This summer is on track to be the hottest on record, but when UK housing stock is designed to keep heat in rather than out, it's no wonder that so many of our homes are overheating.

Air conditioning is an incredibly effective way to lower the ambient temperature in a room, but with portable units sold out all over the place, more and more people are turning to fitted air conditioning to maintain a comfortable environment during the summer months.

But what happens if you live in a rented property? Can you ask your landlord to fit air conditioning and do they have to do it? I asked letting and legal experts about the rules on both sides.

Can you request your landlord fits air conditioning?

If you find your rented home is overheating in the warmer months, there is no harm in requesting air conditioning from your landlord.

'Tenants can certainly ask their landlord whether they would consider installing air conditioning, particularly where there are concerns about overheating, but there is currently no general legal requirement for landlords in England to provide fitted air conditioning in rented homes,' explains solicitor Manjinder Kaur Atwal, Director of Housing/Property Litigation at Duncan Lewis Solicitors.

'Landlords have a responsibility to ensure homes are safe, healthy and fit for people to live in, and this includes considering issues such as excessive heat. However, the approach to managing heat will often depend on the individual property, its design, location and the needs of the household.

'Where a tenant feels their home is regularly becoming uncomfortably hot, we would encourage them to raise this with their landlord or housing provider so that the issue can be discussed and appropriate solutions considered.'

This might include weighing up the pros and cons of fitted versus portable air conditioning, or it might be that the addition of blackout curtains or extra shade precautions solves the overheating problem.

Is a landlord legally obliged to fit air conditioning?

While you can ask your landlord to fit air conditioning, there is no legal obligation for them to do so.

'Air conditioning isn't something landlords are legally obliged to provide in UK rental homes,' says David Breare, a property and lettings expert at CanonburyManagement. 'Their legal responsibilities are centred around making sure a property is safe and suitable to live in, rather than providing extra comforts. That said, as temperatures become less predictable, more landlords will be thinking about installing cooling features, particularly in flats that tend to retain heat throughout the day.'

However, landlords may try other measures to reduce the overheating problem, as Manjinder explains: 'Before installing air conditioning, landlords and tenants may want to consider other measures that can help keep homes cooler, such as improving ventilation, using shading solutions, fitting blinds or curtains, and making sure windows and doors can be used effectively to manage airflow.'

This might also included opting for a portable air conditioner (if they can find one in stock) instead.

Can a tenant fit air conditioning themselves?

If your budget will stretch, it is possible that you could have air conditioning installed at your own cost, but you will need to make sure you have written consent from your landlord. While fitted air conditioning doesn't usually need planning permission (provided it's also used for heating as well as cooling), depending on where you live, you may also need additional permissions.

'A tenant could have it fitted at their cost, but subject to terms and conditions,' explains Valerie Bannister, Lettings Technical Director for the LSL Franchisor Group, who has more than 40 years experience in the lettings industry. 'The tenant must have the landlord’s consent in writing as a Tenancy Agreement will include a standard clause that “no change can be made to fixtures and fittings without the landlord’s consent.”'

It may also be that your landlord wants to ensure the air conditioning isn't an eyesore, and as such, will have specific requirements to keep it's impact on the look of the property as minimal as possible.

'Installation of an air conditioning in Leasehold block of flats would require for instance the Landlord obtaining permission from the Freeholder of the building,' continues Valerie. 'And dependent on the lay out and location of the block may require specific planning permission, particularly if it is in a Conservation area.

'If a landlord was able to consider a tenant’s request to install air conditioning at their own cost, very typically this will require a schedule of works from an approved installer , and to take into consideration any particular Leasehold terms and conditions.

'A landlord could expect the property to be returned to its original presentation when the tenancy comes to an end, so a tenant would also need to factor in a de installation cost and making good any re decoration/plastering works.'

What's the best way to approach asking your landlord to fit air conditioning?

As a first step, you should make a request in writing to either the letting agent or, if you deal with them directly for repairs, your landlord.

'The best approach is to be realistic and come prepared,' says David. 'Explain why you think air conditioning would make a genuine difference in the property. It also helps to show you've thought about the practical side, whether that's suggesting a portable unit instead, offering to contribute towards the cost or asking if there are alternatives the landlord would be happy to consider.'

It may help to carefully consider which rooms can benefit most from air conditioning to help build your argument.

It's also important to be really clear on what the proposed installation will entail, and the details that will need to be confirmed in the agreement.

'Fitted systems involve drilling through external walls, electrical work, condensate drainage, and an outdoor unit, so the agreement should cover the installer, exact location, maintenance, noise, ownership and what happens when the tenancy ends,' adds Tom Houlker, an expert HVAC engineer and the Director of Houlkair.

Be prepared to be flexible though. Just because you request air conditioning, doesn't mean your landlord will oblige. However, they may offer alternative solutions that will have a positive effect.

We've already experienced three heatwaves so far this year, and the summer isn't over yet. And with UK homes designed to retain heat rather than repel it, it's unsurprising that people are turning to permanent cooling installations to maintain comfort levels over summer.

Fitting air conditioning is becoming a much more popular solution for those wanting to create relief from the sky-high temperatures that we've seen over the last few summers. I myself have had it in my own home for more than a year, and count it as one of the best upgrades I've ever made.

But if you aren't in your forever home and you plan on selling up in the not-too-distant-future, is it still worth installing in order to boost your home's resale value? I asked the experts what they thought.

Can air conditioning add value to a home?

With high temperatures becoming more commonplace, air con units also capable of providing heating in winter, as well as units becoming more readily available and affordable, it's definitely becoming a sought-after feature.

'Air conditioning is fast becoming a must-have in the UK as our summers get hotter and hotter,' explains Karl McArdle, co-founder of The Property Buying Company. 'Not that long ago, having aircon would've been seen as a bit of a luxury, but now more buyers are starting to see it as a genuine game-changer in the comfort stakes, especially in new build homes, apartments and those south-facing properties that get scorching hot.

'While it's not going to have the same wow factor as a loft conversion or a swanky new kitchen, aircon can still help your home stand out from the crowd and give you a bit of an edge when it comes to sale price, especially in the higher end of the market where buyers are increasingly expecting the works.'

How much value could air conditioning add to a property?

On average, experts suggest that fitted air conditioning could add 1-3% to a property's value, as well as making it more attractive to buyers, which can lead to a quicker sale.

'As a guide, a decent energy-efficient system can add up to 3% to a property's value, and during a hot summer it can be the detail that makes a buyer choose your home over a similar one down the road - especially in warmer parts of the country like London and the South East,' says Cal Graham, property expert at We Buy Any Home.

Karl agrees, saying: 'For the right property, a high-quality system could add somewhere in the region of 1-3% to the value. On a home worth around £300,000, that's roughly £3,000 to £9,000. In many cases though, the real value isn't just the extra money, it's attracting more buyers, selling faster and giving sellers a stronger hand when it comes to negotiating offers.'

But depending on your installation, and where you live, the value added may not cover the cover the cost of the install, but it's not the end of the world as Cal explains: 'Buyers rarely pay a straight pound-for-pound return on the installation cost, so it's best thought of as an aid to a faster sale as much as a pure value-adding factor.'

How to maximise how much value air conditioning can add

If you're thinking of selling your home in the not too distant future, then it's worthwhile understanding how you can maximise the value that installing air conditioning may add.

'The key is to treat it like any other quality home improvement,' say Cal. 'Choose a modern, energy-efficient system, and ideally one that also heats as buyers increasingly care about running costs and EPC ratings.

'Use a reputable, certified installer and keep all the paperwork, warranties and servicing records to hand, because buyers and their surveyors will want to see them.

'Position units discreetly so they don't spoil the look of a room or exterior, and check whether you need planning permission or freeholder consent before you start.

Could fitting air conditioning ever devalue a property?

While fitting air conditioning can add value to your home, that's only if it's done well. If not, or without the correct permissions, then it could end up having the opposite effect.

'Air conditioning systems can devalue a property, and this is where people can get caught out,' explains Cal. 'Bulky external condenser units that look out of place or interior units that dominate a room can put off buyers and make a home feel less desirable.

'An old, noisy or poorly maintained unit can also be a red flag as a future repair bill rather than a benefit.'

You should also be mindful to seek permission from the local planning authority before going ahead with an installation, in case air conditioning isn't allowed.

'In listed buildings or conservation areas, an installation done without the right permissions can create a real headache when it comes to selling.'

One of my biggest bugbears when it comes to my driveway is how easily it can go from looking nice and neat to an absolute mess.

I have a part tarmac and part gravel driveway, and it does have it's positives in that it provides an additional off-road parking space, is good for security, and is inexpensive to replenish when it needs it. But the gravel goes everywhere. Whenever it's parked on, the gravel moves around, and I feel like I'm constantly sweeping loose gravel from the public path back on to the driveway to keep things looking neat.

But after spotting my neighbour's new gravel driveway, that doesn't seem to move a muscle even when it's parked on, I was curious as to hers seemed so much lower maintenance than mine. So she told me her secret — gravel grids.

While my gravel sits on top of a weed membrane, like this heavy duty version from Amazon (£25 for 50m), it has no method of containment. Combine that with the fact my driveway is sloped, if it's not a parked car it's foot traffic across the gravel that makes it move around. It's a bit of a downside of this particular driveway material.

Conversely, my neighbour's gravel sits neatly in a gravel grid, meaning it doesn't move around, even when she's driving over it. There's also enough gravel on her driveway that you can't see the grid, so on the face of it, it' just looks like a beautiful, and tidy, driveway. My dream.

Gravel grids work by interlocking grids that form a sort of egg-box structure. Once they are installed, you apply the gravel over the top and manoeuvre it into the holes made by the grid. This prevents the gravel from moving around, keeping it in place. If you use enough gravel, the grids are invisible.

Once finished, the driveway is strong enough to be walked and driven on, and the gravel will stay put.

While I'd previously looked into resurfacing my driveway (I love the look of a resin driveway, but it's not the most affordable option). So now I'm in research mode as to how much it would cost to install something like this on my own driveway.

First I'll get quotes from local driveway companies, then I'll look into how feasible it would be to do on a DIY basis. But as I'd need to remove all of the existing gravel, ensure the base is level before installing a new weed membrane, the gravel grids (which may need to be cut to size), and then the gravel, it may be best that I leave it to a professional.

Summer brings with it a whole host of things to love – long, lazy evenings in the garden which, with any luck, might be in bloom, maybe a trip to the seaside, ice lollies galore..

That said, they are also some downsides to summer – the hot sticky nights that can disrupt a good sleep, buzzing creatures everywhere and, in some cases, the damage hot weather can do to our homes. Tarmac driveways are a good case in point here. While they have much to offer homeowners looking for a low-maintenance and affordable option, they do not always perform so well in a heatwave, with melting being one particular problem.

If this is something that is worrying you, or that you have already started experiencing during the recent scorching temperatures, help is at hand.

Why do tarmac driveways melt in summer?

As driveway materials go, tarmac has to be one of the least needy, yet they are not infallible, and you might start to see signs of driveway damage. Fluctuations in temperature can cause cracks to appear and, if the base wasn't constructed correctly, they can also buckle under the weight of very heavy vehicles.

If you have ever driven abroad, you may well have noticed your tyres sticking to the tarmac on the road a little, or noticed shiny melting patches – but what causes this?

'Tarmac driveways are made up with bitumen that tends to soften in high temperatures,' explains Daniel Wickham, owner of First Impression Driveways. 'This becomes more likely if the tarmac surface is either old, badly laid or sees heavy usage – all while being in direct sunlight.'

What are the signs of a melting driveway?

It doesn't matter whether you have a block paved driveway or a tarmac design, with any summer driveway damage, spotting and fixing the issue as soon as you can is key to ensuring it doesn't cause you too much of a headache.

Given that tarmac tends to soften once temperatures hit around 50°C, you might assume that this won't be a problem here in the UK. However, dark materials absorb heat readily and many driveways sit in direct sunlight – plus ground temperatures are higher than air meaning it is not unrealistic in extreme heat, that a tarmac drive could reach this figure.

"The big red flags are soft patches, tire marks, scuffing, indentations, or when the surface starts to look uneven or distorted," warns Daniel Wickham.

What can you do to prevent a tarmac driveway from melting?

Just as you can prepare your driveway for winter, so too are there steps you can take to make sure it doesn't suffer too much in the summer heat.

Eamonn Turley, a car and road trip specialist at Road Smiles, has some tips on protecting a tarmac drive from the heat. 'Keeping up with regular maintenance – such as sealing when required – protects the bitumen from oxidation and UV degradation which accelerates softening overtime. Proper driveway drainage is important too, since standing water increases the breakdown of the surface between hot days.'

'The issues can be avoided by building the driveway from the start with above standard techniques, using appropriate materials for your driveway and the volume of traffic you expect,' adds Daniel Wickham. 'During extreme heat, it also helps to avoid placing undue stress on the surface, like turning wheels when not moving and leaving heavy vehicles in one spot too long.

'Of course you could always install a brand new tarmac driveway with better quality asphalt materials and have it installed by a good contractor – that would definitely improve how well it lasts through hot spells,' adds Daniel.

What should you do if your tarmac driveway melts?

If your driveway has begun to shows signs of softening in the heat, there are several steps you should take to address the issue.

According to Eamonn Turley, a considered approach is best, rather than rushing in trying to put the problem right. 'When a driveway has softened or become 'sticky', I wouldn't recommend fixing it right away. It's better for traffic to be kept low until the weather cools.

'Since damaged tarmac becomes weaker when heated, driving or turning wheels on already-damaged tarmac can easily cause additional problems,' continues Eamonn. 'When temperatures decrease, an expert can be brought in to evaluate what needs to be done to fix the area. In some cases driveway resurfacing might be required, while in others, the sub-base might need to be repaired or rebuilt.'

Finally, Eamonn has some words of reassurance for worried owners of tarmac driveways. 'Temporary softening due to a heat spell doesn't mean total failure. That said, if cars continue to park or manoeuvre on the soft spots, those areas may begin to develop rutting and scuffing, which will likely stay when temperatures return to normal.'

FAQs

Do resin driveways melt in high temperatures?

There are not many disadvantages of resin driveways – they offer great stability, come in a huge range of design options and, in the case of resin bound driveways, which are permeable, won't require planning permission. But how do they respond under extreme heat?

The good news here is that, provided you have specified a UV-stable resin system, melting should not be an issue. That said, experts agree that in very hot weather, the surface may become a touch more pliable, meaning minor scuffing could occur when tyres are turned on it.

It is worth looking at all the options before deciding on a driveway material. Check out the pros and cons of gravel driveways as part of your research – they are an excellent, affordable choice that also happen to look beautiful.

With the UK experiencing it's third heatwave of the year before the middle of July, it's no wonder that households are desperate for ways to keep cool.

As a result of the high temperatures, there has been unprecedented demand for portable air conditioners and fans, selling them out left, right and centre. But it's not just portable appliances that are seeing record levels of demand. Fitted air conditioning has also see a huge boost, according to Angus Struthers, Managing Director at BOXT: 'From 1st of May to 30th June, BOXT saw AC sales rise by 249% YoY, with increases in all regions of the UK. This was true as far north as Scotland, which saw a 233% growth YoY, and down in Brighton on the south coast, there was a whopping 1,700% YoY increase in enquiries.'

The Guardian has also reported that the number of air conditioned homes has doubled to four million over the last three years.

And so for those who have invested in a fitted system, headlines about air conditioning being ripped from homes under energy efficiency rules will undoubtedly be worrisome. So is air conditioning really being banned? I asked the experts for the truth behind the rumour.

Is air conditioning going to be banned in the UK?

No air conditioning isn't going to be banned in the UK. In fact, in response to headlines to the contrary, the Ministry of Housing, Communities & Local Government has stated: 'There has been media coverage this week suggesting that air conditioning is banned in homes. This is incorrect.

'Air conditioning can be installed in both existing and new homes.

'In most cases, planning permission is not required to install it for a small home if it would not materially affect the appearance of the building from outside.

'However, there is no blanket rule. People should speak with their local council to check the rules, and councils should take a common-sense approach.'

Where do rumours of an air conditioning ban come from?

As reported by The Telegraph, some homeowners in London have been ordered by their local authority to remove the air conditioning from their homes, in favour of more passive cooling solutions like keeping windows and curtains closed at the hottest part of the day, and opening them when it's cooler to get some cross ventilation going.

In many cases, enforced removal like this will be down to the installations falling foul of planning and building regulation rules, which will not be the same for every area of the UK. Air conditioning rules may also be stricter in highly populated urban areas, like London, as Michael Whittall, Sustainability Manager at Fairview New Homes, explains: 'Air conditioning may make individual homes cooler, but we also have to recognise the wider impact it can have on our cities and communities. Air conditioning systems work by removing heat from inside buildings and releasing it outdoors. When this happens at scale, particularly in dense urban areas, it can contribute to the urban heat island effect - adding to higher outdoor temperatures and increasing heat stress in cities.'

There are also concerns about what a widespread uptake of air conditioning may mean for the National Grid, with researchers from Loughborough University telling the BBC that it won't be able to cope with the additional demand. According to Kian Milroy, Renewables Electrical Engineer at Heatable: 'There is a legitimate concern about millions of inefficient air conditioning units being switched on simultaneously during a heatwave. Modelling by researchers at Loughborough University found that, under its highest domestic uptake scenario, air conditioning could add around 7GW to Britain’s evening peak electricity demand by 2050.'

But Martyn Bridges, Director of External Affairs at Worcester Bosch, argues that this wouldn't be grounds for a ban: 'It is highly unlikely that grid capacity concerns will lead to a ban on domestic air conditioning. Much of the UK’s electricity grid is already being upgraded anyway to accommodate the wider electrification of transport with EVs and heating with heat pumps.

'Furthermore, a typical domestic air-to-air heat pump uses around 1.2 kW/hr of electricity—which is less than a standard washing machine or dishwasher. Given this relatively low consumption and the ongoing infrastructure upgrades, there simply isn't a strong case for a ban.'

Kian also disagrees that a ban is the answer, saying: 'A more credible future is tighter standards rather than a ban. This could include minimum energy-efficiency requirements, restrictions on the least efficient portable units, better installer regulation and incentives for modern systems that provide both heating and cooling.

'Smart tariffs and demand-response technology could also help spread electricity use more intelligently, encouraging households to pre-cool their homes when renewable electricity is abundant rather than adding demand during the evening peak.'

Do you need planning permission to install air conditioning?

Whether or not you need planning permission for fitted air conditioning will depend on where you live, the property you live in, and the type of air conditioning you plan on installing.

In many cases, installing an air-to-air heat pump (which is what fitted air con units are), can be done under Permitted Development as long as it can be used for both heating and cooling, and is fitted and used in a way that doesn't negatively impact your neighbours in terms of things like noise and proximity to their property. It's always best to double check with your local planning authority before you commit to save yourself any hassle. If you don't check and your installation falls foul of the rules, then you may face enforcement action to remove it at your own expense.

Rules will be different if you live in a conservation area, Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty or national park. In these areas, permitted development rights may be restricted or removed altogether, meaning you'll need to apply for planning permission. Similarly, if you live in a listed building, you will need Listed Building Consent to make changes.

Portable air conditioning units will be exempt from planning and building regulation rules, but if they are too noisy or cause issues for your neighbours, the council may intervene if they receive a complaint.

Should homeowners do anything differently?

The best thing you can do if you are planning on installing air conditioning at home, is to check with your local authority that it would be breaching any rules. That way you can rest assured that your investment won't be short lived.

Choosing a reputable installer is also important and they should also be well-versed in the installation requirements under the planning rules.

If you already have air conditioning installed and it turns out you should have sought planning permission, then you could try applying for retrospective planning permission, although there is no guarantee that this will be granted.

If it looks like a fitted system won't be feasible for your home, you could invest in a portable air conditioner when stock is replenished. Until that time, you could also try the tricks to supercharge your fan's cooling power, and opening all your windows when it's cooler outside to help freshen up and cool down your home.

The warmer weather is with us once more, meaning you may well be spending more time outside. While being able to enjoy the exterior spaces around your home feels like a treat after the gloomy weather that seems to have dominated just lately, it can also mean you become more aware of those areas that require a little TLC.

One of the first things people often notice once the gloom clears is that their once-perfect driveway ideas are not looking so hot. Driveways have to deal with all kinds of things – not least the fact that they must withstand the weight of vehicles and deal with all kinds of weather conditions, including heatwaves. For this reason, they do require a level of maintenance in order to ensure peak performance, as well as boosting the kerb appeal of a house.

While winter brings all kinds of challenges for driveways, so too does summer. And with another heatwave looming, I asked the experts for the signs of damage to be on the lookout for, what they mean and how to put them right.

What are the main signs of driveway damage in summer?

Once the warmer weather hits, there are several summer home maintenance jobs that it can feel less daunting to tackle.

As you check your house for how it has fared over the winter, your driveway should be one area you pay particular attention to.

Daniel Wickham, owner of First Impression Driveways, explains the main signs of damage to be on the lookout for. 'The main signs that show driveway damage during summer include soft or scuffed tarmac, cracks, loose blocks, sink holes – along with sunken areas – and weeds growing through joints or to the edges.'

1. Tarmac starting to soften

With temperatures seemingly set to get ever hotter here in the UK, tarmac softening is becoming a more common problem.

Sue Taylor, director and product expert at Complete Construction Products, explains what to be alert to if you have a tarmac driveway. 'Surface softening can definitely be a problem for tarmac driveways. This normally happens when the bitumen binder that holds tarmac reacts to higher temperatures. When this happens the surface becomes more flexible, which can make the driveway feel slightly tacky underfoot and even cause cars to leave tyre marks and indentations when parked.

'Surface softening is usually linked to higher temperatures and, on older driveways, this tends to be more noticeable because the material has already started to age and lose some of its original strength,' continues Sue. 'You can’t really reverse softening, but applying a suitable surface sealant can help protect against further weathering and reduce how quickly the surface deteriorates.'

2. Cracks that have widened

Depending on the driveway materials you have, the odd crack in the surface is to be expected over time, but in certain instances, they can indicate that action is required.

'Cracks usually develop due to general wear and tear that comes from a mix of ageing, UV exposure, water ingress or movement beneath the driveway,' explains Sue. 'The key with tackling cracks is timing.'

'For really small hairline cracks a surface sealant can sometimes be enough if the damage is still early. For more severe ones (5–10mm and bigger), it is definitely worth using a suitable tarmac crack filler or bitumen-based repair products. Just be sure to clear out any debris or water, fill it fully and smooth it level with the surface for the best results.'

While cracks may well be harmless, Freya Chapman, residential lead at Mainmark UK, is keen to explain that they can point to something more serious. 'Cracks that appear suddenly and widen over time may indicate that the ground beneath the surface is shifting. Subsidence is one issue that often gets overlooked and could become a major and costly issue if not addressed. If subsidence is suspected, a professional assessment is essential.'

3. Patches that appear to have sunk

This is potentially a more serious issue – dips in the surface, or areas that appear to have sunk. In some cases, this can be down to making driveway mistakes during installation.

'You might notice dips or patterned grooves in spots where vehicles are regularly parked. This is known as 'rutting' and is usually a sign that the surface is struggling to cope with repeated weight and pressure,' explains Sue Taylor. 'This is often seen in older driveways during summer months as heat and age start to affect the performance of the binding materials and it tends to happen when the weight of a vehicle starts to place stress in a particular spot where the surface is already slightly softened or weakened. You commonly see it where cars are regularly parked or turned in the same position. Heat can make this more likely in summer because the surface can become a bit more pliable but it’s usually a combination of temperature, construction quality and just use over time.'

Sue goes on to explain how to rectify the issue. 'Minor rutting can sometimes be improved with localised patching or driveway resurfacing, but more severe cases will often need deeper repair or full resurfacing to properly restore the surface. However, if you're seeing widespread cracking in multiple spots, rutting, deep sinking areas or large sections breaking apart it's always important to ask for professional advice. In those situations the issue is likely to be a lot deeper which means that just repairing the visible damage will be unlikely to solve the underlying problem. If the problem is spreading or affecting the actual structure of the driveway then working with a professional team will always give you the best results.'

4. Loose materials on the surface

Whether you have a tarmac, block paved or even resin driveway, if you notice loose materials around the edge or on the surface, this is a sign to take action.

'If bits of aggregate are starting to chip off the surface it's often a sign that the binding materials that keep everything together are starting to break down and lose strength,' explains Sue Taylor.

'If noticed early then patch repairs or surface treatments can help slow the process,' continues Sue. 'However, if the breakdown is very noticeable and widespread then resurfacing or overlay work would likely be needed to properly restore things and stop more material being lost.'

FAQs

What are the signs of driveway subsidence?

Being aware of the signs of subsidence is so important, both when it comes to inspecting your house, as well as your exterior spaces.

'Driveways are often one of the first areas where homeowners may notice the early signs of ground movement or subsidence,' picks up Freya Chapman.

Along with cracks, Freya says there are some other signs to be on the lookout for. 'Other warning signs include sections of the driveway sinking, uneven paving, pooling water or gaps forming between the driveway and the house, garage, or property boundary.

'The first step is to monitor the issue. Take photos, measure cracks, and note whether they are changing over time,' continues Freya. 'It is also important to check for possible causes, such as leaking drains, poor drainage, tree roots, or water running towards the property rather than away from it. Water is one of the most common contributors to ground instability, particularly where soils are prone to shrinkage or erosion. If subsidence is suspected, a professional assessment is essential.'

Can you repair a driveway on a DIY basis?

By undertaking driveway repairs on a DIY basis, you could save some money, but is it such a good idea?

'Some basic work, such as weed removal or re-sanding of the joints with block paving, may be undertaken yourself, however anything more involved such as sinking, widespread cracking, softness and instability should been reviewed by a qualified professional,' says Daniel Wickham.

'I would say it definitely depends on the specific problem and the level of severity,' adds Susan Taylor. 'Some issues can definitely be addressed on a DIY basis, for example small cracks, localised damage and patch repairs can usually be tackled with the right products and a bit of preparation.'

If you are considering converting your own garage, before getting too excited, it is important that you check it is big enough to make the whole project worthwhile – garages that came with older houses were often pretty compact and, in some cases, this could lead to difficulties.

For anyone who wants to add space to their home in a cost-effective way that doesn't involve the disruption of building a full-blown extension, a garage conversion is ideal. Not only does this type of project make fantastic use of what is often wasted space, it also adds value and usually won't require planning permission either.

That said, converting a garage isn't always straightforward. There are strict building regulations to adhere to and, if you plan on building above the garage to really maximise the new space, the foundations will need to be assessed.

If you are unsure whether you have enough space within your garage to make a conversion viable, this is everything you need to know before deciding to go ahead, as well as advice on how to really make the most of your new addition.

How big does a garage need to be for a conversion?

If you are dealing with a pretty modest, single garage – as opposed to a sprawling double design – you may well be questioning how worthwhile the cost of a garage conversion will be – but how small is too small?

'There is no strict minimum size for a garage conversion but, practically speaking, anything under between 12–14m² becomes difficult to make habitable while meeting building regulations standards once you account for insulation, final wall finishes, and adequate circulation space,' explains Zaeem Chaudhary, director of AC Design Solution. 'That said, even a small single garage can add real value if used as a home office, utility room, or home gym – uses that don't require the same floor area thresholds as a bedroom or living room would.'

'If your garage is at least 15m² then you will be able to convert it into a usable space, although there is no legal requirement when it comes to minimum sizes,' picks up Angelo Patrizi, founder and lead fitter at Nuova Home Improvements. 'The average size of a single garage in the UK is between 16-18m² – the perfect size for converting. We would always complete a layout survey and plan before allowing our clients to commit to converting a small garage footprint.'

How do you maximise space in a small garage conversion?

Providing your garage will give you enough space to meet the required building regulations, what you use it for is largely up to you – but finding ways to maximise the space you have available should still be a priority if you want to ensure you are getting the most out of the money you are spending as well as adding value to your home.

Zaeem Chaudhary has a great idea for using the vertical space within a petite conversion. 'For small garages, the key is maximising ceiling height. Incorporating some mezzanine ideas can effectively double your usable floor area within the same footprint (you'll need a ceiling height of at least 4m for this to work.) However, you will need to check that the structural frame and floor loading have been designed accordingly – something your chosen designer should assess (we do this on every conversion project we carry out.)'

Angelo Patrizi has some more thoughts when it comes to getting the most out of an attached garage conversion. 'The most effective way to create an impact when converting a garage is to create an open-plan living space by removing the wall separating the garage and the adjacent room, as this opens up all kinds of possibilities.'

Can you convert just part of a garage?

Where you have enough space to play with, it can be a good idea to convert just part of your garage to expand your home while retaining a portion for storage. One of the biggest garage conversion mistakes people make is to neglect to think through where they will store all the stuff that they once housed in this space.

'Converting just part of a garage is entirely viable and often makes sense where the homeowner wants to retain storage or parking,' explains Zaeem Chaudhary. 'A part-conversion also tends to be simpler from a planning perspective, as the external appearance changes less if you retain the garage doors rather than swap them for windows.'

This idea tends to be perfect where the garage conversion will be used for a utility or boot room, both spaces that benefit from having a door to outside.

Is it a good idea to add another storey to a small garage conversion?

Adding a storey on top of a garage conversion is the perfect way to extend without encroaching on garden space – ideal for anyone wanting to add a bedroom. It is actually very cost effective too when compared to extension costs.

That said, it will be more expensive than a simple single storey garage conversion, as Zaeem Chaudhary explains. 'In terms of cost, a two-storey extension above a garage is typically 40–60% more expensive than a single-storey equivalent, due to the additional structural requirements, staircase, and increased external envelope.

'However, the cost per square metre is often better value overall given the shared foundations and roof,' points out Zaeem.

FAQs

What are the best ways to use a small garage conversion?

There are lots of great ways to use a garage conversion – but in the case of smaller structures, in order to make a garage conversion worth it, do think through how the final space will work on a day-to-day basis, as well as how future buyers might view it.

'Compact garage conversions can be used for home offices, utility rooms or children’s playrooms,' suggests Angelo Patrizi. 'Many people think about converting a small garage into a separate dining room, but if you are considering this try to design the space so that it will still be useful to potential purchasers who might have no need for this kind of room – aim for a more multi-purpose space.'

When is a garage conversion a bad idea?

In some cases, garage conversions just don't make sense and it really does pay to consider this if you want to ensure you are not wasting money on something that won't truly add to your experience of living in your home – or appeal to potential buyers later down the line.

'Generally, you should not convert your garage into habitable space if you have no off-road parking and live in an area when on-road parking is already difficult – it could actually decrease the resale value of your house,' warns Angelo Patrizi.

'Additionally, if the garage structure requires a considerable amount of damp-proofing, extensive repairs or the ceiling height is less than 2.1m then the build costs will quickly escalate and your return on investment will become more unpredictable.'

While planning permission for garage conversions is not usually needed, there will be cases where you will need to make an application. If you live in a conservation area, in a listed building, have already used up your permitted development rights or are building a two-storey garage conversion, you may well need to get in touch with your local planning office before work begins.

With things once again hotting up in the UK, and temperatures on the rise in general, more and more people are starting to invest in air conditioning units for their homes, both portable and wall-mounted systems.

If you are considering fitting air con in a bid to keep your home cooler, you are probably mulling over a range of factors, from running and installation costs to whether fitting air conditioning is worth it in the UK, when, let's face it, for most of the time we are a nation that complains about the rain and the cold more than we do the heat.

It is worth bearing in mind that you don't have to fit air conditioning throughout your home to feel its benefits. For example, in my own home, it is the bedrooms that tend to overheat in summer. With this in mind, I asked the experts which rooms benefit the most from air conditioning – and where might it just be a waste of money.

Which rooms benefit the most from air conditioning?

If you love the idea of being able to cool down a room fast, but are worried about the cost of installing air conditioning, it really does pay to do your research in terms of which spaces are likely to benefit the most.

It is important to bear in mind that the type of house you live in and your individual needs will play a part here – there is not necessarily a one-size-fits-all solution, as air conditioning expert Tom Houlker, director of Houlkair, explains. 'Look for the room that causes the most discomfort, not the biggest. If there’s one bedroom you avoid in summer, or a home office where you’re constantly opening windows and still feel uncomfortable, that’s the place to start. It comes down to how the room is used, how often it overheats or gets cold, and whether the unit can realistically control that space. Installers will look at your room size, insulation, window position, sun exposure and how the air will move around.'

All the experts I spoke to agreed that there tended to be three common areas to focus on if you want to feel the benefits of air conditioning the most:

1. Bedrooms (particularly those that face south)

Cooling bedrooms down tends to be one of the biggest struggles homeowners face during a heatwave. Not only do they usually lie on the upper storeys of a house, which tend to get hotter than ground floor spaces, but they are also the one spot that really needs to feel comfortable in order to allow a good night's sleep.

