrangea 'Limelight', from £21.99, Gardeners Dream
• Hydrangea macrophylla 'Pimpernel', £19.99, Gardening Express
• Hydrangea arborescens 'Incrediball', from £25.16, Sarah Raven

2. Spring-flowering shrubs

‘Spring-flowering shrubs, such as forsythia and lilac, should also be left unpruned in October,’ advises Pim. ‘Many of these plants form their flower buds on the previous season’s growth, meaning an autumn trim can sacrifice the very flowers gardeners are hoping to enjoy in spring.’

‘The best time to prune spring-flowering shrubs is immediately after flowering in late spring or early summer, giving the plant plenty of time to produce new growth and set buds for the following year.’

If there are dead or diseased stems that need attention, these can be carefully cut back, either to the ground or back to a healthy side branch, but general pruning should always be left until spring. Check if stems are healthy by scraping the outer bark with your thumbnail - if the layer underneath is dry, brown and brittle, the stem is dead; if it is green and moist, the stem is still alive.

Where to buy spring-flowering shrubs

• Forsythia × intermedia 'Lynwood Variety', from £12.50, Crocus
• Double Flower Lilac Collection, £29.27, J. Parker's
• Azalea Japonica Arabesk, £15.99, Gardening Express

3. Lavender

‘Although lavender benefits from regular pruning to maintain its shape and prevent it becoming woody, a hard autumn cut can expose older stems that are less able to regenerate, while fresh growth may be damaged by cold weather,’ advises Pim.

‘The main shaping cut when it comes to how to prune lavender, is best carried out after flowering in late summer, taking care not to cut deeply into bare growth. For what to do with lavender in October, simply remove any broken or diseased material and leave more substantial pruning until the warmer months.'

Where to buy lavender

• Lavender 'Hidcote', £9.99, Gardeners Dream
• English Lavender 'Munstead', £4, Roots Plants
• Lavandula × intermedia 'Grosso', from £17.99, RHS Plants

4. Ornamental grasses

‘The dry foliage and feathery seedheads of deciduous varieties of ornamental grasses can bring structure to a winter garden, catch the frost and provide food and shelter for wildlife,’ says Pim.

‘Cutting down ornamental grasses too early in October removes these benefits and can leave the plant’s crown more exposed to winter conditions. Leave the old growth standing until late winter or early spring, then cut it back before the new shoots emerge.’

Where to buy ornamental grasses

• Pennisetum × advena 'Rubrum', £7.99, Gardening Express
• Miscanthus Sinensis Kleine Silberspinne, £4.99, Primrose
• Stipa 'Pony Tails' Feather Deciduous Perennial, £17.99, Amazon

5. Evergreen shrubs

‘October is often a tempting time to tidy the garden, but it’s worth resisting the urge to prune certain plants,’ advises Charlotte McGrattan, Hardy Nursery Stock Buyer at Hillier Nurseries. ‘Evergreen shrubs such as viburnum tinus and viburnum ‘coppertop’ are best left alone at this time of year, while choisya ‘sundance’ and escallonia should also be left until after flowering if they need shaping.

‘Pruning evergreen shrubs like these now can remove developing buds and reduce the plant’s natural protection going into winter,’ adds Charlotte.

The best time to cut back evergreen shrubs is mid to late spring, after any risk of frost has passed and just before new spring growth begins.

Where to buy evergreen shrubs

• Viburnum tinus 'Eve Price', from £5.99, J. Parker's
• Viburnum odoratissimum 'Coppertop', from £14.99.
• Escallonia 'Trulli', £34.99, Dobies

6. Late-flowering perennials

‘Finally, it is worth leaving many late-flowering herbaceous perennials standing over winter rather than cutting every stem down to ground level,’ suggests Pim. ‘Plants with attractive seedheads, such as echinacea and rudbeckia, can provide food for birds over winter, while hollow stems and fallen foliage offer shelter for beneficial insects. Their dried flowerheads can also add height and texture to an otherwise bare winter border. Once new growth begins to appear in spring, gardeners can cut back the old stems carefully without damaging emerging shoots.’

Charlotte agrees: ‘Late-flowering herbaceous perennials, such as Japanese anemones, provide valuable structure and interest through the colder months. These can all be tidied at the appropriate time later in the season, rather than cutting them back in October.’

Where to buy late-flowering perennials

• Japanese Anemone 'Queen Charlotte', £9.99, You Garden
• Sedum Autumn Joy, £9.99, Primrose
• Rudbeckia 'All Sorts Mixed', from £7.99

So don't prune your hydrangeas in autumn, but give them plenty of TLC and you'll help set them up for healthy growth next spring.

As the weather cools and many plants finish flowering and fruiting for the year, it can be tempting to reach for the loppers and give your trees a trim. Can you prune trees in October, though?

Well, although you can prune several plants in October, we haven’t quite reached the dormant season yet. Typically, that’s the time between late autumn and late winter – and since it's still relatively early autumn, it’s too soon for most trees.

Still, that doesn’t mean you can’t prune any trees in October – you’ll just need to be more careful about the ones you do cut this month.

Deciduous trees might be shedding their leaves this month, but that doesn’t mean they’re ready for their annual prune. The best time to prune apple trees, for example, is during the winter – and striking too early could cause them unnecessary stress.

‘Timing really matters when it comes to pruning,’ says Gareth Mitchell, gardening expert and founder of Tree2MyDoor. ‘If you cut trees back at the wrong time of year, you risk excessive sap loss or open the tree up to the risk of disease.

‘For most trees, a light prune is all that’s needed at this time of the year. It’s just enough to keep the natural shape and remove any dead or diseased wood to keep your plant healthy over winter.’

So, which trees can you give a light prune in October?

‘October is a sensible time to check in on Japanese maples and other acers to look for any dead, damaged or crossing branches before dormancy sets in,’ says Gareth.

Although it isn’t the best time of year to prune acers, you can focus on the three Ds (dead, damaged or diseased branches) this month. Gareth says acers have a naturally attractive shape, though, so they don’t need much pruning anyway.

If you do decide to give them a light trim, you’ll need a pair of loppers like these Spear & Jackson Razorsharp Active Bypass Loppers from Amazon for thicker branches.

Gareth also mentioned that birch trees benefit from a check-over at this time of the year.

‘Birch trees are at risk of sap loss when heavily pruned in late winter and early spring, when sap flow is at its peak, which makes October a much safer time to remove small, dead or damaged branches,’ Gareth explains. ‘Branches that are crowded and rub together can be an entry point for insects and disease, so it’s best to remove them.’

For smaller branches, you can use a pair of anvil or ratchet secateurs like the Wilkinson Sword Comfort Ratcher Pruner from Amazon (they’re among the best secateurs I’ve tried).

There’s one more exception for October tree pruning: freshly planted trees.

‘Newly planted trees may also need minor corrective pruning to remove broken growth and balance out their shape,’ says Gareth.

Tree pruning kit

So, it’s best to avoid pruning the majority of trees in October, since it’s still too early – but you can give newly planted trees, birches and acers a light tidy if you really need to.

Looking for a plant that flowers over Christmas and is ultra-easy to look after?

Amaryllis is one of the most beautiful Christmas houseplants – and with its huge, showy trumpet blooms, it’s certainly the most majestic. If you want an even lower-maintenance plant, though, it’s worth considering waxed amaryllis bulbs. According to Edinburgh retailer grow urban, wax amaryllis bulb sales increased by over 500% between Christmas 2024 and 2025, highlighting a growing interest in the easy-care houseplants.

The blooms really do look after themselves, with almost zero effort from you. Here’s a little bit more about waxed amaryllis bulbs – and why they make the perfect gift for bad houseplant owners.

Where to buy waxed amaryllis bulbs

A waxed amaryllis bulb is exactly that: an amaryllis bulb coated in a protective layer of wax. Inside that layer is everything the bulb needs to thrive – and it doesn’t need anything else (not even water) to produce its signature trumpet blooms.

'Waxed amaryllis bulbs are about as close to foolproof as houseplants get,' says Jo Lambell, founder of Beards & Daisies. 'The wax coating seals in all the water and nutrients the bulb needs to flower, so you genuinely don't water it. You don't need a pot or compost either.'

You can choose from a huge range of wax colours, too, and some of them look really decorative. This Waxed Amaryllis Bulb from B&Q, for example, has a beautiful marbled effect.

You'd need to know when to plant amaryllis bulbs if you were planting them in compost, but waxed amaryllis bulbs are set to thrive from the moment you buy them.

‘They make such a lovely Christmas gift because they feel thoughtful, but they’re incredible easy to look after,’ says grow urban’s founder, Graham Savage.

It’s really as simple as keeping the bulb somewhere bright and watching it grow – and the plant lasts a lot longer than cut flowers.

‘Thick green stems emerge from the decorative wax-coated bulb before opening into large, dramatic blooms, with the plant changing noticeably as the weeks go by,’ says Graham.

'My top tip is to give it plenty of light but keep it away from radiators,' adds Jo from Beards & Daisies. 'Warmth speeds it up, but a cooler room makes the flowers last longer. Turn it every few days too, as the stem leans towards the light and you want it growing straight.'

Jo also notes that amaryllis is a toxic houseplant to cats and dogs, so make sure you keep the plant well out of pets' reach.

Waxed amaryllis bulbs make the perfect Christmas gift, or a treat to yourself that'll provide a festive display of showstopping blooms with minimal effort.

When it comes to hydrangeas, what’s not to love? With their blousy blooms, vibrant colours and long flowering period, these easy-care shrubs make a fabulous addition to any garden. And even with this year’s long, hot summer, my hydrangeas survived the heat and are still bringing some autumnal colour to my garden even now. But as the blooms start to fade, the question of what to do with hydrangeas in October arises, and I’m never quite sure whether I should be cutting back or leaving them alone when it comes to autumn hydrangea care…a question I put to the gardening experts.

‘With hydrangeas putting on their final display of the year, October is the ideal time to start preparing them for the colder months ahead,’ says Shelley Davis, plant expert at Flying Flowers. ‘But knowing what to cut back, what to leave alone, and how best to protect the plant can make all the difference when growing hydrangeas.’

Find out exactly what you should be doing to get your hydrangeas prepped for winter with our expert-approved tips below.

1. Don’t rush to prune hydrangeas in autumn

‘It might feel like the time to get the pruning shears out, but it’s worth holding off before cutting everything back,’ advises Shelley. ‘If your plant has finished flowering, you might be tempted to tidy it up straight away, but it's a classic autumn hydrangea mistake - those faded flower heads can actually provide crucial protection from winter frost, and you could accidentally snip off next year’s developing buds.’

‘Cutting back stems now can also encourage tender new growth when the plant should be preparing for winter, and it may not have enough time to harden off before the cold weather arrives. Instead, leave the old flower heads in place - you can always do a final tidy-up in late winter or early spring, depending on the type of hydrangea you have,’ adds Shelley.

2. Treat different types of hydrangea accordingly

‘One of the biggest mistakes people can make in autumn is pruning hydrangeas too enthusiastically,’ says Pim Dickson, Senior Horticulturist at Fothergills. ‘The right approach depends on the type of hydrangea you have, because different varieties flower on different growth.’

‘Traditional mophead and lacecap hydrangeas, particularly hydrangea macrophylla, develop next year’s flower buds on stems produced in the previous growing season. Cutting these stems back in October can remove those buds and leave you with fewer flowers next summer. It is generally best to leave the main stems intact and retain the faded flowerheads over winter, removing them in spring once the risk of severe frost has passed,’ advises Pim.

‘When it comes to how to prune hydrangeas, such as panicle varieties like hydrangea paniculata, then these are different because they flower on new growth. These can be pruned in spring, when you can shape the plant and encourage strong new shoots. In October, resist the temptation to cut them back hard.’

‘As a general rule, remove dead, diseased or damaged stems when necessary with secateurs, but save substantial pruning for the appropriate time of year,’ adds Pim.

3. Assess plants and plan next year’s pruning

‘October is also a good time to assess established plants and, if necessary, plan how you will prune them next year,’ advises Charlotte McGrattan, Hardy Nursery Stock Buyer at Hillier Nurseries. ‘Pruning can influence both the size of the plant and its flowers: hard pruning produces vigorous growth with fewer, larger flowerheads; moderate pruning gives intermediate growth and flower size; while light pruning, removing only the previous year’s flowerheads, encourages earlier flowering with more numerous, smaller blooms.’

‘For now, the best approach is generally to leave the plant’s faded flowerheads in place and leave cutting back until spring, which will allow the hydrangea to provide some winter interest while protecting its new growth from the colder weather,’ adds Charlotte.

Shop these pruning essentials

4. Ease-off on watering and feeding

‘As the autumn weather cools, hydrangeas naturally start to slow down, so there’s no need to treat them as though they’re still in their peak growing season,’ advises Shelley.

‘Keep an eye on the soil rather than sticking to a set watering routine. If there’s a particularly dry spell in October, give your hydrangeas a good drink, but avoid the watering mistake of leaving them sitting in soggy soil. The same goes for feeding. There’s little benefit in encouraging fresh growth just before winter, so hold off on regular fertilising and pick this back up in spring when the plant starts putting on new growth again.’

5. Give the soil a layer of mulch

‘One of the simplest things you can do for hydrangeas at this time of year is to give the soil around its roots some extra protection,’ suggests Shelley. ‘A good layer of organic mulch, such as bark, compost, or leaf mould, can help the plant cope with changing temperatures.’

‘Mulching is a quick and easy job that can make such a difference during winter months, helping the soil hold onto moisture and keeping the roots more insulated as the ground starts to freeze. Make sure to spread the mulch around the base of the plant, but avoid piling it directly against the stems. Leaving a small gap around the base helps prevent the area from becoming excessively damp,’ adds Shelley.

‘Mulching is one of the most useful jobs you can do for hydrangeas in October,’ agrees Pim. ‘Applying a layer of organic matter, such as well-rotted garden compost, around the base helps the soil retain moisture, improves soil structure over time and provides some insulation for the roots as temperatures drop.’

‘Before mulching, remove any persistent weeds and water the soil if it is particularly dry. Spread a layer around the root area, ideally a few centimetres deep, but leave a small gap around the main stems rather than piling material against the crown. This helps reduce the risk of excess moisture encouraging rot.’

Shop for mulch

6. Give potted hydrangeas some winter protection

‘Hydrangeas planted in the ground are generally well protected by the surrounding soil, but hydrangeas growing in pots or containers are much more exposed to cold temperatures, particularly around their roots,’ says Shelley.

‘Think about where your pots or containers are sitting as we head into winter. Moving them to a sheltered spot close to the house can help protect hydrangeas from cold winds and the worst of the weather, while still giving them enough light. It’s also worth checking that the pot has good drainage, as cold, waterlogged compost can cause just as many problems as dry soil.’

‘Container-grown hydrangeas need a little more attention because their roots are more exposed to cold than those growing in the ground,’ says Pim. ‘Move pots to a sheltered spot, such as close to a house wall, and consider insulating the container itself, but ensuring excess water can drain away.’

