According to the Met Office, the UK has had an 'exceptionally wet' start to the year, with some locations seeing 40 consecutive days of wet weather.

While this can feel pretty miserable, this heavy rainfall can also wreak havoc with our homes, highlighting any vulnerabilities in the property's shell, leading to signs of leaks and water ingress. Left unchecked, this can lead to long term issues of damp and condensation that can be costly and time consuming to resolve.

That's why it's important check for signs of water entering your home during periods of heavy rain so that the issue can be rectified before too much damage is done. I asked the pros about the kind of damage heavy rain can cause, the signs you should look out for, as well as why your roof might have started leaking.

What kind of damage can heavy rain cause to a property?

'Heavy rain rarely causes problems on its own,' explains Sam Fitzgerald, founder of the Federation of Damp. 'What it usually does is expose weaknesses that were already there. This could be a small defect in roof coverings, blocked or overflowing gutters, failed seals around windows, or underlying ventilation issues inside the home.'

Extreme rainfall will also test your home's water resilience, revealing vulnerabilities in roofing, walls, and foundations says architectural designer and owner of Online Drawing UK, Chris Lawson: 'Saturated soil can push against basement walls, resulting in seepage or cracks. Poorly maintained brickwork and pointing can allow moisture to penetrate, leading to internal damp and plaster damage.

'Windows, doors, and external joinery are also susceptible, particularly if seals have degraded over time. Repeated exposure to water can weaken timber elements and promote the growth of mould and mildew. Beyond visible damage, water can undermine insulation and electrical systems, creating both comfort and safety hazards.'

This damage can be extensive so it's crucial that you keep your eyes peeled for early warning signs so that you can tackle them before they get too bad.

What are the warning signs of water ingress?

There are a few tell-tale signs that you should look out for, both inside and out, during and after heavy rain that will give you an indication that something untoward is going on.

Inside

• Brown water stains on ceilings and walls
• Peeling paint or wallpaper
• Pooling water on window sills and around skirting boards
• Unusual musty smells
• Sudden onset of condensation

'After heavy rainfall, homeowners should look out for water marks on ceilings or walls, drips, musty smells or a sudden increase in condensation,' says Sam. 'These are often signs of an issue that has been developing quietly over time and needs proper investigation, rather than a quick cosmetic fix.'

Outside

• Sagging guttering
• Persistent drips after the rain has stopped
• Dark patches on brickwork
• Green algae on your home's exterior walls

How to fix damage caused by heavy rain

'Solutions vary depending on severity: patching and resealing small leaks may suffice, while more extensive damp may require re-plastering with damp-resistant materials or installing proper drainage channels,' advises Chris. 'Monitoring these areas immediately after heavy rain allows homeowners to act before the problem escalates.'

While some issues may be easily resolved on a DIY basis, such as failing sealant around a window frame, water marks on the ceiling (once the source of the leak has been found and rectified) or clearing out gutters, other issues, like fixing damaged roof tiles or replacing soggy loft insulation are best left to the professionals.

You could also try Nancy Birtwhistle’s hack to get rid of water marks on walls too.

Why does my roof leak after heavy rain?

In many instances, signs off water ingress in your home will stem from an issue with your roof, so regular roof maintenance is key to keep problems at bay.

'During periods of heavy rain, your roof will be right in the firing line - so it’s here that problems tend to crop up first,' says Phil Spencer, property expert and founder of the property advice website Move iQ. 'Whether the sheer volume of water falling onto the roof causes a brand new leak or just worsens an existing leak isn’t really the issue. What matters is the damage it does.

'Whenever rainwater gets into your home, whether that’s the attic or the living areas, it can cause a range of problems from peeling paint to damp, rot and mould. Over time, periods of heavy rain can also worsen existing problems like subsidence, which tends to happen when soil repeatedly gets wet and dries out.'

But it's not just the roof tiles that could be the culprit. 'Blocked gutters can also play a big role,' says James Ginley, Director of Technical Surveying at e.surv. 'When water can’t drain properly, it can back up under roof coverings or overflow down walls, creating leaks that may appear long after the initial rainfall has passed.'

'It’s quite common for older buildings to develop roof issues, ' explains Phil. 'Materials like felt and tiles slowly degrade over time, and water has a way of finding its way into any cracks or weak spots. However leaks can crop up suddenly if you lose a roof tile in a storm or repairs are done with the wrong materials.

'If you see any evidence of a leak, don’t delay. Find a local tradesperson who has experience of working on similar properties, and ask them to assess and fix the problem quickly.'

Fortunately, it's doesn't necessarily mean you'll need to replace your roof in order to solve the problem of water ingress. 'A leak in itself is not a disaster, but if you don’t deal with it promptly it can cause structural issues that may reduce the value of your home. The fix depends on the cause; it could mean replacing tiles, fixing gutters, or addressing drainage issues.'

FAQs

What should you do if you find a leak in your roof?

If you do happen to notice a leak from your roof, there are steps you can take to minimise the risk of further damage while you wait for a professional.

• Move any belongings out of the way. However, if the water is leaking on to insulation, don't move it without wearing the correct PPE otherwise it could be very hazardous to your health.
• Try to contain the water, if possible. Buckets, saucepans, Tupperware, whatever you can get your hands on will help limit the impact of the leak.
• Get photographic evidence. 'Document what you can with images or video in case you need them for an insurance claim and can also help a tradesperson diagnose the issue,' advises Alex Peters, a cost guide expert at Checkatrade.

Should you discover a lot of water damage, it's worthwhile checking whether a leak will be covered by your home insurance and whether you insurer can help you cover the cost of repairs.

With autumn temperatures setting in and the days drawing shorter, it's no wonder our attention is turning towards making sure our homes are set up to keep us warm. If you've noticed you have a cold wall, then you might need to take a look at how it's insulated, but can you insulate a cold wall from the inside and how do you do it?

Knowing how to insulate your home is essential if you want it to remain comfortable throughout the colder months, as is being able to spot the signs your insulation needs replacing.

But once you've seen (or felt) those warning signs, what do you do about it? I asked the experts for their tips on how you can tackle the issue from the inside, and what you need to be wary of to ensure it's done properly.

How can you insulate a cold wall from the inside?

The steps you'll need to follow to insulate a cold wall from the inside will depend on a few different factors including what type of wall you have, what's causing the problem and what your budget is.

'The first thing to work out is whether the existing external walls are solid or if they have a cavity,' explains Níall Hedderman from Real Life Architecture, 'because the type of insulation that can be applied will vary depending on how that wall was built.'

George Edwards, Managing Director of Timberwise, continues saying: 'Cold walls are a common problem that can indicate an issue with the construction of the property, such as cavity wall insulation problems.' As cold walls can create the ideal environment for damp, he suggests that you should check for signs of damp before you even think about tackling the insulation side of things.

'It is essential to treat this first, if there is a problem or the potential for one. You might think about booking an appointment for an inspection by an expert who can advise if any action is required.'

Once you have identified the type of wall you have and ruled out any damp issues, you can look at the insulation options. Remember that adding any kind of internal wall insulation will affect the dimensions of the room it's installed in.

But there are a couple of options that are worth considering.

1. Add insulation boards. 'For a more professional and overall effective approach, you should think about insulation boards,' says Paul Kerr at Beatsons Building Supplies. 'This can be a DIY project in small rooms, but for large spaces and longevity in the job, a professional should be brought on. Attaching a rigid foam or mineral wool board to the wall and covering it with plasterboard will provide adequate insulation. You can also use a spray foam under a plasterboard for a similar effect, though this is normally a task for a professional, to avoid gaps/mistakes that shorten the product's longevity.'
2. Try insulating wall coverings. 'For those operating on a shoestring budget or who would like to approach the job in a more DIY way, you can think about insulating wall covers,' says Paul. 'This isn't as effective as installing boards/foam under plasterboards, but can be a short-term technique.' You could also try applying a thermal lining paper to your walls to help reduce heat loss.
3. Apply thermal paint. While not as effective as improving the insulation of the wall itself, using thermal paint could be an inexpensive short-term solution. Don't worry if you can't find your ideal colour, in many cases you can paint over the top of thermal paint with your chosen colour and finish.

What's the best method for homeowners to use?

The best method for insulating a cold wall from the inside will depend on your specific property, so it's always worthwhile getting advice from a qualified specialist.

If you can, opt for a long-term solution, which may cost more upfront, but will be the most effective. This will vary depending on the age and construction of your home, but could involve replacing existing insulation that may be starting to fail, or adding insulation where there is none.

Shorter term solutions, like wall hangings or thermal paint, may be less expensive upfront, but won't be as impactful on the overall temperature of your room as an option that gets to the root of the problem and solves it. As such, you could see yourself spending more on these more affordable solutions over all.

Pitfalls to watch out for when insulating a cold wall

Incorrectly installing insulation could cause more problems than it solves, so it's crucial it's done properly.

If you have cavity walls, then the best course of action may be to add (or replace) the insulation in the cavity itself as opposed to on the internal wall. With solid walls, you will need to ensure you don't inadvertently trap moisture between the insulation and the wall, which could lead to damp and mould.

If you do decide on internal wall insulation (IWI) then you'll also need to be fully aware of the challenges that come along with this. 'IWI will reduce useable floor space, require the removal and refitting of internal services, such as skirting, plug sockets, switches, and radiators, etc),' explains Chris Knights, Business Manager - Building Performance Evaluation, at BSRIA. 'In addition, continuity of insulation may be difficult to achieve in areas such as the void between floors. It is, therefore, imperative that condensation risk is adequately managed, poor detailing can lead to moisture within the structure and in turn mould.'

Depending on the scope of your work, there may also be building regulations requirements that you need to meet, where expert advice will be invaluable, as Chris says: 'You should always seek specialist advice to ensure that you will achieve a thermally efficient and safe outcome. Independent experts can measure the performance before and after improvements, helping to guide design choices and make sure changes really work, without causing problems in other parts of your home.'

FAQs

Why is my wall cold?

There could be many reasons your wall is cold, so you might need to do some investigating with the help of a professional to identify the cause in your specific circumstances.

But it's likely to be one of these three main causes:

• Your existing wall insulation has failed, or it is non-existent
• You have an issue with damp and condensation, which could be caused my moisture penetration or ineffective ventilation
• There are air leaks around windows, doors, vents or electrical outlets, causing draughts.

Remember to prevent condensation and get rid of damp before you tackle the insulation so that you don't inadvertently cause further problems.

If your home improvement plans involve making changes to existing walls, you'll need to understand what kind of walls you are dealing with, especially as homes are built with multiple different types. Depending on the age and construction of your home, you may be dealing with a cavity wall. But how can you know for sure?

The exact process of removing or altering a wall varies based on the type of wall you have and whether it is a load-bearing wall or not. And so it's crucial that you correctly identify the type of wall you have so that work can be carried out safely.

In the case of cavity walls, I asked the pros your burning questions, including how you can identify one, whether they are load-bearing and if they can be altered or removed.

What is a cavity wall?

'A cavity wall is a wall that is made up from one outer brick wall, an inner brick or concrete block, with a cavity (space) in between them,' explains Mark Irving, building expert at Build & Plumb. 'The idea of a cavity wall is to provide a barrier between the interior and exterior of a property, to prevent dampness and provide insulation.'

Given their purpose, your cavity walls will be your home's exterior walls, rather than a partition wall between rooms.

Architect Níall Hedderman from Capital A Architecture adds: 'The whole point of building a cavity is that the outer part of the wall can get soaked in the rain while the inner part remains dry. Water can't get across the cavity and eventually drains out through the weep holes.

'Modern homes regularly have insulation fitted in the cavity during construction but it usually doesn't fill the entire cavity. An air gap is left to make sure water can escape out through the weep holes.'

How do you identify a cavity wall?

Not all external walls will be cavity walls, and the best way to check is to ask a trusted builder who will be able to confirm what kind of wall you are dealing with.

But for your own curiosity, there are some clues that you can look out for to try and identify a cavity wall yourself.

'A cavity wall can be built using any type of masonry; brick, block or stone and the outer surface can be coated in render, harling or pebbledash,' explains Níall. 'So it isn't possible to tell at a glance whether a wall is solid or has a cavity, but there are some tell tale signs.

'First off the age of the building, if a home was built after the 1920s it is far more likely to have a cavity wall.

'Second, look for weep holes. These are gaps at regular intervals between the bricks, usually at the bottom of the wall and sometimes also above windows or doors. The gap is about the same size as the short edge of your mobile phone and in modern homes they are made from plastic. Weep holes exist to allow moisture to escape from the cavity.'

The thickness of the wall can also be a useful indicator, but it's not an exact science, says Mark: 'An often obvious clue is the wall thickness, as cavity walls are generally thicker than other wall types. However, this really depends on the age of the house. Older, solid walls can be thicker than cavity walls.'

Can you knock down or alter a cavity wall?

It is possible to alter or knock down a cavity wall, but you'll need to make sure you employ a professional to do it for you.

Whether you are adding in a new external doorway, or knocking through while building an extension, professional input is required to ensure the changes are made safely.

Tackling this job on a DIY basis to save money will be a false economy, and the risk of causing serious damage to your home is too high to chance it.

FAQs

Are cavity walls load-bearing?

While the outer skin of the cavity wall is largely decorative, the inner skin is load-bearing and, as with any load-bearing wall, you will need an experience builder and a structural engineer, who will determine what size and type of beam you need to support the weight of the structure above.

This will need to adhere to the building regulations too, which means you will need to apply and have the work inspected at various points. If altering the wall is the only work you're doing, then a submitting a Building Notice should be fine, but if the wall is being removed as part of a larger extension project, you may need to submit a Full Plans application instead. Your local authority's Building Control department will be able to confirm if you are unsure.

If you're planning on altering or removing a wall for the first time, heed the advice from a seasoned renovator and the lessons she's learned while knocking down walls.

Whether you're taking on a whole house renovation, adding an extension, or simply sprucing up the space you have, they'll be some tasks you'll gladly leave to a professional, and others that you may be willing to try out yourself.

Patching up holes or cracks in plaster is one of those jobs that can often fall into a DIYers remit.

But while it might seem like an incredible simple task, not knowing how to do it properly could leave you with a recurring problem rather than a permanent solution. Serial renovator and fellow homes journalist Laura Crombie shared how she learned this lesson the hard way and what she does now to resolve wall cracks quickly and effectively.

'How I discovered how to correctly fill cracks in walls'

'My husband and I have been renovating our four-bed property in Worcestershire for the last five years and we've done the majority of it ourselves to help stretch our budget as far as it can go.

'While we've taught ourselves loads of skills from YouTube videos, there's plenty that we've learned through trial and error. And one of those main lessons is around how to deal with hairline cracks in the wall.

'Initially, it seemed really simple and straightforward. We'd just fill the cracks with Polyfilla, leave it to dry, sand it down then paint over it. But then frustratingly, we'd see them come back again. It was so disappointing, especially in a room we thought we'd finished.

'After a bit more research and advice from friends, we now know you get a better result if you scrape any loose debris out of the crack, and in fact make it a little bit bigger, before filling it. By making the crack bigger and making sure it's clear of any debris, you give the filler a much better surface to stick to, which makes it more effective. This step was a little bit messy, so make sure you have a vacuum handy, especially if, like us, you're trying to do this with two small kids running around.

'Since we've tried this new method though, the cracks haven't come back. Result! My advice to anyone tackling a similar task in their home is to not cut corners. We learned the hard way, but are so relieved we've nailed it now.'

We've used the same method to fill any holes in the wall too.

Having the right tools and materials for the job is vital too.

Remember, before you tackle something like this, you should check whether the cracks in your walls are something to worry about (like signs of subsidence) or whether they are largely cosmetic.

If the crack is indicative of something more serious, it's best to resolve the issue with a professional to prevent it from getting worse, rather than filling it on a surface level and hoping for the best.

Adding more space is top of the wish list for many homeowners, whether it's an extra bedroom or a larger, more open living area.

While building an extension is an obvious solution, it's not always practical. The cost can be prohibitive for a lot of people, not everyone wants to lose valuable outside space, and for those who live in a designated zone like a Conservation Area may find the planning permission process off putting.

Tactical decorating is another option people can try, using colour as well as furniture choice and placement to make your home feel bigger without any structural work. But sometimes this isn't enough.

Fortunately, there are various expert-rated options that fall somewhere between the two, that could give you additional square footage where you need it, without having to change your home's overall size.

1. Knock down internal walls

A brilliant way to make your home feel bigger is to get rid of the things making it feel small — the walls. Removing internal walls can improve the flow and functionality of your home, making it much better suited to modern life.

'Open-plan living has become a modern-day dream for many homeowners, as it promises brighter spaces, better flow, and a more sociable layout,' says Paul Kerr, a building and landscaping specialist working with Beatsons. ' Taking down internal living room/kitchen walls is one of the most popular requests we've seen new homeowners make when moving.

'The advantages include opening up cramped spaces, bringing in natural light, and improving the functionality of the space, making it easy for people to move through and between rooms.'

If going open plan isn't your cup of tea, fortunately, there's no rule to say you have to remove a wall entirely. Even adding a new doorway can transform how you live in your home. Sometimes too it's not just about removing the wall, it's about knocking one down and putting another one up elsewhere. This can be particularly useful if you want to keep a layout of separate rooms, but want to change their proportions.

But before you start swinging a sledgehammer, it's crucial you find out what type of wall you are dealing with. A partition wall can usually be removed without too much hassle, but to remove a load-bearing wall, you'll need professional input and sign off from your local building control department.

2. Convert underused space

Before you even think about extending, it's prudent to identify any existing underused space that could be better used as living space.

A loft conversion is a good option if you are in need of an additional bedroom, while a garage conversion can help free up space on the ground floor. When it comes to converting an attached or integral garage, knocking down the walls around it can help incorporate this bonus square footage in to the rest of the floorplan, rather than leaving it as a separate and, in the case of single garages, narrow standalone room.

If you don't have a loft or garage that can be converted, all is not lost, as Claire Duncan from Inspirational Interiors, a verified Checkatrade member, explains: 'On a smaller scale, consider whether you have dead space beneath the stairs that you could utilise. Many of these spaces are bigger than you might think and can have untapped potential. You could create a small office area, storage space which could replace furniture elsewhere, or even a ground floor toilet.

'These small spaces can make a huge difference to the overall feel of your home. To achieve the best results, always consult experienced professionals who can guide you on planning, design and building regulations.'

3. Repurpose rooms

To get more space where you need it, it's worth taking a step back and trying to imagine the rooms as a blank slate, and see how you would lay out your home if you could start from scratch.

Maybe what's currently a larger and hardly-used living room would be better as a kitchen diner, or a spare bedroom a better size for a family bathroom.

However, moving plumbing services can be costly, so it's important to weigh this plan against the cost of an extension to see which is the most cost-effective option.

4. Bring in more natural light

To give the illusion of a bigger and brighter home, without changing the layout or adding extra space, increase the amount of natural light that flows in.

Whether it's swapping thick framed patio doors for some thin-framed sliding doors, adding some fixed glazing, or choosing a different type of window, bringing in more daylight is a sure fire way to make a small and dark home feel more spacious.

For maximum impact, knock down internal walls at the same time to ensure that daylight finds its way right to the centre of your property. If your home's existing structure allows for it, adding a roof window will maximise the amount of natural light you get each day. During the summer months, this can have the added benefit of reducing your reliance on artificial lighting which can lower your energy bills.

If clutter is also making your home feel a bit claustrophobic, then make sure you try this decluttering checklist to clear out what you no longer need.

EDITOR’S NOTE: An earlier version of this article included a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote has been removed. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

If you're planning on undertaking significant renovation work at home for the first time, then it's incredibly helpful to know the errors to dodge so that your project runs smoothly. And while there are a few mistakes to avoid when you knock down walls and remodel your home's internal layout, they all stem from one major blunder — a failure to prepare effectively.

Knowing how to remove an internal wall is essential if you want to rework your home's configuration so that it's better suited to modern life. But while this renovation project can be transformative, it also has potential to go horribly wrong, especially if you are dealing with a load-bearing wall.

To help ensure project success, I asked design and building pros about the one mistake that homeowners should avoid when knocking down or altering walls, and it turns out, they all agree that this gaffe is the one to be avoided at all costs.

What's the worst mistake you can make when knocking down internal walls?

Improper planning is the worst mistake you can make when knocking down internal walls, and it can have far reaching consequences. So it's crucial that you plan carefully, and use the advice and skills of professionals to avoid these common pitfalls:

• You knock down the wrong wall. 'You should always take time to plan the potential new layout (with professional advice) and how it can be designed,' says Paul Kerr, a building and landscaping specialist at Beatsons. You might have your sights set on removing a specific wall, but expert design input might actually highlight another wall as the one to remove, that could open up your layout in a way you hadn't predicted.
• You knock it down when you should have just altered it. Not all walls need to be removed in their entirety. It might be that by opening up part of the wall, or adding a new doorway is all you need to solve any flow or lack of light issues.
• You fail to check if it's load-bearing. Removing a load-bearing wall without the proper process in place could be disastrous and incredibly costly. 'You have to be certain the structure of the building isn't compromised, and should always seek professional advice and support on which walls are load-bearing and which are not,' adds Paul.

• You overlook hidden services. You should always check if there are pipes or electrical wires located inside the wall, even if it isn't load bearing. To help, this Amazon stud finder wall scanner (£24.69) is essential. Once you've located the pipes and wires, make sure they are decommissioned before you start removing the wall.
• You underestimate the disruption it causes. 'Removing a wall can cause significant dust and mess, so preparation is key. Use dust sheets, seal off adjoining rooms and consider temporary ventilation or filtration to protect finishes,' advises interior designer Susie Pfeiffer from Pfeiffer Design.
• You forget about the finishing touches. Before you knock down the wall, you'll need to plan the finishing touches that will make the space look complete. This could be anything from coving and skirting boards to flooring and furniture placement. Ignoring this preparatory step could leave you with a lack lustre finish and a space that doesn't quite feel right.
• You budget inaccurately. Not all walls are the same, and as such, there's no one price-fits-all. Knocking down a non load-bearing partition wall is going to be more cost-effective than removing one that is acting as a structural support. So make sure you understand exactly what your wall removal plans entail so you can allocate funds accordingly. Use our guide to how much it costs to remove an internal wall to help.

To help boost your confidence of taking on a project like this, heed the advice of a serial renovator and the lessons she learned from knocking down walls on a DIY basis.

EDITOR’S NOTE: An earlier version of this article included a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote has been removed. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

If your home's current layout isn't working for your lifestyle, then it may be a good idea to remodel the space by knocking down or altering some internal walls. But this requires careful consideration, as if you get it wrong, you could be creating more problems than you solve.

Removing internal walls is a popular way to make your home better suited to modern life. It can make a home feel brighter and more spacious, which makes it particularly appealing to those who can't afford or don't want to extend.

But is it always a good idea? I asked design and building experts about the pros and cons of knocking down walls to help you make the right decision for your home.

Is it a good idea to knock down internal walls?

Assessing the pros and cons and ultimately whether it's a good idea to move, alter or knock down internal walls will depend on a few different factors, including the type of walls you want to change, how many where they are and the result you are trying to achieve.

‘Open-plan living has become a modern-day dream for many homeowners, as it promises brighter spaces, better flow, and a more sociable layout,’ says Paul Kerr, a building and landscaping specialist working with Beatsons. ‘Taking down internal living room/kitchen walls is one of the most popular requests we've seen new homeowners make when moving.’

But while it might seem like a good idea, it's important that you consider how your space will function if the wall was removed, as this may throw up some issues that will need to be resolved before you move forward, including furniture and radiator placement, cupboard space and any loss of privacy.

The type of wall you are dealing with will also factor into your decision making, and it's best to get a structural engineer or trusted builder to confirm the kind of wall you want to alter. If you are dealing with a load-bearing wall, then the process of removing or altering it will be more complex and the cost of removing the wall will go up. A partition wall, on the other hand, will be much more straightforward.

Before you commit to knocking down any internal wall, make a note of the pros and cons to help you decide if it's the right choice.

Pros of knocking down walls

Whether you want to remove a single wall, or knock down a few to create an open-plan space, there are a number of benefits:

• Creates a modern layout that suits your lifestyle. If small boxy rooms aren't you're thing, then opening them up by removing walls can make a dated home feel much more contemporary.
• Improves the flow of natural light. Susie Pfeiffer, Interior Designer at Pfeiffer Design: 'Removing an internal wall can be a great way to open up a space, improve natural light and enhance flow especially if you're aiming for open-plan living.'
• Less expensive than extending. If you want bigger rooms and a more spacious feel, but don't want to go to the expense of building an extension, then removing a wall can get you the result you're after without adding to the overall square footage.
• Great for entertaining. If you love socialising, then knocking down walls to transform a tiny kitchen into a larger, more sociable open-plan kitchen will allow you and your guests to mingle with ease.
• Could increase your home's value. If you are planning on moving house in the near future, removing walls can help to boost the appeal of your home to potential buyers, especially if it transforms a small kitchen into something more spacious.

Cons of knocking down walls

It's easy to get blinded by the benefits of knocking down a wall or two, but there are some drawbacks that need to be considered before you start swinging the sledgehammer.

• You might lose some privacy. Depending on how many walls you plan on removing, you could end up sacrificing some privacy, which could feel problematic, especially if you live in a busy family home.
• Furniture placement options might be limited. If you are planning on removing multiple walls to create an open-plan living space, then you'll need to carefully plan where your furniture will go in the new layout. And fewer walls can make this tricky.
• Harder to heat a larger space. 'Removing walls might look great, but it can make it harder to keep your home warm in winter unless you’ve planned your insulation and radiators accordingly,' says Thomas Oldham, Co-Founder of UK Construction Blog.
• Noise, acoustics and kitchen smells. If you remove a wall that was previously blocking noise from travelling between the kitchen and living room, you might find the new space distractingly noisy. And you'll need to factor in effective extraction to prevent kitchen smells from reaching where you don't want them to.
• Some walls are more expensive to remove than others. It's more expensive (and complex) to knock down a load-bearing wall than to remove a partition wall.

Other options to consider

Whether you are trying to create a open-plan layout, improve the flow of your home, or simply make a smaller room a little bit bigger, it's worth considering the other options that could get the results you want, while dodging the potential downsides.

• Relocate the wall. If you are set on knocking down a wall, then building a new partition wall elsewhere could help you achieve all the pros and bypass the cons.
• Create a new doorway. Instead of knocking down a wall entirely, opening up a new doorway with internal bifolds or doors with glass panels can help natural light flow through the space, making it feel lighter and brighter, without sacrificing cosiness or privacy.
• Consider a broken plan layout. By using movable screens, full height shelves, fixed glazing and partial walls you could create a lighter brighter space, without compromising on privacy.

If your wall removal plans are relatively simple, such as removing a wall between a kitchen and separate dining room, then it can be a bit of a no-brainer.

However, if you are trying to solve more complex issues, like a lack of natural light and flow, or want to take on a full remodel, make sure you work with an architect or designer who will be able to help you create the result you are after. They'll often come up with ideas and solutions that you've never even considered.

If you do want an open-plan layout, make sure you avoid these three regrets from someone who has been there and done it.

If you are planning on altering the layout of your home by moving internal walls, or removing them entirely, then you'll need to understand the different types of wall you could come across, including partition walls.

After all, the process of removing internal walls will depend on whether the wall is simply a partition wall or whether it is serving a more significant structural purpose.

To help you determine the kind of wall you have before you pick up a sledgehammer, I asked those in the know what exactly a partition wall is, as well as the key features to help you identify one in your home.

What is a partition wall?

Before you even think about knocking down an internal wall, you will need to determine what kind of wall it is.

'A partition wall is an interior wall of a property that is non-load bearing, so it doesn’t support the weight of the structure above and is not necessary for the stability of the building,' says Mark Irving, building expert at Build & Plumb. 'These walls are typically used to divide areas of the home or provide aesthetic purposes.'