'Without a doubt the master bedrooms and south-facing upstairs rooms benefit from air con the most,' picks up Kevin Pennington of Lancashire Air Conditioning. 'Because of changes to the building regulations leading to better insulation over the past 20 years or so, modern houses hold onto heat incredibly well. Some new build houses that we come across have a master bedroom facing into the sun meaning that they get direct sunlight through double glazed windows for up to 12 to 15 hours a day. That leads to those bedrooms, even in the north of England, reaching over 40°C in relatively cool but sunny weather. In very hot weather they can become completely uninhabitable.'

'Heatwaves can often lead to sleepless nights in summer so the master bedroom is the perfect place for an air conditioner,' agrees Sam Carter, HVAC expert at Appliances Direct, who goes on to explain that units which can also heat a space make a lot of sense in this room. 'Our homes are built to retain heat, which leads to restless, humid summer nights. A bedroom heat pump unit ensures optimal sleep hygiene in July, while offering a highly efficient, fast way to warm the room up in January without turning on the whole central heating system.'

2. Home offices

If you work from home, the last thing you need during a heatwave is to be sitting at your desk sweltering away.

'Along with the bedroom, a home office can be where you spend the most time in one spot and where temperature affects how you feel and function,' points out Tom Houlker. 'A home office that gets too warm or too cold quickly becomes uncomfortable to work in.'

Again, the location of your home office within your house needs to be considered carefully – if it tends to stay relatively cool no matter what the weather, a fixed air con unit will be a waste of money and it will be well worth looking at some of the best portable air conditioners as an alternative, as Tom explains. 'If the room has poor airflow, doors constantly open, or no real heat problem, you can end up paying for a system that never really earns its keep.'

3. Conservatories and garden rooms

Conservatories, heavily-glazed extensions and even garden rooms placed in a sunny spot are all prime candidates for overheating. If you were wondering whether air con is a good idea in a conservatory, rest assured, it is.

'A conservatory is effectively a greenhouse so they get incredibly hot,' says Kevin Pennington. 'Because modern air-conditioning units are actually heat pumps they can not only cool the room in summer but also provide really cheap heating in the winter. Putting a unit in a conservatory makes it a room you can use all year round instead of being an oven in summer and a freezer in winter.'

Tom Houlker is also keen to extoll the benefits of a fitting a unit that heats as well as cools. 'If the unit can heat as well, garden rooms, loft conversions and extensions can also be good candidates because they often sit outside the main heating pattern of the house.'

Which rooms is air conditioning a waste in?

Unless you are building from scratch and considering a whole house heating and cooling system, it tends to be more economical to pick and choose which rooms to install air conditioning in. Having spoken to the experts, it is clear that fixed units are a waste of time in certain spots around the house. So where is the worst place to put air conditioning?

'Air con is usually wasted in rooms people barely use or that already stay comfortable most of the year,' says Tom Houlker. 'I’d also be cautious with hallways, spare rooms, utility rooms or large open areas where one small unit is expected to do too much.'

'Air con is a complete waste of money in hallways, landings and open stairwells,' agrees Kevin Pennington. 'People often think they can just put one big unit at the top of the stairs and it will cool the whole house. It doesn’t work at all. Cold air sinks, so it just falls down the stairs like water and you end up with a freezing cold hallway while the bedrooms stay boiling hot. You should only ever put air conditioning in the rooms where you actually sleep or sit.

'It is also a waste of money in a kitchen if you have things like an AGA cooker left on all summer, or if you are running dishwashers and tumble dryers during the day because the heat produced by these appliances is just fighting the air conditioning,' continues Kevin.

What air con alternatives are worth considering?

Ultimately, air conditioning is not going to be right for every type of space or household. However, that doesn't mean you have to resign yourself to hanging out in the local supermarket in summer in order to get some respite from the heat – there are some great alternatives out there to consider instead.

That said, before you rush out to spend your money on the best fans around, Kevin Pennington has some words of wisdom. 'If people want to look at non air-con solutions before spending money they need to first stop the house getting too hot in the first place. A big mistake homeowners make is closing curtains made from dark heavy fabrics. These, along with aluminium or dark wood blinds, absorb heat. This causes the room to get significantly hotter than it should be. A great way around this is getting white curtains and fitting them very close to the glass to reflect sun away. Heat reflective film on the windows really helps too.'

When it comes to fans, there are several cooling hacks you can try in order to up their efficiency, plus there are now some really clever new products out there, such as misting fans and portable air coolers that cost far less than air con but can be super effective.

Before spending any money on an air con unit for your home, be sure to research portable vs fitted air conditioning so that you can feel confident you are opting for the right system for you and your home.

Overheating in UK houses is a common issue during the summer and without air conditioning, ceiling fans or other ways to keep our houses cool, when a heatwave strikes many are stuck with no refuge for cooling.

I'm fortunate that my home has a few design features that help keep it cool in summer, but I do try to be mindful about minimising the possibility of overheating wherever I can.

When my partner and I replaced a single back door of my home with extra-wide patio doors leading to our courtyard garden, I was in two minds. The doors face west and receive afternoon and early evening light, which in turn could cause overheating in our open plan signing and kitchen area. But I've made two key decisions that help minimise the risk.

1. I used our existing landscaping shade our patio doors

The old single back door was bookended by two well-maintained and established climber plants; a wisteria and a clematis. Both are absolutely stunning in the spring and autumn when in flower, but from February to November, the area is almost continuously shaded by their foliage.

So, when we knocked through to create our double patio doors with glazing panels, I let them go wild. While we do follow advice on pruning and pinning back, I’m not a stickler for keeping them small, in fact I positively love that they have grown so bushy and free. The resulting shade means by the time the sun hits our patio doors there is only about an hour or so before the next plant takes over shading duties.

Another bonus is that trees have been proven to reduce air temperature so even when the doors are open, cooler air is the closest to our interiors.

Although it is hard to age wisteria, I would estimate it to be at least 20 years old, which is why flowers are in abundance twice a year and it grows at an exponential rate. Similarly the clematis must be older than 15 years, given its thick and woody branches. Sadly, younger wisteria won’t produce the same amount of shading we have established and clematis spend their first few years establishing roots, rather than height, but faster growing climbers could be just the trick if you’re looking to emulate our effect.

2. I bought a sail parasol to catch the late afternoon sun

Despite the planting doing a fantastic job, there is a short period when the does hit the patio doors, so, in an effort to also shelter our courtyard garden from the melty highs of a heatwave, we installed a sail shade.

These designs as an option for garden shade have been growing in popularity for sun traps like ours. We learned the hard way that an umbrella-style parasol just doesn’t do the trick when the sun is high and we found we were continuously moving the shade. The sail parasol provides far better coverage and can be taken down really easily when the risk of heatstoke is less.

Happily for us, the sail shade also shields the patio doors when the sun is moving between the clematis and wisteria.

A more permanent option we might look into in the future is a pergola with climbers growing overhead or with a retractable shade. ‘I'd strongly suggest a wall-mounted or freestanding pergola with an adjustable louvred roof offers both shade and sun. You can also add a screen to the side(s) of the pergola to further combat low sun,’ explains Rob Mead, buying director at White Stores.

Alternatively, bringing out the flat roof when we come to replace it would also be a good investment in adapting our home to long-term climate changes.

‘External overhangs above large windows, heat pumps with a reverse cooling mode, tiled or stone floors for thermal mass, and deciduous planting to the south and west — shade in summer, sun in winter. These are all relatively simple interventions that make a real difference,’ adds Zaeem Chaudhary, director at AC Design Solution.

Why is overheating in UK homes a problem?

Unfortunately, UK housing stock in the last 50 years has predominantly featured small rooms with minimal ventilation or air circulation consideration and small windows, usually just on one wall. This means that, due to our focus on heat-retention in the winter, any heat that is let in during the day in summer, especially during a heatwave, keeps radiating from our walls.

‘British homes aren't bad at managing heat; they are just built exclusively for winters,’ explains Ali Mujtuba from The Historical Insights. ‘For generations, the goal has been maximum thermal retention. We use heavy brickwork, thick insulation layers, and tight envelopes to prevent heat from escaping. The problem is that during a summer spike, this architecture acts as a massive thermal battery. It absorbs solar radiation all day, holds it, and then slowly radiates that heat inward long after sunset.’

Therefore, the aim of the game in UK summers is to minimise the amount of heat able to penetrate your home, by keeping windows and curtains closed during the day and only opening them up at night.

However, as a nation in love with renovation and extensions, we have begun to include large-scale glazing within our home, which might be fine for 99% of the year, but could contribute to overheating during a heatwave.

‘Unlike southern European homes, UK homes rarely feature air-conditioning units or external shutters designed to block UV radiation before it hits the glass, which is why many homes often feel warmer than outdoors after a long sunny day,’ says Chloe Burrow from Laura James Homes.

‘In the UK, we often see massive windows facing the sun to let in light, but this creates a greenhouse effect. Short-wave solar radiation passes through the glass, hits the interior surfaces, and converts into long-wave infrared heat that gets trapped inside,’ concludes Ali Mujtuba.

Once you've made efforts to minimise how much sun is coming through your windows and doors, if you're still uncomfortably hot, you'll need to have one of the best fans or portable air conditioners, or it might even be time to consider fitted air conditioning.

Maybe it is because the last few summers have treated us so well here in the UK, but since the arrival of warmer weather, I have seriously been considering investing in air conditioning for several of the rooms around our house. In all honesty, it is the bedrooms that would benefit the most – thanks to a lack of insulation in the roof and loft, as well as the fact that two of them are south-facing, they can transform into stuffy little saunas at certain times of the year.

In the past, I have questioned whether air conditioning is worth it in the UK and been put off taking the plunge, partly because of costs, but mainly because, in my view, most systems seem to require the presence of some form of bulky white box, either stuck slap bang in the middle of the room in the case of portable units, or mounted on the wall, looming down and lending the whole space a distinctly office-like feel.

But does it always have to be this way? Is there, I wondered, a more attractive way to incorporate air conditioning that would offer me a cooler, better, night's sleep without spoiling the decor scheme? I reached out to some experts – and was pleasantly surprised by what they told me.

Does air conditioning have to look ugly?

While I wholeheartedly agree that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, there can't be many people who long to include a great big plastic white box stuck to the wall as part of their otherwise carefully curated interior scheme.

Martyn Fowler, founder of Elite Renewables, explains where most people go wrong. 'Air conditioning can absolutely look good, but it has to be thought about properly. The problem is that a lot of systems are fitted as an afterthought. Someone chooses the unit, finds a spare bit of wall and then runs pipework wherever it is easiest. That is when it starts to look messy.'

Kevin Pennington, owner and MD of Lancashire Air Conditioning, has some more insight on why air con can be an eyesore. 'Air conditioning absolutely does not need to be ugly. It has a bad reputation here in the UK because we do not have a fully developed air-conditioning market. Many people tend to just rush out and buy the first unit they see, not necessarily thinking about the design – just how to be able to sleep tonight during the latest heatwave.'

Can fitted air conditioning look stylish?

I have been weighing up portable vs fitted air conditioning and I still can't shake the notion that all wall-mounted air conditioning units look like cumbersome off-white boxes – fine in an office setting, but not in my living room.

However, Martyn Fowler has some words of reassurance. 'Modern indoor units are much neater than they used to be. You can choose slimline systems with stylish finishes, and concealed systems that are almost invisible apart from the grille. If it is planned into the room from the start, it does not have to ruin the look at all.'

'There are much better-looking options now than the big white office-style boxes people usually picture,' agrees Tom Houlker, director of Houlkair. 'Slim wall-mounted units are the most common choice and many now have cleaner, flatter fronts, softer edges, and quieter designs that suit bedrooms and living rooms better. Floor-mounted units can also look neater in some homes because they sit low, more like a slim radiator, rather than dominating the wall at eye level.'

'I have fitted around 1,100 units and I’d estimate that around 950 of these have been standard white units – even the very best ones are still ultimately white boxes,' says Kevin Pennington. 'However if you are willing to spend a little more money the options really open up.

'Consider a dark-coloured or black unit, such as the LG Artcool Mirror which has smoked black glass on the front,' suggests Kevin. 'The Toshiba Haori is another great option with an interchangeable fabric cover. You can even get an LG unit that looks like a photo frame.'

Similarly, Daikin has launched it's Stylish range, which includes eight different finishes for the indoor unit, including leather-look, fabric and wood effect options that can suit most homes.

How can you make wall-mounted air con look more attractive?

If, like me, you don't necessarily want to add to your air conditioning costs by opening up the walls and ceilings for a concealed system, according to the experts there are still ways to make wall-mounted units blend into your interior scheme.

'Air conditioning looks ugly when it is too big, in the wrong place, or badly installed,' points out Martyn Fowler. 'If you put a large white unit in the middle of a feature wall, it becomes the first thing you see. I always try to position units where they make sense for airflow but do not dominate the room.

'Think about sight lines too,' continues Martyn. 'Where do you see it from when you walk into the room? Is it above a doorway, on a side wall, or directly opposite the sofa? And, get the sizing right. An oversized unit is more noticeable and it might perform badly because it cools the space too quickly and then shuts off. A properly-sized system is quieter, neater and more comfortable.'

Tom Houlker has some more tips on the worst places for air conditioning and how to make air con less obvious. 'Don’t try too hard to hide it. A badly boxed-in unit can end up looking awkward, and it can also struggle to cool properly, collect dust, and be a nightmare to service.

'A clean install usually looks better than a cover-up, so choose the position carefully and keep the pipework tidy,' continues Tom. 'One trick that helps is placing the unit in line with something already in the room, like the top of a door frame, wardrobe, or shelving, so it feels intentional rather than randomly stuck on the wall. If it can sit slightly off the focal wall, away from artwork, TVs, or feature lighting, people notice the room first and the unit second.'

What is the best way to hide air conditioning?

Still not convinced? In that case, it might be best to consider a concealed air conditioning system.

'For the cleanest finish, ducted air conditioning is usually the best-looking option because you only see the grilles, but it needs a ceiling void, loft space, or a bulkhead to hide the ductwork,' explains Tom Houlker. 'The main thing is to choose the unit style around the room, not just the cooling requirement. A small bedroom, open-plan kitchen or period living room may all need different approaches if you want the system to look like it belongs there.'

'If it is a main living area you are dealing with, I'd look at a concealed ducted unit,' says Martyn Fowler. 'In some homes, pipework can be routed through cupboards and loft spaces so you see much less of it. External trunking is needed but it can be colour matched or positioned along existing lines of the building so it blends in better.'

Can portable air conditioners look stylish?

I was recently lucky enough to test out a brilliant portable air conditioner – the VonHaus' 9000BTU portable air conditioning unit – and, while it was really effective in cooling down a bedroom, the fact remains that it was a big white box that required me to sling the hose out of the window, where it sat, dangling in the wind. I am keen to know, is there a way to make these portable units look more attractive?

'Portable units are harder to make attractive than fixed,' picks up Martyn Fowler. 'They are mostly bulky and you have the exhaust hose going out of a window.'

Chris Michael, co-founder and chief product officer at Meaco, agrees that portable units can be hard to blend in. 'There is a limit to what can be done to improve the appearance of a portable air conditioner, but Meaco has looked closely at how to make them easier to live with through its new Meaco Cirro range (above). We realise that a large plastic box is not what consumers want in their homes, especially their bedrooms. The actual size there is not a huge amount you can do about, but what we have done is to use good design to make it look softer and the two tone approach helps to create the illusion that it is smaller than it actually is.

'There is, however, a practical limitation with any portable air conditioner,' continues Chris. 'To cool a room effectively, it needs to expel hot exhaust air outside, so it must be connected to a window kit when in cooling mode. I'd advise placing the unit where it has enough space around it to draw in and treat the room air properly, while using the window kit and exhaust duct as neatly as possible.'

Kevin Pennington agrees that even making the best portable air conditioners into an attractive feature is a tough call, although he does have one solution. 'If someone has a portable unit and wants to vent it without having to hang it out of the window for all to see, they could consider having a hole drilled though the wall for it and fit an exterior vent. This usually comes in at £200-£300 to do.'

FAQs

Will air conditioning ruin the kerb appeal of my house?

Portable air conditioning units have to be vented to outside (usually through a window), and fixed units also need an exterior unit meaning both will have an effect on the external appearance of your home. How can homeowners navigate this without it ruining kerb appeal?

'Poorly routed trunking on the exterior is one of the biggest things that makes an installation look bad,' picks up Martyn Fowler. 'If the pipes run across brickwork in bright white plastic, they stand out immediately. You want to avoid putting the external unit somewhere too visible if there is a better option. Side returns, rear elevations and tucked-away areas can work well, as long as the unit still has proper airflow and access for servicing.

'This is where planning matters,' continues Martyn. 'With a fixed split system, you don't want to leave pipe runs until the installer arrives. You should think about where the indoor unit sits, where the outdoor unit can go, and how the pipework will travel between them.'

If you have decided that a portable unit is the best option for your needs, make sure you know how to choose the right portable air conditioner before shopping around – that way you can be sure your investment will be worthwhile.

For much of the year my old house is a chilly place to spend time in, with the ground floor in particular somehow refusing to hold on to heat no matter what the temperatures outside – in fact, I have been known to step out into the garden to warm up a little when working from home.

However, once summer hits, the first floor bedrooms transform into stuffy sauna-like spaces that can, at times, become almost unbearably hot, making getting a good night's sleep nigh on impossible. Despite trying all kinds of ways of keeping a bedroom cool, nothing seems to work.

With more warm weather just around the corner (hopefully), I reached out to the experts for some help in the hope of staying cool in bed – and I was surprised to learn that many of my daily habits, some of which I thought would help keep my house fresh and cool, were actually making things far worse. If, like me, you struggle to keep your house feeling breezy in the heat, here's what they had to say.

1. Opening up windows in warm weather

I don't know about you, but when temperatures rise inside my house, the first thing I do is fling open the windows, after all we have all come to realise the benefits of burping a house. However, according to all the experts I spoke to, this could actually be making matters worse.

'Many people open windows as soon as it feels warm. However, if the air outside is hotter than the air inside, you are effectively pumping heat into your home,' explains Rich Millard, senior sustainability consultant at Building Energy Experts, who goes on to explain the concept of night purging. 'At night, open all windows to allow the cooler air through. Come morning, close all windows and keep curtains drawn before using fans to move around air within the home.'

Kevin Pennington, owner and MD of Lancashire Air Conditioning, agrees that opening windows at the wrong times of day is a seriously bad idea. 'You are allowing warm air in and this then causes the house to get hotter than it would if you kept the windows and doors shut. This applies whenever the outside temperature is warmer than the inside.

'Generally, on days above 25°C that are very sunny, I keep my windows open very early in the morning when the air temperature is still cold and then I reopen them late at night when the air temperature is below that inside,' adds Kevin. 'This is a free, natural way to cool a house.'

2. Leaving my appliances on

I'm going to admit that I am terrible when it comes to turning anything off at the sockets – appliances, chargers, lamps, you name it, there they sit on stand-by. Not only do these vampire appliances guzzle energy, but, according the the experts, they could also be making my house hotter.

'We often forget that appliances (ovens, computers and even big-screen TVs) act as radiators,' points out Rich Millard. 'Leaving these on standby or cooking heavy meals during the hottest part of the day significantly raises the baseline temperature.'

'Other appliances that cause excess heat are dishwashers and tumble dryers,' picks up Kevin Pennington. 'In a hot spell, the heat produced by these appliances can take rooms from being hot to being unbearable. And on a hot day it is far better to dry clothes outside than in the tumble dryer anyway – it’s free, better for the environment and, in my opinion, the clothes feel better (fluffy towels excluded).'

3. Not being tactical about closing my curtains

On a hot day, I always mean (but often forget) to nip upstairs in the afternoon to close the curtains in our south-facing bedroom – it makes the world of difference to how cool the room feels come bedtime, keeping it closer to the ideal temperature to sleep in.

'Homeowners often leave curtains and blinds open to enjoy the natural light in south-facing rooms but this creates a greenhouse effect that is very difficult to reverse once the sun goes down,' explains Rich Millard. 'Rather than just closing thin indoor curtains though, use heavy, light-coloured curtains or, ideally, external shutters or awnings too.'

I hadn't actually realised the effect using the right types of bedroom curtains could help here.

'Heavy materials in dark fabrics, and aluminium or dark wood blinds, absorb heat,' explains Kevin Pennington. 'This causes the room to get significantly hotter than it should be. A great way around this is getting white or light-coloured curtains and fitting them as close to the glass as you can to reflect the light away. Heat reflective film on the windows and their reveals really helps too.'

Shop thermal window treatments

4. Not addressing my lack of adequate loft insulation

While this one is going to take a bit more effort to put right than some of the others, I am horribly aware that one of the main reasons my house gets too hot upstairs is because of the lack of proper loft insulation.

'There is a common myth that insulation is only for keeping heat in during winter. In reality, poor or patchy insulation allows external heat to seep through the roof and walls more quickly in the summer,' explains Rich Millard.

'An uninsulated loft with dark tiles or slates is effectively a large heater,' picks up Kevin Pennington. 'The tiles or slates get red hot during the day leading to an air temperature in the loft of up to 50°C in some circumstances. If there is no insulation between the loft and the house then the heat in the ceiling above the rooms can becoming incredibly warm.'

5. Using my air conditioning all wrong

Whenever a heatwave hits, you can pretty much guarantee that there will be a rush on portable air conditioners, and for good reason. I recently got my hands on this Vonhaus' portable air conditioner and it really does make a difference so quickly, but, only now am I realising that I could be using it so much more effectively.

'The mistake I see all the time is people trying to cool the room they’re in, while leaving warm air to drift in from the rest of the house,' explains Tom Houlker, air conditioning installation and service expert and the director of Houlk Air. 'Cool air escapes quickly through open internal doors, stairwells and unused rooms, so the AC ends up chasing heat rather than controlling the space.'

So how should I use it? 'Treat it like zoning, shut off the areas you’re not using, keep airflow clear around the unit, and let it cool one space properly instead of asking it to fight the whole house,' advises Tom.

FAQs

Can using a fan cool down a room?

The best fans can definitely provide some relief during hot spells, but it is important to realise their limitations, as well as the most common fan mistakes, if you want to get the most out of your particular unit.

'Don't just point a fan at yourself. Use fans to move air within the home to prevent hot spots, or place a fan near a window at night to help pull the cooler outside air in more efficiently,' advises Rich Millard.

Some people swear by placing a bowl of ice behind the fan in order to cool the air being blown out – I actually tried this and found it surprisingly effective.

While fans can provide a very welcome breeze in warmer weather, it is important that you understand where not to put a fan if you want to feel maximum benefits.

With reports rife that the UK could experience the hottest summer on record, it's no wonder that more and more people are looking for solutions to stay comfortable when the temperatures rise.

I've already seen the best portable air conditioners selling out during the first heatwave of the year when we experienced 30°C weather at the end of May. And if previous years are anything to go by, these appliances will sell out again come summer.

Whenever a heatwave hits, I also see spikes in people looking into fitted air conditioning, despite rumours of an air conditioning ban. But is it really worth it? Well I've had fitted air conditioning in my living room for about a year, and this is my honest take on how much I've really used it in that time.

How much have I used my fitted air conditioning?

My house is south-east facing and so it gets a lot of sun, which means it gets very hot during the summer. I also tend to run hot so I use the air con very regularly over the warmer months. I'd say if outdoor temperatures are over 20°C, I will have the air con on at some point over the course of the day. Between May and September, that's likely a daily occurrence.

How long I have it on for will vary depending on the level of sunlight streaming in, what the actual temperature is, and what I'm doing. It could be anything from a quick 10-minute blast a couple of times a day, or in the case of a heatwave, it could be on for hours at a time.

If I know I am going to have it on for a long time, I tend to choose the night mode, which is the quietest and gentlest cooling breeze that keeps me comfortably and consistently cool without making it chilly.

However, when temperatures drop and autumn and winter set in, I will admit I very rarely use the air con. If I get cold in between the times when my heating comes on, then I have occasionally used it in heat mode to take the edge off, but my house tends to hold on to heat quite well so I've not needed to do this more than a handful of times. It does give me a bit of reassurance, though. I once had a very miserable week or so in February when my boiler packed up, and I had to wait for the plumber to come and install a new one. Had I had the air con at that point, I would have at least had one room that I could warm up and make cosy.

Has fitted air con been expensive to run?

When the days are hotter, the air con has to work harder to cool the air, and when looking at my smart meter, it's a very similar story to heating my home in an especially cold snap.

So while energy bills are usually a lot lower in the summer because the heating isn't on, that may not be the case when you use fitted air conditioning in a heatwave.

However, as someone who gets anxious about heatwaves, it's a price I'm prepared to pay to stay cool.

Do I still think fitted air conditioning is worth it?

I absolutely think fitted air conditioning is worth it. I had mine fitted through BOXT, and I'm so glad I did. I work from home and have a dog so being able to have a room where we can escape excessive heat and still be able to function at work has been very beneficial. It's also meant there is a cool spot in the house to sleep when needed, which helps to reduce my anxiety levels and maintain my body's circadian rhythm in line, keeping me focused during the day.

Before I had fitted air conditioning, I would keep my blackout blinds closed for a large portion of the day. When heatwaves extend for days at a time, this can start to feel a little miserable. But with fitted AC, I can have them open longer and not feel like I'm shut up in a cave.

It's also really quick to cool the space. There's no lugging heavy appliances out of storage, setting up a window kit or venting anything out of the window. You simply press the button on the remote and sit back and wait a few seconds for the room to cool down.

While it was definitely the right choice for my home, however, it's not without it's downsides. Firstly, it's not a feasible option for those who rent, due to the changes needing to install the kit. It's understandably going to add to your energy bills too, and at a time when energy prices are set to rise by 13%, that's not desirable for anybody. Plus, you do have to compromise by having a permanent unit installed both inside and outside. They're not pretty by any means, but for me, being cool is worth the sacrifice.

If you're not quite ready to commit to fitted air con, or its not a feasible option for your home, then a portable air conditioner, like the new Meaco Cirro range (from £519.99 at Meaco) or a misting fan like the Shark FlexBreeze HydroGo (£129.99 at Shark) or the Dreo 765S TurboCool misting fan (£169.99 at Amazon)will help to boost your home's cooling power.

The rumour mill has been buzzing with talk that underfloor heating is going to be banned in the UK. But is there any truth to the gossip?

While not every home has underfloor heating, it is an increasingly popular choice for those looking for even heat and clear walls. While wet underfloor heating tends to only be installed as part of a new build or extension project, electric underfloor heating is much easier to install in an existing home.

But under new Government rules, some electric underfloor heating systems could be removed from sale. This is everything we know so far.

Is underfloor heating going to be banned in the UK?

No, underfloor heating isn't going to be banned in the UK. Rumours of a ban instead stem from Government proposals to ensure that inefficient heating systems are phased out.

Stricter energy efficiency standards that the Government wants to introduce will mean that electric underfloor heating systems that are deemed inefficient will no longer be available to buy. This will only impact new products and not those already installed in homes, with inefficient models phased out by 2027.

As part of it's wider initiatives around energy security and Net Zero targets, the Government is proposing to update the minimum energy performance standard for local space heaters, like electric underfloor heating as well as things like electric radiators and towel rails as well as gas stoves and radiant heaters.

'Homeowners shouldn't be alarmed by headlines suggesting that underfloor heating, heated towel rails or gas fires are set to be banned,' explains John Klee, heating technology expert at BestHeating. 'The proposals currently being discussed relate to the efficiency standards that new heating products must meet before they can be sold in the UK, rather than the systems already installed in people's homes.

'The aim is to encourage the development of more energy-efficient products, often through improved controls such as thermostats and timers, helping households reduce energy consumption and lower running costs over time.'

According to the consultation document on the new rules, electric space heating in domestic properties accounted for 4% of all electricity demand in the UK in 2024. 'It is therefore essential to make sure these local space heaters are as energy efficient as possible,' the Government says.

Under the proposals, Ecodesign regulations for local space heaters in the UK will be updated to be in line with the EU. That means that higher performance requirements must be reached before the products can be sold in the UK.

The proposals also introduce requirements for these products to come with controls and low-power modes to help people use them more efficiently and reduce unnecessary energy wastage.

Furthermore, the proposals introduce 'right to repair' measures, which mean manufacturers will need to supply spare parts, like controls, thermostats and heating elements, for a minimum of 10 years. This is to cut waste and emissions from manufacturing and disposal.

As a result of these measures, almost half (48%) of electric underfloor heating systems currently available will be removed from sale.

What about wet underfloor heating?

Wet underfloor heating isn't going to be banned either, as Matthew Powell, founder of WarmZilla, explains: 'What’s happening is a wider shift in building regulations and net zero policy that affects how heating systems are designed and installed, especially in new builds. Recent proposals and commentary have included tighter efficiency rules and a push away from high carbon heating systems, but underfloor heating itself is not being targeted for removal.

'In fact, underfloor heating is generally considered a compatible low temperature heating method that works well with heat pumps, which are being encouraged as part of the UK’s transition to lower carbon homes. Some confusion comes from discussions around Future Homes Standard rules and efficiency requirements that favour low temperature systems, but this is about improving performance standards, not banning UFH.'

What does this mean for those who want or have electric underfloor heating?

If you are thinking about installing electric underfloor heating at home, then it's worth asking your chosen retailer or installer about the most energy efficient option. Inefficient models will be phased out over the next six months, so you won't be able to buy them.

The new rules will mean that any electric underfloor heating system you buy will be more energy efficient, and therefore, will have a positive effect on your energy bills.

However, it also means that you may have to pay more to buy the electric underfloor heating in the first place. 'The immediate impact will be on the upfront cost for heating appliances, with manufacturer efforts to create more innovative and energy-efficient designs likely to result in increased costs being passed on to consumers, with fewer budget-friendly options remaining on the market,' says Anton Neike, Energy Expert and CEO at Taupia. 'However, the Government argues households will be better off in the long term through lower running costs.

'On the other hand, once more efficient underfloor heating systems with smarter controls become more readily available, running costs may become more predictable for consumers who’ll have more control over how much their system is used.'

If you already have electric underfloor heating, you won't be impacted by the changes until you want to replace your existing system. 'When it comes time to upgrade, homeowners may benefit from newer systems that incorporate enhanced efficiency features and smarter controls,' adds John Klee. 'However, for now, those with existing installations can continue using them as normal, confident that these proposals are focused on future product standards rather than current heating systems.'

There was a time, as far back as the 17th century even, when conservatories were seen as the height of sophistication, a status symbol even, signifying wealth and good taste. Designed to protect plants, gathered from travels afar, they were beloved by nobility and a staple of stately homes.

However, over the years, things changed and, certainly by the 1980s and 1990s, the conservatories being stuck onto the back of houses were nothing like the elegant wrought iron and timber glazed structures that went before. These were often cheaply constructed, made of poor-quality uPVC and with either polycarbonate roofs or glazing that wasn't properly sealed or designed, leading to a slew of issues, such as draughts, leaks, condensation and, of course, overheating. Add to that the fact that little thought was often given to how to add a conservatory that actually suited the houses they were being attached to and you can see how questions started to be asked about how appealing these structures actually are.

All that said, not all conservatories were designed this way – there are some shining examples out there of how, when designed well, they can provide stylish sunny spots from which to enjoy the garden. So, whether you have inherited a dodgy relic and are wondering what to do with it, or are currently considering adding one, I asked the experts to share their thoughts on whether or not the conservatory is still a worthwhile addition.

Are conservatories seen as old fashioned these days?

Clearly conservatories of a certain era have not aged particularly well, but should the concept of this glazed add-on be thrown out altogether? Opinions differ a little here.

'Conservatories are definitely starting to feel outdated. The main issue is that their traditional construction doesn’t really allow for year-round use,' picks up Gabrielle Allen, director of operations at InFrame Garden Rooms. 'With so much glass, they can get unbearably hot in summer and too cold to use in winter and installing air conditioning is often tricky.'

'The word 'conservatory' has quietly fallen from favour – and not without reason,' points out interior designer Lindi Reynolds, founding creative director at Lindi Reynolds & Co. 'For decades, the British home improvement market sold the dream of extra space through a proliferation of plastic-framed, poorly insulated structures bolted onto the backs of houses with little regard for architecture, longevity, or elegance. Convenient, perhaps. Timeless? Far from it. In today's market, a poorly conceived conservatory addition may actually deter a sale rather than enhance one.'

Michael Arrowsmith, manager at Etheridge Windows, agrees somewhat that conservatories can appear a little passé these days, although is keen to point out that this generally only applies to those of a certain age.

'I wouldn’t say conservatories have completely had their day, but the traditional versions people remember from the 1980s and 1990s are definitely less popular now,' says Michael. 'A lot of those older builds struggle with temperature (keeping a conservatory cool in summer and warm in winter) and that’s definitely made people rethink them.'

What are the modern alternatives to conservatories?