‘Resist the urge to repot hydrangeas simply because autumn has arrived,’ says Pim. ‘If the plant is healthy, it is generally better to minimise root disturbance and concentrate on keeping it protected until conditions improve in spring.’

‘And with increased rainfall in October, it’s easy to forget watering hydrangeas in containers, but be sure to check them regularly and prevent them drying out at this crucial time of year,’ adds Pim.

So don't prune your hydrangeas in autumn, but give them plenty of TLC and you'll help set them up for healthy growth next spring.

B&Q’s seed advent calendar has returned for 2026, and after using the 2025 version, I can safely say that this one is well worth the buy.

If you’re looking for Christmas gifts for gardeners (or a treat for yourself!), the Verve Shelter Seed Advent Calendar is just £15 at B&Q. It’s a steal, given everything that’s inside: a huge range of flower, herb and vegetable seeds, and a handy little growing kit behind the 25th door. I had great fun opening the 2025 version, and I’m just as excited about this year’s now that I’ve got my hands on it.

It really is ideal for budding gardeners – and a fun novelty for the more experienced green thumbs.

B&Q’s Verve Shelter Seed Advent Calendar includes everything you need to start a small vegetable garden: a mixture of seed sachets, from peas to pumpkins, and even herbs like basil and parsley for indoor and outdoor growing.

There’s also a healthy selection of flower seeds like sunflowers and sweet peas, so you can kit your 2027 garden out with blooms you’ve grown from scratch. My two favourite companion-planting flowers are in there, too: marigolds and nasturtiums, which keep pests at bay. In fact, Ideal Home’s Editor, Rebecca Knight, had great success with the nasturtium seeds from the 2025 Verve Seed Advent Calendar (she couldn’t believe how many blooms appeared!).

If you’re wondering where to grow all of those seeds, you don’t need to order extra equipment to get them started. Behind the 25th door is a grow house, soil tablets and even plant tags. The plastic tray grow house is no heated propagator, of course, but it’s a brilliant starting point for the seeds inside the calendar.

The 2026 Verve Seed Advent Calendar is even prettier than the 2025 version, featuring Father Christmas himself inside a greenhouse filled with seedlings, poinsettias and Christmas trees. There’s also a very sweet dog on this year’s calendar, replacing last year’s robin.

The Verve Shelter Seed Advent Calendar is currently only available to click and collect, and there’s limited stock - B&Q says ‘when it’s gone, it’s gone’ – so it’s worth grabbing one before it sells out like it did last year!

More gardening advent calendars

For just £15, B&Q’s Verve Shelter Seed Advent Calendar is the perfect treat for young, beginner and seasoned gardeners alike. It’s a great way to try growing lots of different vegetables, herbs and flowers at once!

Depending on your garden layout, privacy can be of the utmost importance, especially if you are overlooked. And if you've recently moved, speedy-growing shrubs are what you're looking for most of all.

Autumn is the best time to invest in these shrubs and get them in the ground. Lance Russell, horticultural expert at Thompson & Morgan, explains why: 'The soil is still holding warmth from summer, while cooler temperatures and autumn rainfall help newly planted shrubs establish without the stress of summer heat.'

So which are the best varieties to choose from? We ask our gardening experts which fast-growing privacy shrubs they recommend.

1. Cherry laurel

Cherry laurel is a dense, evergreen woody shrub that can grow from 13-26 feet tall rather quickly, so it can work as a great screening idea! It has glossy, dark green leaves, and in the spring you'll see spikes of small white flowers, and in winter dark red cherry-like berries.

'This fast-growing shrub can tolerate most conditions,' says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director at LBS Horticulture. 'However, due to its potentially invasive nature, it should not be planted close to woodland or other natural areas where it could spread.'

Richard advises digging a hole that is slightly larger than the rootball of the plant and then placing it in the hole so that the rootball is level with the surrounding soil. 'Once the plant has established, it should be relatively low maintenance,' he adds 'When it is establishing, it should be watered regularly during dry spells, especially during summer. The plant should be mulched annually with an organic mulch to help it retain moisture, suppress weeds and provide nutrients.'

You can buy your cherry laurel from GardeningExpress for £89.99 for a 15-litre container, standing at around 7-8 feet high.

2. Privet

'Privet is another reliable option if you’re happy to keep your hedge clipped,' suggests Lance.

Its dense green leaves make it ideal as a privacy hedge and for property borders. 'Privet will grow almost anywhere, and can cope in a variety of conditions,' says Richard. 'For the best results, grow privet in moist, well-draining soil and keep plants well watered for the first two years. Plants should be placed in the soil at the same depth that they were in their pots, or match the soil mark on bare-rooted plants.

Privet does need maintenance at least two or three times a year, or it starts to look straggly.

Amazon are selling 25 green privet hedging evergreen plants for £64.95; they come between 25 - 40cm in height.

3. Viburnum tinus

Viburnum tinus is an evergreen shrub with dark, glossy leaves. What's nice about this variety is that it produces clusters of small, creamy white fragrant flowers that are pink when in bud.

'It grows quickly, stays evergreen, and the flowering from late autumn into spring in mild winters gives privacy and seasonal interest,' says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

You can buy your viburnum tinus from Thompson & Morgan; two 9cm potted plants will currently cost £7.98.

4. Photinia or Red Robin

'Photinia × fraseri ‘Red Robin’ is another fast choice, offering year‑round foliage plus bright red new growth in spring, and it clips well into a neat hedge,' suggests Julian.

Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Harvst Automatic Watering, agrees, 'This variety should increase in height and spread by around 45cm every year and, if left unpruned, can reach between four metres in height and width. However, if you want to use photinia for hedging, ideally you would plant it between 30 to 60cm apart; the closer planted the more dense the hedge will form.

Pruning is key two to three times a year, according to Lucie: 'It will encourage more side branches and lower thickness; reduce this to trimming once or twice a year once it reaches its full height.'

If you're wanting to start a hedge, then YouGarden are selling 24 x 8cm pots for £59.76 presently. Its vigorous growth will give you privacy and year-round colour.

5. Escallonia

Also called Red Escallonia and Red Claws, the most popular variety is Escallonia rubra 'Macrantha', (pick the Macrantha variety from Dobies, from £12.99 for a 9cm potted plant), which produces deep pink flowers that pollinators love from June to October.

This is an evergreen shrub that has thick foliage consisting of glossy, dark green leaves. 'Best suited to southern areas of the UK where weather is milder, you can plant Escallonia rubra in early autumn so that its roots quickly establish in the soil which is still warm from the summer months,' advises Lucie.

Once it's established, it should only need a trim after its flowered, Lucie says, 'Trim so it is narrower at the top than bottom to help light reach the base so it remains healthy and green. Pruning at this time allows new flower buds to form, which will become the next year's blooms.'

Essential buys for planting your shrubs

These varieties will help transform an overlooked garden into a private retreat so you can enjoy your outdoor space without feeling like the neighbours are watching.

Mycorrhizal fungi are one of those gardening terms that get a lot of hype, but they're still a bit of an enigma to many gardeners. What actually are mycorrhizal fungi? And what do they do?

Well, I’ve spoken about the benefits of mycorrhizal fungi when planting roses before, but the majority of plants on our planet benefit from them, too. They're crucial to a healthy garden – and according to experts, they can more or less double a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi exist naturally in the earth’s soil, but there are ways to incorporate them into the ground before planting to give new plants a boost and help them settle into your garden.

But first: what are mycorrhizal fungi? I’ve broken them down with the experts and explored the key benefits for plants, shrubs and trees.

What is mycorrhizal fungi?

In a nutshell, mycorrhizal fungi are, well, a type of fungus, and they're a really important companion to plants. They're normally used when you’re planting a new shrub or tree to aid establishment – Empathy Rootgrow Mycorrhizal Fungi (available at Amazon), for example, is sprinkled into the planting hole before your plant enters the ground.

‘Mycorrhizal fungi live in a symbiotic relationship with plants, providing them with essential nutrients and aiding in their growth,’ says Envii. ‘In fact, 90% of all plant life depends on mycorrhizal fungi!

‘Mycorrhizal is the adjective used to describe the network of fungal filaments that mycorrhiza create with the soil. These microscopic threads net together to form a web called mycelium.’

Apparently, those nets can stretch for hundreds and hundreds of feet, reaching far and wide for water and nutrients. Envii also told me that the nets can connect with other plants to share nutrients (very sweet!).

‘Mycorrhizal fungi work with the plant roots to almost double the root system of the plant,’ adds Dave The Plantman in conjunction with Mims Pottery.

So, why should you use mycorrhizal in the garden?

Where to buy mycorrhizal fungi

What are the benefits of mycorrhizal fungi?

We’ve already mentioned that mycorrhizal fungi aid plant growth and establishment, but how exactly does that work?

‘Mycorrhizal fungi increase nutrient intake,’ adds Envii. ‘Using a vast network of tiny thread-like structures that can extend further into the soil than a plant’s roots, the fungi increase the absorption of nutrients such as phosphorus and nitrogen. By providing the plants with these essential nutrients, they can grow bigger and stronger.’

So, as well as keeping your plants hydrated, mycorrhizal fungi will give your plants all the goodness they need to thrive.

‘They also create some resilience in the plants against diseases and toxins,’ Envii adds.

As I mentioned before, gardeners often use mycorrhizal fungi when they’re planting roses and other shrubs.

‘Mycorrhizal fungi can support root development and improve plants’ access to water and nutrients, helping them establish more successfully,’ explains Andrew Jackson, founder of New Build Manifesto.

Envii mentioned that mycorrhizal fungi exist naturally in the soil, but over time, chemicals and fertilisers can damage those systems. It's wise to use an organic mycorrhizal fungi like Envii Root Well, which is enriched with beneficial bacteria. It can be added to plants that are already in your garden, too, to improve their root system.

If you want bigger, stronger plants, don't skip mycorrhizal fungi – especially if you're adding a new shrub or tree to your garden.

Supermodel Jerry Hall’s rose garden is one of the best we’ve seen over at Ideal Home. And particularly impressive are her huge archways of climbing roses - and if you want a similar look, October is the perfect time to start training your climbing roses.

If you’ve been wondering what to do with roses in October, one of the jobs you should be doing is training climbers and ramblers. While this provides extra support, aids growth, and produces more blooms, Gerry’s example shows you can also train your roses to create a striking, structural display in your garden.

Jerry’s beautiful display appeared on her Instagram back in 2020 and is still a brilliant example today. While it may look aspirational, garden experts have spilt the beans on how we can do it too. This is what they said.

Most gardeners will have planted roses or planted climbing roses. Their fragrant blooms, which come in an array of pretty colourways, make them a striking and often romantic choice for any garden. From Jerry’s Instagram, you can see she loves a pastel pink rose, be that in her beds or in a romantic archway. And given the abundance of her flower garden, experts agree she is a good example to follow.

‘Jerry Hall’s rose archway is a beautiful example of how climbing roses can transform a garden. What makes it particularly impressive is the abundance of flowers and the way the roses have been trained to create a wonderfully romantic, almost tunnel-like effect. It feels established and natural, rather than overly manicured, which is part of its charm,’ says Francesca McEvoy, design expert at Crane Garden Buildings.

‘October is a wonderful time to start planning a rose archway like Jerry's. With growth beginning to slow, it's a good opportunity to assess established plants, secure any long, flexible stems against autumn winds and prepare the structure for new roses.

‘It's also the perfect time to choose your varieties and prepare the soil ahead of the bare-root planting season, which generally runs from November to March. For established climbing roses, I'd recommend leaving the main pruning until winter, while rambling roses are usually best pruned after flowering in late summer.’

How to get the look

‘For anyone hoping to recreate Jerry's look, I'd recommend choosing a strong, sturdy arch and selecting a vigorous climbing rose suited to the space. Varieties such as 'New Dawn', with its soft pink flowers, or 'The Generous Gardener', with its beautifully scented, pale pink blooms, are lovely choices for a romantic garden,’ recommends Francesca.

‘One of the most important tricks is to train the stems diagonally or as horizontally as possible around the structure, rather than allowing them to grow straight upwards. This encourages flowering shoots along the length of the stems, helping to create that lovely, full effect rather than a few flowers at the very top.’

Bear in mind that to achieve a display such as Jerry’s requires an abundance of patience and will. Of course, you also need the right tools and techniques, but don’t expect results overnight.

‘Having several rose arches like this is impressive, as each takes several years to mature and fully cover an arch. They act as a visual focal point in the garden and fill the surrounding area with a strong scent. Even though roses are not evergreen, the visible frame left behind in the colder months is just as striking,’ comments Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture.

‘October is a good time to install the frame and plant the roses needed to make a rose archway. Ensure that the rose arch support is firmly in place first, and anchor it deeply into the ground so that it can handle the weight of mature plants and winds.

‘As the soil is still warm and retaining autumn moisture, plant the container-grown roses that will eventually form the arch now, as their roots will have time to settle before winter. The rose should be slightly positioned away from the arch, and the main stems should be angled towards the support structure. Tie any flexible shoots loosely to the arch frame after planting.’

What you need

Jerry's garden is so beautiful, and while a rose garden like this requires time and effort, it is not impossible. Would you be willing to give it a try?

Looking for evergreen shrubs to plant in October? There's a surprisingly long list to choose from – so I've rounded up a few expert-approved picks.

Autumn is the perfect time to learn how to plant shrubs, and if you choose varieties that keep their foliage all winter (and, sometimes, produce fruits and flowers while they're at it), you'll keep your garden looking sprightly while everything else is asleep.

What you'll need

1. Skimmia

As far as evergreen shrubs go, Skimmia really does have it all: year-round glossy foliage, berries for the birds, and beautiful spring flowers.

‘Skimmia ‘Rubella’ has beautiful evergreen foliage and bright red buds,’ says Dave The Plantman in conjunction with Mims Pottery.

What’s interesting, though, is that there are male and female varieties - and if you want your shrub to produce berries, you’ll need to plant both.

‘Only female varieties have berries,’ explains Dave. ‘Female varieties have amazing foliage and bright red berries.’

Skimmia japonica 'Obsession', which you can order from Gardening Express, will produce berries if a male plant like Skimmia japonica 'Rubella' (available at Crocus) is nearby.

2. Holly

Holly is another cold-weather classic, and it’s one of the best evergreen shrubs you can plant in October for wildlife and your garden's winter aesthetic.

‘Holly is a valuable evergreen, providing year-round shelter for wildlife as well as berries for birds,’ says Morris Hankinson, managing director of Hopes Grove Nurseries. ‘The prickly leaves help with security and privacy, plus a few stems during the autumn and winter can decorate a home.’

You can order common holly in a two-litre container from Gardening Express.

3. Lemon cypress

Though lemon cypress is technically a tree, many gardeners grow it as a compact shrub – and if you’re looking for fragrant shrubs to plant in October, it’s a real winner.

‘Cupressus 'Goldcrest' has bright golden foliage and a lovely lemon scent,’ says Dave The Plantman. ‘Its conical shape makes a perfect centrepiece.’