While less structurally significant than load-bearing walls, partition walls aren't always straightforward. Architect Níall Hedderman from Capital A Architecture explains: 'Partitions might seem like the most basic wall in a building but, given the variety of styles, ages and methods of construction across the UK, partitions can also be complex.

'It is possible to have brick partitions that don't carry any load and timber stud frame walls which do, and sometimes in the same building!

'Older properties can have more than one type of partition wall, especially if the building has more than one floor. The lower floors might have brick partitions but the top floor could have timber stud walls between the rooms.'

If your property has undergone any remodelling work in the past, it's also possible that you could have partition walls made up of different materials, which can make identification more challenging.

'Newer homes increasingly use metal frames covered with plasterboard to form partitions. These have dense mineral wool inside them to reduce noise transfer between rooms,' adds Níall.

How do you identify a partition wall?

So how can you tell if a wall is a partition wall rather than load-bearing? There are a few signs to look out for that will give you a good indication.

'Firstly, a key way to identify a partition wall is through its location,' says Mark Irving. 'For instance, a partition wall is used in the interior of a property, not the exterior, so this can be a key sign.

'Furthermore, as these walls are non-load bearing they are commonly made from materials like plasterboard, so they may sound hollow when tapped. Simply, knock on your wall using your knuckle and if it sounds loud or hollow this can be a strong indication of a partition wall.'

Susie Pfeiffer, Interior Designer at Pfeiffer Design adds: 'To identify a partition wall, check its thickness: partition walls are usually thinner than structural ones, often under 100mm. They're also commonly made of stud and plasterboard, which offers more flexibility and is lighter weight than masonry.'

However, while these can be good indicators as to whether a wall is simply a partition wall, the only way to know for certain is to get confirmation from a structural engineer or builder. After all, if you get it wrong, and end up removing what you think is a partition wall but it turns out to be load-bearing, you could face serious and expensive consequences.

Is it easy to remove or alter a partition wall?

Once you are sure you are dealing with a partition wall rather than a load-bearing one, then it can be relatively easy to remove or alter as you wish. It is usually within the skillset of a competent DIYer.

You'll need to be mindful of any wires or pipes that might be located in the wall. This bestselling stud finder from Amazon (£19.54) will help you find them. These will need to be decommissioned before you try to remove the wall.

If you have a radiator on the wall you want to remove, you may want to consult with a professional, especially if you want to relocate this to another wall.

FAQs

How much does it cost to remove a partition wall?

When it comes to how much it costs to remove an internal wall, the good news is that partition walls are usually more affordable walls to remove. Load-bearing walls will require professional involvement and so cost more to remove.

If you task a builder with removing the partition wall, then it can usually be done in a couple of days, and will cost in the region of £800-1,000 depending on your builder's day rate.

If this falls into your DIY remit, then your costs will be much lower. But remember you'll need to budget for any materials and tools you may need for the job.

As with any kind of renovation work, make sure you only DIY the tasks that you can complete safely and competently. Biting off more than you can chew in an effort to save money will usually end up costing more in remedial work.

Can I remove a partition wall myself?

If you are a confident and experienced DIYer, then you may well be able to knock down a non load-bearing partition wall yourself. Just heed these wall removal lessons learned from an experienced renovator.

If however the job looks to be more complex, or if you aren't sure if the wall is load-bearing or not, then it's best to call in the professionals.

Before you plan on knocking down any internal wall, make sure you carefully consider whether it's the right option for your home, especially when it comes to an open plan kitchen vs closed plan kitchen.

If you have spotted cracks in walls in your home you are most likely wondering what they mean.

Are they a sign the ground beneath is unstable? Is your roof causing issues? Will you need to look into how to remove an internal wall? In short, should you be worried?

'Cracks in walls, in most instances, are likely to be harmless,' reassures architect Tina Patel of Architect Your Home. 'If you have concerns, there are a few things you can do in the first instance before you get a professional involved.'

We asked the experts for their advice on how homeowners can tell the difference between a crack that indicates a serious problem requiring swift action, and those that are wholly innocent and no cause for concern.

What should you do if you have spotted a crack in your wall?

If you have noticed a new crack in a wall, or one that seems to be getting bigger, you can't just learn how to paint a wall and hope the problem goes away – so what should your first steps be?

'Monitor the crack,' advises Tina Patel. 'The easiest way to do this, when you don’t have specialist equipment, is to mark a number of points on the crack with a line through it in pencil (perpendicular to the crack). Date each mark and ensure you also mark the end of the crack in same way. Take photos of these marks.

'You can then check back in four weeks to see if the pencil line from one side of the crack has shifted to the other side,' continues Tina. 'If that has happened, you can consider the potential causes with a specialist structural engineer.'

What do subsidence cracks look like?

One of the first things most people worry about when they spot a crack in the wall is subsidence. With that in mind, what is the easiest way to tell if the crack you are looking at has been caused by ground movement?

'The most notable sign of building subsidence is the appearance of cracks, particularly diagonal ones, in interior plaster or exterior brickwork,' explains Craig Dean, residential services director, from Geobear. 'These cracks often appear suddenly, are wider at the top and are generally thicker than fine hairline cracks. A good rule of thumb is that subsidence cracks tend to be wider than a ten pence coin.

'Other indicators include sinking or uneven floors, visible gaps between floors and skirting boards, and cracks where an extension meets the main structure,' continues Craig. 'Doors and windows may begin to stick or misalign. These are all classic signs that the structure may be moving as a result of subsidence.'

What do hairline cracks in plaster mean?

Very fine, hairline cracks are common, particularly when painting over new plaster – but what causes them?

'Hairline cracks are very thin (less than 1mm) and are typically found in plaster or render,' picks up Craig Dean. 'Usually they are caused by shrinkage, drying or minor settlement. These are cosmetic and generally harmless.'

That said, even in the case of settlement cracks, Craig still recommends keeping an eye on them.

'Settlement cracks are common throughout a building, particularly in new constructions, and are usually caused by natural settling of the building’s structure,' explains Craig. 'Geobear recommends monitoring these cracks for changes. If they stabilise, then no action is needed, but persistent or widening cracks should be evaluated by a professional.'

What do vertical cracks in walls mean?

Spotted a crack that runs from the top to the bottom of the wall? This is known as a 'vertical crack.'

'These cracks are so-called because they run up and down both interior and exterior walls,' explains Craig Dean. 'You should monitor the crack for changes if it’s less than 3mm wide. If the crack is wider, then it will be necessary to consult an expert in ground engineering to rule out subsidence.'

'If the crack is visible on both sides of the wall – especially if it is a external wall – this may involve something structural,' adds Tina Patel. 'To rectify this could involve underpinning the existing foundations or putting in new structural support if the wall has been overloaded.'

Are diagonal cracks in walls a cause for concern?

Cracks that run diagonally through walls should definitely set some alarm bells ringing.

'Diagonal cracks are often a sign of structural movement or subsidence, especially if the crack is wider than 3mm and located around windows or door frames,' warns Craig Dean. 'Diagonal cracks should be investigated promptly.

'Stepped cracks in brickwork are also classic indicators of subsidence,' continues Craig. 'Stepped cracks follow the mortar lines – the visible joints or seams between individual bricks – in a stair-step pattern and often widen at the top.

What should you do about horizontal cracks in walls?

Sometimes, horizontal cracks can appear in walls, and these can be a sign of something structural that needs to be investigated.

'These cracks may signal pressure, or movement, within the wall,' explains Craig Dean. 'Depending on their position, horizontal cracks could indicate serious structural stress or wall bowing.'

So how can you tell if the horizonal crack you are looking at is a sign of something that needs professional intervention?

'Subsidence cracks tend to be deeper and wider than superficial ones,' advises Craig. 'A superficial crack is one that appears on the surface of a material and does not extend deeply into it. Cracks wider than around 3mm warrant investigation.'

When should you worry about a crack in your wall?

'Remember, buildings do move through the seasons and different elements will shift at different rates – so you would expect to see some movement, but big shifts can be a result of some other issues,' says Tina Patel.

While not all cracks mean subsidence, if the crack you have noticed fits any of the following criteria it is probably time to call in the pros to assess it.

• Diagonal or stepped pattern: 'Cracks that follow a stair-step or diagonal pattern are more likely to be related to ground movement,' says Craig Dean.
• Progression over time: If you are monitoring the crack and it is steadily getting longer or wider, it is best to call in a professional.
• Seasonal changes: 'Cracks that widen during dry periods, and close during wet months, can indicate soil shrinkage and expansion,' says Craig. 'This is especially common in clay soil.'
• Width: A crack that is any wider than 3mm warrants further investigation.

What are other signs of subsidence?

Cracks are just one sign that your house could be suffering from subsidence.

'Look for cracks in plaster, uneven or sloping floors, gaps around skirting boards and sticking doors or windows,' says Craig Dean. 'Externally, look out for cracks in brickwork, leaning chimneys, cracks at building corners or where extensions meet. Also, be on the lookout for gaps or cracking around window and door frames.

'Other symptoms of subsidence might include drainage issues, water damage or a structure appearing to lean,' adds Craig.

What should you do if you think your home has subsidence?

If you think that your home is suffering from subsidence, don't panic, there are steps you can take to resolve the issue.

'In our experience, when it comes to subsidence, it is important to get an independent specialist building surveyor’s report for the assessment,' advises Tina Patel. 'You should also check the specific requirements under your insurance for subsidence. Having subsidence or a record of this on your property could impact your insurance and mortgage for excessive periods of time and even the ability to sell the property, so if you think there is a risk it is important to have the independent report undertaken to verify this.

'When we have advised homeowners who thought they had subsidence (as a result of their insurance team advising it was) it was proved it was not upon further investigation, avoiding the need for costly increases in premiums, so it is well worth the investment of the building surveyor’s report.'

FAQs

What is subsidence?

If all this talk of subsidence has got you wondering what it actually is, this should help clear things up.

The definition of subsidence is the downward movement of the ground underneath a building. It actually has nothing to do with the building on top.

'Subsidence occurs when the ground beneath a building sinks, causing the foundations to shift,' explains Craig Dean.

If you discover a crack that is harmless, then it's a good idea to fill it, but make sure you don't miss this crucial step.

Exactly how much does it cost to remove an internal wall? This is a question you should definitely be asking if you plan on remodelling the existing layout of your home, are extending, or renovating an older property.

It is crucial, at the same time as looking at how to remove an internal wall, that you get an idea of how much the task is likely to cost you. This will avoid any delays in the work as well as nasty surprises that leave you short for the other aspects of your building project.

We took a look at all the costs involved with this task, how you can avoid overspending and the factors that are likely to push prices up.

How much does it cost to knock down an internal wall?

How much it costs to remove an internal wall very much depends on the type of wall you are removing and who is doing the work.

'A lot of this will be dependent on the structural solution being proposed, as well as the size of steel work required,' explains architect Tina Patel of Architect Your Home. 'For example, is there a box frame of steel (when you create a box shape in steel with one steel in ground) or a goal post configuration with foundations?'

If you are removing a load-bearing wall, it will cost more than a non-load bearing wall due to the fact that professional input will be required, as well as structural support.

How much does it cost to remove an internal load-bearing wall?

The removal of a load bearing wall – one that gives support to another element of the house, such as a wall on the floor above – is more expensive than taking out a non-load bearing structure and is often a job that needs doing when building an extension.

The additional costs are due to factors such as fees for a structural engineer to make the calculations for the additional supports that will be required to take the weight of whatever the old wall was holding up. You will also have to pay for the supports themselves.

'The cost to remove an internal wall will depend on factors such as the size of your home, the size of your wall, or whether your wall is a load bearing wall or a stud wall,' picks up Andy Simms, building expert at MyBuilder.com. 'A stud wall is simpler to remove and typically won’t cost more than £1,000. However, removing a load bearing wall requires further care and may require a fee of around £2,500.'

According to Checkatrade, the average cost of removing an internal load bearing wall is between £1,250–£1,750. Additionally, They estimate that a rolled steel joist (RSJ) will cost £800–£950 and that a structural engineer will charge around £200 per visit.

How much does it cost to remove a non-load bearing wall?

If it is a non-load bearing, or partition wall you are dealing with, costs will be lower.

If you are calling in a builder to carry out the work, you will obviously need to factor in the labour costs. Removing the wall should take no longer than a couple of days and the average builder's day rate is approximately £400-£500.

Even if you plan on carrying out the work yourself, just as with many other DIY home repairs and tasks, you will still need to factor in the cost of materials and any tools you require for the job.

Which factors affect how much it costs to remove an internal wall?

Aside from whether or not the wall you are removing is load bearing, there are several other factors that will influence how much this job costs you.

The size of the wall will play a part, as well as whether or not it will affect a wall you share with your neighbour – also known as a Party Wall.

If you live in a terraced or semi-detached house, you may find that the new beams needed to support walls that were once held up by a load-bearing wall, might need to be supported by shared walls. You will need to involve a Party Wall surveyor and, possibly, draw up a Party Wall Agreement.

'Most party wall surveyors charge an hourly rate that is usually between £90 and £450 an hour,' reveals Angela Kerr, director and editor at HomeOwners Alliance.

Are there any hidden costs to be aware of?

Along with labour costs and the price you pay for any tools and equipment, there are other elements you should be aware of if you want to go into this project fully aware of what you will eventually end up paying.

'Don’t forget, removal of the wall is also likely to mean new flooring, potentially a new ceiling and quite significant disruption that will require replastering and quite a lot of decoration,' points out Tina Patel. 'As a result, when looked at as a whole, the typical removal of a load bearing wall is likely to leave not much change from £10,000 plus VAT.

'Costs will increase depending on the complexity of any temporary supports required and what size the opening is,' continues Tina. 'If the wall is non-load bearing, as there are no structural supports, that cost would be removed, but the transitions between the two spaces will still need to be accounted for.'

'There are a number of repair jobs you will likely need to complete after your internal wall is removed, such as plastering, and decorating where your old wall used to be,' adds Andy Simms. 'This will amount to extra cost, but there are ways you can keep the cost down. If you rectify only the line of the old wall, instead of the whole new space, this may not leave your new space looking perfect, but the cost won’t be as hefty.'

You may also have to get specialist renovation insurance if your existing policy doesn't cover removing a wall, so bear that in mind too. All of this can be covered if you avoid the cardinal wall removal mistake.

FAQs

Will removing an internal wall add value to your home?

This very much depends on how the removal of the wall will change the layout of your home. For many people, open plan works well, but for busy households and those requiring quiet space for working or relaxing, a broken plan layout can be better.

That said, if you are removing a wall to create an open plan kitchen diner, you can be pretty confident that this is a job well worth doing.

The FMB recently carried out research that suggested removing an internal wall to create this sort of space could add more than £48,000 to the average home in London.

Before you get too excited with the sledgehammer, make sure you have carefully considered the pros and cons of knocking down the wall. Choosing wrongly could prove costly.

If you're about to embark on a significant home improvement project, you'll know that there is plenty to tick off the list before you even pick up a tool to start the work.

And a project like removing an internal wall is no exception. Depending on the scope of your plans and the property you live in, you might already be aware that you need to submit a Building Notice or even a planning application before you begin.

But for many homeowners, informing your home insurer of the work is often overlooked, which could have dire consequences should something go wrong. I spoke to multiple home insurance experts about what a homeowner should do and what the potential repercussions could be of ignoring this crucial step in the process.

What are the consequences of not informing your home insurer of your plans to knock down walls?

There can be very serious consequences if you don't inform your insurer about your wall removal plans, especially if something goes wrong.

‘Most home insurance policies require homeowners to disclose any significant structural changes, including knocking down internal walls, before any renovation work begins,' says Matt Durrant, Insurance Expert and Managing Director of i4me. 'Failing to do so could result in your policy being voided entirely, which means you’re not covered for any claims, even if they are unrelated to the renovation works.'

This could be an especially costly mistake if you don't correctly identify a wall as load bearing before you attempt to remove it. This could lead to significant structural defects, which your insurer may not pay out for.

Nathan Blackler, spokesperson for Go.Compare Home insurance agrees: ‘Making structural changes to your home, like knocking down internal walls, might seem straightforward, but if you don’t tell your home insurance provider, you could risk invalidating your home insurance policy.

‘Standard buildings and contents home insurance doesn’t always cover major renovations or structural work, so it’s really important to check what is and isn’t covered in your home insurance policy before you pick up the sledgehammer. Even smaller jobs could raise issues - for example, if you’re doing the work yourself, you might not be covered for accidental damage like hitting a water pipe.'

If you fail to speak to your insurer, you also run the risk of potentially being underinsured when your renovation work is complete. ‘Major works, such as creating new rooms or extensions, can increase the value and therefore increase the rebuild cost,' says Matt. 'If your policy doesn’t reflect this, there could be a shortfall in cover in the event of a major claim or total loss.’

How can you make sure you are properly protected?

To ensure you remain adequately covered by your insurance provider, you will need to contact them with specific details as to what you plan on doing, how much it is likely to cost, and how long the work is expected to take. Ask whether the work is covered by your existing policy.

‘They will confirm if they can cover you while the work is being done, or if you need to seek separate specialist renovation insurance,' explains Emma Myrie, Lead Underwriter at specialist home insurer, Homeprotect. 'They will review your existing policy and make any necessary revisions, helping ensure your home remains adequately covered throughout the project.'

Go.Compare's Nathan continues: 'If your works are relatively minor, your current policy might cover you or you might need to pay a small additional premium to boost your protection. But get in touch with your insurer to make sure you understand exactly what is covered.

'Plans inevitably change along the way during a renovation project, so make sure you keep your insurer informed. It's not worth taking a risk of not being properly insured on your home, which for many is their biggest financial asset.'

What additional insurance might be required?

In some cases, a standard home insurance policy might not provide enough cover in which case you will need specialist renovation insurance.

You might even need additional insurance, as Emma explains: 'You should also consider public liability insurance to protect yourself against potential claims for injury or damage to third parties during the construction.

'If the renovations are significant and require you to vacate the property, you’ll likely need unoccupied home insurance while the house is empty. Once the work is completed, don’t forget to update your policy and increase your sum insured to reflect the improved or expanded home.’

If it's your first time knocking down a wall, then heed the advice of a serial renovator who shared the lessons she learned from doing the same thing.

If you need to create more space or improve the flow of your home, without resorting to an extension, then altering (or removing) internal walls is worth considering. But you'll need to know what a load-bearing wall actually is and how you can tell if a wall is load-bearing before you start.

When it comes to how to remove an internal wall, the process can be surprisingly complex, especially if the wall you want to remove happens to support the weight of something above. So it's crucial that you do your research and use the experience and knowledge of professionals to avoid wall removal mistakes and ensure you can remove the wall safely.

I asked the experts to share their load-bearing wall expertise to get you started.

What is a load-bearing wall?

There are two types of internal wall – load-bearing and non load-bearing. Determining which type of wall you are working with is the most important step you can take before knocking it down.

'A load-bearing wall is a structural element that supports the weight of the building above it, including floors, ceilings, roof structures, and sometimes additional loads like furniture or people,' says Elli Kiely, Design & Innovation Director at HJK Construction. 'These walls help distribute the weight safely down to the foundations, ensuring the building’s stability.'

But not every internal wall in your home will be load-bearing. Some will be simple partition walls to divide up the space rather than carrying any structural weight.

Non load-bearing walls can be removed relatively easily, but if you tried to alter a load-bearing wall without realising it was load-bearing, you could find yourself inadvertently causing serious structural damage to your home. So it's absolutely crucial you know what kind of wall you are dealing with. 'Never assume a wall is non-load-bearing without professional verification,' advises Elli.

How can you tell if a wall is load-bearing?

It can be really difficult to identify a load-bearing wall yourself, especially as you can't definitively tell if a wall is load-bearing just by looking at it, or hearing the sound it makes when it's knocked on.

But there are certain characteristics you can look out for to help you identify a load-bearing wall, as Elli Kiely explains:

• Wall orientation and location: 'Load-bearing walls are often perpendicular to floor joists or roof trusses, whereas partition walls tend to run parallel to them.'
• Thickness and material: 'Structural walls tend to be thicker and made of brick, block, or timber framing.' However, a non load-bearing wall could also be made of brick or blockwork, so make sure you check for other indicators too.
• Positioning: 'External walls are almost always load-bearing. Internally, walls that run through the centre of the house or align with walls above or below are likely to be structural.'
• Presence of beams or columns: 'If a beam, steel lintel, or column is exposed above the wall, it’s likely carrying a load.'
• Blueprints or structural plans: 'Checking the original construction drawings or consulting an architect or structural engineer is the most reliable way to confirm.'

Even if you are pretty confident you can identify a load-bearing wall, it is best to check with a professional. 'Relying solely on these indicators can be risky. Always confirm with a structural engineer,' says Thomas Oldham, co-founder of the UK Construction Blog. 'It is a lesson learned the hard way, best avoided.'

Your structural engineer may need to lift floorboards, remove plaster or open up the ceiling in order to correctly determine if a wall is load-bearing.

FAQs

Can you remove a load-bearing wall?

If you are worried that your remodelling plans will be put on hold after you've identified a load-bearing wall, then the good news is they won't be. It is still possible to alter or remove a load-bearing wall.

However, the project will require careful planning to ensure the structural integrity of the property is maintained both during the work and afterwards. This will involve specialist knowledge from a structural engineer who will calculate what kind and size of beam you need to support the load, and ensure the beam meets the requirements of the building regulations. This could be an RSJ (rolled steel joist), timber or concrete.

This is not usually a task for a DIYer, so best to call on a pro. 'Incorrectly removing a load-bearing wall can cause severe structural damage, including ceiling collapse or foundation issues,' reinforces Elli. 'Always consult a structural engineer or qualified contractor before proceeding with any alterations.'

It's crucial that you carefully weigh up the pros and cons of removing a wall before you commit. If you do plan on removing an internal wall, take advantage of the lessons learned by a serial renovator who had been there, done it, and got the improved home to show for it.

Having renovated several old houses in dire need of modernisation over the years, I'm not fazed by removing walls – in fact, it has often been one of my favourite parts of these transformations.

That said, there have been some surprises along the way that have not been altogether welcome and, in some cases, that have thrown the project off schedule and added to costs. Perhaps if I had researched how to remove an internal wall a little more thoroughly prior to work commencing I would have been better prepared.

With that in mind, I want to share with you the five things I wish someone had told me before getting stuck into this element of the project – hopefully this will save you any feelings of despondency when you are knee deep in rubble.

1. Listen to your structural engineer

I know, I know – this sounds so obvious. Who in their right minds would call in the services of a structural engineer only to ignore their advice...? Well, us, as it turned out.

The wall in question here was one that separated the original tiny hallway from an adjacent coal store. We wanted to remove it to absorb the store into the internal layout to give us the opportunity to explore some more spacious hallway ideas.

This wall was load bearing, supporting the wall above, plus the joists above were resting on it. Additionally, the room above the old coal store was to become a new bathroom, so the weight of the bath when full of water needed to be taken into account. The advice of the structural engineer was to insert a metal box lintel to take the load.

We were carrying out the work on a DIY basis and, in the name of aesthetics, decided to use a concrete lintel instead. This was mainly because the depth of the concrete lintel was far less than that of the metal box lintel meaning it would encroach less on the volume of the new hallway.

Sadly (and completely unsurprisingly) the building inspector who came out to sign the work off, was not impressed. We had to change it, which ended up adding to costs and causing extra disruption. The takeaway? Listen to your structural engineer.

2. Ensure good lines of communication

Another issue that could have been avoided here. When we moved in, the kitchen was nothing more than a single-skin brickwork lean-to with one cabinet, a sink and a mini fridge.

We knocked this down and built a single storey extension, removing the wall that once sat between the old dining room and the lean-to. This was load bearing, carrying the weight of the external wall above, meaning significant structural support was needed. Our structural engineer once again carried out the calculations.

However, somewhere between him and our builders, there was confusion – namely when it came to the size of the padstone required for the new supporting steel to sit on.

A padstone is a concrete (or stone) block which is used to ensure the weight of a beam or lintel is evenly distributed onto the supporting wall. In short, it is incredibly important when it comes to keeping the whole building structurally sound.

When our building inspector visited, it was found that the builders had used a padstone too small for the job. Once again, work had to be undone and a padstone of the correct size inserted – more mess, more expense.

3. Damp proofing might be necessary

If the internal wall you are removing is solid brickwork (as opposed to a cavity or stud wall), you may well find a damp proof course within it. You can't just ignore this – it is doing an important job in keeping damp at bay.

As our house was built in 1915, beneath our floor coverings is simply bare soil – meaning damp proofing is crucial. While not all houses will have DPCs within their internal walls, some of the solid walls here did.

This meant that when when we took them out, we needed to add damp proofing measures to the newly exposed floor. As we were replacing all the flooring anyway, this wasn't too much of an issue, but it was definitely something we hadn't banked on. Speak to your building inspector for advice on how to do this so that it complies with the building regulations.

4. It will make an almighty mess

Think about how much mess you might expect knocking down an internal wall to make – then multiply that by about 50. A flimsy dust sheet and an open window is not going to cut it.

We lived in our house throughout the renovation work and nothing made more dust and mess that the removal of the internal walls. Even with doors shut, furniture covered and plastic sheeting hung between rooms, dust found a way to get absolutely everywhere. It even managed to get upstairs when the wall being removed was downstairs.

In all honesty, there wasn't much more we could have done to prevent the spread of mess, although next time I would definitely invest in some professional grade dust guards for the doors. Investing in one of the best vacuum cleaners would have helped too rather than relying on our ancient model.

Shop dust minimisers

5. You might not want to remove the whole wall

There have been cases where I wonder if we needed to remove the whole wall. For example, when we renovated our Victorian house some years ago, we removed the wall that stood between the living and dining room to explore some open plan living room ideas.

On reflection, it may have better to simply make an opening within the wall rather than to take the whole thing out. As it was, all the kitchen noise travelled straight through the dining room and into the living area.

In our current house, we removed the external wall to the dining room when we extended out to the side for a snug/spare bedroom. We kept it open between the two spaces and are now considering fitting some steel-framed Crittall-style doors between the two for a little more division.

FAQs

Do you need planning permission to knock down a wall?

You won't usually need planning permission to knock down an internal wall as it will fall under permitted development.

However, if you live in a listed building, you will need permission. Plus, whether or not planning permission is required, you will almost always need building regulations approval to remove load-bearing walls.

How much does it cost to remove an internal wall?

How much it costs to remove an internal wall very much depends on who is carrying out the work and the type of wall you are removing – load bearing or non-load bearing (like a partition wall).

To remove a load bearing wall, Checkatrade estimate that it will cost between £1,250-£1,750. You will also need to factor in structural engineer fees which can cost anything between £300-£500 + VAT, depending on their level of involvement. Don't forget materials either – factor in the cost of an RSJ (£800-£950) as well as damp proofing if needed and final decoration.

There are lots of reasons why removing an internal wall will be necessary, including to make open plan kitchen ideas possible. Although it can be a DIY job, be sure to get the proper structural advice first.

Getting to grips with how to remove an internal wall is a skill well worth learning if you are planning on renovating a house, remodelling or extending.

Not only do the layouts of old houses often not suit modern lifestyles, but natural light can also be an issue. Taking out internal walls can open up a floorplan as well as allowing light to flow throughout previously warren-like spaces.

While this is a job undertaken by many DIYers (I've knocked down plenty myself), that can sometimes be a mistake and there are instances where it can be better to call in the professionals. In this guide, I explain the process of knocking down an internal wall, what you need to check beforehand, how long it is likely to take and cost, as well as the steps you can take to ensure the project is a safe and productive one.

What should you check before removing an internal wall?

Before you pull out that sledgehammer in order to realise your open plan living room ideas, there are a couple of factors to bear in mind if you want to ensure this is a job that goes smoothly and safely.