It comes as little surprise that these conservatories from 40 or so years ago are now seen as dated, but that isn't to say that the concept isn't still a good one. In fact, it is worth noting that that conservatories these days have come a long way, determined to shake off that creaky, leaky rep they garnered over the years.

'There is such a thing as a modern conservatory now,' points out Michael Arrowsmith. 'It just doesn’t look like the old Victorian-style structures people picture. The newer designs are simpler, often with aluminium frames and better-performing glass, and they’re built to be used all year round rather than as a seasonal space.'

'For those looking at modern alternatives to the conservatory, hybrid glass rooms are leading the way,' picks up Beth Boulton, marketing director at home improvement specialists, Eurocell. 'These use solid corner pillars combined with high-performance glazing, giving you the light of a traditional conservatory but with the structural integrity and insulation of a brick extension.

'The biggest driver behind this shift is energy efficiency, as an old-style polycarbonate roof can cause up to 80% of heat loss in a room,' continues Beth. 'Modern glass now features smart coatings that reflect heat back into the room during winter while bouncing solar glare away in the summer, which is the key to making these spaces usable year-round.'

There are several other alternatives to consider though if you want to add a new space to your home that still allows you great views and a sense of connection with the garden.

Orangeries

Thanks to some key differences between an orangery and conservatory, the former are fast overtaking them in the popularity stakes.

'In terms of alternatives, there’s definitely been a clear shift towards orangery ideas and full extensions,' reveals Michael Arrowsmith. 'People want something they can use every day, not just when the weather suits. Orangeries sit somewhere in the middle as they have more brickwork and less glass overhead so they tend to feel warmer and more like part of the house.'

'The orangery is an altogether different proposition to the conservatory – and one that is enjoying a very well-deserved renaissance,' picks up Lindi Reynolds. 'Where a conservatory is largely glass – roof, walls, and all – an orangery strikes a more considered balance. Solid structural pillars, robust masonry bases and, in many cases, complete solid walls give the orangery a sense of permanence and privacy that a conservatory simply cannot replicate.

'The roof structure, too, tells a very different story: rather than the 75% glass expanse typical of a conservatory, an orangery features a solid inset roof housing a glazed lantern, flooding the space with natural light from above while retaining heat and structural integrity,' continues Lindi. 'For those seeking maximum thermal efficiency, a fully solid roof finished in tiles or lead is also an option – something structurally impossible in a conservatory.'

Orangeries are definitely a fantastic alternative to traditional conservatories but, if you like this idea, it is worth noting that they do cost more. The average cost of an orangery is £2,250/m² while conservatory costs can start from as little as around £1,000/m² for a simple lean-to design.

Summer houses and garden rooms

Garden rooms and summerhouse have seen a huge surge in popularity in recent years, providing a way of enjoying the garden as well as offering somewhere to escape. They also have multiple uses, from garden offices to full-blown annexes in some cases.

'Conservatories were originally popular because of the indoor-outdoor feel of the space, but today that concept has largely been taken over by modern garden rooms,' says Gabrielle Allen. 'Garden rooms give you the same connection to your garden, but in a space that is genuinely usable all year.

'They are built from far better construction materials, are fully insulated, and can easily incorporate heating and air conditioning,' continues Gabrielle. 'You can still have large doors and windows for panoramic views, but without the compromises that you find in traditional conservatory. Essentially, they offer the best of both worlds – light, open, and connected to the garden, but practical, comfortable, and modern. A garden room is really the contemporary alternative to the outdated conservatories that delivers on both style and functionality.'

Worried about garden room costs? The good news is that you can select basic, log cabin style structures if you are on a tight budget, which might cost you around £1,000 and finish it off on a DIY basis. That said, if you want something a bit higher end, with insulation, heat and electrics, you should budget at least £15,000 with costs rising to £50,000+ for fully-finished designs.

Heavily-glazed extensions

Of course in some cases, building an extension makes more sense than any of these alternatives. Maybe you want to add more than one room or plan on using it for a space that requires a more solid construction. Design one with plenty of glass and you have the best of both worlds.

Obviously an extension costs more than a conservatory (starting from £2,200/m²), but they also increase the value of your home and offer better flexibility in terms of usage.

Glass extensions are the most like-for-like alternative, but these can be prohibitively expensive for many people. By including banks of rooflights, a roof lantern, large bifold or sliding doors or even picture windows you can still achieve an extension that is flooded with light and connected to the garden.

FAQs

How can you modernise a dated conservatory?

If you have an existing conservatory that is looking a little worse for wear, you may well be keen to avoid the disruption and cost of replacing it and try to give it a facelift instead. Conservatory transformations can be simpler than you might think.

'We get a lot of enquiries from people wanting to modernise a conservatory,' says Michael Arrowsmith. 'Modernising it doesn’t always mean starting again – replacing the roof, improving insulation, adding proper heating, or even just updating doors and flooring can completely change how it’s used.

'We often see homeowners either upgrading what they already have or choosing something a bit more solid from the start,' adds Michael. 'Things like tiled or solid roofs, better glazing or opening the space up into the house all make a big difference. Done properly, a conservatory can – and should – feel like a proper room rather than somewhere you only use a few months of the year.'

'The most transformative upgrade is a warm roof system,' adds Beth Bolton. 'Replacing an old roof with a lightweight tiled system instantly fixes the acoustics and makes the space feel like a true extension of your home. They can be installed in as little as 5-7 days.

'Aside from the roof, a simple trick to modernise the look is focusing on the frames,' continues Beth. 'Swapping standard white for Anthracite or Agate Grey mimics the high-end industrial look of expensive aluminium. To make the room feel like part of the home, try using the same flooring in the conservatory as the room it connects to. This visual continuity tricks the eye into seeing one large, cohesive space rather than a separate space.'

Whether you have decided to upgrade your existing conservatory or like the idea of an alternative type of glazed structure, make sure you give plenty of thought to conservatory interior ideas to ensure you are making the most of the extra space.

Garden rooms are a (mostly) fuss-free way of expanding your living spaces, especially in properties where an extension isn't feasible. They surged in popularity a few years ago, and now there is an overwhelming number of companies offering creative garden room designs that can be tailored to almost any garden.

From home offices and gyms to hobby spaces and additional living rooms, adding a garden room often allows homeowners to embrace creativity, productivity and quiet time away from the main house without encroaching on any valuable living space. So, how do you know if a garden room is right (or not!) for you?

I put the question to the experts to find out the signs that you should invest in a garden room.

1. You need a quiet space away from the existing house

Stepping away from the main house spaces and creating a new retreat is a huge appeal of garden rooms.

'Many people choose a freestanding garden room to create additional living space for relaxing and entertaining, separate from the main house,' explains George Lucas, marketing manager at Vale Garden Houses. 'This might be a dedicated sitting area for appreciating the garden, a home office or a multifunctional space.'

While a garden room’s purpose can be as flexible as you like, people generally use them as a sanctuary to work away from the hustle and bustle of a busy house. As a home office, a garden room can offer privacy and a spot to leave and ‘commute’ into work, even when remote.

‘In the early days, the home office was the dominant driver — often triggered by a new addition to the family and one of the adults being gently evicted from the spare room!’ explains James Home, founder at Okopod.

Garden rooms for an office will typically fall under Permitted Development and you will need to comply with Building Regulations for electricity and heating to create a space that can be used year-round. However, this extra effort and disruption will ensure you can have a dedicated wifi hub, decent lighting, and even a spot for a kettle and mini fridge.

2. You want a dedicated space for a creative hobby

Giving up a spare bedroom to a hobby is a really tricky choice and not one that most of us are willing to make — and that’s only if you have a spare room to begin with! Alternatively, getting all the paraphernalia out and setting it up on a dining table just to immediately have to pack it away again is undeniably frustrating. But given the scope of possible garden room ideas, they could be a great alternative, especially if your hobby is pottery, painting or anything else that requires space-hogging equipment.

'The diversity of what people are building has grown,’ says James Home. ‘We've built everything from Pilates and pottery studios to fully functioning marketing suites and even classrooms. The brief is always different, and that's what keeps it interesting. Garden rooms have moved well beyond the traditional office-at-the-bottom-of-the-garden concept.’

'Freeing up space indoors by moving work, hobbies, or leisure activities into the garden can dramatically improve the flow and functionality of the main house without the need for a full extension or home reconfiguration,' adds George Lucas. 'One of the biggest attractions is the sense of connection to the outdoors. A well designed garden room allows homeowners to enjoy their garden in comfort all year round, with natural light, views, and a feeling of being immersed in the garden.'

3. You need extra space but can’t extend

Building an extension is an expensive business and it can cause all kinds of disruption but sometimes it’s not a feasible option for the house and plot. While you will need specific planning permission to turn your garden room into a full-time annexe with a bedroom, bathroom and kitchenette, this might well be worth it for the comparative cost of a loft conversion or similar extension for an additional bedroom.

‘We now do a huge number of home gyms, wellness spaces, annexes and larger multi-room builds,’ explains James Home. ‘What's really struck us is how multifunctional these spaces are — today's home office is tomorrow's gym, or the year after that, an extra bedroom. People are investing in a space that can evolve with their lives, not just solve one immediate problem.’

Another benefit over extending that often goes underestimated is that you can usually move garden rooms if you need. ‘If your circumstances change, a well-built pod will move with you,’ explains James Home. ‘More importantly, a quality garden room will typically add more value to a property than it costs to build, so even from a purely financial perspective, it's rarely the wrong call.’

When is a garden room not the right choice?

There's one factor that could mean a garden room isn't a feasible option for your home and it all comes down to size.

Garden rooms do suit the majority of houses, but they might not be the right choice if it means sacrificing the entirety of your outdoor space. There are also planning restrictions regarding how much of the land surrounding the house can be taken up by outbuildings, such as garden rooms, and it may mean they aren’t possible for your property. As with most building works in Conservation Areas, Listed Buildings or Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, the planning rules will be slightly different and stricter so it’s always best to check with your local building authority before any construction work begins.

Also, while garden rooms are certainly cheaper than extensions to build, they might still be expensive for the size and quality you are after. Prefabricated off-the-shelf designs will be the cheapest to build, with timber frame or insulated garden rooms costing at least £10,000, and sometimes exceeding £25,000.

On heatwave days in the UK, I’m never more thankful for my higgeldy-piddeldy mish-mash of a house. Somehow, between the 1700s stone cottage, the single-storey ‘70s extension and our own renovations over the last few years, we have created a space that is ideal for summer weather.

Despite the warm - to put it mildly - days over the last few weeks, the interior of our house always stayed at a fairly pleasant temperature thanks to a few architectural, interior and landscaping design elements. We had a BBQ when it was 37ºC outside and our guests were adamant we were hiding an AC unit somewhere, but really, it was just a simple pillar fan pushing cool air around.

While it’s not perfect, these are our house’s ingenious ways to keep us cool.

1. We have no south-facing windows

This one we had very little to do with, but it might be something you bear in mind if you’re planning on renovating or building an extension in the future. Our entire house doesn’t have a single south-facing window, meaning throughout the majority of the day we are in shade.

‘Homes with minimal south-facing glass usually tend to be cooler, as larger south or west-facing windows without external shutters or shading can often heat up homes fast,’ explains Chloe Barrow, Interior Expert at Laura James. ‘Because of this, having minimal south-facing glass is great for summer, however we have to appreciate that in our long winters, south-facing glass is great for getting natural light into the home.’

While you can’t reorientate your entire house just for a few days in the summer, reducing the amount of light that penetrates the windows by using strategic window treatments/dressings will be a game-changer.

‘While blinds can look sleek, they often do little to block out heat,’ advises Chloe Barrow. ‘Thin slatted styles especially allow sunlight and warmth to seep in, which quickly raises the internal temperature. In contrast, curtains, especially those with a thermal or blackout lining, can significantly reduce heat from coming in. They create a thicker barrier between your home and the sun’s rays, helping to keep rooms noticeably cooler. During summer, I recommend keeping curtains drawn during the hottest parts of the day to maintain a lower ambient temperature.”

2. We replaced our old windows with low-e glazing

When we replaced our windows they came with a low-e film to meet Building Regulations. Low-e glazing includes a tiny layer of silver-oxide coating which reflects the heat away from the house, instead of allowing it to be refracted indoors. It added a cost to our glazing budget and some people might not like it in winter when their rooms are ever so slightly less bright, but we’ve found them to be non-negotiable.

‘Low-e glazing or simple, calculated roof overhangs stop that energy from crossing the building envelope in the first place, which is much easier than trying to cool a room down after the fact,’ explains Ali Mujtuba.

3. Our layout helps create a through-breeze at night

Anyone who has a warmer house will have sought this bit of advice already - it’s really, really important to keep windows closed during the day in a heatwave, ideally also with the curtains shut. It is only when the external temperature is lower than your internal temperature that you should open your windows.

The broken-plan layout of our renovation was completely accidental in how effective the space is at letting a through-breeze circulate at night. The single-storey section allows air to flow through towards the stone section, where we have installed rooflights.

Zaeem Chaudhary, director of AC Design Solution. explains: ‘Hot air rises — a stack effect where cooler air enters low openings and escapes through high-level rooflights passively purges the heat that builds up in your structure throughout the day. ‘Open-plan layouts remove the internal barriers that would otherwise kill that airflow.’

‘Most people don’t realise that placing large furniture pieces too close to walls can actually stifle air circulation,’ suggests Chloe Barrow. ‘Air needs space to move, especially around naturally cooler areas like walls and floors. If your sofa or sideboard is pressed right up against the wall, you’re limiting that airflow and trapping heat in pockets. Even just pulling pieces a few centimetres away can help fresh air move more freely through the space.’

4. We've decorated in pale colours inside and out

The exterior of the house was painted by the old owners in an extremely pale pink that has faded over time to almost a white. While my plan is to eventually repaint this, I’m definitely going to follow their lead as the pale colour will reflect heat better than a darker colour. You’ll see this design being used in continuously hot countries to reduce solar gain.

Our main interior section, including the kitchen, living room and dining area are all painted in an off-white, which feels much cooler than a dark, rich colour palette.

5. We maximise thermal mass

I was adamant we would not have any carpet in this house, including inside the bedrooms. We used engineered wood flooring throughout the main living area and in the two finished bedrooms. In the old section of the house the original flagstones are in place and in the bathroom we have tile. We’re also working on exposing some internal stone walls to expose as much thermal mass as possible.

This is a technique that has been used throughout history. ‘Exposed stone, ceramic tile, or concrete floor slabs act as direct heat sinks,’ advises historical researcher Ali Mijtuba from The Historical Insights. ‘They absorb ambient warmth from the air during peak daylight hours without rapidly raising the temperature of the room. If someone wants to take it a step further, using internal brickwork or unbaked clay plaster can do wonders. These materials absorb the ambient daytime heat load and drop it slowly overnight when the windows are open.'

6. We've embraced natural shading

Although I said above that we don’t have any south-facing windows, we do actually have our main patio doors that face west that we installed during our major renovation works two years ago. However, thanks to existing mature planting we are able to keep the glass shaded throughout most of the day, meaning the solar gain from the windows is minimal, if at all.

While our wisteria and clematis are extremely well-established, there are other ways you can utilise garden design and strategic planting to shade your patio doors. Fast-growing climbers, such as jasmine or honeysuckle would bulk out fairly quickly if grown up a trellis or pergola. Potted bamboo that can be moved once the sun has returned for the year is also a fantastic alternative.

I don't think any of us were expecting temperatures to exceed 30°C in May, and for me, it felt like a bit of a scramble to get my home heatwave ready.

While I aspire to be one of those people who has a consistently cool home in summer, I do have a way to go, and so I'm taking stock of how my home faired in this first proper hot spell of the year. After all, if past summers are anything to go by, these record temperatures are going to be more commonplace, and as someone who isn't that heat tolerant, works from home and has a pet, keeping as cool as possible is a non-negotiable.

This is what I've learned and what prep I'm doing now for when it gets hot again.

1. It's worth having different types of fans

Investing in one of the best fans is essential for surviving a heatwave in some sort of comfort, but lugging one fan around the house with you is no fun when it's hot. Plus the type of fan you need might vary depending on where you want to use it.

So I've decided I need multiple fans. I like a really quiet pedestal fan in the bedroom and living room, a desktop fan for when I'm working, plus a handheld portable fan that can go with me whenever I am out of reach of the others.

2. Somewhere cool to sleep is a non-negotiable

For some inexplicable reason, my bedroom is hands-down the hottest room in the house and it's very difficult to keep it cool no matter what I do. And that's a big problem when it comes to sleep.

After spending a couple of nights sleeping on the sofa (and now physically paying the price), I've decided that I need an comfortable option for sleeping downstairs when it's roasting hot.

My ideal would be upgrading to a sofa bed, but if my budget won't stretch that far,

3. I need more cooling solutions in my garden

While I'm careful to only walk my dog early in the morning when it's coolest, she does need to go out into the garden throughout the day. And my garden is a roasty little sun-trap, which is nice on mild days, but absolutely unbearable in a heatwave.

And so I need to create more options for shade and doggy cooling before we get the next hot spell.

4. A misting fan is a good halfway house between a fan and portable AC

When it gets really hot, it can feel that fans are just blowing warm air around the room. But if you don't want to go down the portable air conditioner route, then a misting fan is a good mid point.

I just tried by first misting fan, and was really impressed by how cooling it was. I didn't end up drenched either. You've got to be in the path of the airflow to feel the benefit, unlike a portable AC that will effectively cool the entire room.

5. I shouldn't wait for a heatwave to buy a portable air conditioner

Every single time there is a heatwave, the best portable air conditioners sell out. We've been covering portable air conditioners for years at Ideal Home and we've seen it happen time and time again.

When I realised that my bedroom has reached 29°C, despite having the window and curtains closed, I was ready to treat a portable air conditioner as an impulse purchase and finally buy the one I'd had my eye on for a while. But alas, so had every other boiling hot person in the country it seemed, and my top picks were quickly selling out.

But now I have learned my lesson, I will definitely not wait until the heatwave hits to buy a portable air con unit, I'm keeping an eye on stock levels and as soon as my favourite is back in stock, I'm buying it.

While it's lovely that summer weather has finally arrived in the UK, I do hate when my house gets too hot for comfort. As someone who's not very heat tolerant at the best of times, works from home and has a pet, not being able to find respite in the heat can be really difficult.

While a home's orientation and insulation levels will play a big part in how susceptible it is to overheating, there are a few key things that those with consistently cool homes during the summer have that can be applied to any home to keep unwanted heat out.

This year, I'm determined this year to do everything I can to prevent my home from overheating, especially if that means I can stay cool in bed overnight. So I've done my research and quizzed my friends whose homes always seem to be comfortably cool when the heat hits, and these are the tricks they swear by.

1. A decent fan

Having one of the best fans ready to go in your home when the heat hits is absolutely essential. But not all fans are created equal, and if you've still got the same inexpensive fan that you've had for 10 years it might be time to upgrade.

Many of the newer fans on the market are more powerful, more energy efficient and offer much better oscillation than their older counterparts, which means they are much more effective at getting the air circulating around your home. That air movement across your skin helps you to feel cooler and, if you position your fan correctly, can push hot air out and help you draw cooler air in.

2. Blackout curtains or blinds

Blackout or thermal blinds and curtains are not only useful for keeping your home warm in winter, but they can also help keep it cool in summer by effectively blocking the sunlight from coming in to your home.

But for this to be most effective you have to be strategic about when you open and close them. Having the curtains (and windows) open overnight can help release the warm air that has built up in your home during the day, and let in the fresher air during the coolest hours of the day.

It's a good idea to then close your blinds while your home is at it's coolest, and before the sun has chance to stream through your windows again.

3. Outdoor shade

If you have large windows or patio doors to your garden, then you might be enjoying beautiful views of your outdoor space, but you're probably also making your home hotter. Especially if you have a south-facing garden.

But those with cool homes have embraced either permanent or temporary garden shade ideas to prevent overheating, while maintaining views and connection with the outdoor space.

Sun sails, awnings and pergolas attached to, or placed close to your home, can offer additional shade around large patio doors, and help to ease solar gain. Even fast-growing climbing plants can help to provide a bit of additional shade to keep your home feeling cool.

4. Smart plugs

Leaving appliances on standby not only means that you could be wasting energy, but they could also be emitting heat which is making your home hotter (and which means you have to work harder to cool it down).

Investing in smart plug that will allow you to use your phone to turn off any vampire appliances that you aren't using will mean that they stop generating any unnecessary heat without you realising it.

It could also prevent the appliances themselves from overheating.

For those appliances that you do use more regularly, like ovens, switching to an air fryer during a heatwave can help keep your kitchen cool.

5. Air conditioning

For those with the most consistently cool homes during summer, air conditioning is arguably the biggest game changer. With summers seemingly getting hotter each year, more and more people are turning to portable or even fitted air con options to maintain their comfort levels at home.

The easiest and most affordable option is to invest in a portable air conditioner. While these units can be noisy, using them to pre-cool a room before you use it can make it much more bearable.

The quietest option, however, is to opt for fitted air conditioning. But with these units fixed to your wall, you can't move it around with you, so you'll need to pick which room or rooms you want cooling most. This is also a more expensive option. Where a portable air conditioner could cost around £400, fitted air con in a single room could cost around £2,000.

I moved into my two-bedroom Victorian end-of-terrace home in May 2021 and was beyond excited after a somewhat painful eight-month buying process. The property had been rented out for over a decade, and despite needing a good dose of TLC, it had oodles of potential.

My one bugbear, however, was the kitchen. Like many Victorian terraces, it had a narrow U-shaped kitchen at the back with a side-return entrance from the garden. In addition to being cramped, it hadn’t been looked after by the previous tenants. The cabinets were hickledy-pickeldy, there were gaps in the worktops, and, quite possibly worse of all, it was painted an overpowering shade of sky blue.

I decided to invest a sum of inheritance money in having a side-return extension built to expand the kitchen. I knew exactly what I wanted, and as a homes and interiors journalist, I also knew the pitfalls of finding a reliable builder. However, no amount of diligence could truly protect me from the most determined rogue traders.

Here’s what I learned…

The search for a builder begins

I started my search by posting the job on MyBuilder. I’d used the site before for smaller jobs and had success finding reliable tradespeople. Nine companies responded to my post. I reviewed each profile carefully and invited the three with the best reviews to come to my home to provide a quote.

Following their visits, I eagerly awaited the figures. My favourite builder had arrived with a surveyor and, despite having some ideas above my budget, was friendly and assertive. His company, Mila & Me, provided a professional quote on headed paper with a comprehensive breakdown of materials, timescales and details of their insurance as requested. It was a mid-range price, too. Not the most expensive, but not the cheapest either.

I then did my further due diligence and checked the company’s reviews on accredited sites such as Which?. Again, top reviews, with images, going back a decade or so. This gave me confidence that it was a well-established company with a history of quality builds. Green flags all round!

Handing over the money

Once I had decided to appoint Mila & Me, a polite gentleman called me to arrange the payment of the deposit. My first mistake! I thought this was a normal part of hiring a tradesperson, as they needed to guarantee your commitment to the project and pay for some materials up front. He requested a third of the full amount, which equated to around £13,000, and recommended I pay some of it by credit card, in addition to debit card. I confidently transferred the cash and anticipated the work to begin at the end of the summer of 2022.

Building suspicions

On the day the work was scheduled to begin, I waited eagerly at home. Plans had been drawn up and permissions were in place. Nobody turned up. It took a while to get hold of the office, but eventually somebody answered the phone, this time a woman, who apologised that the previous job had overrun and I should have been contacted. I’m naturally more inclined to trust women, and therefore, my mind was put at ease.

However, the next promised date came and went with no visit. I kept calling, and eventually the phone line went dead. Panic set in as I checked Google Reviews once more. My stomach sank. It showed reams and reams of new reviews stating that the company had not turned up to start their jobs either. Some had even been left half-started, with walls knocked down and foundations half-dug.

Taking action

Firstly, I contacted Action Fraud. I think I cried at them. They gave me a police reference number and told me to contact my bank. Then I waited helplessly, knowing that if this money was lost, my dream extension was lost with it.

A few weeks down the line, I found a Facebook thread from others who had been potentially scammed by Mila & Me. I was subsequently added to a WhatsApp group, and the numbers were outstanding. More than 100 members across three counties, including Essex, Kent and Hertfordshire, each one a victim of an elaborate plot to ‘hijack’ a reputable company and steal as much money in deposits as possible. They’d strung everybody along for as long as they could, then chosen a date to pull the plug. Offices had been left empty, and phones were off the hook.

We collated a spreadsheet of information for the police, which revealed Mila & Me had stolen more than a million pounds in total. However, frustratingly, the perpetrators were never brought to justice.

A victimless crime?

After several months, numerous conversations with my bank and a lot of tears later, I was reimbursed by NatWest under Section 75 protection. This states that when you pay for a purchase between £100 and £30,00 on a credit card, you are legally protected if the retailer or service provider fails to deliver. I don’t think I have ever been so relieved.

The fraudsters clearly advised me, knowing I would likely be reimbursed by my bank, and therefore their trickery was, to them, a victimless crime. However, I would argue the financial cost to the economy, not to mention the emotional impact on the victims, is significant.

After a breather of several months, I began my search for another builder, but my guard was up. My money was only reimbursed by the bank because I had done my ‘due diligence’ on researching the company. However, there were definite red flags that I ignored.

Here are three things that I would do differently next time…

What I'd do differently

1. Watch out for upselling

Although the builder who visited my home was polite and professional, he was heavy on upselling. He had grand ideas on how I could have swapped my kitchen and dining room around and added a downstairs toilet. Now I see that he was hoping to inspire me to commit to more work and, therefore, hand over a bigger deposit.

2. Paying a deposit

This is a tricky one. It’s best to avoid paying a deposit at all, but for big projects, traders often require one before work starts. Citizens Advice recommends offering to buy the materials yourself instead, so you own them if something goes wrong.

Alternatively, it advises paying no more than 25% of the total price, never paying cash, and always getting a receipt. I would certainly never pay as much as a third of the total cost upfront again.

3. Check Companies House

Companies House is a free Government website that allows you to find information on all registered companies in the UK. When I researched Mila & Me before appointing them, I could see that it had been taken over by new directors the previous year.

While this needn’t necessarily be a warning sign, it might be worth investigating further, including asking to see examples of building work since the new team took over.

Here are three things I’m glad I did and would do again in future…

What I'd do the same

1. Check multiple review sites

Don’t just rely on word of mouth, a business card or the tradesperson’s website. I checked multiple review sites. Social media is another great place to do some detective work.

Unfortunately, the people I hired had taken advantage of an existing company’s reputation and relied on historic positive feedback, but I imagine this is extremely rare.

2. Get multiple quotes

Checkatrade advises getting multiple, itemised quotes – including VAT – from several tradespeople to get an idea of fair prices in your region. I followed these words of wisdom by getting three quotes and choosing the company with the median price. As a rule, if it’s so cheap it seems too good to be true, it probably is.

It’s also important to know the difference between a quote and an estimate. An estimate is not a fixed price, whereas a quote should include everything unless clearly stated as an extra, such as radiators or plug sockets.

3. Pay a small amount by credit card

The scammers advised me to pay a small amount of my deposit by credit card, which, although in hindsight indicates their intention to do a runner, I’m very glad I did. The Section 75 law makes the card provider jointly liable for goods/services, so it’s a savvy idea to pay even a few pounds on a credit card for any large purchase. While it’s not guaranteed, it’s an encouraging safety net.

Lessons learned

I realise I was extremely unlucky. You can follow all the advice, do your research and still come unstuck. Despite being reassured by Action Fraud and my bank that I had done my best to avoid such a situation, I still felt embarrassed and perturbed by my experience.

There are lots of great tradespeople out there, but don’t be afraid to ask awkward questions, probe into their background, and, if something feels off, listen to your gut. Lastly, if something goes wrong, always report it to the relevant authorities and be persistent with your legal rights.

Mila & Me was dissolved as a company in March 2024 according to Companies House, and is no longer operating.

When my partner and I bought our hodge-podge half cottage-half 70 bungalow house, we had a list of things we knew we wanted to change. But as any renovator will know, you have to start with the urgent issues, such as rewiring, new plumbing and a new bathroom, and leave more aesthetic changes for a later date.

Happily for us, we’re now three years into our renovation have tackled the core issues, which means we’re now able to make optional changes to boost our home's kerb appeal. One of those changes was to update the exterior of the 1970s single-storey extension with an integrated garage.

The previous owners had used clad the structure in a concrete stone replica, which really jars against the natural stone of our cottage. I also feel like it dates the house in a negative way and, while I’m a big fan of keeping mid-century charm just as much as historic features, this definitely needs an upgrade. So, when it came to our home's exterior cladding, we went with timber, balancing our shoestring budget with maximum kerb appeal.

This is how we did it.

Step 1: Securing planning permission to reclad our garage

Of all the things to know before cladding your home, the planning rules are arguably the most important. In many cases, cladding will fall under permitted development, but that is not always the case, so it's crucial you check with your local planning authority before you make changes.

Our house is in a Conservation Area and so we don’t benefit from most of the Permitted Development rights that other houses do. This includes our ability to change the appearance of the house. So, when we applied for planning permission to make alterations, such as replacing the windows, creating a new driveway and installing rooflights, we included our proposals for recladding the front elevations.

From the street, our house can be visually split into three sections: the two-storey cottage, the pitch roof extension that runs adjacent and the flat roof extension at the back, which includes the garage.

Our idea was to create changes that visually ‘zone’ the exterior, so the original stonework of the cottage is being repointed in lime, the pitched roof section will be rendered in lime (in-keeping with the village we live in), and, we'd reclad the flat-roof section with timber.

Fortunately, planning permission was granted with minimal fuss.

Step 2: Setting a budget for the timber cladding

There are lots of different types of cladding, and while timber cladding is generally considered to be a great option for those on a budget, in reality, the costs can escalate quickly once you consider quality, longevity and maintenance. I knew we had to find a happy medium, so we opted for untreated larch for £445 including delivery, battens and corner pieces. Additional materials, such as stainless steel nails, cement screws and a rodent mesh were another £30.

We didn’t get any quotes from contractors to do this job, because we were both fairly confident we could tackle it on a DIY basis, but I would expect costs of around £200 per day to get someone in to do it for us.

We had many of the tools we needed already, but if you were starting without, I would definitely recommend a mitre saw, like this Einhell mitre saw (£89.99 from Toolstation) and a plunge/track saw, like this Draper plunge saw (£159.99 at Toolstation), as they saved us so much time and effort cutting the pieces to size.

Step 3: Installing the cladding

First things first, we installed battens to the concrete ‘stone’ of the garage using corrosion-resistant masonry screws, a tricky venture when working with an incredibly uneven profile, but we managed to get them square. The battens are primarily to secure the boards on to the wall, but they also provide an essential ventilation air gap so the wood doesn’t go mouldy during the winter.

We didn't need to use a weatherproof membrane as the garage was already watertight, but before doing your own cladding, I would recommend double checking that before you start.

Starting from the bottom, we used stainless steel nails to secure the boards, overlapping the next board up to give the shiplap effect. One of the best decisions we made was scouring the internet and local saw mills to source horizontal planks that would stretch the length of the garage with no joins or cuts. Not only did this make our lives a million times easier during installation, but it also looks so much neater.

Unfortunately, we couldn't install the cladding right to the bottom on the wall and had to stop at the line of the damp proof course to prevent rotting. So, after the timber was in place, I used an external masonry paint in a dark green colour to visually push back the lower section of the wall. We also installed a special mesh designed to keep pesky rodents out of the cladding along the bottom, but you can't see it at all.

How do I feel now it’s finished?

The process took a couple of days for a 15m2 area, so if you’re thinking of doing a similar job, then I would put aside a long weekend — 3-4 days should do it.

Once the first couple of boards were on, I was initially concerned about the colour of the larch as it had a bit of a pink tint that definitely wasn't the look I was hoping for. I did worry we'd made a mistake for a good few weeks, but trusted the weathering process. Now a year on, I can happily say the weathering is toning those hues down nicely as the wood silvers with age.

I would definitely try cladding again and think most people and novice DIYers could give it a go, especially for the savings.

We’re not entirely done with the exterior renovation just yet and need to do the lime cladding on the rest of the house, but as a start, I’m delighted with it!

Conservatories have undoubtedly come a long way since the days when they picked up their reputation for being leaky, draughty add-ons that were freezing in winter and unbearably hot in summer, but that doesn't mean they don't still throw up a few issues from time to time.

Being constructed from such a large amount of glass inevitably means that, when the sun is beating down, even high-quality conservatories can become pretty balmy – so if you don't want to find yourself having to avoid spending time there you will need to think about how you will address this.

Air conditioning might seem like the most obvious solution but is it the best way to keep a conservatory cool? To find out, I asked the experts.

Is conservatory air conditioning a good idea?

While air conditioning was rarely found in UK homes in the past, it is now becoming a more common feature – due, in part, to domestic units now being more widely available and affordable as well as the fact that temperatures are on the rise. But how do they perform in a conservatory?