You can either plant lemon cypress in pots or in the garden border, ideally in a spot that receives full sun. YouGarden sells small Cupressus 'Goldcrest' plants from just £6.99.

4. Checkerberry

Ever heard of the checkerberry? Its compact size makes it the perfect border plant, and it'll provide year-round greenery and structure. According to Dave, it's another shining example of evergreen shrubs to plant this October.

‘Gaultheria procumbens has lovely evergreen foliage and bright red berries,’ says Dave The Plantman.

Small checkerberry plants are available to order from Dobies for October planting.

5. Viburnum

Viburnum tinus has a firm place on our list of low-maintenance evergreen shrubs for privacy, but it's a brilliant winter plant, too. The evergreen foliage varies by variety, and there are a few architectural types that pack a real punch all year round.

'Viburnum rhytidophyllum has dramatic large leaves, with a striking rough texture, followed by creamy-white flowers in the spring,' says Topher, head gardener at Syon Park.

You can order a huge 25-litre Viburnum rhytidophyllum 'Holland' plant from Thompson & Morgan.

Which evergreen shrubs will you be planting this October?

While much of the garden is dying back and colours fading, there are still plenty of ways you can add interest outdoors this month and planting fragrant shrubs is a fabulous way to do it.

In early autumn, the soil is still warm from summer, the air temperature cooler and rainfall more plentiful, which gives roots time to establish before winter arrives. So planting fragrant shrubs in October is the ideal time, allowing plants to fully settle in and establish before bursting into growth come springtime.

‘Cool autumn evenings are made all the warmer with a burst of rich perfume, and scented shrubs planted throughout your garden or tucked near windows and doors will wrap your outdoor space in an inviting aroma you can enjoy throughout the season,’ says Shelley Davis, plant expert at Flying Flowers. ‘Beyond their seasonal fragrance, hardy plants add rich texture and vibrant year-round structure to your landscaping, ensuring your garden remains deeply inviting even as the weather cools.’

1. Daphne ‘Eternal Fragrance’

‘Living up to its name, Daphne ‘Eternal Fragrance’ is a compact, semi-evergreen hybrid which adds a long-lasting scent to any garden setting,’ says Shelley. ‘Planting now allows the white and pink blooms to settle before winter, laying the groundwork for an exceptionally long season of honey-and vanilla-scented blooms and a fragrance-filled garden.'

‘What makes this variety truly special is its rare flowering power. While most daphnes bloom only once in spring, ‘Eternal Fragrance’ produces nonstop flushes of blossoms from late spring through to autumn. Thanks to its slow, compact growth, this perennial thrives either nestled directly into garden borders or planted long-term in large containers, reliably returning with its sweet perfume year after year.’

Where to buy Daphne 'Eternal Fragrance':

• J. Parker's: Buy a pair of 15cm pot grown Daphne 'Eternal Fragrance', £39.98 to give your garden colour and fragrance.
• Crocus: This Daphne × transatlantica Eternal Fragrance comes in a range of sizes, from £27.99.

2. Elaeagnus × ebbingei

‘October is an ideal month to get shrubs established before winter, and choosing fragrant varieties means your garden can continue to offer something to enjoy long after the main summer flowering season has finished,’ says Charlotte McGrattan, Hardy Nursery Stock Buyer at Hillier Nurseries.

‘Elaeagnus is a fantastic choice for autumn planting, combining evergreen foliage with small, creamy-white flowers that have a surprisingly strong fragrance. Its evergreen foliage also provides useful structure and interest throughout the year.’

Where to buy Elaeagnus × ebbingei:

• Dobies: Buy this quick-growing Elaeagnus ebbingei (Hedging) variety, from £32.99.
• Gardening Express: Suitable for pots or as hedging, try this Elaeagnus ebbingei compacta, from £16.95.

3. Rose 'Sweet Dream'

‘For gardeners, the key is to think beyond simply choosing a plant that smells good,’ says Pim Dickson, Senior Horticulturist at Fothergills. ‘Consider when it produces its fragrance, where you'll experience it most often and whether its eventual size suits the space.’

‘Rose 'Sweet Dream' is an excellent choice for gardeners who want fragrance but don't have the space for a traditional large shrub rose,’ says Pim. ‘Reaching only around 50cm in height and spread, it can bring scented planting into small garden borders, patios and containers. Its soft peach-pink, double blooms provide delicate fragrance, and it is also an RHS Award of Garden Merit variety, which reassures gardeners about its performance.’

‘October is a great time to get this rose established because it is supplied as a bare-root plant and can be planted between October and March. When planting, loosen the surrounding soil as this gives the new roots an easier route outwards as they establish. Position the rose in full sun or partial shade, water it thoroughly after planting and keep an eye on moisture levels during any particularly dry periods.’

‘For a patio or container-grown rose, drainage is important over winter. Make sure the container has adequate drainage holes and avoid allowing the pot to sit permanently in water. Once established, deadheading spent flowers can help keep a tidy appearance and encourage the plant to keep producing its blooms.’

Where to buy Rose 'Sweet Dream':

• Fothergills: Perfect for smaller gardens, try this Rose Sweet Dream Patio variety, from £16.95.
• Primrose: Or enjoy the peachy, fragrant blooms of this Rosa Sweet Dream, £21.59.

4. Mahonia × media ‘Charity’

‘October is a great time to think beyond summer colour and introduce winter-flowering shrubs that will bring scent and interest to the garden through the cooler months,’ says Charlotte.

‘Mahonia ‘Charity’ brings plenty of winter interest, with bold evergreen foliage and striking upright spikes of yellow flowers. The flowers are fragrant and appear from late autumn into winter, providing both scent and colour when the garden can otherwise feel rather bare. Its architectural shape also makes it a useful evergreen shrub for adding structure,’ adds Charlotte.

‘When choosing fragrant plants, consider positioning them close to paths, doorways or seating areas, where their perfume can be appreciated as you pass.'

Where to buy Mahonia × media ‘Charity’:

• Gardeners Dream: Zingy yellow blooms and highly scented, try this Mahonia 'Charity', from £9.90.
• Thompson & Morgan: Or go for this Mahonia x media 'Charity' hardy shrub, from £12.99.

5. Harlequin Glorybower

‘Planting Harlequin Glorybower in October is a brilliant choice, especially since this shrub has a hidden trick to keep its scent going into the cooler months,’ says Shelley.

‘While the sweet, jasmine-like floral fragrance fades as the final autumn blossoms fall, the plant isn’t quite finished smelling. Right up until the foliage drops for winter, simply brushing against or crushing one of its broad green leaves releases a surprisingly warm peanut butter aroma, giving you a fun, nutty scent long after the flowers are gone.’

Where to buy Harlequin Glorybower:

• Thompson & Morgan: With pink blooms against a backdrop of dark leaves, try this Clerodendrum trichotomum Harlequin Glorybower, from £29.99.
• Dobies: Or pick this Clerodendrum trichotomum Harlequin Glorybower in a variety of sizes, from £29.99.

6. Viburnum ‘Dawn’

‘Renowned for its rich, clove-like fragrance, Viburnum ‘Dawn’ produces dense clusters of sweet-spiced flowers right through the colder months, filling the crisp outdoor air with notes of honey, vanilla, and almond,’ suggests Shelley. ‘This resilient shrub actually starts its flowering in October, with long-lasting displays as its buds transition from dark pink in late autumn to delicate candy-pink by spring.’

‘And as a fun bonus, the blossoms are virtually freeze-proof, so even if a sudden frost coats the open flowers in ice, they simply thaw out and keep right on blooming as if nothing happened.’

‘For fragrance through the colder months, Viburnum × bodnantense ‘Dawn’ is a real star,’ agrees Charlotte. ‘Its clusters of delicate pink flowers can appear from autumn and continue flowering through winter, often opening on bare stems.’

Where to buy Viburnum ‘Dawn’:

• J. Parker's: Enjoy colour and fragrance combined with this Viburnum bodnantense 'Dawn' Arrowwood, from £6.99.
• Suttons: Enjoy colour-filled borders with these Viburnum x bodnantense 'Dawn' Arrowwood, from £4.

7. Common Witch Hazel

‘Planting common Witch Hazel in October is like giving your autumn garden a burst of sunshine just as everything else begins to wind down,’ says Shelley. ‘Just as its golden fall foliage drops, clusters of bright yellow, ribbon-like blossoms appear, filling the crisp autumn air with a clean, refreshing scent of sweet citrus and warm, woody spice.’

‘The frost-hardy flowers also possess built-in “weather intelligence”, meaning that on freezing autumn nights, the spider-like petals curl up tight to protect themselves from frost, expanding again to release their fragrance as the sun warms them the following day.’

Where to buy Common Witch Hazel:

• Suttons: With zingy yellow blooms, try this Hamamelis x intermedia 'Pallida'Witch Hazel, from £16.99.
• Crocus: Or go for this bold orange-toned variety, Hamamelis × intermedia 'Jelena' witch hazel, from £59.99.

8. Lonicera fragrantissima (winter flowering honeysuckle)

‘As its name suggests, Lonicera fragrantissima (or winter-flowering honeysuckle) is prized for its fragrance,’ says Charlotte. ‘Its small, creamy-white flowers appear during the colder months and can fill the surrounding air with a sweet scent.’

‘Because cool autumn air doesn’t carry fragrance as far as summer heat, group your scented shrubs together in sheltered, sunny spots that protect the delicate blooms from harsh winds,’ advises Shelley. ‘And get the most from fragrant plants by placing them strategically near garden pathways, entryways, or patio seating areas where you’ll naturally catch their scent on crisp autumn walks.’

‘Finally, give them a generous soaking right after planting and add a thick layer of mulch. This retains essential soil warmth, allowing their roots to settle in happily while their perfume brightens up the cooling garden.’

Where to buy Lonicera fragrantissima:

• Thompson & Morgan: Perfect for the winter months, try this Lonicera fragrantissima Winter Honeysuckle hardy shrub, from £10.99.
• Amazon: Or enjoy the creamy blooms and intense fragrance of this Lonicera fragrantissima, Winter Honeysuckle, £34.99.

So if you want to help your fragrant shrubs get established before the winter hits, then now is the perfect time to get planting.

Wondering how to plant shrubs the correct way? It isn’t as simple as digging a makeshift hole and popping it into your garden – but if you make a few tweaks to that technique, it’s pretty straightforward.

October is the ideal time to prune certain shrubs, but it’s also the perfect opportunity to plant new ones. The soil is still warm enough from the summer, it’s moister, and the roots have plenty of time to establish before spring.

I’ve thrown together a guide on planting new shrubs, with expert tips, to help you give your plant the best possible start this autumn.

What you'll need

1. Soak the roots first

There’s a lot of debate around whether or not you should soak spring bulbs before planting, and shrubs hold a huge question mark, too. According to experts, though, it’s wise to soak the shrub’s roots before you plant it in the garden.

‘Douse the shrub roots in water until completely soaked,’ advises Paul Parker from J. Parker’s. ‘This helps to minimise the stress on the plant.'

You’ll just need a big bucket, like this 26L Whitefurze Flexible Tub from Argos.

2. Prepare the soil

While the roots are soaking, you can start preparing the ground for your new shrub. This step comes just before you dig the planting hole – and it’s worth learning a few quick ways to remove weeds beforehand.

‘Prepare the ground thoroughly, removing perennial weeds and breaking up compacted soil,’ says Annelise Brilli, Thompson & Morgan’s horticultural expert. It's worth investing in a sturdy garden fork like the Spear & Jackson Traditional Stainless Steel Border Fork from Amazon to tackle larger clumps of soil.

When it comes to planting roses and other specific shrubs, experts often suggest enriching the planting hole (once you’ve dug it) with organic matter. According to Annelise, though, it could do a newly planted shrub more harm than good.

‘Avoid the traditional advice to add organic matter to the planting hole,’ she warns. ‘In heavy or poorly drained soil, it can create a sump that holds excess moisture around the roots. As the organic matter breaks down, the soil can also settle, causing the shrub to sink too deeply.’

3. Dig a hole

Once you’ve prepared the soil, you can start digging a hole for your shrub. Annelise told me that planting depth is key to a shrub’s long-term health and performance – too deep, and you’ll deprive the roots of oxygen, but too shallow, and the root ball is at greater risk of exposure and drying out.

‘This hole should be a bit deeper than the pot that the shrub comes in, and three times as wide,’ advises Paul. ‘Make sure you loosen the soil below and surrounding the hole so that the roots can fully establish themselves.’

A sturdy spade is a must for planting a new shrub. I rate Kent & Stowe’s garden tools, and I’ve got my eye on this top-rated Kent & Stowe Garden Life Stainless Digging Spade from B&Q.

4. Position the shrub

With the soil prepared and hole dug, you can carefully tip the plant from the pot it arrived in. Preserving the roots is key here – you’ll want to avoid disturbing or damaging them.

Once you’ve lowered your shrub into the hole, you’ll need to make sure it’s positioned properly.

‘The top of the root ball should sit level with the surrounding soil,’ says Annelise. ‘Place a cane across the hole to help you judge the depth.’

Once it’s in place, you can start to backfill the hole with soil.

‘Pat down until firm, but don’t damage the roots below,’ advises Paul. ‘Try to wedge the plant in by adding soil to fill any gaps – this will help to keep the plant steady as the roots establish.’

5. Water and mulch

Learning how to plant a shrub really is as simple as that, but you’ll need to follow it up with a couple of crucial steps to help it settle into your garden. First, you’ll need to give it plenty of water.

‘Give the shrub a thorough soaking to settle the soil around the roots, even if the ground is already damp,’ says Annelise.’

It’s also worth mulching around the shrub, using something like Strulch, which you can order from Amazon in a bundle – but don’t get too close to the shrub itself.

‘Apply mulch in a wide circle around the shrub to help conserve moisture and suppress weeds, but avoid ‘volcano mulching’,’ advises Annelise. ‘Piling mulch against the stems can trap moisture and encourage stem rot, so leave a clear gap of 10cm around the base of the shrub.’

From there, Annelise recommends watering deeply when the shrub needs it, rather than little and often, and keeping a closer eye on your shrub during dry spells (although as we’re heading towards winter, those are less likely to be a problem for the rest of the year).

‘Hot, dry springs can be particularly challenging, as shrubs put on fresh leaf growth that requires a steady supply of moisture before their root systems have had enough time to develop and support it,’ Annelise adds.

Knowing how to plant shrubs properly will make a world of difference to your plant's long-term health.

There are plenty of plants that benefit from pruning in October, but what can you do with the clippings?

After you’ve decided what to prune in October, it’s easy to assume that the leftover clippings are simply garden waste. But just like there are ways to reuse fallen leaves and reuse conkers in a garden during the autumn months, your clippings are no exception.

If you want a thriving, healthy garden for 2027, garden experts have revealed five uses for old clippings that will help your garden ideas flourish now and in the future.