'First, you must determine whether the wall is structural (load bearing or non-load bearing) and check for hidden services such as plumbing or electrical wiring,' explains Farook Member, director and home improvement expert at QS Supplies. 'You can do this using a cable detector or by opening up a little inspection hole.'

'Often people think is just a case of knocking on the wall and checking if it is solid, or looking to see if there is a wall directly above – this is not always enough,' explains architect Tina Patel of Architect Your Home. 'Even if there is no wall directly overhead, the wall you want to remove could be supporting floor joists, so ill-considered removal could have serious implications for keeping the structure standing.'

You should also carefully weight up the pros and cons of knocking down a wall to make sure it's the right choice.

How to remove an internal stud wall step-by-step

If you have determined your wall is a non load-bearing partition wall and decided you feel confident knocking it down on a DIY basis, here are the steps you'll need to take to remove a stud wall.

1. Check for pipes and cables and decommission any that are present to ensure they are no longer live.
2. Put sheets and door seals in place to stop dust from travelling between rooms.
3. Using a sharp utility knife, make cuts along the lines where the wall meets the ceiling and any adjoining walls in order to minimise damage to them.
4. You can now remove skirting boards and any other mouldings on the walls and begin to take off the plasterboard covering the wall. A sledgehammer, small reciprocating saw and crowbar will all prove useful here.
5. With all the plasterboard gone you should be able to see the full timber structure of the wall. Use your saw to cut through the studs and frame and pry them away.
6. Finally, using your crowbar, carefully remove the timber top plate (the section attached to the ceiling) with the aim of minimising any damage to the ceiling. You can then remove the bottom plate.
7. Clear and clean the area. You might need to call in a plasterer to tidy up any damage to the surrounding walls. You will also need to think about how you will finish off the floor where the wall once stood.

Stud wall removal toolkit essentials

How to remove a solid non-load bearing brick wall

If the wall you are removing is solid brick or block, things are going to be a little messier in terms of the dust and rubble generated and you are much more likely to need to hire a skip.

Start by following steps 1 and 2 above, arm yourself with a hammer and bolster, then:

1. Remove some of the plasterboard from the ceiling either side of the wall (around 20 inches) up to the point where it joins the wall.
2. Remove any door frames and mouldings if present, sawing them into sections and using a crowbar to prise them free.
3. Next, starting at the top of the wall, you want to carefully and methodically begin to remove bricks. Steel toe boots and a hard hat are highly recommended.
4. Continue demolishing the wall, using your hammer and bolster and, if necessary, a sledgehammer or hammer drill. If possible, work row by row, stripping plaster away as you go and regularly clearing the floor of obstacles.
5. Clear away the opening and get ready for plastering and redecoration.

Brick wall removal essentials

Can I remove an internal wall myself?

While not necessarily an easy DIY project, many homeowners do decide to tackle the task of internal wall removal themselves. That said, there are a few points to consider before deciding to shun professional input.

'There can be multiple factors to consider and although it may appear to be straightforward, DIY removal can have catastrophic consequences if professional advice isn't sought,' warns Tina Patel.

If the wall in question is found to be non load-bearing, DIY removal can usually be carried out safely providing you arm yourself with the right equipment and tools for the job.

'If the wall doesn't have a load-bearing responsibility, a talented DIYer should be able to safely remove it,' says Farook Member. 'Remember, you still have to check for hidden pipes or wires and exercise caution.'

When to call in the pros

However, if the wall is load bearing, you should definitely call in a structural engineer as they will be able to specify a beam or lintel of the correct size. Often, this will also be a requirement of building control and you could find yourself unable to get a completion certificate for the work without these calculations.

Once the wall has been determined to be non load-bearing – preferably by a structural engineer or trusted builder – there is usually no need for a structural engineer's calculations.

Do you need planning permission to knock down internal walls?

Planning permission will not usually be required to remove an internal wall, even if it is load bearing. However, if you live in a listed building, permission will most likely be required for this kind of alteration.

If the work is likely to affect a wall you share with your neighbour, you may need to take into account the Party Wall Act too.

'Often, the removal of existing elements and the insertion of new structural members will result in a Party Wall Notice needing to be served to the neighbours,' explains Tina Patel.

'This could be because you are digging close to the party wall, or if you are inserting new steelwork into the shared wall between properties. It is important to follow the party wall process properly as this protects both you and the neighbour in the event the builder manages to damage the property next door. Remember, it is a preventative measure that safeguards all and is best have in place – accidents do happen.'

What are the building regs for removing internal walls?

Even if planning permission isn't required to remove your internal wall, building regulations approval will be if it is a load-bearing wall that is coming out.

'It is highly likely that the safe removal of a load-bearing wall will require a building regulations application,' advises Tina Patel. 'This considers that what is being proposed structurally will not compromise the safety of the house and the level above.'

It isn't just the removal of load-bearing walls that might require building regs approval. If the walls in question provide any kind of fire protection, building control will also need to be involved, for instance in the case of walls surrounding a staircase leading out from a loft conversion.

How much does it cost to knock down an internal wall

The cost of removing an internal wall will depend on a few different factors, including whether it is load-bearing or not, the size of the wall you want to remove and whether you do the work yourself or not.

To open up a single doorway in non load-bearing wall, My Job Quote estimates that it will cost an average of £1,250. For a double doorway, this rises to £1,500, and then £1,750 to open up a larger wall and create an open plan.

For a load-bearing wall, you will need to add on the cost of a structural engineer (around £200 per visit), the RSJ which can cost in the region of £800 to £950, and the Building Notice (the cost of which will depend on the scope of your project and your local authority).

If you live a listed building, you will need to apply for planning consent too which will add to the cost.

FAQs

How long does it take to remove an internal wall?

Once the wall has been assessed and any structural calculations have been carried out, the actual physical removal, as well as the insertion of a support, should take no more than a day.

You will then have to factor in plastering, which you can expect to take another day and, finally, decoration. If you are removing the wall for something like an open plan kitchen, now is your time to get creative with colour.

Keen to take a wholly DIY approach towards your remodel? Research how to paint a wall properly for a finish to be proud of.

As one of the most integral parts of any house, avoiding roofing mistakes is so important if you want to ensure your home remains dry and comfortable, looks beautiful and protects you properly from the elements.

When carrying out roof replacement or repairs, it is important to be aware that roofs are made up of far more than you see, meaning while the covering you choose is incredibly important, it is crucial to look at the structure as a whole – in short, there is a lot going on under the surface that also needs to be considered.

Given its prominent position and pivotal role in protecting your home, we asked the experts for the mistakes they commonly see homeowners making so you can avoid doing the same.

1. Prioritising cost over quality

This is a huge one – choosing the wrong materials, including roof tiles based on cost alone. Don't let seeking the cheapest materials for your roof result in something that looks all wrong or that needs replacing just a few months later, leaving you to hope your roof insurance will cover the extra work.

'One thing I see a lot is people going ahead with a new roof but picking materials just because they’re cheap or look nice, without thinking if they’re right for the property,' explains Ben Mansfield, property expert and co-founder of Apex Innovations. "The wrong tiles or poor-quality felt can cause issues down the line – leaks, heat loss or even damage to the roof structure.'

'I recently inspected a period home where the natural Welsh slate roof had been replaced with a cheaper fibre-cement alternative, a move driven by cost rather than compatibility,' picks up building surveyor, and founder of Fourth Wall, Joshua Weston. 'Not only did the new material clash visually, it also lacked the durability of its predecessor, with visible signs of deterioration after just 10 years.'

2. Assuming all materials are created equal

This brings us nicely on to the next point – failing to research roofing materials properly. This is about far more than just the kerb appeal of your home, but also how it performs

'Homeowners often assume slate is slate, or a roofing tile is a roofing tile, but quality varies widely,' explains Joshua Weston. 'Imported or artificial slates may not meet the same performance standards, and in listed or conservation areas, they may not comply with planning conditions or heritage constraints. The key is to match both the technical specification and aesthetic. In wetter regions or on low-pitched roofs, heavier slates or clay tiles with appropriate overlap are typically more robust.

'Always check with your contractor what materials they are pricing for when they provide a quote,' continues Joshua. 'And consult technical data sheets and check suitability with the manufacturer before making your final choice. Where in doubt, take advice from a qualified professional.'

3. Overlooking the underlying structure

The tiles or slates you choose to cover your roof are just one element – the structure itself also needs to be taken into account.

'People often focus on the outer layer but skip assessing the roof timbers or existing insulation,' points out Ben Mansfield. 'If that stuff is in poor condition, you’re just putting a new roof over old problems.'

Everything from the condition of the timber used to form the roof's structure to its insulation and ventilation need to be assessed when carrying out replacement or repair.

4. Failing to understand the cost of a new roof

Just how much does a new roof cost? If you still aren't sure, do your research early on to avoid running into problems later down the line.

'It’s easy to focus on the headline quote when planning roof works, but that can be just the start and without a clear breakdown you can't be sure what you're actually going to get,' warns Joshua Weston. 'Clients frequently overlook hidden costs: scaffold access (especially over conservatories or public highways), skip hire, waste permits, and even temporary protection for internal finishes.

'In several cases, I’ve seen works delayed mid-way due to an unexpected need for insulation upgrades, triggered by Building Regs compliance,' continues Joshua. 'To avoid this, I recommend budgeting with a detailed cost plan and price breakdown from your contractor.

'Here’s an example guide for a typical 3-bed semi:

• Strip and re-tile: £6,000–£10,000
• Scaffolding: £800–£2,000
• Insulation upgrades (where required): £500–£1,500
• Waste removal and site clearance: £300–£700
• Contingency: 10–15% of total

5. Leaving old insulation in place

Whether you are looking at complete roof replacement or simply a few repairs or upgrades, checking the existing insulation is key to the success of the final result.

There are lots of different loft insulation methods. It is well worth upgrading your home’s roof insulation to 270mm in thickness – the building regulations required minimum depth for new builds.

'When it comes to insulation, it’s worth knowing that millions of UK households qualify for government-funded upgrades through the ECO4 scheme,' points out Ben Mansfield. 'If your home’s EPC rating is D or lower, and you’re on a low income or receive certain benefits, you could get up to £10,000 worth of insulation and heating improvements for free – including loft insulation and room-in-roof insulation. It’s a huge help, especially if you’re already doing major work like a new roof.'

6. Forgetting about roof ventilation

Poor ventilation in the roof can cause all kinds of serious issues – loft condensation included – if not dealt with.

'Ventilation is often forgotten in roof refurbishments – until the consequences appear,' warns Joshua Weston. 'I’ve inspected everything from post-war bungalows to Edwardian terraces where poor airflow has led to moisture build-up, internal mould, and even hidden structural decay. It’s a particular issue in pre-1945 homes, where modern insulation retrofits clash with older construction methods.

'The solution isn’t one-size-fits-all,' continues Joshua. 'Options like tile vents, ridge vents, or soffit detailing may be suitable, but what’s essential is a holistic design tailored to the property’s needs. I strongly recommend engaging a qualified retrofit assessor under PAS 2035 to ensure any upgrade considers ventilation, insulation, and moisture control as a single system. It’s a small investment that protects the whole property.'

7. Choosing an unvetted contractor

As an integral part of your home's structure, you really need to looking into how to find a good builder and be sure that whoever you get in to carry out repairs or upgrades to your roof can be trusted to carry out the work properly.

'There’s no shortage of horror stories about roofing jobs gone wrong; from rushed installations to entire roofs needing replacement due to poor workmanship,' says Joshua Weston. 'While online trade directories are popular, they can’t replace direct recommendations.

'I advise homeowners to do their homework: ask for contactable references, check public liability insurance (minimum £2m), and insist on a written JCT Minor Works contract,' continues Joshua. 'Be wary of red flags such as large deposits, vague pricing, or contractors who can 'start tomorrow' – all should raise eyebrows. A good contractor won’t rush you, will be happy to put everything in writing, and will have a paper trail of successful jobs. Don’t leave your roof to chance and vet carefully.'

8. Neglecting building regulations requirements

And, finally, never ignore the requirements of the building regulations when it comes to your new roof. These regs are there for a reason.

'One of the most common oversights I encounter is failing to notify Building Control when replacing a roof,' reveals Joshua Weston. 'Many homeowners – and even some contractors – don’t realise that significant roof works must comply with Part L of the Building Regulations, particularly regarding insulation upgrades.

'I've seen property sales delayed because a compliance certificate wasn't issued at the time of the work,' continues Joshua. 'Although homeowners can make the application themselves, I’d advise against leaving this to the builder. Either manage it personally or ask your surveyor to oversee it. Retrospective approval (known as regularisation) is possible, but it's time-consuming and potentially costly. Far easier to do it right the first time and have the paperwork in place when it matters most.'

FAQs

What are the signs that a roof needs replacing?

Even if you are aware how to maintain your roof, there will come a time when it may well need repairing.

You should be on the lookout for water leaks, light coming into your loft through the roof, moss growth or mould on your roof tiles, missing tiles and signs of sagging. All indicate issues.

Once your roof is in tiptop condition, how about looking into some loft conversion ideas to see whether you could be making more use of this often-overlooked area of your home?

There are few architectural features that determine your home’s character to the same extent as the type of roof it has.

As well as informing the aesthetic of your home, the roof is essential when it comes to protecting your house from the elements. It plays an important role in energy efficiency, too, and can even impact on applications for planning permission. And if you need to replace your roof, it'll be useful to know.

Here, we break down the key differences between the main types of roof seen in the UK, as well as outlining some of the telltale signs to look out for when determining which type your home has.

What are the different types of roof?

With such a plethora of styles and shapes available – in addition to hybrid structures that incorporate multiple types of roof formation within one structure – it can be confusing to know which type of roof sits on top of your home.

Below we've listed the most common types to help you identify yours.

Gable roof

One of the most popular and most recognisable styles in the UK, a gable roof comprises two equal size sloping roof faces that meet at the ridge (the horizontal peak at the top of the roof). A gable roof is a go-to choice for homes with a standard rectangular floorplan, with the two gable walls (the triangular-shaped section of wall at either end of a ridged structure) reaching all the way up to the top of the roof. The other two walls extend up to gutter level.

'It’s simple, efficient for shedding water and allows for spacious lofts, which are ideal for conversions,' says Trevor Fisher from Tuakana Construction.

The design of a gable roof is fairly straightforward, so if you’re looking to make your roof a standout design feature this might not be your first choice. Plus, gable roofs are more prone to wind damage than some other designs so require robust support.

Hip roofs

This type of roof slopes down on all four sides, usually with two trapezoid shaped planes on the long sides of the property and two triangle shape roof faces on the short sides of the house, with no vertical sections in the structure.

'It’s more stable in high winds than a gable roof and offers a pleasing, balanced appearance,' says Trevor. 'It’s perfect for suburban villas and detached homes.'

There are several design variations within the hipped roof category, including a crossed hip, which incorporates an additional perpendicular hip section to form either an L- or T-shaped structure.

On the plus side, this style of roof offers an attractive, traditional aesthetic and is more wind resistant. However, it’s slightly more expensive to build than a gabled roof as more construction materials are needed. They’re also more labour intensive to construct due to the more complex nature of the rafters and trusses.

Hip to gable roofs are common on semi-detached properties. 'It involves extending the sloping hip of a roof into a vertical gable wall, creating more internal headroom and a boxier loft, ideal for growing families who need extra space,' says Trevor.

Similar downsides include the additional construction materials required for this type of structure, in addition to the extra labour needed to build the more complex structure.

Hip and valley roofs

Though similar to a hipped roof in terms of its design, this type of structure is ideally suited to homes with floorplans more complicated than a basic rectangle.

Rather than the rectangular shape of a standard hipped roof, a hip and valley roof is formed of a T- or L-shaped plan comprised of an additional hip roof, which intersects with the main roof structure. This setup means there’s an extra ridge, which joins the main ridge of the roof at the same height.

While this type of roof is a good fit for homes with a non-standard footprint shape, they are more prone to leaks due to the multiple seams in the roof structure. They’re also more costly to build because of the special roofing knowledge and extra building materials that are required.

Mansard roofs

Named after architect Francois Mansart, this type of structure originated in 17^th century France. The structure is made up a double-pitched slope on all four sides of the property, where the bottom slope is much steeper than the one above.

'It maximises usable attic space, which makes it a smart choice for townhouses and urban builds craving volume,' says Trevor.

On the downside, the structural complexity of mansard roofs means they’re significantly more expensive to build in comparison to gable or hip roofs. Plus, they’re not ideally suited to regions with heavy rain or snowfall, as the shallower nature of the top plane can lead to the accumulation of water. The multiple angles of the roof structure and induvial dormers can make maintenance trickier, too.

Dormer roofs

Though not a type of roof within itself, dormers are often the structural solution for people carrying out loft extensions. Essentially, they are formed from a mini gable roof which projects out from the plane of the main roof at a 90° angle. There’s usually a window on the vertical gable end of the dormer. The dormer structure can feature a flat or pitched roof.

They’re a great solution to add more floorspace to one-and-a-half storey homes, dormer bungalows and loft extensions. The window within the gable end of the structure also provides ample opportunity to bring natural light into your home’s loft.

However, dormers tend to cost more than standard flat, gable and hip roofs due to design complexities. The presence of the window means they need more maintenance, too.

Flat roofs

Despite the name, ‘flat’ roofs are not actually flat – they always feature a slight gradient that allows water to run off the roof’s surface and prevent pooling. Though they suffered from a bad reputation for leaking in the past due to poor design, modern flat roofs offer a unique aesthetic, ideally suited to contemporary homes.

They can be finished in numerous materials, including metal, single-ply membranes or even a layer of sedum, providing further opportunities to make a design statement – or even build a rooftop patio. They’re also easy to construct.

Despite the slight gradient that allows for liquid run-off, there’s no getting away from the fact that this type of structure will never drain as efficiently as a pitched roof, increasing the risk of water pooling and potential leaks. Typically, they have a shorter lifespan compared to sloping roofs, too.

Green roofs

Well-suited to flat or low-pitch roofs, green roofs are topped with a layer of vegetation, such as sedum or wildflowers. They’re particularly popular for flat roof extensions, as they provide a green outlook for people looking down towards the garden from the upper storeys of the house.

'They also help to improve insulation, reduce runoff and support biodiversity,' says Trevor. 'While they’re increasingly popular for their eco benefits, they add significant weight. Without proper structural support, particularly on older or timber-framed buildings, the load can cause sagging or even collapse.'

'They also require ongoing maintenance, which might not suit every homeowner,' he adds.

What type of roof do I have?

According to Johnny Lovett from Grangeway Partners, you can generally identify the type of roof your home has by looking at the slope, structure and number of faces. 'For instance, period homes often have steep gable or pitched slate roofs, sometimes with a small feature area of clay plain tiles,' he says.

When making your assessment, rather than looking at the property from the front, it might be easier to tell what kind of roof your home has by looking at the house from the side or back. If you have access to the loft from the inside of your house, looking at the structure of trusses and ridge beams can give an idea of the roof type and pitch.

If you live in a Victorian or Edwardian home, it’s likely you have a pitched or hipped roof. 'These period properties often feature steeply pitched gable roofs with decorative ridge tiles, finials and even small dormers,' says Trevor. 'In London and other cities, you’ll also spot some mansard roofs, especially on taller townhouses, designed to maximise attic space behind an elegant façade.'

If you live in a house built in the interwar period (1920s – 1940s) it’s likely you have a hipped roof, or potentially a hip-to-gable conversion. 'These homes were typically built with low-pitched hipped roofs as a practical, suburban style,' says Trevor.

Post-war homes or those built in the 1960s or 1970s were more influenced by modernist design, leading to the rise of flatter profiles with shallow pitched or mono-pitched roofs. Houses built in this period focused on function over form. 'You’ll see a low, almost flat silhouette and large soffits (the underside of roof overhangs),' says Trevor. 'Many 1970s homes also have integral garages with matching rooflines.'

Houses built in the 1980s and 90s often feature a gable or hip roof. 'These homes often revived more traditional roof forms like gables and hips, with concrete tiles and standardised layouts,' explains Trevor. Keep your eyes peeled for clean ridge lines and access to the loft via a hatch with trusses.

Since 2000, minimalist-style homes with flat and mono-pitch roofs have grown in popularity. With these homes, the roof structure may be difficult to see from ground level so you can always try using a satellite image from Google Maps to inform your assessment.

If you're roof is in need of replacement, once you know what type of roof and roof covering you have, you'll need to find out how much a new roof costs so you can budget accordingly.

Wondering how to replace the roof on a terraced house? As the most common type of house in England and Wales, you are likely not to be alone.

Whether you are the proud owner of a beautiful Victorian terrace, ripe for renovation, or live in a newer version of this popular house style, there will come a time where replacing a roof will needed – but what does this entail when you have neighbours on either side and limited access between the front and rear?

If this is a job on your to-list, our guide is here to explain everything you need to do to take your terraced house's roof from battered to beautiful.

How do you replace the roof on a terraced house?

While simple roof repairs to terraced houses are often pretty straightforward, when the whole thing needs replacing, this type of roof can be more complex.

'Given that there are shared structures supporting the roof of a terraced house, there will be a few more considerations than if you were replacing the roof of a detached house,' picks up Angela Kerr, director at HomeOwners Alliance.

While the process of replacing the roof is likely to be largely the same as for any other type of house, there are a few issues, particular to this style of property, that need taking into account, such as who is responsible for repairing party walls – and that is what we'll be looking at in more detail here.

Do I need my neighbours' permission to replace a roof on a terraced house?

The nature of terraced houses means they share walls on either side with the neighbouring properties – even an end-of-terrace will share one wall. So does this mean you have to ask your neighbour for permission to make changes when renovating a terraced house?

'On terraced homes, you often have a shared fire stop wall – this is the wall that goes up into the roof to separate the roofs – it is also likely to be a Party Wall,' explains architect Tina Patel of Architect Your Home.

'Under The Party Wall etc. Act 1996 if you make any changes to this wall – and that could include inserting flashing into the wall on your side – you will need to serve a Party Wall Notice. This can be done yourself, although it is advisable to get a professional in. On works to this type of wall the notice period is two months so you will want to allow plenty of time to do this.

'Not doing this could result in neighbours putting in a court injunction, so it is important to follow the process with this, it is designed to protect you from scrupulous claims from neighbours and the neighbours from damage.'

'This ensures that any work does not compromise the structural integrity of adjoining properties and protects both you and your neighbour by putting everything on a formal footing,' picks up Angela Kerr.

'It sets out a ‘schedule of condition’ and acts as a record of the condition of the shared structure before the work starts and how it will be carried out in case of any disputes in the future about how your roof replacement affected your neighbour’s property. If you're not sure if one is needed or want help getting a party wall agreement together, speak to a Party Wall Assessor.'

How do you access the roof on a terraced house?

Neighbours aside, you do need to give some thought as to how your roofer is going to access the roof.

'Accessing the roof is likely to require scaffolding that extends over neighbouring properties,' explains Angela Kerr. 'It's important, and just plain courteous, to get permission from your neighbours. A friendly chat to explain what work you're having to get fixed.

'Try to pre-empt their questions before you chat – get an idea from the roofer how long the scaffolding will be up,' continues Angela. 'Re-assure your neighbour that the company will be as quick as possible, and acknowledge this is an intrusion on their life too. Doing this should hopefully set the right tone and means everything gets off on the right foot.'

If you don't have side access or any off-road parking, you will also need to think through how you will get materials delivered and where they will be stored while work is carried out. Don't forget that you might need somewhere to place a skip to dispose of old tiles and other waste materials too. If you are also considering a side return extension – a popular way to add space to terraced houses – this will also be a consideration.

Do I need planning permission to replace the roof of a terraced house?

Even if your neighbours have no problem with your proposed works, will planning permission be required?

'Roof repairs and replacements can usually be done under permitted development rights as long as there is no evidence it will cause an issue to a protected species, and you don’t live in a conservation area,' reassures Angela Kerr.

'For example, if you had bats in your attic you would need to get specialist advice. If you live in a conservation area you may need permission to alter your roof,' continues Angela. 'And anyone living in a listed building will need to use matching materials for roof repairs, which won't involve getting consent. However, if you want to alter your roof’s shape, height, pitch, internal structure or type of covering you would need Listed Building Consent.'

How long does it take to replace the roof on a terraced house?

As with any kind of house renovation task, this very much depends on how many people you have working on the job and how big the property is. Weather will also play a part in how long the task takes to complete. In addition, if the underlying timber structure needs repairing or replacing, you are going to be looking at longer timescales than if it is just the tiles that are being replaced.

In general though, expect the job to take around a week. It could be less if everything goes to plan, or up to two weeks if the job ends up being a little more complex than expected.

Should I use the same roofing materials as my neighbour?

This is one of the first questions people ask when carrying out this type of project. While there is no law to say you must match the tiles to that of your neighbours (although if you live in a conservation area it is always best to give your local planning office a call to check whether there are any planning conditions you should be aware of), aesthetically it does tend to look better. Using new tiles can also occasionally cause structural issues, according to Tina Patel.

'If you do not have a fire stop wall between you and your neighbour, you will need to carefully consider how you abut your neighbour’s roof so that you do not end up with leaks,' she explains. 'This can be particularly tricky when you use different tiles (which may be inevitable if re-roofing an old roof where you can’t get tiles to match).

'If matching tiles, check if anyone in the area is getting rid of any (as often happens if they are doing an extension),' suggests Tina. 'Otherwise, you may need to consider salvage yards to blend old and new tiles to get a worn, 'always been there’ look. If some of your tiles are in good condition then re-using them will get a good blend on the roof.

'Also always consider, when re-roofing, if it is just tiles you re-doing or taking down the whole structure,' continues Tina. 'Newer tiles may be heavier than the old structure can take (old roofs often have smaller roof rafters and after years of being in situ they can start to sag so you may need to reinforce them. Assess this and, if you need to add a new structure, getting it up to the roof will again mean considering the access.'

FAQs

How much does it cost to replace the roof of a terraced house?

Most homeowners facing this task will be asking how much does roof replacement cost – but will it be more for a terraced house?

'Costs vary,' states Angela Kerr. 'A 10 square metre roof replacement in the UK could cost anywhere from £500 to £2,750, depending on the type of roof and materials used according to Checkatrade.

'The best thing to do is get a few written quotes and remember to compare like for like,' continues Angela. 'For example, check what type of tile or felt is being quoted for and any extra charges for skipping or scaffolding. And then negotiate the price.'

One of the most popular upgrades owners of older terraced houses tend to carry out is to create a bigger, brighter kitchen. Take a look at our round up of kitchen extension ideas if this is a project you are hoping to undertake.

Your roof plays a huge rule in establishing your home’s aesthetic, so if you’re updating your roof as part of a bigger home renovation it’s important to select a covering that sits beautifully alongside the rest of the external materials.

The scope of the works you’re taking on might range from rectifying a few broken or damaged tiles to replacing the roof, and covering, entirely. If you’re only replacing a few tiles, it’s important to find as close a match to the existing units as possible.

If you’re re-roofing the entire property, however, there are numerous factors to bear in mind when it comes to specifying new tiles, including the size and shape of the units, as well as the pitch of the roof you’re covering. You’ll also need to check whether your choice of roof tile will be dictated by any local planning requirements, as well as factoring in how much budget you have available for your roof upgrade.

Here, we take a closer look at the options for roof tiles, highlighting the advantages and key considerations to bear in mind for each.

What types of roof tiles can you get?

Whether you are replacing a couple of tiles, roofing an extension or replacing your roof entirely, you'll need a clear understanding of the different types of roof tiles available.

Concrete

Fabricated to a uniform size, colour and finish, the crisp, clean aesthetic of concrete tiles makes them a favourite choice for modern houses. On the plus side, they come in a huge range of different shades to suit your home, and thanks to the consistent dimensions of concrete tiles, they’re also easy to install – especially if you choose interlocking units that click together for a quick and easy job.

Another advantage of concrete tiles is the cost, as they’re cheaper than materials like slate and slate – expect to budget from £30 per m2 for concrete units, on a supply only basis.