'It really depends on the space and how it’s built,' picks up Martyn Fowler, founder of Elite Renewables. 'Conservatories are one of the hardest areas of a house to control temperature in because of the amount of glazing. In summer they heat up very quickly and in winter heat loss is an issue.

'If you use the space regularly then an air conditioning unit can make it far more usable during hot weather,' continues Martyn. 'Some modern units can also provide cooling and heating, so they help in winter as well. The key thing is that the unit needs to be sized correctly. If the system is too small it will struggle to keep up with the heat gain from the glass.'

'Using air conditioning in a conservatory may help to keep things cooler in summer but the size of the unit versus the area you are trying to keep cool will need calculating for full effect,' agrees Terry Hill, MD of KLG Rutland. 'If the conservatory is actually south facing, then even a top-of the-range-system might struggle.'

What type of air conditioning is best for a conservatory?

There are several different types of air conditioning and what works for one home might be quite different to the best solution for another. In conservatories, however, extra care needs to go into choosing the best system if you want this to be a worthwhile investment.

'A key thing to consider is that conservatories are less energy efficient because they are not insulated,' explains Tom Houlker, air conditioning expert and director of HoulkAir. 'This means that a higher power supply, or BTUs, is needed to control the room's temperature. The higher the required power supply, the higher the price of a unit.'

Power aside, for most people, the decision comes down to portable vs wall-mounted air conditioning – so which is best?

'Portable units are fine for occasional use, but they are not ideal for conservatories that get very hot,' explains Martyn Fowler. 'They tend to be noisy and less efficient. You also need a hose vented through a window, which lets warm air back in.'

'Portable units and standing fans are less expensive and are functional alternatives, but they take up valuable room and are cumbersome,' adds Tom Houlker.

'A wall-mounted split system is usually the better option if you use the room a lot,' advises Martyn Fowler. 'These are quieter and much more effective at dealing with the heat load from large areas of glass.'

Shop portable air conditioners

What is the best way to use air conditioning in a conservatory?

If you decide to go ahead and either install wall-mounted air conditioning or invest in one of the best portable air conditioning units out there, you want to ensure you are getting the most out of it. According to Terry Hill, in many cases, this will mean making a few upgrades to older conservatories.

'To give air conditioning a chance, use heat reflective glass with good thermal resistance for new or refurbished conservatories,' advises Terry. 'To make your conservatory comfortably usable all year round opt for a premium solid tiled roof with heat reflective sky lights.'

'Air conditioning works best when the space is already reasonably well controlled in terms of temperature,' agrees Martyn Fowler. 'If the room is overheating badly, the system will have to work much harder and running costs will be higher.'

Are there other ways to keep a conservatory cool without air conditioning?

Of course air conditioning is just one way of keeping a conservatory cool – there are lots of other methods that work really well too. In fact, Martyn Fowler suggests trying these before parting with any money.

'I would look at shading and ventilation before installing air conditioning,' says Martyn. 'If the sun is hitting the glass all day, the room will overheat no matter what cooling system you use. Conservatory blinds, solar control film or roof shading can reduce the heat load significantly and make any cooling system you do invest in more effective.

'Opening roof vents and windows on opposite sides, or fitting a small extractor fan can also help move hot air out,' continues Martyn. 'Heat builds up high in a conservatory, so ventilation at roof level is very effective.

'It is also worth looking at modernising an old conservatory. Insulation upgrades can help too,' Martyn adds. 'You can replace polycarbonate roofs with insulated tiled systems, which keeps the temperature much more stable all year round. That is a bigger investment though.'

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FAQs

Does conservatory air conditioning add value to a home?

While conservatories can be the perfect spot to enjoy the best views of your garden, when they are badly designed or have seen better days, they can actually devalue a house. However, with a few upgrades this can change – and air conditioning can help here too.

'Well-designed conservatories can add 5-10% to a home's value, and installing an integrated AC unit can provide 2.5% on top of this,' reveals Tom Houlker. 'Air conditioning units are a great long-term investment to keep your conservatory functional and comfortable all year round.

'While installations are an investment, they quietly add value to your home – and they provide greater comfort in more ways than one. Units can also filter outside particles, keeping the air inside your home cleaner. This is perfect for hay fever sufferers.'

One of the biggest conservatory design mistakes is to overlook the need for proper shading from the sun. It isn't just blinds that can help here though – window films and tints can also make a huge difference.

Conservatories continue to be a popular way to add space to a house, providing a bright, airy new room that feels wholly connected to the garden, but without the need for a lengthy planning process or too much in the way of disruptive building work.

Interestingly, building regulations approval is not usually needed for conservatories either making the construction process even simpler. That said, if you are planning a conservatory and want to ensure it is exempt, there are certain criteria you need to be aware of, otherwise you could end up breaching the rules and, in some cases, actually devaluing your home.

One key requirement of the building regs is that a door needs to separate the main house and conservatory, but things are not always straightforward, plus there are other criteria that need to be taken into consideration too. In order to help you get to grips with all the rules and regs you need to be aware of, including when, where and how you'll need to separate your conservatory from your house, I asked the experts to clarify things.

Does there have to be a door between a conservatory and the house?

First things first – you may well have heard that there has to be a door separating a conservatory from the main house and, if you were in any doubt, I asked Paula Higgins, Chief Executive at HomeOwners Alliance, to clear things up.

'For a conservatory to be exempt from building regulations there generally needs to be a door, wall or window separating it from the main house,' explains Paula. 'In practice this means the conservatory must be thermally separated from the property by external-quality doors, windows or the original external wall. If those doors or the wall are removed and the conservatory becomes open plan with the house, it is usually treated as an extension, and the full building regulations will apply.'

'If you remove that door without upgrading the conservatory, you are technically in breach of the building regs,' adds Zaeem Chaudhary, director and Chartered Architectural Technologist at AC Design Solution.

Why is a door needed between a conservatory and house?

Clearly then, if you want your conservatory to remain exempt from building regulations, a door or some kind of acceptable thermal separation is needed – but why is this?

The building regulations for conservatories are not just there to make homeowners jump through unnecessary hoops – they are designed to ensure homes are safe to live in as well as being as energy efficient as possible.

One of the main reasons why a door is required to separate the conservatory from the house is to prevent the spread of fire, reducing the risk of a fire spreading from the conservatory into the rest of the house.

The door is also designed to help improve energy efficiency. Conservatories can be a source of heat loss and, in many cases, are prone to fluctuating temperatures. By installing a door, your home's heating system won't be under as much pressure to keep the temperature in your house stable.

Why type of door can be used?

It is important to be aware that you can't just install any old door between your house and conservatory to meet building regs requirements.

When buying internal doors, they must be fire-rated, meaning they have been tested to prevent the spread of fire for a minimum amount of time.

This doesn't mean you'll be restricted when it comes to finding stylish doors to do your glazed addition justice. There are plenty of options, from bifold doors and sliding to more traditional French doors out there that come with suitable fire-ratings.

Can a conservatory ever be open to the rest of the house?

More and more homeowners are now choosing to convert their conservatories into full-blown extensions, opening them up to the rest of the house and carrying out upgrades that make them more comfortable to spend time in.

However, once you open it up to the rest of the house you will almost certainly need to get building regulations approval. It isn't just a case of meeting all the rules and regs – this will also ensure your safety and enjoyment of the new space.

'If you want an open plan I would strongly suggest upgrading the conservatory roof, there are retrofit roofing companies specially for conservatories which helps when it comes to meeting the building regulation requirements for energy efficiency,' says Zaeem Chaudhary. 'You will also need to upgrade the insulation.'

'It’s also important to note that any new structural opening created between the house and the conservatory will require building regulations approval, even if the conservatory structure would otherwise qualify for exemption,' adds Paula Higgins.

What other changes might mean conservatory building regs are needed?

It isn't just removing a door that will mean conservatory building regulations approval will be needed, as Paula Higgins points out.

'There are also several other conditions that typically need to be met for the exemption,' she says. 'The conservatory should be single storey, built at ground level and no larger than 30m2, and it should have an independent heating system with separate temperature and on/off controls rather than being connected to the home’s central heating.

'Even where the conservatory itself is exempt, glazing and any fixed electrical installations must still comply with the relevant building regulations,' adds Paula.

FAQs

What should you do if you inherited a conservatory that’s open to the rest of the house?

If you have purchased an older property to renovate you might find that there is no door between the existing conservatory and house and, in reality, this is something that should be pointed out when buying a house while the relevant surveys were being carried out.

'If you have inherited a conservatory that is already open to the house, you can check whether building regulations approval was ever obtained,' advises Zaeem Chaudhary. 'If they weren't and it is 12 months after the work was carried out, enforcement action is unlikely, but when it comes to selling your solicitor will ask about it.

'You should either reinstate the door or upgrade the conservatory to full extension standards.'

When might you need planning permission for a conservatory?

The world of conservatory planning permission can be a complicated one and, while in many cases it won't be necessary to apply for permission, this isn't a given.

'If you’re considering adding a conservatory, it’s also worth checking the planning rules and who you hire to build it,' picks up Paula Higgins. 'Many conservatories fall within permitted development, meaning planning permission isn’t usually required if they stay within certain size and height limits, but this can change if you live in a listed building, conservation area or have already extended your home significantly.

'And, as with any home improvement project, the quality of the installation matters. Look for reputable tradespeople, ideally those registered with recognised glazing schemes such as FENSA, ask to see previous work and always get multiple quotes and a clear written contract before starting the project.'

If you are considering taking down an existing conservatory or adding a new one and are wondering if a conservatory will add value, there are several points to consider. The answer to this very much depends on the quality of the design and its construction if this is to be a useful addition that enhances the house rather than drags it down.

Trends regularly change and evolve – and this goes even for exterior house colours. As homeowners start to favour new shades, other house colours are going out of style in 2026.

If you’re planning on giving your home’s facade a colourful makeover this year and are looking for some house exterior colour ideas, as well as what shades not to go for, I’d recommend steering clear of the once extremely popular soft yellows, magnolias and beiges.

‘There’s a real sense of familiarity and comfort in those creamy beige and soft yellow tones that have been a staple on British homes for decades,’ says Marianne Shillingford, creative director and colour expert at Dulux. ‘They were loved for being easy, warm and reassuringly “timeless”, which made them a go-to choice for exteriors.’

But in 2026, that’s no longer the case.

Why are these colours going out of style?

In the last couple of years, colour trends have been shifting towards more expressive and attention-grabbing tones, moving away from the previously favoured soft neutrals.

‘As our relationship with colour has become more confident and expressive, those custard-like shades can now feel a little flat and dated. Today, people are looking for colours with more depth and nuance – shades that respond to the light and bring a sense of design intention to the outside of the home, rather than simply blending in,’ Marianne at Dulux explains.

She adds, ‘As more of us start to view the outside of our homes as an extension of our personal style, there’s a real confidence emerging in colour choices. The exterior is no longer an afterthought – it’s one of the most transformative and accessible ways to elevate kerb appeal and create that all-important first impression.’

What’s replacing them

While earthy shades, deep burgundy tones and soft blues are reigning home decor trends this year, the biggest exterior house colour trends aim to stand out by going much darker.

‘We’re seeing a rise in bolder, more architectural shades. Deep charcoals, inky navies and complex dark neutrals which bring an immediate sense of sophistication and design intent, while still feeling timeless. They highlight the structure of a property beautifully and add a sense of drama without overwhelming it,’ Marianne reveals.

While I’m personally not the biggest fan of dark greys or charcoal, I’m all for deep blue houses! And these would be my top picks if I were to paint the exterior of my house (if I had one, that is).

Marianne at Dulux concludes, ‘These shades offer depth, elegance and versatility, and they shift gently with the changing light throughout the day. It’s this combination of impact and longevity that’s inspiring people to be braver, and to see exterior colour as a powerful tool in creating a home that feels considered from every angle.’

Every day, I am reminded that I wish I had a bigger hallway. I take my dog Blossom out for a walk three times a day, as she will attest (if she could talk), the hallway is not big enough for both of us.

Blossom will be itching to go, spinning in excitement by the front door, which is exactly where I put my coat and shoes, and it's a daily dance between Blossom and I to get ready for walkies in the cramped space. Something similar happens whenever I have my food shopping or a parcel delivered, where I'll usually have to tuck the deliveries into the living room door way to be able to move enough to close the front door.

I've long considered whether adding a porch might be the solution to a little bit more breathing space, but as someone who understands the benefit of making better use of existing space before adding more, I spoke to the experts to see what other options I may have.

1. Declutter

Hallways are the ideal storage spot for storing coats, shoes, backs and dog paraphernalia, and mine is no different. But I'm certain that all that clutter is doing my small hall no favours whatsoever.

So before I even think about remodelling or adding more space, I'm going to try these decluttering methods as a free way to achieve as much extra space as possible.

'There's nothing worse than walking through the door and being bombarded with coats, bags and unsent parcels (and then tripping over a mountain of shoes),' says Ideal Home's decluttering expert Lauren Bradbury. 'And all of that clutter will make a hallway seem even smaller. Donate or sell anything you don’t use or need anymore and then see if you can store seasonal items elsewhere when they’re not required.'

2. Remodel the existing space

Once I've decluttered, if the space still feels too small, then doing a bit of internal remodelling by knocking down, moving or altering walls between my hall and living room is another option I'm prepared to consider,

‘In many UK homes, particularly Victorian and Edwardian properties, hallways can feel narrow because they’re enclosed and lack natural light but there are workarounds,’ says Mark Hood, Director of Architecture at Resi. ‘Merging the hallway with the living space can turn a ‘transition zone’ into a larger open-plan layout. Incorporating simple design details, like continuous flooring or directional patterns, will help guide the eye through the space, making it feel longer, more cohesive and more enjoyable to occupy.

‘A popular alternative is internal glazing. This allows light to travel through the hallway while still keeping it defined - which is great if you want to retain a sense of separation while still achieving that open feel.’

3. Extend with a porch

If decluttering didn't help and remodelling isn't an option, then adding more space with a porch could be the solution I'm looking for.

‘While I've tried so many decluttering hacks and products to curb the chaos in my own entryway, the reality is that it's always going to be a struggle if you don't have the space,' shares Lauren. 'I've even tried storing items elsewhere and nearby in the cupboard under my stairs, but these outdoor essentials always end up back near the front door as that's where they're needed the most. So, adding a porch can be a great way to give these items a home, without completely taking over your entryway.'

'If you’re considering an extension, the trusted porch takes a traditional feature and gives it a modernised take while also adding a practical buffer for storage and improving energy efficiency,' adds Mark. 'If you have the luxury of owning enough space to the front of your home, it is as reliable as ever and can be delivered with a modern finish.

'Ultimately, the right solution comes down to balancing your design ambition with practical considerations like fire safety, structure and acoustics. This will all ensure that your hallway is a space you can be proud of.'

There are so many things you can do to enhance the kerb appeal of your home – ensuring you choose the right style of windows and front door, tidying up your driveway and front garden, and painting woodwork being just a few. However, if you really want to zhuzh up the appearance of your house, building a porch has to be one of the best ways.

Not only are porches practical additions, adding somewhere to shelter from the elements while rummaging for front door keys, or even providing storage for outdoor footwear in some cases, but they can also add character and another dimension to a facade.

Of course, much of this depends on the design of the porch and, in particular, is hinged on getting its size just right – too big and it could overwhelm, opt for small porch ideas that are too tiny and they'll be dwarfed. With this in mind, I am here to explain how to ensure your porch is the perfect size for your home and requirements.

Is there an ideal porch size?

As with so many aspects of house design, there is not a one-size-fits-all solution to porch size – or to porch ideas in general for that matter. The right approach is always going to be a tailored one, as Elizabeth Assaf, co-founder and designer at Urban Front, explains.

'The size of the porch is important in terms of what it is protecting,' says Elizabeth. 'If it's just to protect the door then I would say it should extend to the front by at least 1m to 1.5m and at least 500mm on each side.

'However, some porch canopies are smaller so you would only be protecting the top of the door or someone standing at the door from the rain,' continues Elizabeth. 'It's important to remember that rain can be horizontal too which is why when considering the size you should consider what it is you are protecting.'

Is there a standard porch size?

Porches are most often custom made, designed and constructed to suit the house that they are being added to meaning there is no standard size as such.

That said, it is possible to buy 'off-the-shelf' porches and canopies. These are usually lightweight structures and, unlike more sturdy designs that are constructed on-site, won't require foundations. Many are often possible to install on a DIY basis too.

Sizes of these types of porch vary, but expect widths from 1.5m up to around 3m. Given that most standard front doors are sized at just under 1m (762mm-915mm generally), this makes sense.

What are the right dimensions for your porch?

The real question should not be 'what is the perfect porch size?' but 'which is the best size of porch for my home?' Just as when it comes to selecting the right size of windows, getting the proportions of such a prominent feature wrong can totally ruin the overall look and kerb appeal of a house.

'The proportions of the main house are a great starting point when deciding your porch design – the width of the elevation and the height of the eaves and ridge on the house for example,' advises Merry Albright, creative director at Border Oak. 'A too wide porch on a narrow home might feel too dominant, but equally a skinny porch on a long facade may look a bit minimal and unbalanced.

'Another crucial consideration should be keeping the traditional porch proportions, almost regardless of the main house, as the porch will be something you judge on its own merits too,' continues Merry. 'A wide porch with a flattened ridge and reduced roof pitch will always look a bit odd, but a vernacular proportioned oak porch will always look right, even if the host house isn’t classically proportioned. If you get these hand crafted details right the porch will look amazing, and will bring you joy every day. There aren’t many architectural features that you get so close to every time to come home or leave.'

'It does really depend on the style of the home, what suits the front elevation, if there is enough space for it and if it's adding any value,' agrees Elizabeth Assaf. 'I don't think there is 'too big' – just what suits the house and doesn't look ridiculous! I am a lover of a 'big enough' porch – the kind you see that wraps around a home and provides a large area before you open the door and enter, even somewhere to sit.'

How big can a porch be without planning permission?

Before getting too carried away with your design ideas it is important to investigate whether or not porch planning permission will be needed.

'In the UK, a porch can usually be built without planning permission if it meets the permitted development limits,' explains Elizabeth Assaf. 'The external ground area should be no more than 3m2 and the structure must be no higher than 3m. It also needs to be set at least 2m back from any highway boundary or boundary of your home.'

Additionally, it is worth noting that if your house is listed or within a conservation area or other designated zone, permission may well be required. And, if you have already extended your home significantly, you might need to apply for permission to build your new porch.

How big can a porch be without needing building regs approval?

Another thing you need to know before installing a porch and determining its size is that, in some cases, building regulations may apply.

According to Planning Portal, providing your porch is less than 30m2 and is built at ground floor level, there is no need to apply for building regulations approval.

Sizes aside, to be exempt from building regs, your porch must also feature compliant glazing and electrical installations – and it will need to be separated from any habitable rooms with a door too.

FAQs

What is the difference between a porch and a door canopy?

Both porches and canopies can work well for different types of properties and budgets – but what's the difference between a porch and canopy?

'A front door canopy provides cover and protection, usually by sitting directly above your door and giving an overhang which projects from the front of a building. This overhang, depending on its size, can offer beneficial shelter against rain, sun and wind,' explains Elizabeth Assaf. 'A bit like an umbrella for your door.

'A porch, on the other hand, is often more enclosed – it can have sides, pillars or windows but it can also be a completely enclosed space with a door of its own,' continues Elizabeth. 'A door that is set well back from the front face of the building but with an open front, might be considered a type of porch/canopy hybrid. If you are building or renovating from scratch, this type of front door protection is useful to plan into your design.'

If you are the owner of a porch that has seen better days, it is well worth looking into how to make a porch look more expensive. There are some brilliant ways to elevate this all-important feature that need not cost a fortune.

Conservatories can be used for all kinds of things – as an extra living room from which to enjoy views out over your well-tended garden, as a sunny spot to sit and work from home away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, or even as bright and open kitchen extension – but how about a conservatory bedroom?

While the idea might sound like a good one, particularly if you are planning a conservatory that could double up as a guest bedroom, given all the glazing that goes into the construction of this kind of structure, how practical an idea actually is it when it comes to things like privacy, temperature regulation and furniture layouts?

If you are toying with the idea of designing a bedroom within your conservatory, I asked the experts for their top tips on ensuring the new space is dreamy – not an awful nightmare.

Do conservatories make good bedrooms?

Unlike in a room within the main house, the walls of a conservatory are largely glass – and in some cases, the roof will also be glazed. Additionally, in many cases the conservatory will be separated from the main body of the house by external doors. But does this mean you can't successfully create a bedroom here?

Terry Hill, managing director at KLG Rutland, thinks conservatories can be brilliant places to realise your bedroom ideas, with the right approach. 'Turning a conservatory into a bedroom is a fun alternative to the usual brick walls. There’s nothing better than waking up on a sunny day and being able to enjoy your garden from your bed, or cosy nights staring up at the stars,' says Terry.

Michael Arrowsmith, manager at Etheridge Windows, agrees that, with careful design, a conservatory bedroom can be a good idea. 'A conservatory bedroom can work well, but only if it’s planned properly. The main thing to understand is that a traditional conservatory behaves very differently to the rest of the house.

'In terms of whether it’s a good idea, it depends on how the conservatory has been built or upgraded,' continues Michael. 'A well-insulated, modern conservatory can make a bright, calm bedroom space. A basic or older one is better suited to occasional use, like a guest room, rather than somewhere you sleep every night. The key is to treat it less like a traditional conservatory and more like an extension – once you do that, it becomes much easier to make the space work.'

How to create a conservatory bedroom

So the idea is feasible – but how can you ensure project success? I asked the experts for their top tips.

1. Temperature regulation is key

Of all the potential conservatory design mistakes it is the failure to address their tendency to overheat in summer and become freezing cold in the winter that usually comes out on top. However, thanks to modern glazing innovations and better design, this no longer has to be the case. If you are adding a new structure, this is less likely to be a problem, but when modernising an old conservatory, addressing these issues should be a priority.

'One of the main considerations when using your conservatory as a bedroom is temperature,' picks up Terry Hill. 'Regular bedrooms retain more heat in thanks to thick insulation in the walls, whereas conservatories are largely glazed with less insulation. This means sleeping in the winter could be a little cold for some, but improving heating in the room can solve this issue.'

Addressing your conservatory heating isn't the only way to improve comfort levels in this room though, as Michael Arrowsmith explains.

'The structure itself matters. Older conservatories with polycarbonate roofs tend to struggle with temperature control, whereas modern glass or solid-roof systems are far better suited if you’re thinking about using the space as a bedroom year-round,' explains Michael.

2. Good ventilation matters more than ever in a bedroom conservatory

Ventilation is always important in a conservatory if you want it to be a fresh, pleasant place to spend time, but when you will be sleeping in the room too, it matters even more.

'Considering ventilation methods is so important,' says Terry Hill. 'Spending a lot of time in a conservatory sleeping without good ventilation could lead to all kinds of issues, including a build up of mould. Fitting an extractor fan and regularly opening windows can both help here.'

In terms of natural ventilation, one of the best ways to keep a conservatory cool in summer is to incorporate opening vents in both the side glazing as well as the roof. This allows cooler air to be drawn in lower down in the space, and the warmer air to be released through the top.

3. Increase the level of insulation for added comfort

Any space within the house will benefit from good insulation methods, but in a room that lacks solid walls and, due to its large expanses of glazing is prone to heat loss, it can be tricky to get this element right. There are two areas to focus on here – the conservatory roof and the wall that separates the conservatory from the house.

'Good insulation is essential, otherwise the room can become uncomfortable very quickly,' points out Michael Arrowsmith.

When it comes to the roof, you have a couple of options. One is to use specialist glass – systems are now available that promise to significantly reduce solar gain. The other is to replace a glass roof with a solid one. In all honesty, if you plan on using the space as a main bedroom, this really does make sense, not only in terms of thermal efficiency but also when it comes to ensuring light levels don't ruin a good night's sleep.

4. Find ways to keep the room feeling private

If there is one room in the house, other than the bathroom, that privacy matters, it has to be the bedroom. Whether you are getting changed or have a cheeky afternoon nap, the last thing you want is to feel on show.

'Privacy is a factor people sometimes overlook in conservatory bedrooms,' says Michael Arrowsmith. 'Frosted glass, layered blinds, or even planting outside the windows and privacy fences can all help soften the space without blocking natural light completely.'

'Conservatories offer panoramic views into your garden but this can also reduce your privacy, especially if a neighbouring property is facing it,' adds Beth Boulton, home improvement specialist and marketing director at Eurocell. 'Adding conservatory blinds and curtains may make you feel more comfortable and it also keeps your belongings out of view.'

5. Don't let the morning sun ruin your beauty sleep

One of the best things about conservatories is that fact that they receive tonnes of natural light throughout the day but, when it comes to using them as bedrooms, the early morning sun can be problematic – the last thing you want is to be woken up at the crack of dawn by glaring sunlight.

'Window coverings are key,' advises Michael Arrowsmith. 'You’ll need options that deal with both light and heat. Blackout blinds or thermal curtains help with sleep and privacy, while roof blinds can reduce glare and prevent overheating during the day. Without proper shading, the space can feel exposed and too bright early in the morning.'

'When it comes to dressing the windows in a conservatory bedroom, the key is to strike a balance between softness, privacy and light control, without losing the sense of openness that makes these spaces so special,' adds Debbie Leigh, design manager at ILIV. 'Layering is one of the most effective approaches. Combining practical blinds with beautifully made curtains allows you to adapt the space throughout the day, filtering harsh sunlight while still enjoying a gentle, diffused glow. In the evening, curtains can be drawn to create a more cocooned, restful feel, essential for a bedroom setting.

'Fabric choice plays a crucial role here and lightweight linens and softly textured weaves work particularly well, as they allow natural light to pass through,' continues Debbie. 'For added privacy, especially in overlooked spaces, consider pairing sheer fabrics with heavier curtains that can be closed when needed.'

Given that your window coverings are going to be in regular use if you plan on using the space as bedroom, consider using automated blinds that make it easier to control them, particularly those set at high level.

Shop conservatory window coverings

6. Give careful consideration to furniture layouts

Bedroom layout ideas are always important if you want the space to feel restful, but in a conservatory, the amount of glazing can be hard to navigate.

'From a layout perspective, it’s important to position the bed away from the most exposed glazing where possible, ideally anchoring it against a solid wall or beneath a section of roof with more structure,' advises Kate Palmer, creative director at The Painted Furniture Company. 'This helps create a sense of enclosure and makes the space feel more grounded and restful.

'Zoning can also be introduced through furniture placement, such as using pieces like painted wardrobes, shelving or freestanding screens to subtly divide the space without blocking light.'

'Built-in bedroom storage works well because conservatories don’t always have the wall space for bulky furniture,' adds Michael Arrowsmith. 'Keeping the layout simple usually gives the best result.'

'Furniture colour choice is crucial and soft, muted palettes work particularly well,' points out Kate Palmer. 'They help maintain a tranquil environment, while allowing the surrounding garden views to remain the focal point. Lighter tones also reflect natural light beautifully and prevent the space from feeling overly stark or exposed.'

7. Create an adaptable lighting scheme

When it comes to your conservatory bedroom lighting ideas, you not only need to think about how you will want your sleeping space to be lit, but also consider how artificial lighting reacts to all the glass in this type of structure.

'Designing a bedroom within a conservatory requires a slightly different approach to lighting because the space is surrounded by glass,' explains James Kendall, operations director at KES Lighting & Home. 'During the day, you benefit from wonderful natural light, but in the evening the room can quickly feel dark or flat if the lighting hasn’t been planned properly. The key is to create a layered lighting scheme that adds warmth and balance once the daylight fades.

'Treat the conservatory as you would any other bedroom and ensure there are multiple lighting circuits,' continues James. 'Having separate controls for ceiling lights, wall lights and lamps allows you to adjust the mood depending on how the space is being used. One of the biggest lighting mistakes people make is relying on a single overhead light. In a conservatory bedroom, it is far more effective to combine several types of lighting at different levels,' adds James. 'This might include wall lights to frame the space, floor or table lamps for softer ambient light, and a statement pendant or chandelier if the structure allows. Layering the lighting helps the room feel comfortable and inviting rather than overly bright or stark.

'With so much glazing, reflections can sometimes become an issue at night,' warns James. 'To avoid this, I would recommend incorporating low level lighting such as table lamps or subtle wall lights, which create a softer glow and minimise harsh reflections on the glass. These types of lights also help make the room feel more like a traditional bedroom space rather than a bright garden room. Directional lighting can also work very well in conservatories to highlight key features such as plants, artwork or textured walls, helping to add depth and interest to the room once natural light disappears.'

FAQs

What type of flooring is best in a conservatory bedroom?

Bedroom flooring needs to feel warm and soft underfoot, yet in a space accessed from the garden, such as a conservatory, consideration also needs to be given to how easy it is to maintain. The flooring in this room also needs to be able to withstand high light levels.

'Conservatories have improved significantly over the years, with better insulation, double or triple glazed windows and, in some cases, UV protection. As a result, many of the potential issues associated with flooring in these spaces have been reduced,' picks up Adam Robertson, managing director at Urbane Living. 'That said, one key consideration is the amount of UV light the room receives, as this can affect the colour of the flooring over time.

'Wood floors can be a wonderful interior design choice for conservatories as they help carry the natural character of timber through to the garden beyond,' continues Adam. 'They are also softer and warmer underfoot than stone flooring, which can make the space feel more comfortable and inviting. Different wood species will naturally change in colour as they age. American walnut, for example, tends to lighten over time, while American cherry will darken.

'It is also important to manage moisture levels,' adds Adam. 'Conservatories can sometimes experience condensation, which may increase humidity and potentially affect timber flooring if not properly controlled. Good ventilation can help prevent this. As conservatories often provide direct access to the garden, placing a door mat at the entrance is also a good idea to remove dirt and grit that could otherwise scratch or damage the floor.'

Designing a conservatory bedroom can be tricky but it can be done. Just like when considering whether a kitchen conservatory is a good idea, it is usually best to accept that you will have to make some significant adaptations and upgrades to the structure in order to make it work.

When we bought our higgledy-piggledy renovation project I had a giant list of the work the work needed. One of the list items was replacement windows for the 1970s extension, which actually makes up the majority of living spaces.

The windows were cracked single glazed units with a cottage style frame splitting the glass into tiny panes. Initially we had hoped that since this section was not the adjoining 1700s stone cottage we could get away with using high quality uPVC windows in a heritage style.

However, as our home is in a Conservation Area, we quickly found this wasn’t the case. And so began an almost eight month battle, which ended up with us having to go with a option that cost us almost three times as much. This is why.

What does it mean that our house is in a Conservation Area?

There are Conservation Areas up and down the country; they are special designated zones in areas of historic interest. The general gist is that these areas no longer have the usual rights to permitted development, which allows other houses to build extensions, replace windows, make alterations (within certain criteria) and so on without local authority approval.

In a Conservation Area, even minor changes to the front of a property, like changing windows or adding cladding, need planning permission from the local planning department. Although some homeowners chance it with the view that no one will find out or hope that they can seek retrospective planning permission, this can cause huge issues down the line and it is technically a criminal offence.

Fortunately my partner and I are absolute sticklers for the rules anyway, plus we may eventually need to leave the area, and so we were diligent in including as much as we could in our planning application to maximise our chances of approval.

Although we were both keen to renovate and maintain the timber windows of our 1700s stone cottage, our1970s extension single glazing was a prime target for improving our energy efficiency and comfort in the house.

We hoped that, as the extension itself was inappropriate for the area, uPVC replacement windows might be approved, especially if they were in a heritage style that suited the rest of the village (and we've spotted lots of other local homes that have uPVC windows, even in their stone cottages).

The heritage-style windows we were keen on included details that are not often included in more modern-looking uPVC windows, including an astragal bar (a decorative feature applied to the interior and exterior surfaces to give the appearance of divided panes of glass), textured wood effect, bevels. Plus they offer replication of original functions (such as sliding sashes), which help them feel more inkeeping with an older property.

Unfortunately, this was nearly immediately rejected by our local planning department. Our desired uPVC windows were definitely a no-go.

As a result we needed to research timber alternatives that would be a lot more acceptable to the planners.

‘Timber is preferred and in many cases required simply because traditional materials are more in keeping with the historic setting,’ explains Theo Jones, Director at Fynn Architects. ‘Conservation areas and listed buildings are protected precisely because of their character, and windows are one of the most visually prominent elements. It's nicer to look at and nicer to touch, and I believe it's worth paying a little extra for, regardless of whether you're in a conservation area or not.’

Sadly, these timber options were going to be significantly more expensive.

Why were the timber windows so much more expensive?

By their very nature wooden windows are always more expensive than uPVC due to the cost of the raw materials and craftmanship required. Fortunately, I had set aside a large chunk of money from the sale of our old house that we could use in case the application for uPVC replacement windows was rejected.