1. Make leaf mould

When pruning shrubs in October, you’ll probably have a load of leaves within your clippings. The same can be said for pruning trees and hedges this month. So, instead of discarding your leaves, turn them into leaf mould for next year. Leaf mould, AKA gardeners' gold, is a brilliant (and free) soil conditioner.

‘You can use fallen or clipped leaves in your garden to make leaf mould,’ says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture.

'Gather the leaves from deciduous plants and stuff them into a black bin bag. Punch air and drainage holes in the bag, loosely tie the top and then leave the contents to rot for a year in a hidden area of your garden. Finished leaf mould should be dark, soft and crumbly, and can be used as garden mulch or mixed with compost when planting.'

2. Chop and drop onto your borders

If you want to feed your borders and beds over winter, the answer is literally between your pruning shears. Your clippings can help improve your soil’s structure in time for spring next year.

‘The ‘chop and drop’ method is a favourite of mine for herbaceous borders. Instead of carting away spent stems and foliage after cutting back perennials, simply chop them into smaller pieces with shears and drop them onto the soil surface,’ says Melissa Quinney, gardening expert at Cabin Master.

‘They'll break down naturally over winter, feeding the soil and providing a habitat for beneficial insects. It's the ultimate low-effort, no-waste approach, and it saves you a trip to the compost heap.’

3. Help wildlife

We’re huge advocates for wildlife gardens here at Ideal Home, and if you’re stuck for ideas on how to use your old clippings, they can have a few beneficial uses for garden wildlife.

‘Wildlife in your garden can use clippings for several things,’ begins Richard. ‘Insects can overwinter in grass piles or the hollow stems of trimmed branches. As the clippings break down, they attract decomposers like fungi and earthworms. These will, in turn, act as a food source for other animals.’

4. Add to your compost heap

If you’re not already making compost in your garden, take this as your sign to do so, as it is a perfect location to dispose of clippings, whilst benefiting your garden at the same time.

‘Most garden clippings (soft stems, spent flowers, vegetable peelings, and grass cuttings) can go straight into the compost bin, where they'll break down into a rich, dark compost that feeds your garden for free,’ says Melissa.

‘Just avoid adding perennial weeds, diseased material, or anything that's gone to seed, as these can cause problems later. Turning the heap occasionally and keeping it moist will speed up the process, and you'll have a steady supply of homemade compost ready to use next spring.’

5. Use for mulching

Last, but certainly not least, your garden clippings can be used to make mulch. The term mulching refers to the practice of laying organic matter around your plants. This can help regulate their temperature (especially helpful in winter), suppress weeds and improve the quality of your soil.

'Garden clippings can be used as a thin layer of mulch around the base of plants. Fresh, wet grass clippings should not be packed thickly over the crowns of plants, as the wet layer of grass can turn slimy, block air and cause plant stems to rot,’ says Richard.

What you need

While clippings may seem like waste, they're actually gold for your garden. And these five ways to reuse clippings in your garden will all help contribute to a healthier ecosystem.

I’m all about pretty trees, so this season, I thought I’d track down the best autumn-flowering trees you can plant in October.

Just like autumn-flowering shrubs, trees that produce blooms during the autumn ways can add much-needed colour and beauty to the garden. Some autumn-flowering trees are available to buy fully-grown, which means they’ll burst into bloom this autumn, while others can be planted in their bare-root form now for flowers over the coming years.

I asked the experts to share their favourite autumn-flowering trees to plant in October for beautiful cool-weather blooms.

What you'll need

1. Winter-flowering cherry

Cherry blossoms are up there with my all-time favourite trees, but not every variety flowers in spring. Winter-flowering cherries happen to be among the best autumn-flowering trees, too, and when I spoke to Annelise Brilli, Thompson & Morgan’s horticultural expert, she recommended Prunus x subhirtella 'Autumnalis Rosea'.

‘This elegant, spreading cherry brings welcome colour to the garden when other trees have finished flowering,’ Annelise says. ‘Semi-double, rosy-pink flowers emerge from dark pink buds during mild spells from late October through to March. The blooms open intermittently, creating an extended display that can brighten even the coldest months.’

You can buy a fully-grown (200-210cm) Prunus subhirtella ‘Autumnalis Rosea’ from Gardening Express, or start with a bare-root Prunus x subhirtella 'Autumnalis Rosea' tree from Thompson & Morgan (you’ll just need to wait a little longer for the first flowers to appear next year).

‘In autumn, the foliage adds another splash of colour as the leaves turn a warm, buttery yellow before falling,’ Annelise adds.

2. Strawberry tree

Ever heard of the strawberry tree? Known botanically as Arbutus unedo, It produces fruits that look just like the popular berries (but don’t taste like them!).

Before that, though, it produces beautiful white blooms. It’s another recommendation of Annelise’s for autumn-flowering trees.

‘Dainty, urn-shaped white flowers dangle alongside red strawberry-like fruits, offering a rich autumnal display,’ says Annelise. ‘Its glossy evergreen foliage and peeling red-brown bark adds further interest, while its spreading, shrubby habit gives it an elegant, natural shape.’

Annelise advises a sunny, sheltered position for the strawberry tree, and says it’s particularly well suited to coastal gardens, too. You can order an established strawberry tree from B&Q.

3. Witch hazel

Witch hazel generally flowers from December to March, but if you’re lucky, it’ll open its blooms as early as October – so it’s among the best autumn-flowering trees you can plant now as well as a brilliant winter-flowering shrub.

‘Witch hazel (Hamamelis) is a small, slow-growing tree or large shrub with fragrant, spidery flowers in late autumn through winter, depending on the variety,’ says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. ‘It’s ideal for a sheltered spot in partial shade and adds scent when little else is flowering.’

American witch hazel is generally the most reliable for autumn flowering, while varieties like witch hazel ‘Jelena’ from Crocus burst into bloom from early winter.

Plant these autumn-flowering trees now for beautiful displays every year.

You don't need acres of space to enjoy the pleasure of picking fresh fruit straight from your own garden.

The great news is that you can plant fruit trees in a small garden – and the best news is that now is the time to plant them. Autumn in all its golden glory is ideal because the soil is still warm from the summer.

'Rainfall at this time of year provides more natural moisture, and this allows plants to concentrate on establishing their roots before the demands of spring and summer growth begin,' explains Pim Dickson, senior horticulturist at Fothergill's.

With the help of gardening experts, we list below the top seven easiest fruit trees that are ideal for a small garden.

1. Pear

It's a bit of a myth that you need a large garden or an orchard to grow fruit.

'The trick is to choose trees bred to stay small (often called “dwarfing” rootstocks) and, where possible, self‑fertile varieties so you don’t need a second tree to pollinate them,' advises Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

So which are the best pear tree varieties to pick?

Julian suggests ‘Concorde’ as a reliable, self‑fertile choice; ''Doyenné du Comice’ is excellent if you have room and a pollinator.'

Look after your harvest – pruning pear trees is an essential practice for keeping them in great shape and providing you with plenty of fruit.

2. Plum

There's nothing quite like biting into a juicy plum, especially when it's baked into a delectable crumble on a cosy autumnal day. You can grow your own by planting a plum tree in your small garden this month, and within a few years you'll have plenty of crops. And not forgetting the gorgeous blossom that comes with a plum tree every spring...

'If you are looking for a compact fruit tree which will provide excellent seasonal interest for small spaces, then I’d always recommend introducing a compact variety,' says Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert from Harvst Automatic Watering.

Lucie recommends Opal and Victoria; both are self-fertile varieties. You can buy Opal from £29.99 for a five-litre pot from Thompson & Morgan; it is a heavy-cropping variety with red-flushed, yellow-skinned fruit. Victoria is perhaps the most popular variety in this country, known for its juicy plums. You can buy one bare root for £19.99 from YouGarden.

3. Fig

Fig is perhaps a fruit tree you might not have considered. It's low maintenance, and most common ones don't need a pollinator partner.

'Fig trees produce the best crop when their roots are restricted, so they respond well to being grown in pots,' advises Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture. 'Figs can also be fan trained so that the branches grow flat against a wall, and this can maximise the amount of sunlight that the plant receives.'

The two varieties Richard recommends are Brunswick; you can buy this from Roots, for £20. Brown Turkey is available for £14.99, B&Q. Both are compact and of the self-fertile variety.'

4. Apple

'There are many varieties of apple tree available that are well suited to growing in smaller gardens,' suggests Richard. 'Most varieties will need more than one tree for pollination, but if you only have the room for a single tree, it is best to choose a self-fertile variety like 'Braeburn' or 'Red Falstaff'.

One of the easiest fruit trees to grow, apple trees tolerate a wider range of soil types and climates, thrive in large pots and are low maintenance once established – they do need pruning in late winter though.

'You can also save space with apple trees by training them against the wall as a cordon or espalier,' Richard adds.

If you love cooking with apples, then you can't beat the King of Cooking Apples: the Bramley. Buy from YouGarden for £24.99 for a five-litre pot.

5. Mulberry

Mulberries are easy to grow, and the fruit is sweet, juicy and tangy, rather like a blackberry, so if you fancy something a bit different, then give them a try. Pollinators love a mulberry tree, and if your garden is small, then look for dwarf or patio types.

'Easy to care for, if you introduce a potted dwarf mulberry tree into your garden in early to mid autumn it will take advantage of the heat left in the soil so that roots can start growing and it becomes established well before winter weather arrives,' suggests Lucie. 'However, if you want to take advantage of the lower costs of buying a bare root tree, then wait until late autumn, once it has entered dormancy, to add it to your garden.'

Lucie recommends a dwarf variety called Mojo Berry as it has been developed to grow up to two metres in height. You can buy it in a three-litre pot for £27.99 from Crocus; this variety is great for patios.

Pim loves this variety too: 'It is slow-growing and can reach around 1.5m when grown in a container, while still producing fruit. It is interesting for gardeners who want something a little different from the usual apple or pear, and its ability to fruit on both old and new wood can provide a long harvesting period.'

6. Cherry

Are cherry trees worth it for the frothy blossom alone, right?

'They will produce blossom in spring and attractive foliage in autumn,' says Richard. 'A variety like 'Stella' is best for a smaller garden, as it is self-fertile, so you will only need a single tree.'

Julian agrees, 'Cherries on dwarfing rootstock are well suited to small gardens; other self‑fertile options are ‘Lapins’ or ‘Sunburst ’, avoiding the need for another tree.'

You can buy Stella as a maiden tree colt rootstock for £26.99 from Dobies. Lapins has a darker red berry and is available from Crocus for £34.99 for one bare-root colt rootstock. The Sunburst variety is an early-cropping type and is perfect for containers, from £29.99 from Thompson & Morgan.

7. Peach

Peach is a lovely fruit to grow, but you do need to get a few basics right.

'Peaches and nectarines on dwarfing types work well in small gardens, especially trained against a warm, sunny wall, though you’ll need to protect the blossom from late frosts,' advises Julian.

The blossom is fragrant, with pink flowers in spring, and peach trees can grow in containers if your garden is super tight on space. They are prone to leaf curl disease, though the Avalon Pride variety is highly resistant, from £44.99, Dobies.

A great option for small gardens is the peach (Prunus persica); it loves containers and can be bought for £39.99 from Thompson & Morgan.

Fruit tree planting essentials

There are some lovely fruit tree varieties to choose from that are ideal for planting in a small garden this autumn. Which will you pick?

Autumn signals the beginning of the end of the growing season for many plants, but if you know what to do with a vegetable patch in October, you could squeeze more out of your garden than you’d think.

There are so many jobs to do in a garden in October, and the same applies to a vegetable bed – now is the time to tidy things up, prepare the soil for next year, and even sow a few hardy crops for winter harvests.

I’ve rounded up a few October vegetable patch jobs to pencil in now for a productive autumn garden.

What you'll need

1. Clear spent crops

If your vegetable patch is looking a little sad right now, it’s probably in need of a good tidy-up – and by October, spent crops will need to be removed.

‘Remove crops that have finished producing or are badly diseased,’ says best-selling author and grow-your-own expert Huw Richards, who has partnered with watering and hand tools brand GARDENA. ‘Healthy plants can often be cut back and added to the compost heap.’

Huw recommends a good pair of secateurs to make light work of cutting back spent stems, like the GARDENA PremiumCut Flex Secateurs (available at Amazon). You don’t have to remove the entire plant, though; sometimes, the roots can act a bit like a green manure.

‘You can leave healthy roots in the soil to break down naturally, feeding soil life and adding organic matter,’ adds Huw. ‘There’s no need to leave every bed completely bare.’

Speaking of organic matter…

2. Prepare beds

October also gives us the green light to begin preparing our soil for winter. Nutrients are especially important in vegetable beds (if you want to grow tasty harvests, anyway), and the work you put in now will pay dividends next spring.

‘Cover empty beds with a layer of well-rotted compost or homemade compost,’ advises Huw. ‘I prefer spreading it over the surface rather than digging it in, allowing worms and soil organisms to incorporate it naturally. A mulch also protects the soil from winter weather and helps retain moisture.’

RocketGro Organic Magic Mulch, which you can order from Amazon, is a bestselling peat-free mulch. It enriches the soil with nutrients, suppresses weeds and protects plants in cold weather.

3. Plant new crops

There are a surprising number of things you can plant in October, and vegetables rank high on the list. Huw says hardy crops like broad beans, winter salads, spinach and spring onions can all be sown now, depending on your climate. You’ll just need to select the right varieties.

‘Choose varieties suited to autumn and winter growing for the best results,’ advises Huw. ‘October is an excellent month for planting garlic – why not also try elephant garlic, known for its colossal bulbs!’

If you’ve got room in your vegetable garden, you could even plant soft fruit bushes.

‘It’s a good time to plant soft fruit such as raspberries, gooseberries and currants, and apple, pear and other fruit trees,’ says Claire Bishop, Senior Plant Buyer at Dobbies Garden Centres. ‘Planting while the soil is still relatively warm gives roots time to establish before winter.’

Gooseberry 'Hinnonmaki Green' (you can order potted plants from Thompson & Morgan) is a popular favourite.

4. Protect tender crops

If you want to get the most out of this growing season, you can – and you don’t have to say goodbye to tender crops just yet. You’ll just need to know how to protect plants from frost and stock up on a few cloches, like this Garden Gear Bell Cloche from Thompson & Morgan.

‘Use fleece, cloches, cold frames or an unheated greenhouse to protect less-hardy crops from frost and extend the growing season,’ says Huw. ‘Remember to ventilate covered crops on mild days to prevent excessive humidity. Consider transplanting some winter crops such as kale and chard into polytunnel beds from outside as they will be more productive over winter with the protection.’

You could even invest in a cold frame like this large wooden cold frame from Crocus.

If you're wondering what to do with a vegetable patch in October, these tasks are key to a productive garden this year and next year.

Trees make a fabulous focal point in any garden, and if you’re lucky enough to have a tree that resident birds and wildlife are attracted to, it’s lovely being able to look out and watch when they pay a visit.

But while trees are an invaluable support to wildlife, providing all-important food and shelter, if you’re considering planting a tree in your garden, then size is all-important and choosing a small tree to attract birds and wildlife is a must if garden space is limited.

