My guide to painting smarter – how I choose the right finish, plus my top tools and techniques for every room

Interior designer Natalie Jahangiry is one of Ideal Home's new Open House contributors, sharing her thoughts on decorating a home to suit a busy family life while sticking to your aesthetic values, too. See the rest of her articles here.

Being a keen DIYer and running an interiors company means I get asked for decorating tips all the time. And there’s no gatekeeping here… I’m always more than happy to share what I know and point friends and family in the right direction. So it felt only right to open up my little book of knowledge for you too, my wonderful column readers.

Now, I’m not a professional decorator (let’s be clear), and admittedly I've made lots of mistakes, but I have learnt a lot along the way. From trial and error to picking up tips from the actual pros I work with daily. Some lessons were learnt the hard way, so you don’t have to. Save this post for your next DIY project and thank me later.

1. Paint basics

Let’s start with the basics. Choosing paint isn’t just about colour. Yes, finding the right shade can feel like a total minefield, but once that decision’s made, the type of paint, finish, and how you apply it make a huge difference to how good the end result looks and ultimately how long it lasts. I’m here to help you get it right the first time, saving you time, money, and a lot of unnecessary stress. So let's dive in.

Emulsion paint

Emulsion paint is a water-based paint most commonly used on interior walls and ceilings. It’s easy to apply, dries quickly, and comes in a range of finishes from flat matt to soft sheen. Emulsion is ideal for creating a smooth, even surface.

There's many different brands that offer emulsion paint that is even washable, making them a better choice for areas such as hallways or living rooms.

As a personal favourite of ours, we often use Coat paints for our Design & Refine clients. Farrow & Ball are a common favourite also with their new Dead Flat formulation, which they say is highly durable and scuff resistant and washable. I personally also love the Graham & Brown paints, along with Edward Bulmer and Pickleson.

Acrylic/water-based paint

Acrylic / Water-based paint is a versatile, quick-drying paint ideal for interior woodwork, doors, skirting, and furniture. It provides a smooth, durable finish that resists cracking and yellowing over time. It's flexible and has a low odour so ideal for interior wood and MDF projects.

Primer

You also have primer, which isn't really a finish of paint, but is designed to create a smooth, stable surface for your topcoat. It helps the main paint adhere properly, prevents stains or tannins from bleeding through, and can seal porous surfaces like MDF, plaster, or bare wood.

Primers come in water-based varieties, which are fast-drying and low-odour, and oil-based options, which offer extra adhesion and stain-blocking for tricky surfaces. Using a primer ensures your final finish goes on evenly and lasts longer.

Personally, I love the BIN Primers. Although they are a bit pricey, a little goes a long way and they are worth it.

2. Sheen levels explained

Most modern paint companies now have handy little tools on their sites to tell you which sheen you should use for each area, but it can also be confusing while in the midst of decorating brain fog. So here's a short explanation for each finish.

• Matt: This has no shine and is often described as “flat”. When you choose matt paint, you get a flawless look and feel as it doesn’t reflect light therefore won’t highlight any imperfections. I personally love a matt finish.
• Eggshell: Is a soft finish with a very subtle sheen. This will show imperfections, but is harder wearing than matt.
• Satin: Has a noticeable, but refined sheen. It offers a smooth, soft look that's more durable and washable than matt, but less glossy than full gloss.
• Gloss: A high shine and very reflective paint. To be honest (don't hate me, anyone who loves it) but I really dislike gloss. It's hard to work with, it is… dare I say, old fashioned, and I think serves no purpose in a home. You know I'm not one to shy from an unpopular opinion so I’m speaking my truth.

3. The best paint by surface type

Walls and ceilings

Generally speaking, matt emulsion is the best for walls and ceilings in areas such as living rooms, dining rooms and bedrooms. You'll need fewer coats, however it's not as easy to clean as other finishes, so avoid areas that will get more wear and tear. A matt colour is also amazing for deeper tones as the colour is richer.

In high traffic areas, I would recommend using a more durable or washable emulsion. Rooms such as children's bedrooms, hallways or family spaces. It will stand the test of time longer than standard matt paint. Try Lick Supreme Ultra Flat Matt, Graham & Brown Resistance Ultra Durable Matt Emulsion, Intelligent Exterior Eggshell by Little Greene and Valspar Premium.

Bathrooms and kitchen walls require a soft sheen or silk finish. It's easy to clean, but also moisture resistant so won't go mouldy. These finishes have high durability, but the light does reflect more, so brush marks and imperfections will show up easier.

General woodwork

I generally suggest a low sheen paint on skirting boards, doors, door frames and trims such as eggshell. Water-based satin or acrylic trim paints can also be used on general woodwork.

Coat’s Eggshell range is a really great option and works well with scuffs and general wear and tear. With its slight sheen, eggshell paint reflects some light, unlike matt. As a comparison, Coat’s flat matt has a 2% sheen compared to its interior eggshell, which is 10%.