In terms of cost differences, our initial quote for uPVC heritage-style flush casement windows was £7,738 from a local company and £16,051 from a national brand (this also included three patio doors). When the planning officer insisted on timber for our replacement windows, the national brand quote shot up to £29,594, almost twice as expensive. Although the local heritage uPVC company didn’t offer timber, another local supplier provided a cost of the timber windows at £24,656. Our almost 8k had tripled to 24k. Not a position anyone wants to be in.

Even though that cost increase smarted at the time, I do accept that timber windows are a significantly better material for our home and that will (hopefully) last for another 100 years.

‘Although timber typically costs more when installed, wooden window frames significantly increase property resale value and save money in the long term due to their extended lifespan and energy savings, which usually offset the higher costs over time,’ comments Joe Buckley, Founder of Heritage Joinery.

How we coped with the increase in costs alongside our other renovations

After years as a journalist covering all aspects of self build and renovation, and an experienced renovator, I was well versed in local planning policy and my partner and I had anticipated that the uPVC windows may be rejected. But we were hopeful, considering we were surrounded by other homes (still in the Conservation Area) with new heritage uPVC windows.

Just in case, we had already sought quotes from our local joiners for timber windows so we had partially come to terms with the additional cost and what this could mean for the rest of our renovation budget.

For those in a similar boat, I would still advise trying to get permission for uPVC replacement windows, especially if the cost of timber is well out of your price range.

However, although they cost significantly more, to say I’m delighted with our timber windows is an understatement. Knowing they can be refurbished and repainted when the time comes to give them another few decades of life is really encouraging for the rest of our renovation works. Plus the process has definitely made us less short-sighted in terms of costs versus what is best for the house as a whole.

Over the past few decades the status of the kitchen has risen more and more and these days we are definitely at a point where this is, for many people, the most important room in the house. Far from being a purely practical space, today it is viewed as the beating heart of the home – the social spot, somewhere to work from home, a place to eat meals and relax as well, of course, in which to cook.

For this reason, the number of homeowners seeking out the best ways to a bigger kitchen is higher than ever – certainly, for me, achieving a bigger kitchen was one of the main drivers behind my own extension project. That said, while we built an extension in order to provide the extra space we required ten years ago, we are now planning round two of our extension, and this time we plan on remodelling the existing space instead to fit our current needs.

If you are planning a kitchen extension in a bid to expand your current space, you should first ask yourself, is an extension or remodel going to be the better option for you? Step forward this expert-led guide to help you make the right decision.

What’s the best way to a bigger kitchen?

If you are dreaming of a bigger kitchen, there are two main routes you can take – one is to work with what you have, rejigging its layout, perhaps opening it up to other spaces within your home, while the other is to build an extension, adding an entirely new element.

Both have their pros and cons and both will give you additional space. The best path for you may well be quite different to what will suit someone else and so sitting down and planning what you want from the new space, as well as looking at factors such as your budget, how long you plan on staying in your home and your future needs are hugely important.

' Ultimately, the best solution depends on your lifestyle, budget and long-term plans,' confirms Paul Dore, MD of County Stone Ltd. 'But you’d be surprised how much space you can unlock with the right layout and well-chosen finishes.'

Kitchen extension vs remodel – which is best?

There is no clear answer here but it is important to remember that while there are some truly inspiring kitchen extension ideas out there, an extension is not the only way to a bigger kitchen.

'The assumption is often that you need to extend to get a bigger kitchen, but that isn’t always the case,' stresses Emily Newmarch, design consultant at Kitchens by Holloways. 'The best starting point is to look at how your existing ground floor is arranged. We’ve worked on projects where simply reconfiguring the layout, removing internal walls, widening openings, or even relocating the kitchen to a larger room, has achieved the desired open-plan feel without adding a single square metre.

'An extension will, of course, give you additional space and often more natural light, particularly with side returns or rear glazing,' continues Emily. 'But it also comes with added cost, planning considerations and a longer construction programme. A remodel, particularly one involving structural alterations internally, can sometimes deliver a similar transformation in a more cost-effective way.'

Kitchen remodels

First lets take a look at kitchen remodels, a way of rearranging your existing spaces with the aim of creating a kitchen that is not just bigger but that also fits in better with the way you want to use it.

'Homeowners often assume that if they want a bigger kitchen, an extension is the only answer, but that isn’t always the case,' picks up Paul Dore. 'In our experience working with homeowners for many years, some of the most successful kitchen transformations come from a clever redesign, rather than adding square footage.

'A kitchen remodel is usually faster, less invasive, and far more budget-friendly than an extension,' continues Paul. 'With thoughtful design, a remodel can completely change how a kitchen feels and functions, even if the room size stays the same. If you’re remodelling, the key is making every centimetre work harder. Simple changes such as knocking through to another room, relocating appliances, or swapping bulky units for integrated storage can instantly open things up.

'We often see great results from things such as replacing traditional corner cupboards with pull-out storage, using floor-to-ceiling cabinetry to maximise vertical space, introducing kitchen island ideas or a peninsula that combines prep, storage and seating, and even simply choosing light-reflective surfaces that visually expand the room.'

Pros of kitchen remodels

• Cheaper than extensions
• Faster to carry out
• No planning permission required (unless you live in a listed property)

Kitchen extensions

Kitchen extensions have long been one of the most popular home upgrades out there – a way of not only increasing the size of what is now seen by many as the most important room of the house, but also giving it greater connection to the garden as well as bringing in additional natural light into previously gloomy spaces.

'A kitchen extension is ideal if you genuinely need more physical space – for example, to create an open-plan kitchen-diner or accommodate a growing family,' says Paul Dore. 'Extensions provide the space for dramatic layout changes, as well as adding features such as more natural light and better access to the garden to create that indoor-outdoor feel.

'However, they’re also incredibly disruptive and can be expensive, typically involving planning permission, structural work and longer build times,' continues Paul. 'We always encourage homeowners to explore remodelling first. A smart redesign combined with quality materials can completely transform a kitchen without the stress of major building works. If, after that, you find the space is still tight, then an extension becomes a worthwhile next step.'

Pros of kitchen extensions

• Can significantly increase space within a house
• Add value
• Allow for the introduction of architectural features such as full-height and ceiling glazing
• Work can be kept separate while carried out

Is an extension or remodel better for me?

In order to decide which path to take to achieve a bigger kitchen, you first need to get a firm idea of what it is you want from the new space.

'The first thing to consider is what you’re actually trying to achieve. Are you looking for a kitchen-dining space? A full kitchen-living-dining room? Do you want a walk-in pantry, utility or boot room incorporated into the layout? It’s important to design from the inside out and be clear about how you want the space to function before deciding how far you need to extend,' explains Emily Newmarch.

'Sometimes the answer is a combination of both – a modest extension paired with a full internal reconfiguration,' continues Emily. 'An extension doesn’t have to just be ‘adding a box on the back’ – it can be an opportunity to rethink the entire ground floor so the home works better as a whole.'

Is an extension or a remodel more cost effective?

One of the main deciding factors for many homeowners is cost – in short, how do remodel and kitchen extension costs compare?

'Remodelling is significantly cheaper than extending. A new kitchen will usually range from several thousand pounds upwards, depending on finishes. Extensions, on the other hand, typically start in the tens of thousands, depending on the size and the amount of building work needed,' explains Paul Dore.

'In pure construction terms, a remodel will generally be more cost-effective than building an extension, simply because you’re not adding new foundations, roofing, glazing and external structure,' agrees Emily Newmarch. 'However, the more important question is added value rather than cost.'

Does a remodel or extension add more value to a house?

Looking at how to add value to your home with the work you intend on carrying out is a great way to help you make a final decision between each of these two routes.

'In terms of property value, extensions can add more value because they increase overall square footage,' says Paul Dore. 'However, a beautifully designed kitchen remodel, especially one featuring high-end finishes, can deliver an excellent return on investment too (recent figures from Which suggest a new kitchen adds between 5% and 15% to the value of a home) by making the home far more attractive to buyers.'

'If a remodel achieves the space you need, then it’s usually the smarter financial decision,' advises Emily Newmarch. 'But if the property genuinely lacks the footprint required for modern family living, an extension can add long-term value and dramatically improve light, flow and connection to the garden.'

FAQs

Can changing a kitchen layout add space?

One of the simplest and most cost-effective ways of remodelling a kitchen is to change its current layout.

'Kitchen layouts are everything,' states Paul Dore. 'Galley kitchens can be incredibly efficient when designed properly, while L-shaped kitchens offer flexibility and good workflow in smaller rooms. For larger spaces, U-shaped layouts or islands offer generous prep areas and storage without feeling crowded.

'Ultimately, the most important thing is flow. A well-planned kitchen should allow you to move easily between cooking, cleaning and storage zones,' continues Paul. 'Designers often refer to this as the ‘working triangle’, but I always say not to be tied to that – a good kitchen design is one that works for you and how you live, not how others say it should be designed.'

Whether you are extending or renovating, one of the best ways to create a connection with outdoors and bring in more natural light to a kitchen is through the addition of new patio doors. Both bifold and sliding doors make it possible to open up the space (when the weather allows).

While the UK government might have scrapped plans to ban selling new gas boilers by 2035, the number of homeowners swapping their boilers for heat pumps is still on the rise thanks to the energy-bill slashing effect they can have on a home.

That said, for all their benefits, heat pumps might not always be the best solution for every household and, let's not forget that even when taking advantage of the government's boiler upgrade scheme, the cost of a heat pump is still pretty significant. I am currently mulling over the idea of installing one myself as part of the alterations we are planning on making to our home but am hesitant due to the fact that our old Edwardian cottage is pretty energy inefficient.

If, like me, you are still on the fence about whether a heat pump is right for your home, I am here to help. I asked some leading experts in the field to explain the questions you need to be asking before making this important decision – here's what they had to say.

Is a heat pump right for you?

This is a question I have been asking myself lately. We currently have an electric boiler for our heating and hot water as we live rurally with no gas connection. Our house is also pretty poorly insulated and draughty – in short, a lot of heat loss goes on here. For this reason, I kind of assumed a heat pump would be a bit of a waste – but is this really the case? Martyn Fowler, founder of Elite Renewables, says not.

'The first thing I’d say is that almost any home can have a heat pump if it’s designed properly. We’ve installed systems in everything from large country homes with huge footprints to compact Victorian terraces,' says Martyn. 'The difference is always in the design not the property type. The real question is, has your home been properly assessed?'

Given that my home has not, in fact, been assessed, I was really keen to find out what questions I should be asking before making a decision on this.

1. How well insulated is my home?

First up, it is important to look at how your home is currently performing in terms energy efficiency – and particularly at how well insulated it is.

'This is very important because heat pumps, especially air source heat pumps, work best when they're making heat at slightly lower temperatures, like 35°C to 55°C, for longer amounts of time,' explains Sean Hogan, founder of Aventus Eco. 'That lower-temperature heat will leave your home too fast if it isn't well sealed and has a lot of leaks, making it hard for the heat pump to keep the house warm. Your running costs will go up because of that battle, and you won't be as comfy either. That's why we always say: put up insulation first, then fit the heat pump.

'You should think about your loft insulation, those empty walls, your floor, and even draught proofing,' continues Sean. 'If you put money into good insulation up front, your home will need a lot less heat. This lets a smaller, more efficient heat pump work at its best, which keeps the costs of running it low. Putting in good insulation first is often a better use of money than trying to make up for it with a larger heat pump.'

'It’s a myth that your home has to be perfectly insulated for a heat pump to work. But if your home loses heat easily, you’ll need a bigger, more expensive heat pump, which can be louder, less comfortable and may not save you that much money,' points out Becky Lane, CEO of Furbnow. 'Heat pumps work best in homes with good insulation, usually with an EPC rating of a strong C or above.'

2. What heat emitters do I have at the moment?

Next up you need to assess the way you are currently heating your home and think about how your heat emitters – radiators, underfloor heating and so on – are going to get on with a heat pump.

'Because heat pumps run cooler, you need more surface area to get the same heat output,' explains Jack Allen, MD and founder at Building Energy Experts. 'Are your current radiators large enough? You may need to swap single-panel radiators for double or triple panels (K2 or K3 types) or install underfloor heating.'

'Your radiators need to be able to put out enough heat at those lower temperatures that heat pumps work at for them to really work,' picks up Sean Hogan. 'This usually means that your old radiators will need to be bigger than they would for a gas boiler, or you might need to get new, high-output models.

'Underfloor heating works well with low flow rates, which makes it a brilliant choice for a heat pump system,' continues Sean. 'This is a useful point because you may need to replace some or all of your radiators, which will naturally raise the cost of the work as a whole. A good contractor will always do a full room-by-room heat loss estimate to make sure that your new or old radiators are the right size for your heat pump system. We've found that existing, bigger radiators can work really well in some older UK homes.'

3. Do I have enough space for a heat pump?

This is a really important question to ask – heat pumps take up space and if you don't have anywhere to put one you are going to struggle. A great big heat pump stuck to the outside of a house rarely does anything to add kerb appeal and this has been something that has put me off the idea a little, although there are ways of hiding a heat pump.

'Air source heat pumps need a box outside that looks a bit like an air conditioner,' explains Sean Hogan. 'This unit needs to be put in a stable place with good airflow, preferably away from bedrooms to keep noise to a minimum (though modern units are very quiet these days), and there needs to be enough room for installation and future upkeep too.'

It isn't just outside of your house that you need to consider space requirements for either.

'Inside your home, you’ll usually need room for a hot water cylinder – about the size of a large fridge-freezer – often in an airing cupboard or utility room,' advises Becky Lane. 'You’ll also need pipework running from the heat pump to that cylinder, which can mean lifting floors or working behind kitchen units. In many Victorian and Edwardian homes, that can be quite disruptive for what might only be small savings. Get a home energy plan, so you can understand which steps and renovations are needed before you can actually turn on your heat pump.'

4. Will a heat pump save me money on energy bills?

For many people, the biggest factor that influences their decision when it comes to installing a heat pump is cost.

'Installation can range from around £8,000 to £15,000 depending on the property and what upgrades are needed,' says Martyn Fowler. 'The Boiler Upgrade Scheme currently provides £7,500 towards it. I always encourage homeowners to think long term. A properly installed heat pump gives you stable running costs and protection against future gas price volatility.'

'While the Boiler Upgrade Scheme can save you money, homeowners still need to think carefully about total costs. If your home isn’t well insulated you might need an oversized heat pump and also new radiators, a hot water cylinder and extensive pipework. That can mean paying £10,000 to £15,000 yourself,' points out Becky Lane. 'You need to think, over time, will the money you save on your energy bills cover the cost of installing a heat pump? In a poorly insulated home, it might not.

'With good insulation, space outside, and room indoors for a cylinder, you could save close to £400 a year, especially if you’re on a tariff with cheaper off-peak electricity,' adds Becky. 'The key is knowing whether your home is heat pump ready.'

There are a few providers who offer energy tariffs specifically designed for those with heat pumps, such as British Gas, E.On Next and Octopus, which can help to maximise any ongoing savings.

5. Will I be happy with a lower, slower heat source?

It is important to be aware that living with a heat pump is very different from living with a boiler – and you need to think about whether you are ready for the shift.

'Gas boilers are reactive – you turn them on, and the house gets hot quickly. Heat pumps are 'steady-state' meaning they work best when left running in the background to maintain a constant temperature,' explains Jack Allen. 'You need to ask yourself, is my lifestyle suited to constant heating, or do I need instant heat?'

In short, if you love the fact that your gas boiler allows you to flick a switch and enjoy instant heat from your radiators, it may take time to adjust to the slower, steadier warmth that a heat pump offers, although if you already have underfloor heating, you are likely to be used to this.

6. Is your pipework capable of handling a heat pump?

If you live in an older property or are carrying out the renovation of one, switching from a gas boiler to a heat pump can be more complex and along with insulation upgrades you will also need to consider your current distribution system.

'Do you have 'microbore' pipework? Many UK homes built in the 80s and 90s use these narrow 8mm or 10mm pipes,' explains Jack Allen. 'These can struggle with the higher flow rates a heat pump requires, potentially needing a full re-pipe which significantly increases installation costs.'

According to Martyn Fowler, you often won't know if your pipework is up to scratch until you have had your home properly assessed.

'You need a full heat loss calculation. That tells you how much heat your home actually needs on the coldest day of the year. Once you have that, you size the heat pump correctly and design the distribution system around it,' explains Martyn. 'That might mean upgrading some radiators, improving insulation in key areas, or adjusting pipework. When the system is designed properly, the performance follows.'

7. What are your long-term goals?

And, finally, you really need to think through your reasons for wanting to install a heat pump – basically, what are your expectations?

'It's worth asking yourself: what is my current energy consumption, and what are my long-term goals for energy saving and independence, as well as reducing my carbon footprint?' says Sean Hogan. 'Even though a heat pump may cost more up front than a regular boiler, it will save you a lot of money in the long run compared to fossil fuel heaters. At a time when fossil fuel prices are still very unstable and our power grid is becoming 'greener' this is even more important.

'It makes sense to get a heat pump if you want to become truly energy independent and lower your carbon footprint. You could even combine it with other renewable energy sources like solar PV and battery storage,' continues Sean. 'Figuring out why you're doing this is a big part of weighing the original cost against the long-term financial and environmental rewards.'

FAQs

Where might a heat pump not be a suitable option?

While all the experts agreed that heat pumps were a brilliant option for most types of home, there are cases where installing one just might not be worth it.

'While we are advocates for electrification, we often advise clients against heat pumps in the following scenarios until remedial works are done,' says Jack Allen.

• The 'leaky bucket' home: If you have solid walls with no insulation and single glazing, a heat pump will likely cost more to run than a gas boiler. You are effectively trying to fill a leaky bucket; you need to plug the holes (insulation/airtightness) before you change the tap (the heating system).
• Flats with no outdoor space: If you are in a flat with no outdoor space, finding a compliant location for the external unit can be impossible due to planning permission and noise distance regulations.
• Homes with microbore pipework: As mentioned above, if ripping up floors to replace 10mm piping is too disruptive or expensive, a high-temperature heat pump or a hybrid system might be the only viable option.

'In the end, the best way to know for sure if a heat pump is right for your home is to have an MCS-certified heat pump provider do a skilled, in-depth study and heat loss estimate,' concludes Sean Hogan. 'They can look at the unique features of your home and give you help that fits your needs, so you can make an informed choice.'

If you have come to the conclusion that a heat pump won't suit your home, don't be disheartened – there are many other types of heating systems out there to choose from.

Whether you already have a log burner, or are considering getting one, being up to date on the rules appliances like this is a good idea.

After all, there have been rumours of a woodburning stove ban doing the rounds, which can understandable make people nervous, especially if they have gone to the expense of having one installed in their home.

And woodburning stoves are in the news again, with reports of rule changes. So what's the truth and how could it impact you? This is what you need to know.

Have rules around log burners changed?

While log burners aren't going to be banned, and there is no significant rule change right now, future changes may be afoot as the Government focuses on improving air quality as part of its Environmental Improvement Plan 2025.

In its plan, the government states: 'Air quality in the UK has improved significantly in recent decades and overall, the air we breathe today is cleaner than at any time since before the industrial revolution. These improvements have delivered significant benefits for our health, environment and economy.

'However, despite these improvements, air pollution remains one of the biggest environmental threats to human health and continues to cause damage to the environment. Long-term exposure to air pollution can cause heart and lung disease, cancer and other health problems. Low-income communities disproportionately feel these health impacts, exacerbating health and social inequalities.'

In order to help combat this, the government has been consulting on how it can reduce harmful emissions from domestic burning.

The consultation sets out proposals to reduce emissions from domestic burning through three main avenues:

• Stricter emission limits for new stoves – introducing tougher smoke emission standards for new appliances
• Mandatory labelling for stoves and fuels – providing clear information on emissions, permitted fuels, and health impacts to help consumers make informed choices. 
• Increased enforcement penalties – raising penalties for suppliers who breach fuel standards to ensure compliance. 

'The government is focused on improving air quality and will consult this year on ways to cut emissions, recognising that some households rely on log burners,' says Barry Cope , CEO of HETAS.

What do the proposed changes mean for homeowners?

The good news is that these proposed changes, expected to come into force in 2027, won't need you to do anything differently. Instead the onus will largely be on log burner manufacturers and retailers.

If you don't yet have a log burner, but are thinking of buying one, then these proposed changes will mean it'll become easier to understand the emissions, and potential health impact, plus the fuels you are allowed to burn in each burner you look at.

Proposals as part of the government consultation want to tighten smoke emissions limits for new stoves from 5g/hr to 1g/hr (plus 0.1g per 0.3 kW heat output) for new stoves entering the market.

Industry testing data suggests that 70% of stoves tested since 2018 already meet this new standard, especially when Ecodesign rules state that wood burning stoves should emit no more than 3 grams of smoke per hour. 'Since 2022, wood burning stoves must be Ecodesign compliant, so all new stoves now meet strict UK and EU standards for cleaner burning and lower emissions,' says Phil Wood, UK Managing Director of Swedish stove manufacturer, Contura.

For those who already have a log burner, and are worried that it won't meet new guidelines, then fear not. There are no plans to force people to rip out existing log burners in their homes.

However, with cleaner burning, and therefore healthier, appliances available, you may choose to upgrade to a safer model with lower emissions.

To avoid smoke emissions altogether, you could opt for this electric heater that looks just like a log burner.

As one of the rooms people tend to spend the most time in, whether that is to carry out the practical tasks of food prep and cooking meals, or to gather together with family and friends, the kitchen is often the beating heart of any home. And of all the home upgrades out there, kitchen extensions are amongst the most popular. Little wonder then that homeowners are usually so keen to maximise the space in this all-important room.

That said, whatever your kitchen extension ideas might entail, adding this kind of space is usually a significant undertaking that causes a fair amount of disruption to everyday life, not to mention the costs involved. For this reason, it is vital that you design the space with longevity in mind. Not just in terms of how well it will physically endure daily use, but also in how its design will withstand the passage of time.

The good news is that you don't have to stick to a totally classic design to avoid your kitchen extension looking dated a few years down the line – with our expert advice you can achieve a space that is both modern and timeless.

1. Plan the kitchen in unison with the extension

When it comes to kitchen design there is a huge amount of forward planning required in order to ensure the end result is everything you hoped it would be – from units and layouts to the finer details such as electrical sockets, each and every detail matters. When you are also building an extension, these design decisions basically get doubled and the key to success, according to Emily Newmarch, design consultant at Kitchens by Holloways, is to approach the two elements as one.

'Creating a kitchen extension that feels modern yet timeless starts with careful planning from the inside out,' says Emily. 'The first step is defining what you actually want the space to achieve, whether that’s an open-plan kitchen-dining-living area, room for a a walk-in pantry or utility, or simply better flow across the ground floor. It’s very easy to design an extension that looks impressive on paper but doesn’t suit your budget or the way you live.

'We always look at layout first, in some cases, reconfiguring the existing footprint can achieve the desired result without extending at all,' adds Emily. 'Designing the kitchen and the architectural shell in parallel ensures ceiling heights, glazing and structural elements properly support the cabinetry layout and furniture placement.'

2. Design a space in-keeping with your house

For your kitchen extension to bridge the gap between modern and timeless, you need to find a design that blends in seamlessly with the rest of your home.

'To achieve a balance between contemporary and timeless, the extension should complement the character of the original property,' advises Emily Newmarch. 'Period homes may suit pitched roofs or orangery-style detailing, while more modern properties lend themselves to flatter rooflines, cleaner geometry and slimline glazing.

'Large-format sliding doors, skylights in side returns and well-considered proportions help create light-filled spaces that feel current but not trend-led.'

3. Prioritise functionality over the latest trends

For any kitchen extension to stand the test of time and remain an asset for the foreseeable future, you need to start with the basic principals of how you plan on using the space and build your modern kitchen ideas out from there.

'It might seem obvious, but one of the first things to consider when undertaking a kitchen extension is how are you going to use the space and what you hope to gain from it, ensuring your choices focus on lasting functionality and timeless design rather than short lived trends,' explains Al Bruce, founder of Olive & Barr.

'Maybe you need more general living space for your growing family, or perhaps you are a keen cook who requires a dedicated area to entertain – or, is gardening your passion and you would love to create more of a connection between indoors and outdoors?' continues Al. 'By breaking down your ideas you can begin to create a non-negotiables list, prioritising key items that your new extension needs to include. This might be a boot room, a large kitchen island or bi-fold doors to create a light-flooded living space, all of which offer practical benefits that remain relevant over time.'

4. Choose a layout that makes life easier

Your kitchen extension layout needs to be designed not only to tie in with your existing kitchen space, but, if you want it to stand the test of time, to make everyday life run smoother.

'When designing a kitchen, consider the process of cooking,' advises interior designer Augustine Atobatele of Studio Augustine. 'First you take food out of the fridge, then you might clean produce, cook, bake, return to refrigerate it. Depending on the size of the kitchen there should be minimal steps between each activity.'

'We always say, investing in the bones of the kitchen – the layout, cabinetry and worktops – and treating decorative details as the changeable layer is the key to a timeless kitchen,' adds Paul Dore, MD of County Stone Ltd. 'By thinking about it that way, your kitchen extension feels current now, but can be just as relevant in ten or fifteen years’ time.'

5. Opt for quality materials, fittings and finishes

Just because you might want to incorporate some of the latest kitchen trends into your extension design, it doesn't mean you have to compromise on quality and it is this focus on using top-notch features and finishes that will ensure your new space feels as current in the future as it does on completion.

'Internally, opting for high-quality materials such as natural timber, stone worktops and durable flooring, alongside cabinetry styles that reflect the home’s architecture will ensure the space remains elegant and relevant for years to come,' advises Emily Newmarch.

'When it comes to materials, we always advise choosing surfaces that have stood the test of time,' picks up Paul Dore. 'Natural stone and neutral palettes, for example, have been used in kitchens for generations because they age well and work with ever-changing styles. You can update bar stools, paint colours and accessories as trends shift, but the foundations should always feel solid.'

6. Choose cabinets that can be updated if needed

While we're not suggesting you have to play it totally safe with your choice of kitchen cabinets, it does pay to think about how they will look in a few years – they make up a large part of new kitchen costs after all.

'Cabinetry quality should never be compromised,' states Paul Dore. 'Well-made, solid wood cabinets will last decades and can be repainted or updated with new hardware as tastes evolve. While these are more pricey, it is worth the investment if your budget allows.'

A Shaker-style cabinet is hard to beat in terms of timelessness – for an updated look on this classic, opt for an in-frame design or look at slim Shaker kitchen cabinets, then simply pair them with modern handles and knobs in a brushed metallic finish and perhaps intersperse solid cabinet doors with some fluted glass fronts.

7. Never leave lighting as an afterthought

Your kitchen lighting ideas need to be planned in from the off – never as an afterthought.

'Lighting has a profound influence on both the aesthetic and functional qualities of our interiors, making it an important decision during the design process of a kitchen extension,' explains Massimo Buster Minale, founder and creative director of Buster + Punch. 'A thoughtfully structured, layered lighting approach, integrating ambient, task and accent lighting, can define the atmosphere, guiding how each zone is experienced, while ensuring the space remains adaptable and timeless.'

'To achieve a timeless style that feels both modern and stylish, look for ways to add texture and a sense of story, rather than at fleeting trends,' picks up Tom Raffield, founder of Tom Raffield. 'Real wood and organic shapes add a sense of depth and interest into the space, while sculptured lighting adds drama and a focal point.'

8. View flooring as a subtle backdrop

Your kitchen flooring ideas will play an important role, not just in practical terms but also in the way that they form a backdrop for the entire space. If you want a timeless yet modern look it is best to steer clear of trend-led bold patterns and opt instead for something more subtle.

'One of the things I love to do at the moment is introduce a subtle tile border in colour around the edge of the room,' reveals Camilla Masi, interior designer at Otto Tiles & Design. 'It allows you to bring in character while keeping the main floor calm, and it helps the extension feel anchored within the home rather than like a completely new addition.'

'Choosing a herringbone wood floor for your kitchen extension will never tire; it’s timeless yet design-led look moulds itself perfectly into any home, from period cottages to sleek modern properties,' points out Natalie Mudd, creative director and founder of Knot & Grain.

FAQs

What features that should be avoided if you don’t want your kitchen extension to date too quickly?

It is all too easy to get seduced by the latest home decor trends when kitting out a kitchen extension and while not all of the latest fashions will date quickly, there are certain features to avoid if you don't want to be remodeling again any time soon.

'Features that can date more quickly tend to be those chosen purely for impact such as very bold or novelty colours used across large areas, strong patterns that dominate the room, or finishes that don’t relate to the rest of the house,' says Camilla Masi. 'Kitchens are long-term spaces, and also big investments – materials with texture, variation, and a sense of permanence tend to age much more gracefully.'

'Gloss cabinets are one to avoid if you are looking for that timeless feel,' adds Paul Dore. 'High gloss was popular a couple of years back, but now, these kitchens can feel a little dated. And while they may come back into fashion, these overly 'trendy' styles will always feel of a particular time.'

Colour is where you can get a little creative in the kitchen, an easy and affordable way to update and refresh the space. That said, sticking to timeless kitchen colours will mean you won't find yourself having to redecorate prematurely for your kitchen to remain looking fresh and modern.

Pivot doors can be a great alternative to traditional side-hung doors that you normally see at front and back entryways.

They may exude elegance but they’re actually a fairly simple mechanism that can instantly improve your home's connection to the outside world, while also adding some real wow-factor to your home's appearance. Plus they can be a great alternative to bifold doors.

But what do they cost, do they need an oversized opening or specialist installation, and are they suitable for to swap out when replacing any front door? I asked the experts to help you decide if this could be a stylish option for your home.

What actually is a pivot door?

Unlike standard doors that open using a side hinge, pivot mechanisms are set further into the door span at the top and bottom of the frame to support a large weight and size of leaf. They can be chosen to open either internally or externally, depending on your space availability and when opened there is a small gap to the side of the pivot, in addition to the usual walkable space.

High-end architects and designers began to utilise the grace and simplicity of pivot doors in domestic homes to add an extra wow-factor around a decade ago. 'In the past pivot hinges were used for very heavy doors and may still be needed for very very oversized doors but now most doors suitable for residential use can be either pivot or hinged,' explains Elizabeth Asaf, Designer at Urban Front. 'Pivot doors are also being used internally, too, to create a stylish divide between spaces.'

What are the pros and cons of pivot doors?

While pivot doors perform much of the same function as a regular side-hung door, they do offer some aesthetic and practical benefits.

First, their design means they can often bear the weight of a wide, heavier door, which might suit certain house styles better than others. Many contemporary, industrial or barn-style house designs use pivot doors to create a statement entryway.

When used at the rear of a house in place of a patio door, sightlines can be reduced which helps to create highly-desirable uninterrupted views of the garden,

However, this style of door can be more expensive than a side-hung door, although as they are becoming a more mainstream option this price is gradually reducing.

Pivot doors also require larger openings than side-hung doors to accommodate the same size of passageway when open. 'We get asked a lot for pivot doors to fit into openings which are too small,' comments Elizabeth Assaf. 'The best part of a pivot door is the way it opens but due to this the walkthrough is reduced and therefore the opening should be over 1.2m wide. If the outside area doesn't have enough space for the door to swing open into then that could be a restriction too.'

How to buy a pivot door

If you’ve got the space and it fits your style, you can buy pivot doors from most high-end door manufacturers, but they haven’t yet filtered down into the more high street retailers. Additionally, they’re generally only available in timber or aluminium so if you’re looking for a uPVC door they might not be for you.

In terms of cost, as these doors are usually made bespoke or at least with specialist installation, you’re looking at a higher price than if you were to buy a side-hung door. 'At Urban Front our pivot doors start from £6019 + VAT for a RAL painted door,' says Elizabeth Assaf, 'I believe it may be possible to buy good quality pivot doors in aluminium from about £4000.'

How are pivot doors installed?

If you do decide that a pivot door is the right option for your home, then you will need to understand how the installation process works. Installing a pivot door is a little more specialist than a traditional door and will require additional attention to detail in specification before the doors arrive on site.

Firstly, it is advised to have an opening clearance space of at least 1.2m, but ideally more to ensure a comfortable entryway that can also be accessible by wheelchair users.

If you are building an extension, then this could be easily incorporated into the design plan, but if you are remodelling an existing door opening, then there will be additional building work required to expand the original aperture.

The structure around the doorframe might need to be reinforced if the door leaf is particularly oversized and, as pivot doors tend to have a completely level threshold, the drainage immediately outside the doorway may need to be improved to avoid water ingress.

FAQs

Can you have a pivot door as a front door?

You can certainly install a pivot door as a front door. In fact, they create an immediate impact and kerb appeal upon opening which suits modern-styled homes. Pivot front doors are usually designed with an oversized pull bar handle that drops the length of the leaf to give extra purchase if the door is particularly oversized.

How long should a pivot door last?