If you’re after a low-maintenance solution, concrete is a smart option – simple things to look out for include moss and dirt build-up that needs to be cleaned every three to five years, on average. Providing you carry out the right upkeep, you can expect concrete tiles to last between 30 and 70 years.

On the downside, concrete lacks the natural colour variations you’d get with clay or stone tiles. Plus, concrete tiles are not through-coloured in the same way as clay or slate units, so the initial shade of the tiles is likely to fade over time. They’re also heavier than clay, so if you’re switching clay units for concrete, your roof might require some form of structural reinforcement.

Clay

If you want a characterful look, clay tiles might be the go-to option for your project. 'Roof tiles made from clay possess a natural beauty that can continue to add character and value to a roof from one generation to the next,' says Alastair Holding from Dreadnought Tiles. 'Observing old clay roofs around the country, it’s easy to see how plain clay tiles bring individuality and warmth to a property.'

Clay tiles come in a broad spectrum of colours, from warm reds to rich blues. As the tiles are made from a natural material, the colour won’t fade over time due to exposure to UV light. Numerous shapes are available, too, ranging from crisp plain tiles to S-shaped pantiles, through to more ornate designs like bullnose and club profiles.

Machine-made and characterful hand-crafted clay tiles are available, which means they suit an array of homes. 'As plain clay tiles have been an integral and cherished part of the English built environment for centuries, they’re frequently used in listed buildings and houses within Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty and Conservation Areas, where strict planning regulations require replacement tiles to match the originals,' says Alastair.

It's worth checking your roof for any broken or missing tiles on a regular basis, as well as paying attention to any buildup of debris, leaves, moss and algae growth that needs to be cleaned away. A well-maintained clay tile roof can last above 100 years.

Roof pitch is a key consideration when specifying clay tiles – low pitches should typically be avoided. 'This is because clay tiles overlap on the roof to allow water to drain off quickly, but on low pitches, the increased risk of pooling can lead to water ingress,' says Alastair. Some modern interlocking tiles work at a pitch of 15°, though a pitch of any less than that might work better with another type of tile.

Expect to pay a minimum of £40 per m2 for machine-made units and as much as £80 per m2 for hand-made products.

Slate

Thanks to the natural variations in colour and grain across the surface of each tile, the natural appearance of slate makes it a desirable option for traditional and contemporary homes. Depending on the source quarry, you can find slate tiles in shades ranging from deep blue-grey to purple and green.

'Unlike concrete or clay tiles, slate has a naturally split, fine-grained finish that adds elegance and depth,' says Rosie Connor from JRC Slate. 'It’s the difference between a tailored suit and an off-the-peg outfit – both do the job, but one’s unmistakeably premium.' Slate tiles work beautifully on period properties and traditional rural buildings. 'That said, a modern slate roof can also elevate contemporary architecture,' says Rosie.

Durability and an impressive service life are two of slate’s main advantages – you can expect well-maintained slate tiles to last 100+ years, with premium slates offering up to 150 years. Slate offers good sustainability credentials, too, as it the tiles can be recycled at the end of their useful life.

Slate is a premium product, so high-quality tiles come with the price tag to match. According to Checkatrade, the average stone slate roof cost is around £160 to £210 per m². Slate is heavy, too, so you’ll need to check whether your roof structure needs reinforcing before the tiles are installed and factor this into the costs.

When it comes to assessing the quality of your tiles, the location they were quarried in is important. Those sourced from Cumbria, Wales or Cornwall are typically premium quality. Imported products can be more cost-effective, though it’s important to check they have been tested to BS EN12326 standards.

'Homeowners need to thoroughly vet the installer,' advises Ben Fernandez Fontan from Galex – Iconic Slate. 'Installing slate is an art, requiring skill and many years of training and experience. Ideally, see some of their previous slate projects. Do the homework to limit the possibility of a poorly installed roof, it will be very costly to remedy later.'

'Low pitched roofs of less than 22° in sheltered areas, or less than 25° in unsheltered areas will be problematic,' adds Ben.

In terms of maintenance, a professional inspection is recommended every few years to check for any tiles that have slipped out of place or become damaged.

Fibre-cement

Roof tiles made from fibre-cement are often chosen as a cost-effective alternative to authentic slates. The bulk of the savings, however, are typically made from the installation rather than the units themselves – the uniformity of the tiles means they’re easier to fit and will save your roofer time, as they won’t have to grade and sort the tiles as they would when installing genuine slate tiles.

On the plus side, fibre-cement units are suitable for lower roof pitches than real slate tiles would be. They’re cheaper, too – which is good news if you’re working to a tight budget! The price depends on how many roof tiles you need per m2, which will depend on the pitch of your roof. Expect to pay from £3 per unit.

The uniformity of fibre-cement tiles means they’re a good fit for modern homes, though it’s worth bearing that unlike slates, tiles made from this material will fade in colour over time. Plus, if you’re after the unique surface texture of genuine roof slates, fibre-cement might not be the best fit for your project.

Expect a service life between 20 and 60 years for a fibre-cement roof that is well-maintained and periodically cleaned and inspected for loose or damaged tiles.

Stone

Other natural stone varieties, including limestone and Yorkstone, are ideal for establishing a characterful aesthetic. Tiles of this type are often viewed favourably by planning departments when being used in areas where locally quarried stone is the vernacular style. Similarly to clay and slate, natural stone tiles are through-coloured, so they won’t fade over time. Plus, they’re extremely strong and durable.

As with other roof tiles, it’s worth checking your stone roof a couple of times a year for moss growth. Plus, the eaves and gutters should be cleared of debris regularly. A well-maintained stone roof will last 100+ years.

Natural stone is a premium option – expect to pay a minimum of £80 per m2. The greater cost means this type of tile is only really worth it for heritage or listed homes, and those in areas where it’s required to fit in with the local vernacular (e.g. limestone tiles in the Cotswolds).

What kind of roof tiles do I have?

Whether you’re re-roofing the whole house or simply replacing a selection of damaged tiles, it’s important to select the tile that’s going to best match the property – especially if your works fall into the latter category.

The most common roofing materials used in the UK are clay, slate and concrete. So, it’s likely that if your home has a tiled roof, it’ll be made from one of these three materials. While concrete is more common in modern homes, slate was a popular solution for houses built in the Victorian era.

Traditional clay roof tiles come in a variety of colours, including red, brown and grey – so look out for these hues across the surface of the unit. Concrete also comes in an array of colours and may have a slightly mottled colour and texture. Slate tiles may have more of an irregular shape, and a colour in the grey/purple/green range. If you’re unsure, consult a professional roofer.

It’s also worth bearing in mind that some types of roof tile are synonymous with certain areas of the country, as the predominant aesthetic is based on which raw materials are sourced locally. For instance, if you live in Wales, Cornwall or Scotland, it might be more likely that you have a natural slate roof. Homes in the Midlands, however, are more likely to have clay roof tiles. Traditional houses in the Cotswolds may be topped with characterful limestone tiles.

The shape of the tile can be informed by the region, too. For example, houses the south-east of the country (particularly Kent) are known for peg and plain tiles, whereas homes in Norfolk and up the east coast are oven topped with pantiles, which feature a distinctive S-shaped profile.

To work out your budget, you'll need a clear understanding of how much a new roof costs. Fortunately, our comprehensive guide can help.

The roof is one of the most important parts of your home’s structure, which means it’s vital to keep on top of maintenance to ensure your property remains warm and dry. But even with effective maintenance, how often does a roof need replacing?

Undertaking a general assessment of your roof’s condition every six months or so will allow you to pick up any potential issues, from moss growth to loose tiles, as soon as they crop up. That way the problem can be dealt with promptly before it has the chance to evolve into a bigger issue that means you have to replace your roof entirely.

Here, we investigate how often roofs typically need replacing, the factors that will affect your roof’s lifespan and what you can do to extend it.

How often does a roof need replacing?

How often a roof needs replacing depends on the type of covering your roof has and how well it has been maintained over the years. If minor issues, such as a few loose tiles, are addressed as soon as they arise it can save you the hassle of fixing a bigger problem that’s been left to worsen over time.

For instance, if loose or damaged tiles are not replaced swiftly, the risk of water ingress increases. Eventually, this could cause serious problems with the supporting structure of the roof. Damage to the roof flashings at junctions across the roof could lead to leaks, too.

'To prolong an existing roof it’s advisable to undertake inspections regularly, to spot any potential defects early that could become a problem if not addressed,' says Johnny Lovett from Grangeway Partners.

'You can do things like cleaning gutters, checking for slipped tiles, inspecting for moss or water ingress and checking the hip and ridge tiles for any defective mortar,' advises Johnny. 'Small repairs can greatly extend the life expectancy of a roof.'

How long should a roof last?

Of course, there are multiple factors that could affect your roof’s lifespan, from the quality of the material covering your roof to the prevalent weather conditions in your area. Even the presence of overhanging tree branches could cause damage to your roof.

A pitched roof with a slate covering has the potential to last well over 100 years – a covering comprising premium slate tiles could even last 150 years, providing it is well maintained. Clay tiles are likely to last in the region of 100 years, while concrete tiles should last a minimum of 30 years.

'If you have a flat roof, a bitumen felt covering will typically last about 20-25 years. Single ply membranes typically last around 25-40 years and an EDPM rubber roof can last 25 to 50 years,' says Johnny.

What factors affect the lifespan of a roof?

The quality of the finish you use plays a huge role in determining how long the roof covering should last. For instance, while there are various grades of roof slate on the market, thicker tiles made from high-quality slate will outlast thinner units.

Installation is another important aspect to consider, as a poorly fitted roof covering is more likely to encounter issues from the outset, ultimately leading to a shorter life span.

Building regulations also stipulate the importance of having a roof that’s well ventilated. Get this aspect wrong, and you run the risk of moisture getting trapped inside the building, which could lead to condensation and long-term damp issues.

'Ventilation is extremely important for all roofing materials; it will maintain your slates and tiles in good condition by drying sooner,' says Ben Fernandez Fontan from Galex – Iconic Slate. 'More importantly, it will also greatly prolong the life of the timber that the slate roof is installed upon – eaves and ridgeline venting is essential.'

Exposure to the elements is another important factor to consider. If you live in an exposed area with high winds or a coastal region, the weather conditions could cause more wear and tear on your property’s roof and increase the number of small repairs you’re required to carry out.

'Drainage is important, too,' says Johnny. 'Incorrect slopes and falls on a roof can lead to poorly draining water. Some pooling of water is allowable with certain materials, but it’s advisable to always install materials to manufacturer’s recommendations.'

How do I know when I need to replace my roof?

There are some obvious signs that’ll let you know when your home’s roof needs attention – leaking, internal water damage and missing tiles to name a few. Other potential issues might include failed mortar between ridge tiles or coping stones, sagging, missing tiles or flashing that’s either loose or damaged.

'The above don’t necessarily mean the roof needs replacing in its entirety, but they are signs to look out for,' says Johnny.

If you’re unsure about the scope of work that’s required, it’s worth seeking the advice of a professional to get a better idea of what the right course of action is.

If you notice that some of your tiles are loose, flaking or breaking off, it could be that they’ve come to the end of their useful life. If these issues only show up on a few tiles, replacing them individually might be sufficient. However, if it’s a significant number, it might be best to replace all of them, as a large number of defective tiles would cause the rest of the roof to fail within a few years anyway.

If you notice a curve in the roofline when viewing your property from the street, this might suggest that the timber rafters or trusses are no longer able to support the weight of the roof structure. Typically, failure of the supporting structure occurs as a result of water ingress due to poor upkeep.

It may be possible to remove the tiles from the affected area so you can reinforce or strengthen the timber beneath. However, depending on the severity of the situation you’re dealing with, it’s also possible that all the tiles might need to be removed – even if lots of them are still in good condition – so the overall structure can be repaired.

Unfortunately, you might even be required to deal with issues resulting from misguided work carried out on your roof before you even owned the house. For example, concrete tiles are often selected as a low-cost alternative to slate. However, they’re much heavier, so the roof structure should have been reinforced at the point of the tiles’ installation to cope with the additional load. If the right reinforcements were not put in, it’s possible the repair or replacement work will fall to you.

Bear in mind that building regulations approval is often required for roofing work. Current rules stipulate that when more than 25% of your home’s roof is being removed and replaced, you must also upgrade your insulation to meet the standards laid out by current government regulations.

When assessing the condition of your roof, it's worth checking for leaky gutters too so you can aim to get those repaired at the same time.

Exactly how much does a new roof cost these days? As one of the most important structural elements of any house, this is certainly not an area to be scrimping on, but neither do you want to find yourself paying over the odds.

Very often, people don't give too much thought to replacing a roof until the very moment they notice that something has gone wrong. Perhaps your's has sprung a leak, has sustained damage or you have spotted a fair few tiles missing and this has led you to look into getting it recovered, or replaced entirely.

Whatever your reasons for tackling this substantial home improvement task, costs are likely to be on your mind. Our guide is here to explain what kind of figures you could be looking at to ensure your home stays warm, dry and protected.

How much does a new roof cost?

Before fully delving into the cost of a new roof, it is important to point out that costs will vary according to several factors. The materials you are using to finish the roof, the state of the current structure (including the type of roof you have) and even the size of your house are all going to play a part here. Even if you have looked into how to maintain your roof, at some point it will need a little attention.

'Roof replacement prices will vary depending on the type of roof and its size,' picks up roofing expert Scott Adams from Roofing Association. 'When getting a new roof quote, it's important to let the roofing company know which type of roof you need replacing. We recommend getting at least five roof replacement quotes from professional, local roofers.'

That said, it is possible to get an idea of what you'll need to budget. According to MyBuilder.com, the average price for a new roof comes in at between £5,500 - £7,000. This is based on a three to four bedroom house.

That said, it can cost much more than this, Scott Adams explains. 'The cost of reroofing a house in the UK can be anywhere between £5,000 and £17,000 depending on its size and complexity.'

How does roof type affect costs?

There are many different types of roof and the style can have a big impact on costs.

'The average cost range for roof replacement depends greatly on the roof type and size,' further explains Andy Simms from MyBuilder.com. 'For instance, a hip roof covering approximately 64m² can cost between £9,250 and £18,000. On the other hand, a gable roof of the same size may range from £7,000 to £16,250.

'Flat roofs, typically used for flat roof extensions or garages, can cost between £2,800 and £7,500 for a 32m² area.'

How do these costs break down?

It is so useful, when getting quotes in not just for your new roof, but for any aspect of a renovation, that you clearly understand what's included and how these costs are made up.

'The easiest way to break down a quote is to split it into two categories,' explains Scott Adams. 'The amount you pay the roofer to install a new roof (approx. 60%) and the cost of roofing materials (around 40%).'

It is also possible to break costs down further which will allow you to see where potential savings could be made.

• Roof removal: The cost of this will very much depend on the state of the underlying structure. 'The cost of removing an existing roof is usually somewhere between £900 and £2,500,' reveals Scott.
• Materials: The materials you choose to re-cover your roof have a huge effect on costs and will make up around 40% of your overall quote. More on this later.
• Labour: Unless you plan on carrying out the entire project on a DIY basis, you'll need to call in the pros. 'The average cost of hiring a professional roofer in the UK is £200 per day,' says Scott. 'Labour costs are around 60% of the total cost.'
• Roof repairs: If the underlying structure of your new roof needs attention, you are going to have to factor this in. 'The cost of replacing rotten or damaged roof timber can be anywhere between £400 and £1,800, depending on how much wood needs replacing,' explains Scott.

What do different roof coverings cost?

Just as with house cladding costs, the materials you use for your new roof is an influencing factor.

The most common materials used for pitched roofs are concrete or clay tiles, or slates. Those replacing a flat roof often choose a single ply membrane, sedum or even metal sheeting such as lead.

The cheapest option is usually concrete tiles. If you prefer clay, opting for machine-made over handmade will save you money. While slate roofs are often more expensive (both for labour and materials) they are still a fantastic, durable choice.

To get more of an idea of approximate material costs, we've broken them down for you.

• Plain concrete roof tiles: £49/m2
• Clay roof tiles: £58/m2
• Slate: From £60/m2
• Single ply membrane: £90/m2
• Lead: £145/m2
• Sedum: From £50/m2

Do I need to replace my roof or could it be repaired?

Faced with these costs you may well be wondering if a full replacement is needed – could a little repair job be all that's needed? Repair is certainly usually cheaper.

Old tar or cement flashings around chimneys can be replaced with lead and, if you only have a few missing tiles these can also be replaced without too much trouble. Additionally, be on the lookout for signs of water damage or mould on your ceilings as this could be sign your roof is looking and needs attention. In some cases, however, you'll just get to a point where replacement might be the best long-term solution.

'The cost of a new roof might seem expensive at first, but have you considered the cost of having multiple roof repairs over the last decade?' points out Scott Adams. 'If you had hired a roofing contractor to replace your roof several years ago, you might have actually saved money by not having your roof repaired multiple times.'

FAQs

Can you claim for a new roof on your home insurance?

Whether or not your home insurance will cover a full roof replacement totally depends on your individual policy, as well as, in some cases, the reason for the need for the replacement, for example a fire or storm damage.

In some cases, full building insurance will include roof insurance and repairs, but this might not be for the full cost. Additionally, if you have asked for them to pay for a replacement, but they deem that repair would be a better option, they may only fund this.

Are there any hidden costs with new roofs?

Along with the costs we've discussed here, there are several things that could step in and mean stretching your budget further – it really does pay to be aware of these.

Check whether your quote includes:

• New gutters and fascias
• Waste disposal (you might need to hire a skip)
• Scaffolding
• Access (which will be particularly important when you replace the roof on a terraced house)

If you are thinking about buying an older property you do need to factor in certain, larger costs that are likely to be involved with its maintenance and modernisation. Along with new roof costs, look into whether replacement windows might be needed.

Ever since I moved into my 1970s detached house in 2015, I have wanted to change the conservatory roof.

Added by the previous owners, the south-facing conservatory was around 20 years old(at a guess) and had a glass roof, which made it unbearably hot in the summer and freezing cold in the winter. Beyond those wild temperature fluctuations, it meant the conservatory was unusable for around eight months of the year. And when not used as a room, it quickly became a dumping ground for my laundry pile or items waiting to go to the charity shop.

After grumbling about it for more than a decade, I finally took the plunge and replaced the glass conservatory roof with a lightweight solid alternative, and even just a handful of weeks in, the results have been game-changing.

1. I wouldn't have wasted money on stuff that didn't work

When I inherited my conservatory from the previous owners, there were no blinds in there, which was another huge problem for me and my super sunlight-sensitive eyes.

But buying a house is an expensive endeavour, moving house is full on and the idea of modernising the conservatory with a new roof at that point felt a step too far. And so I spent £3,000 on conservatory roof blinds, which were great for the brightness issue, but not very successful on creating a more comfortable temperature in there.

However, hindsight is a wonderful thing, and given how thrilled I am with the results, I wish I hadn't waited.

2. The temperature is much more consistent

Granted I have only been living with the new conservatory roof for a few weeks at this point, but that's definitely been long enough for me to tell that the drastic temperature fluctuations I was dealing with are now a thing of the past.

Heatwaves tend to trigger some hot weather anxiety for me, and the conservatory has always been a source of stress during the summer. On the hot days we've had recently though, it is now noticeable cooler inside the conservatory than out (with the glass roof, it often felt hotter inside than out during the summer), which is a major win.

While winter is a long way away, some cooler nights when the new roof was first installed have demonstrated that it's going to be much cosier in the conservatory when temperatures drop.

3. The sound reduction is impressive

The pitter-patter of gentle rain on a conservatory roof can be really lovely to listen to, but during heavy downpours, having a glass roofed conservatory can sound like you are sitting in a carwash.

No longer an issue with the new roof.

4. I know I can now use the space all year round

Over the last decade, I have tried to use the conservatory as a living room, reading nook, dining area and home office, but the issue of temperature has meant that none of those uses ever really stuck, and the conservatory became a no man's land that I never used.

But now it's going to be a much more comfortable temperature in there, regardless of the season, I'm so excited to use it more. In fact I've already used it more in the last few weeks than I have in the last 12 months.

Tips if you are planning on changing your conservatory roof

If you're tempted to change your conservatory into more of a conservatory extension by adding a solid roof, then here are my top tips:

• Choose a reputable specialist. With conservatories largely made of glass, you need someone with bags of experience to tackle changing the roof. They can also sort the other trades you'll need light electrician and plasterers, as well as Building Regulations.
• Have a look at your neighbours conservatories. I spotted so many conservatories with solid roofs while out on dog walks, and I can even see a couple from my garden. And so when it came time to choose the roof tile colour for my new roof, it was really helpful to be able to see real-life examples when making my decision.
• Incorporate window blinds for ultimate solar control. While they were removed during the building work, the window blinds in the conservatory are still as worth their weight in gold as the day they were installed.
• Opt for pelmet lighting. It might be included in the scope of changing the roof, but if not, I highly recommend you opt for pelmet spotlights in your conservatory. I had a wall light before, and I hadn't realised how inadequate that was until I turned the pelmet spotlights on for the first time.
• Mist coat the fresh plaster. Your solid roof will be plastered internally, and when you paint it, you'll need to do a mist coat (which is when you water the paint down for the first layer). I'm not always the most patient decorator, but I was very glad I didn't skip the mist coat.

While this new roof has made a huge difference to my home, it's not the only change I've made that's had a big impact. This small structural alteration turned out to be a gamechanger.

Despite the bad press flat roof extensions might have received in the past, now is definitely the time to reconsider if this is a route you are mulling over as a way of adding extra space and perhaps a little added value to your home.

Extension ideas come in all shapes and sizes and there is no one-size-fits-all solution out there, but in terms of value for money, aesthetics and a variety of options, flat roof extensions are up there with the best.

'Like any roof construction, they need to be specified and built well – there is a legacy of poorly built roofs failing all over the UK, but the concept of a ‘flat roof’ is still, I think, a good one,' says architect James Munro of Pace Architecture.

We agree, and so if you're planning on building an extension, here is our guide to flat roof additions, including all their pros, cons, nuances and your design options.

What is a flat roof extension?

We realise this might sound like a little bit of an obvious question... a flat roof extension is, as you might well expect, a way of adding extra space to your home, that is finished off with a roof that seems, to all intents and purposes, flat.

We say that because the roof in question is not, in all honesty, totally flat – but we'll come to that later.

Flat roof extensions are constructed using a deck which could be made up of softwood boards finished with a bitumen coating. However, increasingly, they are made using thick sheets of weather- and boil-proof marine plywood or oriented strand board which is fixed over the joists. In some cases, other materials, such as reinforced concrete or SIPs are used. The deck will be finished with your roof covering of choice.

Whether you are considering a flat roof for your kitchen extension ideas or as a way of adding a home office, what is there to love about this style of extension?

Pros of flat roof extensions

• Perfect for those after a contemporary look. 'Flat roofs can have a great modern look; perfect for more contemporary buildings,' says Rob Wood, managing director at Simply Extend. 'Some more contemporary materials, such as zinc or optional cladding, can bring the costs up.'
• Opportunity for roof lanterns. Roof lanterns are a beautiful way to bring light flooding into not only a new space, but also existing rooms that lead onto an extension. Flat roofs are ideal for installing all kinds of designs of roof glazing into.
• Cost effective. This is one of the more affordable ways of adding space.
• Possibility of a green roof. Flat roof extensions make it possible to incorporate some really interesting green and planted roof options.

Cons of flat roof extensions

As with anything, there are few pointers worth noting if you are planning on adding this kind of structure to your home:

• Possible shorter lifespan. In general, flat roofs tend to suffer from a shorter lifespan than their pitched counterparts. It should be noted, however, that this depends on the materials used.
• Lower ceiling height. Internally, it is harder to achieve higher ceiling heights with a flat roof as it is with pitched.
• Higher maintenance requirements. A little more in the way of looking-after is required to keep them in good shape.

Is a flat roof really flat?

On closer inspection, flat roofs are not, in fact, totally flat, and there is a good reason for this. In actual fact, the fall of a flat roof should not be less than 1:80 – ideally around 1:40.

'In reality no roof should be truly flat, with correct falls built in to allow correct drainage,' explains James Munro.

'With flat roofs, we view them as not really flat,' continues architect Gregory Phillips of Gregory Phillips Architects. 'They need to be laid to falls and have adequate drainage. We allow for the possibility that if downpipes get blocked then there are overflow pipes or redundancy built in to allow for these situations. We are also aware that large amounts of water can fall on a flat roof, so the upstands need to be robust. A roofing membrane with a substantial guarantee is preferable. We aim to have the installers' warranty backed by an insurance company.'

The most common method of creating this fall is to use ‘firring strips.’ These are battens which are cut at an angle before being fixed on to the roof joists.

Are flat roof extensions a cheaper way of adding space?

Flat roof extensions are usually considered one of the cheapest way of adding space to a house – and in some cases this can be true – so if you are wondering what your single-storey extension costs will be this could be a great option.

'The obvious benefit of a flat roof is cost, as they are generally cheaper than an extension with a pitched roof,' says Rob Wood. 'This is because there is less structural engineering involved and they are, for the most part, constructed from cheaper materials.

'The cost of a flat roof extension depends on the type of extension you are going for,' continues Rob. 'This can range from £30,000 to £75,000 and above, but this is dependent on many different factors, such as the size of the flat roof extension.'

Torch-on felt is the cheapest type of flat roof covering, with EDPM usually working out at around 25% more expensive. At the top of the price scale lie green roofs and sheet metal, such as zinc.

What kind of insulation does a flat roof need?

It doesn't matter whether you are planning a kitchen extension or will be using the new space as a utility room, single-storey extensions and two-storey additions need proper insulation if you want it to have a positive impact on your home. When it comes to flat roof extensions, good insulation is especially important.

'The best way to build a flat roof is to build a 'warm roof',' begins Graham Ford of Graham Ford Architects. 'A warm roof has a membrane bonded to insulation on a flat deck of plywood with a structure underneath.

'The other option is to build a cold roof, where the insulation is installed between the rafters,' continues Graham. 'This saves some build up, but the main issue with a cold roof is that you need to ventilate it to prevent condensation.'

In addition to these two solutions, there is an emerging trend towards something known as a 'hybrid roof.' These usually incorporate some form of ventilation space above a warm roof. The purpose of this is to reduce the risk of the build up of moisture within the roof.

What kind of roof covering can you use on a flat roof extension?

Just as with pitched roofs, there are several different ways in which flat roofs can be finished off to give them a waterproof covering.

The most commonly used materials for flat roofs are torch-on felts, EPDM rubberised roofing, fibreglass glass reinforced plastic (GRP) and single ply membranes, which are usually sheet rubber, fibreglass or PVC-based materials applied in one layer.

'There are a number of options in how flat roofs are waterproofed – GRP, liquid membranes or roll on membranes,' explains James Munro. 'All have their pros and cons and some come with an insurance-backed warranty.'

There is also the chance to to create a green roof when constructing a flat-roofed structure – attractive as well as environmentally friendly. That said, it is worth looking into how much does a green roof cost first, as this can be a more expensive option.

'We do more and more green roofs onto flat roofs,' explains James Munro. 'Green roofs have a number of benefits, including reducing water run off, and increasing biodiversity.'

Can you walk on a flat roof extension?

This depends on how the roof has been constructed and, in general, unless your flat roof has been designed specifically to be walked on, such as in the case of those designed to be used as roof terraces or for patio ideas, it is not advised.

Walking on a roof not meant for this could cause structural damage as well as being unsafe, although it is usually ok to step out in order to carry out a little maintenance, such as cleaning.

If you plan on using your flat roof extension as a terrace or as somewhere you regularly intend on walking on you will need to discuss this with your structural engineer and architect. They will design it to be stronger for this purpose, perhaps ensuring that the supporting beams are closer together or greater in number.

You will also need to check that the roof covering you are using will not be damaged by footfall. Single ply membrane is a common covering to be used in this case.