Now my business partner Jenna swears by this trick so you can thank her later. On stairs, staircases and banisters use floor paint – it’s hard wearing and can stand the test of time against the rough and tumble a staircase receives. Try the Mylands floor paint in particular.

Wardrobes, cabinets and furniture

When it comes to bespoke furniture built out of MDF, it requires a little extra care because MDF is very absorbent. Start with a good quality primer such as the Zinsser B-I-N Shellac-Based Primer and topcoat with an eggshell or satin finish paint. One of our go to carpentry companies always prefer using Tikkurila paints when painting MDF. Their Helmi range offers hard-wearing sheens from 10% to 80% depending on the level of glossy finish required.

In my experience, when painting IKEA furniture, (especially the slightly plasticity feeling ones all like a Billy Bookcase) it's best to roughly sand first, prime with Zinsser B-I-N, add a topcoat in sheen. However, unlike MDF, it's best to add a further coat of lacquer such as Rust-Oleum Clear Matt Furniture Lacquer, for extra durability. I'll be doing this when finishing my IKEA wardrobe doors… they really need that final coat to protect against general scuffs (aka the kids) before it’s too late!

4. Why tools matter

Using the right tools makes painting (and your life while painting!) so much easier and gives a better finish, so here’s a simple guide to choosing the right rollers and brushes.

Roller Guide

• Foam rollers are best used on smooth finishes like MDF and wood
• Short-pile rollers (5–8mm) are perfect for furniture and trims
• Medium-pile rollers (9–12mm) are the ones you may use the most, for standard walls
• Long-pile rollers (15mm+) are really only needed for rough or textured surfaces

Brushes

• Synthetic brushes are best for water-based paints such as emulsion, acrylic, and water-based wood paint. They hold their shape well, give a smooth finish, and don’t absorb water. They are also easy to clean.
• Natural bristle brushes (animal hair) hold more paint and are traditionally used with oil-based paints for a rich, smooth finish, but need careful cleaning and aftercare.
• Angled (cutting-in) brushes are simply brilliant!!! These brushes are designed for painting clean edges around ceilings, skirting boards, and woodwork with more precision. I love them.
• Flat brushes are ideal for doors, panels, and larger flat areas where even coverage is needed.
• Fine detail brushes are useful for touch-ups, trims, and intricate areas where accuracy matters.

5. My top tips

Preparation is key: The right prep can make or break the finish. I know… it's the most boring task, but it's pretty vital. Make sure surfaces are clean (especially kitchens and trims), fill any holes, and sand in advance. Mist coat new plaster and prime bare or unpainted surfaces for an even base.

Use thinner coats: Slightly watering down paint and applying thinner coats may sound counter-productive, but it actually makes paint easier to apply and helps achieve a smoother finish. I add a little water and mix well each time I pour into the tray.

Always use a long extension pole with your roller: Even when walls are reachable, a long pole reduces effort and covers surfaces more quickly and evenly. Use a “W” or “M” motion, let the roller’s weight do the work, and avoid pressing too hard. I know this sounds odd when you are close up to a wall, using a long pole, however I saw this technique on Instagram and tried it when decorating my home office and it was a revelation!

Cut in first, then roll: Cut in around edges, woodwork and ceilings with an angled brush, then roll while the edges are still wet. I find working one wall at a time helps avoid visible lines as paint dries.

Don’t overload the roller: A little paint goes a long way. Overloading can cause streaks and unwanted texture — let the paint level naturally.

Lightly sand between coats: It’s tempting to skip this step (believe me I have before!), but lightly sanding between coats really elevates the final finish and removes any bits or texture.

Protect floors easily: Another trending hack but it’s a goodie! The ‘Acetate sheet painting hack’ went viral with over 18.5 million views after @georginaraine_ took to Instagram with the ultimate trick. Slide a sheet of acetate under skirting boards to paint neatly while protecting hard floors… genius!

For crisp paint lines: Use quality painter’s tape, such as FrogTape Multi Surface (the green one), on a clean surface. Press and seal the edge firmly, paint in thin coats away from the tape, and remove it slowly at a 45° angle while the paint is still slightly wet (yes you saw that right, still wet). Despite common belief, leaving tape on until the paint dries can cause peeling. For an alternative approach, decorators often use a thin line of caulk along the edge of the tape, painting over it with the wall paint once dry, for an ultra-sharp finish.

Final Thoughts

A great paint finish isn’t just about colours, it’s about matching the paint, sheen, tools, and technique to the room and surface. Taking time to prepare properly and choosing the suitable materials will give you a longer-lasting, more professional result.

Whether you’re refreshing walls or upgrading furniture, the right approach makes all the difference… so what’s your next project going to be?