A pivot door should last just as long as any well-made, good quality door - anything upwards of 25 years and ideally 40+. Pivot doors are normally made of aluminium which has a much longer lifespan than uPVC, but they can also be made using timber, which will last even longer, so long as it is properly maintained (through sanding and painting/weatherproofing every few years).

If you're still undecided about installing a pivot door at your home, then make sure you also weigh up whether bifold or sliding doors might be a more suitable option instead.

It is often the original features that draw people to older properties, lending them character and charm that can be lacking in modern houses. Windows, in particular, are one of those elements of any home that will make or break its kerb appeal – all too often, original windows get replaced or updated in a totally unsympathetic way.

Many people don't realise that it isn't just the frame style and material that contributes to the look of a window, but the types of glazing used within them too. It is understandable to want to select glazing that will reduce heat loss, but when it comes to older windows, homeowners can find it hard to pinpoint the right solution.

If you are considering double glazing old windows but are unsure how this will affect their appearance – or if it is even possible – this guide is for you guide. As an experienced renovator and owner of an old house myself, I explain the pros and cons of making this upgrade and what the job entails.

Can you double glaze old windows?

If you are living in or renovating a period property that has its original windows in place, they may well be fitted with single glazing. While this type of glazing has a certain beauty about it, with its slight imperfections and rippling, it is not always the most comfortable to live with.

'Single glazing is one of the biggest sources of heat loss in homes,' reveals Becky Lane, CEO of home energy upgrade company Furbnow.

Terry Hill, MD at KLG Rutland, shares some other benefits of replacement glazing. 'Upgrading your period home’s windows and doors with modern replacements brings a host of long-term benefits including, improved energy efficiency, better security, reduced maintenance and possibly noise reduction,' he says.

While you can, in theory, fit double glazing into some older windows, is upgrading from single to double glazing always such a good idea?

'Sometimes the frames simply cannot handle it as many older timber sash and casement windows were not designed to withstand the weight or thickness of modern sealed systems,' warns Andrew Haydon, director at Simply Plastics.

Will double glazing old windows ruin their character?

Even if, after investigating whether or not the frames of your old windows are up to the job of carrying the weight of double glazing (something a skilled joiner should be able to advise you on) you find you can go ahead with the task, there is still the small matter of appearance. In short, will switching out your single glazing for double in a bid to make an old house warmer spoil the look of your windows?

'Double glazing older types of windows does make sense in some homes, but it may not always be the best option, particularly if the original joinery and detailing are still present and if the window proportions, glazing bars, and traditional putty lines are contributing to both the exterior and interior of the property,' explains Andrew Haydon.

'Retrofitting double glazing can disrupt glazing bars, sightlines, and frame proportions, which often takes away from the original appearance, especially where fine details are part of a window’s character rather than decoration alone.'

What are the alternatives to double glazing for older homes?

If your windows are not suitable for double glazing, or you have come to the conclusion that adding double glazed units would ruin their character, you still have options that can help keep your house feel warmer and reduce your energy bills.

'A better alternative in these cases is secondary glazing, which allows you to keep the original window precisely as it is,' says Andrew Haydon. 'This method works by installing a separate pane on the internal side of the existing window, often fitted into its own narrow frame.

'When installed internally, secondary glazing keeps the original window intact and fully functional for ventilation, cleaning, and later repairs,' continues Andrew. 'This allows you to perform routine maintenance without interruption, remove panels during the warmer months if necessary, and still reach the original glass without the need for specialised tools. It also helps reduce draughts, which in turn limits heat loss and lowers energy use by preventing heating systems from working harder than necessary – in fact, it can even enhance daily comfort to a level that is comparable to double glazing.

'And, finally, because of the larger air gap between panes, sound control is improved so it’s also frequently used in residences close to busy roads, train lines, or town centres. When combined with draught-proofing and some basic repairs, rooms will feel warmer, quieter, and have less condensation without replacing or ruining windows that still have many years of use left.'

Is it better to replace old windows rather than upgrade the glazing?

There are cases where original windows will just be in too bad a condition to make restoration a viable option. In these cases replacement windows will be needed but this should only really be a last resort and needs to be done with great care – changing windows can, in some cases, totally strip a period house of its character. This will also usually be a more expensive route.

That said, if you take the time to research the options and find a joiner who can match the originals, replacement doesn't have to be a disaster.

'Replacing windows or doors in a period property doesn’t mean losing its soul,' reassures Terry Hill. 'With a sympathetic design such as heritage ranges, flush sash or modernised vertical sliding windows and professional installation, you can preserve your home’s historic charm and character while enjoying the comfort, efficiency and security of modern living.’

FAQs

Do you need planning permission to double glaze old windows?

Whether or not you will require planning permission to upgrade your windows very much depends on your house and the area you live in. In many cases, there will be no need to apply.

However, if you live in a listed building, you will almost certainly require listed building consent in order to make any changes. Additionally, if your house is located in a conservation area, you may also need to seek permission.

'If your home is listed or within a conservation area, certain restrictions may apply to how windows and doors can be replaced,' explains Terry Hill. 'Reputable installers should work closely with homeowners, local authorities and heritage officers to ensure compliance with conservation area regulations, listed building consent and building regulations for energy efficiency, ventilation and safety.'

'If you have a Victorian or period home these often have architectural features protected by heritage conservation rules,' picks up Becky Lane. 'You will need to work with conservation officers and heritage experts to choose a solution that preserves the character of the house – and consider reversible techniques that can be easily undone if necessary.'

If your home already has double glazed windows, or you are adding an extension, you might well be looking into double vs triple glazing. It is well worth checking out the pros and cons of each before making a decision as, in certain cases, making what can be an expensive swap won't be worth it.

According to the Met Office, the UK has had an 'exceptionally wet' start to the year, with some locations seeing 40 consecutive days of wet weather.

While this can feel pretty miserable, this heavy rainfall can also wreak havoc with our homes, highlighting any vulnerabilities in the property's shell, leading to signs of leaks and water ingress. Left unchecked, this can lead to long term issues of damp and condensation that can be costly and time consuming to resolve.

That's why it's important check for signs of water entering your home during periods of heavy rain so that the issue can be rectified before too much damage is done. I asked the pros about the kind of damage heavy rain can cause, the signs you should look out for, as well as why your roof might have started leaking.

What kind of damage can heavy rain cause to a property?

'Heavy rain rarely causes problems on its own,' explains Sam Fitzgerald, founder of the Federation of Damp. 'What it usually does is expose weaknesses that were already there. This could be a small defect in roof coverings, blocked or overflowing gutters, failed seals around windows, or underlying ventilation issues inside the home.'

Extreme rainfall will also test your home's water resilience, revealing vulnerabilities in roofing, walls, and foundations says architectural designer and owner of Online Drawing UK, Chris Lawson: 'Saturated soil can push against basement walls, resulting in seepage or cracks. Poorly maintained brickwork and pointing can allow moisture to penetrate, leading to internal damp and plaster damage.

'Windows, doors, and external joinery are also susceptible, particularly if seals have degraded over time. Repeated exposure to water can weaken timber elements and promote the growth of mould and mildew. Beyond visible damage, water can undermine insulation and electrical systems, creating both comfort and safety hazards.'

This damage can be extensive so it's crucial that you keep your eyes peeled for early warning signs so that you can tackle them before they get too bad.

What are the warning signs of water ingress?

There are a few tell-tale signs that you should look out for, both inside and out, during and after heavy rain that will give you an indication that something untoward is going on.

Inside

• Brown water stains on ceilings and walls
• Peeling paint or wallpaper
• Pooling water on window sills and around skirting boards
• Unusual musty smells
• Sudden onset of condensation

'After heavy rainfall, homeowners should look out for water marks on ceilings or walls, drips, musty smells or a sudden increase in condensation,' says Sam. 'These are often signs of an issue that has been developing quietly over time and needs proper investigation, rather than a quick cosmetic fix.'

Outside

• Sagging guttering
• Persistent drips after the rain has stopped
• Dark patches on brickwork
• Green algae on your home's exterior walls

How to fix damage caused by heavy rain

'Solutions vary depending on severity: patching and resealing small leaks may suffice, while more extensive damp may require re-plastering with damp-resistant materials or installing proper drainage channels,' advises Chris. 'Monitoring these areas immediately after heavy rain allows homeowners to act before the problem escalates.'

While some issues may be easily resolved on a DIY basis, such as failing sealant around a window frame, water marks on the ceiling (once the source of the leak has been found and rectified) or clearing out gutters, other issues, like fixing damaged roof tiles or replacing soggy loft insulation are best left to the professionals.

You could also try Nancy Birtwhistle’s hack to get rid of water marks on walls too.

Why does my roof leak after heavy rain?

In many instances, signs off water ingress in your home will stem from an issue with your roof, so regular roof maintenance is key to keep problems at bay.

'During periods of heavy rain, your roof will be right in the firing line - so it’s here that problems tend to crop up first,' says Phil Spencer, property expert and founder of the property advice website Move iQ. 'Whether the sheer volume of water falling onto the roof causes a brand new leak or just worsens an existing leak isn’t really the issue. What matters is the damage it does.

'Whenever rainwater gets into your home, whether that’s the attic or the living areas, it can cause a range of problems from peeling paint to damp, rot and mould. Over time, periods of heavy rain can also worsen existing problems like subsidence, which tends to happen when soil repeatedly gets wet and dries out.'

But it's not just the roof tiles that could be the culprit. 'Blocked gutters can also play a big role,' says James Ginley, Director of Technical Surveying at e.surv. 'When water can’t drain properly, it can back up under roof coverings or overflow down walls, creating leaks that may appear long after the initial rainfall has passed.'

'It’s quite common for older buildings to develop roof issues, ' explains Phil. 'Materials like felt and tiles slowly degrade over time, and water has a way of finding its way into any cracks or weak spots. However leaks can crop up suddenly if you lose a roof tile in a storm or repairs are done with the wrong materials.

'If you see any evidence of a leak, don’t delay. Find a local tradesperson who has experience of working on similar properties, and ask them to assess and fix the problem quickly.'

Fortunately, it's doesn't necessarily mean you'll need to replace your roof in order to solve the problem of water ingress. 'A leak in itself is not a disaster, but if you don’t deal with it promptly it can cause structural issues that may reduce the value of your home. The fix depends on the cause; it could mean replacing tiles, fixing gutters, or addressing drainage issues.'

FAQs

What should you do if you find a leak in your roof?

If you do happen to notice a leak from your roof, there are steps you can take to minimise the risk of further damage while you wait for a professional.

• Move any belongings out of the way. However, if the water is leaking on to insulation, don't move it without wearing the correct PPE otherwise it could be very hazardous to your health.
• Try to contain the water, if possible. Buckets, saucepans, Tupperware, whatever you can get your hands on will help limit the impact of the leak.
• Get photographic evidence. 'Document what you can with images or video in case you need them for an insurance claim and can also help a tradesperson diagnose the issue,' advises Alex Peters, a cost guide expert at Checkatrade.

Should you discover a lot of water damage, it's worthwhile checking whether a leak will be covered by your home insurance and whether you insurer can help you cover the cost of repairs.

We might still be in winter, but if your home has suffered with overheating during the summer, and you want to avoid it happening again this year, you'll need to find a suitable solution now.

Upgrading glazing can be one of the most expensive improvements you might make on your house. But it can also be the most worthwhile when it comes to your home's comfort levels, especially in the summer months. And so understanding the different types of glazing now available on the market will enable you to get the best product for your budget.

Whether you are thinking of adding large picture windows, a bank of new patio doors or a glass extension to your home, or are looking for a permanent solution to keep your home cool in summer, I’ve asked the experts for everything you need to know about solar control glass.

What is solar control glass and how does it work?

Solar control glass is simply a window that has a special coating that reduces the amount of solar radiation that is able to penetrate into the building. Essentially it works to keep spaces with large swathes of glazing to a comfortable temperature during warmer weather.

'Solar control glass features an advanced, microscopically thin coating on the inner face of the outer pane of glass that makes up a double or triple glazed unit,' explains Charlotte Gilbert from Morley Glass. 'This coating is composed using metallic elements which enable it to reflect and filter heat and sunlight (solar infrared radiation), reducing the amount that transmits through the glass.'

'In simple terms, it limits how much of the sun’s energy enters the room; this helps spaces stay bright without overheating, especially on large south or west-facing glazing,' adds Charles Lowe from IQ Glass.

'Solar gain is often regarded as extremely beneficial and it is considered in the calculations for the energy ratings of windows and doors as it is effectively ‘free’ passive energy provided by the sun, thus helping to keep our homes warmer naturally at cooler times of the year, lessening the demand on heating,' continues Charlotte Gilbert.

'However, it can contribute to overheating in summer. That can be a major problem, not only to our health and wellbeing, but because many people facing this issue may choose to install energy-demanding air conditioning systems to mitigate the effects – a trend that is seriously counterproductive in terms of the UK’s goal to reduce carbon emissions and combat climate change.'

Is solar control glass the same as low-E glass?

Although they might sound similar, low-E and solar control are different types of glazing. Charles Lowe advises: 'Low E glass is primarily designed to improve insulation by reflecting internal heat back into the room; this reduces heat loss in colder months. Solar control glass focuses on managing heat coming into the home from the sun; many modern specifications can combine both functions in one high-performance glazing build-up.'

Where can you use solar control glass?

Solar control glass could be installed in every window in a house, if you wanted, but due to the increase in cost, many choose to be selective and deliberate in their application of the special coating, such as on a glass extension or conservatory, large picture windows or patio doors. It might also be a worthwhile consideration if you are building an extension and want to add a roof window.

As solar control glass reduces overheating, it is best practice to determine which windows face south or west. These windows will receive the most sun throughout the day and heat the inside of your home as a result, and so will be the best for a solar control glass upgrade.

'It is most worthwhile where there are large areas of glazing, strong sun exposure, or rooms that regularly overheat; for example south or west-facing elevations, roof glazing and glazed extensions,' Charles Lowe comments. 'For smaller windows or shaded façades, the benefit can be less noticeable; it is often specified strategically rather than everywhere, balancing solar control with daylight levels and ventilation.'

'Any window or door exposed to prolonged sunshine is suitable for solar control glass, but this type of glass really comes into its element where you have elevations with large areas of glazing such as bi-fold doors, sliding doors or French doors,' adds Charlotte Gilbert. 'Think of a greenhouse – the more glass you have, the more solar gain possible, which is why it often needs to be controlled to maintain a stable climate in the home. So, for example, if you have a large span of bi-fold doors facing south west, solar control glass should be regarded not as a luxury but essential, representing an excellent investment in the long term.

'In windows and doors not exposed to strong sunlight, such as those which are north facing or shaded by trees or neighbouring buildings, it may be more appropriate to use standard low-E glass rather than solar control products. This is because excessive solar gain is unlikely to be an issue in these situations.'

What are the pros and cons of solar control glass?

As solar control glass is a specialist coating, the inclusion does often come at a higher price. While it’s very case-dependent in terms of how much it will cost, higher quality and better performance solar control glass will naturally come at a premium.

Also, some people don’t love the slight tint you do find with additional coatings on windows as well as the reduction in sunlight that does transmit into their interiors so might avoid using it for aesthetic purposes.

You might also be restricted as to which glazing supplier will be best suited to your windows upgrade

'The benefits of solar control glass for homes subjected to strong sunlight are clear,' explains Charlotte Gilbert. 'Its ability to help reduce the risk of overheating in the summer means less reliance on fans and air conditioners to cool down the home. That is energy-saving, thus contributing to a home that is more energy efficient and lower carbon, but it also means that the whole house is comfortable and usable all year round.

'But the benefits of solar control glass are not restricted to warmer, sunnier times of the year. The coating is dual purpose as it also insulates the home during winter, helping to stop heat loss through the double or triple glazed unit. That means there is little or no extra heating demand compared to standard low-E glass.'

Is solar control glass worth it?

The case for solar control glass is extremely persuasive, especially given what we know about our summers now and into the future getting warmer and higher in UV rays.

While it may not be worth the cost for every windows of every house, carefully considering it and weighing up the costs for any large swathes of glazing you might have will make your home more comfortable to live in year round.

'Costs vary depending on pane size, performance targets and the overall glazing system; solar control is typically a premium upgrade compared with standard double or triple glazing due to the additional coating technology,' says Charles Lowe. 'It is best priced as part of the complete glazing package because frame choice, safety requirements, spacer specification and installation detailing all affect the final figure.'

If you are after a budget-friendly alternative, you can buy a DIY film and install it yourself, but it can be a little fiddly to achieve a smooth result.

FAQs

Is solar control glass clear?

Unfortunately, solar control glass does generally have a slight tint to it, but it has been significantly clarified in the last decade or so. While this might not suit every aesthetic choice, many manufacturers these days so enable homeowners to adjust the tint and amount of solar radiation transmitted through the glass, giving close control over the end product.

However, a benefit of this tint could provide privacy to overlooked houses that would like to install bifold or sliding doors.

When done well, an extension project can not only transform the way you live in your home, but also enhance how it looks, as well as adding to its overall value. However, a bad extension is another matter entirely.

Bad extensions range from those that were poorly constructed at the time they were built – such as the single-skin brickwork kitchen lean-to, complete with corrugated plastic roof, affixed to my own house when we moved in – to those that feature a number of design faults, as well as structures that just haven't stood the test of time.

If you are considering building an extension to replace an existing structure that is currently just not doing justice to your home, be sure to check out this expert advice first – it might just be that there are alterations you can make instead that could save you money while still giving you the new space you crave.

What is a bad extension?

If the term 'bad extension' seems a little vague, that's probably because it is – there are all kinds of factors that go into determining the success (or failure) of an extension. Sometimes you will be putting other people's extension mistakes right, while in other cases time will have taken its toll on a structure.

'A bad extension is typically one that shows poor workmanship, inappropriate materials, or a lack of integration with the original house,' explains Costel Radescu, founder and CEO of CR Group. 'Common issues include inadequate insulation, cold bridging, poor ventilation, damp ingress due to faulty detailing, or mismatched floor levels and roof lines.

'Additionally, non-compliance with UK Building Regulations or a lack of sign-off from Building Control is a major red flag,' continues Costel. 'Structurally, shallow foundations, undersized supporting beams, or incorrect load paths can also render an extension problematic and potentially unsafe.'

'We see common patterns,' reveals Ran Ankory, founder and managing director of Scenario Architecture. 'Extensions that steal daylight from the original rooms and leave the rest of the ground floor feeling dark. Extensions that create a bottleneck between the kitchen and garden instead of harmoniously connecting the two. Or, worse, extensions where glazing has been added without a thorough insulation strategy, leaving you with glare, overheating, drafts or condensation.'

'In our experience the worst extensions were built during the 1980s up to 2000 when the building regulations were not so stringent,' picks up Zaeem Chaudhary director and Chartered Architectural Technologist (MCIAT) at AC Design Solutions.

Should you replace a bad extension?

Whether you have just bought a new house featuring an extension that is letting the whole thing down, or have been living with a poorly constructed addition for some time, is replacement something you should be considering, as opposed to repairing or improving what you have? Much of this decision should be based on just how bad this extension is, according to the experts.

'You should consider replacing an extension when its fundamental structure and performance are working against you,' explains Ran Ankory. 'If there are persistent issues such as damp, recurring leaks, movement, poor foundations, very low ceiling heights, or a roof form that cannot be upgraded without major rebuild, an update can become a cycle of expensive sticking plasters.

'We also advise replacement when the extension is fundamentally the wrong shape for the home,' continues Ran. 'If it creates awkward circulation, blocks natural light to the original house, or wastes floor area with narrow corridors and dead corners, you can spend a lot on finishes and still be left with a space that doesn’t work for your daily life.'

'If there are cracks in the walls or the walls aren't straight, or if the ceiling is too low then it would be better to replace the whole thing,' picks up Scott Young, co-founder of K&S Bespoke Builds. 'Similarly, if it's a conservatory extension and it's draughty and too cold or too hot at certain times of the year, then it's better to replace it.'

'Replacement is usually the better option where the extension’s structural integrity is compromised, for example, inadequate foundations, signs of subsidence, persistent cracking, or roof failure,' adds Costel Radescu. 'If the extension was built to outdated standards and cannot reasonably be upgraded to meet current Building Regulations, refurbishment may just not be viable. Replacement may also be appropriate where the layout, ceiling heights, or construction type no longer suit modern living or energy efficiency expectations, or where the design significantly detracts from the overall value of the property,' adds Costel.

'A practical test is this – if you need to redo most of the structure, most of the thermal envelope, and most of the services to make it comfortable, you are often better off starting again and designing something that properly fits the way you live now,' summarises Ran Ankory.

Can you improve a bad extension without replacing it?

In some cases, it might just be a case of making a few improvements and upgrades to an extension – in fact, very often, just as with a house renovation, this can completely transform the space.

'There are lots of things you can improve without removing the entire extension,' points out Scott Young. 'You can re-roof, replace windows, add insulation, re-clad or replace the render, for example.

'If the structure is sound but there's a draught coming through the windows, then just replace the windows,' continues Scott. 'Same for the roof – if a leak is coming through the roof but everything else is fine then just re-roof it. A lot of our work is re-roofing old conservatories and replacing windows on extensions with double glazing.'

'If the structure is sound overall, focus improvements on thermal upgrades, such as improving insulation to walls, floors and roofs in line with Part L, addressing cold bridges, and upgrading windows and doors,' adds Costel Radescu. 'Internally, reconfiguring layouts, improving natural light, and upgrading finishes can transform usability. Externally, improved cladding, roofing materials, and better detailing can help the extension blend more sympathetically with the main house. Even landscaping and improved drainage can also resolve practical issues and enhance overall appearance without full replacement.'

Will replacing a bad extension add value to your home?

What many homeowners want to know before removing an old extension and replacing it with new is whether it will add value to their home – and by how much.

'Replacing a poorly designed or defective extension with a well-built, compliant structure can significantly improve both market value and saleability,' says Costel Radescu. 'A new extension built to current standards will enhance thermal efficiency, improve EPC ratings, and create more functional, attractive living space. Buyers are often wary of substandard extensions, so removing a known issue can reduce surveyor concerns and strengthen buyer confidence.'

'In conservation areas, replacing a subpar extension can increase the value of a property by 8–12%,' reveals Zaeem Chaudrey. 'Properties worth over £1 million may see a £30,000–£50,000 drop in sale prices due to a bad extension. Plus, don't forget that wasted heating costs £800–£1,200 a year due to poor thermal efficiency alone so you will make other savings by replacing it.'

Does it cost more to update or replace an extension?

This will very much depend on the level of improvement required as well as the extension ideas you have in mind for the replacement.

'Renovation is typically 40–60% less expensive than rebuilding if the structure is correctly attached to the main house and the foundations are solid,' advises Zaeem Chaudrey. 'However, replacement is frequently the better option for extensions with structural movement, missing foundations, or high levels of asbestos. For clarity on what you are dealing with, get a structural survey, which costs between £500 and £800.'

'Cosmetic upgrades or minor layout alterations can be cost-effective if the extension is fundamentally sound,' further advises Costel Radescu. 'However, where extensive remedial works are required, such as underpinning foundations, replacing roofs, upgrading insulation to meet current standards, or correcting poor drainage, renovation costs can quickly approach or exceed the cost of a new build. In such cases, demolition and rebuilding can offer better long-term value, improved performance, and regulatory compliance.'

'It depends on what you can keep. If the footprint works, the structure is sound, and there is enough height to add insulation and improve glazing without making the space feel pinched, renovating can be a less invasive solution,' concludes Ran Ankory. 'Our approach is to model options and test them against real daily scenarios. How you cook, how you move through the house, where clutter lands, where you want light, privacy and calm. If the existing shell cannot support those scenarios without heavy intervention, starting again may offer better value for money in the long run.'

FAQs

What are the best ways to improve a bad extension?

If you decide to retain your existing extension and upgrade it, what are the improvements that will make the most difference?

'Start by diagnosing what is actually wrong,' advises Ran Ankory. 'Is it a light problem, a layout problem, a thermal problem – or all three? Often you can make a big difference without demolition by targeting the root cause.

'Light improvements are usually the most transformative,' continues Ran. 'Adding rooflights, adjusting glazing positions, improving internal sightlines, and borrowing light into the original house can completely change how the space feels.'

'The most impactful upgrades include adding high-performance double or triple glazing, adding in proper wall and roof insulation, incorporating underfloor heating and improving connections to the main house through wider doorways or a remodel,' says Zaeem Chaudrey. 'If your extension has a flat roof, replacing old coverings with modern GRP or single-ply membranes with insulation will cost you £80-£120 per square metre but extend the life of your extension by 25+ years.'

If you have decided to remove the old extension do take some time to weigh up the pros and cons of an extension vs a conservatory first. While extensions tend to cost more, they are often better suited to family life – conservatories, on the other hand, are a brilliant way to create a new space with a clear connection to the garden.

When we moved into our house almost three years ago, there was a list as long as your arm of things we had to do to make it suitable for modern living. From a new roof and insulation to a new layout and upgraded wiring and plumbing — I included everything I could think of from my years of working in homes journalism and previous experience renovating. One thing that we knew we had to do from day one was replace the oil boiler that we estimated to be at least 30 years old.

Every time my Mum visits she mentions the smell of oil in the house, plus the inefficient boiler breaks down every six months or so. So it's definitely time for it to go. So I started to research our options.

Ideally, we would prefer not to use oil anymore for the same reasons we wouldn’t consider installing gas (not that it’s an option in our village anyway!). One option that seemed to tick every box was a heat pump, specifically an air source heap pump, but as I dug deeper, it turned out it wouldn't be as suitable as I thought. Here's why.

Why a heat pump wouldn’t work in our house

After getting multiple quotes on how much a heat pump would cost from various heat pump providers, it was only when someone actually came to my house for the heat loss assessment that I really came to terms with the difficulties of installing a heat pump in our home. In my mind, the heat pump was going to go just outside the bathroom and utility room, as well as being cost-effective and simple to install. But sadly that wasn't to be the case.

Firstly, our house is in a conservation area and there are restrictions on what can and can’t be installed on the front elevation without planning permission so that meant were relegated to the back of the house when it came to installation points. (If you don't live in a designated zone like I do, installing a heat pump may actually be one of those home improvements that doesn't require planning permission, but you should always check with your local authority).

Next, we have a very narrow walkway running down the back of the house with the external wall opposite a retaining wall for a section of the garden. When the assessor came, he indicated that because of the size of the house (~180m2) we would need a larger heat pump than I had imagined. This would leave us with just 60cm of walkway space. I also hadn’t anticipated that best practice with heat pumps is to have them set away from the wall by 10-15cm, further reducing our access to a measly 50-45cm.

One option was to reduce the size of the retaining wall for the garden, and another was to install the heat pump where the oil tank currently stands and dig out a trench for the required connections to the hot water tank. Both would vastly increase the cost of the heat pump, completely negating the cost benefits with the Boiler Upgrade Scheme discounts that made it so appealing

That means we were back to square one and in still desperate need of replacing our boiler. So what are our options now?

What heap pump alternatives could we choose?

Now that I know a heat pump wouldn't work in my home, I need to go back to the drawing board. From my research, I have three feasible options to choose from.

1. Another oil boiler

The simplest option for us would be to replace like-for-like with a new oil combi boiler. I’m pretty sure anything would be more efficient than our current 30-year-old model. In the last three decades there have been huge improvements in the condensing technologies that our boiler relied on.

However, despite the planned 2026 ban on new oil boilers, similar to the gas boiler ban, being delayed until 2035, there is obviously an issue with burning fossil fuels in our homes.

I can foresee that the costs of oil instability getting progressively worse, meaning our savings in the long-run wouldn’t be as incentivising. Moreover, making our home more environmentally friendly was one of the major benefits of installing a heat pump in the first place and I feel guilty every time I order an oil delivery.

2. Electric boiler

Not only would the next possibility, an electric boiler, be quieter to run, it would also remove the chance of oil smells in the utility and reduce our dependence on fossil fuels (to a degree, as electricity often comes from fossil fuels). Plus, it would be installed in the same place as our current boiler with minimal fuss.

However, it may well be more expensive to run than our current oil boiler, despite a cheaper initial installation cost, and it won’t work during power cuts (something we, for some reason, get fairly frequently in our area).

We spent £1,066 for 1,500l of oil last year and with the current price of electricity being around 27p, it would cost at least double per year to heat our four-bed house. Generally speaking, electric boilers are considered to be more cost-effective in smaller properties than ours.

3. Biomass boiler

My favourite option and the one we’re most likely going to choose is a biomass boiler. My old boss installed one in his house and at the time it sounded really counter-intuitive. They work by burning wood pellets or similar fuel, and in my head I very much conflated them with old-fashioned woodburning stoves and the negativities surrounding the emissions. However, after a little digging, it seems the particulate filters on biomass boilers mean they actually cause very little air pollution.

My research says a biomass boiler would suit a house our size better than an electric boiler, and it means we would be less dependent on fossil fuels. It's also a much more environmentally friendly option than either of the other two choices we were facing.

While they are more expensive than either oil or gas boilers, they’re eligible through the Boiler Upgrade Scheme, although the discount is not as much as for a heat pump. Approximate running costs for the biomass boiler we'd go for seems to be around £800-900 per year, depending on usage, which would be a saving for us.

The only draw back for us is the space required, both for the boiler and hopper system, and for the pellet/fuel storage.

So plenty for my partner and I to think about, and I'll be sure to fill you in on the option we end up going with. In the meantime, I've been sharing more tips from our renovation, from how I fixed our draughty front door in just five minutes to the instant benefits we felt from upgrading from single to double glazing.

The rumour mill has been buzzing with talk that woodburning stoves are going to be banned in the UK. But is there any truth to the gossip?

Woodburning stoves are hugely popular with those who enjoy the unmatched cosy atmosphere they create. But when you consider the sizeable cost of installing a woodburning stove, whispers of an imminent ban are enough to make anyone pause for thought.

To clear things up, I spoke to the experts to find out if a ban was coming, and whether log burner rules are changing, where the rumours came from, and what you should do if you are planning on getting a woodburning stove, or if there is anything you should do differently if you already have one.

Are woodburning stoves going to be banned in the UK?

The good news is rumours of a woodburning stove ban in the UK are not true.

'There are no plans to ban wood burners in the UK – just a continued shift to cleaner burning, where responsible stove owners are part of the solution as domestic combustion emissions continue to fall and targets are tightened,' explains Barry Cope , CEO of HETAS. 'The government is focused on improving air quality and will consult this year on ways to cut emissions, recognising that some households rely on log burners.'

So if it's not true, where have these rumours come from? 'Headlines following Labour’s revised Environmental Improvement Plan 2025 have caused some rumours, where tougher targets for air quality have been confused with a ban on wood burners,' explains Barry.

'In reality, no bans have been announced. The government will be holding a consultation with industry professionals this year to plan how emissions can be further reduced as a first step. Other areas, such as transport and industrial emissions, are also highlighted in the new Plan, and officials from Defra have ruled out geographical bans or the removal of existing log burners in homes.'

What should a homeowner know if they are planning on installing a woodburning stove in 2026?

If you are planning on installing a woodburning stove this year, then beyond determining what size log burner you need, you need to choose the right type of appliance too. 'Looking for a Cleaner Choice-certified stove is an important first step,' says Barry. 'These stoves already emit at least 50% less particulate emissions than UK smoke control area limits, so you'll minimise emissions* and choose an appliance that’s future proofed.'

You'll also need to understand the log burner building regulations you'll need to meet. These cover crucial safety and ventilation requirements.

'Finding a professional, such as a HETAS Registered Installer, to fit your appliance is the next vital step,' explains Barry, 'they will make sure it is safely installed and that all building regulations are followed.'

'If you are in a smoke controlled area, you must use a DEFRA approved stove,' adds Joanna Humphreys, Fire and Stove Specialist at Direct Stoves. 'These are stoves that have been tested to ensure they produce minimal levels of smoke. You also need to ensure that your firewood is dry and seasoned. You must not burn any household waste, such as old furniture, pallets or fencing, as these are likely to be treated with chemicals that can release toxins when burnt. The firewood you use should also have a moisture content of 20% or less to prevent excessive smoke.'

Make sure you also read our guide to the types of wood you should never burn in a log burner.

Should someone who has a woodburning stove be doing anything differently?

If you already have a woodburning stove, then the advice is to continue to use the right fuels and keep up with regular maintenance. 'Burning safely is simple: use Ready to Burn fuels, follow the manufacturer’s instructions, and book regular sweeping and servicing are just a few easy ways to keep your stove’s heat high and your emissions minimised,' says Barry.

However, if you've had your burner for more than a decade, and upgrade may be needed to ensure it remains compliant with the current regulations and guidance.