What kind of maintenance does an extension with a flat roof need?

As with any type of roof, a degree of maintenance is required in order to keep a flat roof in good condition and you will need to add this to your winter home maintenance checklist.

You should regularly clear the roof of debris and inspect it for any cracks or signs of damage. In addition, you will need to clean off any moss or lichen that seems to be accumulating and keep an eye out internally for any signs that water might be getting through.

Your roof should have been designed to allow water to run off, so if you notice water pooling, there may be a blocked gutter somewhere that needs addressing.

FAQs

Will a flat roof leak?

Not if it has been constructed properly and you have researched how to maintain your roof.

One of the most common causes of leaky flat roofs is bad design when it comes to how the new roof joins the existing wall of the house. There should be an upstand at the junction of more than 150mm and ideally lead flashing should be fitted here to make it watertight.

Additionally, if your extension is being built off a cavity wall, your designer should incorporate a cavity tray into the wall which will take any damp within the space away.

How long will a flat roof last?

Replacing a roof can be an expensive and disruptive task. How long your new flat roof will last largely depends on the roof covering you have specified.

In the case of torch-on felt you can expect a lifespan of 20 years plus, providing it has been properly applied and you maintain it well. EDPM and single ply membrane roofs have a longer expected life of between 30 - 50 years.

All roof coverings should come with a guarantee and you wouldn't want to select one with less than 20 years.

After some extension ideas for semi-detached houses? A flat roof design can often be a great way to avoid issues with blocking light or overlooking.

If you are considering a green roof for your home, then you'll need to research how much a green roof costs before you commit.

Green roofs, also known as living or sedum roofs, can help boost your home's eco credentials and provide a habitat for local wildlife. But it's important to carefully consider whether you should build a green roof before you part with your cash. After all, their installation can cost more than a traditional style roof, so you'll need to weigh up the costs so you can budget effectively.

To help you determine what you can expect to pay for a green roof, I've spoken to green roof experts for their professional insight.

How much does a green roof cost?

‘To get a green roof professionally installed, it all depends on the company and what type of green roof you want when it comes to the cost. It also depends on how much roof you have that you want covered, as you'll usually pay in terms of square metres. You're probably looking at anywhere from £50 to £200 per square metre, although the average cost is probably between £75 and £150 per square metre,’ says Steve Chiltern, gardening expert and director of LeisureBench.

Petar Ivanov, gardening and plant expert at Fantastic Gardeners, adds: ‘The cost can be a lot lower if you decide to do it yourself with simpler materials, such as around £7 to £12 per square metre depending on how large you want yours to be.’

Are green roofs more expensive than standard roofs?

Green roofs are more expensive than traditional roofs, but they offer a unique range of benefits that can make the additional cost worth it.

Charles Rothnie, Chartered Engineer at Perega explains: 'They're also pricier due to materials and the specialised expertise needed. While extensive green roofs (lighter, shallower, and require less maintenance) are often suitable for homes, it's vital to balance the benefits with these practical considerations. Always consult with a structural engineer and architect early in the process to ensure a safe, efficient, and cost-effective design.'

What can impact the cost of your green roof?

There are a few different factors that can affect the cost of your green roof, and if you're savvy, they could provide a way for you to keep costs under control.

1. Size of the roof. It may seem obvious, but the larger the area you want to cover with vegetation, the more it will cost. However, you don't have to cover the whole roof if your budget won't stretch that far.
2. Where you choose to install your green roof. If you are on a really tight budget, you could skip installing the green roof on your property altogether and opt for an outbuilding, like your shed, a child's playhouse or even a bird box instead.
3. Whether structural reinforcement is needed. Green roofs can be heavy, so you'll need to make sure the room(s) below can withstand the weight. If not, some structural reinforcement might be required which can add to the cost.
4. Your installation route. If you choose to install your own green roof, then you could save some money on installation costs. But you'll need to be sure you can do it properly and safely, otherwise you could make costly mistakes.
5. The complexity of the installation. If building a green roof is more complex, for example, if the design involves multiple levels steep angles or obstacles like roof windows or solar panels, you may need to employ a professional to do it for you. And the additional time it takes could add to the cost.
6. The materials and plants you choose. Premium materials and plants will come with a premium price tag, so make sure you shop around to make sure you don't end up paying more than you need to. However, it's crucial you don't scrimp on quality to keep costs low, as this could be a false economy.
7. Whether you keep up with maintenance. Even if you choose a low maintenance green roof system and low maintenance plants, it's vital that you complete regular checks to ensure everything is in working order. Skip this step, and your roof could fail before the end of it's lifespan, leading to serious damage which costs serious money to rectify.

FAQs

Is the cost of a green roof worth it?

Whether a green roof is worth the price will depend on how you determine value. If you are looking to make your money back in terms of cost savings elsewhere, it's not going to be a quick turnaround. However, with the longer term benefits, it may be a different story.

“In purely monetary terms, green roofs may not provide an instant return on investment, ' says Phil Spencer, property expert and founder of the property advice website Move iQ. 'Over time, the superior insulation they provide should save you money on your heating bills and reduce your carbon footprint, as you’ll need to use less energy to keep your home warm in winter.

'Green roofs may last longer than a conventional roof too, with some estimates suggesting that they can double or even triple the lifespan of the roof membrane that keeps water out and your home dry.'

Will a green roof add value to your home?

Done well, a green roof could add value to your home. While it may not add a specific percentage in the same way a kitchen extension would, the benefits of a green roof could make your home more desirable to potential buyers, especially those who value it's eco friendly qualities.

Phil adds: 'When in bloom they can be truly beautiful, and this, plus their rarity, can be a big selling point for your property.' By making your home more desirable, you increase your chances of commanding a higher purchase price.

However, if your green roof is incorrectly installed or poorly maintained, you could end up putting off potential buyers. Plus it's worth remembering that a green roof isn't for everyone, as Phil concludes: 'Don’t assume that every potential buyer will be willing to pay a premium for a green roof - some people might be put off by the extra maintenance involved.'

Boost your home's eco credentials even more by creating a wildlife garden to complement your green roof plans.

Caring for the ‘hat’ of your home and knowing how to maintain your roof is a top priority. 

Whether crafted from rich red clays, glistening slate or woven thatch, the roof is the unsung hero of our home. Not only does it play a vital role in defining the aesthetics of a property but it also ensures invaluable protection against the elements. 

However, a roof is not infallible. So, it is important to maintain your roof. Conduct regular checks to spot potential faults and know when DIY repairs will work and when to call for expert assistance. 

As with lots of other home renovation projects, summer is an ideal time of year to maintain your roof as the weather will be more favourable for carrying out repairs. 

How to maintain your roof

Whether you've recently replaced a roof or are hoping to extend the life of your existing one, knowing how to check and maintain your roof is vital. 

‘Slipped slates or tiles, failing leadwork and roof valleys blocked by debris will all wreak havoc if neglected,’ explains Douglas Kent, technical and research director at the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (SPAB). 

'When roof timbers become damp, rot, beetle infestation and ultimately structural problems result, and plasterwork to ceilings and walls may also fail or become stained.'

Repairing your roof can be a costly affair if significant repairs are needed – so it might be worth considering whether roof insurance is a worthwhile investment.

What are the different roofing materials

Roger Hunt, author of Old House Handbook, lists the different materials used for roofing. The material will affect how you maintain your roof.

• Clay tiles – Both hand- and machine-made clay tiles are available. While modern tiles have nibs that hook onto the roofing laths, traditional peg tiles have holes to accommodate a wooden peg. Tiles can eventually become porous, making them vulnerable to frost.
• Slates – Welsh slates, held in place with nails, have been widely used on buildings across Britain, and are lightweight and hardwearing.
• Stone tiles – Sandstone and limestone tiles are laid in graduated courses: the biggest at the eaves, the smallest at the ridge.
• Lead – An attractive and long-lasting roofing material, repairs to lead roofs should be undertaken by a specialist lead worker.
• Thatch – Widely used for centuries, thatching today is generally in either long straw, combed wheat reed or water reed, and there are distinct regional variations in thatching styles. If you have a thatched roof it is worth investing in thatched roof insurance.

How to check your roof

The best way to maintain your roof and prevent major roofing issues is to conduct regular checks. ‘It’s a good idea to get your binoculars out and have a look,’ advises Dan O’Sullivan of Exeter Roofing. 

‘The first sign of trouble is often a loose slate or tile in the gutter.’ Pay attention to junctions and ridges, and check the ground and gutters for debris. If you spot debris in your gutter it is wise to clean your gutters as a build up of water and debris can lead to further problems. 

Next, access the loft to check the underside of the roof. ‘Look for chinks of daylight; inspect the floor of the loft for tile, slate or mortar debris from the roof’s underside and condensation on roof timbers or roofing felt or sagging or spilt rafters,’ advises renovation expert Roger. It is also worth carrying out a loft inspection during heavy rain, as this is the easiest way to tell if, and where, water is entering. 

As you are already in the loft, this is also a great time to top up loft insulation – this will also help to decrease condensation and will quickly pay for itself.

If you have bats in your roof – or evidence of them – then you might need specialist consent before you carry out roof maintainance. The Bat Conservation Trust (bats.org.uk) will be able to provide advice about what signs to look out for. ‘It’s illegal to disturb or harm bats, or damage, destroy, or obstruct a roost. Doing any of these is an offence, whether the person doing it knew about the roost beforehand or not,’ explains experts from The Bat Conservation Trust.  

Repair and care

There are many potential areas of failure. One of the most common will be slipped slates or tiles. 

‘Slipped slates due to nail sickness/fatigue are usually a sign that the fixings are failing due to the lifespan of the roof, but it doesn’t mean that it requires a reroof,’ says Ian McCarthy, director of Leeds-based roofing specialist, Yorkshire Heritage Roofing. 

'The slates that have slipped should be inspected as these themselves may have failed, meaning that a few low-cost repairs should solve the issue,' continues Ian. 'If the slates are intact, further investigation of the roof should be undertaken to find out if the entire roof is suffering from nail sickness. If this is the case, a reroof will likely be required.'

Undulation is a common feature, especially in older homes, but while it may appear dramatic, it doesn’t automatically require remedying. ‘It will depend on why a roof is undulating; a lot of it is natural deflection where the timber has dried out,’ says Dave Rowlands of Heritage Roofing Contractors. 

‘Generally, the roof will have sunk over a long period and it shouldn’t be a problem, provided it doesn’t compromise the roof’s integrity,' Dave reassures. 'I’d be inclined to look in the attic to see whether any of the principal timbers are cracked or have moved off-centre. If concerned, engage a structural engineer.’ 

If your home is newly built, however, it is worth getting a professional to investigate potential causes. You do not need planning permission to repair an existing roof nor will you need to submit at building control application. 

Hiring expert assistance

Once you’ve highlighted any issues, it is important to employ a professional. ‘Roofing is a skilled job and, while there are many highly competent roofers, it is important to employ a contractor who understands the age and style of your home and the materials involved,’ advises renovation expert Roger.

‘Never use quick fixes, such as spray foams or liquid waterproofing; they may trap moisture, hinder repairs and are likely to prevent the future reuse of materials.’

Installing roof ventilation

Ensuring your roof has sufficient ventilation is vital in order to avoid condensation and damp.

‘You tend to get condensation where a non-breathable or bituminous-type felt has been used when recovering the roof,' explains Shaun Howland, director of Kent-based John Williams & Company.

'A breathable membrane is recommended. You can also introduce eaves ventilation and vent roof systems but, if it is a listed building, this may not be practical as they will be too visible.'

‘With older buildings, it is accepted that upgrading to modern standards might not be practical,' adds Shaun. 'Retrofit products are available to improve ventilation in roofs where complete reroofing is not anticipated,’

EDITOR’S NOTE: An earlier version of this article included a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote has been removed. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

Roofs are unsung heroes of our homes. They shelter us from the elements brilliantly, yet we take them for granted, only thinking about them when a leak springs from the ceiling. But a stitch in time really does save nine, so it’s important to check your roof regularly, maintain it well and know when replacing a roof is needed.

'The roof is one of the most important parts of your house,' says Lisa Grosse, brand manager at fibre cement tile maker Cedral. 'It offers protection from the elements and keeps your home cool in summer and warm in winter. That’s why it deserves good care and maintenance, before there’s a major problem, to limit disruption and expense.'

Inspect your roof regularly so you are able to get away with a few more affordable repairs. When a roof replacement is required, it’s a big job best planned in advance so you don't want to be suddenly caught out.

When to replace a roof – signs it’s time for a new one

Knowing how long a roof should last, and how often it needs replacing is key when you're a homeowner. But its also crucial you know the signs of wear and tear to look out for, regardless of the type of roof you have.

Inspect from inside

Inside your home, look out for leaks and more. 'Water dripping into your house from the roof is never a good sign and potentially flags up missing slates or tiles, blocked gutters and long-term damage,' says Lisa Grosse at Cedral.

Inside, other signs that you have roof or guttering problems include peeling paint and water damage high up. Low down, they’re more likely to be leaks or damp.

Inspect in the loft

If you’re in an unconverted loft and can see a chink of daylight, you have a problem. Unless it’s a tiny one, low down, where there should be a ventilation gap under the eaves, between the roof and the wall. A chink of light means you have a hole in the roof where a slate or tile has slipped. Water can get in, so you need a bucket… and you need to call a roofer. You should also inspect timber for signs of mould, damp, moisture and rot.

If you have a loft conversion, look out for leaks after heavy rain. And while you won’t be able to see the inside of the roof, you may have Velux-style windows. Open the window and poke your head out for a close-up inspection of the roof. Are any tiles or slates missing or broken? Are gutters blocked?

Inspect from outside

Cross the street and look back at your roof. Do the same from the bottom of the garden. Hopefully, you’ll get a good vantage point, to see whether any slates or tiles are missing.

'Walk around your house and check for piles of leaves, debris and any build up – a good tip is to use binoculars – as these trap moisture from rain and can cause damp,' says Sunny Lotay, national commercial manager at PermaRoof.

The view from outside should also help you see the shape of the roof. Is the roofline sagging?

'If the roof is visibly sagging, it may need extra supporting rafters or struts, or it could be a sign that the roof is too heavy, in which case it will need to be replaced with a lighter material,' says Lisa Grosse at Cedral.

Inspect every element

A roof isn’t just the slates, tiles or alternatives. It’s also the timber that supports them, the chimney and guttering. These all need inspecting and they should all be brought up to scratch when renewing a roof.

'Gutters need regular cleaning to prevent the build-up of vegetation which prevents water draining off the roof and away from the house,' says Lisa Grosse at Cedral. 'Obstructions can also build up in the valleys in your roof, causing further water damage. Finally, check the flashing around your chimney regularly as damaged flashing can be vulnerable to water penetration. Water damage builds up over time and may mean that the roof needs replacing.'

What are the benefits of replacing a roof?

'The main benefit to replacing a roof is peace of mind,' says Thomas Goodman at MyJobQuote.co.uk. 'Once it’s done, there’s less maintenance to do and less to worry about when bad weather hits.'

It's mostly peace of mind and limits how much maintenance you'll need to do, but a roof renewal is also a great time to top up loft insulation. Good insulation pays for itself fast.

'Faulty or poorly insulated roofs typically account for a quarter of heat loss in the home,' says Sunny Lotay at PermaRoof. 'This can be costly, especially as energy prices are at an all-time high.'

Roof materials

If you need to replacing your roof, you'll need to understand the different types of roof tiles and coverings available to you.

Slates

Slate is a traditional roofing material so it looks authentic and is long-lasting. But it’s expensive as there are only a few slate mines left in the UK. Slates have the advantage of being lighter than tiles, so need less structural support.

If you like the look of slates, it’s worth considering fibre cement slates (see below) too.

Tiles

Concrete tiles are the most popular man-made option. They’re affordable and easy to lay but heavy – so check that your roof structure can support them if you’re not replacing like with like. They’re low-maintenance and fire-resistant too. But concrete is naturally porous, so unless they have a protective coating, moss and lichen can be a problem and the tiles can be frost-damaged. But a protective coating drives up the price.

Terracotta tiles are attractive, with a traditional look. They’re also very durable and the natural colour doesn’t fade. But again terracotta tiles are heavy.

Fibre cement slates

Fibre cement slates are cheaper than natural slates but offer a traditional slate look. They’re long-lasting and lighter, so make a good slate replacement because you don’t need a stronger roof structure. They can also come in a range of shades.

The Cedral range includes a number of options, from the premium Rivendale with dressed edges to the traditional-looking, more affordable Birkdale.

Other materials – thatch, metal, glass, green

Thatching is a dying art, so to replace a thatched roof you’ll need to find a skilled craftsperson. The good news is, treated well, a thatched roof can last up to 40 years. You’ll need fire protection, and ensure that you are covered by thatched roof insurance.

Metal roof coverings are growing in popularity because they give buildings a modern, eye-catching style and provide a good level of durability, but some are incredibly expensive to use and although they’re quick to install, you’ll need a roofer that knows what they’re doing. Metals such as copper, aluminium and zinc can dent and be noisy, so make sure to explore your options thoroughly.

Glass roofs are pricey thanks to the manufacturing and transportation costs of the large panels. They’re attractive and bring plenty of natural light, but best reserved for conservatories and extensions. Even with specialist glass, you can find yourself with too much light and too much heat on a summer’s day. It’s usually wiser to go for small sections of glass roof or roof windows.

Green roofs are fashionable and sustainable but you need extra support for their added weight. Their biodiversity is especially valuable in urban areas and they help insulate your home. As well as structural support, think about the practicalities in advance: will the planting need maintenance and can you safely access it? For this reason, a green roof suits accessible flat roofs low down, not pitched roofs high up.

With any non-standard roof material – that’s anything except slates or tiles – double-check that your home insurance policy covers it.

Flat roof materials

Felt flat roofs have a lifespan of 10-20 years, though they can last longer. Unlike the simple felt on a shed roof, flat roofs on houses use “torch on felt”, three layers welded together with a blowtorch.

A longer-lasting alternative ideal for the flat roof of a house, where repairs require scaffolding, is EPDM. This rubber roof membrane is great for longevity and performance. For example, PermaRoofEPDM has an expected lifespan of more than 50 years.

Whatever the material, if a substantial amount of your roof is flat, check that you have flat roof insurance to cover it.

How long does it take to replace a roof?

A good roofing company can replace a roof in just one to two weeks depending on the size of your house, weather conditions and how many people are working on it.

How to replace a roof - what to expect

While the process of replacing a roof might seem pretty straightforward, it does depend on the type of property you live in. After all, the process of replacing the roof of a terraced house will have a different set of concerns and challenges than that of a detached house.

Scaffold and skip

According to Goodman, your roof will be thoroughly inspected and then the old materials will be stripped. This starts with the ridge and roof tiles, and then the battens and old felt or moisture membrane are removed. Anything reusable is carefully taken down and stacked to one side.

Structure

The supporting structure of your roof will be exposed and any broken or rotten timbers will be replaced.

Next, to comply with building regs, the roof will have thermal insulation fitted between the rafters, covered by a breathable membrane.

Slates or tiles

Your new battens are laid horizontally over the top, then slates or tiles are fitted to the battens.

Important details like guttering, vents, valleys and the lead flashing around the chimney will all get attention, to ensure the reroof is sound – keeping your home dry and your loft free of damp.

Working with solar panels

It’s easy to remove and re-install solar panels before and after the roofing works, according to a spokesperson from Checkatrade.com. But the costs will vary depending on a few factors.

Obviously, if you’re changing the number or layout of your solar panels, there will be an added cost. And changing the roof pitch or orientation will affect performance. Photo voltaic solar panels might need new inverters.

Even a simple change might have an impact. For example, is the tile type changing? If yes, the roof fixings for the panels will change, so that’s an added cost.

Checkatrade.com recommends speaking to your original solar panel installer at the same time as your roofer, so that the works are carried out in the right order and so that your warranty isn’t voided.

Do I need planning permission for replacing a roof?

A new roof falls under permitted development rights, so you don’t need planning permission unless you live in a conservation area or your home is a listed building, but this may not apply with major changes or if you're planning on adding solar panels.

There are stricter planning rules if you live in a conservation area or your home is a listed building. You can check this with your local authority.

How much does roof replacement cost and is it worth it?

Roof replacement is a big job and a significant investment, not a DIY job. Checkatrade.com a website which helps you find a reputable local tradesperson, regularly updates its guide to roof replacement costs.

At the time of writing, the average UK cost for roof replacement was £5,500 and the range was between £3,000 and £18,000 for most roofs. A gable roof (two pitched rectangles, like a sheet of paper folded once) is cheaper to reroof than a hip roof (four triangles, like an Egyptian pyramid).

Priced per square metre of roof, it ranges from £120 to £290 – a wide range because it depends on size and complexity as well as materials.

How long will a new roof last?

A guarantee might be for ten years but your roof should in fact serve you for longer, especially if you look after it, generally about 25 years.

What is the best time of year to replace a roof?

Roof replacement is possible at any time of the year but is best planned in advance.

Spring and autumn are ideal. Roofers should ensure that you stay protected against the elements, but your home will be cold if the roof is off in the middle of winter. And mid-summer is ok for you but hard work for the roofers themselves on sunny days.

Work should be done off scaffold and ladders, without people traipsing through the house, but it still could be worth scheduling it in parallel with a holiday. Especially if you work from home – the noise is hard to escape.

How to choose a reputable roofer

Look for local roofing companies with a good reputation. Ask friends and neighbours for recommendations or search on trade sites.

Check that they have worked with your choice of roofing materials before and check if they’re members of a trade association such as NFRC and CORC and are a registered company with a good track record.

The NFRC is the largest and roofing trade association in the UK. It produces a Homeowners’ Guide to roof work, including guidance on choosing a contractor. Homeowners can request a printed copy or read it online.

As with any trades, get quotes from three companies to compare. Ask for detailed quotes, so you know what you’re paying for, with a cost breakdown of labour and materials. And ask to see their insurance policies.

How long a warranty will your roof have and do they have Public Liability Insurance to protect them and you against accidental damage to neighbouring properties or passers-by?

Stretch goals

If you’re reroofing anyway, now is the time to think about other work high up. If you’ve been toying with the idea of a loft conversion or solar panels, you can economise by doing them at the same time.

It’s also the right time to contemplate solar panel installation costs. As energy costs rise and solar panels become more affordable, the payback time decreases. Even if you don’t want solar panels now, you can ensure that the roof structure is strong enough to support them, future-proofing your home for decades to come. There are also innovative solar panels that take the place of slates or tiles.

'Solar PV (photo voltaic) can be installed on almost any roof type. Only a few materials like thatch are not suitable. However, it is worth considering that with certain roofing materials, like slate, it’s currently cheaper to install inset solar panels than the slates,' says John Gilham, Technical Director of Green Building Renewables.

Companies such as Wales-based solar manufacturer GB Sol make roof-integrated solar panels, which save on roofing materials and reduce weight. It even makes PV Slates, which look like regular roofing slates but invisibly generate electricity. They’re ideal for discreet installations on period homes.

EDITOR’S NOTE: An earlier version of this article included a quote from a purported expert whose credentials we have not been able to verify. The quote has been removed. We regret this lapse in our verification process and have updated our internal protocols to reduce the risk of recurrence.

Glass is already popular in kitchen extension ideas,  conservatories and garden rooms for all styles of home, from period properties to contemporary new spaces. And it’s now growing in popularity as a material for partition walls and internal doors. It brings light into your home and lets you have your cake and eat it: you get the aesthetic of large, open plan spaces but the practical benefits of smaller spaces.

'Since the pandemic made home and work life crash into each other, homeowners are increasingly falling out of love with open-plan living, which was once so coveted,' says Victoria Brocklesby, COO at Origin.  'Families now need separate zones which can perform different functions, but don’t want to compromise on natural light entering a home by adding solid walls. Glass doors or partitions offer a great solution to this and are becoming more and more popular as a result.'

Glass walls also bring the wow factor. 'If you’re redesigning a space, most people want to include a wow factor of some sort and an internal glass wall is still quite a quirky and unusual choice. It maximises space and light, but it’s quite understated and gives a cool industrial vibe,' says Richard Davonport of Davonport Kitchen and Home. 

Glass wall design options

Glass walls can be simple partitions, incorporate hinged doors, bi-fold doors or sliding doors. Internal sliding doors follow the clever design of room dividers that cross continents and centuries. 

'The tradition of sliding screens can be seen in traditional Japanese houses, where spaces can be interconnected or made distinct,' says Gregory Phillips of Gregory Phillips Architects.  'We have used bespoke timber frames as well as steel frames. We have used clear glass to maintain views and obscure glass to allow light but restrict views.'

If you love large, light spaces but also want your rooms to be cosy and separate, consider glass partition walls and glass internal doors

What materials can frame glass partition walls and internal doors?

Steel and aluminium

The cost of a glass partition wall is down to the manufacturer and largely depends on the material. Crittall windows and glass walls, or Crittal style doors with steel frames, are a very popular look.

'Ultra-traditional steel options look fantastic, but often come at a high price-point,' says Victoria Brocklesby, COO at Origin. 'Aluminium is more affordable. These still offer a sleek aesthetic and the robustness to handle everyday life, but at a more affordable price.'

Bronze

Bronze has a unique richness and depth of colour that is striking for both traditional and contemporary architecture. 

'Bronze is an exciting alternative to aluminium and steel,' says Lisa Morton, Director, Architectural Bronze Casements.  'It’s available in two finishes: mid bronze, showing off a rich lustre, and dark bronze, lending its depth of colour to a clean, contemporary look. Bronze is more expensive than other options but the finesse of product is well worth the extra if you can afford it.'

Frameless

An all-glass dividing wall is barely visible, adding to the sense of space. For example, you can have a stairwell that’s safe, and meets regs, but seems to be floating. You can also use glass bricks framelessly to create an opaque glass wall with a vintage, industrial look.

What options are there for the glass in partition walls and internal doors?

Obscured glass

Glass walls and internal doors bring light into your home but sometimes you just don’t want to see from room to room. That’s where obscured, reeded and coloured glass can come in.

'Clear glass allows light and views, providing continuous yet specific spaces,' says Gregory Phillips of Gregory Phillips Architects. 'If you use reeded glass, sandblasted or a version of glass which obscures the view, visual privacy is retained whilst allowing for light and the sense of connection of spaces.'

What’s more, you can keep your options open – and potentially cut costs in the process. Consider going for plain glass and then, if you change your mind, carefully apply film to transform it into obscure, reeded or coloured glass. For example, this Instagrammer saved £100s on upcycling with reeded glass by using film instead. It takes careful application but it’s worth it.

Acoustic glass

Internal glazing tends to be thinner than external. So while it does insulate against heat transfer and sound transfer, it doesn’t do this as well as thick or multi-layered glass. You will cut draughts (ideal for draught-proofing ideas) and sound will carry less than an open-plan home design, but sound and heat do carry more than they would through a wall.

'Glazed walls and doors can help soundproof certain spaces,' says Victoria Brocklesby, COO at Origin. 'As standard, glazing tends to be 4mm thick, but there are often options to upgrade this to 6mm or even 6.8mm, which will help limit sound transfer. This can be a great option for home offices to ensure a tranquil working environment.'

Thicker glass helps and if you want absolute privacy, for a quiet workspace in a family home, for example, consider acoustic glass. This is a multi-layer glass that contains a special resin layer to reduce noise by dampening sound waves, while still being transparent. 

Smart glass

If you want clear glass for an open look but the option of privacy, consider Smart Glass. This clever technology includes a layer of liquid crystals: touch a button and the clear glass turns opaque. It’s seen more in corporate offices right now, for meeting rooms that don’t need blinds, but some architects are starting to specify it in homes.

Tom Butler from MyGlazing.com,  the consumer advice website from trade body the Glass & Glazing Federation (GGF), advises: 'In the UK and Ireland, there are a number of smart glass manufacturers including Diamond Glass and Walls of Glass,  both of which are GGF members. If you’re looking to have a smart glass wall installed in your home, find an approved local installer and discuss supplier options with them.'