‘More and more people want to see wildlife in their gardens, and it’s often simpler than they expect,’ says Chris Bonnett, founder of Gardening Express. ‘Incorporating even a small selection of native plants and trees in your garden can make a big difference. These plants already fit in with our local wildlife, so they’ll provide exactly what birds and insects need to survive and thrive.’

1. Rowan

‘When it comes to planting trees to attract birds, it’s always a great idea to plant and grow berry-bearing trees and shrubs that will support local wildlife through the colder months,’ says David Denyer, flower and garden expert at eflorist. ‘Berrying shrubs and small trees give your garden depth and interest, even when most other plants have died back.’

‘As temperatures drop and insects become scarce, berries provide a vital source of food for birds, hedgehogs, and small mammals and a few berry-laden branches can become a hub of activity for robins, blackbirds and other visiting birds that will bring life to your garden during the cold winter.’

‘My top recommendations for berry-producing trees include rowan, holly, hawthorn and crab apple. They’re all hardy, low-maintenance, and provide excellent food sources through all of the winter months.’

‘In terms of size, rowan is a compact and slender native tree that brings greenery and structure to gardens through summer,’ agrees Chris. ‘And then later in the year, it produces bright berries that are beneficial for birds.’

In terms of height, you can expect a standard rowan tree to reach around 10 - 15 m, or opt for a compact variety like this Sorbus Ulleungensis Olympic Flame rowan, £27.99, from Primrose, that should only reach around 7m.

2. Amelanchier

When it comes to compact varieties of trees for a small garden, multi-stem trees can be a good choice, creating a stunning focal point with their compact, fanned-out shape but with none of the bulk, height and spread of a larger-trunked tree.

‘Amelanchiers are a great choice for a compact garden, because they are small and require minimal pruning,’ suggests David. ‘During spring you’ll be treated to delicate white blossoms that bees and other pollinators love, then summer brings green foliage, while autumn offers vibrant orange and then red leaves, together with small, dark berries that ripen and are eagerly consumed by birds.’

A standard amelanchier tree will reach around 4 - 8 m in height. Try a variety like this Amelanchier X Grand Robin Hill, £129.99 from B&Q, that can be grown in the ground or in a large container.

Shop these tree planting essentials

3. Crab apple

One of the most popular small garden trees, crab apples are also loved by wildlife, providing masses of spring blossoms and nectar for bees and pollinators, tasty leaves for caterpillars and then a feast of juicy crab apples for visiting birds that ripen later in the year, around autumn time. While the fruit is a little sour for our palates, rodents, squirrels and badgers will also happily eat them.

Crab apple trees are fairly easy to grow, requiring well-drained fertile soil, and while they do like the sun, crab apple trees are also happy in areas of dappled shade. Smaller dwarf varieties include this pretty crab apple, 'Tina' Malus toringo, £64.99, Thompson & Morgan, which can be expected to reach around 1.5m in height, so perfect for a smaller garden.

4. Hawthorn

‘If you’re creating a wildlife-friendly garden, it’s always worth considering adding a native hedge or small tree - and hawthorn is a great option,’ says Chris. ‘It attracts pollinators with its blossoms and provides shelter and nesting spots for birds, while also producing autumn haws (red, berry-like fruits) that provide an important food source for wildlife later in the year.’

To ensure that a hawthorn tree stays compact in a smaller garden, opt for a compact variety like this pretty Double Pink Hawthorn tree, £36 from Roots Plants, which should only reach around 4-8m. Its shape and size can also be kept neat and compact by regular light pruning. Hawthorn can also be grown as a hedge when planted close together.

5. Blackthorn

Blackthorn is another variety that birds and wildlife love. Blossoming early in the year with clouds of snow-white flowers, which are much loved by pollinators, followed by wrinkly, green leafy foliage that gets devoured by moth caterpillars. Blackthorn trees fruit around October to November, with blue-black sloe berries that birds will feast upon, while their dense, thorny thickets offer safe nesting and protection from predators.

In terms of size, hawthorn can be grown as a thorny hedge, like this Prunus spinosa blackthorn hedging (£87.98, Primrose), or, if left unclipped, will develop into a freestanding, small tree with a height of up to 6m and a spread of 4m, making blackthorn a good choice when planning a smaller garden.

6. Holly

A much-loved Christmas classic, holly is the perfect pick if you want to bring colour and wildlife to your garden over the colder winter months. With glossy evergreen spiky foliage, holly flowers between spring and early summer (depending on the variety and climate), then once pollinated, the flowers develop into its signature scarlet berries. These berries remain on the tree throughout winter, with birds often treating them as a late-winter food source when other food is gone.

Left untrimmed, a mature holly tree can reach up to 20m, but there are plenty of compact, garden-friendly varieties that are suitable for smaller spaces, like this slow-growing Ilex meservae ‘little rascal’, £28.99, OneClick Plants, which only reaches a height of around 50 - 60 cm at maturity.

Is planting a tree on your autumn 'to-do' list? Let us know your favourite variety.

October is a great time to prune some shrubs; it's the last chance to remove old and damaged growth as well as check for disease and pests.

But not all shrubs should be pruned at this time; those not included are flowering varieties like lilacs, rhododendrons and forsythia because they already have next year's buds forming.

So what do we prune? Our wonderful gardening experts have come up with five shrubs to tackle.

1. Buddleia or butterfly bush

Buddleia or butterfly bush – because butterflies adore it – is a deciduous bush that loves sunny spots with well-draining soil.

It comes in the classic dark purple, which we see more often, but also magenta, pink and white.

'Even though this should normally be cut back hard in spring, butterfly bush can be cut back by half now to stop wind from rocking the roots of the plant and making it unstable,' suggests Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director at LBS Horticulture. 'Cut back tall, whippy branches by half, but avoid cutting back the plant lower than three to four feet. Any dead, diseased or broken branches can also be cut back to healthy wood.'

If you fancy having this butterfly-loving shrub in your garden, then have a look at dark purple Black Knight, £15.95 for a 2-3litre pot from Gardening Express.

For a striking two-tone look, we love Flower Power with its pink and orange petals, £22.99 for a 2-litre pot from Dobies.

2. Lavatera

Lavatera, also known as tree mallow, is a fast-growing shrub that flowers between June and September. It has lovely delicate petalled flowers in shades of pink, lilac and white. You can also successfully use it as a cut flower in vases. They can get a bit leggy at this time of year, so do need some TLC.

Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Harvst Automatic Watering, explains, 'If you have one of the tall, fast-growing varieties of lavatera which is likely to reach two metres or more in height, such as the popular lavatera x clementii ‘Burgundy Wine’, ‘Rosea’ or ‘Barnsley’, to protect them from wind damage in late autumn and winter it’s important to spend some time pruning them in October.'

According to Lucie, in October you aim to carry out a light tidy, cutting back large shrubs by between a third and a half in height.

3. Climbing and rambling roses

We all love climbing and rambling roses, and this is the time of year when you can neaten them up a little.

'October rose pruning is about tidying up and reducing wind‑rock rather than heavy reshaping,' advises Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres. 'Climbing and rambling roses can be trimmed to keep long shoots off paths, gutters and windows, with the main pruning left for later in winter.'

'Doing this now will prevent winter winds and storms from damaging them,' says Richard. 'Remove any dead, diseased or damaged wood, then cut back this year's side shoots to a few buds from the main framework. Any new, vigorous basal shoots should be tied to the plant's support.'

Wishing you had a climbing or rambling rose? Now is a good time to start researching varieties, as bare root roses can be planted in November. We love Paul's Scarlet climbing rose with its deep red colour, £17.99 for one bare root plant, Thompson & Morgan. A good rambling variety is Open Arms, a repeat bloomer with pale pink petals and prominent golden stamens, £15.95 for a three-litre pot, Gardening Express.

4. Hydrangea

'Hydrangeas can benefit from some attention at this time of year,' Lance Russell, horticultural expert at Thompson & Morgan. 'With them in particular, it’s important to know which type you have before reaching for the secateurs. Many varieties flower on old wood, so a hard autumn prune could mean removing next year’s flower buds.'

Lance advises removing dead, damaged or diseased growth first and concentrating on improving the plant’s shape and removing anything that is crossing or rubbing.'

Hydrangea Annabelle is a really popular variety at the moment; it has large spherical white heads that are really striking. Thompson & Morgan have a 9cm pot for £12.99.

For the classical look, try the Giant Blue Mophead variety, currently £19.99 for one, GardeningExpress.

5. Lavender

'If you haven’t already dealt with your lavender, you can give it a light trim, although avoid cutting hard back into old woody growth,' says Will Williamson, Squire’s Garden Centres horticultural expert. 'At this time of year it’s much more about looking at what needs tidying in your own garden rather than pruning for the sake of it.'

Lavender is a great variety to have in your garden; it adds a heavenly scent and the bees adore it. We like the Hidcote variety, currently £5.99 for one at GardeningExpress.

Essential buys for pruning

'October is a good month for giving many shrubs a gentle tidy, but the key is to resist the temptation to cut everything back hard,' advises Lance. 'As temperatures drop, plants are preparing for winter, and some shrubs will already have next year’s flower buds developing.'

Autumn is still peak season for dahlias, with plenty of plants still in bloom – but knowing what to do with dahlias will ensure you look after them properly during and after flowering.

Whether you’re growing dahlias in pots or borders, you’ll want to make the most of the blooms this month, while the rest of the garden winds down for the year. To do that, you’ll need to stay on top of a few simple maintenance tasks – and those depend very much on which part of the month it is.

Here’s what you should be doing with your dahlias this October, before and after they finish flowering.

What you'll need

1. Deadhead spent flowers

If your dahlias are still blooming (and many are at the start of October), you’ll probably want to extend those displays for as long as you can.

Enter deadheading: the unsung hero of flowering plants. The more you remove spent flowers, the more energy your plant will have to spare for extra blooms – and that's why deadheading is such an important task for abundant dahlia displays.

'In October, I would keep an eye on the weather and let the flowers continue for as long as possible,' adds Ross Dyke, Hornby George's consultant horticulturist and host of The Plant Pod.

2. Leave the foliage alone

Even if your dahlias have finished flowering, it’s still too early to cut them back for the winter. The ideal time to cut dahlias back is actually much later on, when the weather has cooled down.

‘Leave dahlias untouched while the foliage remains healthy, cutting them back after the first frost has blackened the leaves,’ says Annelise Brilli, Thompson & Morgan's horticultural expert. ‘This allows the plant to replenish the tuber’s energy.’

3. Cut them back after the first frosts

This October's weather forecast looks very mild, but in colder regions of the UK, the end of the month might bring the first frosts – and that gives us the green light to cut the foliage back.

'Once the first proper frosts arrive and the foliage starts to turn black or die back, I'd cut the stems down and decide whether to leave the tubers in the ground or lift them for winter,' says Ross.

Use a clean, sharp pair of bypass secateurs like the Spear & Jackson Razorsharp Advantage Bypass Secateurs from Amazon. If you'll be overwintering your dahlias and lifting the tubers, make sure you store them somewhere cool and dry.

'If I'm leaving them outside, I'd give them a good layer of mulch to help protect them from cold and wet conditions,' Ross adds.

RocketGro Peat-Free Organic Magic Mulch, which you can buy from Amazon, feeds the soil and suppresses weeds, too.

These October dahlia tasks are simple but key – and they'll ensure the tubers conserve as much energy as possible for the next growing season.

Autumn signals the end of a rose’s growing season, but that doesn’t mean you should neglect your plant. In fact, knowing what to do with roses is crucial if you want to conserve their health and strength.

Roses need a number of things in autumn to help them wind down for the year. It’s the perfect time to crack down on diseases, for example, and even train climbers and ramblers. The simple tasks you complete now can determine how healthy a plant you take into 2027.

Here’s a list of things to do with roses in October to give your plant all the care it needs ahead of winter.

What you'll need

1. Target diseases

When I spoke to Harkness Roses’ founder, Philip Harkness, he told me that one of the main tasks for roses in October is tackling plant diseases. Culprits like rust and black spot are among the most common rose problems, but they won’t always spell doom for the plant - especially if you nip them in the bud.

‘It is a good time of year to collect the diseased leaves from the ground and from the plants and dispose of them,’ Philip said.

You can also buy treatments that control fungus and even aphids, like RoseClear from Amazon.

2. Give them a light trim

Hard pruning is well, a hard no for roses in October, since the ideal time to prune roses is during the colder months, but you can give some types a light tidy this month.

‘If the roses have no more flower buds coming, then give the plants a light autumn trim,’ says Philip.

Dead, damaged or diseased growth should be the targets, but you can be a little more strategic with climbing roses.

‘Avoid the main framework of stems altogether, only cutting side shoots that are crossing or sticking out to just above a bud,’ advises Paul Parker from plants and bulbs specialist J. Parker’s. ‘In the early autumn months, you should focus on only pruning the long shoots that may be susceptible to wind damage.’

Use a sharp pair of bypass secateurs like the Spear & Jackson Razorsharp Advantage Bypass Secateurs from Amazon to make clean cuts on the plant.

3. Train climbers and ramblers

Speaking of climbing roses, October is the perfect time to train any rambling or climbing varieties. Many gardeners grow climbing roses for privacy, but they’ll need a bit of guidance to create the framework you’re looking for.

‘October is a good time to train climbers and ramblers,’ says Philip Harkness. ‘Where there are new long shoots, tie them in. During October, these stems are usually still pliable, so you can bend them to the shape and position you require.’

Bendy garden twine like this Biostretch Garden Twine from Amazon can make the task easier. You can also buy a climbing plant training kit from B&Q, if you’re training your climbing rose from scratch.

4. Stop feeding them

Since growth is winding down for the winter, you’ll need to stop fertilising your roses in October.

‘If you continue to feed in October, the plant will be more likely to continue to produce young growth,’ explains Philip. ‘In October, the plant is wanting to prepare for winter, not be pushed into producing more growth and flowers. The growth will remain soft with a high moisture content and will be damaged by frost.’

5. Plant new roses

October is the perfect time to plant new roses, too. Container-grown plants like Rose 'Palace Kailani' from Gardening Express give you a little bit more of a head start in terms of growth, but bare-root roses are generally cheaper, and sometimes even more rewarding (since you’re growing them almost from scratch).

‘Planting in autumn is an excellent idea,’ says Philip. ‘October through to Christmas is the traditional time for planting roses. During autumn and winter, the newly planted rose will begin to get roots established, ready to burst into growth in the spring.’

Keep these October rose tasks at the top of your weekend to-do list!

When Monty Don bought his home in 1991, he inherited a two-acre garden filled with nettles and brambles – but he has steadily worked to transform it over the years into a truly beautiful space (the kind Instagram photos are made for).

Naturally, then, he has garnered a loyal following on Instagram, as people tune in to get a glimpse of his outdoor space. And Monty's latest photo, of a garden path leading from the timber-framed doorway of his doghouse, has certainly created something of a buzz.