'f you have a wood burning stove which is more than 10 years old, it’s worth upgrading it to a model which is Ecodesign Ready as your old model doesn’t have the new, innovative technology installed to help lower emissions,' explains Jon Butterworth, Director at Arada Stoves. 'Replacing old models can reduce emissions by nearly 45%. From January 2022, all new models need to meet this criteria as its aim is to reduce the impact home heating appliances have on the environment with stricter guidelines concerning efficiency levels and emissions in order to improve air quality.'

While you're researching the wood burner ideas that would best suit your home and budget, heed this advice from someone who has one as to what they wish they knew before they installed their log burner.

Whether you have noticed water pooling on your driveway, regularly have a waterlogged garden come the rainier seasons or are in the process of re-landscaping your home, you really should be thinking about improving the drainage on your property.

You may well have noticed a push towards sustainable drainage methods if you have been researching driveway materials, or are building an extension, with many local councils now keen to push homeowners towards solutions that reduce the risk of surface water escaping onto roads and pavements.

While many people still view sustainable drainage systems as the reserve of public spaces, increasingly, homeowners are getting on board with these methods, implementing them into their own home design, recognising not only the immediate benefits but also the wider positive impact incorporating even just elements of these designs can have. These are the options most worth considering.

What is a sustainable drainage system?

Sustainable drainage systems – also known as SuDS – are basically designed to mimic natural drainage as much as possible with the aim of reducing surface water and, subsequently, pressure on the existing sewer infrastructure. That said, many will also work to improve drainage in a garden and add something visually to your outdoor spaces too.

'Our towns and cities are at risk of flooding. In built-up areas, surface water collects quickly and can overflow drains. To put it plainly, the places we live just aren’t as ‘spongy’ as we’d like,' explains Adam Boucher, Network Operations Lead at Severn Trent. 'SuDS are Sustainable Drainage Systems. They work by diverting surface water away from sewers, slowing it down and helping our drains to cope. The great thing about SuDS is that they combine some of the latest water drainage technology with Mother Nature.'

While many sustainable drainage systems are designed for use within urban developments and commercial spaces, there are a whole host of ways homeowners can introduce them into their own homes too. By doing this, not only are they helping the wider surroundings, but can also enjoy other benefits.

Permeable paving

It might be that you are looking to refresh your driveway ideas, or that you are constructing a new drive completely from scratch – whichever it is, this is one area that sustainable drainage will often be a requirement.

'A lot of local councils now push Sustainable Drainage Systems, so they’re keen on permeable block paving, gravel and set-ups where water is stored and allowed to soak away slowly rather than racing into the drains or flooding the road,' explains Jack Hamer, managing director at Silvermere Landscapes. 'Nine times out of 10 on a typical domestic driveway in Surrey we will be designing the falls and drainage so that all the surface water stays within the plot. We will either ensure it either soaks away or runs into a suitable drain that’s allowed to take it.'

Using permeable materials also means that planning permission for a driveway won't usually be required, as well as ensuring the area doesn't end up full of puddles during periods of heavy rainfall.

Shop permeable driveway materials

Soakaways

Another simple sustainable drainage option for homeowners is a soakaway, a method of taking excess rainwater away safely and prevent flooding, both on driveways as well as in gardens.

'Soakaways are considered a form of Sustainable Drainage System (SuDS), which are encouraged under both national and local planning policies,' explains David Iddon director at DTS Property. 'A soakaway is a subsurface drainage system that allows rainwater and surface runoff to percolate back into the ground, helping to prevent flooding and overloading the local drainage system. It’s typically a gravel-filled pit or modular crate system connected to a drainage pipe that collects water from roofs, patios, or driveways.'

There are kits readily available for homeowners which contain everything needed to install a soakaway on a DIY basis and, once in place, they are barely visible so won't ruin the kerb appeal of a property.

Rainwater harvesting systems

While this might sound complicated, rainwater harvesting can be as simple as incorporating a water butt into the design of your home. By simply connecting a water butt to the guttering in order to capture rainwater run-off from a roof, you are preventing it from pooling on the ground – plus you can then use it to water your garden in a dry spell.

Other, more complex solutions, collect rainwater before directing it to a filtration system and, finally, into a storage tank. From here, depending on the type of system you have opted for, the water can be used for household tasks such as washing clothes and flushing toilets.

If you want the water to be suitable for washing and drinking, a far more elaborate system will be required.

Rain gardens

Another commonly used method of public spaces that translates beautifully into residential settings is the rain garden. This is a great way to reduce water logging, avoid the need for a soakaway and can also help attract wildlife to your garden.

'Rain gardens use plants and soil to retain and slow the flow of rainwater from surrounding hard surfaces,' explains Adam Boucher. 'They also help cool urban areas in the summer, so even when it’s not raining, they make a positive difference. '

According to the RHS, rain gardens are suitable for any garden which is relatively well-drained and that has a minimum slope of 10%.

These are basically shallow dips created in the ground ready to receive water run-off from hard surfaces and roofs. They can be planted with species that enjoy a good soaking such as flood proof plants and collect rainwater, allowing it to slowly disperse.

Do you have to have sustainable drainage?

At present you do not have to incorporate SuDS into your home, although if you are creating a new driveway over 5m2 in size and won't be using permeable materials, you will need to ensure water drains away to a suitable permeable area such as a French drain or soakaway.

Additionally, if you are building an extension, you will need to make sure you understand the building regulations surrounding dealing with excess surface water.

'When you add extra roof area or paving as part of your extension, it increases the amount of impermeable surface on your property,' explains David Iddon. 'This means more rainwater runs off rather than soaking into the ground naturally. UK Building Regulations require this additional surface water to be managed appropriately to avoid contributing to local flooding.'

This might mean incorporating a soakaway into your design, although this won't always be suitable, particularly if your property sits on heavy clay soil. Having a percolation test carried out during the planning stages will help determine the best solution for you.

What are the pros and cons of sustainable drainage?

There are many benefits for homeowners who implement sustainable drainage systems into their home – so don't just view them as boring requirements.

Pros of SuDS

• Helps reduce pooling and flooding on driveways and patios.
• Reduces the risk of a garden becoming waterlogged.
• Some systems will attract wildlife into your garden.
• Rainwater harvesting systems can cut your water bills.

Cons of SuDS

There are not many downsides to sustainable drainage, save for the fact that they do come at a cost. That said, driveway materials such as gravel and permeable block paving are not much more expensive than non-permeable materials such as tarmac.

FAQs

Are sustainable drainage systems expensive?

They don't have to be. Simple methods such as installing a water butt are very affordable. Likewise, one of the most permeable driveway materials around – gravel – also happens to be one of the lowest cost.

If you want to incorporate a soakaway, its size, location and who you choose to install it will play a part in its final cost. Expect to pay from £800 up to £2,500 for materials and labour.

Good drainage is so important when it comes to preventing damage to your home, but there are lots of other ways of floodproofing a house to consider too for a multi-faceted approach.

Moving a drain for an extension is more common than you might think, yet it is important to understand the regulations surrounding the job if you want to ensure not only that you won't be breaking any rules by carrying out the work, but also that the structural integrity of your new structure is not negatively affected.

While building an extension won't always affect your drains, there are instances where building out from the existing house will mean the new structure sits over a drain or manhole cover. In this case, it will be necessary to notify Building Control or your local water authority, depending on the type of drain you are dealing with.

If you have found that your extension will affect the drains on your property, our handy guide is here to ensure you start the project fully aware of what this might mean for your build, its schedule and your budget.

Are you allowed to move a drain for an extension or renovation?

If you have found that your extension ideas will require a drain to be moved, the first thing you need to look into is whether or not you will need to apply for permission to do so. In many cases, rather than moving a drain, it will be a case of building over them instead.

The drains located beneath your property will be either private or public. Drains that pass through your property at the same time as serving another property nearby are classed as public, while drains that serve only your property are classed as private.

If your drain is private you can go ahead and build an extension over it – although Building Control will want to come out and approve the works as part of the extension.

'If it is private, then your contractor can relocate it without a submission by following standard technical guidance,' confirms Zak Gilby, managing director and co-founder of DeVis Architecture.

How do you get permission to move or build over a public drain?

In terms of moving or building over public drains things are definitely more complicated than with private – this will add more to your extension costs too.

Public drains are the responsibility of the local water authority and every public drain will have an 'easement' – a protected area on either side. For pipes measuring more than 300mm in diameter this will commonly be 5m while those that are smaller than this will usually have an easement of 3m. To find out whether or not an application is required, speak to your local water authority.

If you find that the pipes are either 100mm or 150mm in diameter (which they commonly will be) you can submit an Application to Build Over or Close to a Public Sewer. This kind of application will include a CCTV survey both before and after the work is carried out.

What is a Build Over Agreement?

In short, a Build Over Agreement is a contract between a homeowner and the local water authority that gives the homeowner permission to build over a public drain or sewer in order to extend their property. It is often a requirement for both rear extensions as well as side extensions.

Providing all criteria are met, such as the minimum distances mentioned above, it should not be too difficult to secure a Build Over Agreement, although there are instances where things can get a little more complex.

It is important to note that Build Over Agreements won't usually be approved for detached buildings, such as garages or annexes. For this, you would need to apply for a diversion.

How much does a Build Over Agreement cost?

The cost of a Build Over Agreement depends on the size of the sewer in question.

According to Thames Water, prices start at £130 for a sewer with an internal diameter of 150mm or less, rising to £520 for a sewer with an internal diameter more than 375mm – plus there will be additional legal costs for this size which are likely to start at £1,000.

Is it possible to move a public drain?

In some cases, it will be necessary to divert a drain to build an extension – so be prepared for even seemingly simple kitchen extension ideas to become more complex if you think this might be the case for your own project.

Adam Boucher, network operations lead from Severn Trent has some useful advice on what to do if you find your extension will require drains to be moved.

'If you have identified a public sewer on your land which is owned by Severn Trent and your new development affects it by having properties proposed over them or within 2.5m (for sewers less than 300mm in diameter) or 5m (for 300mm diameter sewers and above) you will need to apply for it to be diverted,' explains Adam Boucher.

Applying to divert public drains is a quite an involved process, involving detailed design drawings, CCTV drain surveys and even Habitat Surveys.

How much does it cost to move a drain?

The cost of moving drains varies hugely, depending on their size, whether they are public or private and the distance they are being moved. If you are hoping to add value to your home with an extension, bear these costs in mind.

You will need to factor in materials, labour, design drawings and permission from the water authority if the drain in question is public.

According to Checkatrade, you should expect average costs of between £4,500 - £6,000 to move a drain for an extension. They estimate that to relocate a manhole cover, you should budget around £1,000.

FAQs

How much does it cost to apply to move a drain for an extension?

Along with the materials and labour required to move a drain, don't forget to factor in the cost of an application.

According to Checkatrade, the cost of getting permission from the local water authority to move the drain costs an average of £750.

Extensions come in all shapes and sizes. If you are struggling to find space in your existing home, take a look at our round up of extension ideas for small houses to see whether there is an option you haven't yet considered.

Are you planning on adding an extension over where a drain sits? Don't, in all the excitement of planning your new space, neglect to take into account the less glamourous aspects of the project – including how it will affect existing services, like your drains.

Building an extension can throw up all kinds of unexpected issues, be that a planning constraint you weren't previously aware of, unsuitable ground conditions or the need for a Party Wall Agreement. Being aware of these 'hidden' complications early on means no pesky delays or the need to unexpectedly spend more than you had budgeted for.

Understanding how to navigate existing drains when extending can, admittedly, be complicated, but this is one aspect of your build you really need to get right if you want to ensure not only that you don't fall foul of the law but also that there are no structural implications to worry about. Here are the six things to consider before breaking ground in order to enter your project fully prepared.

1. Are you dealing with a public or private drain?

First things first, what type of drain are you dealing with here – public or private? The answer will very much affect how you should proceed.

'When building an extension, be that a side extension or a rear design, the first step is to understand if it's a public or private drain,' picks up architectural technologist Zak Gilby, co-founder of DeVis Architecture. 'If the sewer connects to any neighbouring properties, it's classed as public and maintained by the water board. In this case, a Build Over Agreement would be needed to bridge over, relocate or divert the sewer/inspection chamber. 'If it is private, then your contractor can relocate it without a submission by following standard technical guidance.'

You should bear in mind that you will not be allowed to have a junction of a public drain beneath your new floor. This is because there is a risk of a blockage occurring and access would be needed to solve this. Instead, all drains from the extension should pass to an external space where they enter a manhole.

2. Understand how close you can build to a drain

You need to know where the drains for your property run before designing your extension ideas – your architect should be well aware of this. Locating drains, however, is not always as simple as you might think. If you are lucky, a drainage plan may be included with your deeds, but this is not always the case.

If you are struggling, you might need a drain survey which will use CCTV to determine the positioning of drains. Once located, you need to bear in mind the minimum distances you are allowed to build your extension from the drains.

'As a rule of thumb, any new foundation or footing should be at least 500mm away from the centre of the inspection chamber/manhole,' says Zak Gilby. 'The pipe should be a minimum of 150mm from any foundations where running parallel if less than 1.1m deep, or 1.2m away if deeper.

'If either of these limits is breached, then the a Build Over Agreement is required, and a submission to your local water authority. Typically this would include existing and proposed drainage drawings, scaled detail drawings, and, occasionally, a CCTV drain survey from a professional.'

3. Be aware you might need a new manhole

In some cases, your new addition might mean that you need a new manhole to be installed – you should factor this into your overall extension costs, or at the very least into your contingency fund.

'In most cases the main shared sewer pipe stays in its existing position, with the new foundation bridging over it at either side to avoid loading pressure on the pipes (usually clay or PVC),' explains Zak Gilby. 'A new, offset manhole would then be installed outside the extension footprint for access and maintenance.

'Internal manholes are not permitted, so these are then blocked up and the pipe is replaced with a continuous section.'

4. Expect the unexpected

Even once you know where the drains are, there are other factors that can, in some cases, step in and further complicate things, meaning the rerouting of drains or the positioning of your new extension may need to be reconsidered.

'While navigating drains is a common scenario for most residential projects, certain factors can complicate things further, for example, large trees, which can affect diversion routes, or ground conditions such as clay soil or a high water table,' points our Zak Gilby. 'The unfortunate thing is that these don't always become clear until after works have begun. Working with a professional design team and contractor helps measure risk and costs at each stage.'

The key is to prepare for the unexpected – failure to do this is one of the biggest extension mistakes out there. Having a contingency fund for these kinds of issues is very wise – 10-15% of the overall costs is recommended, although with fluctuating costs, 15-20% could be a safer bet.

5. Understand who is responsible for damaged drains

However careful your groundworkers and build team might be, during extension work – namely at the stage where foundations are being excavated – drains can get damaged. Whether you are building a single storey extension or something larger, if this happens, you need to be aware who is responsible for their repair as well as the costs that will be involved.

'If there's any damage to the sewer during or after works, it is usually the responsibility of the person carrying out the works or the homeowner to rectify the damage,' reveals Zak Gilby. 'Whether this is due to a design fault or build error would likely be investigated, but good craftmanship and professional input goes a long way in reducing potential issues.'

In short, if the damaged drains are within the boundaries of your property, you will be responsible for their repair. If you are unsure, you can request a sewer map from your local water authority which should help determine what kind of drain you are dealing with.

6. Be prepared to make compromises

It is a really good idea to be prepared for the fact that you are likely to need to make some compromises during the course of your extension – and your drains could well be one of the main reasons for these adjustments.

'One issue which we previously encountered was an extension planned to run directly above the existing sewer line, which was public,' shares Zak Gilby. 'This would have exceeded the 150mm distance allowed, and instead we had to make a decision. We had three choices. We could reduce depth of the extension, apply for planning permission to extend out further, or apply to divert the sewer. The last option can be costly and slow-moving, as the work has to be undertaken by the water authority's own contractors.'

The message? Even if you find drains are in the way of your plans, there will be a solution. Just be ready to make changes to your design, your schedule and your budget.

FAQs

How close to a drain can you build an extension?

This depends on the drain in question. If it is a public sewer and you plan on building over or within 3m of it, you will require a 'Build Over Agreement'.

You should also remember that new foundations or footings for your extensions should be a minimum of 500mm away from the centre of any inspection chamber or manhole,'

Who is responsible for damaged drains?

If the drain in question is within the boundaries of your property, it is highly likely that you will be responsible for its repair. Damaged public drains are the responsibility of the water authority.

Check to see what your home insurance covers, depending on your policy, you might find the costs are covered.

Keen to add space to your home next year? Check out our guide to what size extension you can build without applying for planning permission – the process could be simpler than you imagined.

While it might not be one of the most glamourous aspects of your landscape design, driveway drainage is absolutely vital if you want this area to perform well, stand the test of time and, of course, do justice to the overall kerb appeal of your home.

Drainage needs to be planned in alongside your driveway ideas – the materials you choose as well as the overall design of the space you intend on using to park your vehicles and access your house all play a role here. Additionally, there are certain sections of the building regulations you'll need to adhere to.

The good news is that getting your driveway drainage spot on need not mean sacrificing the good looks of your home's approach – in fact, in many cases, it can do the very opposite, enhancing its visual appeal. We asked the experts how to get this all-important aspect just right to help you on the way.

1. Get the sub base just right

Before anything else, you need to ensure that you look at the surface your driveway will be laid on top of. This is one of the most common driveway mistakes and failure to do so could result in a driveway that looks uneven and bumpy all too quickly.

'A thin or badly compacted sub-base means dips appear over time,' explains Jack Hamer, managing director at Silvermere Landscapes. 'Those low spots are where puddles form that cause issues in winter. We tend to use a decent depth of MOT Type 1, well-compacted so the surface stays stable. Preparation is critical!'

Keep in mind that whatever type of driveway materials you opt for, some kind of crushed aggregate sub-base will be required and, if you intend on using gravel, you should also install a good weed membrane to cut down on maintenance.

2. Use attractive permeable driveway materials

Permeable driveway materials allow water to pass through and drain away and, while not always essential, in some cases they are a requirement of the building regulations.

'New or replacement driveways over 5m squared have to be permeable (allow liquids to pass through) or must drain to a soakaway/rain garden on your land,' explains Tom Polkinghorne, director at Creations Building & Landscaping.

'Permeable block paving looks just like standard block paving but the joints and sub-base are designed so water soaks through rather than runs off,' picks up Jack Hamer. 'To most people it just looks like a nice modern driveway.'

Another attractive permeable option is good old gravel which comes in all kinds of colours and designs. Team it with a permeable membrane or geotextile fabric beneath to aid with drainage. Finally, don't discount porous asphalt or a resin bound driveway.

Shop permeable driveway materials

3. Design the driveway slope carefully

Nothing is going to ruin the kerb appeal of your home faster than a driveway full of unsightly puddles – the way around this is to design your driveway with a subtle slope.

'If the driveway is too flat, or slopes back towards the house, water will just sit there,' explains Jack Hamer. 'We normally build in a gentle fall away from the property towards a drain or a soakaway.'

It is important to make sure that the slope is carefully calculated here if you want it to work as it should in getting the water away from your driveway and home.

'The drainage angle for a driveway typically ranges between 1% to 2%, or 1/8″ to 1/4″ of slope per foot,' explains Turrou Landesmann, director of trading at Drainage Superstore. 'This slope is designed to ensure effective water run-off and prevent standing water on the driveway surface.'

4. Install discreet channel drains

Channel drains are a really popular and effective method of dealing with excess water on a driveway – plus they are more affordable than some of the alternatives. They are installed to sit pretty much flush with the surface of the driveway and from there, direct the water that flows into them to wherever you choose – a soakaway, elsewhere within your garden landscaping scheme and so on.

Channel drains can be located wherever makes sense on your driveway – to either side, at its base or even in the centre. Just be sure to check the 'maximum weight load' as this determines how much weight they can support.

'Slim ACO style channel drains in a matching or similar colour to the paving can blend in really well especially if they’re laid in a straight line across the drive or around the edge of the house,' advises Jack Hamer.

5. Include planted areas in your driveway design

For maximum kerb appeal you want to try to avoid vast, unbroken stretches of the same hard landscaping material. Instead, aim to incorporate planted areas or mix and match driveway materials for a more thoughtful look. This is also a good idea when looking at improving garden drainage in general

'Drainage doesn’t have to look ugly or tacked on,' says Jack Hamer. 'A solid paved area down the middle with gravel or decorative stone down the sides looks smart and gives somewhere for water to drain. Add some low planting and it softens the front of the house and hides angles.'

If you a short on space, consider using plants that take up little of your driveway's footprint, such as neat box hedges or climbing plants – you don't have to incorporate large flowerbeds to make the space look attractive.

6. Install a hidden soakaway

If you are after driveway drainage that remains hidden from view, a soakaway is the perfect choice.

'A soakaway is an underground storage area designed to collect rainwater and allow it to gradually disperse into the ground,' explains Turrou Landesmann. 'While it’s an environmentally friendly option that will help reduce your carbon footprint, you should keep in mind that soil conditions must be suitable for efficient water absorption.'

A hole in the driveway will be dug before being filled with rubble, gravel or plastic crates designed specifically for the job. The hole will then be covered with a permeable surface material and water should be directed into the soakaway.

7. Consider fitting a French drain

French drains have many benefits. While they are the ideal way to overcome a waterlogged garden, they also work brilliantly as a method of driveway drainage.

'A French drain is a gravel-filled trench with a perforated pipe that collects water and channels it away from the driveway,' explains Turrou Landesmann. 'This is a brilliant option for driveways that are located on slopes or in areas with poor soil drainage.'

Even better, many DIYers tackle the task of installing a French drain on a DIY basis very successfully – just ensure you choose the right location for it before breaking ground.

'Choose a location for the trench that’s naturally downhill, or create your own slope by digging the trench at a 1% gradient,' advises Turrou Landesmann. 'This will allow gravity to do its part in draining the water away to your chosen destination.'

8. Opt for a resin driveway – but choose carefully

For anyone after a low-maintenance driveway material and a crisp, modern finish, resin driveways can be the perfect choice. That said, there are some disadvantages of resin driveways to be aware of – one being that not all are permeable, meaning drainage will need to be carefully designed.

If resin is a material you are considering you will be pleased to learn that the majority are permeable, adding to their fit-and-forget appeal.

Make sure you are opting for a 'resin bound' driveway as opposed to the cheaper alternative, 'resin bonded' as the latter will usual be non-permeable.

FAQs

Why is driveway drainage so important?

Whether you are constructing a driveway from scratch or upgrading an existing one alongside your front garden ideas, ensuring water can effectively drain away is key – not only to ensure the useability and longevity of your driveway but also in the way it impacts your surroundings.

'Making sure surface water doesn’t run off your drive into the road or a neighbour’s property is critical,' explains Jack Hamer.

Putting proper drainage into place prevents flooding, damage to the surface of the driveway or other areas of your property, and the erosion of materials. Additionally, bear in mind that pooling water can, in freezing temperatures, pose a safety risk. And, finally, failure to ensure good drainage could, depending on the size of your driveway, mean you are at risk of ignoring important building regs.

Does my driveway need drainage?

All driveways need some form of drainage if they are to remain puddle free. The kind of drainage, however, depends on the size of the driveway and the materials you wish to use to cover it with.

'If you install a new driveway over 5m² using a non-permeable surface, such as like standard block paving or tarmac, you need to make sure the water drains to a permeable area within your boundary, such as a lawn, flower bed or soakaway rather than onto the the road or neighbour's property,' explains Tom Polkinghorne.

'If you want a big area of non-permeable surfacing that drains straight to the road, you’ll usually need planning permission for driveways,' adds Jack Hamer. 'Most people avoid that by using permeable materials or adding proper drainage channels and soakaways on their own land. However, I recommend always checking in with your local council. It saves a headache down the road (literally!)'

What’s the best drainage for a driveway?

Using a permeable surface material is the best way to ensure your driveway drainage is spot on. Materials such as gravel, permeable block paving, porous asphalt and resin bound gravel are all safe bets.

In areas prone to waterlogging, on large driveways or in locations that experience high rainfall, it will also be wise to consider additional drainage methods such as soakaways.

How do I divert water run off from my driveway?

This is where building in a slope can help – and can even be done when simply resurfacing a driveway. You want to safely direct water away from your home, off your driveway and into a dedicated area where it can slowly disperse.

'The choice of slope depends on various factors, including local drainage conditions, the type of driveway surface and the volume of rainfall in your area,' explains Turrou Landesmann.

Of course getting the slope right is just part of the solution – the diverted water still needs somewhere to go.

'You’d be surprised how many drives look smart but have no drainage at the lowest point,' reveals Jack Hamer. 'We suggest one of the following:

• Linear channel drains across the front of garages or in front of the house.
• Soakaways with metal crates or filled with clean stone.
• Permeable sections such as gravel strips so the water can actually disappear before spilling over.

Gravel is one of the most popular of all the available driveway materials – affordable, available in a huge range of designs and easy to lay on a DIY basis. However, be sure to look into all the pros and cons of gravel driveways before making your final decision.

I had a new boiler installed by BOXT in my three-bedroom home to set me up for the winter months, and I reviewed the whole process to help you decide if it’s the right route for you.

And while the idea of replacing my old and inefficient boiler filled me with dread, I shouldn’t have been concerned. The whole process was quick, easy, and extremely professional. This is everything you need to know.

In a nutshell

I’ve known for a couple of years that our old, inefficient boiler would need to be replaced in the near future, but the hassle associated with it had always put me off. But when our Renovation and Home Energy Editor, Sarah, had great things to say about BOXT after having BOXT air conditioning installed in her home over the summer, I figured they’d be a good bet — and they were.

The process is quick and simple: all you need to do is answer a few questions on the website to find a variety of boilers that suit your home and needs. You can feel confident that your fixed-price installation quote won’t change if you need time to weigh up your decision — and if you choose to go ahead, you can book your installation as early as the next day.

From my experience, there’s very limited input on your part. All you need to do is upload photos of your current boiler and setup to the app or through email, (you'll be given clear instructions of exactly what pictures are required), and the dedicated team of BOXT boiler engineers will make sure your choices are suitable and won’t require any extra work or hit any snags along the way. This is ideal if you're really not sure about the ins and outs of boiler replacement, as the BOXT team are there as a safety net.

When it’s all done, you can keep track of all of your information and certificates on the app, while having constant communication with BOXT and their team. The one-year workmanship guarantee on all installations, coupled with the manufacturer’s warranty (which can be up to 12 years, depending on the product), also helps you rest easy. I know I have been, and I wish I’d done it sooner.

Ordering the BOXT boiler

As someone with limited knowledge of boilers and not a lot of time to spare, I really appreciated how simple it was to get a boiler quote with BOXT. The online tool guided me through the whole process, asking me simple questions such as whether I’m a homeowner or landlord, the type of fuel my current boiler uses, what type of boiler I have, and general questions about the rooms and radiators in my house.

Then, things got a little more technical. The online tool asked me where my flue comes out, how far the current boiler is from my outside wall, how close my flue is to the ground, and whether my flue is 30cm or more from a door or window. This required some more input on my part, as I had to double-check and measure these distances.

I was worried I would do this wrong, but there were helpful prompts on the screen to guide me through the process. I’d later learn that BOXT would also require photographic evidence of the information I’d supplied, in order to help their team of dedicated engineers get the lay of the land and determine whether my current setup met current legislation and guidelines (spoiler alert: they didn’t!)

All in all, there were 22 questions to answer. And when I’d submitted all of my responses, I supplied my postcode to give me the dates available for the installation —which can be the next working day if you order by 3pm.

I was then faced with a wide range of boiler options to suit my home and needs, and I must admit I was very impressed with the selection available. However, I was also a little daunted by the options, as a lot of the makes and models didn’t mean a lot to me.

Handily, though, BOXT offers little hints at the top of each option - such as ‘compact model,’ ‘latest model’, and even ones that offer a 0% finance payment plan. The specifications of each option are also clearly stated, from the included warranty to the central heating output and any extras, such as carbon monoxide alarms, fittings, and the included removal of my old boiler. I decided to go for the brand’s bestseller, a Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 25kw

It’s at this stage that you can also bolt on optional extras, such as a fancier thermostat and a MagnaCleanse Flush. These are totally optional, and I didn’t feel as though I was being forced to add them to my booking.

As it was flagged that I live in a hard water area, it was also recommended that I add an in-line scale reducer to my order, which cost me an extra £65. Again, though, this was completely optional, and I was happy to pay the extra as I wanted to make my heating system as efficient as possible.

The booking system also made me aware that current building regulations require every radiator in your home (except one) to have a TRV (thermostatic radiator valve). As my radiators were old and outdated, I also added these for £40 a pop. If you already have TRVs, though, you won’t need to add these on.

Arranging installation

Once you’ve chosen your boiler and any added extras, arranging installation couldn’t be easier. I was greeted with an open calendar listing all available installation dates, and I could have even chosen the following day if I wanted to.

In most cases, choosing a date won’t cost you a penny. On quieter days, you can even get a discounted rate. However, if you choose a weekend, you will need to pay an extra £100. Personally, I went for the next week to give myself time to prepare and chose a Thursday so I wouldn’t have to pay any extra.

Almost immediately after I’d placed the order, I received an email from BOXT asking me to submit pictures to prove the answers I’d provided earlier on were correct. And while you can simply send these pictures via email, I decided to download the app to make the process even easier — and it was seamless.

I was a little worried about the pictures, not knowing exactly what they needed to see, but BOXT made this easy by providing helpful examples and I was assured that the engineers would be in touch if the pictures didn’t meet their requirements.

In my case, I needed to send them evidence of:

• The boiler, including the area above and below it
• The existing controls
• The flue exit
• The front of my house
• My gas meter
• The pipes underneath or above my boiler

During this stage, BOXT stresses that their technical team must review these pictures by 3pm on the working day before the installation. If you don’t send them in time, they might have to reschedule, and you may be charged.

A few days after this, I received a phone call from one of the BOXT engineers, confirming that my pictures provided all the information they needed and that the boiler I’d chosen would be a suitable fit for the space and my home in general.

I was also given more information about the boiler engineer that would be coming on the day, as well as the general running order of the day — in terms of when the boiler would be delivered (it arrives between 7:30 and 9:30 am on the morning of the installation via courier), when the engineer would arrive, and how long it would roughly take.

He also explained any potential problems that could arise during the day, like having to replace the gas pipe running to my home, but stated that this would come at no extra cost to me if that was the case. Luckily, it wasn’t!

All in all, the ordering and booking process couldn’t have been simpler, and I was really impressed with BOXT's communication. I even received text messages and emails the day before and the morning of the installation to confirm everything.

What was the installation process like?

As my boiler cupboard sits behind my sofa in the living room and is used to store all kinds of junk, I spent some time clearing the area around the boiler — and the contents of the cupboard — the night before the installation. This was to ensure the engineer, Kevin, would be able to get cracking as soon as he arrived.

The morning of the installation, the engineer and the boiler arrived separately. As per his text message the night before, Kevin arrived at 8am on the dot and immediately introduced himself. In his hands, he had protective floor coverings, which he put down before he set foot in my house. He then covered the entire area from the front door to the boiler cupboard to keep my floors clean.

He then explained everything he would be doing throughout the day, and was more than happy to answer any questions I had about the process. And while Kevin works for BOXT as a contractor, I felt confident in his ability and his professionalism, as all of BOXT’s installers are vetted and audited to ensure they adhere to the company’s high standards.

The new boiler then arrived by courier at 8:30, and the engineer explained that my old boiler and all the packaging from the new boiler would be picked up later in the day, so I wouldn’t have to dispose of anything myself. This was a huge relief, as I wouldn’t even know where to begin with disposing of an old boiler.

Over the next few hours, I largely left Kevin to it — not wanting to get in his way, but making him a cup of tea every so often and ensuring his supply of biscuits was readily available. But whenever he had to do anything that would affect me, like turning the water off for a few hours or switching the power off, which left me without internet — he always gave me advance notice. This meant I could go to the toilet one last time, get a few glasses of water prepped, and make sure the work on my computer, since I work from home, was saved.

As I was simply replacing an old boiler with a new one, the installation process was straightforward. Kevin worked hard for a full day and thankfully didn’t encounter any problems along the way. However, if you want to move your boiler, replace the type of boiler, or have a gas line replaced, it may take longer than that.

Before Kevin left, he gave me a complete rundown of what he’d done and the changes he’d had to make to our setup to make it regulation-compliant. This included a new carbon monoxide alarm placed a certain distance and height away from the boiler (and not just plopped on top of the boiler as it had been before), insulation around the condense pipe outside, and placing a cage around the flue due to its close proximity to the ground and our neighbours.

He also spent a good 30-45 minutes running through the new boiler and central heating controls with my husband and I. He explained the on-screen boiler controls, what to do in the event of any problems, and how to use the thermostat. He even took the time to set up our thermostatic controls to suit our needs, so we haven’t had to change anything since.

When he left, the house was just as clean as when he arrived, and he made sure to take all his rubbish with him. He also told me to keep an eye on the app, where I could see my warranty and view all my job certificates and information, like the Gas Safety Certificate, the workmanship guarantee, and even the user manuals for my new boiler and thermostat.

