I limewashed my walls for the first time, and now I'm hooked – here’s 5 things I learnt from the process

I’ve been lusting after the look of limewashed walls for years. It’s one of those paint ideas that always stops me mid-scroll, I’m borderline obsessed with the soft, imperfect finish that feels cosy and lived-in. So, when my daughter asked for a bedroom makeover for her 12th birthday, I took the opportunity to finally have a go myself. Her north-facing, roughly 4m x 4m bedroom felt like a safe place to experiment – if it went wrong, at least it wasn’t the living room (or my own bedroom, hah!).

What I hadn’t fully clocked was just how different limewashing walls is compared to learning how to paint a room in the conventional sense. Prepping alone took far longer than I anticipated (not helped by attempting it during a hectic Twixmas period, so it would be finished for her early Jan birthday). I was nervous, second-guessed every decision, and there were moments when I was convinced I’d made a terrible mistake.

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But once I found my groove, I actually really enjoyed it. The results are far from perfect, but they’re not a total washout either and, most importantly, my daughter loves it. I’m absolutely going to be trying it again. I used Bauwerk’s limewash paint in Mykonos, along with the brand’s Prep Coat and brush, heavily influenced by Instagram accounts like @limewash.london and @nutsandwoods, who create the dreamiest spaces. Here’s what I learnt along the way.

1. Prep is everything

I learnt from regular painting just how important prep is, but limewashing walls requires an extra level of prep I wasn’t anticipating. Before I could even open the limewash, I had to strip wallpaper from two of the four walls, sand everything back and wipe the bare gypsum plaster walls down thoroughly to get rid of any adhesive. The two remaining walls had been painted in Farrow & Ball’s estate emulsion, so I just gave them a quick wipe down to remove any dust.

Following Bauwerk’s extensive instructions, I then applied two coats of primer all round, followed by one coat of Bauwerk’s Prep Coat. But it still looked really patchy, so I went for the second coat of Prep just to be super safe (so that’s four coats in total). It did start to feel a bit torturous, especially interspersed with all the festive family visits/entertaining, but I was determined to do everything by the book and knew rushing this part would have been a false economy.

‘The key is proper preparation – porous, mineral substrates allow the paint to carbonate and develop that beautiful, chalky depth. Over-sealing or applying it to shiny walls will flatten the effect and can compromise durability,’ explains interior designer Ali Childs, who is a huge fan of limewashing walls. If I did it again, I’d allocate a lot more time for prep and schedule it for a less busy period!

Ali Childs

Ali Childs is the founder and creative director of Studio Alexandra, an East London–based studio known for characterful, layered interiors. Founded in 2016, the practice spans residential and boutique hospitality projects, blending colour, texture and antiques with a thoughtful, research-led approach rooted in architectural context.

2. Limewash won’t hide uneven or damaged walls

One of the biggest myths about limewash is that it disguises imperfect surfaces. Because it’s often likened to polished plaster, I assumed it might blur or soften flaws. It doesn’t. Limewash is essentially a very wet paint, and whatever is going on underneath will show through.

One wall in the room had patches where the wallpaper had pulled off the plaster. I should really have had it re-skimmed, but I didn’t fancy the mess or trying to get someone in between Christmas and New Year. You don’t notice it unless you look closely, but it’s definitely there as a handy reminder that limewashing walls isn’t a magic fix for poor walls.

3. It’s extremely runny and needs constant re-mixing

Nothing quite prepares you for how liquid limewash is. This isn’t a dip-and-roll situation. The pigment settles incredibly quickly, so if you’re not constantly mixing, you’re basically brushing water onto the walls.

I decanted the paint into a larger bucket, so I had room to really whip it up properly, and did it every other time I dipped the brush in. A big whisk works far better than a stick, so I grabbed the metal whisk from the kitchen drawer (it came out sparkling after a stint in the dishwasher). If you’re dealing with a big room and thus more limewash paint, you should consider a stirrer drill attachment (like this one from Amazon). My right elbow was ouchy-sore the day after I finished limewashing walls!

4. Load the brush lightly

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Using too much paint on the brush is the fastest way to create drips, splashes and dark patches. ‘It’s important to use the right amount of paint on your brush, which should be neither overloaded nor too dry,’ advises Bauwerk’s technical limewash expert, Levi Gilbert. ‘Developing a feel for the appropriate amount of paint for the area being worked will help ensure a consistent, high-quality finish.’ I quickly learnt to shake excess paint off before touching the wall, not least because it’s pretty messy otherwise. I also started on the wall behind the bedroom door, so I could practice a bit before hitting more prominent walls.

The technique is to brush outwards, then criss-cross and gently smush the paint around. You don’t want strong contrasts, but you do want subtle definition between light and dark. Getting that balance right is tricky and takes practice.

I worked in ‘clouds’, following the videos I found online (there are loads), which is how you achieve that mottled finish. The second coat was much harder than the first because you can’t easily see where you’ve been. One key lesson: don’t stretch the brush too far when forming each cloud, or all the pigment gathers at the edges, leaving pale centres.

Also, brush marks look alarming when wet, but they soften as the wall dries – don’t panic. ‘Resist the temptation to overwork limewash. Apply it with a broad, loose brush and let the paint do its thing. The variation – lighter and darker patches – isn’t a flaw, it’s the end goal,’ says Ali Childs. Once I relaxed into it, I did start to feel like I was doing a fun craft project, which I have never experienced doing regular painting!

Levi Gilbert

Levi Gilbert is a technical limewash expert at Bauwerk. Based in Fremantle, Western Australia, he advises on the specification and application of mineral paints, drawing on deep knowledge of traditional limewash techniques and modern substrates to achieve durable, breathable finishes.

5. Trust the process

I ended up doing three coats because after two it genuinely looked like I’d just done a very bad paint job with standard emulsion! I was aiming for a richer, deeper finish to suit our Victorian house. In my opinion, really textural limewashing looks better in a more rustic, cottage-style setting than a home with sash windows and fancy architraves.

But there was a moment where I was convinced I’d made a terrible mistake with the third coat, and maybe I should have held my nerve. The first coat looked dreadful, which I was fully expecting, but the second wasn’t much better. I possibly didn’t leave the second coat long enough before starting the third – next time I’ll keep the faith and wait at least two hours (possibly overnight) to make sure it was really necessary. ‘You need to trust the process. Limewash may look uneven and patchy while drying. Allow it to fully cure between coats and after the final application, the finish softens and settles beautifully over time,’ advises Bauwerk’s Levi Gilbert.

It’s also worth noting that light plays a huge role, especially in a north-facing room. The texture on the walls in the room looks more obvious under electric lighting. ‘Because limewash reacts to light so dramatically, always test it in situ and observe it throughout the day. North-facing rooms will emphasise its softness, while strong sunlight can bring out movement and texture,’ explains Ali.

Once everything dried properly, I felt happier with the results. The colour deepened, the brush marks blurred, and the texture became slightly more evident, especially in the corners and edges of the walls.

Oh, and one last tip; don’t try to paint over any flaws once it’s dried. I tried to fix up a random dark mark I hadn’t spotted after the Prep Coat paint had dried, and it looked a hundred times worse. I’ve decided to hang a picture over it and move on with my life!

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