Now, one of the simplest ways to soften paving is to introduce potted plants around its edges, allowing foliage and flowers to spill into the path and blur the boundary between the hard landscaping and the planting beyond. And Monty Don's given us an excellent lesson in how to do it properly...

How to soften a garden path the Monty Don way

Yes, the Instagram shot of Monty Don's garden path reveals that the celebrated gardener has softened it with an informal collection of terracotta pots, rather than treating it as a rigid route through the garden.

There is zero sense of everything being perfectly matched or symmetrically positioned; instead, plants gather around the edges, while the greenery beyond seems to flow almost uninterrupted into the paving.

Check it out:

According to Christopher O'Donoghue, director of Gardens Revived, pots are particularly useful for breaking up the straight lines of paving – especially on a narrow path or around expanses of brick or concrete.

'Using potted plants is an excellent way to blur the harsh, straight lines of paving,' he says. 'In the UK, pots also give you complete control over soil drainage, which is a lifesaver during wet winters.'

So, how to go about softening a path the Monty Don way? Follow these tips...

1. Don't arrange pots too neatly

The key, he says, is to avoid arranging them too neatly. 'Don't line up identical pots perfectly opposite each other,' says Christopher. 'Instead, stagger them. Place a cluster of three pots on one side, and a single larger pot further down on the opposite side.'

It's this asymmetry, he says, that helps make a path feel like part of the garden rather than a corridor through it. And remember, too, that the container itself isn't the whole point; for the softest effect, in fact, it's the plant that should eventually become difficult to distinguish from the path.

'Monty Don's secret to softening a path is letting the foliage spill over the rim of the pot and physically touch the paving,' says Christopher. 'This blurs the line where the path ends, and the garden begins.'

2. Use a mish-mash of pots

Varying the height of the containers can make the arrangement feel even more natural. 'A tall pot draws the eye up, while a low, squat bowl next to it grounds the arrangement and spreads foliage onto the path,' Christopher explains.

This is particularly effective when pots are grouped rather than treated as individual specimens; think of them as little pockets of planting: a tall architectural plant, something spilling over the edge and perhaps a lower plant filling the gaps.

Shop Monty Don-inspired pots and containers:

3. Think in layers

When softening a garden path with pots, the overall effect doesn't have to be expensive or complicated; just start with ordinary pots and let plants establish themselves there.

'When they have enough bulk to make a convincing display, move the stars into your handsome terracotta containers and position them alongside the path,' says Christopher.

'Then add smaller pots around them, vary the heights and allow some foliage to tumble onto the paving.' The result, he insists, is less about decorating a path with pots and more about making the path disappear into the planting – which is exactly what makes Monty Don's approach so effective.

4. Choose the best plants

If you want to soften a path with pots in true Monty Don style, the trick is to choose a good mix of plants. Christopher recommends combining spillers – plants that tumble over the edge of the container – with more structural plants that provide height and texture.

For sunny paths, Mexican fleabane (£3.99 at Crocus) is one of his favourites. It produces clouds of small pink-and-white daisy-like flowers and is particularly good at spilling over pot edges, creating the relaxed feel of a cottage garden.

'Creeping thyme (£8.99 at J.Parker's) works well in shallow bowls. It can trail over the edge, copes with relatively dry conditions and releases its scent when brushed against – making it especially appropriate beside a frequently used path,' he adds.

Shop the best plants for pots:

For a shady route, Christopher says that trailing ivy is an easy choice, while hostas provide large leaves that can eventually conceal the sides of their containers.

'I also love Japanese forest grass, as its cascading foliage forms a soft dome and moves gently in the breeze, so long as you give it a nice wide pot,' he points out. 'And for the deepest shade, hart's tongue fern provides lush, evergreen foliage and suits a woodland-style planting scheme.'

FAQs

And just like that, you know how to soften a garden path like Monty Don! Race you to the terracotta pot display down the local garden centre, eh?

Autumn is in full swing, and plenty of plants are still in full bloom – and if you know which plants to deadhead in October, you can extend those displays up to the first frosts.

Deadheading is the one October garden job you’ll want to crack on with if you’re keen to keep your garden looking beautiful until temperatures plummet. Removing spent blooms from the likes of dahlias and cosmos will direct their energy into producing new flowers, and keep your garden nice and tidy at the same time.

Here’s a list of plants to deadhead in October to squeeze the last blooms out of the season (although you could plant a few winter-flowering shrubs to enjoy cold-weather displays).

What you'll need

1. Cosmos

If you’re lucky enough to have cosmos growing in your garden, you’ll know they’re prolific bloomers. With the right care, the displays can continue up to the first frosts – and that’s why deadheading cosmos in October is so important.

‘They’re cut-and-come-again flowers: the more you pick for the vase or remove fading blooms, the more they’ll keep flowering, provided the weather stays mild,’ says Jane Westoby, creative director at The Hampshire Seed Company.

You can deadhead cosmos by hand or add a dedicated deadheading tool to your kit, like the Kent & Stowe Garden Life Pruning Snips.

2. Zinnias

The same principle applies to zinnias: they’re cut-and-come-again blooms, which means the more you deadhead them in October, the more flowers you’ll enjoy before the colder weather arrives.

‘If you leave spent flowers on the plant, they put energy into making seed instead,’ says Jane.

3. Dahlias

If you’re wondering what to do with dahlias in October, deadheading should be at the top of your list. At this time of the year, many dahlias are still in bloom – and you can extend those displays by nipping off faded flowers.

'Dahlias are an example where removing spent flowers can be worthwhile while they're still actively blooming,' says Ross Dyke, Hornby George's consultant horticulturist and host of the Plant Pod.

Many gardeners use a clean pair of sharp secateurs like the WOLF-Garten Bypass Secateurs (available at Amazon) to deadhead their dahlias.

4. Repeat-flowering roses

Repeat-flowering roses are another example of autumn-flowering shrubs that continue blooming until temperatures drop. The best way to keep them flowering to their fullest potential is by deadheading them throughout October.

‘I’d also keep deadheading any repeat-flowering roses,’ says Jane. ‘The principle is the same: removing fading flowers encourages the plant to put its energy into the next flush.’

It’s wise to deadhead your secateurs using a sharp pair of bypass secateurs like the Kimura® 8" Pro Bypass Garden Secateurs from Amazon.

5. Calendula

Vibrant calendula blooms can also be deadheaded in October to keep them flowering until the weather cools down. They're a self-seeding cottage garden flower, but deadheading can prevent them from spreading.

‘Once frost finishes the tender annuals, though, deadheading won’t bring them back into flower,' adds Jane.

The best time to deadhead calendula, like other plants, is once the petals begin to fade and curl.

Deadhead these plants in October to keep them flowering until the frost arrives!

It's not too late to get your seeds sown for a lovely, colourful spring and summer; in fact, now is the ideal time!

'October is your last real chance to sow hardy annuals and biennials, so they overwinter and flower early next year,' says Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

There are some beautiful varieties to consider; with the help of our experts, here are the best flowers to sow now for a lovely colourful spring and summer.

1. Poppies

Poppies with their saucer-shaped heads and variety of colours, especially from the Icelandic collections, have become increasingly popular over the last two years, and it's easy to see why.

'They can be sown directly outside or in modules; these classic autumn-sown plants survive the winter and then bloom earlier and often more strongly than spring sowings,' shares Julian.

Try your hand at sowing the Iceland Mix from Thompson & Morgan; you get a whopping 1900 seeds for £3.49. Sprinkle the seeds around your borders for a joyful display next year.

Another popular poppy variety is Amazing Grey; you can buy 500 seeds for £3.49 from Marshalls Garden. They are a striking annual with smoky grey/silver petals.

2. Cornflowers

A lovely summery variety that suits cottage-style gardens is the cornflower, they're also a great self-seeder.

'A hardy annual like cornflower can also be sown in suitable conditions for an earlier display next year,' says Lance Russell, horticultural expert at Thompson & Morgan. 'The key is to choose varieties suited to autumn sowing and avoid working the soil when it is waterlogged. With a little planning now, you can get a head start on next year’s garden while still enjoying something to harvest through the winter.'

You can still direct sow them now; we like the classic blue cornflowers. Amazon sell 200 seeds for £3.40 – they're a great pollinator attractor. However, if you prefer a more colourful display, then Thompson & Morgan's Polka Dot Mix is a must, with their pretty cornflower shades of pink, lilac, white and blue, 99p for 200 seeds.

3. Ox-eye daisy

If you love daisies, then raise your game with the ox-eye daisy that can stand at 90cm tall with a lovely big daisy-like head. They are a low-maintenance variety that loves poor, well-draining soil.

According to Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Harvst Automatic Watering, now is the perfect time. 'The cooler, damper weather provides the perfect environment for the seeds to germinate and establish strong root systems before winter arrives.'

Select an area that has full sun or partial shade and where the soil is free-draining. 'These seeds need light to germinate', explains Lucie. 'After clearing the areas of weeds and raking the soil to create a crumbly, level surface, simply scatter the seeds, gently pressing them onto the surface of the soil and using a fine rose on your watering can to moisten the ground without washing away the seeds.'

Buy your seeds from Marshalls Garden; they have 20 Madonna seeds for £3.99, or buy three for £11.97.

4. Aquilegia

Aquilegia is another cottage garden classic that's easy to grow and maintain. Sometimes called columbine and granny's bonnet, they're also self-seeders. They come in a variety of colours: blues and purples, pinks, reds, yellows and creams.

'October is one of the best times to sow aquilegia seeds directly in the ground as they need a period of ‘stratification’ to break them out of dormancy,' explains Lucie.

If you adore colour like us, then pick the Pretty Bonnets Mix from Suttons, £2.79 for 220 seeds in a range of pretty pastel shades. For a purist look, opt for Lime Sorbet seeds that produce green and white flowers, £3.29 for 25 seeds at Dobies.

5. Sweetpeas

'Sweet peas are a great choice at this time of year,' says Will Williamson, horticultural expert at Squire's Garden Centres. 'Sow your sweet peas now and then overwinter them somewhere sheltered, such as an unheated greenhouse or cold frame, ready to give you earlier flowers next year.'

Lance agrees, 'For flowers, sweet peas are well worth sowing now as an autumn sowing gives them plenty of time to develop a strong root system before spring.'

Nothing much beats sweet peas in full bloom with their wonderful scent. There are some amazing colours to choose from too. We particularly love the Old Fashioned Scented Mix from Suttons that includes red, lilac and pink shades, £3.29 for 30 seeds. For a striking single colour choice, consider Princess Elizabeth, a coral/salmon colour that's very vibrant, 21 seeds for £2.85, Chiltern Seeds.

If you don't have space for a greenhouse, then do try a cold frame; we like the wooden design from Dobies, which is currently £39.99.

Essential sowing buys

Putting some time and effort into this month will be so worth it come spring and summer when you look out at your garden and see such a wonderful variety of flowers in stunning colours.

I just scarified my lawn, and what I expected to be a long, tough task was staggeringly simple.

The Vonhaus Lawn Scarifier & Aerator 1500W has been on my wishlist for a while, and last weekend, after months of dry weather, I finally got to use it. I’m not sure I’ll ever go back to a manual scarifier now – it made the task so much easier (effortless, actually), and we managed to scarify our 38m² lawn in under 20 minutes. For £119.99, It’s a worthy investment if you’re wondering how to scarify your lawn for the first time.

Here’s why I loved the Vonhaus Lawn Scarifier & Aerator so much.

It’s the ideal time of year to scarify your lawn (it'll remove dead thatch, moss and debris to encourage airflow and healthier grass), so I thought it was time to finally put the Vonhaus Lawn Scarifier & Aerator (which is also available at Amazon) to the test.

In a nutshell, the electric tool comes with a scarifying drum which drags thatch out of the grass. It requires significantly less elbow grease than a manual tool, though – and it really does make the job a lot faster.

Our lawn is around 28m², and my partner and I finished the task in just under 20 minutes (a new record!). It's so easy to use, only requiring a light push to keep it moving, and you can also adjust the height of the handlebar, which makes a huge difference to the comfort of the tool.

I should mention that the Vonhaus Lawn Scarifier is corded, not cordless. Its 10m cable is perfectly fine for small gardens – but any larger than that, and you’ll need an outdoor extension lead like this Masterplug Outdoor Socket Extension Lead from B&Q.

The cord did restrict our range a little in our 38m² garden, which is probably the only drawback I could find with the tool. If you’d prefer a cordless model, the Einhell Cordless Lawn Scarifier and Aerator is highly rated on Amazon (but it’s almost double the price).

I was blown away by the sheer volume of dead grass, thatch and moss that the Vonhaus Scarifier removed from the lawn. Within just two or three lengths of the lawn, the 30L collector was full – so you’ll just need to remember to empty it at intervals. We also gave the scarifier a whirl without the collection bag attached to see the tool churn out dead grass, so there’s also that option, but you’ll then need to clean up the thatch and debris once you’ve finished scarifying (it’s a little bit different to leaving grass clippings on your lawn).

There are also four depth settings to choose from (-12 to +4mm), changed via a simple handle. As per Vonhaus’s advice, we started with the highest setting, and we actually found that the lower settings scalped parts of the lawn, since it’s already so dead from this summer's heatwaves – but since we’re about to start afresh and reseed our lawn, that isn’t necessarily a bad thing!

If you’re looking to aerate your lawn, Vonhaus says the scarifying drum can do that at the same time, although we didn’t spot any deeper aeration taking place – it seems as though it simply loosens the surface of the soil rather than deeply penetrates the ground, so we’ll be using a separate tool to aerate the lawn properly.

The Vonhaus Lawn Scarifier actually comes with a raking drum, too, which you’re supposed to before the scarifying drum to clear moss and debris – but since our grass was already dead in patches, we found the raking drum actually scalped the lawn instead, and kicked up a huge amount of dust! In fact, Vonhaus advises wearing face protection when using the tool for that very reason. It’s pretty easy to swap out the drums – you just need an Allen key, which comes with the scarifier.

Other autumn lawn care essentials

If you want to scarify your lawn in a fraction of the time it would usually take, without the effort, the Vonhaus Lawn Scarifier & Aerator 1500W is well worth the investment.

Next, I'm using the Miracle-Gro Drop Spreader to sow new grass...

While this year’s long, hot summer left many of the plants in my garden suffering in the heat, the lavender wasn’t one of them. Despite very little water and not-much looking after, the lavender thrived and looked great all summer long.

But with summer over, it has started to look a little straggly, so finding out what to do with lavender in October is top of my autumn to-do list to ensure it comes back happy and healthy next year.

‘A Mediterranean staple, in October, the main job with lavender is to finish any autumn pruning early in the month, then leave it alone and focus on winter prep,’ advises Julian Palphramand, Head of Plants at British Garden Centres.

Read on to find out the key tasks you need to focus on this month to ensure your lavender finishes off the season in prime condition.

1. Give lavender a final trim but don’t prune it

When it comes to when to cut back lavender, the ideal pruning window is late summer, right after the flowers have faded and the bees have stopped visiting, but it’s not too late to give straggly lavender a tidy-up.

