When planning a new kitchen, it makes sense to focus on the obvious things. Do you want a built-in or freestanding fridge, do you want an island, do you want a pendant light or downlights? While these are fantastic - and necessary - areas to consider, after designing and building two kitchens in two renovations myself, delving a little deeper makes all the difference.
By really getting into the weeds with your lines of enquiry about how you use your kitchen, when you will use it and for what purposes, you can transform your kitchen from a standard off-the-shelf buy and fit to a bespoke, personalised space that works specifically for you.
Some of the advice below was things I realised after I installed the first kitchen and had to retroactively change, and some are things I’m yet to execute in our second, as I’m a big believer in taking your time when designing a kitchen to make sure things are right for the room.
1. Don’t just plan your lighting, measure it
On pretty much every guide you will read about planning a kitchen, kitchen lighting will be fairly high up on this list. Advice on layering and getting a mix of moods and types is extremely helpful, but I would urge you to go one further and really think about where each type will be placed, corresponding to what you will do in that area.
There is a real temptation to go absolutely nuts with downlights in the centre of the room and to chuck some wall lights up where they will fit on the walls, with a pendant over the island.
‘Lighting should follow task zones rather than a grid,’ explains Richard Davonport, founder of Davonport Kitchens. ‘Downlights are best positioned slightly forward of wall cabinetry so they illuminate the front edge of the worktop, where prep happens, rather than casting shadows from behind. Islands benefit from a combination of directional task lighting and softer pendants to prevent the centre of the room feeling overlit but the edges underlit.’
A pendant hung too low on an island will cast unhelpful shadows and get in the way of your eyeline when looking across. Measure, measure, measure to ensure you’re happy with their positions before the electrician leaves.
2. Leave more circulation space than you think
I actually wasn't sure what size of island we needed until the units were in so we used a dresser units and an old table to figure out wheat felt comfortable for the way we used the kitchen.
If you’ve got a small kitchen and you’re having to measure your open oven door in order to squeeze in an island or peninsula, this is your sign to rethink your entire kitchen layout, even if it will technically fit the recommended circulation space. There are some fantastic alternatives for a small kitchen that will work with your space, allowing for good circulation and walkways without having to squeeze.
‘Around an island, 1000–1200mm tends to be the practical sweet spot in most homes,’ agrees Richard Davonport, where often advice reduces this down to 950mm. ‘Less than that restricts appliance doors and two people passing; more than 1400mm can dilute the sense of connection and make prep and serving feel disjointed.’
3. Make unit heights work for you
I’m not the only one who dislikes wall units for a variety of reasons - they visually take up space, they often make the room feel dark and crowded, and, by far the most important, if you’re shorter than the average man, then you probably won’t be able to reach the top shelves without a stepping stool.
If you’re on the taller side, that’s fine and by all means take your units up to the ceiling and maximise storage. But for those of us who find climbing onto the worktop to reach for a mixing bowl tedious and nerve wracking - there are so many alternatives out there from countertop tambour units, pull down racks and drawers that can be stored behind baseboards.
The same is true for the height you set your base units at. ‘Ergonomics should be tailored to the primary user,’ comments Grazzie Wilson, Head of Creative at Ca’ Pietra. ‘Standard worktop heights may not suit everyone, and even a 20mm adjustment can make long prep sessions more comfortable. Positioning ovens and microwaves at mid-height, or raising dishwashers slightly, can significantly reduce bending and repetitive strain over time.’
‘Taller clients may prefer 920–940mm to reduce strain during prep, while baking stations can benefit from a slightly lower surface for kneading,’ adds Richard Davonport. ‘Tailoring heights to the main user can materially improve day-to-day comfort.’
4. Be realistic about the stuff you have in your kitchen
Sadly also the spice drawer next to my old oven really quickly filled - this time around I went for a double-sized unit to fit all of my jars and bottles.
This is a warning to all keen cooks! The first kitchen I designed, I underestimated the size of my saute pan handles, the width of my paella dish and the weight of my various cast iron pots. I wasn’t practical about what was actually going into the drawers and cupboards, just what fit the walls at the time.
‘Start by auditing everything: heavy cookware near the hob, everyday crockery close to the dishwasher, glassware near the fridge or drinks area, small appliances near sockets, linens and serving platters near the dining zone, cookbooks away from steam,’ comments Richard Davenport. ‘Grouping by function ensures cabinetry is sized correctly from the outset rather than retrofitted with inserts later.’
5. Consider the evolution of the kitchen triangle
My pantry used to be an old wardrobe that we've converted - everything I need is within reach without cluttering up my worktops.
The classic kitchen triangle examines the relationship between the hob, fridge and sink. However, if you use more small appliances, such as air fryers, boiling water taps and coffee machines, a different system may be more appropriate.
‘Secondary prep sinks, dedicated beverage stations or appliance garages can relieve pressure on the primary sink–hob–fridge route,’ says Charlotte Butler, Senior Kitchen Designer at BK Eleven. ‘Designing in zones rather than relying solely on the triangle often results in smoother movement during busy periods.’
A deeper worktop is also a great idea for those with more regularly-used small appliances. ‘As countertop appliances become permanent fixtures rather than occasional additions, standard 600mm depths can feel restrictive,’ continues Charlotte. ‘Increasing depth to 650mm or beyond allows kettles, coffee machines or air fryers to sit further back while preserving usable prep space at the front edge.’
We chose to recess our microwave within the deep pantry space and have a dedicated station for our coffee machine in the pantry, between the mugs and fridge, for ease of use.
6. Get personal from the outset
Admittedly, I still have not mastered the fine art of planning artwork, ceramics or books while designing the rest of the kitchen, but it’s a really important step that gets missed when looking at units or appliances. Maybe next kitchen…
‘If artwork, heirloom ceramics or a favourite dresser are part of your vision, allocate wall space and lighting for them early,’ says Richard Davonport. ‘Retrofitting personality once cabinetry is installed often results in crowded shelves or awkward gaps. A kitchen that feels layered is usually one that made space for those pieces from day one.'
‘Allocating niche space, glazed cabinetry or dedicated shelving prevents meaningful pieces from competing with functional storage. Without that early planning, the display tends to become improvised and visually crowded,’ agrees Charlotte Butler.
7. Don’t skimp on things you touch daily
Kitchens are insanely tactile, but these elements often get overlooked in favour of aesthetics or budget. The handles or drawer pulls, especially, are things to focus on right from the start.
‘Hardware should be integrated into the design phase once door styles and proportions are confirmed, not selected at the end when budgets are compressed,’ says Gareth Hull, Design Lead at Hendel & Hendel. ‘The length and projection of a handle must correspond to door height, especially on tall larder cabinetry, where underscaled pieces can disrupt vertical rhythm. For wide drawers, longer pulls often provide better balance and improved grip, particularly when storing heavier cookware.’
‘Finish selection should be tested under the actual lighting scheme specified for the kitchen,' he continues. ‘Brushed nickel, for example, can read warmer under softer LED temperatures, while polished finishes reflect more light and can amplify brightness. It is also important to assess how the hardware relates to tapware, hinges and appliances to avoid tonal inconsistencies between metals.
'From a practical standpoint, knurled or textured surfaces can improve usability on larger doors, and the positioning of fixing centres should be carefully planned to ensure symmetry across stacked drawers and panelled cabinetry.’
Designing a kitchen is never a straightforward process, and it's worth learning from those who have gone before or taking inspiration from how kitchen designers have designed their own kitchens.
But I promise, you'll never regret taking some extra time at the start to think through everything.