What design considerations are there for a glass wall?

Can glass replace a structural wall?

'Structure needs considering,' says Gregory Phillips of Gregory Phillips Architects. 'Lightweight glass screens are not load bearing, so removing load bearing walls requires alternative structure. The vertical members, could be made to be load bearing, but they would be more substantial than most glazed screens people are familiar with. So it’s not impossible, but maybe not the best solution.'

Be careful what you wish for!

A glass wall that isn’t opaqued means you can see into the next room. Are you sure you want to? And think about practical considerations, a bit like good shop design. They are long and thin for a reason, because glass is great to draw in customers but you can’t mount shelves or rails on it. The same practical consideration is true in a home, so it's not great if you want to combine it with living room shelving ideas.

'Sometimes you don’t want what you create!' says Gregory Phillips of Gregory Phillips Architects. 'If you want a fixed wall with the ability to fix paintings or mount a large, flat-screen TV, it’s probably not the solution.'

Consider kick plates

Kick plates at the bottom of doors let you open them easily and safely, with your hands full.

'In high-traffic areas of the home, opt for doors or walls that are designed to withstand the wear-and-tear of family life,' says Victoria Brocklesby, COO at Origin. 'If you will be incorporating a glazed door into a room, consider adding kick plates to minimise scratches and ease opening and closing when your hands are full.'

Glass wall design ideas - 5 ways to incorporate glass partitions

1. The ultimate larder

A walk-in larder or pantry idea can use a glass partition for aesthetics and practical benefits. 

'There is less delineation between the kitchen and the larder, with a greater run of floor and ceiling space on display, so both rooms appear to be larger. This creates a boundary but ensures the two areas remain connected,” says Richard Davonport of Davonport Kitchen and Home. 

'Our Shoreditch kitchen features a Crittall Windows Innervision sliding door and wall. With its geometric lines, the lightweight, minimalist-profile frame is heavy on urban appeal and allows natural light to permeate from the main kitchen through to the pantry – an area of the home that often lacks in brightness.' 

What’s more, there are practical benefits. You can keep the unheated larder cooler than the heated kitchen. Architects can even choose which wall to put the larder on, and include an air brick behind cabinetry, to keep it cooler and ventilated, like a traditional larder.

Glass walls also save space. The Shoreditch kitchen uses 8mm glass, rather than the 4mm standard in Crittall screens and doors, but still have a much slimmer profile than a partition wall. So you gain valuable extra kitchen or larder space.

'With a sliding glass door, the homeowner can make better use of the space because they can be designed to allow a much wider opening and unlike a hinged door, there is no spaced knocked out behind,' adds Davonport.

2. A showstopping en suite or dressing room

Your bedroom is your private space and, if you have an en suite bathroom idea or dressing room connected to it, glazing can help the rooms connect and make that space feel bigger.

Glass is already the preferred material for shower screens, but consider a glass wall dividing bedroom and en suite bathroom or wet room. The glass can be opaque for privacy or even Smart Glass (see above) that turns opaque at the touch of a button.

The same is true for a dressing room, though practically a glass wall dictates where to put clothes rails, so consider the layout carefully.

3. Glass for a grand doorway

Oversized glass double doors – of the size you see more at shop entrances than in homes – serve as room dividers. When the double-doors are open, you have a large, open-plan space. But close them and the spaces stay light but are separate and cosier, with less noise and heat travelling between the two.

If the doorway is large, you can glaze it as a partition, with the doors being just part of it. Put double doors in the middle of a larger partition and you have a grand, but very practical, doorway. 

4. Dividing rooms

Glass walls and doors are a natural way to divide reception rooms, so you get a series of separate spaces for all the family without losing the sense of space you get from an open-plan design. They can also be used to great effect to delineate other spaces.

A small room set aside as a home office suddenly feels spacious if you add a wall of glass, but you still get some peace and quiet to focus on work.

Add glazing to a home gym and you get a visual reminder of how easy it would be to find time to work out. Add a glass wall to a small space where you store wine and it suddenly becomes a feature, rather than a cupboard. And of course glass is a stunning material for a conservatory. Use glass to connect a conservatory to your living space, bringing natural light into the house. You can even benefit from lower electricity bills because rooms are naturally lit for longer.

5. Stunning stairs

Safety is paramount when designing staircase ideas, and they need to meet building regulations, but traditional banisters and spindles don’t suit a contemporary design.

Add a wall of frameless glass and you can have a stairwell that’s safe, and meets regs, but seems to be floating. Or use a half-height glass wall as a balustrade for a safe barrier that doesn’t interrupt the view. 

'Glass walls’ biggest and most attractive benefit to homeowners is their ability to increase the feeling of space through increased light penetration and visibility when using clear glass,' says Tom Butler from MyGlazing.com. 

I love a green roof… which is lucky… I live underneath one! They’re an architectural feature that answers many of the challenges of our time be they aesthetic, ecological or environmental, perfectly. 

 When we seem to be building, building, building over more and more of the world, a growing roof softens the boundary between building and nature with plants, flowers and buzzing insects. This provides not only aesthetic and emotional benefits and with the catastrophic collapse in insect numbers it helps support these foundational members of our ecosystems and provides birds with foraging and habitat. In London green roofs have been crucial in supporting the conservation of Black Redstarts (an endangered species) and in Holland planted bus stop roofs support bee populations.

There have been other, less obvious benefits too. The soil on a green roof slows and stores rainwater helping reduce the pressure on drainage systems from heavy downpours helping to prevent flooding. They reduce heat gain within and around buildings as the moisture stored in the roof soil evaporates, it cools the immediate environment, very beneficial in urban areas. Heat waves and flash flooding are both increasing with our changing climate, a green roof can help mitigate these changes.

By protecting the waterproofing layers of a flat roof against extremes of heat and cold a green roof will extend its lifespan considerably, and include a 30-40 year warranty. Always go to an established, reputable company and diligently follow the installation/design guidelines as a leaking green roof is very, very painful and expensive to resolve.

Green roofs can be classified into two main types. Extensive systems have a thin layer of soil and are planted with sedums and other succulent/alpine type plants. They are lighter and thinner so more affordable but can be susceptible to drought as there is less soil to store moisture.

Intensive or living roofs have a thicker soil layer, which can support wild flowers and more biodiversity as well as being more drought resistant, but are heavier and thicker which needs careful consideration at design stage.

Structure is certainly a consideration with the additional weight from soil, especially when damp, needing to be factored in. In most cases an extensive green roof will not stress a roof beyond its strength limits due to the 'snow load’ structures that have been factored in but ALWAYS check with a structural engineer before installing. Intensive roofs are a different beast and need to support a heavy load of soil and water.

One thing that I would always recommend is a little bit of irrigation pipe laid onto the roof before seeding/planting. This need not be complicated. I installed the system on my roof and I am certainly no plumber. My system is a drip pipe and a simple manifold which I turn on manually for an hour or so if it has been very dry, either first thing in the morning or late at night. I appreciate it is using fresh water but it provides a little haven of lush vegetation for wildlife when elsewhere is dry. The evaporation also keeps the house cool which can help mitigate the need for mechanical cooling so has multiple benefits.

When it comes to planting and maintaining your first green roof, it can feel like a step into the unknown but it is all fairly simple. First make sure you get the right soil, don’t just dig it out of the garden and dump it on the roof. There are special soil mixes for roofs that have lightweight and absorbent material to hold moisture whilst keeping the weight down. Once installed with the right drainage layers and membranes below the next decision is to either install a grown roof-roll or cast seeds. Specialists grow plants on mesh layers that are lifted and rolled up, like a living carpet, which are delivered to site for immediate installation and results. For an extensive sedum roof this is the best route. For an intensive wildflower roof you can also get a pre-grown mat but it does get expensive, alternatively you can simply prepare the ground, sow seed and then be ready to weed for a year or two, more work but much, much cheaper!

Once established green roofs are fairly self sufficient, an intensive sedum roof will benefit from a weed and feed once or twice a year while an intensive roof needs a bit of weeding and crucially cutting down at the end of summer, with the resultant hay being left for a week or so whilst the seeds drop. Following that the hay needs to be raked up and removed so as not to enrich the soil. Remember you will need occasional access to the roof so think about this during design and construction.

Warmer weather sees us spending more time outdoors and if you’ve noticed that the exterior of your house could do with a spruce-up, now’s the perfect time. 

Whether it’s the front of your property or garden wall that is in need of some TLC, if you’re wondering how to paint an exterior wall, just follow our step-by-step guide to update your garden ideas with a lick of paint.

And with hot weather on everyone’s minds right now, paint expert Jimmy Englezos, Product Manager at Ronseal, tells us that painting exterior walls a pale colour can actually help to cool a property down. 

‘With summer well and truly here and many of us making do without aircon, our homes can really heat up during summer months,’ says Jimmy, ‘but if you’re looking for a reprieve, an often-overlooked DIY trick to beat the heat is an exterior update. Whereas darker paints absorb light and transfer that energy into your home in the form of heat, white paint reflects the light, keeping your home cool.’

How to paint an exterior wall

Colour plays an important part when it comes to the exterior of our houses and is an easy way of upping their kerb appeal, whether classic whites and barely-there pastels on the front facade, or bolder mediterranean brights adding colour with garden paint ideas.

‘Refreshing the exterior of a house can instantly transform your property and add value to it,’ says Matthew Brown, Technical Consultant at Sadolin & Sandtex. ‘Colours always look lighter and brighter on an exterior because there is more natural light outside than in, so we always advise to choose a shade darker and test a small area.’

‘Consider surrounding properties too when choosing a colour,’ says Matthew. ‘Keeping in theme with the rest of the street avoids a jarring scheme and ensures a continuous dialogue – is the street colourful, classic, light, dark or varied old and new? And when it comes to the garden, try to draw the outside in using a continuous flow of colour. Colour can act as a backdrop for greenery and plants, whether subtle tones or bright, it can be the star of the show and add warmth and energy all year round.’

So if you’ve decided on an exterior colour scheme, it’s time to get cracking with a roller and some paint…

What you’ll need to paint a garden wall

• Stiff brush, detergent and bucket

• Exterior grade filler

• Stabilising primer 

• Masonry paint

• Decorators tape

• Dust sheets

• Small paint brush, short or long pile roller and paint tray

• Ladder or scaffold

1. Choose a quality paint

When painting exterior walls, whether render or brickwork, using a specialist masonry paint is a must to ensure a protective and long-lasting finish. Quality masonry paints are designed to last for up to 15 years, so it’s well worth spending a little extra.

‘By using masonry paints you’re giving walls and front of house décor protection from weather damage, as well as mould and algae growth,’ say the paint experts at Dulux. ‘Our Weathershield Masonry paint is also made with anti-fade technology for long-lasting colour. Two coats are usually enough, but if you’re painting over a strong shade, you might need a third.’

Masonry paint is available in either a smooth or textured finish. Smooth is easier to apply and will provide a smoother finish, much like an indoor emulsion. Textured masonry paint gives a textured finish that is good for covering fine cracks and provides better protection. 

Keep in mind that a rough surface can double the amount of paint you need. Using a textured masonry paint tailored to your surface will reduce the number of coats you have to use and provides a more even coverage for uneven surfaces.’

2. Wait for a fine day

Summer is the ideal time to get any exterior painting projects done, with the weather dry and not too much rain around (hopefully). Very sunny days are best avoided, as extreme heat can cause paint to dry too quickly and give a clumpy finish. Aim for a day that’s not overly humid either, which can cause problems with paint drying. Check the forecast to make sure that it’s not going to rain on the day after painting too.

‘Before beginning your project, ensure that the weather provides good conditions for painting,’ says Ruth Mottershead, Creative Director at Little Greene. ‘The ambient temperature should be above 5°c with no risk of rain during application or drying. Try to avoid painting in full sun or on surfaces that are already warm as this will affect the way the paint dries.’

3. Ensure walls are clean

‘Cleaning your walls is an all important first step that you don’t want to skip,’ say the experts at Dulux. ‘Make sure walls are free of any dirt, debris or stains. We’d also recommend treating any patches of mould or algae with a fungicidal wash.’

‘Then, remove any surface dirt and loose or flaking paint by brushing with a stiff brush and giving the whole surface a good wash down. Make sure you then rinse the wall with clean water to ensure a quality finish that will last for longer.’ 

4. Prep the surface

Once walls are clean, you can start painting straight away on newly-rendered or new brick or cement block walls. For older brickwork or if you are painting over an existing paint finish, you’ll need to repair any damage first before painting.

Any loose mortar or render should be replaced and cracks filled with exterior grade filler. If the surface has become powdery, it should be brushed down and the wall treated with a stabilising primer before painting which will seal any unstable areas. Primer is especially important for any shiny or porous surfaces and will ensure that the first coat of paint adheres properly.

5. Cover surrounding areas

Use dust sheets or plastic to protect the ground or patio from paint splatters, as well as covering nearby plants and moving pots and tubs out of the way. Use decorators tape to mask off any areas not to be painted, such as doors, window frames, woodwork and guttering. Try masking the frame of the door, separately from the door itself, so you can still go indoors and out.

6. Stay safe with a ladder or scaffold

If you’re painting a high wall or the front facade of a property, always use a good ladder or erect some scaffolding to ensure that you can reach the areas to be painted safely. 

Make sure that ladders are set on a stable surface and firmly supported. Move the ladder, section by section, to ensure that you don’t have to reach sideways by more than an arm’s length while you’re painting.

7. Kit yourself out with a brush and roller

‘Use either a high quality synthetic bristle brush that is suitably sized for the project or a short nap wool blend roller for the best finish on smooth surfaces,’ says Ruth Mottershead at Little Greene. ‘Select a roller with a longer nap length for textured surfaces to ensure even and thorough coverage.’

Use a brush to paint corners, edges and areas not accessible with a roller. Avoid overloading the brush with paint, which can cause drips and splashes. Then move on to using a roller, making sure it is loaded with paint and applying it to the wall working diagonally and using even strokes, covering areas of roughly 1-2m at a time to keep a wet edge. 

Start painting near the top of the house and work your way down. This is a good course of action whether you are planning a block exterior colour, or planning more imaginative garden wall decor ideas.

8. Allow adequate drying time

After applying the first coat of masonry paint, you’ll need to allow it to dry thoroughly before applying the second coat, which will take between 4 to 6 hours. Try to complete an entire section of wall before stopping, so that the finish isn’t patchy and you aren’t left with a line where paint has dried. 

For the best finish, keep final brush strokes all in the same direction and never go over paint that has already begun to dry. Once you have finished paint make sure you know how to clean your paint brushes properly to use them for another DIY job.,

Do I need to prime exterior walls before painting?

Primers are specially formulated to stabilise unsound surfaces, sealing uneven pores and laying a foundation for the top paint finish. Applied using a brush or roller, a primer will help to improve paint adhesion by evening out rough surfaces, thus ensuring that you get better coverage and save paint.

Whether or not you prime an exterior wall before painting depends on the condition of the wall. If the wall is old and weathered, you are painting over a dark colour, or if the wall has been previously painted and is beginning to show cracks, holes or flaking, then it is advisable to stabilise the surface with primer before painting. You can skip using a primer if walls are newly-rendered or if you are painting over a previously painted wall where the finish is sound and not flaking.

Should you pressure wash exterior walls before painting?

Before painting an exterior wall, it’s always important to make sure that it is clean and free from dirt, grease and flaking paint or debris. There are pros and cons to using a pressure washer to clean an exterior wall. While it provides a very quick and  thorough cleaning, getting into crevices and removing mould, dirt and flaking paint with ease, it can sometimes cause damage to wood, blast off a lot of flaking paint and wash out mortar between bricks.

Whether you decide to wash the exterior with a traditional bucket and brush or use a pressure washer, you’ll need to allow the wall to dry thoroughly before painting. This will take longer after using a pressure washer and could take up to two weeks.

Whether you have a conservatory that has seen better days, then it might be worth considering whether a conservatory roof replacement could improve the space below.

Updating the roof is a great way to modernise an old conservatory, and can help to make the extra square footage comfortable year round.

But how do you know when it's time to replace the roof on your conservatory, what are your options and how much is it likely to cost? We put your questions to the pros to find out.

How do you know when to replace a conservatory roof?

A brilliant conservatory idea for when your existing conservatory is showing signs of wear and tear is to upgrade the roof. But how do you know when it's time?

‘How long your roof lasts after its initial installation can vary based on the material and build quality’, explains Gian-Carlo Grossi, Managing Director, Roofing Megastore.

‘Even so,’ he adds, ‘whilst cleaning and maintenance will help, all roofs will eventually need replacing. In some cases, like with polycarbonate, this could be in as little as ten years.’

There are a few signs you should look out for that will tell you when you might need to replace the roof of your conservatory, as Liam Spencer, owner of Northallerton Glass, explains: 'There are several signs that indicate when a conservatory roof needs to be replaced:

• Leaking — if the roof of your conservatory is leaking, water entering can damage the structure of the conservatory and cause damp.
• Sagging — if the roof of your conservatory is sagging, this can suggest that there is a potential structural weakness somewhere. This weakness can be caused by age, poor construction or through damage from heavy debris.
• Discolouration — a conservatory roof can become discoloured through weathering or moss and algae growth. Even though this may seem like a cosmetic problem, it can suggest potential problems with the roofing material.
• Cracking — if there are cracks in the roof of your conservatory this means that it is not structurally sound. Water can seep through the smallest of cracks, which can cause more issues in the future.
• Mould — a mouldy conservatory roof can lead to structural damage and cause health problems, such as respiratory issues.'

Is a conservatory roof replacement a good idea?

There are a number of ways that replacing a conservatory’s roof will improve its look and feel. Some of these you’ll notice immediately, while others will become more apparent over time. (I've just replaced my conservatory roof and already I'm seeing huge benefits).

But altering your conservatory roof can be expensive, so you'll need to weigh up the advantages and drawbacks carefully.

Pros of replacing a conservatory roof

• More comfortable ambient temperature in your conservatory to make it usable year-round
• Improved thermal efficiency of the space can lead to reduced heat loss, which means less reliance on other methods of heating your conservatory
• Reduced condensation, which in turn prevents any potential damage or heath issues caused by unwanted moisture
• Noise reduction is achievable with certain materials, which can help create a peaceful space below
• Banish unwanted glare by swapping a glass roof for a solid alternative
• Boost the appearance of your conservatory by replacing a dated roof with a chic modern alternative.

Cons of replacing your conservatory roof

• Can be expensive, especially if you opt for a solid roof
• Structural alterations may be required so that you existing conservatory foundations and walls can support the weight of the new roof
• Natural light may be affected, and could impact other areas of your home
• Planning permission may be required in certain circumstances, which will add to the timeline and overall cost.

What material is best for a conservatory roof replacement?

Opting for a conservatory roof replacement doesn’t necessarily mean you have to replace like-for-like. That's good news for homeowners whose current roof material isn't going to meet their needs moving forward.

Broadly speaking, you have three options to choose from:

• Glass — 'Advances in glass technology mean modern glass roofs can be very thermally-efficient keeping the space cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter.’ Additional self-cleaning coatings keep the roof looking good for longer and make maintenance easier,' says Stuart Walker, Head of Living Spaces at Tradelink .
• Polycarbonate — ‘Solid polycarbonate is virtually unbreakable’, explains Gian-Carlo. ‘It offers far greater strength than multi-wall alternatives, though they do not necessarily share in their insulating properties.' But this may be a good option if you are on a tight budget. Gian-Carlo adds: 'Should you be upgrading from an old glass roof, you may also find polycarbonate options that suit your current glazing bars – a great way to save early on.'
• Solid roofs — 'Opting for a lightweight solid roof turns a conservatory into an extension which truly is an all-year-round space to use,' says Stuart. 'Just be careful cutting off light; not so much in the conservatory itself as it will generally have lots of glazing to the sides, but to the room it is connected to. A solid roof also has better soundproofing.' There are lots of options to choose from, including metal and tile, but you'll need to check the existing conservatory base and walls can handle the weight of a solid top.

But in some cases, taking a hybrid approach to materials used is something a lot of people are now opting for.

‘A more contemporary space can be created using hybrid glass and solid panels,’ suggests Stuart. ‘It offers the perfect blend of allowing a light space, with higher thermal efficiency.’

Roof lanterns are one such option as Jonathan Hey, CEO of Aliwood Roof Lanterns explains. 'The benefits of replacing a conservatory roof with a roof lantern are that the room will be a more comfortable temperature year-round, through the use of solar-control glass.’

‘A roof lantern, he continues ‘will also reduce the noise on the roof compared to a traditional conservatory. They are typically more aesthetically pleasing, perform better, don't leak and offer greater longevity.'

How much does a conservatory roof replacement cost?

The cost of replacing your conservatory roof will depend on the material you choose, the size of the roof, and whether any additional structural alterations are required.

In terms of how costs may compare between materials, Liam says: 'To replace a conservatory roof, glass replacements can cost between £3,000 and £5,000, with polycarbonate being slightly cheaper and costing between £2,000 and £4,000. A tiled roof is the most expensive option, potentially costing between £4,000 and £6,000.'

FAQs

Can I replace a conservatory roof myself?

Unlike cleaning a conservatory roof, for a replacement you should always employ the services of an appropriately experienced professional.

The actual installation process itself will vary depending on the design and specific construction of your conservatory. Before any decisions are made on the type of roof and design, have an appraisal of the existing structure. This will inform what roofing options may be available to you — and what materials to opt for.

Working with a professional will also allow them to advise on specific solutions to problems you have with your existing conservatory to ensure you are happy with the final result.

Do you need planning permission to replace a conservatory roof?

In many cases, you won't need planning permission for a conservatory, and that includes replacing the roof.

But this is provided your addition, or alteration, meets the criteria set out under Permitted Development.

However, if your project falls outside of those criteria, or if you live in a house or area where your Permitted Development rights have been removed, limited or your allocation exceeded, then you will need to apply for planning permission.

It's always best to check with your local planning authority before making any changes to make sure you have any necessary consents in place before the work starts.

How long does it take to replace a conservatory roof?

Knowing the timescale of any structural project you’re about to undertake is key. The timescale very much depends on the nature of the work scale of the project.

In many cases, your roof provider will remove the existing roof and add the new one in a single day to ensure the room below is weathertight and secure. Then any finishing touches or additional works will be completed on subsequent days.

‘Assuming your materials have been sourced, a complete replacement can take anywhere between two to five days,' says Roofing Megastore's Gian-Carlo. 'Potentially longer if upgrading to a solid roof and if any plastering or electrical work needs to be undertaken.’

Before you start, make sure you get an approximate timescale agreed with those undertaking the work before the project commences. This way you’ll be sure that things aren’t left insecure and open to the weather any longer than is necessary.

How long will a new roof last?

Bearing in mind the complexity and cost of replacing a conservatory roof you’ll want to be sure that it’s going to be sufficiently long-lasting to make the project worthwhile.

Apart from quality and workmanship, a roof’s durability very much depends on the type of material used. Plus the particular options you decide to add to that particular roofing type.

'Most polycarbonate roofs have a life expectancy of around 10 to 15 years,' explains Gian-Carlo. 'Glass performs better with many expected to last from 20 to in excess of 30 years, with little discolouration. It is solid tiled roofs, however, that are the most durable. Tile effect and synthetic options often clock in well past the 40 year mark. Most metal tiles still performing well after half a century.’

If you're replacing the roof, it might also be worth incorporating some new conservatory interior ideas to make the space feel fresh.

The fear of costly damage to your roof may leave you wondering whether you need specialist roof insurance. This guide explains everything you need to know about what your home insurance will cover and when you need to speak to your insurer about any non-standard features.

A buildings insurance policy will cover your home’s roof. So, if something happens to it – for example, tiles fall off in a storm or a tree falls onto it – you’ll be covered for repairs. You’ll also be covered in certain circumstances if your roof leaks and this causes damage to your home or possessions.

If you live in a typical house the chances are that your roof is built with conventional materials, such as tiles or slate, and described by insurers as ‘standard’.

But if you have a ‘non-standard’ roof, you’ll need to tell your insurer about it.
Non-standard roofs include:

• Flat roofs
• Thatched roofs
• Glass
• Metal

Chelsea Shakespeare, household underwriting manager, at Adrian Flux, says: 'More people are swapping to modern designs and materials which last longer, are environmentally friendly and look great so need to approach a non-standard insurer, or broker, if they want to find it easier and more cost effective to get the appropriate type of cover.'

What is roof insurance?

Roof insurance forms part of your building's insurance policy and pays for repairs to any damage to the roof caused by a specific event, such as fire, vandalism, a storm or lightning. It also pays for any related damage to the structure of your home, such as problems caused by water coming in through the roof.

Andrew Cheney, chief risk and valuation advisor at Hiscox, says: 'There are a number of factors that an insurer will need to take into account before providing cover for different styles of roofs as well as considerations that may affect the insurance premium that you pay.'

The type of roof matters because it all comes down to the risk of damage and potential cost and repair time associated as far as the insurer is concerned, explains Chelsea. 'It’s extremely important that a homeowner discloses the correct roof so the company covering it can ensure they are equipped and prepared to restore or replace any damage so they can get their customer’s home back to normal as soon as possible.'

You’ll always have to pay an excess on a roof insurance claim – this is the part of a claim you have to pay yourself – so you won’t get 100% of the cost of the repairs paid for. You set the size of the excess when you take out your policy; the higher it is, the cheaper the overall policy will be. However, it does mean that in the event of making a claim you’ll have to make a bigger contribution towards the repair costs.

Anything caused by wear and tear, such as the nails in your roof corroding over time, isn’t covered. You may also risk being unable to claim on your cover if you haven’t properly maintained your roof – you haven’t replaced tiles that are missing, for example.

Any damage to the belongings inside your home as a result of damage to your roof would be covered by your contents insurance policy.

Do you need roof insurance?

All insurers include roof insurance as part of their buildings insurance policies so you don’t need to buy a separate roof insurance policy. If you need cover for a non-standard roof, this is offered by some mainstream insurers, such as Admiral, which will give you a standard policy but possibly with different terms and conditions relating to the roof.

There are also insurers that specialise in insuring properties with thatched, flat or other unusual types of roof, such as rubber or green roofs. A spokesperson for the Association of British Insurers says: 'Damage caused to roofs by a named peril will normally be covered by your home buildings insurance in accordance with the terms and conditions of the policy. You should always provide honest and accurate information to the insurer, to avoid any risk of the policy being invalidated or your claim denied.'

The spokesperson adds that cover is available for roofs of non-standard construction, such as thatched, or flat roofs, and an insurance broker can help with finding a policy that best meets your needs.

'When taking out insurance, it’s always important to know what you are covered for and to read the terms and conditions of the policy,' the ABI spokesperson concludes.

You can compare how much home insurance costs and buy policies through comparison sites or by speaking to an insurance broker. They will be able identify the insurers that are most likely to suit your needs and find you the best deal.

It can be particularly helpful to speak to a broker if you live in an unusual property, including one with a non-standard roof. To find a broker in your area, get in touch with the British Insurance Brokers Association

Insurance for a thatched roof

All insurance policies for thatched properties will require a ‘thatch warranty’ to be in place. The warranty will stipulate certain requirements which could invalidate a claim if they have not been adhered to. Many of these relate to fire hazards.

Andrew at Hiscox cites a couple of examples of thatch warranty clauses: 'The roof will need to be in a good state of repair and a qualified thatcher may be required to inspect the roof. Electrical wiring and circuitry must be inspected every five to 10 years depending on the insurer. Suitable fire detection and early warning will be required, including being monitored.'

Other requirements might be for the chimney flues of open fires and wood burning stoves to be swept by a qualified sweep once-a-year or more, plus rules about the materials that can be burned in open fires and wood burning stoves.