‘If you haven’t pruned your lavender yet, do a light tidy-up as soon as possible,’ advises Julian. ‘Remove all the old flower stems and trim back about 2cm of the current year’s green growth to keep the plant compact and mounded, but don’t cut into the old, bare wood.’

Lavender rarely regrows from old wood, producing most of its new growth from younger stems that still have leaves and cutting into old, woody stems can permanently harm the plant and put it at risk of frost damage.

‘Finish pruning by early to mid-October at the latest, so the plant has time to harden off before the first frosts,’ adds Julian. ‘But if you’re in late October and frost is close, it’s better to wait and do a light tidy in late February or March instead.’

‘When growing lavender, avoid pruning in October,’ agrees Craig Wilson, co-founder and gardening expert at Gardeners Dream. ‘If you cut back your lavender now, the freshly cut stems will be vulnerable to frost, which could kill your plant altogether. Your lavender can wait until springtime to be pruned to keep it well protected in the cold weather’

Shop these tidying essentials

2. Make sure your lavender isn’t sitting in soggy soil

After this year’s hot summer, low-maintenance Mediterranean plants like lavender have become a top pick for gardens going forward, but as with any sun-loving plant like this, our wet British weather can be a problem, so special care should be taken over autumn and winter.

‘As the autumn rain hits, you do need to make sure your lavender is sitting in well-drained soil and not wet, water-logged conditions,’ advises Craig. ‘If any leaves or old foliage are covering the soil, it can keep the soil too wet, which will lead to rotting. Therefore, be sure to remove any debris from the base of your lavender to improve its drainage.’

‘For hardy English lavender in the ground, good drainage is really important,’ adds Julian. ‘If your soil is heavy, add grit around the base and avoid mulching right up to the stems, which can trap moisture and encourage rot. BetterGrow coarse grit, from £5.99 at Amazon, is a great option.

‘In very exposed or wet gardens, a loose cover of straw or evergreen boughs over the plant can help protect it from harsh weather, but don’t wrap it tightly or it will sweat and rot,’ adds Julian.

3. Keep care to a minimum

‘When it comes to looking after lavender in the autumn months, keep care minimal,’ advises Julian. ‘You don’t need to feed lavender in autumn, as extra nitrogen just pushes soft growth that winter will hit harshly.’

‘And when it comes to fragrant shrubs like lavender in borders, you don’t need to water established plants unless the autumn is exceptionally dry,’ adds Julian.

When winter does arrive, you should avoid watering lavender in beds and borders if the soil is frost-free and permeable; otherwise, roots could be damaged if the water in the soil then freezes due to cold temperatures.

4. Bring potted lavender indoors if necessary

‘The type of lavender you have will depend on whether or not you need to bring your plant indoors over winter,’ advises Craig. ‘For example, French or Spanish lavender will need to be brought indoors, either into a greenhouse or on a windowsill, to avoid them being harmed by the upcoming frosty weather.’

'When it comes to overwintering lavender in pots, move tender types in pots such as French and Spanish lavender into a sheltered spot, greenhouse or cold frame before the first frost,’ adds Julian. ‘Raise them on pot feet so they don’t sit in water, and stop watering from October through to March except in prolonged dry spells.’

Shop for plant pot feet

How did your lavender fare this summer? Let us know.

Wondering which plants to propagate in September? You're in luck, as it's actually one of the best months of the gardening calendar for taking cuttings!

Yes, the soil is still warm from summer, many plants are producing healthy new growth, and there's more than enough time for young plants to establish roots before winter sets in, making September prime propagation time.

As you know already, propagating plants is one of the easiest ways to expand your garden without spending a penny. All it takes is a few pots, some free-draining compost and a little patience, and you can grow new versions of many of your favourite flowers to plant out next year or give away to family and friends. What more incentive do you need to grow plants from cuttings, quite frankly?

6 beautiful plants to propagate in September

Keen to get to work but not quite sure where to start? Don't worry, we've got all the bases covered.

While a propagation station is optional, you will need:

Once you've got all that, it's time to get started. So, from fragrant lavender to colourful fuchsias, we asked gardening experts to share the best plants to propagate this September – and you'd best believe they came up trumps...

1. Lavender

Few plants are as popular in British gardens as lavender, and September is an excellent time to take semi-ripe cuttings.

According to Morris Hankinson, Managing Director of Hopes Grove Nurseries, it's important to choose healthy, non-flowering growth for the best chance of success.

'Cut non-flowering, semi-ripe cuttings around 10cm long from healthy growth, then remove the lower leaves and plant them into pots of gritty, free-draining compost. Keep them somewhere sheltered and bright,' he says.

With the right conditions, the cuttings should begin producing roots over the coming weeks, giving you plenty of new lavender plants for next summer.

2. Hydrangea

Sitting pretty near the top of our list of plants to propagate in September is a beloved favourite. And if your hydrangeas have put on a spectacular display this year, why not seize the opportunity to create more?

Morris recommends avoiding flowering stems and instead selecting healthy green growth. 'Choose a healthy stem that hasn't flowered and cut just below a leaf joint,' he says. 'Remove the lower leaves and place the cutting into a pot of moist, free-draining compost. Keep it sheltered from strong sun and frost.'

Keeping the compost lightly moist will help encourage strong root development over autumn.

3. Fuchsia

Fuchsias are among the easiest flowering plants to propagate, making them an ideal choice for beginners. And, according to Morris, healthy young shoots are all you need to get started.

'Cut from young, healthy shoots and trim them just below a pair of leaves. Remove the lower leaves and insert into free-draining compost. Keep them somewhere bright and frost free,' he says.

By next spring, you'll have well-established young plants ready to pot on or plant out after the last frosts.

4. Pelargonium

Whether you have come down with a case of pelargonsjuka (aka the hot Scandi gardening trend) or not, pelargoniums are another favourite that respond particularly well to propagation in early autumn.

Unlike some plants, Morris recommends allowing the cut end to dry slightly before planting. 'Cut from healthy shoots, remove the lower leaves and allow the cut ends to dry for a few hours before planting into free-draining compost,' he suggests.

Keeping the new plants indoors or in a greenhouse over winter will give them the best chance of thriving.

5. Salvia

If you want more plants to propagate in September, wide varieties of salvia can also be grown successfully from cuttings at this time of year. Just be careful, though, as Morris advises choosing stems that haven't flowered.

'Many salvias root readily from semi-ripe cuttings taken in late summer or early autumn,' he says. 'Choose a non-flowering shoot, trim it below a leaf node and remove the lower foliage. Plant into gritty compost and keep somewhere sheltered while the roots develop.'

Once rooted, the young plants can be grown on before planting into the garden next year.

6. Honeysuckle

For gardeners looking to add more climbers without the cost, honeysuckle is another excellent option when it comes to choosing which plants to propagate in September.

'Look for healthy shoots from this year's growth, around 10–15cm long and cut just below a leaf joint,' says Morris. 'Remove the lower leaves and place the cutting into a pot of free-draining compost. Then, keep it somewhere sheltered and protected from harsh frosts while it develops roots.'

While honeysuckle cuttings can take a little longer to establish than some other plants, they're well worth the wait and can eventually produce vigorous climbers covered in fragrant blooms.

FAQs

Whichever plants you choose to propagate this September, there are a few simple rules that will improve your chances of success. Always use clean, sharp secateurs like the Kimura secateurs from Amazon to make healthy cuts, remove the lower leaves before planting and choose a free-draining compost to prevent cuttings from sitting in overly wet conditions.

Keeping pots in a sheltered position out of direct sunshine (but still with plenty of light) and protecting young plants from frost will also help them establish strong roots over the coming months.

With very little effort, September's cuttings can reward you with dozens of free plants to fill borders, containers and hanging baskets next year, making now one of the most rewarding times to get out into the garden. Time to get snippy, we say!

Ever heard of Elaeagnus? Gardening expert and television presenter David Domoney thinks it’s one of the best evergreen shrubs you can plant for autumn scent.

There are plenty of autumn-flowering shrubs you can plant to keep your garden in bloom as the rest of the garden winds down for the year, but if you’re looking for a plant that retains its foliage all year round, Elaeagnus (also known as silverberry) might be the most underrated pick.

In David’s recent Instagram reel, he explains exactly why Elaeagnus is such a remarkable plant – and why it works a little differently from many other evergreen shrubs.

We’re spoilt for choice when it comes to evergreen plants for borders, but Elaeagnus isn’t one you usually spot on a list of recommendations. David thinks it’s one of the best shrubs you can plant for autumn interest, though.

‘There are few plants that give so much all year round as this Elaeagnus [with its] beautiful evergreen variegated foliage,’ said David in his Instagram reel.

David’s talking about variegated varieties like Elaeagnus × submacrophylla 'Limelight', which you can buy from Crocus. But it isn’t just the foliage that steals the show – its seasonal cycle, David explains in the caption, is the opposite of many other evergreen shrubs, because it flowers in autumn and produces fruits in the spring.

‘Fragrant flowers appear in autumn, rather than spring,’ David wrote in the caption. ‘They may be small and subtle, but their scent can be surprisingly powerful, and they can be valuable for late-flying pollinators.’

Elaeagnus, then, is ideal if you’re looking for scented shrubs that will fill your garden with gorgeous fragrance during the autumn months. After that, you’ll spot a wave of fruit in the spring, which are often orange or red in colour.

'Elaeagnus is brilliant for autumn fragrance because several of the best evergreen types, especially Elaeagnus × ebbingei and E. pungens, flower in autumn, from September into November, with small, creamy-white flowers that release an intense, sweet perfume,' agrees Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres.

'The scent is strong enough to carry across the garden, yet the flowers themselves are modest and tucked into the foliage, so you get the perfume without a showy display.'

Plus, Elaeagnus is really easy to look after, since it’s such a hardy shrub - and if you're looking for low-maintenance evergreen shrubs that provide privacy all year round, you'll want this one on your radar.

‘Elaeagnus is also a tough, adaptable shrub, making it particularly useful for hedging, screening and exposed gardens, including many coastal locations,’ David added.

The good news? You can plant Elaeagnus now.

'Pot-grown plants can be planted year-round as long as the ground isn’t frozen or waterlogged,' says Julian. 'Autumn planting is ideal because the soil is still warm and roots keep growing until winter, giving the shrub a head start for spring. Plant in well-drained soil, firm in well, water thoroughly, and mulch to protect the roots over winter.'

Planting kit

If you want to keep your garden smelling lovely this autumn and retain attractive foliage over the winter months, plant Elaeagnus now.

During autumn and winter, our borders can look a little uninspiring and patchy. To combat this, you can fill them with evergreen plants to close up gaps.

Julian Palphramand, head of plants at British Garden Centres, explains, 'For evergreen ground cover that actually fills a border and keeps weeds down, you want plants that spread steadily but don’t run away.'

Not sure what to consider? Julian and our other gardening experts give their top five plants below.

1. Bugleweed

Bugleweed is a low-growing, quick-covering variety that works particularly well around shrubs and trees. It has bluey flowers from April to June and is a member of the mint family.

'Most varieties of bugleweed have glossy foliage that keeps its colour all year,' says Richard Barker, horticultural expert and commercial director of LBS Horticulture. 'If you live somewhere that experiences harsher winters or heavy snow, some varieties will behave like semi-evergreens, meaning that they may lose some leaves before bouncing back in spring. The leaves of bugleweed grow to form a dense carpet and can range in colour depending on the species being grown.'

Burgundy Glow is a lovely variety that has lilac/purple leaves and is very low maintenance; buy a 9cm pot to get started, £4.99, J.Parkers. For a hint of colour in the spring, consider Black Scallop for its dark, near-black leaves and deep blue flowers in the spring; £12.90 for a 9cm pot, Farmer Gracy.

2. Pachysandra

'A great groundcover plant for shade or partial shade is the Pachysandra, which is as tough as they come and very adaptable to soil type,' says Nick Hamilton, owner of Barnsdale Gardens. 'I love the variety 'Green Carpet, with its fresh green leaves and its small spikes of white flowers in early summer.'

Lucie Bradley, gardening and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation, loves it too: 'Japanese spurge is a robust, low-growing, evergreen perennial ideal for tricky north-facing gardens as it thrives in partial to deep shade, growing very often in difficult spots where it’s hard to grow other plants.'

According to Lucie, if you want to introduce this into your garden borders, then anytime between September and November is great, as the soil will still be warm from the summer months whilst autumn rains will provide the moisture these plants need to help them establish quickly.

The most common variety has dark green leaves with serrated edges and loves sun and shade; you can buy a 9cm pot for £7.99 from Crocus.

3. Bergenia

Bergenias have bold, paddle-shaped leaves; hence the other name it has: 'elephant's ears'. They are great for ground cover and flower with white, pale pink and magenta flowers from February to April.

'A shade-loving plant, Bergenia (elephant’s ears) gives big, glossy leaves that often colour bronze in winter, plus spring flowers, and it’s tough enough for tricky spots,' says Julian.

Also good in rock gardens, we like the Rosi Klose variety for its pink flowers, £9.99 for a 2-litre pot, GardeningExpress. The white version has really pretty flowers that stand out well against the leaves: Bressingham White, £11.99 for a 2-litre pot, GardeningExpress.

4. Vinca minor (lesser periwinkle)

Vinca minor, or lesser periwinkle as it's also called, is another great evergreen that produces flowers during the spring months.

'It's a classic: glossy evergreen leaves, blue or white flowers in spring, and it copes well in dry shade,' says Julian.

Richard adds, 'Periwinkle is a tough plant that can thrive in all but the most extreme soil, and it makes for a good ground cover plant. Although not as invasive as greater periwinkle, lesser periwinkle can still escape your garden to grow in other places, so it should be cut back regularly.'

For a pop of purple, choose the Bowles' Variety, from £11.99, Thompson & Morgan. It's great for encouraging spreading over areas nothing else will grow on. For superb colour, consider Illumination, £12.99 for a 1 litre pot, GardeningExpress. This special variety has golden variegated foliage and mauve-blue flowers in spring and early summer.

5. Creeping phlox

'Creeping phlox is an evergreen perennial that will retain its low-growing mat of foliage through winter,' shares Richard. 'The needle-like leaves of the plant usually stay green all year, but cold winter winds can make small areas of the leaves turn brown. In spring, the plant produces a colourful carpet of star-shaped flowers, and as it forms a tight-growing mat it naturally suppresses weeds.'

Perhaps one of our favourites for its beautiful colours, creeping phlox is a perennial herbaceous plant that can be planted underneath trees and shrubs this autumn.

The Bavaria variety is super pretty with its white flowers that have a purple centre, from £8.99 for a 9cm pot, Crocus. The evergreen foliage and ease of spread doubled with stunning colours, are what you get with the creeping phlox collection, from £8.99, Dobies. You get a variety of colours, and they come as plug plants.

Shopping essentials

Investing in evergreen ground cover plants now will transform your garden, ready for next year – and give you some colour too – and suppress weeds, which we love! Check out our top five and see which you love the best.