This is a nice touch, as this means that I don’t have to store (and potentially lose) hard copies of these. By having them in an app, I can have them to hand at all times and print them off if needed.

It’s worth noting that, throughout the process, the engineer had to take photos of his work to prove to BOXT auditors that everything had been completed to their exacting standards. About a week after the installation, I was contacted by a BOXT auditor named Sean to arrange a quick 30-minute visit to check something that had come up during the audit — but fortunately, it turned out to be an issue with an unclear photo rather than a problem with the work itself.

Nevertheless, having both the BOXT-approved engineer and a BOXT auditor verify that the work was correct and safe left me extremely confident in the process.

What’s the boiler like to use?

As I write this, I’ve been living with my boiler for a couple of weeks now. And while I didn’t think it would make that much of a difference to my central heating system, the impact was obvious.

In fact, after our first couple of showers with the new boiler, my husband and I had to change our water temperature as it was just too hot - despite the fact that it was set to the same temperature our old boiler had been set at. This was a great sign, though, as it proved that this new boiler was more efficient.

It’s also obvious that our heating system heats up faster, and the addition of the TRVs means that we can now adjust each radiator’s temperature accordingly to help save some pennies.

In the long run, I also expect a more efficient boiler to cut our energy bills further, and BOXT now has a boiler savings calculator — an interactive tool that shows how much you can save by upgrading your boiler based on your property type and the age of your current boiler.

Based on my old setup vs my new setup, I should be saving almost £10 a month on my energy bills — so I can’t wait to see that pay off, quite literally!

Is a BOXT boiler installation worth it?

I put off buying a new boiler for a long time because I thought the process would be stressful and complicated, but having BOXT on hand to handle everything made it seamless. For anyone looking to upgrade their boiler, I couldn’t recommend them highly enough.

Choosing the perfect boiler for my home took no more than 20 minutes, booking slots are wide open (even for the next day), and the installation couldn’t have been easier. The engineer and everyone I spoke to from BOXT were also extremely knowledgeable and kept me up to date on every step of the way, and I feel confident that the replacement adheres to legal requirements and is the right choice for my home.

Of course, you do need to make sure that you can dedicate at least a day to being home and allowing the engineer to do what they need to do — but that’s just part and parcel of having a new boiler installed.

If you're seeing signs you boiler needs replacing, then definitely check out BOXT's offering.

With the first frost on its way, now is the time to think about lighting your first fire of the winter. While you can burn more than just wood in a multi-fuel stove, this doesn't mean that you can burn everything.

Just like with wood-burning stove, burning the wrong fuel in your multi-fuel stove can have catastrophic effects, including: starting a chimney or roof fire; poisoning your family and pets; or inadvertently breaking the law. You could be fined up to £1,000 for burning the wrong thing.

To help, we've asked the experts for their guidance on what you can and can't burn in a multi-fuel stove, including the less obvious things you should never burn.

What can I burn on a multi-fuel stove?

As their name suggests, you can burn more than just wood logs on a multifuel stove. Options include briquettes, smokeless coal, and manufactured logs (typically made from waste wood or coffee grounds).

This means you have greater flexibility in your fuel type and are able to pivot in response to sales or discounts – making it more affordable to heat your home. However, as with anything, sometimes it's easier to know what not to burn and what to use instead with these types of burners, so you don't put a foot wrong.

What you should never burn in a multi-fuel stove

1. Paper

Newspaper is often heralded as a good alternative to firelighters, and this can work if you're in a pinch and trying to keep your house warm in the winter. However, you should keep the quantities to a minimum and only apply them to black-and-white printed newspapers. 'As tempting as it can be to throw an old newspaper on the stove, both cause soot and blacken the glass in your stove, meaning you won’t be able to enjoy watching the flames and will have more cleaning to do at the end of the season,' explains Phil Wood, UK managing director of Contura, advises against it.

Any colour printed paper should be avoided due to the chemicals and fumes released when the ink burns. 'Magazines, catalogues, and some junk mail contain chemicals that can release toxic fumes when burned. Gift wrap, construction paper, and coloured cardboard in particular often contain heavy metals in their dyes,' explains experts from Firewood Fund. 'Burning these can release toxic substances into the air.'

You should never burn large quantities of paper – news or otherwise – in your multifuel stove. 'Paper burns very quickly and can create intense, erratic flames. This can cause the stove to overheat, potentially damaging the appliance or even starting a fire in your home,' says experts from Burn Firewood. It can also cause a buildup of creosote in your chimney, which in turn increases your risk of a chimney fire.

To ensure you always have a firelighter to hand, buy in bulk. This box of 200 wood wool firelighters from Amazon is more than enough to see you through the winter.

2. Pallets

Pallets can seem like an easy and cost-effective fuel source for a stove –they are often readily available for free on sites like Freecycle.

However, many pallets – those marked MB – are treated with methyl bromide to prevent decay and infestations. When burned, methyl bromide produces highly toxic fumes which will be released into your living room and potentially seriously harm your family. The fumes will also be released into the atmosphere through the chimney, causing more environmental damage.

Some pallets are heat-treated or kiln-dried rather than being treated with methyl bromide, but these should also not be burned indoors, as you don't know what other chemicals they have come into contact with.

'Wooden pallets that are contaminated in any way, whether with paint, dirt, oil, or other unknown substances, should not be burned, as anything on the wood could be released into the air as it burns,' advises experts from Alpha Pallets.

Even if you can confirm that the wood is completely unaffected, it still doesn't make good firewood, and you shouldn't burn this type of wood in a woodburner or a multi-fuel stove. 'Pallet wood is very dry and smaller than typical firewood, meaning that any fire made using wood from pallets will burn big and hot – not what you want in an indoor fireplace. It also burns fast, so the fire will burn out quickly and need regular refilling, so you may need more wood than you expect to supply your fire,' explains experts from Alpha Pallets.

For a more cost-effective alternative, consider purchasing briquettes, like these from Lekto on Amazon – which have an 8-hour burn compared to the four hours of traditional logs. You could then put your pallets to good use and create pallet garden furniture.

3. Wet wood

Wet wood is one of the types of wood you should never use in a wood burner – and this also applies to a multi-fuel stove.

'It’s important to burn only dry wood. If wet wood is used, the smoke produced will increase maintenance and repair needs, making it harder for chimney sweeps to keep your installation in a safe, effective condition,' explains Douglas Kent, technical and research director at the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings. Burning wet wood can also increase your risk of chimney fires.

There is also an environmental cost to burning wet wood. 'Burning dry wood is also part of the solution to reducing the environmental impact of solid-fuel heating. Small retail bags of firewood logs can contain wet wood, so they are unsuitable for burning without further seasoning,' adds Douglas.

When buying logs, look for the 'Ready to Burn' logo – like these from Amazon – to ensure that they are a suitable fuel for your multi-fuel stove. ‘Using kiln-dried wood or wood with a moisture content below 20 per cent will generate the correct heat and the best flame, ensuring maximum efficiency and minimising smoke,' advises Phil Wood, UK managing director of Contura.

Always test your wood before use – a moisture meter, like this from Amazon, is an easy and cost-effective way to ensure that your wood is always dry enough to burn.

4. House coal

Go back 60 years, and coal would've been the go-to fuel for heating our homes. However, since 2023, it has been illegal to sell house coal for use in the home. This is due to concerns about the pollution it produces and the negative health implications. If you live in a smoke control area and burn house coal, you could see yourself fined £300 for emitting too much smoke.

House coal is likely too difficult to source, but it is always worth double-checking that any coal you buy is classed as Smokeless Coal – like this from Amazon – which has been deemed safe to use.

You should never burn any coal in a wood burner – coal should only be burnt in multi-fuel designs.

5. Polished, treated, painted or varnished wood

Any wood that has been treated or coated with chemicals should never be burnt. This includes waste furniture, MDF, laminate, particle board and any form of composite wood. This is because the chemical coats or glues used in the construction of these products can release toxic fumes when burnt.

Like printed paper and pallet wood, they also burn unreliably and will create a lot of smoke, increasing your risk of chimney fires.

a multi-fuel stove is a joy to have on a cold winters day when used correctly, just make sure you're taking care to only use the correct fuel in it.

When we first stood back and admired the results of the five years of hard work that had gone into the renovation and extension of our Edwardian cottage, I definitely didn't think that, seven years later, we'd be considering building an extension again.

Since we bought the house back in 2012, our needs have changed and, after fruitlessly house hunting for the past four years, we have come to the decision that we could add to and adapt what we already have.

I'm so excited that we get to stay in the village we love and, while we're still at the early, planning stages of the project, I want to share with you how we intend on taking the house from three to five bedrooms as well as adding a home office, utility and a couple of extra bathrooms.

What was the house like when we first bought it?

When we bought the house, it had three bedrooms on the first floor, but no bathroom. Oddly, there was a working toilet in one of the bedrooms, just sitting there against one wall.

Downstairs there was a tiny beige small bathroom accessed from the living room that looked as though it was last updated at some point in the 1950s. There was also a teensy weensy lean-to kitchen, with just one unit, a half-size fridge, sink and freestanding old electric cooker. In the middle of the house was a second reception room, with old quarry tiles and a monstrous tiled fireplace.

The back garden was a tangle of raspberry bushes and concrete crazy paving. There was no driveway at the front, but a very pretty cottage garden with a sweet little path leading up to the front door from a gate.

How we extended the house first time round

When we moved into the house, our two children were 16 months and two-and-a-half years old. While there were, in theory, enough bedrooms, the bathroom being downstairs was an issue, as was the size of the kitchen.

My late Dad was an architect. He drew up and submitted plans for two extensions. One two-storey addition to add a snug/fourth bedroom on the ground floor with a new bedroom upstairs. The other was a flat roofed single storey extension to give us a large, open plan kitchen diner.

The 'toilet bedroom' became a new bathroom, while the ground floor bathroom became a little shower room, also housing the washing machine.

Why we're extending again

After all that work (most of which we carried out on a DIY basis while living in the house,) it might sound like madness to start bashing it about again. And, you would be forgiven for wondering why we didn't look ahead at the time to think about our future needs. But we didn't.

Our two children are now teenagers and one bathroom between all of us just isn't working, particularly as they seem to have a constant stream of friends to stay.

We both now work from home too and with no home office or spare bedroom, having meetings without disruptions is near impossible, particularly in the school holidays. We have nowhere for friends and family to stay either.

Another bugbear is the fact that the only way to access the rest of the house from the front door is through the living room, making it feel more like a corridor than a relaxing space.

The driveway that we created from the front garden needs altering too now that our son has his sights set on a car of his own.

How we'll go from three to five bedrooms

The plans we have come up with for the extension mean we'll be able to have four double bedrooms on the first floor. The fifth, we plan on creating within a new detached annexe at the bottom of the garden.

We'll achieve this by adding a new bedroom with en suite above the flat-roofed kitchen extension we built first time round.

The bathroom will become a guest bedroom and we'll create a new family bathroom by stealing a little space between two existing adjacent bedrooms.

The airing cupboard will become a little shower room, having been relieved of its duties thanks to the creation of a new utility room on the ground floor.

Making space for the utility room

Our house is located in very rural area, we have a dog, cat, two rabbits and children who play muddy team sports. Plus, as any parent of teens will know, the laundry basket is constantly overflowing, despite the washing machine running pretty much constantly. What all this means is that we really, really need somewhere for some brilliant utility room ideas.

The kitchen protrudes out at the back of the house, while the snug is set back. We plan on squaring off this section of the house to form the utility room which will then be accessed from the kitchen through what is currently the back door.

We'll also add metal framed internal doors into the archway that is currently open between the dining area and snug. This will not only mean the snug can be used for home working when required, but also that the doors can be closed off when the washing machine is running for a little more soundproofing.

And the home office?

I long for a quiet space from which to work. Currently I hot desk it around the house, moving to avoid noise and distractions.

We plan on building a garden office – which we'll also use as an extra bedroom when the need arises. We're going to add in a shower room and little kitchenette too.

In terms of thinking about a schedule of works, I think it is a good idea to build this detached section first as it'll give us somewhere to escape a bit while work is underway.

What are the next steps?

We have some simple, initial plans, but have yet to apply for planning permission. Realistically I think that will be in the new year, although we have already found an architect.

My brother-in-law is a builder and we're hoping he'll build the extensions for us, although we're happy to undertake as much of the work ourselves as we can.

Exciting times ahead. I am itching to get started, although I fear I may conveniently have forgotten the lows of our original renovation and the realities of living on site during a project like this – the dust, the mess, the cold, the noise and, of course, the expense. Watch this space...

If, like us, you are considering building a home office in your garden, make sure to read up on garden room costs first so you know how much to budget.

If you're thinking about adding a woodburning stove to your home this winter, it's important you understand what size log burner you need to create the ultimate cosy environment.

There's a lot to consider when choosing a woodburning stove, including what kind of ventilation a log burner needs, plus the log burner building regulations you'll need to meet. But having the right size log burner is crucial. Too big and you'll overheat quickly, too small and it won't warm your space adequately.

I spoke to the stove experts to find out how you determine the right size burner for your space.

What size log burner do I need?

There are multiple reliable options to determine what size log burner is right for your home. More than the physical dimensions of the stove itself, the optimum size will come down to the appliance's heat output.

• Use a stove calculator. 'To find the best size for the space, look for a fire supplier that offers a stove calculator,' says Joanna Humphreys, Fire and Stove Specialist at Direct Stoves. 'You simply put in your room’s measurements and insulation type to find out what size log burner is best for the space.'
• Ask a reputable expert. Before you buy a woodburning stove, it's a good idea to shop around, especially in person. When you do, don't be afraid to take a list of questions to put to the showroom experts. They'll be more than happy to help you choose the right size and design for your home.
• Do your own calculation. To get an idea of the size burner you need, you can do a relatively simple calculation yourself. This is especially useful if you are looking to get a sense of how much your log burner will cost. 'Be sure to measure your room's dimensions and consider the insulation level, such as if you have carpet and double-glazed windows,' says Jon Butterworth, Director at Arada Stoves. 'To give you a starting point for finding the right stove output simply measure the room volume (width x length x height) in metres and divide the result by 14. This will give you a rough guide to the ideal kW output needed for that room.'

'Roughly you need around 1kw for 14 cubic metres,' adds Brian Athey, MD at Carron Stoves. 'This is based on average insulation, so you might need to consider adjusting this if you have excellent or poor insulation. (+/- 10% accordingly).'

Can a wood burner be too big?

It is definitely possible to choose a log burner that is too big for your home.

'Often a stove is chosen to match the fireplace, hearth or style of room it is to be fitted in, however the most important factor in choosing the right size stove is getting the right output to ensure you will not be too hot,' explains Jon. 'An oversized stove for example can overheat your space, causing discomfort and even potential fire hazards which we don’t want.'

'Choosing the right appliance is essential for comfort, efficiency and the environment,' adds Simon Bower, Technical Director at Percy Doughty. 'If the appliance is too big, the room can overheat and potentially lead to issues with the building fabric, it may encourage the user to slumber (burning the stove at a low rate for long periods) this can have a negative impact on the installation whole, particularly the chimney system...'

What happens if you choose a log burner that is too small?

Choosing a log burner that is too small has it's own set of downsides. Not only will it prevent you from creating that lovely cosy atmosphere, and leave you chilly. But it can also have a negative impact on both the appliance and your energy bills.

'If the stove is too small, it will fail to deliver the required heat needed,' says Simon. 'It will become costly because you will burn more fuel to compensate for the low heat output, and the stoves lifespan will become significantly reduced given that it will always be operating at its maximum.'

But selecting the correct size log burner can ensure you reap all the benefits and dodge the downsides. 'The aim when choosing any stove is to make sure it can run at its nominal output (its normal, efficient operating level) comfortably, maintaining the temperature it’s designed for, while working in balance with your home’s main heating system not overpowering or underperforming,' concludes Simon.

FAQs

What should you look for when choosing a woodburning stove?

In addition to the size and heat output of a log burner, there are several other factors that should be considered when making your decision.

• The type of stove. Radiant, convection, multi-fuel, boiler or pellet — there are different types of burners available, so you'll need to choose the one that's right for your home.
• Design. Log burning stoves are available in a multitude of colours, and in both traditional and contemporary styles, to suit any home.
• Efficiency. 'When it comes to the environment, an Eco Design stove, approved for use in a smoke controlled areas, in accordance with the Clearskies, or Cleaner Choice schemes means that the chosen stove meets and exceeds specific measures relating to their energy efficiency and emissions,' explains Simon.
• Building regulations. Speaking with an expert can help you understand the installation process to ensure your log burner meets the standards laid out in the building regulations.
• Local rules and requirements. If you live in a Smoke Control Area, there may be limitations on the kinds of fuel you can burn, so it's important to check this when shopping for a burner.

Are you a keen DIYer? Make sure you understand just how complex it can be to install your own log burner before you attempt it.

Thinking about installing underfloor heating at home? You're probably not alone.

Underfloor heating works by turning your floor into a heat emitter, thanks to water pipes or electric cables laid beneath the flooring. While there are both pros and cons to underfloor heating, it needs to be fitted in the right place in order for it to be a worthwhile investment.

It can be installed in any room in your home (although some installations will be easier than others, depending on whether you are choosing wet or electric underfloor heating). Making sure your home is well-insulated is key to a successful installation, but even if your insulation is up to scratch, experts say there are definitely some areas where you definitely shouldn't fit underfloor heating.

1. Under appliances

Underfloor heating in an open-plan kitchen diner is hugely desirable for many homeowners. After all, it'll free up wall space to give you loads of flexibility when it comes to furniture layout and placement of bifold or sliding doors, or even a picture window or two.

But while underfloor heating works really well in a space like this, it's important that the pipework is not laid beneath large appliances like fridge freezers, ovens and washing machines.

Putting underfloor heating beneath these appliances can cause them to overheat which can lead to damage and, in the case or fridges and freezers, cause them to use more energy to cool the items inside due to the additional heat exposure.

2. In a room where you want a thick carpet

If you love the feeling of a thick luxurious carpet beneath your feet, in your bedroom for example, then that's definitely not a spot for underfloor heating.

'Thick carpets act as an insulator on underfloor heating, especially with thick underlay, so a room where that is your objective won’t work as well as one with thin carpets or hard floors,' says Simon Bones, CEO and Founder at Genous.

If you heart is set on it though, make sure you choose a floorcovering that works well with underfloor heating — and you'll be pleased to know that carpet isn't entirely vetoed.

3. Under fitted furniture

Another spot that should be avoided when laying pipework for underfloor heating is beneath where fitted furniture is going to stand.

'Wet UFH is suitable for most areas of a home, but there are certain spaces where installation may cause issues, or the systems may not run as efficiently,' explains Ben Perris, Head of Sales for Indoor Climate Solutions at Wavin. 'Rooms with fixed furniture, such as fully fitted kitchens or walk-in wardrobes, limit usable heated floor area and can cause uneven heating.'

In addition to potentially causing the system to overheat, it's also possible that the pipework could be damaged when fitting the fixed units, which could then be very disruptive to fix.

It's much better to focus the pipework beneath open spaces so the heat generated can be more effective, rather than heating things kept in a cupboard.

4. Ba cautious with basements and wet rooms

So technically, this point isn't about not installing underfloor heating in these places entirely, it's more about exercising caution when doing so. While you can put underfloor heating in a basement or wet room, it may require special attention to ensure it runs most efficiently.

Ben explains: 'High-moisture spaces like basements or wet rooms can be tricky for wet UFH if they don't have proper insulation or vapour control. Without these, you might run into issues like condensation or poor efficiency.'

Knowing how to insulate a basement properly will help you if you want to install underfloor heating as part of a basement conversion project.

FAQs

Now you know where not to opt for this kind of heat emitter, you should also check out the things experts want you to know before you install underfloor heating.

If you're considering adding underfloor heating to your home, you'll need to have a clear understanding of what underfloor heating runs off to ensure you're using the most suitable heat source.

Underfloor heating is a popular choice for renovators and extenders alike. One of the main pros of underfloor heating is its energy efficiency, and choosing the right source of heat for this kind of emitter can help you boost that efficiency, reducing both your energy usage and your bills.

But what are the options when it comes to a heat source for underfloor heating, what should be considered, and which is best? I asked underfloor heating experts to find out.

What does underfloor heating run on?

When it comes to what underfloor heating runs off, the answer will depend on the type of system in question — wet or dry.

With dry (also known as electric) underfloor heating, the answer is clear cut. 'Electric underfloor heating comes off your electricity supply, and can be partly supplied by any solar panels you have (though your solar panels tend not to be that productive in the winter when you want your underfloor heating on!),' says Simon Bones, CEO and Founder at Genous.

When it comes to wet underfloor heating, it's closer to a traditional heating system, as Simon explains: 'Wet systems just work like radiators, except the warm water is pumped under your floor in coiled pipework rather than through a radiator, and the flow temperature tends to be lower (both because the floor is a bigger area so emits more heat than a small radiator at a given temperature and because otherwise you’d burn your feet!).'

'Wet UFH systems can be powered by several heat sources, including gas boilers, electric boilers and heat pumps,' continues Ben Perris, Head of Sales for Indoor Climate Solutions at Wavin. 'The best choice for your home can depend on a variety of factors such as the existing heating system, floor insulation levels, available space, budget, and your sustainability goals.'

What's the best heat source for underfloor heating?

While electricity is your only option for electric underfloor heating, the options for wet underfloor heating can leave you wondering which one is best. And the experts I spoke to unanimously agreed that a heat pump is the best heat source for wet underfloor heating.

'The most energy efficient choice of heat source to run with water underfloor heating is a heat pump, and likely a ground source heat pump, or one that uses a communal ground loop due to its seasonal stability,' says Sam Jump, Head of Business Development at Wunda Group PLC. 'When paired with low temperature heating systems like underfloor heating heat pumps are far more efficient than boilers because they can run at their optimum low temperature and deliver maximum efficiency.

'Heat pumps move heat from one place to another (from the ground or outside air), rather than generating all the heat from fuel or electricity. Heat pumps use on average one unit of energy to move 3 - 6 units of thermal energy. Compared to a traditional boiler that uses one unit of energy to make at best 0.95 units of heat.'

However, if you are looking to keep your upfront underfloor heating costs as low as possible, you can still use your boiler and still benefit from some improved efficiency. Sam explains: 'Pairing a boiler with an underfloor heating system can also improve the boilers efficiency, as the boiler can be turned down to a lower flow temperature than radiators allowing condensing boilers to work in condensing mode.'

On the other hand, if you have the budget and want to maximise the efficiency of your heating system by swapping to a heat pump, you may need to make extra considerations. Simon warns: 'If you’re only putting underfloor [heating] in some of the home, though, you normally need to upgrade some of the radiators in the rest to benefit from the heat pump to the greatest extent possible.'

Read our guide if you want to know more about how efficient underfloor heating is.

Log burners hold wide appeal, especially now as the temperatures start to drop and the darker nights roll in. But if you have plans to add one to your home, you'll need to make sure you nail the ventilation for your log burner to ensure it works properly and safely.

Ventilation is a key part of the building regulations for log burners. Adequate air supply is needed for your burner's fuel to burn effectively, but also to ensure any smoke is carefully expelled rather than wafting back into your home.

To help you get it right, I asked the experts why adequate ventilation is so important, what's required and what the consequences can be of getting it wrong.

Why is log burner ventilation so important?

If you are considering installing a log burner, and want it to work most effectively and without danger to your home or your health, it's important you get the ventilation right. 'Modern homes, especially new build houses or those with airtight insulation and double glazing, are particularly prone to insufficient ventilation, so this must be a key consideration when planning to install a wood burning stove in these property archetypes,' states Simon Bower, Technical Director at Percy Doughty.

'Ventilation is extremely important when installing your appliance, for its safe operation, the environment, and the prevention of dangerous gases, in particular carbon monoxide building up in the room, in the event of a spillage when the chimney is under performing. This occurs, when through reduced combustion air flow, the chimney will fail to draw correctly causing the stove to spill products of combustion into the room.'

What ventilation do you need for a log burner?

'All stoves require proper ventilation to ensure they burn efficiently, safely and correctly, explains Jon Butterworth, Director at Arada Stoves. 'Any wood burner which is over 5kW must have a permanently open ventilation kit or air brick installed in the room to ensure adequate air flow to the stove. This is especially the case for new build or airtight properties which tend to be very well insulated and therefore require a permanent air vent which is open to the outside.'

This is more than a nice to have too — the requirements are actually set out in the building regulations.

Approved Document J, which is to do with combustion appliances and fuel storage, sets out rules around air supply and the discharging of products of combustion (which is essentially safely getting the smoke out of your home), as well as ensuring the materials used for hearths, fireplaces, fluepipes and chimneys are suitable.

The guidelines state that there should be sufficient air supply to allow the fuel to burn properly, to cool the log burner where necessary, and to ensure there is no hazard to health from the smoke the log burner may make. Simon adds: 'To comply with the Building Regulations, it is necessary both to follow the correct procedures and meet technical performance requirements for ventilation when it comes to combustion appliances.' Manufacturers instructions should also be followed, as they may state requirements further to the building regs.

Simon goes on to say: 'Any purpose provided ventilation should be permanent, and cannot be closed, it should be installed to provide air from outside and not another room, and with some appliances the stove can be installed with a sealed supply duct directly attached to the appliance, typically this would be known as a direct air supply.

'In all instances an approved solid fuel engineer registered with the appropriate competent persons scheme will be best placed to advise on the requirement in each instance.'

What can happen if you get log burner ventilation wrong?

While not following the correct ventilation guidance will mean that your log burner doesn't work properly, it can also mean that using your appliance could pose a significant risk to your home and your health.

'Fire is a chemical reaction when fuel (wood or coal) and oxygen in the atmosphere are ignited,' explains Joanna Humphreys, Fire and Stove Specialist at Direct Stoves. 'Without sufficient amounts of either fuel or oxygen the fire will gradually go out. Chimneys work when an up-draught caused by the difference in temperature between the gases from the fire and the atmosphere outside draws the air up through the flue.

'At the same time fresh air for combustion is drawn into the stove. If too much air flows up the chimney your house will start to depressurise. When a space becomes depressurised it wants to replace the air from any available source – through windows or doors or even from the chimney. This causes the smoke to come back into your home rather than escaping as it should.'

Simon continues saying: 'When the ventilation is incorrect or undersized, emissions can be increased through incomplete combustion, air quality can become compromised and the risk of the build up of soot, smoke, and creosote increases.'

FAQs

How to make sure you get log burner ventilation right

To ensure you get the right ventilation in place for your log burner, it's best to engage the help of a professional. This can also help streamline the building regs process.

If the professional is registered as Competent Person (a Department for Levelling Up, Housing and Communities-approved scheme), then they can self-certify their work and issue a compliance certificate once the work is complete.

Installing your own log burner is not for the faint of heart. Beyond that, meeting the building regs requirements can be complicated, so it's best to get a professional to install it for you.

In the four years since we first put our house on the market, we've sold it twice, viewed more houses than I can count, considered finding a house to share with our elderly parents, toyed with the idea of renting and even thought about relocating.

Yet, here we still are, living in the same three-bedroom Edwardian semi that we bought back in 2012 as a complete wreck. Granted, it has been totally transformed since then thanks to an extensive extension, renovation and remodelling process that took around five years, but in the years between, our needs have totally changed.

It's not like I don't know how to sell a house, I've done it before. So, just why are we still here despite outgrowing it many years ago? What has prevented us from moving onto a new project, and why oh why are we putting up with daily teenage bathroom arguments on the landing? Let me explain...

Why haven't we managed to find a new house?

I'm not denying that my husband and I are amongst the most indecisive people I know, but this alone is not why we haven't managed to find a house we both love and moved on.

When we first put our house on the market back in 2021, we sold it for just over the asking price within a week. We then spent an entire year searching for a new house, even popping letters through doors of houses we loved the look of. We viewed so many houses – honestly. But none of them were 'quite right'.

Sometimes the garden was too small, other times the road was too noisy. A few needed too much work to make them liveable, while others didn't need enough. One that we really loved turned out to have terrible subsidence. Ceilings that were too low, overlooking, schools next door – you name it, we've seen it.

Eventually our buyers would get fed up with waiting and the whole process would begin again. The ironic thing is, during the periods when we didn't have a buyer, we twice found houses we fell head-over-heels with but had our offers rejected on the basis that we weren't proceedable. What makes me feel a little better is that, according to Kelvin Elliott, property expert at Property Sale Watchdog, we're not alone in our fruitless house hunt.

'For families who currently live in desirable locations, with children in popular schools and close to transport links and amenities, there may be limited options to choose from when searching for a larger home within the same catchment area,' says Kelvin. 'Not only may there be fewer properties on the market, but the competition between buyers means the properties sell incredibly fast, and can often end up selling above the asking price. Extending removes any insecurities of finding a bigger home in the right location.'

What made us decide to stay put?

We have always loved our house. The pretty little village is both rural yet well-connected to several beautiful towns. We have friends all around us – and so do the children, who have done all their growing up to date here.

The house itself has such a 'good feel' (even guests comment on it) and it has become the hub for all of our two teenagers' friends to gather, despite being smaller than many of their homes. The garden is a really good size and the views are to die for.

In the last year or so, we began to toy with the idea that perhaps there was a way that we could stay in our house by extending, and make changes that would mean it meets all our current needs. It seems we are not alone in deciding to stay put either.

'Extending or renovating makes perfect sense for homeowners who love their area but need more space,' says Liam Gretton, founder at Liam Gretton Estate Agents. 'Right now, in the current market we're in, with higher interest rates and a slower pace of sales in some areas, we’ve seen more people choose to invest in what they already have. It’s a way to add value, avoid stamp duty, and sidestep the stress of moving home.'

Why did we want to move in the first place?

Yes, we love our house, but it has started to feel really cramped lately. Having one bathroom upstairs (there is a shower room downstairs) is a constant source of frustration with two teens, and we have no guest room for family to come and stay. We both work from home and there is no home office – plus we have pets and no utility room.

On the whole, the ground floor is pretty spacious, but you have to walk through the living room from the entrance hall to get to the rest of the house, which isn't ideal and makes it feel like a throughfare as opposed to a cosy, self-contained room.

It is upstairs that is the real problem though. The landing is like the central aisle of an aeroplane – and a small one at that. Seriously, two people can't pass without getting all touchy feely.

What changes are we planning on making?

When we decided to take the house off the market, I admit I breathed a sigh of relief. The years of manically tidying up for viewings and the constant disappointment of unsuccessful bids had begun to take its toll on us all.

We already had some rough ideas of how we could add space, but asked a couple of architects to come and assess the house and give some suggestions.

One said it wouldn't be worth the cost and effort for the value we'd add and the space we'd gain. However, the other was really positive and came up with some ideas we hadn't thought of.

In short, we plan on going up over the flat roofed kitchen extension to add another bedroom upstairs, turning the bathroom into a guest bedroom and stealing space from two existing double bedrooms to make an en suite and family bathroom. We're also considering using the airing cupboard as a little shower room en suite.

Downstairs, we'll reroute the hallway – so that we don't have to use the living room to access the rest of the rooms – and then build onto the side extension to square off the house in order to give us the utility we crave. There'll also be a fair bit of internal remodelling going on to give us the home office we need.

Sound simple doesn't it...?

The next steps?

While we are nowhere near breaking ground on the project, it feels good to have made the decision to stay put and expand on what we already have.

Before applying for planning permission we are going to speak to our neighbours on either side. In the case of our attached neighbours, we'll need to discuss a party wall agreement – and it just seems courteous to have a chat with the neighbours the other side about the plans. Thankfully we get on well with both (hopefully that will continue as things progress!)

Next it'll be onto the planning stages, as well as working out a budget for the work and timescales.

Exciting times ahead then – and I'll be sure to keep you posted on the progress so that, if you too are considering extending your home, you can see what's in store.

FAQs

Is extending a better idea than moving right now?

If, like me, you have been struggling to sell your home and buy a new one in order to gain the extra space you crave, I have some advice from the experts I spoke to that might just help you come to a decision.

'Ultimately, I always advise clients to look at both the emotional and financial return,' picks up Liam Gretton. 'Will an extension truly give you what you need? Will it add genuine resale value (and this is a huge factor to consider), or does it just suit your current needs? Equally, if you sold, would you realistically find something better within budget and the market conditions?'

'The cost of moving house is far from insignificant, when considering the estate agent and solicitor fees, stamp duty, surveys and even the price of moving companies,' adds Kevin Elliot. 'Added together, the sum can end up being thousands of pounds, which, instead of being used for moving house, could be invested in the existing property and put towards the cost of an extension.'

'In some cases, the smart move is staying put and extending,' summarises Liam Gretton. 'In others, no amount of building work will give you what a new home could. That’s why it's important to assess both routes carefully.'

If you are struggling for space but keen to avoid upping sticks and moving, there are extension ideas for every budget to consider – you might find you have been sitting on the space you need the whole time.