Insurance for a flat roof

Although many insurers will cover flat roofs as standard, the percentage of your roof that is flat could be a factor.

Insurers generally consider your roof to be non-standard if more than 25% or 30% of it is flat. By ‘flat’, insurers generally mean having a slope of less than 10 degrees. Having a flat roof can increase the risk of storm or rain damage, or burglary.

Emma Artess, specialist in home and lifestyle insurance at NFU Mutual, says: 'Different construction methods come with different risks.

'There is no one size fits all cover for home insurance, and this is never more than the case than with properties with non-standard construction such as thatched or flat roofs, or those with tiles made out of materials like shingle, rubber or plastic.

'At NFU Mutual, we can consider insuring homes with these construction methods, but not all insurers will have the experience and relationships with repairers to do so.'

How can I make sure my roof is properly covered?

As with any type of insurance, honesty is key. If you haven’t disclosed all the relevant details to your insurer you may find your policy is invalidated and you won’t be able to claim when you need to.

'By discussing your home and insurance needs with your insurer, you can have the peace of mind that you are adequately insured and that your insurer has the skills and capability to repair any damage to the home,' explains Emma.

'Where non-standard construction methods increase the risk of damage, or incur larger repair costs, premiums will reflect the higher levels of risk to the insurer.'

Emma also points out that thatched homes are often buildings of historical interest and require highly-skilled tradespeople and specialist surveyors to restore the property to its previous state.

How do I claim for damage to my roof?

If you need to claim on your buildings insurance as a result of damage to your roof, contact your insurer as soon as possible. The longer you leave it the worse the damage could get.

You may be able to make a claim online or over the phone, depending on the insurer. Check your policy documents to find out exactly how to do it and what not to do.

You’ll need to provide evidence of what has happened so take photos of the roof damage and any resulting damage inside. You may also need to show proof that your roof has been regularly inspected and well maintained.

If you’re making a large claim, your insurer will usually send a loss adjuster to your home to assess the damage. You can also employ an independent loss assessor to help you with your claim.

With thanks to Emma Lunn for her contributions to this article.

While you might have heard of one, you might find that you're not entirely sure what is meant by a party wall or a party wall agreement. You might also be wondering whether it is something you'll need to know about when building an extension or carrying out a renovation project?

If your property features a wall – or walls – that are shared between you and any neighbours, it makes sense that you will need to keep your neighbours informed of any work you are planning that will affect said wall – and this is where the Party Wall Act, and a party wall agreement come in. And you'll need to know if it's illegal to ignore the Party Wall Act.

In this guide, we asked experts in the world of planning permission and house design to offer their top advice when it comes to how to get a party wall agreement in place, the key terminology you need to know and what do to should things not run quite to plan.

What is a party wall?

'A party wall separates two adjoining buildings. It also includes ceilings between flats and garden boundary walls, essential structures that are shared between two properties,' explains architectural designer and renovation expert Charlie Luxton.

'Party walls are a fascinating insight into how people can co-operate and make life easy for themselves – or not,' muses Charlie. 'Like planning permission, party walls bring out the best and worst in people, occasionally resulting in simmering resentment or outright war.'

What is the Party Wall Act?

The Party Wall etc. Act 1996 is a piece of legislation that was brought in to help avoid disputes between neighbours.

'The idea of a ‘shared’ anything can be problematic so there is government legislation, The Party Wall Act, designed to protect and control what can be done to this jointly owned thing,' explains Charlie Luxton.

What does the Party Wall Act cover?

Before getting started on your project, make sure you are completely clear on what kind of works the Party Wall Act covers – as well as what you can do without the need for an agreement.

You'll need a party wall agreement if you are planning building work or home improvements that could affect a shared wall or boundary. Planning consultant Simon Rix from Planix.UK says: 'Common examples of when you might need one include:

• Building a new wall at or on the boundary between two properties.
• Making alterations or structural changes to a shared wall (e.g., knocking through, underpinning).
• Excavating near the foundation of a neighbouring property (within 3 to 6 meters) — you'll need to understand the Party Wall Act 3m rule.
• Loft conversions that affect a party wall or involve inserting beams.

It is also important to be aware that not all works affecting the shared wall will require a party wall agreement so you might just find your small kitchen extension ideas won't need one at all.

'Minor work like rewiring, repairs, re-plastering, decorating or hanging shelves can be done without agreement,' explains Charlie Luxton. 'Anything more significant and the Act comes into play and it is essential you either read it, or the detailed summaries you can find online, before you start any work to or near party walls. Before we get into these more invasive actions, it’s important to remember that laws are usually just a formalisation of being a decent and respectful person.'

What is a party wall agreement?

If you find that you have a shared wall that will be affected by your extension ideas, you will need to get a Party Wall Agreement in place.

'A party wall agreement is a formal, written agreement between property owners who share a boundary, typically involving works that affect a party wall or structure,' explains Simon Rix. 'The agreement details the type of work planned, the timelines, and how the project will be carried out to prevent or minimise damage to the neighboring property. It may also include the appointment of a party wall surveyor to mediate and ensure compliance with the Act.'

'The purpose of the agreement is to protect both property owners from disputes and potential damage,' adds Charlie Luxton. 'It sets clear expectations and prevents misunderstandings, ensuring that work is done properly and with consideration for both properties.' It can also be crucial to determine who is responsible for repairing a party wall should damage occur.

How do I get a party wall agreement?

Once you have ascertained that a party wall agreement will be required, the good news is that it isn't usually too hard to get one in place.

'To start, the property owner intending to carry out the work must serve a 'party wall notice' to the adjoining owner, at least two months before work begins,' explains Simon Rix.

To serve your neighbours with a party wall notice you need to write to them and include not only you contact information, but also detailed information on the work you plan on undertaking, whether that is to turn your kitchen extension ideas into a reality or add a small side return. You also need to include dates of when work will be carried out and any access requirements that affect their land. You can download party wall notice templates from the Party Wall section on the Government website.

'The neighbor has 14 days to respond, either by consenting, dissenting, or doing nothing,' picks up Simon Rix. 'If they dissent or fail to respond, a party wall surveyor must be appointed to draw up the agreement. A single agreed-upon surveyor can represent both parties, or each party can appoint their own surveyor. The surveyor(s) will assess the situation, prepare the agreement, and ensure that the work proceeds smoothly.'

FAQs

Is a party wall agreement a legal requirement?

Many homeowners are unclear on whether a party wall agreement is just a nicety or a legal requirement – so which is it?

'A party wall agreement is a legal requirement under the Party Wall etc. Act 1996 when you intend to carry out works that fall within the scope of the Act,' clarifies Simon Rix. 'If you start work without obtaining an agreement, the affected neighbour can seek an injunction to stop the work, which can delay your project and result in additional costs.

'If work begins without a party wall agreement and one is required, the neighboring property owner can seek legal redress,' further warns Simon. 'This can involve stopping the work via an injunction and potentially pursuing a claim for damages.'

You may be able to get a retrospective party wall agreement after the work has been done, which may be required to settle any dispute between you and your neighbour and ensure any damage is repaired.

How can I remain on good terms with my neighbours during building work?

Whether you are wondering can I paint my side of a neighbour's fence or are wondering whose job it is to cut a shared hedge, you should try to remain on good terms with your neighbours at all costs – it all comes down to clear communication.

'This is how I recommend you approach any work on a party wall,' advises Charlie Luxton. 'As soon as you are thinking of doing work to your home that may, in a worst-case scenario, damage your party wall then go and see your neighbour. Explain what you want to do and ask them if you can take photos of the current condition of the wall/ceiling to carefully document any cracks, damp, damage to decoration etc. These photos can be shared so there is a clear record before any work begins.

'For example, re-plastering that may need some existing plaster hacking off by hand is allowed by the Act, while mechanically removing plaster isn’t, as this can result in a few days of banging and crashing,' continues Charlie. 'This may cause both a nuisance and some cracking to your neighbour’s side of the wall. If your neighbour is not expecting the work they may get cheesed off, go and inspect their side of the wall noticing cracks that may or may not have been there before. If they are expecting the work and there are photos, all this is avoided.'

Charlie goes on to explain the other benefits keeping your neighbours onside can have.

'When you appoint a party wall surveyor, your neighbour has the right to refuse to use your surveyor and demand their own. You, as the person serving the notice pay for both!' he warns. 'They can also refuse to sign anything and, while the Act has mechanisms to negate this, it takes time and money. Open and early communication is by far the most effective way to head off these potential issues.

'Building projects are stressful enough without neighbour conflict. If you understand the Party Wall Act and follow its structure carefully you should avoid it getting ugly. If it does, at least you're not the one to blame!'

Wondering what to do with that bare wall in your garden? Luckily, there are plenty of outdoor wall decor ideas to help you shape it up, from painting inspiration to climbing plants.

Whether you're looking to frame your garden furniture ideas or experiment with living wall ideas, there's lots of room for creativity when it comes to revamping a garden wall.

The best outdoor wall decor ideas make a focal point of your space, or act as a calming backdrop for socialisation and relaxation in the garden. We've rounded up our favourite ideas, with guidance from garden design experts, to give you a little inspiration.

Outdoor wall decor ideas

‘Decorating the exterior not only weatherproofs and protects your home, it’s also the perfect opportunity to add design personality to the outdoor space,' says Ruth Mottershead, creative director at Little Greene.

‘You don’t need to revamp the whole façade to make an impact. A simple update such as painting an exterior wall to offset patio furniture can make the whole home feel renewed.'

These outdoor wall decor ideas will help you breathe life into your garden walls.

1. Grow climbing plants

Climbing plants are a feature of many outdoor wall decor ideas, and for good reason: they're a great way to decorate a wall or fence for a natural look, and with plenty of fast-growing climbing plants to choose from, your wall will be covered in no time.

'In a garden, the obvious thing to do is to put up horizontal wires and train climbing plants up the wall to green it up,' says garden designer Harriet Worsley. 'I often use a mixture of Trachelospermum jasminoides and Clematis so that you get the lovely summer scent of the Trachelospermum and its evergreen foliage, and then the blasts of colour from the Clematis flowers.'

2. Freshen it up with a new colour

Swap safe neutrals for a splash of bolder colour outdoors with imaginative garden paint ideas. Painting one wall a vibrant shade will give an outdoor space focus and makes a lively backdrop for an outdoor dining area or a relaxed seating snug.

'Adding colour to a run-down outdoor wall will transform the space,' says Becky Rackstraw, director and colour expert at Protek. 'On-trend green will bring a calm, restorative feel and transport small urban spaces from unloved, into a natural retreat.'

Lush shades of green like the Protek Royal Exterior Finish in Jungle Green from Amazon or bold blue are a great foil for foliage and flowers and will help highlight and accentuate bright colours.

'Clever and simple planting alongside with hints of metallic, gold or silver, on pots or planters give an edgy highlight and interest,' Becky adds.

3. Tile an outdoor wall

Can you really tile an outdoor wall? Absolutely – and according to Andy Ellis, former professional gardener and founder of Posh.co.uk, it's a brilliant way to decorate an outdoor wall.

'You can tile a garden wall, and it looks great if you do it correctly,' Andy says. 'You need to use porcelain or natural stone as they are weather-resistant and less likely to fade over time (which means you don't need to replace them as much).

'They need a lot less maintenance than other options, such as paint, but you do need to ensure the colours and design match the aesthetic of your garden and landscaping choices.'

According to garden designer Harriet, it's a brilliant way to add colour and texture to a bare wall.

'There is fun metal or porcelain stone cladding available, and I recently did a garden with grey split stone cladding used to cover a very high vertical wall,' Harriet says. 'We then planted three-metre pleached Elaeagnus trees in front of it, and it looked beautiful with the silver bar of leaves at the top.'

4. Consider lighting

When it comes to outdoor wall decor ideas, we can't forget about garden lighting ideas. With so many styles and sizes available, there's bound to be a product that makes your outdoor walls pop while providing cosy ambience in the evenings.

'Outdoor lighting fixtures can breathe new life into the area, and you will likely find that they add a whole new element of warmth in the evenings (especially in summer),' says Andy.

'Pillar lights are a great idea for bare walls,' adds Harriet. 'They have triangular beams that fan up and down to create a Kim Kardashian silhouette of light on a wall.'

5. Cover a plain wall with wooden panels

Featureless outdoor walls can be uninspiring to look at. If brickwork or timber isn’t in great condition, covering it up with wooden panelling or a trellis will help disguise any imperfections.

Use several sections of horizontal fence panelling to create a vertical mini garden where you can display smaller plant pots and baskets. Painting wall panels black creates a bold contrast and will help to make any surrounding greenery pop.

6. Make a garden gallery wall

Elevate planting to the next level by creating an outdoor gallery wall on an empty expanse of brickwork or section of fence panelling. Picture gallery walls are a big trend in interiors right now, so why not follow the same principle and swap pictures and prints for plants?

A garden gallery wall makes a brilliant backdrop for an outdoor seating area. Create variety by using an assortment of different planters, from wall-hung troughs and wire baskets to old loaf tins or cans, arranged at staggered heights. Just drill holes in the bottom for drainage.

And if you have a couple of old picture frames to hand, why not remove the glass and paint a few up, then include them as part of the display by framing a selection of spiky succulents or mini ferns?

7. Create a botanical haven with a living wall

While walls and fences in-between properties are necessary to create privacy, if there’s a lack of greenery the space can sometimes feel quite sparse and empty. Adding a living wall of vertical greenery is a brilliant way of bringing colour to a patio and can help to merge the divide between indoors and out.

A vertical wall planting system like this Self Watering Wall Planting Pot from Amazon makes planting a doddle. A simple framework of battens is attached to the wall as a starting point, with individual plastic planters that clip onto the frame arranged in staggered rows. Watering is provided by a reservoir system, with different plants simply popped into each planter to build up a lush and vibrant planting scheme.

8. Perk up a plain wall with jolly DIY planters

Step up clever upcycling garden ideas to add unique personality to an outdoor wall in a covered patio or courtyard.

Repurpose a couple of old straw hats that are out of shape and no longer worn. Simply cut a hole in the top of the hat (the part that sits on the head) so that you can slip a small plant pot inside. Use garden twine and a nail to secure the hat planter to the wall and then pop a potted plant in, arranging the foliage to cover up the hole. This is a great budget garden idea if you want to keep costs down.

9. Hang an outdoor mirror

Brighten up a bare wall by adding with garden mirror ideas by nestling a mirror in amongst the surrounding foliage. Hanging a mirror is a clever visual trick that can help to make a short garden feel a bit longer.

Position your mirror strategically, so that it reflects foliage rather than brickwork or unsightly drain pipes, and it will help create the illusion that the garden stretches further than it actually does.

Take care not to position outdoor mirrors in direct sunlight or where they might reflect strong sunlight for long periods, as this could cause a hazard. And don’t position mirrors too high where they could impact bird flight paths.

10. Make your potting bench a focal point

Instead of making function its sole purpose, treat a potting bench or outdoor table as an opportunity for a garden display space. Outdoor planting arrangements often lack height, so a bench is a brilliant way of elevating a display and filling wall space.

Get creative with a few taller items or hanging ornaments in your arrangement and include decorative planters, watering cans and general garden bric-a-brac. Positioning a mirror as a backdrop for a display will reflect the items outwards and make the display feel busier and brighter.

11. Paint a wall black to add drama

Dark walls are a fabulous way of creating areas of contrast in a garden. Make a statement by painting an outdoor wall or fence panel in a dramatic shade of black, dark grey or navy. Painting walls or fences a dark colour will make them recede into the background and make the space feel bigger, which is a clever trick to use in small gardens and compact patios.

Flowers and greenery will stand out more against a dark backdrop, making them look and feel more lush and vibrant.

12. Set up an outdoor shelf display

Create an outdoor living area in a sheltered spot outdoors, with a sociable arrangement of seating and occasional furniture to give the space a relaxed, homely feel.

Brighten up an empty wall area by fixing up a long run of shelving that spans the space. Line shelves with a mix of outdoor planters, vases, greenery and garden ornaments arranged in mini groupings along the shelves. Choose colours that complement outdoor rugs and cushions, for a relaxed, co-ordinated look.

'Well-placed furniture is a perfect way to hide an unattractive wall,' says Caron Grant, brand manager at Bridgman. 'By opting for a large modular rattan set, you can help to obscure the wall whilst creating a comfortable and attractive seating area for hosting guests.'

13. Have fun with a colourful wall mural

Go all-out with colour and create a sunny mural as the focal point for an outdoor seating area. Go bold and use hot pinks and oranges for a tropical vibe or opt for soft and soothing greens and blues if you prefer a more restful scheme.

Paint the wall in your background colour first, using masonry paint for a longer-lasting finish. To create a semi-circle, you’ll need a pencil attached to the end of a length of string. Decide on the overall width of your circle and mark the two outer points with the pencil. Then pin the string at a mid-point between the two, holding it taught so that the pencil touches one point and then pencil up and around to create your semi-circle.

'A dash of creative inspiration can bring a disused wall to life with a simple mural design in a complementary palette,' says Becky from Protek. 'Being brave is the key, as it can all easily be changed in years to come with a further lick of paint and a very little effort.'

14. Pretty-up an outdoor space with wall art

For a super-easy way of brightening up a dreary outdoor space, consider buying off-the-peg artwork. Metal plaques, oversized wall clocks, mirrors and outdoor signs make a lovely addition to an exterior wall or fence panel, either alone or in a group arrangement. Outdoor artwork will often have a pre-rusted finish that gives an aged, vintage vibe or come pre-coated to give a weather-resistant finish that can withstand the outdoor elements.

15. Make a mini wall display

Bring a small outdoor space to life with a mini display of greenery. Perfect for outdoor wall space beside the back door, use planters to grow herbs so they are conveniently located and easy to grab when you’re cooking.

Use kitchen utensil rails to create this set-up, with mini hook-on planters to hold greenery. Just position one rail above the other to fill the available space. Ikea’s Hultarp utensil range can be used to create a similar effect to this one.

FAQs

How can I decorate my outside wall?

Aside from transforming outdoor walls with a fresh coat of paint, adding shelves, artwork, trellis or wall-hung planters are all easy ways of brightening up dreary wall space.

Lighter-weight items can be fixed onto a brick wall using brick clips, which simply grip onto the mortar without the need for any drilling. For heavier items, it’s essential to use the correct fixing or bracket for the weight of the item being hung using a masonry drill and fixings. If in doubt, it’s always wise to call in a professional to do the work.

How do you dress up a bare exterior wall?

When it comes to dressing up an outdoor wall, the easiest option is probably paint. It’s essential to use masonry paints rather than standard emulsion, as these are weatherproof and designed to adhere to coarse and difficult surfaces, as well as protect exterior masonry work.

Or, you could level up with cladding.

'I find that outdoor wall cladding tiles are one of the best options for making a bare wall look more interesting,' says Andy from Posh.co.uk. 'It has a very natural look, especially if you go for stone tiles, and it also brings a nice combination of texture and colour to the space.'

Which outdoor wall decor ideas will you be trying?

Insulating our homes is so important for where it comes to keeping your home warmer, as well as helping to lower energy bills and improve sustainability credentials. But what external wall insulation problems might you face to achieve these?

While most external wall insulation (EWI) installations go without a hitch and problems are rare, there are some elements to retrofitting EWI that could cause complications. so what can go wrong? We outline the possible external wall insulation problems to be aware of.

External wall insulation problems

‘If you put EWI on the outside of a house then you will be getting a thermal upgrade, but remember that these buildings were not originally designed to have it,’ says Will Kirkman, Managing Director at Ecomerchant. The secret to making sure your existing property will cope with retrofitted EWI comes down to thorough research alongside an experienced and proven installer.

Here are five external wall insulation problems to avoid so you can ensure success.

1. Moisture build-up inside the house

Traditionally built properties were designed to breathe in a way that allowed water vapour to escape through the walls. Wrapping this kind of house with insulation will cut down draughts, which should be a positive thing. But one of the external wall insulation problems is that if it’s done poorly, this could also reduce ventilation and air movement, and may even form a barrier that locks moisture in the living spaces. The long-term result: damp and mould.

‘Before you make any changes to a property, you need to understand the balance of how you use and heat it, and how that will change once you’ve adding insulation. Things can get worse if a house is shifted out of balance,’ says Will Kirkman at Ecomerchant.

It might be that additional ventilation needs to be added to the house to help keep things in balance. Using vapour-open insulation materials that preserve the breathability of the building fabric is a great solution – namely natural products such as wood fibre. ‘Vapour open before must be vapour open after,’ says Will. An expert with a proven track record of working with your building type will be able to advise on the best solution for your unique home. 

Picking up the best dehumidifier for your space will also help to keep the damp at bay. 

2. The wrong wall finish

Following on from the above point, if you’re upgrading an older property with EWI, then it’s not just the insulation that needs to stay vapour-open. There’s no point investing in wood fibre and then covering it over with an inappropriate material like conventional sand-and-cement render. Lime render is a breathable option that could suit this kind of external wall insulation project. Remember: every layer added to the wall should complement the others.

Sometimes modern insulation products and external finishes can be the right solution, even for heritage walls. But this needs extremely careful design by an experienced specialist, as it might involve changing the wall from a breathable wall to a non-permeable wall. Consider cavity wall insulation to provide the best insulation for your home.

3. Planning permission challenges for EWI

Even though adding external wall insulation to a house involves making changes to the external appearance of the building, it does generally fall within permitted development (PD). This means you don’t always need to apply for formal planning permission to add EWI to your house. However, PD rules are not applicable for every home. For instance, they don’t apply in locations where there are planning restrictions, such as conservation areas or listed buildings. 

EWI is generally installed to improve energy performance in solid wall homes, which are more common in traditionally-built, pre-1920 houses. This kind of property may have heritage value, so the local planners might not be keen for you to change their appearance. 

The best thing to do to avoid this kind of external wall insulation problems is simply to check that it is even allowed . Going ahead without such confirmation could result in costly fines or even a removal order. Pre-application advice is one option; or you can apply for a lawful development certificate. If it turns out that you can’t install EWI, then internal insulation could be your best bet.

4. Difficulty insulating around windows and doors

The frames and reveals at window and doors can create external wall insulation problems. Leave them uninsulated, and you’ll be creating cold bridges. As the name suggests, these provide a pathway for useful warmth inside the home to escape across the insulated envelope. This can drastically reduce your newly insulated home’s energy efficiency.

Gaps in insulation will also lead to drastic temperature differentials, which can cause condensation to form where warm internal air hits the cold section of wall – ultimately leading to damp and mould issues.

The problem is that window and door frames in traditional homes can be quite narrow. This makes it difficult to treat the reveals (the recessed side walls that join a window/door to the main facade) with standard external wall insulation.

You could switch to super-thin insulation for your property’s window and door reveals, which can achieve the desired performance in profiles as slim as 10mm. The right solution for your home will be decided during the pre-installation survey.

5. Installation mistakes

All the above underline the importance of employing an experienced company to design and install the right external wall insulation for your property. 

There are lots of avoidable external wall insulation problems that you could face if you use an inexperienced installer. Such as incorrect fixings used to hold the insulation in place, issues around the depth of roof overhangs and more. Remember that your property is unique and needs a thorough assessment before any work is done. This will ensure your external wall insulation works as it should and you can reap the benefits of a cosy, efficient home. 

‘Issues with retrofit insulation are extremely uncommon and installers approved by industry bodies have to install approved systems to industry technical best practice in order to be issued with a guarantee, which will protect the homeowner,’ says Nigel Donohue, CEO, Insulation Assurance Authority. The IAA has a list of regional approved installers on its website.

Adding external wall insulation to the outside of your house is an efficient way to reduce the amount of heating needed to keep your rooms warm and comfortable. But how much does external wall insulation cost to get installed and what can you expect to save in utility bills?

External wall insulation is generally more expensive than cavity wall insulation and internal insulation. Nevertheless, if a qualified and vetted installer has surveyed your property and said it’s the best option, then it’s a great way to improve your home’s thermal performance. Here’s some guidance on what you need to budget for and why quotes might vary.

How much does external wall insulation cost?

‘Look to budget around £7,000-£15,000 for your external wall insulation cost,’ says Nigel Donohue, CEO at Insulation Assurance Authority. That’s a wide margin to go by, but costs range massively as each installation is unique.

Stats from the Energy Saving Trust (EST) correlate with this: it says the typical installation cost of external wall insulation on a three-bedroom semi-detached home is around £10,000. 

When it comes to energy bill savings, the EST says fitting EWI could save you £255 a year (based on fuel prices as of November 2021). With household bills set to skyrocket, the cost of future utilities is unpredictable. You can be sure, however, that having external wall insulation will keep bills lower than leaving your walls uninsulated. 

Remember that project costs will vary depending on the bespoke requirements of your house. The cost of the insulation itself isn’t the only thing to budget for, so find out what is included in any quotes to make sure you can compare like for like. 

Here are the main factors that will impact on your total EWI project cost: 

• Survey to assess what kind of insulation and finish is best for your home and any work needed prior to installation
• Possible removal/replacement of elements on your home, such as pipes, guttering roof overhangs etc
• Scaffolding for installation
• Insulation type, wall ties & fixings
• Wall finish, such as render, brick slips etc
• Any new ventilation and the best dehumidifiers needed to maintain a healthy balance of moisture inside your home

1. How much does rigid board external wall insulation cost?

Rigid board insulation is typically a vapour-closed option, such as EPS, PUR or PIR. Supply-only, EPS boards generally cost around £9 per m2.

‘A full installation using 90mm-thick EPS on average costs £130 per m2, including all enabling work extending pipes and electrics, scaffolding, a 25-year guarantee, and a silicone rendered finish,’ says Danielle Belton, Director at Saving Energy UK. On a 100m2 property, that would come in at £13,000.

2. How much does mineral wool external wall insulation cost?

This is made of similar materials to the insulation rolls you see in lofts, but compressed to become rigid. Mineral wool EWI is generally more expensive than EPS – Danielle from Saving Energy UK quoted £140 per m2 for all works, including a silicone render. That comes in at a total cost of £14,000 on our hypothetical 100m2 home.

3. How much does wood fibre external wall insulation cost?

Supply-only wood fibre render-carrying insulation boards cost around £19 per m2, which is twice the price of standard EPS. Installation needs to be done by people trained in using this system. So, you can expect to pay a little more overall, but you get the benefit of using natural, breathable and sustainable materials.

How much does it cost to remove external wall insulation?

If external wall insulation is fitted by a qualified professional like that has used the correct materials for your home, then you are unlikely to face issues with your EWI installation.

‘It’s very unusual to have to factor in external wall insulation cost for removal, as it's rare to need it, but cost could vary wildly depending on the type of system and what’s wrong with it,’ says Danielle from Saving Energy UK. ‘The only time I have ever known it to be removed is as a result of poor workmanship and the install not being completed properly. This is why it’s important to choose a qualified installer that offers an independent 25-year guarantee, such as from SWIGA or the IAA.’

Is external wall insulation value for money?

One of the external wall insulation problems is that it is an expensive project and the likelihood is that it’ll take many years of fuel saving to get back your investment – if at all. Based on the EST’s figures, at bill savings of £255 it would take 39 years to recoup a typical £10,000 installation.

A survey by the government in 2018, based on a small number of properties with retrofitted external wall insulation, saw property values increase by an average of 3%*. So, the money you’ve spent could make a difference to your home’s market price, but this isn’t guaranteed.

It’s more likely that other improvements alongside the insulation project will increase the property value, such as changing windows, adding extensions etc.  Doing other work at the same time will offer better value for money, for instance, roof upgrades alongside mean you’ll only need to pay for scaffolding once.

Is money your only motivator? Upgrading your home’s efficiency, especially when using natural materials, will drastically improve your property’s carbon footprint. So, if sustainability is at the heart of your renovation then you might see external wall insulation as good value for money.

You’ll get the best result in terms of energy savings if upgrading the efficiency of your walls is part of a wider plan to improve your home’s the thermal performance. For instance, EWI might be stage one, with plans to add roof insulation and install renewable tech to run your central heating in the future. 