Ever used a bulb planter? I’ve always wondered if they’re really a necessary garden tool – and then I used the Kent & Stowe hand bulb planter.

It’s designed for larger bulbs like daffodils, and since the cheerful spring flowers were on my list of spring bulbs to plant in September, I decided to give it a whirl. After a scorching summer, my garden borders are particularly dry right now – but the bulb planter’s design made planting a breeze.

Here’s what I love about the Kent & Stowe hand bulb planter, which is just £6.13 at Amazon – and why it’s convinced me that bulb planters really are worth adding to your garden tool collection.

The Kent & Stowe hand bulb planter has a serrated edge, so it’s easy enough to insert into the soil – even if yours, like mine, is hard and heat-baked after all the heatwaves. You'll just need to twist it a bit on tougher earth.

There’s also, of course, a handy measurement scale on the side – four inches, which guides a consistent planting depth (and learning how to plant bulbs properly is really important if you want them to grow and flower well).

Once you’ve pushed the Kent & Stowe hand bulb planter into the soil at the required depth (I had to double-check how deep I should plant daffodil bulbs!), you simply twist the tool and pull the core of earth from the ground. It tasks a bit of wiggling if your soil is particularly dry and compacted, but it’s so much easier than digging the hole with a hand trowel.

Then, you simply pop the bulb in the bottom of the hole (you can use some bulb starter beforehand like Empathy Bulb Starter Biofertiliser from Amazon to encourage strong root growth), and empty the soil within the bulb planter over the planting hole to fill it back in. All in all, it’s a satisfying process – and it really is as simple as it sounds. For reference, I planted Narcissus 'Bridal Crown' bulbs, which you can order from Thompson & Morgan.

The Kent & Stowe hand bulb planter is also a durable tool. It's traditionally styled, and as sturdy as it is nice to look at. The metal part is made from carbon steel, and the handle is crafted from beautiful FSC-certified ash wood. It’s no wonder it has a 10-year guarantee.

At 23cm long, the bulb planter is bigger than I expected – but since it’s designed for larger bulbs, it makes sense. If you'll be planting your daffodil bulbs together, it's handy for making multiple larger holes in one area.

Bulb planting kit

The Kent & Stowe Hand Bulb Planter has completely transformed the way I plant spring bulbs. It's affordable, durable and so easy to use.

While much of the garden will be looking bleak and barren come December, adding a few cheery winter-flowering plants in containers is an easy way of brightening things up so the outlook doesn’t feel so grey.

And now is the perfect time to get planting if you’re thinking about container plants that will bloom in time for Christmas. Get plants started off now and you’ll be giving them a head start, resulting in a brighter and bolder display of winter-flowering blooms when December comes around.

‘For colour that lasts into December, look at a mix of hardy winter bedding plants, late perennials and a few shrubs that will genuinely keep on going,’ says Julian Palphramand, Head of Plants at British Garden Centres. ‘Pansies and violas are brilliant workhorses at this time of year and will flower through most winters, especially in pots or sheltered borders. But there are plenty of other options that will bring winter colour too.'

1. Christmas rose

‘One of my favourite plants for adding winter colour to a garden is the hellebores orChristmas rose,’ says Julian. ‘With flat, white flowers and lush greenery, they start to open from midwinter, but in a mild December you’ll often see the first blooms by late in the month, especially on early varieties.’

‘There are some fabulous plants you can pot now to ensure a lovely display at Christmas time,’ says Craig Wilson, co-founder and gardening expert at Gardeners Dream. ‘The Christmas rose, in particular the helleborous niger, will give your garden a beautiful bloom come Christmas, with the whites of the rose offering a classic festive feel.

‘Christmas roses can be planted anytime between now and November. When planting roses, make sure to soak the roots of the plant in water first and place it in a pot that is around 12 to 24 inches deep to accommodate its long roots. Ensure that the hole in your pot is twice as wide and deep as the root ball of the rose before placing it gently in and patting down with good drainage soil.’

‘Place in a sheltered, shady spot in your garden and water around once a week to begin with, relying on natural rainfall once established, unless the winter brings a significantly dry period,’ adds Craig.

Where to buy Christmas rose plants:

• Gardeners Dream: Add festive colour with this pretty helleborous niger, from £12.99.
• Gardening Express: Or try this dramatic deep red Helleborus x hybridus 'Double Ellen Red', £15.99.

Shop these frost-proof containers

2. Winter heather

‘Winter-flowering heathers such as Erica carnea and E. × darleyensis flower from December into May, giving low, neat colour when most other plants are dormant,’ says Julian. 'Compact in size, heathers are ideal for containers and small gardens; just ensure you use well-drained, neutral to acid soil and they should thrive.’

'Cold-loving, low-growing plants that cover pots in shades of vivid magenta, ruby red and fresh white, when everything else looks bleak, winter-flowering heathers are super easy to grow and a great choice for beginners,’ says Jack Tian, plant expert from ThornOasis at Palmstreet app.

'Pack winter heathers tightly around the edge of a container to frame taller plants,’ advises Jack, ‘and position containers in full sun or light, open shade. Unlike summer plants, these can tolerate multi-purpose compost, though mixing in a bit of acidic soil will make them happier.'

Where to buy winter heather plants:

• B&Q: Add colour with a pack of mixed winter heathers, £14.99.
• Hedges Direct: Or try this pretty all-white Calluna GardenGirls White, £5.99.

3. Violas

‘Violas are another great choice for winter flowers, with a vibrancy that will add a lovely pop of colour for those darker days, says Craig.

‘For violas, your pot size should be about eight to twelve inches deep, and you will need to leave around six inches between each viola plant,' advises Craig. 'Place in a lighter position in your garden and water about once a week, reducing if rainfall increases. Also, it’s important to deadhead your violas regularly to ensure fresh blooms keep coming throughout the winter months.'

‘And with all winter containers, make sure to raise your pots off the floor using pot feet to enhance drainage and allow excess winter rain to drain away properly.’

Where to buy viola plants:

• Thompson & Morgan: These elegant blue and white blooms will brighten up pots - Viola 'Delft Blue', from £14.99.
• Amazon: Try this mixed pack of 9 x pansy violas, £24.99.

4. Sarcococca

‘Sarcococca, also known as Christmas box, is a small, fragrant shrub that you can pot in September for festive colour,’ says Julian. ‘It’s grown mainly for its winter scent, and the tiny white flowers open from late December into January, but the buds are already formed now, so the plant looks good in a pot all winter.’

Super-easy to grow, sarcococca is often referred to as ‘unkillable’ as it tolerates most soil types, requires little maintenance and minimal watering, making it the perfect choice for beginners. Suitable for large pots and containers, opt for a compact option like xxxx if you have a smaller garden or patio.

Where to buy sarcococca plants:

• Gardeners Dream: Lush foliage and highly scented, try this Sarcococca hookeriana, £22.99.
• Crocus: Or try this sweetly-scented pure white sarcococca confusa sweet box, from £7.99.

5. Viburnum tinus

‘Viburnum tinus is a low-maintenance evergreen shrub with pretty pinky white flower clusters that will bring colour to both winter borders and seasonal containers,’ suggests Julian. ‘Go for a large pot and plant viburnum in September, keeping it in sun or part shade. You’ll often see the first white flower clusters opening by mid‑ to late December in a mild year.’

‘Always choose frost-proof pots for outdoor displays over winter,’ says Jack. ‘Avoid standard terracotta, which absorbs water, expands in a freeze and cracks. Instead choose ceramic, resin, or wood if you can.'

‘Sit your exterior pots on bricks or pot feet to elevate them. This allows heavy winter rain to drain away easily, stopping the compost from turning into ice that contributes to root rot.’

‘And don’t feed container plants between November through January,’ adds Jack. ‘They are not producing new growth and cannot absorb nutrients as easily.’

Where to buy viburnum tinus plants:

• Primrose: Long-lasting pink flowers, accentuated by darker-toned foliage, try this Viburnum Tinus Eve Price, from £17.49.
• Thompson & Morgan: Or go for the winter-flowering all-white Viburnum tinus 'French White', £34.99.

6. Mahonia

‘When it comes to winter-flowering fragrant shrubs, Mahonia is another top pick for outdoor pots, with its clusters of yellow flowers, holly-like leaves and sweet scent,’ suggests Julian.

‘Varieties like Mahonia × media ‘Charity’ are certainly worth a try. Plant a small specimen in a large pot in September in a sheltered, sunny spot and well-drained soil. It often starts its yellow, scented flower spikes from late November into December.’

Mahonia copes well with root competition, so can be underplanted with similarly shade-loving companions such as heuchera, skimmia or ferns, or try planting spring bulbs in the same container to add a flash of colour early in the new year.

Where to buy mahonia plants:

• Dobies: Add a burst of cheery colour with this Mahonia x media 'Winter Sun', from £12.99.
• Gardening Expressz: Or go for the orangey tones of this Mahonia nitens cabaret, £24.99.

7. Christmas cactus

'When it comes to indoor plants that will bloom in time for the festive period, then Christmas cactus is the classic favourite, producing a luscious array of bright flowers in December,’ says Jack.

‘Christmas Cactus are a type of tropical plant, so they dislike too much water in their soil,’ advises Jack. ‘Keep them happy by using a free-draining, compost mixture and keep them in a brightly lit room but away from scorching midday sun. To encourage winter growth, give this plant some rest in the fall by cutting back on watering and keeping it in cooler temperatures.'

Where to buy Christmas cactus plants:

• Crocus: Enjoy a long-last display of colour indoors with this Schlumbergera orange flowered Christmas cactus, from £10.39.
• B&Q: Or go for the white blooms of this white Christmas Cactus Schlumbergera indoor plant, £19.99.

8. Poinsettia

'Poinsettia is the iconic choice for bright Christmas foliage,’ says Jack. ‘Its magnificent, brightly coloured leaves provide instant, festive cheer indoors all season long, making it one of the best Christmas houseplants.’

'Poinsettias are incredibly sensitive to cold draughts and temperature drops,’ adds Jack. ‘Keep poinsettias happy by placing them in a warm, stable room with plenty of bright, indirect light and water only when the top of the soil feels dry.’

‘And my top tip: never buy a poinsettia sitting near the automatic entrance doors in the store. The cold draughts will cause the leaves to drop a few days after you get it home.’

Where to buy poinsettia plants:

• Gardeners Dream: Fill rooms with festive colour with this cheery red Poinsettia plant, £24.99.
• Plants4Presents: Or go for an alternative to classic red with this White Poinsettia, £33.

So there you have it... Get started planting now to ensure a colourful display of blooms come Christmas.

As our gardens start to lose their summer shine, now’s the perfect time to start thinking ahead and getting things prepped for spring. Top of the autumn ‘to-do’ list is bulb-planting and if you want a garden packed with both colour and fragrance, then choosing scented spring bulbs is the way to go.

Planting scented bulbs is a fabulous way of bringing early spring colour and fragrance to your outdoor space, whether planted up in containers, window boxes and hanging baskets near the front door or in flower beds and borders in the back garden, ensuring you’ll be greeted by a waft of spring-fresh fragrance whenever you head outside. And September is the perfect time to plant spring bulbs.

‘There’s no better welcome home in spring than a burst of fragrance at your front door,’ says Shelley Davis, plant expert at Flying Flowers. ‘And by planting fragrant bulbs in doorstep containers or close to your windows means you can enjoy their scent every time you come and go.’

1. Hyacinth

‘If you want your spring garden to look and smell good, hyacinths are an all-round great choice,’ says Shelley. ‘Their tightly packed flowers come in a variety of gorgeous shades including pink, purple, white, and blue, but it’s their strong, sweet fragrance that really makes them stand out.’

‘When planting hyacinth bulbs, they'll generally bloom in early to mid-spring, around March and April, making them particularly effective when planted in containers near doors, windows, or seating areas, where their fragrance can be appreciated up close.’

‘For a more generous hit of scent, the trick for how to plant hyacinth bulbs is to put several bulbs together rather than relying on a single plant,’ adds Shelley. ‘Just make sure containers have good drainage, as hyacinth bulbs won’t thank you for sitting in waterlogged compost over winter.’

‘Hyacinths are one of my favourite scented spring bulbs,’ says Craig Wilson, gardening expert and co-founder of Gardeners Dream. ‘Not only do they come in a range of bold colours to create a bright, vibrant garden, but they also offer a sweet aroma to create an inviting garden.’

‘If you plant your hyacinth bulbs around September to October, you can expect to see them flower between March and April. Just opt for a sunny or partially shaded spot, planting bulbs around four to six inches deep into the soil and ensuring the soil offers good drainage to avoid waterlogging.’

Where to buy hyacinth bulbs:

• Crocus: Enjoy a swathe of fragrant blue flowers with these Hyacinthus orientalis 'Delft Blue', from £7.99.
• Gardeners Dream: Or go for a variety of colours with this Hyacinth Garden Mix, from £12.99.

Shop these planters for front gardens

2. Narcissus ‘geranium’

‘For a bulb that packs plenty of fragrance into a relatively small space, narcissus 'geranium' is a showstopper,’ says Shelley. ‘It’s a Tazetta daffodil, a group known for its scented flowers, with several blooms carried on each stem. Its white petals and warm orange centres also make it an easy way to add a little more interest to a spring display.

'And it’s a great choice that works particularly well in a pot or border close to the house in a front garden.’

‘Narcissus acatea and narcissus geraniums are a good choice,’ says Chris Bonnet, founder of Gardening Express. ‘Narcissus acatea releases a rich, sweet fragrance while narcissus geranium has a strong, zesty scent.’

‘When it comes to planting in the ground, find a spot in the front garden with good drainage, dig a hole around three times the height of the bulb, and place the pointy end up,’ adds Chris. ‘Leave around two bulb widths between each, cover with soil, and nature will do the rest.’

Where to buy narcissus geranium bulbs:

• Primrose: Richly-scented and in delicate clusters, try these Narcissus Geranium, Tazetta Daffodil, £21.98.
• Sarah Raven: These pretty multi-headed blooms are loved by pollinators - Narcissus 'Geranium' Daffodil, from £7.77.

3. Tulips

‘While mostly known for their vivid colours and clean shapes, several tulip varieties carry a surprisingly rich scent, ranging from light citrus notes to deep honey,’ says Shelley. ‘Sweet-smelling varieties like ‘ballerina’ and ‘angelique’ are perfect for adding both visual drama and a delicate perfume to your entryway.’

‘Blooming in mid-to-late spring, they thrive in sunny, sheltered spots. Plant tulip bulbs in deep containers or near pathways, ensuring the soil drains well so the bulbs remain healthy throughout winter,’ adds Shelley.

‘Tulip ballerina, with its sweet, citrus scent, is another great choice for front garden containers,’ agrees Chris. ‘If you’re opting for containers, make sure the pots have large drainage holes and raise them on pot feet or bricks to avoid them becoming waterlogged and use a good quality compost.’

‘Bulbs can be planted much closer together in containers than in the ground, just make sure they don’t touch each other or the side of the pot. And do water immediately after planting and keep the soil slightly damp throughout winter,’ adds Chris.