I used a paint stripper to restore my dated and mouldy windows and learned you need to do these 5 simple things to ensure a good result

Unlike uPVC or aluminium windows, timber windows need correct maintenance to protect them and keep them in good working order, but as I've discovered, the reward for intermittent hard work, is that they can last for decades, if not longer.

I live in an old damp cottage that has been neglected over the years, and we have a mixture of windows from various dates, some with leaded glass or steel frames, others with astragal bars and even one horizontal sliding sash. It’s a mish-mash at best, and they’ve all been neglected for years.

But no longer, as I decided start stripping the old (presumably lead) paint on two ground floor windows, one in a 1970s cottage-style and the other a much older, if not original, timber and steel casement, that were looking the most sorry for themselves.

While it's a pretty easy DIY project, I did want to share some lessons I learned along the way that may help if you are planning on doing something similar.

I used Home Strip Paint and Varnish Remover (£13.95 from Amazon),a gel-based paint stripper for its low VOC (voltaic organic compounds). Not only are these types of products a little friendlier to the environment, but I have asthma and am quite sensitive to chemical smells so it seemed like a sensible option.

The equipment required is pretty rudimentary, including a cloth, paint brush, cling film, scraper and heavy duty/durable bin bags. I also used gloves and glasses to protect my skin and eyes. You can read my step by step guide for exactly how I transformed the windows.

1. You should always do a test patch

As I was working with wood of varying ages and unknown layers of paint and varnishes from God knows how many decades ago, I thought it best to start with a test patch to ensure the paint stripper would work effectively and to what degree. And I was so glad I did this step, and would definitely recommend you do this step too.

For me, I didn’t want to damage the windows by doing what I usually do and jumping in feet first with no plan if things went awry.

To do this, I chose the top corner of the windows within the frame so it wouldn’t be quite as noticeable if it didn’t go well. The guidance on the label advised on different timings based on the type and thickness of paint. So, I first added a small amount of gel and waited an hour to see any progress. After nothing really happened, I put on a thicker coat and added cling film tightly around the section. I checked back in regularly and the paint seemed to be responding to the product. In the end, I left it for the night and came back in the morning. It seemed my windows needed a full 24 hours of sitting with the gel on to work properly.

I’m definitely going to keep doing this as I make my way around the house and strip the other windows as, while it might be a little annoying, it actually saved me time by knowing vaguely how much time the window would take so I didn’t have to repeat the entire process multiple times.

2. You need to apply the stripper liberally

Once I had given myself the go-ahead, I pasted on the paint stripper with gusto. The test patch indicated that, at least on the newer window, the paint was thick and needed a decent amount of encouragement to lift away.

However, I found when I returned some patches were definitely better than others and it was generally where the stripper hadn’t been applied as thickly.

For others who might be thinking of taking on this job, I would recommend using a fairly soft bristled brush that you aren't too attached to. The soft brush allowed me to get right in the corners with plenty of goop, but I found it really hard to wash it out once I was done. I will still use the brush again, but only for this product and for this type of job, rather than neat work like painting.

3. Make sure you cover it tightly

The manufacturer suggested that if you are going to leave the stripper gel to sit for more than a few hours you should cover it with cling film or a plastic wrap. It seems it works best when wet so you have to make sure it doesn’t dry out. So applying the cling film well is essential.

For the majority of the windows, I cut strips of cling film and stuck them directly on top of the gel-covered frame, but, annoyingly, I did one section by pulling a larger sheet of film from one side to the other over the pane. This section dried out and definitely didn’t work as well as the other method. As a result, I had to use more paint stripper, reapply it, and leave it for another day before I was able to finish.

4. You need to be gentle while scraping

I’m typically quite gung-ho with most things and I definitely made some mistakes while scraping off the paint stripper after the 24 hours had passed. I used a wallpaper scraper for most of the job, but found a small safety razor blade extremely useful to remove excess peeled paint that was close to the pane to get a sharp finish.

Unfortunately, my scraper did manage to take out a couple of chunks of wood while I was encouraging some more stubborn bits to come off. What I should have done is simply apply more product and be patient. And I'd definitely do this as I move on to other windows around our house.

Next time, I will use either using a proper scraper which has a sharper blade (thereby avoiding using too much pressure) or simply be more gentle with my tools and use a lighter hand..

5. Think ahead of how to dispose of the stripped paint properly

One thing I didn’t fully assess until after I had scraped off the paint — extremely satisfying by the way — was how I was going to dispose of the waste.

I had been dropping the scraps into a rubble bag placed in a bucket, which actually turned out to be very lucky, as when I was researching correct disposal, the local council actually specified that suspected lead paint needs to be placed in a heavy-duty plastic bag, tied tightly in a knot and disposed of safely at a specific section of the tip.

Lead is incredibly dangerous, not just for humans but for animals, insects and the environment so it absolutely should not be thrown in the regular waste refuse bin that goes out the front of your house.

If you're after some more easy DIY, check out the budget-friendly mid-century modern room divider I created.