One of three potential ways to insulate the walls of your home is external wall insulation, with the other options being cavity wall and internal insulation. The right solution for you will be determined by the makeup of your property and its location – an experienced and approved installer will be able to survey your home and decide which is best.

Adding external wall insulation (EWI) to your house is an effective way to save energy by reducing the amount needed to heat your home, saving you money on energy bills as well as lowering your carbon footprint.

‘The best way to make your home more energy efficient is to improve the fabric of the house, such as the walls,’ says Simon Storer, Chief Executive at the Insulation Manufacturers Association. ‘Make insulation as good as it can be to the get the best from the structure.’

External wall insulation is the go-to option to upgrade the thermal efficiency of homes with solid walls, made using a single layer of bricks. Most UK houses built before 1920 have solid walls and EWI is a great option if there are no planning restrictions on the property, such as listed building or conservation area status.

According to government research, by the end of December 2020 91% of solid wall homes still hadn’t been insulated*. so if you own one, here’s what you need to know to benefit from the energy and money savings external wall insulation can offer.

What are the benefits of external wall insulation?

 Uninsulated walls allow around a third of the warmth pumped into a house to leak out (according to the Energy Saving Trust**). Making your central heating system work harder to maintain a comfortable temperature. External and cavity wall insulation will help to keep heating costs low because your boiler won’t need as much energy to keep a cosy environment.
Adding effective insulation means you’ll not only be spending less on heating bills, but you’ll also be using less fossil fuel. So external wall insulation can help to improve the sustainability credentials of your home. If you then install renewable tech to run your central heating, you’ll benefit from an even more environmentally friendly property.

Installing EWI doesn’t disrupt things inside your property in the way that internal insulation would, so you can easily live in the house during the work. It can also help to improve weatherproofing and sound resistance.

Adding external wall insulation is a good opportunity to update the appearance of your home. You could make it look pretty much identical to how it was previously or make some improvements to boost your house’s kerb appeal, possibly even increasing its value.

What types of external wall insulation are there?

Some external wall insulation products are vapour closed, meaning they do not absorb water and don’t easily allow the passage of water vapour. Other types of EWI are vapour open or breathable, so the material can absorb and quickly release moisture, allowing vapour to move through the walls, therefore maintaining a dry structure.

Being vapour open isn’t the same as being leaky, so you won’t be compromising on thermal and energy performance. Older solid wall homes were built to be vapour open and continuing this concept will help to maintain the moisture balance of the property.

Wood fibre is an excellent breathable option for external wall insulation on one-off projects. ‘Make sure you use a vapour open finish, too, such as a lime based render,’ says Will Kirkman, Managing Director at Ecomerchant. Mineral wool insulation is also breathable and non-combustible, but acts slightly differently to wood fibre and can’t be directly rendered.

Vapour closed (synthetic) external wall insulation options are generally known as rigid board insulation. They include PIR, PUR and EPS products. ‘A potential problem with synthetic materials on old houses is that the installation has to be so much more precise and durable – so make sure you’ve got a good installer and guarantee. Damaging the structure of your house can be extremely expensive to fix,’ says Will Kirkman.

While synthetic external wall insulation can go right down to ground level, for maximum coverage, wood fibre requires a plinth up to damp proof course (DPC) level.

Who supplies external wall insulation?

External wall insulation is generally provided on a supply-and-install basis. It should never be attempted DIY. having it installed without a full pre-assessment by an unqualified trade could have disastrous consequences.

Look for an installer that is registered with an appropriate association, such as the Insulation Assurance Authority. You’ll want a specialist that offers a 25-year guarantee, such as from the Solid Wall Insulation Guarantee Agency (SWIGA). These associations provide lists of approved regional installers on their websites, so that’s a great place to start your search.

A survey will need to be done before work can begin to assess which insulation type is best and whether any other alterations will be needed, such as adding extra ventilation.

‘We strongly recommend that before fitting any external wall insulation, your home is first assessed under the Retrofit Framework laid out in PAS 2035: 2019,’ says Matthew Evans at Kingspan Insulation. ‘This sets a clear process for assessing existing properties, identifying issues, and setting a clear improvement plan for raising the energy efficiency of your home. All TrustMark registered installers are required to follow this process on any work they carry out.’

Tips for installing external wall insulation

Get the most out of your external wall insulation by following our tips...

1. Work out your wall type

While external wall insulation can be suitable for a range of properties, it’s most commonly applied to homes with solid brick walls. It can be tricky to tell the makeup of your home’s walls, but there are some clues to look for. 

Alternating brick patterns, with a makeup of exposed narrow and long ends, tend to be solid walls. The width of brick walls and the age of the house will also give indications.

2. Find an installer

Make sure your installer has good accreditations and can offer you real life examples of their work. If possible, chat to other homeowners who have used them to make sure they’re happy with the work and aftercare. Shop around for quotes of the external wall insulation cost and ask what kind of external finishes installers offer.

3. Have a survey

Your qualified installer will assess your walls to identify what insulation is best. They may identify some structural issues that must be resolved before the insulation is fitted. They will also let you know about small jobs that need sorting prior to work starting on site, such as removal of hanging baskets, readjustment of satellite dishes etc.

4. Get your external wall insulation installed

As the insulation is being applied to the outside of your home, you don’t need to move out while work is being carried out. Scaffolding will be erected and you can expect some noise while walls are being prepared and the insulation is fixed. Disruption should be minimal but install dehumidifiers where necessary.

5. Render or cladding applied

Your external wall insulation will be finished with either render or an exterior cladding system, such as brick slips to retain the masonry look. Installing EWI, including insulation and finish, typically takes around three to six weeks.

What maintenance is required for external wall insulation?

External wall insulation is an invisible part of your home that you won’t be able to see once in place. While it’s mostly a fit-and-forget solution, there are some things you can do to make sure that your EWI doesn’t lose its efficiency.

Good general property maintenance is important. Make sure that any external wall insulation problems you notice, such as cracks in the render, broken seals around windows or leaking guttering, are resolved quickly. This will protect the insulation against water ingress and preserve its performance.

Check the details of your guarantee, as changes to your newly-insulated external walls, such as painting render, fixing hanging baskets etc, could require careful consideration.

*Household Energy Efficiency Great Britain Data (gov.uk, 18th March 2021)

Packing your cavity walls with insulation will help to create a cosy living space at the same time as lowering your heating bills. The question is how much does cavity wall insulation cost to install?

The typical cavity wall insulation (CWI) installation cost for a detached house is £610. Homeowners can then access savings of £310 a year on their utility bills (based on fuel prices in November 2021, according to the Energy Saving Trust). This means a payback time of just two years. However, prices have risen sharply in recent times and our research suggests you should budget more for CWI installation.

With energy prices going up, it’s tricky to predict exactly how much you’ll save going forward. There's no doubt that homes with CWI will certainly see lower bills than without, so it’s actually a good time to invest.

How much does cavity wall insulation cost?

'Cavity wall insulation is a good place to start to mitigate rising fuel costs and it is far cheaper than external and internal wall insulation,' says Nigel Donohue, CEO at the Insulation Assurance Authority. 'Look to budget £1,200-£1,500 for cavity wall insulation costs. You’ll get the best benefits if it’s part of a longer-term plan for other upgrades that will help your home’s energy efficiency.'

The prices mentioned in this cavity wall insulation cost article are indicative averages collated from costs supplied by a range of Trustmark and Insulation Assurance Authority (IAA) member CWI installers, including EDF Energy, Evolve Home Energy Solutions, Envo Energy Solutions and InstaGroup. Be aware that prices fluctuate and some building materials have experienced supply shortages and cost hikes.

Here are the types of cavity wall insulation and the amount you can expect to spend getting them fitted.

1. How much does polystyrene bead insulation cost?

Polystyrene (EPS) bead cavity wall insulation involves a registered installer blowing small insulating balls into the wall through holes drilled in the outside of your home (which are later sealed up). The specially-coated beads spread out into the cavity and bond together to make a high performing and moisture-resistant insulant that doesn’t require future maintenance.

Average cavity wall insulation cost: £11.50 per m2
Total cost based on 155m2 detached house: £1,782.50

2. How much does mineral wool cost?

Blown mineral fibre cavity wall insulation is made from spun glass or wool. It’s fitted in a similar way to EPS beads, by being blown into the cavity space via small holes in the exterior wall. Well-installed mineral fibre CWI is an effective and maintenance-free insulant that should remain so for the lifespan of the building. The average quotes we received for mineral wool and EPS beads were very similar.

Average cavity wall insulation cost: £10.75 per m2
Total cost based on 155m2 detached house: £1,666.25

3. How much does expanding foam cost?

Polyurethane (PU) foam is injected into the wall cavity, where it solidifies into an excellent insulator. The robust makeup of this insulation can even help to strengthen the walls. It’s a more specialist product with a higher price tag, so isn’t as widely used as the other types. But it can be a great solution for more complicated projects, such as in walls with corroded wall ties or on properties positioned in flood risk zones.

Average cavity wall insulation cost: £28 per m2
Total cost based on 155m2 detached house: £4,340

Other cavity wall insulation costs to factor in

• The cavity wall insulation cost is priced per m2, so obviously house size will impact on how much you should budget to retrofit CWI.
• Property type will make a difference, too – for instance, a mid-terrace house has fewer outside walls than an end-terrace, and a bungalow only has one storey to insulate. Ease of access and location are other factors that can impact on costs.
• Factor in the surveys as part of cavity wall insulation cost – often part of the installers fee, but always check.
• Any repairs needed to make sure your property is in a good state for the insulation to be fitted. This can include cracks in bricks or mortar, leaky guttering, broken wall ties and more.
• Having the cavity cleaned before insulation is packed in, for instance if there is debris in the gap that needs to be extracted.
• Whole house heat loss survey and the costs of future upgrades in your long-term efficiency plan (roof insulation, loft insulation, windows, doors, draught proofing etc).

Some people are eligible for homeowner's grants towards cavity wall insulation cost under the Energy Obligation Scheme (ECO), for instance if you receive certain benefits.

How much does it cost to remove cavity wall insulation?

Cavity wall insulation problems are rare, especially if you’ve used a reputable installer. There are some circumstances where it might need to be extracted. If you do need to have insulation removed, then it’s generally a fairly simple job using a high pressure vacuum to suck it out of the cavity wall. You can expect to pay circa £13-£20 per m2 for CWI extraction.

You’re more likely to need to replace cavity wall insulation if it’s been fitted by a rogue installer. Cowboy trades may select unsuitable insulation for the property or not do the job to the high standards expected from good installers registered with professional bodies, such as CIGA. If care hasn’t been taken with the installation, gaps could form and cause cold spots, or moisture could bridge the cavity, leading to damp issues inside the home.

'Make sure walls are of a good standard before cavity wall insulation cost is agreed and then fitted,' says Ed Andrews, Commercial Director at InstaGroup. 'If any work is needed we would do it for them or bring in a trade. Although this will cost more. Some installers aren’t as careful so might go ahead with filling a cavity where there are already issues with damp.'

Properly fitted insulation generally requires no maintenance once installed, but if water channels into the cavity, it can impact on the performance of insulation. Problems with damp and mould can take hold in these instances. So it’s important to keep an eye on any early signs of cracks in render, broken mortar, leaky guttering etc on your home.

In a worst-case scenario, the insulation might need to be extracted and reinstalled. Prompt action on any damage will save you from future issues with your cavity wall insulation.

In the past, urea formaldehyde foam was sometimes used for cavity wall insulation, which can pose health risks to occupants. Removing this is a complicated task as it must be broken down inside the cavity and carefully vacuumed out. It’s important that the dust doesn’t get into the home and you might need to vacate your property while it’s happening.

Should you claim compensation for cavity wall insulation?

In recent years, there has been a spate of spurious approaches by claims management companies, telling homeowners who’ve had cavity wall insulation retrofitted that they may be able to get compensation for incorrect installations on their behalf.

If you are contacted out of the blue regarding potential problems with your cavity wall insulation, then be wary. The Government has warned that some of these cold call approaches are not genuine.

Always do your research first and do not sign up to any agreements, provide bank details or hand over any money if you are not confident that you are dealing with a genuine company. Remember, if you suspect an issue with your cavity wall insulation, then the best first port of call is always your installer or your insulation guarantee provider.

Cavity wall insulation (CWI) is a great option to make your home more efficient and save on energy bills. Most installations go without a hitch, leaving homeowners to enjoy the benefits of a warmer, more comfortable living environment. Cavity wall insulation problems do crop up so we're here to tell you why.

'We’ve issued 6.2 million guarantees for cavity wall insulation, and have a claims rate of just 0.43%,' reassures Nigel Donohue, CEO at the Insulation Assurance Authority.

Occasionally, however, things can go wrong. Most cavity wall insulation problems are the result of installation and maintenance issues, which can be easily avoided through reliable pre-installation assessments and good installation practice.

What are the most common cavity wall insulation problems?

Here are some cavity wall insulation problems and what to do if you face them.

1. Damp and mould cavity wall insulation problems

Properly installed, insulation can reduce issues with damp and mould and make your home a more comfortable place. You might have cavity wall insulation problems occurring if the work is poorly done or the house is unsuitable.

Damp and mould are usually easy to spot. Often the issue stems from poor walls not being repaired prior to fitting cavity wall insulation. Cracks in the brickwork or render, crumbling mortar and leaky guttering can all allow water into the cavity. This will soak the insulation, meaning it won’t perform as it should, ultimately leading to issues.

A good company will complete a pre-installation survey and advise you on what needs to be done before CWI is fitted or inform you if cavity wall insulation isn’t suitable. Post-installation, good general property maintenance, such as repointing mortar joints and regularly checking guttering, will help to avoid future problems. Ventilation is also important for preventing damp and mould. Look into the best dehumidifiers to help, too

2. Inadequate ventilation

Good airflow is vital inside your home, to ensure it stays fresh and free from issues such as mould. When you insulate a house, you will be making it more airtight, so installers must ensure existing airflow is maintained and additional ventilation fitted where necessary.

'We install ventilation as standard as part of a CWI job,' says Ed Andrews, Commercial Director at InstaGroup. 'But homeowners need to be aware of what they can do to reduce the risk of damp issues, such as opening windows and using extractor fans.'

The cavity wall insulation problems related to ventilation problems can be exacerbated if it is poorly installed or slumps over time. As well as causing cold spots, this could also block vents, so proper specification and installation are key.

3. Poorly-filled cavity wall insulation

When retrofitting insulation, obstructions within the cavity, such as pieces of mortar, can snag materials such as mineral wool. If a cavity is too thin, the insulation may also not spread as expected.

Using the right type of insulation for your house is the first step to avoiding this. Good installation is essential, too. A cowboy installer might not pay due care and attention to ensuring the whole wall is properly treated.

As the cavity is hidden, there’s no easy way to spot these kinds of issue. Sometimes you’ll detect cold spots, but you might not get wind of a problem until you’ve had several months’ of utility bills. The thing to look for is whether your energy usage (rather than the price, which can fluctuate) hasn’t come down as much as expected compared to the previous year.

4. Unsightly retrofit installations

CWI is installed by drilling holes in the exterior wall and blowing or injecting the insulation into the cavity. Good contractors will do a decent job of patching these up, and the holes do tend to fade with age; but poor cover-ups can be unattractive. 

As well as speaking to your installer about how they’ll hide their work, do your research and ask former clients if they’re happy with the insulation performance, the finished appearance and aftersales care.

Who should I contact about cavity wall insulation problems?

Speak to the original company who provided your cavity wall insulation cost and installation and ask them to assess the issues and carry out any remedial work. If they are unwilling to provide support, or have gone out of business, then your next option is to contact your guarantee or warranty provider. If all else fails, appoint your own surveyor to make an independent assessment.

Which homes are inappropriate for cavity wall insulation?

Properties in exposed locations, subject to wind-driven rain or without a damp-proof course might not be suitable for cavity wall insulation. 'Some properties may also use particularly porous bricks in the external construction or feature a very narrow cavity, which is unsuitable for CWI,' says Matthew Evans, Head of Technical GB at Kingspan Insulation.

In the worst cases, unsuitable insulation may need to be removed – a process which can cost £1,000s. That's why  it’s important to use a registered installer whose work will be covered by a 25-year CIGA guarantee.

If there are obstructions inside the cavity, water can bridge across insulation. Snots (lumps) of mortar are the most common cause. This may mean it’s not possible to install CWI, so another solution (such as external wall insulation) may be your best bet for upgrading energy efficiency.

Whether a house is appropriate for cavity wall insulation or not should be determined by a pre-installation assessment from a reputable company. This should include inspecting the cavity using a probe camera.

If you want to boost your home's eco credentials and increase the biodiversity of your garden, then a green roof could be a good choice.

Whether you are planning on a replacing your roof, or looking for solutions to top off an extension, green roofs offer a set of appealing advantages. But they also have drawbacks and complexities that should be carefully considered before you get your heart set on one.

To help, I spoke to green roof experts to find out what all homeowners should know before opting for a roof like this.

What actually is a green roof?

Also known as a living or sedum roof, a green roof is a roofing system that is partially or completely covered with plants.

Not only can this offer improved insulation to help regulate the temperature in the space below, but it can also help with sound control too. They layered construction of a green roof system can absorb, reflect or deflect sound waves, contributing to a tranquil space below.

In addition, green roofs can also encourage biodiversity and provide a suitable habitat for wildlife, especially in urban areas.

What kind of green roofs can you get?

Your choice will determine the type and mix of plants you choose, and what kind of drainage system will be required. There are three main types to choose from.

• Extensive green roof: generally a shallow layer of stress-tolerant grasses, mosses and sedum; these lightweight solutions require little maintenance and are nearly self-sufficient. Sedum is a popular choice for an extensive green roof.
• Semi-extensive green roof: slightly deeper and therefore heavier, but similar to extensive green roofs; these require a little more maintenance, but you can usually have more of a choice as to what you can plant.
• Intensive green roof: a thick and heavy layer of soil with a variety of grasses, herbs, flowers and shrubs; these require a lot of care and their weight makes them an unlikely choice for homes.
• Brown roof: a super eco-friendly option that uses a thin layer of recycled or biodegradable materials. Unlike green roofs that are intentionally planted, a brown roof is left to self vegetate over time via local wildlife or the wind.

How are green roofs installed?

Green roofs tend to be installed on flat or low pitched roofs (although it is possible to install them on a higher pitch) and each system is made up of multiple layers, including:

• waterproofing membrane
• root barrier
• moisture retention fleece
• drainage membrane
• filter layer
• Guttering and a downpipe or rain chain will help excess water drain away safely.

Gregg Setherton, Certified Surveyor in Sturctural Waterproofing and Technical Manager at Permagard adds, 'The green roof drainage layer is usually a HDPE membrane. These can feature cavities or cups that collect water. Water is retained in these little reservoirs until it is required when it is drawn back up by the vegetation.'

'Any excess water such as from heavy rain, passes through perforations in the HDPE membrane. The water then travels through to a drainage space below where it can be safely evacuated via the drainage outlet.'

'This prevents too much water accumulating and potentially damaging the roots and causing harm to your green roof.'

On top of these layers, you'll need to use a lightweight substrate rather than regular garden soil (which will be too heavy) before you can plant your chosen vegetation.

How much does a green roof cost?

'Green roof costs can vary dramatically based on the type, size and construction method. As an approximate guide, you can have a fully functioning 20m2 extensive wildflower green roof for a total cost of between £600 - £1400,' says Gregg Setherton.

However, the cost of the green roof installation will depend on the contractor and the scope of the project. It's worth getting a few different quotes to compare prices before deciding on one. And do ask lots of questions around the design and how long it will take.

What kind of maintenance do green roofs need?

The maintenance needed for a green roof will depend on the type of system you have installed. Always check with your installer what kind of maintenance is required for your specific green roof, what you should be looking out for, and whether you can do it yourself or you need to call on a professional.

Even with low maintenance green roofs, regular visual inspections can help you identify any potential issues, such as excess debris, dead plants, or drainage issues, so you can get the resolved before they cause expensive damage.

By ensuring regular maintenance, you can also ensure you green roof lasts for as long as possible and performs its best.

Are green roofs a good idea?

Before you choose a green roof, you need to ensure you understand their pros and cons.

Advantages of a green roof

• Increases biodiversity. A green roof can provide a natural habitat for local wildlife, replacing the ecology that the property stands on.
• Offers additional insulation. Green roofs can also add a layer of insulation to your home, giving you extra warmth in the winter months. They provide sound insulation too, due to the combination of trapped air within the soil and plants absorbing the frequencies.
• Can help improve the lifespan of the roof. Tom Mckinna, designer at Resi says, 'Living roofs have shown to almost triple the life expectancy of the roofing below. This is thanks to the underlying structure being protected from mechanical damage, ultraviolet radiation, and extreme temperatures. You’ll also find those extra layers can help reduce noise pollution, as well as provide a higher level of fire resistance!'
• Maintenance can be minimal. This depends on the type of green roof you choose, but usually those suitable for domestic installations are low maintenance.
• Absorbs CO2 and heat from the sun. 'The added greenery helps remove dangerous CO2 from the atmosphere. It’s been estimated that a 1m2 green roof can take up to 5kg of emissions each year, which is the same amount as a regular car will emit during an 80km drive,' explains Tom Mckinna.
• They look great. Lee Evans, Founder of Organic Roofs promotes the aesthetic benefits of a green roof. 'Nothing expresses your principles quite like a green roof. Instead of an expanse of mineral felt, the view is one of native wildflowers, grasses and sedum and the bees, butterflies and birds that will make it home. Designing-in a green roof will transform the feel of your home and garden.'
• They don't need to be installed to the whole roof. They can also be installed on sheds, outbuildings or even bird boxes.

Disadvantages of a green roof

• More expensive to install than a traditional roof.
• Structural reinforcement may be needed to support the weight of a green roof, which can cause the higher installation costs.
• Needs more maintenance than a traditional roof. Even if the maintenance is relatively low, your green roof will likely require more involvement to keep it looking and performing its best.

How long will a green roof last?

If installed correctly and properly maintained, a green roof can last between 40 and 50 years. This is usually attributed to the layers of a green roof system that protect the underlying structure from degrading factors, such as extreme weather conditions and UV exposure.

Is a green roof suitable for my home?

Before you plan your green roof, make sure you talk to a specialist. As many roof structures haven’t been designed to bear a heavy load, it’s important to ask a structural engineer to design your green roof so load capacity is taken into consideration.

Charles Rothnie, Chartered Engineer at Perega explains: 'It's not as simple as swapping one roof for another. Green roofs are considerably heavier, ranging from 70-310kg/m², compared to a mere 10kg/m² for a standard flat roof.

'This increased weight necessitates a thorough structural engineer's inspection for existing buildings to ensure the roof, walls, and foundations can handle the load.

'New builds will also require stronger, more expensive structures, which can mean a higher upfront carbon footprint.'

Which plants work well on a green roof?

Choosing the right plants for your green roof can be tricky, but usually because there are so many options available to you.

Gregg Setherton says, 'You can plant a variety of plants on a green roof. Grasses, mosses and sedum are common for extensive green roofs. Certain types of wildflowers are a nice option for attracting wildlife.'

'Sedum green roofs are one the most popular options because this alpine plant can tolerate our varying weather conditions. You can also easily and cheaply pick up pre-grown sedum mats ready to install - providing low growing, instant greenery to whatever sized roof. You can also get other suitable pre-grown mats suitable for green roofs.'

If you have specific goals for your green roof, such as adopting a wildlife garden idea and providing a safe haven for bees, then planting flowering species is a good idea. Choosing plants native to the local area are also a sound choice.

The Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) has detailed more specific information on suitable plants for green roofs:

• Suitable plants for extensive green roofs: mat-forming species of Sedum, Sempervivum and moss. Ferns such as Polypodium vulgare and Asplenium trichomanes are suitable for dry shady conditions.

Lee Evans, founder of Organic Roofs adds, 'Succulents which grow in around 60mm of substrate (growing medium). Usually supplied in pre-grown rolls but also available in plugs, cuttings. Sedum roofs are good nectar sources during their flowering season but this tends to be quite short. Can be augmented with wildflowers.'

• Suitable plants for semi-extensive green roofs: dry habitat perennials and ornamental grasses such as:
  • Rudbeckia
  • Achillea
  • Potentilla
  • Armeria
  • Dianthus
  • Helictotrichon sempervirens
  • Stipa tenuissima

'Native UK wildflowers often make great green roof plants and are particularly good for providing food sources for invertebrates for longer periods of the year,' explains Lee.

'Flowering from March till November, these roofs require deeper substrate, which is undulated to encourage diversity. Usually tolerant of shade and longer dry periods, these plants will brown off in extended drought conditions but will revive again when the rains return.'

• Suitable plants for intensive green roofs: The RHS recommends drought tolerant plants that are both sun and wind tolerant.

FAQs

Can I install my own green roof?

It is possible to install a green roof yourself, but it's advisable to work with a professional to ensure it is done correctly. If you don't get the system's layers right, or you don't adequately calculate the structural load, then you could cause costly damage to the existing structure.

Even if you are installing a green roof on a flat surface, you are still working at height. So, if you do plan on doing it yourself, you'll need to make sure you can do so safely.

Do you need planning permission for a green roof?

In many cases you can install a green roof on your home or outbuildings without needing to apply for planning permission, but rules can differ depending on where you live and what your plans are so it's always best to check with your local planning authority before you start any work (or part with any cash).

To up the ante even further, adopting one of these small garden pond ideas could encourage even more wildlife into your outdoor space.

Ripping out a fireplace you don’t need can seriously boost the amount of usable space in your kitchen, and frees up the perfect spot for a lovely large range cooker, as well as extra cabinetry and storage for all your pots and pans.

Below we look at the process of removing a chimney from start to finish.

Chimney breast removal — how’s it done?

If you’re only taking out a ground floor fireplace, you'll need to insert a steel lintel to carry the weight of the chimney stack above. 'Some builders use steel gallows brackets, but not all Local Authorities permit them,' says Steve McSorley, Director of and structural engineering at Thomasons. A wood lintel can also be used, but nothing beats steel.

Can I remove the whole of the chimney?

Yes — doing this creates extra space in the bedrooms and loft, too. But, it does mean that every room affected will need to be redecorated, and there will be holes in the floors and ceilings. 'You need to prove, preferably via a structural engineers report, that the remaining walls are stable without the bracing support of a chimney breast,' adds Neil Tomlinson founder of Neil Tomlinson Architects.

Do you need planning permission to remove a chimney?

Not if you leave the chimney as it as at roof level, so the exterior of the house doesn't change. But if you live in a listed property, you will need listed building consent. 'You may need a Party Wall Agreement if it is on a party wall as the flues are often shared. Be aware that your neighbours don't have to agree,' says Steve.

Building regulations chimney removal – is approval needed?

Even if you're just removing the chimney breast on one level, it counts as structural work, so will need approval from your local building control office. It's wise to get a structural survey to calculate load-bearing requirements, and often you are required to do so.

What else do I need to consider when removing a chimney?

'If the chimney is only partly removed, then the blocked-up shaft must be properly ventilated to prevent damp problems occurring in the chimney stack,' says Neil. If the existing brickwork is really old, you also need to tread very carefully — ancient lime mortar can easily crumble and what started as small job, can quickly descend into chaos.

'Don't forget, if you take the whole chimney out, your home may look odd from the outside,' adds Neil.

It’s also worth getting the chimney swept first and ordering a skip in readiness. Also, warn your neighbours about noise. If there is, or was once, a gas or electric fire installed, the appliance and pipe work must be isolated and removed.

How much does it cost to remove a chimney?

Expect to pay £1,500-£2,500 for chimney breast removal, and £3,000-£4,000 for full chimney removal. As with all building projects it's always good to allow an extra 10 per cent or so over the quoted amount to allow for contingencies.

Is removing a chimney next on your home improvement list?